Choose regular needle size by fabric weight When selecting a needle for regular sewing, start with needle size. European needles range in size from 60 to 120, which refers to the diameter taken on the shaft right above the eye. American needles are sized from 8 to 19 in an arbitrary numbering system, and paired with corresponding European sizes: for example, 60/8 or 70/10; the larger the number, the larger the needle. Determine needle size by fabric weight. Choose a size 60/8 needle for lightweight fabrics similar to georgette or organdy; a 70/10 or 80/12 needle for medium-weight jersey, Lycra, linen, or calf leather; a 90/14 and 100/16 for heavy fabrics like jeans, vinyl, upholstery or canvas; and 110/18 or 120/19 for very heavy fabrics. After choosing needle size, match the needle point to your fabric. The needle type and name is usually determined by the characteristics of the needle's point. Thread should pass easily through eye of needle How smoothly the thread pulls though the needle's eye is also a factor in producing even, regular stitches. So if you have trouble threading the needle and problems with the stitches, the thread and needle aren't matched correctly. Lay your thread in the needle’s front groove; it should “snuggle” in. In the end, most sewers just want to get professional-looking results. Knowing more about needles brings you closer to that goal, since needle choice greatly affects your outcome. For every correctly chosen, new needle you put into your machine, you should have eight to 12 continuous hours of trouble-free sewing
Sewing-Machine Needles: An Overview
Learn to recognize the many types of standard, decorative, and special-purpose machine needles. Discover what each is best for, and how to troubleshoot problems Standard needles The configuration of these needles is based on the particular fabric to be sewn. Universal needle Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics. Configuration: Has slightly rounded point and elongated scarf to enable almost foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin hook. Troubleshooting: When fabric is not medium-weight woven, consider needle specifically suited to fabric. For example, size 18 universal needle works on heavy denim, but size 18 jeans needle works better. Ballpoint and stretch needles Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater knits; stretch needle for highly elastic fabrics, like Spandex, or Lycra. Configuration: Both have rounded points that penetrate between fabric threads rather than pierce them. (Stretch-needle point is slightly less rounded than ballpoint.) Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to see which doesn't cut yarn and yields best results. If ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle. Microtex and sharp needles Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather; precisely stitching edges; and heirloom sewing. Configuration: Has an acute point. Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free, but fabric may require a Teflon, roller, or even/dual-feed presser foot Leather needle Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather. Configuration: Has slight cutting point (almost like an arrowhead). Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather, unless it's very heavy synthetic, cuts rather than pierces stitch hole and can tear leather. Most synthetic leathers require Microtex or sharp needle.
Denim (jeans) needle Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, canvas, upholstery fabrics, artificial leather, and vinyl. Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute point, and modified shaft to sew without pushing fabric down into needle-plate hole. Goes through fabric and meets bobbin hook better on dense woven fabrics. Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle and sew more slowly or walk needle through fabric (by turning hand crank). Handicap/self-threading needle Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers with vision problems. Configuration: Universal needle with slip-in threading slot at the eye. Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece back away from needle before cutting thread so needle doesn't unthread. Needle works well on woven fabrics, but may occasionally snag knits, so test-sew to check for fabric and needle compatibility.
Sewing Machine Needle Sizes Understanding the numbers associated with sewing machine Needles will help you make the correct choice and possibly solve machine problems.
All the numbers associated with sewing machine needles can stop you in your tracks. It's actually a simple labeling system; the confusion comes in because they are using a European and American labeling system. •
The American system uses 8 to 19, 8 being a fine needle and 19 being a thick heavy needle.
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European sizes range from 60 to 120, 60 being a fine needle and 120 being a thick heavy needle.
Now let's look at fabric associated with needle size. •
Think of a fine sheer window curtain. You will need a fine needle such as a 8/60 needle. Using a 19/120 would leave holes in the fabric.
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Now let's look at heavy upholstery fabric. If you were to try and sew through upholstery fabric with a 8/60 needle, it would bend or break. Using a 19/120 provides a needle strong enough to penetrate the fabric and carry a thread strong enough for this type of fabric.
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Now let's look at a combination … You have a lightweight fabric but you want to do a heavy topstitching detail with heavy thread. Normally the heavy thread would call for you to use a heavy needle such as a 120/19, but that would leave holes in your fabric. Now you would experiment with a needle that falls somewhere in the middle such as an 80/12.
Always test your thread and fabric combination on scraps of fabric rather than the item you are working on. Consider the needle as dangerous as a scissors going into your fabric.
You may find a needle size listed as 90/14 or 14/90. The order of the numbers does not effect the size. Choosing the Right Sewing Machine Needle
If you have ever had difficulty piecing a garment or quilt, you know how important your choice of needle can be. This primer will give you an overview of the type of sewing machine needle you should choose for your project. As a general rule, always select the needle size to accommodate the thickness of the thread being used and the needle point style to accommodate the type of fabric. Needles range in size from a very thin and flexible 60\8 to a heavy-duty needle 120/19. (Needle sizes are not the same for regular home machines and commercial machines.) Just like thread, most needles use a two number identification system to define the needle shaft diameter. The higher number measures the diameter in fractions of a millimeter. The lower number is the numbering system used in the U.S. You should always change your needle after 6 - 10 hours of sewing. Consult your sewing machines user manual and use the needles they recommend. If you are changing to a specialty needle for a specific task, store your regular needle in a pincushion, not in a drawer or on the floor. We sell the various types of Sewing Machine Needles here. There are eleven basic types of needles: • Universal Point Needles are a great all-purpose needle. This needle has a very slightly rounded tip that is still sharp and can used for general sewing of most knit and woven fabrics. Use 60/8 for silks; 70/10 for lightweight fabrics or when using nylon or monofilament thread; 80/12 for medium weight fabrics; 90/14 for medium to heavyweight fabrics or when paper piecing; 100/16 for heavyweight fabrics and 110 for upholstery fabrics. Singer codes this needle with a red top. • A Ballpoint or Jersey Needle has a slightly more rounded tip than a Universal. It is not as likely to snag knits and stretch fabrics. • A Stretch Needle also has a rounded tip. It's specially shaped shank creates good stitch formation on elastic or highly elasticized fabrics such as spandex. Use a 70/ 10 needle. This is also a good needle for faux fur and fleece. Use a 90/14 needle. • A Quilting Needle has a slim, tapered point and slightly stronger shaft for stitching through multiple fabric layers and across intersecting seams. Use a 70/10 or 80/12 for intricate designs. Use a 90/14 if your quilt sandwich is thick. • A Sharp Point Needle (also called a Microtex needle) is thinner and sharper than the universal point. It makes a perfect straight stitch. Use it on very fine fabrics (including high thread count quilting cotton material) and chintz. It is an excellent all purpose needle for piecing, appliqué and quilting. An 80/12 is fine for general piecing and machine quilting. If you are using tiny threads (like bobbin,
lingerie, invisible) in machine quilting, use a size 60/8. Singer codes this with a purple top. • A Skip-free Needle has a deeper groove above the eye (scarf) and flatter shank than a Universal. Good for synthetic knits and faux suede. Use an 80/12 needle. • A Jeans or Denim Needle has a very sharp tip, slender eye and a strong shaft. This is good for sewing on tough, heavyweight fabrics such as denim, duck and canvas. Use a 90/14 or a 100/16 needle if sewing on these fabrics; a lighter 70/10 or 80/12 if sewing on cotton. Singer codes this with a blue top. • A Leather Needle has a shape like a wedge at the point which makes a clean, large hole as it enters the fabric. This gives it good piercing power for unyielding fabric such as real leather, suede or heavy vinyl. Use a 110/18 needle. • Embroidery Needle This needle has a larger eye, a slightly rounded point and a deep scarf (groove above the eye) to protect decorative thread from shredding or breaking. Slightly rounded point; long eye. Use a 70/10 needle for dense embroidery. • A Metallica Thread Needle has a larger Teflon coated eye which reduces friction but still accommodates heavier threads and reduces spitting and shredding on delicate metallic threads. Use a metallic needle when sewing with monofilament or invisible thread. Put a cover or cap on the spool so it doesn't unwind. • A Topstitching Needle has an extra-large eye and deeper groove for use with heavier topstitching thread, when using multiple threads through the needle, or using decorative threads. Use size 80/12, 90/14 or 100/16 depending on the application. The larger eye helps with trilobal threads, such as Superior Rainbows. For free motion quilting, use a 90 or 100 needle with a slightly looser top tension. There are also Special-purpose Needles such as: • A Spring needle which is used for machine quilting. It has a wire spring above the point to prevent fabrics from riding up onto the needle when the presser foot is removed and the feed dogs are dropped. Spring needles can be purchased in most of the types and sizes listed above. • Twin and Triple Needles are generally used in garment sewing. Two or three needles are put on a single crossbar to create perfectly parallel, multiple rows of stitching in one pass using a single bobbin thread. Spacing between the needles varies from 1.6mm to 8mm wide. They are numbered first by the distance in millimeters between the needles and second by the size of the needle. • Wing or Hemstitch Needles are designed for decorative stitching on tightly woven fabrics. Wide wing blades or fins on each side of the shank create openings in tightly woven fabrics such as linen and batiste fabric to resemble entredeux trim. Wing needles are available as singles or as twins that have a wing needle and a standard needle on a single crossbar. • Serger Needles vary by machine. Some take specialty needles and some will accept regular machine needles. Check the manual! Universal Point Needles This is the needle you will probably use for piecing. It has a very slightly rounded point that is quite sharp and a long needle scarf (groove above the eye). Good for both cottons and knits. Order Schmetz Universal 10/70 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $2.99 Order Schmetz Universal 11/75 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $2.99
Order Schmetz Universal 12/80 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $2.99 Order Schmetz Universal 12/80 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $2.99 Schmetz Sharp Microtex With a very sharp point for perfectly straight stitches. Perfect for fine cottons, high thread count fabrics such as batiks, and silks; also, top stitching and edge stitches. Order Schmetz Sharp Microtex 70 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.39 Order Schmetz Sharp Microtex 8/60 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.39 Order Schmetz Sharp Microtex 10/70 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.39 Order Schmetz Sharp Microtex 12/80 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.39 Order Schmetz Sharp Microtex 14/90 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.39 Quilting Needle This needle has a specially tapered point designed for stitching through multiple layers and across intersecting seams. It prevents damage to sensitive, expensive materials used in quilting. The 75 needle offers better stitch quality and control when machine quilting. The 90 needle excels at sewing thick layers of crossed seams in quilting or patchwork. Order Schmetz Quilting 11/75 Quilting Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.99 Order Schmetz Quilting 11/75 & 14/90 Quilting Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.99 Order Schmetz Quilting 14/90 Quilting Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.99 Embroidery Needles This needle has a larger and longer eye and a special deep front groove (called a scarf) as well as a slightly rounded point to protect decorative threads from shredding or breaking. Especially designed to accommodate the newest metallic and other embroidery threads. This needle virtually eliminates stripping and splitting of these specialty threads. Order Schmetz 75/90 Embroidery Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.99 Order Schmetz 11/75 Embroidery Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.99 Order Schmetz 14/90 Embroidery Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.99 Order Schmetz 11/75 & 14/90 Embroidery Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $4.99
Metallic Thread Needle Designed for the use of metallic threads, this needle has a larger eye and long groove (scarf) for trouble-free sewing. A large eye accommodates heavier thread and makes threading easier. The special scarf prevents the shredding and/or splitting of the delicate threads during stitch formation. Virtually eliminate thread breakage when stitching dense embroidery designs. Use with monofilament/nylon, metallic, and other decorative threads. Order Schmetz Metallica 12/80 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $5.80 Order Schmetz Metallica 14/90 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $5.80 Schmetz Self Threading (also known as Handicap needles) For people having difficulty threading needles. 5 per card. Order Schmetz Self Threading 12/80 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $5.49 Order Schmetz Self Threading 14/90 Sewing Machine Needles (package of 5) for $5.49 Singer Red Band Needles Regular point needles are also called universal needles. They are suitable for all woven and knit fabrics. The larger the size, the heavier the needle. . Four Style 2020 Needles for lightweight woven fabrics, size 9/70. Order Singer Red Band 9/70 Needles for $3.31. Four Style 2020 Needles for woven fabrics, size 80/11. Order Singer Red Band 11/80 Needles for $3.31. Four Style 2020 Needles for medium weight fabrics, size 90/14. Order Singer Red Band 14/90 Needles for $3.31. Singer Yellow Band Needles Singer Yellow Brand ball point needles are the ideal needle to use on knit fabrics. The larger the size, the heavier the needle. Fits most standard home sewing machines. Six needles, two of each size (80/11, 90/14 and 100/16) Order Singer Yellow Band Needles for $5.11 Four needles in two sizes (70/09 and 80/11) Singer Yellow Band Needles for $3.91
Needle Sizes and Suggested Thread for Different Fabrics Ultra-lightweight fabrics, such as silk, muslin, some thin knits and interlocks, crepes, calico cottons •
Needle Size: 9 – 11 or 65 - 75
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Thread: Lightweight cotton, polyester or nylon thread
Medium-weight fabrics, such as satin, light woolens, general sewing cottons for quilts and garments
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Needle Size: 12 or 80
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Thread: General thread
Heavier medium-weight fabrics, such as denim, duck, terrycloth, woolens, and other cottons or natural fabrics •
Needle Size: 14 or 90
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Thread: General Thread
Heavyweight fabrics, such as canvas, quilted and prefabricated fabrics, light upholstery fabric, heavy denim •
Needle Size: 16 or 100
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Thread: General thread
Heavy fabrics, such as leather, vinyl, heavy woolens, upholstery weight fabrics •
Needle Size: 18 or 110
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Thread: Heavy duty thread
Leather, imitation leather and vinyl Needle Size: Leather needles in assorted sizes. These will leave smaller holes in the fabric than the other larger needles. •
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Thread: Heavy duty thread
Knits for sweaters and swimsuits Needle Size: Ball point needle. This helps to push the interlock strands aside when sewing. •
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Thread: General or specialty thread
Polyester and knit blends, interlock, tricot, single and double knits •
Needle Size: Semi-ball point needle. Scarfed semi-ball point needle.
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Thread: General or specialty thread
Thread for your sewing machine
Types of thread • Cotton Suitable for light to medium-weight fabrics which have little or no stretch to them. Cotton thread will not 'give', and the stitches may break if used on a stretchy knit fabric Polycotton This thread is usually labelled 'all-purpose' and is the thread you will see most frequently in fabric shops. It's suitable for all types of fabric and for both hand and machine sewing •
Polyester Most suitable for synthetic fabrics or fabrics with a lot of stretch to them. The finish of this thread, however, can appear waxy or shiny •
Silk Silk thread is more elastic than cotton, so opt for silk if your fabric has stretch to it. Use on very thin or delicately woven fabrics such as those used for lingerie or sheer garments •
Heavy duty Used for sewing projects that require extra strong and durable stitches, such as upholstery, using very heavy or stiff fabric. •
Choosing thread colour Choose a colour of thread that matches the most dominant colour in your fabric. If you can't find a perfect match, select a thread one or two shades darker. Stitches made with a lighter shade of thread will stand out more. Help with choosing your needle and thread There are several places you can get advice on choosing the right-sized needle and thread for your sewing machine. • Many sewing patterns recommend fabric, needle sizes and threads for their specific projects •
Ask for help from haberdashery staff when buying your fabric or pattern
Check the instruction manual of your sewing machine as this will usually contain a guide to needle sizes and thread. •