So Vain - Issue 3 (Spring 2012)

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Issue n.03 MARCH 2012

IT’S A

man’s world SO VAIN magazine mar 2012 1

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CONTENTS ELETS C A R B LY 3 LOVE !

AWAY E V I G IN OUR com . e n i z a GO ON g

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Fashion 08 Fashion Flash: big news in small doses 10 Star Style 14 Tilda Swinton 17 Brogues 20 Lea T. 22 Blazer 24 Cover story: It’s a man’s world 32 Editorial: A walk into spring

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Man Androgynous in Menswear Marni 4 H&M Spring for men

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Beauty Androgynous in Make-up Spring, colours and textures Nail Trends

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ANDROGYNOUS ISSUE

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SO VAIN Issue n.03 MARCH 2012

SO VAIN team Editor-in-chief and Fashion editor

Stephanie Reed

stephanie@sovainmagazine.com Beauty Editor

Simona Serpellini

beauty@sovainmagazine.com

IT’S A

man’s world Ph: Enzo Furloni Stylist: Stephanie Reed MUA: Simona Serpellini Model: Emma Sala

Man Editor

Dario Bentinvegna man@sovainmagazine.com Fashion Columnists

Claudia Sirchia

For more information about the So Vain Team, visit www.sovainmagazine.com Graphic designer Cinzia Scarsi

Follow us on:

If you want to collaborate with us, send and email to stephanie@sovainmagazine.com

For your publicity on So Vain: adverts@sovainmagazine.com 4 SO VAIN magazine mar 2012

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Contributor’s letter

Our special contributor Laura Portomeo presents this androgynous issue.

The trend of this year is the androgynous look, that mix of clothes and makeup that makes women look so similar to men (and viceversa) yet so ethereal and distant.

Go ahead then with shirts, tuxedos, pied de poule, Prince of Wales prints and checks, framed by a make up that enhances a white and perfect complexion, straight, well defined eyebrows, a lot of mascara and scarlet or nude lips.

Even celebrities have left the long gowns and started to wear on the red carpet looks typically inspired by this new trend. We see for example Rihanna, Evan Rachel Wood, or Victoria Beckham.

But during the summer catwalks of Paris, the one who has attracted the most attention was Andrej Pejic, a Serb-Croat model who has such feminine features to be mistaken by most of the public for a blond girl. So feminine as to be inserted in the magazine FHM’s top 100 sexiest women in the world, peaking at number 98.

And so, one after the other, all the designers have proposed their own version of the androgynous look, from Giorgio Armani, to Alexander McQueen, to Bottega Veneta and Costume National. The common feature for all these brands is to show a self-confident woman, who is at the same level as men also with clothes, keeping that mix of sweetness and sensuality that sets her apart from him.

Even Chanel, when last July reaffirmed the beautiful Keyra Knightley as the face of Coco Mademoiselle, has dressed the young and beautiful actress in black and white, long gloves and the breast was hidden only by braces: a very androgynous look that is well suited to the carved face of Knightley.

If once upon a time the concept of “androgynous” was linked to a challenge of women to choose a masculine look and prove themselves at the same level as men, now the difference between man and woman is getting thinner. Just think of the care that men now spend on their appearance, the hair removal creams and even makeup.

Women are already over the tuxedo phase, which was perfect for all those who had a typically male career and wanted to feel at the same level (and especially not to be considered as less than men).

Let us then, now, welcome ties and braces in our wardrobes, without forgetting to add a feminine touch to our outfits.

Laura Portomeo SO VAIN magazine mar 2012 5

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CONTRIBUTORS

AILERA STONE Fashion photographer I am 20 years old photographer from Lithuania, living and studying photography in London since this autumn. I always liked to escape into other worlds through books, movies and music, but I found out that the best way to do that is by taking pictures. My photography is a way to capture moments and make them magical, bring the dreams into this world.

- A suggestion for those who would like to enter this world...

If you really want it, you have to be persistent. You should never give up and do what makes you happy.

- The fashion photographer whose work you admire the most Paolo Roversi, Tim Walker, Sølve Sundsbø, Bruno Dayan, Paul de Luna.

My website: http://www.ailerastone.com

ALLEGRA CONTOLI Fashion journalist After the classic Liceo, I started a degree in modern languages. Fashion and writing are my two biggest passions and my dream would be to become a fashion editor one day.

- A suggestion for those who would liketo enter this world...

The fashion world is in constant transformation, this is why it’s important to always be up-to-date with the latest trends, following websites and blogs, especially international ones, to have a global vision of the fashion system.

- The must-have for this Spring/Summer: Big and colourful earrings, with decorations, and minidresses in pastel colours.

But above all, the short suits, a tuxedo made with a jacket and shorts. Elegant and sexy!

Website: you can follow Allegra on www.sovainmagazine.com

ALESSANDRA PEPE Fashion blogger I’m (almost) 26 and I’m a web editor and a blogger.

I’m a creative account in an ADV agency and I have a great passion for all that is fashion, art, design and craftsmanship. I obtained my degree two years ago in Theories and Methods of Communication in Milan and since then I immediately started working in the web, first as a social media specialist and later as editor and publisher. I write for my personal blog and I collaborate with the editors of many other websites and magazines.

- A suggestion for those who would liketo enter this world...

For those who want to enter the world of the web writing, I would recommend looking for the real elements that sets your personal style apart from all the others.

The competition is fierce, you have to offer readers something different than usual. Also you should never stop searching, reading, inform yourself and follow your instincts as a cool hunter.

- The must-have for this Spring/Summer: For me it will be a green accessory, such as a satchelbag British style to use both at work and in the weekend.

My website: www.momastyle.com

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MARIANNA DE LUCA fashion blogger

I’m at the last year in a tourism school, but my passions are really the opposite from what I’m studying right now.

As soon as I finish school, I’m planning on going to London to study and work. My biggest dream would be to become a fashion stylist in one of the most famous agencies in the U.K., which works for several tv programs and dresses many stars.

- A suggestion for those who would like to enter this world...

Don’t rush. It is very important to study and do many internships. Don’t just open a blog in the hopes of skipping some of these passages - The must-have for this Spring/Summer Floral patterns! It’s a pattern that comes back every year, but it really reminds us of Spring and Summer!

My website: blogspot.com

www.stylestarmjonas.

ALESSANDRO MASETTI Fashion blogger After my grammar school degree I decided to study architecture at Florence University aiming to get into interior design. I’m an art and design lo-

ver and I’ve approached fashion more under the “cultural” point of view than the consumistic point of view.

- A suggestion for those who would liketo enter this world...

Study as much as you can to improve your cultural awareness and take every chance to gain experience.

- The must-have for this Spring/Summer: Womanswear: 3 colours, orange, green and blue.

Menswear: traveler look with a leather back-pack and espadrilles.

- The must-have for this Spring/Summer The colour will be the protagonist, with all its pastel shades. The retro / bon-ton style will be even more popular in our wardrobe and don’t forget dresses, highwaisted and wide trousers, silk or chiffon blouses and blazers of every kind and color!

My Website: www.shopaholicstyle. com

My

Website: www.thefashioncommentator.blogspot.com

S.G. Fashion Blogger Fashion blogger by passion or necessity!? As fashion has always played a big role in my life I couldn’t avoid it! For this reason I collaborate with several magazines, attend courses of personal style, I keep constantly updated and I do a lot of shopping! I love fashion as an expression of ourselves, as a way of playing and having fun. I love not to take myself too seriously and I always try new things!

- A suggestion for those who would like to enter this world...

Do not be afraid of confrontation, do what you with motivation and passion and love what you do, hold on because sooner or later you will see the results!

LAURA PORTOMEO Web Writer and Make-up artist Laura is from Naples. She is a web writer, the director of a website for women, a student, a MUA and she works as Press Office for some companies in the world of beauty. In love with Audrey Hepburn, passionate about fashion and makeup, but, most of all, about nail polishes (she has more than 600 of them!). She doesn’t like to sit down and do nothing. She cannot live without her iPhone and her MacBook Pro! - A suggestion for those who would like to enter this world...

Everyone is useful but no one is essential!

- The beauty must-have for this Spring/Summer Guerlain Terracotta My Website: www.tentazionemakeup.it

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S0 VAIN FASHION Claudia Sirchia

FASHION FLASH

big news in small doses

Rachel Zoe – Visual merchandiser for Tiffany & Co. Yes, the famous stylist of the most famous divas of the glossy world has been called by Tiffany & Co to​​ set up the windows of their flagship store on Fifth Avenue, the famous store of “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”.

For the occasion, Rachel has thought 5 different windows, each one dedicated to a different decade.

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Shoes designed by...

Madonna?

Yes, the singer sometimes comes back with some novelty (like the pictures of her bruises and split lips during the rehearsals for her upcoming tour) and this time it comes to shoes! In collaboration with Aldo store, in Rome and Milan, she will create a complete collection of all possible models: boots, ankle boots, shoes and pumps. At the moment the only preview we have is that prices will likely hover between $ 89 and $ 349

It’s not the first time.. that we speak of the duo Big Brand and Charity. This time it’s Samsung’s turn to support the foundation Prince Albert II de Monaco: on March 6th they held a charity auction aimed at raising funds to support the research for solutions to the problems of biodiversity; Samsung was the sponsor of the evening and has digitized the scheduled auction, thanks to the Galaxy notes. There is also Teresa Maccapani Missoni that has created a personalized pug soft-toy for the project of LuisaViaRoma (in collaboration with Steiff) “Pug dogs for happy kids,” thanks to which several designers have created their own toys to be “adopted” by a blogger and then they will be resold on Ebay, the proceeds will be donated to UNICEF to support children in Bangladesh.

S0 VAIN FASHION Claudia Sirchia

FASHION FLASH

big news in small doses

….which way are you going?!

Who actively follows the fashion world knows that the this season’s Jil Sander fashion show was the last one for the famous fashion designer Raf Simons. The direction of the maison will go directly to Mrs. Sanders.

And Raf Simons? Rumors want him as the new mind for Dior, but another designer has been removed from his current fashion house: Stefano Pilati for YSL. Currently there are two fashion houses with no designers and 2 designers with no fashion houses.

Will they meet?

News in the bookstore!

Para comprender la moda

by Pedro Rodriguez is a book born in 1945, recently rediscovered and republished by Add Publisher, thanks to an exhibition in Barcelona on the wonderful work of the designer. Inside there are tips and a view on the fashion world through the eyes of Rodriguez. In the bookshop at 12 €.

New collaborations are growing up.

In addition to Marni for H & M, launched on women’s day,there are other collaborations in view. First and foremost that of Pirelli PZero with Diego Dolcini, who created two footwear models: the biker boots and the open sandals with high heels. Both are made ​​in different colours and above all different materials, like rubber and leather, creating a nice game of contrasts between opaque and glossy areas. The second collaboration is that of Diane Von Furstenberg and Current / Elliot, a colourful spring/ summer collection, with vintage inspirations that accentuate the female figure. The collection is available now in stores!

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S T STYLE AR

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HOW DO THEY WEAR THE ANDROGYNOUS LOOK?

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Who said that the best way to be sexy and glamourous is to show your legs and have breathtaking necklines? The latest trend, followed of course by the most fashionable stars, is the androgynous look, that is sexy, provocative and… feminine! Actually this may seem paradoxical, but a man’s suit, a blazer or a tie, can become really feminine and even a bit mischievous if combined with sky-high heels, the right hairstyle and makeup … because, in reality, “the woman” that is within us doesn’t need any skirt or dress to emerge!

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This is the way Rihanna has interpreted the androgynous style, wearing a Dolce & Gabbana Tuxedo on the red carpet. The super fashionable pop star, always attentive to new trends, feels definitely confident in her suit, and if it weren’t for the massive and eccentric super puffy sleeves, we could think it was stolen from 007! The uber-feminine touch is in the sky-high heels and in the diamonds that illuminate her face. Androgynous Yes, but revisited in a “pop star” key!

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S0 VAIN FASHION A more saucy and daytime look for the lovely Rachel Bilson, who, with her easy-chic appeal, provides us with many interesting ideas with her outfits!

The extra touch? Surely the hat. Also in this case there is the feminine touch given by the bracelet with pearls, a sophisticated and slight smoky eye and the patent leather flat shoes: very cool!

Evan Rachel Wood sports a definitely masculine outfit, but that becomes, together with her allure and personality, very sexy! To copy is the waistcoat worn with nothing under, as if it were a top, and also the braces in contrasting colour, dangling on the sides. Rachel likes to exaggerate not only with her clothes but also with her hairstyle, that has a really tom-boy cut, also in fashion, but nevertheless we cannot deny she is extremely feminine!

Very intriguing in this “masculine� version, the super chic Victoria Beckham in Dior; brandishing a colour block on one side and a pair of highwaisted trousers on the other, she is much more feminine like this than she would be wearing a dress. The perfect look for a business woman: strict and impeccable, even at work.

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SAVE THE

LINK!

Our weekly updated blog, written by our experts. Discover the glamourous world of So Vain!

Presents for our readers!

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By Allegra Contoli

AT EASE IN CHAOS Tilda Swinton: the icon of the androgynous style “It is the tumult under the surface. The passions that shake you but that you always succeed in controlling”. This way Tilda Swinton, in a recent interview for the magazine Amica, explains her way of always looking staid, cold and detached, not really the result of a banal indifference, but of a sure awareness of herself.

An actress from London, she comes from a famous family of military tradition (his great-uncle is one of the inventors of the tank), she has attended an exclusive girl’s boarding school (for instance, her classmate was Diana Spencer), she is a graduate of the university in Cambridge in Political and Social Sciences.

At the age of 26 years she becomes the muse of Derek Jarman, homosexual director, “the first living artist I have ever met”, who gives her a part in all of his films from 1985 to 1994, the year of death of the director.

In 1992, she interprets the ambiguous character of the film “Orlando” (inspired by a novel by Virginia Woolf), embodying a character who changes sex during the course of the narration; the awe for her natural interpretation of the character consacrates her icon of the androgynous and am14 SO VAIN magazine mar 2012

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biguous style.

An extraordinary actress, she is also endowed with a charm and a beauty out of the ordinary, with a waxen complexion and those glacial eyes, faithful to her rigorously short hair and to her algid figure. biguous style.

An extraordinary actress, she is also endowed with a charm and a beauty out of the ordinary, with a waxen complexion and those glacial eyes, faithful to her rigorously short hair and to her algid figure.

nal, she lovers the neutral colours like powder pink, gray, black and white, but she also likes to surprise and strike with metallic shades or multicolor patterns. hair-cut and framed by fine details.

Discreet and classy, but also controversial and original, she lovers the neutral colours like powder pink, gray, black and white, but she also likes to surprise and strike with metallic shades or multicolor patterns.

NATURAL WOMAN (MAKE-UP)

STYLE ICON

If we were to use one word to describe the make-up of Tilda, undoubtedly we would choose “natural”. It is The style of Tilda Swinton is exceptionally interesting. because our actress proudly shows off her diaphanous She mixes femininity and sensuality, emphasizing skin, with a minimum make-up, almost absent. The her dinstinctive sign: an enigmatic and seductive an- only granted whim: a thin veil of lipstick. drogynous figure. More than a fashion icon, she is a style icon.

HAIR She is faithful to her tuxedos, better if monochrome and with a rigorously masculine cut . But she is also a Short. Very short. At times styled with gel for a wet lover of long “column” dresses without extravagances effect, others slightly back-combed. First blonde, then or excesses. No low necklines, no slits. Only an elegant brunette, then ginger, then blonde again, then red again; graphic effect. Tilda is also a fan of skirts and LBDs if on the cut Tilda doesn’t like to change, as it regards with a linear cut, so not to give up a touch of femini- the colour she loves having fun. nity.

An alien in her features but also sensual in her simple Finally, focus on the shoes, of which Swinton is a great grace. An artist’s portrait endowed with charme, comlover, who always goes for high heels with a platform. pared to Buster Keaton for the intensity that she conShe also loves to have a bright spot in the neck area, veys even when she’s not speaking, she doesn’t act, but exposed thanks to her short hair-cut and framed by fine she simply is. details.

In two words: Tilda Swinton.

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By Alessandra Pepe

BROGUES FOR WOMEN They are the typical male shoes, but today they have a special place also in every girl’s shoes cupboard.

Here are the best low-cost models for this Spring.

Picture: Fashion blogger Garance Doré wearing a pair of brogues

They come from Scotland and Ireland, they are masculine and strong and they have decorations on the top. Usually they are made of leather to ensure a resistance to cold and rain, and nowadays they have become a landmark for many shoes designers. What am I talking about?

I’m talking about brogue shoes, of course. They have had a huge come back into our shoes cupboards after years of silence in the men’s sections in the shops: today, to own a pair of brogues is essential for every woman, almost like having a pair of stilettos and flat shoes.

After having used a black pair of brogue shoes all winter long, I started asking myself: what truly makes us love them? Surely the most important feature of these shoes is that they are very versatile.

Born as men’s footwear and being reinterpreted by designers with more feminine and soft details, they can be used to create different looks.

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S0 VAIN FASHION A leather model is perfe ct with a pair of jeans, better if they are a pair of boyfriend-jeans with a cuff at the bottom, a t-shirt and a fitte d blazer: it’s a CASUAL LOOK, suita ble for everyday life or an afternoon shop ping with friends. A perfect interpretatio n of these shoes in a low-cost key is th e Newlook model in light-beige leather at the PRICE: £ 14.99 (newlo ok.com)

look and give c ti an m ro a p u To break to RARY TOUCH a CONTEMPO o skirts, you can g d an es ss re d iin m brogues. You can al n io it ad tr ss le for on Asos: there es n o ct fe er p e th find ns at an affordaai g ar b al re e m are so the al and romantic, ble price. Unusu e on strings and mad b b ri h it w es u g ro b ey ct for this goal. Th fe er p e ar e ed su in wder pink, beige o p in le b la ai av are and blue . (asos.co.uk) PRICE: € 48.91

To give a ‘20s TOUCH to yo ur look (the ‘2 and the ‘50s tr 0s ends will be th e protagonists the incoming sp of ring/summer c ollections), yo can choose a le u ather model in contrasting colours: brown a nd white.

PRICE: €44 (D orothy Perkin s)

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If you are lo DIFFERE oking for something NT FROM USUAL y can go fo ou r two con temporary original m and odels with a simple li embellishe ne, d by glitter y decoratio the brown/c ns: opper mod el from Wh lesale-Dre oss.net at th e astonish cost of $ 7 ing .03 (perfec t to satisfy whim with a out hurtin g your wa too!) or th llet e cream m odel you s here ee PRICE: € 23.75. (for ever21)

go brogues e h t o s l a e Finally, Let’s se .

R U O for COL that are perfect els two mod ple and monoim with a s look, to make c with a chromati g n i t s e r e int tric it more : an elec r u o l o c f touch o ue, blue brog 9 (asos.co.uk) £3 PRICE:

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Lea T.

When the model meets freedom

By Claudia Sirchia

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A girl and a dream: to become a model.

What’s so special compared to many other stories? The child was born in a male body. Her name is Lea T.

S0 VAIN FASHION Lea was born in Brazil, but then moved to Italy when she was two years old thanks to the work of her father, Toninho Cerezo, a football player who had a contract with Roma. She lived her childhood and teenage years here, in a Catholic family and moved from Rome to Genoa and began her career in fashion as Leo Cerezo.

Now, thinking about it, she just smiles. It was a confused period for her: when she went to the male castings they usually sent her to the women’s section, she was a very thin guy and very androgynous. Not many people believed she was a man!

The turning point came in 2010. The turning point is called Riccardo Tisci.

The Creative Director of Givenchy chose her as his assistant, and here she began the discovery of herself. Lea has always known that something was different about her and, not knowing the existence of transsexuality, she has always identified herself as homosexual, reducing her discomfort to a purely sexual level. But being a transsexual goes beyond that. The relationship with yourself is the

in spite of the thought of all the moralists, he publicly praised Lea for having had the courage to face life with her difficulties. This letter was also read directly from his father, during the first interview with Lea in Italy, made by Daria Bignardi in her program “Barbarian Invasions”.

Riccardo Tisci has described Lea T. (T as Tisci, a choice made by the model in honor of the man who discovered and “adopted” her) as” a natural beauty, unique and rare. A combination of strength and purity, romance and aggression. All components of androgynous, present in both sexes”.

And if it were not for him?

If Riccardo Tisci had not taken her under his wing and he hadn’t understood her true self?

If Lea had persisted in not seeing her transsexuality, closed in her catholic environment, what would have happened?

The message that Leah T. and her manager want to pursue is the freedom for transsexual people, the freedom to dream of a life like everyone else’s and to be able to realize their dreams without the fear that someone, for simple discrimination and

centre of everything, and not the relationship you have with others. Not recognizing yourself at the mirror, being a man and seeing yourself as a woman, or, as in the case of Lea, being a woman and seeing a man.

Lea finds it out later on, Tisci convinces her and for the first time he manages to make her wear women’s clothes. It is thanks to him that she appears in her first campaign for Givenchy.

It ‘s an uphill battle, that of Lea, not without obstacles that lead her to pose for various advertising campaigns and covers of popular magazines: Love Magazine, for instance, has immortalized the lesbian kiss with Kate Moss.

The shooting that has made the most headlines was, surely, the one published in August 2010 by French Vogue in which Lea was posing naked.

There have been words of admiration, but the critics were very fierce, maybe a bit too much. The journalist of a famous newspaper has described her body as possessed by the devil, and thanked that this happened to the family of Leah and not his. The answer? A sweet letter of her father, who

hatred towards the others, could ruin them.

“A natural beauty, unique and rare. A combination of strength and purity, romance and aggression. All components of androgynous, present in both sexes”

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THE BLAZER

By Marianna de Luca The blazer is a type of jacket that comes from those worn in England to play cricket or to practice other sports. The term Blazer was subsequently used to point out a blue double-breasted jacket for men. It has then become a real must-have from the film “American Gigolò”, where Richard Gere, as the main character, wears this item designed by Giorgio Armani.

In the latest seasons they have presented it in many different ways also for women. From the classical double-breasted model, to the oversize one, to the asymmetrical model: each one of them gives the right masculine touch to every feminine look.

It is one of the items that every woman should have in her own wardrobe and, if possible, also more than one. Besides the fact that it gives a masculine touch to the looks, it is also one of the most versatile items.

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1. A blazer looks perfect WITH DRESSES,

as it gives them a touch of elegance.

In this scene of Gossip Girl, Blake Lively wears a blazer of a very light pink, combined to a day dress, heels and a python purse.

2. Olivia Palermo knows how to make the blazer look CASUAL. With a simple pair of jeans, a withe lace top, heels and a Birkin, she uses this item for a day out shopping. In this case, the blazer looks really feminine and we would never guess this was originally an item for men.

3. It is true that a blazer can be really feminine, but why can’t we also adopt it for a

MASCULI-

NE LOOK? Here Heidi Klum wears it to an event with black trousers and a white shirt. An outfit that is a classic.

4. If you don’t want to go for

the classical blazer, it is another matter entirely. In the latest collections we have become accustomed to sparkly items that don’t pass unnoticed. Then do as Whitney Port in using a gilded and very

BRIGHT BLAZER.

By adopting this type of blazer, you should go for a simple look in the bottom part of the outfit, so not to get a “circus” effect.

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Photographer

Enzo Furloni Stylist Stephanie Reed Make up artist Simona Serpellini Model Emma Sala 24 SO VAIN magazine mar 2012

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IT’S A MAN ’S WORLD

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This editorial was shot in:

The ANTICA FRATTA cellar was already talked about with admiration the middle of the 19th century when the Knight of the Grand Cross Luigi Rossetti - a selfmade man – bought the palace and its surrounding lands and had made it the largest and finest cellar in the province by far. A new life started for that rural mansion, included in the estate of the Brusati family since the 15th century and became the centre of rich wine trade.

After the death of Luigi Rossetti it went through a period of abandonment which came to an end in 1979 with Franco Ziliani, who visited the villa and decided to relaunch, restore and reconstruct it to bring it back to its former splendour. In the October of 1979 Antica Fratta is born!

Today, Antica Fratta produces a little less than 250 bottles of Franciacorta Docg. Tasting a wine, it happens to everyone to enjoy the elegance of its bouquet, its aromatic richness and share this sensations with friends and colleagues. Although it often happens that we don’t know the origins of this wine, its history, its places and the men who have created it with their experience and commitment.

All of this happens in Antica Fratta, where the old underground cellars are available to guests to explain the secrets of the wine experience that brings to the production of Franciacorta docg, and in particular of the Franciacorta method. A route that lived in the centuries-old tunnels of our cellars becomes a truly fascinating and enjoyable experience. In the scenario of the Franciacorta production, Antica Fratta represents a quality niche that we are proud to submit to the judgment of the most demanding enthusiasts.

During the visit you will be able to taste the wines produced by Antica Fratta.

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A WALK INTO

SPRING

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Photographer: Ailera Stone Model: Olla G. Stylist: Dario Bentivegna Hair and Make up: Ruth Campbell SO VAIN magazine mar 2012 33 Outifits and bags from ChinaDollBoutique.com

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ANDROGYNOUS IN MENSWEAR

By Dario Bentinvegna

A style, more than a trend. How can the androgynous decline in the male wardrobe today

W

hen we talk about menswear, we often associate it to iconic pieces of clothing and classics like tuxedos, shirts, cardigans, V-neck jumpers, jeans and t-shirts. The word androgynous is seen as the bogeyman, but as such, it’s scary just because we don’t know it well and we just imagine a man who wears his girlfriend’s dresses. Luckily, the scenery is much richer and today the androgynous look is presented by the designers with different approaches.

The most direct examples are the silhouettes and the typically feminine items (the long or above the knee tunic by Rick Owens and the A-line skirt presented by Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy). The trick of wearing these items is to go for a minimal look and not to wear fitted clothes. Surely such items are more suitable for very hot climates and holiday resorts rather than a walk downtown.

A more refined and much less obviuous interpretation of the androgynous is the mix of tailored items for men created using fabrics and cuts of womenswear.

Finally, there are brands such as Deep Style Korea that has presented an androgynous collection, relying on silhouettes and items with soft and deconstructed lines and playing with the styling especially with make-up and hair.

These kinds of look are now available also in low-cost stores - H&M, Zara, etc... - but presented with a relaxed and sloppy-chic styling to meet the western taste.

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S0 VAIN MAN ternational costumers , thanks to the mix and match of prints, colours and textural layering.

In the men’s line created for H&M, the basic elements of the male wardrobe are inflected in a very Marni style, that remains faithful to the DNA of the brand, using dark colours with some asymmetrical elements, as in the case of the striped sweaters. There are even the typical squared and oversized sil-

, the iconic items of Marni at H&M theFinally Marni at H&M collection will for Men enter in millionsaroundof wardrobes the world.

By Alessandro Masetti

The sophisticated and selective fashionistas were just expecting this event: that Consuelo Castiglioni would become one of the designers who teamed up with H&M. Finally, on the 8th of March, the iconic items of the Marni at H&M collection will enter in millions of wardrobes around the world. Since 1994 Marni has been growing up, creating a chic, never vulgar and refined style that charms the inSO VAIN magazine mar 2012 45

S0 VAIN MAN houettes for jackets and coats as well as the contrasting prints that appear on the inner linings or on the shirts. A complete wardrobe for a man who loves the classic style, but with a modern and casual twist.

For every H&M collaborations’ lover who doesn’t want to leave the shop until he buys a complete outfit with matched accessories, there are many customers who do not really like to wear and show off the entire collection. So here there are

some tips on how to style the key pieces of Marni at H&M with the seasonal trends.

In the fashion world the primacy of the soles of the shoes had become more and more relevant and the latest trends want them medium-thick; projecting at least 1cm; in

So here there are some tips on how to style the key pieces of Marni at H&M with the seasonal trends.

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rubber (Jimmy Choo, Zegna), but especially colored, like the loafers or the laced shoe by Mark McNairy, that create a breaking color effect. To break up the monotony of a shirt, there is nothing better than a colorful striped belt (Paul Smith), while for those who want to enrich the khaki pants there is the Burberry Tiki style shirt, very similar to the tribal prints by Consuelo Castiglioni. Finally the key-pieces of the accessories, the all-holders: minimalist tote bags (Marni, Dior Homme, Burberry) or the real must-have of the season, the backpack (Bill Amberg, Asos).

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The key-pieces of the accessories, the all-holders

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THE FORMAL SHORTS

Since last year the shorts for men have been officially declared cool and also the low-cost stores are starting to sell them. For 2012, however, they have a more elegant and formal cut, with neutral colors and a mid-thigh length instead of being just above the knee. It is an evergreen item, perfect for both day and evening.

Styling tip:

balance the short cut of the shorts with a polo t-shirt for the day, and a shirt with sleeves pulled up for the evening.

Looks by Jill Sanders

By Dario Betinvegna

SPRING FOR MEN Confused by the dozens of collections that went down the runways six months ago and you can’t remember what trends you have seen on the catwalk?

Here’s a guide to the biggest menswear trends for this Spring / Summer.

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S0 VAIN MAN Look by Vivienne Westwood

OLYMPIC-SPORTY LOOK

Summer 2012 will be clearly dominated by the London Olympics. Even if you don’t have a ticket to the myriad of sports events you can enter the Olympic atmosphere by wearing themed T-shirts.

Styling tip:

avoid the total sporty look. Mix your t-shirt with shorts or jeans and a pair of sandals. Jumpsuits and sneakers are fine for the gym.

TROPICAL PRINTS

With summer comes the sun, the mood of people improves and we get a tan. The tropical prints, ranging between jungle and carnival in Rio, express the desire to be outdoors and relax and they also bring out the golden skin of summer.

Styling tip: Looks by Givenchy

by Riccardo Tisci

attention to tank tops if you don’t have perfectly fitted arms and biceps and if you fear that the tropical prints make you look pale, the important thing is not to wear it close to your face, that is T-shirts and shirts, but wear them on trousers and shorts.

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S0 VAIN BEAUTY

By Simona Serpellini

ANDROGYNOUS IN MAKE UP The androgynous make up is one of the easiest ones to recreate, yet always very impressive. The only prerequisite for this kind of make-up is a translucent skin, that is very very fair. The rest is really easy!

3 EASY STEPS TO GET IT RIGHT! STEP 1: THE BASE

This should be light, with the sole purpose of correcting small imperfections and make the skin look smooth.

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S0 VAIN BEAUTY STEP 2: THE EYES

The eyes are the elements to be mostly emphasized.

You can choose between eye-shadows in natural colors, which give the right proportions to the eye, and darker tones (also black) that make it look more severe.

Mascara and eyeliner are optionals, but if you apply them, it is important not to exaggerate, you must keep the eye as much natural as possible.

The focal point of the make up will be the eyebrows: bushy and full.

STEP 3: THE LIPS For the mouth it would be better to use the nude tones, but in alternative a light pink is also fine.

The look can be reinterpreted with a deep red lipstick, but it would be a review, not the real androgynous make up!

This make up is very easy to wear both during day and night, with little colour variations.

And it looks great on everyone! Try it!

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SPRING COLOURS AND TEXTURES

By Simona Serpellini

Spring is here and with her also the new make up trends!

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T

his year the true stars are the textures, but how?

Make up becomes a way to sculpt the face and shape the features, alternating shiny, matt and liquid effects! This, the liquid effect, has attracted most attention in the world of makeup. It can be recreated using a fluid foundation, a primer made with serum, cream eyeshadows and blushes, or a simple lip-gloss. The important thing is not to flatten the face with a total powder effect!

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Very important are also the highlight products that bring light on the face.There has been an explosion of

metallic co-

lours, especially blue and gold, but also pink and silver. They can be applied to the eye or used to give light to lips and cheeks; just don’t overdo it, the motto for this season is: vary the texture!

In spring, however, we must always

pa-

stel colours to create a very feminine look. Pink is the most important one! We can apply it on lips, eyes and skin! But also green and blue are perfect.

In addition to the metal and pastel colours, there are also beige and brown with us next season.

For the lips, the most trendy colours are coral and pink, but the palette ranges from rosés to orange and, for darker complexions, also brick and caramel are permitted.

Now we know what is in fashion, but how can we apply it to ourselves!?

There are 2 schools of thought on the style to be adopted in the new season: one of classic spring time and one that reflects the past several months.

• In the first case, the concept is “no-makeup”. The base is natural, neutral or very delicate colours on the eyes and the lips are covered with a thin layer of tinted balm. The only “transgression” allowed is the eyeliner. The main feature of this look is the characteristic pink blush that gives a bonne mines effect and which can be substituted by an illuminating mat.

• If you prefer a stronger makeup, I recommend the other school of thought: the eyes have very strong and metallic colours, also the smokey is perfect, but not in black! The dark colours are mixed with those characteristic of this season..

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First of all, the collection of Cool Romance by Orly.

The name says it all: six feminine and, of course, roBy Laura Portomeo mantic colours.

The collection is presented thus: “Sweetly rebel, The key-word for this Spring 2012 seems to: pastel! transgressively classic, softly biting ....”, and there There wasn’t one company is no denial! The whimsical that hasn’t followed this new and definitely elegant touch trend with the most different of this collection is “Stecolours, turning them in soft el you Heart”, a black with shades. metallic reflections which are similar to silver!

NAIL TRENDS

Also Zoya offers, with the Feel collection, six pastel colours, from lilac to light blue, from pink to peach ... to dive into a real garden in bloom!

And for the lovers of the Italian style, Layla Cosmetics Milano has extended its range of the now famous Ceramic Effect. It has 5 super bright colors. The Wild Beije is really beautiful, with golden microshimmers!

OPI, however, offers a

much wider range of colours, as many as 12, which alternate with finish cream and fine shimmers, strong and dynamic shades to more subdued and calm ones. The Holland Collection has something for everyone!

An entirely different opinion seems to have China Glaze that went for pastel colours, 54 SO VAIN magazine mar 2012

but in quite bright An entirely different opi nion seems to have China Glaze that went for pastel colours, but in quite bright and strong shades. Seeing the bottles of the Electro Pop Collection all together they almost look like candies. In addition there is a beautiful transparent glitter.

Straight from the UK, also Butter London offers 5 nail polishes in strong and decided shades, a fuchsia, an emerald green, a pink, a light grey and a beautiful purple with microshimmer duochrome!

Thus ending the strictly professional area, we talk about more commercial and luxurious brands.

To launch this trend, like almost every year, seems to have been Chanel with three nail polishes: April, May and June, already very present on the web way back in October, they have now conquered the nails and the hearts of millions of girls .. how to blame them!

And in the wake of Chanel, Dior has also launched, with its Garden Collection, two pastel colours: a beautiful lilac and a light green!

In short, if you love these colors, you will be spoiled with choices!

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SO VAIN Issue n.03 MARCH 2012

IT’S A

man’s world out in June 2012