Spell Magazine Spring edition 2023

The ex-Love Islander is ready to conquer the world Priscilla Anyabu

Rob Wheele

08 Spell spotlight

The spring/summer forecast

14 Everything you need to feel like royalty

26 Spell loves 18 The afro kinky shop

EDITOR

Bulletin with all the industry goss!

SCOOP

BEHIND THE BRAND

LIHA

Beauty products inspired by African heritage continue to grow in vast numbers. One of the first in the trend to go authentically African are Liha Okunniwa (left) and Abi Oyepitan (right), founders of LIHA. Their luxe line of candles, oils and butters combines traditional Yoruba practices with a quintessentially British attitude.

Interview

From cult faves to raiding your daughter's beauty cabinet for inspiration

Liha: “Skincare is literally my hobby and my job. I never skip on my routine or have cheat days. Even if I've had a big night, I somehow manage to get my make-up off before bed. But one thing I'm guilty of is trying too many products. That can lead to major breakouts.”

Abi: “There’s always a new skincare ingredient. This year it’s L-Glutamine, next year it will be something else. I'm always open to trying new things but we love the classics and keeping it minimal. The mix of African and English aromatherapy oil blends is what makes our brand so unique.”

L: “Our Idan Oil is a cult favourite. I can’t live without it and use it

for my hair and body. One of my biggest inspirations comes from my 18-year-old daughter, Eva. She always keeps me up on trends and gives the best beauty tips. I’m always stealing lotions and creams from her cabinet too.”

A: “Time spent in front of large computer screens and TVs can impact how our skin looks and feels. For a pickme-up, the Oju Omi Mud is packed with nutrients and a raft of wonder ingredients including ximenia oil, frankincense, mollasses and kaolin clay – when combined together it gives an amazing glow.”

A: “One of my favourite skincare rituals rooted in black culture are

shea butter rubs. It helps so many concerns from dryness to swelling. I love how black culture influences wider culture just like it always has. When it comes to the skincare industry it’s no different. Since we launched, there have been so many brands that have embraced cultural influences and that is a beautiful change to see.”

L: “It’s great to see black-owned beauty brands on the rise. There’s room for everyone and we’ve built a community where we meet and share challenges and solutions. Abi and I met with Michele from Bouclème and Maya from Maya Nije perfumes for a lunch and it was much needed therapy.”

LIHA beauty collection, from £9

“BLACK CULTURE INFLUENCES WIDER CULTURE”

Editor’s picks

Spell Magazine’s editor Jemima Cousins highlights the latest launches and hero buys

Get the vibe

THE HERO BUYS

AVEDA Nutriplenish Styling Treatment Foam, £28

High performance hair was the theme for Stella McCartney x Adidas’ SS23 campaign, For stylish sweat-proof styles, here’s everything you need for a winning look.

DON’T MISS OUT

URBAN LOCS Rebel Kink Jumbo Locs, £8.99

ECO STYLE Sport Extra Hold, £5.99

CURAPROX Black is White Hydrosonic Toothbrush, £155

Diffuser and Candle, £45

AESOP FRAGRANCE Eidesis Eau de Parfum, £140

ADEOLA GBOYEGA X BY JOY ADENUGA Flawless Face Edit, £80

UGLY by Anita Bhagwandas, £18.99 at Waterstones

BLACK OWNED

BIG ENERGY Hoodie by Beauty Brunch, £45

MILK MAKEUP Sculpt Stick, £22

Stella McCartney

JESSICA NABONGO

With 450 flights and over a million air miles logged, ‘wanderluster’ does not even begin to describe Ugandan-born travel influencer Jessica Nabongo, who is the first black woman to travel to every country in the world. A writer and photographer, Jessica documents her adventures in photo and video form, from the people she meets to the food she eats. Definitely worth a #follow.

TRAMWAY PATH

Three brothers, three success stories. Jason, 37, William, 35, and Daniel, 31 (the latter who is married to renowned make-up artist Hadassah (@thequeenhadassah) are property experts who came to fame during lockdown while hosting a lucky dip draw to win a London property. So far, the trio have given away nine properties and counting.

IT’S A LIFESTYLE, HUN

Curated by Melissa aka 'Mel' aka celebrity stylist for Stormzy and Zeze Mills, the fashionista's off-shoot insta feed is a fun passion project with totally moreish content. Her snaps capture the vibe and aspirational lifestyle of the modern cosmopolitan woman. Follow for your daily motivation to ‘live well’, from lessons on style and interior design, to food and floral arrangements.

WHO to follow

BLACKARCHIVES.CO

If a picture speaks a thousand words, this account is an epic poem. Get lost in time with photos documenting the black experience throughout recent history. It was founded by Renata Cherlise after an online archive search for images connected to her childhood home left her disappointed. Black Archives features imagery dating back as the 1930s, often provoking comments from those who remember, or have some connection to, the people and places in the pictures.

STREET ART GLOBE

Remember Tracey Emin's unmade bed at the Tate? While controversial, pundits considered the display to be a pivotal moment in art. If you have an appreciation for original content, add interest to your scroll by joining the 10.5 million followers of StreetArtGlobe. From memes, to photorealist CGI, and videos of lifelike robots, it’s a hub for viral visual media. Number one on Forbes' arty Instagrams to follow list, this account forces us to ask: ‘what is art?’.

BLACK PEOPLE PETS

Who knew watching people pull pranks on their pets or paint their talons would bring so much joy to the world? From celebrities bonding with their cats, to dogs in fancy dress bopping along to Biggy Smalls, this adorable account is an endless source of mischievous and funny pets being papped by their owners. The wholesome content dismantles the notion black people dislike animals, and if you're not a big animal lover, this might change your mind.

Jaded by the same old posts on the ‘Gram? Freshen up your feed with

SPELL SPotlight

L’Oréal

Ask the expert

Hesitant about heat-styling your hair?

Professionnel Artistic Educator

Abigail Butler explains why we should swap our regular hot tools for the power of steam

Now in its fourth generation, the L’Oréal Steampod has amassed a cult following of consumers and professionals who laud the tool for its key feature: steam. The brand’s research reveals that the use of steam causes 80% less damage than standard heat tools, and promises that the Steampod can be used to achieve any hairstyle on any hair type. A big claim, you might say. But Abigail Butler, stylist and L’Oréal Professionnel Artistic Educator, assures us that this isn’t just a gimmick.

FIRST THOUGHTS… A STRAIGHTENER EMITTING STEAM, SURELY THAT WILL MAKE CURLY HAIR POOFY?

No, not at all! It’s just like an ordinary straightener, but the results on your hair are twice as smooth compared to other heated tools. Plus, the styling products like the L’Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox that pair with the Steampod, help to create a frizz-free and humidity resistant finish, so having poofy hair will be the last thing you need to worry about!

WHY IS STEAM BETTER THAN REGULAR HEATED TOOLS? When working with curly and textured hair, moisture is the key to protecting the hair and keeping it hydrated. When adding steam to your heated tool, it puts the moisture back into the hair strands rather than taking it away.

CAN THE L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL STEAMPOD 4 BE USED MORE OFTEN TO STRAIGHTEN AND CURL HAIR?

The great thing about the Steampod is that there is up to 80% less damage to the hair compared to other hair straighteners. What’s reassuring is that, if you choose to straighten or curl your hair more, you can do this without worrying about causing extra damage.

REVERSION IS THE BANE OF EVERY CURLY GIRL’S LIFE. WHAT GO-TO TIPS DO YOU HAVE FOR USING THE STEAMPOD 4?

Always start with clean hair. If you’re not used to heated tools, know that you can have confidence in using something that adds value to your hair, rather than takes away. Make sure you prep freshly washed hair with a heat protectant or serum before applying any form of heat. This will help to seal your

cuticles and give a silky appearance to your hair for longer. If you have to reapply heat because of reversion, always top up on moisture.

IS IT SAFE TO USE ON PROBLEMATIC

SCALPS?

The Steampod is no different to using any other straightening tool, and is safe to use on all hair types. If you find you have a problematic scalp, I recommend seeking medical advice first from a dermatologist or trichologist who can recommend what is best for you.

WHAT RESULTS DO YOU GET WHEN THE DETACHABLE COMB IS USED?

The comb attachment helps to give a more even finish when straightening. It allows the heat to penetrate and smooth every strand rather than just straightening the top and bottom layer of that section. It’s perfect if you want to achieve a silk press finish.

WHAT ARE YOUR TIPS FOR PREVENTING BREAKAGE CAUSED BY HEAT STYLING?

Firstly, always use a heat protector. It’s important to protect your hair from UV rays and weather conditions that can dry your hair, as this can impact its condition when using direct heat. Remember to frequently apply deep intensive treatments as this will help to recondition, add moisture to your hair and prepare your hair for styling.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN USING THE L’OREAL PROFESSIONNEL STEAMPOD 4 AND A SILK PRESS?

There’s no real difference between the silk press and using a Steampod. A silk press is a technique used to smooth the hair using a two-step process, which consists of blow-drying the hair straight, then straightening the hair to give a silky glass-like look. You will, however, need to use a lot of heat for this technique. The Steampod does the same thing, but you can straighten the hair three-times faster with results that are twice as smooth, inflicting 80% less damage to hair.

For a chance to win a L’Oreal Professionnel Steampod 4, visit spellmagazine.co.uk

Opposite page: Photography by Glenn Larkby. Art direction by Jemima Cousins

METAL DETOX Anti-Deposit Protector Concentrated Hair 50ml, £23.40

YOUR SPRING/SUMMER FORECAST

We look to the catwalks and street style stars to find inspiration on what to wear this season. Here are the hottest trends to look out for

FULANI FEELS

While Fulani braids have been on the scene from last year, we’ve spotted an increasing number of street style stars adding a fresh twist, with their pattern of choice being a neatly plaited heart-shaped emoji. We’re particularly loving model Adwoa Aboah’s braided bun, combined with beaded braids at a face-hugging, jawline length.

Pre-Stretched in colour OM Blue Lavender, £4.15

Ruwa in colour 27, £4.49

Lagos Braid in colour 1B, £2.69

Deborah Iona, BFC

Deborah Iona, BFC

Deborah Iona, BFC Deborah Iona, BFC

GET THE LOOK WITH X-PRESSION BRAIDS

PRETTY LITTLE

PRETTY LITTLE THING

90S GIRLBAND

We’ve all called up a friend before a night out to ask what they’re wearing. But now it’s time to get serious about outfit coordination.

London brand Poster Girl and designer Edward Crutchley both showcased collections honouring harmonic styles without being too matchy-matchy. The key to girlband fashion for the real world? Stick to two or three colours between your group.

Christina Fragkou BFC

Christina Fragkou BFC

Mini Skirt, £25

TK MAXX Clutch, £24.99

THING Dress, £25

THE CHEEK OF IT

Wearing blusher higher on your cheekbones can lift your whole look, providing an easy spring update. Recreate the rosy faces as seen at Chet Lo and Daniel w. Fletcher by choosing a bold blusher and softly brushing the pigment from the top of your cheekbone along your temple, and finishing at the tail of your eyebrow. Go for a small amount of product for a more natural look, or build the product stroke-by-stroke for vivid colour.

Daniel w. Fletcher, Phto credit: Haydon Perrior, BFC

Chet Lo SS23, Backstage.

Phto credit: Eeva Rinne, BFC

Poster Girl

STUDIO LONDON Flaunt Flawless Blusher in Embrace, £4

GLOSSIER Cloud Paint in Dawn, £17

LOTTIE LONDON Frosted Highlighter Swirl in Cinnamon Bun, £8.95

H2T COLOUR

Spring and summer fashion often reflects the colours of the natural world around us, and this season is no different. Designers such as Chet Lo placed a heavy emphasis on vibrant looks, with models in head-to-toe greens, blues, reds, pink and oranges. Meanwhile, street stylers dabbled in complementary and contrasting colours for their eye-catching ensembles. Consult your nearest Pantone colour guide to get your formula right!

NEW LOOK Jumpsuit, £39.99

OLIVER BONAS Scarf, £25

NEW LOOK Beret, £9.99

Chet Lo.

Photo credit: BFC

Ahluwalia.

Photo credit: Christina Fragkou BFC

Street style outside Fashion East.

Photo credit: Deborah Iona, BFC

Deborah Iona, BFC Street style outside Eftychia.

Photo credit: Deborah Iona, BFC

EVERYTHING YOU NEED to feel like royalty

It’s a new era of the British monarchy, and we’re celebrating the coronation with our top picks fit for a ‘qween’.

This May, the UK will bear witness to an event that many of us will not have experienced in our lifetime: a coronation. With the last coronation of a British monarch having taken place in 1953, we can only look to historical records – and the tales regaled by our elders – to anticipate the levels of celebration that we’re set to look forward to this year.

But that’s not all – the event is set to take place on the Saturday of a Bank Holiday weekend, which means three-day-long street parties, cookouts, festivals and more. Plenty of opportunity to show off the new hairstyle you’ve been dying to try!

Whether you’re rolling out the red carpet and playing host to guests in your own

home, or joining in the celebrations at a public event or round a friend’s house, we’ve put together a guide fit for all eventualities and budgets to help you feel like royalty. Think ‘luxury’ in the most elegant dress. Sleep like a queen with sumptuous bed linen; bejewel yourself with treasures fit for a ball; and top off your look with a crown of highend hair extensions. Your throne awaits!

Unsplash, Zach Vessels

THE STUFF OF DREAMS BELLE OF THE BALL SEAT OF POWER

LITTLE

GOLDEN AGE

STEP IT UP

CROWNING TOUCH

SELFRIDGES

Steve Madden Courts, £130

AVALANA Duvet Set, £125

PARKER KNOLL Chair, £1,371

THE FEME COLLECTION V Natural Straight Hair Extensions, from £79.99

PRIMARK Satin Dress, £15

JO MALONE LONDON Osmanthus Blossom Cologne 50ml, £82

PRINCESS CRYSTAL CLEAR

HARRODS Aspinal of London Clutch , £595

ST ESSENTIALS Glitter Pigment, £7

BE YOUR OWN T REND

THE AFRO KINKY SHOP

Demand for afro bulk hair has reached fever pitch, and with the influx of directional natural styles (‘frohawks, faux locs and bubble ponytails), it’s not hard to see why

Product shown: Sensationnel Soft n’ Silky Fro Natural in colours from left to right: T1B/33, T1B/BG, T1B/27, T27/613, T1B/30, T1B/350.

Price from £4.99

TEXTURE TURN UP

Move over yaki hair, afro bulk hair has made an almighty comeback. The surge in boho and creative protective styles has rekindled our love for type 4 hair. One of the most versatile hair extensions around, and made from 100% kanekalon hair*, it comes in the popular bulk bundle format and gorgeous ashy colours, ready to create any ‘hot right now’ style. Want to supersize your bun? Use an add-on to bolster volume. For more technical styles, the hair can be freestyled into stunning crochet afros and organiclooking locs.

WHAT IS KANEKALON HAIR?

Kanekalon is a modacrylic synthetic fiber made from Japanese technology. The soft, lightweight material is widely used for synthetic braiding hair and wigs. The key features are a human-hair like texture and Hot Water Set technology.

Opposite page:

Photo by Glenn Larkby.

Creative direction: Jemima Cousins

@kayraszn @kayraszn

@aaija

@pinterest

@pinterest

@isimemeedeko

@spstyled

@spstyled

@estiloneguinha

WHAT’Slove GOT TO DO WITH IT?

Ex-Love Islander Priscilla Anyabu is switching gears, turning her attention to presenting and podcasting. Here she tells us her thoughts on representation and becoming the change that she wants to see in the world.

Photography by Kosher of Femelle Studios. Hair by Pashcanel Mitchell for As I Am. Wig construction by Aisha Ibrahim. Make-up by Pauline Briscoe. Styling by Nicola Ranger

Hair:

“I like peace. I don’t like problems.”

Priscilla Anyabu is not naive to the challenges of being a black woman in the entertainment and influencer industries. From tokenism and colourism, to the harsh realities of the racial pay gap, the Love Island alumni has experienced it all. However, while it might be easier to avoid working in a field where such blatant discrimination is often dismissed as ‘just the way it is’, Priscilla faces the challenges of her career head-on, utilising her desire to occupy space – and to help other black women do the same – as a catalyst for change. That’s not to say her journey hasn’t taken an emotional toll (she tells us about how negative online comments have ‘shifted’ her mood), but it has led to opportunities for growth and self-discovery.

Here, she tells us why she brings her black makeup artist and hairstylists to jobs; explains the work that brands really need to do in order to achieve equality and talks about why nail shop environments cause us to spill the tea on our personal lives.

ACCORDING TO RECENT RESEARCH, THE PAY GAP BETWEEN WHITE AND BLACK INFLUENCERS IS 22%. SO HOW DOES THAT MAKE YOU FEEL?

I think it is always going to be a tough pill to swallow, especially because I personally know how much creativity I, and other black influencers, have to offer. There really shouldn’t be any difference in pay because the quality of content is pretty much the same. However, this is the society that we live in, and all we can do is strive to push and campaign to change that.

WHAT DO YOU THINK NEEDS TO BE DONE BY BRANDS WHO WORK WITH INFLUENCERS FOR THERE TO BE EQUALITY IN PAY?

I think it always comes down to education. A lot of the time I feel like brands may not necessarily see that the influencer is right for the market. Or they might not think that their consumers relate to their influence, when in fact, the influencer does drive a lot of sales. So it’s about being aware of the current market, on who their consumer is and about the culture in general. Because there is a lot of black culture around us. For example, Kardashian hairstyles – a lot of these

have come from old school hairstyles that I myself or people before me have worn. It’s about educating yourself on where the trends are actually coming from, and then you will see we are pretty much one and the same.

DO YOU HAVE HOPE FOR THE FUTURE THAT INFLUENCERS WILL GET AN EQUAL SEAT AT THE TABLE AND NOT JUST AS A TOKEN?

Oh, I absolutely do have hope. It will take some time, but as you can see from previous years, we have come a long way, but we’re nowhere near where we want to be. More black influencers are getting recognised, like Nella Rose and Victor Kundas. It’s going in a positive trajectory, maybe slower than we’d like, but it’s definitely becoming a bit more positive.

YOU’VE TALKED IN THE PAST ABOUT FEARS OF BEING THE TOKEN BLACK GIRL WHEN YOU WERE SCOUTED FOR LOVE ISLAND. DO YOU FEEL LIKE DATING SHOWS HAVE MADE AN ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THAT STIGMA SINCE YOUR TIME ON THE SHOW? I didn’t so much call it a fear. I knew I was going to be the token black girl. With that being said, I think myself and other black girls know that sometimes we do have to be the token black girl in order to be the change that we want to see. I think even since being on dating shows, I have now seen a lot of black females progress further in the show, or more than one black female in the house at the same time which, as I said, is good to see. But more can always be done.

DID YOU FEEL THE PRESSURE OF THE RESPONSIBILITY OF BEING AN INSPIRATION FOR OTHER BLACK WOMEN?

When it comes to being the representation for black women, I never feel pressure, because that’s what I am – I’m a black woman personified. How I carry myself, what I do on a day-to-day basis; I live it. It’s not like I think, oh my gosh, I’m representing black girls. This is how I have to act. This is how I have to move. I just live it. So I don’t ever think there is any pressure. I think the only thing I would tell myself is that I want to continue to be in these spaces so that more people can be in these spaces with me.

HAVE YOU EVER TURNED DOWN A JOB BECAUSE OF DIVERSITY CONCERNS?

I don’t necessarily look at things as a diversity concern, because I want to be that change. So if there is a lack of diversity, I would rather be there to create representation in order to show people that we can occupy these spaces and occupy them very well. I wouldn’t say I have turned down jobs, but what I would do is make sure that the treatment is as equal and fair as what my counterparts receive.

SO DO YOU TRY TO SUGGEST OTHER BLACK CREATORS TO BRANDS?

When it comes to branding, you could have the right look, but what does the rest of your team look like? If I’m being booked for a presenting gig, I would like to bring my black make-up artist and my black hairstylist. If we are going to make a change, we can’t just make the change at the front at surface level. It has to be integrated throughout the entire company.

“SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO BE THE TOKEN BLACK GIRL IN ORDER TO BE THE CHANGE THAT YOU WANT TO SEE.”

DO YOU EVER READ WHAT PEOPLE WRITE ABOUT YOU ONLINE OR ON SOCIAL MEDIA?

If I see anything that upsets me, I don’t want to overthink it. If I upload pictures to Instagram, I’ll wait and then maybe come back later. I like peace. I don’t like problems. So I often tend to avoid it.

LET’S TALK HAIR… YOU’RE NOT AFRAID TO TRY ANY LOOK. WHERE DOES THAT LEVEL OF CONFIDENCE COME FROM?

When it comes to me I wasn’t much of a make-up babe but hair was my thing. I remember not only doing my hair growing up but all my friends in the school playground, even some of their parents. The thing with hair is that I love the way it allowed me to express myself. each style brought out a different energy. There’s something about that ‘new hair feeling’ that can’t be matched.

WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THE NARRATIVE THAT WOMEN WHO WEAR HAIR EXTENSIONS DO NOT LOVE THEMSELVES?

It’s completely incorrect. I do it for protection and convenience. Anything to make my life a litte easier I will do. Putting my hair away for two or three weeks increases my hair health than rocking it out 24/7, all year round.

CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR PODCAST ‘NAILING IT’, WITH CO-HOSTS SAYO (SIMPLYSAYO) AND WUNMI (THE WUNMI BELLO SHOW). WHAT’S BEEN YOUR MOST POPULAR EPISODE SO FAR AND WHY DO YOU THINK IT STRUCK A CHORD?

I think it might be ‘The Pressure Is Getting Worser’. This was a discussion about the transition of adulting, from your early 20s to your mid 20s. At this time, I have friends who are ready to settle down. They have two kids already, they’re ready for marriage. But on the other hand, I have friends who don’t even know what they’re doing with their lives. When we were 11 years old, we all thought we’d have it all figured out by now. We thought we’d have our cars, houses, kids and marriage. Obviously the pressure is getting worse, but we need to be reminded to turn this pressure down because these are our learning years. When I turn 30, it’s going to be one of my best years ever. I’m excited for it. I’ve let go of that pressure of needing to

be perfect before I’m 30. Right now, just figuring out who you are is super essential.

WE LOVE THAT ‘NAILING IT’ TAKES PLACE IN A NAIL SALON! WHAT DO YOU THINK IT IS ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENT OF A SALON THAT GETS EVERYONE TALKING?

The nail shop is the equivalent of the barber shop. You go in, you have a chat, might have a glass of wine, and you’re just free to talk. It’s a woman’s safe space. Yeah, your nail tech probably knows everything about you, but whatever you say in the nail shop stays in the nail shop. It’s a judgement free zone. And you’re getting pampered at the same time. With ‘Nailing It’, this allows us to recreate organic conversations because we know it’s a safe space. We call it our ‘safety triangle’, because there are three of us hosts.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR NEW PROJECT SOUNDZ OF THE DIASPORA?

Soundz Of The Diaspora is my new baby that I’m very excited about. I’ve curated a playlist inspired by afrobeats music with 100 tracks that I update each & every friday. The aim is to shine a light on the fast growing genre and also collaborate with musicians around the world. I always say music shoud be a love language, so this is me sharing love with my people

WHAT IS YOUR NEXT CAREER MOVE AND WHAT’S YOUR ADVICE TO SOMEONE WHO IS SCARED TO DO SOMETHING THEY’VE ALWAYS WANTED TO DO?

Spell & Priscilla: working together frequently on hair campaigns

Presenting – it’s something that I’ve done over the years on and off. Everyone knows me as the model or the influencer, but my real passion is talking to people and being in front of the camera. When it comes to career advice, I’d say you miss 100 per cent of the shots that you don’t take. I would hate to live with regret, so one thing I would definitely say is that everything is worth trying once. If it doesn’t go well, try something else. But living with that regret will eat you up, so just go for it.

WE KNOW THAT HOT GIRL SUMMER IS ON THE WAY - BUT WHAT DOES HOT GIRL SPRING LOOK LIKE FOR YOU?

Hot Girl Spring is exactly what summer looks like. Enjoyment 24/7. We call it ‘soft life, but extra fluffy’, (turn to page 28 for more). Life is for living; we’ve been through the pandemic, so Hot Girl Spring is just about enjoying your life as much as you can, whenever you can. That might mean treating yourself when you want, having that extra bit of chocolate, booking that holiday, getting your nails done, going for that walk, or going out to eat. Just do it.

“THE THING ABOUT HAIR IS THAT I LOVE THE WAY IT ALLOWED ME TO EXPRESS MYSELF. EACH STYLE BROUGHT OUT A DIFFERENT ENERGY”

ISAMAYA FFRENCH Wildstar Pressed Pigment Palette, £85

Glitz and glam doesn’t have to be OTT. Customise your look with this versatile eye palette.

X-PRESSION

Ultra Braid in colour, £2.99

When it comes to braids and colour there are no rules. Warm things up with a soft cinnamon. Colour code: 350

Get the cover look

Replicate Priscilla’s sunkissed glow and boho-esque braids- perfect for all year round

AS I AM Jamaican Black Castor Oil Double Butter Cream, £10.95

Prep and style curls of any kind as well as fine baby hairs with this luxe cream formulated with pro-vitamin B5.

AS I AM Jamaican Black Castor Oil Water, £8.95

The nano-blend of ceramides and vitamins makes this a top-grade water spritz to rehydrate braids and other protective looks.

PRISCILLA’S PERSONAL PICKS

FENTY Body Sauce Body

Luminizing Tint, £40 and Fenty Beauty

Pro Filt’r Instant Retouch Concealer, £21

BEAUTYBLENDER Original, £17.50

ARDELL

Wispie Lashes in style 703, £4.95

RAMADAN RITUALS

Ramadan starts on 22nd March, marking the beginning of a month of self-discipline in the form of fasting during daylight hours. During this sacred time, care for your mental and physical wellbeing by putting aside time for yourself. A great place to start is finding ways to stay grounded and implementing a gentle self-care routine. Moisturise porous curls with Pattern’s Intensive Conditioner. Meanwhile, purify your complexion with Skin Proud’s Wonder Clay and finish your routine off with a soothing face massage.

spell loves

FEED YOUR INNER PRODUCT JUNKIE

SKIN PROUD

Wonder Clay, £12.95

CRYSTAL CLEAR

Amethyst to Jade to Rose Quartz, £18

TOP 3 BRANDS FOR CROCHET HAIR

PATTERN Intensive Conditioner, £25

Tap into the allure of curly crochet hair with these selected picks from the Spell team. Customise big luscious curls with the African Collection Jamaican Bounce which comes in a tightly bound 26 inches. For efficiency, take advantage of the Urban Pre-Looped 4-in1 loop system designed to cut down on installation time, as one strand is made up of four tendrils. And let’s not forget your little one’s post-Easter back-to-school style – Outre X-Pression

Lil Looks is perfect for the classroom and playground.

From ultra-moisturising lip oils to perfectly coiled crochet hair, here are the essentials we’re reaching for this spring

OUTRE Lil Looks, from £4

URBAN PRE-LOOPED from £4.99

AFRICAN COLLECTION Jamaican Bounce 26”, £5.99

WORN BY COVER STAR

Skin Proud

READ MY LIPS

Lip oils are the perfect hybrid product that works to nourish and hydrate your lips, all while giving them an irresistibly glossy pout. Get ready to save on money and space in dinky makeup bags, as the latest launches come with impressive formulas that impart shine with zero stickiness and a sunkissed glow.

DON’T HATE, EXFOLIATE

It’s been five years since the ban on microbeads. So, if you’re still searching for an effective exfoliating alternative, look no further than Natural Jem’s African Exfoliating Sponge. Made from a reusable 100% nylon antibacterial net, it’s not a ‘want’ but a ‘need’ if you’re all about that smooth skin life.

ALL EYES ON YOU

Eyewear isn’t one-size-fits-all, as we’ve been led to think. Protect your eyes in style – without your frame slipping down the bridge of your nose every 10 seconds – with Tribal ëyës. This Atlanta-based sunglasses brand has engineered their shades to suit those with wider nasal bridges and bigger alae nasi (the wings of the nostrils) for better comfort. Now, where’s that sun?

NATURAL JEM African Exfoliating Sponge, £5-£6.50

TRIBAL ËYËS Sunglasses, from £183.56

ATHLETIA Lip Oil Essence, £18

CIATÉ LONDON Bronze Glow Shimmering Lip Oil, £14

DR. PAWPAW Shimmer Balm, £3.95

HOW TO MANIFEST YOUR

soft girl era

Say goodbye to burnout and hustle culture and welcome in a slower, gentler way of living

Some truly thrive when it comes to the hustle and bustle. The mere thought of ‘slowing down’ is so alien to them, that they cannot bear to imagine it. But others find that grind culture is slowly wearing them down and losing its appeal. However, while the majority of millennials draw their work ethic from boomer parents, generation Z has launched a war on hustle culture, eschewing potential burnout for mental health days and digital detoxes. This has paved the way for the ‘soft girl’ aesthetic to become far more than just a style; it is now a lifestyle, characterised by the softness that comes with a slow life, rather than the hard and fast rhythm of the hustle.

Soft focus

Three influencers living their best soft girl life

ACCORDING TO URBAN DICTIONARY, ‘SOFT LIFE’ IS “WHERE YOU MAKE DECISIONS THAT LEAVE YOU FEELING STRESS-FREE AND VIBRATING HIGHER”

Holding images by Cliché Beachwear

Elements for the soft touch

WHERE DID THE SOFT GIRL LIFESTYLE COME FROM?

Megan Thee Stallion introduced us to ‘hot girl summer’ in 2019, when our prepandemic lifestyles allowed us to live unapologetically, freely, confidently and with empowerment. Then, just one year later, the hot girl life swiftly came to a standstill. With our empowerment all but lost, the pandemic put into perspective that life is simply too short not to do the things we love.

However, once the world opened up once again (albeit in dribs and drabs), it was a struggle to fully re-engage with the hot girl lifestyle that we had once taken for granted. Instead, it was time for a new era –the soft girl era.

WHAT IS SOFT GIRL LIFE?

According to Urban Dictionary, ‘soft life’ is “where you make decisions that leave you feeling stress-free and vibrating higher”. Soft life is not synonymous with a luxury life – and it’s important to remember that. While it would be nice to be shaking your “ass on yacht in Dubai”, as Nella Rose so comically put it, the concept is actually about slowing down, reconnecting with nature and unapologetically putting yourself first. It’s about building habits and creating a life where you can thrive outside of hustle culture. It’s not about trying to curate the perfect aesthetic for your Instagram profile, which seems to be an overarching theme in millennial behaviour.

On the other hand, social media is where the name of this antithesis to workaholism first came from. #SoftGirl videos have accumulated over one billion views on TikTok alone. The topic is clearly trending with the app’s key demographic – people under the age of 25, many of whom are now entering the world of work. But it should be said that, although the name is a typical Gen-Z moniker, the concept itself is nothing new. We’ve seen glimpses of soft girl life in now-vintage pop culture. Think of characters like Toni Childs (from Girlfriends) and Hilary Banks (from The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air), who adopted this way of living long before hashtags existed. They both lived unabashedly comfortable lives and were known for putting themselves first.

So, we’ve already got all the ingredients and tools needed to live a soft girl life – all that is required is permission from ourselves to push against the all-systems-go culture that we’re so used to, and embrace a gentler lifestyle with open arms.

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AFROANI Rose Hair Pick, £14.32

VELOUR Plant Fibre Lashes, £22

TROPIKARA Lava Cap, £39.99

Customise your gentle vibe by enhancing your best features without going overboard

HOW TO LIVE A SOFT GIRL LIFE

Follow these steps to manifest your soft girl

ENVISION THE WOMAN YOU WANT TO BECOME

Create a mood board to define the type of woman you wish to be, and the life you want to have for yourself. Hang this up somewhere you can see every day. The purpose of this mood board is to encourage and remind you to take action towards becoming the best version of yourself.

Don’t know who that woman is yet, or what that life looks like? Here’s an exercise to try. The next time you walk into a room, pretend that you are someone who exudes confidence. For example, ask yourself: how would Rihanna walk into a room? How would she act? Sometimes, in the words of the Lift Me Up singer herself, “you have to fake it till you make it”.

SET BOUNDARIES

Set boundaries that are important to you and start standing firm in your decisions. In 2023, practice saying ‘no’ to things that don’t make you happy. Remember, you have no responsibility for the happiness of most other people, especially if that means having to jeopardise your own happiness. There is such thing as a ‘good kind of selfish’.

SELF-CARE AND MORE SELF-CARE

Don’t be afraid to slow down and cater to yourself. A soft girl life is all about romanticising even the most

mundane activities. You don’t have to break the bank and jet off to the Maldives to have a relaxing holiday. Instead, you could be setting time aside to read before you go to bed, or taking yourself out on date.

GET DRESSED UP

Why wait until you have a fancy date to get dressed up? If it makes you feel good to get glammed up for work or even a trip to the shops, don’t inhibit yourself.

GET RID OF TOXIC PEOPLE

If there are people in your life who bring nothing but negativity, try to distance yourself from them. It can be difficult to cut friends or family off entirely, but weaning yourself off interacting with them can make a positive impact to your mental health. The moment you start surrounding yourself with like-minded people and those who truly support you, you will see a difference in your life.

LIVE AUTHENTICALLY

Lastly, while there might be a certain aesthetic that pairs with the soft girl life (think pastels and feminine clothing, fresh flowers lining vases around the house, and ‘clean girl’ style makeup) this doesn’t reflect the principle meaning of the movement. Focus less on following the aesthetic and more about living authentically and in alignment with the true you.

X-PRESSION

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BESTSELLER

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BLONDE MOMENT

Short cut your way to this high maintenance colour with our protective style edit

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Scalp care is the new skin care

In the pursuit of healthy hair goals, scalp care usually comes as an afterthought – but now, with the help of a new wave of targeted products, we’re relishing in our roots

Scalp care has traditionally been seen as the dull and least fun aspect of haircare. But in recent years, there’s been increasing interest from consumers on how to cultivate a healthy and well-maintained scalp. Market research experts have observed that searches for scalp care advice have soared, averaging 162,000 plus monthly on Google, and growing each month. Subsequently, we’re now plugged into trichologists like @enitanhaircoach and @thecurlid who are using their online platforms to spread the importance of good scalp care using fun, digestible messaging

via Reels and TikToks. But why is scalp hygiene such an integral part of a healthy hair regime? “It’s really important that we have a healthy environment for our hair to grow to its full potential,” explains Samantha Stewart MIT, consultant trichologist and co-founder of Curl iD. “Our scalp is home to yeast and bacteria that, for the most part, live in harmony, but occasionally this microbiome can become unbalanced and lead to irritation and scaling.”

The root of the problem

So, what’s the first step we can take

to avoid these common problems?

“Always ensure that the hair and scalp are washed regularly. This will make sure that the scalp microbiome is kept at a healthy level,” Samantha advises. “When washing, avoid scratching the scalp with fingernails. A gentle but thorough massage of the scalp with the pads of the fingers is all that is needed.” Using traditional shampoos and conditioners as part of your healthy hair routine is fine, but if you are experiencing common scalp problems like dryness, irritation and flakiness, it may be time to invest in products specifically formulated for

Photography by Michael Young. Hair by Melissa Timperley.

Make-up by Faye HJ Cumberbatch.

Styling by Rubina Vita Marchiori

THE scalp care SHELFIE

From left: KRISTIN ESS Scalp Purifying Micellar Shampoo, £10; AVEDA Overnight Scalp Renewal Serum, £42; BRIOGEO Scalp Mask, £30; FLORA & CURL Scalp Refresh Mist, £14; CANTU Pre-Poo Treatment, £9; HAIRBURST Scalp Stimulating Brush, £9

scalp care. In recent years cult brands have emerged like Healthy Hair Studio, Cantu List and Kristin Ess, which produce products addressing the key issues related to the scalp. Additionally, brands like Briogeo, Aveda and Philip Kingsley have launched offshoot collections specifically designed for scalp concerns.

Make it an inside job

Trichologists and other experts are really keen to drive home the message that making healthy food choices is one of the most significant things we can do to balance our bases.

Samantha Stewart, suggests that a rich and varied diet should be added into what we consider a healthy hair regime. “A diet rich in antioxidants and omegas will help to protect the scalp as it grows,” she says. “This can help to decrease internal inflammation that can cause scalp irritation. Antioxidantrich foods such as spinach, leafy

greens, avocados and berries are great, in addition to foods rich in omegas 3 and 6 such as walnuts, almonds and pecans. Flaxseed oil, chia seeds and oily fish are good options too.”

When to seek help

If you’re embarking on a scalp care regime and feel you haven’t made any progress or, worse still, your scalp seems continually blighted by disorders like dryness, flakes and dandruff, it might be time to seek the help of a professional trichologist. “The signs that you need to look out

for are scaling, which can present itself as yellow, white or grey scale,” Samantha Stewart informs us. “This scale may be firmly or loosely attached. If the scalp is very itchy, constantly scratching the area can cause hair breakage. It is essential to seek advice from a licensed professional if you are suffering from any of the above signs, as using the incorrect treatment could cause a mild scalp condition to become aggravated and lead to more long term damage such as breakages and in some cases thinning or significant hair loss.”

brands TO BOOKMARK

Cleanse Grow Hydrate

Castor oil, and in particular, Jamaican black castor oil is having quite a moment. Now you can incorporate the muchloved ingredient into your all-round daily beauty regime

THE BODY SHOP Cleansing Conditioner, £14

SUNNY ISLE Eyelash & Eyebrow Serum, £17.99

Anti-Dandruff Moisturising Braid Oil, £2.99

While us Brits have ramped up how much plastic we recycle from our kitchens, personal care products account for a third of landfill waste. Unable to ignore growing consumer demand, beauty brands have embraced the war on waste by paring back on non-recyclable packaging or switching from plastic in favour of glass and aluminium with some items wholly reusable from pump to pouch. Some are going one step further still. Enter refillables, the answer to reducing the contents of our bathroom bins (and our annual expenditure on beauty, too).

Clockwise from top left: AIRFRO 00.1 PHiT, £20.49; SCULPTED BY AIMEE HydraGlo Refill, £23; HAIRSTORY New Wash Rich Refill Kit, from £44; THE BODY SHOP Refill Bottle, £2; AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Hydrate Cleanser Refill, £22.50; FIILS Body Lotion Aluminium 400ml Bottle, £6; FENTY SKIN Overnight Recovery Gel-Cream Refill, £34; DAME Reusable Tampon Applicator Set, £30.99; LETHAL COSMETICS Customizable Palette, £12.50; THE ORGANIC PHARMACY Rose Diamond Cleanser Refill, £42

How to navigate the screenshot-worthy trends sensibly and safely

Holding images by Lottie London

Meet the expertS

It’s official: TikTok is our go-to resource to scroll for the newest and most noteworthy beauty tips, tricks and hacks. A recent report by digital tools platform LaunchMetrics revealed TikTok’s increasing influence on our bathroom cabinets, naming the social media platform as having the strongest impact growth for beauty brands, with an increase of 176% year-on-year. Yes, TikTok’s allowed us to up our beauty game via our digital peers as well as celebrities, but alongside the good advice there’s plenty of the bad and the ugly (not to mention the trends that are gone in a flash – hello, menstrual face masks). More importantly, there are some clips that have caution written all over them. Many pros are advising users to take care when recreating TikTok beauty trends at home. “I have to say TikTok is a major source of frustration especially with younger clients as they’re taking advice as gospel,” says skincare expert Dija Ayodele, author of Black Skin - The Definitive Skincare Guide. “Generally, I think there’s a lot of misinformation out there pushing these trends and they can be very dangerous and hyped up. I’ve seen people injure themselves trying these trends and even cause life-long disfigurement from trying to tattoo freckles onto their skin or micro-needling makeup

NOTOX

Off the back of ‘skinminimalism’ and rise of social media app BeReal, “Notox” has gained momentum as more of us look to get skin beautiful without a syringe in sight. Trend forecasters WGSN hailed 2023 the year of ‘tweakments’, so keep an eye-out for double barrelled buzzwords like lab-grown, and doctorfounded. TikTokers are in love with LED facial masks and topical treatments that promise fewer frowns that are needle-free.

into their skin.” Dija urges TikTokers to be careful about who they’re receiving beauty advice from. “I say to people, especially younger clients: look at the qualifications of the people behind these 90-second videos. Are they professionals? Do they have medical qualifications, or any standing on these issues?” Also, Dija adds, apply some common sense before you embrace the

next viral vid. “Just because people are jumping off a cliff would you jump off a cliff as well? Trends aren’t universal. Just because it works for one person it doesn’t mean it will work for you.” So before you dye your eyebrows pink or add ‘wolf cut’ to your hair wish-list, read our reality check on the latest beauty tips from the world of TikTok – ones you can try sensibly and safely.

WHAT TO TRY:

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SWEARBY SKIN

Looklit Mask, £80 INSTITUT ESTHEDERM

Intensive Hyaluronic Eye Serum, £35

Dija Ayodele Author of Black Skin –The Definitive Skincare Guide

Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme Medical Director of award-winning Adonia Medical Clinic

Cynthia Adjei Founder of DW Aesthetics

SKINCYCLING

Originally coined by dermatologist and brand founder Dr Whitney Bowe, the method of skincycling has gone from strength to strength on TikTok. What’s the theory? Dr Bowe suggested that the most effective way to skin perfection was to use active ingredients on certain days followed by “rest days” to help prevent over exfoliation and irritation. She recommends using a leave-on product over something that’s wash-off, like a cleanser. Night two is a retinoid application. While nights three and four are reserved for “rest and recovery”.

WHAT TO TRY:

FACE WATER DUMPS

With claims it makes skin brighter, less puffy and can relieve anxiety along the way, Lucerouriondo1, whose video has been viewed 1.6 million times, suggests two to three rounds of 10-13 second dips in iced cold water works wonders. Historically, the concept of cold-water therapy or cryotherapy has a long legacy, however our skin expert Dija advises the following: “Salicylic acid, sunscreen, retinoid, they are what ultimately give you the appearance of smaller pores and better looking skin.” If your interest is still piqued, here are some alternatives.

WHAT TO TRY:

HELLO KLEAN Shower Head, £56

KIEHL’S Ultra Facial Advanced Repair Barrier Cream, £34

LIZ EARLE Smooth & Glow Exfoliating Tonic, £20

DW AESTHETICS Vitamin C Glow Serum, £44.99

HAIR SYRUP

Good old oiling the hair and scalp is now coined hair syrup. It focuses on pre-washing with oils, a throwback to popular Luster’s Pink pre-treatment hot oils. Fans are readily taking up oils elsewhere in their regime. Rosemary oil, for instance, is particularly popular right now on TikTok, touted as a remedy for hair growth and ridding your scalp of irritation and dandruff. Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme recommends, “Rosemary Oil which has been proven to be good for preventing hair loss and encouraging hair growth. The rosemary plant contains carnosic acid which is known to heal nerve and tissue damage and improve cellular turnover. Some trials using rosemary oil have proven it is just as effective as minoxidil – a common drug used for hair.” Given many believe hair syrup’s roots come from Indian culture, it shouldn’t really come under the banner of trend, but as a concept, the act of dosing your strands in moisture is one we can appreciate and give thanks for!

MIELLE Organics Mint

Almond Oil, £12.99

WHAT TO TRY: CRÈME OF NATURE

Pure Honey

Invigorating

Scalp Oil, £5.99

Flourish

Intelligent Hair Boost System, £15

NYLAH

SPELL MEETS Soundbites

ALEXIE HYLTON consultant

trichologist at Elite Nine Hair Clinic

“Trichologists help clients identify medical hair loss conditions and prevailing scalp issues. It’s common for people to not be aware of their condition until they see their hair shedding or falling out. A blood test checking iron, B12 and testosterone levels will help give an accurate diagnosis and highlight underlying health issues like polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS).”

SARAH AKINTERINWA

Author of Why You'll Never Find the One

“The inspiration for my book came from my own personal experiences of love and dating and the stories and experiences my friends and family share with me. I remember having an epiphany after a heartbreak in my twenties that I was just as incompatible with that person as I was with the person before. Therefore, who’s to say there’s just one person in my life that I’ll fall madly in love with. Overall, I felt inspired to let people know that they have more options than they really think when it comes to dating and relationships.”

JADORE KID AKA JK Cartoonist and digital designer

“Luckily for me I grew up in a creative household where I was encouraged to explore my creativity, whether it be upcycling an old table, customising clothes, or creating our own Christmas decorations! During 2020 lockdown, my passion for drawing grew and I just kept drawing!"

JENNIE ROBERTS

“I’m a huge fan of Day Two hair because it works on every texture and style. We need to condition ourselves into believing frizz isn’t a dirty word –let’s reclaim it! It’s gives type 3 and type 4 hair a unique 3D appearance. In the right context, frizz is our friend and doesn’t mean damaged.”

Curlsmith global brand ambassador

BEAUTY

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HAIR

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EXTRAS

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