Where Los Angeles, December 2011 by California Media Group

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DECEMBER 2011 WHERELA.COM

Los Angeles

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Celebrating 75 years of Where

TOURNAMENT OF ROSES TIPS JAIME PRESSLY RETURNS TO THE TUBE L.A.'S FINEST GASTROPUBS

SWEET TREATS BOUTIQUE OWNERS DISH ON THE HOTTEST GIFTS TO GIVE AND GET

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PICASSO, PABLO, Après, 1881-1973

Foulard pour le Festival Mondial de la Jeunesset des Etudiants pour la Paix (Scarf for the Global Festival of Youth and Students for Peace), 1951. Color silkscreen on linen scarf. 31 ¼ x 30 ½ inches.

Master Artists from Rembrandt to Picasso G A L E R I E

M I C H A E L

2 2 4 N o r t h R o d e o D r i v e , V i a R o d e o , B e v e r l y H i l l s , C A 9 0 210 E - M a i l : a r t @ ga le r ie m ic h a e l.com Fa x : 310. 273.0879 w w w. ga le r ie m ic h a e l.com

Te l : 310. 273. 3377

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HAPPY HOLIDAY SHOPPING DECEMBER

where Los Angeles 12.11 the guide 78 DINING Restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

100 ENTERTAINMENT Special events and performing arts

102 ATTRACTIONS + MUSEUMS Sights, parks, studio tours and exhibitions

107 SHOPPING The best in retail destinations

109 SPAS Top spots for beauty and relaxation

110 NIGHTLIFE Hottest clubs, lounges and bars

112 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around

115 MAPS Navigate the county

whereabouts

Nate Ricketts Design Christmas trees at Gum Tree in Hermosa Beach

where now

features

12 Dining Take a Bao bows in Studio City English-style eats at the Churchill Lofty ideas at the Roof on Wilshire

22 The Gift Gurus The owners of five of the most stylish, customer-friendly gift shops in L.A. offer holiday shopping tips and their slam-dunk picks for the hottest gifts.

14 Shopping Athleta works it out at the Grove From photography to Lomography 16 Music Season’s greetings from Aimee Mann The L.A. Phil’s “Hollywood Sound” 18 Entertainment Guide to the Tournament of Roses

BY SUZANNE ENNIS

74 Jumping the Pond Gastropubs have become the laboratories of the most talented young chefs, and this British concept has elicited some of L.A.’s most creative cooking. BY ROGER GRODY

40 44 48 54 58 62 68 70

Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown Pasadena The Valley South Bay

ALSO INSIDE 8 11 20 120

A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR HOT DATES Digital Darkroom Q+A Jaime Pressly 30 THINGS WE LOVE

ON THE COVER Festive cake pops from Sweet E’s Bake Shop on Robertson Boulevard. See the story on page 50. CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

wheretraveler.com Get the city buzz from Where editors worldwide online and on your smartphone. 4 WHERELA.COM

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TheGrov

J. Crew Holiday party frocks and fashions. Always smart and stylish.

American Girl Place

Barnes & Noble Nook Simple Touch and Nook Color. Check two off the list!

MAC Holiday Collection Glitter + Ice makeup bags. Viva Glam lip kits.

Fun times two: The New Bitty Baby Twins. Matching doll and me outfits.

Kiehl’s Since 1851 Anthropologie

One-stop gifts under $50: The Favorites Kit and a stocking full of lip balm, please!

Charming tea towels for the hostess and statement necklaces.

Crate & Barrel

Apple iPad 2 (on everyone’s list!) The white hot iPhone 4S.

Fondue set fun! Bold, graphic Marimekko prints and festive ornaments galore.

Barneys NY CO-OP

Splendid

Fabulous Winter Wear: leather jackets, boots & more.

The ultimate T-shirts in the softest fabrics on the planet.

Ugg Australia Cozy up with shearling boots for the whole family.

Swarovski Holiday Sparkle. Pin-up necklaces and loads of colorful charms.

Santa’s Magical Cottage. 100-foot Christmas Tree with 5,000 lights. Snowfall, twice nightly.

Nordstrom Simply Gorgeous. Designer handbags and the most handsome sport coats.

Nike Running

Lucy Zahran & Co.

Coach

Gotta move fast: Lunarglide Nike running shoes.

Gifts for everyone: jewelry, crystal, miniatures, china and silver.

We love the LLC: Little Leather Clutch. A must have.

189 The Grove Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90036 • 323.900.8080 • thegrovela.com

The Grove

@TheGroveLA

Be the first to hear about our holiday events! Text TREE to 55678. No charges. Message and data rates may apply.

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where m Ag A z ine

On the Web: WhereLA.com

publisher Jeff Levy eDiTOr iN ChieF Benjamin Epstein ArT DireCTOr Bree Berri eDiTOr

Katie McCarthy

ADVerTisiNG DireCTOr Nicole Bordges MArKeTiNG DireCTOr Audrey Nimura

OPENS DECEMBER 17

AssOCiATe ArT DireCTOr

Explore the possibilities. 17 Artists create altered realities and imagined worlds through manipulation of their photographs in this innovative exhibit.

prODuCTiON ArTisT

Heidi Schwindt

Ryan Furuya

CONTribuTiNG ArT DireCTOr

Carol Wakano

CONTribuTiNG WriTers

Sarah Rose Attman, Leah Bigelow, Suzanne Ennis, E.C. Gladstone, Roger Grody, Anne-Marie Otey, Jessica Radloff CONTribuTiNG phOTOGrAphers

Amy K. Fellows, Sarah Hadley, Bjarne G. Jensen, Monica Nouwens, Edwin Santiago, Ashok Sinha, Christopher Ian Smith, Ian White ACCOuNT MANAGers

Sara Kemp, Mali Mochow, Laura Napolitano, Heather Howard, Joanna McLean, Scott O’Hanlon, Laura Renner seNiOr CirCulATiON & speCiAl eVeNTs MANAGer

Christine Noriega

prODuCTiON MANAGer Dawn Kiko Cheng Web MANAGer Christina Xenos ADMiNisTrATiON

Jordan Fraser, Leanne Killian, Beth Moline, Sarah Trainor ViCe presiDeNT OF NATiONAl sAles Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550 WesT COAsT NATiONAl sAles Tiffany Reinhold 714.813.6600 DireCTOr OF NATiONAl DiGiTAl sAles Bridget Cody 706.821.6663 © PIERRE BETEILLE

hONOrAry presiDeNT

Ted Levy

where Los Angeles

3679 Motor Ave., suite 300 los Angeles, California 90034 phone: 310.280.2880 Fax: 310.280.2890 © CLAUDIA KUNIN

Art and technology, dreams and reality, darkroom and computer intersect in 3D, print and a larger-than-life HD presentation.

eMAil Advertising Nicole.Bordges@WhereLA.com business JLevy@WhereLA.com editorial Katie.McCarthy@WhereLA.com Art Art@WhereLA.com production Ads@WhereLA.com Website Christina.Xenos@WhereLA.com Circulation Christine.Noriega@WhereLA.com plan for your next visit to los Angeles. subscribe to where: single copy $4, 12 issues $36. Contact: Christine Noriega. phone: 310.280.2880 email: Christine.Noriega@WherelA.com © 2011 Southern California Media Group. All rights reserved. published by southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor publications.

2000 Avenue of the Stars, #10, Los Angeles, CA 90067 P: 213-403-3000 // Admission is free. annenbergspaceforphotography.org

printed in the united states Circulation audited by Audit bureau of Circulations

where los Angeles magazine is pleased to be a member of: Greater los Angeles Convention and Visitors bureau, santa Monica Area Chamber of Commerce, California restaurant Association, CalTiA, beverly hills Chamber of Commerce, los Angeles Concierge Association.

A MAGGIE AWARD-WINNING puBLICATION BEST CONSuMER VISITOR’S GuIDE

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AMERICAN FOOTWEAR

8493 Sunset Blvd (at La Cienega) West Hollywood, CA 323.650.0475 www.bootstaronline.com

PRESENT PERFECT

Around the holidays, every one of us is bombarded by magazines and newspapers telling us what to gift our family and friends. so, too, are journalists overwhelmed with pitches of suggestions for the nowubiquitous holiday gift guide. No gift ideas are zanier than the ones that have landed in my email inbox. There are reasonable ones, of course: sweaters. Designer perfumes. smartphones. Fancy spirits (“the ideal adult stocking stuffer,” aka the gift that makes any holiday gathering merrier). but they get weirder—way weirder. how about a brasscoated, gold-dipped safe for a conspicuously wealthy best friend? Or a $4,000 pen for the gifter who has run out of great ways to spend $4,000? Or maybe a fishbowl with an interior mountainscape for a nature-loving goldfish owner? OK, that one’s kind of cool. but generally, they’re the kinds of items that can cause a person to wonder where she can turn for sensible gift ideas. Well, look no further than The Gift Gurus (page 22), a new spin on the gift guide that asks more pragmatic minds—the owners of l.A.’s hottest gift boutiques—what products they and their customers can’t get enough of, and, thus, what your loved ones are most likely to love, too. What could be easier than that? because it’s still nice to have a few sages to steer you through the dizzying process of shopping for all the people on your list. unless one of those people has a goldfish. Then you’re set. —KATIE McCARTHY

eDWiN sANTiAGO

CLASSIC

A note from the editor

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LaGardo Tackett, Architectural Pottery, circa 1955, lent by the Lawrence Family in honor of Max and Rita Lawrence, photo © Museum Associates/LACMA, by Bill Stern; Charles and Ray Eames, Molded Plywood Division, Evans Products Company, DCW (dining chair wood), (silhouette), 1946–49, LACMA, Decorative Arts and Design Council Fund

Welcome

October 1, 2011–March 25, 2012

The exhibition was organized by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and funded through a lead grant from

Corporate sponsorship was provided by Additional funding was provided by the Henry Luce Foundation, Debbie and Mark Attanasio, Martha and Bruce Karsh, and LACMA’s Decorative Arts and Design Council. In-kind support provided by DuPont™ Corian®.

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LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART |LACMA.ORG 5905 WILSHIRE BLVD (AT FAIRFAX AVE)

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What’s sizzling in seconds flat

Hot Dates 12.11 Mike Pucher’s 3-d photograph Flower Portraits Vol. 1, Dahlia No. 10 (2010)

DEC. 3 JINGLE BALL Local radio station KIIS FM takes over Nokia Theatre L.A. Live downtown for its annual holiday showcase of pop and hip-hop heavy hitters. Rock out to performers Lady Gaga, David Guetta, Flo Rida, Sean Paul, Gym Class Heroes, Taio Cruz and Big Time Rush. DEC. 3–4 UNIQUE L.A. HOLIDAY SHOW At the largest independent-design show in the country, more than 250 designers and artisans tout their goods at the California Market Center. Workshops, ecolounges, cafés and bars complete the festive shopping experience. Ten percent of proceeds are donated to a local nonprofit organization. THROUGH DEC. 10 BRING IT ON—THE MUSICAL Bring It On, the 2000 teen movie about competitive cheerleading, was the inspiration for the Ahmanson Theatre’s season-opening musical, which boasts a creative team studded with Tony Awards including Jeff Whitty and Lin-Manuel Miranda. This engagement is the first stop on a national tour. THROUGH DEC. 18 IL TEATRO ALLA MODA—THEATER IN FASHION MGM Place in Beverly Hills hosts a salute to high fashion in theater. The exhibition explores the contributions of Italy’s haute couture designers to opera, dance and theater with 80 show-stopping costumes, sketches and drawings from Fendi, Missoni, Valentino and more.

OPENING DEC. 17

Picture This

In just over two years, Century City’s Annenberg Space for Photography has established itself as a force in the local arts scene, bringing together artists of international renown in a gallery with state-ofthe-art digital technology. Digital Darkroom, featuring the work of 17 artists from the United States, the United Kingdom and France, is the Annenberg’s latest all-star production. Exploring the intersection of art and technology, Digital Darkroom features fine and commercial artists including Jerry N. Uelsmann, Pierre Beteille, Maggie Taylor, Mike Pucher, Josef Astor, Chris Levine and Joel Grimes. Eighty prints are shown along with with hundreds more images on display in vivid detail in the Digital Gallery. The gallery also features a short film on image-making in the 21st century, complete with interviews and behind-the-scenes footage from select photographers. p. 104 NEARBY Cruise over to sleek shopping center Westfield Century City (p. 109), where luxury boutiques such as Michael Kors and Tiffany & Co. mix with specialty stores including 7 for All Mankind. Enjoy a selection of 120 beers on tap and reinvented pub fare at SmithHouse Tap & Grill (p. 74) or Tom Colicchio’s New American fare at Craft (p. 78).

DEC. 24 L.A. COUNTY HOLIDAY CELEBRATION The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion downtown showcases the cultures of L.A. with holiday-inspired music and dance. From tap dance to Tagalog songs, more than 20 entertainment groups share their traditions in this Emmy Award-nominated show. DEC. 29–JAN. 3 TOURNAMENT OF ROSES All eyes are on Pasadena when the Rose Parade winds through town and top college football teams face off at Rose Bowl Stadium. The celebration continues with special events including Equestfest, Bandfest and the post-parade showcase of floats. ALL MONTH ICE AT SANTA MONICA The mild seaside temperatures in Santa Monica don’t prohibit one of the season’s coolest cold-weather pastimes. Downtown Santa Monica adds an 8,000-square-foot outdoor ice-skating rink to the corner of 5th Street and Arizona Avenue—for “a little taste of winter without the bite.” For more information on these events, see p. 100. Here for THe Weekend? Go to WhereLA.com for our Weekend Roundup, where you can get the lowdown on the coolest festivals, performing arts events, dining promotions and more.

Century City may be only 176 acres, but it packs in 1,600 hotel rooms, 10 million feet of office space, and the biggest underground parking garage in the U.S., among other boasts.

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The best in dining, shopping, music and entertainment

» DininG Bao Down Asian-inspired eatery Take a Bao opens its doors on Ventura Boulevard’s “restaurant row” in Studio City. A fast-casual restaurant with a modern spin on classic Asian fare, chef Gavin Portsmouth uses traditional Asian flavors as inspiration and reinvents them to create an original and approachable array of dishes. (Westfield Century City shoppers might remember Take a Bao from its popular stand in the mall’s posh food court.) Architect Ana Henton of MASS Architecture & Design utilized elements such as concrete, wood, metal and glass in the restaurant’s space, creating a sleek, contemporary atmosphere in which to enjoy dishes including lemongrass-caramel chicken wings, duck confit with plum hoisin-smothered Muscovy duck leg, and a bành mí filled with pork loin and pâté. Cocktails, craft beers and wines round out the menu. (Pictured: pork and leek potstickers with yuzu marmalade.) 11838 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.691.7223

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eggs Benedict with crostini, confit of heirloom tomatoes and prosciutto at the Churchill on West 3rd Street

LEADING RESTAURANT The Churchill restaurant and bar, from the owners behind the Hudson in West Hollywood, opens its doors on West 3rd Street. Named for British prime minister Winston, the Churchill offers a stylish take on seasonal American cuisine, serving up an extensive list of handmade signature cocktails, 20 regional craft beers on tap and a California-centric wine menu. Executive chef Jason Tuley turns out a menu with a focus on house-made ingredients: cured meats and fish, pastas, pickled vegetables and breads. Hearty dishes include gnocchi with sheep’s milk ricotta and braised rabbit and a Niman Ranch flat-iron steak with marrow butter and duck-fat fries. A contemporary industrial dining room features reclaimed wood communal tables, polished concrete floors, iron tabletops, antiqued mirrors and a working photo booth. An indoor/outdoor experience, the dining room opens via sliding glass walls onto a garden patio with fireplace. 8384 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.650.8384

THE CHURCHILL, HOWARD WISE

Top Dining With 360-degree views spanning the L.A. skyline, The roof on Wilshire is ebullient chef Eric Greenspan’s latest creation. Known for his original eatery the Foundry on Melrose, Greenspan brings his comfort-food expertise to the new boutique property Hotel Wilshire, serving New American cuisine to diners in chic poolside cabanas. Serving up breakfast, lunch and dinner, Greenspan’s menu highlights include Belgian waffles with fruit preserves and lemon syrup, a Reu-

ben sandwich with house-cured corned beef, Swiss cheese and house-made sauerkraut, and caramelized scallops. A bar menu features innovative finger foods including “stuffed puffs” (cheese puffs with a side of cheese sauce, pesto or tapenade), duck confit arancini with apple gorgonzola, and nori nachos— crispy rice crackers tossed with tuna tartare, served with a spicy salmon roe and sweet Japanese aïoli. 6317 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.852.6002

The roof on Wilshire’s poolside cabanas

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Athleta at the Grove

» ShoppinG Get Into Gear

Arriving just in time to help us shed turkey-and-gravy weight fashionably, Athleta, the Sonoma, Calif.based lifestyle and fitness brand, has opened its first L.A. store at the Grove. Nestled among the center’s restaurants and boutiques, Athleta features a broad array of women’s athletic apparel, allowing women to run, swim, hike or do yoga in style. Some cool features of the store include complimentary in-store alterations, ensuring that your workout gear is just as perfectly fitted as your everyday togs, and several kiosks that link directly to Athleta’s website, giving customers more access to products and sizes on the spot. Call the store for details on its free fitness classes. The Grove, 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.937.0329

SNAP TO IT Ironically, as digital photography technology gets better and better, the latest trend in photography has been to emulate the flaws, vibrant colors and deep saturation of vintage photos; just look at the number of iPhone apps devoted to getting the look. Thus, the arrival of two Lomography Gallery Stores— one in West Hollywood, and a new store in downtown Santa Monica—is perfectly timed to capture the trend. Hipsters and photo enthusiasts can peruse the fashionable, inex-

pensive analog cameras such as La Sardina, a 35 millimeter in stylish graphic patterns, and brand-new LomoKino Super 35 Movie Maker, Lomography’s first movie camera. Also find films, film-processing services and an array of workshops for budding Lomographers. Get creative without commitment: Visitors can check out loaner cameras. 7998 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.301.1414; 312 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.458.6968

La Sardina Cubic camera from Lomography

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avantg

An intellectual interpretation of fashion by high-end Italian boutique brands.

9612 Brighton Way

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Beverly hills

90210

tel. 310.550.0504

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where now Los

Angeles music

Manntastic

Aimee Mann

SOUNDS GREAT The Getty Institute-initiated cultural event Pacific Standard Time: Art in L.A. 1945–1980 has brought together more than 60 Southern California cultural institutions to tell the story of the birth of the L.A. scene. The Los Angeles Philharmonic joins in with an exploration of L.A.’s contributions to film scores. The Hollywood Sound, at Walt Disney Concert Hall Dec. 8–11, features music by famed composers including Erich Wolfgang Korngold, Bernard Herrmann, Alex North, Elmer Bernstein, Jerry Goldsmith and John Williams. Their memorable scores are performed by the Phil with cellist Zuill Bailey and conducted by Thomas Wilkins. On the program are such compositions as North’s “A Streetcar Named Desire Suite,” Goldsmith’s “Planet of the Apes: The Hunt” and “Chinatown Suite,” Herrmann’s “North by Northwest Overture” and Williams’ “Close Encounters of the Third Kind Suite.” p. 100

Singer-songwriter Aimee Mann is better known for her melancholy tunes, but she’s filled with (partial) cheer at least once a year. Her sixth annual Aimee Mann Christmas Show is a variety show with a crack supporting cast of musicians, comedians and other special guests that stops at the Wiltern on Dec. 10. Past guests have included John C. Reilly, Jeff Goldblum, John Krasinski, Zooey Deschanel and Will Ferrell. Michael Penn, Paul F. Thompkins, Tim Heidecker, Nellie McKay and Andy Daly are just some of the guests booked for this year’s yuletide extravaganza. Mann performs a variety of songs from her repertoire, including the new tune “Charmer” from her forthcoming album, but is sure to pull material from her untraditional 2006 Christmas album, One More Drifter in the Snow. p. 102

Conductor Thomas Wilkins leads the L.A. Philharmonic

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3617 Exposition Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90016 9646 Brighton Way

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Beverly Hills

P 310 859 1131

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Angeles

ENTERTAINMENT

How-To Guide: Tournament of Roses The 123-year-old Tournament of Roses, which comprises the Rose Parade (Jan. 2, 8 am) and the Rose Bowl football game (Jan. 2, 1:30 pm), isn’t just an opportunity to broadcast evidence of our awesome winter weather and flourishing flora to the world. These Pasadena festivities are some of L.A. County’s most popular annual events; they shouldn’t be missed. However, know that up to 1 million of your closest friends will descend upon Pasadena at the same time—so, plan accordingly, using this cheat sheet to make your Tournament-going experience a cinch. GETTING THERE The Metro, MTA and Big

SCORING A SPOT Purchasing grandstand

Blue Bus are the public transportation venues that will save you from going batty in the heinous traffic to and from the events. The superefficient Metro Gold Line light rail (see map on page 119) goes through Pasadena, as do MTA buses. From the Santa Monica area, try the ecofriendly Big Blue Bus. Driving? Be warned: In addition to traffic, there are many street closures to contend with. However, the official ticket vendor of the events, Sharp Seating Co., also offers parking passes, $30, for lots along the parade route. Taking a cab, like driving, is a risky move. If you have to cab it, L.A. Yellow Cab is a reliable option. You can book via text message by simply sending your location to 571.309.5358. For the game, there is limited stacked parking at Rose Bowl Stadium, but departure is time-consuming. Make a quicker exit by paying $30–$35 to park at Parsons Corp. and take the free Vizio shuttle. The shuttle runs continuously from 10 am until two hours after the end of the game.

tickets is the only way to guarantee yourself a spot on the sidelines. The best seats are at Orange Grove and Colorado boulevards, where TV crews line up to capture the floats’ spinning and gyrating mechanized parts and marching bands showing off complex formations. Want to take your chances with curbside viewing? A few hints: Spots are first-come, first-served, and can be staked out as early as noon the day before the parade. Bring pillows and blankets if you plan to sleep overnight; tents are not permitted. Side streets don’t close until shortly before the parade, so if you’re feeling lucky, you can try snagging a spot the morning of the event; go no later than 5 am. Call the Pasadena Police Department for regulations on curbside viewing. OTHER EVENTS There’s a lot of action leading up to the parade and the game as well as afterward. Dec. 29–31, numerous float teams apply natural materials, seeds and fresh rose blooms to the floats. If you want in on the

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returning next year, book a room before you leave your hotel. After all, it’s never too early to initiate preparations for the year’s biggest blowout. DETAILS Big Blue Bus 310.451.5444, bigbluebus.com Fiesta Parade Floats 626.610.0974, fiestaparadefloats.com L.A. Yellow Cab 877.733.3305, layellowcab.com Los Angeles Equestrian Center 480 Riverside Drive, Burbank MTA 323.466.3876, metro.net Parsons Corp. 100 W. Walnut St., 626.440.2844 Pasadena City College 1570 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.585.7123 Pasadena Police Department 626.744.4598 Sharp Seating Co. 626.795.4171, sharpseating.com Victory Park 2575 Paloma St., Pasadena, 626.744.7500

POST-PARADE FLOAT VIEWING

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AFTER THE TOURNAMENT If you plan on

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action, call float-building companies such as Fiesta Parade Floats to sign up. Equestfest, Dec. 30 at Burbank’s Los Angeles Equestrian Center, allows you to meet the parade’s four-legged stars, tour their stables and watch horses and riders perform drills and dances. Pasadena City College hosts Bandfest, Dec. 30–31, featuring performances by the parade’s top-notch marching bands. If you don’t catch the parade, you can still see the main attractions before they wilt. Post-parade float viewing goes Jan. 2–3 on the streets adjacent to Victory Park. Floats wind up on Sierra Madre Boulevard and Washington Street.

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where now Los

Angeles You came west from North Carolina to model. What’s your earliest memory of L.A.? I remember going into the place that used to be called Bar One, right across Sunset Boulevard from where BOA is now, and I had my Aunt Cissy with me from North Carolina, and the first thing I see is Billy Idol! And he was completely gone out of his mind, bloodshot eyes, white hair. I was very naïve at the time. I remember thinking, “He must be really tired!” What part of town do you live in now? I live in the Valley, Sherman Oaks. It’s more family-oriented. All the parents know each other and the kids play together. We have the neighborhood house.

» Q+A STAR TURN

When F. Scott Fitzgerald declared “There are no second acts in American lives,” he had obviously never met anyone like Jaime Pressly, a woman with a remarkable capacity for reinventing herself while staying thoroughly authentic. Pressly is best known for her remarkable run as a slapstick siren on TV’s My Name Is Earl, but the former teen model shows quite another side on her new show I Hate My Teenage Daughter, in which she plays a more mature, conservative mom. It’s hard to say whether life imitates art or vice versa, but these days, Pressly, 34, also embraces motherhood with her 4-year-old son, Dezi, and slows down to enjoy the simple pleasures of suburban Los Angeles. —E.C. Gladstone

Where do you like to go there? Crave is one of my favorite places to eat. The food is yummy and healthy—I like that you can sit outside. The owner, Abe, is the nicest guy ever…. Rocco’s is a great sports bar. Umami Burger in Studio City. And I love the neighborhood Whole Foods—everybody knows each other. Nothing here is going to be like back home, but at least it feels homey. Everything is within walking distance or a five-minute drive. And there’s no paparazzi. Any shopping suggestions? Westfield Topanga mall. They have the greatest children’s area.... You can get lunch when it’s too hot for the park. Although there are a lot of nice parks in the Valley. Well, Balboa Park needs to be spoken of. Aside from the fact it has great golf courses, one of the playground areas cost like $3 million, there’s the little lake, you can do the paddle boats, and you can fish, there’s tons of birds. That’s my favorite park, for sure.

Do you fish, Jaime? Yeah, I grew up on a boat in North Carolina, the real Dawson’s Creek. So I grew up fishing. I do it when I go home. Where do you like to take friends when they visit L.A.? I think our restaurants are so much better than they used to be, and I think there’s a better nightlife now than there used to be. Of course I’m older now, and I couldn’t care less to go to a club. The Hollywood Bowl is one of the most amazing experiences anybody could have—going to see Adele, being able to bring your own wine and cheese and sit with friends. And the Ford Amphitheatre, that’s cool. It sounds like you have totally shifted into “mommy” mode. Gladly. I’m 34 now. Different things become important when you’re a parent. I go out once in a while and when I do, I really enjoy myself. Whereas if you go out all the time, it’s the same people every night, same crowd. But I am going to see the Black Keys in Chinatown tonight! Details Anthony C. Beilenson Park (Balboa Park) 6300 Balboa Blvd., Van Nuys, 818.756.9743 Crave Cafe 14504 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.990.7888 Ford Amphitheatre 2580 Cahuenga Blvd. E., Hollywood, 323.461.3673 Hollywood Bowl 2301 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.850.2000 Rocco’s Tavern 12514 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.985.9876 Umami Burger 12159 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.985.9876 Westfield Topanga Canyon 2200 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.594.8740 Whole Foods Market 12905 Riverside Drive, Sherman Oaks, 818.762.5548

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The

GIFT GURUS The style-setters behind L.A.’s hottest gift shops share their picks and tips for the season. by suzanne ennis With the onset of merriment turning our attention to giving and getting this season, we quizzed the owners of five of the most stylish, customer-friendly and carefully considered gift shops across L.A. about their hot picks for the holidays. After all, thanks to finely tuned personal styles and influential tastes, these retail doyens are experts not only at fulfilling our shopping lists—they also help to shape them in the first place. Meet L.A.’s resident tastemakers, at the ready to help you pick (and wrap, and ship) the presents that will make your friends and family swoon.

A+R / VENICE

earch “Rose Apodaca” online, and you’ll turn up image after image of a crimson-lipped, sleek-haired fashion goddess who looks every part the renowned pop-culture and style journalist she is. So it’s little wonder that A+R—the design emporium she and her husband, former film editor Andy Griffith, preside over on Abbot Kinney Boulevard—oozes aesthetic divinity. The shop’s a go-to source for modern design junkies far and wide, but does hew to old fashions in two respects: its exemplary customer service and its friendly, neighborhood feel.

CReDO: Apodaca: “We … believe that design is to be lived with and not treated like a museum piece.” saGe aDViCe: “Go with your gut. Too often, customers drive themselves nuts in indecision, when inevitably they return to their first best choice.” PROJeCTeD HiTs: “We just introduced the John’s Phone [$100 and up] to North America, and it’s already selling out. It’s a simple phone—no texting, no emailing, no silly ringtones. Nothing but a phone with a three-week charge that can be used worldwide. And it looks cool. So do the Urbanista headphones [$99].“

FOR sTOCKinG sTuFFeRs: “Gold Playing Cards [$15]—yes, they are completely finished in shiny gold! LED Bicycle Lights by Bookman [$29] are slim, easy to use anywhere; Card Speaker [$29], [an] MP3 player speaker the size of a credit card; POP! Retro handset [$36–$60] plugs into any MP3 player or computer for VOIP calls.” FOR TOTs: “PlayShapes blocks [$158] made sustainably from rubberwood; any David Weeks wooden creature or ‘cu-bot robot’ [$25 and up]; art packs by Karen Kimmel [$25 for the mini set, or $68 and up].”

OPPOSITE: RAMONA ROSALES

ANDY GRIFFITH AND ROSE APODACA

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Opposite, clockwise from far left: Stelton Pure Black Knives, John’s Phone, Urbanista headphones, Uniform Wares London watch and wine cork pourer from Cork Wine/Bar set by Normann Copenhagen, available at A+R in Venice. This page: Rose Apodaca and Andy Griffith, owners of A+R.

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Opposite: Marci Toombs, owner of Lula Mae in Pasadena. This page, clockwise from left: Compendium journal, Accoutrements Bacon Toothpaste, Voluspa Macaron Candle and Seda France French Tulip Candle from Lula Mae.

FOR A HOST: “The best hostess gifts are well-designed, useful and should cost about as much as a decent bottle of wine, so we recommend the Cork Wine/Bar Set by Normann Copenhagen [$29]; a roll of perforated cotton napkins by MyDrap [$28]; chilling soapstones for cocktails by Teroforma [$24]; acacia wood cocktail/ tapas forks from Sagaform [$10].”

OPPOSITE: MIEKE KRAMER

FOR HIM OR HER: “Maison Martin Margiela magnifying glass [$78] (we have the left or right), or also from MMM, a supersize snowglobe [$180]; unisex watches by Uniform Wares London [$160 and up]; set of Pure Black Knives by Stelton [$360].” WISH LISTS: Griffith: “Custom selvage jeans from Stronghold up the street, and from A+R, ceramic speakers from Joey Roth [$495].” Apodaca: “Annual membership for MOCA and from A+R, a Cast of Vices leather Corner Store Bag [$178].” GAME PLAN: “We shop our store since we stock what we love, and we shop independent bookstores such as Alias [and] Skylight.”

WHY HOME RULES FOR THE HOLIDAYS: “We can walk the beach, some years without even a sweater!”

are appreciated and noticed. It also helps the shopping experience move a little quicker, and with less stress! “

MARCI TOOMBS

PROJECTED HITS: “Interactive journals by Compendium [$9.95] for mom, dad, grandma or grandpa. These journals are filled with questions for the recipient to fill out and tell you all about their wishes, dreams, past and hopes for future.”

LULA MAE / PASADENA

ula Mae in Old Pasadena is the namesake of owner Marci Toombs’ great-great grandmother, a shotgun-toting spitfire who kept house and raised a gaggle of young’uns in high heels and lipstick. The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree: Over the past eight years, the tattoo-sporting and vintage-rocking Toombs has nurtured her unapologetically nostalgic but never fusty shop into an L.A. favorite by infusing it with her unbridled enthusiasm and sass. CREDO: “We think simple, simple, but we always end up overdoing it. More is more.” SAGE ADVICE: “Make a list of your recipients. List out a few special things you know and love about them before shopping. This is a wonderful way to ensure you find the perfect gift that makes them know just how much they

FOR STOCKING STUFFERS: “Make it fun and make sure to wrap each item! Lula Mae’s top sellers are humor-related, everything from Bacon Toothpaste from Accoutrements [$5], or a two-pack of Cat Butts Gum from Blue Q [$2.50].... and it’s the person you’d least expect, like my mother, who thinks its just amazing stuff.” FOR TOTS: “Hand-knit baby booties from Best of Chums [$24] based out of Alhambra in the whimsical shape of an owl, robot or even an octopus to decorate and keep babies’ toes cozy. Baby T-shirts from Rudechix [$18] in L.A. that are not only adorable but have fun little catchphrases on them.... Interactive cards from

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From left: Dansk pepper grinder and cheese board and books from OK on West 3rd Street and in Silver Lake. Below: OK owner Larry Schaffer.

Eeboo [$12] that allow little ones to write their own story or even learn French.” FOR A HOST: “For the perfect hostess gift, we recommend a candle by Voluspa or Seda France…. Also, a memorable décor item by Bethany Lowe Designs is a great way to thank your hostess and allows them to carry the memory for years to come.“ FOR HIM OR HER: “As far as we’re concerned, men want the bacon lip balm. They don’t want the hand-knit sweater. For her, I’d recommend the mini bunting necklace by BunniesinLA [$48], which perfectly combines femininity with a splash of edge, and is made with a 14k gold-fill chain and sterling silver.... I actually have one on!”

WISH LIST: “I wish for a man! There’s not a price on that. And I have a particular one in mind. Dear Santa, please send him my way! Also, I would kill for a patchwork black leather handmade handbag from Gold Bug, and I’m not saying that just because they’re my neighbor.” GAME PLAN: “Lula Mae is my baby, so I will be shopping here for everyone on my list as well as for décor…. My mom is getting a special bracelet made by BunniesinLA. Oh goodness, let’s hope she does not read this before Santa comes.“ WHY HOME RULES FOR THE HOLIDAYS: “The holiday events, promotions and neighborhood appeal are unmatched. I just love it here. Pasadena has every-

thing a big city has to offer, and somehow it always has a small-town feel.”

LARRY SCHAFFER OK / SILVER LAKE AND WEST 3RD STREET

hether he’s shopping in Berlin or jetting to New York for an art-book fair, OK owner Larry Schaffer seems on a perpetual hunt for what he calls “goods that have a kind of permanence”—items that will last for a lifetime. While there’s a cool, midcentury-modern-inflected sophistication underlying the housewares, books, jewelry and decorative pieces he brings back as his quarry—a reflection, perhaps, of Schaffer’s background in high-end cutting-edge design and vintage—all you need is an appreciation of quality, utility and beauty to fall for the often-handmade, always-inspired selection.

SAGE ADVICE: “Start with what you respond to. Then think about what you have in common with the person you want to buy a gift for. It’s that area of common ground that makes the perfect gift, that thing that will be appreciated by the other person but represents the bond between you.” PROJECTED HITS: “Things are functional and have great perceived value. At the end of the day, if you spend $50. you don’t want it to appear that you spent $25. If that $50 gift can give the

SCHAFFER, MOET HASHIMOTO

CREDO: “Very simply, OK is all about making good things accessible.”

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From left: Waterford Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir set, Kwiat diamond hoops and custom-blended perfumed candles from Gearys in Beverly Hills. Below: Gearys owner Thomas Blumenthal.

appearance of having spent $100, so much the better.” FOR STOCKING STUFFERS: “Small but functional.... Nail clippers from Japan [$18]. Rubis tweezers from Switzerland [$40]. Both useful and far higher quality than what one probably has on hand. Tech for flashlights has improved dramatically in the last few years.... We like Fenix brand [$27.50 and up], small, powerful and waterproof.” FOR TOTS: “Books! Nazraeli and Twin Palms are both independent art/photo book publishers. Cloth-bound, beautifully printed. Coracle books in Ireland does beautiful small-run artist books that are small precious objects.” FOR A HOST: “Something functional and use for the house: candleholder, cheese implements, corkscrews. Eva Zeisel, 106 years old and still working, made some beautiful new candle holders a couple of years ago. Dansk, at long last, has dug into their archives to reproduce some of their beautiful functional wares. We have pepper grinders [$40], cheese boards [$50] and salad bowls [$100].” FOR HIM OR HER: “For her, jewelry. Tej Kothari produces many extremely simple, beautiful 18k earrings in India. We carry lots of jewelry from New Yorkbased Melissa Joy Manning, who produces in California. For him, unusual books, either vintage or from small presses.”

WISH LIST: “What do I covet? The best men’s clothing store in Los Angeles is right next door [on West 3rd], Douglas Fir. Run by the legendary Jon Noble. Anything from there.” GAME PLAN: “Since my shop has such a great reputation for gifts, I put a lot of pressure on myself to try to gift the perfect thing every time. To me the most special things are made by someone. Pottery, glass, or books from small producers.... The great thing about something handmade: There is only one of each one.” WHY HOME RULES FOR THE HOLIDAYS: “Are you kidding? The weather! Will still be riding my bike almost every day in December. Also, the diversity of Los Angeles, since almost no one is from here.”

THOMAS BLUMENTHAL

china, silver, timepieces, jewelry and crystal to Los Angeles’ elite. CREDO: “We combine luxury service and an unparalleled selection of the most sought-after brands to deliver a shopping experience that is a welcome respite from the chaos that is the mall. “ SAGE ADVICE: “Come see us! Finding just the right gift for everyone on your list should be fun—so if you hit a roadblock, my advice is, get some help.” PROJECTED HITS: “I see gifts centered on the home being hot. We have an amazing wine-tasting set from Waterford’s Robert Mondavi collection that people are going to love [$100].” FOR STOCKING STUFFERS: “Every year we mark the start of the holiday season by putting up a towering ornament-filled tree in the center of our

GEARYS BEVERLY HILLS / BEVERLY HILLS

homas Blumenthal began working at Gearys Beverly Hills as a teenager under the tutelage of his grandparents. Today, as the third generation in his family to own and operate the luxury retailer, this widely admired and eminently elegant Beverly Hills resident, former chairman of the Beverly Hills Chamber of Commerce and former president of the Rodeo Drive Committee knows a thing or two about pleasing people with discerning taste. Under his watch, Gearys continues to be the ultimate purveyor of luxury

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From left: Vilac France guitar, Skinny Dips by Diane Morgan, My Father’s Daughter by Gwyneth Paltrow and reusable bag by Envirosax, available at Gum Tree in Hermosa Beach. Below: Gum Tree owners Will and Lori Ford with daughter Lily.

store. I think ornaments make a great stocking stuffer. They are a fun way to express your style.” FOR TOTS: “Dated holiday ornaments [$20 and up] make a thoughtful gift for the little ones. They’re the perfect way to celebrate baby’s first holiday, plus they are a great way to start a collection that can mark the years and grow with time.” FOR A HOST: “A thoughtful hostess deserves a thoughtful gift, and sometimes a nice bottle of wine just isn’t enough. One of our custom-blended perfumed candles [$85] makes a great option as a hostess gift. Each candle is hand-poured and presented in a lidded Limoges porcelain jar.”

FOR HIM OR HER: “For … him, I would have to recommend a luxury watch. More than just an expression of personal style, a world-class timepiece such as an iconic Rolex or a classic Patek Philippe can become a treasured heirloom. For [her] … a pair of incredible diamond earrings from Kwiat or a one-of-a-kind design from Seaman Schepps.”

approach to shopping. With nieces, nephews and godchildren on my list, I start with a call to see what everyone is dying for this year, then I visit Tom’s Toys, which is conveniently located just up the street. When the kids are crossed off my list, I make my way around the city until I have something for everyone.”

WISH LIST: “This holiday season I’m really looking forward to spending time with family and friends. As a retailer, the holiday season is an especially hectic time, so getting the opportunity to relax and reconnect with family and friends is the best gift.”

WHY HOME RULES FOR THE HOLIDAYS: “Beverly Hills really gets in the holiday spirit. The city decorates the streets with holiday banners and lights—it is really something to see. Merchants get in the spirit, too, adding holiday decorations to their storefronts. But Rodeo Drive really takes holiday spirit to the next level, annually hosting a holiday celebration that includes sleigh rides on real snow.”

GAME PLAN: “With time in short supply, I take a divide-and-conquer

LORI FORD GUM TREE / HERMOSA BEACH

FORD FAMILY, BRIAN KINGSTON

outh Bay-born Lori Ford worked in costume design and fashion before returning to her roots, husband and baby girl in tow, to open the beachy-chic boutique Gum Tree in a Craftsman-style bungalow on Pier Avenue. Three years and one newborn son later, the store—and adjacent Australian-inspired cafe, run by Lori’s restaurateur husband, Will, a native Aussie—are thriving, thanks to an adoring throng of customers. The Fords also give back with community fundraisers such as photo ops with Santa on the shop’s patio during December.

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SAN-11

H O L I D AY S A T S A N T A M O N I C A P L A C E

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PHOTOS WITH SANTA THROUGH DECEMBER 24

Visit Santa in The Market daily to share holiday wishes.

BrEAkFAST WITH SANTA DECEMBER 3 & DECEMBER 10

Children will treasure this magical moment with Santa.

PET PHOTOS WITH SANTA DECEMBER 8 Strike a pose with your furry friends.

STOrY TIME WITH MrS. CLAUS DECEMBER 17 Join us for cookies, milk and seasonal stories.

GIFT YOUr SCHOOLS THROUGH DECEMBER 31

Show receipts at Concierge and give 5% back to the Santa Monica/Malibu School Foundation and area schools.

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Seashell Christmas trees by Nate Ricketts Design

CREDO: “My criteria for buying something that goes in the shop is simply, ‘Do I want this, or do I want to give this as a gift?’ If so, then I order it!”

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SAGE ADVICE: “I would say, trust your instincts. Would you want to receive this gift? Then, chances are, so will your family or friends.”

Original Works of Native American Indian Jewelry and Art

PROJECTED HITS: “Because we’re at the beach, we always sell tons of seashellcovered Christmas trees by local artist Nate Ricketts [$62 and up]. This year he has come out with a seaglass-covered tree that is amazing!” FOR STOCKING STUFFERS: “We’ve got everything from Seed Bombs [$9], little balls of dirt and seeds that come with a slingshot for a fun way to plant a garden, to Envirosax nylon grocery bags [$10.25].... No one needs any more cheap plastic junk!” FOR TOTS: “Kid-size guitars from Vilac France [$42] are irresistible. We have a Union Jack for the little rocker boy, and a beautiful girly one with a Nathalie Lete bird illustration. Soft cotton Bla Bla dolls are always a hit for baby gifts, starting at $39.”

Visitors from around the world seek out Taos Indian Trading Co. for unique, quality jewelry, pottery, sculptures, paintings and a variety of other artifacts representing 57 tribes.

Mon-Sat 11am-7pm Sun 12pm-5pm

310.395.3652

403 Santa Monica Blvd. TaosIndianTrading.com

FOR A HOST: “Fruitwood cheese boards from Roost [$39] are always a favorite. I think cookbooks are always a wonderful gift, and I stock many, from Skinny Dips to Gwyneth Paltrow’s My Father’s Daughter.” FOR HIM OR HER: “Hands-down the best special gift for her would be our Chan Luu

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Macyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Anthropologie, Coach, H&M, Urban Outfitters, XXI Forever, and more. Located west of the 405 freeway and on Hawthorne Blvd. 310.542.8525

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Photos Calixte Moisan

where bh-117,47x123,86mm:Mise en page 1 02/11/11 10:06 Page2

Chan Luu scarves available at Gum Tree

cashmere/silk scarves [$179]. Whenever we sell one the customer always comes back for another color.... For him ... I love the Tokens & Icons line, which uses sports memorabilia in a cool way. We sell lots of bottle openers [$92] made from game-used MLB baseball bats. You can pick his favorite team!” WisH LisT: “I’m obsessed with the Laguiole steak knives [set of six, $76]. And I’m dying to pick a new handcrafted leather bracelet from Renee Garvey. Otherwise, I’m hoping for a trip to Australia some time next year to take the kids to visit the in-laws!”

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GaMe PLan: “My husband is getting the new Sriracha cookbook that I ordered for the shop! I always buy jewelry with my mom and girlfriends in mind. And if I don’t have it here at Gum Tree, I like to walk around downtown Hermosa to find unique bits and pieces and to support other mom-and-pop shops like us. Curious is a favorite for irreverent stocking stuffers.” WHY HOMe RuLes FOR THe HOLiDaYs: “Hermosa gets into the spirit with lights wrapped around all the new palm trees down Pier Avenue.... I love the goodwill our customers feel when the parking meters are free for the two weeks before Christmas! And the new Snowfest event sponsored by Spyder Surf is incredible. They blow tons of snow onto the Pier Avenue hill and let talented snowboarders show their stuff for the entertainment of all the local kids.”

WHERE TO SHOP A+R 1121 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 800.913.0071 Gearys 351 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills; 365 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills. 310.273.4741 Gum Tree 238 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.376.8744 Lula Mae 100 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.304.9996 OK 8303 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.653.3501; 1716 Silverlake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.666.1868

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OutdOOr ICE SkatIng In DownTown SanTa MonIca November 11–January 16 5th St. & Arizona Ave. Mon—Thu: 2PM—10PM | Sat: 10AM—Midnight Fri: 2PM—Midnight | Sun: 10AM—10PM *Holiday hours may vary. Admission and skate rental: $12

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Mention this ad at the Santa Monica Place Concierge Desk (level 1) to receive your complimentary Visitors Rewards Books for Santa Monica Place and Downtown Santa Monica—filled with over $1,000 in special savings and offers at participating stores and restaurants!

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JOIN US

Annual MAIN STREET HOLIDAY PARTY Extravaganza Saturday, December 3rd TREE LIGHTING • CAROLING • CANDLELIGHT WALK • PARTIES

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MONKIE 2665 main st. 310.450.4512 monkieboutique.com

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Shoppingcart tree artist Anthony Schmitt is now scheduling appointments for your creative/interior needs & design services for consultation email anthony@anthonyschmittdesigns.com.

A well-edited offering of beautiful and hard-to-find clothing, shoes and accessories for women.

Santa Monica’s finest neighborhood Italian restaurant since 1990. Offering outstanding cuisine, great wine, full bar and warm hospitality. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

A world away from the ordinary, a block away from the beach

O’BRIEN’S IRISH PUB 2941 main st. 310.396.4725 obrienspub.com

MINDFULNEST 2711 main st. 310.452.5409 mindfulnest.net

BASEMENT TAVERN 2640 main st. 818.648.8391 thevictorian.com

This cozy neighborhood pub has been around since 1995, proudly serving a great range of brews, whiskeys and spirits as well as fine Irish and American cuisine. Live music nightly!

Adornments for your home, body and soul, featuring over 100 artists who create cards, jewelry, metal, mixed media, paintings, pottery, prints, and body-products.

The Victorian, frequently used as a wedding/events venue, has a hidden “speak-easy” style bar called Basement Tavern at the Victorian.

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Nude on a Red Background, 1927, Fernand Léger. Oil on canvas. Courtesy of the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden, Smithsonian Insitution, Washington D.C. Gift of Joseph H. Hirshhorn Foundation, 1972. Photography by Lee Stalsworth. © 2011 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/ADAGP, Paris

Four renowned artists. One classical inspiration. discover how these avant-garde artists reimagined the ancient past in a classically-inspired setting.

Modern AntIquIty at the Getty Villa noV. 2, 2011–JAn. 16, 2012

1 2:38 PM

This exhibition is supported by an indemnity from the Federal Council on the Arts and the Humanities.

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where abouts The City of Angels is the most vibrant city in the Western Hemisphere and one of its most diverse. The area generally referred to as L.A. is actually made up of numerous cities and neighborhoods. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s our guide to the most visited among them.

CITY INDEX

IAN WHITE

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BEVERLY HILLS SANTA MONICA WEST HOLLYWOOD HOLLYWOOD DOWNTOWN PASADENA THE VALLEY SOUTH BAY MAPS

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exploring

Beverly Hills

From left: Rush Street bar and Kirk Douglas Theatre, both in Culver City; Two Rodeo in Beverly Hills

Beverly Hills is a luxury lover’s mecca: designer shopping, fine dining, mansions. Century City, Westwood and Culver City are pockets with their own draws.

Few neighborhoods match Beverly Hills’ grip on the popular imagination, thanks to a history studded with more celebrity and excess than an Aaron Spelling TV series. Today, luxury juggernauts lure well-heeled shoppers to Rodeo Drive, while the mansions of famous locals past and present draw busloads of lookyloos. Nearby cities and neighborhoods stake their own claims to L.A.’s affections, including skyscraper-speckled Century City, known for business and high-end shopping; Westwood, home to UCLA; and Culver City, an emerging dining and cultural destination steeped in entertainment industry history.

THE MANSIONS

The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the new Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more economically diverse than Tinseltown might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts its share of famous residents, including the Cruises and the Beckhams. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour or book ahead with Starline Tours to see notable homes in the ‘hood, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s nearly six square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English revival-style Greystone Mansion & Park, whose graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE

From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the

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new in town

Chanel on Rodeo Drive

Bouchon Bakery

Thomas Keller’s bistro opens a boulangerie with coffee drinks and sweet treats. (Try the to-die-for kouign-amann.) 235 n. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910

José Eber

The celebrity stylist moves his flagship salon to a glam two-story space. 360 n. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.858.4000

Pretty Ballerinas

An array of ballerina flats and pumps in every shape and color fill this tiny jewel of a boutique. 371 n. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.2424

£10

OPPOSITE: RUSH STREET AND KIRK DOUGLAS THEATRE, EDWIN SANTIAGO; TWO RODEO, BJARNE G. JENSEN. THIS PAGE: IAN WHITE

The whiskys of The Macallan are served with ceremony in a dedicated bar at the Montage Beverly Hills. 225 n. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.5808

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shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Cañon Drive. Tom Ford, Lanvin and Badgley Mischka each recently opened flagships on Rodeo, reminding retailers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the states. Ascend the Italianesque side street to Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you’ll hit the Beverly Hilton Hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS

Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris, Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just three of the entertainment business powerhouses based here. Witness fierce negotiations and wooing over Cobb salads at The Grill on the Alley on Dayton Way and Spago on Cañon. The city’s cultural treasure-troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. Promising even more cultural programming is the forthcoming Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which is transforming the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

CENTURY CITY

Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you’ll enter the 0.3-square-mile modern acropolis of Century City. International Creative Management and

Creative Artists Association are located here, as is a Fox Studio lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Just past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, with luxury boutiques and dining venues to rival those of Beverly Hills. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, Top Chef judge Tom Colicchio draws epicures to his acclaimed restaurant Craft and lower-priced Craftbar. Steps away, The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA

A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country. Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum of Cultural History and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden in the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the seven-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens (100 Stein Plaza Driveway). The Hammer Museum is nearby and houses works by Degas and Rembrandt as well as contemporary works and installations. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

WESTWOOD VILLAGE

Just south of the campus, the pedestrianfriendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafes among its art deco and Mediterranean Revival buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at the intersection of Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin Theater and the Village Theater across the street. The tower-topped Village Theater (built circa 1931) is a favorite for movie premieres and thus prime star-spotting

territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on LeConte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

CULVER CITY

Covering five square miles about four miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City has benefited from a polish in the past few years, and now boasts a thriving downtown. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage excellent live productions throughout the year. Traveling east on Washington, don’t miss the sprawling Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms, including Room & Board and H.D. Buttercup. Moving along, the hip and scene-y Arts District has one of the highest concentration of art galleries and exhibition spaces in L.A.; more than 30 are clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards including hot spot Corey Helford Gallery and district pioneer Blum & Poe. Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City that claims the official motto “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios, today Sony Pictures Studios, opened at 10202 W. Washington Blvd. Classics including The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on the lots of the pioneering movie studio. The stately Thomas H. Ince Studio opened in 1918. Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, with the ABC series Cougar Town among the productions filming at Culver Studios, and the Spider-Man franchise among the hits produced on the historic lots at Sony. Fully experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking a studio tour at Sony. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 116–117.

great find

ALL THAT GLITTERS Helen Ficalora’s eponymous jewelry boutique holds its own among the glitz and glamour of Beverly Hills. Inspired by the rhythms and harmony found in the natural world, Ficalora began her venture into jewelry designing more than 10 years ago. Ficalora’s work—handcrafted, cast in precious metals and emanating elegance—is on display at her only California boutique. Stones shimmer in floral castings, thin rose gold bracelets put a new spin on the classic bangle and the traditional signet ring features an organic twist. Ficalora’s gold and silver Initial pendants make great gifts for teens, or for new moms, who love to wear their babies’ initials. 9632 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.777.0098, helenficalora.com

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exploring

Santa Monica

From left: Parker Mesa Overlook in Pacific Palisades; the Venice canals; Pacific Park at Santa Monica Pier

In the 1800s, a real estate agent called Santa Monica “the Santa Monica has Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century version of the approachable vibe of a beach town Santa Monica fulfills its early promise with a bustling downtown and beach that draw millions of visitors per year. By the shore with the benefits are athletic activities and the West Coast’s most famous pier; of a major city— on dry land are shops that suit a variety of tastes and hundreds nightlife, dining, of dining options. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with entertainment and destinations such as Malibu, Topanga and Brentwood. shopping galore. Malibu, Venice tHIRD STREET + THE PIER Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and and Brentwood Wilshire Boulevard, is perpetually teeming with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at three cinemas or gawk at the myriad street artists. are appealing If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along 3rd, visitors can venture to the surrounding options nearby. blocks to Ivy at the Shore or the Misfit, and enjoy drinks at Pourtal or the many pubs such as Ye Olde King’s Head that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of English expats. Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 50 boutiques and a top-level Dining Deck with a food court, upscale restaurants and a gourmet marketplace. East on Broadway is the legendary Fred Segal, an emporium of high-end shops on each side of 5th Street. Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a miniamusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

MORE HOT BLOCKS

Northeast of Third Street Promenade, the stretch of tree-lined Montana Avenue between 6th and 17th streets is busy, but still pleasant. Its boutiques including Anat B., Aura, Roseark and LF are of a more independent variety than those lining the promenade. Father’s Office, known

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Robert Irwin’s Central Garden at the Getty Center in Brentwood

new in town Hip’tique

Midpriced clothing, accessories, home décor and gifts of the beachy-chic variety. 2727 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.6106

OPPOSITE AND THIS PAGE: IAN WHITE

Lanvin

A petite boutique focuses on Alber elbaz’s swim and resortwear collections. Malibu Village, 3826 Cross Creek road, Malibu, 310.456.6808

Larry’s

Waterloo & City’s acclaimed chef Brendan Collins showcases his considerable chops at this casual beachside eatery. 24 Windward Ave., Venice, 310.399.2700

Wurstküche

Downtown’s ever-popular beer-and-sausage bar moves west. 625 lincoln Blvd., Venice, 213.687.4444

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for its stellar burger, Locanda Portofino and R+D Kitchen are tops for dining; dessert lovers might venture to Sweet Lady Jane for its famous cakes, adored by celebs. Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street is a quieter destination that still retains Santa Monica’s beachyupscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, restaurants, British pubs and boutiques (mostly femme-friendly) such as Monkie, Hiptique and Paris 1900. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speak-easy, Basement Tavern.

THE ARTS

Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s first-rate, 499-seat performing arts center that hosts pop and classical music concerts, film, dance and theater. As L.A. has emerged as a fine-arts capital, the campuslike Bergamot Station (2525 Michigan Ave.) has become an important destination. It’s home to 30 galleries, the Santa Monica Museum of Art and a café.

MALIBU

Twenty miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Stars have made their homes here since the 1920s when May Rindge, the eccentric wife of an heir who once owned all of Malibu, began inviting celebs to live in Malibu Colony to pay legal bills she racked up from fighting developers. Much of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, such as the many restaurants with ocean views, from the supercasual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Geoffrey’s).

Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard shopping centers, there are enough trendy shops and restaurants to while away an afternoon. Inland, nearing Calabasas, are many wineries such as Malibu Family Wines and Sip Malibu, which offer tastings. Malibu Discovery Tours hosts tours of the region.

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES

In the counterculture 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessed by long, winding Topanga Canyon Boulevard from PCH. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty. Dining is best by the burbling creek at restaurants such as Abuelitas and Inn of the Seventh Ray. Pine Tree Circle has a lovely bistro and a few boutiques and galleries. There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park. Cafés and upscale mom-and-pop shops such as Elyse Walker and the Prince’s Table can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. One relatively unknown gem is the SelfRealization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset, a breathtaking oasis on 10 acres with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake. The resplendent Getty Villa, often mistakenly identified as being in Malibu, is in Pacific Palisades. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities. Advance timed tickets are required.

VENICE

Abbot Kinney famously won the land that would become Venice in a coin toss. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, today lined with sleek modern homes and million-dollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina restaurant, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Alexis Bittar, Heist and Vamp are the main attractions. Looky-loos love to stroll Ocean Front Walk to ogle the street vendors and performers, or bodybuilders at Muscle Beach.

BRENTWOOD

Reese Witherspoon, Ben Affleck and Jennifer Garner are some of the celebrities who live in this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants between Bundy Drive and where San Vicente becomes Federal Avenue. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a unique open-air shopping center built in 1948, maintains a retro farmhouse charm but keeps retail offerings contemporary and upscale. The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that houses J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection.

MARINA DEL REY

Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest manmade small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants in the fisherman’s wharf are positioned to take advantage of the views. You can rent kayaks from UCLA Marina Aquatic Center (14001 Fiji Way), or shop and dine at Waterside at the Marina, located at Lincoln Boulevard and Fiji Way. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 116.

great find

DESIGN TIME If you’ve OD’d on Ikea, gain a fresh perspective on Scandinavian design at Venice’s Huset. Huset was formerly an e-commerce site, and since its inception in 2007, the owners have constantly traveled to Scandinavia to unearth emerging designers and products. They showcase a range of home décor, furniture and kitchenware: brightly printed Almedahls tea towels, Giarimi Stockholm etched drinking glasses, a tree-shaped coat rack by Swedese and ladderlike Libri shelves. Kids aren’t left out, what with the selection of Ferm Living wall stickers, Brokiga art prints and innovatively designed toys. There’s also a selection of earthy bohemian clothing in the back from designers such as Hunkydory and Odd Molly. 13161/2 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.268.4213, huset-shop.com

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MAVE_

Explore over 150 shops, restaurants and services from 6th to 17th streets in Santa Monica.

stacia 808 11th street, 310.393.7100 shopstacia.com

LonDon soLE 1331 Montana ave, 310.255.0937 londonsole.com

The Stacia Ecoknits collection is designed locally in Santa Monica by designer Stacy Johnson. The sustainable bamboo knits are friendly to the earth and feel great against your skin. The colorful knitwear collection includes cardigans, dresses, sweaters, scarves, caftans, and ponchos all made in luxurious, washable bamboo. Visit the new beach bungalow inspired boutique and discover bamboo!

London Sole offers the world’s largest collection of ballet flats, ballerina pumps, classic driving loafers and other exquisite traditional flat footwear from designer Jane Winkworth. The Montana and San Francisco boutiques are hot spots for celebrities who have fallen in love with the simple, sophisticated and sometimes bold designs.

Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm

Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm; Sun 11am-6pm

Mon-Sat 10am-6pm

stEP sHoEs 1004 Montana ave, 310.899.4409

tHREE BaGs FULL

taLa JEWELRy 1302 Montana ave, 310.319.0407 talajewelry.com

Step Shoes offers the finest European quality footwear with brands such as Thierry Rabotin, Aguatalia, Cordani, Cydwoq, Mephisto MBT, Isabella Fiore and many more. In addition to its selection of comfortable and classy shoes, Step Shoes has a variety of distinctive handbags and fun accessories to choose from. Step Shoes is where style and comfort come together in total harmony. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 12pm-5pm

the sweater store

716 Montana ave, 310.395.5559 threebagsfull.com Featuring the very best in American and European knitwear. Style, service and versatility–we make travel easy and elegant–small to 2x. From the simplest cotton cardigan to luxurious handknits, Three Bags Full has got you covered.

Mon 10am-5pm; Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Open most Sundays 11am-5pm. Call first.

Montana EyEs 709 Montana ave, 310.917.4474 Do you accessorize with eyewear? Or, are you in the market for that perfect new pair of prescription glasses? Montana Eyes has showcased high-end eyewear for twenty years. This special boutique has any style to suit your needs: from the hottest trends to custom-frames and vintage specs. Come see for yourself why Hollywood stars shop at Montana Eyes.

Tala is Montana Avenue’s newest sparkling addition. Tala is focused on quality and craftsmanship as well as showcasing today’s hottest and most original designers. Italian designers Fope and Piero Milano along with Turkish designs from Gurhan are in-store, in addition to an eclectic and fresh mix of American designers including Aaron Basha, Pandora, Bochic and Chad Allison. If you love jewelry, you’ll love Tala. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6pm

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exploring

West Hollywood

From left: The Grove; Farmers Market; Mel’s Drive-In on the Sunset Strip

Trends in fashion, design and food often begin in L.A., and many of those innovations can be traced to the pioneering community of West Hollywood.

For a municipality measuring less than two square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a disproportionate number of world-class art galleries, fashion boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike. The city, often referred to as WeHo, is home to a large and influential gay community, protective of the city’s cultural development and quality of life. West Hollywood and the adjacent Mid-City West area celebrate diversity, as hipsters live in harmony with senior citizens and immigrants.

Sunset Strip

After dark, this iconic stretch of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Avenue becomes the hottest stretch of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene rocks here with many legendary establishments. The Roxy, Whisky a Go-Go and Rainbow Bar have a long history of hosting performances from rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Other Sunset Strip nightclubs include The Viper Room and the Key Club. The Comedy Store continues to showcase the leading names in standup as well as emerging stars. During the day, boutiques such as Live! on Sunset and beloved Book Soup draw traffic. Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. Skybar, at the style-conscious Mondrian, retains its aura of exclusivity. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted into the Tower Bar.

SUNSET PLAZA

Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente Boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking, a novelty

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OPPOSITE: THE GROVE, CHRISTOPHER IAN SMITH; FARMERS MARKET AND MEL’S DRIVE-IN, IAN WHITE. THIS PAGE: MONICA NOUWENS

The Broad Contemporary Art Museum at Los Angeles County Museum of Art

new in town Fonuts

Chef Waylynn Lucas’ signature creation— a “faux doughnut”—is baked instead of fried. try the maple-bacon fonut! 8104 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.592.3075

Monika Chiang

Boyfriend sweaters, cashmere coats, vixenlike stiletto pumps and other accessories fill out this classic-with-an-edge boutique, designer Chiang’s first. 108 S. robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.786.8200

Nudie Jeans House

Swedish denim brand nudie Jeans Co. finds an L.A. home off Melrose Avenue. 710 edinburgh Ave., L.A., 323.951.0677

Vodvil

Cocktail lounge does “game night for grown-ups” with multimedia games and entertainment. 351 n. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.951.0406

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in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley Girl. For up-to-theminute fashion, check out the collections at Oliver Peoples or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. And after splurging for an outfit that’s all the rage in St. Barts, settle into one of several chic cafés, whose tables spill onto the sidewalk.

MELROSE AVENUE

Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street with multiple personalities. One stretch of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, the street is an eclectic mix of indie boutiques, cafés and coffeehouses interspersed with tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland and Ed Hardy have wild façades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Fred Segal, Diane von Furstenburg, TenOverSix and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the quiet, fashionable three-block street of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up for chic salons such as Frédéric Fekkai and cutting-edge boutiques such as Zero + Maria Cornejo or Chloé.

THE AVENUES

Melrose Avenue’s massive Pacific Design Center is the hub of L.A.’s flourishing art, fashion and design district known as the Avenues, which runs along Melrose Avenue and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. The complex itself—monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—is itself noteworthy (you’ll either love it or hate it), but its 1.2 million square feet houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury homeowners. PDC is also home to a

satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.

BEVERLY + WEST 3rd

Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street are major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, filled with trendy restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, whose design is reminiscent of Paris’ Pompidou Center. Bloomingdale’s, Henri Bendel, Fendi, Gucci, Prada and the Capital Grille are among more than 160 establishments drawing consumers. On 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as Satine, Alexis Bittar for jewelry and Eggy for highend children’s attire. There are many dining options such as Suzanne Goin’s AOC, plus a branch of Manhattan’s Magnolia Bakery. On Beverly Boulevard, you can browse vintage Gucci or Lanvin at Beige, or score unique handcrafted shoes at Calleen Cordero. Afterward, you can experience contemporary American cuisine at Eva Restaurant or modern Latin cooking at Playa.

ROBERTSON BOULEVARD

Beverly Hills may be the toniest shopping district in L.A., but West Hollywood’s Robertson Boulevard is not far behind, particularly if you’re young and hot and have your own reality show. The celebutante set hits Kitson for posh bags, Zimmerman for haute swimwear and AllSaints Spitalfields for a nouveau-goth look. A cutting-edge Chanel concept store illustrates the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. For a breather between boutique-hopping, consider a Bellini with crab cakes on the picket-

fenced patio of The Ivy, where famous faces practically outnumber those of civilians.

FAIRFAX DISTRICT

Technically part of the city of Los Angeles, the Fairfax District is one of the most culturally diverse and artsy neighborhoods in the West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned multifaceted facility with more than 100,000 works from around the world. The Broad Contemporary Art Museum, designed by architect Renzo Piano, showcases art from the contemporary and modern eras, while the latest additions to the LACMA campus include the Lynda and Stewart Resnick Exhibition Pavilion and Ray’s & Stark Bar. Adjacent to LACMA is the Page Museum at the La Brea Tar Pits. Additional venues at this formidable Museum Row include the Petersen Automotive Museum and Craft & Folk Art Museum. South of the museums is a surprise for curious foodies: a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where acclaimed Ethiopian restaurants are located. Be prepared to eat with your hands! One of the district’s anchors is the historic Farmers Market, with more than 100 open-air produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, taquería and stands with authentic Louisiana gumbo and Korean barbecue. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrian-only shopping center. The Grove has the character of an old-fashioned village square, with stained-glass street lamps and central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as J. Crew and Splendid are joined by eateries and restaurants. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of West Hollywood, see pages 116–117.

great find

THE SWEETEST THINGS Move over, Georgetown Cupcakes! A new player with a reality TV show (the Food Network’s Cupcake Wars) will make you drool with delight. Sweet E’s Bake Shop is a sweetly appointed bakery with a bright pink exterior and polka-dotted awning. Inside, among cases of cupcakes with flavors such as chocolate espresso and pumpkin spice, are countless other treats including cake pops, frosting cones, s’mores bars and whoopee pies—just to name a few. True to its L.A. roots, this bakery is a staple on the celebrity events scene, and its cupcakes have been everywhere from backstage at the Academy Awards ceremony to Kim Kardashian’s bridal shower. They might not be the secret to a lasting marriage, but they sure are dreamy. 1417 S. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 323.422.8885, sweetesbakeshop.com

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c t c la

M V

AT THE INTERSECTION OF PAST & PRESENT.

ince 1934, the Original Farmers Market has stood at the crossroads of Los Angeles history and culture. Today, it remains one of the last of the Hollywood legends, attracting people from all over the world to enjoy its eclectic mix of restaurants, grocers, shops and the best people watching the city has to offer. In a world ruled by change, the Original Farmers Market stands as an enduring landmark, steadfast at the junction of then and now, on the corner of Third and Fairfax.

Market events and activities throughout the year. Visit www.farmersmarketla.com for calendars and updates.

“MEET ME AT THIRD

FAIRFAX”

6333 W. THIRD ST., LOS ANGELES, CA 90036 • 323.933.9211 OR 866.993.9211 MONDAY–FRIDAY 9AM–9PM • SATURDAY 9AM–8PM • SUNDAY 10AM–7PM 048-53_WHolly_WLA.indd 51

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PYrrHa

8315 West 3rd Street (323) 424-4807 pyrrha.com

Couture loungewear and pajamas designed by Renee Claire and made in L.A. Also featuring fine bedding and gifts.

BedHead PaJaMaS 8336 West 3rd Street (323) 653-8336 bedheadpjs.com

FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave

Trina Turk

8008 West 3rd Street (323) 651-1382 trinaturk.com

Handmade sterling silver and 14k gold jewelry cast from 19th-century wax seals rich in inspirational imagery.

CreSCent HeigHtS BLvd CreSCent HeigHtS BLvd CreSCent HeigHtS BLvd CreSCent HeigHtS BLvd

Designer Trina Turk’s collection of women’s apparel, accessories and swimwear inspired by the California lifestyle.

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The Orlando on Third, a fashionable, boutique hotel in a vibrant, urban neighborhood. Enjoy a taste of living L.A.!

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Contemporary children’s clothing, toys and accessories.

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8365 West 3rd Street (323) 658-8882 shopeggy.com

Edgy, yet high-end and delicate, this one-of-a-kind jewelry and accessories line is designed and handmade in L.A.

M. COHen

8362 West 3rd Street (323) 782-0600 mcohendesigns.com

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exploring

Hollywood

From left: The Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Hollyhock House; Hollywood Walk of Fame; carousel in Griffith Park in Los Feliz

Hollywood is reclaiming its legendary glamour, and once-bohemian Los Feliz and Silver Lake are sharing in Tinseltown’s new Golden Age.

“Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this part of Los Angeles was in the midst of its decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has reemerged as a bona fide destination. Amid a spirit of transformation, the neon lights on Hollywood Boulevard’s landmark movie palaces are fired up again, as waves of international visitors mingle with colorful locals. This new Golden Age of Hollywood marks the best time to visit in decades.

Hollywood + Highland

The Hollywood & Highland Center has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Kodak Theatre is the home of the Academy Awards and new Cirque du Soleil show Iris, which premiered in July. The center’s shops are varied, including Lucky Brand and Louis Vuitton, and it boasts two nightclubs, the Highlands and Level 3. The central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign. Built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 50-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland.” Next door to Hollywood & Highland is Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, famous for its celebrity handprints embedded in the cement out front. The theater remains a favorite venue for Hollywood premieres.

SHOWTIME

Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s animated releases combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and childrenpleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre—built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre has staged megahit musicals including Wicked, and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing headlining musicians.

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new in town The Annex

Geren Lockhart, designer of Geren Ford, offers her women’s clothing collection and favorite products. By appointment only. 1034 Seward St., Hollywood, 213.689.9500

The Bar at Cliff’s

Cocktail bar in a fashionably rustic space inside Cliff’s Edge restaurant. 3626 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.666.6116

Goorin Bros. Hat Shop

Pseudo-vintage millinery offers a stunning selection of toppers: newsboy caps, fedoras, cloches, beanies and more. 1411/2 Larchmont Blvd., L.A., 323.463.2006

Mohawk Bend

OPPOSITE AND THIS PAGE: IAN WHITE

Hip bar and restaurant with excellent California-style pub fare (vegan dishes, too) and more than 70 craft beers on tap. 2141 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.483.2337

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Griffith Observatory in Griffith Park

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Walk of Fame

The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath the feet of tourists, but the roster is not without its quirks—Pee-wee Herman has one but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is appropriately located in front of the Capitol Records Building, the structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

Museums, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE

Hollywood has its museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet, or even a T. rex skeleton. Next to Grauman’s Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends Clark Gable and Audrey Hepburn to contemporary icons such as Justin Timberlake and Lady Gaga. You can ponder some zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Records Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Museum offers bizarre exhibitions on double-headed animals and shrunken human heads. Serious movie buffs, however, head to the Hollywood Museum, which occupies four floors of the historic Max Factor Building. Among the 10,000 costumes and artifacts on display are Indiana Jones’ whip, Rocky Balboa’s boxing gloves and W.C. Fields’ top hat.

AROUND VINE

The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hol-

lywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, which boasts Delphine brasserie and Drai’s rooftop club. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across the street is boutique hotel the Redbury and its stylish Middle Eastern restaurant, Cleo. Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia. A couple of blocks west is the stylish minicomplex Space 15 Twenty, catering to shoppers well into the evening. The center is anchored by a supersize Urban Outfitters and complemented by other hip boutiques.

NIGHTCRAWLING

The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its endless nightlife opportunities, and a lively bar and club scene permeates the district. On Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at library-themed Hemingway’s, or attempt to get past the velvet ropes at MyHouse and Supperclub. Cahuenga Boulevard also hosts dozens of clubs. Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to October. Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A. Nearby is the Ford Amphitheatre, featuring a more intimate environment for international music, dance and family fare.

LOS FELIZ + SILVER LAKE

These neighborhoods are among the bestkept secrets in the county. Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Newer lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication. A once-forgotten stretch of Hollywood Boulevard in Los Feliz now hosts trendy boutiques such as Confederacy and restaurants including cult fave Umami Burger. Fully transformed is Silver Lake Boulevard, now crowded with eateries and upscale retailers. At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica Boulevards intersect and the eponymous music festival takes place every summer, is where Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea.

GRIFFITH PARK

The largest urban park in America, this sprawling swath is an ideal place to hike, picnic, golf, ride horses and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at the Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent filming location. The hike up Mount Hollywood (three miles round trip) provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the nearby Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also located in Griffith Park is the underrated Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens and the Western heritage-oriented Autry National Center, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 117–118.

great find

FINDERS KEEPERS Since opening Lost & Found on Hollywood’s Yucca Street in 1999, former stylist Jamie Rosenthal has been quietly transforming the block with her sharp retail sense and signature earthy-chic style, garnering a cult international following along the way. Today, the shop’s six adjacent storefronts (children’s, men’s, women’s, home, children’s home and gift) are filled with a colorful assortment of richly textured timeless items, handpicked by Rosenthal to reflect the “best the world has to offer.” Don’t miss the Wovenplay vintage-style tutus, striped Tunisian towels, Campomaggi woven leather bucket bags, African trading beads, silkscreen wall hangings by L.A. artist Sage Vaughn and chunky hand-knit sweaters from Raquel Allegra. 6320 Yucca St., Hollywood, 323.856.5872, lostandfoundshop.com

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exploring

Downtown

From left: City Hall; signage in Grand Central Market; the Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall

L.A.’s urban center reflects the cultural diversity, worldclass architecture and dynamic commerce that makes the city a superstar on the global stage.

Beverly Hills and Venice Beach may be favorite tourist attractions, but downtown should not be overlooked. Historic art deco structures share the streetscape with glass- or titaniumclad masterpieces, and even movie stars are snapping up hip lofts carved out of turn-of-the-century structures. The city’s arts scene roars to life in downtown, a place where the usual image of L.A. as “laid-back” hardly applies.

Union Station

The ornate Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but Union Station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From Union Station, the hub of the Metro system, you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or the light rail Gold Line to Pasadena and Blue Line to Long Beach. From here, nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7, Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and you can jump on an Amtrak train for a scenic journey along the coast.

Grand Avenue + MUSIC CENTER

The heart of L.A.’s performing arts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of stages at The Music Center. The 3,200-seat Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to the Los Angeles Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest Music Center venue is architect Frank Gehry’s curvaceous, jaw-dropping Walt Disney Concert Hall, home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. Its young music director, Gustavo Dudamel, exudes an energy that rivals the building’s audacious design. Also housed at Disney Hall, with a separate entrance around the corner, is REDCAT, which offers performance and visual arts productions. Patina offers elegant feasts inside Disney Hall.

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new in town Chemline

Sustainable women’s clothing boutique featuring hip, underground design talent. 504 Chung King Court, Chinatown, 213.330.0446

One-Eyed Gypsy

Sumptuous 1930s-styled cocktail bar filled with vintage carnival games. 901 e. 1st St., downtown

Silo Vodka Bar

interior illusions-designed bar with an “ice lounge”—a sleekly outfitted walk-in freezer—for vodka tasting. 221 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.891.1063

The Bradbury Building is an iconic example of Italian Renaissance Revival architecture.

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DESCENDING BUNKER HILL

Steps from the Music Center is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), Southern California’s premier contemporary art museum. The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent. Nearby Angels Knoll is a welcome patch of greenery amid the concrete jungle. Angels Flight, a vintage funicular that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, is billed as “The Shortest Railway in the World” (just 298 feet!); a ride costs 25 cents. At the foot of the hill, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, the tallest building west of the Mississippi. Across the street is the Los Angeles Public Library, an art deco masterpiece.

OLVERA STREET

The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is located here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is still just 9 cents.

HISTORIC DISTRICTS

Often overlooked by tourists is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces ablaze in neon. A few, such as the Orpheum Theatre, have been restored to their original grandeur. Historic structures are being converted into lofts; Johnny Depp owns a condo in Broadway’s Eastern Columbia Building. The Bradbury Building (304 S. Broadway), built in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

Spring Street, from 4th to 7th streets, is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of hip bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes Las Perlas and Mignon.

SHOPPING DISTRICTS

Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts, popular with bargain hunters. The Jewelry District draws shoppers to markets such as St. Vincent Jewelry Center (650 S. Hill St.), where 500 merchants offer gold, diamonds and baubles. In the neighboring Fashion District, 115 blocks centered around the California Market Center, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. And for an awesome array of produce and international foods, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. Many vendors here deal in cash only.

CHINATOWN

Chinatown remains a great destination for sampling dim sum or browsing for authentic clothing, tea or home furnishings. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple (750 Yale St.) and the Chinese American Museum. Pedestrian-oriented Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are now home to galleries and Mountain Bar, while Broadway boasts cool boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

LITTLE TOKYO

Little Tokyo is still a proud ethnic enclave, but it, too, is emerging as an up-and-coming hipster ’hood. The dining scene is popping, led by newer restaurants such as Aburiya

Toranoko, and you can still nibble on traditional sushi prepared by veteran chefs at Japanese Village Plaza. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek, glass-ensconced Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a Frank Gehry-renovated branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the historic Cathedral of Saint Vibiana, formerly home of the Los Angeles Archdiocese.

L.A. LIVE

The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project has been called the epicenter of the downtown renaissance. Staples Center, home to the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, hosts top pop acts, as does Nokia Theatre L.A. Live, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The adjoining Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and clubs— Katsuya, WP24 and The Conga Room, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with towering LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

EXPOSITION PARK

Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum. The sevenacre Exposition Park Rose Garden is legendary, and the Beaux-Arts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. Other attractions include the California African American Museum and the California Science Center with its 3-D IMAX theater. The science center is the future home of space shuttle Endeavour. Farther west of Exposition Park is the jazz and blues capital of Leimert Park; south is Watts, home of the Watts Towers. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of downtown, see page 117.

great find Pie might be the dessert trend of 2011, but the treats at new pie shop The Pie Hole are just a little left of center. Led by former Eveleigh general manager Sean Brennan, Matthew Heffner and his mother, Rebecca Grasley, the Pie Hole serves up traditional sweet pies including lemon curd meringue and Becky’s apple crumb, and more creative versions such as peanut butter-pretzel. The savory dishes are where things get really unexpected—think a carnitas hand pie, or mac-and-cheese pie. (Many menu items are made from Grasley’s family recipes.) Other desserts offered include whoopie pies, Pop Tart-like pie tarts and a Spanishstyle pastry made with chocolate and caramel. Beverages come in the form of coffees and artisanal cane-sugar sodas. 714 Traction Ave., downtown, 213.537.0115, thepieholela.com

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ACE IN THE HOLE

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exploring

Pasadena

From left: The streets of Old Pasadena; Pasadena City Hall; Colorado Street Bridge

Pasadena, aka the Crown City, brings a blend of small-town charm and cosmopolitan energy. Eagle Rock, Glendale and the San Gabriel Valley are also worth discovering.

Just minutes from downtown via the historic Arroyo Seco Parkway or the Metro Gold Line train, Pasadena is no ordinary bedroom community. The Craftsman-style bungalows in its leafy neighborhoods hint of a world-renowned architectural heritage, and institutions such as the Tournament of Roses, Caltech and NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory, nearby, give the community a gravitas far beyond its size. In neighboring San Gabriel Valley communities, additional treasures await.

Old Pasadena

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut Street and Del Mar Boulevard, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the once-neglected district contains restored buildings and the city’s trendiest boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through One Colorado, where an eclectic collection of restaurants have alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. A few steps east of Old Pasadena lies Paseo Colorado, an inviting shopping center with ArcLight Cinemas and upscale shops such as Brighton Collectibles, Coach and BCBG Max Azria lining garden promenades. A wide variety of dining options is offered at this mixeduse development, whose open-air design frames views of such historic structures as soaring Pasadena City Hall (100 N. Garfield Ave.), restored to its original Beaux-Arts grandeur.

Playhouse District

Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district is filled with upscale antique shops, boutiques and dining rooms with ornate façades. Also present is the Le Cordon Bleu-affiliated College of Culinary Arts, with a restaurant open to the public, and the famed Ice House comedy club. The neighboring Boston Court Performing Arts Center presents dramas and musicals. The pagoda-crowned Pacific Asia Museum features exotic

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new in town Chi Dynasty

California meets China at this new eatery at the Americana at Brand; the Chinese chicken salad is a favorite. 769 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.500.9888

Kings Row Gastropub

Old Pasadena pub with outdoor patio offers a menu full of guilty pleasures: bangers and mash, duck sliders, a Merguez sausage corn dog. 20 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.793.3010

Letters From L.A.

Lovingly curated boutique with independent womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing designers. 5022 Eagle Rock Blvd., Eagle Rock, 323.340.1546

Sephora

OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: AMY K. FELLOWS; EDWIN SANTIAGO; BJARNE G. JENSEN. THIS PAGE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

The cosmetics cornucopia arrives in Old Town. 13 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.683.3100

The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino

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decorative arts from every corner of Asia, and the Pasadena Museum of California Art celebrates Golden State painters and sculptors from 1850 to the present. Dining choices include Pie ’n Burger, a favorite Caltech dive, and Playhouse-adjacent Elements Kitchen. Just east of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. At the Commons and Burlington Arcade, charming boutiques are set around European-style courtyards. A drive farther south on Lake Avenue reveals the opulent, historic Langham, Huntington Hotel.

Orange Grove Boulevard

This wide boulevard, once called Millionaire’s Row, is still lined with splendid estates, including the former Wrigley Mansion, which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association and is open for tours. The immediate neighborhood features the legacy of architects Frank Lloyd Wright, Wallace Neff and Paul Williams. The genius of Greene & Greene, pioneers of the Arts & Crafts movement, is evident at the Gamble House, also open to the public. Just around the corner on Colorado Boulevard is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in America. The galleries at this small museum are filled with masterpieces from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and its repertoire of Impressionist masters (Monet, Cézanne, van Gogh) is impressive. It also features extensive art from India and a tribute to Degas in a lovely sculpture garden.

SAN MARINO + SOUTH PASADENA

In the exclusive residential community of San Marino is the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens, one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here the beautifully restored Itali-

anate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington is packed with 18th- and 19thcentury art including Thomas Gainsborough’s Blue Boy and Sir Thomas Lawrence’s Pinkie. A library with 600,000 rare books and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than one dozen distinct botanical environments, recreating native habitats from England, China and elsewhere. Tea service is offered in a cottage amid a formal rose garden. Directly south of Old Pasadena is the independent municipality of South Pasadena, a shady, tranquil community. The Mission West historic district, particularly Mission Street, is packed with antique shops, galleries and cafes. The town is particularly kid-friendly, thanks to adorable shops such as the Dinosaur Farm and Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a 1915 restored drugstore with a soda fountain.

EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE

Just west of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town that is reinventing itself as a hip neighborhood with an understated boho-chic vibe. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is suddenly lined with one trendy cafe after another, from Vietnamese to French to vegetarian—plus Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. Students from Occidental College, where a young Barack Obama studied, mingle with young couples who have snapped up the hillside real estate. On the other side of Eagle Rock is Glendale. In this, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County, office workers pour out of high-rises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, a buzzing open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Here style-savvy shoppers can find value at H&M or splurge at exclusive boutiques like Kate Spade. It’s a great place for a movie followed by an alfresco snack from Crumbs

Bake Shop or sushi and cocktails at the Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya. The Glendale Galleria shopping center is adjacent. Glendale’s diverse population—it’s home to one of the largest Armenian communities in America—provides plenty of flavor, including elaborate restaurants. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre (216 N. Brand Blvd.), an art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Just north of downtown Glendale is the delightful community of Montrose, with its homespun shops and all-American diners. Nearby is sprawling Descanso Gardens, home to North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when fully in bloom during January and February.

SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

Kissing Pasadena’s eastern border is Sierra Madre, a quaint community that refuses to be paved over. Arcadia is home to Santa Anita Park, one of the most storied thoroughbred horse racing venues in the world. Adjacent to the racetrack is Westfield Santa Anita, an ever-expanding shopping center. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanical Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peafowl; you might see a flock crossing nearby streets. The 1771 San Gabriel Mission is a notable landmark in the neighboring city of San Gabriel. The San Gabriel Valley cities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Alhambra and Monterey Park have drawn large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants in recent decades, and some of the best Chinese restaurants in America are found here, including Hong Kong-style seafood houses that are great fun for dim sum brunches. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 118.

great find

COMING TO YOUR ADE Remember your school cafeteria? So quick! So convenient! With such horrible food! Lemonade takes the concept to a different, more delicious level, serving up seasonal fare cafeteria-style in a cheery, citrus-colored space. There are no mystery meats and instant mashed potatoes here—instead, find dishes such as orecchiette with roasted tomatoes and perlini mozzarella with red peppers alongside citrus-poached salmon filet, harissa-roasted chicken breast and sandwiches including holiday turkey with Gruyère, artichoke and cranberry relish. There are also braised meats and pot roast, soups, salads and tempting desserts such as extra-large macarons, not to mention several varieties of lemonades. 146 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.304.7700, lemonadela.com

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UNT21

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ust 15 minutes from downtown Los Angeles, and conveniently

situated along the Metro Gold Line, Old Pasadena is a vibrant hub of world-class shopping, dining, arts, and entertainment. Comprised of 22 blocks of nationally-registered historic architecture, Old Pasadena is widely recognized as a premier destination and one of the few truly walkable urban districts in California.

Ne h

Come explore more than 300 specialty boutiques, exclusive retailers, sidewalk cafés, and fine restaurants in this authentic main street experience.

1810 Restaurant brings Argentina to Old Pasadena with authentic cuisine, great wines and nice atmosphere.

More than 400 wines – 70 available by the glass – and an array of intriguing flight options, to be paired with seasonal American Bistro fare.

Gold Bug

1810 Restaurant

Vertical Wine Bistro

22 E. Union St. 626.744.9963 goldbugpasadena.com

121 W. Colorado Blvd. 626.795 5658 1810restaurant.com

A contemporary cabinet of curiosities with a museum perspective on current artists, jewelers, and designers.

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70 N. Raymond Ave. 626.795.3999 verticalwinebistro.com

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ns, re.

Executive Chef Rahm Fama of the Food Network show Meat and Potatoes adds flair to his Modern Steakhouse and Raw Oyster Bar.

Shopping fun at this high-end designer resale store, that offers the best of recent and vintage Chanel, LV, Prada and more!

Culture 22

Clothes Heaven

45 S. Fair Oaks Ave. 626.585.8888 culture22.net

111 E. Union St. 626.440.0929 clothesheaven.com

Delicious all-natural soaps and scrubs handmade from scratch in the onsite kitchen, using refined, age-old methods.

LA Times Reader’s Choice 2011: Best Indian. Generations of culinary tradition presented by gracious servers amid tasteful décor.

Dine and drink in Old Pasadena’s favorite gastropub, a brick-clad historic landmark with a full bar and beer garden.

The Soap Kitchen

Akbar Cuisine of India

Kings Row Gastropub

43 N. Fair Oaks Ave. 626.396.9996 thesoapkitchen.com

44 N. Fair Oaks Ave. 626.577.9916 akbarcuisineofindia.com

20 E. Colorado Blvd. 626.793.3010 kingsrowpub.com

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EXPLORING

The Valley

The San Fernando Valley, aka “the other side of the hill,” celebrates the Hollywood spirit. lywood Way, offers cafés, antique shops and boutiques including Encore Nouveau and the Magnolia Commons, where new designs share shelf space with vintage pieces. There’s as much Hollywood going on here as in Hollywood itself, thanks to the presence of several studios. Warner Bros. Studios and NBC Studios offer back-lot tours, and all of the studios recruit audience members for tapings of sitcoms and talk shows. Audiences Unlimited is among the ticketing agencies offering free tickets to tapings. If you’re jetting in or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for the milder, uncongested Bob Hope Airport.

NORTH HOLLYWOOD

The Valley is a sprawling collection of bedroom communities whose population approaches 2 million. Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge. Universal Studios Hollywood and Universal CityWalk hug a hillside above the Hollywood Freeway, marking the southeastern gateway to the Valley.

UNIVERSAL CITY

Just a couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment industry outpost. Universal Studios Hollywood offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking and high-tech action rides such as King Kong 360 3-D. Make like Brad and Angelina and spring for Universal’s VIP Experience, in which guests are pampered like the stars. Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only, admission-free Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFLY Hollywood, an exhilarating wind tunnel, mechanical bull riding at Saddle Ranch Chop House and stand-up performances at Jon Lovitz Comedy Club. Boutiques such as Abercrombie & Fitch and Lush Cosmetics will loosen your wallet before you take in a show at the neighboring Gibson Amphitheatre.

BURBANK

The “beautiful downtown Burbank” that Johnny Carson used to poke fun at has grown up into a cosmopolitan hub. Burbank Town Center (201 E. Magnolia Blvd.) offers a major mall shopping experience, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel with hip shops and trendy bistros such as Granville Café. Magnolia Park, a quaint commercial district centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hol-

VENTURA BOULEVARD

This palm-lined boulevard that stretches 20 miles from one end of the San Fernando Valley to the other has been immortalized in music by the Everly Brothers, Frank Zappa and Tom Petty. In Studio City, it’s lined with an eclectic mix of eateries, including entertainment industry-favored Art’s Deli and more acclaimed sushi bars (Sushi Nozawa, Katsu-ya, Asanebo) than Little Tokyo. For shopping, there are hip boutiques such as Mimi & Hy and the stylish retreat Belle Visage Day Spa. Celebrities treasure the Valley’s more family-oriented lifestyle. Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros and shops such as Belle Gray, owned by actress Lisa Rinna. Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Bloomingdale’s and featuring Betsey Johnson, Zara and In Add Minus boutiques in a particularly pleasant, upscale environment.

DEEP IN THE VALLEY

Warner Center is a high-rise mixed-use development in Woodland Hills, and the neighboring Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Cartier and Hugo Boss. Farther westbound on the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for elbow room. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons Hotel. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5), coaster enthusiasts go to Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 118.

RICK MEYER

AMC Walkway in Burbank

North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. Dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With the addition of new restaurants such as the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub, the momentum continues. From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway, or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the San Fernando Valley.

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Where

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exploring

South Bay

From left: The Korean Bell of Friendship in San Pedro; Shoreline Village in Long Beach; Maison Riz restaurant on Redondo Beach Pier

The South Bay’s beaches and harbors are actionpacked, but the living is easy. Look for ocean-view dining, mom-andpop shops and seaside attractions.

In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic coastal stretch renowned for surfing, volleyball and expensive real estate. Farther south beckon the rugged bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, and beyond them, the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach. Longing for a laid-back vibe? Scenic beaches? Premier shopping and dining? Outdoor adventure? You’ll find all of them here and more.

Manhattan Beach

Nineteen miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles, Manhattan Beach boasts two miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers from Waikiki Beach in Honolulu imported it in the 1920s. One of the more affluent cities in the county, Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You may spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. At the end of the 928-foot-long Manhattan Beach Pier, the Roundhouse Aquarium delights with touch tanks and terrifies with a lifesize replica of a great white shark. The pier features bronze plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is die-hard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for water-sports enthusiasts, including boogie-boarders and surfers who congregate near the pier. East of the pier, casual cafes, laid-back bars and upscale boutiques radiate from the intersection of Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue. Metlox Plaza is a popular gathering spot, with such shops as Wright’s Baby and the Beehive and hot spots such as Zinc at the Shade Hotel.

Hermosa Beach

Heading south on Manhattan Avenue brings you to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics of Manhattan Beach, including a scenic twomile stretch of beachfront punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the

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CHRISTOPHER IAN SMITH. OPPOSITE: KOREAN BELL OF FRIENDSHIP AND SHORELINE VILLAGE, BJARNE G. JENSEN; MAISON RIZ, EDWIN SANTIAGO

Lions Lighthouse for Sight in Long Beach

new in town Cami

popular clothing boutique cami gets a sister store emphasizing shoes, handbags, jewelry and other accessories. 1146 highland ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.2264

Hotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kitchen restaurant with more than 50 types of tacos plus fusion dishes in an open-air dining room. 844 hermosa ave., hermosa Beach, 310.318.2939

The Strand House consulting chef neal Fraser (grace, Bld) serves artisan pizzas, house-made pastas and more in a space just steps from Manhattan Beach pier. 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470

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Strand (here merged with the bike path), and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at Pier Avenue west of Hermosa Avenue becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from hopping bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s and Mediterraneo. Beyond Pier Plaza to the south, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club with Sunday night shows. To the plaza’s east, the ecofriendly cafe/boutique Gum Tree is a charming standout among the specialty shops and bistros that line Pier Avenue. Across the street, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear apropos for the town’s reigning pastimes.

Redondo Beach

The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring two miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here, you’ll find businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offering recreational fishing excursions and whale-watching tours, while other local outfitters rent kayaks, paddle boats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier has had its ups and downs, but it keeps rising from the ashes to attract locals and visitors to quick eats, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow beach of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants

and specialty boutiques such as Lisa Z. and MPressions covering a six-block radius.

PALOS VERDES PENINSULA

Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Hugging the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West brings you to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a marine museum and popular gray-whale-watching site during the annual northbound migration. Eight miles inland on Crenshaw Boulevard sprawls the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden in tony Palos Verdes Estates. Just beyond the interpretive center on Palos Verdes Drive West is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Lloyd Wright, son of Frank. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue. Golfers, take note: The Mediterraneanstyle Terranea Resort, just south of the chapel, has a public nine-hole course. A couple of miles south, the 18-hole public golf course at Trump National Golf Club is top-ranked.

SAN PEDRO

The multicultural city of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today, it’s home to the Port of Los Angeles, a major container port that also serves travelers on the Catalina Express and more than 1 million cruise passengers annually. From the port’s World Cruise Center, a vintage trolley takes visitors downtown to the waterfront restaurants and shops of the New England-style Ports O’ Call Village, and then to the marina, part of the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex. The complex includes a historic bathhouse and the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium, located next to Cabrillo Beach. Windsurfers

of all abilities congregate here, with outfitters including Captain Kirk’s (525 N. Harbor Blvd.) offering rentals and lessons.

LONG BEACH

Covering 50 square miles in the southwest corner of L.A. County, Long Beach boasts a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than five miles of beaches. Among its most popular draws is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor. Alongside it is the Cold War-era Russian Foxtrot Submarine. The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center and the Pike at Rainbow Harbor entertainment complex are nearby, as is the Aquarium of the Pacific and the familyfriendly Shoreline Village. From the village, you can rent bicycles and follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles along the water, passing the Long Beach Museum of Art. The path ends at the tony Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find restaurants and shops along 2nd street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier, windsurfing and kite-surfing lessons, and even gondola rides through the canals of Naples, a neighborhood situated on islands in Alamitos Bay. Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage furniture and clothing shops such as the Vintage Collective make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway, while farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 117.

great find

LAID-BACK, FASHION-FORWARD When it comes to that effortlessly fabulous California girl vibe—you know, with the suntouched waves, Seaton cashmere cardi and “these old things?” latest J. Brand jeans—the ladies of Manhattan Beach have it nailed. So what better spot than the Metlox shopping center for Jill Roberts, Seaton owner/designer and namesake of celeb-frequented boutiques in Santa Monica and Beverly Hills, to open up a third eponymous shop? Coveted labels such as Alexander Wang, Mother Denim and Current/Elliot fill the racks of the spanking new location, and local fashionistas pant for Roberts’ signature mix of boho-chic and timelessly stylish (with a dash of luxe beach) casual wear. Be among the first in line. 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.546.8400, jillroberts.com

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JUMPING THE

POND Look no further than your neighborhood gastropub for some of the most creative cooking in L.A.

ALEXANDRA MARLIN

BY ROGER GRODY

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OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: COURTESY PUBLIC KITCHEN & BAR; JAMES HALL; ANTHONY TERBUSH; NICOLE CALDWELL; COURTESY THE FEDERAL BAR

Pubs are typically known for great beer and mediocre food, but gastropubs have become the laboratories of the most talented young chefs. The concept began in Great Britain, where some rebellious, innovative chefs started turning out extraordinary cuisine—the kind of cooking previously reserved for more formal, expensive establishments—without pretense or high prices. After moving across the pond to the U.S., the gastropub has been met with a particularly warm response in L.A.

∏

glaze is cut by a splash of Wild Turkey bourbon. The beer batter ome say the first gastropub in L.A., ahead of the for the fish and chips incorporates the L.A.-brewed craft ale called trend, was Ford’s Filling Station, which was also Nibble Bit Tabby, and the bar dispenses a wide selection of quirky responsible for spearheading the migration of domestic labels. For dessert, consider an old-fashioned chocolate talented chefs to Culver City, once a culinary backshake spiked with cayenne pepper. water. When chef/owner Ben Ford (son of actor At Public Kitchen & Bar, at the historic Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, Harrison) opened the Filling Station in 2004, fresh veteran chef/restaurateur Tim Goodell strikes an attractive balance from a failed fine-dining venture in Beverly Hills, he between the spirit of a pub and fine dining. With its chocolate leather kept it simple with cheese and charcuterie plates, banquettes, contemporary wrought-iron chandeliers and white a great burger and intriguing flatbreads. Today, these staples, along marble bar, the room is casual, but the hand-painted ceiling hints of with comfort foods such as deviled eggs, fried chicken sliders the grand history of the Roosevelt, which hosted the first Academy and fruit cobblers, are washed down with craft microbrews, and Awards ceremony in 1929. Nibble on some Parker House rolls, an East worn brick and wood contribute to a warm, casual ambience. Coast retro favorite, while perusing a menu that proclaims “Food for The best gastropub in Culver City, and perhaps the best representathe People.” As in many gastropubs, pork fat is a major theme here, tion of the trend in L.A., is Waterloo & City, where a pair of haute but Goodell’s chicharrónes (thin, deep-fried slices of pork belly) hardcuisine veterans has nailed the concept. Named after a historic link ly resemble the snacks you might grab in a rush at the corner conveof the London Underground, Waterloo & City features the cooking of nience store. A special of crispy-crusted hunk of luxuriously fatty pork Mélisse alum Brendan Collins, and the front of the house is overseen by belly, served over soft polenta and drizzled with cherry gastrique, ups gracious Carolos Tomazos, previously of Manhattan heavyweights Per the ante. For desserts, consider English trifle or salted caramel pudSe and Le Bernardin. The restaurant took over an old family-oriented ding with killer shortbread cookies. Public Kitchen’s wine list features diner, but even with some updated, hip design elements, it retains an a number of noteworthy bottles priced less than $50. unpretentious vibe. Collins, a Briton, could teach most French chefs in New in restaurant-challenged Century City is SmithHouse Tap & town a thing or two about the art of charcuterie, turning out houseGrill, which takes the “tap” part of its name very seriously. The massive made rabbit-and-pistachio or venison-and-huckleberry terrines, duckbar that dominates the room boasts more than 120 beers on tap, and and-walnut pâté, or exotic items such as a foie gras-smoked eel terrine. some tables even have built-in taps. Agents, entertainment attorneys Crispy fries, served in a paper cone, are accompanied by a subtle and their beleaguered assistants pour out of nearby office towers to harissa mayo, and a plate of deep-fried zucchini blossoms filled relax over craft beers and a menu designed by former Top Chef conteswith shrimp mousse is decorated with dollops of piri piri, a potent tant and Jean-Georges Vongerichten protégé Angelo Sosa. An eclectic African hot sauce. Steamed mussels are enlivened with red Thai array of starters includes meaty St. Louis ribs lacquered with pineapple curry, and Collins’ thick pork chop is as juicy and tender as a barbecue sauce, gazpacho and a blue cheese-dressed lettuce wedge good rib-eye. Sometimes it’s topped with a black pudding (blood salad whose stature is elevated by braised pork belly. The SmithHouse sausage) patty that’s a perfect complement to the mild pork, served burger—vintage beef with a buttery bone marrow-Parmesan crust—is with apple relish. In addition to about 30 international craft beers, popular, but so are Vietnamese-inspired bánh mì sandwiches. Diners Waterloo & City offers a wine list loaded with intriguing small finish with pretzel-crusted cheesecake or bread pudding. producers from around the globe. For dessert, Collins shows off his Not many restaurants migrate from Orange County to L.A., but Old years of French training with a perfect tarte tatin and celebrates Pasadena is the beneficiary of a new Haven Gastropub + Brewery, an his own heritage with a sticky toffee pudding. O.C. fave. Chef Greg Daniels loves to experiment with The best place to eat before catching a play in North animal parts other chefs throw away or don’t give Hollywood’s boho-funky NoHo Arts District is The Opposite, clockwise their customers enough credit for appreciating. Pig’s Federal Bar, located in a historic bank building. With from right: Crispy oxtail ear, porchetta di testa (hog’s head) and rabbit liver vintage lighting and tin-stamped ceilings, it exudes galette from Public Kitchen & Bar in Hollyare all favorite ingredients of Daniels’. The bar pours a cool pre-Prohibition vibe. The quality of the burger wood; Haven Gastropub nearly 150 craft beers and the menu is loaded with speaks volumes about a gastropub, and the Fed’s— + Brewery chef Greg Daniels; SmithHouse Tap compelling nouveau pub specialties such as beef cheek layered with garlic chips, aged cheddar and balsamic & Grill in Century poutine (a French-Canadian dish of gravy-smothered onions—is deserving of its soft brioche bun. There’s City; pan-roasted quail and quail sausage fries), goose pastrami sandwich, pheasant potpie and also a lamb burger with a Greco-Mediterranean twist, from Haven Gastropub bacon ice cream. A whole suckling pig is just a phone an entire menu of hot dogs (e.g. duck sausage with in Pasadena; The Federal call away, serving eight to 14 hungry porko-holics. fennel slaw) and addictive meatballs whose sugary Bar in North Hollywood

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Chef-Owner

Francesco Velasco Shows His Rustic Side

Now opeN! 362 North Camden Drive in Beverly Hills, California 90210 www.tradinoirestaurants.com 310-277-7346

Left top | Ligurian Focaccia di Recco Left MiddLe | Genoese-style focaccia,

strewn with roasted vegetables Left BottoM | Baker Mauricio Salinas checking the temperature of the pizza oven ABove top | Chef-Owner Francesco Velasco, with freshly sliced, imported proscuitto ABove | brioche and coronettes just out of the oven photos by Matthew Fried

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shariNg space with Tra di Noi Ristorante & Bar on Camden Drive in Beverly Hills, La Focacceria Artisan Bread & Bakery Café specializes in rustic Italian cuisine. Executive Chef-Owner Francesco Velasco wants to use La Focacceria to demonstrate his soulful side, creating comfort food like roasted chicken, braised short ribs, pizza, sandwiches, and pastries. Before launching the bakery, Velasco researched focaccia in all its varying forms throughout Italy. What most Americans think of as focaccia—a spongy, hole-filled, one-inch thick bread flavored with olive oil and topped with rosemary and onions— is from Genoa. Velasco doesn’t like the woody texture of roasted rosemary, so to avoid it, he infuses that herb in the olive oil used to make the dough. He also prefers to cut the onions vertically to get the best texture possible on the top of the focaccia. “The onions release too much water if they are cut horizontally,” he insists. For this

Genoese-style of focaccia, often strewn with roasted vegetables, Velasco will change the toppings seasonally. Another kind of focaccia is served in the region of Liguria. This Roman focaccia is paper-thin and crispy, usually presented without any toppings at all. Velasco likes to layer Taleggio cheese between these thin sheets and create a sort of focaccia tart that resembles a pizza with an amazing amount of flavor. In Italy it’s known as Focaccia di Recco. Instead of Taleggio, he might spread a mixture of braised leeks, mortadella, and a Parmesan cheese sauce between the focaccia sheets, also to excellent effect. Of course Velasco uses his focaccia bread to make sandwiches. “A sandwich is like a building,” he says. “We start with the bread, consider its structure, and then decide on the amount and type of filling.” That filling might take advantage of the wide selection of Italian cured meats called salumi flown in from

BeLow | three pizzas on the patio BottoM | Genoese focaccia cooking at 750

degrees for 3 minutes.

photos by Matthew Fried

La Focacceria

artisan bread & bakery café

before launching the bakery, Velasco researched focaccia in all its varying forms throughout italy.

New York from Salumeria Rosi. Or the many artisan cheeses on display behind the bakery counter. Or Velasco’s housecured pickles and spreads. He assembles everything from a simple prosciutto-andbutter sandwich to a New-Orleans-style muffaletta on ciabatta bread. For the pastries, Velasco again looked all over Italy for inspiration. The coronetto is a horn-shaped pastry similar to a croissant,

and he fills his with fruit jams, custards, sweet ricotta, and even nutella. One of his favorite pastries is the lemon brioche with sweet ricotta cheese. The bread is infused with orange-blossom water and the ricotta is studded with lemon peel. It’s the perfect accompaniment to a strong cup of espresso, and a sweet way to celebrate an afternoon break.

362 North Camden Drive in Beverly Hills, California 90210 www.tradinoirestaurants.com 310-277-7346

La Focacceria

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Dining SPOTLIGHT

American

Guidelines

a/k/a an american bistro Menu inspired by California wine country cuisine; 40 wines by the glass. Emphasis on house-made and house-cured ingredients in dishes such as PEI mussels with smoked Manila clams and chorizo. L, D (daily). One Colorado, 41 Hugus Alley, Pasadena, 626.564.8111 $$ Map Q19

Index

animaL Bare-bones eatery, from the guys known as the “Two Dudes” to Food Network fans, is a carnivore’s dream. Think delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig’s ear) and a bacon-chocolate crunch bar for dessert. D (nightly). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13 bLvd Beverly Wilshire Hotel combines contemporary design, chandelier elegance and sumptuous menu. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.275.5200 $$$ Map J11 charLie’s Chophouse fare, upscale pizzas, seafood and pastas in a dining room/lounge with leopard-print décor. L (M–F), D (nightly). 22821 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.3231 $$$$ Map east of A1

sbe-taly

A “market of glass” is the latest dining destination to be unveiled by trendy SBE. Mercato di Vetro has a menu designed by Daniel Elmaleh, the chef who makes Mediterranean and Middle Eastern fare chic at Cleo in Hollywood. Elmaleh tackles Italian cuisine here, in a space that combines restaurant, bar and market. After a long list of antipasti—chicken liver crostini, stuffed squash blossoms and cured meats and cheeses—the menu moves on to wood-oven-cooked pizzas, a raw bar selection, and meat, fish and pasta entrees. Standouts include a clam pizza and a raviolo stuffed with potato and egg. (Pictured: Olive and ricotta salad.) 9077 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.859.8369

craFt New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers an endless, contemporary American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including octopus with Greek yogurt and rose-syrup-drizzled foie gras. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11 hard rock caFe Hard Rock can be counted on for fun, indulgent fare such as pulled pork sandwiches, twisted mac, chicken & cheese and barbecued ribs. Memorabilia, artifacts and souvenirs from the onsite gift shop celebrate rock ‘n’ roll’s legends. L, D (daily). Universal CityWalk, 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.622.7625; Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.7625 $$ Map U19, H13 ivY restaUrant This is one of the entertainment industry’s favorite gathering spots; if your face isn’t well known, be prepared for a cool reception. American comfort food is often deconstructed to suit the celebrity clientele. L.A.: L, D (daily); Ivy at the Shore: B, L, D (daily), Br (Su). 113 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.274.8303; Ivy at the Shore, 1535 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.393.3113 $$$ Map I11, L8 Jar Chef Suzanne Tracht presents an L.A. take on traditional, comforting American fare in a chic interpretation of an old-school chophouse. A meal might begin with crab-deviled eggs before moving on to the signature pot roast. Br (Su), D (nightly). 8225 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6566 $$$ Map I12

Restaurants are listed by city on page 89. Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 115–118. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

American ...............................78 Breweries/Gastropubs....80 British......................................80 California...............................80 Chinese....................................81 Clubs/Supper Clubs ..........81 Eclectic/Fusion.....................81 French......................................82 Indian.......................................82 Italian .......................................82

Japanese ...............................84 Korean ....................................84 Mediterranean....................84 Mexican/Latin .....................85 Pan-Asian ..............................85 Quick Bites ........................... 86 Seafood.................................. 86 Spanish .................................. 86 Steak ........................................87 Thai.......................................... 88

m.b. post New. Small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. “Eat Your Vegetables” menu makes green beans, brussels sprouts and cauliflower look tantalizing. D (nightly). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 mUsso & Frank GriLL Hollywood’s oldest (1919). Enjoy flannel cakes, lobster Thermidor and Welsh rarebit with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L, D (Tu–Sa). 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 $$ Map H13 noé Visitors heading to the Museum of Contemporary Art or Walt Disney Concert Hall find Noé a convenient spot for a classy repaste. Noé executive chef Glen Ishii serves “neo-bistro” menu with a Japanese spin such as calamari with yuzu crème fraîche and chicken katsu sliders. D (nightly). Omni Hotel, 251 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.356.4100 $$ Map H16 roLLinG stone restaUrant & LoUnGe Magazine’s restaurant concept offers rock ‘n’ roll ambience and upscale comfort fare. Lounge with DJ and small plates. Open until 2 am (F–Sa). L, D (daily). Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.4000 $$ Map H13 the roYce Chef David Feau does molecular gastronomy and unconventional flavor combinations: lobster and pomegranate “hot and snow,” venison and lychee compote, porcini casserole with pear. D (Tu–Sa). The Langham Huntington Hotel, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.6410 $$$$ Map S20

Joan’s on third Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups, sweets plus picnic baskets, gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285 $ Map I12

saddLe peak LodGe Nestled in the Santa Monica Mountains, this hunt-lodge-themed spot is a study in romantic rusticity, with moose heads overlooking candlelit tables. The menu focuses on game dishes such as seared New Zealand elk tenderloin or grilled Texas nilgai antelope. Br (Su), D (W–Su). 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, 818.222.3888 $$$$ Map northwest of A1

kate mantiLini Designer comfort cuisine reigns at this slick, clubby standby. Late-night menu. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa-Su); Woodland Hills: L (M–F), D (nightly). 9101 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.278.3699; 5921 Owensmouth Ave., Woodland Hills, 818.348.1095 $$ Map J12, west of A1

simon L.a. Kerry Simon, Las Vegas’ acclaimed “rock ’n’ roll” chef, brings his fun-loving global cuisine to the Sofitel Los Angeles. Fare ranges from exotic to comfort, and it’s all innovative. Celebrate dessert with Simon’s signature “junk food sampler.” B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.358.3979 $$$ Map I12

LamiLL coFFee boUtiQUe With its retro-chic design, unique coffee service and affordable menu created by acclaimed Providence chef Michael Cimarusti, this is a laid-back, versatile eatery. Tasmanian sea trout with wasabi crème fraîche and hanger steak with watercress velouté are followed by exquisitely presented desserts. B, L, D (daily). 1636 Silverlake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.663.4441 $$ Map W23

the strand hoUse New. This South Bay new-comer with awesome ocean views is sophisticated enough to compete with any restaurant in L.A. County’s hipper parts. House-made charcuterie precedes dishes such as Manila clam pizza and spit-roasted suckling pig. Butterscotch doughnuts end the meal with a bang. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$ Map L13

In the 1920s, Pacific Dining Car was known to close on hot days, the owners tacking a sign to the door that read, “Too D. hot in L.A. Gone Fishing. Why the H don’t you go, too?” (p. 88)

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Dining Grilled wild King salmon from the Strand House in Manhattan Beach

British

(Tu–Su). 211 Palos Verdes Blvd., Redondo Beach, 310.375.4462 $$ Map N13

Rose Tree Cottage Sweet, homey spot for English afternoon tea with gracious service from husband-andwife owners. Seatings at 1, 2:30 and 4 pm. Adjacent gift shop. Tea (T–Su). 801 S. Pasadena Ave., Pasadena, 626.793.3337 $$ Map Q19

hatfield’s Husband-and-wife chef team Quinn and Karen Hatfield combine their talents in the savory and sweet departments, respectively. Guests might dine on Quinn’s reinvented croque madame with yellowtail sashimi, prosciutto and quail egg, or Karen’s heavenly sugar-and-spice beignets. D (nightly). 6703 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.935.2977 $$$ Map I13

waterloo & City Located on an unremarkable strip in Culver City is this surprisingly hip English gastropub dishing out house-made charcuterie, gourmet pizzas topped with Moroccan spiced lamb and slow-braised short rib, and spot-on cocktails. It’s certainly L.A.’s most sophisticated pub grub. D (nightly). 12517 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.391.4222 $$ Map M10 Ye Olde King’s Head Pub/restaurant with cozy dining rooms, fish and chips, high tea, gift shop. B, L, D (daily), high tea (Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8 true food kitchen Restaurant at Santa Monica Place offers health-conscious menu inspired by Dr. Andrew Weil’s diet principles. Several vegan and gluten-free options. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.593.8300 $ Map M8 umami burger Hot specialty burger joint; try the signature Umami Burger with tempura onion rings. (No alcohol served at La Brea Avenue location.) L, D (daily). 4655 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz, 323.669.3922; 1520 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.3100; Fred Segal, 500 Broadway, 310.451.1300; 850 S. La Brea Ave., 323.931.3000; 12159 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.286.9004 $ Map W22, H14, L8, J13, A2 vertical wine bistro Seventy wines by the glass, 650 on the list. New American menu plus fun small plates, cheeses and charcuterie. D (Tu–Su). 70 N. Raymond Ave. (upstairs), Pasadena, 626.795.3999 $$$ Map Q19

Breweries/Gastropubs father’s office Microbrew mecca; one of L.A.’s best burgers. Santa Monica: L (Sa–Su), D (nightly). Culver City: L (F–Su), D (nightly). 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.393.2337; Father’s Office 2, 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.736.2224 $$ Map L8, L11 Ford’s Filling Station Rather than follow his father, Harrison, into the movie business, Benjamin Ford went to culinary school. Entree choices emphasize comfort pub fare: fish and chips, leg of lamb and a popular Maytag blue-cheese-topped burger. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 9531 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.1470 $$ Map L11 Kings row gastropub Pub staples such as shepherd’s pie get a gourmet update; there are also creative fusion dishes (e.g. duck confit bánh mì). Br (Su), L (Th–Sa), D (nightly). 20 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.793.3010 $$ Map Q19 lazy ox canteen With winning dishes such as crispy pig ear chicarrónes, and ricotta fritters drizzled with saffron honey, Lazy Ox’s gastropub-style offerings are always interesting. Myriad daily specials might include chef Josef Centeno’s gyro/taco, the bäco. Br (Sa– Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 241 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.626.5299 $$ Map H17 public kitchen & Bar New. Meat-heavy but still refined menu includes chicken liver terrine with strawberry-rhubarb marmalade sweetbreads, crispy oxtail galette with poached egg; bar serves cured meats, cheeses and cocktails. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 $$$ Map G13

California Cuisine AKASHA Chef-owner Akasha Richmond takes ecoconsciousness to new heights with sustainable décor and organic food ingredients “whenever possible.” The menu of comfort food includes humanely raised meats (e.g. Niman Ranch burgers), but Richmond also does intriguing vegetarian plates. B (M–Sa), L (M–F), D (nightly). 9543 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.845.1700 $$ Map L11 Breeze Creative “grill cuisine,” plus sushi bar. Fabulous desserts; distinctive décor. Reservation recommended. B, L, D (daily). Hyatt Regency Century Plaza Hotel & Spa, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.551.3334 $$$ Map J11 Chaya The original Chaya in Japan remains open after 385 years, and Chaya’s popularity endures in Los Angeles, too. The Japanese-accented French/Italian menus are accomplished and innovative. Downtown: L (M–F), D (nightly). Beverly Hills, Venice: L (M–F), D (nightly). 8741 Alden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.8833; 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.236.9577; 110 Navy St., Venice, 310.396.1179 $$ Map I11, H16, M8 Chinois on Main The Asian-French cuisine at Chinois on Main, arguably Wolfgang Puck’s most exciting restaurant, still impresses. The design is loud—ditto the decibel level—but the relative discomfort hardly detracts from dishes such as Cantonese duck and whole gingerstuffed catfish. L (W–F), D (nightly). 2709 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.9025 $$$ Map M8 Eva restaurant Patina Group alum Mark Gold graciously serves creative, affordable Cal fare in intimate dining room. Family-style, prix fixe dinner on Sundays. Br (Su), L (F), D (Tu–Su). 7458 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.634.0700 $$ Map I13 farmshop Cheery bakery and restaurant with a killer brunch. Try salmon rillettes with caper berries and toasted rye, or decadent French toast topped with crushed berries and pistachios. Family-style dinners. B, L (M–F), Br (Sa–Su). Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.566.2400 $$ Map K8

Joe’s Boisterous benchmark of Cal cuisine is an Abbot Kinney classic. Nicely edited menu with notable desserts. Br (Sa–Su), L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.399.5811 $$$ Map M9 mar’sel Sustainable menu with produce and herbs from chef’s on-site garden. Overlooks sparkling peninsula. D (W–Su). Terranea Resort, 100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes, 310.265.2836 $$$$ Map O13 michael’s Michael McCarty’s influential restaurant, opened in 1979, endures. Enjoy Liberty Farms duck confit or butter-poached monkfish on the breezy patio. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843 $$$ Map L8 palate food + Wine Glendale goes gourmet at this Cal-Med bistro, featuring top-notch selection of wine and artisanal cheeses; wine bar and wine shop. L (F), D (nightly). 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 818.662.9463 $$ Map southeast of T23 Parkway Grill Handsome dining room; one of Pasadena’s best restaurants. Diverse menu includes tiger shrimp corndogs, prosciutto-and-arugula pizza, duck breast with cherry reduction. L (M–F), D (nightly). 510 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, 626.795.1001 $$$ Map N16 Polo Lounge Legendary celeb watering hole. McCarthy salad is a perennial favorite; great people watching. B, L, D (daily), Br (Su). Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.887.2777 $$$ Map I11 Restaurant at the Getty Center Chic room, spectacular views of the Santa Monica Mountains and progressive fare at the hilltop museum. Br (Su), L (Tu–Sa), D (Sa). 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.6810 $$$ Map H9 Spago Beverly Hills Whether you go for pizza and stargazing or for a multicourse feast, dining at Wolfgang Puck’s flagship is always a treat. White truffle-topped pizza might precede Cantonese-style roasted duck, capped off with Austrian kaiserschmarrn for dessert. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$ Map I11 THE tasting kitchen Loud, but lovely. Hipster foodies come for the daily changing menu of innovative yet unpretentious cuisine: Small or large plates of cured meats, artisan cheeses, vegetables, seafood and pastas. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644 $$$ Map M9

fig restaurant Chef Ray Garcia, ex–French Laundry, crafts a seasonal menu of bistro fare; trendy charcuterie bar. Br (Su), B, L (daily), D (Tu–Sa). Fairmont Miramar Hotel, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.319.3111 $$ Map L8

tavern Chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs or grilled halibut with wild chanterelles. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9

Geoffrey’s Prettiest patio in paradise? Offers 180-degree Pacific views; creative seafood. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 27400 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.457.1519 $$$ Map northwest of K7

208 Rodeo Café spills onto cobblestone via at luxe Two Rodeo. A gem. Pan-Asian, French influences. B, L, D (daily). Two Rodeo, 208 Via Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.2428 $$ Map J11

Gina Lee’s Bistro Unassuming but daring Cal-Asian eatery is among the South Bay’s best. D

vu California cuisine gets the molecular gastronomy treatment. Panoramic views of the glittering marina.

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Dining B, L, D (daily). 14160 Palawan Way, Marina del Rey, 310.439.3033 $$$ Map N9 westside tavern Chef Warren Schwartz does rustic Cal fare. Creamy chicken-liver mousse, excellent cocktails. Below Landmark Theatres. L, D (daily). Westside Pavilion, 10850 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.470.1539 $$ Map K10

Chinese cbs seaFood Fine dim sum in a setting not quite so huge as others in Chinatown or Monterey Park. B, L, D (daily). 700 N. Spring St., Chinatown, 213.617.2323 $$ Map G17 mr. chow L.A. edition of sceney restaurants in New York and London. Imperial Beijing cuisine. L (M–F), D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911 $$$ Map I11 new capitaL seaFood A sample of the Chinese cuisine treasures that await in San Gabriel Valley. Dim sum is worth the wait for a table. B, L, D (daily). Focus Plaza, 140 W. Valley Blvd, San Gabriel, 626.288.1899 $ Map B4 ocean seaFood Vast and boisterous spot serves amazing array of traditional dishes, superfresh seafood, top-of-the-line dim sum. B, L, D (daily). 750 N. Hill St., Chinatown, 213.687.3088 $$ Map G17 phiLippe Mr. Chow rival Philippe Chow serves contemporary Chinese in sleek, red-white-and-black space. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.951.1100 $$$ Map I12

Clubs/Supper Clubs First & hope This midcentury-inspired supper club is a favorite for theatergoers and opera lovers who dine before performances at the Music Center, across the street. The menu is American with a Southern touch—think chicken pot pie and crab hushpuppies. Br (Su), L (Tu–F), D (nightly). 710 W. 1st St., downtown, 213.617.8555 $$ Map H16 sUppercLUb International prix fixe menu and dinner show featuring performance artists, dancers and musicians. D (W–Sa). 6675 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.1900 $$$ Map H14 the tar pit Reminiscent of a 1940s supper club, the Tar Pit pairs classic American dishes such as oysters Rockefeller with stiff libations served amid a swanky, streamline setting. Under the direction of Jay Perrin and chef Mark Peel of Campanile, no detail is overlooked. D (nightly). 609 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.965.1300 $$ Map I13

Eclectic/Fusion a-Frame Roy Choi, whose Kogi launched a thousand food trucks, offers a bizarro comfort-food menu (beercan chicken, furikake kettle corn) with Korean influences. List of craft beers and signature cocktails. D (nightly). 12565 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.398.7700 $$ Map M10

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caFe sierra Cal–Continental-Chinese menu, Vegasstyle dinner buffet and entertainment. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). Hilton Universal City, 555 Universal Hollywood Drive, Universal City, 818.509.2030 $$ Map U19 eLements kitchen Seasonal menus feature a handful of key ingredients—for instance, beef, tomato or cabbage—with a variety of interpretations. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 37 S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena, 626.440.0044 $$ Map Q19

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Dining au lait or a full supper. Guests settle in at courtyard tables, enjoying fare such as moules frites and truffle chicken. Br (Su), B, L (Tu–Sa), D (Tu–Su). Palihouse Holloway, 8465 Holloway Drive, West Hollywood, 323.656.4020 $$$ Map H12 kendaLL’s brasserie Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here: fruits de mer, moules frites and braised lamb shank. B, L (daily), D (Tu–Su; M varies). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16

Tabbouleh from Mezze on La Cienega Boulevard

Gordon ramsaY The tyrant from TV’s Hell’s Kitchen arrives in L.A. to demonstrate why he has racked up more than a dozen Michelin stars. The restaurant is a hip setting in which to enjoy eclectically inspired dishes such as duck confit risotto and miso-glazed sablefish. D (nightly). London West Hollywood, 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.7788 $$$$ Map H11 maison akira Fine French cuisine with Japanese flair (such as a bento box with Kobe beef, miso sea bass, foie gras and chawanmushi) in Pasadena’s playhouse district. Eight-course omakase available. Br (Su), L (F), D (Tu–Su). 713 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626.796.9501 $$$ Map Q20 sUsan FeniGer’s street Feniger’s passion for the bold, unexpected flavors of global street food is the central concept at Street. Saag paneer, Ukrainian dumplings and a brioche cheeseburger, perfect for sharing around the outdoor fire pit, have a place on the diverse menu. Br (Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 742 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.203.0500 $$ Map I13

French boUchon The Bouchon bistros from chef Thomas Keller (the French Laundry, Per Se) have become popular for their authentic good looks and superbly executed cuisine. One might begin with salmon rillettes followed by côte de boeuf or a croque madame. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 $$$ Map J11 chUrch & state Located in the historic Biscuit Co. Lofts, this downtown eatery has a hip clientele— downtown residents and commuters waiting out rush hour—who crowd the dining room or linger on the patio to soak up the vibe of an authentic French brasserie. L (M–F), D (nightly). 1850 Industrial St., downtown, 213.405.1434 $$ Map J17 comme Ça Chef David Myers has turned his attention to more casual French fare at this inviting brasserie with a sophisticated modern aesthetic. All the classics are here, including tarte flambé, escargot, coq au vin, bouillabaisse and duck confit. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.1104 $$ Map I12 deLphine Just off the soaring lobby of the chic W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, demure Delphine establishes a laid-back ambience with vintage photo murals and wood barreled ceilings. Chef Sascha Lyon’s entrees include trout meunière with sauteed shrimp and steak frites. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1355 $$$ Map H13 the haLL Located in a charming boutique hotel, the Hall is a relaxed brasserie, attractive for a morning café

La cachette bistro Moderately priced small plates. Risk-taking chef Jean François Meteigner might combine kiwi fruit with pesto or chocolate truffles with sevruga caviar. D (Tu–Su). 1733 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.434.9509 $$ Map M8 the LittLe door For a candlelit dinner in an elegant setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace in one of four intimate, romantic dining areas. D (nightly). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$ Map I12 méLisse At Mélisse, consistently among L.A.’s highestrated restaurants, chef-owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with white-corn ravioli in truffle froth before superb game dishes and selections from a nonpareil cheese cart. D (Tu–Sa). 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$ Map M8

serrano. There’s a wee gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$ Map I16 bUca di beppo Heaping, family-style portions. Call for hours. 80 W. Green St., Pasadena, 626.792.7272; 17500 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.995.3288; 1670 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, 310.540.3246; 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.509.9463; bucadibeppo.com for more locations. $$ Map Q21, A1, M14, U20 capo Restaurateur Bruce Marder’s intimate treasure on the coast, near Santa Monica Pier. Fabulous wine list. D (Tu–Sa). 1810 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.394.5550 $$$$ Map L8 cecconi’s This London-based restaurant caters to a well-heeled clientele who come to schmooze over Bellinis and ciccheti (small plates). Pastas including a beautiful English pea tortelli and seafood such as grilled octopus with capers are well executed. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$ Map I12 cicada This art deco jewel is a perfect specialoccasion spot. Diners enter through magnificent Lalique doors into a room with gold-leaf ceilings and a grand staircase. The modern Italian cooking includes creations such as lamb chops with mini pillows and rosemary mirin sauce. D (varies). 617 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.488.9488 $$$ Map I16

patina The Walt Disney Concert Hall is a winning composition of impressive classical music offerings and fine dining at its in-house restaurant, Patina. Chef Tony Esnault has injected new life into the restaurant, and has a way with rich game dishes. D (Tu–Su). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H17

cULina A contemporary take on regional Italian cuisine is the theme at Culina, where ample coastal inspirations are evident on the menu. The modern design includes a sleek crudo bar and an impressive 25-foot chandelier. B, L (M–Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$ Map J12

petrossian Chef Giselle Wellman works with the brand’s signature caviar in creative ways. Highlights include caviar- and roe-topped blinis, vanilla panna cotta with espresso “caviar” (actually tapioca). B, L (daily), D (M–Sa). 321 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.271.6300 $$$ Map J12

dominick’s Retro Rat Pack vibe inside, airy brick patio with herb garden outside. Intriguing takes on the old favorites: goat cheese ravioli with corn broda and chive blossoms, wood-grilled burger with crispy speck and burrata. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 8715 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.2335 $$ Map I12

Indian

draGo The first restaurant in the Drago dining dynasty features dishes from Celestino Drago’s native Sicily. L (M–F), D (nightly). 2628 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.828.1585 $$$$ Map K8

akbar cUisine oF india Extensive menu of Northern Indian fare. Santa Monica location is most stylish. L (M–F), D (nightly). 44 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.577.9916; 2627 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.586.7469; 3115 Washington Blvd., Marina del Rey, 310.574.0666; 1101 Aviation Blvd., Hermosa Beach, 310.937.3800 $ Map Q19, K9, N9, L13 tanzore This sleek, modern restaurant takes Indian cuisine to a whole new level, with lighter technique, seasonal California ingredients and modern presentation in a dramatic dining room. The fare includes items such as seared tuna with toasted coriander atop avocado raita. Br (Su), L, D (daily). 50 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.3894 $$$ Map J12

Italian anGeLini osteria Hardly elegant or romantic, this is nonetheless one of L.A.’s premier Italian restaurants. Chef-owner Gino Angelini demonstrates remarkable range and finesse, from sea-salt-crusted whole branzino to the heavenly lasagna in herb sauce he inherited from his grandmother. L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 7313 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.297.0070 $$$ Map I13 botteGa LoUie This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in minimalist white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals and downtown hipsters convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas and share small plates of shaved fennel with sweet onions or jambón

draGo centro Deftly executed Italian fare—garganelli with pork sausage and fennel seeds, parmesancrusted chicken with farro—and extensive wine list in a more contemporary space than Drago. L (M–F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$ Map H16 Firenze osteria Top Chef’s Fabio Viviani does northern Italian comfort food. Dozens of martinis on the menu. L (M–F), D (nightly). 4212 Lankershim Blvd., Toluca Lake, 818.760.7081 $$ Map T19 iL cieLo Frolicking cherubs, 50,000 twinkling lights, flowered courtyard with retractable glass roof. 1,400 couples have married here. Even the food is romantic. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 9018 Burton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.9990 $$$ Map I11 iL Fornaio Trattoria-style favorites; adjoining bakeries offer pastries, sandwiches to take out. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily). Manhattan Beach: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Santa Monica: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Pasadena: Br (Su), L, D (daily). 301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330; 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555; 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.7800; 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797 $$ Map J11, L13, L8, Q19 iL Grano Elegant Il Grano has emerged as one of L.A.’s finest Italian restaurants. Its menu emphasizes

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Dining superb seafood, from crudo—sashimi-grade raw dishes—to squid-ink pasta with sea urchin sauce. The wine program matches the high standards of the kitchen. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 11359 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A., 310.477.7886 $$$ Map K9 IL SOLE Intimate trattoria lures A-listers and neighborhood folks alike. A makeover courtesy of entrepreneur Brent Bolthouse lends a trendy, loungelike ambience. D (nightly). 8741 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.1182 $$$$ Map H12 La vEcchIa Rustic Northern Italian in a laid-back bistro. More than a dozen pastas for dinner, plus pizzas, ossobuco alla Romana and other traditional favorites. L, D (daily). 2654 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.7979 $$ Map M8 mattEO’S An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures. Burrata campana salad, PEI mussels in white wine, ossobuco Milanese. D (Tu–Su). 2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$ Map K10 OStERIa mOZZa Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton teamed up with affable Mario Batali on Mozza’s duo of contemporary Italian restaurants. Osteria Mozza is a more sophisticated dining room in which to experience the repertory of these great transcontinental talents. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13 papaRaZZI RIStORantE Contemporary Italian, steaks and comforting sides. D (M–Sa). Sheraton Gateway Hotel, 6101 Century Blvd., Westchester, 310.642.4820 $$ Map O11 pIccOLO Eatery a block from the beach. Six-course seasonal tasting menu, monthly “reversal dinners” with chosen wines paired to dishes. D (nightly). 5 Dudley Ave., Venice, 310.314.3222 $$$ Map M8 pIZZERIa mOZZa The other half of Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza is a more relaxed dining experience, and it’s far easier to get a table than at its sibling, Osteria Mozza, next door. It features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates, and rustic daily specials. L, D (daily). 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101 $$ Map H13

ScaRpEtta Scott Conant’s much-lauded NYC-based concept is replicated at the Montage Beverly Hills hotel. Conant is deservedly famous for dishes such as duckand-foie-gras ravioli as well as a simple, unbeatable spaghetti with tomato and basil. Br (Su), L, D (daily). 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7970 $$$ Map I11

RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

SOttO New. Contemporary southern Italian in a subterranean space. Start with the blistered Little Gem lettuce with breadcrumbs and aged caprino sardo; move on to whole grilled orata or house-made casarecce with soft-boiled egg and lamb ragù. A half-dozen pizzas, too. L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0210 $$$ Map J11 thE StInkIng ROSE “We season our garlic with food,” from Gartini cocktail to garlic ice cream. 40-Clove Garlic Chicken, Silence of the Lamb Shank. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12

3 completely unique experiences under one roof!

tRa dI nOI Mainstay restaurant at the Malibu Country Mart; pastas made in-house daily. L, D (daily). 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.0169 $$$ Map K7

6801 HOLLYWOOD BLVD, LOS ANGELES 323.464.4000 ROLLINGSTONELA.COM

vaLEntInO For more than 30 years, Piero Selvaggio has maintained his flagship’s status as a preeminent temple of Italian gastronomy. A telephone-book-sized wine list—often cited as America’s best—is supported by a cellar containing more than 100,000 bottles. L (F), D (Tu–Sa). 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313 $$$$ Map L9

RESTAURANT | LOUNGE | B-SIDE

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Dining

R23 Gem hidden among warehouses in the Arts District serves excellent sushi. Contemporary art and Frank Gehry-designed décor lend a hip vibe. L (M–F), D (nightly). 923 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.687.7178 $$$ Map I17

Jalea mixta at Picca in West L.A.

Vincenti Ristorante Trattoria with exhibition kitchen turns out Northern Italian specialties from a wood-burning oven. Upscale pizza menu on Mondays. L (F), D (M–Sa). 11930 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.0127 $$ Map J9

Japanese aburiya toranoko Sushi and izakaya. Noodles, sumiyaki; daring fare such as miso-marinated beef tongue, and snow crab and jellyfish with cucumber sunomono. L, D (daily). 243 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.621.9500 $$ Map H17 ASANEBO Hidden in a minimall but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi, seared toro in garlic cream and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu–F), D (Tu-Su). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 $$ Map A1

SUGARFISH Kazunori Nozawa—aka the “Sushi Nazi,” chef/owner of Studio City’s famed Sushi Nozawa— opens a cheery, casual spot offering preset menus. Tips are included, but prices are about half those at the original. L, D (daily). 47221/4 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.306.6300; 11640 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.820.4477; 600 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.627.3000; 1345 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.393.3338 $$ Map N9, K9, I16, L8 Sushi Nozawa Chef’s choice only (omakase) at renowned sushi bar. Low on ambience, high on quality and authenticity. L, D (M–F). 11288 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.508.7017 $$$ Map G12 Sushi Roku Nouvelle Japanese, sleek décor. Creative menu includes albacore tacos, salmon sashimi with black truffles shaved tableside. L.A.: L (M–Sa), D (nightly); Santa Monica and Pasadena: L, D (daily). 8445 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.6767; 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map I12, L8, Q19 sushi sasabune Don’t ask for a California or spicy tuna roll—you’ll be swiftly denied—but do expect incredibly fresh, authentically prepared sushi. The impressive omakase is recommended. L (M–F), D (M– Sa). 12400 Wilshire Blvd., West L.A., 310.820.3596 $$$$ Map K9

Benihana This restaurant sees teppanyaki chefs slicing and dicing at each table and grilling up simple fare such as tender steak and chicken, savory vegetables, and shrimp and lobster, which is delivered sizzling to diners’ plates. Encino: L (Su–F), D (nightly). Beverly Hills: L, D (daily). Torrance: L, D (daily). Santa Monica: L, D (daily). 38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.655.7311; 1447 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1423; Encino, 818.788.7121; Torrance, 310.316.7777 $$ Map I12, L8, G9, M14

TAKAMI SUSHI & ROBATA Takami occupies the 21st floor of a downtown high-rise, and its wraparound veranda enhances the illusion of floating in air. Dine at the sushi bar or the robata bar, where skewers of seafood, vegetables and meats are grilled. L (M–F), D (nightly). 811 Wilshire Blvd., 21st floor, downtown, 213.236.9600 $$ Map I16

Katana Robata-style cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood on skewers. Stylish rooms, patio. D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 $$$ Map H12

Urasawa If you’re serious about sushi, make a date to sit at the maple bar of Urasawa. Here you’ll be treated to an incredible omakase dinner—don’t even ask about price—that features the freshest, most artfully presented sushi, sashimi and shabu-shabu dishes. D (Tu–Sa). 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.247.8939 $$$$ Map I11

Katsuya Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck. From signature cocktails to king crab cooked over the robata grill to exotically flavored crème brûlées, Katsuya is never boring. L (varies by location), D (nightly). Downtown: D (Tu–Su). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.747.9797 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15 Katsu-ya Top sushi bar along the Valley’s Sushi Row; no-frills décor. Expect a crowd. Studio City: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Encino: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 11680 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.985.6976; 16542 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.788.2396 $$ Map U18, A1 Matsuhisa Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s more modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. Foie gras sushi, gold-leaf-wrapped monkfish liver, yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño are just a few of his dazzling creations. L (M–F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12

Korean chosun galbee Korean barbecue restaurant offers a more upscale ambience than most, with an elegant open-air patio. L, D (daily) 3330 W. Olympic Blvd., Koreatown, 323.734.3330 $$$ Map Seoul Jung Traditional Korean barbecue and hot pot specialties prepared at your table. L (M–F), D (nightly). Wilshire Grand Hotel, 930 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.688.7880 $$$ Map H16 soot bull jeep One of K-Town’s best, with all manner of savory meats cooked on tabletop grills. L, D (daily). 3136 W. 8th St., Koreatown, 213.387.3865 $$ Map east of J14

Mediterranean AOC Explore a Mediterranean-inspired menu at the eatery that pioneered two L.A. culinary trends: the smallplates format and the wine bar. Chef-owner Suzanne

Goin offers addictive Parmesan-stuffed dates and an excellent selection of cheeses and cured meats from a charcuterie bar. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 8022 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.653.6359 $$ Map I12 barbrix Of the small-plate eateries, this restaurant, in a converted schoolhouse, is one of the best. Solo diners eat at the bar while couples relax on a charming patio and revelers toast near an exhibition kitchen. Among the standouts are pappardelle with guinea hen ragú. D (nightly). 2442 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323.662.2442 $$$ Map east of W23 Campanile Chef-owner Mark Peel’s first restaurant is an enduring L.A. favorite. Peel offers such starters as beer-battered soft-shell crab, followed by grilled prime rib. Go on Thursday nights for a sampling of gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.938.1447 $$$ Map J13 cleo The SBE group’s noisy mezze bar is an unquestionable high point of the Hollywood dining scene. Chef Daniel Elmaleh’s eastern and southern Mediterranean small plates include kebabs of pork belly and blood sausage, wood-burned flatbreads and crispy brussels sprouts. Cocktails are expensive but irresistible. D (nightly). The Redbury, 1717 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.962.1711 $$$ Map H14 fig & Olive New York-based restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil: gorgonzola jamón ibérico ravioli drizzled with porcini olive oil, grilled branzino glazed with fig and picholine olive oil. Champagne bar upstairs; retail component. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 8490 Melrose Place, L.A., 310.360.9100 $$$ Map I12 FRAÎCHE The Culver City culinary phenomenon was accelerated with the addition of stylish Fraîche. The menu offers rustic flavors from the French and Italian countrysides, such as handcrafted salumi and charcuterie and passatelli in brodo with chanterelles. Culver City: Br (Sa–Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Santa Monica: L (M–F), D (nightly). 9411 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.839.6800; 312 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.7482 $$$ Map L11, L8 GJELINA Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett, hipster servers in T-shirts and newsboy caps serve seasonal Cal-Med small plates and pizzas to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s most lively patio. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9 Lucques Chef-owner Suzanne Goin delivers the next generation of California cuisine, which includes dishes such as fried squid salad with lipstick peppers and Thai basil, and pork belly with trumpet mushrooms and mustard greens. Nowhere do vegetables taste as good! L (Tu–Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13 mezze Mediterranean and Middle Eastern small plates. Signature dishes are yellowtail crudo with toasted pine nuts and cherry gremolata, and flatbreads topped with merguez sausage and tomato jam. D (M–Sa). 401 La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.657.4103 $$$ Map I12 PETROS Fine contemporary Greek fare in a cool white dining room or on the covered patio. Dress code for indoor diners. L, D (daily). 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.4100 $$$ Map L13 ray’s & Stark bar Petite, Renzo Piano–designed eatery at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Contemporary Med-inspired cuisine including vegetables cooked in wood-burning oven. Adjacent Stark Bar offers designer cocktails on an outdoor patio. L, D (Th–Tu). 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6180 $$ Map J13

cathy chaplin

NOBU The glitzy flagship of Nobu Matsuhisa attracts celebrities as well as serious foodies. An extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi includes many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents. Sakes and omakase feasts result in soaring tabs, but the cuisine measures up. D (nightly). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12

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Dining

Rose Tree Cottage A Regal English Afternoon Tea by reservation

Exclusively British Ñ Barbour Clothing • AGA Cookers • Teas • Foods • China

801 S. Pasadena Ave. • Pasadena

626-793-3337

•

www.rosetreecottage.com

YE OLDE KING'S HEAD

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant & Shoppe

Mexican/Latin Border Grill At Border Grill, chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger combine their unabashed love for Mexico’s market vendors, home cooks and taco stands. The result: bold, fresh and innovative Mexican cuisine. The downtown location offers a free shuttle to L.A. Live and the Music Center. Santa Monica: Tu–Su. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Downtown: L (M–F), D (nightly). 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.451.1655; 445 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.486.5171 $$ Map L8, H16 1810 An eclectic menu features specialties from the Americas and Italy—everything from Argentine sausage to sauteed zucchini, plus some reasonably priced steaks—in casual, brick-clad environs. L, D (daily). 121 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.795.5658 $$ Map Q20 la Serenata de GariBaldi La Serenata is an eye-opener for diners used to consuming clichéd TexMex cooking. Discover the sophistication of Mexican cuisine with dishes such as scallops with Mexican mustard sauce and black beans. West L.A.: B (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). East L.A.: B (Su), L, D (daily). 10924 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.441.9667; 1842 E. 1st St., Boyle Heights, 323.265.2887 $$ Map L8, K10, east of H17 malo Más Malo combines architectural splendor— it’s in a restored 1920s building—with 21st-century, Mexico City-meets-L.A. décor and cuisine. The original Malo in Silver Lake is less glam, but also hip. Malo: Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). Más Malo: Br (Sa-Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 4326 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.664.1011; 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.985.4332 $$ Map south of W23, I16

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips. Open for breakfast weekends at 8am, Fabulous happy hour Mon–Fri 4-7pm. Traditional Afternoon Tea is served Saturdays 2-5pm. Karaoke Sundays at 9pm. Heated patio. Quiz shows every Wednesday. Call for soccer schedule.

picca New. Ricardo Zarate’s second Peruvian restaurant has grander ambitions, with a more dressed-up dining room and larger menu featuring small plates of ceviches, tiraditos, anticuchos, Peruvian-style sushi. Mezzanine bar serves pisco cocktails. D (M–Sa). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0133 $$ Map J11

Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, cheese and much more.

playa “Urban Latin” small plates from chef John Sedlar. Tapas include maize cakes with fillings such as shrimp, Napa cabbage and mustard ice cream; flower-inlaid tortillas are a Sedlar signature. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.933.5300 $$ Map I13

11 6 S a n t a M o n i c a B l v d .

red o Rick Bayless, one of the leading authorities on Mexican cuisine in America, is consulting chef at this sexy, transporting Melrose eatery. Many of his thoughtful dishes are grounded in tradition, such as Pacific sole and Mazatlan blue shrimp ceviches and cochinita pibil. Br (Su), D (nightly). 8155 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.5009 $$$ Map I12

( 3 1 0) 4 5 1 -14 0 2

w w w.y e o l d e k i n g s h e a d. c o m

Authentic Thai Chinese and Sushi Bar Dining & Outdoor Patio

rivera Chef John Sedlar showcases his flair for pan-Latin flavors and attention to detail; consider the housemade nixtamal tortillas inlaid with edible flowers or plates with designs stenciled in spices. A pioneer of the cocktail movement, Rivera has an unbeatable tequila bar. L (M–F), D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I16 taBerna mexicana New. Chef Alex Padilla’s Mexican cooking draws on his classic training, resulting in dishes such as pumpkin-seed-crusted scallops, mole-rubbed prime rib and interesting build-your-own tacos in a swanky space off Rodeo Drive. L, D (daily). 369 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.858.7070 $$ Map J11

Pan-Asian 1333 3rd St. Promenade Santa Monica

310.260.1994 FAX 310.260.1944

cruStacean A glass-covered koi-filled stream meanders under the bar at this Cal-Vietnamese eatery, and diners indulge in items from a “secret kitchen” in which

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Dining Dish embellished with edible flowers at Red Medicine in Beverly Hills

ing and drive-through. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 7009 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 800.786.1000 and 10 other locations $ Map H13 m caFÉ de chaYa Macrobiotic cuisine that actually tastes good. Oh-so-L.A.! B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 7119 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.525.0588; 9433 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.858.8459 $ Map H13, J11 philippe the original Purported birthplace of French dip sandwich is low on ambience, but this gritty cafeteria is an L.A. institution, established in 1908. Try the 9-cent coffee. Cash only. B, L, D (daily). 1001 N. Alameda St., downtown, 213.628.3781 $ Map G17 pink’s hot dogs There’s a perpetual queue in front of this hot dog stand, open since 1939, which serves 30 kinds of dogs and chili cheeseburgers, too. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 709 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4223 $ Map I13

only the owners’ family members are allowed. The garlic noodles are a signature. L (M–F), D (nightly). 9646 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990 $$$ Map I11 lukshon Sang Yoon of Father’s Office opens a slick Southeast Asian eatery with a selection of craft beers and Far East-inspired cocktail program. D (M– Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12 red medicine The progressive Vietnamese restaurant doesn’t hew to traditions, but the results are intriguing—and visually delicious—presentations. The menu also includes some Pan-Asian dishes such as chicken dumplings, green papaya salad and lamb belly with hoisin sauce. Open late. D (nightly). 8400 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.651.5500 $$$ Map J12 the spice table New. Dishes inspired by Singaporean and Vietnamese traditions: satays, noodle soups, clay pot catfish, grilled or wood-burned vegetables. L, D (M–Sa). 114 S. Central Ave., Little Tokyo, 213.620.1840 $$ Map H17 wp24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. The restaurant might offer downtown’s best skyline views. Highlights include “Not Too Classic” hot and sour soup and steamed bao filled with foie gras. D (M–Sa). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15

tender greens Cafeterialike concept serves tasty salads and comforting “hot plates” with proteins, greens and buttery mashed potatoes. L, D (daily). 9523 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.842.8300; 8759 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.1919; 6290 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323.382.0380 $ Map L11, I12, H14 the veggie grill Cheery, fast-casual vegan restaurant that even carnivores can enjoy. Soy- and gluten-free options. L, D (daily). 8000 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.822.7575; 2025 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.1155; Plaza El Segundo, 720 Allied Way, El Segundo, 310.535.0025; Rolling Hills Plaza, 2533 Pacific Coast Hwy., Torrance, 310.325.6689 $ Map H12, L8, C2, N14 wurstkÜche Don’t even try to pronounce it—”the sausage place” will do. Arts District bar/restaurant offers thick-cut Belgian fries and a repertory of exotic franks: rattlesnake and rabbit, alligator and pork andouille. Open late. L, D (daily). 800 E. 3rd St., downtown; 625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice. 213.687.4444 $ Map I17, M9

Seafood blue plate oYsterette Oceanfront cafe offers a very respectable lobster roll (served with mayo or butter) and other New England specialties. L, D (daily). 1355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 $$ Map L8

Yamashiro This restaurant occupies a replica of a Kyoto palace with a garden court and city views, making it special before you even look at the menu. Cal-Asian fare includes miso salmon with lemon mashed potatoes and sweet-and-spicy shrimp. D (nightly). 1999 N. Sycamore Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.5125 $$$ Map G13

chart house These restaurants offer seafood and chophouse fare in seaside settings. In addition to newer menu items—a crab, avocado and mango stack, snapper Hemingway—are old favorites including slowroasted prime rib and chocolate lava cake. L (call for hours), D (nightly). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.9321; 13950 Panay Way, Marina del Rey, 310.822.4144; 231 Yacht Club Way, Redondo Beach, 310.372.3464 $$ Map west of K7, N9, M13

Yangtze This contemporary Southeast Asian restaurant offers Thai, Chinese, Korean and Japanese cuisines amid contemporary art-filled décor. People-watch on the patio while enjoying sushi, spicy Thai noodles, curries and Jingmen harvest, an assortment of Chinese vegetables. L, D (daily). 1333 Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.260.1994 $ Map L8

duke’s malibu Named after the father of international surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, this oceanfront restaurant captures the spirit of aloha. Not to be outshone by the spectacular views is the cuisine, which features a daily selection of fresh fish and tropical cocktails. Br (Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 21150 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.0777 $$ Map west of K7

Quick Bites

gladstone’s malibu One of SoCal’s biggest hits with a million visitors each year. Dramatic ocean views. B (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.454.3474 $$ Map west of K7

the apple pan Move quickly to grab a seat at the counter of this tiny joint, open since 1927. Burger aficionados wax on about the classic, drippy Steakburger and Hickoryburger. Cash only. Open late. L, D (Tu–Su). 10801 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.475.3585 $ Map K10 in-n-out SoCal’s iconic burgers, cooked to order—try the off-menu “animal style”—plus fries and shakes. Seat-

the hungrY cat East Coast fare in hip little spots. Dungeness crab benedict; you-peel or they-peel shrimp by the half-pound. Hollywood: Br (Sa–Su), L (Tu–F), D (nightly); Santa Monica: D (nightly). Sunset+Vine, 1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.462.2155; 100 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.459.3337 $$ Map H14, L7

the lobster Enjoy a view of the Pacific while indulging in superlative seafood from this Santa Monica Pieradjacent restaurant. The outdoor patio is most coveted for sampling the eponymous crustacean in various iterations. Chef Collin Crannell does a fine job with other seafood dishes, too. L, D (daily). 1602 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.9294 $$$ Map L8 mccormick & schmick’s Classy wood, glass and brass space; seafood any way you like it. Happy hour. L (varies by location), D (nightly). 206 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.0434; 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.405.0064; 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.629.1929; 2101 Rosecrans Ave., El Segundo, 310.416.1123; 3500 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.260.0505 $$ Map Q19, I11, H16, L13, T20 parkers’ lighthouse This casually elegant restaurant’s waterfront location affords 360-degree views of Long Beach Harbor. Menu offerings include a wide selection of seafood—stuffed Atlantic salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, inventive sushi—plus traditional chophouse fare such as USDA Prime steaks. L, D (daily). 435 Shoreline Village Drive, Long Beach, 562.432.6500 $$ Map N16 providence Chef-owner Michael Cimarusti transforms seafood from the world’s most pristine waters into inventive dishes such as kampachi with miso, buttermilk and green grapes, and striped bass with bacon and Bordelaise sauce. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14 roY’s Chef Roy Yamaguchi began cooking his innovative Pacific Rim cuisine in L.A. many years ago, well ahead of his time. He returns as a superstar, with a chain of contemporary Hawaiian-inspired restaurants. D (nightly). Downtown: L (M–F), D (nightly). 800 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.488.4994; 6363 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.888.4801; 641 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.356.4066 $$$ Map I16, west of A1, Q21 son oF a gun New. Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates such as salmon collar, miniature lobster rolls and shrimp toast sandwiches in a nautically themed space. D (nightly). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12 water grill Downtown’s premier seafood restaurant is famed for its huge platters of fruits de mer from the oyster bar. Low-temperature cooking methods are used in dishes such as sauteed Columbia River sturgeon, yielding sensational results. There’s no corkage fee, so why not BYOB? L (M–F), D (nightly). 544 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.891.0900 $$$$ Map H16

Spanish bar pintXo Prominent California chef Joe Miller (Joe’s) offers authentic tortilla Española, bacalao and croquetas de jamón and Spanish wines. L, D (daily). 109 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.458.2012 $$$ Map M8 the bazaar bY JosÉ andrÉs Star chef José Andrés brings whimsical set of Spanish-style dining experiences to the eminently stylish SLS Hotel. Cuisine ranges from rustic fare to the molecular gastronomy creations that have made Spain a culinary leader. Tasting room Saam offers an unforgettable 22-course prix fixe menu. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$ Map H16 caFe sevilla Authentic Spanish fare and tapas bar on a bustling strip in downtown Long Beach. Dinner show on Saturdays; nightclub upstairs. D (nightly). 140 Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.1111 $$ Map N16

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Dining Cobras & Matadors Tops for tapas. Tortilla española, albondigas (meatballs). It’s BYOB; pick up a bottle at Erewhon market across the street. D (nightly). 7615 W. Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.932.6178 $$ Map J13 PrIMItIVo WINE bIstro Fun tapas, extensive wine list and festive vibe. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 1025 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.396.5353 $$$ Map M9

Steak arNIE MortoN’s of ChICago Clubby ambience, show-and-tell menu, huge portions. L (M–F), D (nightly). 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.553.4566; The Pinnacle, 3400 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.238.0424 $$$ Map I16, T20 arroyo ChoPhousE Exclusively USDA Prime at handsome spot. D (nightly). 536 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, 626.577.7463 $$$$ Map R20 bLt stEaK This winning formula on the Sunset Strip proves that the French bistro and the American steakhouse can be seamlessly blended. After appetizers such as tuna tartare or the complimentary Gruyère cheese popovers, steaks are the main attraction, ranging from ultrapricey Kobe to domestic Angus beef. D (Tu– Sa). 8720 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.1950 $$$$ Map H12 boa Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails. Santa Monica: L, D (daily); West Hollywood: L (M–F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H11 CuLturE 22 Food Network star Rahm Fama (Meat & Potatoes) opens a slick contemporary steakhouse with a chic raw bar. Cocktails include a Bloody Mary spiked with Sriracha sauce. L, D (daily). 45 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.8888 $$$ Map Q19 Cut A collaboration between Getty Center architect Richard Meier and celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck, Cut is the place to savor genuine Kobe beef steaks ($120-plus) or dry-aged Nebraska beef. Puck’s menu is short on nostalgia but long on flavor. D (M–Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 $$$$ Map J11 fogo dE Chão The city’s best churrascaria—those Brazilian steakhouse-barbecue restaurants—is this restaurant with muraled walls and soaring ceilings. After a trip to a massive salad-appetizer bar, guests are treated to an endless procession of meats carved right onto their plates. L (M–F), D (nightly). 133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.289.7755 $$$ Map J12 thE grILL oN thE aLLEy The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where the maître d’ juggles Hollywood heavyweights, each demanding his favorite table for deal-making lunches. Polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and chicken pot pies in a dining room with classic good looks. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; The Grill on Hollywood, Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.856.5530; 120 E. Promenade Way, Thousand Oaks, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, H13, north of A10 L.a. PrIME Dine in high style 35 floors up. Aged USDA certified Prime beef from Chicago. D (nightly). Westin Bonaventure, 404 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.624.1000 $$$ Map H16 LaWry’s thE PrIME rIb A Restaurant Row classic. Prime rib, to-die-for creamed corn and spinach served with showmanship from table-side carts. D (nightly). 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.2827 $$$ Map I12

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Dining Mastro’s steakhouse Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in-filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. D (nightly). 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 $$$ Map J11 Nick & stef’s A modern interpretation of the classic American steakhouse, Nick & Stef’s offers architecturally exciting dining rooms and a wraparound patio lounge that’s a favorite of downtown workers waiting out traffic. USDA Prime beef is aged on-site in a glass-encased aging chamber. L (M–F), D (nightly). Wells Fargo Building, 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330 $$$ Map H16 Pacific DiNiNg car Filet mignon at 3 am? It can be had at L.A.’s grandest 24-hour eatery, open since 1921. B, L, D (daily). 1310 W. 6th St., downtown, 213.483.6000; 2700 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.4000 $$$ Map H16, K8 queeNsview steakhouse High-end steaks and seafood, libations and live music above Parkers’ Lighthouse. D (Th–Sa). 435 Shoreline Drive, Long Beach, 562.432.6500 $$$$ Map D3 ruth’s chris steak house Ruth’s Chris Steak House serves superfine Midwestern corn-fed beef, broiled in 1,800-degree ovens and served sizzling on 500-degree plates. Although steak is king, the menu also includes expertly executed seafood, lamb, pork and poultry dishes. L (varies), D (nightly). 224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.8744; 369 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.583.8122 $$$ Map I11, Q20 stk Sultry steakhouse for the young crowd, with fun appetizers such as shrimp “rice krispies” and Wagyu beef sliders. Open-air lounge with DJ. D (nightly). 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.659.3535 $$$$ Map I12 woLfgaNg’s steakhouse Chef Wolfgang Zwiener opens outpost of his New York steakhouse. Try the dry-aged porterhouse steak for two, three or four. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 445 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0640 $$$$ Map J11

Thai chaN Dara Traditional specialties. L, D (daily). 11940 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.479.4461; 1511 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.8585; House of Chan Dara, 310 N. Larchmont Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.1052 $$ Map L10, H14, I14 NataLee thai Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern décor. Among entrees are Nutty Chicken (a spicy combo of chicken, onion and dried chili) and a whole pompano in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, I11 PaLMs thai This spot near the Pantages Theater is more known for its entertainment than its cooking, but both are worth the trip. Kavee Thongprecha, “the Thai Elvis,” does campy interpretations of the King’s repertory. Unusual menu items include frog legs with chili and basil. L, D (daily). 5900 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.462.5073 $ Map H14 taLÉsai Elegant duo of eateries serving refined Thai cuisine). L (M–F), D (nightly). 9043 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724; 9198 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.271.9345 $ Map I12, J11

where?

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Restaurants City Index Our superguide by area, with cross reference to listings by cuisine.

BEVERLY HILLS

FRAÎCHE (Mediterranean)............................................. 84

THE BAZAAR (Spanish).............................................. 86 BLVD (American)................................................................ 78 bouchon (French)....................................................... 82 CHAYA (California)............................................................80 CRUSTACEAN (Pan-Asian)........................................ 85 Culina (Italian)............................................................... 82 CUT (Steak).......................................................................... 87 the grill on the alley (Steak)................ 87 IL CIELO (Italian).............................................................. 82 il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 82 KATE MANTILINI (American)............................... 78 MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak)................... 88 m café de CHAYA (Quick Bites)......................... 86 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood)............ 86 MR. CHOW (Chinese)......................................................81 NATALEE THAI (Thai)................................................ 88 POLO LOUNGE (California).......................................80 RUTH’s CHRIS (Steak)................................................ 88 Scarpetta (Italian).................................................... 83 SPAGO (California)............................................................80 taberna mexicana (Mexica)......................... 85 talésai (Thai)................................................................. 88 208 Rodeo (California)..............................................80 URasawa (Japanese)................................................... 84 wolfgang’s Steakhouse (Steak)......... 88

NATALEE THAI (Thai)................................................ 88 tender greens (Quick Bites)...........................86 Waterloo & City (British)............................. 80

downtown aburiya toranoko (Japanese)..................... 84 arnie morton’s (Steak)...................................... 87 bottega louie (Italian)........................................ 82 cbs seafood (Chinese)............................................81 chaya (California)............................................................80 church & State (French)..................................... 82 cicada (Italian)............................................................... 82 drago centro (Italian)........................................ 82 first & HOPE (Club)....................................................81 katsuya (Japanese)...................................................... 84 kendall’s brasserie (French)..................... 82 L.a. prime (Steak)......................................................... 87 la serenata de garibaldi (Mexican)....... 85 lazy ox canteen (Brew/Pub).........................80 lukshon (Pan-Asian)................................................... 86 más malo (Mexican)................................................... 85 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood)............ 86 nick and stef’s (Steak)...................................... 88 NOÉ (American).................................................................. 78 OCEAN SEAFOOD (Chinese)...................................81

BEVERLY Boulevard 3RD street MELROSE avenue Angelini osteria (Italian). ............................. 82 aoc (Mediterranean)....................................................84 cobras & matadors (Spanish)..................... 87 Comme çA (French)..................................................... 82 eva restaurant (California)...................................80 hatfield’s (California)........................................... 80 jar (American).................................................................... 78 Joan’s on third (American)........................... 78 the little door (French)................................... 82 lucques (Mediterranean)........................................... 84 m café de chaya (Quick Bites)......................... 86 OSTERIA MOZZA (Italian)....................................... 83 philippe (Chinese)...........................................................81 Pizzeria Mozza (Italian)..................................... 83 playa (Latin)..................................................................... 85 providence (Seafood)............................................. 86 red medicine (Pan-Asian)...................................... 86 red o (Mexican)............................................................... 85 Simon L.A. (American)............................................... 78 son of a gun (Seafood)........................................ 86 sushi roku (Japanese)............................................. 84

Brentwood KATSUYA (Japanese)...................................................... 84 sugarfish (Japanese)................................................ 84 TAVERN (California)...................................................... 80 VINCENTI ristorante (Italian)...................... 84

pacific dining car (Steak).............................. 88

café Sevilla (Spanish)........................................86 PARKERs’ LIGHTHOUSE (Seafood).................. 86

MALIBU charlie’s (American).................................................. 78 chart house (Seafood)......................................... 86 duke’s malibu (Seafood)...................................... 86 geoffrey’s (California)............................................80 gladstone’s malibu (Seafood).................... 86 NOBU MALIBU (Japanese)........................................ 84 saddle peak lodge (American)................... 78 tra di noi (Italian)...................................................... 83

chart house (Seafood)......................................... 86 SUGARFISH (Japanese)................................................ 84 vu (California)......................................................................80

pasAdena a/k/a bistro (American)........................................ 78 arROYO CHOPHOUSE (Steak).......................... 87 buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 82 culture 22 (Steak)..................................................... 87 1810 (Latin)........................................................................... 85 elements kitchen (Eclectic)..............................81 il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 82 KATSUYA (Japanese)...................................................... 84 kings row gastroPub (Brew/Pub)..........80 maison akira (Eclectic)......................................... 82 mccormick & schmick’s (Seafood)............ 86 new capital seafood (Chinese)................81 PALATE FOOD + WINE (California)..................80 parkway grill (California)..................................80 rose tree cottage (British)..........................80 the royce (American)............................................... 78 roy’s (Seafood)................................................................. 86 RUTH’s CHRIS (Steak)................................................ 88 sushi roku (Japanese)............................................. 84 vertical wine bistro (American).............80

roy’s (Seafood)................................................................. 86 R23 (Japanese)..................................................................... 84 seoul jung (Korean)................................................ 84 the spice table (Pan-Asian).............................. 86 SUGARFISH (Japanese)................................................ 84 TAKAMI SUSHI (Japanese)........................................ 84 water grill (Seafood)............................................ 86 WP24 (Pan-Asian)............................................................. 86 wurstkuche (Quick Bites)..................................... 86

HOLLYWOOD/EASTSIDE barbrix (Mediterranean)............................................ 84 chan dara (Thai)...................................................... 88 cleo (Mediterranean)...................................................... 84 delphine (French)........................................................ 82 the grill on hollywood (Steak)......... 87 HARD ROCK CAFE (American)............................. 78 the HUNGRY CAT (Seafood)................................. 86 in-n-out (Quick Bites).................................................. 86 KATSUYA (Japanese)...................................................... 84 lamill coffee (American)................................... 78 malo (Mexican)................................................................ 85 MUSSO & FRANK (American)................................. 78 PaLMS THAI (Thai).....................................................88 public kitchen + Bar (Brew/Pub)..............80 rolling stone (American).................................. 78

tender greens (Quick Bites)...........................86

Susan feniger’s street (Eclectic)........... 82 umami burger (American)...................................80 YAMASHIRO (Pan-Asian)............................................ 86

LA BREA/MIDTOWN ANIMAL (American)........................................................ 78 CaMPANILE (Mediterranean)..................................... 84

Culver City

chosun galbee (Korean).................................... 84

a-Frame (Eclectic)...........................................................81 akasha (California).......................................................80 father’s office 2 (Brew/Pub)..................... 80 ford’s filling station (Brew/Pub)..........80

pink’s hot dogs (Quick Bites)........................... 86 ray’s & stark bar (Mediterranean)............... 84 soot bull jeep (Korean)..................................... 84 the tar pit (Club)........................................................81

sushi roku (Japanese)............................................. 84 true food kitchen (American)....................80 VALENTIno (Italian)..................................................... 83 YANGTZE (Pan-Asian)................................................... 86 YE OLDE KING’S HEAD (British).......................80

SOUTH BAY akbar (Indian)................................................................. 82 BENIHANA (Japanese).................................................. 84 buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 82 chart house (Seafood)......................................... 86 GINA LEE’S BISTRO (California)..........................80 il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 82 MAR’SEL (California).......................................................80 m.b. post (American)................................................... 78 mccormick & schmick’s (Seafood)............ 86 PETROS (Mediterranean)............................................... 84 queensview steakhouse (Steak).......... 88 the veggie grill (Quick Bites)......................... 86

UNIVERSAL CITY buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 82 CAFE SIERRA (Eclectic)...............................................81 HARD ROCK CAFE (American)............................. 78

MArina del rey

rivera (Latin).................................................................. 85

supperclub (Club)......................................................81

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LONG BEACH

patina (French)................................................................ 82

ARNIE MORTON’S (Steak)...................................... 87 mccormick & Schmick’s (Seafood)............ 86 restaurant at getty (California)..............80

BREEZE (California).........................................................80 CRAFT (American)............................................................ 78

FOGO DE CHÃO (Steak).......................................... 87 LAWRY’S PRIME RIB (Steak)................................ 87 MATSUHISA (Japanese)............................................... 84 mezze (Mediterranean).................................................. 84 NOBU (Japanese)............................................................... 84 THE STINKING ROSE (Italian)............................. 83 TANZORE (Indian).......................................................... 82

PHILIPPE the original (Quick Bites).......... 86

BURBANK

CENTURY CITY

LA CIENEGA boulevard RESTAURANT ROW

santa monica bar pintxo (Spanish)................................................ 86 blue plate oysterette (Seafood)............ 86 boa (Steak).......................................................................... 87 Border Grill (Mexican)........................................ 85 CAPO (Italian).................................................................... 82 CHINOIS ON MAIN (California).............................80 DRAGO (Italian)................................................................ 82 farmshop (California)................................................80 father’s office (Brew/Pub).......................... 80 fig restaurant (California)...............................80 fraÎche (Mediterranean)............................................. 84 the hungry cat (Seafood)................................. 86 il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 82 ivy at the shore (American)......................... 78 la cachette BISTRO (French).............................. 82 La vecchia (Italian)................................................... 83 THE LOBSTER (Seafood)............................................ 86 MÉLISSE (French)............................................................. 82 Michael’s (California).................................................80 pacific dining car (Steak).............................. 88

Valley asanebo (Japanese).................................................... 84 BENIHANA (Japanese).................................................. 84 buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 82 firenze osteria (Italian)................................... 82 KATE MANTILINI (American)............................... 78 KATSU-YA (Japanese).................................................... 84 roy’s (Seafood)................................................................. 86 SUSHI NOZAWA (Japanese).................................... 84 umami burger (American)...................................80

VENICE chaya (California)............................................................80 GJELINA (Mediterranean)............................................. 84 JOE’S (California)...............................................................80 piccolo (Italian)............................................................ 83 primitivo (Spanish)..................................................... 87 the tasting kitchen (California).................80

WEST HOLLYWOOD BLT STEAK (Steak)........................................................ 87 BOA (Steak).......................................................................... 87 cecconi’s (Italian)....................................................... 82 dominick’s (Italian).................................................... 82 fig & Olive (Mediterranean).................................... 84 Gordon Ramsay (Eclectic)................................. 82 the hall (French)....................................................... 82 il sole (Italian)............................................................... 83 the ivy (American)............................................. ..........78 katana (Japanese)......................................................... 84 petrossian (French)............................................... 82 STK (Steak)........................................................................... 88 talÉsai (Thai)................................................................. 88 tender greens (Quick Bites)...........................86 the veggie grill (Quick Bites)......................... 86

WESTSIDE the apple pan (Quick Bites)................................ 86 chan dara (Thai)...................................................... 88 il grano (Italian)......................................................... 82 la serenata de garibaldi (Mexican)........ 85 matteo’s (Italian)....................................................... 83 paparazzi (Italian)..................................................... 83 picca (Latin)...................................................................... 85 sotto (Italian).................................................................. 83 sushi sasabune (Japanese).............................84 westside tavern (California).............................81

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SPECIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

208 RODEO Set atop the stairs on Via Rodeo’s cobblestone street, 208 Rodeo serves up luxury and bistro fare in a unique, romantic setting. Exuding Rodeo Drive elegance—the restaurant’s flagstone patio overlooks the Beverly Wilshire Hotel, the setting of the film Pretty Woman—208 Rodeo is a gem among the ritzy shops of Two Rodeo. Whether it’s for breakfast, lunch, dinner or a quick bite, 208 Rodeo offers it all amid warm Hollywood Regency décor. The eatery offers California cuisine with pan-Asian and French influences, serving dishes that are both beautifully presented and imaginatively prepared with seasonal ingredients. Menu highlights include tomato bisque, coconut sesame prawns, tuna tartar, penne arrabbiata and pan-roasted striped bass. 208 Rodeo also offers a delectable dessert list featuring chocolate Florentine cannoli and tiramisu. A children’s menu is available for all meals. B, L, D (daily)

208 Via Rodeo, Beverly Hills

310.275.2428

Starters Organic tomato bisque French onion soup Crispy calamari Caprese salad with burrata Mediterranean tuna tartar Goat cheese with roasted baby beets Coconut sesame prawns Smoked salmon platter Assorted sliders Classic Caesar salad Iceberg Cobb salad Thai beef salad Seared ahi tuna Niçoise salad Asian grilled prawn-spinach salad Lobster-and-white-truffle salad Entrees Brioche French toast Cobblestone omelets Organic parfait Gourmet grilled cheese sandwich Grilled chicken breast sandwich Kobe beef avocado burger Penne arrabbiata Roasted salmon Strip bass meunière Provençal mussels and fries Grilled Jidori chicken Baby lamb chop New York strip steak Flat iron steak and French green beans Filet mignon and Brussels sprouts Desserts Chocolate Florentine cannoli Mixed berry rolada Napoleon Tiramisu Triple-layer chocolate mousse White chocolate cheesecake

208rodeo.com

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Crab cakes with micro greens Prime filet carpaccio Charlie’s cheese plate Watermelon salad Ahi tartar Oysters

CHarLIE’S MaLIBU Charlie DiLorenzo opened her dream restaurant in spring 2009 to outstanding reviews. Embraced by the local community and diners visiting the spectacular coastal location, Charlie’s serves classic steaks, fresh seafood, pastas and gourmet pizzas—including a 16-oz. rib eye, lamb lollipops with blue cheese fondue and seared dry pack sea scallops—as well as the house favorite, white pizza with ricotta, feta, mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses and white truffle essence. The lunch menu offers organic salads, sandwiches, burgers, pizzas, pastas and fresh seafood along with starters including ahi tartare and crispy calamari rings. Charlie’s also boasts a contemporary bar program of original cocktails and a wine cellar with 150 labels from vineyards from Malibu to the Médoc. A stylish yet casual dining room, private room, small patio and lounge features neutral tones and natural woods, highlighted by striking Dolce & Gabbana leopard-print “mademoiselle” chairs and a hand-blown glass chandelier. L (M–F), D (nightly).

Entrees Spaghetti aglio y olio Angel hair pomodoro Penne a la vodka White pizza with white truffle essence Wild mushroom and goat cheese pizza Charlie’s Kobe burger Charlie’s famous chicken sandwich Portobello mushroom sandwich Prime rib-eye sandwich Filet mignon New York strip steak Rib eye steak Pork chop Lamb with blue-cheese fondue Duck with Port wine and cherries Half-roasted Jidori chicken Grilled salmon Grilled jumbo prawns Seared dry pack scallops Lobster tail

22821 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu

310.456.3132 charliesmalibu.com

10:14 AM

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SPeCIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters “Little Gem Caeser” salad Burrata cheese and heirloom tomatoes Roasted organic artichokes

paparazzI rISToraNTE Paparazzi Ristorante in the Sheraton Gateway Hotel near LAX delights diners with fresh pasta in authentic sauces as well as artistically prepared seafood, poultry and steaks. Chef Orazio Parisi inspires the senses with his simple, classic Italian cuisine with a gentle nod to southern Italy. Start with a tasty salad such as the “Little Gem Caeser”, or choose from appetizers that include eggplant parmigiana or tuna tartar with blood orange vinaigrette and an artichoke puree. The house specialty is “Il Cioppino dei Paparazzi”, an enticing combination of seafood in a fennel pomodoro broth served with a classic garlic ciabatta or try the terra e mare, an Angus filet mignon served alongside wild Pacific prawns, asparagus and gorgonzola mashed potatoes. Pasta lovers can also find comfort with the robust flavorings of the garganelli alla Salsiccia, lasagna al brasato or spaghetti alla chitarra. Dine in a crisp, clean and classy décor. An elegant private dining room accommodates 40 guests and is equipped for entertainment and audio-visual needs. D (M–Sa).

Entrees Spaghetti alla chitarra Tagliatelle alla bolognese Garganelli con Salsiccia Lasagna al brasato Il cioppino dei Paparazzi Fileto alla griglia Bistecca al pepe verde La bistecca del vaccaro Ossobuco Organic lamb chops Pan-seared branzino al “salmoriglio” Sicilian pistachio-crusted Alaskan halibut Desserts Crema fredda al limoncello Profiteroles Tiramisu

6101 W. Century Blvd., Westchester

310.642.4820 sheratonlax.com/paparazzi

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Jumbo lump crab cake Pacific Coast steamers Spicy seared ahi tuna New England-style clam chowder Diver scallops Sashimi sampler

ParkErS’ LIGHTHoUSE With its signature seafood and steaks, warm service and breathtaking views of Long Beach Harbor and the Queen Mary, Parkers’ Lighthouse— now featuring Queensview Steakhouse on the third floor—is a perennial favorite of locals and visitors alike. Located in a fully operational lighthouse that has become the landmark for Shoreline Village, Parkers’ has long been the place to go for the freshest, locally sourced seafood, sushi or steaks. Guests may dine in the soaring, casually elegant dining room or on a romantic waterfront patio. The recently introduced Queensview Steakhouse, which boasts 360-degree views of the harbor, Pacific Ocean and sparkling city skyline, is the South Bay’s newest special-occasion spot, specializing in premium steaks and chops. Its exclusive supper club experience includes live jazz in an inviting lounge with club chairs and a bar turning out old classics and innovative specialty cocktails. L, D (daily).

Entrees Macadamia nut-crusted mahi mahi Chilean sea bass Daily selection of grilled fresh fish Crab- and shrimp-crusted salmon Prime New York strip steak Alaskan king crab Shelton Farms boneless half-chicken Surf & turf Maple-glazed prime pork loin Desserts Fuji apple cobbler Godiva Swiss chocolate cake Warm Tollhouse pie Trio of fresh seasonal fruit sorbets New York-style cheesecake

435 Shoreline Village Drive, Long Beach

562.432.6500 parkerslighthouse.com

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SPeCIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

SIMoN LA At Simon LA, chef/partner Kerry Simon, winner of the Food Network’s Iron Chef, serves his signature brand of American comfort fare. Named the “Rock ’n’ Roll Chef” by Rolling Stone magazine, Simon delivers delightfully simple, straightforward cuisine including bluefin tuna tartare with lemongrass oil, brick-roasted organic chicken with spiced chickpeas and harissa herb aioli, and cowboy rib-eye with crispy shallot rings. For dessert, try the group-friendly Junk Food Platter, filled with grown-up versions of nostalgic treats from childhood. Meals are served in a visually eclectic dining room decorated with earthy, organic tones and leather accents. A candlelit outdoor patio features plush couches and oversize pillows. Br (Sa–Su), B, L, D (daily).

Starters Roasted exotic mushroom salad Baby beet salad on scarlet quinoa Heirloom tomato and burrata cheese Kenter greens market salad Belgian endive and organic watercress Apple rutabaga soup Beef tartare with caper aïoli Italian sausage flatbread with fried egg Creamy crispy rock shrimp Colossal crab cake with Asian slaw Tuna tartare in lemongrass oil Tuna dynamite with red chili aïoli West Coast oysters Entrees Chanterelle-crusted NY strip steak Crab-crusted local fish on forbidden rice Oven-roasted brick chicken Roasted salmon on farro risotto Beef carpaccio pizza Bamboo steamed fish Braised prime beef short ribs Cumin marinated skirt steak Cowboy rib-eye in red-wine butter Ahi tuna with wasabi mashed potatoes Filet mignon with Tuscan fries Special recipe meatloaf Lamb porterhouse with farro tabbouleh Chef’s market selection garden risotto

8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

310.358.3979 simonlarestaurant.com

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TaBErNa MExIcaNa Experience modern Mexican cuisine at the new Beverly Hills hot spot Taberna Mexicana. Crispy plantain, yucca and blue corn strips paired with authentic salsas greets each guestâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a welcome change from ubiquitous tortilla chips and the first clue that Taberna Mexicana does things differently. The atmosphere is casually sophisticated, paying tribute to the culture of Mexico in a vibrant color scheme. The bar scene is lively. Chef Alex Padilla, trained under famed San Francisco chef Nancy Oaks, honed his craft in Mexico and Europe, lending a crosscultural flair to each dish on the menu. The signature dishes include cochinita pibil, a 48-hour marinated Yucatan pork stew, plus pumpkinseed-crusted scallops, mole-rubbed prime rib and braised duck tacos. The margaritas are created with small-batch distillery tequila, freshsqueezed juices, agave nectar and sea salt, occasionally muddled with a fistful of seasonal fresh fruit such as Bing cherries, pumpkin or even avocado. L, D (daily).

Starters Guacamole with pumpkin seeds Lamb masa boats Poached octopus with caper aĂŻoli Mushroom quesadilla Tortilla soup with pasilla chile Albondigas in spicy broth with avocado Farmers market salad Mexican Cobb salad Ahi tuna ceviche Sea scallop and passion fruit ceviche Citrus shrimp and snapper ceviche Entrees Chicken and chorizo tacos Filet mignon tacos with mole rub Crispy duck tacos with morita sauce Bacon-wrapped shrimp tacos Grilled fish tacos Roasted rabbit enchiladas in mole sauce Braised pork in tomatillo sauce Cochinita pibil Stuffed poblano chile Chicken tamal in guajillo pepper sauce Fajita burger Chorizo burger Brunch Entrees Huevos rancheros Carnitas hash and eggs Queso fundido Fried quail eggs with goat cheese grits House-made chorizo Blue crab and mushroom frittata

369 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills

310.858.7070 tabernamexicana.com

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la dining matteo’s restaurant Frequented in its early days by celebs including Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack, Matteo’s Restaurant has redefined its look and cuisine while maintaining status as the epitome of classic cool. a unique menu that changes with the seasons and an upscale supper club atmosphere form a winning combination of homey and hip. Executive chef antonio Orlando’s menu feature sumptuous, cosmopolitan italian fare like veal tartufato, lamb and weekly game specials. Happy hour specials Tuesday through Friday and on Sunday include half-off drinks and a $7 and under bar menu. For lunch, visit adjacent cafe Hoboken, open weekdays. d (Tu-Su).

2321 Westwood Blvd., l.a. 310.475.4521 matteosla.com

vampire lounge & tasting room discover a seductive escape in the heart of Beverly Hills at Vampire lounge & Tasting Room. On the menu is Vampire Vineyards’ full range of delicious wines; try dracula Syrah, Trueblood Pinot noir or Je T’aime Rosé Champagne. also sample bittersweet chocolates, superb cappuccinos, fine teas and other delicious `lite bites’. The lounge features décor with gothic undertones, including plush red velvet upholstery and gold-and-crystal chandeliers. Twilight Happy Hour, featuring 25 percent off reserve wines, is a must. anne Rice fans will adore this place, which offers a chance to sip the blood of the vine. gifts and specialty food products are also available. 9865 s. santa monica Blvd., Beverly Hills 310.826.7473 vampiretastingroom.com

noé restaurant & Bar nestled among skyscrapers and the water features of California Plaza is noé Restaurant & Bar in the Omni los angeles Hotel. awarded a notable 3 fork-and-knife rating in the los angeles 2008 Michelin guide, executive chef glen ishii’s market-driven menu of neo bistro cuisine tempts palates of diners nightly. With portion sizes ranging from delicate small plates to full-bodied entrees, noé Restaurant & Bar has become a popular setting for downtown residents to unwind or for theater patrons grabbing a quick bite before the curtain rises at the numerous theaters in the area. This fall, in honor of Cirque du Soleil’s new show, Iris, noé offers fans a three-course prix fixe menu evoking the whimsical production’s cinematic theme. d (nightly).

omni los angeles Hotel, 251 s. olive st., downtown 213.356.4100 noerestaurant.com special advertising section

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la dining Il Fornaio Il Fornaio’s award-winning authentic Italian cuisine is a favorite in Los Angeles. Specialties include house-made pastas, wood-fired pizza, grilled fish, authentic risotto, and rotisserie meats. Artisan breads and pasta are made fresh daily. Each month a special menu from a different region of Italy is featured. With an event coordinator on-site to handle all of your needs, Il Fornaio is the perfect location for special events and business functions. Winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2008.

301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.7800 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797 ilfornaio.com

Cafe Sierra Within walking distance of Universal Studios Entertainment Center, Cafe Sierra offers an extravagant, Vegas-style seafood, lobster and prime rib dinner buffet with entertainment. On the weekend, they offer a delectable champagne brunch which has been voted best in Los Angeles. Signature American international breakfast buffet, which is perfect for early morning power meetings and offers Wi-Fi capabilities. A la carte breakfast, lunch and dinner menus offer a wide selection of continental cuisine. With a wide selection of award winning wines, the atrium lounge features great appetizers and happy hour. Alfresco dining at Hollywood Pool and Cabanas (weather permitting). Free self-parking. 10% discount on dinner buffet with hotel key. B, L, D (daily).

555 Universal Hollywood Drive, Universal City 818.509.2030 hiltonuniversal.com

The Stinking Rose Located on Beverly Hills’ famed Restaurant Row, The Stinking Rose has made a name for itself, and its popularity is evident—people fill the unique dining rooms to partake of the tasty food enhanced by the fragrant bulb. Specialties include two pounds of whole, garlic-roasted Dungeness crab in a secret garlic sauce, garlic-encrusted baby back ribs, the ever-popular forty-clove garlic chicken and the silence-of-the-lamb shank with Chianti glaze and fava beans (shown at right). L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd. (near Wilshire Blvd.), Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 thestinkingrose.com special advertising section

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la dining Benihana Beverly Hills At the heart of the Benihana experience lies the teppanyaki table, where masterful chefs expertly prepare fine Japanese cuisine on hibachi grills. Favorites like filet mignon, New York strip steak, shrimp with butter and lemon, Seafood Diablo with udon noodles or the signature hibachi chicken fried rice are cooked to order right in front of guests. The appetizer menu includes sushi and tempura selections. The beverage menu includes interesting wines, creative cocktails and a variety of sake. A children’s menu is also available. L, D (daily).

38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 323.655.7311 benihana.com

Public Kitchen & Bar

From Domaine Restaurant’s Tim Goodell comes Public Kitchen & Bar, new at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel. The landmark hotel’s reimagined dining hall offers locals and travelers alike a menu of eclectic American fare in a stunning setting, reminiscent of a stylish and welcoming private home. A loft-inspired design provides a bright space, highlighted by black walnut butcher-block tables, redesigned 1960s library chairs and diamond-tufted banquettes. At the room’s center, a large, three-sided, marble-topped bar offers creative cocktails, a moderately priced 100-bottle wine list, beers by draft and bottle and an assortment of cured meats and cheeses. L, D (daily).

Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood 323.769.8888 thompsonhotels.com

Petrossian The fine dining restaurant and luxury boutique from New York/Paris-based Petrossian—a 90-year-old, family-owned purveyor of fine caviar—offers a diverse and approachable menu. Lunch favorites include classic cold borscht, Cobb salad and smoked salmon tartine. For dinner, guests can find French-inspired favorites like Napoleon tartare topped with caviar and black truffle-accented mac ‘n’ cheese. Enjoy weekend champagne brunch—featuring traditional, delicious fare such as a croque madame and brioche French toast—on Petrossian’s sun-soaked patio. The boutique sells Petrossianbranded luxury food items such as candies, wine, foie gras and pâté, and is a great place for holiday gift baskets. L, D (daily), Br (Sa-Su).

321 N. Robertson Blvd., W. Hollywood 310.271.0576 petrossian.com special advertising section

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Entertainment unique L.A. hoLidAy show Dec. 3–4. Largest indie design show in the country features wares from more than 300 designers and artists. Free workshops, an ecolounge and cafés, plus food trucks on site. 11 am–6 pm daily. $10. California Market Center, 110 E. 9th St., downtown, uniquela.com Map I16 cAstLe green hoLidAy tour Dec. 4. Historic Pasadena hotel decorates 20 apartments with different themes. Holiday sweets and drinks served. 1 and 5 pm tours. $20, under 13 free. 99 S. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, 626.577.6765 Map Q19 iL teAtro ALLA ModA—theAter in FAshion Through Dec. 18. The Wallis Annenberg Center for Performing Arts presents exhibition of haute couture costumes made for opera, dance and theater. W–F noon–7 pm, Sa–Su 11 am–6 pm. $10, under 12 and students with ID free. Free admission for all on Wednesdays. MGM Place, 253 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, annenbergbh.com Map J11 L.A. county hoLidAy ceLebrAtion Dec. 24. Holiday extravaganza with multicultural performing arts groups. 3–6 pm. Free. Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3099 Map H16

L.A. Made

As part of the regionwide Pacific Standard Time: Art in L.A., 1945-1980 initiative, the Getty Center offers In Focus: Los Angeles, 1945–1980, an exhibition of photographs by artists whose time in Los Angeles inspired them to create memorable images of the city, on view from Dec. 20. The show is a mix of iconic and largely unknown work by artists who are strongly associated with Los Angeles— whether they lived here or just visited. Arists such as Judy Fiskin, Jo Ann Callis, Man Ray, Max Yavno and Edmund Teske fill out the exhibition. One of the most well-known works in the show is Garry Winogrand’s iconic photograph Los Angeles International Airport (Pictured, 1964). p. 106

tournAMent oF roses Dec. 29–Jan. 3. Float decorating, Bandfest, Equestfest, Rose Parade (Jan. 2, 8 am), Rose Bowl (Jan 2, 1:30 pm). Rose Parade: Orange Grove, Colorado and Sierra Madre boulevards, Pasadena, 626.795.4171; Rose Bowl Stadium: Orange Grove Boulevard, Lida Street and Fair Oaks and Linda Vista avenues, Pasadena, 213.365.3675 Map Q18 ice At sAntA MonicA Continuing. Outdoor skating rink in downtown Santa Monica. M–Th 2–10 pm, F 2 pm–midnight, Sa 10 am–midnight, Su 10 am–10 pm most days. Admission, skate rental $12. 1324 5th St., Santa Monica, 805.701.7248 Map L8 PAciFic stAndArd tiMe: Art in L.A. 1945–1980 Continuing. Cultural institutions in L.A. and beyond unite for this event, which features 60 exhibitions on the birth of the L.A. art scene. Venues include the Getty Center, Fowler Museum at UCLA and Hammer Museum. All participating venues listed online. pacificstandardtime.org

Theater next FALL Through Dec. 4. A gay couple endures in spite of religious differences until a critical accident forces a confrontation. Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10 bring it on—the MusicAL Through Dec. 10. Rival cheerleading squads compete for glory in this musical comedy based on the film. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 rAdiAnce: the PAssion oF MArie curie Through Dec. 18. Biographical play about Nobel Prize– winning scientist Marie Curie written by actor-screenwriter Alan Alda and Daniel Sullivan. Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10 VigiL Through Dec. 18. A man travels across the country to visit his estranged and dying aunt Grace (Olympia Dukakis), but he finds she’s not dying as quickly as he expected. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 the night wAtcher Through Dec. 18. Charlayne Woodard’s one-woman show tackles the subject of

Guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map h10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 115–118. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index Special Events .................100 Theater ..............................100 Music + Dance.................100 Attractions .......................102 Studio Tours .....................102 Studio Tapings.................104

Museums .........................104 Shopping............................ 107 Spas .....................................109 Nightlife..............................110 Tours + Transport ............. 112

motherhood. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 iris Ongoing. Cirque du Soleil’s newest production, a tribute to film, takes up permanent residence at the Kodak Theatre. Fantastical score courtesy of Danny Elfman. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 877.943.4747 Map H13

Music + Dance dorothy chAndLer PAViLion Dec. 1–4 The Joffrey Ballet, The Nutcracker. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16 the Music box @ FondA Dec. 6 Girls. Dec. 7–8 The Kooks. Dec. 13 Digitalism. Dec. 14 Dinosaur Jr. Dec. 16 X. 6126 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.0808 Map H14 nokiA theAtre L.A. LiVe Dec. 3 Jingle Ball with Lady Gaga, David Guetta, Flo Rida, Sean Paul, Gym Class Heroes, Taio Cruz, Big Time Rush. Dec. 5 Hillsong Live. Dec. 11 Mariachi USA Christmas. Dec. 15 Mark & Brian Christmas Show with Steve Miller Band, Kathleen Madigan, M&B All-Star Band. Dec. 17 Stevie Wonder, Drake, Wondermagic. Dec. 31 Katt Williams. 777 Chick Hearn Court, downtown, 213.763.6020 Map I15 stAPLes center Dec. 11–13 Jay-Z, Kanye West. Dec. 28 Bob Seger. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 800.745.3000 Map I15 ucLA LiVe Dec. 10 The Hot Chocolate Nutcracker. Dec. 11 Los Angeles Chamber Orchestra. Dec. 17–18 Los Angeles Ballet, The Nutcracker. Dec. 29 Woody Allen’s New Orleans Jazz Orchestra. UCLA, Royce Hall, Westwood, 310.825.2101 Map J10 wALt disney concert hALL Dec. 2–4 Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Esa-Pekka Salonen, director Peter Sellars, bass-baritone Ryan McKinny, bass Jordan Bisch, tenor Michael Fabiano, baritone Eugene Brancoveanu, soprano Yulia van Doren, tenor Timur Bekbosunov, Los Angeles Master Chorale. Dec. 6 Members of the L.A. Philharmonic. Dec. 8–9, 11 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Thomas Wilkins, cellist Zuill Bailey. Dec. 10–12 L.A. Master Chorale. Dec. 10 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Courtney Lewis. Dec. 13–15 Philharmonia Baroque, conductor Nicholas McGegan, soprano Dominique Labelle, alto Daniel Taylor, tenor Thomas Cooley, baritone Nathaniel Watson, Philharmonia Chorale. Dec. 15 Chanticleer. Dec. 16–18 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Bernard Labadie, pianist Benedetto Lupo. Dec. 16 Organist David Higgs. Dec. 17 Host David Prather, Angeles Chorale, conductor John Sutton. Dec. 18 L.A. Master Chorale. Dec. 19 The Klezmatics. Dec. 20 John Pizzarelli, Jessica Molaskey. Dec. 31 Pink Martini. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

Los Angeles International Airport was built in 1928 on top of a bean field and originally called Mines Field. Today it covers 3,500 acres and sees 32 million passengers per year.

1984 ESTATE OF GARRY WINOGRAND

Special Events

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wicked has landed for the holidays.

PanTages TheaTre noW Thru January 29, 2012 TickeTs on sale noW Ticketmaster (800) 982-2787, Broadwayla.org Box office opens Daily at 10am (except holidays) group sales 20+ call (866)755-3075 nedgroups.com

wickedthemusical.com • grammy® award-Winning cast recording available on Decca Broadway

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Attractions + Museums

fArmers mArket Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. M–F 9 am–9 pm; Sa 9 am–8 pm; Su 10 am–7 pm. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13 goLd cLAss cinemAs Deluxe dinner-and-a-movie experience: Patrons recline in deluxe seats while being served dinner, cocktails, pillows, blankets during screenings. Daily 11 am–midnight. $19–$29. One Colorado, 42 Miller Way, Pasadena, 626.639.2260 Map Q19

contortionist from cirque du soleil’s Iris the wiLtern Dec. 2 M Live by CJ. Dec. 3 Beady Eye. Dec. 8 Erykah Badu & the Cannabinoids. Dec. 9 Straight No Chaser. Dec. 10 Aimee Mann Christmas Show. 3790 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 877.598.8698 Map J13

Attractions AdAmson house 1930s home filled with famed Malibu Potteries tile. Grounds open daily; house W–F 10:30 am–3:30 pm, Sa 11 am–3 pm. $2–$5, under 6 free. No credit cards. 23200 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.8432 Map west of K7 AmericAn girL PLAce Multilevel venue with boutique, bookstore and cafe dedicated to the designer dolls. M–Th 10 am–8 pm; F–Sa 10 am–9 pm; Su 10 am–7 pm. The Grove, 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 877.247.5223 Map J13 AquArium of the PAcific Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Pet the sharks at Shark Lagoon; Lorikeet Forest, Monsters of the Abyss 3-D. Daily 9 am–6 pm. $12.95–$24.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16 cAtALinA exPress Year-round boat service to Catalina Island; daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservation recommended. Call for hours. $25.50–$34.25 one way, $51–$68.50 round-trip; under 2, $2–$4. 800.995.4386, catalinaexpress.com cAthedrAL of our LAdy of the AngeLs Stunning contemporary cathedral opposite Music Center. M–F 6:30 am–6 pm; Sa 9 am–6 pm; Su 7 am–6 pm. 555 W. Temple St., downtown, 213.680.5200 Map H17 chinAtown Ornate architecture, dim sum, shops with Eastern wares. Art and antiques on Chung King Road. Between Cesar E. Chavez Avenue and Bernard Street, Yale and Spring streets, downtown Map G17 descAnso gArdens North America’s largest camellia collection (34,000 plants amid 20 acres of oaks) and much more, including lilacs, azaleas, irises. 9 am–5 pm daily. $3–$8, under 5 free. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200 Map Q19 disneyLAnd Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Recent additions include Finding Nemo Submarine Voyage. Updated Pirates of the Caribbean and Space Mountain. Fireworks, fantastic Fantasmic! continues. Call for hours. Admission (includes all rides and attractions): $68– $76, under 2 free. 1600 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map I10 disney’s cALiforniA AdVenture Ariel’s Undersea Adventure is newest attraction. Call for hours. Admission (includes all rides and attractions): $68– $76, under 2 free. 1600 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map I10

grAumAn’s chinese theAtre Historic Hollywood venue with walkway of stars’ hand- and footprints in the forecourt. Call for movie schedule. 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.8111 Map H13 griffith obserVAtory Iconic attraction overlooking Hollywood. Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu–F noon–10 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–10 pm. Free; donations accepted. 2800 E. Observatory Road, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 guinness worLd record museum Shrine to amazing achievements. Daily 10 am–midnight. $6.95– $15.95, under 6 free. 6764 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.463.6433 Map H13 hoLLywood wALk of fAme Celebs’ names are enshrined in bronze-and-terrazzo stars. Free. Hollywood Boulevard from Gower Street to La Brea Avenue, Hollywood, 323.469.8311 Map H13 hoLLywood wAx museum Hollywood and pop culture greats in wax. Su–Th 10 am–midnight; F–Sa 10 am–1 am. $8.95–$15.95, $5.95–$12.95 online, under 5 free. 6767 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.462.5991 Map H13 kodAk theAtre Tour the home of the Academy Awards. Daily 10:30 am–4 pm. $10–$15, under 3 free. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300 Map H13 L.A. LiVe Burgeoning entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Nokia Theatre and Club Nokia; restaurants, high-tech bowling lanes and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15

M–Tu noon–7 pm; F–Sa 11 am–midnight; Su 11 am –11 pm. Admission free; rides $3–$5, unlimited pass $15.95–$24.95. 380 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica, 310.260.8744 Map L8 queen mAry shiP And seAPort Historic ocean liner—bigger than the Titanic!—permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Shops, dining, art deco lounge. Daily 10 am–6 pm for self-guided and guided tours. $12.95– $24.95, under 5 free. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 562.435.3511 Map O16 riPLey’s beLieVe it or not! museum Three hundred displays feature curiosities gathered by traveler Robert Ripley in the 1930s. Daily 10 am–midnight. $8.99– $14.99, under 5 free. 6780 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.6335 Map H13 russiAn foxtrot submArine Tour the Scorpion, moored next to historic Queen Mary ocean liner. Daily 10 am–6 pm. $9.95–$10.95, under 5 free. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 562.432.0424 Map O16 sAn Antonio winery Complimentary tastings and tour of the only producing winery in L.A. Restaurant and wine shop on site. Open daily; call for hours. 737 Lamar St., downtown, 323.223.1401 Map G17 sAntA monicA mountAins nAtionAL recreAtionAL AreA Hiking, horseback riding, bird-watching on 150,000 acres. National Park Service Visitor Center open daily 9 am–5 pm (holidays exempt). 401 W. Hillcrest Drive, Thousand Oaks, 805.370.2301 Map west of B1 six fLAgs mAgic mountAin Theme park has 17 coasters; dozens of attractions; rides including world’s tallest, fastest and longest flying coaster, Tatsu. Call for hours. $34.99– $59.99, under 3 free. 26101 Magic Mountain Pkwy., Valencia, 661.255.4111 Map A2 uniVersAL citywALk Eye-popping dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes boutiques such as Fossil, Guess? and Abercrombie & Fitch, novelty stores and state-of-the-art cinema and IMAX theater. iFLY Hollywood is a simulated sky-diving wind tunnel. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20

L.A. zoo And botAnicAL gArdens Wildlife in parklike setting. Daily 10 am–5 pm. $9–$14, under 2 free. Golden State (5) and Ventura (134) freeways, 5333 Zoo Drive, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23

uniVersAL studios hoLLywood World’s biggest motion picture/TV studio. Rides include Jurassic Park, The Simpsons Ride and Revenge of the Mummy— the Ride. Tram studio tour includes the new King Kong 360 3-D and film and TV sets. VIP Experience is private guided tour through prop warehouse, working movie sets, soundstages. Call for hours. $66–$74, under 3 free. VIP Experience $259. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20

Los AngeLes county Arboretum & botAnic gArden Peafowl roam the grounds and roost overhead at 127-acre garden. Make your own idyllic route or take the tram tour. Su–F 9 am–5 pm (last admission 4:30 pm); Sa, call for hours. Free third Tuesday of the month. $3–$8, under 5 free. 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222 Map Q22

wALt disney concert hALL Frank Gehry-designed architectural landmark at the Music Center. Tour options include 45-minute self-guided audio tour narrated by John Lithgow; guided tours at noon and 1 pm; pre-matinee guided tours. Guided tours for 15 or more by reservation. 10 am–2 pm most days. Free. 151 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.4399 Map H16

mAdAme tussAuds hoLLywood Wax museum with some 115 likenesses of celebrities in music, film, sports and more. Costumes provided for photo ops with figures. Call for hours. $18–$25, $14.40–$20 online, under 4 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13

Studio Tours

oceAn front wALk Boardwalk with street performers, souvenir vendors. Muscle Beach–adjacent. Along beach between Marine Street and Grand Boulevard, Venice Map N9 PAcific PArk Amusement park on the Santa Monica Pier with rides including a solar-powered Ferris wheel, plus midway games, food vendors, specialty shops.

nbc studios Seventy-five-minute walking tour; see sets of The Tonight Show With Jay Leno, Days of Our Lives; wardrobe, makeup, special effects, sound effects. M–F 9 am–3 pm. $5–$8.50, under 5 free. 3000 W. Alameda Ave., Burbank, 818.840.3538 Map T21 sony Pictures studios Two-hour walking tour of working motion picture studio includes sets of television shows and films including Spider-Man. Reservation, photo ID required. M–F 9:30 am–2:30 pm. $33; under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11

PHILIPPE GUILLOTEL

egyPtiAn theAtre Restored 1922 Hollywood landmark screens classics, cult favorites, indie films. Excellent Forever Hollywood screens daily. Call for schedule. $5–$10. 6712 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.3456 Map H13

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Attractions + Museums THE STUDIOS AT PARAMOUNT Two-hour group tour of the longest-operating and only remaining major studio in Hollywood. Reservation required. Tours M–F (holidays exempt) at 10 am, 11 am, 1 pm and 2 pm. $45. 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777 Map I14 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD See listing under Attractions. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20 WARNER BROS. STUDIOS Two-hour VIP tour of working movie and TV studio includes backlots, enormous soundstages and costume department, memorabilia museum and observation of filming when possible. VIP tours available. Reservation recommended; photo ID required. M–F 8:20 am–4 pm. $49, under 8 not admitted. 3400 Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.972.8087 Map U20

Studio Tapings AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, FOX, NBC and CW. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. Satellite TV Ticket Booth, Universal Studios Hollywood, 818.260.0041, Ext. 1. tvtickets.com JIMMY KIMMEL LIVE Free tickets for live tapings of late-night ABC show. Minimum age 18. Phone line open M–F 1–4 pm. El Capitan Entertainment Center, 6838 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 866.546.6984 Map H13 NBC TELEVISION Reserve seats for sitcoms and The Jay Leno Show day of show only at NBC Ticket Box. Two tickets per person, first come, first served. Advance tickets except The Tonight Show through Audiences Unlimited. Minimum age 16. 3000 W. Alameda Ave., Burbank, 818.840.3537 Map T21

HOLIDAY GIFTS JEWELRY HOME ACCENTS FASHION BOOKS ACCESSORIES SHOP AT THE

919 South Grand Ave. LA 90015 • fidmmuseum.org • fidmmuseumshop.org • 213.623.5821

ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including American Idol, Family Feud, The Late Late Show, MADtv. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. 818.295.2700, ocatv.com PARAMOUNT STUDIOS Tickets to tapings of shows offered first come, first served five days in advance and via website. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. (Dr. Phil tickets, 323.461.7445, Audience@CBSParamount. com.) 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777, paramount.com Map I14

Museums THE ANNENBERG SPACE FOR PHOTOGRAPHY Ten thousand square feet with digital projection gallery, print exhibit area. Opening Dec. 17 Digital Darkroom. W– Su 11 am–6 pm. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa–Su. Admission free. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.209.4560 Map J11 CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM History, culture, art. Through Dec. 24 Women: Game Changers, Less Known, Here Celebrated. Continuing The African Diaspora in the Art of Miguel Covarrubias: Driven by Color, Shaped by Cultures; Places of Validation, Art & Progression. Ongoing Gallery of Discovery. Tu–Sa 10 am–5 pm; Su 11 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $8. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, 213.744.7432 Map M8 CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Interactive exhibits for budding scientists. New Ecosystems wing. Continuing 1001 Inventions: Discover the Golden Age of Muslim Civilization; Science in Toyland. Ongoing Forty Years of Space Photography; After Life; FADE: The Dark Side of Light. Daily 10 am–5 pm. Permanent exhibition gallery, free; admission for other exhibits and Imax varies. Admission to exhibit galleries free. Parking $8. 700 State Drive, Exposition Park, downtown, 323.724.3623 Map K15

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Attractions + Museums getty center Beautiful travertine-clad hilltop facility houses stunning collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Through Dec. 4 In Focus: The Sky. Opening Dec. 10 In Focus: Los Angeles, 1945–1980. Opening Dec. 13 Gothic Grandeur: Manuscript Illumination, 1200–1350. Continuing Images of the Artist; Greetings From L.A.: Artists and Publics, 1950–1980; Pacific Standard Time: Crosscurrents in L.A. Painting and Sculpture, 1950–1970; Lyonel Feininger: Photographs, 1928–1939; Narrative Interventions in Photography; From Start to Finish: De Wain Valentine’s Gray Column; Fashion in the Middle Ages; Gods of Angkor: Bronzes From the National Museum of Cambodia. Ongoing New Galleries for Medieval and Renaissance Sculpture and Decorative Arts; La Roldona’s Saint Ginés: The Making of a Polychrome Sculpture. Tu–F, Su 10 am–5:30 pm; Sa 10 am–9 pm. Free. Parking $15, free Sa after 5 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map K7

  —  

a fifth anniversary showcase a fifth anniversary showcase

getty ViLLA Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Roman and Greek antiquities. Continuing Modern Antiquity: Picasso, de Chirico, Léger, and Picabia in the Presence of the Antique. Ongoing Molten Color: Glassmaking in Antiquity; Roman Ephebe From Naples. Th–M 10 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $15. Advance timed tickets required. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.440.7300 Map K7 grAmmy museum Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music across genres, the creative and recording processes, and Grammy Award history. Continuing Say It Loud: The Genius of James Brown; The Beatles LOVE by Cirque du Soleil: A Fifth Anniversary Showcase; Roy Orbison: The Soul of Rock & Roll; Bob Marley, Messenger; Barbra Streisand; Michael Jackson. Daily 10 am–6 pm. $10.95–$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., Suite A245, downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15

PROFESSIONAL

hAmmer museum Traveling shows and installations and permanent collection. Through Dec. 30 140-382_GM_WhereLA_Dec11_final.indd 1 Zarina: Paper Like Skin. Continuing Patricias Esquivias; Carlos Bunga; Now Dig This!: Art and Black Los Angeles 1960–1980; Sara Vanderbeek; Linn Meyers; Recent Acquisitions From the Grunwald Center for Graphic Arts; Selections From the Hammer Contemporary Collection. Tu–W, F–Sa 11 am–7 pm, Th until 9 pm, Su until 5 pm. $5–$10. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., Westwood, 310.443.7000 Map J10 hoLLywood museum Ten thousand artifacts on four floors: costumes such as Robert Pattinson’s and Taylor Lautner’s in Twilight; sets including Hannibal Lecter’s cell, props, photos, movie posters, scripts; and Max Factor’s makeup rooms, where Marilyn Monroe became a blonde and Lucille Ball a redhead. In restored Max Factor Building. Continuing Holiday Wonderland at the Hollywood Museum. W–Su 10 am–5 pm. $12–$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 huntington LibrAry, Art coLLections, And botAnicAL gArdens Stellar art, buildings and grounds, children’s garden. Gallery includes Pinkie and The Blue Boy. Continuing Ancient Chinese Bronze Mirrors From the Lloyd Cotsen Collection; Blue Sky Metropolis: The Aerospace Century in Southern California; The House That Sam Built: Sam Maloof and Art in the Pomona Valley, 1945– 1985; Dreams, Disasters and Reality: Goya’s Prints From the Huntington’s Collections. M, W–F noon–4:30 pm; Sa–Su 10:30 am–4:30 pm. $6–$20, under 5 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21

10/21/11 12:21:19 PM

CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM

Women: Game Changers, Less Known, Here Celebrated Through December, 2011

African Diaspora in the Art of Miguel Covarrubias Through February 26, 2012

Places of Validation, Art & Progression Through April 1, 2012

JAPAnese AmericAn nAtionAL museum Continuing Drawing the Line: Japanese American Art, Design and Activism in Post-War Los Angeles. Ongoing Common Ground: The Heart of the Community. Tu–W, F–Su 11 am–5 pm; Th noon–8 pm. $5–$9, under 6 free. 369 E. 1st St., downtown, 213.625.0414 Map H17

Annual Kwanzaa and Holiday Celebration! Target Sundays at CAAM

Los AngeLes county museum of Art Diverse premier collections; Broad Contemporary Art Museum and Resnick Pavilion are latest additions. LACMA West

ongoing

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Gallery of Discovery

CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM 600 State Drive Exposition Park LA 90037 For more information go to www.caamuseum.org or call 213-744-7432. Parking at 39th and Figueroa Streets and is $10 per vehicle. FREE ADMISSION! Photo of CAAM gallery by Gene Ogami

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Shopping nearby. Through Dec. 4 Asco: Elite of the Obscure, a Retrospective, 1972–1987. Continuing Contested Visions in the Spanish Colonial World; California Design, 1930–1965: “Living in a Modern Way”; Monet/Lichtenstein: Rouen Cathedrals; Mural Remix: Sandra de la Loza; Glenn Ligon: AMERICA; Edward Kienholz, Five Car Stud 1969–1972, Revisited; Ai Weiwei: Circle of Animals/Zodiac Heads. M–Tu, Th noon–8 pm, F until 9 pm; Sa–Su 11 am–8 pm. Closed W. $10– $15, under 18 free. LACMA West free. LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd.; LACMA West, 6067 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 museum of contemPorAry Art Premier contemporary art venue. Continuing Naked Hollywood: Weegee in Los Angeles (GA); Kenneth Anger: Icons (GA); Hedi Slimane: California Song (PDC); A Tribute to Beatrice and Philip Gersh: Gifts to the Museum of Contemporary Art (GA); Under the Big Black Sun: California Art 1974–1981 (GC); Theaster Gates: An Epitaph for Civil Rights (GC). Ongoing A Selection of Works From MOCA’s Permanent Collection (GA). M, F 11 am–5 pm; Th 11 am–8 pm; Sa–Su 11 am–6 pm. Pacific Design Center, Tu–F 11 am–5 pm, Sa–Su until 6 pm. $5–$10, under 12 free. Free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; Geffen Contemporary (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Gallery at Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12 museum of toLerAnce Exhibits examine prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust and humanrights issues. Continuing Para Todos Los Niños: For All the Children; Freedom’s Sisters. Ongoing Finding Our Families, Finding Ourselves. M–Th 10 am–5 pm, F until 3 pm; Su 11 am–5 pm. $11–$15, under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11

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nAturAL history museum of Los AngeLes county Thirty-three million objects from dino fossils to fish. See paleontologists preparing fossil specimens at Dino Lab. Age of Mammals is the permanent exhibition. New Dinosaur Hall. Continuing Spider Pavilion, 11/2/11 4:40 PM with free-roaming spiders. Daily 9:30 am–5 pm. $2–$9, under 5 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., downtown, 213.763.3466 Map K15 norton simon museum Stellar collection of Renaissance to 20th-century masterworks and sculpture garden. Continuing Proof: The Rise of Printmaking in Southern California; The Original Print: An Introduction to Printmaking in the Postwar Period. W–M noon–6 pm. $5–$10; students with photo ID, children under 18 free. 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.6840 Map Q19 skirbALL cuLturAL center The American Jewish experience; stunning views. Continuing Women Hold Up Half the Sky; Masters of Illusion: Jewish Magicians of the Golden Age; Pearls of Wisdom: End the Violence. Ongoing Visions and Values: Jewish Life From Antiquity to America; Noah’s Ark at the Skirball. Tu–F noon–5 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–5 pm. $5–10, children under 2 free. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

Shopping Destinations

ome to the Aquarium of the Pacific where you and your family can get in touch with nature and marine life, any time you want. Touch sharks. Feed lorikeet birds. Watch sea lions play. Over 11,000 animals await you. aquariumofpacific.org 562 . 590 . 3100 100 AQUARIUM WAY, LONG BEACH, CA 90802

the AmericAnA At brAnd Huge downtown Glendale hot spot with Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere and trolley from the creators of The Grove. Ninety stores and dining options. Boutiques include a Tiffany & Co. concept store, Kate Spade and Kiehl’s; other draws include Barneys CO-OP and Pacific Theatre cinema. Brand Boulevard and Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map southeast of T23 beVerLy center Trend-setting mall near West Hollywood has 160 boutiques (Tiffany & Co., Forever 21, Fendi, Henri Bendel, Prada) and restaurants including the Capital Grille. Anchors include Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. La Cienega and Beverly boulevards, L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12

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Shopping deL Amo fAshion center More than 300 stores with Macy’s and MAC, and 18 movie screens. High-tech Lucky Strike Lanes draws a young crowd for hip bowling, and TJ Maxx draws bargain hunters of all ages. 3525 Carson St., Torrance, 310.542.8525 Map D2 fAshion district This downtown neighborhood is a bargain hunter’s paradise. More than 1,000 stores sell to the public at 30%–70% discounts on apparel, accessories, textiles and flowers. Between Main and San Pedro streets; Olympic Boulevard and 7th Street, downtown, 213.488.1153 Map J16 fred segAL A multitude of international trends since 1968 began in what may be L.A.’s most famous store, an emporium of individually owned boutiques. Café and salon are popular for shoppers and drop-ins. 8100 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.3734; 420 and 500 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.394.9814 Map I13, L8 gLendALe gALLeriA Family-oriented mall with department stores and boutiques including Nordstrom, Crabtree & Evelyn and Vans Colorado Boulevard and Central Avenue, Glendale, 818.240.9481 Map U23 the groVe Popular outdoor center has more than 50 shops, a Barneys CO-OP, Nordstrom and nine restaurants in a setting that suggests a grand old downtown. Movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are draws. The Wall Street Journal rates concierge services No. 1 in the nation. Adjacent to Farmers Market. 3rd Street and Fairfax Avenue, L.A., 323.900.8080 Map I13 hoLLywood & highLAnd center Home of the Academy Awards’ Kodak Theatre. Tinseltown-themed retail, dining and entertainment center features several restaurants, cinema, high-tech bowling lanes and stores such as Louis Vuitton and Lucky Brand Jeans. Hollywood Boulevard and Highland Avenue, Hollywood, 323.467.6412 Map H13 JeweLry district Retailers offer 50%–70% savings on gems, watches and fine jewelry. At the St. Vincent’s Jewelry Center (645–650 S. Hill St.), you’ll find 500 jewelry merchants. Between Hill Street and Broadway, from 5th to 8th streets, downtown Map I16

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mAnhAttAn ViLLAge This mall by the shore features a Diane’s Beachwear as well as a Macy’s and Macy’s Men’s and Home. Concierges assist with taxies, strollers and even lottery tickets. 3200 Sepulveda Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.546.5555 Map L13 one coLorAdo Outdoor plaza with boutiques such as Gold Bug, Kate Spade, Juicy Couture, Papyrus, Armani A/X and deluxe movie theater Gold Class Cinemas. Refuel after retail therapy at Italian restaurant Il Fornaio or Sushi Roku. 24 E. Union St., Old Pasadena, 626.564.1066 Map Q19 PAseo coLorAdo Outdoor shopping promenade near Old Town features Jigsaw London, Tommy Bahama and big bargains on designer clothes at Loehmann’s. Los Robles Avenue and Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, 626.795.8891 Map Q20 PromenAde on the PeninsuLA Trilevel open-air shopping center in peaceful Palos Verdes boasts Equinox Fitness Club & Spa, J. Crew, White House/Black Market, Restoration Hardware and more. Cinema, iceskating rink and casual dining. 500 Deep Valley Drive, Palos Verdes, 310.541.0688 Map O13 sAntA monicA PLAce Sleek outdoor mall at one end of Third Street Promenade, two blocks from Santa Monica State Beach. Anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. Fifty boutiques including 7 for All Mankind, CB2 and Barneys CO-OP. Rooftop Dining Deck with food court, six restaurants and gourmet market. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8

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South CoaSt Plaza High-end center boasts nearly 300 boutiques, 30 restaurants and several spas. Stores include Chanel, Gucci, Valentino, Chloé, Jimmy Choo, Christian Dior. Concierge at five locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map 6E SunSet Plaza Upscale row of boutiques and sidewalk cafes is L.A.’s Euro hang. Calypso, Catherine Malandrino, Chez Bop, Ole Henriksen spa and H. Lorenzo stores. 8600–8700 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood Map H12 third Street Promenade Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes Zara, French Connection, Restoration Hardware, kiosks and a wide array of very entertaining street performers. 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, Santa Monica Map L8 two rodeo Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features Versace, James Elliot and other high-end boutiques, plus restaurants including 208 Rodeo and salon services. At Rodeo Drive and Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11 weStfield Century City Sleek open-air mall with more than 175 stores, including Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Tiffany & Co. Luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen, beautifully designed food court atrium and terrace. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.3898 Map J11 weStSide Pavilion Center south of Westwood Village is anchored by Nordstrom and Macy’s. Landmark theater is the country’s most spectacular indie cineplex. 10800 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.474.6255 Map J11

Tickets & Information 6763 Hollywood Blvd. (between Highland & McCadden) 1-866-361-8999 www.CitySightsLA.com

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anaStaSia Beverly hillS Celebrity brow guru Anastasia Soare’s beauty haven offers facials plus brow shaping and other waxing services. West L.A. spa has full-service hair and nail salon. 438 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.273.3155; 11933 Wilshire Blvd., West L.A., 310.479.8300 Map J11, K9 BliSS SPa Hotel spa goes hip. Full-service spa also includes nail stations, expansive boutique with Bliss products. Sauna, steam showers. W Westwood, 930 Hilgard Ave., Westwood, 310.443.8228; W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 877.862.5477 Map J10, H14

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Ciel SPa Heavenly, all-white retreat at the SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills does face, body, nail and hair treatments. Access to fitness center and Altitude pool deck. Steam room, showers. 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.246.5560 Map I12 Kate Somerville SKin health exPertS Hollywood’s favorite facials are offered in a feminine salon on superexclusive Melrose Place. 8428 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, 323.655.7546 Map I12 le PoSh Salon/SPa/lounge Sleek spa looks more like a Hollywood lounge than a Zen retreat. Face and body treatments in the spa; hair, nail and makeup services in the salon. 7551 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.851.5558 Map H12 ole henriKSen faCe/Body SPa Full-service spa to the stars specializes in face and body care and also offers nail and makeup services. Co-ed steam room. Sunset Plaza, 8622 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 310.854.7700 Map H12

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SPa luCe Spa in the heart of Hollywood boasts access to rooftop pool. Facial and body therapies plus nail, makeup and hair services. Steam room. Renaissance Hollywood Hotel & Spa, 1755 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.491.1376 Map H13

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Nightlife spa montage The last word in luxury spas. Also includes Kim Vo Salon, Gornik & Drucker barber shop and fitness facilities. Sauna, steam room, whirlpools, showers. 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7800 Map J11 Tikkun spa Traditional Korean spa with contemporary style. Three co-ed sweat rooms plus sauna, whirlpool, showers. 1460 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.319.1111 Map L8

Look for our helpful Downtown Ambassadors for maps and information!

Nightlife THE ABBEY Fixture of the WeHo gay scene serves flavored martinis galore. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12 ALIBI ROOM Modern neighborhood bar; serves food from Kogi, a trendy Korean barbecue truck. 12236 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.390.9300 Map M10 AKBAR Gay bar is a “neighborhood oasis” with Moroccan murals, mellow music. 4356 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.665.6810 Map W23 the association The gang from Bar Copa and the Room turn out another nightlife mainstay. 110 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.627.7385 Map I16 BAR CHLOE Parisian-inspired lounge nearby Third Street Promenade. 1449 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.899.6999 Map L8 BAR MARMONT Dreamy bar next door to historic Chateau Marmont. 8171 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.0575 Map H12 bar noir Kelly Wearstler-designed lounge in boutique hotel. Maison 140, 140 S. Lasky Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.281.4000 Map J11 basement tavern Underground speakeasy in a Victorian abode; live music. The Victorian, 2640 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.4956 Map M8 bigfoot lodge Kitschy log-cabin-themed watering hole. 3172 Los Feliz Blvd., Atwater Village, 323.662.9227; Bigfoot West, 10939 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.287.2200 Map northeast of V23, M11 THE BRIG Former dive bar has new look. DJ on weekends. 1515 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.399.7537 Map N9 Broadway Bar 1940s glam. Huge circular bar downstairs; lounge upstairs. 830 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.614.9909 Map I16 caña RUM BAR at the doheny Premium rum bar with some 140 small-batch rums and cigar pairings. 714 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.745.7090 Map I16 city tavern Brews, California wines and cocktails. Booths outfitted with computerized craft brew taps; patrons pour their own. 9739 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.838.9739 Map L11 copa d’oro Design-your-own cocktails from a list of farmers-market ingredients. 217 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.576.3030 Map L8 corkbar Wine bar focuses on California wineries; 40-something wines by the glass. 403 W. 12th St., downtown, 213.746.0050 Map J15 Drai’s Vegas nightlife king Victor Drai’s flashy rooftop spot. W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.962.1111 Map H14 eagle rock brewery Family-run microbrewery with tasting room. 3056 Roswell St., Eagle Rock, 323.257.7866 Map northeast of W23

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the edison Posh renovated power plant. Get there early—especially for the 35-cent cocktail offered Thursdays, 5–7 pm. Dress code. 108 W. 2nd St., downtown, 213.613.0000 Map H17 1886 Artisan cocktails inside retro restaurant the Raymond. 1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.441.3136 Map S19 eL rey theAtre Hot indie bands play art deco theater on Miracle Mile. 5515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.936.6400 Map J13 hArVArd & stone Fine cocktails in a grittychic industrial space. 5221 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.466.6063 Map W22 hemingwAy’s Sumptuous library-styled lounge. 6356 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.0040 Map H14 high Boutique hotel’s rooftop bar with 360-degree views of Venice Beach. Hotel Erwin, 1697 Pacific Ave., Venice, 310.452.1111 Map N9 hoteL cAfe Tiny gem offers live rock music. 16231/2 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.2040 Map I14 house of bLues Name bands in faux bayou setting. 8430 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.5100 Map H12 h. wood Comfy lounge with cocktails ‘n’ chess; open during day as coffee shop. 1738 N. Orange Drive, Hollywood, 323.871.2262 Map H13 hyde SBE lounge that spawned offshoots around the country. Reservation recommended. 8029 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.656.4933; Hyde at Staples Center, 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7326; Hyde Beach at Gladstone’s, 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades 310.454.3474 Map I14, I15, northwest of K7 JAmes’ beAch Pickup scene, super food. 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice, 310.823.5396 Map N9 Jones Dimly lit hipster magnet serves up Italian food and stiff drinks. 7205 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.850.1726 Map L13 LA descArgA Cuban-inspired rum bar. Live band and dance performances. Reservation recommended. 1159 N. Western Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.1324 Map east of H14 LArgo At the coronet Comedy and music. Reservation needed for shows. 366 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.855.0350 Map I12 LAs PerLAs Festive tequila and mezcal bar with sophisticated cocktails. 107 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.988.8355 Map I16 LAugh fActory Famed comedy nightclub. 8001 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.656.1336; 151 S. Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.2844 Map H12 LibrAry bAr Classy nook with book theme is after-work go-to. 630 W. 6th St., downtown, 213.614.0053 Map H16 mohAwk bend New. Hipster bar in the shell of an art deco theater with more than 70 craft beers on tap. 2141 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.483.2337 Map south of W23 the otheroom Microbrews and wines by the glass, New York City-style. 1201 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.396.6230 Map N9 the roger room Hidden speakeasy with creative cocktails. 370 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.854.1300 Map J12

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Tours +Transport THE ROXY Historic rock ‘n’ roll venue on the strip. 9009 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.2222 Map H12 RusH sTREET Culver City’s full of wine bars, but this huge Chicago-style hangout has all the libations. 9546 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.837.9546 Map L11 sEVEN GRAND Whiskey bar with tongue-incheek hunt-club décor. 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0737 Map I16 skYbAR Chic open-air roost with a view at the Mondrian hotel. Reservations required. 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.6025 Map H12 THE spARE ROOm Lounge-cum-rec room with bowling lanes and fab cocktails. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.769.8882 Map H13 THE sTANDARD DOWNTOWN Rooftop bar with panoramic city views, pool, vibrating red waterbeds. 550 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.892.8080 Map I16 THE sTANDARD HOLLYWOOD Lounge with swinging seats, glowing purple walls. 8300 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.9090 Map H12 sTONE ROsE LOuNGE Rose-hued lounge at Sofitel hotel. 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.278.5444 Map I12 THE TERRACE Old Hollywood ambience poolside; cabanas. Sunset Tower Hotel, 8358 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.654.7100 Map H12 THiRsTY CROW Classy whisky and bourbon bar. 2939 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.61.6007 Map south of W23 TROpiCANA bAR Poolside hot spot at the Roosevelt Hotel. 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 Map H13 TROubADOuR Historic spot books up-and-coming alt-rock and local bands. 9081 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.6168 Map H12 VAmpiRE LOuNGE & TAsTiNG ROOm Gothic wine bar with Vampire Vineyards wines, small plates and cheeses. 9865 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.826.7473 Map I11 THE VARNisH The mixing of Prohibition-era cocktails is an art form at this bar in the back of Cole’s diner. 118 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.622.9999 Map I17 VOYEuR Provocative, Eyes Wide Shut-inspired lounge; burlesque shows. 7969 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.255.1111 Map I13

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WuRsTkÜCHE Exotic sausage and beer hall is a popular, boisterous neighborhood hangout. Try the duckbacon-jalapeño frank. 800 E. Third St., downtown; 625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice. 213.687.4444 Map I17, M9 X bAR Indoor-outdoor playpen for CAA and ICM talent agents. Hyatt Regency Century Plaza, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.228.1234 Map J11

Tours + Transport ANOTHER siDE OF LOs ANGELEs TOuRs A wide variety of focused tours, organized by interest—i.e. whale watching, shopping, celebrity homes—or mode of transportation (kayak, Segway, horseback, helicopter). 1102 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 800.311.8987 AmTRAk Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations. Nationwide connections, multiple-day rail passes.

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Tours +Transport Stations in Burbank, downtown (Union Station), Long Beach, Pasadena and Van Nuys. The Coast Starlight connects L.A. to Ventura, Santa Barbara, San Francisco, Portland and Seattle. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com Beverly Hills Rent-a-Car Luxury and exotic rentals with pickup service. Hollywood, 323.822.0969; Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; LAX, 310.670.2020; Marina del Rey, 310.862.1900 Beverly Hills Trolley Tour Forty-minute tour of landmarks, attractions; departs from Rodeo Drive and Dayton Way. Call for schedule. $5–$10. 310.285.2438 Map J11 bikes AND hikes L.A. Biking and/or hiking tours of highlights from Santa Monica to Hollywood in customizable or preset itineraries. Exclusive Bike & Hike Sail Adventure includes all three activities. Half- or full-day bike rentals. 8743 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.796.8555 Map I12 California Yellow Cab Transportation in sedans, town cars, minivans to/from airports, restaurants, nightlife, attractions, shopping destinations. 877.935.5692 CityPass Hollywood CityPass offers discounted admission to Starline Movie Stars Homes Tour, Behind-the-Scenes Hollywood walking tour with Red Line Tours, Hollywood Wax Museum and either the Kodak Theatre tour or Hollywood Museum access. $59, ages 3–11 $39, under 3 free. Purchase pass at attractions. Southern California CityPass ($259) includes admission to theme parks from L.A. to San Diego. 888.330.5008, citypass.com METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach. Underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to Pasadena; Blue Line from Union Station to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach. $6 day pass. 800.266.6883, metro.net Metrolink Regional train system connects Los Angeles County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com Starline Tours Movie Stars’ Home Tour, Trolley Fun Tour, Grand Tour of L.A. New TMZ Hollywood Tour is a multimedia experience highlighting scenes of celebrity scandals. Prices vary. Tours begin at Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131 Map H13 Take My Mother Please Enthusiastic, “curly headed” Arkansas native packs up to five of your visiting relatives (or other VIPs) in a new hybrid SUV for customized tour of “gloriously unusual” sights. 323.737.2200 tourific escapes Husband-and-wife team offer sightseeing and food tours such as Hollywood Sites and Bites and Chocolate Indulgence. Prices vary. 424.248.8687, tourificescapes.com Urban Shopping Adventures Group tours of Melrose Heights, downtown Fashion District. Transportation, shopping tips, maps, goody bags. $36–$54. 213.683.9715 Map I1

where?

Log on anywhere. WhereLA.com WHERE LOS ANGELES 113

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GO METRO Despite what you may have heard, you can get to many Los Angeles attractions without a car. Metro is the nation’s second-largest public transportation agency, operating 2,200 buses and five rail lines, including a subway that can take you from downtown to Hollywood in about 15 minutes. Whether you’re interested in seeing stars along the legendary Hollywood Walk of Fame, catching rays at Santa Monica Beach or touring any number of L.A. landmarks, Metro can take you there.

Where to Start

Use the Trip Planner at metro.net or call 323.GO.METRO for customized travel itineraries. Note that some popular attractions served by Metro Rail are listed to the right.

Fares

Metro’s base fare is $1.50. Pay each time you board a Metro bus (drivers don’t carry change, so you’ll need exact fare) or at a self-service ticket vending machine when entering Metro Rail stations. For complete information, check metro.net. Two children under the age of 5 may travel free with each fare-paying adult. Eating and drinking is not permitted on any Metro bus or train. Note: Metro has installed turnstiles at many Metro Rail stations; others simply operate on the honor system. However, fare inspectors randomly check passengers for valid tickets or passes. You may never be checked, but if you are and you don’t have proof of valid fare, the inspector may issue a citation and you may be fined.

Hours

Most bus and rail lines start around 4 a.m. and keep running past midnight. But they’re less frequent in the late evening, so check the timetables at metro.net regarding your return trip.

Metro Rail Destinations

Here’s a sampling of attractions that are within easy walking distance of Metro Rail stations: METRO RED/PURPLE LINE Union Station • Olvera Street

Civic Center • Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels • Museum of Contemporary Art • Music Center • Walt Disney Concert Hall 7th Street/Metro Center • Macy’s Plaza (dining, shops) Hollywood/Vine • Capitol Records Tower • Hollywood Walk of Fame • Pantages Theatre Hollywood/Highland • Grauman’s Chinese Theatre • Hollywood & Highland (dining, shops) • Kodak Theatre Universal City • Gibson Amphitheater • Universal CityWalk (dining, shops) • Universal Studios Hollywood North Hollywood • El Portal Center for the Arts • NoHo Arts District (dining, shops, theatres)

METRO BLUE LINE

Pico • Los Angeles Convention Center • STAPLES Center/L.A. LIVE 103rd Street • Watts Towers Transit Mall • Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific • Pine Avenue (dining, shops) • Queen Mary

METRO GOLD LINE

Little Tokyo/Arts District • Japanese American National Museum Memorial Park • Norton Simon Museum Lake Avenue • Pasadena Playhouse SEE THE METRO ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 119

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30 things we love Los Angeles

Festive happy hour cocktails (including the Heirloom melon margarita) at Taberna Mexicana in Beverly Hills. p. 85

The kooky relics at The Museum of Jurassic Technology in Culver City. 310.836.6131

The movie star Homes loop tour from CitySights L.A. 866.361.8999

seeing concerts at retro Fox Theatre in pomona. 909.784.3671

The six adjacent shops that make up Lost & Found in Hollywood. p. 56

a trip to the make Up lesson recording studio at Make Up For Ever on robertson Boulevard. 310.289.1758

Fabulous! Ten Years of FIDM Museum Acquisitions: 2000–2010 at FIDM Museum & Galleries downtown (through Dec. 17). 213.623.5821

avant-garde shoes from Maison Martin Margiela in Beverly Hills. 310.284.8093 Olive oil-accented cuisine at Fig & Olive in West Hollywood. p. 84 The Berry Caliente cocktail at NineThirty at the W los angeles Westwood. 310.443.8211 Getting a makeover at Blushington Makeup and Beauty Lounge in West Hollywood. 310.652.5874 Holiday treatments such as the sugar plum Facial at the Ritz-Carlton Spa, Los Angeles downtown. 213.743.8800

where in the world

Fab cocktails and bowling at The Spare Room in Hollywood. p. 112 Guacamole prepared tableside at Rosa Mexicano in West Hollywood. 310.657.4991 a mani-pedi from the Nail Bar at the Beverly Wilshire Hotel in Beverly Hills. 310.385.7023 Thought-provoking exhibits at the Museum of Tolerance in West l.a. p. 107 Hot rods at Petersen Automotive Museum in the miracle mile District. 323.930.2277 Handmade ballet flats from Pretty Ballerinas in Beverly Hills. p. 41

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com United StateS Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

shopping at Zadig & Voltaire and H. lorenzo at Sunset Plaza in West Hollywood. p. 48 David Feau’s creative deconstructed dishes at The Royce in pasadena. p. 78 a facial—any facial— from Thibiant Beverly Hills. 310.278.7565 Flannel shirts and records from Standard Goods on Beverly Boulevard. 323.965.0600 lavender shortbread cookies from The Trails cafe in Griffith park. 323.871.2102

Expert brow shaping at Anastasia Beverly Hills in West l.a. p. 109 Zip-line canopy tours in san Gabriel from Navitat Canopy Adventures. 855.628.4828 The Jungle Garden at the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens in san marino. p. 106 ice skating in downtown santa monica via Ice at Santa Monica. p. 100 The Dim sum sunday menu at WP24 downtown. p. 86

Visiting the art galleries in downtown Culver City. p. 42

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington, D.C. aSia Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore Canada Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg eUrope Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

22, mark lipski

musicals and dance performances at the glamorous Pantages Theatre in Hollywood. 323.468.1770

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Moonstruck Astronomical wristwatch. Self-winding. Moon phases. Platinum case. Water-resistant to 100 m. Leather strap with folding buckle. Limited Edition of 500 pieces. W W W . U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M

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