inGamba Ride Journal

Adventure writer | inGamba Guest | Bill Gifford | WELCOME | i

Adventure writer | inGamba Guest | Bill Gifford | WELCOME | i

© 2013 INGAMBA This is our work. We share it with you, and we ask you to please respect it and not share it with others. This is what the lawyers would say: All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written consent of inGamba, except in the case of brief quotations in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to us addressed “Attention: inGamba Permissions,” at the address below.

INFO@INGAMBA.PRO W W W.INGAMBA.PRO Printed locally in Mill Valley California by Ram EDITORIAL DIRECTION | Beth Strickland PUBLICATION DESIGN | Soo Kim COVER PHOTOGR APHY | Brad Sauber COVER SUBJECT | inGamba guest Jason Liddell, 180km into the 2012 l’Eroica inGamba Tours 268 East Blithedale Avenue Mill Valley, CA 94941 America

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Adventure writer | inGamba Guest | Bill Gifford | WELCOME | v

“ This was the trip that I thought only existed in my mind – a perfect blend of riding, eating, and experiencing the true culture of Tuscany – then toss in a great group of fellow riders and the arrival of a few unannounced guests from the pro peloton” | Michael Scher

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T H E F E A S T by Bill Strickland | Editor-at-Large | Bicycling Magazine | inGamba Guest

What is the most delicious road you’ve ever ridden? Was there a meal that lay always before you like a spool of expensive ribbon unrolling to a far horizon that sometimes effortlessly drew you on and at others put you at your limit as you chased an end that seemed as if it would never come? Do you remember on a sun-drenched road reaching down to the cage for your bottle and getting a sip of water that was as fine as any wine you’ve ever had, and have you ever been lucky enough to taste a wine as intoxicating as a mouthful of cold water chugged from your bottle when you unclipped on a crisp early morning mountaintop?

The ride is the food is the wine is the people at inGamba. The roads are succulent and bountiful, and the food and wine leave you breathless. The Pinarello bikes are to the highest standard of the purest gourmand. The personalities are rich and bold, yet full of subtle surprises. All is to be savored—and devoured.

You are sated—and hungry for one more hill, one more delicacy, one more unforgettable character, one more new lifelong friend, one more perfect descent on a perfect bike, one more chance to doze off on the massage table, to lounge on a patio overlooking a terra-cotta tiled roof that itself overlooks a green mountainside that overlooks a valley at the bottom of which a farmer practices his own art.

Zuilio, the neighbor just up the hill and around the corner makes his own wine from his own yard grapes. He insists you take a bottle.

Lorenzo, the baker with one blue eye and one brown feeds you treats that are all delicious but each good in a way none of the others are. Raul stands at the end of the table and as he works into your muscles he lays his head against your knee and plucks and strums and hammers on you fiber by fiber, and if you happen to look down the length of your torso at him, you see that his eyes are closed. He is playing an instrument, and the instrument is you. You wish you could hear the song he is hearing. By the second morning when you walk into Enoteca Rinaldi, Paolo knows what coffee drink you want and is preparing it before you can ask for it. When he gives the cup across the counter to you, there is a manner in his movements that says you are doing him a great honor to drink his coffee.

Take all of that and turn it into a road, and that is every ride you will do. Have you ever had such a feast? You can. You should.

You are about to.

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W E L C O M E by João Correia

It was an idea born on a ride in the fall of 2010 during my last season as a pro with the Cervélo Test Team. After spending the year living in Chianti, watching what I ate and focusing on my training, I realized I was unable to fully enjoy the bounties of this region I love so much.

One day after riding I sat with a glass of wine at Paolo’s, the local enoteca, and sketched on a placemat my idea of a “perfect week”. I wanted to live that perfect week, but I also wanted more. I wanted to share it. This is the week you are about to experience.

A typical day with inGamba begins with a cappuccino at Paolo’s, a place Bicycling magazine describes as “so inside Italy that it technically doesn’t have a name.” After exploring the hills of Chianti by bike, you can look forward to an afternoon with a leisurely lunch, massage and rest before dinner at one of my favorite restaurants or perhaps a friend’s house.

The goal of an inGamba trip is to spend a week cycling on incredible roads so that we can eat spectacular food and drink amazing wine guilt-free. Your trip will be fully supported by a soigneur and a mechanic who will not only take care of your body and bike, but make you feel part of a family. Finally, our insider’s perspective will allow you to revel in unique cultural outings and excursions to secret locales.

There is something about the beauty of this area, the quality of the cuisine and the warmth of the people that just connects with me. I’m confident it will connect with you as well. Thank you for taking this journey with us.

Warm regards,

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CIAO

M A N G I A eat

THE FEAST >> 4 Bill Strickland

BORGOLECCHI >> 12 Jered Gruber

WELCOME >> 6 Jo達o Correia

PAOLO >> 20 Bill Gifford

ALESSANDRO STELLA >> 32 Heidi Swift

IL MAGNIFICO >> 28 Bill Gifford

TRAVEL GUIDE >> 68

B E V E drink

B I C I ride

CASTELLO DI AMA >> 44 Heidi Swift

D AY 1 BADIA A COLTIBUONO >> 18

ZUILIO >> 52 Ashley Gruber

D AY 2 PANZANO >> 26 D AY 3 CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA >> 30 D AY 4 CASTELLINA >> 36 D AY 5 GREVE DUDDA >> 42 D AY 6 CRETE SENESI >> 48 D AY 7 MONTELUCO >> 54 D AY 8 L’EROICA 130KM >> 60 D AY + 1 L’EROICA 205KM >> 64 RAUL >> 24 Heidi Swift SERVICE COURSE >> 46 Matt Phillips NATE & LUIS >> 50 PROS >> 56 Laurens ten Dam & Ted King Adventure writer | inGamba Guest | Bill Gifford | WELCOME | 9

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B O R G O L E C C H I by Jered Gruber | Features Editor | Peloton Magazine | inGamba Guest

Their business card says simply: Your Tuscan home away from home.

And at the Borgolecchi, truer words were never written…or felt. It’s rare to leave your familiar household, travel a dozen hours, end up in a foreign country and find yourself, well...right at home. We spend months on the road every year, foreigners for most all of it. When we come to Borgolecchi though, we’re one of the locals. The door opens and two faces light up with smiles as we’re engulfed in the warmth of a friendly embrace. It feels like we belong here, like we’ve always lived with them, like we had only left for the day and were returning from a quick trip to Firenze.

The greeting from Anna and Morgaro—proprietors of the Borgolecchi—is an instant and wondrous kindness. I’m writing this in the living room of the Borgolecchi after finishing another delicious dinner. Conversation was animated with discussions ranging from the best way to make a fruit salad...to sloths...to their dog Ettore’s pleading face...to cauliflower—and on and on. It makes me happy to be here.

Anna and Morgaro go out of their way to spoil us. It’s the burden of the guest at the Borgolecchi—they put everyone before themselves.

The level of service, the cooking (oh, the cooking!), it’s all fantastic.

I can’t count how many times I’ve walked into the kitchen around noon only to see Morgaro hard at work with the dinner we’ll be eating in eight hours. Like anything Italian, the focus on food is evident. Along with traditional fare, there are special touches such as Florentine steak as thick as your arm, grilled over the open fire in the living room, or a late-evening picnic overlooking the Chianti hills. It’s sigh-inducing, even when you’re here.

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DIARIO Daily Journal

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// DAY ONE //

A R R I VA L // B A DI A A C OLT IBUONO R IDE

1 Your first ride on the Pinarello Dogma will take you down the hill from Lecchi toward the town of Gaiole where l’Eroica and the professional Strade Bianche race begins each year. Gaiole is also the start of a gentle 7km climb to the Badia a Coltibuono, an abbey founded in 1051 by the patron saint San Giovanni Gualberto. It is now owned by the Stucchi-Prinetti family— friends of João and his wife Tiiu, and the site of their 2004 marriage. From Coltibuono you will enjoy a nice descent into Radda before turning home toward Lecchi. The short option, which includes a moderate climb to the Brolio castle and winery, provides a small taste of what Chianti riding has to offer.

DISTANCE >> 30km (short option: 20km) ELEVATION >> 550m (short option: 300m) HIGHLIGHTS >> Badia a Coltibuono STARTING TIME >> 9:00am

BADIA A COLTIBUONO

20 km

RADDA N

10 km

GAIOLE

30 km

LECCHI

Max Elevation

693.0 m 645.0 516.0 387.0 258.0 129.0 0 km LECCHI

8 km GAIOLE

14 km BADIA A COLTIBUONO

21 km RADDA

31 km LECCHI

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> Borgolecchi, Lecchi in Chianti FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> Borgolecchi, Lecchi in Chianti FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

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P A O L O by Bill Gifford | Adventure writer | inGamba Guest

Chianti is as hilly and rugged as West Virginia, but with slightly better wine. Most of the little villages are located on hilltops, including Lecchi, our home for the week. That means finishing every ride with a two-mile climb back to town. At the top, though, salvation awaits in the burly form of Paolo Cioni and his endless platters of prosciutto and bruschetti and free-flowing wine.

The proprietor of Enoteca Rinaldi, Paolo serves as Lecchi’s de facto mayor. He is a towering guy with a deep voice and biceps like tree branches, as if he had hauled all the building stones to this hilltop village by himself. It’s not much, maybe 20 stone houses clinging to the hillside, and one narrow main street, with views like the otherworldly background of the Mona Lisa. Paolo’s place is the heart and soul of the village, and probably the best post-ride refueling stop in Chianti; cyclists stop by all day long.

Paolo himself is a strong, enthusiastic rider—a few years ago, he used the bike to help him lose 50 pounds. He still gives a good draft, so find his wheel and try to hang on. The olive oil that he makes each fall, enlisting friends to harvest the local groves, is rustic and perfect. A five-liter tin of it somehow made it home in my luggage intact, and I savored every drop.

“I love this part of the world,” João said one night, over wine. “ I came from Portugal, grew up in New York, but this is the only place where I’ve ever felt truly at home.”

After a few days in Lecchi, we all had to agree.

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“There is a great symmetry between the physical effort of riding the amazing roads of Chianti and the reward of eating and drinking the very best that the area has to offer.� | Kevin Irvine

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“Raul may be a soigneur, but that’s just a facade. He’s one of life’s rare human beings that will have you in hysterical laughter in the blink of an eye.” | Peter Cracknell

R A U L by Heidi Swift | Editor-at-Large | Peloton Magazine | inGamba Guest

You come to inGamba knowing you will get massages from a professional soigneur. You think of this as a set of hands and a moment of relaxation. You imagine yourself closing your eyes after a hard ride—a bit of kneading and pressure sorts you out. Instead, you get Raul. Raul the leg whisperer. Raul the clown. Raul the mime.

Raul the comedian. Raul the lover. Raul the great. Raul forever.

You fall in love with him. You can’t help it. Neither could I. And he loves you, too. Because that is why he breathes. To take care of people. To take care of you. To take care of me. The word “soigneur” means “one who takes care of others”. This is not just about massage.

Everyone who meets Raul will learn that. Everyone who meets Raul will learn something they did not know about how to love each other as human beings. His is a selfless, devoted, invested kind of care.

Raul takes care of my legs every day that I am in Tuscany.

On some days he also rides with me, observing the way I climb or shift gears. When we climb with fast groups he puts a hand on my lower back and takes the edge off of my threshold effort. He always asks for permission first. When I run out of water, he hands me a fresh bidon from his cage. When the fireworks go off in the front of the group, he sometimes gets caught up in the fray. Then he sits up, supermans on his saddle and drifts back to me. Laughing.

Later when he works my calves he props my leg up on the table and leans his head against my knee—eyes closed—and disappears into his work. There is a conversation shared between fingers and muscles as he kneads his way into the very details of mypedaling, the shadowy forms of my doubts and insecurities, the secret hopes guarded in my heart. By the time he’s done, he knows more about me than I intended.

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// DAY T WO //

2

PANZANO RIDE DISTANCE >> 75km (short option: 55km) ELEVATION >> 1150m (short option: 850m) STARTING TIME >> 9:00am MADONNA DI PIETRACUPA

After testing your Dogma—and your legs— on some shorter, but challenging climbs, we’ll stop for coffee in the small town of Panzano. It’s the home of the famous butcher Dario Checchini who is also the godfather to Alessandro Stella’s (the philosopher shoemaker) son Tobias. If you’re in a hurry to see what Paolo has prepared for lunch, there is an optional ride that cuts out 20km and 300 meters of vertical ascending from our regular loop.

50 km

PIAZZA

40 km

PANZANO

N

LUCARELLI 30 km 60 km

CASTELLINA VILLA RADDA

20 km

BADIA A COLTIBUONO

70 km 10 km

LECCHI

GAIOLE

Max Elevation

693.0 m 670.0 536.0 402.0 268.0 134.0 0 km LECCHI

9 km GAIOLE

22 km 31 km 43 km 57 km 67 km VILLA LUCARELLI PIAZZA CASTELLINA RADDA 14 km 36 km 48 km BADIA A PANZANO MADONNA COLTIBUONO DI PIETRACUPA

75 km LECCHI

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> Paolo’s, Lecchi in Chianti FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> Palazzo Pretorio, San Donato in Poggio FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

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I L M A G N I F I C O by Bill Gifford | Adventure writer | inGamba Guest

We were in a very hot place, underground, and the diabolical figure confronting us was short and squat, bald and muscular.

When he laughed, which was often, his entire scalp reddened, including his big ears. The only clues that Lorenzo was a baker rather than the devil himself were his white Crocs and the pinup calendar tacked to the wall. He flipped open the doors to a massive oven— one of the biggest and oldest in Siena—and a blast of heat hit us in the face. Reaching into its depths with a long wooden paddle, Lorenzo pulled out a baking sheet filled with his family’s legendary contucci, golden biscuits made for dunking in vin santo, the fragrant dessert wine. With a big smile, he waved the steaming cookies, fragrant with orange zest and almond, under my nose.

We were trapped in the bowels of Il Panifico Magnifico, a famous Sienese bakery; our exit was blocked, literally, by a table already groaning with contucci plus at least five other types of cookies including chewy almond moons called ricciarelli, dusted in powdered sugar. In addition, there were a dozen still-warm pannetone, fluffy orange cakes each the size of a basketball. We could not simply walk out of this room. We had to eat our way out.

But it wasn’t long before someone sliced into one of the orange cakes—just to be polite, you know. João filled a plastic cup with vin santo and dunked one of the biscotti into it. Big smile.

Others followed his example. I picked up one of the powderedsugar cookies and bit into it; in my mouth, it melted into a warm, sugary almond goo. Yes, please, I will have five more… Soon we were stuffing cake and cookies into our faces by the fistful, as our livers whirred back into the red zone. The table began to empty.

We were all sweating profusely, thanks to the heat from the oven, but we didn’t care anymore.

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// DAY T HR EE //

CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA RIDE

3

DISTANCE >> 50km ELEVATION >> 600m (short option: 450m) HIGHLIGHTS >> Siena STARTING TIME >> 9:00am

Today is a bit of a rest day on the bike as the group heads out on João’s traditional coffee shop ride.

Expect gentle rolling hills and plenty of time for onthe-bike conversation or some horsing around by Raul as we make our way to Castelnuovo Berardenga.

The famous battle of Monteaperti was fought here in 1260, and today the town is alive with a street market. Don’t forget to stash your Giordana cap in your jersey pocket. It’s a fashion accessory must for a proper espresso stop.

LECCHI 40 km

LA MADONNA

N

10 km

SAN GUSMÉ 30 km

SAN PIERO 20 km

CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA

Max Elevation

Max Elevation

522.0 m

522.0 m

480.0 400.0 320.0 240.0 160.0 0 km LECCHI

8 km LA MADONNA

18 km SAN PIERO

27 km 38 km CASTELNUOVO LA MADONNA BERARDENGA 32 km SAN GUSMÉ

47 km LECCHI

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> Paolo’s, Lecchi in Chianti FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> il Porri-One, Siena FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

Siena is one of the nation’s most-visited tourist attractions and has been declared a World Heritage site

by UNESCO. The city has its roots in Etruscan times and is well-known for its art, fashion, museums and cuisine. It is likely most known, however, for the annual Palio horse race which is run around the Piazza del Campo. The city is divided into 17 contrada or wards, represented by an animal or mascot, each with its own church, museum, fountain, colors and coat of arms.

Twice a year—on July 2 and August 16—rivalries are most rampant as they battle for supremacy around the main square. Professional jockeys ride bareback in this brutal competition. The winner receives a Palio, a painted banner bearing the image of the Madonna. A new Palio is commissioned by well-known artists for each race.

It is the center of Sienese life and the after-party can last for months. InGamba guests are fortunate to be invited to visit the inner walls of the Lupa Contrade where you can begin to understand the significance of this institution in the lives of its members.

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A L E S S A N D R O S T E L L A by Heidi Swift | Editor-at-Large | Peloton Magazine | inGamba Guest

Alessandro Stella makes shoes. Stunning, immaculate, breathtaking handmade shoes.

What does a shoemaker have to do with cycling? Nothing.

Everything.

One afternoon after riding you go to Sienna to meet him in his shop.

He’ll show you his work, show you his process, smile at you and laugh, speak to you in his lovely accented English. You’ll crowd into the tiny space, shoulder to shoulder with your riding mates and marvel at the smell of leather and the aesthetic precision that surrounds you on every side.

Alessandro is a man with lively hands, quick eyes and a generous heart. If you’re lucky, he will turn up at dinner later. If you’re really lucky, he’ll tell you a few stories from the road. And if you’re really, really lucky, he’ll have a few glasses of wine and begin to talk to you about life in abstract terms: there is a philosopher hiding in this shoemaker.

Maybe he tells you the story of what it was like to descend 15,000 feet on a bike from Tibet into Nepal, maybe he doesn’t. What does a shoemaker have to do with cycling? Nothing. Everything.

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ALESSANDRO STELLA 35

// DAY F OUR //

CASTELLINA RIDE

4

DISTANCE >> 75km (Short option: 65km) ELEVATION >> 1000m (Short option: 800m) HIGHLIGHTS >> Cooking Class STARTING TIME >> 9:00am

We change things this morning and start up the hill from Lecchi where we will climb toward the town of Radda before turning to Castellina. The earliest definition—in 1716—of the wine area of Chianti, Lega del Chianti, is the region we explore on today’s ride.

This will be a day of truly incredible views from the bike, especially when we turn left toward Colombaio.

Once back on the main road toward Gaiole there is a shorter option, which cuts out 200 vertical meters and takes you straight into Lecchi where Paolo is waiting with lunch.

10 km

RADDA 20 km

CROCEFLORENTINA N

70 km

LECCHI QUERCEGROSSA 30 km

60 km

LA MADONNA

40 km

CORSIGNANO

50 km

PONTE A BOZZONE

PIANELLA

Max Elevation

628.0 m 650.0 520.0 390.0 260.0 130.0 0 km LECCHI

8 km RADDA

18 km CASTELLINA

50 km 66 km 75 km 40 km LA MADONNA LECCHI CORSIGNANO PONTE A BOZZONE 56 km 30 km QUERCEGROSSA PIANELLA

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> Paolo’s, Lecchi in Chianti FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> Borgolecchi, Lecchi in Chianti FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

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“A place of cultic importance in the wine world. We Italians often complain that we do not have our own Chateaux Margaux, our Romanée Conti, our Opus One. But we are wrong, for we do have here in Italy some wine ‘houses’ that are something better, something beyond the normal cellar. Relatively few, perhaps, but true domains of Bacchus where everything is utterly flawless, where time assumes the feel of history, the memory of timeless impressions, the quintessential ingredient in the evolution of wine.

Castello di Ama is one of those places where one encounters the Platonic absolutes (…)” | Carlo Cambi | Il Buon Vino

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// DAY F I V E //

GREVE RIDE

5

DISTANCE >> 80km (short option: 50km) ELEVATION >> 1400m (short option: 775m) HIGHLIGHTS >> Castello di Ama Tour STARTING TIME >> 9:00am 40 km

It’s time for you and your bike to explore the beauty and brutality of Chianti’s mountains. Although the region is built on hilly terrain (hence the moniker “hill town”), today’s ride will include more sustained climbing. Watch out for Raul as we ascend our secondhighest point of the week.

He’s been known to get a bit frisky on the rise to 758 meters. Following the climb from Dudda we will descend toward Radda, passing Albola for a fast, technical descent that will test even the mostexperienced riders. The 50km option is the standard short ride from João’s training days. It climbs to Panzano before meandering on a small road to Radda and a gentler way back to Lecchi.

DUDDA CREVE 50 km 30 km N

PANZANO

LUCARELLI 20 km

60 km

BADIA A COLTIBUONO

VILLA 10 km

70 km

GAIOLE

LECCHI Max Elevation

759.0 m 664.0 498.0 332.0 166.0 0 km LECCHI

13 km VILLA

22 km 33 km LUCARELLI GREVE 27 km PANZANO

42 km DUDDA

59 km 66 km 31 km VILLA BADIA A LECCHI COLTIBUONO 31 km GAIOLE

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> Paolo’s, Lecchi in Chianti FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> Castello di Ama, Ama FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

Our evening at Castello di Ama introduces the two core aspects of Ama. The wine production with a visit to the wine cellar, and a cultural “reading” of the significant presence of contemporary art on the estate from artists such as Louise Bourgeois, Nedko Solakov and Kendell Geers. Following the visit we will have the pleasure of dining as guests of Lorenza and Marco in their private dining room enjoying the culinary masterpieces of Paola and Giovanni, Ama’s chefs. Dinner will be accompanied by some selections from Ama’s cellar including Al Poggio, Chianti Classico and their latest release Haiku.

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C A S T E L L O D I A M A by Heidi Swift | Editor-at-Large | Peloton Magazine | inGamba Guest

When my hosts from inGamba Tours took their group to visit Castello di Ama, a local winery, I tagged along. I’ll spare you the exhaustive description of the organic symmetry of the vineyards or the way the sun backlit the group as we walked east across the grounds. It’s a magical place, but what part of Tuscany isn’t?

More striking than the sprawling estate, ancient buildings or intimate collaborations with specific artists, was the woman at the head of it all: Lorenza Sebasti. Refined, articulate, gracious, elegant, warm and passionate, she seemed to embody everything I’ve begun to fall in love with in this part of Italy. I sat at her right hand throughout dinner and watched her command the table full of men with a presence that was soft and firm at the same time.

When Lorenza speaks, you get quiet. You listen.

She spoke of history and innovation and soil and inspiration—and of her instant love affair with the land when she first visited at the age of 15. She discussed the grapes and processes with the knowledge of a scientist, the fervor of an artist and the affection of a lover. She has changed fundamental things about the production of Chianti. She’s challenged convention while respecting tradition.

Together with her husband, the winemaker, they have constantly elevated, innovated and evolved every aspect of their work and life.

She never said it directly, but the point was taken: never settle.

We were talking about wine, but we were also talking about life and love and family and inspiration and an existence so permeated with meaning that most of us can only begin to understand it. It’s about ambition, but not as we understand that word in the United States: it is about ambition balanced with real, honest respect for passion. It’s about making your life the way you want it to be while honoring a calling that exceeds your own existence. Have a purpose outside yourself. For God’s sake, do what you are meant to be doing. And do it well.

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S E R V I C E C O U R S E by Matt Phillips | Test Director | Bicycling Magazine | inGamba Guest

The building is old and worn, but clean and cared for. When replicated in Las Vegas and McMansions, a scrubbed patina looks offensively fake, but the real thing is gorgeous and comforting and sad. The ghosts of people and moments of life have infused the wood and stone here with many good and beautiful memories.

Only at the threshold is there a black stain of sadness. Those looks before leaving this place for the last time, knowing, perhaps, it will never be seen again; they color the ground.

Inside, the Pinarellos hang, waiting to wake up and swoop out, darting and pirouetting across the land, dazzling with fluid precision like the swallows that nest in the eaves. In the morning, stacked up neatly against the stone they are anticipation: Where will the ride take me? What wonders will I see? What little cafe will we happen across? What beautiful swooping descent will I fly down, jersey flapping in the wind, starched and white from the glorious sweat that earned me this memory?

Upstairs, RaulStrong stirs. He will animate the ride this morning and soothe muscles this afternoon. Because he is RaulStrong.

From the doorway Paolo can be seen across the street drawing creamy espresso from a hissing machine.

The door to this building is ancient and heavy. It is strong because this place and these bikes must be kept safe. At the end of the day, the door feels heavy and reluctant to close. Closing the door means the riding is done. But every morning, the door is light and flies open so the Pinarellos may rush out. The building wants your memories in its walls too: grab your bike and go make some.

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// DAY SI X //

CRETE SENESI RIDE

6 Riding the first five days has taken you through deep forest with incredible panoramic views of undulating terrain.

Today’s ride will take you south toward the town of Montalcino where the rolling Tuscan clay-colored views of postcards will be in full effect. This is the Crete Senesi, a region known for its production of white truffles. We have prepared two ride options for those who want to save their energy for tomorrow’s challenge. The shorter ride skips the biggest climb while cutting out 20km and 300 meters of elevation.

DISTANCE >> 105km (short option: 80km) ELEVATION >> 1100m (short option: 800m) STARTING TIME >> 9:00am LECCHI 100 km

LA MADONNA

10 km

90 km

PIANELLA 20 km

MONTIAPERTI CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA 80 km

COLONNA DEL GRILLO

MUCIGLIANI

70 km

30 km N

PALAZZUOLO

40 km

RAPOLANO TERME

ASCIANO

60 km

CALCIONE 40 km Max Elevation

598.0 m 556.0 417.0 278.0 139.0 0.0 0 km LECCHI

77 km 17 km 39 km 57 km 105 km COLONNA DEL MONTEAPERTI ASCIANO CALCIONE LA MADONNA 11 km 28 km 47 km 66 km GRILLO 85 km 105 km PIANELLA MUCIGLIANI RAPOLANO PALAZZUOLO CASTELNUOVO LECCHI TERME BERARDENGA

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> Paolo’s, Lecchi in Chianti FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> Le Panzanelle, Lucarelli FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

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NATE & LUIS

Nate’s our lead guide, our handyman, our juggler. He’s the guy that keeps things moving at inGamba. He also has an uncanny ability to know what our guests want and need before they know it themselves.

His passion in bicycle riding lies not in being the first to the finish line (although he’s been known to “drop the hammer” on occasion), or even enjoying the ride for the ride’s sake, but rather in helping you to enjoy the ride for the ride’s sake. One of Nate’s greatest pleasures is seeing a big grin on a rider’s face and reading their anticipation as they wonder what’s beyond next banked curve or what’s just over the horizon. He rides just for the joy of feeling the wind in his face, his heart pounding in his chest, and the not-quite silent sound of tires on the smooth Chianti roads. Nate is small of stature, yet big of heart—and it is here that he finds inner peace.

If you find yourself consumed by the simple euphoria of pedaling a bicycle and need to have a heart-to-heart, Nate’s your man.

Luis is one of the best mechanics you’ll ever meet. He came to inGamba this year to take the place of Jorge who went on to wrench for Team Garmin on the Pro Tour circuit. Luis is a stickler for perfection and is unflinchingly precise about his work. We think that’s a pretty good trait to have in a mechanic. When he’s not fixing bikes, laughing or playing tricks on Raul, Luis is raising canaries. And because Luis doesn’t settle for second-best in anything, he’s even raised a few World Champion canaries.

(Yes, there is indeed a World Championships for canaries. Go figure.)

There’s a race photo of Luis attacking the peloton in 1993 and João going after him. We’re not disclosing how that scenario ended up, but 20 years later, Luis is a big part of the inGamba family.

Just as it is with Raul, João and Luis go back a long way. The bonds formed, confidences built and kinship shared from a relationship that spans 20 years is important to how we do things here.

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Z U I L I O by Ashley Gruber | Writer/Photographer | inGamba Guest

At the upper end of Lecchi there’s a small cluster of stone buildings where Zuilio and his wife preside over a piece of olive and grape heaven. They’ve seen a few years, but it hasn’t slowed their eagerness to chat and introduce you to their land. Dozens of rabbits, chickens, a turtle and a cat abound, seeking your attention.

Zuilio takes a special pride in telling you about his family history.

It doesn’t matter if you understand Italian; he will try to communicate, and somehow, you get it. He’ll offer his organic olive oil and wine, underlining that there are no chemicals inside.

It’s a community effort to get all the grapes down each year. Friends have picking parties and shops close their doors. At harvest time, a dozen friends arrive to Zuilio’s land, and the grapes find their way from branches to basket to barrel.

If you come in the fall you can turn from the doorway into the sparkling sun and see the grapes drying for his delicious vin santo.

On the right day, just as the sun is going down, with the light flickering through the lightly breezed leaves, you’ll smile, and be perfectly content.

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// DAY SE V EN //

MONTELUCO RIDE

7 Today will not only take us to the highest point on the trip (Monteluco at 790 meters), but it’s also our longest ride.

Make sure you pack your pockets with some of Raul’s tasty rice cakes before heading out.

The final downhill from the summit of Monteluco is known in the region as one of the mostintoxicating, sexy descents. Take your time and enjoy it. We do this ride to earn the Bisteca Florentina that Anna and Morgaro will prepare for our final dinner.

The short option tackles the Monteluco in the first half of the ride.

DISTANCE >> 116km (short option: 75km) ELEVATION >> 1700m (short option: 1400m) HIGHLIGHTS >> Fiorentina Menu at Borgolecchi STARTING TIME >> 9:00am 40 km

PANZANO 30 km

PIAZZA

N

LUCARELLI

MADONNA DI PIETRACUPA

20 km

50 km

VILLA

BADIA A COLTIBUONO GAIOLE

10 km

60 km

CASTELLINA

LECCHI

CASTAGNOLI 100 km MONTELUCO

BELVERDE 80 km

70 km

PONTE A BOZZONE

90 km

SAN GUSMÉ

PIANELLA Max Elevation

816.0 m 752.0 564.0 376.0 188.0 0 km 9 km 22 km 57 km 43 km LECCHI GAIOLE VILLA PIAZZA CASTELLINA 14 km 31 km 48 km BADIA A LUCARELLI MADONNA DI COLTIBUONO 36 km PIETRACUPA PANZANO

75 km 90 km 105 km PONTE A SAN GUSMÉ CASTAGNOLI 67 km BOZZONE 116 km 99 km BELVERDE 80 km MONTELUCO LECCHI PIANELLA

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> Paolo’s, Lecchi in Chianti FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> Borgolecchi, Lecchi in Chianti FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

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“To be honest riding with João is the best week of my riding season. The fun at the dinner table, the wines and the perfect riding area makes it a dream week for me.

Totally unstressed, but really well trained I’ll return to my race season.” | Laurens ten Dam

Laurens ten Dam | Professional Cyclist | Team Blanco | inGamba Guest | PROS 57

“Please pardon this terribly perfect analogy, but inGamba runs the absolutely perfect (wait for it)... cycle. You arrive anxious and eager to soak in the entire week’s adventure in southern Tuscany, so the first day you’re bursting out of bed and onto the bike. You come home that evening after one of the most amazing rides of your life sinuously weaving through the Chianti hills and you’re famished. So João has arranged one of the best meals you’ll ever eat from a restaurant you’ve certainly never heard of nor would you have ever found left to your own devices. Rest, repeat, raise to the power of amazing, and multiply times 7—or however many days your trip is. Every greeting is familial and heartwarmingly organic, every detail covered. Every bite, every pedal stroke, and every sip you’ll remember for the rest of your life.” | Ted King

Ted King | Professional Cyclist | Cannondale Pro Cycling Team | inGamba Guest | PROS 59

// DAY EIGH T //

L’ E R O I C A 1 3 0 K M R I D E

8 If travel schedules allow it, we will do a morning ride from Lecchi.

Plan to say goodbye to your hilltop home about 2.5 hours before your flight’s departure.

DISTANCE >> 130km ELEVATION >> 1200m STARTING TIME >> 9:00am GAIOLE 10 km

LA MADONNA 120 km

FORMACELLA 110 km

PIANELLA

100 km

20 km

SAN GIOVANNI

CASTALNUOVO BERARDENGA

SAN PIERO

90 km 30 km

PICCOLOMINI

N

40 km 80 km

ASCIANO

RADI 50 km

VESCOVADO

70 km 60 km

PONTE DARBIA Max Elevation

437.0 m 470.0 376.0 282.0 188.0 94.0 19 km 100 km 0 km 31 km 48 km 66 km 118 km PIANELLA PICCOLOMINI RADI 54 km PONTE DARBIA CASTALNUOVO FORMACELLA GAIOLE 10 km 83 km 130 km BERARDENGA VESCOVADO LA MADONNA 21 km ASCIANO GAIOLE 109 km SAN GIOVANNI SAN PIERO

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> Borgolecchi, Lecchi in Chianti FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

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// E X T R A DAY //

+1 l’Eroica is perhaps our favorite event of the year.

We treasure these white roads and often take detours on rides to make sure we hit some of the sections. They are often the highlights for many of our guests since they can’t experience these roads at home. Here we present to you the 205km version of l’Eroica but we will only take you on a few stretches along this route.

Of course you get to do it on a modern bike and not on a pre-1987 bike like we use for the actual event.

L’ E R O I C A 2 0 5 K M R I D E DISTANCE >> 205km ELEVATION >> 2400m STARTING TIME >> 8:00am RADDA

200 km NN

GAIOLE

190 km

LA MADONNA 10 km

180 km

FORMACELLA

LUCIGNANO CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA 170 km 160 km

20 km

PIANELLA

SAN PIERO

150 km

30 km

PICCOLOMINI

ASCIANO

40 km

140 km 130 km 50 km

PONTE DARBIA 110 km 60 km

120 km

VESCOVADO BUONCONVENTO 70 km Max Elevation

100 km

TORRENIERI 80 km

90 km

MONTALCINO

636.0 m 640.0 480.0 320.0 160.0 0.0 0 km 20 km 54 km 95 km 126 km 161 km 194 km GAIOLE PIANELLA VESCOVADO TORRENIERI PONTE DARBIA CASTELNUOVO RADDA 31 km 83 km BERARDENGA 178 km 202 km 9 km 121 km PICCOLOMINI MONTALCINO GAIOLE LA MADONNA BUONCONVENTO FORMACELLA 16 km 143 km 169 km LUCIGNANO ASCIANO SAN PIERO

RIDE NOTES >>

LUNCH >> FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

DINNER >> FOOD >>

WINE >>

NOTES >>

THOUGHTS >>

65

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GUIDA Travel Guide

69

SMALL THINGS

FLIGHTS Florence International Airport (FLR) will be your arrival and departure airport. Upon arrival, we will be waiting for you outside the door once you pass through Customs. The drive to Lecchi from Florence is about 1 hour.

There are no direct commercial flights to Florence from the United States.

We recommend flying Swiss, Lufthansa or Air France. Swiss transfers through Zurich; Air France through Paris; and Lufthansa through Munich or Frankfurt. It’s a short flight into Florence from those airports.

We can also pick up at Florence Santa Maria Novella Train Station or your hotel in Florence. Should you wish to arrive at another airport (Pisa 2 hours), Bologna (2 hours) Rome (3.5 hours) we can arrange for a chauffeur pickup (Pisa and Bologna: 250 Euros, Rome: 450 Euros).

WHEN TO ARRIVE AND DEPART If you prefer to arrive or depart a day earlier or later we will pick you up at your convenience and transfer you to Lecchi. You can stay at our B&B for an additional $375 per person the day before or after the trip (all meals included). If you’d like to spend a day in Florence we recommend the Lungarno Collection of Hotels owned and operated by the Ferragamo family (lungarnocollection.com).

CELL PHONES In order to use your cell phone in Europe, roaming should be turned on.

Please confirm that you have a dual band phone. To avoid a large bill when you return home, you should either turn off data or have a roaming data plan.

ELECTRICITY Electricity in Italy is 220 volts (vs. 110 in the U.S.). The sockets are also different, so you’ll need to pack a foreign power adapter in order to use small electronic devices designed to run on dual voltages.

If your device is designed to run only on 110-120 volts, you will need a power converter or transformer.

OUR ITALIAN CONTACT NUMBER Please program these numbers into your phone before you leave. Also, make sure your family has them.

João: +39 345 967 7220 (Italy) João: +1 (917) 859-7085 (U.S.; also works in Italy) Borgolecchi: +39 0577 630 527.

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA inGambaTours

inGamba

@inGambaTours

Strava/clubs/inGamba-tours

INTERNET & LAUNDRY You will have complimentary wireless access at our B&B and throughout the town of Lecchi. We provide all of our guests with complimentary daily laundry and folding service.

BIKES AND CLOTHING We have a fleet of 2014 Campagnolo-equipped Dogmas from Italian bike-maker Pinarello for our guests to experience Chianti on two wheels.

You will receive a full Giordana cycling kit worth about $600, as well as a few other goodies which are yours to keep. Bikes are assigned at the time of booking on a first-come basis.

ITINERARY Prior to your arrival you will receive an itinerary to whet your appetite for what’s ahead. We will also provide a daily schedule each evening for the next day of your trip, but are often flexible with schedules. We like to get to know our guests and finalize specifics based on what will give them the experience of a lifetime. We’ve also been known to delight guests by throwing in a surprise or two.

TRAVEL GUIDE 71

SMALL THINGS

ON-BIKE SUPPORT Before each day’s ride, you can fill your jersey pockets with tasty homemade snacks that Raul has prepared and wrapped to fuel you through the day, or choose from a selection of Clif Bar. There will also be filled water bottles waiting for you each morning with Osmo Active Hydration. A vehicle with food, drinks and bike tools will follow each day’s route to provide support. And your on-bike guides might even put a friendly hand on your back for that two-second boost you need to hang on the pro’s wheel.

TRIP PRICING Our Chianti Mangia, Beve, Bici trips are priced based on double occupancy: Couples Trip, $9,900 per couple; Spring Trip, $5,950; Chianti and La Pinarello Granfondo, $6,750; Chianti and l’Eroica, $7,650.

Our Portugal Randonnée Trip is $7,800, based on single occupancy.

CANCELLATION POLICY Life happens and we understand that plans can change. Should you need to cancel your trip, please call us and we will be as accommodating as possible, including issuing you a refund or a credit toward a future trip.

Some of our trips have wait lists, so with enough notice we can generally fill your spot.

Our lawyer did tell us to have an official cancellation policy.

Here it is: The initial deposit is non-refundable. Balances are subject to the following cancellation policy: 50% refund if canceled at least 30 days prior to the trip. For cancellations made less than 30 days prior to the departure, no refunds can be made.

WHAT TO BRING

RIDING CLOTHING Shorts 2 Short-sleeve jersey 2 Long-sleeve jersey 1 Socks 2 Summer gloves 2 Long-finger light gloves 1 Arm warmers 1 Leg warmers 1 Knee warmers 1 Baselayer shirts, summer 2 Baselayer shirts, fall 1 Wind vest 1 Rain jacket 1 Shoes with spare cleats 1 Shoe covers or booties 1 Helmet (we like Giro) 1 Pedals 1 pair Riding glasses 1 Cycling cap 1 OFF-THE-BIKE CLOTHING Casual clothing including jeans, khakis, T-shirts and a scarf are appropriate for all restaurants.

For the Castello di Ama dinner we recommend a collared shirt and jacket or sweater for men; skirt, dress or dress pants for women.

Casual shoes and sneakers or trail-shoes for walks in the vineyard are recommended.

Sweater or light jacket is recommended for evenings.

Shorts for swimming should the occasion arise.

TRAVEL GUIDE 73

WHAT TO BRING

CYCLING EQUIPMENT We provide Pinarello Dogma bikes, a Garmin 810 unit, Elite water bottles and a Giordana cycling kit to all guests. Feel free to bring your own saddle, and Luis our mechanic will happily install it for you.

Our service course has Giro helmets; Speedplay, Look and Shimano pedals; Giordana rain jackets; and some spare Giordana clothing as backups in case you forget something.

If you’d like to bring your own bike, Luis will unpack it from your bike case and repack it for you at the end of the trip. Please ensure that your bike arrives to Lecchi clean. You will return home with a clean bike as well.

Should your bike need any work, feel free to bring the required parts and Luis will take care of everything for you.

GARMIN EDGE 810 In addition to a small ride map for your jersey pocket, all Pinarello’s will be equipped with the new Garmin Edge 810 with all of our rides pre-loaded giving you the option of turn-by-turn directions for each days ride.

The Garmin Edge 810 offers a suite of connected features on this unit when paired with your smartphone (iOS® or Android™) and the Garmin Connect™ Mobile app. Edge tracks the data and sends it to your phone using Bluetooth®.

Stay connected and share all the details of your ride with friends, family and social media. Post an update immediately after your ride. Create the posts via your smartphone, and ride data’s already there. Please note that you should have roaming turned on and an international data plan activated on your phone to avoid large cell phone bills when you return home. With the Live Tracking feature, friends and family can follow your ride in real time on the map should you send out an invite.

If you are on Strava please follow our club page (app.strava.com/clubs/ ingamba-tours) as we upload our rides daily. If you are not on Strava please join at (www.strava.com)

IMPORTANT ADDRESSES

BORGOLECCHI Via San Martino, 50 Lecchi in Chianti 0577-169-8087 SARTORIA DEL CUOIO DI ALESSANDRO STELLA Via Camollia, 53 Siena 0577-438-61 IL MAGNIFICO Via Pellegrini, 27 Siena 0577-281-106 LE PANZANELLE Loc. Lucarellli, 29 Lucarelli 0577-733-511 PALAZZO PRETORIO PIZZA Via Del Giglio, 26 San Donato In Poggio 05580-729-28 IL PORRI-ONE Via Porrione, 28 Siena 0577-221-442 CASTELLO DI AMA Loc. Ama Ama 0577-746-031 TRAVEL GUIDE 75

COLLABORATORS WORDS >> Bill Strickland, Bill Gifford, Matt Phillips, Heidi Swift, Jered Gruber, Ashley Gruber IMAGES >> Jason Gould, Jered Gruber, Brad Sauber, Heidi Swift IDEATION >> Jo達o Correia, Justin Curtis, Nate Ripperton

PARTNERS A special thanks to our partners who add as much to our guests’ experience as any restaurant, wine or ride we do. They allow us to treat our guests like pros. Our bikes are Pinarello DogmaK. Clothing by Giordana and Ermenegildo Zegna. Riding fuel by Clif Bar and Osmo. Heads protected by Giro helmets.

Friendly competition brought to you by Strava. Knees saved

by Speedplay pedals. Elite water bottles and cages. Bikes stay tuned by Park Tools. Bags for bikes by SciCon and for gear

by BAD bags. Cool name stickers by Victory Circle Graphix. And we make a difference in the world through World Bicycle Relief.

Adventure writer | inGamba Guest | Bill Gifford | WELCOME | 77

“Riding with inGamba is an invitation into João’s heart and home, culturally, athletically and gastronomically.” | Tom Fowler

Adventure writer | inGamba Guest | Bill Gifford | WELCOME | 79

inGamba is the collaboration of a few people who wanted to share their passions for riding a bicycle, eating great food and drinking fantastic wine. We strive to live each “perfect week” fully while introducing our guests to a world they may not know existed. inGamba was born from a simple tweet: “Thinking of doing a ride, eat, drink EOY bash here in chianti October 12–18th,” said @joaoisme. “Share my favorite things about this place. Who’s interested?”

Four brave souls--Gary Smith, Kevin Irvine, Jason Probert and Robin Kelly--answered.

There were no security deposits, no liability waivers, just as Kevin put it “a huge amount of trust”.

The adventure writer Bill Gifford added words to the narrative; Jason Gould provided images while Joe Staples, Andrew Reed, Michael Scher and Tony Little created the canvas. The original team consisted of Raul Matias, Jorge Queiros, Luis Gomes, Nate Ripperton, Torrey Lincoln, Brad Sauber, João Correia and the kind people of Lecchi in Chianti whose world we share with a few lucky travelers each year.

Adventure writer | inGamba Guest | Bill Gifford | WELCOME | 81