Rivet Fall 2024 Issue

RANGE ROVER

From Musicals to Crime Dramas, Josh Rivera Can Do It All

EDITOR'S

SWEATER (AND DENIM) WEATHER

whether you’ve had an olympic summer, a brat summer, fell out of a coconut tree, or went to the pink pony club, I hope it was also a restful summer. The cadence of breaking news, viral trends and political twists and turns show no signs of slowing down as we enter fall and peak election season in the U.S. I, for one, look forward to finding comfort in big sweaters, slouchy jeans and pumpkin spice-flavored anything. Cheers to a basic you-know-what fall.

Fall is always a busy and transformative time for the denim industry, from New York Fashion Week kicking off a month-long stretch of Spring/Summer 2025 runway shows to mills and fabric producers convening at Kingpins Amsterdam to discuss Spring/Summer 2026 collections. Rivet will be at both with the fall issue distributed across NYC fashion events in September and the preeminent denim event in October.

Rivet is also heading to Los Angeles this fall for the first Sourcing Journal x Rivet Sustainability LA conference on Sept. 26. With a speaker lineup that includes sustainability experts from ready-to-wear, denim, activewear, tech firms and more, the event is an opportunity to take note of the ways other companies are establishing more responsible supply chains, measuring their impact and transforming their businesses for the better.

L.A.’s denim industry has learned plenty of lessons that it can share. After a post-covid spike, L.A. laundries are adjusting to a new normal in “Local Value,” pg. 42. In “LA View” (pg. 38), designers from leading premium denim brands discuss how they approach sustainability while harnessing the West Coast lifestyle that inspires brands worldwide. In “Blue Blood” pg. 52, Nicolai Marciano, chief new business development officer for Guess Inc., shares how a partnership with a long-time supply chain partner is transforming its business.

Mills and chemical suppliers are transforming their business as well by adding creative service arms. In “To the Rescue” pg. 62, learn how they’re leveraging their expertise to help clients find solutions for their design challenges. Denim brands have long relied on trim suppliers for creative support. In “It’s in the Details” pg. 54, hear from trim manufacturers on what’s trending in zippers, labels, rivets and more. Few technologies have transformed the finishing process like laser. In “Laser Focus” pg. 58, Jeanologia CEO Enrique Silla looks back at 25 years of driving sustainability and creativity with laser innovations.

EDITORIAL

PROD

Anne

Jay Penske Chairman & CEO

Gerry Byrne Vice Chairman

George Grobar Chief Operating Officer

Sarlina See Chief Accounting Officer

Craig Perreault Chief Digital Officer

Todd Greene EVP, Business Affairs & Chief Legal Officer

Celine Perrot-Johnson EVP, Operations & Finance Paul Rainey EVP, Operations & Finance

Tom Finn EVP, Operations & Finance

Jenny Connelly EVP, Product & Engineering

Ken DelAlcazar EVP, Finance

Debashish Ghosh Managing Director, International Markets

Dan Owen EVP, GM of Strategic Industry Group

Brian Levine Senior Vice President, Revenue Operations

Brooke Jaffe Senior Vice President, Public Affairs & Strategy

David Roberson Senior Vice President, Subscriptions

Doug Bandes Senior Vice President, Partnerships PMC Live Frank McCallick Senior Vice President, Global Tax

Jessica Kadden Senior Vice President, Programmatic Sales

Judith R. Margolin Senior Vice President, Deputy General Counsel

Lauren Utecht Senior Vice President, Human Resources

Marissa O’Hare Senior Vice President, Business Development Nelson Anderson Senior Vice President, Creative

ADVERTISING Amanda

Angela Jean Velasquez

RIVET EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Footwear

Katherine Hogan Account Director, Tech

INTERNATIONAL OFFICES

Olga Kouznetsova European Director, Italy

Giulia Squeri European Director, Italy

Elisabeth Sugy Rawson European Director, France

MARKETING

William Gasperoni Vice President

Christine Staley Senior Director, Marketing and Fairchild Studio

Sara Shenasky Head of Client Activation

Barbra Leung Director, Integrated Marketing

Alexa Dorfman Senior Marketing Manager

Kayla Gaussaint Associate Integrated Manager

OPERATIONS

Ashley Faradineh Director of Operations

Rosa Stancil Media Planner

Emanuela Altimani Senior Sales Coordinator

EVENTS

Julianna Cerchio Executive Director

Joy Chernus Senior Director

Gregory Pepe Manager, Events

Elizabeth Hernandez Senior Associate, Events

Sophie Guzmán Events Coordinator

Lauren Simeone Director, Audience Development

Trish Reidy Attendee Sales Manager

EVENT PROGRAMMING

Caroline Daddario Executive Director, Head of Programming

Alice Song Senior Manager, Programming and Special Projects

Nici Catton Senior Vice President, Product Delivery

Adrian White Vice President, Associate General Counsel

Andrew Root Vice President, Digital Marketing

Andy Limpus Vice President, Executive Search & Head of Talent Acquisition

Anne Doyle Vice President, Human Resources

Ashley Snyder Vice President, Associate General Counsel

Brian Vrabel Head of Industry, CPG and Health

Constance Ejuma Vice President, SEO

Courtney Goldstein Vice President, Human Resources

Dan Feinberg Vice President, Associate General Counsel

Denise Tooman Vice President, Marketing, Strategic Solutions Group

Jamie Miles Vice President, eCommerce

James Kiernan Head of Industry, Agency Development

Jennifer Garber Head of Industry, Travel

Jerry Ruiz Vice President, Acquisitions & Operations

Joni Antonacci Vice President, Production Operations

Karen Reed Vice President, Finance

Karl Walter Vice President, Content

Katrina Barlow Vice President, Business Development

Kay Swift Vice President, Information Technology

Keir McMullen Vice President, Human Resources

Matthew Cline Head of Automotive Industry

Mike Ye Vice President, Strategic Planning & Acquisitions

Noemi Lazo Vice President, Customer Experience

Richard Han Vice President, International Sales

Scott Ginsberg Head of Industry, Performance Marketing

Sonal Jain Vice President, Associate General Counsel

Josh Rivera

13

THE ZEITGEIST

The latest movies, books and albums dropping this fall.

18

YOUNG AT HEART

How American Eagle maintains its place as Gen Z’s favorite brand.

22

FLOWER POWER

Finnish design house Marimekko gets serious about jeans.

28

ACTOR’S STUDIO

“American Sports Story” actor Josh Rivera sports fall’s biggest fits.

38

LA VIEW

Designers and executives share what’s next in denim from the West Coast.

42

LOCAL VALUE

After the pandemicfueled spike for local production, the L.A. denim community adjusts to orders leveling off.

46

ALWAYS AHEAD

Trend forecaster

Amy Leverton reflects on her work and the industry as she builds out a new business model for Denim Dudes.

50

FIXER UPPER

Denim Revival helps clients maintain their favorite pairs of jeans.

52

BLUE BLOOD

Nicolai Marciano, chief new business development officer for Guess Inc., on balancing heritage and sustainability.

54

IT’S IN THE DETAILS

Trim manufacturers deliver on the market’s demand for more sustainable products.

58

LASER FOCUS

Jeanologia founder and CEO Enrique Silla looks back on 25 years of laser finishing innovation.

64

COMMON GROUND

How denim became the unofficial uniform of political changemakers.

SCHOOL

▼ ALISON LOU RING

▲ POLO RALPH LAUREN VARSITY JACKET

CALVIN KLEIN DENIM SKIRT

▲ LARROUDE MARY JANE

MARC JACOBS BACKPACK

DAZE

Varsity styling clashes with deconstructed denim, quirky color combos & novelty accessories. by WWD Staff

▲ ELISABETTA FRANCHI ▲

CELINE

▲ TOMMY HILFIGER ◄

KULE JEANS

SUSTAINABLE FABRICS REDEFINING ACTIVE LIVING

Step into the Future of Fabric at Functional Fabric Fair Fall! This exclusive sourcing destination is designed for innovators in outdoor, lifestyle, and activewear textiles, footwear, and accessories. Discover groundbreaking trims and materials that will redefine the future of performance fabrics. Be among the first to experience the latest products and technologies set to hit the market, offering an insider’s view of the trends that will define the 2025/2026 Fall and Winter seasons. Created by the industry, for the industry.

This trade-only event is available exclusively to verified designers, product developers, purchasing professionals, and materials managers. Whether you’re looking to elevate outdoor gear or enhance lifestyle apparel, this is your chance to reconnect with the industry’s best and stay ahead of the curve. Don’t miss it!

Join us at the Functional Fabric Fair Day 0 (ZERO): Sustainability Workshop! Gain valuable insights into sustainability with expert-led presentations and real-world case studies. Explore the latest updates and participate in engaging round table discussions. This workshop provides you with practical knowledge to implement on November 19th, one day before the exhibit hall opens. Don’t miss this opportunity to stay ahead in sustainable innovation!

▼ FRAME COAT

KSUBI JERSEY ▼

G.H. BASS LOAFERS

◄ RAYBAN SUNGLASSES

THE ZEITGEIST

MOVIES

BEETLEJUICE

BEETLEJUICE

The juice is loose. On Sept. 6, it will officially be showtime for “Beetlejuice Beetlejuice,” a sequel to the 1988 Tim Burton cult classic, “Beetlejuice.” The film stars Michael Keaton reprising his role as the infamous spirit, who is summoned once again by the Deetz family. This time, Lydia Deetz (played by Winona Ryder) and her daughter Astrid (played by “Wednesday” star Jenna Ortega) discover that the portal to the afterlife has been accidentally opened.

JOKER: FOLIE À DEUX

Moviegoers are going gaga for “Joker: Folie à Deux.” On Oct. 4, the musical sequel to 2019’s “Joker” will hit theaters. Lady Gaga stars as Harley Quinn, while Joaquin Phoenix reprises his role as Arthur Fleck, who becomes the Joker. The film continues Fleck’s story as a failed comedian whose descent into madness turns him into Gotham City’s main

villain. While imprisoned at Arkham State Hospital, he meets Quinn, the “love of his life.” Upon his release, the two embark on a doomed romantic adventure.

WICKED

Fans worldwide will be following the yellow brick road to theaters this fall.

On Nov.22, “Wicked,” the untold story of the witches of Oz, will hit the big screen. The film stars Emmy, Grammy and Tony award winner Cynthia Erivo as Elphaba, a misunderstood young woman with green skin who is on a journey to discover her true power. Joining her is Grammywinning global pop

star Ariana Grande as Glinda, a privileged and ambitious young woman who has yet to find her true heart.

MUSIC

PARIS HILTON, “INFINITE ICON”

Paris Hilton is solidifying her icon status with her upcoming album. On Sept. 6, the DJ and media personality will release her sophomore album titled “Infinite Icon.”

Executive produced by singer-songwriter Sia, the 12-track disc will have guest appearances from pop stars like Rina Sawayama, Meghan Trainor, Maria Becerra and more.

NELLY FURTADO, “7”

Y2K hitmaker Nelly Furtado is back in the studio and ready to reclaim her place in the spotlight. On Sept. 20, the singer-songwriter will release her seventh studio album “7,” a followup to her 2017 album, “The Ride.” The 14-track album is Furtado’s most personal to date, reflecting on four years of artistic rediscovery.

“I came to the studio lost and searching for my artistic identity. I had done a lot of reflection and self-work during my seven years outside of music, so I was bringing that growth into the studio with me.” Furtado said. “This collection of songs is so personal. It reflects my journey through heartbreak and finding my confidence as an artist again, into the pure joy and celebration you feel when you’re nurturing your passion and are part of a community.”

SHAWN MENDES, “SHAWN”

Exploring his recent travels and experiences, pop star Shawn Mendes is offering fans his most

▲ Netflix's "Territory" is a sixpart neo-western drama.

▼ Y2K icon Nelly Furtado will drop "7" on Sept. 20.

“musically intimate” and “lyrically honest” work. On Oct.18—the heartthrob’s birthday— the Grammy-nominated singer will release his fifth studio album, “Shawn.” The self-titled album was written and co-produced by Mendes, along with collaborators Scott Harris, Mike Sabath, Nate Mercereau and Eddie Benjamin. “Music really can be medicine. Two years ago, I felt like I had absolutely no idea who I was. A year ago, I couldn’t step into a studio without falling into complete panic,” Mendes said. “So, to be here right now with 12 beautiful, finished songs feels like such a gift.”

TV

ABBOTT ELEMENTARY

School will be in session on Oct. 9 when season 4 of “Abbott Elementary,” returns on ABC. The workplace comedy, which stars Janine Teagues, Gregory Eddie and Ava Coleman, follows a group of dedicated teachers in a Philadelphia public school. Despite the odds stacked against them, the teachers are determined to help their students succeed.

HEARTSTOPPER

Get your tissues ready. “Heartstopper” season three will be hitting screens soon, and it’s poised to be an emotional rollercoaster. On Oct. 3, the British coming-ofage series will return to Netflix, continuing the love story of Nick (played by Kit Connor) and Charlie (played by Joe Locke). This season, Charlie struggles to confess his love to Nick, while Nick grapples with his own secret.

TERRITORY

A new six-part neowestern drama is coming to Netflix on Oct. 24. Netflix will release “Territory,” an explosive story about power, family, land and legacy starring Anna Torv as Emily Lawson, Michael Dorman as Graham Lawson and Robert Taylor as Colin Lawson. “Territory is the ultimate tale of big land, big money and all the highstakes drama that come with it,” Que Minh Luu, director of content ANZ at Netflix, said. “We’re working with some of Australia’s leading creators and crew to bring to life a version of this country we’re proud to show to our members both here at home and around the world.” ■

The latest movies, films and albums dropping this fall. by Andre Claudio

Michael Keaton reprises his role as Beetlejuice this fall.

RUNWAYAPPROVED READS

The must-have fashion books to have on your radar.

by Andre Claudio

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO Red Carpet Dreams

American fashion designer Christian Siriano has been turning red-carpet fantasies into reality for years, and now he’s bringing that magic to print. On Sept. 24, Rizzoli New York will release “Christian Siriano: Red Carpet Dreams,” a tome dedicated to Siriano’s continued evolution as a visionary, from his fashion that celebrates diversity, inclusion and body positivity to the craftsmanship behind each creation. “This book showcases my perspective on dressing for the new red carpet. I wanted to help transform the landscape by dressing people of all shapes, sizes, ages, genders and more so that the younger generations can see that there are no rules when it comes to clothes—if I can do it, so can you,” Siriano told Rivet.

DUSTIN PITTMAN

New York After Dark

From shadowy underground haunts to prestigious galleries and clubs, “Dustin Pittman: New York After Dark” dives into the pop culture scene of New York during the ’70s and ’80s through Pittman’s lens. Reflecting on over 100,000 vibrant photographs chronicling the untamed corners of New York City’s after-hours nightlife, the book features firsthand observations and remembrances by Pittman, who photographed some of the world’s most famous fashion designers like Halston, Yves Saint Laurent and Calvin Klein. It includes an introductory essay that provides an objective view of Pittman’s work and underscores its significance as a chronicle of the music, art and fashion scene and a foreword by New York Dolls member David Johansen. The book is set to release on Sept. 3.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

“Our ideas around what the red carpet should look like are dated...I hope I’ve helped contribute to an era where individuality and fantasy shine.”

DOLCE & GABBANA From the Heart to the Hands

Paying tribute to the value and tradition of handcrafted items has been an integral aspect of Dolce & Gabbana since its inception in 1985. “Dolce & Gabbana: From the Heart to the Hands” explores the Italian brand’s archival treasures for the first time. Written by Florence Müller, the book delves into the fashion house’s Italian heritage and the lasting impact of Italian culture on its most iconic and innovative collections. The book will publish on Sept.10 and follows Dolce & Gabbana’s recent exhibition in Milan of the same name.

de Givenchy and American fashion designers Oscar de la Renta, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Bill Blass and Anne Klein. What began as a restoration fundraiser for the palace turned into a culturalshifting event that left an indelible mark on the fashion industry, launched American designers as a global force and challenged the industry norms of the time. The book also features unedited excerpts from Cunningham’s private detailed diary.

THE CAMP 100 Glorious flamboyance, from Louis XIV to Lil Nas X Camp—a style that blends old and new fashion characterized its theatricality, irony, exaggeration and kitsch—has shaped fashion houses and personal styles for centuries.

BLACK IN FASHION

100 Years of Style, Influence & Culture

Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) is diving into Fairchild Media Group’s archives to celebrate Black designers, models and other influential figures in the fashion industry. Written by Tonya Blazio-Licorish and Tara Donaldson, the book features over 375 black-andwhite and color photographs, illustrations and original articles about the designers, models, scene-makers and stylists who have shaped the fashion landscape over the past century.

Diving deep into luxury Italian fashion designer and shoemaker Salvatore Ferragamo’s life and work, Stefania Ricci’s new book, “Salvatore Ferragamo” is poised to be a must-read for fashion lovers this fall. Available on Sept. 24, the book explores various aspects of Ferragamo’s life and work, including the wartime challenges he faced. Despite the scarcity of materials, these difficulties sparked remarkable creativity, leading him to craft shoes from unconventional materials like cork and fish skin.

THE BATTLE OF VERSAILLES

The Fashion Showdown of 1973

Fashion is not always the glitz and glam it appears to be, and “The Battle of Versailles: The Fashion Showdown of 1973” highlights that. The book, written by Mark Bozek and photographed by JeanLuce Huré and the late Bill Cunningham, chronicles the dramatic 1973 face-off between French designers Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, Marc Bohan and Hubert

In “The Camp 100: Glorious Flamboyance, from Louis XIV to Lil Nas X,” author Simon Doonan explores 100 individuals, objects, art movements and more that embody this aesthetic—from The Real Housewives and Linda Evangelista to Coco Chanel and poodles.

“This book comes at a pivotal time for both WWD and the broader fashion industry,” said Amanda Smith, president of Fairchild Media Group. “’Black in Fashion’ celebrates the vibrant legacy and ongoing impact of Black talent in fashion. We are proud to contribute to the enduring narrative of diversity and innovation that defines our industry.” The book comes out Sept. 3. ■

OMAR APOLLO OPENS UP

fueled by the raw emotions of his breakup, Omar Apollo’s sophomore album “God Said No” takes fans through an emotional journey of heartbreak, self-discovery and resilience. → In June, the pop star released his highly anticipated “God Said No,” the heartthrob’s most personal work to date. The album title reflects a conversation Apollo had with a friend about surrendering to the challenges the universe presents, embodying the notion of allowing pain to take its natural course. The title is also a play on the Spanish phrase “Lo que será, será,” which roughly translates to “What will be, will be.”

“I’m not going to lie, I wasn’t in a good place to be writing an album, but the situation was so circumstantial I thought, ‘why not write this pain until it's gone,’” Apollo told Rivet. “It took eight long months of back-to-back work [to finish ‘God Said No’], although some songs were written two years ago.”

Apollo’s 14-track album features heartfelt songs like “How,” “Dispose of Me,” “While U Can” and “Empty.” However, while each track delves into a deep emotion, Apollo revealed that the most challenging song to write was “Glow.”

“I’ve been ignorant, I can be like that. We don’t conversate, we just burn our backs. Lying on a star, we still stay intact. You're my only one, I can promise that. If we go to hell, you can hold my hand, brace yourself, water

pulls the sand. Before you leave, give me one more dance,” the song expresses, highlighting Apollo’s vulnerability.

Despite the emotional toll of writing the album and reliving his breakup, the singer said he enjoyed the process, particularly collaborating with producer and songwriter Teo Halm.

“Teo Halm is a genius to me. I’ve always enjoyed making music with him, even when it doesn’t come out,” Apollo said. “I’ve [also] been making music with Blake Slatkin since 2018, so it felt good to work with someone I started with. Mustafa [who’s featured on the song ‘Plane Trees’] is my best friend, so sometimes I forget we’re both artists. Making music with him is a bonus in our friendship—he’ll always be in my life.”

These collaborative efforts not only enhanced the creative process but also contributed to the album's success.

“God Said No” debuted at number 56 on the U.S. Billboard 200 and number 14 on the Top Rock & Alternative Albums chart, with 10,000 pure album sales and 16,000 album-equivalent units. This marks Apollo's highest-charting album yet.

“This album has really become a time capsule for me, proof that [my breakup] happened,” Apollo said.

To celebrate the album and its success, the 27-year-old singer is embarking on the U.S. leg of his world tour. After kicking off earlier this summer in Melbourne, the tour will now visit U.S. cities like Philadelphia, Houston, New York and Boston, among others.

“I feel like for the first time I’m giving this album and tour a proper representation through dance, lights and visuals,” Apollo said.

“I’m excited to perform at the Hollywood Bowl, Indiana, and Red Rocks—those are going to be special. Chicago and Texas always show crazy love, and I remember Atlanta being really loud too, which I’m [really excited for].”

While on tour, Apollo expressed that connecting with his fans is one thing he is looking forward to the most.

“I’ve been getting really long messages [from fans] that I enjoy reading,” he said. “I love hearing them break down songs or tell me specific lyrics that stuck with them. They’re still stuck to me.” ■

THIS ALBUM HAS REALLY BECOME A TIME CAPSULE FOR ME, PROOF THAT [MY BREAKUP] HAPPENED.”

Q&A

What is your favorite denim brand? Varsity Los Angeles.

What's your favorite thing to do when you're not making music? Eat.

What’s one thing you must bring on tour with you? Disha Hot, my hot sauce brand that I recently relaunched.

What are you looking for in your next partner?

I don’t need a man.

How does fashion influence your music or vice versa? Through visuals and shows.

What fashion trend are you currently obsessing over? Ballerina shoes.

What’s something you always do while touring? I read and watch TV on my iPad. Probably going to play spades or bring a video game, too.

What advice would you give someone currently going through a breakup? Don’t get into another relationship, just be sad. Give yourself five years.

What keeps you up at night? A lotta shit that doesn’t matter.

“God Said No,” but Omar Apollo said yes. by Andre Claudio

HOW PANTHER DENIM’S PLANET INDIGO TAPS TRADITIONAL METHODS TO TRANSFORM DYEING

AAS SUSTAINABILITY becomes less of a want and more of a need for consumers, the fashion industry is exploring innovative ways to enhance its eco-friendly practices and find alternatives to conventional materials. The denim sector in particular is leading this shift, with Panther Denim playing a key role.

Since 1986, Panther Denim has been committed to producing stylish denim that balances sustainability and comfort. Now, nearly 40 years later, the Chinabased manufacturer continues to uphold this mission with its latest innovation, Planet Indigo.

In October, Panther Denim will introduce Planet Indigo, a collection offering a sustainable alternative to conventional denim. Developed in partnership with Shuise Dyeing House, this project combines traditional dyeing techniques with modern sustainability practices to engage both consumers and denim communities, according to Tim Huesemann, sales director at Panther Denim.

Shuise Dyeing House, established in 2010 in Nantong, China, plays a crucial role in preserving local dyeing traditions. Its expertise in dye resources and techniques, particularly its revival of the native Nantong indigo plant through the Wu Indigo Comes Back Home project, reflects a deep commitment to both culture and environmental sustainability, Huesemann added.

“Planet Indigo is designed as an ethical and sustainable denim option, utilizing dye extraction techniques that are part of China’s intangible cultural heritage,” he said. “This collaboration with Shuise Dyeing House illustrates the intersection of heritage and technology, showcasing how traditional methods can address global sustainability challenges. Such partnerships foster innovative solutions and contribute to the long-term transformation of the textile industry.”

INDIGO’S HISTORY

Indigo dyeing is a practice with deep historical roots, intertwining art and science across multiple disciplines.

In fact, natural indigo has been used for thousands of years, with its cultural significance evident in various myths and traditions. China has a long history of plant dyeing, from the Paleolithic Age to the sophisticated dyeing departments established in the Zhou, Qin, Tang, Song, Ming and Qing Dynasties, Huesemann explained.

The term “藍 lán,” or blue in English, refers to the dye plant cultivated in China for over 4,000 years, and ancient texts like “The Book of Songs” highlight its deep cultural integration.

“Historically, indigo dye was a cornerstone of textile coloration until synthetic dyes began to dominate,” Huesemann said. “Although synthetic dyes offered convenience, they also contributed to significant environmental pollution. As awareness of these environmental impacts grows, there is a renewed interest in natural dyes, including indigo, for their lower ecological footprint and aesthetic value.”

“HISTORICALLY, INDIGO DYE WAS A CORNERSTONE OF TEXTILE COLORATION UNTIL SYNTHETIC DYES BEGAN TO DOMINATE.”

TIM HUESEMANN , sales director, Panther Denim

Planet Indigo aligns with this shift by focusing on natural indigo and sustainable production processes. This approach not only reduces water contamination and energy consumption but also minimizes other pollutants associated with synthetic dyes. By leveraging traditional dyeing techniques within a modern framework, Planet Indigo supports a more environmentally friendly textile industry.

Heritage-based projects like Planet Indigo highlight the importance of integrating traditional knowledge with contemporary practices. They offer sustainable solutions that transcend a one-size-fitsall approach, addressing both climate impacts and economic barriers. Such projects earn

trust and foster meaningful participation across the textile sector, transforming conventional production methods and challenging existing attitudes.

“Planet Indigo represents a significant step toward sustainable fashion by bridging the gap between tradition and innovation. By embracing heritage dyeing techniques and modern sustainability practices, it not only offers a viable alternative to conventional denim but also contributes to a broader movement toward environmentally responsible textiles,” Huesemann said.

“This project underscores the value of meaningful collaborations and the potential of heritage-based approaches to drive industry-wide change.”■

YOUNG AT

american eagle outfitters inc. knows what lane it is driving in.→The retailer’s ability to track and pivot into emerging trends and categories helps make its American Eagle (AE) brand the No. 1 jeans line for its targeted core customer between ages 15 to 25. A wide assortment of fits and washes that nod to past eras, coupled with comfort-driven fabrics have made AE denim a staple in closets for back-to-school, while denim accessories, co-branded collections and licensed gear keeps consumers coming back for more. → “As a leading jeans brand, we are so excited to be in a denim cycle right now,” said Renee Heim, AE’s chief product officer. → Heim joined American Eagle as senior vice president for women’s apparel and accessories in January 2021. Her background in product and merchandising in past leadership roles at Vineyard Vines and J.Crew gives her the expertise to create a new denim experience for consumers through product and storytelling. → Here, Heim sheds light on AE’s latest strategies for denim, fabrications and the back-to-school season.

Rivet: The company has been driving growth in the American Eagle brand by going deeper in casualwear. What are some of the casual dressing options or extensions that you’ve invested in to complete a denim outfit?

Renee Heim: American Eagle launched its “Live Your Life” brand platform in late July, empowering customers to go out and do the things they love in the clothes that make them happy. As a leading jeans brand, we are so excited to be in a denim cycle right now. We are leveraging denim to inspire a full lifestyle, seeing success with pieces that support year-round wear, like our women’s Dreamy Drape collection. This reflects the social casual fashion trend we’re seeing now.

We’re blending street, social and runway influences to create easier fits with bottoms that complement casual tops. For women, this means incorporating femme details like ruffles and bows. For men, we’re offering wider, boxier tops and standout prints. We interpret these trends through AE’s unique fabrications, using soft, stretch fabrics that provide comfort without sacrificing style.

Rivet: Who is your core American Eagle customer and targeted age range?

RH: AE is the No. 1 jeans brand for 15-to-25-year-olds, the No. 1 jeans brand for women overall, and the No. 2 jeans destination across all demographics.

This broad appeal is due to our ability to quickly pivot into emerging trends and categories, offering a wide range of styles that accommodate multiple generations. While our Gen Z customer might drive trends through platforms like TikTok, we offer something for everyone, like moms and young professionals who appreciate balance, variety, and more elevated dressing, which can be found within the brand’s AE77 collection.

Rivet: What is the proportion between men’s and women’s in the overall assortment mix?

RH: Our assortment mix is approximately 65 percent women to 35 percent men. Denim plays a more significant role in our women’s business, particularly with women embracing new styles, like wider-leg silhouettes. For our AE guy, we’re iterating on various pants and casual bottoms to keep up with evolving trends, and to ensure men are choosing AE when they’re in the market for new jeans.

Rivet: What are some key fabrications and finishes for men’s and women’s denim?

RH: For women, our styles are focusing on a more classic, heritage look in line with trends, while still maintaining AE jeans’ foundation of

A strong focus on fabrics and fit helps American Eagle maintain its place as Gen Z’s favorite brand.

comfort and stretch for a modern approach to denim. Men’s trends are leaning into cleaner, more traditional washes with straight fits. Our fabrication still reflects a super-soft feel, offering the look of rigid denim with a touch of stretch in all the right places.

This shift requires significant innovation to maintain comfort and style. We’ve introduced our Strigid denim, which combines stretch in essential areas like the waistband and backside with a rigid front for a classic look with modern comfort. And, our Dreamy Drape fabric has been a customer favorite, featuring soft, lightweight denim with a wide leg for a cool, slouchy fit.

Our EasyFlex fabrication for men offers the rigid denim look with the comfort of stretch, making traditional denim styles more wearable.

Rivet: Y2K has been a big trend in denim. Any thoughts on what might be the next decade that will drive denim trends?

RH: We’re seeing an eclectic mix right now, blending influences from the ’70s, ’90s, and 2000s. Trends from the ’70s reflect silhouettes that are getting lower and looser, while more neutral and block-inspired patterns nod to the early aughts. This eclectic influence of past generations allows us to keep our offerings diverse and interesting.

Rivet: What is AE’s strategy for licensed collections and collaborations?

RH: AE has always been at the forefront of culture, and our licensed collections, like those with Mickey Mouse and Peanuts, resonate because they speak to the optimism and nostalgia of our customers. Our recent success with the Peanuts collections and the hit series “The Summer I Turned Pretty” demonstrate the range and relevance of our collaborations, showcasing how

HEART

by Vicki M.

▲ AE is focused on head-to-toe denim styling.

◄ Jacksonville Jaguars quarterback Trevor Lawrence stars in AE’s fall campaign.

▼ New fits and washes are on deck for the back-to-school season.

we create connections across generations. These products and partnerships keep the conversation going with our customers, complement our core assortment, and provide the opportunity to add newness and excitement.

Rivet: This summer, American Eagle and Aerie released their first collaboration. How was the collection received by customers?

RH: The AE x Aerie A Match Made in Denim collaboration was very well received. It demonstrates the power of how our brands are better together and appeals to a broader range of consumers. We know our best customers shop across brands, and we’re always looking for ways to innovate by giving customers a reason to explore all of our brands.

Rivet: Western trends gained a lot of buzz this year. Has it affected AE?

RH: The Western trend was significant, especially with cultural moments—like Beyoncé’s album launch—instantly influencing fashion. We approached the

Western trend with a subtle touch, inspiring customers to express their individuality, whether that’s through simple touches or bold statements. We offer pieces like cowboy boots, Western-inspired jewelry, and a variety of denim, providing versatility in styling and excitement for the consumer who’s all-in on the trend and the one who prefers to dabble around the edges. We even had some fun showcasing this trend within our Peanuts collection, offering Western-inspired pajamas and crew socks featuring a yeehawready Snoopy.

Rivet: Other brands have reported success with denim tops, dresses, skirts—items besides traditional 5-pocket jeans. Has that filtered down yet to the younger customer? What about denim accessories?

RH: We are all about providing our customers the head-to-toe denim styles they’re craving. When denim is trending, we make sure every category has a denim option, from tube tops to jackets. Denim accessories like boho bags, hair scrunchies, and earrings are

also popular. This comprehensive approach helps us stay relevant and appeal to our denim-loving customers.

Rivet: What is AE’s approach for back-to-school this year?

RH: It’s a good mix of both core AE basics and statement pieces. What’s interesting is that when a fashion item hits TikTok and gains popularity, it often becomes a core piece in our assortment. AE has consistently been on the forefront of fashion trends and having the ability to pivot quickly has set us up with a strong foundation for when the back-to-school season approaches. Our collections celebrate individuality and living your life in your favorite AE styles, reflecting our spirit of innovation and adaptability.

Rivet: Tell me about AE’s fall collection.

RH: This fall and beyond, we’re excited about newer fits like the stovepipe, which comes in classic, cuffed, and a variety of washes. The emerging barrel fit has been an incredible opportunity for us. We’re seeing a lot of fun, fresh trends for women, with styles emphasizing puddling around the shoe. After the success of the cargo pants trend last year, we’ve tapped into some of our favorite denim silhouettes, such as Dreamy Drape, to extend our bottoms styles beyond jeans.

For men, athletic fits, bootcut, and straight jeans featuring our EasyFlex fabrication are crucial, offering guys the authentic denim look they want with just enough flex for all-day comfort. It’s all about versatility of product. We have something for the high-trend consumer, as well as those who might be interested in more classic fits. For women and men, we’re really leaning into full outfitting, ensuring customers know how to wear our products from head to toe. AE jeans can stand alone. However, we’re [also] providing really great tops and accessories that our customers can relate to and live their life in.■

Young

FLOWER POWER

Finnish design house Marimekko gets serious about jeans with Maridenim. by Angela Velasquez

marimekko’s signature prints have added vibrancy to apparel, accessories and home décor for more than 70 years. Now the Finnish lifestyle brand has its eyes on denim, using sustainable laser technology to apply its beloved Unikko print to jeans and shirts. Comprising five versatile color washes, three jeans fits and one shirt, Marimekko Maridenim marks the brand’s foray into denim, promising high-quality craftsmanship and sustainable practices and Marimekko’s signature flair. Additionally, the collection follows the Jeans Redesign guidelines by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which sets the industry standard for responsible and circular denim production.

Though denim is new territory for the brand, Rebekka Bay, creative director for Marimekko, said it is a natural extension as it has a strong link to the brand and design philosophy.

“In the 1960s, Marimekko introduced the iconic Tasaraita (even stripe) products designed by Annika Rimala who was inspired by the increasing popularity of denim jeans at the time and designed the products as companions to them. Therefore, in a way, this product launch has been a long time coming,” she said.

Here, Bay shares the creative process behind Marimekko Maridenim and how it carries on the brand’s tradition for bold and playful designs.

Rivet: How does denim fit in with the brand’s aesthetic, and how are you incorporating Marimekko signatures into the collection?

Rivet: Why is it the righttime for Marimekko to launch denim?

Rebekka Bay: While Marimekko has a long history that provides us with an unparalleled source of inspiration, we are also constantly looking for new ways to respond to our customers’ needs and to surprise our audiences. As a print house, venturing into a new product category with Marimekko Maridenim gives us virtually infinite opportunities with denim and, at the same time, it feels like the most natural continuity to Marimekko’s lifestyle offering.

RB: Marimekko Maridenim feels like a natural part of Marimekko and almost like the missing piece as high-quality denim is a wardrobe staple and essential in styling. Whether you are dressing up or dressing down, denim fits every occasion, and it is also the perfect styling companion to Marimekko’s renowned bold prints and colors.

When it comes to Marimekko signatures, Marimekko Maridenim presented us with the opportunity to extend our art of printmaking into a new canvas by lasermarking the denim products with our patterns, starting with our most famous pattern, Unikko that is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year.

MARIMEKKO’S LONG TERM AMBITION IS TO LEAVE NO BURDEN FOR COMING GENERATIONS.”

Rivet: How did you decide on the fits?

RB: Marimekko Maridenim jeans come in three fits: straight, wide and barrel. We chose the fits with three different individual attitudes in mind, so all our customers can find the fit they like and complements their wardrobe the best—whether it is the classic straight fit, a more relaxed barrel fit or a full, flared leg for special occasions. To complete the assortment, we also designed the Maridenim Vaihde denim shirt that can be worn either as a relaxed fit or a straight silhouette. The Vaihde shirt can be used as a shirt or a jacket, depending on the season, and it matches all the Maridenim bottoms.

Rivet: Why did you decide to follow Ellen MacArthur’s Jean Redesign guidelines?

RB: Marimekko’s long term ambition is to leave no burden for coming generations. We believe that, in the future, timeless and high-quality products will be made in balance with the environment, in line with the principles of

the circular economy. We are committed to continuously driving innovation in technologies, materials and business models through collaborations to push the industry forward and to reach our ambitious vision of leaving no trace. As we entered a new product category, we wanted to set high circularity and sustainability goals for the products and decided to follow the Ellen MacArthur Jeans Redesign guidelines as the foundation is the world’s leading network on circularity. The guidelines are reflected in Marimekko Maridenim through, for example, the material choices and high quality of the products, so they can be used for a long time and more easily recycled at the end of their lifecycle.

Rivet: Were there any challenges following the guidelines?

RB: I would not say it was a challenging aspect per se, but we spent a lot of time researching and finding the right partners, who understood our vision in developing this category.

Rivet: How do you envision Marimekko Maridenim evolving in future seasons?

RB: Marimekko Maridenim is part of our continuous collection and each year we will launch new fits and complementing styles, new colors and new patterns, to complement the core assortment. I can reveal that for the Spring/ Summer 2025 collection we are adding a new pattern to Maridenim. ■

▲▼ Designed by Maija Sofia Isola, the Unikko (“poppy”) print has become a Marimekko signature.

▲ The Unikko print turns 60 this year.

▼ Rebekka Bay, Marimekko creative director.

NATURE

atelier founder maria

wants the denim industry to stop and smell the roses—literally and figuratively. → The Amsterdam-based creative studio supports brands in technical design, visual merchandising and sustainable solutions including projects involving upcycling, recycling and natural dyeing. Through workshops, AMK helps designers with creating base fit blocks, size grading and sewing instruction. The studio also welcomes students and other groups to learn how to mend, repair and dye denim. → The atelier is a hybrid of Gunnarsson’s own experiences. Though a slow fashion designer at heart, she has years of experience at commercial brands and understands the business of making and selling jeans.

AMK Atelier founder Maria Gunnarsson provides designers with the blueprints for a greener tomorrow.

amk

gunnarsson

She weaves her love for nature into many of the projects that she takes on. In 2023 she partnered with Cone Denim to create Wander, a capsule collection of ’80s-inspired gorpcore constructions made with the mill’s mental health awareness selvedge denim. The collection highlighted the therapeutic benefits of spending time in nature. This year, she regrouped with Cone for The City Farmers Project, a year-long initiative that will have Gunnarsson design contemporary denim workwear for six young farmers working on a biological farm on the edge of Amsterdam. The AMK team will visit the farmers to learn about their work and see how it’s reflected in the aging of their garments. Each season will be documented on film and through interviews.

Gunnarsson likens her designs to “social fashion” or fashion that the wearer feels strongly connected with. Many of the people who join her repair workshops share this sentiment with garments they’ve inherited or had for a long time. Others, she said, are students who are buying new and cheap clothing because they don’t have the money to invest in quality pieces, but they have a sustainable mindset and want to change how they consume fashion.

MADE

by Angela Velasquez

Born and raised on a farm in Sweden, Gunnarsson said she learned early how to “create what she needed” and to mend and repair clothing. At 16, she moved to Stockholm to study fashion and garment technology, learning patternmaking by cutting jeans apart and piecing them together. Her graduation collection? Upcycled denim. “I realized that denim has so many different details and shapes, so the love story started there,” she said. Meanwhile, side jobs as a salesperson and visual merchandiser for denim retailers exposed Gunnarsson to the trials and tribulations of finding perfectfitting jeans. “I was working in a fitting room with a lot of people and families coming in to buy their jeans and I learned so much about bodies and what kind of brands fit certain personalities and body types,” she said.

An internship at Levi’s Vintage in Amsterdam turned into a fulltime job as a garment technologist for the premium label. “I went straight into a very dreamy situation after school to work in a premium department of Levi’s, LVC where there were amazing people. I got to work with very talented and creative people from design, product development and marketing. It was very fun and crazy,” she said.

I CHOSE TO

BUILD

MY

COMPANY

AMK ATELIER ON MY CHARACTERISTICS AND VALUES.”

◄ AMK Atelier promotes mending, repair and upcycling.

◄ ◄ Maria Gunnarsson, AMK Atelier founder.

▼ Gunnarsson invites students and brands to workshops at the atelier.

When Levi’s moved its global offices to San Francisco, Gunnarsson made the transition to a much smaller but just as ambitious label, Kings of Indigo, in 2014. She said working for the Dutch brand was eye opening as it allowed her to see the industry outside of the Levi’s bubble where there was the flexibility and budget to be creative. As the “queen of product” at Kings of Indigo for five years, she had to be hands-on with materials and production, in the factories and at the wash houses and sewing rooms in Tunisia. She also worked directly with mills like Calik Denim in Turkey to innovate fabrics. “Kings of Indigo is where I got to be really nerdy,” she said.

Gunnarsson launched AMK Atelier in 2017 as a side hustle and creative outlet to explore denim design outside the traditional seasonal cycle of a brand. Two years later, it became her fulltime job focused on three pillars: bespoke collections, consulting and education. “I chose to build my company AMK Atelier on my characteristics and values,” she said.

As a coach to designers, she sees how the pressure to get products onto the market quickly before perfecting the fit or understanding the technical aspects of the fabric affects returns and overproduction.

“I always compare it to cooking— you have to make sure that your fridge is full of good ingredients,” she said about executing a successful and sustainable garment. “The knowledge gap and sometimes naiveness from brands to go on without taking time to really think of the best options is a waste of time. We can’t do that anymore,” she said. It is for this reason that Gunnarsson plans to grow the educational element of her business through more consulting. The personal connection of coaching and the ability to spread knowledge is the only way to make a bigger sustainable impact, she said.

“For me, it’s not about the riches. I feel rich by filling the days with work that fulfills me and that really makes it quite a nice experience to have this atelier. I have been lucky to build the brand AMK Atelier on what I am good at,” she said. ■

SOORTY ON UNITING WITH SUPPLY CHAIN PARTNERS, BRANDS TOWARD SHARED GOALS

SSOORTY IS RENOWNED for innovative approaches to sustainable production. Here, Eda Dikmen, senior marketing and communications manager at Soorty, discusses the mill’s latest efforts.

RIVET: How does Soorty aim to achieve net-zero GHG emissions across the value chain by 2050?

Eda Dikmen: Soorty is proud to announce the validation of our near-term and net-zero greenhouse gas emission reduction targets by the Science Based Targets initiative. This aligns with the 1.5°C ambition and represents the highest level of commitment within the SBTi framework. This landmark pledge reflects our dedication to environmental stewardship and sustainable practices, despite the challenges faced by the developing world, particularly in mapping scope 3 emissions.

Additionally, our recently launched Soorty Sustainable Cotton Research Hub will serve as a pilot farm, R&D hub and education center to empower sustainable fashion and provide insights and advancements. We are also a strategic innovation partner with The LYCRA Company and an early adopter of ShapeSync technology, which offers an invisible, customizable fit and shaping solution.

What does Soorty’s Regenagri Initiative (SRI) in Pakistan aim to achieve?

E.D.: Following our success with the Soorty Organic Cotton Initiative (SOCI), SRI is our continued engagement with farmers, now focusing on transitioning to regenerative cotton. Partnering with Regenagri, this initiative aims to enhance land

health and community prosperity, providing a direct source of material for Soorty fabrics. Our transformative journey began in April 2023, collaborating with 1,100 small-scale farmers over 5,000 acres. It emphasizes improving soil health and biodiversity, tracking the social and environmental good that embodies each of our bales.

How has joining the Circulose Supplier Network (CSN) boosted your circular efforts?

E.D.: Second Life, our traceable denim-to-denim recycled cotton products range, marks a significant milestone in our circularity journey. We collect, sort and repurpose old denim that would otherwise end up in landfills, then transform it into high-quality, durable products that meet the highest environmental and social standards.

The initiative is now expanding. We’re preparing to launch a collaboration that will demonstrate how supply chain partners and brands can unite toward shared goals. We hope this sets a new benchmark for sustainability and transparency in the industry, empowering consumers to make informed purchasing decisions.

As a trusted partner for Circulose®, our CSN membership proves that Soorty is a trusted supplier in the region, which has proven to be beneficial. We also use

“WE HOPE [TO SET] A NEW BENCHMARK FOR SUSTAINABILITY AND TRANSPARENCY IN THE INDUSTRY.”

EDA DIKMEN senior marketing and communications manager, Soorty

Haelixa’s innovative DNA marker at early stages of production, allowing our garments to be tracked and verified throughout their lifecycles.

What are some of the latest trend concepts and proprietary collections Soorty has created?

E.D.: Earth is designed for mindful doers who seek moments outdoors and wear versatile, functional, adaptive clothes. The concept combines fabrics with high-stretch performance that maintain their fit, brush-back options for winter warmth and materials designed with circularity in mind, such as Second Life™, SOCI, Ecovero™ and Circulose®.

Classic offers timeless denim allure. Some fabrics are inspired by classics, refined with sustainable fibers and added comfort, while others are suited for everyday wear. We feature 2x1 and 3x1 RHT workwear options, bi-stretches with authentic character and a range of slub definitions.

Drip, for the young and cool, offers a mix of colors, constructions and silhouettes. This concept includes fabrics with special weave designs and textures, coating stories from glittery disco looks to leatherlike appearances, as well as a dark, inky color story utilizing Earthcolors® by Archroma, Tencel™ Modal fiber with Indigo Color technology and Bioblack TX by Nature Coatings.

How is Soorty using AI beyond conceptual design?

E.D.: We are now implementing AI across our practices, from tracking data in our Cotton R&D Hub to enhancing efficiency and innovation in our production setup. Digital innovation showcases the synergy between craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology to remain at the forefront of sustainable and innovative denim production. ■

Pioneering Sustainble Denim

Soorty leads as the first in Pakistan with SBTi-validated Near Term & Net Zero GHG Reduction Targets.

Learn how we do it.

ACTOR’S STUDIO

Josh Rivera tackles a new kind of role. by Leigh Nordstrom

for fans of Josh Rivera, be it from his musical theater days in “West Side Story,” his role as the moral, sound Sejanus in the latest “Hunger Games” or his much-beloved relationship

with actress Rachel Zegler, the actor is about to show a whole new side of himself.→The 29-year-old, who is easy-going, charming and light in person, takes on the role of Aaron Hernandez, the New England Patriots tight end who was convicted of murder in 2013 and

took his own life in 2017 while in prison, in the FX series “American Sports Story: Aaron Hernandez.” The transformation is unlike anything he’s ever done before.

“I like to be lighthearted, and I like to make a lot of jokes. I consider myself a good-humored person, but there’s a degree of sensitivity I obviously have to approach this with that I might not with other projects,” Rivera says. “With ‘The Hunger Games,’ there’s a little bit of levity there, even considering the subject matter, and ‘West Side Story’ was more of a celebration, whereas this is an analytical lens of the relationships or lack thereof, brain damage, sexuality, societal culpability. There’s a lot of things that go into it.”

Rivera was asked to audition for the role by Nina Jacobson, who produced the “Hunger Games” movies; before learning of the project, his knowledge of Hernandez’s life was minimal.

“But the more I learned about it, the more I felt really passionate about the story. As an actor, anything dealing with density and complexity and analyzing your own personality and the layers in personality, that kind of complexity is something that I always crave,” Rivera says. “The more that I learned, the more that I was really, really motivated to get the part.”

Rivera wasn’t in touch with anyone who knew Hernandez in preparation for the role but rather relied heavily on the Boston Globe podcast “Gladiator: Aaron Hernandez and Football Inc.” Physically, he embarked on a three-month transformation to go from his “Hunger Games” physique, which was the leanest he’d ever been, to playing a professional football player.

“Oh my gosh. I worked out so much,” Rivera says. “FX was really generous; they hooked me up with a trainer, and we worked out four to five times a week, and then I had a football boot camp. I mean, it was tough. I started at 187 pounds and when we started [shooting] three months later, I think I was 215.”

◄ ◄ PREVIOUS

9DCC JEANS, LEE SHIRT, DIESEL LEATHER JACKET.

◄ THE FRANKIE SHOP DENIM TROUSERS, RAG & BONE T-SHIRT AND BOOTS.

Rivera knows that not only is “American Sports Story” the first look at him leading a project, but also a showcase of his range as an actor.

“What I really want in general when I think about my career trajectory, is I want to do all the different things that I can possibly do. I am watching the show back. And something that I feel, which I’ve reframed my attitude about, is whenever I watch myself, I’m like, ‘I wish I did this. I wish I did this.’ And now it feels more like ‘how exciting, I have so much room to improve, I have so many ways that I can still challenge myself,’” Rivera says. “So, I really am craving to do all different kinds of genres, whatever I can get my hands on to expand my acting repertoire.”

Rivera was born in North Carolina and spent his formative years in Boulder, Colo; he thinks of himself as a late bloomer in the acting space, as he didn’t know he was interested until he was 18. Music was his first love and he wanted to go to school for music production but the programs were all too expensive.

“I ended up auditioning for a couple of schools for musical theater, and one of them gave me a scholarship, and it was a lot of financial help for my mom and me and everybody. So I ended up going that direction,” he explains. “It’s kind of weird. It is a lot of really random choices and situations that kind of led me to where I’m at.”

The series, the first two episodes of which drop on September 17, tells the story of Hernandez’s life from his teenage years on, as he struggled with drugs, his sexuality and the death of his father, and follows as he becomes a football star but descends into his struggles.

“I think something that the show does pretty well, particularly in the later episodes, is you kind of establish that this is a person who is well-liked and who is very talented, and who is at worst, misguided early on in his life. And then it kind of starts to escalate and escalate and escalate to the point where even the audience doesn’t know who we’re looking at, even though we kind of saw him grow up. It explains without excusing,” Rivera says. “A lot of things happened in this person’s life where it’s like, if one thing was different early on, who knows?” ■

IT IS A LOT OF REALLY RANDOM CHOICES AND SITUATIONS THAT KIND OF LED ME TO WHERE I’M AT.”

▪

SENIOR FASHION MARKET EDITOR, MEN’S: LUIS CAMPUZANO ;

GROOMER: ASHLEIGH CIUCCI ;

PHOTO ASSISTANT: ZACH REILLY ;

VISUAL MEDIA DIRECTOR: JENNA GREENE ;

PHOTO EDITOR: RYAN WILLIAMS

LOUIS VUITTON

COAT, CALVIN KLEIN

JACKET.

▲ GUCCI COAT, LEVI’S X JJJHOUND

TANK TOP, COLE HAAN

LOAFERS, HANRO BOXERS.

HOW VICUNHA IS ‘TURNING THE TIDE’ ON WATER SCARCITY IN BRAZIL

AAS FASHION-RELATED regulations across the globe tighten, the denim industry is ramping up its initiatives to enhance sustainability, improve transparency and reduce environmental impact throughout the entire manufacturing process. Looking to be at the forefront of change is Brazilian-based denim mill Vicunha, which has introduced new and extensive water conservation initiatives.

Here, German Alejandro, chief marketing officer at Vicunha, discusses the mill’s strategies for tackling water challenges and its alignment with the United Nation’s Sustainable Development Goals.

RIVET: What are the main water challenges that Brazil faces, and how is Vicunha addressing them?

German Alejandro: Vicunha faces a unique challenge compared to many companies: water scarcity. For the past 56 years, we have been addressing this issue in the regions where our factories are located in Brazil. Our primary focus has been on reducing water extraction from stressed reservoirs. Annually, we collect and reuse over 100 million liters of rainwater at our facilities in Northeast Brazil.

Additionally, we employ reverse osmosis technology to produce water for boilers, cutting waste by 3.1 million liters per month. We have also introduced technologies to minimize water use in dyeing processes and use natural starches in yarn preparation, which aids in the biological treatment of effluents.

A notable initiative is our Vicunha Water Footprint project, which is turning the tide on water usage in Brazil. This project measures the water impact throughout the entire life cycle of a pair of jeans—from cotton planting to the final consumer— enabling the production chain to identify inefficiencies and adopt more sustainable practices.

“SINCE ITS INCEPTION, VICUNHA HAS BEEN DEDICATED TO IMPROVING ITS PROCESSES FOR GREATER EFFICIENCY AND SUSTAINABILITY.”

GERMAN ALEJANDRO chief marketing officer, Vicunha

What is Vicunha’s overarching strategy regarding water, and how are you aligned with the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)?

G.A.: We committed to the UN Global Compact in 2020 and pledged to support several goals, including UN SDG 6, which focuses on drinking water and sanitation. By 2030, we aim to improve water use efficiency by reducing consumption in our manufacturing processes and eliminating the use of surface

water sources in Ceará. We are already seeing positive results, having saved over 300 million liters of water combined in 2022 and 2023.

What other water-saving initiatives does Vicunha plan to implement in the future?

G.A.: In early 2024, we launched the VSA project, a cutting-edge water and sewage treatment facility that uses only reclaimed water in our manufacturing process. Looking ahead, we’re planning a new similar effluent

treatment plant within two years. With a $20,000 million investment, this facility will produce 150,000 cubic meters of reclaimed water per hour, enough to fully supply our factory and sell the surplus to other companies, significantly reducing our water footprint in the fashion industry.

How is Vicunha innovating with raw materials?

G.A.: Vicunha has consistently focused on enhancing efficiency and sustainability. Our Regen line uses local, traceable cotton grown exclusively with rainwater. With its success and great acceptance, we plan to increase regenerative cotton fabric production by 15 percent by 2025. Also, our Less Water and Recycle classifications achieve up to 95 percent water savings and 90 percent chemical reduction, using more recycled and fewer virgin materials. In 2023, we used 9,000 tons of recycled cotton from our production. ■

OUR NUMBERS

OVER 100 MILLION LITERS of rainwater annually captured and utilized at our manufacturing units

UP TO 95% OF WATER USAGE REDUCTION in the production of several fabrics in our portfolio

OVER 9,000 TONS of reused and recycled cotton consumed in our production process

NATURALLY

BORN ON THE PATH TO SUSTAINABILITY

From continuously reducing and recycling to consciously using raw materials and resources, we are committed to building a permanently sustainable future

Scan to learn more about our sustainability goals, journey and achievements

LA VIEW

AG JEANS

Designers and executives share what’s next in denim from the West Coast. by Meghan Hall

as the birthplace of premium denim, creativity merging with responsibility is a common goal for many Los Angeles-based denim brands. They’re redefining what it means to be premium with a focus on longevity, sustainable fibers and intentional production practices. They’re also leaning on local design and washhouse talent to elevate denim fashion and push it beyond the basic 5-pocket jean.→These efforts are reflected in brands’ Spring/ Summer 2025 collections. Here, designers and executives from leading denim brands share their vision for the upcoming season and what they believe makes denim a uniquely L.A. product.

◄ ◄ AG sources from Italian and Japanese denim mills.

▲ Icon Denim recently launched an organic cotton collection.

◄ Citizens of Humanity is scaling its use of regenerative cotton.

TRIARCHY

Adam Taubenfligel co-founder and creative director

On S/S ’25: This is a collection that focuses on the fine lines of denim excellence. We bring silhouettes to life in familiar ways but with unexpected detailing—jeans and jackets with western-inspired seam lines and darts; bowlegged jeans in rich, dark washes and tailored jackets with hot pants are just a few of the highlights of this irreverent collection.

• On sustainability: We don’t make anything at Triarchy unless it falls within our very strict responsibility lens. We are the only brand to offer plastic-free stretch denim across our entire core collection, and we only work with sustainable washing machinery and organic or regenerative cotton. Our actions and practices are vetted and published by a third-party auditor to ensure we aren’t contributing to greenwashing and making sure we can consistently deliver denim with a clear conscience.

• On inspiration: I would say that travel remains my biggest source of inspiration when creating new collections for Triarchy. I am always drawn to timeless design, as I would never want to make anything that you wouldn’t want to wear in five- or 10-years’ time. I find that walking the streets of Paris or London allows for a window into timeless fashion.

• On premium denim: Premium denim is denim that is not made like fast fashion, and that hopefully is made with responsibility in mind. I don’t think a brand should be able to call itself premium if its manufacturing practices are irresponsible, regardless of price point or market standing.

CITIZENS OF HUMANITY

ICON DENIM LA

On L.A.: I think denim and L.A. are synonymous, and they always will be. Los Angeles will forever influence our washes and aesthetics. When I see a light blue pair of jeans, it makes me think of sunshine and who in the world doesn’t love sunshine? For this reason alone, the influence L.A. has on Triarchy translates globally.

AG JEANS

Jen Kim senior design director

On S/S ’25: We are excited and confident about the success of two new fits that we introduced for Fall/Winter ’24—Brinley, a mid-rise straight leg, and Hattie, a high-rise barrel—that we wanted to continue the momentum for S/S ’25 and build those fit blocks in cropped versions. Additionally, we are launching two new short fits: the Halle, a high-rise relaxed short, and a new high-rise Bermuda [short] called the Hattie short that takes inspiration from our barrel jean.

• On sustainability: AG has worked hard over the years to implement sustainable practices in our design and manufacturing by using laser technology, recycled water [and more]. This practice continues each season, and we strive to do better season after season.

On inspiration: For spring, we were inspired by the vast shoreline of the West Coast and vintage naval uniforms. We found inspiration in vintage deck pants and jackets, as well as the Fleet Week episode from “Sex and the City.” You’ll find mariner-inspired details sprinkled throughout the collection. For summer, we continue down the coast to Baja to seek refuge. We found inspiration in the sunbaked surfaces and vibrant colors of the region.

Getting out of the office and traveling is one of the best ways to get inspired. It’s great to get out of your comfort zone and be somewhere else, breathe new air and see new things. People watching and seeing how people put looks together is so inspiring.

• On premium denim: Premium denim is about craftsmanship, innovative washes and fit. It all begins with a cloth, and AG partners with the best denim mills in the world. Many of our fabrics are sourced from the finest Italian and Japanese mills. Couple that with our founders’ extensive manufacturing knowledge and our passion for fit, and you have a superior standard of denim that distinguishes itself from commercial denim.

• On L.A.: L.A.’s laid-back lifestyle mixed with a vibrant arts and entertainment scene leads to designs that are effortless and relaxed. This way of dressing lends itself to denim and is sought after across the globe. I have designed for many brands that have tried to capture the relaxed spirit of California.

CITIZENS OF HUMANITY

Marianne McDonald creative director

On S/S ’25: For spring, we’ve been experimenting with ready-to-wear styles like trousers, vests and shirting in fluid denim fabrications that feel effortless and sophisticated. Also, we continue to be inspired by vintage styles, and you’ll see new silhouettes that feel both boyish and sexy at the same time. We have been gravitating toward lived-in washes in beautiful indigos and destructed denim in easy, relaxed silhouettes and stone-washed denim in neutral colors.

• On sustainability : We are continuously implementing sustainable technologies and processes into our apparel making. We are thrilled to have seen incredible success thus far with our regenerative cotton program, which began to roll out within our collections earlier this past spring. Currently, we are on track to procure a total of 4 million pounds of regenerative cotton. We look forward to the continued growth and success of this program year after year and bringing others (such as additional farmers, mills, brands, and retailers) along the journey with us to regeneration.

• On inspiration: At Citizens, we’ve always been excited by the narrative power of fashion and this season, ready-to-wear from the late 90s and reworked vintage are some of the elements that we’ve been drawn to. This takes shape in the form of fluid silhouettes, patch and repair, as well as relaxed utility styles that push the boundaries of everyday dressing.

WASHES AND FIT.” Jen Kim, AG Jeans

• On premium denim: For me, premium denim is something that is defined not by the price of one’s jeans, but rather by the values behind the brand and the platform it provides to be in service to the world. Without these elements, it becomes just another piece of clothing. For us at Citizens, we believe that premium denim begins with craftsmanship and a dedication to design and is firmly rooted in what we can do for the environment and the communities that surround us.

• On L.A.: There’s something distinct about the way people dress on the West Coast. Jeans are often the mainstay of one’s closet and there is a real connection between style and culture. L.A. embodies this unique point of view because of the mild climate and the deeply creative spirit embedded in the city. I think this translates to markets outside of L.A. because it brings an effortlessness to everyday dressing that feels authentic and cool.

AGOLDE

Jack Burns design director

On S/S ’25: We’re offering alternative fits for men. We want to go out to the guy who is a little more interested in something unusual. This season, we’re debuting a high-rise fit for men; I think guys are looking for something

PREMIUM DENIM IS ABOUT CRAFTSMANSHIP, INNOVATIVE

EB DENIM

that’s a little more tailored or refined in the top block, and we love a wider, baggier fit in the legs. We [also] have some other pieces; the Fusion jean is the one I wear quite a bit. It’s very generous through the leg, more like a vintage Silver Tab look. And we’re expanding immensely into ready-to-wear.

• On sustainability: We’re focusing on our regenerative cotton. We are partnering very closely with farmers in America and paying a premium for cotton that’s grown with regenerative practice, to build our own materials. Normally, the focus is on recycling or finishing, but this is literally from the ground up. For spring, regenerative is our focus with the denim line. Most of our base [fabrics] are regenerative, and we’re going to be transitioning, hopefully to 100 percent, in the next year or so.

• On inspiration: I love shopping, and I have a really hard time finding clothes that I want to wear in the men’s market. So to me, it really started from a place of ‘oh, these things don’t exist, and I need them to exist because I want to wear them.’ It was very personal. We do this in women’s as well—what can’t you find that you really need? You go out to any store and it’s like, ‘Oh my God, there’s so much stuff,’ and you feel guilty as a designer sometimes contributing to more stuff, so, for me, the inspiration was really, let’s create honest clothes…that people are going to wear for a very long time and really cherish, and what items can’t they buy from anyone else that they need?

• On premium denim: [A lot of it is about] the fabric. We use fabric from Candiani and Kaihara. It must be good 3x1. We don’t like stretch denim. It must be rich; it must have a beautiful wash and feel really good. It must fit well and last a long time. I think people should be buying [fewer] clothes, so my mission in my career is to design clothes that have a lot of integrity, that are going to last for a long time and people won’t feel the need to replace them so rapidly.

AGOLDE

On inspiration: EB Denim has a few great core silhouettes that I wanted to base this collection off. The whole theme of the collection is rooted in the TWA Hotel [at JFK airport]; that was the inspiration for the collection. I fell in love with the architecture and the curvature and the silhouettes and colors of everything. I also just intuitively think, what do I want to be wearing? Listening to my body, what feels good? What shapes and silhouettes are flattering on my body and designing into that.

• On premium denim: I think it’s all about the quality of materials—the rivets, how intricate the washes look, the whiskers’ look, the integrity of the denim itself. Also, the fit is really important. All those things combined— plus design—create premium denim.

THERE’S SOMETHING DISTINCT ABOUT THE WAY PEOPLE DRESS ON THE WEST COAST.”

◄ EB Denim is working with Artistic Milliners.

▲ Agolde’s factories and wash house are located in L.A.

▼ Triarchy offers plastic-free stretch denim.

Marianne McDonald, Citizens of Humanity

On L.A.: L.A. exports so much of its culture already—every luxury brand in Europe wants to participate in L.A. There’s so much heritage in terms of the denim industry in L.A. We have our wash house there, which is incredible. It’s one of the most amazing facilities I’ve ever been to. We have our own factories, as well, in L.A. The garment industry in L.A. is really inspiring. As a New Yorker who moved there, I never thought of L.A. as a garment manufacturing hub, and when I finally did live and work in L.A., the garment industry there is so impressive— it’s so much more impressive than New York.

EB DENIM

Elena Bonvicini founder and creative director

On S/S ’25: We have the Frederic Jean, which is this bowed-shaped horseshoe, and I wanted to expand upon that. So, we have a few new introductions of different barrel legs, more of our low-rise baggy jean, which has done so well for us. We are also introducing a fresh take on a flare. I wanted a palette cleanser, too, because a lot of what EB Denim has been is great novelty denim ideas. I wanted to start introducing more wearable pieces that a girl can put on and feel comfortable and cool and can elevate the look without being too overstated. It’s kind of like a palette cleanser, in a way, for us.

• On sustainability: Sustainability is always in the back of my mind. It’s a tough balance between being a profitable and growing business, while also trying to be as sustainable as possible, while still offering customers a reasonable price point. All these things must come into consideration.

We have just recently moved our production to Artistic Milliners in Pakistan, and they check every single box of sustainability. It was a hard decision to move my production from L.A. because it’s right around the corner and I have visibility, but in terms of longevity of the business, I thought it was a great long-term decision. I love that factory, and I love the people who work there, and I think they’re doing amazing things in sustainability and ethics in the industry.

• On L.A.: When you think of denim, you think of L.A., just because the culture here is so laid back. It’s so easy to throw on a pair of jeans and a T-shirt. You’re right next to the beach, and it’s [a lot of] cut off shorts and everything like that. It just breathes denim, so I definitely feel like there’s a lot of great influence and inspiration when it comes to the aesthetic of a pair of great jeans and a tank top or a T-shirt here.

ICON DENIM LA

Lucio Mauro founder

On S/S ’25: Our collection is a perfect blend of classic elegance and contemporary comfort. Our denim pieces in refined white are the highlight of the collection, enriched with vibrant yellow accessories that create a striking contrast. This collection captures the essence of a bygone era, recalling the elegance of the past while adapting it to the needs and tastes of modern fashion.

• On sustainability: Sustainability is a cornerstone of our collections. We use ecofriendly materials and sustainable production methods to minimize our environmental impact. Additionally, we ensure fair labor practices throughout our supply chain, reinforcing our commitment to ethical fashion.

• On inspiration: The inspiration for this collection came from a desire to blend timeless elegance with modern comfort. We looked to the sophistication of past decades and reinterpreted it for today’s fashionforward consumers. Regularly, we draw inspiration from various sources, including art, culture and global fashion trends. By observing how people mix and match styles in everyday life, we ensure our designs remain relevant and inspiring.

• On L.A.: L.A.’s vibrant culture and diverse fashion scene greatly influence our design choices. The city’s blend of laid-back and sophisticated styles inspires us to create pieces that reflect this unique vibe. Our designs translate well into global markets by offering adaptable pieces that can be styled for various occasions and climates, appealing to a broad audience.

• On premium denim: For us, premium denim combines exceptional quality, timeless style and sustainable production. It involves producing items that stand the test of time. Premium denim should offer versatility and comfort, making it a staple in any wardrobe while being responsibly produced. ■

LOCAL VALUE

“made in the usa” is a rallying cry that has grown ever louder since the Covid-19 pandemic ground global supply chains to a halt, cutting off American brands from their offshore partners. Over the ensuing years, challenges persisted, with production slowdowns and logistical hiccups prompting U.S. brands to reexamine the sourcing status quo—and revisit the idea of manufacturing stateside. →The concept is far from new for many denim and apparel labels who have long viewed the U.S., and Los Angeles in particular, as home base. Downtown, L.A. and the communities that surround it are home to thousands of mills, dyehouses and garment factories responsible for 83 percent of the country’s apparel production.→But even with buzzwords like “onshoring” on the tongues of many, the reality on the ground reflects a much more nuanced state of affairs for manufacturers.→Elvia Anaya, administrative specialist at Omni Laundry, told Rivet that the upsides of producing in L.A. are readily apparent. “The benefit to doing business in L.A. is the turnaround time,” she said, “and the creativity level is one-of-akind. We have had many customers come to us and are amazed to see their ideas come alive.”

After the pandemic-fueled spike for local production, the Los Angeles denim community adjusts to orders leveling off. by Kate Nishimura

Still, the six-year-old laundry’s business has decreased in recent years, and that unfortunate trend is continuing into 2024. According to Anaya, while brands are still interested in making denim in L.A., other apparel sourcing hubs, like Italy, are pulling market share away from SoCal makers.

Today, Omni provides a variety of services, from wet processing to dry processing like handsanding and whiskering, as well as several dye techniques. While it used to offer novelty washes, like tie-dye, those techniques have fallen by the wayside as brands streamline their offerings.

“For overdyes we are processing 60 percent direct dyes and 40 percent reactive dyes,” Anaya said. She noted that “direct dye takes an additional discharge process to lighten certain areas and seems very popular these days and keeps us busy.”

Omni also operates a small development sewing line for sampling and limited-production runs.

The ebb and flow of demand is being felt across the sector with inflation lingering and consumer confidence on a tentative upswing. But Pakistan-based Artistic Milliners’ recently acquired L.A. wash and finishing facility, Star

Fades International (SFI), is in a period of flow, according to Katie Tague, vice president of global marketing and sales.

“Since the initial Covid-driven nearshoring rush, SFI has observed a shift in the denim manufacturing landscape in Los Angeles. With the increasing demand for local production and the focus on sustainability, there has been a resurgence of interest in Made in the USA denim,” she told Rivet. “Brands are recognizing the value of sourcing locally and supporting domestic manufacturing, leading to a steady increase in business for SFI.”

According to Tague, what sets the business apart is its “comprehensive range of services, from design assistance to global sourcing solutions.”

Recent projects with brands have centered on developing innovative denim that prioritizes sustainability and ethical production—fitting, with California leading the charge for green manufacturing. “The team at SFI is dedicated to helping clients navigate the ever-changing denim industry landscape and create products that resonate with consumers,” she said.

SFI’s Karachi-based parent company, which counts itself

among the largest denim manufacturers in Pakistan, has pioneered ecologically focused vertical production practices and relies on clean energy. There’s a synergy between that longstanding vision and the demands of the American consumer, making SFI’s L.A. business an essential proving ground for the firm’s innovations.

“In the domestic market, there is a growing emphasis on sustainable and ethically sourced denim products. Consumers are increasingly conscious of the environmental and social impact of their clothing choices, driving brands to adopt more sustainable practices,” Tague explained. “This trend is more pronounced in the U.S. compared to the global market, where there is a growing demand for transparency and accountability in the fashion industry.”

company The Evans Group, said.

“There was a spike during and after Covid, which has leveled off, but we still have requests each day for domestic production”—especially true for emerging brands looking for small-batch manufacturing, which is the company’s primary focus, she added.

TEG’s business has grown “significantly” in the years after the pandemic, amplifying its reach.

“We expanded our services to provide a complete one-stop-shop, from design to photoshoots, and have thrived since,” Evans said.

According to the founder, the manufacturer has developed a niche with both new and established high-end designers, having worked with labels like Jonathan Simkhai and Rodarte in the past. “We work on a wide variety of collections within those categories and tailor our services to suit each,” she said.

“We offer a more white-gloved experience to emerging designers, who need more hand-holding throughout the process, and high quality a la carte services for established brands looking for quick, quality work.”

Amid a heightened focus on sustainability, the group has also seen more interest in specialty projects that promote circularity.

“We have seen an uptick in reuse projects, for both emerging and established brands, which aligns with our ethos and services well,” Evans said.

WE OFFER A MORE WHITE-GLOVED EXPERIENCE TO EMERGING DESIGNERS, WHO NEED MORE HANDHOLDING THROUGHOUT THE PROCESS…” Jennifer Evans, TEG

▲

TEG’s business has grown “significantly” in the years after the pandemic.

Acquired in 2021, SFI is a newer venture for Artistic Milliners, and Tague said the company has “learned valuable lessons about doing business in the U.S./L.A. market compared to abroad.” The benefits of having an American outpost include proximity to brands, access to diverse talent, and the ability to respond swiftly to client needs. “Being in L.A. also provides an opportunity to tap into the local creativity and fashion scene, fostering collaborations and innovation,” she added. There are drawbacks, too—and they’re not insubstantial. Operating costs are higher. Competition is stiffer. Regulatory requirements are stringent, and only becoming more complex as the state looks to implement new regulations pertaining to fashion’s impact on the environment.

“Despite these challenges, Artistic Milliners has found that the benefits of being in the U.S. market outweigh the drawbacks, as it allows for closer partnerships with clients, more efficient communication, and a deeper understanding of local market trends and preferences,” Tague said.

Beyond denim, L.A.-based apparel producers report having experienced a lift in business since talk about nearshoring became mainstream.

TEG, a full-service garment manufacturer and developer based in Downtown, L.A.’s Arts District, offers both established and emerging brands help with patternmaking, sampling and cut and sew at a vertically integrated facility.

“Next year, 2025, will be TEG’s 20th year in business. I can say we have seen a steady demand for Made in L.A. production since we started,” Jennifer Evans, founder and CEO of TEG and parent

For example, earlier this year, the manufacturer worked with Los Angeles streetwear retailer Bodega and Nike’s Re-Creation program to release a collection of oneof-a-kind, reimagined products made from reclaimed Nike goods.

The assortment featured apparel, accessories and footwear made from upcycled, archival and deadstock materials.

“These projects take significant time and handling to orchestrate, but allow for unique, forward designs, which we see large demand for domestically,” Evans said.

Such collections illustrate the unique and tough-to-replicate advantages of manufacturing in the City of Angels. Small brands and designers can bring inventive, experimental projects to life without the pressure of high MOQs.

“Doing work in L.A. allows access to a highly skilled labor pool, easy and direct communications, flexibility in services, and clear business practices,” she added.

“For small brands, these are invaluable benefits while they learn the nuances of the process and their businesses.” ■

ALWAYS AHEAD

amy leverton describes herself as a Gen Xer stuck in the mind of a Gen Zer—always looking forward and pushing boundaries. Since her early days in the fashion world, she has had a bit of feistiness to her. → Straight out of fashion school, Leverton worked for an online-only platform as a designer. After leaving, she moved on to Next, which she describes as “the Target of the UK, but a bit more mumsy than that, even.” At the time, her designs pushed the limits and got left out of assortments. But a few years later, she said, the designs that had been cast aside started to make an appearance on racks. →“I remember my old boss texting me…She said, ‘We’re putting all of your garments into work now.’ I was trying so hard to design clothes that were a bit more backward, and it was still too forward for them. But sure enough, in two years’ time, the designs were bang on. [Forecasting] was always in my DNA.”

Leverton later left the design world in favor of forecasting, which gave her more space for zany ideas and future-forward analysis. She began working at trend forecasting company WGSN, and later helped build Stylesight, which eventually merged with WGSN, putting Leverton back at the company where she had started her forecasting career.

For her, while she had enjoyed designing, she quickly found forecasting more gratifying. “There are lots of roles within the fashion, but for me it’s like, I can do other things, but this is what I know I’m really good at,” she said. “Since 2007, I’ve been like, this is it.”

Leverton eventually decided to leave WGSN to move to Los Angeles to freelance and start her own business. Her consultancy,

Denim Dudes, began after she wrote a book with the same name. She decided to create an Instagram account to accompany the book, which she published in 2015.

“Honestly, I started the Instagram feed just because Instagram was in its infancy and I figured, if I’m putting a book out, people might search Instagram for Denim Dudes, so I should just get the handle.”

The Denim Dudes page now has more than 100,000 followers. The book helped her gain notoriety beyond the B2B forecasting space, bringing more of her ideas to consumers and putting her work directly in front of brands. From there, the business started to come together, and Leverton registered Denim Dudes as a company in 2016.

SOCIAL SWITCHES

Apps like Instagram and TikTok have completely modified the denim landscapes—for brands and consultants like Leverton alike, she said. Because of that, Leverton’s approach to forecasting has changed, particularly with the rise of Instagram and TikTok.

“Before [social media], to make a good forecast, you were going to trade shows, seeking out inspiration, then gathering it in and making sense of it and putting it out there. It felt more journalistic,” she said. “I think now…it’s like filtering through the wall of information and making it make sense to people, and we just absolutely love that. It’s honestly like doing a jigsaw puzzle— putting all the elements together in a narrative that makes sense.”

While influencers and others releasing social media content have altered the way the business looks, Leverton said forecasting is a niche business that, particularly for denim, combines a great deal of historical knowledge, current-day trend watching, and expertise.

“We cite all of these different touchpoints that are happening in the world—it could be anything from mob wife aesthetic, to the Barbie movie, to girl dinner. We scoop it all in, and we sift through it and make sense of it,” she said. “Then we drill it down to, when I’m designing my next jean, what do I do? How does girl dinner affect denim design?”

Though Leverton’s work has evolved because of the rise of social media, she said brands’ outlook has changed even more markedly to adapt to Gen Z’s expectations and social media-powered influence.

“10 years ago, brands were telling consumers what they should wear and what they believed to be cool, and as consumers we were like, ‘OK, cool,’” she said. “Now it very much feels like the other way around, so, much like men and the patriarchy, I think brands are sort of navigating this switch of power,” she said. While other generations have, at times, dictated style in the same way, she said she doesn’t foresee Gen Z and millennials reverting to taking direction from brands in the future. She also believes that brands need to be ready to compete with smaller “bedroom makers” as younger generations begin to spend money with smaller creators, rather than exclusively with brands.

BRAND BONDS

Denim Dudes has worked with several brands in the past few years—from Levi’s, to G-Star Raw, to Gap and more. While each brand presents a different set of challenges, Leverton said, by and large, “trends are trends.”

“They’re all such different brands with such different customers and such different DNA. It’s a joy to step inside those shoes. I think, also, as someone who has worked at brands, I understand that when you’re in the day-to-day slog, you don’t have the bandwidth or the ability to step outside of that, and so I think these brands really value outsider perspective,” she said. That perspective comes in a variety of forms, like small, one-off projects to yearslong relationships and candid conversations. In many cases, Leverton helps brands analyze

Trend forecaster Amy Leverton reflects on her work and the industry as she builds out a new business model for her consultancy, Denim Dudes. by Meghan Hall

► Amy Leverton, founder of Denim Dudes.

trends, how they fit into a brand’s heritage and identity and how competitors might embrace them.

Even though Leverton helps brands predict what’s next, her world lacks predictability in terms of the projects that come her way. “I think with trend forecasting, it’s a very broad skill set that you can apply to many different areas. We could be helping someone source trims one day and analyzing fabric and weave construction another and then tackling brand identity the next,” she said.

Leverton has also helped mills design capsule collections over time, but as Denim Dudes starts to change form, she said she wants to focus more on creating content and forecasting. However, she noted that Denim Dudes will still work on certain capsule collections to stay in the loop on what’s happening with specific new fabrics and to continue to be inspired.

BUDDING BUSINESS

For years, Leverton has curated the trend forecast at each Kingpins show, both in New York and Amsterdam.

Her relationship with the trade show began during her time at WGSN, but when Leverton left WGSN and went solo, the show met her with a unique offer: Andrew Olah, Kingpins’ founder, wanted her to complete the trend forecast as a freelancer, and Kingpins would own the content.

That structure worked well for Leverton for many years, but this year, she decided it was time that she owned the forecast herself. That, in part, is because she wants the business to grow rather than continuing to “tread water” in the way she said it has been doing for the past five years.

“It was something I’d wanted to do for a long time,” she said. “The idea is that we would focus more on creating content for a website and selling the subscription model and then building slowly from there.”

Leverton currently has one other full-time employee working with her at Denim Dudes: Shannon Reddy. But if she has her way, that team will expand to help juggle content creation, forecasting, speaking engagements and more.

She hopes that kind of growth will come from adding a subscription model to her business, a project she is actively working on. Her seasonal forecasts would be part of the subscription, alongside other exclusive content and access to her company’s Denim Directory, which focuses on raw material innovation, construction, washes, finishes and more.

I THINK THOSE WHO WORK IN THE DENIM INDUSTRY UNDERSTAND THAT THERE IS A NEED FOR FORECASTING THAT IS SPECIALIZED TO THEM AND THEIR SEGMENT…”

▲ Leverton’s Denim Dudes trend presentations at Kingpins are often filled to capacity.

Leverton knows the subscription-based model could take time to build, but she has aspirations to leverage—and further create—community in the denim realm.

“I don’t expect to build a new, huge WGSN, although you never know—I’m not ruling it out!” she joked. “But personally, I think those who work in the denim industry understand that there is a need for forecasting that is specialized to them and their segment, and I think that we [can] build a platform that fleshes [that] out [based on] our offerings that we have so far,” she said.

Because some of Denim Dudes’ content has been free to access up until this point, Leverton knows she’ll have to be strategic about how she monetizes future content. She said ensuring students and small designers still have access to Denim Dudes’ work is important to her.

“It’s definitely front and center of my mind of just how to make this accessible to all whilst still [allowing] us paying our bills and making sure that those brands who do have the funds do actually pay,” she said.

Leverton has also launched a series of Los Angeles-based events with Erin Barajas, formerly of Kingpins.

“Erin and I go way back and have traveled the world together through past Kingpins events, so we know each other so well and have built a strong friendship

over the years in L.A. We also work very seamlessly together; Erin is a production whiz and our taste levels and creative vision for the events are completely in sync. It’s our absolute focus to put our passion for community and inspiration first and foremost,” Leverton said.

The two call the series Here|After, which Leverton said is a nod to reflecting on the L.A. community now, while also looking to the future. The first event took place in June, and designers from brands like Guess, Good American, True Religion, Paige and Frame Denim attended.

Leverton said she and Barrajas plan to host one Here|After event each season, which will help further elevate the work Denim Dudes does. The duo will focus on a different topic for each discussion and will align with appropriate partners for each iteration of its events.

“What was most overwhelmingly obvious to Erin and me was that L.A. was hungry for community, inspiration and education. We live in complicated and difficult times, and I’ve predominantly viewed our denim industry through the lens of the designer, whose job is becoming more and more challenging,” Leverton said. “The Here|After event series is a natural extension of our forecasts and bringing the audience in on these conversations will only help to strengthen and elevate our work at Denim Dudes.” ■

Q&A

What’s your favorite bar or restaurant in LA? In Silverlake, Botanica Restaurant. There’s also a place that opened recently called Lasita—it’s a bar-restaurant in Chinatown.

What’s your star sign? Pisces.

What’s your favorite season? Personally, I live in the perpetual summer that is L.A., and I love it. But winter is better for forecasts because of all the layering—it’s just more exciting.

What’s the last show you binge watched? Feud: Capote vs. The Swans. It’s so cool, from a fashion standpoint, just seeing how much society and culture and fashion have changed. I mean, gosh, those ladies would not believe what we’re wearing these days!

Is there an album you’ve been loving recently? Everyone’s talking about Charli XCX’s BRAT album and I love how it has impacted mainstream culture, but personally I’ve been more into a bit of Kendrick [Lamar], Billie Eilish and that crazy collab between James Blake and Lil Yachty.

If you could only pick one denim silhouette to wear for the rest of your life, what would it be? I feel like the [Levi’s] 501 really sits at the intersection of every fit—so if skinny is trending, you can get away with a 501. If baggy is trending, you can get away with a 501.

FIXER UPPER

anahit anny adamyan has been repairing Angelenos’ jeans since Y2K was trending the first time.→Denim Revival, formally known as Denim Doctors, launched in 2000 providing simple and basic denim repairs. Adamyan, who began sewing at age 14 and worked as a head pattern maker and head pattern cutter in a factory in her native Albania before coming to the U.S., had more denim knowledge and skills to offer, however. In 2006, she was named Denim Revival’s “original tailor” and in 2010 she bought the business. →Denim Revival now serves as a workshop where customers can peruse the front of the store filled with band tees, military surplus and “essential vintage denim that never goes out of style” and have them altered to their liken in the back. Most bring in their favorite pairs for a wide range of repair and customization services offered by Adamyan and her team.

Los Angeles-based Denim Revival helps clients maintain their favorite pairs of jeans. by Angela Velasquez

▲ Denim Revival offers a wide array of vintage jeans.

Made-tomeasure jeans are made in the store’s workshop.

► Denim Revival draws a Hollywood crowd.

WE’VE LEARNED AND GROWN A LOT TO WHERE WE CAN PRETTY MUCH REPAIR ANY JEAN, ANY STYLE.”

The team can also create madeto-measure jeans and works with a local laundry on washes. “Usually, a customer will bring in a pair they like, and we’ll make a pattern based off that sample, tweak it, make it any kind of design they want,” Adamyan said, adding they pick the fabric and trims.

“We just had a client ask for wide-leg chino style. We did a pair for him in raw denim and another pair that was washed down,” she said.

Repair services span buttons, zippers and rivets replacements to creating new buttonholes and belt loops, replacing pockets and invisible repair to make ripped and worn-in jeans look as close to new as possible. Denim Revival’s

Anahhit Anny Adamyan, Denim Revival

alteration menu covers everything from lowering the waist of jeans and adapting regular styles into maternity ones to tapering the waist, leg and knees—up or down—of jeans.

“We’ve learned and grown a lot to where we can pretty much repair any jean, any style,” Adamyan said.

Repairs are usually “tendency based” and reflect the daily life of the owner. “We have one customer that’s been bringing in the same pair of jeans for 20 years that rips almost in the exact spot every time,” she said.

Adamyan sees more variety in clients’ customization requests, including more nondenim items including ready-to-

wear, outerwear, footwear and even pet apparel.

Recently, the baggy trend has brought in more customers wanting to take in the waist or adjust the length of baggy jeans to perfect the fit. “We’ve also been adding panels on the side to make them wider and baggier. During the summer we were taking a lot of pre-owned and vintage jeans and turning them into skirts. We’ve also been doing a lot of shirt-cropping with a single stitch,” she said.

Being in Los Angeles means brands and Hollywood calls on Adamyan’s expertise. She has worked with RRL, Balmain, YSL, American Rag, Fred Segal and others on various projects. Denim Revival also provided alterations and custom jeans for “The Ellen Show.” Celebrities like Ryan Gosling, Zac Efron, Hilary Swank and Scottie Pippen have also popped in to have work on their jeans, but Adamyan makes time for everyone. “I love my customers. They are very important for me,” she said.

Denim Revival’s client list stretches beyond Tinsel Town. Customers from Florida, New York, London and Sweden send in jeans for repair and customization. Adamyan also keeps a small shop in Las Vegas for alterations, but she said nowhere can be compared to L.A.

“There’s just not enough crazy denim people anywhere else,” she said. ■

RETAIL THERAPY

LOS ANGELES IS THE LAND OF MANY THINGS INCLUDING DENIM. FROM NEW RETAIL CONCEPTS BY PREMIUM LABELS TO DENIM STALWARTS AND A WORLD-RENOWNED FLEA, HERE’S A LOOK AT THE CITY’S MUST-SEE SPOTS TO SHOP FOR JEANS.

The Trading Post Gallery ▲

126 S. LA BREA AVE.

A treasure trove of deadstock, vintage, home goods and apothecary, The Trading Post Gallery offers unique denim pieces with a side of escapisim. The store, owned by Beatrice and Olivier Grasset, combines their love for Native American culture, Japanese aesthetics, vintage finds, Parisian lifestyle, and indigo with their family-owned label, Dr. Collectors. The brand, which collaborates with Mother Denim, specializes in handcrafted, meticulously designed clothing in small, limited runs. No two pieces are exactly alike as each garment is hand dyed.

L’Agence Jean Bar

8436 MELROSE PLACE

L’Agence is stepping deeper into denim. Led by J. Brand co-founder, Jeff Rudes, the brand recently opened the L’Agence Jean Bar, a 1,100-square-foot boutique dedicated to helping customers find their perfect fit. The store leans into personalized service and styling with a curated product offering and innovative denim filtering technology. L’Agence introduced denim in 2018 with three styles—the Margot, Marguerite, and Ruth jeans—which remain bestsellers. Now with 35 styles, fits, and washes, denim is projected to become 50 percent of total revenue for the company by 2025.

American Rag Cie

150 S. LA BREA AVE.

Celebrating its 40th anniversary, American Rag Cie has become an institution and mainstay of California fashion community and a required destination for denim heads. With a stocklist that spans Closed, Hudson, Ksubi, Lee, Levi’s, Naked & Famous, Paige, RRL and many more, founder Mark Werts has built a denim emporium that has a jean for every style and budget. In July, the retailer relaunched its house label, AR321. The “Made in L.A.” brand focuses on sustainable materials and timeless designs like raw denim jeans and western denim shirts made with Cone Denim fabrics.

BLUE BLOOD

nicolai marciano is a blue jeans kind-of-guy who has a very strong interest in sustainability and is also an expert at marketing to Gen Z consumers.→That combination, and as chief new business development officer for Guess Inc., makes him the perfect leader to oversee the roll-out of the company’s new men’s and women’s denim business Guess Jeans. It’s a role that also takes Marciano back to the company’s historical denim roots. → The son of Guess co-founder Paul Marciano, Nicolai is juggling multiple tasks from oversight of the build-out of wholesale accounts to opening brand-dedicated concept stores to ensuring the brand line incorporates vintage Guess elements from the 1980s. He is also checking off the boxes connected to sustainable elements in every feature of the jeans line. →“Sustainability and performance will play a large part in the dialogue,” Nicolai said about Guess Jeans.→Here, Nicolai shares his vision for Guess Jeans, the impact of Guess Airwash technology, and what’s coming up for the new denim brand.

Rivet: Guess Jeans utilizes Guess Airwash technology. How does Guess Airwash work?

Nicolai Marciano: What makes Guess Airwash technology, developed in collaboration with our longtime partners Jeanologia, unique compared to eco-finishing processes of the past is the special way we are using the combination of our machines—e-flow, ozone, and laser—to give an authentic vintage looking product that Guess has become famous for. We accomplish the stonewash look without any stones, up to 80 percent less water consumption, less manual processes for our workers, along with many other advantages we see in our actual production.

Every piece of denim in the Guess Jeans collection is processed with this technology. We are also introducing some other sustainable finishing and dye processes for other categories in our future collections which we are extremely excited about. We are committed to having every element from trims, labels to packaging carry some form of sustainability

from using recycled materials, organic and regenerative fibers and toxic free inks.

Rivet: How differently does Guess Jeans think about sustainability compared with other products in the Guess Inc. assortment?

NM: Guess is committed to sustainability in a big way. For Guess Eco collection we have certain rules for the products to qualify, but with Guess Jeans we have taken the efforts much further down into every detail of the collection.

All fabrics must have a certain amount of organic, regenerative or recycled fibers, all metal hardware is up to 90 percent recycled alloy, all denim is processed through Guess Airwash, all packaging is 100 percent recycled paper, threads are made of recycled polyester and [we only use] PVC free inks. Now that we have proven that it is possible to inject this level of eco-friendly processes and materials into a collection, we are pushing to continually improve these numbers with all our suppliers.

Rivet: Guess Jeans in May opened its first store in Amsterdam. A second store opened in Berlin in July. Describe the retail concept. What was your thinking in designing the visual identity for the brand?

NM: The Guess Jeans overall retail concept is rooted in the California landscape. A combination of materials, vegetation, and lights that all pay homage to Southern California—the birthplace of Guess—forms the basis of the Guess Jeans retail concept. Sustainable, interesting, and honest materials are at the very core of the retail design concept.

Our Melrose flagship store is scheduled to open early next year, and the Tokyo Guess Jeans flagship will launch in the spring. All the stores will be built out using similar materials and concept, but each store will have its own element of localization, specific to the city it is in. The Amsterdam store features blue tiling that pays homage to Delfts Blauw, chosen for both its narrative and its beauty.

In Berlin, we decided to focus on the world-famous U-Bahn… We particularly referenced the Rosenthaler Platz station and its orange tiles, applying them to fixtures and walls.

Another homage to the famous underground system is a custom

WE ARE COMMITED TO HAVING EVERY ELEMENT FROM TRIMS, LABELS TO PACKAGING CARRY SOME FORM OF SUSTAINABILITY.”

▲ ▼ Guess Jeans uses next-gen technologies to achieve vintage aesthetics.

carpet which acts as flooring to the Guess Originals section of the store and mimics the very recognizable upholstery of the older subway trains. We will draw different inspiration in each city.

Rivet: Guess Jeans was recently featured as pop-ups at the Galleries Lafayette in France, as well in La Rinascente in Milan. Tell me about these installations and are more similar pop-ups planned?

NM: Supporting our wholesale partners has been a big focus for us since launching the brand. With the line being so new it’s been important for us to show up where we can, to help drive brand awareness around the Guess Jeans story. We’ve been using these popups as an opportunity to tell the story of Guess Airwash.

Rivet: How do you plan to market Guess Jeans to grow its target customer base?

NM: Quality product, quality communication, and community building. ■

Nicolai Marciano, chief new business development officer for Guess Inc., on balancing heritage and sustainability. by Vicki M. Young

◄ Guess Inc.’s Nicolai Marciano.

IT’S IN THE DETAILS

How does a denim brand stand out in a sea of blue? Creative directors and marketers would argue it’s the brand’s DNA and the story it communicates through its designs. For visually driven consumers, however, it may come down to a cool button, patch or printed pocket.

Small yet mighty, brands are paying closer attention to trims as they play a key role in a garment’s durability, functionality and aesthetic.

“Clients want trims that complement the denim fabric, contribute to the garment’s style, and align with their brand identity,” said Alessandro Marchesini, head of sales at Cadicagroup SpA. This attention to detail carries into other branding opportunities like low-impact packaging, which he said enriches the customer’s experience.

With denim being an iconic everyday staple that has endured decades of fashion trends and social and economic divides, Andrea Cappa, ACM fashion designer, said what often makes a denim garment unique is the trims. “What customers often ask us is to help make their garment unique or distinctive,” he said.

“They turn to us for buttons, rivets and leather labels that can distinguish their product from others or make it recognizable at first glance.”

“Today’s consumers are increasingly attentive to the products they buy, and accessories are no exception; in fact, they can be decisive in their choice,” said Nantas Montonati, head of sales and marketing for Oerlikon Luxury, which acquired coated metal accessories company, Riri, in 2023. When it comes to denim, he said customers look for details that allow a luxury garment to stand out from a commodity product, adding how “that detail can make the end consumer fall in love with it and convince them to make that garment their own.”

Trim manufacturers deliver on the market’s demand for more sustainable and higher-quality products. by Angela Velasquez

SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS

Though trims are a small part of the jeans’ overall production, Laura Ciccarello, Trimco business development manager, U.S., said one sustainable trim can have a large environmental impact for a high-volume brand. “Many major brands we are working with are looking for functional yet sustainable trims. Even massmarket brands that cannot make a 100 percent sustainable trim commitment yet are already starting with a few items, which is a big step in the right direction,” she said.

Trimco’s ProductDNA platform is one way for brands to track their sustainable material usage, sustainability goals, and factory certifications. From supply chain mapping and packaging, the tool collects information allowing brands to support their green claims with data and prepare for digital product passport initiatives. Ciccarello added that ProductDNA reports have “amazed many brands” by showing “how choosing to go sustainable on a single item really adds up over one year.”

Trimco’s sustainable products span labels with CiCLO, an additive to help polyester and nylon break down like natural fibers, to products made with Raddis

regenerative cotton and tags printed with Living Ink’s algae ink.

Over the past few years, Ciccarello said there has been a consistent demand for leather alternatives. Trimco offers a variety of repurposed agriculture waste materials that wash quite nicely, including cactus leather and apple PU, which uses apple pulp that it’s not usable for regular consumption.

“It’s dried up into a powder and then mixed with PU. The raw materials can be pulled from anywhere in the world we have the apple waste. Wherever apples are being pressed for juice, cider, or apple sauce, there are raw materials to make apple PU,” she said.

Though the durability of materials, such as cactus, eggshells, coffee grounds and paper, is lower than leather, Ciccarello said they are still full of potential for denim.

“It is difficult but possible, and our collections are full of ideas to solve these challenges,” she said.

“Sustainable trims must withstand denim finishing, washing, and natural wear. Finding materials that balance durability and eco-friendliness is a challenge,” Marchesini said.

Most of Cadica’s trims are designed to align with the principles of circular fashion, but

Marchesini said it takes technical expertise, investments in R&D and collaborations with suppliers to make it happen. The Italian company prioritizes materials like organic cotton, recycled polyester and Tencel, and innovative alternatives like Piñatex derived from pineapple fibers. Cadica has also developed programs that allow customers to recycle their material production waste and use it in future collections.

YKK’s mono-material detachable button and rivet are designed specifically for circular systems. “They are designed to be easily removed from the garment at the end of its life to allow for the garment to be recycled. The detached button and rivet can then be recycled back into feedstock for reuse,” said Brian La Plante, senior manager of sustainability for YKK (U.S.A.) Inc. global marketing group.

The circular products align with YKK’s sustainability roadmap, which targets carbon neutrality by 2050. La Plante said the ratio of YKK products using sustainable materials has reached 38 percent of all product sales and the company has set a target in FY2024 to increase the ratio to 51 percent. The firm’s AcroPlating technology, which eliminates harmful substances like cyanide, chromium, and selenium,

► Cadica references historical graphics.

▼ Polished metals and refined shapes are part of Oerlikon’s new collection.

is also having a positive impact. La Plante said it reduces greenhouse gas emissions by 96 percent, water usage by 66 percent, and electricity consumption by 69 percent compared to conventional methods.

Next, YKK is working on a new version of 3Y denim zipper that will have a lower environmental footprint, particularly regarding water use.

Cost remains the biggest hurdle in scaling sustainability trims, according to Thibault Greuzat, sales manager for Dorlet. “Unfortunately, in the difficult period when consumption is slow, customers are focusing on price. This is really challenging because we keep on trying to promote more sustainable trims but at the same time we need to keep competitive price. Finding the right mix between design, shape and sustainability is really the main challenge today,” he said.

The French company continues to plug away, however, with the Tackat, the first removable button for jeans that can be attached to garment with existing machines. The button can be easily removed when the jean is ready to be recycled, streamlining the recycling process and reducing textile waste.

Oerlikon takes a 360-degree look at sustainability, from materials

and processing to product endof-life. Buttons made from a single material like stainless steel or brass contained up to 50 and 80 percent recycled content, respectively.

“Surface treatments also play a crucial role in the garment’s final sustainability balance,” Montonati said. Oerlikon uses a physicalvapor-deposition technique that “significantly reduces the impact on the environment.”

Working with mostly exclusive “made in Italy” suppliers provide Vivolo with greater efficiency and control over its supply chain.

Materials that are GRS, FSC and OekoTex certified are part of the company’s collection. Matteo Vivolo, the company’s chief sales officer, added that its R&D team also researches organic, recycled, recyclable, compostable, vegan, animal-free and solvent-free materials.

“This, however, is only a small part of Vivolo’s commitment to sustainability,” he said, adding that the company was born almost 50 years ago with the idea of recovering waste materials from leather goods and transforming them into new fashion items. The company spreads this circular mindset by collaborating with schools and sponsoring projects dedicated to raising awareness of reuse and recycling.

ACM is focused on the origin of materials and introducing more plant-based products. For the past few seasons, the Italian company has been GRS-certified, which Cappa said guarantees the use of recycled zama and brass products. Additionally, the company’s portfolio spans alternative materials and natural products from certified, bio-based or recycled sourcing to alternatives to leather.”

“The end product is the most visible part, but we believe that from a sustainability perspective, the commitment has to start upstream: from the factory and its processes, the working conditions of the employees, and the relationship with its suppliers,” he said. “So we try to make sure that everything behind the individual collection is consistent with our principles.”

Cotswold Industries recently launched the Product Integrity platform to ensure each of its products is traceable to the fiber level. Currently, the pocketing supplier is a partner of the US Cotton Trust Protocol and uses Unifi’s Repreve branded recycled polyester. The vertically integrated U.S. manufacturer is also on working on projects with several circular fiber companies to introduce more second-life fibers into the eco-system.

“Our customers are looking for value-driven products that combine performance with sustainability,” said James McKinnon, Cotswold Industries CEO. “Cotton traceability and recycled synthetic materials are key to ensuring of our customers’ garments meet the transparency threshold need for the future.”

EYE CANDY

Lifestyle trends are also influencing trim designs.

For pocketing, McKinnon said performance stretch continues to be important to all garment categories. He added that comfort-driven garments demand innovation in pocketing and interlinings “so that every season is fresh and garments have added value.”

After several season with more authentic or vintage look Greuzat said Dorlet is seeing demand grow for “pure and clear” finish and design. “Designs are less complex. We are focusing on the reading of the logo with fluid design,” he said.

Natural and neutral colorways continue to be in demand as they reinforce the idea that a garment has longevity. Vivolo anticipates a “very tactile” fall and winter season with trends for soft-touch suede, leather and shades of brown and other neutrals.

Brands are becoming more daring with color, however. “I think brands and consumers are looking for some positivity and fashion has the power to paint the world in a

I THINK BRANDS AND CONSUMERS ARE LOOKING FOR SOME POSITIVITY AND FASHION HAS THE POWER TO PAINT THE WORLD IN A BETTER COLOR”

better color,” Ciccarello said, adding how Trimco’s vibrant color shifts and gradient effects create fun and fluid looks.

Vintage is dominating ACM’s collections and proposals, Cappa said. “This is also reflected in the choice of accessories and treatments. Among the most sought-after and innovative effects are brushing on shiny galvanics to achieve a vintage yet luxury effect, and dark finishes on wavy surfaces that recall the dirty, through rough and matte effects,” he said.

Bandanas and small foulards in various materials are emerging as popular add-ons with some of Cadica’s major denim customers.

“Graphics and [designs] are endless, from iconic and historical artwork to new seasonal capsules,” Marchesini said, adding how the flourishes take a denim outfit from casual to formal.

The influence of quiet luxury lingers. Oerlikon’s forecast for 2025 includes a “strong return of resilient luxury, leaving behind complex moments to reassert itself in its timeless aesthetic that

reflects the heritage of the brands,” Montonati said. “Trims are iconic and immediately recognizable through their straightforward and clean design. The color palette is naturally subdued, featuring polished precious metals and minimalist refined shapes.”

Interest in stainless steel is growing, especially as it is recyclable and resistant to oxidation, resulting in a lower environmental impact, he added.

Silver and copper plating finish colors are still among the most preferred from YKK’s clients, along with natural finishes. Where brands often differ is in the surface appearance of metal trims—some opt for softer more burnished finishes while others choose rougher, more distressed looks as if scratched by stone.

“The surface appearance and plating quality are the key criteria for customers when selecting items,” La Plante said. “Customers are shifting from inexpensive trims to higher quality ones that have a premium finish and match their product quality.” ■

Laura Ciccarello, Trimco

LASER VISION

founder and CEO Enrique Silla looks back on 25 years of laser finishing innovation. by Angela

famously, blue jeans have remained relatively unchanged since their inception 150 years ago. Despite consumers’ evolving lifestyles and seasonal trends, the riveted design Jacob W. Davis patented in 1873 remains the industry standard for durable, functional and timeless style. The story couldn’t be any more different behind the scenes, however. Driven by 21st-century factors like cost and speedto-market, and aligned with the industry’s sustainability awakening, denim is benefiting from an innovation renaissance.

Jeanologia’s laser technology is one of those game-changing innovations.

Since 1999, laser technology has transformed the jeans industry by eliminating harmful processes for workers, reducing operational costs, and improving environmental impact, while pioneering completely new ways for creativity. The finishing technology acts as a thermal source that eliminates the indigo dye of denim fabrics by sublimation, which means evaporating dye from solid to gaseous form through heat. It can create holes, tears, fraying and punctures, replacing timeconsuming manual techniques.

The technology also has a wow factor with consumers, as the laser’s flame dances over the denim fabric without destroying it.

From barely-there whiskers, vintage washes and naturallooking abrasions to logos, artwork and repeated patterns to texture and destruction that pushes denim into a whole new dimension, the technology is unique in that it can deliver on nearly everything the market demands and designers dream up.

Enrique Silla, Jeanologia CEO and founder, said the initial goal of laser technology remains the same today: to completely transform the way dry processes are done in denim production. Before laser, the primary method for dry processing was sandblasting, which was extremely unethical and dangerous for workers.

“Our goal was to revolutionize dry processing, replacing not only sandblasting but also potassium permanganate spray and manual scraping. This has remained a core purpose of using laser technology,” Silla said. “The laser’s ability to reduce water and chemical use

aligns perfectly with the increasing importance of sustainable practices in the industry. So, while the original purpose remains, its relevance and impact have only strengthened as sustainability has become a critical focus.”

Silla and José Vidal, who died in 2020, established Jeanologia in 1994 as a consultancy to transform how jeans were produced by eliminating water, chemicals, contamination, and waste from the production process. Though its clientele included 120 laundries and spanned more than 100 countries, Silla said its reach was limited by the technology that was available to the denim market at that time.

“We strongly believe that the way a product is manufactured is part of its DNA,” Silla said. “From our beginnings in 1994 until 1999, we realized that while we could reduce the environmental impact of denim production by 10 percent, 20 percent or even 50 percent through

consulting, we could never make a significant industry-wide impact.”

In 1999, the company decided it needed to create new technologies—not just new processes—and that’s when Jeanologia’s journey with laser technology began. Silla said the idea originated from Jeanologia’s pursuit of a system to locally wear and age jeans perfectly and quickly, without using water or chemicals.

“Our technical team came up with the idea of sublimation, where the indigo dye would transition from solid to gas directly, without using water, which required energy,” he said.

“During a visit to a car factory, we noticed that lasers were already being used for ablation, removing paint and dye from speedometer panels. This inspired us to test the technology on denim, and we saw it could work.”

This led the company to embark on a project called Tattoo Jeans, the idea that designers could

▲ Laser technology has transformed the way dry processes are done in denim production.

► Jeanologia has sold more than 5,000 laser units.

tattoo designs onto jeans. Later, the company realized it was also effective for creating vintage finishes.

Though there was a “small boom” in 2001 when other companies tried to enter the market with their lasers, Silla said many abandoned their efforts due to the initial challenges, like achieving a natural look and the technology’s early failures.

“When lasers started becoming a significant trend again, these companies returned to the market. Their competition with Jeanologia helped us improve our product and build trust among manufacturers who now had several options and brands to choose from for their production processes,” he said.

BREAKTHROUGH MOMENTS

It took Jeanologia about 10 years to perfect the technology and prove its legitimacy as a scalable solution for finishing.

From 1999-2008, Silla recalled some resistance from designers because they thought laser effects on denim didn’t look natural.

“They were right. At the time, we didn’t realize how we couldn’t compromise on the look. We also underestimated how difficult it would be to change the mindset of designers who saw technology as opposed to artisanal and handmade,” he said.

A pivotal moment came in 2008 when Jeanologia launched an exhibition called “Truth & Light” in Paris, Munich, Tokyo, Sao Paulo and New York. “We demonstrated how to achieve real vintage finishes with lasers,” Silla said. “It was then that designers understood the potential of laser technology. When designers started to see it as a new tool for tech-artisan collaboration rather than an enemy, the technology truly took off.

Commercially, the most decisive moment came in 2018 when Levi’s introduced Project F.L.X., a digital operating model that uses technology, including Jeanologia’s laser, in the design and development of denim finishing.

Concurrently, Fast Retailing Group established a laser development center in Los Angeles, signaling a critical industry-wide shift towards adopting laser technology as indispensable.

Jeanologia

Velasquez

CHANGING ENTRENCHED MINDSETS IN LONGSTANDING INDUSTRIES REQUIRES TIME, EFFORT AND PROACTIVE LEADERSHIP.”

Enrique Silla, Jeanologia

LASER POINTS

JEANOLOGIA’S PLAN TO IMPROVE LASER TECHNOLOGY.

Laser technology has already revolutionized denim production by eliminating hazardous processes for people and the planet. It has also unleashed creativity, making it the favored tool of luxury and mass fashion brands.

However, Silla believes that true transformation lies ahead. “The pivotal shift will be leveraging lasers for on-demand production, where each consumer can specify the finish they desire on their garment, and production occurs only after the item is sold,” he said, adding that this could manifest through customization chosen by the consumer or by designers launching virtual models that are produced upon purchase.

There are also aspects of laser technology that Silla aims to improve. Here’s a look at what is on the exec’s to-do list.

PRODUCTIVITY

Greater automation will improve the productivity of laser technology. “I still observe too many people manually handling pants in laser rooms. This task should be automated with robots. Automating the loading and unloading processes will enable us to fully automate our industry and reduce the need to constantly seek cheaper labor in different countries,” he said.

QUALITY

“Regarding quality, we have identified room for improvement, particularly in achieving precise marking on very dark finishes,” Silla said. To address this challenge, Jeanologia is introducing a technology this year that will integrate lasers with atmospheric (G2 ozone) washes to achieve authentic looks on dark denim.

ROBUSTNESS

Since lasers rely heavily on electronics, Silla said ensuring durability in production environments characterized by high humidity and high temperature, which is prevalent in many production countries, is critical.

“We are actively developing our Super Technology program to enhance all these aspects of our laser systems, making them even more efficient and resilient,” he said.

At the time of launch, Levi’s touted Project F.L.X. as a solution to create a more responsive and sustainable supply chain, reduce lead times from more than six months down to weeks or days, and slash the number of chemical formulations used in its finishing processes from thousands to just a few dozen. Using Jeanologia’s laser, Levi’s said it would reduce finishing time from two to three pairs per hour to 90 seconds per garment, followed by a final wash cycle.

“From the very beginning, Levi’s has been instrumental in investing in and passionately supporting the development of our laser technology,” Silla said.

Receiving votes of confidence from behemoths like Levi’s and Fast Retailing altered the arc of Jeanologia’s story. However, Silla describes the earliest adopters as “the silent soldiers who helped make this transformation a reality.”

“I fondly remember our first customers when production was still strong in Europe, especially in Italy,” Silla said. “Our very first client was Ingeniero Cosiri, a laundry processing 40,000 garments a day in Italy, known as Itac. They were the first to believe in our technology.” Additionally, Sartex in Tunisia, Coudon in France and Morocco (which no longer exists), and Pizarro in

Portugal took a leap to use the technology. “These companies, along with Levi’s plants in Laresa, Lavapan, and Lirsa, which had three laundries in Spain at the time, were the first to use our laser technology in Europe,” he said.

“We are deeply grateful to these pioneers who believed in the technology and the need for change. Their support was crucial when we were a consultancy company manufacturing and selling machines globally,” Silla said. “Our first 120 machines went to 70 different countries, making it extremely challenging to manage.”

NEXT PHASE

Jeanologia has sold more than 5,000 laser units to better than 1,000 companies operating in 78 countries.

Among the company’s largest clients—those with over 100 lasers—include Crystal Group, a Hong Kong-Chinese corporation with facilities in Cambodia, China and Vietnam, and Pacific Jeans, recognized not only for being the first to introduce lasers to Bangladesh but also as a major supplier to Fast Retailing worldwide. Additionally, Silla said Artistic Milliners in Pakistan “holds substantial importance for us.”

▲ Jeanologia’s Truth & Light exhibition in 2008 demostrated how to achieve vintage finishes with laser.

In Mexico, VF Corporation and Kontoor are noteworthy clients. Silla noted that Egypt is emerging as a significant denim sourcing market with companies like Lotus and international players such as Taypa Turkey and Eroglu establishing strong presences there. It has taken Jeanologia 25 years to transform the industry, with 50 percent of global denim production now utilizing its laser technology. Silla anticipates that number will reach 100 percent within the next five years. “Developing and establishing expertise in a new technology typically spans a minimum of 10 years, and shortcuts are hard to come by,” he said.

As brands and retailers face challenges to quickly integrate innovations across their supply chains, Silla said progress for any new technology can be frustratingly slow. However, wading it out and allowing the industry to catch up to its technology may go down as one of Jeanologia’s greatest strengths.

“The most important advice I can offer is this: Take your time. When we launched our technology in 1999, it promised a return on investment of approximately 1-2 years, it was visually appealing and easy to apply, yet it took us 25 years to fully implement it,” he said. “Patience and perseverance are key. You must believe in your vision and remain steadfast. Changing entrenched mindsets in longstanding industries requires time, effort, and proactive leadership. Brands will support your initiative, but true leadership often needs to come from within.” ■

TO THE RESCUE

jeans have come a long way from the utilitarian indigo-dyed, fivepocketed and copper-riveted numbers that Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis hawked to California’s gold miners in 1873. With a dizzying array of fits, fabrications, finishes and treatments jostling for the broadest possible appeal across the mass-class divide, basic denim has become anything but basic. And therein lies the challenge. →“It’s not only chemicals but fabrics are also changing a lot; there are new blends: recycled cotton, organic cotton, all these new kinds of fibers as well,” said Luca Braschi, technology marketing manager at Soko Chimica, a Florence, Italy-based company that supplies chemicals for manufacturing garments and textiles, including denim. “They need special care and cannot be treated like conventional ones.”

Soko Chimica is part of a new breed of supplier that wants to do more than churn out products to spec. In 2021, the company launched the Innovation Hub, an R&D center that develops solutions and processes to minimize garment production’s impact on the environment while improving the final result’s quality and efficacy. The need for a fuller suite of services, however, led to the creation of the Projects Division earlier this year. The idea behind the latter is to carve out a space for clients to co-create products in an “almost symbiotic manner” from the start rather than solve issues after the fact, Braschi said. This could be anything from using green chemistry to design a new fabric

More suppliers are extending design and R&D resources to clients. by Jasmin Malik Chua

effect to improving a washing process’s environmental score—preferably without racking up additional expenses.

Soko Chimica isn’t the only firm evolving its offerings. February saw the debut of AGI Denim’s The Agency, an in-house creative arm meant to serve as a “one-stop shop” for buyers of the vertical denim manufacturer’s textiles and finished garments. Pakistan’s first B Corp has already been doing much of this work pro bono, said Carl Chiara, its global creative director. It only made sense to formalize the arrangement, particularly as more brands are trimming their workforces amid current economic headwinds, leaving gaps in knowledge and perspective that suppliers have had to fill.

WE’RE TRYING TO HELP DESIGNERS GET TO THE ANSWERS FASTER.”

Carl Chiara, AGI Denim/The Agency

“I think that more and more brands are looking at the suppliers as the experts,” Chiara said. “A lot of design teams are really young and I think that a lot of them are just learning and so we’re actually able to help with that aspect of things. We’re trying to help designers get to the answers faster.”

Some customers have specific briefs; others might have requests that sound more like ChatGPT prompts.

“A brand might be like, ‘Oh we want to launch a new denim line for a teenage guy,’” he said. “We could go in and do a full-on immersive analysis of what’s the white space here? What is this guy about? What fits and fabrics and washes would be a compelling proposition for him? How would it differentiate from what’s on the floor? And then we could go into SKUs and fabrics and cost and build out an entire collection. We can go into prototyping. We can do all the development. We can go into full-on scaled production. We can also do the trims and packaging.”

In many ways, this burgeoning buyersupplier relationship is not so much about “teaching” or “helping” but about “co-creation,” said Marco Lucietti, director of strategic projects at Turkey-based Sanko Group’s Isko division, the world’s largest denim producer.

Lucietti sees Isko as a trailblazer in this mode of collaboration, particularly in the denim space. Since 2011, Isko has operated a Creative Room in Italy that it bills as a “fully integrated garment provider” of services from yarn development to design and sampling to laundry and finishing. It also doubles as a creative sales center, though the goal is not so much to sell more products than to offer more choices to consumers.

“It’s part of a broader strategic design of offering creative services to clients,” he said. “Customers appreciate it. It’s an added-value service that is making Isko more than a fabric supplier—to be a solutions provider. I think it’s a smart move by our friends in the market to follow the path we opened a few years ago.”

Until recently, Isko operated another Creative Room in London, where massive washing machines thrummed and advanced laser engravers sizzled. It closed over the summer as Sanko Group poured more of its resources into establishing Re&Up, a new initiative to

recycle cast-off clothing into “next-gen” cotton and polyester. Isko has been flying its clients from the United Kingdom to Italy so they can access the same services there. Lucietti said that the closure of the London hub was less of a financial decision than one to “concentrate on what we are good at.”

“The choice of losing Creative Room London was mainly connected to the fact that we have been reducing our garment services to customers,” he said. “And this hub was mainly meant to serve the needs of the garment division. We have a long-lasting tradition of being weavers and spinners of raw materials—that’s our DNA.”

At Soko Chimica, the people speaking to clients have to be multilingual—and not just in terms of the actual languages spoken.

“With technical people there’s a technical language, with designers there is a different kind of language,” Braschi said. “So there are different approaches.”

◄ ▲ The Agency provides clients with design support and consumer insights.

▼ Clients can tap into The Agency’s extensive library of laser, finishing and dye techniques.

There is also the language of finance, an existential challenge when geopolitical conditions are “not so positive,” as he put it. At the same time, speeds to market keep contracting. Creative high-performing products at an affordable price in as short a time possible is something all suppliers must wrestle with.

“But we should never stop; otherwise, we go backward,” Braschi said. “So we keep on walking and being always positive. And we like challenges.”

Working this way is also influencing the trajectory of the industry. Because of the need to push products through quickly, denim purveyors need to join forces like they’ve never before. Even chemical companies cannot go on providing the same services they were decades ago.

“It is like cooking,” he said. “Before we were just supplying the eggs to make a cake. Now we have to give the whole cake.” ■

COMMON GROUND

despite its controversial history , denim has always been a symbol of change. The fabric’s versatility made it the favorite of the generational voices of the ’60s, the decade marked by a revolution in dress codes, coining the term “Youthquake.” The movement caused a seismic shift in cultural norms, especially in fashion, for decades. As younger voices shunned high fashion exclusivity in favor of a more expressive, inclusive and politically conscious cultural conversation, they adopted denim as the ultimate equalizer of gender and social status. Denim became a symbol of social and political change.

1 Gloria Steinem attends an event during the 1972 Democratic National Convention in Miami.

Jesse Jackson being interviewed at the 1976 Democratic National Convention New York City.

Actor Warren Beatty attends the 1972 Democratic National Convention in Miami, Florida.

Senator Robert F. Kennedy attends a rafting competition in Glens Falls, New York in 1967.

5 Jane Fonda at the Time Life party during the 1976 Democratic Convention in New York City.

6 Supporter at a Shirley Chisholm presidential campaign party at Richard Feigen’s New York art gallery in 1972.

How denim became the unofficial uniform of political changemakers. by Tonya Blazio-Licorish

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