{Cincinnati’s Finest}
slmag.net
Sept/Oct 2011 five dollars
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Rare LARGE condo. 1-block east of HP Square. THREE in-building parking spaces. $1,075,000 unfurnished or $1,175,000 furnished.
Incomparable townhome. Renovated top-to-bottom-only the finest finishes. Breathtaking view. $1,450,000
Best-of street. Irreplaceable architecture. Renovations beyond comparison. Impeccable grounds. $949,000
Secret & serene lane in the heart of the city. 1-floor living. Grand scale. Dazzling renovations. $924,000
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Fine Coin Silver Presentation Pitcher
May your cup runneth over. Fall Fine and Decorative Art Auction October 8, 2011
French Cathedral by Elizabeth Nourse, Oil on Canvas
King’s Rose Creamware
Bid In person, by phone, absentee or online. cowans.com
Consignments Accepting exceptional consignments for our next Fine and Decorative Art Auction.
Rookwood Porcelain Shirayamadani Vase
Exhibition: Friday, Oct. 7 12pm-6pm Saturday, Oct. 8 8am-10am
Contact Diane C. Wachs decarts@cowans.com 513.871.1670 x20 6270 Este Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45232
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Butcher’s Table FROM
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{Cincinnati’s Finest}
Sept/Oct 2011
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54 A Sophisticated Season
five dollars
on the cover:
Orchids at Palm Court
20
Caddies
22
Hearkening History
33
The English Sideboard
34
Bibliotaph
36
Dao, Portugal
38
True Grits
48
Evoque
54
A Sophisticated Season
66
Orchids at Palm Court
74
Society Calendar
75
Zoo La La
76
Furniture Fair Celebrity Golf Event
78
National Father
& Son Clay Court Championships
80
Beating the Melanoma Blues
Additional caption underneath (can be in smaller font size): Hearts on Fire ‘Fulfillment’ diamond stud earrings (heartsonfire.com); Maraschino by Catherine Jones necklace (ilovemaraschino.com); Carolina Herrera sweater from Glasscock/Chic Boutique (glasscockinc. com; 502-897-0277); MARK + JAMES by Badgley Mischka pants (badgleymischka.com); Kate Spade ‘Crown’ black satin slingback with crystal bow (katespade.com)
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Sept/Oct2011
The mellower side of Jack.
Drinking responsibly is the calling card of a gentleman. Come visit us at www.gentlemanjack.com. GENTLEMAN JACK is a registered trademark. ©2008 Jack Daniel’s. Gentleman Jack Rare Tennessee Whiskey, Alcohol 40% by Volume (80 Proof). Distilled and Bottled by Jack Daniel Distillery, Lynchburg (POP. 361), Tennessee.
EDITOR - IN - CHIEF Bridget Williams ______________________________________________ ASSOCIATE EDITORS Kay Matton Jen Dotson ART DIRECTOR Jason Yann CONTRIBUTORS Writers Patti Bailey Dr. Matthew Bessen Ellana Bessen Bob Beggs Kirby Camm Matthew Boone Gardiner Scott Harper Rex Lyons Philip Ruskin Alice Gray Stites Diane C. Wachs Steve Wilson
Te fall issue available now on the iPad or your mobile device.
Photographers Tony Bailey Chad Henle Andrew Kung COPY EDITOR Jennifer Newton Allison O’Daniel DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Eric Williams ADVERTISING SALES OFFICE 502.582.6563 ______________________________________________ PUBLISHER Eric Williams Sophisticated Living is published by Sophisticated Living, LLC, P.O. BOX 1229, Prospect, Kentucky 40059 USA. All Rights Reserved. Sophisticated Living is published six times a year. All images and editorial are the property of Sophisticated Living, LLC and cannot be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission. Annual subscription fees are $25.00; please add $5 for subscriptions outside the US. Single copies may be purchased for $5 at select fine retail outlets. Address all subscription inquiries to: Sophisticated Living, PO Box 1229, Prospect, KY 40059. To order back issues or reprints of 100 or more, call 502.582.6563.
Visit slmag.net 16 slmag.net
SLMAG.NET
From the Editor-In-Chief
Attention Project Runway contestants: I will never mock shoddy garment construction during the runway portion of the show again, ever. Allow me to explain. During a recent trip to New York City to take in the Alexander McQueen exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (which was fabulous albeit impossibly crowded), we rounded out the afternoon by perusing the shops and galleries along nearby Madison Avenue. My daughter was lured into the Lisa Perry boutique by its whimsical pop art styling and colorful shift dresses. Looking over the simple cotton frocks with corresponding Madison Avenue prices led me to make, what was for me, a very bold statement: “Tese are so simple, I’m sure we could make some ourselves.” Te boldness stemmed from the fact that, while my daughter is quite proficient with both a serger and sewing machine, my skill set is limited to what can be accomplished with a stapler and glue gun. Not realizing the audacity of my proclamation, as she thankfully hasn’t reached the age of thinking her parents are complete idiots (although I’m bracing for that phase to rear its ugly head any day now), she nodded in agreement and we left, with my pocketbook none worse for the wear. Te next day we headed to Mood fabrics (225 West 37th Street) and were delighted to see a gang of Project Runway all stars heading out of the elevators after filming (alas, Tim Gunn was nowhere to be found). After perusing a dizzying amount of fabric and posing for pictures with Swatch, the resident French bulldog, who was so disinterested in us that he didn’t bother to stir from his nap on the corner of a plush sofa, we left with several yards of fabric for our shift dress project. Back at home, my daughter awoke bright and early to begin working on what she hoped would be an enviable piece of ready to wear. I’d selected a “Sew Easy” pattern, the kind that says it’s perfect for beginners and pictures a smiling mother and daughter working on a flawless garment. Tat was definitely not my reality. Steps 1 and 2 were easy: they involved opening the package and ironing the tissue pattern to make it flat. Everything went downhill thereafter, with each mistake compounding into something not even remotely wearable, even by second-string circus clown standards. Ever patient of my home economics shortcomings, my daughter took my missteps in stride, sewing extra fabric, ribbon and the like as needed to camouflage places where I’d misread the pattern, but she was more than willing to throw in the towel when the opportunity was offered. Watching her manipulate the machines with ease, something I’ve not been able to do after 20 years of trying, left me feeling quite envious. “I’m no Martha Stewart,” I lamented, to which she quickly responded, “But she doesn’t collect Kidrobot.” I’m not sure how ownership of a Mega Munny or Tofu Molly negates my sewing ineptitude in her eyes, but I’ll take it. Following our failed experiment, I was definitely more cognizant of fit and finish during our recent fall fashion photo shoots for this month’s features and even more appreciative of the skill involved in well-tailored clothing. While each look is certainly travel worthy, if you’re planning on following in my footsteps through the restaurants of Charleston as part of our travel feature on pages 38-47, I’d also recommend packing something with an elastic waistband!
Bridget Williams, Editor-in-Chief bridget@slmag.net
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Fall into Fashion!
For Him • For Her LOUISVILLE
4938 Brownsboro Road 502.753.RODES (7633) www.rodes.com
Caddies - On par with Collectors’ Most Chosen Items
Written by Diane C. Wachs
An English Regency qillwork Tea Caddy, circa 1810.
For dear friends who collect interesting boxes, a great fallback present (if Faberge is not in contention) is the tea caddy or tea canister. The fabulous tea wares of this sort are an 18th century/early 19th century phenomenon. Tey came about as storage containers for the precious commodity of dried tea leaves, a cultural inheritance from the China trade that swept over England and Europe. 18th century, well-to-do tea customers often showcased their tea in containers of inlaid boxes, Chinese lacquerware caskets, silver or porcelain. Both boxes and lidded jars are referred to as tea caddies, but many collectors will contest this: small boxes with dividers are tea caddies, and bottles (of silver, porcelain, toleware or lacquerware) are tea canisters. The word caddy is said to be derived from “catty”, the Chinese pound. Not to be confused with a golf caddy – a term which derivates from Cadets de Gascogne,and didn’t come about until the 17th century, but I digress…
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The earliest tea containers were canisters, or smallish jars, with lids or stoppers, and were often produced by the Chinese, (Export)in porcelain, the Dutch, in delftware, or the English, in creamware. Te English and other countries also made silver versions of the Chinese canister, the early ones of simple geometric forms, and later ones, highly repousséd with flowers and scrolls. Later 18th century containers were small boxes, most often of various woods or tortoiseshell, embellished with brasses, inlay or ivory. Most had two compartments lined in tin, or a thin foil of tin, to prevent tea spoilage. Te dividers segregated types of teas – one for black tea, and one for green tea. Later versions of the tea caddies or boxes would have the dividers with a glass tea bowl between them. Te tea bowl was believed to be for mixing teas, but some collectors claim the bowl was for sugar. Not so – sugar was about as precious as tea and had its own containers, with locks!
English cream ware tea canister, decorated in Holland depicting Wilhelm V.
A s t e a p ro d u c t i o n i n t h e E a s t i n c re a s e d a n d t h e commodity became less expensive, but not less popular, the size of the containers increased. These later caddies or tea chests were most often produced in woods such as mahogany and rosewood, resembling caskets or sarcophagi. It is easy to find the later evolution of the tea caddy (into the tea chest) and while they are not expensive, they are not as charming and desirable as the earlier ones. Of the wooden tea caddies of the 18th century, the ones that have the most cache are the pear and apple-shaped caddies – these forms only held one variety of tea (no dividers) and are always with locks. Square-shaped inlaid tea caddies are also very desirable. If correct and early, these lovely boxes will have no dividers either and will have locks. Expect that all 18th century tea caddies will have some condition issues or repairs; they’ve had a life – be forgiving!
Chinese Export black and gilt-lacquer tea caddy and hinged cover, early 19th Century
As a rule, I tell clients that if something is obsolete in use today, it is obsolete in the market. The reason for this is that I still see way too many ancient typewriters, sewing machines and rocking chairs – these are DEAD in the antique world, trust me. The exception to my rule (and of course, there are always exceptions) is the tea caddy. Whether it is the beauty of a well-made small object, the history it contains or its appealing decorating élan, both tea caddies and canisters have held their charm for collectors, and for the early ones, their value in the market. Diane C. Wachs is Director of Fine and Decorative Art at Cowan’s Auctions in Cincinnati, OH. A former museum director and professor hailing from Lexington, KY, Diane holds a Masters in the History of Decorative Art from the Cooper-Hewitt Museum/ Parsons School of Design, New York, NY. Diane has led the Fine and Decorative Art Department at Cowan’s for over four years, overseeing auctions of over $8 million in fine art and antiques.
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Hearkening History Te thoughtful renovation of an important riverfront home Written by Bridget Williams Photography by Andrew Kung
A conundrum often faced by historic home enthusiasts is how to preserve the historic integrity of their residence while making it conducive to standards of living in contemporary times. Such was the task for interior designer Brian Gibson of DIGS, who partnered with the owners of an important early 1800s riverfront home for a major renovation endeavor. Now all but obscured from street view by a canopy of deciduous trees, including a majestic elm purported to be more than 100 years old, the façade of the estate-sized home constructed in the Federal style with Gothic and Greek Revival touches boasts a recessed two-story front porch defined by slender columns with Ionic capitals on the ďŹ rst oor and Corinthian capitals on the second; stone-trimmed, rose-colored brickwork; recessed windows with arched lintels and Georgian tracery; a Greek Revival wing with side-galleries; silver Masonic stars in stone panels; and a Grecian side entrance porch.
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Left: An Empire chest from the 1830s is positioned near a window in the master bedroom Right: A Kentucky-made invalid’s chair from the 1820s has been recovered with silk Scalamandré upholstery. Te William IV bookcase also dates to the 1820s.
Working in collaboration with the homeowners and Architects+, the team was thrilled to uncover historically significant clues to the home’s original condition, namely Tudor-arched passages between the entrance hall and east parlor and an 1830s black-and-gold painted elliptical glass front transom. The interior design devised by Gibson employs a great deal of purposeful restraint and impactful use of color so as to not detract from the home’s architectural elements. “We tried to take the house back as close to original as much as possible without sacrificing the comforts of a modern family home,” said Gibson. Interior fittings such as doors and hardware (much of which is silver plated) were refurbished and reused whenever possible. A generously proportioned entry hall opens to formal rooms on either side. A pair of classical columns marks the opening between the main hall and a transverse back passage; the columns were added by a previous homeowner, who also enclosed the Grecian galleries. In the entry hall, and most rooms throughout the home, hang period smoke bell jar lamp fixtures that were imported
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from India. Centered in the entry is an English rent/drum table from the late 18th century atop a Sultanabad rug. Twelve-foot ceilings in the parlor make the space appear even grander. The silk striped drapery was selected for its approximation of what one might find in a Federal-period home. Gibson remarked that the Oushak rug is “simple but appropriate as it isn’t too formal.” Serving as the focal point of the room is a mid-Victorian marble mantel. Te striking piece was swapped with a wooden mantle on the opposite side of the wall in the entry by a previous owner in the 1850s; the team decided that this was one prior alteration that they were happy to leave as is. Casegoods throughout the home represent a mix of English pieces, some as late as William IV (1825). “Finding pieces of appropriate scale was quite a challenge,” said Gibson, adding that while the house is predominantly Federal in style, most furniture of that period is too dainty for the home’s scale, so most of the pieces were made “just a hair later”. Gibson was particularly pleased to find two Ohio River Valley pieces by the same maker that can be found in the living room: a cherry serpentine chest of drawers, circa 1800-1810 and a side table.
Te table and chairs were brought from the homeowner’s previous residence. Interior designer Brian Gibson found the 9’x9’ breakfront.
Positioned atop the Sultanabad rug in the study is an oak table with a leather top that is used as a desk. Te mahogany secretary is William IV.
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A previous owner enclosed the lower half of the porch. Te resultingsolarium provides an airy, light ďŹ lled space to enjoy the mature landscape.
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Anchoring the main seating area in the living room is an Oushak rug. Te furnishings are a mix of English and Ohio River Valley antiques along with contemporary upholstered pieces.
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Te English drum table resting on the Sultanabad rug in the entry dates to the late 18th century.
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Left: A mid-Victorian marble mantel in the living room. Right, top: Detail from a stained glass panel in the solarium Right, bottom: An 1830s black-and-gold painted elliptical glass front transom window was found during the renovation.
Te homeowners’ existing table and chairs were used in the dining room and are complemented by a newly acquired 9’x9’ breakfront. Gibson employed simple panels of paisley print on rods to showcase the original windows. Te room’s boldly scaled woodwork was installed in the mid-1830s. A stained glass window that had been previously installed in the mid-to-late 19th century was kept and repurposed as a piece of art to add to the solarium. Also found in this space is the aforementioned transom window, a reverse painting on glass that had been plastered over. It has been lovingly restored and framed. Bold use of color is a recurring theme, such as the Sultanabad rug under the oak leather-topped table used as a desk in the office. Te mahogany secretary is William IV. Color is used
to create a restful atmosphere in the master bedroom, part of the newly added wing that wisely includes an elevator to allow the homeowners to age in place. As part of the renovation, the homeowners improved the steeply sloping grounds, which include an early brick icehouse and service tunnel that would have been used to allow staff to discreetly transport supplies from the waterfront into the home. Local folklore links the tunnel to the Underground Railroad, but this has been largely refuted in recent years. Regardless, the home has a rich and fascinating history that the present homeowners have been careful to preserve. Gibson concurs. “From the unexpected discoveries to hunting for fine antiques appropriate to the period and scale of the home, this was a really enjoyable project.” sl
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A rich history of tradition and excellence. Barbour embodies the same qualities as Keeneland. Celebrate Keeneland’s 75th anniversary with the timeless beauty of Barbour, whose iconic clothing and accessories have also been enjoyed by generations of fans for 75 years. Browse our Barbour collection of ruggedly refined, highly functional apparel for the entire family. Inspired by a rich heritage, it’s perfectly suited for the contemporary lifestyle. The best of everything equine. Visit our newest location in the Lexus Store of Lexington.
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THE ENGLISH SIDEBOARD
Written by Kirby Camm, Bittners
Furniture at its best
Since its inception, the English sideboard has never been out of style. In fact, it may be more popular today than ever. Te reason for this is twofold: first and foremost, it is a stunning piece of furniture, while also managing to be extremely useful at the same time. Te English sideboard has its roots in mid-18th century England during the Adam period of English antiques. Robert Adam was a prominent architect, along with being an interior and furniture designer. Adam would design furniture for homes in which he was involved. For dining rooms, Adam created a long neoclassical style table for serving food and beverages. It is from these long serving tables that the evolution of the English sideboard started. However, it was not until the periods of Hepplewhite and Sheraton, around 1770, that everything came together. By coming together, I am referring to when the serving table became an all-inclusive furniture piece with storage. Not only did this new style of furniture – the sideboard – have a long, flat top for serving culinary delights and beverages, it also had drawers to stash linens and silverware, as well as compartments for storing wine and liquors or other items. With all the drawers and storage space, the sideboard quickly became an important and useful furniture piece in the dining room.
Although the first English sideboards were made in the latter part of the 18th century, they were produced throughout most of the 19th century. Te illustrated sideboard dates from the early 19th century and has several interesting features. Although not rare, the decorative brass gallery on this sideboard is an attentiongrabbing design element. Its main use was to hold wall draperies, which protected the wall behind the sideboard from spatter when the piece was used for entertaining. Most brass galleries on sideboards are rectangular in form and straight-lined. Whereas the brass gallery on the illustrated sideboard is decorative, making it attractive even when the wall draperies are removed. Another interesting feature about this sideboard is its front profile. Te serpentine front is a fabulous design element on any antique (it is so called because the furniture’s front curves like a serpent). Technically speaking, a serpentine-front antique has a large outward curve in the center and is flanked on each side by lesser concave sides. Lastly, this sideboard is high style. One only needs to look at the inlay work on the piece to make this observation. The contrasting inlaid satin wood against the mahogany makes for a very decorative piece of furniture. No matter how you look at it, the English sideboard is a wonderful and unique antique. sl
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Bibliotaph Awarded the 2011 Cookbook of the Year award by the James Beard Foundation, Oaxaca al Gusto represents the culmination of a lifetime of work by author Diana Kennedy, who has been referred to as the Julia Child of Mexican cooking. In her latest cookbook, Kennedy delves into the cuisine of Oaxaca, one of the most diverse in Mexico, with many different cultural and linguistic groups, each with their own distinctive cuisine. Diana Kennedy Oaxaca al Gusto: An Infinite Gastronomy - hardcover, 459 pages, University of Texas Press.
Taking top honors in the Baking and Dessert category at the 2011 James Beard Foundation Book Awards, Good to the Grain by Kim Boyce (a former pastry chef at Spago and Campanile) presents a collection of 75 recipes that feature 12 different kinds of whole-grain flours, from amaranth to teff, proving that whole-grain baking is more about incredible flavors and textures than anything else. Kim Boye with Amy Scattergood - Good to the Grain: Baking with WholeGrain Flours - hardcover, 208 pages, Stewart, Tabori & Chang
Whereas just three decades ago nearly everything we ate from the sea was wild, rampant overfishing combined with an unprecedented bio-tech revolution has brought us to a point where wild and farmed fish occupy equal parts of a complex and confusing marketplace. In Four Fish, award-winning writer and lifelong fisherman Paul Greenberg takes us on a culinary journey, exploring the history of the fish that dominate our menus---salmon, sea bass, cod and tunaand examining where each stands at this critical moment in time. Winner of the Writing and Literature category for the 2011 James Beard Foundation Book Awards. Paul Greenberg - Four Fish: Te Future of the Last Wild Food - hardcover, 304 pages, Te Penguin Press.
Taking top honors in both the Cooking from a Professional Point of View and Photography categories from the 2011 James Beard Foundation Book Awards, Noma: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine provides an exclusive look at Noma a two-Michelin-starred Copenhagen restaurant, and its influential head chef René Redzepi. Te book includes more than 90 recipes and 200 photographs of finished dishes. René Redzepi - Noma: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine - hardback, 320 pages, Phaidon.
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bib 'li' o 'taph, [bib-lee-uhtaf, -tahf ]: a person who caches or hoards books Inducted into the James Beard Foundation Cookbook Hall of Fame in 2011, the first edition of On Food and Cooking appeared in 1984, with author Harold McGee crafting a pioneering work that translated technical food science into cook-friendly kitchen science. For the 20th anniversary edition in 2004 McGee rewrote and expanded the reference book, adding more than 100 new illustrations. Harold McGee - On Food and Cooking: Te Science and Lore of the Kitchen - hardcover, 896 pages, Scribner publishers.
Rajat Parr, wine director for the Mina Group, partnered with journalist Jordan Mackay to provide a fascinating exploration of the inside world of sommeliers, sharing their unique perspectives, extensive expertise and best stories. Winner of the 2011 James Beard Foundation Book Awards in the beverage category. Rajay Parr & Jordan Mackay - Secrets of the Sommeliers hardcover, 240 pages, Ten Speed Press.
Amanda Hesser, the well-known New York Times food columnist, has cooked and updated every one of the 1000plus recipes featured, from 1940s Caesar salad and 1960s flourless chocolate cake to today's fava bean salad and no-knead bread. Winner of the 2011 James Beard Foundation Book Awards in the General Cooking Category. Amanda Hesser - Te Essential New York Times Cook Book: Recipes for a New Century - hardcover, 960 pages, W.W. Norton & Company. Mark Bitterman's fieldguide to the nuances of salt profiles hundreds of artisan varieties and won top honors in the Reference and Scholarship category as part of the 2011 James Beard Foundation Book Awards. 50 recipes showcase everything from elegant fleur de sel to 500 million year old Himalayan salt slabs. Mark Bitterman - Salted: A Manifesto on the World's Most Essential Mineral, with Recipes - hardcover, 320 pages, Ten Speed Press.
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Dao, Portugal
Written by Scott Harper, MS
Portugal is an amazing country for wine. Very few people, let alone experts, understand the country’s viticulture, with the exceptions of the wines of Port, Vinho Verde and Madeira. Tese three wine areas make up most people’s interest and knowledge of Portugal, and why not? Port is arguably the greatest and most popular fortified wine in the world; followed by another remarkable fortified wine called Madeira, which the Declaration of Independence was toasted to; and lastly, the refreshing, quaffing white wine of Vinho Verde, which is a delight to drink in the summer time. So, why is the rest of Portuguese wine not understood or appreciated? Knowledge and unusual grape varieties would be the answer. Most people would try a Chardonnay from a country they have not tasted before or Pinot Noir from a country not noted for it, but the indigenous grape varieties of Portugal do not roll off the tongue. As matter a fact, they trip and stumble. Widespread knowledge of the regions and its various appellations simply does not exist, and explaining them can be tricky at best. I suggest taking one tiny wine step to Portugal at a time and learning a little bit about the wines and region of Dão.
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The Dão region is located in north central Portugal and takes its name from the river that runs through it. Its viticulture heritage dates back to the Roman Empire, and it produces more red wine than white. Te region is hilly, hot and dry with most grapes planted in granitic soil at higher elevations, which allows for a longer growing season. Where there are not vineyards, there are copious pine forests and small villages. Te vast majority of the wineries are very small producers, owning no more than two acres. Try these Dão wines from Quinta das Maias winery: Dão Vinho Branco Quinta das Maias 2010 (Dão, Portugal) Te wine color is pale yellow with green highlights. Flavors of ripe yellow apples, citrus, white flowers, wet stone minerals and honeydew melon are enveloped with an amazing rich and silky texture, almost like a great value Cotes Du Rhone Blanc. Made from the grapes – Malvasia Fina (50 percent), Encruzado (30 percent), Verdelho (15 percent) and Cercial (5 percent). Try the Dão Vinho Branco Quinta das Maias 2010 as an aperitif or with sea scallops seared and served with beurre blanc sauce or a simple roasted chicken rubbed with lemon.
Dão Vinho Tinto Quinta das Maias 2007 (Dão, Portugal) Te wine color is medium red with purple highlights. Flavors are red cherry, raspberries, fresh tilled soil, slight cigar box and light oak. It is a rustic blend of two grapes – 20 percent Touriga Nacional and 80 percent of Jaen, which is known in Spain as Mencia. Te Dão Vinho Tinto Quinta das Maias 2007 paired well with tournedos of beef sautéed with Vidalia onions and deglazed with the Dão wine, which was reduced and finished with Maytag bleu cheese. Te addition of the Dão wine to the sauce created a nice bridge with the wine. Quinta das Maias was purchased in 1997 by Luis Lourenco who also manages the estate of 86 acres including vines as old as 30 years. Te winery makes 10,000 cases of wine annually, and the original estate dates back to 1897. Quinta das Maias was named for the beautiful yellow Maias flowers, which surround the estate and are depicted on the label. Maias flowers are called Scotch Broom in English. And in case you want to try the more popular wines of Portugal, here are recommendations for Port, Madeira and Vinho Verde:
Vinho Verde Gazela Non Vintage (Minho, Portugal) Very pale yellow in color, this wine is effervescent, vivacious and lively with the flavors of lemon, lime zest and apple. It is dry, light and crisp and perfect as an aperitif or with light appetizers. Fonseca 10-Year Tawny Porto (Porto, Portugal) Matured in cask for a minimum of 10 years, this Port is medium-bodied, sweet and has the flavors of roasted nuts, caramelized sugar, blackberries and oak. Try with Stilton and walnuts. Cossart Gordon 10-Year Bual Madeira (Madeira, Portugal) A luscious texture and a warm tangy finish mark this medium rich and full-bodied Madeira. It is medium sweet with the flavors of baked fruit, nuts and smoke. Delicious paired with roasted or caramelized nuts and dried fruits. sl
Scott is General Manager of the Bristol Bar & GrilleJeffersonville and is Wine Director/Sommelier for the 5 Bristol Bar & Grille’s in Louisville and Indiana. He teaches wine through Bellarmine University. Scott is a Master Sommelier and a Certified Wine Educator.
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T RUE GR ITS Savoring Charleston One Bite at a Time Written by Bridget Williams
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Charleston Place
Even though I left Charleston months ago, it is still with me. I am not talking about the indelible memories, photographs or souvenirs picked up along the way, but rather the few pounds I happily acquired over a week of overindulging in some of the best cuisine I have experienced in recent memory. For a city of its size, the area boasts a disproportionate number of culinary luminaries. In fact, for three consecutive years, a Charleston chef has brought home the esteemed James Beard Foundation Best Chef Award. Hominy Grill’s Robert Stehling won Best Southeastern Chef in 2008. The torch was passed to FIG’s Mike Lata (2009), who handed it off to McCrady’s Sean Brock (2010).
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Widely regarded as Charleston’s finest hotel, home base for our visit was Charleston Place, located in the historic heart of the city. The elegant 320-room (80 club level) and 40-suite property boasts more than 40,000 square feet of meeting rooms, a full-service European-style spa, 50-foot horizon-edge rooftop swimming pool with retractable glass roof, three restaurants (including innovative four star dining at Te Charleston Grill), a
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host of on-site boutiques as well as close proximity to blocks and blocks of shop-‘til-you-drop opportunities on King Street. Guests are welcomed into a grand Italian marble lobby with a Georgian open arm staircase and 12-foot crystal chandelier. Guest rooms, ranging in size from 400 square feet in the Executive Rooms to the 1,200-square-foot Presidential Suite, feature early American design with period reproductions and Italian marble bathrooms.
Te Charleston Grill
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Te Peninsula Grill’s Coconut Cake
My culinary odyssey began in grand style just across the street from Charleston Place, at the Peninsula Grill, located in the Planter’s Inn. We arrived early, and already a well-heeled crowd had populated the intimate dining room, bar and the lushly landscaped courtyard. Exceptionally personable, Executive Chef Robert Carter, who has been at the helm since 1998, prefaced our meal by saying, “We’re gonna have a lot of fun at dinner tonight,” and proceeded to present us with a king’s feast, Charleston style. An amuse-bouche of pork pâté with peach jam on endive with fried carrot frond packed a tremendous amount of flavor into a single bite. Chef Carter’s greatest hits feast continued with jumbo lump crab salad, fried green tomatoes, and oyster stew with smoked bacon, the latter left me tearing off pieces of piping hot loaf bread to sop up every last drop. For the main course, our table shared tastings of jumbo sea scallops, Virginia wild striped bass with blue crab and tender beef filet served with a trio of accompaniments (I was smitten at the mention of truffle butter, although the balsamic reduction with bits of blue cheese was equally delectable). 42 slmag.net
When dessert was mentioned, we did not know how we would even manage it until our waiter said that not trying Carter’s Ultimate Coconut Cake is “like going to Disney World and not seeing Mickey Mouse.” Based on his grandmother’s recipe, the cake has become one of the city’s culinary ambassadors. Since they began taking mail orders in 2003, Carter’s staff annually fulfills orders for the 12-pound cakes that cumulatively are the equivalent weight of seven full-size pickup trucks. Each of the towering 12-layers are infused with coconut and fresh vanilla and then topped with a cream and butter icing, coated in toasted coconut and dripping with simple syrup. Divine! To help orient myself with the city’s rich culinary history, I signed up for a tour with Culinary Tours of Charleston, which provides an up close and personal look inside some of the city’s most famous restaurants. Our small group was led by a charming gentleman whose name – Houn Calhoun – was perfectly suited to his Southern drawl. We started our early morning jaunt with coffee and pastries under a shady allée near Pineapple Fountain in Waterfront Park. In Charleston, the past
is always present, especially in its cuisine, which represents a true cultural melting pot. Calhoun’s condensed version of the city’s culinary roots was interspersed with colorful anecdotes. Above all, I learned that you have not had grits until you have eaten them in Charleston. “If you’re used to the kind that come in a box, you might as well eat the box. It has more flavor,” Calhoun said with a hearty belly laugh. Our first stop was Carolina’s Restaurant, whose main dining room is one of the oldest in Charleston. Chef Jill Mathias, who hails from Fargo, led us through the kitchen, where a cook was busy stirring a huge pot of grits. “Tis is a gem of a place to be a chef,” she said. Mathias talked about workflow and pointed out several pieces of specialty kitchen equipment, including a cast iron flattop for cooking fish. Our group gathered around the bar, where a blackboard displayed a list of 13 local purveyors who supply the restaurant with vegetables and protein. Mathias passed a plate of what was available fresh locally that day, encouraging us to sample what we fancied while she shared interesting anecdotes about the various farms. “I like meat to come from happy animals,” she added.
Arguably the grand dame of low country cuisine in Charleston, our next stop was Magnolias, where glasses of “Southern table wine” aka sweet tea, were waiting to take the edge off of our humid stroll. Executive Chef Don Drake simply summed up his kitchen philosophy as “keep it simple, stupid.” He elaborated by saying that the secret behind Magnolias 22 year run is that he always insists on starting with the best ingredients, including all organic produce (sourced from 45 different local farms) and meat processed by an on-staff butcher. “I care about what goes into my body and want the same for my patrons,” he added. Questions from the group suddenly stopped when presented with a tasting of shrimp and grits. Chef Drake always uses three parts spring water to one part grits (stone ground) and stirs constantly for the first five minutes. For lunch service, grits are started at 7:30 and are in perfect form by 11:30. As we walked through the kitchen, Drake introduced us to Miss Marshall, who he referred to as the grandmother of the kitchen. “She is a great natural Southern cook who keeps everyone in line.” Not looking up from the okra she was chopping, Miss Marshall simply nodded in quiet agreement.
Te dining room at Magnolias
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Te main dining room at Cypress
I would have to say that the visit to Cypress was my favorite among the tour stops. Chef Craig Diehl greeted us at the door wearing a trucker-style baseball cap and a seersucker chef ’s coat as if we were old friends stopping by to catch up. Te contemporary interior of the space is quite striking and punctuated by an open theatre-style kitchen and a two-story glass-walled wine room, the upper reaches of which are accessed via a spiral staircase. Like his mentor at Magnolia’s, Diehl also espouses a similar organic philosophy. “We’ve bastardized foods. You should be able to taste the natural elements. Cows eat grass so meat should taste grassy,” he explained while bouncing around the kitchen like a Labrador puppy. Serving “jazzed up redneck American food” such as patty melts and corn dogs, Chef Diehl also makes charcuterie in-house, a process he learned the old fashioned way: by buying a whole pig and “figuring out how to do as much with it as possible.” His trial and error using a cold-curing process has certainly paid off, as the lamb bacon he passed around was melt-in-your-mouth delicious. With meat on the brain, Diehl also offered up his own recommendations for the best barbeque in Charleston: Fiery Ron’s Home Team BBQ. “If you frequent the busiest barbeque places, the meat is always fresh,” he offered. Our last stop of the day was a visit to Executive Chef Nate Whiting at Tristan, located in the French Quarter Inn. Te most contemporary cuisine of the bunch, Whiting, who came to Tristan via the five star restaurant at Woodland’s Inn and spent years apprenticing in Italy, prepares food with scientific precision. During a tour of the kitchen he showed us what he dubbed “the best invention since the gas stove”: a thermal emergent circulator, used for sous vide cooking. While watching a piece of meat cook in a sealed bag within a bowl of water is certainly less dramatic than an open flame, Whiting pointed out that “romance is imprecise.” Whiting’s kitchen wizardry also uses pressure cookers, dehydrators and torches, the latter of which is used to “kiss” 44 slmag.net
tomatoes to remove the skin instead of blanching so they still taste like tomatoes in the end. His employment of leading-edge techniques is not just for show, as he truly believes they make the food taste better. “My philosophy is that success is the sum of many small things done correctly,” he added. He dared us to try a sampling of mozzarella made a-la-minute for the tomato mozzarella salad with a disclaimer that it would “ruin tastings of all mozzarellas to follow.” I have to agree that the memory of the freshly made and still-warm cheese will be hard to beat. Proof that good food in Charleston comes at all price points, for breakfast the next morning we headed to the Dixie Supply Bakery & Café, a tiny place connected to a convenience store/gas station on a side street a short walk from our hotel. By the time we arrived a little after 8 a.m., the line was already out the door. Teir highly touted shrimp and grits were served with bacon and onion on a bed of grits so creamy they could have qualified as dessert! Tis little gem became our go-to breakfast spot for the duration of our stay. At my urging, after breakfast we skipped the bicycle rickshaw and walked the 15 minutes to the South Carolina Aquarium, located next to the Ft. Sumptner Memorial. We were there to see the only sea turtle hospital and rehabilitation facility in South Carolina. Located in the basement, tank after tank held turtles in all stages of life (adults can reach up to 400 pounds) that are all cared for by two full-time staff and nearly two-dozen volunteers. Windows on all sides of each tank make it fun for kids to peek in. The staff and volunteers work hard to see that each turtle is released back into their native habitat once they are medically cleared. Photos tacked to the bulletin board from recent releases show that hundreds show up for these community-wide celebrations of local wildlife. Te rest of the aquarium is just as interesting and definitely a worthwhile stop when traveling to Charleston with children in tow.
House-made charcuterie at Cypress
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Te bar at Husk
Cast Iron Roasted Grouper from Husk
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Artful cuisine from Te Charleston Grill
Lunch at Husk continued our culinary adventure. Located in a late 19th century two-story home with porch balconies on Queen Street between King and Meeting Streets, Husk has lunch and dinner menus that change daily. Te dining room effortlessly sashayed between rustic and glamorous with the shimmer of silver-leafed walls contrasting with honey-colored wood floors and tabletops. As we perused the menu, which is laden with ingredients indigenous to the South, we were presented with warm benne seed rolls in vintage bank coin bags and accompanied by a spread made of half-butter, half-bacon lard and seasoned with local honey. Tey were so good we had to have our waitress take them away for fear that we would spoil our appetites for the rest of the meal. We started with fried green tomatoes with mustard ramp dressing. Not wanting to break form, I opted for the shrimp and grits served with smoked peppers, onions and Surry County sausage, while my tablemate chose the Husk cheeseburger. While my entrée certainly did not disappoint (I now believe it must be a crime to serve subpar grits in Charleston!), the burger – a double-stack of locally sourced grass-fed beef patties with ground-in Benton’s hickory-smoked bacon and simply dressed with a gooey layer of American cheese on a homemade bun – stole the show. A quick visit to the wood-fired oven lent the patties a unique crispy crust. Our dishes were accompanied by a Benton’s bacon cornbread served in a cast iron skillet and a succotash of South Carolina lady peas and sweet corn. Our days of delightful dining came to an apropos end where we began: The Charleston Grill at Charleston Place. Richly paneled walls define the dining room, with intimate spaces set apart by linen drapery with silk tassels. A wall of windows overlooks a flowering courtyard, while an eclectic collection of art inside celebrates both country and cityscapes.
Having spent a good portion of the day on foot exploring the shops and vendors of the recently renovated City Market, a cool glass of strawberry lemonade (with fresh strawberries as abundant as ice cubes) hit the spot. Under the expert eye of Executive Chef Michelle Weaver, The Charleston Grill has obtained both the AAA Four Diamond Award and the Mobil Four-Star Award. Passionate about cooking since childhood, the New England Culinary Institute graduate worked in New Orleans and Nashville before joining the staff at Te Charleston Grill in 1997 and becoming executive chef in 2009. The menu is divided into four categories: Pure, Lush, Southern and Cosmopolitan, each section artfully reflecting its moniker. My menu for the evening sampled from all and included a crispy shrimp appetizer from the Cosmopolitan section, prepared with red chile sauce and a sweet soy gingerkaffir lime hollandaise; from Pure came an arugula avocado Salad with watercress, Vidalias, Easter egg radishes and lime-herb vinaigrette; butter poached Maine lobster with wild mushrooms, fava beans, parsnips, preserved lemon and sweet corn purée was from Lush; and from the Southern selections, pimento cheese grits with apple smoked bacon and crab. I ended the meal where it started: with strawberries, namely a graham cracker pie with roasted strawberry sorbet and rhubarb. Tose planning a culinary-centric visit to Charleston may want to consider scheduling their visit around the Taste of Charleston (October 7-9, 2011). Arts aficionados should check out the Spoleto Festival, internationally recognized as America’s premier performing arts festival, held in 2012 from May 25 through June 12. Fashionistas will want to line the runway at Charleston Fashion Week (March 20-24, 2012). sl
Sources: Carolina’s Restaurant (10 Exchange Street, carolinasrestaurant.com),Charleston Fashion Week (charlestonmag.com/fashionweek/main), Charleston Grill (224 King Street, charlestongrill.com), Charleston Place (205 Meeting St, charlestonplace.com), City Market (188 Meeting St., thecharlestoncitymarket.com), Culinary Tours of Charleston (40 North Market St., culinarytoursofcharleston.com), Cypress Restaurant (167 East Bay Street, magnolias-blossom-cypress.com), Dixie Supply Bakery & Café (62 State Street, dixiecafecharlston.com), Firey Ron’s Home Team BBQ (1205 Ashley River Road, hometeambbq.com), Husk Restaurant (76 Queen St., huskrestaurant.com), Magnolias Restaurant (185 East Bay Street, magnolias-blossom-cypress. com), Peninsula Grill (112 North Market St., peninsulagrill.com), South Carolina Aquarium (100 Aquarium Wharf, scaquarium.org), Spoleto Festival (Spoletousa.org), Taste of Charleston (charlestonrestaurantassociation.com/taste-of-charleston), Tristan Restaurant (10 Linguard St., tristandining.com)
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Evoque Te smallest, lightest and most fuel-efficient Range Rover ever produced. During the Evoke’s development process, maintaining the integrity of the LRX concept without compromising core Range Rover values such as interior comfort or off-road capability required a huge effort from the design and engineering teams, resulting in coupe styling with capable off-road geometry and ground clearance. Te all-new body structure presents new interpretations of classic Range Rover design cues, including the signature clamshell bonnet, the floating roof and the solid 'wheel-at-each-corner' stance. An optimization of the vehicle structure delivers generous interior legroom and headroom while retaining the low coupe 48 slmag.net
roofline. Unlike any previous Range Rover, the Range Rover Evoque adopts a very dynamic profile with its rising beltline, a muscular shoulder running the length of the car, and a distinctive taper to the floating roofline. The sculpted corners reduce the car’s visual overhangs front and rear. Te Evoque is available with xenon headlamps with a signature design created by innovative LED light-blade technology. Two body styles are available: a coupe model, which precisely mirrors the LRX concept design, and a five-door. Te coupe and five-door are identical in overall length and width; however, the five-door has a 1.18 inch higher rear roofline. In both, the rear
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seats offer comfortable accommodation for three passengers; rear seat occupants in the five-door model benefit from about two inches of additional shoulder room than the coupe model. Te five-door also offers a 60/40 folding rear seat, which allows for cargo capacity expansion, providing a substantial volume of 51 cubic ft with the rear seats folded. Te Range Rover Evoque features a new 240 horsepower* turbocharged direct injected engine which offers exceptional power, delivering 0-60 mph in 7.1 seconds*. Coupled with twin variable valve timing, twin balancer shafts and all aluminum alloy construction this engine delivers exceptional driveability and excellent fuel efficiency. Te engine is paired with a six-speed automatic transmission, which has been optimized for operational efficiency. Compared to conventional larger capacity engines with a similar power output, the new 2.0 liter Si4 engine can reduce CO2 emissions by up to 20 percent. The Range Rover Evoque delivers the all-weather, multiterrain capability. In common with its larger siblings, the new model provides formidable off-road potential, which is enhanced by the company’s signature Terrain Response® system. Drivers who take their Range Rover Evoque off-road will be reassured to 50 slmag.net
know that, in addition to generous ground clearance, the Range Rover Evoque has aggressive breakover and departure angles, and is equipped with a fully independent suspension featuring longtravel coil-sprung struts front and rear. Inside, the Evoque takes the strong, clean architecture and quality materials of a traditional Range Rover and applies them in a more contemporary manner. Gerry McGovern, Land Rover Design Director explained, “Te luxurious, contemporary feel to the cabin is the perfect complement to the concept car exterior. Te exquisite materials and craftsmanship, and the pure, elegant design, tell you that this is a true Range Rover interior, but one with a more sporting flavor.” When the vehicle is started, the interior displays and ambient lighting come to life with a precisely choreographed start-up sequence. The solid aluminum rotary shifter completes the ‘greeting’ as it rises silently into the driver’s hand. A full glass fixed panoramic roof enhances the sense of room and freedom within the spacious cabin, filling the interior with natural light. LED ambient lighting provides illumination within the cabin at night, with a range of colors that can be chosen by the driver. When Dynamic Mode is selected, a sporting red color fills the interior.
Interior technology features have been designed and engineered to provide customers with the same comprehensive range of premium technologies they expect from a Range Rover vehicle, just delivered in a more compact package. One of the Range Rover brand's signature features, the Surround Camera system uses five digital cameras, discreetly placed around the car, providing a 360-degree, real-time view of the surrounding area. Available xenon headlamps boasts adaptive features that follows the curves in the road. An auto-dipping function switches automatically between high and low beam. Other amenities include heated windshield, seats, and steering wheel; keyless entry system; powered tailgate; hard drive navigation system; Bluetooth® hand-free phone connectivity; 825W Meridian surround sound system; and rear seat entertainment package, with 8-inch (203 mm) video screens, digital wireless headphones and touch screen remote control. At the heart of the control system is the Range Rover eight-inch high-definition touch-screen display. The touchscreen provides the primary control and display system for a range of features including audio, video, navigation and phone. Simple hard keys on either side of the display provide short cuts
to the most commonly used screens, such as Home, Audio/ Video, Navigation and Phone. An additional five-inch color display between the two instrument dials in the gauge cluster shows the primary vehicle-related information. A sophisticated voice control system works with ‘Say What You See’ prompts in the cluster display. Rather than using a traditional trim hierarchy, the Range Rover Evoque gives customers the choice of three stylish design themes, each of which has its own distinctive character: ‘Pure’, ‘Prestige’, and ‘Dynamic’. ‘Pure’ combines the concept-car exterior with a stylish, clean interior in neutral colors to highlight the pure, simple forms of the cabin architecture. ‘Prestige’ represents ultimate Range Rover luxury, combining a bespoke exterior that includes unique, 19-inch wheels and sparkling metallic details with an interior that is almost entirely leather-wrapped. Luxurious duo-tone color schemes are embellished by premium leather, twinneedle stitching and real wood and metal finishes. Bold touches define ‘Dynamic’, including 19 or 20-inch wheels and unique bumpers, sills, grille and tailpipes for a more assertive, confident stance. Contrasting roof and spoiler colors are available. Te premium sports interior offers a darker
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environment with splashes of bright contrast color, together with perforated leather seats and sports detailing. Every customer has the opportunity to tailor their vehicle to their lifestyle. A vast number of color and feature combinations are available, such as contrasting roof colors and stylish designer interiors. Owners can also choose from a broad selection of official Range Rover accessories. Te accessory range includes styling components, together with a comprehensive choice of practical loading and towing items. Exterior styling items include tubular rocker guards, colored wheel centers, and alloy wheels. Within the vehicle, customers can select features like metal sports pedals, illuminated aluminum and chrome tread plates, floormats in a variety of different materials, roof-mounted carrier systems for bicycles and outdoors sports, and a towing package and can be used with a tow hitch mounted bicycle carriers. David Mitchell, Land Rover’s Chief Program Engineer said, “Te Range Rover Evoque provides the complete Range Rover experience, but packaged into a smaller, more attainable car. Many of the new customers will be more youthful, tech-savvy buyers, whose expectations will be exceeded with the rich array of premium features that will make ownership a real pleasure.”
Te all-new Range Rover Evoque sends a powerful message that the company is serious about sustainability, and determined to deliver vehicles that are both relevant and highly desirable. As a smaller, lighter and more efficient Range Rover, the Range Rover Evoque addresses the growing consumer need for more environmentally friendly vehicles. As part of the comprehensive effort to minimize the car’s ecological impact, the Range Rover Evoque focuses on the use of more sustainable materials. David Mitchell, Land Rover's Chief Program Engineer said, “Te greener credentials of the Range Rover Evoque stem from a comprehensive approach to reducing its environmental impact, not just during customer use, but throughout the entire life-cycle of the car. Tis whole-life approach allows us to consider the best ways of minimizing the overall carbon footprint, taking account of development, manufacturing and end-of-life recycling, so that we can make smart, more sustainable decisions” The Range Rover Evoque will be manufactured in the UK, at Land Rover's multi-award winning Halewood plant in Merseyside. It will go on sale in more than 160 markets worldwide, with North American deliveries from Fall 2011. Estimated base price is around $45,000 USD. sl
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A Sophisticated Season FASHION TO FALL FOR Photography by Andrew Kung
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Hair and makeup by Ana Crane-Simpson; Models: Kevin Chapman, Tiany Cline and Amber Henry. 64 slmag.net
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1| On her: 525 America Mongolian Lamb vest (525america.com) and Tibi stretch wood bow short (tibi.com); Maraschino by Catherine Jones necklace (ilovemaraschino.com) On him: Isaia grey windowpane suit, Etro plum & fuchsia paisley pocket square, Eton bright blue striped dress shirt, Italo Ferretti pink circle print tie, Tornio black alligator belt – all from Rodes for Him (rodes.com; 502-753-7633); Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea from Richter Phillips Jewelers (richterphillips.com; 513- 241-3510). 2| Hearts on Fire ‘Hoopla’ diamond earrings and graduated diamond tennis necklace (heartsonfire.com); Badgley Mischka strapless matte jersey evening dress with beaded detail (badgleymischka.com).
5 3| Barbour New Country hat, shirt & quilt vest – all from the Keeneland Shop (keeneland.stores.truition.com; 859-254-3412); True Religion denim (truereligionbrandjeans.com). 6
4| Barbour ‘Lady Jane’ hat, Kinross cashmere turtleneck and Rani Arabella cashmere vest – all from the Keeneland Shop (keeneland. stores.truition.com; 859-254-3412); Kir Collection hammered bangles (kircollection.com). 5| Etro light grey sport coat, maroon & green plaid causal shirt, and teal & purple paisley pocket square; Agave denim; Tornio brown belt – all from Rodes for Him (rodes.com; 502-753-7633) Panerai Luminor Submersible Titanium Black wristwatch (panerai.com).
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6| Z Spoke by Zac Posen dress (zspoke.us); Multi-stone lariat necklace from St. John & Myers (stjohnandmyers); Frye ‘Billy’ pull-on boot (thefryecompany.com); Hermès saddle pad (hermes.com). 7| Lauren Moffatt ‘Pancho & Lefty’ A-line Dress (laurenmoffatt.net); Kate Spade ‘Kirsti’ linen patent pump (katespade.com).
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8| On her: Milly ‘Jenny’ belted dress (millyny.com); Kate Spade ‘Licorice Too’ multi-glitter pump (katespade.com) On him: Fraas wool & cashmere scarf from the Keeneland Shop (keeneland.stores.truition. com; 859-254-3412); 7 Diamonds jacket (7diamonds.com); True Religion denim (truereligionbrandjeans.com). 9| Summer Eliason earrings (summereliason.com); Tread Social ‘Poppy’ shirt dress (threadsocial.com); Steve Madden platform pumps (stevemadden.com).
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10| Ermenegildo Zegna navy striped suit, Robert Talbott navy and pink paisley pocket square, Italo Ferretti navy tie with fuchsia circle print, Robert Talbott light blue striped dress shirt with navy stripe and Tornio cognac alligator belt – all from Rodes for Him (rodes.com; 502-7537633). Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust in Stainless Steel and 18k gold from Richter Phillips Jewelers (richterphillips.com; 513- 241-3510). 11| Honora Tahitian pearl and diamond drop earrings and Tahitian cultured pearl strand (honora.com); Carolina Herrera evening gown from Glasscock/Chic Boutique (glasscockinc.com; 897-0277). slmag.net
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Orchids at Palm Court Written by Bridget Williams Photography by Andrew Kung
Te French Art Deco environs of Orchids at Palm Court provide a beautifully apropos stage for Chef Todd Kelly’s culinary theatrics. Craning my neck to admire the impressive two-story space with its Romanesque murals and original Rookwood Pottery fountain each time I have the pleasure of dining there, I need only briefly close my eyes to travel back in time and picture myself as an extra on the silver screen.
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Enjoying an AAA Four Diamond ranking for the sixth consecutive year, Orchids was also recently recognized by Zagat as Cincinnati’s “best overall” restaurant for 2011 and by OpenTable as one of the top 50 restaurants in the U.S. in 2010. Recent changes to the menu and the environs reflect an effort to meld the historic ambiance with current culinary concepts. Te physical changes have manifested themselves subtly: the addition of eight additional tables; minimalist table décor with candle votives and sleek glass vases containing submerged orchids and sea grass; and larger menus. Changes to the menu balanced the need to retain popular mainstays with remaining in the forefront of fine dining in the Queen City. Executive Chef Todd Kelly, who has worked at the Hilton Cincinnati Netherland Plaza
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since 2006, oversees all culinary operations at the historic hotel, as well as a staff of 65. His accolades continue to pile up, and this past July he received the American Culinary Federation, Inc. 2011 U.S.A.’s Chef of the Year award at the 2011 ACF National Convention held at the Gaylord Texan in Dallas. His first cookbook, Todd Kelly’s Orchids at Palm Court, co-written with culinary blogger Courtney Tsitouris, will be available this fall. Unable to select from so many tempting offerings during a recent visit, both my tablemate and I chose to have the chef select for us by ordering the five-course prix fixe tasting menu ($65/$85 with wine pairings). I went the vegetarian route, as the inventiveness and range of flavors presented on paper seemed instantly appealing.
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Dinner for me began with an Eden Farms watercress salad dressed with golden beets, goat cheese and hazelnut granola. I love how the beets mellowed the crisp peppery bite of the hydroponically grown watercress. My partner’s culinary adventure started out with Maine lobster salad prepared with organic fried egg, parsley, crème fraiche and caviar crème. We enjoyed our first course with a bread service accompanied by a trio of spreads. While the piquillo pepper pesto was my favorite, the honey wheat rolls were quite delicious on their own. The fried green tomato salad offered for the second course certainly highlighted summer’s bounty at the peak of flavor. Te firm tomatoes were perfectly seasoned with a thin layer of flavorful breading that provided just enough crunchiness. By the time the third course was presented, we looked at each other across the table and remarked out loud in near unison: how were we possibly going to finish the last two? I have duly noted that should I choose the prix fixe on future visits I need to pace myself a little better! Feelings of overindulged satiation quickly passed when given a dish of morel mushrooms and creamed Vidalia onions with purslane (a succulent herb that looks like a miniature jade plant) perched upon a vol-au-vent (a small hollow case of puff pastry). Calling attention to the dish like an exclamation point, a vibrantly hued hibiscus reduction was spread across the length of the plate with a painterly stroke. Every bite was absolutely delectable, making this course the highlight of my meal. Trying veal sweetbreads (with some apprehension) for the first time, my husband was pleasantly surprised and won over by the sherry vinaigrette and the accompanying celery salad and Shiitake mushrooms.
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Our entrees included marinated “smoked” tofu and Prime New York Strip Loin with pickled ramps, white asparagus, Delfina potatoes and marrow sauce. It was my turn to be pleasantly surprised as wafts of smoky aroma from the tofu preceded a flavorful sampling of what could otherwise be a flavorless cube in less skilled hands. As someone who has flirted with being a vegetarian for the better part of 20 years, I am often steered to the meat side of menus in most upscale restaurants for a lack of palatable options. Kelly has certainly raised the bar in this aspect, allowing one to forgo meat without sacrificing flavor or variety.
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The dessert course was the same for both of us: a duet of Bavarian chocolate mousse and frozen lavender glacé. For the sake of journalism we finished the artfully presented pair, and I enjoyed alternating between the richness of the chocolate against the airiness and flowery notes of the glacé. Service was prompt but not stuffy and I loved how the wait staff, attired in contemporary Orchids logo-bedecked vests, presented and removed dishes with coordinated precision. Attention from the maitre d’, a Level II Certified Sommelier, was equally on par; he graciously replaced a Bordeaux that was unexpectedly too strong for our palette with a milder Pinot Noir even after we had taken several sips in an effort to acclimate ourselves to the bold taste profile. Located in the Hilton Cincinnati Netherland Plaza (35 West Fifth Street) Orchids at Palm Court is open nightly for dinner (5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.). Reservations can be made by calling 513.421.9100 or visiting orchidsatpalmcourt.com. sl
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Society
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KSO Summer Series, 7:30pm, Devou Park, kyso.org Cowan’s American Indian & Western Art Auction, 10am, Cowan’s Auctions, cowans.com Bloom for Stepping Stones, 6:30pm, 7175 Given Road, steppingstonescenter.org Gourmet Sensation, 7pm Duke Energy Center, bethesdafoundation.com/events/gourmetsensation Gentlemen of Style & Substance, Saks Fifth Avenue, alicia.krall@cincinnati-oh.gov Let It Breathe for Cystic Fibrosis Foundation, 6 p.m. Bell Event Centre, cff.org/Chapters/cincinnati Zoofari, 6pm, Cincinnati Zoo, cincinnatizoo.org/events/zoofari The Key Event for the Community Foundation of West Chester, 5pm, Marriott North, wclfoundation.org On the Road Culinary Adventures Kentucky Tour, ontheroadculinaryadventures.com Dress for Success Luncheon, 11am, Hyatt Regency, dfscincy.org Light the Night Walk, Sawyer Point, lightthenight.org/soh Golf Classic for Bluegrass Hospice, Twin Oaks Golf & Plantation, hospicebg.org Constella Festival Music with a View, 5pm, The Kenwood by Senior Star, eventbee.com/v/constellamusicwithaview Cincinnati Flower Show Dramatic Table Settings Opening Night, 6pm, The Kenwood, cincyflowershow.com Council on Child Abuse Wine Tasting, Montgomery Inn Boathouse, cocachild.org
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Cincinnati Flower Show Guess Who Is Coming to Dinner Celebrity Evening, 6pm, The Kenwood, mjhrags@gmail.com. Red Tie Gala for Ronald McDonald House Charities, Hyatt Regency, rmhcincinnati.org Evening at the Barn, gala and auction for Woman’s Art Club, 6pm. 6980 Cambridge Ave in Mariemont, womansartclub.com Walk for ALS, 11am, Winton Woods, alsa.org Pink Ribbon Luncheon, 10:30am, Duke Energy Center Ballroom, ccpfevents@proscan.com Zoo Brew, 6:30pm, Cincinnati Zoo, cincinnatizoo.org Grateful Life Foundation Gala, 6:30pm, Drees Pavilion in Devou Park, thegratefullifefoundation.org OVV 500, 11am, Motorsports Country Club of Cincinnati, wix.com/ohiovalleyv/ovv500#! Cowan’s Fall Fine & Decorative Art Auction, 10am, Cowan’s Auctions (Cincinnati), cowans.com Notre Dame Academy Autumn Gala, ndapandas.org Dream Makers Gala for Cincinnati Youth Collaborative, 7pm, Freedom Center, cycyouth.org Character Council Awards Dinner, 6:30pm, Montgomery Inn, charactercincinnati.org Wine, Women & Shoes for Impact 100, 7pm, Museum Center, impact100.org Arthritis Foundation Bone Bash, 6:30pm, The Syndicate in Newport, bonebash.org 71st Camargo Hunter Trials, camargohunt.org League for Animal Welfare Wine Tasting, 7pm, Greenacres Character & Courage Foundation All-Star Dinner, 6pm, Savannah Center, characterandcourage.org
Photography by Tony Bailey
ZOO LALA
Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Garden’s Ambassador Council and Ft. Washington Investments presented Zoo La La, a casual cocktail reception and dinner-by-the-bite event with up-close animal experiences and musical entertainment. Money raised will support the Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Garden’s diverse plant and animal collection.
Barbara & Jay Wittenbaum, Clara & Jim Harkavy, Audrey & Charlie Comins
Janet Davis, Gerri Strauss, Pam Gongola, Beth Rouse
Terri Beuttel, Mike Breetz
Dacia & Luke Snider
Sean & Elissa Donovan, Linnea & Tim Bonacci
Vickie Harmon, Emily Buckley, Karlyn Wade, Beth Gottfried
Glemda Nix, Cheryl Nix
Kaush & Mansey Amin
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Jamie & Mark Daugherty
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FURNITURE FAIR CELEBRITY GOLF EVENT
A highlight of the summer social calendar, the fourth annual event benefitted the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society. Te two-day event kicked off with a dinner with the Bengals at Paul Brown Stadium, followed by a great day of golf at Wetherington Golf & Country Club.
John & Tracey Stofa
Dawn Berryman, Ed Hartman, Michelle Steed
Matt Rowckamp, Sandra Sims
Marian & Grant Dibert, Nancy Francis
Derrick Bowman, Ed Hartman, Karmen Hartman
Bill Daniels, Molly & Scott Dunn
Matt & Sara Reardon, Nicole & Mike Fredick
Anthony Munoz, Tracey & John Stofa
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Photography by Tony Bailey
Alex Lukondi, Tina Bruno
Dave Mesker, Phyllis Stacey
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Justine Hammond, Jason Drengler
BROWN JORDAN find inspiration at brownjordan.com Day Lily II design: John Caldwell
BEATING THE MELANOMA BLUES
Presented by Clayton L. Scroggins Associates and held at the Maier family residence in Indian Hill, the casual chic cocktail reception to benefit Melanoma Know More (MKM) featured music performed by boogie piano blues artists from around the world in addition to raffles, a silent auction and an expert panel discussion regarding the latest advancements in Melanoma research.
Karen Maier, Sarah Brown, Lori Wellinghoff, Dave Brown, Michele Semona
Dr. Phil Leming, Dr Jeffrey Sussman
Photography by Tony Bailey
Kim & John Schenk
Gary & Laura Gleason
Steve Mathews, Rob Scroggings, Mike Maisel, Paula Badovick, Mark & Sarah Scroggins
Dr. Susan Kindel, Kara Shah, Molly Dysen, Mark England, Michael Handley
Mary Allen, Kimberly Fowler, Becky Miars, Linda Shaw, Kristie Roth
Gloria Walker, Jerry Maxey, Anisea Bennett
Connie Cook, Charles Bretz
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MKM strives to reduce the impact of melanoma through awareness, education, support of medical research, and assistance to persons aected by melanoma.
PJ & CJ McDonald, Aleiso Yusko
Dianne Brown, Joy & Tim Deardor
Dana & Susan Ede
Jim McVey, Melissa Hllis
Anne Maier, Irene & Anthony Zalants
Barb Farwick, Kathy Wade, Karlyn Wade, Dana Foltz, Andi McBride
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NATIONAL FATHER & SON CLAY COURT CHAMPIONSHIPS
Cincinnati Tennis Club hosted an outdoor barbeque to kickoff the USTAsanctioned National Father and Son Clay Court Championships, presented by First Financial Bank. Winners of this year’s event were Jerry and Brett Morse-Karzen.
Paul & Laura Brunner
Don Yelton, Brian Leshner, Ann Saluke, Bob & Justine Uhrig
Photography by Tony Bailey
Amy Neyer, Pete & Ann Williams
Social Denis Back, Judith Curtin
Bruce Daniel, Jim Wendel, Bill Rosen
Karen Wendel, Bev Skurow, Lynn Rosen, Noreen Daniel
Brandon Stacey, Sarah and Gregory Stacey
Donna Shapleigh, Bobbie Unneweh, Peter Shapleigh
Tracey Smith, Stan Mambort, Wendy Wilson
Cathy & Jerry Momper
Seth & Suzanna Schwartz
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Jim Farley, Phyllis & Pete Tobias
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Richard & Teddie Curry
Unbridled
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Enjoy your bourbon responsibly. Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 45.2% Alc. by Vol., The Woodford Reserve Distillery, Versailles, KY ©2008.
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