Rivet Summer Issue 2023

THE SEAL OF COTTON CELEBRATES 5O YEARS

consumers easily discover and purchase cotton products.

This trademark, commissioned by Cotton Incorporated, was designed by Landor Associates, the same marketing firm behind the Levi Strauss logo. The Seal established a brand identity for cotton fiber and cotton growers, raising consumer and supply chain attention toward the material.

Since its introduction in 1973, the seal’s awareness among shoppers has expanded from 18 percent to 78 percent today* courtesy of mass media marketing campaigns.

THE SEAL THROUGH THE DECADES

Cotton is the most widespread, profitable non-food crop in the world. Its production provides income for more than 250 million people worldwide and employs almost 7 percent of all labor in developing countries, which includes more than 28 million cotton farmers globally.

In jeanswear and more, cotton provides the durability, comfort and quality that shoppers are seeking. For 50 years, the Seal of Cotton has been helping

“The power of the Seal is real,” said Kim Kitchings, senior vice president of consumer marketing at Cotton Incorporated. “Cotton Incorporated has been doing consumer research for nearly three decades to gather consumer attitudes, behavior and insights. This data shows us that over the past 20 years, more than 8 out of 10 consumers are aware of the Seal and they associate it with fashion, durability, quality, comfort, trust and sustainability.”

Given the widespread familiarity with the Seal it influences shoppers’ buying choices, with 81 percent saying a brand using the Seal of Cotton logo is “trying to help me make an informed purchase decision.” Additionally, 74 percent believe that products with the Seal boast better quality than other options, and 82 percent say they can rely on products

1980s

► The Seal of Cotton is introduced.

► Cotton Incorporated launches its “True Performance” advertising campaign, using hangtags with the Seal of Cotton to identify millions of garments at retail. Cotton market share climbs to 49%, while awareness of the Seal of Cotton trademark grows to 71%.

1990s

► Procter & Gamble displays the Seal of Cotton trademark for the first time on non-textile products: Cheer, Tide and Ivory Snow.

COTTON IS “THE FABRIC OF OUR LIVES”and this iconic tagline rings even more true for cotton-rich denim garments. Cotton is woven into denim’s storied history, but it’s also part of individuals’ personal histories and the memories that happen in denim garments.

59% 77% 82%

and brands associated with the seal. Most shoppers (82 percent) also wish to see the Seal on more products, and 62 percent are even willing to pay more for Seal -baring goods.

“As a leading Gen-Z retailer of comfortable, casual clothing, cotton is an integral part of Aéropostale’s success,” said Michael DeLellis, executive vice president marketing, Aéropostale.

“Over the past 50 years, the Seal of Cotton has been a symbol of premium quality and durability, which has set the industry standard high and continues to inspire us. We look forward to the next 50 years of the logo we all know and love.”

When shopping for jeans, 49 percent of consumers say the Seal of Cotton is the logo they would most want to see on a product. Comparatively, other branding was named as the first choice by less than 10 percent of consumers, including Dri-fit (6%), Coolmax (5 %), Woolmark (5 %), Tencel (5 %) and Lycra (3%).

In addition to quality they trust, most consumers also associate the Seal of Cotton with sustainability (82 percent) and natural (90 percent). Cotton Council International (CCI) & Cotton Incorporated’s 2021 Global Sustainability Survey found that 58 percent of consumers say sustainability impacts their purchase decisions.

“For more than 50 years, the Cotton Incorporated Seal of Cotton is a signal of superior quality that is recognized around the world,” said Amy Williams, CEO of Citizens of Humanity Group, which includes Citizens of Humanity, Agolde and

Goldsign. “We congratulate Cotton Incorporated on this milestone anniversary, and importantly, on their commitment to sustainable practices within the cotton industry for the next 50 years, and beyond. As consumers around the world pay additional attention to sustainability, recycling, durability and versatile products, the Cotton Incorporated Seal will be even more important and covetable.”

2000s

► In conjunction with Cotton Council International (CCI), Cotton Incorporated develops a trade and consumer marketing campaign for India called the Cotton Gold Alliance (CGA). This marks the first time the Seal of Cotton has been used outside of the Americas for consumer promotions.

2004

AS CONSUMERS AROUND THE WORLD PAY ADDITIONAL ATTENTION TO SUSTAINABILITY, RECYCLING, DURABILITY AND VERSATILE PRODUCTS, THE COTTON INCORPORATED SEAL WILL BE EVEN MORE IMPORTANT AND COVETABLE.”

AMY WILLIAMS CEO, CITIZENS OF HUMANITY GROUP

2005

►The creation of the Natural™ trademark is developed as a part of Cotton Incorporated’s larger sustainability strategy. Building on the wide recognition of the Seal of Cotton, the trademark resonated across multiple industries, ultimately being adopted by six brands for their own green marketing efforts.

AS A LEADING GEN-Z RETAILER OF COMFORTABLE, CASUAL CLOTHING, COTTON IS AN INTEGRAL PART OF AÉROPOSTALE’S SUCCESS.”

MICHAEL DE LELLIS EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT MARKETING, AÉROPOSTALE

► Consumer recognition of the Seal of Cotton trademark reaches more than 80%.

AN INCREASING MAJORITY OF CONSUMERS ASSOCIATE THE SEAL OF COTTON WITH “SUSTAINABLE.”

84% CONCERNED ABOUT QUALITY

81% ONE I WOULD BE LIKELY TO PURCHASE 80% IS AUTHENTIC

79% IS TRUSTWORTHY

77% CARES ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENT

THE SEAL THROUGH THE DECADES

One reason for the positive sustainability perception is Cotton Incorporated’s longstanding work in this area. In 2006, the organization introduced its Blue Jeans Go Green™ program, which helps recycle post-consumer jeans into products such as insulation. To-date, Blue Jeans Go Green™ progam has diverted over 4 million jeans weighing more than 2,000 tons from landfills.

GROWING COTTON’S SHARE

Over the years, the Seal has also supported and promoted cotton usage within the supply chain. In the 1980s, the launch of advertising efforts such as “True Performance” and “The Fabric of Our Lives” contributed to cotton’s market share climbing to 49

TRENDS WILL COME AND GO, BUT COTTON HAS ALWAYS BEEN THE FOUNDATION OF DENIM.”

—KIM KITCHINGS

SENIOR

VICE PRESIDENT

OF CONSUMER MARKETING, COTTON INCORPORATED

percent, and mill consumption of U.S. cotton reached levels not seen in 15 years. Today, cotton remains a popular fiber choice for apparel and home textiles. In addition to lifting cotton demand in the market, Cotton Incorporated undergoes research and development to discover new innovations and solutions in processing cotton so that everyone from ginners and spinners to weavers and sewers can create the best possible end product.

“Through the decades, we’ve built a foundation and helped create relevance highlighting the Seal of Cotton among all partners throughout the supply chain. Over the next 50 years, we’ll continue to ensure that cotton remains the first and best choice, with a clear emotional connection that no other fiber can claim,” noted Kitchings. “Trends will come and go, but cotton has always been the foundation of denim. It is the benchmark and there will never be a more relevant story than the success of denim with cotton as the key preferred and trusted ingredient.” ■

COTTON INCORPORATED licenses the Seal of Cotton on a royalty-free basis for qualifying products. The Seal can be used globally in a wide range of communications—including packaging, promotional programs, point-of-sale displays, interactive digital experiences and more. For more information on licensing the Seal, visit CottonWorks™ website

2006

► Cotton Incorporated launches the Blue Jeans Go Green™ denim recycling initiative.

2015

► Expansion of digital advertising and Seal of Cotton programs to work with companies such as Spotify, Buzzfeed, Amazon and Revolve to ensure consumers are surrounded by cotton messaging.

2020—PRESENT

►The Seal of Cotton is registered in nearly 70 countries with more than 950 brands There are 190 worldwide licensees.

WHEN RETAILERS & BRANDS USE THE SEAL, 4 OUT OF 5 CONSUMERS BELIEVE THAT THE BRAND IS:

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SUMMER JAM

ITURN 40 this summer. Preliminary birthday plans include a weekend in Memphis soaking up all the Elvis Presley kitsch that Graceland offers, and singing my heart out at one of Beyoncé’s “Renaissance” tour stops. My celebration is somehow morphing into a musical milestone, but then again, I grew up on MTV—the version before “Jersey Shore,” though I’m hooked on that too, Thursday nights at 8 p.m.

Born just two years after the channel debuted, toddler Angela, according to family lore, was transfixed by Culture Club’s “Karma Chameleon” music video. In between standard kid fare like “Sesame Street” and “The Muppets”, there was Cyndi Lauper, Madonna, Michael Jackson, Whitney Houston and George Michael, whose long overdue induction into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame will finally take place this fall.

Indeed, there’s something nostalgic in the air that’s once again bringing icons like George Michael back into the cultural zeitgeist, including Rivet’s fashion editorial. Aptly titled “George,” the story (pg. 48) pays homage to his signature double-denim stage looks and the iconic ensemble from his 1987 “Faith” music video that made wearing a black leather motorcycle jacket atop Levi’s 501 jeans a worldwide style sensation.

Instantly symbolic of rebellious cool, the outfit has become ingrained in music, fashion and pop culture history. Style-wise, it’s a look that Brooklyn hipsters and Parisian bohemians still replicate by mixing new and vintage garments.

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That’s great news for the 501, which turned 150 years old on May 20, 2023. Worn by 1870s West Coast miners, 1960s hippies and modern reggaetón sensation Bad Bunny at this year’s Grammys, the 501 is a long-running moneymaker for the storied San Francisco brand. 501 revenues this year are expected to approach $800 million, nearly 70 percent higher than pre-pandemic numbers. In “The Archetype” (pg. 32), we dissect how the 501 became the blueprint for the modern jean. In “Time Traveler” (pg. 42), we look back at the style’s defining moments and reminisce with denim heads on what the jean stands for in the industry.

Though it’s easy (and fun) to get lost in denim’s vaunted past, we would be remiss to overlook the ways the supply chain is pushing forward. In “Dark Art” (pg. 24) we examine the color-lasting technologies brands are using to keep dark indigo and black washes as fresh as day one. In “Dirty Talk” (pg. 26), we look at how brands can sustainably reinvent the dirty-looking washes synonymous with Y2K denim. We cool off in “Jeans in Heat” (pg. 20), which looks at the fiber technologies and unique weaves making jeans a comfortable choice even when temperatures are rising.

The innovation and newness engulfing the denim market give me faith, faith, faith that jeans will be cool and covetable another century-and-a-half from now.

THE RIVETING LIST

STYLE AND SUBSTANCE

With backing by some of Europe’s leading innovation VC’s, Belgium label HNST is setting its sights on the United States. The brand has undergone a visual rebranding rooted in “elevated simplicity.” Saks Fifth Avenue picked up the men’s collection this spring and it will add women’s in the fall.

The classic fits and vintage-inspired fabrics that have landed HNST in stores in Belgium, Italy, Germany, France, the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, and Japan are the focal point in HNST’s efforts to gain

share in the U.S. premium denim market. The company offers core fits—relaxed, relaxed tapered, straight and slim tapered for men; mom, dad, straight, high rise loose and balloon for women—in indigo, black and ecru retailing for up to $195.

The jeans are 100 percent circular and made with low impact washes—a mere footnote in its rebranding—but an integral part of the HNST’s story. “We want to give [consumers] a more sustainable and circular way of buying clothes without them initially knowing it,” said Martijn Swolfs, HNST CEO.

ANGELA VELASQUEZ

FRIEND CIRCLE

Triarchy launched its first fully recyclable denim collection. The five-piece women’s collection, called “Cellsius: Designing with the Earth in Mind,” was produced under Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign guidelines, ensuring the garments consider circularity from production to the end of the product lifecycle. The collection spans relaxed jeans, a jacket, a sleeveless tunic dress, shorts and a vest— each designed with a vintage aesthetic.

Triarchy teamed with the Karachi, Pakistan-based denim manufacturer, AGI Denim, for the first time to develop the collection. The 100 percent cellulosic denim used throughout the collection comprises 70 percent organic cotton, 9 percent Circulose, and 21 percent viscose from sustainably managed forests. No synthetic fibers were used.

“The common goal for this project was bringing together a group of industry leaders to try and tackle end of life and recyclability in the denim space. AGI was able to take all the ingredients from all partners and create the final product that surpasses all our expectations,” said Adam Taubenfligel, Triarchy co-founder and creative director. AV

SUSTAINING FARMERS

Plant-based dyes and organic cotton are the main drivers of sustainability for the new Levi’s WellThread collection. The Spring/Summer 2023 men’s and women’s collection uses fabrics spun with organic cotton sourced from Levi’s WellThread Transitional Cotton program. Launched in 2020, the program works with small shareholder farmers in India as they transition their fields to a production system

that sustains the health of soils, ecosystems and local communities. The brand supports the farmers during this transition by committing to purchase their transitional cotton crop, which reduces their financial risk during the shift to organic farming.

The S/S ’23 collection also sees the addition of the plant-based black pigment, BioBlack TX by Nature Coatings. The black pigment comes from upcycled wood waste that otherwise would be burned or landfilled and serves as a replacement for petroleum-derived carbon black, which relies on the combustion of fossil fuels.

Style-wise, the collection zeroes in on classic silhouettes with long-lasting appeal. For women, the assortment includes the Baggy Dad, a loose and relaxed-fitting jean, and the Type II Trucker, a boxy silhouette with denim-covered snaps. New additions include the ’80s Mom Shorts and a slim denim shirt with denim-covered snaps. Men’s fits for the assortment include the 551Z and 502 in denim, the Loose Chino Crop in printed denim, and the Vintage Trucker jacket. AV

HNST

TRIARCHY

BLING RING

Frame’s capsule collection with British Vogue fashion director, Julia Sarr-Jamois, includes an $11,995 pair of jeans.

The lavish offering shows how denim brands are cooking up attention-grabbing pieces to create a halo effect for their whole collections. Boasting more than 50,000 iridescent chocolate brown Swarovski crystals, the low-slung, straight leg jean is “the most luxurious denim currently on the market,” according to Frame. The pièce de resistance took 120 hours to make.

The limited-edition, 19-piece capsule collection is inspired by Sarr-Jamois’ eclectic style, featuring bold colors, earthy textures and tie-dye prints. A range of artisanal crochet pieces keeps the holiday vibe going. It includes a crochet string bikini, halter mini dress, bucket hat, earrings, and a handmade beaded tote. A pair of camouflage print cargo pants nods to the ongoing utility trend. AV

BOSSY PANTS

A new boss is entering the denim fray. Hugo Boss announced it is expanding its portfolio with Hugo Blue, a line dedicated to denim. The brand’s aesthetic will be inspired by street culture and embrace a relaxed approach to dressing.

Denim will be at the core of the men’s and women’s collection when it arrives in stores in February 2024. The denim range will be complemented by jersey, knitwear, outerwear pieces and accessories. Some

unisex styles will also be available.

Hugo Blue will launch with four collections per year and have the same opening prices as the existing Hugo brand line. Products will be available worldwide in Hugo retail stores and on its website. Wholesale and e-commerce partners will also carry the brand. The order season for the first Hugo Blue collection begins in June.

A full-throttle rollout and a shop concept dedicated to the younger target group will support Hugo Blue’s launch, as well as a new bold blue logo design. AV

ARTISAN APPRECIATION

AG launched the Chimayó collection, a special collaboration with Irvin and Lisa Trujillo, seventh-generation weavers in New Mexico. Inspired by Northern New Mexico’s landscapes and the Rió Grande river, the collection offers “extremely limited” men’s and women’s jean jackets with traditional handcrafted Chimayó woven paneling at the back.

AG tapped the award-winning husband-and-wife team to boil, process, spin and dye the yarn from Churro sheep, a breed that arrived in New Mexico with Francisco Vázquez de Coronado’s expedition in 1540. AG said the “hardy sheep” are known for their silky, lustrous wool. The Trujillos then weaved the colorful yarns into designs that pay homage to New Mexico’s history in sheepherding, spinning and weaving.

“The collection honors the heritage

and labor-intensive process, making for a truly special offering. Vibrant colors and geometric shapes appear to dance, conveying a motion that celebrates the traditional craft, one that is centuries old and passed down through generations,” the brand stated.

The black and indigo jackets are made with 100 percent cotton and are assembled in the U.S. AV

KEEPING UP WITH THE JONESES

Sustainable denim is coming soon from Jones New York. Authentic Brands Group announced that it has entered a long-term partnership with sustainable denim manufacturer, Noize Jeans, for its Jones New York brand. Through the partnership, Noize Jeans will design, produce and distribute men’s bottoms, jackets and denim for the brand.

The goal is to produce denim garments that stays true to Jones New York’s classic yet modern aesthetic while delivering comfort and fabrics that are built to last. The new assortment is expected to roll out across key department stores, specialty retailers and online in North America starting this fall.

“Noize Jeans’ expertise in the jeans space is second to none, and we are pleased to partner with them on the expansion of Jones New York’s men’s apparel offerings with uniquely designed lifestyle apparel product,” said Joseph N. Zarro, Authentic Brands Group executive vice president of luxe and classic brands. AV

ITALIAN JOB

Candiani Denim tapped a group of sustainable leaders to help evolve its patented Coreva technology into a full-fledge apparel brand. Called Coreva Design, the brand will offer jeans made exclusively with the Italian mill’s natural and biodegradable stretch denim fabrics when it launches for Spring/Summer 2024.

Candiani is rolling out a series of capsule collections ahead of the official launch, beginning with a four-piece line made with Quid, a Verona, Italy-based tailoring workshop, and Orange Fiber, a producer of yarn derived from citrus waste.

The collection is designed by model Gabriela Giovanardi and consists of four gender- and size-inclusive pieces inspired by vintage pieces from her personal wardrobe. It includes workwear-inspired overalls, cargo pants, a boxy shirt and a sweatshirt. All fabrics contain Coreva and Orange Fiber and are dyed with mineral pigments.

Candiani introduced Coreva in 2020 as an alternative to synthetic yarns. The technology uses the elastic properties of a plant material derived from natural rubber to create the same level stretch and comfort that plastic provides. AV

COREVA DESIGN

FRAME

GLITZ AND GLAM

Swarovski crystals and dramatic cutouts are part of 7 For All Mankind’s capsule collection with Italian fashion journalist and stylist Anna Dello Russo. The Los Angeles premium denim brand teamed with Dello Russo for the limited-edition collection of haute denim inspired by the glamorous style that captivates her 2.6 million Instagram followers.

Celebrating “high-octane fashion,” the collection’s hero styles include a cropped denim Trucker jacket and a bodycon dress made with “luxe stretch denim.” Jeans include 7 For All Mankind’s signature fits, the HW slim kick and relaxed bootcut jeans. Each piece features white crystals and circular cutouts.

“We combined 7 For All Mankind’s 20 years of denim expertise with my signature touch of glamour to create something really special,” Dello Russo said in a statement.

Other items include an embellished shirt, a cropped top, slouchy denim shorts and a white tank top.

“She is incredibly talented, full of ideas and a contagious energy,” Francesca Toninato, 7 For All Mankind Global CEO, said about Dello Russo. “Our world of refined premium denim has been given a new fashion touch—one that embodies Anna’s innate glamour and haute couture edge. We are very proud to launch this sophisticated, disruptive aesthetic within the denim market.” —AV

BEAR ESSENTIALS

Buddy Lee, the iconic mascot that starred in Lee’s advertisements from the 1920s to the 1960s, and again in the 1990s, is the focal point of a new collaboration. The Kontoor Brands-owned heritage brand announced a partnership with Medicom Toy, the Japanese creator of Be@rbrick dolls.

The Lee x Be@rbrick collaboration offers three iterations of a Buddy Lee doll that embodies the mascot’s mischievous

attitude. The figurine is available in the 1000%, a Be@rbrick doll that stands over two feet tall. Smaller 400% and 100% sizes dolls are available as a duo. Each doll wears a denim overall and hat inspired by heritage Lee designs. The collectibles cost $800 for the large one and $200 for the set.

“This collaboration feels like the perfect mesh of two global icons,” said Joe Broyles, Lee VP of global collaborations. “The figurines are a new iteration of Buddy and will be great additions for denim fans and Be@ rbrick collectors.”

An apparel collection accompanies the dolls. It consists of three T-shirts and a denim jacket. Each tee features a different design of patches or screen-printed imagery of Buddy Lee and his Be@rbrick counterpart. The denim jacket is based on the Lee Rider jacket and boasts an oversized fit and vintage wash with sewn-on patches of Buddy Lee.

“We love how the accompanying tees and jacket bring a wearable connection to these collectibles,” Broyles added. AV

SMART HOME

Ikea launched the first iteration of what will be an annual home accessories collection dedicated to traditional craftmanship.

Called “Mavinn,” the line features 20 handmade items from seven social businesses located across Asia. These partners—Saitex, Spun, Doi Tung, Classical Handmade Products, Ramesh Flowers, Industree P.T. and Rangsutra—provide long-term job opportunities for people from vulnerable groups, Ikea said.

The collection includes baskets, rugs, a lampshade, an apron, bags, cushion covers and a wall organizer and was made with cotton, over-run materials from denim production and natural fibers. “Most” materials were sourced locally in Bangladesh, India, Thailand and Vietnam, where Ikea’s partners are located.

“One of our goals with this collection has been to create a diverse collection of handcrafted items that someone who enjoys walking at a local crafts market would like,” said Maria Vinka, Ikea designer. “We have a beautiful collection with handcrafted items, a natural appearance with contrasts using embroidery and colorful splashes. That is something I think our customers will really appreciate.”

CHELSEA DOBROSIELSKI

BETTER BASICS

Lands’ End is the latest brand to add Recover’s high-quality, low-impact recycled cotton fiber to its ingredient matrix.

The brand bowed a line of women’s jeans made with the Spanish materials innovation company’s branded fiber. The comfort stretch jeans are made with fabrics comprised of 52 percent cotton, 20 percent Recover recycled cotton, 27 percent polyester and one percent spandex.

The recycled cotton is from textile waste, significantly reducing the carbon and water footprint of the new apparel produced with it. Lands’ End highlights the sustainable benefits of using Recover in the collection’s product descriptions, calling attention to how using “just 20 percent of Recover recycled cotton fiber to make just one pair of jeans will save enough water to amount to 23 showers or one year of drinking water.” The jeans are also dyed with liquid indigo that requires less indigo than traditional indigo, the company stated.

The collection spans straight, straight ankle, cropped flare, wide-leg, boyfriend and bootcut fits. The jeans have contoured, no-gap backs and are offered in a dark rinse wash. Jeans are finished with a faux leather back patch made with apple skin. AV ●

DESIGNER CHAT

BY ANDRE CLAUDIO

LOOSE FITS, skate culture and a variety of rises are the main players in Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collections. With sustainability and comfort at the top of consumers’ lists, brands are paying closer attention to the ingredients in the fabrics they source and their impact on the environment. Here, designers and executives from leading brands discuss what’s next for jeans and how they stay inspired.

On F/W 23-24 trends: We are seeing a resurgence of vintage prep, bringing back bold stripes and preppy silhouettes. The ’90s are back in a big way with very loose-fitting jeans, tighter tops and lots of textured knits. Lastly, in a post-covid world, comfortable sophistication is everywhere, from elevated sweats to long driving coats, shackets and layers that go from day to night.

On balancing sustainability and design: Sustainability is part of our vernacular. We do not consider any fabric or item to be created without an ecostory. In fact, 95 percent of our line is sustainable.

FIVE DESIGNERS AND EXECS DISCUSS WHAT’S NEXT IN DENIM FOR FALL/WINTER 2023-2024.

◄ CAROLIN LOOSE CARVE DESIGNS DESIGN DIRECTOR

CARVE DESIGNS

On what I want to see more of from the denim industry: Better dyeing processes, less water usage and repurposing denim more frequently and efficiently.

On finding inspiration: Maybe the question should be what doesn’t inspire me because everything can and does. How to hone that in through the Carve brand filter is more nuanced. The outdoors, exploring new cities and looking at what people wear in their everyday lives are key things that inspire me. Additionally, seeing how capable women are inspires me to design for them every day.

▲

UWE KIPPSCHNIEDER & JOHANNA CZEPALLA CLOSED DENIM DESIGNERS/DEVELOPERS

On F/W 23-24 trends, Uwe Kippschnieder: The easiness of the late ’90s is one of the key drivers for denim at the moment, including loose silhouettes, wide legs, dropped waistlines and a long-slung rise. Back pockets are getting even bigger, and worker details are still important.

For men, the new Closed fit Springdale is one of our styles trending the most. It’s an easy skate cut with a wider leg and a casual, laid-back attitude. Our Blomberg style—a single-pleated chino hybrid silhouette—is also doing well.

Johanna Czepalla: For women, we still see a shift from high waists to a lower waistline due to the Y2K trend, but now, with a simple and elevated straight leg. For women, denim skirts are getting super important, both short and full-length.

On balancing sustainability and design, U.K.: Sustainability has always been relevant for Closed, especially our denim. Many of our partners are worldrenowned for their sustainable denim innovations, from eco-friendly materials to low impact washing techniques. In fact, we developed Closed’s eco-denim line, A Better Blue, with our partners in 2018 to save water, chemicals and electricity. Additionally, we always aim to create long-lasting pieces. For the design process that means constantly seeking innovations, new techniques and new qualities. Every season, we question ourselves to see whether certain processes are still needed or can be improved. That implies looking at our existing styles and qualities.

On what I want to see more of from the denim industry, J.C.: The most important point is that the denim industry is becoming more transparent. Brands, fabric mills, manufacturers

and laundries are constantly working together. A shift is already happening, but there is still plenty of room for improvement.

On finding inspiration, J.C.: Traveling is always an inspiration—especially after the lockdowns—because you can see different cities and catch their vibes. I guess that’s one of the reasons why we were inspired by the young and cool skateboarding vibe of the ’90s for our fall/winter collections. This carefree and laid-back attitude, self-expression and individuality almost embody an antifashion that has become fashion.

BACK POCKETS ARE GETTING EVEN BIGGER, AND WORKER DETAILS ARE STILL IMPORTANT.”

—UWE KIPPSCHNEIDER

THE ’90S ARE BACK IN A BIG WAY WITH VERY LOOSE-FITTING JEANS...”

—CAROLIN LOOSE

MARK PETERS NYDJ, DIRECTOR OF CONSUMER EXPERIENCE ESTELLE DAHAN NYDJ,

VP OF DESIGNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR

On F/W 23-24 trends, Mark Peters: We will emphasize tailored and flattering bottom silhouettes for the fall and winter seasons, including wide leg, high waist straight and slim fits. Cargo details will be a prominent trend this year that we will showcase throughout the collection.

Additionally, we just launched our new seamless jeans, Le Silhouette jean, with a compression fit that smooths every curve without outseams to achieve a

second skin look and flawless silhouette. Le Silhouette jean will be available in several slim fits throughout the year. Our key trend fabrics will be faux leather, velveteen and corduroy. The collection’s palette will feature rich jewel tones and traditional favorites like gray. We will also introduce a lightweight denim capsule with high-rise, wide-leg pants and denim shirts for the holidays.

On balancing sustainability and design, Estelle Dahan: We factor in sustainability when we decide on the quality and textures of the fabrics we use for the season, always prioritizing sustainable fabrics and materials produced with sustainable practices. We also strongly consider the most sustainable resources and methods used in the dyeing process, which helps reduce water consumption.

On what I want to see more of from the denim industry, M.P.: It would be nice to see more sustainable production methods and eco-friendly fabrics in the industry. I also believe that recycling materials will gain more traction as the industry considers an uptick in circularity and overall carbon footprint reduction.

On finding inspiration, E.D.: Women’s lifestyles and curves are always top of mind at NYDJ, especially when

considering new denim technologies. Her lifestyle and activities are important factors since style, fit and comfort are at the forefront of our design ethics. Whether she’s running errands, gardening or going out with the family or for date night, our sophisticated, classic and diverse woman is our muse that we keep in mind with every design. We start the design process every season by choosing a specific global location or travel destination that inspires the look and feel we want the collection to capture. From there, we create mood boards and source inspirational elements from that area, influencing our silhouettes, design details, prints, fabrics and textures.

ROB SZENYERI

AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS, SVP, MERCHANDISING MEN’S AND AE77

On F/W 23-24 trends: We are excited about several trends, including higher rises, wider leg shapes, classic fits, straight legs, workwear details and gender-inclusive sizing. Gender-inclusive sizing is an important aspect of AE77, a premium denim brand from American Eagle for men and women inspired by the convergence of artistic vision and a planet-first mindset.

▲

OUR KEY TREND FABRICS WILL BE FAUX LEATHER, VELVETEEN AND CORDUROY.”

—MARK PETERS

NYDJ

CÜNEYT YAVUZ, MAVI CEO

On F/W 23-24 trends: We are in the age of denim on denim—an era where denim is used across all categories, including jackets, overshirts, vests and skirts. Trend highlights for F/W 23-24 include utility and workwear, featured in our new denim cargos, jackets and shirts with oversized pockets, and modernized in our non-denim cargo twills with carpenter details.

For women, we launched Recycled Blue, a new jeans collection that incorporates Tencel with Refibra technology. The technology gives a second life to pre- and post-consumer cotton textiles—which would otherwise be sent to landfills or incinerated—by upcycling them. The closed-loop process uses 95 percent less water to produce than conventional cotton, resulting in jeans that have a vintage look with a soft hand.

For men, we debuted the London fit, highlighting the loose tapered trend.

A new chino fit with a more universal appeal, Milton, reflects the casual smart trend, while utility and workwear are also found in men’s in the new Sam cargo style. Additionally, our Steve Athletic fit returns with expanded comfort fabrics and wash options.

On balancing sustainability and design: Drawing from our belief that the best denim is sustainable denim, we aim to inspire the industry with innovative products with low environmental impact by embracing the circular economy model. We recognize that every step and action we take will bring about massive transformations, which is why we focus on every aspect of the value chain, from the farmer to the end consumer. We start with responsible raw material sourcing and production, invest heavily in research and development and product development processes and identify innovation partnerships to shape the future of sustainable fashion. ●

On balancing sustainability and design: In 2020, we launched our Real Good label, which is apparel and jeans made with sustainability and the planet top of mind. Our Real Good jeans are sustainably manufactured and made in factories and mills that meet our Water Leadership Program—a program launched in 2017 that sets expectations for our factories on wastewater, water reduction, water recycling and chemical management standards. Additionally, the AE77 collection is focused on sustainable practices and reducing environmental impact. We use organic cotton, green chemistry, responsibly sourced trims and components and traceable practices.

On what I want to see more of from the denim industry: A return to more authentic details in classic jeans that never go out of style. At American Eagle, we love to reinvent iconic styles through the evolution of fabric and wash. Like our approach, I think you’ll also see more brands utilizing sustainable practices.

On finding inspiration: We are a brand rooted in authenticity and inspired by heritage, and we believe it’s important to keep the vintage details from the 1950s and ’60s alive through modern styling and shapes. We are all about innovation and discovering new ideas that we can apply to our broad assortment to create the best and most comfortable jeans possible.

WE ARE IN THE AGE OF DENIN ON DENIM—AN ERA WHERE DENIM IS USED ACROSS CATEGORIES.”

—CÜNEYT YAVUZ

SUMMER FARE

BRANDS, RETAILERS AND CONSUMERS

LOOK BEYOND THE BASIC 5-POCKET JEAN TO BUILD OUT A DENIM WARDROBE.

BY VICKI M. YOUNG

WHEN THE DECADE-LONG grip that skinny jeans had on consumers was finally released during the pandemic, it created an opportunity for brands to bring forward classic but forgotten fits. Consumers eased back into staples like bootcut, slim and straight, while Gen Z found novelty and newness in wide and slouchy styles.►This cadence of fresh denim is trickling beyond the basic 5-pocket jean this summer, allowing consumers to better express their personal style. ► Interest in Y2K-era fashion is kindling demand for denim miniskirts and maxiskirts in both indigo and Barbiecore pops of pink. Jean shirts and dresses are a mainstay in the Western trend. Denim blazers à la Giorgio Armani and Saint Laurent speak to consumers pursuing the “quiet luxury” aesthetic spurred by HBO’s family drama “Succession.” Meanwhile, jean jackets have become the go-to item in Taylor Swift and Harry Style fandoms to DIY with patches and embellishments that nod to their songs or eras.

Underpinning the various ways that fashion is embracing denim is its versatility. That quality is especially important to consumers who are increasingly thinking about the cost per wear of the garments they purchase.

“Denim is one of the most diverse materials in the fashion business and can be dressed up and down. It stretches from workwear to skate to street to luxury and that is reflected in the way the styles in denim appear and how the material is being applied and treated,” said Herbert Hofmann, Highsnobiety vice president, creative and buying. “It’s a durable and easy-to-wear material so customers like its comfort and usually also the price point.”

Known for having a pulse on what’s next in fashion, Hofmann said Highsnobiety is anticipating a shift away from Y2K. The Berlin-based e-tailer is betting on denim shirting and shorts to fill the summer gap.

“We haven’t seen styles like cut jeans with fringes last summer so much, but this season will be its big return,” he said. “Let’s see if people want to buy it already cut or make their own at home from an old long pair like [past generations.]”

He added that Highsnobiety did “bigger buys” on denim and its variations the past two seasons, but then pulled back slightly this season because the company wanted to “move on from the Y2K wave.” Still, examples of the Y2K’s influence on denim include looks from Glenn Marten, the creative director of Diesel. Hofmann noted that the Italian denim brand is translating the creativity it puts into its jeans to other items like swimwear with denim prints and motifs. “They also put a lot of work and layers into their denim caps,” he said.

Other brands on Highsnobiety’s radar include Acne Studio, which Hofmann said is using an “overly cute cat print” to push the denim trend forward, and Prada, which “did a great job with making shirts, dresses and shorts chic.”

Fashion statements are made with denim in Good American’s collection. The brand’s soft stretch indigo midi and mini dresses are made from compression stretch denim that smooths, sculpts, and shapes curves. Jean shorts are another major category this season for Good American, especially ’90-inspired styles that are shredded, ripped and have raw hems.

Lower rises and coordinates permeate AG’s collection this spring and summer. “Undertones of Y2K” is driving demand for AG’s Remy skirt, a low-slung mini inspired by the aughts, said John Rossell, AG Jeans’ head of marketing and creative.

“We’ve also seen the excitement around our new Alanna cropped jacket that pairs back to the Remy skirt. It’s a fresh, sans-collar take on the Trucker that ac-

centuates the neckline and is really playful and versatile, changing the mood depending on the choice of top paired underneath,” he said. Both styles are offered in AG’s Vapor Wash cleaning process that combines laser, nanobubble and ozone technology to save water and energy and eliminate chemicals.

The brand’s new relaxed slim short, the Becke, is also getting a warm reception from consumers. “The low-rise trend is likely to thank for that,” Rossell said. “It’s no surprise that it’s a current customer favorite since it’s so easy to dress up or down with a tank or a button-up shirt.”

He added that white denim and lighter colors have also been popular this season, especially for pieces like the Robyn Trucker jacket. “Customers love the feminine fit as it pairs easily with jeans, shorts, skirts and dresses,” Rossell said.

Betty Madden, Lee’s global vice president of design, said denim skirts are having a big moment this season, especially those that are midi-length and have a late ’90s feel. The brand taps into that nostalgia with a split denim midi skirt and the Rider shirt dress.

“Both have a touch of stretch and that worn-in feel in a lighter-weight denim,” she said. “They’re great options that you can wear just about anywhere.”

Other options offered by Lee are the short Union-All—a summer-friendly take on the heritage style from 1913—and the short Bib Overall in lighter fabrics. The latter is available in an ecru carpenter version and a shredded indigo version

Unfinished hems added a bohemian feel to Carve Designs’ denim assortment. The brand’s organic cotton denim cutoff skirt is “perfect for running errands or grabbing lunch—a must have for the warmer months,” said Jennifer Hinton, Carve co-founder.

Hudson expects to see growth in more leg-barring categories. “As the weather warms, we find that women are coming to Hudson in search of more than the traditional jean and jean short and we have adapted to this demand by growing our short, dress and skirt assortment,” said Ben Taverniti, Hudson Jeans’ design and creative director.

A key item is the Freya Shaker short, a new style that offers a wider leg than what Hudson has done before. He said Hudson’s high-rise reconstructed skirt has been a top seller, and the brand continues to offer the style in new washes each season.

The utility trend is being adapted by non-jean categories as well. The brand introduced a reconstructed cargo dress in indigo. Taverniti said Hudson’s cargo styles “continue to be incredibly popular.”

While Hudson leans into the ongoing demand for pink with two jean styles, it also paid attention to interest in clay, a tangerine orange hue, and classic white.

Also showing a robust lineup of white denim this season is Lucky Brand. “White denim has been a seasonal fashion staple for decades, but this season it’s taking on a fresh new twist, inspired by the ’90s and Y2K nostalgia,” said Tamara Reynolds, Lucky Brand’s vice president of denim.

Reynolds said the trend is about embracing the carefree spirit of the ’90s and the unbridled energy of the Y2K era. “With a focus on inclusivity and gender-neutral fashion, this new take is about embracing the freedom to wear what you want, how you want—that’s the beauty of a white canvas,” she said. ●

PREVIOUS PAGES: GOOD

AMERICAN DRESS (LEFT), DIESEL TOP (RIGHT); THIS PAGE: AG JEANS

“DENIM IS ONE OF THE MOST DIVERSE MATERIALS IN THE FASHION BUSINESS AND CAN BE DRESSED UP AND DOWN.”

—HERBERT HOFMANN, HIGHSNOBIETY

HEAT

JEANS IN

FIBER TECHNOLOGIES AND ENGINEERED WEAVES ARE KEEPING CONSUMERS COOL IN DENIM THIS SUMMER.

BY ALEX HARRELL

THE FIRST DAY of summer is June 21, but seasonal jeans have been on the minds of brands and retailers for months. ► In April, Good American bowed “weightless denim,” a collection of ultra-soft and airy jumpsuits, jeans, shirts and shorts made with cotton and lyocell. The brand describes the collection as their lightest jeans yet. Madewell’s “summer denim drop” in May offered wide-leg cotton and Tencel jeans, lowslung cargos made with hemp, Tencel and cotton, and white and ecru denim for a light and bright look. More recently, direct-to-consumer brand Mott & Bow has been touting 10 oz. soft twill denim jeans for men as the “jeans for 90-degree heat.” ► Demand for bottoms that can be worn comfortably during sweltering summer months—or even better, year-round—has never been greater. Consumers’ growing awareness of technical fabrics and their desire to do more with less, coupled with record-breaking high temperatures have put a spotlight on garments that seamlessly fit into their lives no matter the season. ► However, fabric weight, fiber composition and the weave of the fabric all play a large role in what makes a jean warm-weather friendly.

gram. Lycra Dual Comfort creates comfortable, soft stretch fabrics with durable shape retention and cool comfort by transporting moisture to the outside of the fabric. These performance attributes come from Lycra T400 Ecomade, a stretch fiber that contains 50 percent recycled content.

“It’s quite an important fiber technology that the majority of the brands put in their fiber matrix,” said Ebru Ozaydin, The Lycra Company’s strategic marketing director of denim and ready-to-wear. “It’s a good option to replace virgin materials.”

Lycra’s Coolmax technology is synonymous with cooling performance, but the addition of Ecomade versions further complements the denim industry’s focus on circularity. The moisture-wicking technology is made with 100 percent post-consumer waste like recycled PET bottles in one version and 100 percent pre-consumer textile waste in another.

The latter is made from factory floor scraps or unused fibers, resulting in chips

NATURAL COMFORT

Cotton’s inherent breathability makes it the natural choice for hot days. Cotton Incorporated’s CottonWorks program highlights the ways is helps the wearer keep cool.

“Who wants to wear 16 oz. denim in the summertime? There are all kinds of really great things you can do with lighter weight constructions in denim that isn’t necessarily your traditional 3x1 right-hand twill,” said Yvonne Johnson, director of product development for Cotton Incorporated.

Cotton Incorporated’s TransDry technology is a patented, moisture management application that allows fabrics to wick perspiration while maintaining the comfort of cotton. Its Natural Stretch concept is a mechanical stretch technology designed for 100 percent cotton woven fabrics to provide comfortable stretch and softness without the use of any synthetic spandex.

“This is the sweet spot—cotton can perform just like any other fiber,” said Ryan Vulcan, Cotton Incorporated’s associate director of corporate communications.

“When you talk about the marketability of different products, we often see [that] cotton is always the comparison. You want to be like cotton. And why is that? Because we’re the brand standard.”

“People don’t want to wear synthetic things in the summertime, especially when it sticks to the body,” said Tuncay Kılıçkan, Lenzing Fibers head of global business development, denim.

The same cooling properties that make Lenzing’s Tencel popular in the home textile category also make it a popular choice for jeans. The lyocell cellulosic fibers absorb moisture to help the wearer feel cool and dry. “Tencel has a cooling effect naturally and it has twice as much absorbency of moisture compared to cotton,” Kılıçkan said.

Tencel is a common blending partner, but denim mills are growing their use of the fiber as an alternative to virgin cotton. In some cases, they’re making 100 percent Tencel fabrics. Lenzing presented Zero Cotton and Zero Virgin Cotton fabrics from 15 global mills including Bossa, DNM, Iskur, Saitex and more at Kingpins Amsterdam in April. While zero

cotton denim was a niche concept a few years ago, Kılıçkan said it should soon be scalable and accessible.

Lighter fabrics with a soft drape are always a core part of Soorty’s collection for the spring and summer seasons. Looser constructions with open weaves feel lighter, while natural fibers offer water absorption properties and quick drying times.

Achieving lightweight fabrics and maintaining denim’s unique character are challenging, however.

“If we develop lightweight denims with very fine yarns, we don’t usually get the washed, worn-in effects. We prefer to keep the authenticity and look of jeans, and here the challenge starts,” said Alper Cataloglu, Soorty’s senior product development manager. “It’s never easy to develop lighter-weight fabrics while keeping the same visuals as an authentic pair of jeans.”

Enter synthetics. Cataloglu said most of the time Soorty uses synthetic fiber cooling technologies in fabrics because the cooling performance does not get affected by wash processes.

“We do work on sustainable options on all developments; for synthetic fibers, we try to shift to recycled material bases,” he said. “On the other hand, we try to reduce the use of synthetic fibers and replace them with man-made cellulosic fiber options such as Tencel, viscose or even recycled versions of them.”

CIRCULAR COMFORT

Pakistani mill Siddiqsons experiments with yarn twists to make softer fabrics and use more open weaves and cotton products for the summer season. “Everybody wants something a little bit lighter and more comfortable and more flowing during the summer months. If you go back to the old fashion, even the Japanese denim, they’re pretty open constructions,” said Scott Gress, Siddiqsons president of North American sales and marketing.

Siddiqsons also utilizes Lycra Dual Comfort technology for moisture management and shape retention.

The Lycra Company is working to change the negative perception of synthetics by upgrading proven technologies with recycled ingredients through its Ecomade pro-

that use 29 percent lower emissions compared to chips used to make virgin fibers, Ozaydin said.

Naveena Denim Mills is meeting consumer demand for sustainable performance by using Coolmax Ecomade with pre-consumer textile waste.

“For spring and summer, we are working on innovative technologies that keep end-users cool and comfortable without sacrificing the denim look they look for,” said Berke Aydemir, Naveena Denim Mills’ head of R&D and technical sales. “Designed specifically for use during these months, these fabrics are lighter, mixed with smart fibers or have temperature regulation or moisture-wicking properties”

Aydemir added that the Pakistani mill is also using “creative engineering and weaving solutions” to offer lighter and more breathable fabrics. The mill’s Edges collection addresses the market’s demand for looser and drapey jeans.

WE DRAW INSPIRATION FROM NATURE AND THE QUALITY OF MATERIALS GROWN IN THEIR NATURAL HABITAT, JUST AS CASHMERE THRIVES IN COLDER CLIMATES.”

—TIM HUESEMANN, PANTHER DENIM

LEFT: LASER ETCHED DENIM BY COTTON INCORPORATED FABRICAST COLLECTION; BELOW: THE LYCRA COMPANY

ENGINEERED ENHANCEMENTS

Denim mills are also using their expertise in weaving and fibers to develop fabrics with moisture management and temperature-regulating properties.

Breathable natural fibers like cotton, linen and hemp are first in line in AGI Denim’s warm-weather fabrics. However, the Karachi-based B Corp also incorporates Halo technology, a weaving technique inspired by home insulation that keeps the wearer warm in cold weather and cool in hot weather.

“With the Halo technology, our yarns have innovative cross sections that help create fabric with high drape and improved comfort,” said Ali Tekin, AGI Denim R&D director. “We created air space in the core of the yarn that helps insulation. It keeps cool in warm weather conditions and allows maximum breathability.”

Creating fabrics with more air space means the garments will be looser with a more open weave. The primary method for creating a more comfortable product structure is to increase the air permeability, he added.

Abaca yarn, derived from natural leaf fiber, is used by Panther Denim to help with temperature regulation. It also possesses natural odor-resistant properties, making it an ideal choice for hot and humid weather conditions.

“The plant that produces these fibers is grown in South Asia,” said Tim Huesemann, Panther Denim director and shareholder. “We draw inspiration from nature and the quality of materials grown in their natural habitat, just as cashmere thrives in colder climates.”

That focus on the environment also led Panther to explore circular solutions. The China-based mill recently developed a cooling technology that utilizes a specialty-engineered hollow fiber made from recycled materials.

“This innovative design significantly reduces the weight of our fabrics while also providing year-round comfort, remaining cool in the summer and warm

in the winter,” Huesemann said. “We will combine this fabric with recycled cotton and biodegradable elastane, as we always strive to provide a variety of sustainable options that cater to the diverse needs of our customers.”

Twin Dragon Marketing Inc.’s (TDMI) solution for seasonless denim is Atmos, a fabric that utilizes a Japanese hollow fiber that cools the wearer by allowing airflow and forming a thermal barrier that shields it from the outside heat. “The approximate 30 percent hollowness helps to keep the wearer airy in the summer by allowing air to flow while also creating a thermal barrier from warmer outside temps,” said Stephanie Poon, TDMI director of marketing and merchandising.

The fiber is made from 100 percent recycled polyester and can be blended with other eco-friendly fibers like lyocell to create sustainable jeans. Atmos fabrics also don’t need to be made with looser or open weaves due to the nature of the hollow fiber. Poon said the construction of the fiber facilitates a spongy and soft feel, rendering denim that looks substantial but feels light to the touch.

“We are on a journey to create fabrics that have not just functionality but longevity across many seasons,” Poon said. ●

LEFT: SOORTY; BELOW: TWIN DRAGON

FIBER AND DYE INNOVATIONS ARE HELPING JEANS

BY ANGELA

DARK

as a living fabric that gains character with wear. Fades are a form of currency among denim heads. Vintage denim’s worn-in appearance is what makes it covetable to collectors and is the impetus behind the wash and finishing technologies brands use to

There is consumer demand for jeans that retain their

When workplaces started to reopen in 2021, employees returned dressed in jeans, albeit in looser and more relaxed fits than their pre-pandemic skinnies. Denim’s inherent versatility reflected their new hybrid work schedules. Cut to two years later, more CEOs are backtracking on remote working and traditional corporate culture is crawling back. Jeans are part of the workplace landscape but faded and distressed styles are not.

Instead, consumers are turning to dark indigo and black jeans as alternatives to traditional slacks. The clean and polished bottoms are dressed-up with blouses, blazers and sport jackets. The dark denim trend is being perpetuated on the runway as well with designers like Maison Kitsune, Schiaparelli and Loro Piana using dark indigo denim as a palette cleanser from the harsh-look-

“There’s a decent number of people who [enjoy wearing] their denim with a clean or rinse look, and they are happy with it. Therefore, the worn-in look is not their style. They like a more dress-up look,” said Tuncay Kılıçkan, Lenzing’s head of global business development for denim. “It’s a borderline between formal and sportswear—a different interpretation of wearing sneakers

There’s also the customer that wants their purchases to look new for as long as possible. If they’re spending $200 on a black jean, they expect it to look like the black jean even after laundry day.

“Consumers are increasingly looking for more sustainable and timeless jeans that preserve their colors and quality,” said Cüneyt Yavuz, Mavi’s CEO. “The desire for clean and simple jeans and the need for styles that consumers can easily combine to create different looks are the among the factors that drive the demand for dark wash and black denim.”

Launching this fall, Mavi’s Pro Dark Tech, features a technology that preserves the dark indigo color. “In every wash cycle at home, denim generally changes in tone and gains a more personal look with different effects depending on how often and where it is worn,” Yavuz said. “The colorfastness technology of Pro Dark Tech ensures that the color of the denim is not affected by use and care.”

The line is designed exclusively for men and offers jeans and denim jackets made with recycled polyester and BCI cotton for a head-to-toe look. Pro Dark Tech builds on Mavi’s existing dark denim offerings like Double Black, a range of men’s and women’s black denim jeans, jackets, shorts and skirt that have ranked among the brand’s most popular styles.

Black denim, in general, is pitched by mills and brands as being seasonless. Both black and gray denim have claimed a large share in recent spring and summer seasons.

Mavi also touts the sustainable benefits of its Pro Dark Tech collection. “Since they undergo fewer washing processes due to their dark colors, these products consume less water and energy during production. And the long-lasting color translates into longer-lasting products for the customer,” Yavuz said.

Color-fast fabrics decrease apparel production costs, as they do not need a washing. “A quick rinse is enough,”

JEANS RETAIN THEIR OFFICE-FRIENDLY LOOK.

ART

said Berke Aydemir, Naveena Denim Mills’ head of R&D and technical sales.

The Pakistani mill launched Solido, a collection of black and “indigo-looking” navy fabrics to its line this year. Naveena uses a special dye technique that guarantees no color change after 20-plus home laundering with excellent color fastness. The fabrics are available as a rigid 100 percent cotton construction and a comfort stretch with one percent elastane.

“We observe that there is an increasing audience for smart casual looks, which include vintage looks but also no-fade,” Aydemir said. “We had very good reactions and follow-up from many clients.”

There’s a science behind denim with long-lasting color, and the chemistry is increasingly sustainable.

Chemical manufacturer Archroma’s Stay Dark system provides better fastness for black and navy shades compared to regular black denim or indigo-based denim fabrics. Stay Dark enhances fabric color Wresistance to repeated home laundering and provides “significant” life cycle savings in energy and CO2 emissions during consumer use. The product has received the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute’s gold level material health certificate.

Sustainability is part of Lenzing’s messaging for Tencel Modal with Indigo technology, a product that adds indigo pigment during the finer production process. It won the ITMF Innovation Award in 2022.

Used by Gap, NYDJ, NA-KD, Otto and more, Kılıçkan said the fiber is a solution to the typical rubbing fastness of conventional indigo. It also eliminates the need for further dyeing, which saves on chemicals, water and energy.

Though Tencel Modal with Indigo technology is a solution for long-lasting color, the color is not permanent. Kılıçkan said it can be washed down with ozone, chemical bleach, enzyme and other processes, meaning brands can put their creative touch on jeans and it will last.

“The advantage is the final look of the product is stable against domestic home laundry whereas conventional jeans carry on discharging indigo which results with a different look than the one of the purchase,” he said.

Lenzing Modal and Repreve recycled polyester are key ingredients in NYDJ’s IndigoLast and BlackLast product lines that retain color for at least 30 home laundries, though Estelle Dahan, NYDJ’s VP of design, said that’s on the conservative side. “We suggest machine washing the jeans in cold water, which traps the dye inside the fabric. This, in turn, helps prevent color bleeding,” she said.

“Our consumers tend to lean toward a very classic, sophisticated look,” she said. “Because of this preference, they appreciate the no-fading benefit of our IndigoLast and BlackLast denim. I would say there’s a high demand for [no-fade jeans].”

BlackLast launched in July 2020; IndigoLast followed in January 2023. The product lines achieve their color fastness because both components are fiber dyed before they are spun together. This fiber dye is more resistant to color fading.

Both offer a variety of fits spanning slim bootcut, skinny, straight and more. The dye technology is even applied to a few footwear styles with denim uppers.

The collections, Dahan said, appeal to NYDJ’s consumers who “may want jeans that look both clean and sophisticated for the office, paired with a blazer and flats; or dressier jeans for evening, paired with a trendy top and heels.”

“This denim collection with lasting color intensity can go either way, depending on the outfit pairings,” she added. “Plus, it’s really a day-to-night option due to the wearability of its eco-friendly, soft fabric.” ●

THE SUSTAINABLE WAYS TO ACHIEVE

BY ANGELA

DIRTY

ACHIEVE Y2K-INSPIRED DIRTY WASHES. VELASQUEZ

TALK

► Whether you call it “vintage tint” like New Jersey-based BPD Washhouse, “dirty look” like Italian chemical company Officina39, or “dirty, smokey or trashed” like Turkey’s Isko, it’s safe to say that gritty, apocalyptic washes are back. ► Blumarine, R13, Foo and Foo, Acne Studios and Diesel are among the brands to inject dirty-looking denim into their recent collections. Defined by its earthy tint, vintage fades and dull appearance, the edgy look fits in with Gen Z-oriented trends from Y2K and grunge to moto. The wash is at home on items that haven’t been popular in nearly 20 years, including low-slung jeans and midriffbaring miniskirts. ► “These types of washes were extremely in vogue in the 2000s, especially with Italian brands such as Diesel,” said Alice Tonello, R&D and marketing manager for Italian machinery company Tonello.► She said Diesel developed two models with this type of wash, the 736 with a reddish look, which was dirtied using wall dyes, such as ferrous oxide, and the 738, a second style with an intense orange color. “Later [Diesel] switched to using mineral pigments, and later, even to this day, colored mineral pigments to achieve the same effect,” Tonello said. “This wash made the fortune of brands such as Diesel.”

Though trendy, Paolo Gnutti, CEO of PG and the creative director of Isko Luxury by PG, likens the existence of dirty denim to the first appearance of chino pants in the mid 1800s when an English army officer in India was trying to hide in the dust. To dye the chinos, the officer mixed spices and coffee to create shades that went from sand to ochre, according to Gnutti.

Similarly, the first industrial dirty effect in the 2000s involved the use of natural pumice stones from mountainous Greek or Turkish quarries and dye pigments. “This kind of technique, unfortunately, had a high environmental impact on residual sludge and chemicals that are difficult to remove and dispose,” he said.

“Back in the 2000s the aesthetic results were much more important than their potentially unsustainable consequences,” said Andrea Venier, Officina39 managing director, adding that the level of awareness among suppliers, brands and consumers was “totally different from what data and technology allow us to do now.”

Several methods were used to achieve the dirty look at the height of their popularity in the early 2000s.

“The traditional way that brands achieved the look back in the 2000s was by exhaustion, adding direct dyestuffs together with salt, increasing the temperature of the water up to 50-60ºC, and running the machine for 10-15 minutes,” said Amor Cardona, member of Jeanologia’s BrainBox team. “After this time, bath water with remaining dyestuff and salt was drained. Then, rinses were done to eliminate the chemical products remaining on garments.”

Other times the garments were sanded by hand and then treated with pumice stone to get the stone effect. Chlorine and permanganate were used for bleaching and localized corrosion. Finally, pigments or reactive dyes were used for over-dyeing or even double-dye processes.

What they all have in common, according to Ivan Manzaneda, Isko’s R&D lead, is their environmental impact, “starting

from the huge amount of water consumption to finish one garment, to the hazardous chemicals or the total number of compounds needed in the whole process.”

“In general, these industrial processes were characterized by the use of products that were chemically hazardous to the environment or that were difficult to dispose of,” Venier said.

The human impact of these techniques is not to be overlooked. The high number of steps, risky chemical applications and manual operations puts workers in danger. Potassium permanganate and sanding processes result in “considerable harm” to the workers who handle it, he said. Meanwhile, poor management of toxic substances poses a risk of water pollution, potentially affecting many more people and aquatic life.

“Denim manufacturers are increasingly moving toward sustainability,” Gnutti added. “However, the fact remains that in terms of washing, there are still some limitations in the look of a 100 percent sustainable wash. There’s a long road ahead, but it is the right one and the denim sector is constantly working to improve it day by day, season by season.”

SUSTAINABLE ALTERNATIVES

Dirty denim is shedding its reputation, however. Brands can replace many traditional processes by eliminating stones, certain chemicals and local applications, and reducing the total water to finish a garment. Some manual applications and steps are also reducing the impact on workers.

THE DENIM INDUSTRY has made strides in cleaning up its wasteful ways, but one fashion trend is dragging it back to its dirtier past.

Gnutti said innovation in the last decade has revolutionized the market by almost completely replacing natural pumice stone with various types of synthetic stones made of rubber or recycled plastic. Depending on the weight and type of fabric, he said alternative materials can fully replace natural stone in terms of the final look.

“Today this type of effect can be done more responsibly by using direct dyes or colored mineral pigments directly in the bath. It is done at lower temperatures and is very short, 5-10 minutes maximum,” Tonello said.

Brands can also achieve the look through atomization with Tonello’s Core system, a misting finishing process garment that allows maximum dye optimization and significant water savings. “This automatic system, operated entirely by the machine, can produce a fine mist inside the washing machine drum, resulting in uniform or contrasting effects on the

garments,” she said.

Jeanologia’s eFlow technology, which uses nanobubbles of air instead of using water as a transport of the dyestuffs to the garments, is another way to apply dyestuff. The technology uses minimal quantity of water, product and energy with zero discharge, achieving savings 95 percent of water, 90 percent of chemicals and 40 percent of energy.

“With eFlow no residue is obtained, neither of contaminated water nor of chemicals, obtaining the same result as with tinted or dirty by exhaustion but in an environmentally friendly and efficient way, saving costs to the industry,” Cardona said.

“With eFlow no residue is obtained, neither of contaminated water nor of chemicals, obtaining the same result as with tinted or dirty by exhaustion but in an environmentally friendly and efficient way, saving costs to the industry,” Cardona said. Isko’s mineral dyes are one option, he

added. “They are created with natural dyestuffs—not oil-based or synthetics— coming right from the earth.” In addition, by working with suppliers that have a recycling water system like Isko’s Creative Room Hub in London, Manzaneda said they can develop 100 percent of their garments using recycled water, reducing the waste in the development stage.

Soko’s Easy Wave dyeing method is another solution, according to Matteo Urbini, managing director of the Italian chemical company. “Pigments and resins previously used were more complicated to get treated,” he said.

Easy Wave is a dyeing auxiliary that creates a look like cold pigment dyeing without using any pigments and without the inconvenience of using pigments. The look is a surface dyeing with lighter seams, a good hand feel and good fastness.

Officina39’s goal is to match the dirty vintage looks of the 2000s with ethical, honest, transparent, and socially responsible alternatives.

The company utilizes Aqualess Mission, its combination of technologies allowing garment laundry processes to use 75 percent less water. Aqualess Aged is used in combination with Aqualess Activator to create the stone effect and replace the pumice stone treatment. Oz-One Powder and Ind/J Remover are applied locally to replace the use of potassium permanganate and chlorine on denim and obtain a bleached and distressed vintage look in an eco-friendly way.

Officina39’s One Step Process can combine several of these processes at the same time, saving time, energy, space and water. “That means that a raw garment enters the machine and a garment with a basic vintage effect comes out ready to be dried, already treated, bleached and softened,” Venier said.

For over-dyeing Officina39 uses Recycrom Dirty, a patented dyestuff derived from textile waste, which the company claims is one of the most sustainable dye technologies currently available on the market.

FADE IN

Interest in vintage-looking denim and Y2K styling—from both brands and consumers—is behind the resurgence of dirty washes. The grungy effect is brand new to Gen Z consumers who’ve unearthed wide, boot cut, flare fits and more in their post-pandemic quest to ditch skinny jeans. However, full-on dirty tints are still an extreme in the mainstream market, said Bill Curtin, BPD Washhouse owner. He said the look is “still a few seasons away” from being a full-blown trend.

“Certain customers who have a younger consumer target or more grunge aesthetic to their range have requested development around these dirty and trashed looks,” said Melissa Clement, Isko head of product development.

Tonello added that the effect has always been in fashion from the 2000s onward. “It has never been the star but has always maintained its slice in the collections of many brands,” she said. “Even today it is still used with more or less intensity— sometimes even without being so clearly discernible.”

The wash underscores consumers’ unwavering fascination with nostalgic fashion. Venier said “recreating the worn and yellowed parts that characterize a naturally used garment” is “really on trend now.”

“But today, the interest is also in being able to achieve this kind of bleached, distressed and worn look, while impacting as little as possible,” he said. “Our task is precisely to meet this need.” ●

THERE’S A LONG ROAD AHEAD, BUT IT IS THE RIGHT ONE AND THE DENIM SECTOR IS CONSTANTLY WORKING TO IMPROVE IT DAY BY DAY, SEASON BY SEASON.”

—PAOLO GNUTTI, PG DENIM

SOORTY LOOKS TO A HUMAN/AI— INTEGRATED FUTURE

While so many in the fashion industry are afraid of artificial intelligence, denim mill Soorty embraces it. The company recently presented a 50-piece collection of AI-generated garments at Kingpins called HumIAn. Here, Ebru Debbag, executive director, global sales and marketing, discusses how AI and humans can work together to improve the denim space, and how each side can improve the other.

RIVET: What role do you see AI playing in the industry?

Ebru Debbag: We will see more implementations of AI tools in our industry—not only designing collections but mirroring manufacturing processes, funneling consumer data into the supply chain, and waste reduction through curated product solutions enabling pre-sample market testing. We will use AI further to enhance our sustainable infrastructure for our customers’ specific needs and wants.

We were extremely pleased to launch our innovative AIgenerated denim collection in collaboration with trend forecaster and designer Volker Kettenis to emphasize the human value of working together with artificial intelligence. Industry stakeholders’ reactions were genuinely curious and excited. HumAIn unlocks undiscovered potentials, bringing forth purpose-driven designs made with responsible tools and takes consumers closer to a more sustainable future. The result showed the denim handprint and some pieces with loosely defined AI-imagined “boundaries.”

How is Soorty using technologies and sustainable alternatives to redesign products more responsibly?

E.D.: Our 3-pillar approach uses circular raw materials and our uniquely defined processes supported by infrastructure to seek sustainable alternatives— both in what is available and yet to be discovered. Our conceptual approach provides solutions to modern day challenges. For example, our Longevity

concept ensures longer use of jeans achieved with intentional selection of raw materials as well as unique design. Our third and foremost pillar is our people—not only our workforce but all stakeholders. We work in partnership with our supply chain, academia, our customers as well as the final customer. Most technology is available for all the industry, but how we implement it gives us the competitive edge.

How does Soorty’s “Design for Circularity” annual openhouse events bring circularity information and supplier connections to brands?

E.D.: We hold two SpaceD events annually and each event is themed around an innovative aspect of circularity with our stakeholders. Soorty is a vertical denim and jeans operation at scale, and our unique supply chain integrated circular design process brings all stakeholders together. Our business is complex and constantly evolving, thus

there is rarely time enough at trade shows and customer meetings to dive deep into the hard work behind ideas. Design for a purpose demands a collaborative approach. We must not only build the right content, but also dialogue with stakeholders so that circular design and manufacturing can become a collaborative effort and be reflected at the product level at scale. SpaceD events offer the time for attention to technicality and aesthetics to enjoy and learn about denim and jeans.

What are some of your latest CSR initiatives?

E.D.: Soorty’s strength lies in giving back and developing with its communities. There are multiple CSR projects on gender sensitivity, inclusivity, diversity and empowerment, with concentration on female workers and people with disabilities. Through the PRISM project, we

hire and train people with hearing and speech impairments to work in noise-intense areas. Soorty’s Premier League Women’s Cricket has been a great success in 2022. Another highlight is our organic cotton initiative, namely SOCI, where we work with over 1,000 farmers in Balochistan, providing micro finance opportunities, distributing organic seeds, training women and providing education for families. SOCI has expanded into the DOCH project, a Balochi word referring to traditional embroidery style, where we train women and provide embroidery making equipment. ■

“DESIGN FOR A PURPOSE DEMANDS A COLLABORATIVE APPROACH.”

THE ARCHETYPE

LEVI STRAUSS & CO. CELEBRATES A CENTURY

BY CHELSEA DOBROSIELSKI

THE ARCHETYPE

CENTURY AND A HALF OF RIVETED DENIM. DOBROSIELSKI

ILLED AS THE ANNIVERSARY of the Levi’s 501 jeans, May 20, 2023 marked 150 years since the denim giant and a Nevada tailor, Jacob Davis, received a patent for what they described as an “improvement in fastening pocket-openings.” ►“My invention relates to a fastening for pocket-openings, whereby the sewed seams are prevented from ripping or starting from frequent pressure or strain thereon; and it consists in the employment of a metal rivet or eyelet at each edge of the pocketopening, to prevent the ripping of the seam at those points,” Davis wrote. “The rivet or eyelet is so fastened in the seam as to bind the two parts of cloth which the seam unites together, so that it shall prevent the strain or pressure from coming upon the thread with which the seam is sewed.”

► The foundational patent would eventually lead to the development of Levi’s 501 jeans. A now-classic style, the 501 served as the blueprint for the jean industry, helping drive it from workwear to everywhere.

WORKWEAR ROOTS

According to Levi’s historian Tracey Panek, Davis developed the idea for riveted trousers while stitching up a pair of work pants. The design became such a hit, Davis had trouble keeping up with demand, Panek said. The tailor wrote to his fabric supplier, Levi Strauss & Co. (LS&Co.), and proposed they partner on a patent. Davis filed an application with the U.S. Patent Office on behalf of himself and the company in August 1972. Nine months later, it was approved. Levi’s began using the lot number 501 to denote its highest quality jeans 18 years later, in 1890.

“The 501 began as a simple work pant that evolved over time,” Panek said. “Laborers from miners to mechanics first adopted ‘waist overalls,” as they were called. Adverts boasted, ‘Cut Full, Honestly Made, Strong and Durable.’ Full cut meant roomy enough to be worn as a tough outer garment made of ‘XX’ denim, the strongest available. Features included a button fly, suspender buttons and a back cinch and patch.”

Levi’s copper-riveted waist overalls— made originally with duck canvas—went through a series of changes in the early 20th century. By 1901, the company had added a second back pocket—it started out with two front pockets, a watch pocket and a right back pocket— “likely” due to consumer requests or changes in men’s fashion, an LS&Co. timeline claims.

Based in San Francisco, Levi’s rose to prominence in part due to a massive local demand for workwear, Deirdre Clemente, a professor of history of at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, said. “An incredible distribution method” that bested its competitors allowed it to expand its reach further beyond the city, she added.

“What makes [Levi’s 501s] so interesting is that they’re born of their time,” Clemente said. “That garment is born of its time. It is the incarnation of this massive demographic, economic, industrial changes happening on the West Coast in the early 1900s.”

Profits, however, fell to an all-time low in 1918, prompting company leadership to

double down on durability, LS&Co. said. In 1922, it introduced belt loops to the overalls. The cinch remained, but some wearers began cutting it off to wear the pants with a belt. LS&Co. again attributed the update to changes in men’s fashion and the brand’s understanding of consumer demand. By 1925, the improved design had sent profits “skyrocketing,” LS&Co. said.

From the 1930s on, Levi’s 501 jeans became “synonymous” with cowboys, with actors in Hollywood Westerns and vacationers to dude ranches donning the item, Panek said. A 1934 advertisement enforced this association, telling consumers that “The overalls displayed here are genuine Levi’s worn by all cowboys.”

That same year, the company launched Lady Levi’s Lot 701 jeans. The silhouette featured a slim fit and higher waist than the 501. Later in 1936, Levi’s introduced its signature red tab to the right back pocket.

It’s during this period that Levi’s marketing team positions the company to slide into the alternative niche a couple decades later, Clemente said.

“The marketers say ‘There’s only so many jeans we can sell to farmers, so let’s sell them to women,’” she said. “’Let’s sell them to people who like rodeos. Let’s sell them to kids because kids are so horrible to their clothes.’ So this is the ’30s and ’40s setting up for the late ’40s and ’50s.”

During World War II, materials rationing forced Levi’s to make several changes, including using generic stock buttons and rivets, removing rivets from the watch pocket and crotch and painting on the company’s Arcuate symbol.

“GIs during World War II wore the 501 and a white t-shirt overseas when they weren’t in uniform,” Panek said. “On the home front, Rosies who riveted also adopted the 501, but wartime needs necessitated changes like removing the back cinch.”

After the war, Levi’s returned rivets to the watch pocket, but kept some of the recent changes, such as the removal of the cinch and crotch rivet. These tweaks, debuted in 1947, marked the end of the 501’s transition from waist overall to what Panek called the “modern, straight jean.

In honor of the 150th anniversary of Levi's® 501® jeans, YKK celebrates our companies’ continuing partnership and mutual commitment to leading apparel industry innovation.

A Partnership with History

The YKK® "two-prong" button system utilized on the 501® jeans lies at the heart of our over 125-year partnership with Levi Strauss & Co. It originated with Franklin S. McKenney in the late 19th century and was embraced by Universal Fasteners Inc., which evolved from McKenney’s company and joined the YKK family in 1987.

"The 'two-prong' button system and Levi's® 501® jeans represent our intertwined legacies and enduring commitments to excellence," said John Smith, President of YKK (U.S.A.) Inc.

YKK® Fastening Solutions

The original machines used to attach the two-prong tacks and buttons to the garment allowed operators to speed up button assembly by omitting hand tools. Ultimately, the currently used Model 02 machine was developed.

“The Model 02 machine is a simple machine that comes with several bene ts to both operators and customers,” said Tom Munns, Director of Field Technology Services at YKK (U.S.A.) Inc. “The two-prong fastener used results in less damage to garment material and keeps buttons from rotating. Additionally, incorporated safety features protect the operator.”

This fastening system was originally utilized for boots but later applied to apparel, displaying the power of two-prong to solve a variety of fastening and attaching challenges.

CULTURAL SYMBOL

Buoyed by Hollywood, blue jeans made the jump from workwear to casual wear in the decades that followed. In 1953, Marlon Brando donned 501 jeans and a leather jacket as the head of a motorcycle club in “The Wild One.” Two years later, “Rebel Without a Cause” cemented James Dean’s blue jeans, white tee and red jacket as a symbol of teenage cool.

Richard Thompson Ford, a professor of law at Stanford Law School, researched centuries of shifting fashion norms and

rules for his 2021 book “Dress Codes: How the Laws of Fashion Made History.” Once film became widespread, it played “a huge role” in the development of fashion, even starting in the early 20th century, he said.

“I think it’s pretty rare that film in and of itself invents a fashion trend,” Ford said. “The directors are reflecting something that they see in society. But it certainly spreads a fashion trend, and… ironically, it makes it less specific. So, if you started in “Rebel Without a Cause” with somebody wearing jeans, immediately it tells you this person’s countercultural and rebellious

and probably a little bit of trouble. But pretty quickly everyone’s wearing them because they want to look like James Dean and then it doesn’t tell you that anymore.”

By the 1960s, the 501 had become “the choice of youth and counterculture,” Panek said. Hippies cut open the hem to create bell bottoms. Blue jeans were a staple of the civil rights movement and Vietnam protests. Marilyn Monroe wore Levi’s in her final film, 1961’s “The Misfits,” while Bob Dylan donned a pair of 501s for the cover of his 1963 album “The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan.”

Clemente attributed Levi’s and denim’s post-WWII success to two factors: the emergence of alternative cultures in the postwar boom and the rise of comfort in the American wardrobe. “People had basically two genres of dress and that was stuff they could wear to the barbecue in the backyard and stuff they wore to the office,” she said. Though other brands emerged that specialized in denim, Levi’s size at this point allowed it to dominate the market, Clemente added.

Like a lot of the things associated with the hippies, blue jeans eventually became chic,

Ford said. By the 1970s, they’re “no longer really countercultural at all,” he noted.

“They’re kind of evoking a certain part of a countercultural sensibility, but to convey values that have become quite mainstream at that point,” he continued. “It’s become a big part of the American mainstream to be someone who has an idiosyncratic personal style, who has a somewhat oppositional stance to mainstream bourgeois institutions.”

The “irony” is that “very quickly” denim became part of mainstream fashion and eventually high-end fashion with the advent of designer jeans, Ford added. Levi’s, however, remained separate from these shifts, and ultimately made “a big fashion comeback” in the 1980s as the authenticity of the Levi’s 501 became “quite popular,” Ford said.

In 1984, just three years after it rolled out its first 501 jeans designed for women, the U.S. Olympic Team named Levi’s its official outfitter. That same year, Bruce Springsteen released his best-selling album, “Born in the U.S.A.,” with Levi’s signature 501 jeans featured front and center.

By the 1990s, practices like casual Fridays, began to open the door to jeans at traditionally white-collar workplaces. “They needed to be more refined jeans, not faded, not ripped, only on casual Fridays, but this slow process continues,” Ford said. By the late ’90s and early 2000s, wearing jeans with a sports jacket started to become acceptable in certain fields. More recently, in the past 10 to 15 years, denim has begun to become more acceptable even at law offices and banks.

“Now, you wear jeans anywhere,” Ford said. “If you wanted, you could dress up the jeans with a sports jacket. That’s almost formal attire in California at this point. So jeans are kind of ubiquitous.”

THE MODERN 501

Deemed the “Fashion Item of the 20th Century” by Time in 1999, the 501 has not stopped evolving in the new millennium. In 2003, LS&Co. updated the 501 for the company’s 150th anniversary, balancing and straightening the leg and increasing the bottom opening to half an inch.

Recent years have seen a slew of specialty retro styles harking back to the ’90s and the relaxed fits of that era. In 2019, it introduced a 501 ’93 Straight for men inspired by Levi’s roomier 1993 501 Original. In 2021, it rolled out the women’s 501 ’90s, a looser, roomier, mid-rise jean.

The Spring/Summer 2023 season has seen Levi’s roll out a wave of retro styles to celebrate the 501 anniversary, including the women’s 501 ’81, a nod to the first 501 it released designed specifically for women. Throughout the winter and spring, the company released a series of limited-edition styles, including, on May 20, the 1873 “XX Waist Overalls.”

Speaking with investors in April, president and CEO Chip Bergh described this year’s 501 anniversary push as the company’s “largest coordinated global marketing campaign.” Kicked off in February at the Grammys with the help of Latin superstar Bad Bunny, the campaign had driven nearly 3 billion impressions worldwide by early April, the executive said.

According to Bergh, first-quarter net revenues were up 25 percent on top of 50 percent growth in 2022. This year, LS&CO. expects 501 sales to approach $800 million, nearly 70 percent higher than pre-pandemic on a reported basis, he added.

“After all these years, love for the 501 has only grown and continues to experience exponential growth, a solid proof point of the strength of the brand,” Bergh said. ●

“WHAT MAKES [LEVI’S 501S] SO INTERESTING IS THAT THEY’RE BORN OF THEIR TIME.” —DEIRDRE CLEMENTE, UNIVERSITY OF NEVADA, LAS VEGAS

ABOVE: HOLLAND POP FESTIVAL POSTER FROM 1970; BAD BUNNY PERFORMING AT THE 2023 GRAMMY AWARDS

IN THE LOOP

LEVI’S TOOK A LEAP ON CLOSING THE LOOP WITH THE FIRST CIRCULAR 501.

BY ANGELA VELASQUEZ

THOUGH classic and timeless in style, the 501 is on a sustainable journey powered by pioneering startups, innovation, and smart design.

The first circular 501 is proof of that. Launched in 2022, the jean is made with 60 percent organic cotton and 40 percent viscose made with Circulose, a fiber made from recovered cellulose from worn-out clothes by the Swedish textile-to-textile recycling company Renewcell.

For Levi’s, Circulose provides the opportunity to use old jeans to make new ones. By using the recycled fiber, Levi’s saves on water and chemicals and reduces its CO2 footprint, while maintaining the 501’s authentic character.

“Levi’s is probably the most influential denim company in the world, and everybody is following what they are doing,” said Jenny Fredricsdotter, Renewcell circular business manager. “This launch was noticed by the whole industry and after the launch of the 501s we have seen a big increase in requests coming from denim brands and denim mills. It is a real milestone and a proof of quality for us to see Circulose in the 501s.”

Levi’s was Fredricsdotter’s “dream brand” to work with when she joined Renewcell in 2017. That dream became a reality one year later when Renewcell welcomed Una Murphy, Levi’s senior concept designer and Paul Dillinger, Levi’s VP head of global product innovation, to its demo plant in the summer of 2018 before it was operational. “The story of denim to denim recycling at scale was just too good to not be told,” Fredricsdotter said.

The first Levi’s products made with Circulose launched two years later as part of the summer Levi’s Made & Crafted line. However, being an integral ingredient in the first circular 501 hammered home to the denim industry that Circulose is a true alternative to virgin cotton.

“The 501 is an iconic product, the archetype of jeans,” Fredricsdotter said. “It is a product that denim lovers know and recognize. When you touch, feel and wear the 501s made with Circulose you will be amazed that the hand feel is so cotton-like and authentic. Unless you are a denim expert you just can’t guess that the product contains 40 percent viscose.”

For Circulose, the partnership with Levi’s is a benchmark in its decade-long mission to help the fashion industry close the loop.

“When you work with innovations you need to have the courage to start even if the solution offered is not perfect from the beginning. Just get going and then it is possible to develop and improve along the way in cooperation with the innovator,” Fredricsdotter said. “Levi’s was brave enough to start with a new, untested product and invested time and recourses in developing a fantastic quality. We are most grateful for the trust and support from Levi’s and highly value our cooperation. They are true pioneers in circular denim.” ●

THE NUTS AND BOLTS OF LEVI’S FIRST CIRCULAR 501

ARVIND WEAVES HERITAGE CRAFT WITH MODERN MARKET DEMANDS

Denim is all about the combination of tradition meets modernity, but this is especially true for India-based manufacturer Arvind Ltd. Punit Lalbhai, vice chairman and executive director of Arvind Ltd., spoke to Rivet about the company’s handcrafted denim offerings and eco innovation.

RIVET: What is the concept behind Arvind’s Fall/Winter 24-25 collection?

Punit Lalbhai: It centers around the need to “Connect to Indigo.” Indigo stands for longevity, durability and quality, and in these times of uncertainty we feel, more than ever, the need to connect to something steadfast and strong. Additionally, we believe in celebrating the past in a modern yet authentic way that feels right for present day consumers.

To do this, we connect the proud history of denim, the dyes, the yarns and the constructions with contemporary fibers and new finishing technologies that bring new life to iconic ideas.

How does the Arvind Denim Lab facility help your customers develop unique products?

P.L.: We take a collaborative approach with our brand partners that allows us to fully understand their brand DNA, any specific product requirements and competitive landscape and then carry out this brand mission. The Arvind Denim Lab is unique in that it positions design at the heart of product development, immersing creative ideas within a technical environment. Within the lab, design has access to pioneering fabric technicians, denim wash specialists and sales and marketing experts, all of whom help achieve the designer’s vision. As a result, our design team is well positioned to execute against a brand’s brief and bring innovation with commerciality.

Along with innovation, Arvind leverages heritage craftsmanship. Why is it important to preserve hand work in denim manufacturing?

P.L.: Our Khadi project endeavors to revitalize the traditional art of Khadi fabric making, which is deeply intertwined with India’s freedom movement and selfsustainability, and introduce it to the global market. There is a growing global awareness and appreciation for handmade fabrics, making these textiles highly sought after.

To ensure the highest level of sustainability, our Khadi Denim collection is crafted using locally grown organic cotton and natural indigo. The entire production process involves hand weaving and hand spinning yarns, eliminating the need for electricity or fuel. We have also obtained certification for our Khadi operations’ ethical standards from NEST.

As denim chases circularity, how will your partnership with PurFi Global help close the loop?

P.L.: We have been working on recycled cotton since 2014. In addition to conventional recycling methods, we have done multiple production trials with upcoming innovative recycling technologies like PurFi. Some of these technologies must scale closer to the large production regions in South Asia to integrate better with manufacturing and reduce the transportation footprint.

PurFi is promising technology to significantly increase the recycled content percentage as it preserves the fiber quality and

properties, unlike technologies that turn cotton waste to manmade cellulosic fiber-like materials. In addition to fabrics made with recycled cotton, we plan to make recycled cotton available at large through this partnership.

What is your top prediction for the denim industry in the next year?

P.L.: Despite the headwinds in recent quarters, we are seeing good recovery in sales and demand from exports and the domestic Indian market. Our customers have worked to reduce inventories, which will result in new demand emerging in the coming months.

The denim industry is in a transformation phase where everything from raw materials to manufacturing and finishing processes are turning towards sustainability. We also see tremendous focus on raw material traceability and getting visibility into each supply chain tier, and being a vertically integrated manufacturer has helped us provide end-to-end traceability.

We predict the industry will see healthy growth by next year, and demand will be backed by sustainability and traceability requirements. ■

“WE BELIEVE IN CELEBRATING THE PAST IN A MODERN YET AUTHENTIC WAY THAT FEELS RIGHT FOR PRESENT DAY CONSUMERS.”

THE 501’S LEGACY IS INGRAINED IN U.S. HISTORY.

The Levi’s 501 has endured social change, political unrest, global shifts in manufacturing, recessions, the advent of e-commerce, the influence of social media and a multitude of new generations, each with their unique needs and style preferences. From its beginning as a functional garment for West Coast miners to becoming the de facto uniform of youth and countercultures movements, the 501 has enjoyed a front row seat at the events that inform today’s cultural landscape.

TR AVEL ER

BY ANGELA VELASQUEZ

LEFT: CALIFORNIAN MINERS IN 1882; RIGHT: 501 JEANS CUSTOMIZED BY DOUG HANSEN IN 1970.

▲ Levi Strauss (top) and Jacob Davis (bottom) are granted a patent on the process of riveting pants by the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office on May 20. The patent number is 139,121.

Two back pockets are added to the pants, which are called “overalls” or “waist overalls.”

It’s likely the additional pocket was added due to consumer requests or changes in men’s fashions at the time.

Cone Mills develops the 10 oz. red selvedge denim exclusively for 501 jeans. The denim is woven in 29-inch wide looms.

▲ The lot number 501 is used for the first time to denote the highest quality jeans offered by Levi’s.

World War I begins following the assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand.

U.S. Congress ratifies the 19th amendment granting women the right to vote.

The first women’s version of the 501 is introduced, the Lady Levi’s Lot 701. ▼

THE 501 IS A TRUE EXAMPLE OF ‘FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION’ AND IT HAS ENDURED 150 YEARS BECAUSE IT WAS ORIGINALLY CREATED TO WITHSTAND THE HARSH TREATMENT OF ITS HARD-WORKING USERS.” —BETH ESPONNETTE, UNSPUN CO-FOUNDER 1918

▲ The Red Tab is added to the right back pocket of the overalls and the word “Levi’s” is stitched in white in all capital letters on one side only.

▲ World War I ends.

▲ The Empire State Building in New York City opens.

The exposed rivets on the back pockets change to be placed under the pockets. This is due to customer feedback that the rivets were scratching their saddles or furniture. This leads to the first time Levi’s uses a pocket flasher. It’s added to call out “the rivets are still here” with arrows pointing to the corners of the pockets. The suspender buttons are removed from the waistband, but press-on suspender buttons were offered for the customers who still wanted to wear suspenders.

Materials are rationed during WWII. The arcuate is painted on, rivets are removed from the watch pocket and crotch, and pocket bags are sourced from various materials such as denim, olive drab herringbone and twill. Additionally, branded Levi’s buttons and rivets are not being produced so generic stock buttons and rivets were mainly used. 501 jeans from this period are marked “501S” the S standing for simplified.

I GREW UP IN THE ’60S AND THE 501 WAS ‘THE’ JEAN. WE ALL WORE THEM, BOUGHT THEM AS SHRINK-TO-FIT AND SAT IN A BATHTUB FULL OF WATER TO GET THE JEANS TO MOLD TO OUR BODIES. I TRAVELED IN EUROPE AS A TEEN WITH A PAIR OF 501S WHICH I WORE TO DEATH, PATCHING THEM. THEY LASTED ME FOR TWO YEARS OF TRAVEL. I WISH I WOULD HAVE SAVED THEM.” —JOEL CARMAN, OVER THE RAINBOW FOUNDER

as the birth of the modern jean.

◄

▲ World War II begins two days after Hitler invades Poland. The U.S. joins the war in 1941.

▲ World War II ends.

I WAS BORN IN TRIESTE, ITALY. WHEN I WAS A CHILD, JUST AFTER THE WAR, THE CITY WAS STILL UNDER THE BRITISH AND AMERICAN GOVERNMENT. DURING THEIR OFF TIME, THE AMERICAN SOLDIERS WERE WEARING 501S. THEY LIBERATED ITALY AND THEY WERE MY HEROES. IT TOOK ONE SECOND FOR ME TO ASSOCIATE THE 501 WITH FREEDOM AND THEY BECAME THE STAR IN MY LIFE.”

—ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED

► The first 501 with a zip fly, the 501z., was introduced to capture the East Coast market customers who preferred zippers. The style wouldn’t last too long and remains a rare piece of 501 history.

President John F. Kennedy was assassinated in Dallas, Texas.

Signed into law by President Lyndon Johnson, the Civil Rights Act prohibited discrimination based on race, color, religion, sex and national origin in public places.

▲ The Post-WWII version of the 501 starts coming off the production line. The cinch is gone forever, crotch rivet is removed, the rivets are put back on the watch pocket and the arcuate is now stitched with a double-needle machine which gives it the diamond shape at the point where the two lines of stitching meet. This is when the 501 becomes fully evolved and we often refer to this

▲ The two-sided Red Tab was introduced. Levi’s is written on both sides for the first time.

▲ Rivets on the back pockets were removed for good. Bar tacks were deemed enough to keep the pockets from tearing.

▲ Neil Armstrong and Edwin “Buzz” Aldrin land on the moon. The Stonewall Riots take place after police raid a gay bar, Stonewall Inn, Greenwich Village in New York City. More than 400,000 people attend Woodstock, a festival that went on to become the catalyst for the ’60s counterculture movement.

The television advertising campaign “501 Blues” is released in conjunction with Levi’s as the official outfitter of the U.S. Olympic Team.

▼

▲

The Vietnam War ends 20 years after it began.

▲ The 501 jean is named the “Fashion Item of the 20th Century” by TIME magazine.

IN THE 1990S IT SEEMED THAT THERE WAS ONLY ONE JEAN AROUND THE WORLD, AND THAT WAS THE 501.”

—TILMANN WR Ö BEL MONSIEUR-T FOUNDER

▲ The Berlin Wall that separated East Germans from West Germans falls, marking the end of communist power in Germany and the start of reunification.

▲ Thousands of youth flock to San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury district during the Summer of Love.

▲ 501 jeans for women were introduced, with the airing of the famous “Travis” television commercial.

▲ Levi’s stops using Cone Mills selvedge denim for the jeans. Around this period, the brand switches to more economic wide loom denim for the 501. Selvedge fabrics return when Levi’s begins to offer LVC reproductions and premium denim jeans.

Filmmaker Spike Lee directs “Levi’s 501 Button Fly Report,” a campaign that documents real kids doing what they really do in their 501 jeans like catching fly balls outside Wrigley Field in Chicago and setting up lighting for rock concerts.

▼

▲ Four coordinated terrorist attacks are carried out by Islamist extremist group al-Qaeda occurs on September 11, killing nearly 3,000 people. A month later, the U.S. begins to take military action in Afghanistan.

►

The word “Levi’s” on the Red Tab is stitched in white in both upper and lower case letters (capital “L” only). The “E” is the only letter that looks like it changed. Collectors adopt the “E” as the original mark defining true vintage for Levi’s brand products.

Levi’s releases its first hype collaboration with Nike Air Jordan. The Nike Air Jordan 501 XX is sold in a specialty box with a pair of Nike Air Jordan sneakers in Retro1 style printed with the traditional Jordan brand elephant graphic design.

MoMA identifies the 501 as one of 111 fashion items that have had a profound impact on the world in the 20th and 21st centuries in the exhibition, “Items: Is Fashion Modern?”

▲

It’s the end of an era—the last 501 jean is produced at Levi’s Valencia factory in San Francisco.

501 CT launches as a customized and tapered (hence the “CT”) jean to appeal to a new generation of fans.

Middle-distance runner Johnny Gregorek raced a mile in 4:06.25 wearing a pair of 501s, setting a new record for the Blue Jeans Mile.

The World Health Organization declared the Covid-19 outbreak a pandemic for the first time.

▲ The 501 jean is updated for the 150th anniversary of Levi Strauss & Co. The leg is balanced and straightened with the bottom opening increased half an inch. The back rise is straightened for more fullness in the outer thigh and seat and a more comfortable silhouette, and the pitch from the back to the front rise is increased.

THE 501 PROVIDES A GLOBAL DENIM STANDARD THAT HAS INFLUENCED THE DENIM WORLD THROUGHOUT ITS HISTORY. IT IS A DESIGN THAT NEVER GOES OUT OF STYLE AND OFFERS VERSATILITY AND AN ICONIC LOOK FOR ALL GENERATIONS.”

► Levi’s Women’s 501 Original short becomes part of the unofficial uniform for festival fashion.

▲ The 501 is offered in Shrink-to-Fit Stretch for the first time for men and women.

▲ The Levi’s Vintage Clothing Golden Ticket 501 Jean launches, a limitededition jean that celebrated the famous 1971 transition between the big “E” and the small “e” on the Levi’s Red Tab. The company produced 501 pairs of the style, with 496 of them featuring small “e” Red Tabs, and five very special pairs featuring big “E” Red Tabs. Consumers didn’t know which version they had until they bought the jeans and unwrapped a piece of golden foil attached to the tabs.

▲ The Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1955 Japan 501 Jean launches on May 20. Like the 1966 LVC release in 2020, it’s made from Japanese selvedge denim and features every single detail translated to Japanese.

▲ The first circular Levi’s 501 Original is made with organic cotton and Renewcell’s Circulose fiber, a sustainably sourced viscose made in part from post-consumer recycled denim and textiles.

The Levi’s 501 turns 150-years-old. ▲

▲ Barack Obama becomes the first African-American president of the United States.

A pro-Donald Trump mob attack the U.S. Capitol Building in the U.S.

HAVE FAITH IN NOSTALGIC DENIM FROM THE ’80S AND ’90S. .

► PHOTOGRAPHS BY : AHMED KLINK ► STYLING BY : ALEX BADIA

GEORGE

● MARKET EDITOR : LUIS CAMPUZANO

MODEL :

WALTER DERRIG AT CRAWFORD

MODELS

CASTING : LUIS CAMPUZANO

HAIR :

ROBERTO CAMPISI SIMONE DOMIZI AT CONTESTAROCKHAIR

MAKEUP : MONICA ALVAREZ

EDITOR : ANGELA VELASQUEZ

KEEPERS

BRANDS ARE CHALLENGED TO MAINTAIN THE LEGACY OF MADE IN USA DENIM.

BY MATT HICKMAN

The sourcing and manufacturing woes driven by the pandemic ignited talks about nearshoring. However, the Made in USA denim market remains largely focused on raw denim for men, hindered by a lack of skilled workforce and resources.

Mik Serfontein remembers when the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) was the dominant threat to the American factory worker, by inviting companies to manufacture in Mexico. Little did he know that three decades on, manufacturing in Central America would be called “nearshoring,” a laudable term, treated with a commitment to country and quality almost on par with a Made in the USA label.

Serfontein cut his teeth in the denim business by opening a store in Venice, Calif. in 1995, and as he watched manufacturing jobs go south of the border and then across the ocean, the great denim boom of the aughts took flight.

Seeing a niche in the market for heavy-duty selvedge jeans, the South Africa-native Serfontein opened Brave Star Selvage in 2005. The made-to-order brand was made for lovers of traditional denim at a time when bedazzled, ripped skinny jeans and the like were taking over the denim universe. Nearly 20 years on, his company that sells long-lasting selvedge jeans that can weigh as much as 25 oz. for less than $100 keeps on rolling. But how much longer he can keep sourcing domestically is an increasingly daunting question.

“Right after NAFTA kicked in, there were still a lot of places [in the U.S.] to go [source denim],” Serftontein said. “But that was 25 years ago, and the industry has been decimated by globalism. It was a different scenario then. You still had big shops doing volume.”

A titan of those large-scale producers was the Cone Denim’s White Oak plant in Greensboro, N.C., which in the heyday of domestic denim production was known as “Jeansboro.” The plant, established in 1905, was famous for its American Draper X3 selvedge looms.

It was upon visiting that factory in 2005 that Serfontein fell in love with the material and decided then and there that Brave Star Selvage would only make jeans with White Oak selvedge.

That exclusivity became a real problem for Brave Star at the end of 2017 when the legendary plant closed, its parent company citing an industry-wide trend in favor of cheaper milling overseas. In the final weeks of White Oak’s existence, Serfontein stockpiled as much denim as he could. He still has some supply left, but when it finally runs out, Serfontein will have some hard decisions to make, including perhaps, purchasing his own shuttle loom.

“I might just have to bring it in-house if that becomes too much of a problem. People are willing to go down that road,” Serfontein said, adding later he has no specific plans to add his own denim production as it’s a “whole different animal.”

LABOR PAINS

But even if Serfontein were to acquire his own shuttle loom to manufacture the fabric himself, finding enough workers— including immigrants—to operate the machinery is a dubious mission.

“A whole generation of operators have slowly died out and nobody is coming in to replace them. Those kids don’t want to sew—they go to college; they’re transitioning from sewing machines to keyboards and that’s kind of been the general trajectory of the manufacturing space in L.A.,” Serfontein said. “You have a lot of immigrants coming in continually, and that’s one way the business has stayed alive, but they are also very transient…so that’s a big challenge for the manufacturing base.”

Arcanum, Ohio-based All American Clothing has decades-long relationships on its side, but the void of skilled workers is evident, said Matt Bigelow, the brand’s president and COO.

“When we call a factory, we’re not somebody trying to spin up a brand with no history. We have a customer base, so we have a little more credibility,” he said. “Whereas, if you’re just trying to break into this and trying to re-shore, the history of the exodus was so dramatic and fast the challenge is finding skilled labor; that skill wasn’t passed down.”

The men’s and women’s brand started in 2002 after Lawson Nickol, a sales manager for a denim company, spotted an attractive pair of jeans on a sales rack and was mortified to see the label “Made in Mexico.” As the story goes, Nickol quit his job and he and his son BJ started up their own company with the motto, “Make something happen today.”

Lawson Nickol passed away in 2019, but the company roars on in his tradition, producing jeans made with stretch and rigid fabrics sourced entirely from Mount Vernon Mills in Trion, Ga., sent to cut-and-sew partners in Illinois, California, Texas and Massachusetts and stitched primarily in Kentucky. The brand’s U.S. roots are emphasized across its website with taglines “Crafted with pride in the USA” and American flags.

Bigelow said the D2C company benefits from more than 20 years of working with domestic sources and the relationships cultivated by the Nickol. He describes the target consumer of All American as “my dad, the guy in his 50s, 60s, 70s, appreciates a quality American brand made on

Serfontein doesn’t share that same level of optimism about the next generation of consumers insisting upon sustainability and Made in the USA.

“I believe [sustainability] is more of a PR talking point than an actual reality; that doesn’t mean I’m for or against—it’s just an observation,” he said. “Made in America? I just don’t think it’s ever going to come back.”

LOCAL SPECIALTY

Other businesses that highlight hyper-local charm, quality control and unique sizing in their formula can’t imagine a business model where they weren’t producing in the U.S.

Eric Yelsma launched Detroit Denim Co. in 2010 after he was laid off from his job selling printer ink. Given his new-found freedom, Yelsma, who at 6-foot and 6-inches wears a 36-waist and 36-inseam—and not much in the way of a posterior—took the leap into made-to-order denim to help other fit-challenged consumers find the perfect pair of jeans.

“We find that people have body dysmorphia, and they feel uncomfortable talking about their body, looking at their body and assessing their body to get the right fit,” said Brenna Lane, Yelsma’s wife and business partner.

Customers can visit the brand’s Detroit storefront for an in-person fitting and to select the fabric for their jeans, ranging from deadstock cotton fabrics from Cone Denim to cotton selvedge denim from the Japanese mill Nihon Menpu. They can also add personal details like their name to the garment label or a message sewn into jeans.

“A surprising amount of the denim we use comes from different sourcing trips around the U.S. where we go through barns, warehouses, and factories buying the deadstock end-rolls of former mass-manufactured runs,” Lane said. “Our unit-of-one model really allows us to play with small amounts of very special and unique denims.”

Denim heads can build a jean online as well. A visual-driven questionnaire about body shape and leg preference helps consumers dial in on the right fit.

“It’s all about butt size,” Lane said. “I can’t tell you how many times we’ve had couples that come into the store, and they’re so used to wearing jeans that look so saggy in the butt—we call it ‘diaper butt’—it’s not a good look. We put them in something that has a little bit less of a rise and less fabric across the back panel.”

American soil….A hard-working, no-nonsense kind of guy.”

Bigelow believes the labor shortcoming in the U.S. may be more than a nearshoring movement can overcome, even if forces like sustainability and anti-globalism shine in favor. “I don’t want to paint an overly rosy picture of it—there are real challenges,” he said. “The consumer buys based on what the price tag says and industry chases labor.”

However, Bigelow is hopeful that younger generations could provide a way forward on domestic production by insisting on sustainability and workers’ rights.

“You hear stories every other day of working conditions in rural China or a factory collapsing in southeast Asia. I think that’s something that entered the psyche or mindset of people decades ago, but it resonates with younger people more,” he said. “The more worldview they have, the more they understand different labor standards in different countries and would be willing to pay a little more to be associated with a brand that’s made by a neighbor, fairly compensated and working in a safe space.”

Lane said about 40 percent of Detroit Denim’s customers are from Michigan; others are Michigan ex-pats. “Detroit has a magnificent manufacturing legacy and people know that if something is made here, it’s made extremely well and probably robustly over-engineered,” Lane said.

An equally significant portion of Detroit Denim Co.’s customers, Lane said, are people who can’t find what they want off the rack that fits them. “They want to wear raw, selvedge denim. They want to wear ‘real’ denim that’s 100 percent cotton and doesn’t have like 12 percent Lyrca in it, but they just can’t find anything that fits their body that’s offered in those types of fabrics,” she said.

“The size inclusivity and just the way we’re able to cater to our customers’ changing desires and has been such an amazing opportunity,” Lane added. “We were approaching this from the sustainability side. We don’t want to make waste from overproduction, but there are other benefits too, like giving our customers exactly what they want.” ●

THE CONSUMER BUYS BASED ON WHAT THE PRICE TAG SAYS AND INDUSTRY CHASES LABOR.”

—MATT BIGELOW, ALL AMERICAN CLOTHING

ABOVE: DETROIT DENIM CO.

WHY ARTISTIC MILLINERS HAS MADE WESTERN HEMISPHERE & WOVEN MOVES

One theme of Artistic Milliners’ recent history is expansion, as the Pakistanbased mill has moved into new geographies and garment styles. Here, Baber Sultan, the company’s director of product and research, discusses Artistic Milliners’ innovations and investments.

RIVET: Artistic Milliners recently partnered with Denim Dudes on a FW24/25 trend forecast collection. What are some standout styles you created?

Baber Sultan: Our collaboration spanned several months as we developed designs, finalized washes and added intricate details. Bringing these styles to life was an exciting journey, as we had the opportunity to translate Amy Leverton’s masterful forecasting into a physical collection rather than a conventional trend report. The primary inspiration came from the “Avant Y2K” trend narrative, a contemporary and refined rendition of early 2000s style, defined by loose bootcuts, overdyes and dirty tints, all underpinned by a subtle neowestern influence. We also incorporated elements from the “Underground” and “RecessionCore” narratives, infusing the collection with a darker color palette, updated workwear shapes and gender-neutral fits.

Artistic Milliners ventured into woven apparel production with Artmill. What opportunities did you identify?

B.Sultan: We’ve noted a cyclical demand between denim and woven materials: When one is less sought after, the other experiences a surge. Leveraging our rich denim heritage, we

brought our expertise into the woven world, and vice versa. Yes, these two may compete in consumers’ closets, but therein lies our opportunity. We’ve developed a middle ground— innovative hybrids we call “denim derivatives”—which do well with both fabric and garment dyeing. Through this strategy, we aim to ensure that customers can enjoy the best of both worlds, whether they’re drawn to the timeless allure of denim or the sophistication of woven garments.

How is your Los Angeles-based laundry subsidiary, Star Fades International (SFI), reducing the environmental impact of wet processing?

B.Sultan: SFI has transformed into an exciting, creative hub. It enables collaboration on brands’ home ground while allowing us to rapidly introduce our newest sustainable innovations. Our first wash assortment of 2023 showcased the latest eco-friendly washing innovations, synergized with our time-tested fabrics to design sustainably achievable looks. We introduced five advanced wash techniques: Flash

Fade, Brilliant Fade, HydroSave, HydroCool and Next Gen Dyes. These can be used independently or in combination, integrating sustainable finishing solutions like lasers, e-flow technology and foam dyeing. These techniques can reproduce a broad spectrum of finishes, from classic stonewashes without pumice, potassium permanganate or bleach, to entirely new looks in an expansive array of colors and designs.

Artistic Milliners is increasing its North American investment with SFI Mexico. What prompted this Western Hemisphere expansion?

B.Sultan: Choosing California as the foundation of our U.S. manufacturing operations was strategic due to its iconic status in denim history. SFI marked a significant step in our journey to establish a truly global ecosystem by extending our operational model. SFI Mexico is a logical extension of our journey, offering increased production capacity. It also allows us to achieve economies of scale via the hub-and-spoke model, while augmenting our sustainability initiatives at a pace convenient for our U.S. partners.

Following massive flooding last year in Pakistan, how are you supporting rebuilding efforts?

B.Sultan: The floods affected over 30 million people and caused extensive damage to over 2 million acres of crops. In response, we contributed over $170,000 to flood relief efforts through emergency supplies, tents and in-kind grocery donations, which were extended to ongoing initiatives over the following 12 months. In the cotton industry, we have focused on farmers’ well-being by fundraising, and providing them with food support, fair market rates for their cotton through ginners and free non-GMO cotton seeds. Despite the logistical challenges presented by the flooding, we continued to procure clean Pakistani organic cotton. ■

“[DENIM AND WOVENS] MAY COMPETE IN CONSUMERS’ CLOSETS, BUT THEREIN LIES OUR OPPORTUNITY.”

RECYCLING MACHINE

INVESTMENTS

BY JASMIN MALIK CHUA

AT SIMCO SPINNING

and Textiles in Bhaluka, an upazila in the district town of Mymensingh in Bangladesh, the roar of machines is a constant. Barring major holidays, they whir and rattle 24 hours a day, seven days a week, as they shred, pulverize, blend, clean and card textile scraps and other fibers to create thick ropes of roving ready to be drawn into rapidly moving spindles for teasing into thread. The clamor can get so loud that guests are given earplugs. The resulting yarn, commercially known as Cyclo, winds up in sweatshirts, knitwear and jeans for brands like Bestseller, H&M, Primark and Zara, which employ recycled materials to reduce their reliance on environmentally taxing virgin resources.

Things weren’t always so booming, admitted Mustafain Munir, director of Simco’s Cyclo division. When his father, Khawaja Munir Mashooqullah, founded the company in 2009, with technology he snapped up from Spain, sustainability was still a blip on the fashion industry’s radar. The quality of the yarn—then known as regenerated rather than recycled— was also lower because “we didn’t quite have the expertise yet,” he said, meaning that cutting waste from manufacturers and traders was being “downcycled” into coarser, lower-quality yarn better suited for stuffing, mops and towels.

But as concern about the industry’s footprint ratcheted up, so did the sophistication of operations at Simco, which invested in upgrades that further honed its technique. Today, the factory goes through more than 1,000 metric tons of predominantly cotton offcuts per month, combining them with a small quantity of so-called preferred fibers, such as recycled polyester, organic cotton or Tencel, to create a particular look, feel or performance.

Since it threw open its doors, Simco has recycled 72 million pounds of textiles that were destined for the landfill or incinerators. It’s no small feat: Bangladesh’s garment sector generates roughly 400,000 metric tons of manufacturing waste every year, yet less than 5 percent is recycled through disparate and largely informal systems, according to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association.

Even so, Cyclo’s benefits go beyond waste management, Munir said. According to a life cycle assessment, a kilogram of yarn derived from 80 percent recycled cotton and 20 percent recycled polyester uses 99 percent less water and 99 percent less land while generating nearly 97 percent fewer carbon emissions than its conventional equivalent. Because Cyclo obtains its color from the waste, no dyes or chemicals are necessary. The factory sees no negative impact from wastewater because there’s no wastewater to speak of. And depending on what the recycled cotton is combined with, very little needs to be grown.

But despite the groaning bulwarks of plastic and steel, the process is remarkably labor intensive, especially during the sorting stage. On a day in March, a dozen workers decked out in facemasks, protective caps and gloves picked through piles of fabric for a particular shade of red—more scarlet than burgundy—that will end up in Christmas sweaters for a prominent highstreet retailer this winter. Women are better at eyeballing the subtle gradations in color, Munir said, which is partly why the task of mixing different textile lots to create a specific hue falls to one: Golabi Akhter, a technician who has been with Simco since the beginning. Her first name, aptly enough, means “pink” in Bengali.

AND STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS ARE BEHIND MECHANICALLY RECYCLED FIBER MANUFACTURER CYCLO’S GROWTH.

CYCLO SHREDS TEXTILE WASTE THAT WAS DESTINED FOR THE LANDFILL.

Even whipping up the perfect indigo for a denim-based product is more art than science, Munir said. In an adjoining room, two women teased armfuls of multicolored fluff—white, cobalt, sky blue—from bales standing nearly five feet tall. “We actually use different shades of blue or a shade of blue and a little bit of black to get the right tone,” he said. “There’s no hard and fast formulas because each batch, each shade is a little bit different.”

Simco stores its color recipes in thick binders, neatly organized by brand, to simplify reorders of a particular color. Mostly, however, they’re in Akhter’s head. If she leaves, “I’m screwed,” Munir said with a laugh, though he noted that the company is training other people to do the job, too.

POWER SUPPLY

Simco sits on nine acres of land, ringed by lush greenery increasingly encroached by the slow march of industrialization. Just over half of it is occupied by what Munir refers to as the production shed, where a total of 600 employees, 45 percent of whom are women, bustle about over three shifts.

The remaining area is being transformed into a photovoltaic field. Already the factory supplements the power it gets from natural gas and the electrical grid with 200 kilowatts of solar energy. When the field is complete, it hopes to bump that up to 2 megawatts, or roughly half of what the facility requires to keep chugging along. While a challenge is that the area only gets “decent” sun for roughly five hours a day, the move is “completely necessary,” he said. Not only would it help cut Simco’s emissions in line with Science Based Targets but it would also ease the more immediate burden of Bangladesh’s ongoing energy crisis.

Because frequent power cuts caused by gas shortages interrupt production, “having an independent source away from gas is extremely necessary for us,” Munir said. The machines, which are designed to run continuously, “don’t like stopping,” he added. The idea is for Simco to operate on 40 percent solar and “then hopefully we can

integrate new technologies once they start making them at an industrial scale.”

This could include Bangladesh’s first nuclear plant, which is scheduled to go online in Rooppur in Ishwardi upazila in 2024 with an anticipated power generation capacity of 2,400 megawatts, though safety concerns still abound. Last year, the power ministry unveiled an ambitious plan to harness 40 percent of the country’s electricity from renewables such as solar, wind and hydroelectric by 2041. More controversially, it plans to boost Bangladesh’s coal-based power capacity as a stopgap measure.

STOCK HANDLING

When Simco emerged on the scene more than a decade ago, post-industrial cotton T-shirt waste was its main feedstock. It was plentiful, Munir said, and loosely knitted textiles are easier to “open up” and rework back into fiber. Circa 2020, it started accepting denim offcuts, which are more “tightly wound together,” requiring tweaks to the machine settings. The resulting fiber, however, tends to be of higher quality, with a longer staple length, though it matters less if the end product is more denim, as it usually is since ruggedness is a feature, not a flaw. “It’s actually not that complicated, but it takes a lot of trial and error,” he said. Right now, denim processing takes up 10 to 20 percent of Simco’s capacity. Most of the material comes directly from the production lines of its partner brands, allowing them to trumpet their circularity efforts.

Material handling is more complicated with denim, too. There might be surface chemicals to contend with, or elastane to avoid. Simco’s machines can eliminate some amount of stretch contaminants but not all. These can get caught in the moving parts or, if they get through, show up as unsightly bumps in the final product. If a brand wants to overdye the yarn, it won’t soak up color quite the same way. “The whole process kind of gets slowed down,” Munir said. “It’s something that all recyclers live with: how to deal with

the spandex problem. When designers ask us what’s the first thing you can do to design for circularity, I’m like, try to stick with monomaterials where you don’t need stretch. You don’t have to put in stretch.”

Handling elastane is something chemical recyclers have marginally more latitude with because of their dissolving process. As innovations go, this one is gaining speed, with most of the forerunners, like Renewcell in Sweden and Evrnu in Seattle, hailing from the global North. Munir said that expanding Simco into the chemical realm would require a huge capital investment, but that he’s keen on championing some version of it in Asia because that’s where most of the textile production takes place. It’s a “much longer chain” to transport the pulp from Europe to China, Bangladesh or Pakistan to make the yarn, he said.

But both modes are necessary because they achieve different results, Munir said. Chemically recycled fibers have more of a viscose feel, while mechanically recycled ones, depending on the blend, have a more cotton-like hand. The first is more energy intensive, and the second, as its name implies, relies more heavily on water and chemicals. Though shorter staple lengths are less of a problem for chemical recycling, its output is currently more costly. “Maybe it makes sense for the first time through to be mechanically recycled and then the second time through to be chemically recycled,” he added. “They’re going to have to work together.”

Another case in point: Cyclo, at the mo-

story of the garment, including its environmental impacts.” Simco is conducting trials for several brands that want that extra layer of assurance, and though it can’t say which ones yet, B2B companies that produce promotional items are surprisingly quicker on the uptake than retailers.

Next up is expanding Cyclo production beyond Bangladesh. Simco isn’t taking the traditional route of building its own facilities. Rather, it’s partnering with existing factories—Geetanjali Woollens in India and Premium Textile Mills in Pakistan— to piggyback on their infrastructure. “So the concept basically was instead of having to invest capital and time into building new projects in the region—especially since we have a customer base that’s already sourcing there—we go into places that have some kind of setup, adjust their machines, work toward better environ-

ment, can top out at 80 percent recycled cotton while maintaining an acceptable integrity. A 100 percent recycled cotton yarn, derived purely through mechanical means, is technically possible but it doesn’t weave very easily, Munir said. And while slowing the machines could improve the resulting fiber length, that sacrifices productivity. That’s not to say the technology couldn’t improve. “There [are] more engineering minds at it than there were before,” he said.

NEXT STEPS

At a small office on Simco’s production floor, an employee ran a handheld scanner, slightly larger than a USB drive, down a cone of black yarn. On a screen next to it, an image of a fingerprint resolved into a green checkmark. Repeating the sequence on a different cone produced a negative result. The first spool, Munir said, has been inundated with tracer particles from a Dutch company called Aware, allowing it to be validated and authenticated as it moves through the value chain. “You can scan it at every step of the process—so when we make the yarn, when we make the fabrics, when we make the garments, all the way up to even the consumer stage—and you can get the actual product passport,” he said. “You can get the full

mental practices to get them up to what we call ‘Cyclo-centered’ and then incorporating them into our supply chain of existing customers or even onboarding new customers,” Munir said.

The countries have different strengths, he said. Bangladesh is better at flat knits while Pakistan excels in fleece and denim. Pakistan and India, unlike Bangladesh, are allowed to import post-consumer clothing, bringing in another raw material stream. While post-industrial textiles are easier to deal with because they have more bulk uniformity, a relatively straightforward provenance and no trims and zippers that need to be stripped out, post-consumer waste is the “bigger problem,” Munir said. Beyond denim and knits are garments with “different fabrications and patterns and prints and dyes and drapes” that he sees as the “next big challenge” for recyclers.

Munir is confident that the industry is up to the task, but it needs to take a more holistic view of the problem. “We’re going to see another leap forward,” he said of the next five to 10 years. “So there are some interesting technologies out there that we’re looking at. It’s really about not being married to the idea of just mechanical recycling. You also have to look at how do we decrease the environmental footprint of the fashion industry as a whole.” .●

WHO KNOWS WHAT WILL INSPIRE US NEXT—THAT’S WHAT MAKES THIS INDUSTRY SO EXCITING.”

—MUSTAFAIN MUNIR, CYCLO

PANTHER DENIM’S TIM HUESEMANN: ‘OUR PRIMARY FOCUS IS SUSTAINABILITY’

Currently, the denim industry is seeking out sustainable alternatives to lower its environmental impact. One fully integrated textile manufacturing company staying ahead of the curve is Panther Denim. Here, Tim Huesemann, sales director at Panther Denim, tells Rivet how the company is minimizing its environmental impact and latest innovations to keep consumers on the hook for sustainable consumption.

RIVET: How does Panther Denim’s new plant-based fiber contribute to sustainable development?

What is it made from?

Tim Huesemann: We are excited to introduce our newest addition to the plant-based fiber collection—the abaca yarn, also known as Manila hemp. For over six decades, this fiber has been a preferred choice for creating handmade paper. Abaca is an eco-friendly crop that can help minimize erosion and sedimentation issues in coastal regions, which serve as vital breeding grounds for marine life.

Furthermore, it enhances soil water retention capacity and helps prevent floods and landslides. Abaca waste is repurposed as organic fertilizer, making it a sustainable choice for the environment.

Panther Denim is introducing sustainable Retro Dye for color denim. What are the key benefits of this dye?

T.H.: The key benefit of using Retro Dye—a sustainable color denim that can be distressed and washed just like indigo denim—is its reduced water consumption compared to conventional reactive dyes. Moreover, this dye offers a wide range of colors, which makes it a perfect fit for creating colored denim.

The challenge of finding a garment dye laundry that’s also

skilled in vintage washing is no longer a concern with Retro Dye, which can be washed by traditional denim laundries without the need for garment dye facilities. This makes it an easier and more convenient option for brands.

What are the five focus points Panther Denim uses when creating new fabrics?

T.H.: Our primary focus is sustainability, as we bear a responsibility toward our environment, and prioritizing sustainable ingredients is our topmost concern.

Additionally, we ensure that the cotton we source is ethically made, making it our second priority. Quality is our third priority, and we strive to ensure that our new products last for decades, just like authentic denim. Functionality is our fourth priority, and we maintain strict standards for the stretch and recovery performance of our stretch fabrics. Finally, we always explore innovative possibilities, making it our fifth priority.

How is Panther Denim improving production processes and sustainable offerings to mitigate damage to the planet?

T.H.: Our factory currently relies on solar panels for 25 percent of our energy and plans to increase that to 33 percent this year. We are also investing in recycling technology for chemicals and water used in production. Furthermore, we are exploring alternative materials to cotton to reduce our environmental footprint.

What is Panther Denim’s latest innovation?

T.H.: We are excited to introduce our latest innovation, Yolo—a new luxury denim collection that caters to customers seeking unique and personalized experiences. With high-quality and prestigious fabrics, Yolo has

smooth and flat surfaces and a soft touch. Additionally, Yolo utilizes a sustainable dyeing and finishing process that consumes the minimum amount of chemicals.

We invest heavily in innovative technologies and sustainable practices to maintain Yolo’s luxurious appeal while remaining competitive. By leveraging Yolo technology, brands can provide exceptional value to customers and redefine luxury while appealing to environmentally conscious shoppers.

While Yolo is our latest innovation, we are constantly working on new projects. Stay tuned for more. ■

“WE BEAR A RESPONSIBILITY TOWARD OUR ENVIRONMENT, AND PRIORITIZING SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENTS IS OUR TOPMOST CONCERN.”

HELLENIC AESTHETIC

INDUSTRY-WIDE EFFORTS ARE HELPING PUT GREEK COTTON

AESTHETIC

COTTON ON THE RADAR OF EU BRANDS. BY CLAIRE WILSON

PLUTUS , the Greek god of wealth, prosperity, and agriculture, has been good to cotton. New farming initiatives, awareness for locally made products and the adoption of traceable technology is positioning Greek cotton as a solution for sustainable EU-based denim brands. ► Though Greece produces 80 percent of all cotton coming from the EU, little of it remains in the country or even on the continent. That may be about to change, however. Cotton growers in Greece and Spain might soon see some of the benefits of an ambitious marketing campaign launched just before Covid that highlights the advantages of locally grown, high-quality EU cotton. The principal targets are other EU countries with established weaving and sewing operations.

“This might be an opportunity to restart some textile business within the European Union,” said Dimitris Polychronos, CEO of Nafpatkos Textile Industry S.A., which gins and spins cotton. “We are eager to see the results of the effort.”

Under the aegis of the European Cotton Alliance (ECA) and using a marketing company in Spain, the campaign touts the two cotton-producing countries as the wiser choice for several reasons, all linked to the sustainable benefits of sourcing locally.

Cotton sourced in the EU means markedly less time in transit. Shorter distances mean less fuel and fewer emissions, something of which European brands and consumers are increasingly conscious.

According Polychronos, the difference in transport distance is huge. He noted that the estimated standard distance raw cotton might travel before it reaches the end consumer as a garment is about 32,000 km. or 20,000 miles. He gives the hypothetical example of Texas cotton that’s

shipped raw to China from a port near Houston, China makes it into yarn, which then goes to Turkey to be woven into fabric. It’s then cut and sewn in Pakistan from where finished goods are shipped to Paris or London to be sold at retail.

“Our narrative to our customers is that EU cotton is a product made within the EU for EU customers and if they choose it, they will eliminate the transport costs,” Polychronos said.

Cost is a factor for Belgium jeans maker HNST which sources Greek cotton in fabric from Italian denim weaver Pure Denim, as are environmental impact and compliance with EU safety standards, according to a company spokesperson.

“But the main advantage is delivery time,” the spokesperson said. “Italy to Greece is 48 hours [by sea].”

Less time leaves less room for supply chain problems, but two days would also be a vast improvement pollution-wise over the weeks and months textiles now routinely spend on any of the 90,000 container ships plying the waters around the world. Oceana reports that if global shipping were a country, it would be the sixth largest producer of greenhouse gas emissions. And Europe, where the ECA is trying to leave its mark, has the busiest ports globally meaning the highest number of polluting ships afloat in its environs.

Water use in cultivation is also on the ECA’s sustainability checklist. Most cotton farms in Greece are small, family-run operations, no more than seven or eight hectares in size, compared to the typical U.S. farm which might be 200 hectares, according to Polychronos. The country’s small farmers cannot afford to install drip irrigation systems, so the ECA is teaching them to monitor and record water use to improve the next year.

Generally, the climate in Greece is excellent for cotton growth, although creeping climate change has made for more tropical conditions with periodic heavier rainfall, according to Konstantinos Papadopoulos, general manager and CEO of Royal Denim, an Athens-based men’s apparel brand. However, while it hasn’t been radical enough to compromise the crop, the industry must try to get ahead of the curve.

“I believe everyone has to do something,” said Papadopoulos, who buys fabrics from Candiani Denim in Italy and Evlox in Spain, both of which weave goods using cotton from Greece. “We have to change our way of life; we have to decrease carbon dioxide emissions.”

COTTON BY THE NUMBERS

Greece produces 1.35 million 480 lb. bales of cotton annually, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The yield is down 3.6 percent from the previous season but up in exports to the four largest markets which account for 75 percent of production.

Of those, Turkey gets a 50 percent share of Greece’s cotton, followed by Egypt, at 21 percent, and Pakistan and Bangladesh, with six percent each.

There is no figure for how much of the EU cotton crop goes into the weaving of denim. Consistency of quality and strength of the yarn makes it usable in most apparel applications, one supplier said. All Greek cotton, like all EU cotton, is non-GMO, as required by EU regulations, making it more desirable for weavers and garment manufacturers like Royal Denim and HNST who market their lines on sustainability.

Most is mid-staple or upland cotton and is considered high quality because it has few neps or imperfections in the staple. This makes it smoother to spin into thread, then easier to weave into cloth with a pleasing hand.

Greek cotton is also guaranteed to not be contaminated with any other fibers. According to Polychronos, it is all machine picked which removes the possibility of any polypropylene fiber getting mixed in with the newly picked cotton. Polypropylene fiber, he added, can pose major problems for clients’ production. “When the yarn is dyed, these fibers aren’t dyed,” Polychronos said. “You have huge claims from customers.”

THIS MIGHT BE AN OPPORTUNITY TO RESTART SOME TEXTILE BUSINESS WITHIN THE EUROPEAN UNION.”

—DIMITRIS POLYCHRONOS, NAFPAKTOS TEXTILE INDUSTRY, S.A

FRUITFUL FUTURE

Greece had a healthy local garment industry until it joined the EU in 1981. Mills were selling goods to local clothing manufacturers until those sewing operations realized they could get the job done more cheaply in Turkey. Eventually, most of the business shifted out of Greece.

Sustainability is the giant marketing umbrella clothing brands and their suppliers are using to reach consumers, especially Gen Z and millennials. The ECA marketing campaign, branded Eucotton, is sharing the message via hangtags, social media and partnerships with influencers. Its plan includes ads for more traditional media platforms in addition to creating a traceability network.

In business for nearly six decades, Polychronos’ company, Nafpaktos, has a rich history of growing and spinning cotton, weaving cloth and sewing garments. Though it no longer weaves and sews, the company has an elaborate tracing scheme for its fiber and yarn called Yarn_id, which is trademarked and registered with the European Union Intellectual Property Office.

Yarn_id is the company’s internal certification program and can provide all information on the fiber, including provenance, with the option of including fiber marking technology. The program also includes a “green certificate” which is applied to yarns produced using green energy. The cotton can be marked with a DNA marker and bears a QR code to detail the farm-to-fashion trajectory.

Another initiative is the Supreme Green Cotton (SGC) certification for non-GMO long staple cotton which is cultivated exclusively on small family farms. Watering is done by drip irrigation set-ups and energy consumption is monitored by stateof-the-art equipment. Rainwater is recirculated while the HVAC system is designed to save 20,000 liters of fuel annually. The ginning is done locally, at the Varvaressos European Spinning Mills. Everything about the certified SGC product is transparent and accessible by QR code.

Papadopoulos is a proponent of the SGC program because it hews to the values of the customers for his jeans, which are finished by hand. Royal Denim’s customer base is made up of design-savvy individuals who value the environment and the notion of clean air and organic foods. For most, the only kind of food they eat comes straight from Yia-yia’s garden.

“We try to give a unique look to every piece made by us and embrace the beauty of the human factor in production,” he said. “We give our customers a pair of jeans that doesn’t look mass-produced.”

Papadopoulos supports a small group of artisan designers in Athens and is hatching a plan to help them secure the quality fabric to put into their lines, like the denim he buys for his. Their efforts are gaining attention from a wider audience post-Covid, and he hopes their success continues.

“Most Greek designers try to make something different,” he said. “And we try to help people that are up and coming.” ●

ABOVE: ROYAL DENIM; BELOW: HNST

GLOBAL BRANDS HAVE LESS THAN A YEAR TO ADHERE TO EU-WIDE SUSTAINABILITY REPORTING STANDARDS.

BY KATE NISHIMURA

NEW RULES

BRANDS DOING BUSINESS in Europe will soon be subject to new sustainability reporting regulations—and experts recommend they start doing their homework today.►The Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), introduced by the European Commission two years ago, will require companies selling products in European countries to adopt and adhere to EU-wide Sustainability Reporting Standards (ESRS). When the legislation is finalized, enterprises will face more stringent non-financial reporting rules centering on Environment, Social and Governance (ESG) issues. ► Companies will be required to disclose information related to emissions and climate impact, based on standards aligned with the Paris climate agreement. They will also be tasked with reporting on water and chemical usage, worker wages and gender pay gaps. The European Commission will adopt the first set of 12 standards common to all companies in June—and they’ll apply to global organizations, not just EU-based brands. ► Matthew Clark, shareholder and co-leader of the corporate national practice group at Dentons Cohen & Grigsby law firm, said that it stands to become “really important for companies to get ahead of this today,” rather than waiting until reporting becomes mandated in January 2024. When it comes to ESG reporting, “This is not an area that’s going to go away,” he said, “and it seems as though it will become more stringent over time, not less.”

SIZE MATTERS

Firstly, companies must do their due diligence to learn if they will be covered by the CSRD. Non-EU companies will be required to provide sustainability data as a part of their annual management reporting if they have seen a European turnover of more than 150 million euros for the previous two consecutive years, have a Europe-based subsidiary or branch with turnover over 40 million euros per year, or have a “large” European subsidiary. Small-to-medium enterprises (SMEs) will be subject to reporting if they are listed on any EU-regulated market, or stock exchange.

In June, the commission will finalize the information that companies will need to report, and how they will be required to present the information, Clark said.

Executives should be meeting with their finance teams to examine the unique requirements of both parent organizations and subsidiaries. Based on revenue, the directive might not apply to them today, but growth projections could help them determine a timeline for compliance. “If they expect that they’ll be hitting these numbers in the next two to three years… they could quickly find themselves subject to the CSRD and not be prepared,” Clark added. It’s incumbent upon enterprises doing business in the EU to run analysis as their businesses grow, “and the law is going to change on an annual basis,” he said. “There will be additional requirements— there’s no doubt about that.”

“There is no public register” that lists the companies that are covered, and it’s up to organizations to determine their responsibilities or risk being dinged, according to Akshay Sinha, senior advisor for global policy development and Asia-Pacific affairs at Sorini, Samet & Associates. Analysis from financial data firm Refinitiv shows that about 10,400 global, non-EU companies with an EU stock listing—along with more than 100 firms with over 150 million euros in revenue that are not listed in the EU—will be subject to the CSRD. About one-third are American, the group’s insights revealed, meaning that more than 3,000 U.S. firms will be immediately impacted by the rules.

DATA POINTS

The CSRD represents a critical component of the EU’s “ESG Web,” which supports the Green Deal’s goal of transitioning Europe into the first climate-neutral continent by 2050, Dentons research showed. Enterprises will be compelled to report on several ESG indicators in a dedicated section of their management report or annual disclosure using a single electronic, machine-readable format, the law firm said.

The process will involve “collecting the information, tabulating it putting it in the required format—and the regulation has quite specific requirements in terms of reporting digitized information,” Sinha said. While most public companies are accustomed to financial audits, auditing sus-

tainability will present a learning curve. “It’s something that companies are going to have to figure out—and getting the information is very tricky.”

Reporting will require traceability across the entire textile and apparel value chain, beyond a company’s owned operations. “This is a very complicated industry, where there is a lot of opacity,” he explained. “You’ve got multiple tiers, different relationships, and you don’t have much information sharing.” Historically, brands maintain relationships with their Tier 1 suppliers, and “even a lot of the big brands may not necessarily have information where their cotton or raw materials come from.”

A significant contingent of companies has been investing more in traceability in recent years because of shifting demands from consumers and shareholders, however, and they may be better positioned when the directive takes effect. “They may not need to come up with something entirely new” when it comes to compiling information on their supply chains, but they will “probably have to increase the breadth and the depth of what they’re already gathering right now,” Sinha believes.

“I think it’s going to be an area for most companies where currently, they might be collecting some of the data, but they’re not collecting all of the data that’s required,” Clark added. What’s more, companies covered by the legislation will have to ensure that what they’ve provided is accurate, verifiable, and organized for public disclosure under the standards of the CSRD.

“They’re also going to have to start to look at their partners,” he added, noting that there may be a “trickle-down impact” across the different tiers of the value chain.

present some overlap with proposed climate legislation in the U.S. Last March the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) revealed a plan to require businesses to disclose information about their Scope 1 direct greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, along with Scope 2 emissions generated by purchased electricity and other forms of energy. Groups would also be compelled to provide information about certain GHG emissions resulting from “upstream and downstream activities in its value chain (Scope 3).”

The reporting standards, if passed, would be “narrower” than what the CSRD will require in Europe, Sinha said. That means that companies who might have believed that compliance with the SEC law would help them cover their bases for CSRD are likely out of luck. “The SEC requirements, assuming they go through, will probably cover one or two of the environmental criteria” outlined in the CSRD. “There is no law that covers what the EU is demanding” at this time, he said.

Firms may begin to require their suppliers to provide more information to feed into their reporting and add new rules to their vendor guidelines when developing relationships with new suppliers. “We expect the supply chain will continue to feel the impact of these regulations, even if they don’t apply to them directly,” Clark said.

When it comes to penalties for non-compliance, each EU member state will define its own course of action, he added. The European Union Commission has specified that the sanctions must be “effective, proportionate and dissuasive” if a company is found in violation of the CSRD. The member state in which it is doing business much make a public declaration describing the infraction and identifying the guilty party, issue a cease-anddesist order, and take pecuniary penalties against those responsible—though those actions, as of yet, have not been elucidated.

Sinha said the EU regulations may

Firms should be aware of the timeline for CSRD ratification and implementation, Clark said. The first 12 standards will be ratified in June, and European companies subject to the non-financial reporting obligation will be required to begin making their disclosures at the end of fiscal year 2024. Sector-specific reporting standards are expected to be released in June 2024. In January 2028, European subsidiaries of non-European companies with a turnover of more than 150 million euros in Europe will have to comply with new reporting requirements. “There’s a cost to not being sustainable to our environment—our clients generally recognize that,” Clark said.●

WE EXPECT THE SUPPLY CHAIN WILL CONTINUE TO FEEL THE IMPACT OF THESE REGULATIONS, EVEN IF THEY DON’T APPLY TO THEM DIRECTLY.”

—MATTHEW CLARK, DENTONS COHEN & GRIGSBY

COMPANIES MUST DO THEIR DUE DILIGENCE TO LEARN IF THEY WILL BE COVERED BY THE CSRD.

BUILDING A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE FROM A STRONG PAST

This year, ORTA celebrates a major milestone: 70 years of weaving. “This has given us the excuse to unpack old archive boxes, revisit original fabrics, flick through early company brochures and order sheets, and our favorite, go through old company photograph albums dating back to when it all began,” said Sedef Unku Aki, director, ORTA. Such memories were shared with the denim world at Kingpins Amsterdam in a museum-like format—showcasing distinctive ORTA icons of early ’90s Japanese influence, Homespun ultimate X-Hatch of the ’00s, first-generation multicount fabrics, evolved techno shine flex, Alchemy finish for cashmere touch, as well as denim disrupting 100 percent bi-stretch with ORTA legends like 5616, Calgary, Taos and many more.

Here, Aki discusses how ORTA’s passion for the past is building excitement for its future.

RIVET: ORTA broke denim boundaries then and is pushing them further today with modernized eco-conscious performance. What are some of ORTA’s recent sustainability and social initiatives?

SEDEF UNKU AKI: We are embracing a regenerative thinking for all our decisions. With every product we create, we are pushing new horizons beyond sustainable, circular and upcycled towards creating regenerative denim that gives back more than it takes. We define this regenerative mindset under three main pillars— longevity, regenerative materials and circularity.

One, the fabric—hence the denim clothing—should be high quality, physically strong and also provide emotional durability. Our technologists are constantly working to achieve good-looking, long-lasting denim fabrics with a lower footprint.

Two, use of regenerative materials and processes.

We believe that if we cannot use recycled or regained materials then we should look to regeneratively grown or produced materials and systems to remove ourselves from a degenerative mindset.

Three, circularity is about using recycled materials and developing recyclable products without giving up the first aim—longevity. Taking materials back into the system requires no additional water or CO2 emission at the farm level. This always results in a lower impact than virgin material. That is why we generated a standard for our designs called Golden Ratio: the perfect mix of pre- and post-consumer recycled materials and alternative natural materials to give the look and feel of quality that our denim is so well known for, while retaining the ultimate in strength and long-term durability.

What are some of ORTA’s new sustainable denim developments?

S.A.: As a part of our regenerative strategy, we are partnering with Nature Coatings to introduce the world’s first carbon-negative black pigment that is petrol-free and 100 percent wood-waste derived. BioBlack TX is made with preconsumer industrial wood waste from FSC® certified sources from the lumber, paper, furniture and flooring industries. We are using this regenerative technology on fabric coating and, as an industryfirst application, in warp dyeing offering a new-gen color solution that sees wood waste transformed into clean black color.

Another exciting collaboration is ORTA x RE:NEWCELL. This leverages the breakthrough technology that dissolves used cotton and other natural fibers into a new, biodegradable raw material that is renewed to a biodegradable denim ‘dream textile.’ To tackle growing textile waste problem and as an alternative to mechanical

recycling, Re:newcell developed Circulose®, 100 percent recycled fashion fiber to be produced from old jeans, T-shirts and other discarded clothing at an industrial scale.

How do your efforts bring you closer to a net-positive denim ecosystem?

S.A.: Since 2016, our energy efficiency projects have saved approximately 50 GWh of energy per year while preventing 21,500 tons of CO2 emissions (equivalent to the amount of greenhouse gas absorbed by 1 million trees). In addition, we recently received 2nd prize in the Green Transformation Awards by Istanbul Chamber of Industry with our Energy Efficiency in Cogeneration Project that saved almost half of the emission reduction we have achieved since 2016. This proves that we are in a transformative and disruptive era and we get one step closer to our goal of creating a net-positive denim ecosystem. ■

“WE ARE EMBRACING A REGENERATIVE THINKING FOR ALL OUR DECISIONS.”

RETURN POLICY

APPAREL BRANDS AIM TO STRIKE A BALANCE BETWEEN FAIR RETURNS AND SATISFIED CUSTOMERS.

BY GLENN TAYLOR

THE RETURNS keep piling up throughout retail. Consumers returned as much as $816 billion worth of goods in 2022, a 7.2 percent jump from the year prior, according to a report by the National Retail Federation (NRF) and Appriss Retail. ► Apparel has always had its own set of issues with returns, as it must deal with recurring problems like wardrobing—in which consumers return non-defective merchandise after wearing it once—and bracketing— where shoppers buy multiple sizes of an item only to return the non-fitting ones. The NRF/ Appriss report found that half of the retailers surveyed across categories experience this, marking the largest example of return fraud that sellers contend with.► Mitigating wardrobing or bracketing isn’t easy, and retailers and brands are ultimately in a precarious position as returns mount. They can choose to implement consumer-friendly returns policies and stay on their good side or take actions like shortening their returns window or charging a stocking fee and risk consumer disappointment. ► For any merchant, there’s a high price to pay if these initiatives don’t work out—84 percent of online shoppers would turn their back on a retailer after a bad returns experience, according to data from buy now, pay later provider Klarna.

CONSUMERS WILL PAY FOR CONVENIENCE

Some of fashion’s biggest names including Zara, H&M, T.J. Maxx, J.Crew, Uniqlo, Urban Outfitters and Boohoo have all implemented some form of returns fee, with most of these companies still offering free returns as long as they are done in a physical store. Instead, the extra costs are added once the consumer returns an item via mail or a third party. This process only gets more convoluted as consumers often must print their shipping labels, and source new packaging to mail out.

However, return fees aren’t inherently a bad thing, and customers aren’t exactly swearing off a transaction simply because a few extra dollars are tacked on.

MERCHANTS CAN NO LONGER FEAR ADDING RETURN FEES.”

POMA, LOOP

er money on the return but gives them early access to product drops and exclusive collaborations, as well as tailor shop services that better curate the jeans to the individual shopper.

RETURNS NEED CONSISTENT SUPERVISION

Getting out in front of the returns problem before it starts is an area many retailers could improve on. According to the Appriss Retail/Incisiv study, 69 percent of retailers said they don’t understand the root cause of the returns. Additionally, only 27 percent of these merchants appointed an executive to manage returns performance.

Navjit Bhasin, CEO and founder of returns reduction company Newmine, has long called for more retailers to have a point person, or “chief returns officer” that is dedicated to optimizing or reducing returns. “First, returns have always been assumed as a cost of doing business,” Bhasin said. “Second, there is no true owner of returns if you look inside any retail organization or brand. And last, it’s always been perceived as a complex problem to solve.”

The NRF/Appriss survey appeared to cosign Bhasin’s thoughts, with 36.4 percent of retailers saying that the same department is not responsible for overseeing both in-store and mail-in returns. While 53.3 percent of retailers said supply chain execs oversaw mail-in returns, this number dropped to 20 percent when it came to in-store returns.

DETAILS MATTER

While improving product quality control and getting the right people in charge are valid concerns for retail, merchants should also be focusing on more controllable areas of the customer experience. With that in mind, it is critical to display accurate and detailed product descriptions on e-commerce sites so the customer gets what they expect.

Old Navy specifically sought to alleviate the returns problem for denim jeans last year with the launch of the Denim Fit Guide, an online app that offers in-depth research on areas including fit, rise and stretch.

With the guide, the “Compare All The Fits” tool is designed to break down the different jean styles such as wide leg, slim straight and loose, including visuals, descriptions and product differences. The app’s Rise Guide shows where different rise jeans will fall on the waist across different sizes, while the Stretch Guide offers explanations for non-stretch/rigid, low stretch, medium stretch and high stretch.

To bring this feature offline, Old Navy has store employees undergo a special Jean Boss training that includes employee fit sessions so that they can help customers navigate the brand’s denim offering and find the right fit.

RULE BOOK

A guide to the general return policies of consumers’ favorite denim brands and retailers.

7 FOR ALL MANKIND: Eligible items for return must be returned within 30 days of the ship date. Only items purchased through 7forallmankind.com may be returned to the brand’s warehouse. Items purchased through any department store, specialty store, outlet store or online partner must be returned to the place of purchase.

A.P.C.: Customers have 14 days from the receiving date to return full price and sale items for a refund or an exchange.

AMERICAN EAGLE: Consumers can return merchandise for a full refund. Returns with proof of purchase will be refunded in the way the original purchase was made. Consumers can exchange or receive store credit for the product’s current price if they do not have proof of purchase.

BUCKLE: Merchandise can be returned to a Buckle store location free of charge. Consumers can also return their purchase to buckle.com via mail. There is a $6.99 shipping fee for returning via mail.

GOOD AMERICAN: Accepts returns and exchanges of items purchased on goodamerican. com if they are requested within 21 days of the date the order was shipped. Returns and exchanges will be subject to a restocking fee ranging from $2.99-$7.99, which will be deducted from the refund.

MADEWELL: Accepts returns of unworn, unwashed, undamaged or defective merchandise for full refund or exchange within 30 days of the original purchase. Requests to exchange merchandise received as a gift must be accompanied by a gift receipt.

In fact, 70 percent of consumers are willing to pay for more convenient, premium experiences, according to a survey from Loop, a post-purchase platform that enables brands to transform returns into exchanges.

“Merchants can no longer fear adding return fees,” said Jonathan Poma, CEO of Loop. “Instead, they need to add return fees smartly. Our recent survey confirmed that shoppers are expecting premium return options like at-home pickup or boxless return drop-offs. And that [most] shoppers are even willing to pay for them. This is a huge, profitable opportunity for merchants.”

INCENTIVES ARE A MUST

Restocking fees are far from the only area that brands should be examining when they develop a returns strategy. Only 29 percent of 130 retailers surveyed by Appriss Retail and Incisiv said they incentivize shoppers to make in-store returns, which is a low number for a decision that could ultimately enable retailers to sell more product once the consumer returns to their location.

Brands also can’t ignore the impact loyalty perks can have on the returns process. While Levi’s charges a $7.50 processing fee for mailed returns, the denim giant waves the fee for its Red Tab members. By eliminating the fee with the loyalty program, Levi’s saves the custom-

“We’re thrilled to offer a denim omni experience like this at a value price point that will provide ease for our customers so they can find the perfect fit for them faster. We also see this as great opportunity to streamline the jean buying process overall and minimize customer returns,” said Eric Long, vice president of global e-commerce operations and production teams at Old Navy. “We look forward to continuing to simplify the shopping experience as we evolve our offering across the whole family.” ●

TARGET: Accept returns for a full refund within 90 days for most items. Target adds an extra 30 days if the customer paid with a RedCard. Customers have a year to return Target-owned brands.

THREDUP: All items are subject to a $3.99 restocking fee.

WRANGLER: Wrangler.com purchases can be returned for any reason within 60 days of purchase. Returned garments must be in original unused condition with tags attached. Wrangler Reborn products are eligible for refund only. Items ordered from Wrangler. com may not be returned through retail stores.

—JONATHAN

BUILDING BLOCKS

FABRIC COLLECTIONS ARE RICH WITH NEWNESS AND INNOVATION.

BY ANGELA VELASQUEZ

FROM NATURAL DYES and recycled fibers to AI-generated garments, denim mills and manufacturers are showcasing Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collections with limitless possibilities. Sustainability underpins each new idea as well as a desire to produce innovative and creative denim fashion.

Mills are developing F/W 24-25 fabrics that cater to market demands for comfort, versatility, and durability as well as denim that will turn heads on the runway.

Arvind’s collection includes a range of authentic denims with comfort stretch and salt-and-pepper looks. For a dressier look, the mill touts premium dark-wash denim with stretch, quilted denim with a brushed hand feel, comfy knit denim and indigo corduroy that can be washed down like denim.

“Real denim” is a focal point for Artistic Milliners, which is revisiting 100-yearold constructions. The Pakistani vertical denim manufacturer updated classic denim fabrics with sustainable dyeing, fibers and some with 20-25 percent stretch. Special spinning techniques enhance softness and add mechanical stretch properties to other fabrics. The Nippon range culls inspiration from Japanese fabrics, offering loose and comfortable constructions.

Post-consumer recycled cotton and post-industrial recycled cotton make up Siddiqsons’ Good Natured collection. The Pakistani mill is also offering a range of workwear fabrics that incorporate Dyneema, a fiber known for being 15 times stronger than steel, and created full looks (jeans, shirts and jackets) to spotlight its capabilities as a one-stop shop.

Naveena Denim Mills offers an expansive family of stretch fabrics. The Pakistani mill’s Duramax fabrics feature Lycra Lasting Fit 2.0 technology, providing lasting recovery and a cottonized hand feel. The fabrics can achieve authentic vintage looks and are resistant to heavy wash recipes.

New linen and wool blends are part of the collection as well. Naveena’s Lino+ concept is made with recycled linen. The GRS-certified fabric provides breathability and moisture-wicking benefits. Lanamax is a wool blend that keeps the wearer

warm in winter and cool in summer. The naturally breathable fabric is also wrinkle and stain resistant.

Jacquard denim, fabrics with woven rainbow stripes and hemp/cotton fabrics with neppy textures are among Crescent Bahuman Limited’s assortment of special fabrics. The mill is also hopping on the natural dye bandwagon with Archroma’s EarthColors yarn-dyed fabrics.

COLOR TRENDS

Eye-catching color stories are a key part of F/W 24-25 collections.

Denim’s indigo heritage is the main creative driver for many mills this season. The Morrison dye range, created with Japanese dye experts, is a centerpiece of Advance Denim’s collection. A highlight is the Royal V8, a deep and dark pure indigo with a clean wash down that does not flare red.

SM Denim is offering fabrics that are hand-dyed with natural indigo by people affected by the 2022 monsoons in Pakistan. The capsule collection is a way for the Pakistani mill to provide a source of income to communities that are still recovering from the catastrophic flooding that destroyed nearly half of the country’s cotton production.

Orta is meeting the demand for black and gray denims with BioBlack TX by Nature Coating, a 100 percent bio-based black pigment alternative to petroleum-based carbon black. The dyestuff is made with pre-consumer industrial wood waste from FSC-certified sources from the lumber, paper, furniture and flooring industries. Orta also added gray to its family of coatings and dyes formulated for a net-zero future.

Meanwhile, Bossa continues to experiment with colored cotton, which it introduced last season. For F/W 24-25, the Turkish mill showcases garments with brown-hued cotton in the weft.

Vertical denim manufacturer Artistic Milliners and Los Angeles-based laundry SFI are combining their expertise in five new wash innovations for the season. Each one is engineered to be used on its own or in combination to create an array of finishes, including recreating classic stone washes without pumice, PP or bleach.

Flash Fade, a pumice alternative, is a water-free abrasion booster that saves time, water and energy while lightening, abrading and enhancing denim fabric’s highs and lows. Brilliant Fade is an ozone booster that can create vintage washes without potassium permanganate and uses a GOTS-certified chemical to reduce the impact on the environment.

By using a foam machine to finish garments, Artistic Milliners and SFI’s HydroSave with Foam reduces water consumption up to 81 percent. HydroCool Dyes, a pre-cationization product, saves water and energy and eliminates salt. The dye process uses room-temperature water resulting in significant energy savings.

Next Gen Dyes use a patented process that extracts pigment powder from recycled garments and manufacturing waste. The 100 percent recycled pigment dyes can be used on cotton, wool, nylon or any natural fiber blend enabling brands to create custom colors.

CREATIVE COLLABORATIONS

Lenzing is focused on smarter applications for existing fibers, especially ways to meet the market’s ever-changing visual and sustainability trends. Working with mill partners Canatiba, Santanderina and Artistic Milliners to recycle Tencel from their production is one approach. Using Tencel as an alternative to virgin cotton is another. The lyocell fiber producer is developing Zero Cotton and Zero Virgin Cotton fabrics with 15 global mills.

WE ARE FACING THE MOST IMPORTANT REVOLUTION IN BLUE JEANS SINCE WE LAUNCHED THE FIRST TEXTILE LASER IN 1999.” —ENRIQUE SILLA, JEANOLOGIA

FABRIC FIRST

VICUNHA

CONE DENIM

The Great Outdoors serves as the inspiration behind Cone’s capsule denim collection called Wander. The mill teamed with Maria Gunnarsson, founder of Amsterdam-based AMK Atelier, to develop the camping-friendly range. Garments made with Cone Community Mental Health Awareness cotton selvedge—identifiable by its neon green ID—highlight the mental health benefits of being immersed in nature. The 13-piece collection spans utility vests, jackets, oversized cargo jeans and a padded vest dubbed “the human warmer.”

Vicunha’s collaboration with Simply Suzette founder Ani Wells showcases the possibilities of sourcing locally. Called Coração Local, the collection features fabrics made with traceable inputs including hemp, Tencel and regenerative cotton sourced from Brazilian farms.

Earlier this year, the Brazilian mill announced a partnership with Scheffer, the first Brazilian regenerative cotton company to receive the Regenagri certification. By incorporating Scheffer’s rain-fed, regenerative cotton into its denim production, Vicunha’s reduces the use of chemical products, promoting soil health and biodiversity, and reducing the water footprint associated with cotton production.

Soorty turned to a digital collaborator for HumAIn, a 50-piece collection of artificial intelligence-generated garments made with AI Stable Diffusion, an open source AI platform. The collection was imagined by ORNMNTNCRM founder Volker Ketteniss. The Pakistani vertically integrated denim manufacturer produced two of the looks in physical form: a jumpsuit and a cargo pant and a belted tunic top.

AI allows designers to stay ahead of the game, enabling them to produce more innovative and unique designs that stand out in the marketplace, Soorty said.

“HumAIn is a representation of human interaction with technology where the

human value is emphasized and enhanced by technology to discover design possibilities which will not only be relevant for the market but will also drive conscious sourcing and consumption behavior,” said Ebru Debbag, Soorty executive director-global sales and marketing.

DYE AND FINISHING

Nearly 25 years after it introduced laser finishing, Jeanologia builds on its Mission Zero program to eliminate 100 percent of the waste generated in the manufacturing and finishing of denim with a waterless washing machine. The Spanish finishing technology company launched Atmos, its first collection of garments made with G2 ozone and Indra technologies.

Instead of using conventional water washers, the combination of technologies achieves authentic vintage looks without using water, chemicals and pumice stones. The technology uses air washers to extract oxygen from the atmosphere and converts it into ozone to treat garments through a safe, controlled abrasion process. While G2 ozone has previously been used to clean denim, the new Indra attachment offers humidity and temperature control so laundries can manage the intensity of the vintage effect.

Jeanologia anticipates that laundries will quickly warm up to using its air-based equipment alongside traditional water washing machines. “We are facing the most important revolution in blue jeans since we launched the first textile laser in 1999,” Enrique Silla, Jeanologia founder, said about the waterless devices.

Tonello is reinventing ancient dyeing processes with sustainable technologies. The Italian machinery company’s new DyeMate technology replaces traditional manual indigo garment dyeing with a more efficient industrialized system. While

manual indigo garment dyeing can result in uneven colorization and depends on user skill, Tonello said DyeMate’s fully automated process yields repeatable results.

DyeMate replicates the typical process with one that is carried out in an oxygen-free nitrogen atmosphere, with controlled reduction and oxidation technology. It works at low temperatures and uses fewer chemicals. Clients can also make sulfur and VAT dyes with the same technology. DyeMate is sold as an external kit that can be applied to all Tonello washing and dyeing machines.

Officina39 is growing its Recycrom dye range while shrinking the costs and time it involves. The Italian chemical company introduced Recycrom Ready to Dye—a range of 15 standard ready-in-stock colors obtained from a minimum of 65 percent recycled textile pre- and post-consumer material. It can be applied to cotton, wool, nylon or any cellulosic and natural fiber or blend. Colors span light and bright shades of red, blue, pink, yellow, black and more.

The company introduced Pure Recycrom in 2016. The circular dyestuff is derived from 100 percent recycled used clothing, fibrous material, and textile scraps. Later, the company added Recycrom Eco Marble to obtain frosted colored effects, Recycrom for printing applications and waterless Recycrom Gel.

While 100 percent circular dyestuff remains a priority for many, Officina39 managing director Andrea Venier said the company wanted to broaden its services to meet customer demand. “The result is a range of ready-made in-house dyes that allow for cost and time optimization, which we are sure will be greatly appreciated by those who choose this new sustainable option,” he said. ●

ARTISTIC MILLINERS + SFI

AGI DENIM

TWIN DRAGON’S MISSION TOWARD A MORE SUSTAINABLE FUTURE

Creating a product that is both sustainable and provides comfort can sometimes be challenging. However, one denim manufacturer that strikes the right balance is Twin Dragon Marketing Inc. (TDMI).

Here, Stephanie Poon, director of marketing and merchandising at TDMI, tells Rivet how the company is providing environmentally safe alternatives for the denim industry that require less water, energy and hazardous chemical discharge while keeping comfort top of mind.

RIVET: Earlier this year, Twin Dragon debuted its latest “inventive” product, AtmoS Denim. What is the new line made from? What innovative technology aspect does it feature?

Stephanie Poon: AtmoS Denim is made with Japanese and sustainable fiber—hollow fiber—using the most advanced innovative technology with approximately 30 percent hollowness (the highest in the industry) combined with cotton and lyocell fiber to create a soft feel and a more durable denim. The hollow fiber has a unique structure with built-in air spaces that allow for high thermal insulation—leading to temperature regulation.

The mixture of all these components yields an amazing development that keeps you airy in the summer and cozy in the winter.

How is Twin Dragon taking its sustainable offerings to the next level?

S.P.: With our latest release of the AtmoS collection, we further our commitment to creating a premium multifunctional performance fabric that meets the demand for 24/7 comfort, softness and breathability made with 100 percent recycled polyester from post-consumer plastic bottles.

Through 2022, we diverted 23.9 million plastic bottles from landfills. Additionally, we saved enough water to provide 2,788 people with daily drinking water for one year. Today, 80 percent of our items incorporate a sustainable element, and we are working toward making that statistic 100 percent.

How will Twin Dragon reduce the use of chemicals, water and energy in textile production?

S.P.: TDMI has implemented many sustainable measures to reduce the use of chemicals, water and energy under three foundational pillars: planet-friendly fibers, ecofinishing and eco-washing.

We started with sustainable raw and recycled materials curated as the base of our design. By utilizing lyocell/Tencel, hemp, Ciclo enhanced degradable polyester, Repreve and recycled cotton— combined with U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol (USCTP) certified cotton—we forge a sustainable groundwork. We then pair it with climate-friendly processes and chemicals like Cradle 2 Cradle

certified pre-reduced liquid indigo—which reduces water usage by 70 percent compared to traditional indigo dye.

Utilizing liquid indigo has assisted in significantly reducing hazardous discharge into our environment. With the application of eco-finishing—a process that cleans the impurities off the surface of the fabric to bring out the highs and lows of a wash— we’ve helped our customers reduce water usage by eliminating the need for a rinse and de-size step in garment manufacturing.

In addition, many of our finishing procedures have converted from gas-burning machines to electric power, which decreased the release of carbon into the air. Using eco fibers and finishing doesn’t end the sustainability work for us. We want to further contribute to the

circular economy by educating our customers on the significance of responsible garment washes. We achieve this by providing options on how to successfully achieve eco washes in the most environmentally safe manner.

What is driving Twin Dragon’s vision toward premium denim?

S.P.: TDMI’s vision toward premium denim is driven by producing the best quality using planet-friendly fibers combined with responsible manufacturing processes. Offering sustainable products that are accessible on both sides of the hemisphere benefit our customers through efficiency in logistics and manufacturing. It also helps that quality and sustainable denim is on trend, further inspiring us develop and create more.” ■

“TODAY, 80 PERCENT OF OUR ITEMS INCORPORATE A SUSTAINABLE ELEMENT, AND WE ARE WORKING TOWARD MAKING THAT STATISTIC 100 PERCENT.”

IN HIGH SCHOOL , author Bryan Szabo was anything but a denim head, opting instead for thrift store suits. Denim is somewhere between a romance and a religion for Szabo, now in his 40s, who in 2019 founded the Indigo Invitational, a social media-driven competition to identify the pair of jeans with the best fades.

The event, which asks contestants to share photos of their jeans throughout the course of a year to show the natural wear and tear, completed its third tournament in April with more than 1,000 competitors. Szabo, who became a denim convert when he laid eyes on his first pair of Nudie Jeans in 2009, edited the pool of contestants to 50, and from there, the online denim community voted on the best.

Australian artist and denim head Alex Scheibner won the 2023 Indigo Invitational with his pair of 25 oz. straight jeans by Brave Star Selvage, taking home a $350 gift card from Brave Star Selvage and a $500 gift card from Self Edge.

“In my work as an artist [and] blacksmith, I’m constantly exposed to hot, sharp and heavy metals. I learned early on I could rely on denim to protect me,” he said.

Scheibner said he found his way to Brave Star Selvage for its low-cost, superheavyweight, high-quality jeans. “They are basically denim artists,” he said about the Made in USA brand. Scheibner wore the heavy-duty jeans for 365 days, resulting in high and low creases at the knees, an outline of a wallet on the back pockets and a repaired crotch. He even waded through flood water wearing the jeans. “I’m totally surprised by my win but grateful and happy I could represent Australia and wear Brave Star to do it,” he said.

Looking to the next Indigo Invitational and beyond, Szabo wants nothing less than to “start a revolution.”

“I think raw denim is this kind of touchstone for a very large community of denim enthusiasts,” he said, adding that he would like to see 5,000 to 10,000 competitors every year and participation from legacy brands like Levi’s and Wrangler ●

BRAGGING RIGHTS

DENIM HEADS FLEX THEIR BEST FADES AT THE INDIGO INVITATIONAL.

BY MATT HICKMAN

LEFT: INDIGO INVITATIONAL FOUNDER BRYAN SZABO; RIGHT: ALEX SCHEIBNER’S WINNING JEAN.

Sourcing Fabrics

MADE TO BE ACTIVE

Functional Fabric Fair Summer— powered by PERFORMANCE DAYS® is an intimate sourcing event staged in July during New York’s Fashion Market Week, where fashion and athletic apparel designers come together to source high-performance functional textiles, trim, and accessories and to learn how to see beauty in functionality.

LEARN MORE fffsummer2023.com

Functional Fabric Fair— powered by PERFORMANCE DAYS® believes that particularly the sportswear industry plays an important role in preserving the planet and protecting the outdoors which we design our products for.

For us this role consists in the following main actions: Supporting development of sustainable materials, setting sustainability standards, educating the entire supply chain and providing a more sustainable event for the industry.

humAIn

Like finding pictures in the clouds...

A creative collaboration by

Soorty x ORNMNTNCRM,

using artificial intelligence tools to explore, the infinite possibilities of our favorite material—denim!