Spell Magazine July 2021 by Spell Magazine

07 2021

H A I R

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B E A U T Y

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L I F E S T Y L E

Jourdan Riane Finding self-love & being a whole vibe

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10 The bigger picture

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Contents 04 S coop Breaking beauty news and the latest hair happenings 06 H ow to deal with fairy knots We enlist the experts to help with this pesky hair problem 08 T rue colours Bright hair is having a major moment 10 T he bigger picture Jourdan Riane gives us the full insight into life after Love Island

04 Scoop

14 Cool headed Six of the best hair masks for troubled scalps and dry tresses 16 C reative corner The appreciation page for emerging talent in the creative industry 18 W ho, what, wear The influencers setting the trends

06 How to deal with fairy knots

20 T he C word Get clued up on ceramides – your skin’s new BFF 22 S pell loves Feed your inner product junkie 24 T rip to the motherland Sue Omar shares her emotional experience visiting Somaliland 26 B ulletin The latest offers from spellbeauty.com 18 Who, what, wear

More pages Cover of Jourdan Riane

08 Trip to the motherland

EDITOR Jemima Cousins SUB EDITORS Gemma Rusiecki, Julie Vuong WRITERS Jennifer Meredith, Keysha Davis, Erica Matthews, Sue Omar DESIGNER Marzena Wilk

FIND US ONLINE @spellmagazine E: editorial@spellmagazine.com

COVER OF JOURDAN RIANE FULL CREDITS INSIDE BACK COVER

© 2021 Feme Ltd. Reproduction of the contents of Spell Magazine in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are the author’s own, and may not reflect the views and opinions of Feme Ltd.

P O SCO ry goss! all the indust Bulletin with

"THE ITEMS PEOPLE PUT INTO THEIR WARDROBE SHOULD LAST"

New season collection. Misty shirt, $119

Interview

Fast fashion vs. slow fashion and the joys of dressing for comfort

BEHIND THE BRAND

SHAHINI FAKHOURIE With a streetwear label all about sustainability, designer Shahini Fakhourie shares her views on fast fashion and the rewards of upcycling old clothes. Read the full interview at spellmagazine.com

The current style for Shahini Fakhourie is very minimalist. I approach design as if I am telling a story because it’s an effective way of communicating to the world who you are. Due to the pandemic, streetwear has moved off the streets and into the homes, so comfort is something I think about constantly just as a principle. After all, how can one feel good if they do not feel comfortable? I’ve thought about fabrics for this moment in a different way, but just as in fashion, this moment is temporary and can only affect design so much. There's a lack of women-led, high-end streetwear brands. My foundation in design comes from my grandmother but I developed my skills through fashion school. SPELL

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I did an internship in New York and freelanced for Tommy Hilfiger working in the accessory design department. For a short while I was an events writer for Haute Living Magazine and 944 Magazine which inspired me a lot and opened my eyes to the fashion industry. I see my work as I see my own personal past. Everything I’ve done has brought me to this moment in life and in work. I’d say each thing I do, I strive for it to be better than the last, to always grow and apply more knowledge and skill. I just couldn’t say which I’m most proud of, I love it all. As a sustainable designer, fast fashion seems a by-product of human consumption and everything that is tangled up in that. For me, the worst thing

about fast fashion is the throw-away quality of it. I believe the items people put into their wardrobe should last. And when the item no longer serves the wearer, it should be able to serve someone else. Not sit in a landfill. One thing that attracts consumers to fast fashion is its affordability, so with Shahini Fakhourie being a slow fashion label, I don’t let price dictate the design. All the materials I work with come from a zerowaste factory. One of the reasons I don’t think brands are using this method is down to patterns. They have to be positioned and cut in such a way that maximises the fabric usage. I take all the fabric that is not used and repurpose it which isn’t common practice in today's world. Let's hope that changes.

Beauty

ADUT AKECH BECOMES ESTÉE LAUDER’S GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR

News

This month one of fashion’s brightest stars Adut Akech will be appearing in Estée Lauder’s make-up and skincare campaigns across the globe. For the 21 year-old model this is a dream come true: “Estée Lauder has such an amazing heritage, and the story of Mrs Estée Lauder continues to be an inspiration to women around the world. Like her, I hope to inspire girls everywhere to never give up following their dreams.”

GOOGLE FUNDS 30 INNOVATIVE BLACK-LED STARTUPS With up to 800 applications received, Google Startups has awarded 30 black founded tech businesses £1.5million in funding. Amongst the names is the UK plant company Horticure. The scheme which runs across Europe aims to address the lack of funding for new entrepreneurs and transform a diverse range of industries including healthcare, gaming, food, education and fitness.

ONE TO WATCH

Deborah Choi, founder of Horticure

Bad Hair follows the ambitious Elle Lorraine who gets a weave in order to succeed in the image-conscious world of music television, however it all goes wrong when her hair turns into a cold killer. You gotta laugh! DVD out now.

Save vs Splurge

Fashion

PRIMARK PERIOD PANTS GET A THUMBS UP

THE BODY SHOP Himalayan Charcoal Purifying Glow Mask, £6

Period pants are a hot topic, and leading the way as a budget-friendly, sustainable buy is Primarks latest offering of reusable briefs. Leak-proof with a built-in pad, the anti-odour knickers are lauded for being comfy and practical. Price from £6.

ORIGINS Clear Improvement Moisturiser with Bamboo Charcoal, £16 SPELL

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HOW TO DEAL WITH WE ASK THE PROS

fairy knots

In the words of Pattern Beauty founder Tracee Ellis Ross, most curly girls suffer from “hair entanglement.” So to tackle the issue once and for all, we ask the pros for their top tips on how to prevent and treat those pesky tangles that can make and (quite literally) break our style.

HOW CAN YOU PREVENT THEM? These fairy knots, technically known as trichonodosis, can cause a great deal of concern for those with curly hair. Everyday styling becomes more difficult and hair health is harder to maintain. Before reaching for hte scissors, there are several ways to prevent their occurrence, so we ask the experts for the best DIY methods ... SPELL

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Crème of Nature Anti-breakage Leave-in, £6.49 SoulCap Hair Towel, £24.99

FAIRY KNOTS IN CURLY HAIR Fairy knots tend to occur in curly to kinky hair textures due to the hair follicles being oval like in shape. This encourages tangles with single strands of hair as during growth it the twists, turns and loops to form the curl pattern. This causes hair to tie around other hair strands, which then

forms tangles and the knots. Another contributing factor is that we all shed hair daily, (typically, 50-100 strands a day). So when our strands fall out, they tend to lock up with each other. This happens even more when the cuticles on the strands of our hair are raised.

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to detangle. Why are they called fairy knots? Because they suddenly appear without warning - as if by some magical mystery. So if you’re suffering with these tangled beads that are clinging to your hair shaft and you want to get rid, you need to know why they are appearing in the first place.

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Hair by Hype Coiffure

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WHAT CAUSES FAIRY KNOTS? Single strand knots, AKA fairy knots, are tiny stubborn tangles formed in single strands of hair. Commonly found in curly, coily and kinky hair types, they are often perceived to be a bigger pain than traditional knots and tangles: fairy knots appear to be near impossible

KNOT TO MESS WITH Regardless of texture or style, there’s one thing most of us want: hair that looks like it’s been through the hands of a salon professional every week. But if that isn’t an option, we’ve got some great tips for creating the salon look at home. From celebrity stylists to haircare founders, here our leading ‘hurr’ industry experts reveal their golden rules for tackling the delicate knots.

KEEP YOUR STRANDS HYDRATED “Thirsty curls can be an invitation to fairy knots. If you have low or high porosity hair, moisture can be an issue. Hydrating mists can solve this problem. Packed with varying combinations of herbs, minerals and natural oils, these mists will quench your dry curls. The water, herbs and minerals will penetrate the hair shaft, providing nutrients and hydration, while the oil will seal in the moisture.” Andria Asare, Think Pretty salon owner

GO FOR REGULAR TRIMS “If you want to get rid of split ends and damaged hair, then regular trims will help reduce the occurrence of fairy knots. The wear and tear that comes with everyday styling can not only hurt your ends, but damage can travel up the hair shaft too, causing splits and tangles on the way. Dry hair is an invitation for knots, so don’t forget those trims every six to eight weeks because your hair will thank you in the long-run.” Lorraine Dublin, celebrity hairdresser

DETANGLE YOUR HAIR PROPERLY “Brush out your hair before you shampoo. It’s important to detangle before you fully immerse your curls under water. Knots tend to tighten in water, making them more difficult to unravel. Hair should be divided into sections so you can work through and identify the knots. Detangle using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb along with a pre-poo, which will give slip to release the stubborn knots.” Myriam Kone, Mimi et Mina salon owner

DEEP CONDITION “Conditioner is a critical part of your haircare routine. Not only does this hair staple provide your strands with extra nourishment and moisture, but it also works to improve your hair’s strength to reduce excess friction and tangling. Deep conditioners help to improve elasticity, which will lessen the occurrence of knots. Using products that contain natural oils will keep the hair lubricated, defining curls and making them pop.” Michelle Sultan, Imbue creative director

PROTECT YOUR HAIR AT NIGHT “If you haven’t slept on a silk pillowcase or protected your hair with a silk or satin bonnet, there’s a chance your curls are experiencing friction during the night. This can leave it feeling dry and tangled with knots. Satin and silk help to retain the hair’s moisture and also reduces friction. So if you’re getting fairy knots and aren’t covering your hair at night, make the change now to see a difference.” Paula Francis, founder of SuperfoodLx

PROTECT YOUR ENDS “You can use protective styling as a strategy to tuck your ends away and avoid fairy knots. Braids and canerows are just some of the styles you can wear. Avoid plaiting all the way to the ends as this weakens the tips. Normal friction caused by hair being in contact with shirts and jackets can result in these knots appearing. So if you know you’re wearing your hair down, go the extra mile by wearing a silk or satin top.” Vernon Francois, Redken global consultant

PRAYING HANDS METHOD “When applying shampoo and styling products, massage them into the hair with your fingertips then smooth down the lengths. This is also known as the “praying hands” method, where you sandwich your hair between your hands. I’ve found that this technique helps make my hair more manageable during washing or styling. It also keeps my hair tangle-free for longer without manipulation.” Shannon Fitzsimmons, founder of O So Curly

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@theestallion

@jstayready_

TRENDS 2021

@iamcardib

TRUE COLOURS

@winnieharlow

@nyane

@blvcmya

BLEACH LONDON, Super Cool Colour in Rose Gold, £6.50

@mpholebajoa

Brighter days call for brighter hair. And while we might not be making the festival rounds this summer, we can still bring the party with our tresses. From pastel tips to full-on rainbow hues, it’s time to get colourful!

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Made from the finest 100% human hair fibres for a realistic touch

THE

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FABULOUS ‘FRO SUPERCHARGE YOUR

Hair: Outre Big Beautiful Hair Clip-in, from £20.49 using Cantu Fashion: Dumebi Daydream Babydoll Blue Dress, £600 Accessories: Tiana Jewel Guardian Angel Pink Agate Gemstone Ring Gold, £78

THE BIGGER PICTURE Jourdan Riane spills the beans on her top beauty secrets, why she’d never have an OnlyFans account, and life after Love Island

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Walking into the Love Island villa back in 2019 seems like a lifetime away for 26 year-old Jourdan Riane. “I’m grateful for the experience but I’ve come along way,” she says with a dimple perfect smile. She might not have found love on the island, but she’s definitely found success. In true influencer style she’s landed a slew of mega brand deals. The most recent is a deal with Cantu: “I genuinely use their products on my hair. There’s too many to mention.” (Don’t worry, we nail it down later in the conversation). As a former model appearing in Vogue Italia and Elle, Jourdan isn’t a new player to the politics of fame. She’s managed to stay grounded and humble – “Thanks to my mum” – and survived bouts of depression after appearing in the whirlwind reality show simply because of her strong network. ”My family and best friend pulled me through. It’s important to have the right energy around you to shield you from the negativity.” Today, Jourdan uses her platform to express her natural creativity (have you seen her epic fashion reels?), as well as guide young women on the complexities to womanhood. “I have a YouTube channel that is just about educating young girls on topics they aren’t necessarily taught by their mums.” With so much on her radar and much more on the horizon, we were super excited to get Jourdan on set to play dress up and just vibe.

standard, I just didn’t want to be known as the girl with one look. It’s showing the world, ‘hey guess what, I can wear my hair long today and short tomorrow.’ Getting the opportunity to shoot a massive afro and wearing curls again reminds me how this OG style never goes out of fashion. There’s something liberating about wearing your hair big, full and free. YOU SWITCH UP YOUR HAIR A LOT. WHAT’S YOUR MUST-DO FOR KEEPING YOUR NATURAL HAIR HEALTHY?

For keeping your natural hair healthy overnight conditioning is a must. Whether it’s braided, weaved or straightened, I do this without fail every three weeks. I’m convinced this has saved the hair on my head. Sometimes I do DIY treatments like using the protein from eggs and wrapping my

hair in clingfilm so it soaks in. Another must-do of mine is leaving my hair out for a minimum of four days to let it breathe before restyling. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE DECADE FOR FASHION?

Definitely the late nineties and early noughties – they’re so timeless. You had singers like Aaliyah, TLC and Missy Elliott who could bridge natural feminine beauty with a masculine energy, yet somehow still be seductive with it – I really like that. WHAT’S YOUR TAKE ON INSTAGRAM AND SNAPCHAT FILTERS?

I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t fan but I champion the natural look more. It’s important not to become reliant on them because if you find you’re unhappy with how you look without a

WE’RE THRILLED TO HAVE YOU ON THE FRONT OF THIS MONTH’S ISSUE. HOW DOES IT FEEL TO LAND YOUR FIRST FRONT COVER?

I’m so excited I almost can’t put it into words. I’ve been modelling since the age of seven and always dreamed of being on a magazine cover or huge billboard, so it feels good that the hard work has finally paid off. Plus, working with a team of dope black creatives made it even more special.

“SURROUND YOURSELF WITH PEOPLE WHO REMIND YOU THAT YOU’RE A WHOLE VIBE”

YOU’RE WEARING THE NEW BIG BEAUTIFUL HAIR CLIP-INS, WHICH HAVE A NATURAL CURL PATTERN. IS THERE A TEXTURE YOU PREFER?

OMG I change my hair all the time so it’s really hard to narrow it down to one. I’ve come to appreciate the beauty of tightly coiled curls because modelling has had me bleaching and cutting my hair so many times. And it’s not because I had to conform to a beauty SPELL

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filter, that’s where the problem kicks in. Surround yourself with people who remind you that you’re a whole vibe. Practice posting things without editing or using filters as well. This helped me when I started taking morning selfies with absolutely no make-up on. I had to learn how to embrace my face with a little blemish here and there. WHAT DOES YOUR USUAL MORNING AND NIGHT-TIME SKINCARE ROUTINE ENTAIL?

Depending what I’ve done the night before, I like to double cleanse in the morning. I either do a scrub or a deep cleanse. I’ve replaced my moisturiser with a serum to control my oil levels and I always wear an SPF without fail, especially on days when I don’t wear make-up.

YOU’RE AN ADVOCATE FOR VAGINA STEAMING - WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT IT?

I’m so big on women’s health and I’m passionate about educating young girls on women-related issues they might not have been necessarily taught in schools or told by their mums. With vagina steaming, I know it’s not for everyone. I would never tell people to do it as it’s something everyone needs to check to see if they’re able to. But it works for me and I like the idea of getting rid of toxins. ONLYFANS IS BECOMING A HUGE INDUSTRY AMONG INFLUENCERS. WHAT’S YOUR OPINION ON IT AND WOULD YOU EVER TRY IT?

I wouldn’t do it. But it’s not because there’s anything wrong with it - I

Fashion: April & Alex Puff Croptop, £225

applaud the fact people have found alternative ways to feel comfortable using their bodies. What I don’t like is the minority has ruined it for the majority. Because you can post whatever you want and there’s no restrictions, people automatically assume OnlyFans is for sexual content even if it’s not the case. My branding comes first and because the stigma attached to it so bad, I won’t go there. HOW DID YOU HANDLE BEING THRUST INTO THE LIMELIGHT FOLLOWING LOVE ISLAND?

I hated it. I fell into a deep depression and I was in the worst mental space I’ve ever been in my life. It was a very dark space. I’m grateful for the opportunity, but if I had to do it again I wouldn’t for the sake of my mental health. Yes they offer counselling but it wasn’t mandatory. So what ends up happening is you tell yourself you’re OK when actually you’re not. HOW DO YOU THINK LOVE ISLAND COULD HELP ITS CONTESTANTS’ MENTAL WELLBEING?

In reality the problem isn’t the lack of support from ITV, it’s the way the public treats you. The reason contestants have unfortunately taken their lives is never just because of Love Island - it’s how they’re treated afterwards away from the cameras. The editing alters people’s true personality and the viewing public believe what they see. If it was live some of the characters that come off as the ‘baddies’ might be seen differently if viewers saw everything. The editing heightens the negativity and persuades the audience to hate them, which is why the two go hand-in-hand. HOW DID YOU GET INTO A BETTER HEAD SPACE?

It took time but I’ve adopted a carefree attitude by detaching myself emotionally from what people think of me – especially those I don’t know. Having my family and best friend around helped a lot. There were times they would run my social media account so I could take an emotional break and recharge. I can’t stress the importance of having your loved ones around you enough, because in reality having a super-large following can be very lonely for some. Follow @JourdanRiane SPELL

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“IT TOOK TIME BUT I’VE ADOPTED A CARE-FREE ATTITUDE”

SPEED DATE

Q&A

Jourdan shares her true loves when it comes to her hair and skin

Who was childhood crush? Johnny Depp

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CANTU Avocado Hydrating Shampoo, £6.99

What app do you use the most? Instagram What is your hidden talent? I speak fluent back slang What’s your most used emoji? Heart eyes What’s the longest time you’ve spent getting ready? Hmm, maybe an hour and a half? How old were you when you got your first weave? 19 What’s on your bucket list? Sky diving

REN Clean Screen Mineral SPF 30, £32 SPELL

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COOL HEADED

Keep calm and use a hair mask to ease troubled scalps and ravenous dry, damaged hair

Photo by Why J Miller

5 6

1. ASIAM Jamaican Black Castor Oil Moisturising Masque, £11.99 • 2. Aveda Botanical Repair Intensive Strengthening Masque Rich, £45 • 3. Monat Scalp Purifying Scrub, £48 • 4. Schwarzkopf Fibre Clinix Tame Treatment, £25 • 5. Mielle Rice Water Clay Masque, £13.99 • 6. Umberto Giannini Grow Scrub Scalp Scrub, £9.25 SPELL

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CREATIVE CORNER A stop-in-awe moment to celebrate creatives raising the bar and shape-shifting the aesthetics of an entire culture. #SpellSalutes

“I’m inspired by nature’s textures, patterns and colours for my in-house fashion prints. Some of my garments silhouettes take inspiration from traditional West African clothing, like my silk ruffle wrapper skirt, tunic dress and boubou to name a few. I design for the modern woman, so you’ll find a headwrap teamed with a bomber and drawstring skirt. The #YemziGirl is trend conscious but has a strong sense of individuality and wears what she feels confident and comfortable in.” Elizabeth-Yemi Akingbade, fashion designer (@yemzi)

Photographer @zek.snaps Art Direction & Styling @thisisyem Hair @lolosbeads Makeup @carrissglam Model @gelmiramanico_ SPELL

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Set your own trends What’s new, exclusive and iconic. Discover our curated digital hair and beauty boutique today.

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The Feme Collection Afro Puff HH The Feme Collection V

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Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Liquid Soap

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Urban Twist Passion Twist

WHO, WHAT, WEAR The best influencers to follow for beauty tips and sartorial inspiration WHO: @thebrand_beline

WHO: @biancaffoley What: Nobody serves glow goals like Brittany Jones. She is the perfect source for dewy skincare routines, softly-does-it glam inspo, and highlight skills that would have the likes of Kim K applauding. She recently annouced the launch of her own cosmetic line called ‘July St Claire’ which will encompass kits to achieve her most stunning of looks. Sis, we’re ready for you to take our coins! Wear: The secret to a dewy complexion lies all in the prep and finish. Prime the skin with a tinted hydrating moisturiser and buff in a creamy bronzer to set it off.

What: Get ready for the sustainable influencer takeover. Leading the way is conscious queen Bianca Foley. She encourages us to rewear our clothes and let go of the ‘buy it and wear once’ mentality by embracing the more conscious alternative of renting. You can find some of her statement wardrobe pieces for rental on shopping site Hurr Collective. Wear: As mentioned above, try giving some of your wishlist designer pieces a test-run by renting them first, or for more tips to go green, listen to Foley’s podcast Sustainably Influenced on Spotify.

NARS Pure Radiance Tinted Moisturiser, £31

FEME BUN Baby Ballet, £6.49

MARÉNA BEAUTÉ Tarou Bronzer, £28.80

PRIMARK Blazer, £20 Trousers, £13

FEME WIG Angled Bob, £19.99 SPELL

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CREW Women’s Cateye Sunglasses Tortoiseshell Angle, £55

STYLE NOTES: If you see something you

like, remember to save it or take a screenshot so you can build a moodboard to refer to later on WHO: @keishadesvignes

WHO: @_queenmojo What: Need to get your mojo back? Cast your eye on Queen Mojo. Her community project ‘Do It For The Dopamine’ encourages women to look after their mental and physical health by connecting with others and cycling together in London. Plus, her side-splitting comedy reels always lifts the mood so are well worth the watch. Wear: Queen Mojo’s wardrobe is anything but dull. Fast-track your way to summer brights with a vibrant co-ord set. Take the look to new style heights with statement accessories or hair.

What: Make-up artist by day and beauty influencer by night, Keisha F Henry is fearless when it comes to using colour. Her feed is full of moodboard-worthy editorial inspo and is a shopping guide for all the best products that will pack a pigment punch. Her recommendations are always pricefriendly too as she’s saving for her dream boho wedding. Wear: Recreate some of her iconic looks by drawing a simple coloured wing liner or go bold with some abstract shapes along your eye socket. Remember, practice makes perfect.

BYBI Face Base Everyday Moisturiser, £20

SUVA BEAUTY UV Brights Palette, £23

PRETTY LITTLE THING Co-ord set: Top, £12 Skirt, £15

BARRY M Hi Vis Nail Paint, £4.95

ELEGANT TOUCH Holographic Silver Nails, £5.95 WAHL Root Styler, £29.99 SPELL

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Scream Pretty

the

C word

When it comes to our skin, we all want the same thing: a smooth, plump and glowing complexion. But drinking plenty of water and religiously applying moisturiser sometimes isn’t enough – you also need know which beauty ingredients will help your skin reach its optimum condition. One key ingredient that often falls under the radar is ceramides. Despite forming the very building blocks of our

Get clued up on this lesser-known skincare ingredient – ceramides

skin, even the skincare buffs among us probably know more about retinol, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid. But ceramide-rich products are especially noteworthy for anyone suffering with dryness and dehydration, fine lines, irritation, skin damage, chronic dullness, sensitivity and pigmentation. Essentially, they can work wonders for anyone who feels their skin is distressed or lacking in nourishment. So, what exactly are ceramides and SPELL

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how can they be integrated into your routine? According to Dr Yalda Jamali, founder of the Dr Yalda Clinic (instagram.com/dr.yalda), they are natural essential fats normally found in the epidermis, which is the top layer of the skin. “The easiest way to explain what they do is to imagine that your skin cells are bricks and ceramides are the cement that holds everything together,” she says.

The main function of ceramides is to keep the skin healthy. But as we inevitably age and subject our skin to constant UV and pollution exposure, our natural ceramide levels begin to decline. This natural process then weakens our skin’s barrier leading to dry, itchy and irritated skin, which in turn worsens the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Reaching for products containing ceramides will help seal in essential moisture and protect against transepidermal water loss, thus improving your skin’s overall health. Results include a softer and more hydrated complexion with fewer irritations, lines and breakouts. “Adding products that contain ceramides into your daily regime can help hugely if you suffer from redness, irritation, dehydrated or visibly aged skin,” says Dr Jamali. There’s a variety of ceramide-rich products on the market, including moisturisers, serums, toners, face

washes and SPFs. They’re even present in some hand and bodycare products, which can be great for cracked over-washed hands (thanks pandemic) and eczema sufferers. “If you haven’t used a ceramide product before, you could start with a facial cleanser and see how your skin reacts,” recommends Dr Jamali. “Another great way of introducing it into your skincare regime is by getting a moisturiser that contains ceramides. It’s a gentle and non-irritating ingredient so you can’t really go wrong.”

which are also beneficial for the skin: “These aren’t necessarily ceramides, but they can start a positive feedback loop of encouraging your own skin to create ceramides,” Dr Jamali adds.

There are several types of ceramides used in skincare products and most of the formulas you can buy contain a selection. “Always look at the back of the bottle to check that they’re included,” says Dr Jamali. “Ceramides should be on the ingredients list and may be labelled with two or three additional letters (such as ceramide AP, ceramide EOP or ceramide NP).” You may also find phytosphingosine and sphingosine on the ingredients list,

Ceramides work especially well as a final step in your routine (just before sunscreen if you’re using them during the day) or applied after a shower to really lock in moisture. Plus, unlike some ingredients such as retinol and other potent acids, they are suitable for all skin types. So, if one of your summer goals is to achieve a strong and healthy complexion, ceramides could help elevate your skin to its best condition yet.

Experts say ceramides can be used at any age and will benefit young and mature skin alike. “But of course, they will make more of a visible and palpable difference in individuals who have a reduction in ceramide levels, which can happen as soon as our early 30s,” says Dr Jamali.

CERAMIDE-RICH SAVIOURS BEST FOR... Target specific concerns with these tailor-made buys Moisture

Brightening

PIXI Rose Ceramide Cream, £24

BYONIK Supreme Seal, £56

Eczema BIODERMA Atoderm Intensive Baume UltraSoothing Balm, £14.50

Cleansing

Mature skin

GYM FOR YOUR SKIN Warm-up Cleanser, £27

KATE SOMERVILLE DeliKate Recovery Cream, £69

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Destressed CERAVE Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum, £17

spell loves Valentino

FEED YOUR INNER PRODUCT JUNKIE From barely-there make-up to no hassle sustainable refills, here are the launches we’re lusting after this month

TOTALLY MADE UP

Want the no make-up look? Here are our top draws: Givenchy Prisme Libre Skin-Caring Glow is one of the lightest foundations out now with an easyto-follow online shade match; Valentino’s Cushion Compact Highlighter gives a standout performance and makes a worthy investment, and last but least, Bobbi Brown’s Instant Full Cover Concealer does exactly what it says on the tin.

Givenchy Prisme Libre Skin-Caring Glow Foundation, £40

Valentino Wear Cushion Compact Highlighter, £64

Bobbi Brown Instant Full Cover Concealer, £24

INSTA LOVE

Pics & captions we’ve liked on the ‘gram this month

@afrostylemagz Caption: C O O L W O R K S [swipe] By GHANAIAN artist Baba Musa Swallah...Love it!!

@aishacarrington Caption: QMaintaining and having boundaries around your inner peace is vital. Inner peace keeps anxieties, fears and worries away.

SPELL

@xtraxa Caption: Oh wow

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@gap Caption: YEEZY SZN APPROACHING

GET YOUR FILL

MARC JACOBS Brow Wow Duo, £24

In a bid to become more sustainable, brands are taking up the refill concept. The Body Shop will rollout refill stations across 400 stores where you can use the refillable aluminium bottle to top up on your bestloved shampoo and conditioners, hand washes and shower gels. As an early adopter of recyclable shampoo pouches, Hairstory’s refill club is full of money-saving perks. Make-up products are in on the act too – our frontrunners: Marc Jacobs and Paul & Joe.

THE BODY SHOP Refillable Aluminium Bottle, free

Aissata

HAIRSTORY New Wash Rich, £44

PAUL & JOE Lipstick Refill, £14

GO FIGURE

Using the female form, Anissa Kermiche reinvents everyday objects to become artlike, and well, that bit more interesting. She designed “Love Handles” (pictured below) after not finding anything similar in the interiors market. This led to friends and buyers making personal orders. Love Handles Vase Black Matte, £340.

COUNTING THE DAYS

As we patiently wait for the drop of Aissata Ibrahima AW21 collection titled To Our Friends, the London-based designer has given a teaser of what to expect. Breaking down the traditional boundaries in gendered apparel, the fluid mix of his-and-her tailoring suitable for all – we love it.

SPELL

MAGAZINE

TRIP TO THE MOTHERLAND

Photo by Rax Arn

Beauty writer Sue Omar opens up about her first trip to her home country of Somaliland

MY SOMALI HERITAGE & HOME TOWN Although I was born and bred in London, both of my parents grew up in East Africa’s Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland. Throughout my childhood I heard such rich and colourful stories about my parents’ hometown that were bought to life with nostalgic photographs before the civil war broke out in Somaliland in the 1960s. Shortly after the war, Somaliland gained its independence and was colonised by the British, separating itself from the Northern part of the country more commonly known as Somalia. While Somaliland has been operating as an independent state for over 40 years, the rest of the world is yet to internationally recognise it as a separate sovereign state. Hargeisa is a thriving metropolitan city booming with businesses and a plethora of entertainment and hospitality

There’s no doubt that 2020 will go down in history as the year that changed everything. For many of us, the pandemic had a major impact on the way we live, how we interact with one another and our plans for the foreseeable future. Last March, Boris Johnson announced a nationwide lockdown in the UK to reduce the spread and risk of COVID-19. A few months later Black Lives Matter protestors took to the streets - ignited by the death of George Floyd in the US - to fight against police brutality and racial inequality. In the midst of the chaos and conversations on black identity, I suddenly developed a deep desire to explore my African heritage and visit the motherland for the first time. As a freelance writer, I am fortunate enough to work from anywhere in the world. So in the spirit of spontaneity, I booked a one-way ticket to my home country Somaliland, located in the Horn of Africa.

venues, which are only a short drive away from the stunning natural landscapes in Somaliland’s remote countryside.

THE JOURNEY TO AFRICA From Heathrow Airport in London, the journey to Somaliland was approximately 15 hours including a transit in Addis Ababa in Ethiopia. As I stepped off the plane in Somaliland, I was greeted by so many family members – some of which I’d never met before. I instantly felt a sense of belonging and was overwhelmed with so many emotions. I couldn’t quite SPELL

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believe that after 30 years of living in London, I was finally home in Africa. From this moment on I was super excited to embark on this journey of self-discovery and learn more about my culture and heritage. CONNECTING WITH MY SOMALI HERITAGE & BLACK IDENTITY Somaliland is one of those rare places in the world where the majority of its population is made up of its own people entirely. And while you may come across a few expats or foreigners here for work purposes, Somaliland is truly the land of the Somali people. Living in the UK as a Black-British Somali woman, I’ve experienced racism and discrimination in so many ways, so being back home in Africa gave me a sense of belonging that I have never felt before. On arrival, I did experience a bit of a culture shock as things are so much less developed in Africa as they are in the West. However, as time

went on, I started to find beauty in the simplicity of life in Somaliland. One of the things I admire the most about the Somalis living in Somaliland is their contentment with life and kindness; the majority of people just seem to radiate happiness. Even if they have little, they practice gratitude daily. They are also very engaged with real life and conversations and aren’t really as obsessed with social media as we are in the west. The more time I spent talking to locals in my mother tongue, the more I improved my connection with my culture and learning the language, which is something I will never take for granted.

cotton or silk fabrics, and worn with a slip underneath and matching shawl. Diracs are a go-to outfit for special occasions such as weddings, events or Friday lunch with family to celebrate the Islamic holy day of the week. Below is one of my favourite looks…

EMBRACING MODEST FASHION & WEARING HIJAB Somaliland is one of the few countries in the world with a 99.9 per cent Muslim population, so one of the first things that I had to adjust to on this trip was wearing modest clothing and observing the hijab. Like other African cultures, Somali fashion and fabrics are bright and bold featuring pretty prints and floral designs. As someone that doesn’t usually wear the hijab on a daily basis, experimenting with modest fashion and dressing in traditional clothing has been one of the highlights of my trip. Some style staples that I packed for this trip included hijabs in a multitude of colours and abayas – a loose fitting cloak to wear over clothes – and lots of long maxi dresses to pair with light jackets or coverups. The traditional Somali dress is known as a dirac, which is a made of

Sue wearing a abaya

THE FOOD & NIGHTLIFE I was based in Somaliland’s capital city of Hargeisa for the most part of my trip. It’s probably the busiest and most vibrant city in the country when it comes to evening entertainment and places to hang out and eat. Traditional live events are showcased on a regular basis in Hargeisa, which involves live music, dancing and sometimes even comedy segments. When it comes to eating, Somali food can be found on every street corner as well as other

types of cuisine from across the world – from Indian and Chinese to Thai and western fast food. THE HISTORY LANDMARKS: VISITING THE ICONIC LAAS GEEL CAVES One of the most iconic historical landmarks in Somaliland is Laas Geel, a remarkable site of natural caves featuring ancient drawings and engravings that date back beyond 18,000 B.C. I had the opportunity to travel to Laas Geel and see these drawings for myself, which was an absolutely unforgettable experience. We hiked up a mountain to get to the ancient caves at Laas Geel and the view of Somaliland at the top was absolutely breathtaking. For every sketch, our tour guide had a story to tell about humanity and the history of the people here in Somaliland. This location is most definitely one to visit if you ever get the chance. VLOGGING MY TRIP The portrayal of African countries in the media is usually negative as we are constantly bombarded with images of starving children and poverty. Reconnecting with your roots and visiting your home country can completely change your perception. That’s why it was really important for me to capture the beauty of my home country, culture and share my experience on my YouTube channel. To watch Sue’s Somaliland Vlogs head to youtube.com/sueomar

brands TO BOOKMARK

Modest fashion has become a global movement and the category’s growth has given rise to dedicated design labels. We pick out some of our faves

THE MODEST ONLINE themodestonline.com

MODANISA modanisa.com

HAUTE HIJAB hautehijab.com SPELL

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INAYAH inayah.com

The

SPELL-OMETER What’s hot and what’s not in the world of Spell

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THROWING SHADE

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Try the ombré look without any commitment using X-Pression’s new Ultra Braid Pre-Stretched threetone combinations. Style out your canerows, box braids and more with a bold new hue fit for carnival, festivals or everyday wear. The new shades come in seven palettes including romantic Cherry Blossom and sumptuous Honey Cream. Price £4.25 per pack.

MONO MAKE-UP Inspired by the monobrow, the uniliner trend could take some getting used to. @nelliethesausagepup

FEATHERED FRIEND Channel the female icons of the ‘70s with feathering and fringes.

CHASING THE SUN When you’re working from home but want to make the most of the good weather. @christinamilian

@thequeenofthegarden

THE SKIN YOU’RE IN We’re loving the normalisation of psoriasis and other skin conditions by our fave Insta accounts.

PONYTAIL POISE Sairah Pinnock was spotted wearing The Feme Collection Ponytail Frisky on her socials. The look was styled by celeb hairstylist Dionne Smith, who used the versatile 24” ponytail before finishing the look with a line of gold clips along the crown. Ideal for sleek up-dos like Sairah’s, Frisky boasts a wraparound feature for a seamless application. Available now for £18.99.

TURN UP THE VOLUME - LOUD

BAD ROMANCE Christina Milian continues her rom-com phase with Resort to Love - and we’re here for it!

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MIND MATTERS Naomi Osaka opens up the conversation about mental health in women’s sport.

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SH O P DU CTS TH E PR O FE AT U RE D

IN TH IS ’S M O N TH IS SU E

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E X T R AS

AISSATA IBRAHIMA aissataibrahima.com ANISSA KERMICHE amara.com CREW crewclothing.co.uk BAD HAIR badhair.film PRIMARK primark.com SHAHINI FAKHOURIE shahinifakhourie.com COVER CREDITS Photography Femelle Studios Retoucher Monica Chamorro Hair Dionne Smith Make-up Joy Adenuga Styling Denise Brown

WHERE TO FIND SPELL SALONS

AFROTHERAPY 235 Fore Street, London, N18 2TZ, 020 8345 5621 APRIL HAIR SALON 5 Bull Street, Burnley, BB11 1DW, 01282 839 726 CHOP CHOP LONDON 60 Charlotte Rd, London EC2A 3QT; 020 3488 1492 COBELLA 5 Kensington High Street, London, W8 5NP, 020 7118 1277 DKUK 191 Queen's Road, Peckham, London, SE15 2NG, 020 3609 0920 ELITE HAIR LOUNGE 24 Sidney Road, London, SW9 0TS, 020 7207 5904 GEORGE KOSIT HAIR 10-12 Bristol Street, Birmingham, B5 7AA, 0121 622 6782 HAIR 305 305 Brompton Road, London, SW3 2DY, 020 7118 1277 HYPE COIFFURE 186 Lavender Hill, Battersea, London, SW11 5TQ, 020 7223 3800 JUNIOR GREEN LONDON 55 Kensington Church Street, London, W8 4BA, 020 7752 0620 LATHANIEL’S COUTURE 196 Coldharbour Lane, London, SE5 9QH, 020 3601 0683 MIMI ET MINA 16 Needham Road, London, W11 2RP, 020 7727 9356 MY HAIR BAR 22 Warren Street, London, W1T 5LU, 020 7380 0188 NEW YORK HAIR DESIGN 2 Langham Parade, London, N15 3ND, 020 8888 3397 NICKY OLIVER HAIRDRESSING 32 Oldham Street, Manchester, M1 1JN, 0161 241 0380 PECKHAM PALMS Peckham Palm Arcade, Unit 1-14 Bournemouth Close, Peckham Rye, London, SE15 4PB, 020 7062 2000 PURELY NATURAL 119 The Grove, London, E15 1EN, 020 8221 0122 RCNQ 10 Hilton Steet, Manchester M1 1JF; 0161 222 0200 SIMPLY GORGEOUS 79 Kingsgate Road, Kilburn, London, NW6 4JY, 020 7625 4500 THE CURL BAR 210 Middle Lane, Hornsey, London, N8 7LA, 020 3667 7204 THE HAIR SANCTUARY 166 Cross Street, Sale, Manchester M33 7AQ; 0161 536 1249 THINK PRETTY 301 High Road Leytonstone, London, E11 4HH, 020 7232 5168

SHOPS

NORTH LONDON EDMONTON HAIR & COSMETICS LIMITED 257-159 Fore Street, Edmonton, N18 2TY, 0208 887 6158 HAIRITAGE 1 Queens Parade, Walm Lane NW2 5HT, 020 3417 4844 PAK’S HAIR BOUTIQUE 25 Stroud Green Road, Stroud Green, N4 3EF, 0207 263 2331 PAK’S HAIR & COSMETICS HARLESDEN 5 7 Craven Park Road, Harlesden, NW10, 8SH, 0208 963 1730 EAST LONDON BEAUTY QUEEN COSMETICSUnit 19, 70-73 The Mall, The Stratford Centre, Stratford, E15 1XQ, 0208 534 8786 JUDITH'S HAIR & BEAUTY Barking Rd, London E13 8HJ, 07949 818778 PAK COSMETICS 212 Heathway, Dagenham, Greater London RM10 9NS, 0208 592 9108 QUEENS COSMETICS 3 91 Green St, Upton Park, E13 9AU, 0208 471 1699 SUPERGROWS COSMETICS 2 4-25 Queens Market, Upton Park, E13 9BA, 0208 552 9886

YOUR HAIR & BEAUTY S tratford Centre, 20 Broadway, E15 4QS, 0208 555 0946 SOUTH LONDON PAK’S HAIR CENTRE 141 Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 4ST, 0207 732 2822 SABINA HAIR & COSMETICS 68-70 Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 5BY, 0207 469 7356 SABINA 6 9 Mitcham Road, Tooting Broadway, SW17 9PB, 0208 682 0055 SABINA 6B Greens End, Woolwich, SE18 6HX, 0208 855 5266 YOUR HAIR & BEAUTY 37 Lewis Grove, Lewisham, SE13 6BG, 0208 318 0999 NORTH WEST ENGLAND PAUL’S HAIR WORLD 53 Barbirolli Way, Arndale Centre, Manchester, M4 2HU, 0161 839 0708 PAUL’S HAIR WORLD 29-30 Oldham Street, Manchester, M1 1JG, 0161 834 6498 RAPUNZELS HAIR CITY 315 Smithdown Road, Liverpool, Merseyside, L15 0EB, 0151 733 4333 LIVERPOOL HAIR & COSMETICS 31 Dawson Way, St Johns Shopping Centre, Liverpool, Merseyside, L1 1LY, 0151 708 0699 YORKSHIRE & THE HUMBER CC HAIR & BEAUTY 256-258 Roundhay Road, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS8 5RL, 0113 249 5562 BRITS HAIR & BEAUTY 30 Kirkgate, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD1 1QL, 01274 733 287 PRISSY'S 6 Saint James Road, Halifax, West Yorkshire, HX1 1YS, 01422 345 482 CC HAIR & BEAUTY 119-129 Chapeltown Road, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS7 3DU, 0113 262 3728 TALKING HEADS 51-57 St Sepulchre Gate, Doncaster, DN1 1UB, 01302 328 720 CC HAIR & BEAUTY Unit 2 & 3 Leeming House, Vicar Lane, Leeds, LS1 6BY, 07709 836 498 WEST MIDLANDS TZ ENTERPRISES 40 Queen Street, Wolverhampton, West Midlands, WV1 3JW, 01902 574 920 EAST ANGLIA BEAUTY BY ZARA Grays, Essex, RM17 6QJ, 01375 376 050 SOUTH EAST ENGLAND MIA HAIR & BEAUTY 41 Mill Street Luton, LU1 2NA, 01582 727 878 ABV HAIR & BEAUTY STORE 79 Lowfield Street, Dartford, Kent, DA1, 01322 276 003 BISMI COSMETICS 7 Farthing Grove, Netherfield, Milton Keynes, MK6 4HH, 01908 393 144 MAADE HAIR & BEAUTY 4 Rhode Street, ME4 4AL, 01634924102 QUEEN MALAIKA 29 Kingston Road, Portsmouth, PO2 7DP, 02392862044 SCOTLAND ELEORA LTD 94 King Street, Aberdeen, AB24 5BA, 0122 446 7896 SINE HAIR & BEAUTY 196 Hope Street, Glasgow G2 2UG, 0141 237 4556 LUSH HAIR Unit 38-41 Inshop Paisley Centre, High St., Paisley, Glasgow, 0141 887 7025

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Spell Magazine July 2021

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