FINISH LINE
what can you say about 2024?
My first instinct is “byeeeee.”
Extreme weather events, geopolitical tensions, and rising cost-of-living pressures created significant challenges for both consumers and businesses throughout the year. Amidst this turbulence, the denim industry continued its paradoxical stance, advocating for cost-neutral sustainable innovations. Meanwhile, many companies found themselves in a state of uncertainty, closely watching the U.S. presidential election results. At Kingpins Amsterdam in October, whispers circulated about potential shifts in sourcing strategies should a second Trump term come to fruition. On social media, content creators on platforms like TikTok took it upon themselves to educate the American public on the complexities of tariffs, dispelling the common misconception that the exporting country bears the cost—doom scrolling with a side of economics.
For all these reasons—and many more—it made the joyful fashion moments feel even more electrifying. Western fashion burst onto the scene when cultural curator Pharrell Williams presented his rodeoinspired Louis Vuitton Men’s collection in January. Brands tapped into consumers’ love for nostalgic, allAmerican fashion with special collections celebrating the Paris Summer Olympics. Levi’s and Wrangler unveiled campaigns with two of music’s biggest stars, Beyoncé and Lainey Wilson. Cool girls went wild for leopard print jeans and denim continued to make a statement on the red carpet. In “Big Denim Moments of 2024” on pg. 28, we look back at the year’s most impactful campaigns, collections and market trends.
While the end of the year is a time to reflect, it’s also an opportunity to look ahead. Mills are preparing for hotter summers and more discerning customers. In “Material World” pg. 52, we take a deep dive into the ways mills are innovating fabrics for Spring/Summer 2026. Though selvedge has historical roots, the fabric is benefiting from new fibers and dye technologies. In “Off the Loom” pg. 48, fabric producers share how they’re building sustainability and performance into the heritage fabric. In “Circular Catalyst” pg. 40, we catch up with Tricia Carey, formerly of Lenzing and Renewcell, to talk about her next steps and the state of the denim industry.
At Rivet, we’re excited to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Rivet magazine, and we’re doing so with an even greater emphasis on the visionary companies and individuals who will define the next decade of denim. Stay tuned for exciting updates on what we have in store for 2025.
In the meantime, we wish you a happy, healthy and peaceful holiday season.
Jay Penske Chairman & CEO
Gerry Byrne Vice Chairman
George Grobar Chief Operating Officer
Sarlina See Chief Accounting Officer
Craig Perreault Chief Digital Officer
Todd Greene EVP, Business Affairs & Chief Legal Officer
Celine Perrot-Johnson EVP, Operations & Finance
Paul Rainey EVP, Operations & Finance
Tom Finn EVP, Operations & Finance
Jenny Connelly EVP, Product & Engineering
Ken DelAlcazar EVP, Finance
Debashish Ghosh Managing Director, International Markets
Dan Owen EVP, GM of Strategic Industry Group
Brian Levine Senior Vice President, Revenue Operations
Brooke Jaffe Senior Vice President, Public Affairs & Strategy
David Roberson Senior Vice President, Subscriptions
Doug Bandes Senior Vice President, Partnerships PMC Live Frank McCallick Senior Vice President, Global Tax
Gabriel Koen Senior Vice President, Technology
Jessica Kadden Senior Vice President, Programmatic Sales
Judith R. Margolin Senior Vice President, Deputy General Counsel
Lauren Utecht Senior Vice President, Human Resources
Marissa O’Hare Senior Vice President, Business Development Nelson Anderson Senior Vice President, Creative
INTERNATIONAL
Olga
Barbra
OPERATIONS
Ashley
Julianna Cerchio Executive Director Joy Chernus Senior Director
Gregory Pepe Manager, Events
Elizabeth Hernandez Senior Associate, Events
Sophie Guzmán Events Coordinator
Lauren Simeone Director, Audience Development
Trish Reidy Attendee Sales Manager
EVENT PROGRAMMING
Caroline Daddario Executive Director, Head of Programming
Alice Song Senior Manager, Programming and Special Projects
Adrian White Vice President, Associate General Counsel
Andrew Root Vice President, Digital Marketing
Andy Limpus Vice President, Executive Search & Head of Talent Acquisition
Anne Doyle Vice President, Human Resources
Brian Vrabel Head of Industry, CPG and Health
Constance Ejuma Vice President, SEO
Courtney Goldstein Vice President, Human Resources
Dan Feinberg Vice President, Associate General Counsel
Denise Tooman Vice President, Marketing, Strategic Solutions Group
Eddie Ko Vice President, Advertising Operations
Gurjeet Chima Vice President, International Markets
Jennifer Garber Head of Industry, Travel
Jerry Ruiz Vice President, Acquisitions & Operations
Joni Antonacci Vice President, Production Operations
Karen Reed Vice President, Finance
Karl Walter Vice President, Content
Kay Swift Vice President, Information Technology
Keir
Matthew
Mike
Richard
Scott
Sonal
Thomas
Tom McGinnis Vice President, Corporate Controller
Angela Jean Velasquez RIVET EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Kerry Steib, Resonance
06
GIFTED
Rivet unwraps the best holiday gift ideas for denim trendsetters.
13
THE ZEITGIST
The films, series and festivals to watch in 2025.
16
MASS APPEAL
Boston-based Injeanius helps women find their perfect fit.
18
TAKING STOCK
Erin Beatty, founder of Rentrayage, on building a brand that lasts.
20
ON THE BLOCK
Denim collectors are scooping up rare jeans at auction.
22
RUNWAY REPORT
The Spring/Summer 2025 denim landscape is both familiar and refreshingly new.
28
BIG DENIM MOMENTS OF 2024
Look back at the year’s unforgettable denim moments.
40
CIRCULAR CATALYST
Tricia Carey discusses life after Renewcell and Lenzing.
44
◄ FANTASTICAL FASHION
What makes generative AI for design difficult to conquer at scale?
48
OFF THE LOOM
Mills from around the globe are honing their craft in the art of selvedge denim.
52
MATERIAL WORLD
Mills are enhancing their Spring/Summer 2026 fabrics to address the increasing demands of consumers.
58
COWBOY COOL AND CONSISTENT
Western fashion may have nabbed some new headlines this year but it always has a home on the runway.
/ DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK LIQ
Archroma’s newest and cleanest sulfur black dyestu ever
Achieve authentic black denim and washdown e ects with an overall impact reduction of 57%*, compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.
*As determined by Ecoterrae, a leading Spain-based sustainability consulting firm, through a Life Cycle Analysis (UNE-EN ISO 14044:2006) at the synthesis stage, using the ReCiPe 2016 Impact calculation methodology.
HOW SAPPHIRE MILLS CUT SCOPE 1 AND 2
EMISSIONS
BY 54.7 PERCENT FROM ITS 2022 BASELINE
SSAPPHIRE MILLS, part of the Sapphire Group, has long stood at the forefront of sustainable textile production, known for its high-quality woven, dyed and printed fabrics and its deep-rooted commitment to “People, Planet and Prosperity.” Guided by this vision, Sapphire Mills embraces a cleaner, greener future where every innovation moves the company— and the industry—closer to a world of environmental responsibility and social impact.
Here, Raffay Bin Rauf, head of sustainability at Sapphire Mills, discusses how the Pakistanbased mill is blending innovative technology with local solutions to reduce water usage and phase out coal dependency.
RIVET: How did Sapphire Mills significantly reduce Scope 1 and 2 emissions compared to its 2022 baseline?
Raffay Bin Rauf: We set out with a clear purpose—to reduce our emissions footprint while creating meaningful benefits for the community around us. Sapphire Mills has achieved a 54.7 percent reduction in Scope 1 and 2 emissions. Our dual-purpose co-generation plant was one of the biggest game-changers. It produces both electricity and steam, relying on natural fuels to power our processes. We source these fuels directly from farms and store them in our own biomass collection centers, gathering agricultural crop by-products like rice husk, brassica straw and wheat stalks.
“IN OUR REGION, WATER IS INVALUABLE, AND WE BELIEVE CONSERVING IT IS ONE OF THE MOST MEANINGFUL CONTRIBUTIONS WE CAN MAKE.”
RAFFAY BIN RAUF, head of sustainability, Sapphire Mills
This transition doesn’t just benefit Sapphire—it also supports local farmers by offering a sustainable solution to agricultural waste, keeping the environment cleaner by reducing open burning. The results from extensive trials have been inspiring, as we’ve dramatically decreased our coal usage, making coal-related emissions nearly obsolete. Plus, our 1.07 megawatt (MW) solar system now powers 70 percent of our garment unit’s operations, further shrinking our carbon footprint. As we move forward, scaling up biomass collection and renewable energy initiatives will remain our focus.
What technologies does Sapphire Mills use to reduce water consumption in its manufacturing processes?
R.B.R.: In our region, water is invaluable, and we believe conserving it is one of the most
meaningful contributions we can make. Our sustainability journey led us to pioneer a range of watersaving technologies that allow us to significantly reduce consumption without compromising quality. For example, our Core System enables us to cut water usage by up to 96 percent compared to traditional washing methods. Technologies like SMART foam transform liquid chemicals into foam, allowing us to optimize both chemical and water use. With the Up System, we’ve managed to slash water and energy consumption by 50 percent in our dyeing and washing processes.
Our journey extends beyond technology; thoughtful production planning helps us prevent water waste, while we actively recycle non-contact cooling water within fabric processing. Additionally, we implemented heat and water recovery systems that help conserve resources. Soon, we’ll be launching a wastewater recycling project to further our water conservation efforts. This journey reflects Sapphire Mills’ dedication to protecting the planet for future generations.
What is your top sustainability prediction for the denim industry as we head into 2025?
R.B.R.: By 2025, I foresee a denim and woven industry that has significantly reduced both its carbon and water footprints. Integrating digital tracking systems will allow manufacturers to assess and fine-tune energyintensive processes with greater precision, transforming insights into impactful improvements. Technologies like life cycle assessments (LCAs) and digital product passports (DPPs) will guide data-driven decisions, helping us be more transparent and environmentally conscious. Ultimately, this industry-wide commitment means we’ll see more sustainable production practices and a stronger connection between brands and conscious consumers.■
GIFTED
Rivet curates the ultimate holiday gift guide for denim heads of all ages.
COUNTRY COMFORTS
Arguably the defining trend of 2024, Western fashion shows no signs of slowing down. From contemporary twists on classic cowboy boots and hats to timeless denim silhouettes and artisanal jewelry,
▲ PATRICIA NASH TOTE
▲ CHAZLYN COWBOY BOOT
▼ JOHNNY WAS X SASSON JEANS
▲ DYNAMITE BELT
▲ GAP X CULT GAIA SKIRT
▲ ZANDRIA HAT
MONTANA
SCANDI COOL
The Scandinavian cool-girl aesthetic brings joy to fashion with playful accessories and personality-packed denim. Featuring vibrant pops of color, intriguing textures and voluminous silhouettes, this style radiates a refreshing, effortless charm. AV
VENIROE RING ▼
▲ BOMBAS SLIPPER
▲
WRANGLER X HAPPY SOCKS SOCKS ▲
▲ GANNI JACKET
▲ GHURKA BACKPACK
PREP STARS
The nostalgic allure of preppy fashion captivates both boys’ and girls’ wardrobes this season. Varsity staples like letterman jackets and rugby shirts exude effortless cool, while velvet slippers, classic trench coats and sentimental accessories appeal to the hearts of old souls. AV
RALPH LAUREN CHINOS
ABERCROMBIE KIDS SWEATER
BRAT GENERATION
Give the gift of unapologetically bold style this holiday season with brat essentials: designer denim, cheeky accessories, nostalgic scents and colorful statement pieces. ANDRE CLAUDIO
▲ TANNER FLETCHER JEWELRY BOX
▲ CELINE SUNGLASSES
INDIGO CULTURE
Drawing inspiration from both the past and the future, denim enthusiasts will cherish meticulously crafted pieces that combine function and beauty. Nomadic essentials, durable denim, and cozy accessories are bound to resonate with this stylish-yet-practical group. AV
▲ JOSEPH DUCLOS BAG
▲
▲ GINEW
▲ HOKA SLIP-ON SHOE
THE ZEITGEIST
The films, series and festivals to watch in 2025.
MOVIES
CAPTAIN AMERICA: BRAVE NEW WORLD
“Captain America: Brave New World” will hit theaters on Feb. 14, featuring Anthony Mackie as Sam Wilson (a.k.a. Captain America).
He’ll be joined by other actors like Danny Ramirez, Shira Haas, Xosha Roquemore, Carl Lumbly, Giancarlo Esposito, Liv Tyler, Tim Blake Nelson and Harrison Ford.
In the film, after a meeting with President Thaddeus Ross, Sam finds himself embroiled in an international crisis. He must uncover the motives behind a sinister global plot before the true mastermind can plunge the world into chaos.
M3GAN 2.0
Ready or not, here comes “M3GAN 2.0.”
The sequel to the 2022 horror/sci-fi flick is set to hit theaters on June 27. In October, mega-producer Jason Blum and actress Allison Williams, who plays Gemma—the deuteragonist and hidden villainess of the M3GAN franchise—gave fans a sneak peek of the new movie at New York Comic Con. While many details are still under wraps, the film will feature an evolved version—and potentially multiple versions—of the original M3GAN, now stronger and faster.
SNOW WHITE
Disney fans have a live-action musical reimagining of the
▲ Anthony Mackle takes on the role of Captain America.
classic 1937 film “Snow White” to look forward to. On March 25, Disney’s “Snow White” will hit theaters worldwide, taking audiences on a “magical music adventure” back to this timeless
story, featuring beloved characters like Bashful, Doc, Dopey, Grumpy, Happy, Sleepy and Sneezy. Directed by Marc Webb and produced by Marc Platt and Jared LeBoff, the film stars 23-year-old Rachel Zegler—who gained fame for her role as Lucy Gray Baird in “The Hunger Games: The Ballad of Songbirds & Snakes”—as Snow White herself.
TV SHOWS
DAREDEVIL:
BORN AGAIN
A new daredevil is coming to Disney+. In March, the streaming platform will release “Daredevil: Born Again,” a Marvel Television series featuring Matt Murdock (played by Charlie Cox), a blind lawyer with heightened senses who fights for justice through his bustling law firm. Meanwhile, former mob boss Wilson Fisk (played by Vincent D’Onofrio) pursues his own political ambitions in New York.
EUPHORIA
Euphoria season three is finally on its way following a three-year hiatus. The HBO teen drama—and hotbed for rising talent—featuring Zendaya, Jacob Elordi, Sydney Sweeney and Hunter Schafer, will
include a time jump that moves the characters out of high school.
Costume designer Heidi Bivens has confirmed that the season will take place about five years in the future, according to ELLE magazine. While production won’t start until January, producers have confirmed that the new season is set to premiere in 2025.
SYNDEN
Netflix has a new murder mystery on its hands. In 2025, the streaming service will release a new series titled “Synden.”
The show follows investigator Dani (played by Krista Kosonen) and her newly graduated
heading to Mexico in 2025 for its biggest festival. From April 4- 6, 2025, pop superstars
Olivia Rodrigo and Justin Timberlake will headline the 14th edition of the Tecate Pa’l Norte festival, a massive music celebration held annually in Monterrey. Joining them are Green Day, Fall Out Boy, Charli XCX, The Chainsmokers and many more.
SAND IN MY BOOTS
Saddle up, country music fans. From May 16-18, 2025, one of the biggest country music festivals will return, featuring major names like Brooks & Dunn, Morgan Wallen and Riley
police colleague Malik (played by Mohammed Nour Oklah) as they investigate the case of a teenager named Silas, who was found dead at a farmhouse on the Bjäre Peninsula. As the two investigators delve deeper, they become entangled in a dark family feud that has spanned generations.
Dani, who has a personal connection to Silas, finds herself increasingly drawn into the investigation and the families involved.
FESTIVALS
TECATE PA’L NORTE
Some of the biggest names in music—both past and present—are
Green. The lineup will also include a mix of hiphop and indie alternative bands, with headliners like Post Malone and notable artists such as 2 Chainz, T-Pain and Diplo.
PRIMAVERA SOUND
BARCELONA
Power pop girls, unite! From June 5-7, 2025, Primavera Sound Barcelona is back in full effect, featuring it-girls Charli XCX, Chappell Roan and Sabrina Carpenter as headliners. The iconic festival, held at the Parc del Fòrum in Barcelona, will also host a variety of indie rock, electronic, pop and hip-hop artists, including Kittin, Machine Girl and Magdalena Bay. ■
by Andre Claudio
▲ Charli XCX will bring brat vibes to Barcelona.
▲ Netflix's new crime drama "Synden."
“I DOVE DEEP INTO FIGURING OUT WHO I WAS AS AN ARTIST, WHAT MY SOUND WAS AND WHO I WAS AUTHENTICALLY.”
CHARLOTTE LAWRENCE’S RISE TO FAME
From singing to acting, the rising pop star can do it all. by
● Seven years ago, a then-17-year-old
Charlotte Lawrence spent her free time uploading covers to YouTube of classic songs like John Travolta and Olivia Newton-John’s “You’re the One That I Want” from “Grease.”
Not long after, she began sharing original music, like “Seventeen,” which quickly garnered attention from fans, including one who prophetically commented, “Girl, I can’t wait till you’re big and I can say I was there from the beginning...this is amazing!!!”
The Los Angeles native continued to pursue music, releasing emotional anthems about love and heartbreaks like “Bodybag” and “Morning.”
“During covid, I really honed into my inspirations. I dove deep into figuring out who I was as an artist, what my sound was and who I was authentically. I wasn’t trying to please anyone or just make music for
a smash hit, streams or anything like that,” the bubbly singer told Rivet during a Zoom interview.
“Obviously, a smash hit would be amazing, but it’s not my end goal.”
Now, seven years later, Lawrence is ready to share her debut album with the world.
Lawrence, who wrapped up a tour earlier this year with Madison Beer, confirmed that the album is complete—with enough songs to craft two albums—though a specific release date has yet to be announced.
With her debut album, she promises to deliver a “fresh sound” completely different from her previous work, while still retaining the signature Lawrence blend of dark lyrics and fun beats.
She also collaborated with some of her musical heroes––who have yet to be announced––on this project, making the album-making process
“even more special.”
“I think there’s something for everyone
Andre Claudio
on the album, and most importantly, something for me. I love every song and just want to keep going,” Lawrence said. “We’re in the final stages right now, but it’ll be out soon. Honestly, I’m really proud of it and can’t wait to share it with the world.”
While Lawrence has been balancing her singing career and finishing her album, the multihyphenate star also carved out time in 2021 to take on her
first acting role. In Apple TV+’s “Bad Monkey,” which premiered in August, she portrayed Caitlin, a young woman grieving the brutal—yet somewhat comedic— murder of her father.
The series features actor Vince Vaughn as Andrew Yancy, a former Miami Police Department officer turned health inspector, investigating the discovery of Caitlin’s father’s severed arm— the only part of his body that was found.
Q&A
What’s one thing you must have on set with you? Coffee.
What’s your favorite song to perform?
“Somewhere,” an unreleased song of mine.
How does fashion influence your music or vice versa?
I’d say my music influences my fashion.
“It’s crazy that my first [acting] job entailed me being thrust into a world with literally some of the best actors of our generation. I felt like such a sponge—I tried to soak up every single moment. Every time I got to watch other people’s scenes or do scenes with Vince or Rob Delaney, I’d just be like, ‘Oh my God, they’re so good! I want to learn. How do they do this? How are they improving?’ Everyone was just wonderful. And it was also so fun that we were all in this little acting bubble [together].”
Although learning on set was a memorable part of the experience, what truly made it special for Lawrence was having her father, Bill Lawrence, as the producer.
“It was such a blast working with my dad— he literally commands every room he walks into, but with respect and kindness. He’s truly the best leader and a wonderful person,” Lawrence said. “It was the best experience. I think it might’ve even fucked up every other [acting] experience for me, that’s how good it was. I am, however, excited to continue my acting classes and continue down this journey.” ■
When I’m creating an album or performing it, I’m being authentic to myself while also building a character and a world for the music to live in, and the best way to visually represent this world is through fashion.
What was your favorite part about touring with it-girl Madison Beer? Madison and I have been incredibly close for a long time, like over 10 years. We’ve always talked about touring together and collaborating because we genuinely love each other and respect each other's music. So, going on tour with her was like a monthlong sleepover with my best friend. The whole experience was amazing, not just with Madison, but also with both of our crews and bands.
How would you describe your style? Definitely chill or naked.
Dream role?
Anything Sofia Coppola produces.
Favorite denim brands? Levi’s and Frame.
Personal mantra?
Now is the time to work hard. I try and put work above everything else since I don't have kids yet, while still taking time to relax.
Something that keeps you up at night? My phone.
• Provides an extreme comfort and cozy feeling
• Featuring cellulosic fibers, offers perfect balance of softness and comfort
• Designed to enrich your everyday wardrobe
• New sense of freshness, relaxation and ease
MASS
while attending babson college in Wellesley, Mass., Alison Barnard O’Brien had an idea. An ingenious one, if you will. �� Sh e woul d brin g retai l to Boston’s historic North End, one of the colonial city’s first residential communities populated, primarily, by Italian immigrants. Over the decades, the district became known as Little Italy, with many businesses like butcheries and bakeries of the mom-and-pop variety. �� O’Brien ,a then-26-year-ol d homegrown business major who identified a market opportunity for bespoke denim services, saw a vacant storefront on Hanover Street and thought that this foodie neighborhood would be just the place for her boutique.
Denim trends may change but the mission of Boston-based Injeanius to help women find their perfect fit remains the same.
Not everyone saw the vision.
“I remember my professor telling me at the time that the business plan looked good, but he didn’t know if I was a good buyer. That didn’t faze me at the time; what does that mean? I’m a good buyer,” O’Brien, Injeanius’ founder, owner and “chief denim officer,” told Rivet. “Now, 20 years later, I can see the distinction between shopping for yourself and being able to put together outfits.”
Injeanius has been Boston’s premier denim destination ever since. In 2007, O’Brien was awarded Boston Magazine’s Best-ofBoston award for best women’s jeans. The publication called out O’Brien’s “uncanny gift for knowing precisely which one will give us longer-looking legs and a perkier behind that lures us back time and time again.” Injeanius took home the Best of Boston award again in 2023 for shopping.
In the span of just a few years, O’Brien was named one of Inc. Magazine’s “30 Under 30,” voted as one of “Boston’s 25 Most Stylish” by the Boston Globe and christened “The Butt Whisperer” by the Boston Herald.
But the queen of jeans began outgrowing the 600-square-foot shop in the North End and tried on Newberry Street—the city’s “shopping mecca” at the time—for size. It wasn’t the best fit, geographically speaking. It was also 2020, and Injeanius rebranded to communicate “elevate the everyday.” At the same time, the once-industrial area known as the Seaport District was also undergoing a rebrand of sorts. The peninsula’s old textile factories and artist communities became luxury lofts and mixed-use buildings with green spaces.
Considering the parallels, O’Brien set out for a fresh start. She secured a pop-up spot at the Current—a retail pop-up village in the area—before settling in the summer of 2022 at the Superette, also in Seaport. The 1,100-square-foot storefront was the first female-owned, local business to open in the European-inspired shopping hub.
It’s also twice the size of her original outpost.“It’s been great for my business, it’s allowed me to have a new life and grow in a different way,” O’Brien said of the new space, noting that her previous shop needed renovations. Instead, she outfitted the flagship with a terrazzo-topped denim bar, a chandelier comprised of vine-like denim strips and blue arches dividing fitting rooms from the “style lounge.”
“It gave me the opportunity to have this one, really great store that people come to that’s beautiful but also comfortable and open,” she said. “Somewhere you feel like you can hang out.”
Injeanius even worked with a local candlemaker to develop a signature scent for the store. Named “Elevate,” the candle consists of lemon, basil, sea salt, lilac—all
APPEAL
of “the things I wanted the interior to make you feel,” O’Brien said. “When you smell it, it’s uplifting but calming and energizing.”
More than a makeover, the move reinforced O’Brien’s reputation as the “Blue Jean Queen” but was also an opportunity to do more than denim. Taking advantage of the extra space, O’Brien outfitted the style lounge with a curved velvet sofa and a rolling rack of tops to pair with the denim du jour.
“When I was doing the research to open, I found out women buy two tops for every bottom,” she said. “So why would you have a store that’s exclusively bottoms when you need to have that turn of a top?”
Today, Injeanius carries a healthy mix of denim and everyday pieces through the 60-plus brands stocking the storefront. About half of the boutique’s sales are from jeans, while the other half comprises other garments and accessories.
“Women are loyal to fit, they are not loyal to a brand,” O’Brien said. “They think they like a brand, but as soon as that fit doesn’t work for them, bye.”
That said, brands like Re/Done, Paige and Mother Denim sit alongside designers like Bella Dahl, Brodie Cashmere and Bishop & Young.
“I feel like Citizens of Humanity has really changed their game,” O’Brien said, noting that Injeanius carried the Los Angeles premium label since day one. However, there was a lull where “the fits weren’t fitting,” so she stopped carrying the brand. “Now, I really love everything they’re doing, from all aspects of fashion to also, like, what they’re doing for the environment and regenerative agriculture, I think is so cool.”
◄ Shoppers are greeted by a terrazzo-topped denim bar and a custom denim chandelier.
▼ Injeanius sold 1,348 pairs of jeans in 2023. Best-selling brands were Mother, Citizens of Humanity, Paige, Fidelity and Agolde.
by Alex Harrell
Customers keep her guessing, too. “I never would have thought in a million years that the barrel would have lasted as long as it has,” O’Brien said. “People are coming in—even in Boston—wanting to try the barrel. So, we have variations; Agolde’s Luna Split, Pistola’s baby barrel sells well.”
Her Bostonian clients are beholden to one, particularly tight, style. “People walk in, and they go, ‘I guess I need to get rid of my skinny jeans.’ And I’m like, well you don’t have to get rid of them, you can have them if you enjoy wearing them. You do you,” O’Brien said. “But if you want to try something new, let’s try something new.”
This is where the journey begins. O’Brien pulls what she calls a “gateway” jean: a cropped boot cut that’s tight in the knee before kicking out. If you go from skinny to straight, it’s too confusing, she said. Once she gets skinny-stans to test the waters, they’re willing to try a tailored wide leg or an anklelength straight leg.
O’Brien shares one such case: a husband watched his post-partum wife struggle to find flattering jeans before nearly crying tears of joy when the perfect pair emerged.
“His wife was so happy, and he was like, ‘Wow, who knew? Like, you’re not just selling clothes, you’re actually making people feel better.’ And I’m like, yes, this is why I’m in this,” O’Brien said. “It’s not to sling clothes, it’s to actually help people feel better about themselves.”
One challenge—which she agonizes
WOMEN ARE LOYAL TO FIT, THEY ARE NOT LOYAL TO A BRAND.”
Alison Barnard O’Brien
over—is plus-size offerings. “I just want to be mindful of fit and quality,” O’Brien said. “There are some brands I’ve looked at that do offer a broader size range, but I don’t think the quality is as good as the ones that we’ve been able to carry.”
For every new denim label Injeanius carries, O’Brien does her homework, focused on pocket placement and material matrix. “I’m never going to buy a new brand without trying it on myself—that’s a recipe for disaster—so I’ll test a couple of styles and see how it goes,” she said. “We just started testing Le Jean, and it’s been doing really well; it’s soft and drapey and looks sophisticated. We’re going go a little deeper there for spring and give it a try.”
While O’Brien is still in the store a few times a week, she takes pride in having infused her team of 10 with her polite yet honest method to help women find the right fit.
“Like, I’m not gonna be mean to you,” O’Brien said. “But I am going tell you that we can do better, so let’s find something together.” ■
TAKING STOCK
rentrayage didn’t begin as a denim brand, and its founder, Erin Beatty, comes from different stock than the denim heads that dominate the sector.
The classically trained designer, with more than two decades of industry experience with leading commercial brands, has found herself at the helm of a label that showcases the heritage fabric through a new lens. With fresh silhouettes, thoughtful styling and sustainable production processes, the New York-based designer aims to bring its jeans to a shopping public that Beatty believes is yearning to buy with a purpose.
In the age of lightning-fast, social-mediadriven trend cycles and a litany of cheap channels for participating in fashion fads, “I think that’s the hardest thing right now is how you connect with people,” she told Rivet. “They just want to feel something.”
Beatty, who graduated from Parsons before stints at Donna Karan, Gap Inc., Generra and Tory Burch, struck out on her
▲ Shading, volume and undone hems are key themes in Rentrayage’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
▼ Erin Beatty, founder of Rentrayage.
own in the early aughts, founding critically acclaimed lifestyle label Suno with partner Max Osterweis. The now-defunct brand manufactured garments in Africa using upcycled fabrics and was worn by the likes of Michelle Obama and Beyoncé, but by 2016, the pressures of the market took their toll on the business. Beatty found herself at a crossroads, wondering what to do next.
Those were the early days of fashion’s reckoning with its addiction to overproduction. “I was like, ‘Do I leave fashion? What do I do?’ It was this huge crisis of conscience,” she said. “I suddenly had two kids, and I was just really worried. I was thinking so much about the world we were going to leave for them.”
Rentrayage was born of a desire to explore a future for fashion based in sustainable design, using materials that already exist in the world.
“That’s when I really started playing with the idea of vintage and upcycling vintage,” Beatty said. The brand’s first line launched in February
Erin Beatty, founder of Rentrayage, on building a brand that lasts. by Kate Nishimura
2019 to “a huge response” from specialty retail, from London’s Browns boutique to North Carolina luxury retailer Capitol and highend Chicago women’s retailer Ikram and The Webster in Beverly Hills.
But shortly thereafter, the Covid-19 pandemic hit. While some consumers found themselves flush with a little government stimulus cash, Beatty said Rentrayage wasn’t the beneficiary of much discretionary spending. With artful, avant-garde silhouettes and limited size ranges, “Ours were the type of clothes that you had to buy in person,” she explained.
But the pause gave the designer a chance to rethink her strategy, and “to explore what we wanted to be.”
“It’s one thing to launch a brand that feels highly creative and like art, and it’s another to launch a brand that’s going to last,” she said.
For Beatty, denim was the answer to the existential questions that weighed on her mind. What are the pieces a consumer will return to
over and over? What’s essential? And what can help rid the world of fashion waste?
“We started to look at denim, which to me, just felt super classic. It felt super American. It felt like something that you could wear every single day,” she said.
Rentrayage offers a “fashion take” on denim, deviating from the handful of familiar silhouettes commonly found across collections.
“My focus is playing with proportion, playing with washes, playing with color,” she said. “And we do it in a sustainable way, in that we work with existing stock fabrics.”
The brand’s jeans are made in small batches in Los Angeles using ozone and other watersaving production processes. Beatty said she has sought to bring something different to the space than the standard denim offering: boyfriend, barrel, flare, wide-leg, boot cut.
The brand’s best-selling Silverlake jean, for example, features a full, billowy leg with a slight taper at the ankle and an elasticized waistband meant to cinch and flatter while remaining
► Photos from Rentrayage’s mood board. “In creating this collection, I’m drawn to the idea of clothing that endures. It’s about moving away from the frivolous and toward |garments that are resilient and meaningful,” Beatty said.
comfortable and relaxed. “What I was looking at, and what I loved about this, was creating the concept of a trouser that was a jean,” she explained. Meanwhile, a new style, the Kate, is a high-waisted workman style that’s fitted in the waist. “It’s not a skinny jean, but I do think it’s kind of the perfect mom jean.”
“I just started to explore offering styles that felt different, and from the moment we launched, we really started to get traction in the denim,” Beatty said. “So right now, it’s a place where I’m very focused.”
According to the designer, denim offers a different sort of canvas for creativity, but it’s a familiar one; something anyone can integrate into their wardrobe. “What I love about what we offer in denim is it feels like something that’s very classic, but it also feels like something that’s very fresh,” she said. “It feels something that’s like something that is simultaneously like your best friend from the minute you meet it, and it also makes you feel like you’re making a statement.” ■
ON THE BLOCK
last year , denim collector Brit Eaton sold a pair of jeans purported to be the oldest existing Levi’s, dating to 1873, at his annual Durango Vintage Festivus. Covered with stains and tears, the jeans fetched an astounding $100,000 at auction, purchased by a vintage clothing wholesaler in Thailand who said he plans to put the garment in a museum. → Perhaps even more surprising, Eaton’s Levi’s weren’t the most expensive jeans sold at auction. That distinction goes to another pair of Levi’s worn by late Nirvana frontman Kurt Cobain, sold last November by Julien’s Auctions for more than $400,000. → Collectors have long coveted certain fashion items such as Hermès Birkin bags or Nike Air Jordan shoes, but in more recent years, vintage jeans have become just as valuable if not more so than luxury pieces at auction. Tracey Panek, denim historian and director of the Levi Strauss & Co. archives, said jeans represent more to collectors than simply the cache of a certain brand.
“Worn Levi’s can have interesting wear patterns and are a glimpse into the life of the person wearing them, a culture or subculture,” she said. “They might have match strike marks on the right back leg of a jean indicating the Levi’s were worn by a right-handed smoker. Or the denim could be a custom Levi’s tie-dyed jacket like the one that was recently auctioned off that was worn by John Sebastian at Woodstock—it represents hippie culture and the rising youth generation of the 1960s.”
That personal connection to the wearer certainly holds true in the case of celebrityworn jeans such as the Kurt Cobain Levi’s sold by Julien’s. The rocker wore the pants in Nirvana’s “Heart-shaped Box” video, as well as onstage at the MTV Video Music Awards and on tour, and though covered in patches and holes, the connection to Cobain outweighs the condition of the garment.
“We are talking to people’s nostalgia,” said Martin Nolan, co-founder and executive director of Julien’s Auctions. “We’re all nostalgic, and we all have times in our lives— our youth or college or marriage or having your first child—and something triggers a memory of a song or an artist or a movie or something that takes you back there. As you mature and have disposable income, you want to hold onto that beautiful memory, and you’ll try to buy something that represents that era.”
Most serious denim collectors are driven by more than mere nostalgia. For Eaton— who has been collecting since 1997 and has what he describes as the “most diverse collection of 1800s denim on the planet,” not to mention 12 warehouses full of vintage items that he sells—a fascination with denim construction paired with the thrill of the hunt fuels his obsession.
“I was really intrigued by the different levels and shades of the indigo color and then the details of the old jeans,” he said. “Then I started doing a lot of mine exploring and realized it’s almost impossible to find clothing in mines, so when you do, you want to keep it all because you’ll never find it again.”
As Eaton amassed more pieces, he began selling off jeans that weren’t as personally valuable to his collection. He started, like many, selling via eBay auctions, and in 2022 he founded the Durango Vintage Festivus in Durango, Colorado. The event features highstakes auctions such as the $100,000 Levi’s in 2023 and a $76,000 pair in 2022 that dates to 1890. The Durango Vintage Festivus also included a bulk sale with a 10,000-pound pile of vintage jeans that attendees paid to dig through and buy as much as they wanted in a 10-minute period.
But what separates a $100,000 pair from bulk-pile items? Eaton says several factors help determine the value of vintage jeans. Age and brand usually play a role, with older pairs and Levi’s fetching higher prices, and condition also can impact value.
“So an 1890 pair of Levi’s has, let’s say a $50,000 to $100,000 market value, and a 1920s pair of Levi’s has maybe half that, a $25,000 to $50,000 market value. Then you work down from there,” he said. “So if it’s only half a pair, maybe it’s worth a fifth as much, and if it’s not a Levi’s item, then maybe it’s worth a fifth as much. But there is no real general rule to any of it—it’s just what someone’s willing to pay.”
The Kurt Cobain jeans sold by Julien’s stand as a prime example. Valued by the auction house at $10,000 to $20,000, the jeans soared to a whopping $412,750 with 39 bids in a matter of minutes. Nolan said the connection people feel to the people who wore
THERE’S NO REAL GENERAL RULE TO ANY OF IT—IT’S JUST WHAT SOMEONE’S WILLING TO PAY.”
▲ Kurt Cobain’s jeans fetched more than $400,000 at auction.
► A highlight in Levi’s Archive, this pair of Lot 201 jeans are typical of the style worn by miners in the early 20th century.
Brit Eaton, Durango Vintage Festivus
these garments—be they iconic rock stars or miners who discarded their uniform in a mineshaft—will continue to drive demand for jeans at auction for years to come.
“We see them as an asset class because we know that people relate to these items,” he said. “There’s a connection, and when you connect people to something, that impacts value no matter what it is. You can own a pair of jeans, and it still tells the story of the wearer. That’s what we are selling—it’s the story because the item itself is just the conduit. It’s the tangible asset. What you’re really buying here is the story.” ■
Denim collectors are scooping up rare jeans at auction. by Jennifer Bringle
RUNWAY REPORT
with spring/summer 2025 on the horizon, the denim industry is poised for a vibrant resurgence, embracing an array of fit, wash and fashion trends. From New York’s catwalks to the runways of Paris, double denim and head-to-toe denim looks have emerged as a dominant force, showcasing a dynamic interplay of textures, colors, and styles. Designers are reimagining this timeless fabric, blending traditional silhouettes with fresh ideas.→At New York Fashion Week, indigo denim took center stage, with iconic pieces like Trucker jackets and wide-leg jeans making a statement. Meanwhile, London’s collections juxtaposed decadence with subversive designs, featuring everything from crystal-embellished jeans to avant-garde interpretations that nod to vintage aesthetics. Milan followed suit with a blend of skinny cuts and destroyed finishes, while Paris encapsulated glamour with shimmering embellishments and relaxed fits.→ From dark washes and romantic influences to eyecatching dye effects and statement coordinates, here’s a deep dive into the trends that will shape S/S ’25 denim.
The Spring/Summer 2025 a denim landscape is both familiar and refreshingly new. by Angela Velasquez
KOBI HALPERIN
FASHION
NEW YORK
Amongst the sheer fabrics, fringe and warm earthen hues seen at New York Fashion Week, there was an abundance of total denim looks—particular indigo denim.
Coach’s ode to New York City included tried-and-true Trucker jackets, vests and straight jeans. Laser printed florals updated Cinq à Sept’s denim jacket/jean combo. Cara Cara showed a sophisticated set of a denim vest and pleated trouser jeans.
Designers left their mark on wide-cut denim tops and tunics. Cinq à Sept’s puffed sleeve tunic top and flare jeans had a ’70s vibe. Ulla Johnson styled an oversize denim pocket tee with a white table cloth skirt. Rachel Comey paired wide-leg jeans with a belted V-neck denim tunic and a roomy long-sleeve top.
Ombre denim hit the runway. Kobi Halperin applied the wash effect to a threepiece denim suit with frayed hems. Monse showed baggy jeans with a white to dark blue gradient. The high-contrast jeans were presented alongside jeans with a builtin corset and wide-leg jeans covered in silver nail heads.
Slouchy wide-leg jeans anchored several of the nautical-inspired looks in Tommy Hilfiger’s collection. Sandy Liang and Tibi also paired the relaxed bottoms with simple tops. Cropped culotte jeans by Nanushka and Rachel Comey provided a summer alternative to full-length styles.
Designers took denim into evening looks as well. A twotone indigo gown and belted minidress by LaQuan Smith were standouts. Michael Kors showed a circle skirt decorated with 3-D flowers. Aknvas amplified the floral motif with rosettes on a mini corset dress. While most designers leaned toward light and medium washes, there were moments of dark denim. Cinq à Sept showed a dark denim pleated mini dress as well as a dark denim jacket and top mixed with navy tweed. Yigal Azrouel and Zero + Maria Cornejo also showed dark rinse denim coordinates. Off-White showed jeans with a shredded jeans with a green weft.
LAQUAN
LONDON
Designers presenting at London Fashion Week manipulated denim into new and exciting styles for Spring/Summer 2025. The statement pieces were a sharp contrast to the clean washes and double denim looks seen the week prior in New York.
Decadence was a common theme in several collections that showed generous amounts of embellishments, textures and accessories.
In a collection that combined tulle, chiffon, silk and denim
Simone Rocha leaned into her gothic ballerina aesthetic with embellished denim pieces.
Baggy selvedge jeans were deeply cuffed, and pockets were trimmed with white crystals. The crystal motif was repeated on a workwear denim jacket (paired with cuffed denim shorts) and a fitted jacket styled with a black tutu.
Baroque influences were seen throughout Marques'Almeida’s range of indigo and overdyed denim.
The brand’s key jean fit for the season, the slouchy M’A boyfriend jean made with cotton and pre-consumer recycled cotton, were overdyed in beige and lilac. The jeans coordinated with pieces like a cinched jean jacket and frayed peplum denim tank.
Chopova Lowena combined its signature folklore aesthetic with dark wash denim and details that nod to the American West. Silver nail heads were used to create floral vines up the legs of cargo jeans. Rounded silver studs were used to create flowers along the hem of a skirt styled over jeans.
Other designers chose a gritter vibe for their denim assortments. A master manipulator of denim, Masha Popova showed jeans with hip cutouts, low-rise capri pants and baggy jeans with her signature grunge finishes. Denim was faded, creased, speckled, bleached and overdyed in muddy colors.
Natasha Zinko explored the subversive side of denim as well with micro skirts and ultra-lowrise jeans.
KNWLS gave Y2K-inspired low-rise jeans a sleeker looks by eliminating buttons and traditional waistbands. The tinted indigo fabrics and use of seam details gave the jeans a moto vibe.
SIMONE ROCHA
MASHA POPOVA
NATASHA ZINKO
MARQUES' ALMEIDA
MASHA POPOVA
FASHION
MILAN
From skinny jeans and laser prints to vintage washes and clean finishes, designers presented a taste of everything denim offers in Milan. Collections showed a variety of jean fits as well as denim dresses, tops and outerwear to complete a headto-toe look.
MM6 Maison Margiela showed denim that was equal parts Y2K and indie sleaze. Skinny jeans were shredded down to threads and cracked white coatings gave denim pieces a dystopian look and feel. Western snap-up shirts were cut into vests and relaxed jeans featured tonal patchwork, dirty tints and rips.
For Diesel’s collection creative director Glenn Martens focused on elevating denim. “Denim micro shorts are embroidered with extralong fringing, a length that would be impossible from regular distressing. A leather double breasted jacket is treated to look like denim, worn with distressed denim jeans with tufted front seams and embroidered fringing across the ankle. That same fringing finishes a little denim chambray slip dress, as well as embroidered fringe across the legs of denim jeans,” the brand described.
Antonio Marras combined denim motifs with checks, florals and animal prints to create a vintage and collected aesthetic. Ermanno Scervino applied denim prints on outerwear and lace coordinates. Frayed pinstripes added texture to Ferrari light wash jeans, dresses, skirts, jackets and bra tops. Marco Rambaldi laser printed florals across denim trenches, dresses, shirts and more.
There were several moments of denim with ’70s medium to dark washes. Fiorucci showed the true-blue wash on overalls and a duster coat. Etro amplified the retro look with low-rise flare jeans and slim Bermuda shorts. The rich indigo color popped against Bally and MSGM’s use of red. Loose and wide-leg jeans continued to trend. The bottoms balanced Gucci’s floorsweeping coats and grounded Versace’s clashing prints. Wide-leg jeans were also a canvas for Vivetta’s floral embroidery.
FERRARI
VERSACE
VALENTINO
ROBERTO CAVALLI
DIESEL
Denim was woven seamlessly into collections at Paris Fashion Week.
Though Y2K trends are waning, designers still had fun with bling. Glittery feather motifs, beaded fringe and clusters of crystals decorated Chanel’s black and indigo denim. The fashion house also replicated its iconic quilting pattern with sequins.
Dice Kayek also embellished jeans with floral rhinestones—a sharp contrast to the raw black denim dress, peplum skirt and cropped jacket that are also part of the collection.
Inspired by Tinseltown, Casablanca covered jeans and denim shirts with light blue crystals. Multicolor star motifs sparkled against the brand’s jeans with ombre washes.
Ombre washes were part of Bureau de Stil’s collection as well. The collection included jeans and shorts with trendy double waistbands, a convertible trench coat, laceup skinny jeans, a maxi skirt and wide-leg jeans.
Wide-leg drawstring jeans and pleated denim trousers were part of Gabriela Hearst’s boho collection.
Voluminous jeans with rip and repair details balanced Ann Demeulemeester’s extralong romantic shirts. Stella McCartney styled loose jeans with oversized tops.
Lutz Huelle showed jeans with cloudy acid washes. The effect was seen in Ganni’s collection of denim jackets with pinched waists and full round skirts. The Copenhagen brand also showed jeans with a tie-dye effect.
Acne Studios cleaned up its approach to denim compared to previous seasons. The Scandi brand relied on light and medium indigo washes to help tell a sculptural story. Jeans had inflated silhouettes, padded curves and high-low washes that emphasized the width of the legs.
Lower rises were prominent in Paris. Jean shorts were worn low in Zimmermann’s coastal collection. The shingrazing cargo shorts were cinched with matching D-ring belts. Duran Lantink showed a deconstructed low-rise miniskirt. Splashes of pastel pink add a sense of lightness to South Korean designer Kimhekim’s low-rise, wide-leg jeans.
PARIS TRENDS
EMBELLISHMENTS
CRYSTALS
LOW RISES
RICK OWENS
ACNE STUDIOS
VETEMENTS
BALENCIAGA
BIG DENIM MOMENTS
From music’s biggest talents transforming western denim into a stylish statement to farmers, F1 drivers and Olympians setting the stage for new
MOMENTS OF 2024
trends, 2024 was packed with unforgettable denim moments.
WILD WEST
the west won fashion in 2024. From vice president Kamala Harris’ boot-cut jeans to Pharrell Williams envisioning Frenchborn Louis Vuitton through an Americana lens to Wrangler and Levi’s teaming up with two leading ladies in the music business— Lainey Wilson and Beyoncé—the Western aesthetic lassoed consumers from all angles this year. ��Though Western was trending up before Paris Men’s Fashion Week in January, Susie Draffan, WGSN’s senior denim strategist, said Pharrell Williams’ Fall/Winter 24-25 show for Louis Vuitton Men’s had a huge impact in driving the Western trend and highlighted the necessity of including more inclusive perspectives on the subject.
“You could see the Western influence play out in collections from Willy Chavarria’s critically lauded F/W 24-25 show to Private Policy’s subversive utility Western wear.
Stella McCartney and Acne Studios offered up chaps style jeans, while Ganni and Eytys experimented with raw denim edging as fringing on jackets, in a more subtle nod to the aesthetic,” she said.
Country music’s explosive popularity in and outside of the U.S. added fuel to the fire.
“It was the fastest-growing music genre in the U.K. and the third most popular genre of music in Australia in 2022,” she said, adding Lil Nas X, Orville Peck and Kacey Musgraves are driving the trend. “This year even saw the Stagecoach country music festival in Indio, Calif. rival Coachella for buzz and brand activations,” she said.
A first-time sponsor of Stagecoach, Kontoor Brands-owned Wrangler called on festival goers to wear head-to-toe denim on one of the days of the three-day festival.” Wrangler has dug its boots even deeper into the country music scene through its multi-year partnership with Grammy Award-winning country music
▲ Wrangler's collection with Lainey Wilson spanned women's and children's denim.
◄ Levi's teamed with Beyonce for "Reiimagine," a campaign highlighting the brand's iconic styles.
star Lainey Willson. In September, the brand launched a women’s and children’s collection designed hand-in-hand with Wilson.
“Like the lyrics of my songs, these clothes tell my story, with a little bit of grit and a little bit of grace,” Wilson said. “I think my fans will instantly recognize my personality woven throughout the collection. It’s such a special way to be connected to the people who bring me joy and strength. And when girls and women step into these Wranglers, I want them to feel powerful, like they can do anything they set their minds to. Wrangler has always been a part of my life’s story, and I want my fans who wear these clothes to find their story within mine.”
While Western cycles in and out of style, the trend hit hard in 2024 with cultural curators behind it. “Celebrities were the key driver of the Western trend, and concerts become a hot topic of dressing this year,” said Kendall Becker, Trendalytics fashion and beauty director. “Cult-followed artists like Taylor Swift and Beyoncé had fans essentially curating ‘costumes’ dedicated to their aesthetic or album when getting
CELEBRITIES WERE THE KEY DRIVER OF THE WESTERN TREND AND CONCERTS BECAME A HOT TOPIC OF DRESSING THIS YEAR.” Kendall Becker, Trendalytics
dressed for their concerts—and Westerninfluenced denim was a core piece of the looks for attendees. Specifically, denim shorts and dresses saw the most love here with searches peaking for shorts in June and dresses in September.”
Beyoncé adhered to a strict western dress code following the release of her country album “Cowboy Carter,” amplifying the Western aesthetic and securing its grip on trendsetters. She wore everything from Versace’s cowboyinspired leather coordinates and Louis Vuitton denim chaps to flare jeans by Paige.
Levi’s received the biggest lift, however. The impact of Beyoncé single “Levii’s Jeans” led to a 19.9 percent increase in visits to Levi’s brick-and-mortar stores, according to Pass_by, an AI-powered geospatial insights company, and to a global campaign featuring the 32-time Grammy Award-winning artist.
Called “Reiimagine,” the commercial inspired by the 1985 Levi’s campaign, “Launderette,” features Beyoncé stripped down to her underwear to wash her Levi’s jeans.
Shortly after the album dropped in April, Levi’s chief executive officer Michelle Gass told Wall Street analysts: “We continue to drive brand heat and impactful storytelling
◄ The F/W 24-25 Louis Vuitton Men's collection presented a fresh take on rodeo fashion.
▼ Edwin dropped a Western-inspired collection and campaign this summer.
by showing up at the center of culture across music, art and design, fashion and sports. We were thrilled and honored to have Beyoncé name a song after us on her newest album. And as an example of our agility, we responded to the speed of culture, not only demonstrating our understanding of engaging social communities in an authentic way, but also generating more than 3 billion impressions and a ton of buzz for the brand that remains today.”
Western also provided brands and consumers respite from the youth-driven Y2K trends that pervaded denim fashion for several years. Brands honed their stories about timeless and durable design and how it connects to their legacies.
In May, 7 For All Mankind teamed with model, horse trainer and equestrian stunt performer Mia Rae for a campaign that highlights its Bootcut jean and Dojo jean—a trouser jean with a wide leg and subtle flare. The campaign was an example of how 7 For All Mankind says it remains “dedicated to our built-in core audience of horse-riding denimlovers that have been with us since day one.”
Heajun Park, 7 For All Mankind’s global head of design, womenswear, credited Western’s versatile appeal to its popularity. “It can be rugged and sophisticated at the same time, and the fusion of traditional western motifs with contemporary designs are always great source of inspiration for designers, offering something both classic and modern,” she said. “It also speaks to consumers that are looking for unique ways to express themselves by giving them fashion forward items that still feel familiar and classic.”
Brands are banking on Western to stick around. “Western is not a trend. Western is really a way just like activewear, readyto-wear and outdoor. It’s a choice and I think it’s all about how it makes consumers feel,” said Vivian Rivetti, Wrangler global VP design, earlier this year at Rivet’s event at SXSW in Austin, Texas. “If you think about the presence of a cowboy or cowgirl, there’s a sense of pride. There’s a sense of competence. The way they stand, the way they tip their hat…it is about exuding confidence. And I don’t think there’s anything more attractive than someone who is confident.”
street style was a literal catwalk this summer with brands and retailers from all tiers offering leopard print denim, and consumers of all ages eating it up.
While animal prints have long held a neutral status in categories like footwear and accessories, a fresh wave of Scandi-cool brands and luxury Italian labels has brought leopard denim into the spotlight, elevating its status in the fashion hierarchy.
“The data surrounding ‘leopard jeans’ is impressive––the style is seeing a 1,539 percent increase in average weekly searches in comparison to last year and a 3,300 percent increase in social buzz (engagements and
posts across platforms) to last year, too,” said Kendall Becker, Trendalytics fashion and beauty director. “The market is reacting accordingly as we’ve seen a 144 percent increase in products that file under this trend.”
Becker pointed out that the trend began gaining traction in early 2024, fueled by the popularity of a particular Ganni pair that went viral online. “Since then, the trend has continued to be adapted in more mass and fast-fashion markets that had led to an increase in posts on TikTok as more and more users have access to the trend and can create content around it,” she said. “Currently, ‘leopard jeans’
CAT LADIES
has acquired 43 million views on TikTok and hit its peak in September when fall receipts hit the stores.”
Susie Draffan, WGSN’s senior denim strategist, explained that leopard print exploded this year, partly due to the viral ‘mob wife’ aesthetic linked to the 25th anniversary of “The Sopranos.” This moment resonated globally, especially in the Asia-Pacific region, where the 1990s-inspired series “Blossoms Shanghai” featured characters wearing leopard prints.
While millennials experienced leopard denim in the form of indie sleaze skinny jeans in the early 2000s Gen Z is taking the
1.
4. Mango
5. Wrangler jeans
trend into a new direction with loose, slouchier fits. Draffan said the trend feeds into Gen Z’s appetite for ’90s fashion. “Think of 20-something Kate Moss and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy pictured in leopard print coats,” she described.
Draffan added that these pop culture influences were backed up by pre-Fall 2024 catwalks with designers including AZ Factory, Blumarine, Moschino, Ermanno Scervino, and Max Mara showcasing “true, super glam” leopard print. Dries Van Noten, Isabel Marant and Versace continued the theme with leopard print jeans in their Fall/Winter 2425 collections.
REUSE, REDUCE, RUNWAY
diesel laid out its sustainable mission for everyone to see at Milan Fashion Week in September.
The brand brought its Spring/ Summer 2025 collection to life on a runway created from 14,800 kg
of denim scraps. Models strutted through the thick pile of the scraps, which the brand said would be reused for insulation.
“There is beauty in waste, in what is distressed and destroyed. It’s in
the circularity of denim waste, and into the distressing that we build into the collection,” said Glenn Martens, Diesel creative director. “This is the disruption of Diesel: we are pushing for circularity in our production as hard as
we push the elevation of design.”
The immersive experience helped highlight Diesel’s commitment to sustainability, including Rehab Denim, a line of garments made with 100 percent recycled cotton.
CIRCULOSE
Just weeks after Renewcell announced it expanded its Circulose Supplier Network supplier network to 116 companies, the Swedish textile recycler announced a strategic review and plans to secure new funding to address its challenging financial situation. By February, the Stockholmbased company filed for bankruptcy. After months of uncertainty, Altor, a private equity firm in Stockholm, acquired Renewcell’s remaining assets in June. This sale included a commercialscale plant in Sundsvall and the technology behind its flagship product, Circulose dissolving pulp. The company was subsequently renamed Circulose.
THE LYCRA COMPANY
The Lycra Company unveiled FitSense, a combination of a new yarn and garment processing technology that allows brands to customize jeans with targeted compression shaping in certain areas such as the stomach, thighs, butt, legs and waist.
The patented technology is a dual-core structure that wraps Lycra fiber with temperatureresponsive fiber. After garment making and dry and wet processing, manufacturers apply silicone pads to targeted zones on the garment and use a heat press to activate or lock-in shaping power in the desired areas. Activated areas will have lower growth due to the memory set. The technology achieves this holding effect without sacrificing comfort or changing the authentic look and feel of denim.
KINGPINS SHOW
Kingpins Show celebrated the 20th anniversary of its New York event in June and the 10th anniversary of its Amsterdam event in October. Both events celebrated the milestone with opening-night parties and popup fashion shows featuring denim designs by several show exhibitors. “Kingpins is not just a trade show, we are also a community,” said Vivian Wang, Kingpin managing director and global sales manager. “Over the course of two days, the denim industry gathers at Kingpins to conduct business; learn about new products and practices; connect with old friends and make new ones; to share and exchange ideas; and to get inspired and inspire others. We are committed to continue to build this community around the world and to study and share best practices for our industry.”
▲ Lycra partnered with its top mill partners to launch FitSense.
VICTORY LAP
in october , Formula 1 announced LVMH Group will become a global partner of the sport in 2025. The 10-year deal will include several of LVMH’s iconic brands including Louis Vuitton, Moët Hennessy and TAG Heuer. At the time of the announcement, Stefano Domenicali, president and CEO of Formula 1, said “the strength and breadth of LVMH makes it the perfect partner” for the sport as it continues its “global growth, attracting new and more diverse audiences.”�� F1’s partnership LVMH is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to fashion’s fixation with racing, however. The sport, which will celebrate its 75th anniversary in 2025, and its teams have been gaining speed with men’s and women’s denim-centric fashion brands, particularly ones with millennial and Gen Z fanbases.
Social posts for F1 in general are up 15 percent to last year, said Kendall Becker, Trendalytics fashion and beauty director. Products in the market that mention F1 within their descriptions have increased 149 percent compared to last year, she added.
In February, Abercrombie dropped a second collection of licensed graphic apparel collection with the award-winning F1 team, McLaren. The partnership served as an “organic evolution” to Abercrombie’s first collection with the British team, which bowed in 2023. The collaboration went viral with Gen Z consumers on TikTok. Abercrombie marked the second drop by displaying McLaren’s F1 car inside its New York City flagship on Fifth Avenue.
Levi’s followed up with its own collection with McLaren. The first drop launched in June spanned jeans, jackets, jumpsuits and tees inspired by the spirit of the F1 team’s past eras. In October, the denim giant released a second capsule focused on modern styles like the Baggy Dad loose fit and a Track Trucker, a jacket with contrasting panels and “McLaren Racing” embroidery on the front left chest.
Hugo announced its partnership with Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team (VCARB) in February, ahead of the start of the 2024 F1 season. As the team’s “Official Apparel Partner,” the Hugo logo is featured on the race suit, teamwear and the VCARB Team’s cars. The sartorial-themed livery was revealed at the Singapore Grand Prix in September and features a denim design including distressed markings and leather-looking patches.
Tommy Hilfiger also became an “Official Partner” of F1 Academy this year, designing Spanish driver Nerea Marti’s racing suit. The team also rode a Tommy Hilfiger-branded car. The partnership built on the PVH Corp.owned heritage brand previous collaborations with racing legend Lewis Hamilton and its own legacy racing-inspired collections and for hosting fashion shows inspired by the track.
“Racing, car culture and Formula 1 in particular have surged in popularity in recent years with our consumer,” said Richard Cox, Pacsun’s chief merchandising officer.
The Gen Z-centric brand launched a F1 collection in August that drew inspiration from the Britain Grand Prix, Hungarian Grand Prix, and Belgium Grand Prix. The collection spanned graphic tees, parachute pants, a faux leather moto jacket to sweatshirts, sweatpants and shorts.
The connection between racing and denim extends beyond F1. Wrangler, which has sponsored several Nascar teams and drivers including Dale Earnhardt, tapped into car culture and nostalgia when it released collection with Mattel’s Hot Wheels in August.
The collection spanned denim, jackets, coveralls and graphic tees in coordinating youth and adult styles, Patches of a bucking horse celebrate the brand’s Western roots and Hot Wheels horsepower. Tops combined Hot Wheels’ flame logo with racing flags, tires and other automobile motifs. The collab also featured a limited-edition Wrangler branded miniature diecast ’85 Ford Bronco, adding a sought after collectable component to the youth driven capsule.
The retailer bowed an expanded collection in October when activated at F1 US Grand Prix in Austin, Texas (COTA) for a consecutive year. There, Pacsun dropped new styles and silhouettes inspired by motorsport culture for men, women and kids, including jeans, vests, trucker hats, along with T-shirts, hoodies, crewnecks and jackets. Additionally, fans were treated to a photo moment and tote bag at the activation.
Cox pointed out how the U.S. based races like Austin, Miami and Las Vegas along with cultural moments like the Netflix series “Drive to Survive” and brand partnerships such as Pacsun’s with F1 have helped make the sport “more accessible to the younger consumer, provide more connection to the teams and drivers on the circuit, and make them interested in being a part of the community.”
“I think there’s also a competitive and aspirational quality to the entire ecosystem of the sport that is really resonating,” he added. There are synergies between denim culture and car culture as well. “Durability, utility and function are common threads that are important to both good quality denim and peak performance in racing,” Cox said. “So, I think the two are actually a good match when considering fashion collaborations. There’s opportunity for storytelling through product that doesn’t feel forced.”
THERE'S OPPORTUNITY FOR STORYTELLING THROUGH PRODUCT THAT DOESN'T FEEL FORCED.”
“From rodeo to Nascar, Wrangler has long ties to adrenaline-filled sports and the idea of ‘horsepower.’ There is such rich iconography in the racing and rodeo worlds that are authentic to the Wrangler brand and bring a fresh, bold look to this collection,” said John Meagher, Wrangler’s VP of global marketing.
Meagher said the collection has been received incredibly well, with “some of the pinnacle pieces being the best sellers.” Case in point: the blue and yellow racing suit inspired coverall in the collection was Wrangler’s fastest seller in the U.S. and sold out in Europe. The collection’s reversible bomber jacket was worn by Grammy-winning country artist Lainey Wilson to the F1 US Grand Prix in Austin, Texas.
He added, “the iconography, the nostalgia, the adrenaline; and how brands are reinterpreting all of this inbold, graphic and streetwear inspired fashion,” is what’s capturing the attention of younger generations.
▲ Pacsun hosted an activation at the F1 US Grand Prix in Austin Texas in Ocrober.
John Meagher, Wrangler
STAR-STUDDED FASHION
denim made a striking impact on red-carpet fashion in 2024.
Designers like Schiaparelli, Alaïa, Valentino and Jean Paul Gaultier have helped elevate denim in their runway and couture collections combining the democratic fabric with their sophisticated silhouettes and constructions, said Susie Draffan, WGSN’s senior denim strategist.
Simultaneously, brands with roots in blue jeans are stepping out of their comfort zones. A master in material manipulation, Diesel creative director Glenn Martens dressed pop star Kylie Minogue for the Italian brand’s Met Gala debut in May. The dress was made
of denim rib knit, which has been burned out with Diesel’s signature devoré technique “as if Kylie has been sleeping for hundreds of years and the dress has artfully decayed, dissolving on her body,” the brand stated. The dress was covered in 500,000 crystals and required 14 days of work to complete.
Zac Posen, executive VP and creative director of Gap Inc. and Old Navy chief creative officer, dressed actor Da’Vine Joy Randolph in a one-of-a-kind, custom denim gown by Gap for the Met Gala. Drawing inspiration from themes of romanticism, nature and historic icons, Posen
draped and constructed a gown that pays homage to Gap’s classic 1969 denim, while incorporating elements reminiscent of historic evening wear from the 1700s.
Posen also created a custom denim dress for Coco Rocha for the Fashion Group International 40th Anniversary Event in New York. Made from repurposed denim jackets, the gown was something entirely one of a kind. “I chose this for her, because I loved the idea of taking something utilitarian and turning it into couture. Cut and shaped for all of Coco’s moves on the carpet,” Posen said.
Denim’s new role on the red carpet plays into the wider
▼
Da'Vine Joy Randolph in a custom gown made with Gap denim.
denim-on-denim or double denim dressing trend, Draffan said. “Which is in part driven by noughties nostalgia but also by denim expanding beyond its typical categories of jeans and jackets to denim blazers, tops, dresses, trench coats, footwear, etc.,” she added.
“The concept of what denim can be has really been challenged in recent years, leading to denim being used for everything— including occasionwear—which dovetails with the noughties influence,” Draffan said. “Think of Britney and Justin and their infamous double denim red carpet looks from 2001.”
FARM TO FASHION
in 2024, farmers became the heroes of sustainability as regenerative agriculture transitioned from a buzzword to a proven reality. The global momentum behind regenerative practices gained undeniable traction, with regenerative farming increasingly recognized for its economic and environmental benefits. In July, the certification body Regenagri reported a dramatic surge in the adoption of its standards. The number of farms and supply chain operators joining the regenerative movement grew fivefold in 2023, with an additional 640 supply chain companies committing to the program.
Denim mills launched impactful initiatives aimed at transforming their sourcing practices. In April, Soorty unveiled the Soorty Regenagri Initiative (SRI), a project in partnership with the Rural Education and Economic Development Society (REEDS). SRI aims to rejuvenate agricultural ecosystems through regenerative farming techniques, producing cotton in a more sustainable and transparent manner. The initiative focuses on soil health, biodiversity conservation, reduced chemical use, and improved water management, all while ensuring full traceability throughout the supply chain.
A month later, AGI Denim, a vertically integrated denim manufacturer, announced its own regenerative agriculture initiative, the AGI Denim Regenerative Cotton Farm Project, in collaboration with REEDS. “We aim to reduce our environmental impact through a more localized supply chain that empowers the communities where we source our materials from,” said Hasan Javed, AGI Denim executive director. “By keeping things closer to home, we
are better set to create more opportunities for the people who help make our denim possible.”
Other denim producers also made significant strides in sustainable cotton sourcing. Turkish mill Maritaş Denim embraced regenerative farming practices to overhaul its cotton production, aiming to revitalize both its products and its reputation. Meanwhile, Brazilian mill Vichuna partnered with Scheffer, a leader in regenerative cotton production, to produce its first fabrics made from regenerative cotton. Scheffer’s cotton is grown in an irrigation-free, rain-fed system, dramatically reducing the water footprint of textile production.
In July, Calik Denim took to the global stage at the United Nations Fashion and Lifestyle Network’s annual meeting, sharing the steps it is taking to transform cotton farming into a more sustainable practice. With these efforts, the denim industry is increasingly aligning itself with regenerative agriculture, setting new standards for environmental responsibility and traceability.
▲ More brands and mills are supporting regenerative agriculture programs.
▼ Shalom Harlow in Citizens of Humanity's regenerative cotton denim.
Brands are throwing in their support for regenerative programs. Banana Republic, Eileen Fisher, Outland Denim and Outerknown and more introduced regenerative cotton products this year.
Citizens of Humanity partnered with farm consultancy Advancing Eco Agriculture to debut Integrity Grown, a data-driven standard for growing regenerative cotton. Through on-the-ground teams of agronomists and farm consultants, combined with field technology that measures progress and results, Integrity Grown aims to eliminate the guesswork in regenerative growing.
“The Integrity Grown standard creates a deeper level of transparency for consumers in the cotton growing practices of the regenerative farmers who are supplying us,” said Amy Williams, CEO of Citizens of Humanity Group. “We’ll now be able to more deeply understand the impact of our regenerative cotton supply, with the goal to improve one of the most chemical intensive and soil degrading systems of agriculture: growing cotton.”
WE'LL NOW BE ABLE TO MORE DEEPLY UNDERSTAND THE IMPACT OF OUR REGENERATIVE COTTON SUPPLY.”
Amy Williams, Citizens of Humanity
The Los Angeles-based brand has been working with 11 farms across the U.S. in addition to three in Turkey to procure about 5 million pounds of fiber over the past two years. It released its debut collection of jeans and denim staples made with regenerative cotton this spring.
DANCE OFF
gap found its rhythm in 2024 with music- and dancedriven campaigns featuring rising Gen Z stars.
For its spring linen collection, the brand enlisted Grammy Awardwinning artist Tyla, bringing a fresh, energetic vibe to the campaign
by recreating the music video for “Back On 74” by Jungle, with the 22-year-old South African “Water” singer at the center. In the fall, Gap teamed up with Australian singersongwriter and actor Troye Sivan for a campaign celebrating baggy, relaxed-fit jeans. The 30-second
spot features Sivan and the dance group CDK Company recreating the viral dance from his “Rush” music video, set to Thundercat’s track “Funny Thing.”
Both campaigns pay homage to Gap’s iconic ‘90s ads, like the 1998 “Khaki Swing” and 1999
▼ Troye Sivan and dancers brings Gap's loose jeans to life in a fall campaign.
“Everybody In Cords” campaigns, which featured a cast of models in neutral basics singing Donovan’s “Mellow Yellow.” Through these collaborations, Gap tapped into the cultural energy of today’s youth while nodding to the nostalgic spirit of its classic campaigns.
YEAR IN REVIEW
POSITIVELY PATRIOTIC
all eyes were on paris this summer—not just for the thrilling competitions at the 2024 Summer Olympics, but also to see what the world’s top athletes were wearing.
The opening ceremony for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris was the most watched since 2012, with 28.6 million viewers. Additionally, the games had an average of 30.6 million viewers across NBCUniversal’s platforms, which was an 82 percent increase from the 2020 Tokyo Olympics and the biggest viewership since 1994.
Ralph Lauren’s motorsportinspired denim looks for Team USA garnered a lot of that airtime. The brand reclaimed its role as an Official Outfitter of the U.S. Olympic and Paralympic Teams for the ninth time. The American heritage brand dressed the athletes for the event’s opening and closing ceremonies in single-breasted wool blazers, moto-style jackets and cotton jeans manufactured by B Corp Saitex.
For the opening ceremony, Ralph Lauren stuck to classic indigo for the women’s curved tapered jeans and men’s active tapered jeans. The styles got a moto makeover in white for the closing ceremony.
Back home, brands and retailers captured the competitive mood with Team USA apparel and accessories. Pacsun dropped an expansive collection of Olympic gear in June. Gap’s line of Team USA polo shirts, rugby shirts, anoraks, tees and hoodies tapped into demand for vintage-inspired fashion and Old Navy—famous for American flag T-shirts—got into the spirit with a range of IOC Heritage Olympic tops for men, women and children.
Krista Corrigan, a retail analyst at EDITED, said retailers in the mass market capitalized on the hype surrounding the Olympics, with the volume of new in USAthemed apparel and accessories skyrocketing 196 percent yearover-year in the three months leading up to the games.
Expressions of patriotism lingered around as consumers’ attention shifted from the Olympics to the U.S. presidential election in the fall. At Kingpins Amsterdam, Shannon Reddy, Denim Dudes trend forecaster, said the theme will continue as young generations reclaim patriotic symbols in their everyday sportswear and basics.
“We’re really seeing a new breed of creatives subvert and commentary casualwear, and their work is dripping in symbolism and political commentary using fashion as a tool for positive change. So even though it may look dark esthetically, the end goal is positivity,” she said. ■
CIRCULAR CATALYST
Tricia Carey discusses life after Renewcell and Lenzing. by Jasmin Malik Chua
tricia carey is ready for her next act . After spending nearly 25 years touting Tencel and denim innovations at Lenzing, then embarking on a rockier sojourn with Renewcell, Carey isn’t scrambling for a change. The opportunity to take a breather is a novel one for the Kingpins and Première Vision fixture, who studied at New York’s famed Fashion Institute of Technology before kicking off her career as a merchandising coordinator at Duet Textiles. �� A position handling fabric R&D at Susan Bristol led to a merchandising management position at Courtaulds Fibers, which was later acquired by and absorbed into Lenzing. It was while managing the accounts of high-roller brands like Abercrombie & Fitch, Gap Inc., Levi Strauss & Co., Target and Victoria’s Secret at the Austrian fiber giant that Carey became interested in the then-burgeoning concept of circularity. �� Since then, she’s become one of sustainability’s most stalwart champions and— despite not wearing a lot of jeans growing up because she had to pay for the privilege during dress-down day at Catholic school—among denim’s biggest cheerleaders. In this lightly edited interview, we spoke with Carey about whether she still bleeds blue, her biggest lessons from Renewcell’s collapse and why the White House should appoint her its “fashion czar.”
Rivet: You stepped away from the denim frontlines while you were working on textile-to-textile recycling at Renewcell. Do you still consider yourself a denim head?
Tricia Carey: I always gravitate back to the denim market and I get a lot of energy from the denim market for sure. I mean, in the spring, I went to Kingpins on my vacation, and I’m doing it again because it’s such a network of industry friends, and I feel like they’ve always got my back. Some of it’s about the product and some of it’s about the community that comes together. I think that’s truly what makes the denim industry different from other areas. I have a lens across all the different segments of the industry, whether it’s ready-to-wear, home, intimate apparel. But with denim…it feels like going back to family.
Rivet: How much has the denim sector changed since you started getting involved, especially when it comes to sustainability? There was a time—and not so long ago—when denim production was practically synonymous with toxic chemicals and water usage
TC: I think the industry kind of woke up to that around 2010. Over the past 10 to 15 years, the industry has been putting the impacts of denim—from the raw materials that are being used, like cotton, to finishing— under great scrutiny. One of the best, most impactful developments that has really changed the denim industry has been laser and ozone—that definitely has reduced, when you look at the amount of chemicals being used, the impact on workers, as well as increased the variety of different designs that designers can create.
When you look at some of the design capabilities that can be done now, anything can be done electronically. Even with laser and ozone, a lot of the software associated with it can help designers create in much better ways with less sampling. There’s also more understanding around cotton and creating proper certifications, as well as information sharing around raw materials that didn’t exist before. And indigo application, I think, is an area that will continue to have more development over the next three to five years.
Rivet: Are there any developments you’d still like to see happen or are on the cusp of happening but the industry isn’t quite there yet?
TC: Going back to some of the work that the Transformers Foundation is doing—I’m part of the founders’ group and I’m on the steering committee—some of it is around having the right language that everyone understands. It sounds so basic and simple, but there are misunderstandings because of language and a lack of a common understanding. I’d like to see more of a balance between brands and suppliers in how that true partnership is developed. I’d like to see more of an ingredient label on how jeans are being made, not just from a fiber content perspective, but the finishing of it so consumers can see how spinning is done, how denim is woven, how indigo is applied. I think that will give them a greater appreciation of the product. And this can tie into a digital product passport, right? I’d like to see less greenwashing overall. And this kind of goes back to the language part—
► Tricia Carey wears her favorite Tencel denim jacket designed by Carme Santacruz.
having proper words to describe what gets lost in translation around the world. And overall, since I’ve been working so much on circularity, how can there be true circularity and a hierarchy within that circularity? With denim, it’s a product that naturally is already being resold, and so how can we maximize that? How can we have the right business model to build that out? Levi’s has always had a high resale value. How can we continue that build more durable denim so that it can be resold?
Rivet: Let’s talk about Renewcell: its rise, bankruptcy and resurrection as a new company called Circulose. I know you get asked this a lot but what would you say have been your biggest learnings about how the industry approaches innovative new fibers and what needs to be done differently?
TC : I do get asked that a lot, and it truly was a great learning experience. And I would say that, overall, there’s a huge say-do gap that exists. I got to see inside pretty much all of those major U.S. and European brands to understand how they’re working, and I saw this difference between what a small company can do versus a global enterprise and the disparity that exists between the two sizes of companies.
I also learned a lot about managing expectations, and when expectations are too high, how difficult they can be to fulfill. I also learned about the role of multi-stakeholder initiatives in the industry transition, and they definitely play a huge role in getting everyone around the table. But everyone also has to be contributing when they’re around the table. Where the industry really needs more development around is building out some of these models and case studies that brands or suppliers can adopt. The complexities of our current system will not get us to where we need to be.
Rivet: What are your thoughts about where the industry went wrong in allowing such a mature and commercialscale platform like Renewcell to fail at such a critical time ?
TC: I think policy has been too slow to impact first movers in the market, for sure. I think everyone, on paper, can build out, “Oh this can work and that can work” but then the reality of that adoption—the trials that need to happen, the global logistics that have to fall into place— sets in. The runway needs to be much longer than what people are planning for.
▲ Carey coordinated several collaborations between mills and desigeners during her time at Lenzing.
I HAVE A LENS ACROSS ALL THE DIFFERENT SEGMENTS OF THE INDUSTRY, WHETHER IT’S READY-TO-WEAR, HOME, INTIMATE APPAREL. BUT WITH DENIM…IT FEELS LIKE GOING BACK TO FAMILY.”
And I even see this now in some of the current innovators and what they’re trying to put together. I mean, look at SB 707, [California’s Responsible Textile Recovery Act], that was passed. We still have another four or five years until that will be in effect. It’s just taking too long for policy. So where are the incentives? Companies are not thinking long-term at all because the model is built off quarterly sales, earnings and profits. And I don’t think they have a clear understanding that their goals are interdependent on what other companies are doing; you can’t achieve your carbon reduction without digging into Scope 3, into your suppliers. So we’re very much in this gridlock right now to get things moving.
Rivet: So you declined to join Circulose. What have you been up to? And where do you hope to end up?
TC : I was off during the summer; I wanted to have some space to think about what my next moves are. I want to continue to stay in the industry, to really drive into that change work with a great group of people. And so I’m still figuring that out very much right now. When this all first happened, my husband gave me very good advice: make a to-do list of all those things I’ve been wanting to do that I didn’t have the time to do. So I’ve been going through a bit of that, like visiting the Tenement Museum and taking some time to reassess what’s going on and where my best place to add value to the industry. It’s also been great to have time to catch up with people. I’ve met wonderful people in the industry and they’ve been very supportive, whether it’s the innovator community or those within the supply chain that I’ve worked with for years. I’ve taken some time to kind of level up on some industry knowledge that I’ve been wanting to understand more. I went to Munich for the Cascale conference and took the time to sit and listen to the panels rather than being involved in five things at once. So that part I’m really enjoying. I also wanted to learn more about AI, so I’ve been doing some online courses with that.
Rivet: Is there an ideal job for you?
TC: If the president of the United States needed someone for fashion and apparel, that would be really interesting, if they had the right agenda. Like what happened to the fashion czar idea? I mean the de minimis issue wouldn’t have been going on so long if we had a fashion czar.
Rivet: O.K. we’ll pitch that: Tricia Carey for fashion czar. Where do you see the denim industry in five or 10 years considering the legislation coming down the pike and increasing consumer awareness about the impact of their purchases?
TC: Is the average consumer really aware of the impact of their purchases? I think there’s a lot that needs to be done in consumer education. But the next generations are becoming more aware, are very curious and are asking questions.
I think with extended producer responsibility coming on and perhaps in five years, when it’s monitored in force, we’re going to see more of that digital product passport coming into play. I think it will still take some time for circularity to truly get into the wheels but everything will have to be designed with circularity in mind. I think the denim industry has these opportunities for new business models around resale, which it’s been starting to explore. But there’s got to be also the technology behind bringing resale to market in a bigger way for denim.
I think that we’ll see shifts in customization for denim—and I don’t mean custom in that you have a different colored thread or whatever but truly having the right size and fit and having the right wash. We’ve always had that, but it’s been out of reach for most, but that’s the beauty of the technology that’s been developed around laser. We’ll also continue to see the integration of new fibers within the denim industry.
I think the denim industry is so unique in bringing circularity and fiber innovation into play because, one, there’s already a community together, which you don’t have in other industries, and you have more vertical supply chains: spinners, dyers, weavers and garment makers under one roof. You have many areas that you can impact in the product to change, and you have this technology that’s been built on over the years.
So in the next five to 10 years, the denim industry is well poised. However, there needs to be that demand coming from the brands and their willingness to step out of the way we’ve been doing things and the price point at which things were being done. I remember in 2000, when I bought my first pair of jeans, that was over $100. What’s happened since then that prices have just gotten lower and lower and lower? Where can we set a new level playing field so that there is room for innovation to happen in the next five to 10 years?
Rivet: Is this race to the bottom one of the big pain points for the industry?
TC: I think one of the biggest challenges in that race to the bottom is the suppliers must stand up, and they have to unify. There was an excellent presentation at the Cascale conference in Munich with Miran Ali [from the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association], where he said, “No more compromises.” We just kept compromising season after season, order after order, and that has, in part, led to the complete demise that they saw in the Bangladesh market. Those compromises will just continue to erode the market.
This is a part of Transformers: to sure that suppliers have a voice in the market and that there’s a way to level that playing field from a point of education, whether it’s by educating at a student level or by providing a thought leadership platform. We can’t get further if we don’t start thinking differently. ■
AI has found its way into many aspects of the fashion industry—what makes generative AI for design difficult to conquer at scale?
FANTASTICAL
by
FANTASTICAL FASHION
Meghan Hall
G-Star introduced its first garment, a cape, designed by AI in 2023.
artificial intelligence has long been part of many industries including fashion, apparel and retail. When generative AI started making waves several years ago, it marked a turning point in what the technology could reasonably be tasked with doing, and threw a wrench into some companies’ future plans. �� Image-generation tools have started to become fixtures in the fashion and apparel communities for a variety of tasks, including designing new garments. But the instances of AI-aided collections being brought to the fore in denim have been few and far between.�� In 2023, G-Star Raw released its first AI-aided denim couture piece,a cape with sharp corners, intricate stitching and a fantastical shape. The cape was just one physical item produced from a broader, otherwise digital-only collection that featured a variety of images that displayed how generative AI can be used for design. �� Gwenda van Vliet, G-Star’s chief brand officer, said the collection—and particularly making a physical version of the AI-inspired cape—gave G-Star’s designers and employees a glimpse into the future, as well as a chance to learn more about generative AI’s influence. �� “We embrace everything that’s happening [with technology], but we also understand, OK, we need to make something with it, because otherwise it’s just out there and it doesn’t do anything. And to change the industry, we always want to make sure that we can create something out of it—something real,” she explained.
Meanwhile, global denim manufacturer Soorty released two AI-aided collections in its HumAIn series, which featured both digitalonly assets and physical garments.
It partnered with Volker Ketteniss, founder of ORNMNTNCRM, for the first HumAIn collection, and with Amy Leverton and Shannon Reddy of Denim Dudes for the second iteration. Like G-Star, the vertical manufacturer did not sell the physical garments that resulted from the AI collections.
In large part, the holdup over selling AIaided designs has to do with the intricacy of the stitching, pattern making and dyeing required to bring AI-imagined garments to life at scale. Eda Dikmen, senior marketing and communications manager for Soorty, said, for AI-aided collections to be produced with any real cadence, they would need to be far less ornate.
“We produce at scale, and these [pieces] require very detailed production, so you have to work very closely with the garment—not just the laundry, but the stitching,” Dikmen told Rivet. “Our ordinary days are very time focused, and everything has to be optimized…The [physical garments from the HumAIn] project really needed to take more time,” she said.
For some brands, experimenting further with AI for design or imagery may feel like a risk; earlier this year, dress brand Selkie faced serious consumer backlash for disclosing it had launched a Valentine’s Day collection with AI-designed art. And Levi’s has, in the past, taken heat for a short-lived decision to test AI-generated models for product imagery.
From a sustainability and cost standpoint, some of the risk associated with designs made in part with AI could be mitigated by producing garments after they have been purchased.
Resonance, a company which allows designers and brands to design their own garments for made-to-order production, uses AI to make production more efficient and sustainable, since items are only made when demand exists. Kerry Steib, head of brand and marketing for Resonance, said that helps brands ensure they create as little waste as possible.
“Leveraging AI systems will enable us to better identify opportunities for us to minimize waste…and then to enable brands using our platform to take advantage of that,” Steib explained.
Partnering with an on-demand manufacturer could mean garments wouldn’t need to be produced by the thousands, but it doesn’t yet solve for the fact that fantastical designs can be difficult to manufacture efficiently.
Ketteniss said manufacturing isn’t the only part of the process that can prove time consuming; designing with AI also takes
longer than meets the eye. For Soorty’s first HumAIn collection, he used Stable Diffusion, a more complex open-source generative AI model that allows users to tweak individual elements of a design in real time.
“With Midjourney, you can fairly easily make [images] that look pretty good, but they’re not so easy to control. You can get loads and loads and loads of images, but at some point, you want to control what you’re doing,” Ketteniss said. “Stable Diffusion…will give you other levels of control, so you’re not just exposed to whatever it gives you, but you can actually be much more specific.”
For its preliminary foray into AI design, G-Star used open-source model Midjourney, which is a bit less technical and can enable a more accessible experience for first-time AI users.
Having learned from its initial work with generative AI, G-Star has begun training Stable Diffusion on 25 years’ worth of its own collections. Nicolas Griffioen, new tech lead at G-Star, said the brand wanted a way to bring its identity to its newest AI-inspired creations, beyond relying on an open-source model alone.
“AI has a reference of what denim looks like, of what it could be, but [when] matching that to what G-Star thinks it should be, there was a gap,” he said.
Already, training that model—and teaching G-Star’s designers to use it—has yielded some fruitful results for the brand.
“The first AI designs are on the market, actually. We’re testing them now, and they are pretty successful, which is nice to see. It’s really a process, and we believe that step by step, [AI-aided designs] will become a bigger part of the collection, van Vliet said.
But van Vliet said the designers won’t soon be abandoning their own creative roots; they use a mix of technology-forward programs and traditional design methods, like sketching, making mood boards or otherwise, in the atelier.
The brand does not outwardly indicate that an item has been created with the help of AI, so van Vliet said she couldn’t say for sure whether AI’s influence in design directly impacts consumer purchasing decisions. However, she noted that because G-Star’s consumers tend to seek out pieces that stand out from others, the unique nature of the AI-inspired pieces has shone through, garnering sales.
Though Soorty hasn’t taken the same route as G-Star when it comes to scaling AI designs for production, Dikmen said it’s not out of the question that it could do so in the future. Currently, though, Soorty—like many other brands, retailers and manufacturers—has honed its focus on what the technology can do for its internal operations.
TO CHANGE THE INDUSTRY, WE ALWAYS WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT WE CAN CREATE SOMETHING OUT OF IT—SOMETHING REAL.”
Gwenda van Vliet, G-Star Raw
▲ G-Star is exploring the potential of AIin design as both a creative outlet and a way to reduce waste.
► Soorty partnered with Volker Ketteniss, founder of ORNMNTNCRM, to develop AI concepts.
Some brands and retailers—G-Star included—have also adopted more practical use cases for AI that come along with more immediate business benefits. Common generative AI-powered integrations include front-facing product imagery enhancement and upgrades to customer experience, though a slew of companies have leaned into the technology’s supply chain abilities more readily.
Ketteniss said design continues to be an area of interest for players throughout the denim industry, but the technology has not yet been refined enough to create meaningful, complete designs with AI.
“The projects that I’ve done, they’ve been a mix of things—a bit of Photoshop, and not pure AI. If you want to go further—beyond the point of, ‘Oh look, this is interesting,’ to the point of, ‘This is actually usable and it works,’ I think you’re probably still working with more than one tool,” Ketteniss explained. ■
OFF THE LOOM
japanese selvedge denim is celebrated by enthusiasts as the pinnacle of quality in the denim world. From Kuroki, Kurabo and Kaihara to Sanyo-Senko, Showa and Sakamoto, the fabrics from these manufacturers are praised for their quality, color and craftsmanship. At the same time, their selvedge IDs are a symbol of clout. ��Japan’s distinction comes from the fact that many Japanese mills still use authentic indigo pigments, dyeing and shuttle weaving machines, said Tilman Wröbel, founder and creative director of Monsieur-T, a denim lifestyle studio.
Mills from around the globe are honing their craft in the art of selvedge denim. by Angela Velasquez
“This winning combination can’t be found anywhere else, and that makes the difference to me,” he said.
Kaihara selvedge denim changed how Mohsin Sajid, co-owner of Endrime, creative director and denim historian viewed denim. In 2002 he was developing a collection for Levi’s Japan with Kaihara selvedge. “I was blown away from the quality, shade, slub pattern—even the smell. Then I slowly discovered many more Japanese denim mills [like] Kurabo, Nihonmenpu, Collect (Japan Blue) and Kuroki.”
the slow demise of ‘made in USA’ selvedge around the early 1980s, Sajid said. “The lack of quality ring-spun denim versus open-end coming out of America in this period caused our Japanese friends to start developing their own selvedge denim on converted kimono looms,” he said Along with this, Sajid noted Japanese mills reintroduced natural indigo,
SELVEDGE DENIM MEANS BETTER QUALITY, BUT IT HAS BEEN SOMEWHAT OVEREXPOSED THE LAST 10 YEARS.”
Mohsin Sajid, Endrime
Every fabric created on old and modern looms has a selvedge—or “self edge” which folds back onto itself, or an overlocked fluffy edge, Sajid explained. “But what’s confusing is when we say selvedge in the denim world, it indicates a fabric woven on an old shuttle loom, typically 28-34 inches wide. Most would also associate it red line selvedge linking back to quality and craftsmanship Cone Denim and its introduction of red line selvedge from 1927.”
However, Japanese mills have been developing the best selvedge fabrics since
▲ Candiani uses selvedge fabrics in their R&D processes.
► Selvedge accounts for 5-10 percent of Candiani’s business.
which disappeared after the introduction of chemical indigo around 1894 and began to use organic long staple cotton varieties from Pakistan, India and parts of Africa.
“Since the late 1990s, for sure since the start of my career in 2002, the best selvedge denim fabrics have been coming from Japan. Most notable Kurabo in 1972 after seven other attempts made the famous KD8 selvedge denim,” he said.
While there’s no argument from denim heads that fabrics from these mills are among the crème de la crème, mills in other manufacturing countries are proving how the big blue world of denim is large enough for everyone to indulge in selvedge.
“We admire the high quality and refined details of Japanese selvedge denim, as well as the heritage of Italian denim,” said Simon Giuliani, Candiani Denim’s global marketing director. “Our mill is proud to be the only one still producing denim in its birthplace, using rare vintage shuttle looms to create selvedge denim. We continually update these fabrics with the latest sustainable innovations to maintain or enhance authentic denim aesthetics while minimizing the impact on the environment and society. We don’t see Italian and Japanese selvedge denim as direct competitors. They are two distinct products with unique, fascinating, and intertwined histories that should be recognized and appreciated.”
SELVEDGE ROOTS
Selvedge is one reason why Candiani Denim is beloved by denim heads. Despite pioneering sustainable dyeing and stretch technologies, denim’s history is at the Italian mill’s core. Though the fabric is commonly associated with Japan, Candiani conducted a study with the city of Genoa, Italy and historians to find out that selvedge denim originated in Italy over 500 years ago. The fabric—a 3x1 cotton right-hand twill with indigo-dyed warp— was first woven in Genoa in the 16th century. It went by the name “fustian.”
Giuliani said the fabric was initially used by sailors to cover shiploads, produce sails and eventually worn as workwear. Genoese fustian was exported throughout Europe. The word “jeans” was derived from “Gênes,” the French name of Genoa.
In 1873, the iconic 5-pocket jean was born in the U.S., as Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss patented a riveted trouser in jeans’ fabric. When U.S. brands began mass-producing jeans in the 1960s, Japanese artisans sought to preserve the quality of U.S. denim, earning the association of frontier selvedge denim with Japan, Giuliani said. Post-WWII, Japanese artisans meticulously crafted accurate replicas of U.S. jeans, valuing U.S. culture and paying close attention to detail.
“Selvedge denim, the most traditional type, is crafted using shuttle looms,” he said. “Genoese fustian was initially produced using manual shuttle looms, which later became automatic with John Kay’s invention of the flying shuttle during the Industrial Revolution in 1733. Shuttle looms produce a distinctive white edge with colored stitching in the middle—often red as it was the traditional color used by Levi Strauss & Co. However, in the 1960s, they were largely replaced by faster and more efficient projectile looms to meet the surging demand for jeans. Japanese manufacturers began producing selvedge denim in the subsequent decade to uphold the authentic denim heritage.”
Despite selvedge being ingrained in denim’s history, the fabric is a unicorn in most stores and closets.
Yardage yield is a challenge. The regular yard yield of a pair of a 5-pocket selvedge is 3.5 yards versus 1.6 yards with wide-width fabric, said Kelvin Sin, Cone Denim’s senior denim designer. The fabric also lacks flexibility for all silhouettes since the side seams must be straight.
Selvedge denim is more expensive than fullwidth denim due to the slower production and smaller fabric output of shuttle looms. Given the scarcity of the equipment in the textile industry, specific knowledge and expertise are essential for maintaining the looms and producing the fabrics, Giuliani said.
Additionally, he said there’s a distinct method for cutting different denim qualities.
“Including the edge of selvedge denim in the finished garment, particularly in the inner seam of jeans, requires attention to detail and craftsmanship, which is becoming increasingly rare in the manufacturing process of selvedge jeans,” he said. “So, selvedge denim is definitely favored by valuerather than volume-oriented brands.”
Wröbel likens selvedge denim production to a symphony. As opposed to modern day rapier machines that weave at high speeds with value cotton, he said selvedge fabric represents
INNOVATING HISTORY
Candiani Denim’s selvedge business fluctuates between 5-10 percent. The mill’s selvedge fabrics are available in a wide range of options. Most feature 3x1 weaves in both righthand and left-hand twill. Dyes range from a variety of indigo shades to black and ecru.
“Their authentic, vintage, loose constructions recall denim’s classic ring character, while their more compact, high-density yarn constructions create a more straightforward, clean, and sophisticated workwear look,” Giuliani said.
Additionally, he said selvedge fabrics are built into Candiani’s R&D process. The mill usually applies new sustainable innovations to selvedge fabrics first and from there to fullwidth denim.
Candiani’s use of selvedge as a base for R&D is one example of how mills outside of Japan are innovating the fabric.
“The best selvedge denim is not always coming from Japan anymore,” Sajid said.
“As the selvedge category evolves, more regions and mills are introducing competitive alternatives with innovations in dyeing, weaving, and finishing,” said Zeeshan Ahmed Ch, GM of product development for Pakistanbased Neela by Sapphire. “This has made selvedge denim more accessible and diverse,
a specific level of quality that can only be achieved with a traditional shuttle loom.
“What counts is the slow rhythm, the humming, the quality of the soft weave. Slower makes a better texture, nicer fabric… Extra-long cotton fibers, rope-dye with lots of dips and traditional dry pigment indigo create long lasting, durable, textured, beautiful fabrics,” he said.
Wröbel travels across Japan to find the “ultimate rare artisan” fabrics for Handz, the brand he co-owns with Themis Goudroubis. His goal is to find fabrics that can be worn for ages, fade naturally and have the qualities that are unique to Japanese denim like long fiber cotton, true indigo dye and textured surfaces. His goal is to make “true collectible denim.”
“Some collect Porsche 911s from a specific period with a specific motor sound while most car owners drive a Toyota. And some collect proper, beautiful selvedge denim while the majority wear…” he said.
offering a wider range of styles from different parts of the world.”
“Japan has a distinct approach to selvedge denim, which we deeply respect. However, Isko brings diversity in color, stretch, elasticity, construction, composition, and sustainability to the table,” said Hakan Vercan, Isko category manager in selvedge.
Isko is moving the needle with performance and circularity. The Turkish mill produces selvedge products with no virgin cotton and heritage-inspired red selvedge denim with invisible stretch. “These fabrics not only offer comfort but are also enhanced with innovative coatings and responsible practices, making them both stylish and sustainable,” Vercan said.
US Denim’s selvedge denim business is operating at a capacity of 50,000 meters. The Pakistani mill’s new Roots collection uses EcoZero, a dye process that reduces water, energy and emissions. “The collection revives the time-honored craft of selvedge shuttle looms,
▲ Cone Denim introduced selvedge in 1905. It produced selvedge denim at its White Oak plant until 2017.
blending the authenticity of natural indigo with modern advancements like lighter weights and stretch for enhanced comfort,” Ali said.
The possibilities for selvedge are expanding, he added. US Denim’s Writing selvedge has distinct detailing. Broken Twill selvedge is known for its textured pattern and durability. The mill’s Color Denim selvedge offers different color casts, not just the classic indigo. “This evolution blends selvedge’s heritage appeal with modern innovations, offering more versatility to meet a wider range of consumer preferences,” Ali said.
Sajid noted that Pakistani and Turkish mills have “caught up” with Japanese mills, by learning from the past and making denim more sustainable. “They’re picking up the baton and, in most cases, overtaken our Japanese friends in innovation in spinning, dyeing, fiber development, even down the building safety, LEEDS certification for building and worker’s rights,” he said.
Mills in China, Vietnam, and Thailand are also producing superior denim now, he added.
Sajid said it’s frustrating how more industry people don’t recognize these manufacturing companies in the name of “staying true to the trope of Japanese supremacy in selvedge denim.”
“The internet is full of specialists and trend forecast companies that mainly tell stories with an angle or agenda. Many have never visited a denim mill or know how denim fabric is created. Whenever selvedge denim is mentioned, they only seem to mention Japanese mills or the closer of Cone Denim’s White Oak,” he said.
Cone debuted selvedge denim in 1905 and still produces the fabric. “As a historical American company, we have created our own character that has influenced the denim market and our own way of making selvedge. Japanese denim mills have their own specialties and things they are known for and are best at,” Sin said.
Selvedge represents three percent of Cone’s overall business, primarily driven by small premium brands from Europe, China, and the U.S. with specific capsule collections. The company, operating mills in Mexico and China,
produces selvedge fabrics using hemp and recycled cotton, available in a diverse range of weights, from lightweight shirting to robust 15.5 oz. constructions.
Recently, Cone introduced selvedge fabrics featuring Colourizd sustainable dye technology, which significantly reduces water usage and eliminates harmful chemicals. Sin said this innovative process not only allows for a broad spectrum of colors and textures but also enhances efficiency and sustainability in textile coloration.
Additionally, selvedge has been the base for Cone Community, a fabric collection that aligns with different causes.
THERE IS A GROWING INTEREST IN VINTAGE ITEMS LIKE SELVEDGE DENIM, SIMILAR TO THE RESURGENCE OF CDS AND VINYL RECORDS.” Hakan Vercan, Isko
THE SELVEDGE CUSTOMER
Purchasing selvedge jeans is a thoughtful and nuanced decision that reflects a deeper understanding of quality and craftsmanship. Wröbel chalks selvedge’s niche appeal up to education, adding that there is an “incredible information gap” between denim jeans and the average consumer.
“Selvedge denim means better quality, but it has been somewhat overexposed the last 10 years,” Sajid said. “The fact that you can go to Uniqlo and buy a £30-40 selvedge jean made from Kaihara from Japan made authentically with concealed rivets and chainstitch constructions in all the correct places has somehow confused buyers. When you go to specialist stores and see a £350-400 jean it for sure opens a lot of questions.”
Capsule collections are opportunities for mainstream brands to tell the story of selvedge.
fast fashion continues to dominate demand, there is a growing interest in vintage items like selvedge denim, similar to the resurgence of CDs and vinyl records,” Vercan said.
“Consumers are becoming more knowledgeable about selvedge denim, and enthusiasts seek premium quality and uniqueness. They expect vintage, authentic selvedge garments that also provide comfort. Additionally, some customers are even customizing their garments to add a personal touch.”
The selvedge aesthetic (a.k.a inky colors and clean, raw fabrics) is gaining traction as well seen in recent collections by Zimmermann, Cinq à Sept and Monse.
Though Neela by Sapphire currently doesn’t have a machine to produce the traditional selvedge edges, the Pakistani mill utilizes a homespun technique to create a more organic, rustic feel for its selvedge fabrics. “The imperfections in this process give the fabric a unique, handcrafted, old-world charm,” Ahmed Ch said. “Additionally, we’re improving performance by adding comfort stretch to our selvedge denim, providing flexibility and a more relaxed feel while keeping the classic rigid appearance. If we make this fabric water-repellent, it will be a game-changer.”
▲ Cone Community aligns selvedge fabrics with different causes.
Wrangler launched a Western collection this fall made with remnant White Oak selvedge fabric.
▼
This year Madewell launched two women’s collections with Kaihara, including jean styles made with selvedge. At the time of the launch Mary Pierson, Madewell SVP of denim design, said the brand’s customers are increasingly informed about mills. “We make efforts to educate them about who our partners are, highlighting the quality ingrained in our denim. We are so fortunate to work with some of the most premium denim mills in the world, and our customers recognize and value that quality,” she told Rivet.
“The demand for selvedge denim is growing significantly, with more brands showing interest. This shift reflects a broader trend towards craftsmanship, quality, and authenticity in denim,” Ali said.
Call it an effect of the analog economy. “While
Selvedge is highly favored by denim enthusiasts and heritage brands seeking to uphold and enrich the most genuine aesthetics. “Selvedge jeans are viewed as an investment that appreciates over time, as they get better with age, when the indigo fades by the wearer’s habits, thereby narrating their unique story,” Giuliani said. “Some of these brands exclusively utilize selvedge denim, which is often linked to superior quality and increased durability. For the same reasons, many luxury brands are favoring selvedge denim fabrics as well.”
Sajid said “an interesting shift is taking place” with most Japanese denim mills forgoing tradeshows like Kingpins that serve the broader denim market. Instead, they’re showing at more boutique shows like Denim Première Vision or taking an indirect approach through collaborations. For example, Kaihara recently partnered with Lenzing and Roica by Asahi Kasei to create a collection of stretch fabrics made with recycled fibers including selvedge.
Most work directly with brands, however. “Kaihara in Japan, from my understanding, has pretty much always gone direct to brands,” Sajid said.
Denim enthusiasts are changing their views of where it needs to come from, however. “If you spoke to me 10 years ago, I would say I only wear Japanese selvedge, then tell you an essay about how it’s made,” Sajid said.
Practical factors like price and sustainability are informing new opinions. “Now I’m a lot more conscious, and think carefully on the advancements on zero water, modern man-made cellulosic fibers like Tencel, the advancements of 100 percent recycled denim, the reintroduction of cottonized hemp and the exciting advancement—bio- and bacteriabased dyes,” he said.
A new generation of denim designers and buyers is being educated about denim mills in Pakistan, Turkey, India, Vietnam, China, and Thailand as well. “Hopefully the tunnel vision from the past is shifting away with the more conscious view that explores the wider narrative, which will help educate designers, buyers and enthusiasts. As much I love Japanese denim, the best is not always coming from Japan anymore,” Sajid said.
“Nothing is holding back denim and selvedge.” ■
MATERIAL WORLD
Mills are enhancing their Spring/Summer 2026 fabrics to address the increasing demands of consumers.. by Angela
as we look ahead to Spring/Summer 2026, the denim industry is witnessing a transformative shift. Mills, fiber producers, chemical companies and technology innovators are coming together to meet the growing consumer demand for comfort, sustainability, and cutting-edge fashion. Sustainability is at the forefront as leading mills explore new materials and processes that reduce environmental impact while delivering stylish and high-performance denim. �� As brands embrace circular economic principles, collaborations are thriving, and technology is playing a crucial role in enhancing transparency and ethical sourcing. Here, Rivet examines the innovations and sustainable practices shaping the future of denim.
SUSTAINABILITY
This season’s collections showcase an impressive commitment to eco-friendly practices, with advancements that go beyond traditional methods.
Naveena Denim Mills continues to explore the possibilities of food-derived fibers. For S/S ’26, the mill introduces EcoPine, a denim fabric crafted from Anam PALF, a traceable textile-grade fiber derived from waste pineapple leaves. The traceable fiber is made from 100 percent bio-based waste, ensuring zero food competition.
“With EcoPine, we take a step forward by transforming this agricultural waste into a valuable resource. Our unique proprietary process enables us to create premium textilegrade fibers with zero pulping, zero bleaching, and zero harmful chemicals,” said Berke Aydemir, the mill’s senior general manager of R&D and technical sales.
By repurposing these waste leaves, Naveena prevents approximately 13.33 kg of CO2 from being released into the atmosphere for every kilogram of Anam PALF produced. Additionally, as a staple fiber, EcoPine helps mitigate microfiber pollution and creates a new income stream for pineapple farmers.
From a technical standpoint, Aydemir said EcoPine boasts antibacterial properties, high absorption rates, short drying times, high tensile strength, and excellent dyeability. He said these qualities make it an ideal choice for consumers seeking sustainable fashion without compromising performance or style.
Plant-extracted indigo is a focal point of Planet Indigo by Chinese mill Tat-Fung. “The concept is refreshingly straightforward,” said Tim Huesemann, Tat-Fung’s sales director. “Each plant is handpicked, and no chemicals are added throughout the dyeing process.”
The collection is made possible by a collaboration with Shuise, a group dedicated
▲
► Siddiqsons
Velasquez
to preserving the art of heritage natural indigo dyeing. “We are working closely with minority ethnic communities to enhance indigo cultivation and production, preserving their cultural heritage,” Huesemann added. “Indigo has long been a key economic crop in these areas, and by supporting its sustainable use, we’re helping local farmers generate more income while promoting the continued practice of traditional indigo dyeing. By improving their skills, they can connect their tradition with modern industry and escape poverty.”
All fabrics in Isko’s collection are made with circular, textile-to-textile materials from RE&UP, the textile recycling arm of Sanko Group. The recycled cotton and polyester are made from end-of-life textiles and perform the same as virgin ones. “Isko’s unique woven technology transforms these high-quality fibers into high-performing fabrics that are durable and last,” said Mirela Slowik, Isko’s category leader.
SM Denim is incorporating organic cotton, recycled polyester and plant-based dyes into its fabrics. The Karachi, Pakistan-based mill is also working on a zero-waste concept, utilizing post-consumer textile waste to create fresh fabrics, aligning with the circular economy principles.
Demand for recycled fibers continues to be high. Bossa is meeting this need with Saxcell lyocell, a fiber made from recycled materials. “Bossa is proud to be the first and only mill to bring Saxcell to the market, and we’ve developed several innovative qualities using this fiber,” said Jordan Nodarse, Bossa design consultant. “Not only does Saxcell offer a luxuriously soft hand feel, but it also washes down beautifully, making it a game-changer for sustainable fashion.”
The Turkish mill is also partnering
Isko uses recycled fibers from RE&UP.
with Italian finishing technology firm Tonello and Renoon, an end-to-end solution for transparency management, to demonstrate that a truly sustainable supply chain goes beyond just the fibers. “It’s about transparency, ethical sourcing, and using technology to track and share this information. With Renoon’s cutting-edge platform, we’re setting a new standard for sustainability in fashion,” Nodarse said.
Siddiqson’s primary focus for the season is zero polyester and virgin cotton in fabrics. For that, the Pakistani mill is utilizing post-industrial waste (PIW) and viscose.
“The more we explore this concept, the closer we get to creating more circularity in our processes and fabrics,” said Ampelio Dal Lago, Siddiqson’s head of research and development.
Blends of naturally colored cotton and recycled fibers align with Sapphire Finishing Mills’ sustainability goals. “By reducing reliance on synthetic dyes, we minimize environmental impact, promoting an ecofriendlier production process,” said Jaffar Ali, Sapphire Finishing Mills’ manager of digital marketing and communications.
“Sustainability is at the heart of this collection, and each piece reflects our commitment to a greener future.”
Evlox focused on denim fabrics made with certified regenerative cotton and other naturally sourced fibers like linen, bamboo, and Ecovero sustainable viscose, which comes from FSC-PEFC certified forests. Additionally, most of the fabrics are made with Spanish cotton, which further enhances sustainability by reducing the carbon footprint of transportation, as Evlox’s factory is located less than 700 km from the cotton producer.
US Group’s new capsule collection, Roots, is crafted from local hemp and regenerative cotton, woven on traditional selvedge looms. The fabrics are dyed with natural indigo and use an eco-friendly zero-water dyeing technology to minimize their environmental impact. “Each piece is a perfect blend of heritage and modern innovation, offering a sustainable approach that honors both the traditions of the past and the possibilities of the future in fashion,” said Intizar Ali, US Group general manager research and business development.
Soorty merges innovation and tradition with smart, functional design. “We aim to
WE’VE CONSTRUCTED THE COLLECTION TO DELIVER BREATHABILITY AND VERSATILITY, IDEAL FOR THE WARMER SEASONS.” Jaffar Ali, Sapphire Finishing Mills
▲ US Group’s Roots collection is made with hemp and regenerative cotton.
▲ ▲
Evlox uses Ecovero, linen and bamboo in its S/S ’26 collection.
▲ ◄
Soorty’s Smart Indigo technology cuts down water useage by up to 90 percent.
support our brand partners in meeting their future sustainability goals by offering options that deliver on function, performance, and style—backed by transparency and data,” said Eda Dikmen, Soorty senior marketing and communications manager.
New for S/S ’26 is Roam, a collection designed for outdoor living, inspired by nature and developed using biomimicry principles. Soorty partnered with chemical producer Rudolf to incorporate finishes with anti-microbial properties, water repellency, and enhanced breathability. “We’ve even come close to a self-cleaning denim—a breakthrough we’ll continue working on,” Dikmen added.
Roam fabrics are made with Umorfil Bionic Fiber, which offers superior moisture management and is ideal for sensitive skin; Coolmax EcoMade, made from recycled resources for all-year comfort; and Repreve powered by Textile Takeback, a certifiable polyester made from recycled textile waste. The Pakistani mill is engineering innovative methods to boost the effect of lasers as well. Fast Fade showcases laser-ready denim in colors that capture California’s sun-kissed vibe.
DYES
Denim mills are also improving their dye processes for S/S ’26, focusing on reducing water and chemical use. Additionally, they’re experimenting with innovative techniques and new dyestuffs to create fresh, eyecatching looks for jeans.
Water is a key focus for the Brazilian mill Vicunha. A new collection of fabrics is produced with water from VSA Project, the mill’s proprietary process that purifies domestic sewage from towns neighboring its factory in Northeastern Brazil, thus producing 100 percent of recycled water for industrial use. The project, which cost approximately $12 million, was developed in partnership with Cagece, the state water and sewage company of Ceará.
“With zero consumption of water from natural sources, the collection contributes to environmental conservation and the wellbeing of local communities,” said Kürşad Çakılcıoğlu, product development and sales manager for Vicunha Europe.
SM Denim uses Indican, a proprietary dye process that utilizes natural fermentation. Indican reduces water and energy consumption by up to 70 percent. Additionally, the mill has developed lowimpact washes that utilizes laser and ozone technologies to create distressed and vintage finishes without harsh chemicals or excessive water.
The Uranus Overdye collection is Bossa’s latest dye innovation. The overdye process offers a spectrum of cast colors, creating a one-of-a-kind wash effect. “The versatility of this fabric makes it a true seasonless staple, perfect for year-round wear. It’s not just about aesthetics; it’s about offering designers a fabric that is as dynamic and adaptable as their creative vision,” Nodarse said.
Siddiqson has made significant
advancements in both dyeing and garment washing processes. “Our innovations in indigo dyeing allow for a 30-40 percent reduction in water usage and a 15-20 percent reduction in indigo consumption, boosting sustainability while enhancing color vibrancy,” Dal Lago said.
The Pakistani mill’s new wash techniques deliver improved results with reduced resource consumption, “maintaining a perfect balance of wash effects and color consistency across a range of denim finishes,” he added.
▲ Vicunha’s new collection includes fabrics made with 100 percent reecycled water..
▼ Orta uses Tanin, a natural dyestuff made from acorn shells.
Twin Dragon’s commitment to sustainability is highlighted by its use of liquid indigo dye in denim production—a method that Poon said not only reduces the environmental impact but also enhances the quality of our products.
“Liquid indigo dye is an efficient and ecofriendly alternative to traditional powder indigo. It significantly reduces hazardous discharge waste, minimizing the release of harmful chemicals into water systems during the dyeing process. Additionally, liquid indigo offers better shade stability, ensuring consistent color across batches while using less water and energy,” she said.
When combined with eco-finishing techniques and pre-treated fabrics, these advanced technologies further reduce water consumption and eliminate the need for harsh chemicals in the finishing process.
“This synergy between liquid indigo dye and sustainable finishing techniques allows us to produce high-quality denim that not only looks vintage and authentically aged but also leaves a much lighter environmental footprint, supporting our ongoing commitment to more responsible fashion,” Poon said.
Sapphire Finishing Mills is also exploring natural dyeing techniques derived from plant-based sources to achieve earthy, organic tones without synthetic chemicals.
“This season, we’re also experimenting with ozone washing, which allows for unique washed-down finishes while reducing water consumption,” Ali said.
Orta has a collection dyed with Tannin, a natural dyestuff made from acorn shells. The ingredient gives fabrics an earthy tone. This is in addition to Indigo Flow, a dyeing technique developed by Orta’s R&D team that achieves up to 70 percent water saving during dyeing.
Naveena Denim Mills is working on achieving brighter and richer color tones. “As a result, we are creating fabrics that maintain a vibrant appearance, even with lighter washes, while emphasizing the soft touch that enhances overall comfort,” Aydemir said. With Neo Black, Naveena offers a sustainable dye technology that enhances the richness and depth of black tones while minimizing environmental impact. Additionally, the Pakistani mill developed a new orange color within its Colortech line. Aydemir said the color strikes a perfect balance between orange and brown and aligns with current trends.
Maritas Denim addresses the market’s demand for fabrics that do not fade with Darkside, a reactive dye, that maintains its color for up to 20 home laundry washes. The mill is expanding its use of chemical-free coloring by using natural techniques and materials such as clay. Bright colors and new constructions are part of the S/S ’26 range.
Advance Denim is on a mission to develop innovations that have lasting systemic changes to the manufacturing process, according to Mark Ix, Advance Denim director of North American marketing. The new Blue Loop indigo recovery system uses membrane separation technology to remove unused indigo leaving clean water and reusable indigo. Blue Loop has a 98 percent recovery rate resulting in nearly zero wastewater discharge. “Blue Loop adds an unprecedented level of circularity to the indigo dye process,” he said.
Isko offers versatility and creativity with Isko Iconic, a line of rigid and stretch fabrics with different washable finishes. “Oxi
CHEMICALS IN FOCUS OFFICINA39
Italian chemical company Officina39 presented Zero PP, a new package of technologies designed to eliminate potassium permanganate (PP) from
“Potassium permanganate is particularly dangerous to the environment due to its high fish toxicity, but it is used to obtain a worn look at an optimal cut-rate,” said Andrea Venier, Officina39’s managing director. “For new technologies, replacing potassium permanganate in the market has been one of the main challenges.”
Officina39’s integrated solution allows for the same worn, vintage look traditionally achieved with PP. By combining advanced laser, ozone, waterless and nebulization technologies, Zero PP offers an eco-friendly alternative that balances visual effects, productivity, and cost-efficiency,
or contrast and depth in heavy washes. The Mirror Finish delivers a glossy, eyecatching look that lasts through light and heavy washes—perfect for the rising Y2K trend. Matrix adds a tint-like effect with an oily touch, giving the fabric a second-hand, resin-washed feel,” Slowik said.
Soorty is introducing new colors that wash down efficiently and brightly, along with lighter shades. “Our easy wash technology enables quick laundering without the need for heavy treatments, which helps reduce resource consumption,” Dikmen said.
This is in addition to the Pakistani mill’s use of Smart Indigo technology, which cuts down water usage by up to 90 percent, and a new salt-free dyeing process that works in tandem with Soorty’s Zero Waste Water dyeing process. Dikmen said this minimizes the number of tanks required in production and utilizes certified green chemicals, allowing Soorty to significantly reduce its water use and produce wastewater with no residues so it can be easily recycled.
Global Denim in Mexico is testing an improved zero-water discharge dyeing process on both new and existing fabrics, with the goal of creating a more efficient and
▲
Global Denim is experimenting with new sulfur dyes.
◄ Maritas offers loose and light fabrics for warm weather.
sustainable method. For bolder colors, the mill is experimenting with new sulfur dyes such as orange to pair with indigo.
“We’ve also acquired new machinery capable of pigment and disperse dyeing, allowing us to dye polyester and plasticbased fibers. This is an exciting development we’re looking forward to testing,” said Anatt Finkler, Global Denim creative director.
Spanish mill Evlox is committed to sustainable dye technologies to further reduce its environmental impact. This includes Ice by Evlox, a low impact dyeing method that reduces chemical use by up to 80 percent, water consumption by 65 percent, and energy usage by 25 percent. Similarly, Ice Khol by Evlox is a black dyeing process that lowers chemical use by up to 88 percent, water consumption by 76 percent, and energy usage by 36 percent compared to conventional methods.
Crescent Bahuman introduces Soul Series, a shade family developed with a 100 percent hydrosulfite-free process. Imran Tanveer, Crescent Bahuman, assistant VP, research and development, said the collection “unveils brighter wash downs and superior aesthetics compared to conventional denim fabrications.”
The process aligns with the mill’s sustainability goals by reducing chemicals by 30 percent and water by 45 percent. Additionally, Crescent replaces pumice stones with ceramic stones and finishes garments with cleaner alternatives to potassium permanganate spray.
Tat-Fung’s Downtown collection of blue, black and gray fabrics outperform conventional denim in color fastness, according Huesemann. The fabrics are infused with functional fibers that add a cool touch and quick-dry, UV protection and thermal regulation benefits. “It’s a versatile collection designed to not only look good but also perform, offering a modern twist on denim that responds to the needs of today’s active, style-conscious market,” he said.
LIQUID INDIGO DYE IS AN EFFICIENT AND ECO-FRIENDLY ALTERNATIVE TO TRADITIONAL POWDER INDIGO.”
Stephanie Poon, Twin Dragon
PERFORMANCE
Softness, ease of moment and warm weather are guiding the directions many denim mills are taking for their S/S ’26 fabric collections.
Naveena Denim Mills is focusing on lightweight, compact constructions that provide a soft hand feel. Lightweight Aerolite fabrics boast high moisture, chemical resistance and quick drying capabilities. The fabrics have a hollow structure that promotes airflow.
Aydemir likened a second innovation called Coolwaste to “personal climate control.” The circular fabrics keep the wearer and dry while also offering warmth when needed, he said.
Cone Denim’s Free Flow capsule of lightweight fabrics is designed for warmer
climates. The fabrics are ideal for looser silhouettes and denim apparel. Within this group, the mill offers variations on character from polished and smooth to authentic character with dimensional highs and lows.
This season, Cone is focused on marrying authentic character, comfort, and sustainability. “We achieved this by releasing a microcapsule of new products using a circular fiber blend that includes Circulose, Tencel and RCS-certified recycled cotton. The fabrics are soft, have authentic marble character, and are bright, pure indigo cast,” Scavuzzo said.
Other fabrics provide softness and ease achieved from Cone’s internal yarn engineering, which the mill’s 3-D innovation team designed to create a soft hand without
the use of alternative fibers. The Blend & Brawn capsule houses cotton-rich fabrics with polyester and nylon cores for superior performance and strength. “This curated collection brings together the best of workwear and western denim, developed for resilience and durability without sacrificing comfort and authenticity,” Scavuzzo said.
Maritas Denim responds to the market’s demand for loose and light fabrics with two new concepts called Hi-fly and Looselight.
“We experienced the hottest summer with alltime high degrees in 2024. Climate is changing extremely fast. Our collections should be adaptable to the climate by their materials and designs,” said Gizem Yasar, Maritas Denim’s marketing chief.
Sapphire Finishing Mills said it offers lightweight yet durable fabrics with a soft, luxurious hand feel. “We’ve constructed the collection to deliver breathability and versatility, ideal for the warmer seasons,” Ali said. The mill is blending natural fibers such as cotton, linen, and Tencel with sustainable synthetics to balance comfort, durability, and sustainability.
SM Denim emphasizes lightweight, breathable constructions for comfort in warmer weather. Mochiri, a left-hand twill fabric, boasts durability as well as a soft touch and a broken-in feel. Moisturewicking properties and UV protection are key. “These will feature enhanced stretch and recovery, perfect for athleisure and everyday wear. Some of our fabrics also include anti-microbial finishes and temperatureregulating properties, making them ideal for an active lifestyle,” the mill stated. Instead of relying on lyocell or rayon or finishing processes to achieve softness, Tat-Fung uses Silk Spun technology, an in-house innovation, to build it directly into the spinning process. “Silk Spun ensures the softness won’t fade over time, all while remaining fully compatible with cotton,” Huesemann said.
Weather conditions are top of mind for DNM Denim. Lightweight fabrics have the appearance of heavier, authentic denim, while rigid, vintage-style fabrics offer comfort even
▲ Crescent Bahuman introduces a 100 percent hydrosulfitefree dye process.
► Cone Denim partnered with Tonello and Piero Turk to develop One, a collection that uses one fabric for a variety of looks.
in hot temperatures, said Zuhal Karacayir, DNM’s marketing assistant. DNM offers a wide range of colors and constructions of drapey fabrics with a smooth finish as well.
Crescent Bahuman is keeping denim cool with two new technologies. The new Aerolite collection offers fabrics ranging from 6 oz. to 11.25 oz. with a strong focus on super soft feel. The mill has also developed Brass finish, designed to enhance moisture-wicking capabilities, making fabrics breathable and ideal for active lifestyles.
US Group offers fabrics that have soft, openend yarns for a more relaxed, comfortable feel. The mill achieves summery shades a soft handle through blended fibers like Tencel and innovative construction techniques.
Lenzing’s Ecovero fibers add sustainability to Evlox’s line of soft fabrics. The fibers are derived from sustainably managed and certified renewable wood pulp.
“This eco-friendly option not only reduces environmental impact but also consumes at least 50 percent less water and emits 50 percent less CO2 compared to conventional viscose, as reported by the Higg MSI. These fabrics offer exceptional softness and stretch,
CHEMICALS IN FOCUS SOKO
Indigo knits have been an area of interest for the “Godfather of Denim” Adriano Goldschmied for years. His new project with Italian chemical manufacturer Soko and textile and garment manufacturer Knitdigo puts the comfy fabric back in the spotlight. The trio presented “A New Level of Comfort,” a collection of indigo knit garments that resemble authentic denim. Goldschmied, who works with Soko for his Daily Blue brand, challenged the chemical firm to develop wash techniques compatible with knit jeans, which Luca Braschi, Soko’s consultant and denim finishing expert, said are known for their difficulty.
The collection utilizes gentle chemistries like Soko Lumia, a dry ozone technology, and Soko Authentica, a new non-acidic potassium permanganate alternative, to achieve knit garments with a worn-in appearance. Braschi said Soko Authentica “turns the page” in finishing by enabling local fading and creating natural vintage effects. Additionally, the potassium permanganate replacement is easy to manage in production.
and their left-hand weave further enhances their gentle feel,” said Francisco Ortega, Evlox’s R&D manager.
Bossa’s focus is on creating unique blends that highlight the best of its heritage. “Our new collections feature a sophisticated mix of recycled linen, natural brown cotton, and Tencel lyocell, resulting in fabrics that are not only visually stunning but also offer an exceptional hand feel,” Nodarse said. “As brands seek to streamline their manufacturing processes and reduce manual labor, we’re delivering materials that arrive factory-ready with special finishes like coatings, tints, and overdyes—minimizing production time while maximizing aesthetic appeal.”
The high-end market is on Bossa’s radar. The Turkish mill addresses the demand for luxury denim with new Cupro blends. Nodarse said the fabric range is a “cut above the rest, combining a silky, luxurious hand feel with a distinctive appearance that sets them apart in the market.”
“Cupro’s natural breathability and soft drape make it a perfect choice for high-end collections, offering comfort and style,” he added.
Isko is focused on advancing construction and hand feel. Isko Multitouch is a new collection that delivers multiple textures and finishes from a single fabric, allowing brands to select between super-soft and firmer handles simply by adjusting laundry and finishing techniques. The fabric enables 3D effects such as whiskers and cracked textures without chemicals or resins.
Isko’s Revotec technology is another hghlight, according to Slowik. “It gives an exceptionally soft hand feel to fabrics without the use of cotton. On top of that, it has an 85-90 percent reduction in water usage compared to traditional methods, making it a breakthrough in sustainable fabric manufacturing,” she said.
AGI Denim’s Soft Serve collection features some of the mill’s “most indulgent, comfortdriven fabrics.” The Pakistan mill achieves this level of softness without sacrificing durability and true denim character. “The Soft Serve fabrics offer something truly special that you [must] feel to fully appreciate,” said Henry Wong, AGI Denim’s VP, product development and marketing.
Cloud Core is Siddiqson’s solution for fabrics with an elevated hand feel. Spanning rigid to super stretch constructions, the popular collection marries vintage-inspired visuals with modern comfort. The mill is expanding it for S/S ’26 to include additional articles with
enhanced performance and unique effects.
“Our Cloud core collection offers a contemporary evolution of the classic 501 look but with an exceptional hand feel and a drape, refined aesthetic,” Dal Lago said. “We are excited to push the boundaries further, one of the most revolutionary ideas we’re implementing is the incorporation of indigodyed wefts into our fabrics. This innovative approach not only enhances the visual appeal with rich, dynamic colors but also adds depth and character to each article.”
Soorty approaches constructions from different angles to ensure the vertically integrated denim manufacturer has a diverse range of options for its brand partners. For those seeking durability, Soorty’s Workwear collection offers 2×1 and 3×1 right-hand twill weaves. The Textural group offers a tactile and visual experience through weave designs like herringbone, dobby, and ripstop that enhance denim’s texture and appearance.
With Flexible Friends, Soorty shows bistretch fabrics that maintain an authentic denim look, available with heavy, mid, or subtle slub patterns.
“We also have a range of fabrics with linen content, adding an organic touch and natural texture as well as strength in ecrus, blacks, and indigos. Another highlight is our concept dedicated to true comfort… The ultra-soft hand feel is achieved through left-hand twill constructions and blends of premium yarns, offering styles that range from clean, classic looks to more pronounced, textured slubs,” Dikmen said.
WE ARE WORKING CLOSELY WITH MINORITY ETHNIC COMMUNITIES TO ENHANCE INDIGO CULTIVATION AND PRODUCTION, PRESERVING THEIR CULTURAL HERITAGE.”
▲ AGI Denim delivers soft constructions.
Tim Huesemann, Tat-Fung
Stretch is a key part of Advance Denim’s collection. The mill’s newest innovation is Cotton Fit, a fabric made entirely with long staple, super soft cotton but it has the flexibility of comfort stretch. Advance achieves this by using a unique construction, which Ix said is perfect for wide-leg silhouettes.
The mill is also expanding its range of fabrics made with The Lycra Company’s Fitsense technology which enables denim designers to customize stretch levels to enhance comfort and shaping in targeted areas. The technology was introduced in April.
“Fitsense is a mixture of fiber technology and enhanced fabric construction along with innovative garment finishing that creates variable stretch zones that provide performance without changing the look or feel of true vintage-inspired constructions,” Ix said.
In addition to 100 percent cotton fabrics and the reintroduction of linen sourced from France-based Safilin, Orta is exploring the possibilities of denim made with bio-derived Lycra from The Lycra Company.
For S/S ’26, the Turkish mill debuts a capsule using regenerative cotton and Qira, a nextgen butanediol (BDO) made from renewable U.S.-grown field corn instead of fossil-based materials. Developed with Qore, the bioderived Lycra is the world’s first renewable spandex available on a large scale.
The fiber enables Orta to achieve longlasting, good-quality fabrics made with responsible materials, said Sebla Onder, Orta’s marketing and sustainability manager. She added that the fabrics have high stretch levels and are equal in quality and durability to conventional denim. ■
COWBOY COOL AND CONSISTENT
fashion has been keeping an eye on the cowboy denim trend for decades. Nostalgia for the latest version of the trend can be attributed to Beyoncé’s ode to her hometown Houston, Texas on her latest album, “Cowboy Carter.” Fans may be obsessed with Queen Bey’s version of Western but Ralph Lauren’s love story with all things Americana ensures it remains runway ready. �� From cowboy boots to Levi’s vintage jeans, here’s a look at how 2024’s biggest trend has always been in style
1 Ralph Lauren on the runway with models during his Fall 1990 ready-to-wear fashion show.
Ralph Lauren Western Wear Jeans, 1976.
Levi Strauss, Fall 1979, Young Misses Denim and Sportswear.
Ralph Lauren Fall 1978 ready-to-wear collection runway show in New York.
5 Portrait of Ralph Lauren on the debut of his first sock collection with Hot Sox on Aug. 25, 1977.
Western fashion may have nabbed some new headlines this year but it always has a home on the runway. by Tonya Blazio-Licorish
