08 2021
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Goddess prowess The summer glow-up issue
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4C CORKSCREW AFRO
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10 How to wash the latest protective styles
22 Spell loves
Contents 04 S coop Breaking beauty news and the latest hair happenings 06 E verything you need for going out-out Hot picks for the ultimate glam 08 Baby got back Statement pieces to dress up your back 10 H ow to wash the latest protective styles Hair-changing tips for a deep cleanse
04 Scoop
14 Fine art Explore colour with the new X-pression Ultra Braid Pre-Stretched shades 16 P oolside prints The most flattering swimsuits from black-owned designers 18 P lus-size feeds to follow The influencers and models rewriting the summer body rulebook
24 The fallout: dealing with postpartum hair loss
20 V irtual makeover We swap over-the-counter make-up shopping for virtual reality 22 S pell loves Feed your inner product junkie 24 T he fallout: dealing with postpartum hair loss Mother of four Zenovia Grant shares her story 26 B ulletin The latest offers from spellbeauty.com 08 Baby got back
08 2021
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More pages
Goddess prowess The summer glow-up issue
spellmagazine.com
Cover of Urban Locs Micro Locs
16 Poolside prints
EDITOR Jemima Cousins SUB EDITORS Gemma Rusiecki, Julie Vuong WRITERS Jennifer Meredith, Keysha Davis, Erica Matthews DESIGNER Marzena Wilk
FIND US ONLINE @spellmagazine E: editorial@spellmagazine.com
COVER OF URBAN LOCS MICRO LOCS FULL CREDITS INSIDE BACK COVER
© 2021 Feme Ltd. Reproduction of the contents of Spell Magazine in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are the author’s own, and may not reflect the views and opinions of Feme Ltd.
P O SCO ry goss! all the indust Bulletin with
"I LOVE LONDON – IT FUELS MY CREATIVITY"
Bloomsbury, Bath Soak, £25
Interview
Learning to say no, finding your signature scent and dispelling myths
BEHIND THE BRAND
SOAPSMITH Every entrepreneur needs a muse, and for Sam Jameson’s luxury bath and body care line, it’s London town. Read the full interview at spellmagazine.com
After 10 years in business the most important lesson I’ve learned is that it’s OK to say no. In fact, it’s a good thing. For years I would break my back to do and deliver everything asked of me. But in the end, I realised that's a) not sustainable, especially with a young family at home and b) it doesn’t actually lead to business success. But what does drive results is being selective and measuring every opportunity against the question 'is it right for my brand,' and then fulfilling those opportunities really, really well. As a child I was always creative, exploring different ideas in my mind. I studied business at university because I knew it would give me a solid foundation for any career, but SPELL
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my creativity and newfound knowledge of business developed into a true entrepreneurial spirit. I knew quite quickly after starting my degree that I wanted to be my own boss, which would allow me to make my ideas a reality. Being a good networker - and having identified a gap in the market - I decided I had a good chance of making a successful events business with a twist. I love London. It fuels my creativity with all its heritage, diversity and odd juxtapositions. My first scent, Lavender Hill, was actually inspired by the area's history; in the 18th century, it was where the distilling and creation of the essential oil occurred. Others such as Hackney were inspired by my personal memories
and experiences. I blend scents based on knowledge and how I experience a place. When it comes to finding your signature scent, it's not so much about the formula – it’s something you find from your heart and soul. When you know, you know. It’s never good to overthink it; I go with my gut. This perception that black-owned businesses are ‘cheap’ or ‘discounted’ is new to me. But if there are people making that assumption I can assure them it’s far from the truth. In fact, many of the blackowned businesses I know, myself included, spend a huge amount on quality products and ingredients. In my opinion it has nothing to do with race: it's the difference between independent brands vs mass manufacturing.
News
CANTU PARTNERS WITH HABIA TO ELEVATE TEXTURED HAIR EDUCATION
Event
Following recent news that all UK-based hairdressers will need to learn how to cut and style afro textured hair, Cantu Beauty and Habia (The Hair & Beauty Industry Authority) are offering free virtual masterclasses to trainee stylists and academies. The Textured Hair Pro-Training Initiative is designed to address the inequalities faced in salon services and empower black and mixed-heritage communities to trust professional stylists from all backgrounds. Well, it's about time!
PRIDE IN LONDON HAS A NEW DATE This year's Pride in London is taking place later than usual on Saturday 11 September. Organisers are urging the LGBT+ community to create banners and placards to help raise awareness on matters relating to visibility, equality and unity. If you're planning on joining the parade, head to prideinlondon.org for a listing of this year’s key themes and messages.
GIVEAWAY Head over to the @SpellBeautyuk Instagram page to win a full set of the Design Essentials Wigs & Extensions Collection with Moroccan Oil, designed to extend the lifespan of human and synthetic hair extensions.
Save vs Splurge
Read
SMASH THOSE CAREER GOALS
L’ORÉAL PARIS Telescopic Mascara, £8.75
Woke At Work by British Nigerian senior commercial banker Joy Omoregie provides strategies for excelling in the corporate world. It's a must-read for any young professional struggling to make their voice heard in the workplace.
MAC COSMETICS Magic Extension Mascara, £20 SPELL
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EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR GOING out-out Primark
With the country opening up, you’ve got every excuse to get glam
After 16 months, the novelty of wearing pyjamas and Felicia-style braids for days on end has frankly worn thin. So as the country gradually releases itself from the shackles of Covid, organising family days out and brunch with the girls can now be a reality. Rewind back to last year and selfcare was at the top of the agenda for many of us. DIY skincare sky-rocketed in popularity as we turned to sheet masks and homemade recipes for the feel-good factor (avocado face mask,
anyone?). But according to research carried out for L’Oreal, 80 per cent of make-up wearers aged between 16 and 34 years old are excited about wearing more make-up after a year of intermittent lockdowns. Meanwhile, nearly half of us (47 per cent) missed putting on make-up for a day or night out. Grace Vernon, global trend lead for No7 Beauty Company, says: “We’re expecting to see a lipstick and lip gloss boom. Women are relishing the fact that they can finally coat their lips without worrying it has smudged all over their SPELL
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face and onto the lining of their mask.” On the hair side, Fudge Professional surveyed 2,000 women and reports that 63 per cent missed visiting the salon while 15 per cent are planning to have a full makeover now restrictions have lifted. Getting back out into the big wide world might require some fine-tuning to your own routine. So if you’re unsure about where to start, we’ve uncovered some new products that all guarantee va va voom for your next night out.
BROW GAME
GLOSSY LOCKS
BIG ‘HURR’
BOBBI BROWN Micro Brow Pencil £21.50
ELVIVE Extraordinary Oil More Than Shampoo £6.99
BIG BEAUTIFUL HAIR CLIP-IN Coily Fro 10” £22.99
ACE THE LACE
HAIR TRICKS
NIGHT AFTER
BOLD HOLD Lace Jelly £7.99
GHD Unplugged £275
MIJ Hydrogel Eye Patch £13.99
HIGH NOTES
MAKE-UP FIX
PUCKER UP
YSL Mon Paris Eau de Parfum £83.20
URBAN DECAY All Nighter Setting Spray £26
W7 Just Tinted Lip Balm £3.95
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Victoria Beckham
@jenn_jem
TRENDS 2021
@nyane
@mpholebajoa
@secondskinlabel
SEOL +, gold studded necklace, £49.95’
@moozlie
BABY GOT BACK
@zimmerman
The devil is in the back detail when it comes to this head-turning trend. From embellishments to crisscross straps, let your clothes do the talking or reverse a long necklace to wear with a backless top or dress.
MONICA VINADER, ‘Lariat’ necklace, £125’
AUREE, Sliver beaded necklace, £110’
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SUBSCRIBE TODAY & GET FREE DELIVERY Stay connected and tune in to the latest news, views and trends in the world of hair and beauty. Head over to spellmagazine.co.uk and spellbeauty.com to purchase the annual subscription. *Only available for delivery in the UK
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How to wash the latest protective styles Hair-changing tips to ensure your style goes the distance
Hair left to right: Urban Locs Micro Locs in colour SM1B/30, length 12” and colour 1, length 18”. Prices from £8.99-£11.99 per pack
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If you’re a regular Spell reader you’ll know how much we adore protective styles. Cue this month’s front cover! From the versatility they provide to the practicality wearing them affords as we go about our busy lives; box braids, faux locs and single braids et al are undoubtedly some of our favourite summer styles. But tucking your hair away into a protective style doesn’t mean you should completely abandon haircare. Washing is a crucial part to maintaining the look (especially if you’ve invested in extensions) and your own hair’s health. If you intend to keep your braids and crochet styles installed between four to eight weeks, then you must keep them clean and allow the scalp to breathe. Product build-up is inevitable and if left unchecked will sit on the scalp causing issues like itching and dandruff. The clogging of pores and dirt sitting on the strands can even lead to hair loss during take-out. With this in mind, here are our top tips on how to wash your protective style to keep your hair fresh without causing it to unravel... LET’S START WITH BRAIDS
Synthetic braids can actually extract moisture from your own hair. How? When your scalp secretes oil, it travels down the hair shaft. But when the hair is braided and intertwined with extensions, the synthetic hair can sap moisture from the oil – preventing it from reaching the rest of your hair. To get around this issue, use a gentle sulphate-free cleanser and add a little extra to the tips to eliminate further drying and tangling. One of the reasons many women refrain from washing their braids is because it takes too long. Spell ambassador Beulah Davina says it can take up to six hours for her box braids to completely dry. For this reason, installing X-Pression Ruwa will make life easier. Designed for frequent washing and watersports, its hydrophobic coating naturally repels moisture, cutting down drying time. Part your braids into different sections and cleanse one at a time as being methodical will speed up the entire wash day process. SPELL
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Urban Twist Spring Twist from £4.59 per pack
SPRING TWISTS
Urban Twist Passion Twist £5.99 per pack
The same approach to washing passions can be applied to spring twists as the two styles are quite similar. When it comes to drying, let the hair dry naturally to prevent your crochet extensions from losing their form and drying out. Using your hands, remove any excess water from the hair and pat down gently with a microfibre towel. To finish, use a moisturising leave-in conditioner or a braid spray. If you decide to use a hairdryer, choose a lower heat setting to allow for a more controlled distribution of styling device. Aways use a heat spray before applying any type of heat as this will help prevent your hair and braided extensions from drying out. Compared to passion twists, spring twists have a more crimped, slightly coarse texture. This can loosen and become weighed down when the hair becomes wet. To compensate, opt for roller sets and flexi rods to give the hair shape and volume.
PASSION TWISTS
Washing passion twists is one of the only tricky parts to wearing this style. If you wash them as you’d usually wash your own hair or even a weave, you run the risk of disrupting the texture and causing irreversible frizz. Some people don’t wash their hair while they’re wearing crochet (the standard method for installing passion twists), and you can probably get away with this if you don’t leave them in for too long and clarify your hair beforehand. To make a cocktail co-wash combine four parts water, two parts sulphate-free co-wash and a detoxifying oil like tea tree. Spray this directly onto the scalp and lengths of the twists and gently rinse off with warm water. Spell says The key to the approach above is focusing your attention on your scalp rather than the extensions. Before you begin, divide your twists into at least four sections to make washing easier. Secure with hair bands or hair claw clamp clips before using your fingers to massage the scalp, applying gentle downward strokes along the lengths to get the twists clean. SPELL
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Urban Locs Micro Locs in 18”
FAUX LOCS
This popular boho style comes in many guises. From butterfly locs to micro locs, all patterns should be handled with care when it comes to shampooing. Rigorous washing will cause the style to unravel - and in the worst case scenario, lead to matting and tangles. Award-winning hairstylist and avid faux loc wearer Dionne Smith has the following care advice: “I wear faux locs and I don’t wash them as often as other protective styles. If you plan to wear them for over four weeks you will get build-up. Use apple cider vinegar – this is an astringent to clear away dirt. Then go in with a moisturising shampoo and let the water run through the hair.” Spell says For convenience and comfort, it’s best to wash faux locs in the shower. Let the water from the shower head run through the strands and carry the shampoo through from the root to tip. This will help keep the loc intact. If you don’t have a shower, use a jug over the bath to pour water along the lengths of your hair for a thorough wash. It’s always best to squeeze and pat dry locs with a microfibre towel to eliminate frizz.
The essentials
Wash day must-haves for braids, twists & locs
X-pression Ruwa, £4.49
Mielle Moisture RX Hawaiian Ginger Moisturising Scalp Treatment, £9.99
Amika Nice Cream Cleansing Conditioning, £15
Soulcap Hair Towel, £24.99
Wow Oils Organic Tea Tree, Green Tea and Peppermint Oils, £11.70
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Hairflair Deluxe Soft Hood, £14.95
Design Essentials Sulphate-free Conditioning Shampoo, £6.95
Photo Why J Miller
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fine art
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Brush up on your colour game with the new X-Pression Ultra Braid Pre-Stretched
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Vivid variations of pink, lime green or honey blonde are strategically placed along the 46-inch pre-stretched hair - resulting in a medley of high-octane colour. All priced £4.15. 1 Hydrangea • 2 Honey Cream • 3 Green Mango • 4 Cherry Blossom • 5 Sunset • 6 Plum Blossom SPELL
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Set your own trends What’s new, exclusive and iconic. Discover our curated digital hair and beauty boutique today.
Biocare Labs
The Feme Collection Afro Puff HH The Feme Collection V
Lace Wig Gloss Waves
Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Liquid Soap
Baby Tress Edge Styler
SPELLBEAUTY.COM SpellBeautyUk
Urban Twist Passion Twist
Kai Collective
POOLSIDE PRINTS Shop the best diverse swimwear With overseas holidays subject to the government’s volatile traffic light system, breaking out our summer swimwear is hanging in the balance. But there’s always staycations to pack for and with the long bank holiday weekend fast approaching, prepare for some fun in the sun with a new bathing suit (or two). Rather than heading to your usual online shopping destination to buy up mass produced bikinis, why not seek out some black-owned fashion brands? There are plenty to choose from and the designs are jaw-droppingly hot! Not only will you be supporting independent businesses, you’ll also be diving into a world of lush prints, sexy cutouts and statement shapes. So whether you’re poolside chilling or sunbathing in the back garden, here are some great designer names to try out...
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KAI COLLECTIVE
HOUSE OF KANAI
CROWN ROSE
Nigerian-British brand Kai Collective has disrupted the swimwear scene with its bestselling Gaia print, which features a distinctive oil painting-like swirl. Made with high-quality printed polyamide fabric that doesn’t fade in the sun, its collection includes dresses, co-ord sets and homeware. This year founder and designer Fisayo Longe was featured on Forbes 30 under 30 entrepreneur 2021 list after being hailed for creating a timeless swim range that offers Insta feed-worthy aesthetics for women worldwide!
Bring a taste of the Caribbean to your staycation with the House of Kanai. If you like your swimwear to be exclusive and not mass produced, then it’s worth casting your eye over this BritishTrinidadian label. Founded by Kadifa Nai Chambers, its neon bright onepieces give off sport-luxe vibes with sexy cut-out designs. For back garden lounging, you have the choice of floorskimming kaftans and bespoke crochet ponchos too. But with limited edition runs only, you’ll have to be quick off the mark to bag your summer style.
Get baecation ready with some matching ‘his and her’ swimwear. Specialising in African prints, Crown Rose’s versatile eye-catching pieces can be worn in and out of water. For example, style one of its backless bathing suits with jeans for a night out and the man in your life can mirror your look with printed shorts and a crisp white shirt. Putting the team in teamwork are its founders Miriam and Nikky, who wanted to merge their African identity with wearable, modern fashion. #PowerCouple
SUNDAY LONDON
ANDREA IYAMAH
ASHERAH SWIMWEAR
If you like your swimwear to be bright, bold and fun, Sunday London is for you! With an ethos that all women should exist ‘loudly’, designer Fallanne Tanya has completed her mission of creating a brand that celebrates women to the max. There’s something for everyone – from reversible cossies to mesh dresses and pattern print sarongs – all made with different shapes in mind. Sizes range from UK 6-20 and you can shop using Klarna’s buy now, pay later service.
Give your next getaway a luxe feel with premium fashion brand Andrea Iyamah. You’ll be spoilt for choice with its ultra-feminine retro silhouettes, which are perfect for taking you from beach to bar. . Founded by Nigerian designer Andrea Dumbei Iyamah, the brand has supplied timeless garments for the female wearer or the A.I woman who thrives off “adventure in spirit, mind and style” for 10 years. Alternatively, check out the label’s glam accessories for some poolside chill.
Sun’s out, buns out! Coined the ‘sexiest women’s swimsuit’, Asherah Swimwear has appeared on the cover of Sport Illustrated. With its array of stylish bikinis, one pieces and cover ups, you’re bound to find the fabric and fit of your dreams. Asherah, which is Hebrew for ‘Goddess of the Sea’, was founded by model-turned-designer Cheryl ‘Cejae’ Jones who uses her graphic design background to create one-of-a-kind statement prints that are guaranteed to set pulses racing.
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Plus-size
From inspirational body positivity accounts to models who deliver cool outfit ideas daily, it’s time to redefine the summer body.
FEEDS TO FOLLOW
NYOME NICHOLAS WILLIAMS Plus-size advocate Meet plus-size model and activist Nyome NicholasWilliams. Thanks to this curve crusader, Instagram changed its nudity policy which previously censored plus-size creators of colour. Follow her for a BTS look at her model life and empowering messages of healing and self-love. @curvynyome
GRACE VICTORY Mental health advocate Apart from serving looks upon looks, Grace Victory truly lives up to her name. This year she became a firsttime mum and overcame her battle with Covid, which sadly put her in a coma for weeks. Her feed is centred around body positivity and strength while you can expect some great yummy mummy content too. @gracefvictory
YAMINAH MAYO Writer If you’re looking for inspo to add colour and print to your wardrobe, Yaminah Mayo is your poster girl. It’s worth checking in just to see her care-free expressive makeup beat and easy-to-follow fitness updates. Read more of her musings on her blog or listen to her podcast Blah Blah Blah where she talks about real life and everything in between. @spicy.mayo
TRINA NICOLE Model, dancer, advocate Trina Nicole has an impressive CV. Not only is she a Spell Squad ambassador, she’s also co-founder of CurltureUK, a platform that teaches the importance of black representation in the beauty industry - has danced for the likes of Lizzo and is CEO of plus-size dance class The Curve Catwalk. Trina, we salute you. @itstrinanicole
SIMONE MARIPOSA Dancer & advocate We couldn’t agree more with Simone Mariposa’s signature hashtag #WeWearWhatWeWant. This LA Instagrammer is all about boldness and living life to the full. Not only does she inspire her audience through dance and on-trend outfits, she’s also at the forefront of debunking myths and stereotypes surrounding plus bodies. @simonemariposa
STEPHANIE YEBOAH Author Get ready to be inaugurated into the school of love (that’s self love, to be exact). Known as the big girl with a big heart, influencer Stephanie Yeboah is a true advocate of self-love whatever your size, gender or colour. Need some summer reading? Check out her book Fattily Ever After: The Fat Black Girls’ Guide To Living Unapologetically. @stephanieyeboah SPELL
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The Feme Collection Afro Puff - Large -colour: 2. © 2021 Feme Ltd.
Made from the finest 100% human hair fibres for a realistic touch
THE
POWER PUFF
FABULOUS ‘FRO SUPERCHARGE YOUR
EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY FEME LTD © 2021 FEME LTD. All rights reserved. feme.com
VIRTUAL makeover Thanks to new developments, buying make-up online just got a lot easier
Before the start of the pandemic, most of us wouldn’t have dreamed of taking a punt on a new foundation without testing it first. But with last year’s unprecedented closure of non-essential shops, switching up our make-up became almost as tricky as navigating the pandemic itself. Luckily, while the nation was panic buying toilet rolls and swapping their office attire for loungewear, beauty brands were busy getting creative so we’d be able to find the correct shades and formulations virtually. And even now we’re out of lockdown and the shops are open again, it’s a convenient change to our lifestyle that we’re all for. SPELL
Yes, we now have a real choice between visiting the makeup counter in person or making an informed decision from the comfort of our sofas. Whether it’s a video call with an expert MUA or a virtual try-on tool that can show you exactly how a new lipstick shade will look on your own face (trust us, they’re really quite addictive), the latest virtual advancements from beauty brands mean that it’s never been easier to buy make-up online. Here are some of our favourite virtual cosmetics stores to add to your must-visit list. Warning: you may find that you never need to visit your go-to make-up counter again...
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BOBBIBROWN.CO.UK Known for its innovations, it’s unsurprising that US mega brand Bobbi Brown has been quick off the mark with its virtual make-up service. If you’re looking for a new lipstick shade, liner or eye shadow, its Virtual Try-On tool means you can have fun colour matching on your own face – either with a photo or in real-time via your webcam. It removes a lot of the uncertainty when selecting new products online and you can see how each product looks on a similar-toned face as your own by selecting from five multi-ethnic models. All pluses – and that’s just the beginning! The brand has also piled in more features like 30-minute virtual consultation slots with its pro-MUAs; a line-up of free masterclasses covering everything from perfecting eyeliner to creating a five-minute routine; Live Video Chats for instant product advice and a Shade Finder quiz to match your undertone.
NARSCOSMETICS.COM Launched with much fanfare, Nars has gone one step further with its virtual shopping experience by making it look like you’re stepping inside one of its actual stores. Its physical shop and e-commerce hybrid is a shopping destination in its own right where you can try-on products virtually, book one-to-one artistry sessions, view MUA tutorials, get shade-matched and – of course – head to the till with your purchase. Beyond product discovery, there’s also a dedicated area with founder François Nars’ virtual photobiography. If you’re looking for a new foundation shade, for example, its Matchmaker tool makes it incredibly easy. Using your webcam or smartphone camera to capture your skin tone, the site takes out the hard work by recommending your perfect shade. You can see exactly how the product might look on your face once applied and also try out one shade cooler or deeper.
MACCOSMETICS.CO.UK What’s most impressive about MAC’s online offering is the sheer number of products available to test via its virtual try-on tool. From lipstick and eyeshadow to foundation and mascara, you can trial over 800 products virtually via your webcam or by uploading a selfie. Earlier this year the brand also launched pre-bookable virtual consultations, giving fans free access to bespoke sessions with its industry-leading pro artists. So if you’ve never quite managed to nail winged eyeliner or want to find the best shade of red lipstick for your skin tone, these completely customisable (and complimentary) 30 or 60-minute slots are for you. There’s also a Chat Function for on-the-go product queries with its experts and video chat for a personalised face-to-face service, which isn’t too far off the experience you’d receive at one of its bricks-and-mortar stores on the high street.
CHARLOTTETILBURY.COM If you want to fine-tune your make-up techniques, Charlotte Tilbury’s site is the place to be. The brand offers a menu of free bookable 15-minute virtual consultations where you can speak to its experts to hone your skills. Choose from masterclasses such as its Supermodel Brow Clinic and Bridal Beauty Tips. Meanwhile, its Foundation Experts session will help you find your perfect base. Each can be booked directly on its site at a time and day to suit you. There’s also a choice of four longer sessions that delve into more detail, with prices starting from £25 (cost redeemable against product purchases). Whether you’d like to know how to create Hollywood cheekbones or want to make your eyes look bigger and brighter, its experts share techniques tailored for you. Charlotte Tilbury fans can also learn from the superMUA herself via her live masterclasses.
SPELL VERDICT: Almost as good as visiting a makeup counter and invaluable for non-city dwellers. We don’t plan to log off anytime soon.
SPELL VERDICT: As close to visiting a real store that you’re probably going to get when shopping online. It’s a big thumbs up from us.
SPELL VERDICT: Browsing for products online has literally never been more fun. Plus, MAC’s virtual consultations are top notch.
SPELL VERDICT: Personalised make-up tips from the comfort of our screen? We’re well and truly hooked.
THE MOBILE APPS CONNECTING YOU TO HAIRDRESSERS Like a digital version of the Yellow Pages, Napps makes it quick and easy to locate and book an appointment with a professional salon-based or mobile hairdresser. The added touch of updated client pictures, star reviews and images of the salon’s interior mean you can book in confidence, especially if you’re a first timer. Sign up at nappsworld.app With the launch of carra.co, personal haircare advice is only a tap away. The user-friendly site pairs you with a hair expert (a bit like match.com), to help you improve your current regime. You’ll be offered a personalised prescription that includes product recommendations and new methods to try at home. Packages start from £40.
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Download your way to the best hair of your life with these must-try apps.
MAGAZINE
spell loves Valentino
FEED YOUR INNER PRODUCT JUNKIE From hardworking suncreens to cutesy accessories, here are the launches we’re lusting after
SPFS FOR ALL SKIN TYPES
For the ultimate protection against UV and UVB rays, you’ll need to find an SPF that can go the extra mile. Shiseido Clear Suncare Stick SPF50+ can be applied as a base layer or over the top of make-up. Meanwhile, a major concern for darker skin tones is using a sunscreen that leaves an ashy cast. Bioderma Photoderm Max Aquafluid comes to the rescue leaving no white traces while Rosalique 3 in 1 Anti-Redness Miracle Formula is developed for hypersensitive skin. Lastly, the wide dispersing spray pump on Sun Protect Kids Coloured Sun Spray makes it perfect for protecting younger skin from all angles.
Shiseido Clear Suncare Stick SPF50+, £28
Bioderma Photoderm Max Aquafluid, £14.50
Sun Protect Kids Coloured Sun Spray SPF50+, £5
Rosalique 3 in 1 AntiRedness Miracle Formula, £29.99
INSTA LOVE
Pics & captions we’ve liked on the ‘gram this month
@kellyrowland Caption: Been had the drip, like waves. Thank you @lorraineschwartz
@hypebae Caption: @mattel has debuted a new @barbie doll featuring tennis star @naomiosaka.
SPELL
@zarahome Caption: many more #recipes at #zarahome.com
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@barackobama Caption: With so many folks getting together, there’s a lot to celebrate this summer. I put together a playlist of the songs I’ve been listening to....
THE ACCESSORIES SHOP
AFROANI Rainbow Hair Clips, £5.99
ORI LIFESTYLE Deep Conditioning Heat Cap, £22
Criminal Damage
The pandemic has prompted a surge in new blackowned businesses and this includes a wave of independent accessories brands. When it comes to haircare, Ori Lifestyle adopts a holistic approach with its natural care essentials. Meanwhile, Afroani expands its accessories collection with a line up of plush clips and combs. Lastly, for great bespoke buys, check out Melanin World and Radswan.
RADSWAN Scarf, £20
MELANIN QUEEN Tote Bag, £39.99
TURN HEADS
The multi-clip look is a favourite among influencers (and the Spell team)! Get in on the trend with Hairslydz. Its new collection comprises satin-ruched headbands, neon clips and slides that come in a matte and gloss finish. Go for broke by styling different styles all in the same colour for a cool artsy vibe.
DRESS UP JOGGERS
Tracksuit bottoms may have been something you only wore to bed or to WFH, but the lockdown fashion favourite is now stylish enough to make your entire outfit. Copy the celebs by pairing your favourite joggers with a fitted tee and heels or go for the full head-to-toe co-ord set. Need to update your wardrobe? Check out the laid-back styles by UK label Criminal Damage.
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THE FALLOUT: DEALING WITH POSTPARTUM HAIR LOSS Photo by Ismail Hadine
Zenovia Grant shares her journey of coping with hair loss after pregnancy
When people think about pregnancy, their thoughts are often centred around the kind of experience it will be. Should they go for a water birth, perhaps? Will their body snap back and how will it affect their finances? Hair loss is never usually at the top of the list. I’m a mum of four and my first encounter with postpartum hair loss was after the birth of my second child. While I remember the time fondly, it wasn’t the same when it came to my hair. Like most pregnant women I noticed an uptake in the growth, so I didn’t pay attention to the spareness.
WHAT THE EXPERT SAYS Postpartum hair loss affects most women to some degree, but it can be quite alarming for some. Following childbirth a larger number of hairs than normal enter the resting phase, which is followed by hair shedding (and regrowth). New mothers will experience greater than normal hair loss once the resting phase ends. This is temporary and isn’t related to breastfeeding. Michael Van Clarke
It felt wafer thin but what was lacking in volume I was receiving in length. So that’s got to be a win, right? Wrong. I’ll never claim to be a ‘birth pro,’ however I’ve always been intuitively connected to my body. I can detect changes before they fully manifest, and yet somehow, postpartum hair loss took me to a whole new mama stomping ground. Two days after giving birth I remember running my hands through my hair and seeing clumps of it coming out in my fingers. I internalised the panic SPELL
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until I noticed my hairline was breaking – badly. That’s when I turned to Dr Google. I searched for answers to questions like: ‘Why is my hair falling out after giving birth? Does hair grow back after childbirth? What are the top tips for faster hair growth?’ Of course I knew at the time that Google wasn’t the beacon for medical advice, but I was desperate for answers - and it didn’t take long for me to find them. I clicked on the first link, which had the description: ‘Postpartum shedding, also known as postpartum hair loss, is caused by the change in hormones after giving birth.’
LOSING YOUR CROWNING GLORY FOR THE FIRST TIME My hair loss made me feel vulnerable, unsexy, insecure and emotional. In a nutshell, I didn’t feel feminine anymore. And everyone was so preoccupied with the newborn that I felt like I didn’t exist, which meant I couldn’t share what I was experiencing with anyone. I started researching ways to revive my hair. Natural products were at the top of the list because I was breast feeding. I started with DIY protein hair treatments mixing argan oil, aloe vera, avocado and egg treatments to strengthen my follicles. I started to cowash every day and leave my hair to dry naturally. I found this to be effective yet despite seeing results after eight weeks I wanted more.
“POSTPARTUM HAIR LOSS TOOK ME TO A WHOLE NEW MAMA STOMPING GROUND” I moved onto washing my hair with rice water. The idea was to try and shock my hair back into a new growth phase. It didn’t work. I needed a solution that would get me out of this rut, so I
looked up the big chop (BC) online. The testimonies were intoxicating. Women swore they found the experience liberating and felt a regaining of power. This made sense to me as I felt like my hair was holding my mental state to ransom. I Googled women who were similar in complexion and had my hair type; having 4C hair, I needed to feel certain that my hair pattern could carry the look.
Zenovia’s postpartum hair loss six weeks after giving birth.
“I AM NOT MY HAIR” My hair ‘misbehaving’ and not growing as it should made me feel a deep sense of failure. When I finally committed to going through with the BC I felt liberated, especially from those crippling anxious thoughts. I knew that I needed to allow myself time to grow into this renewed sense of self and appreciate the journey. POSTPARTUM ADVICE My advice to anyone going through a similar experience is to keep it simple. Pregnancy is a whirlwind time for any woman so be kind to yourself and your mental state. Your body is going through a lot and you must be prepared for the process. What helped me the most was discovering the community support and wealth of information for natural hair online. Sisters are sharing their stories, which in turn erases the feeling of shame or embarrassment. I’ve come to learn a woman’s true beauty lies in her soul and her journey - and that has nothing to do with the length of her hair.
First day snap with the big chop.
Wearing clip-in extensions with a fuller hairline.
brands TO BOOKMARK
Buys to minimise post-pregnancy hair loss while maximising new growth
SUNNY ISLE Extra Dark Jamaican Black Castor Oil, from £3.50
OLAPLEX No.3 Hair Perfector, £26
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MICHAEL VAN CLARKE LifeSaver UV Leave-in Styling Treatment, £24
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PHILIP KINGSLEY Elasticizer Therapies Egyptian Jasmine & Mandarin, £22
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ON A ROLL These customised skates are perfect for summer - now to learn how to roller skate...
GONE FOR GOOD The closure of 81 Gap stores, beginning this month, marks another blow to the UK high street.
You looked amazing in the Jamaican Bounce 26” (pictured). How did this hairstyle make you feel? Honestly, I felt like a goddess. I live by the mantra that I wear my hair, it doesn’t wear me. I own my styles even if I feel a bit shaky; sometimes if it’s a new look there might be an element of doubt. Before it gets to the next level, I remember I’m the boss. Yes, I hype myself up all the time.
fits your head shape. I have a small head, so I need to make sure the style is in proportion, which sometimes means using less hair. When it comes to colour be sensible and realistic, especially when replicating a hairstyle you’ve seen online. Assess whether it complements your skin tone because you’re not the woman in the picture, so you can’t be mad at my hairdresser if it isn’t exactly the same.
What’s the key to making a wig look effortlessly natural? Make sure the style
Motivation is a big part of your ethos. What made you motivate others?
@esthermukundgi
PUT A CAP ON IT The rejection of specialised swim caps for use by naturalhaired swimmers in the Olympics has us disappointed, to say the least. @gapuk
TO THE NINES This summer, the term ‘overdressed’ does not exist. Ball gown at brunch, anyone?
RING RING This nostalgic ring trend is making waves on TikTok. Just don’t try to use any kind of writing utensil. @soulcapofficial
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XOXO The Gossip Girl reboot has finally landed in the UK and we’re obsessed with the new cast.
Jamaican Bounce 26” in colour 1B, £5.99
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To read the full interview and for more style inspo, head over to spellmagazine.co.uk
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In this life we all need pick-me-ups. Not everyone has a supportive network of family or friends. I wanted to be that voice of reason, worthiness, honesty and transparency. I am human and regardless of what you see on social media, a lot of us are walking similar paths when it comes to feeling demotivated. My goal is to show people, particularly women, that they are not alone. Through my Monday Motivation they can come to an understanding that we are all figuring out this thing we call life.
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COVER CREDITS Photography Luke Nugent Hair Michelle Thompson Make-up Natasha Wright Styling Erica Matthews
WHERE TO FIND SPELL SALONS
AFROTHERAPY 235 Fore Street, London, N18 2TZ, 020 8345 5621 APRIL HAIR SALON 5 Bull Street, Burnley, BB11 1DW, 01282 839 726 CHOP CHOP LONDON 60 Charlotte Rd, London EC2A 3QT; 020 3488 1492 COBELLA 5 Kensington High Street, London, W8 5NP, 020 7118 1277 DKUK 191 Queen's Road, Peckham, London, SE15 2NG, 020 3609 0920 ELITE HAIR LOUNGE 24 Sidney Road, London, SW9 0TS, 020 7207 5904 GEORGE KOSIT HAIR 10-12 Bristol Street, Birmingham, B5 7AA, 0121 622 6782 HAIR 305 305 Brompton Road, London, SW3 2DY, 020 7118 1277 HYPE COIFFURE 186 Lavender Hill, Battersea, London, SW11 5TQ, 020 7223 3800 JUNIOR GREEN LONDON 55 Kensington Church Street, London, W8 4BA, 020 7752 0620 LATHANIEL’S COUTURE 196 Coldharbour Lane, London, SE5 9QH, 020 3601 0683 MIMI ET MINA 16 Needham Road, London, W11 2RP, 020 7727 9356 MY HAIR BAR 22 Warren Street, London, W1T 5LU, 020 7380 0188 NEW YORK HAIR DESIGN 2 Langham Parade, London, N15 3ND, 020 8888 3397 NICKY OLIVER HAIRDRESSING 32 Oldham Street, Manchester, M1 1JN, 0161 241 0380 PECKHAM PALMS Peckham Palm Arcade, Unit 1-14 Bournemouth Close, Peckham Rye, London, SE15 4PB, 020 7062 2000 PURELY NATURAL 119 The Grove, London, E15 1EN, 020 8221 0122 RCNQ 10 Hilton Steet, Manchester M1 1JF; 0161 222 0200 SIMPLY GORGEOUS 79 Kingsgate Road, Kilburn, London, NW6 4JY, 020 7625 4500 THE CURL BAR 210 Middle Lane, Hornsey, London, N8 7LA, 020 3667 7204 THE HAIR SANCTUARY 166 Cross Street, Sale, Manchester M33 7AQ; 0161 536 1249 THINK PRETTY 301 High Road Leytonstone, London, E11 4HH, 020 7232 5168
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