Spell Magazine March 2021 by Spell Magazine

03 2021

H A I R

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B E A U T Y

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L I F E S T Y L E

Curlture

The duo reshaping the natural hair scene

spellmagazine.com

Made from the finest 100% human hair fibres for a realistic touch

THE

POWER PUFF

FABULOUS ‘FRO SUPERCHARGE YOUR

14 #teamnatural

19 Secure the bag, sis

Contents 04 Scoop Breaking beauty news and the latest hair happenings 06 L et's talk hair glues Expert opinions, advice and not-sosticky solutions 08 B odylicious bobs It’s the cut of the moment: bobs with tons of body

06 Let's talk hair glues

10 T he rise of the man weave We talk to the experts in men’s replacement units 12 C url capsule wardrobe The ultimate hair product line-up for curly girls 14 # teamnatural Curlture on staying relevant and the politics of anti-influencers

16-17 Spell loves

16 S pell loves Feed your inner product junkie 19 S ecure the bag, sis Dorcas Magbadelo creates a must-beseen-with tote bag 20 W hat I’ve learnt from Pat McGrath Told by make-up artist Adeola Gboyega 22 B ulletin The latest news and offers from spellbeauty.com 04 Scoop

20 What I’ve learnt from Pat McGrath

EDITOR Jemima Cousins SUB EDITORS Gemma Rusiecki, Julie Vuong WRITERS Jennifer Meredith, Keysha Davis DESIGNER Marzena Wilk

FIND US ONLINE @spellmagazine E: editorial@spellmagazine.com

COVER OF CURLTURE FULL CREDITS INSIDE BACK COVER

© 2021 Feme Ltd. Reproduction of the contents of Spell Magazine in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are the author’s own, and may not reflect the views and opinions of Feme Ltd.

P O SCO ry goss! all the indust Bulletin with

"HEALTHY HAIR DOESN'T START WITH PRODUCT SELECTION; HEALTHY HAIR BEGINS INTERNALLY"

Nylah's Naturals Strength and Shine Shampoo Cream, £12

Interview

Debunking old school hair myths and solving wash-day conundrums A common question I’m asked is: 'how often should I wash my hair?' As a minimum, I recommend that the hair and scalp is cleaned at least once every two weeks with a pH balanced sulphatefree shampoo. Doing so will encourage natural moisture back into your hair and balance the acid mantle on your scalp.

BEHIND THE BRAND

NYLAH'S NATURALS When it comes to caring for black hair, Nylah's Naturals CEO and founder Kam Davis is on a mission to educate and share sciencebased facts Read the full interview at spellmagazine.com

Afro hair is unique in its structure and requires oils and sebum to maintain optimum moisture and hydration. To achieve this, regular washing will ensure the removal of excess grease, dirt molecules and environmental aggressors, which can all compromise the health of your scalp and cause the hair to break. An active lifestyle, the length of your hair and your styling choices are also factors that dictate SPELL

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how frequently you wash your hair. Our Strength and Shine Shampoo Cream cleanses without stripping the hair of its optimum pH level of 5.0, keeping the scalp healthy and regulated.

iron, omegas, vitamin C, biotin and adequate hydration are all essential for a healthy body and healthy hair production. Secondly, you should focus on products with plantbased ingredients.

Contrary to popular belief, healthy hair doesn't start with product selection; healthy hair begins internally. Therefore diet plays a crucial role. Hair is the second fastest growing cell in the body. However, it is not a vital organ or tissue, and therefore your body will never prioritise its nutritional needs. If you're lacking in any crucial vitamins and nutrients, this can impact your hair's health, strength and growth rate.

Nylah's Naturals prohibits the use of over 1,500 harmful ingredients and I consider this to be one of the brand's most positive attributes. With my daughter suffering from eczema, I had to be very mindful of the products and ingredients used on her skin. This is what sparked my interest in the science of black haircare. Today we work in close partnership with scientists, who keep us updated with advancements in beauty technology, so we can take a solutionfocused approach to our expanding range.

To maintain healthy hair growth, it is vital to feed your body with what it needs. Protein,

Online

CARRA: THE PERSONALISED HAIR PLATFORM WE NEVER KNEW WE NEEDED

Fashion

With the launch of carra.co, personal haircare advice is only a tap away. The user-friendly site pairs you with a hair expert (a bit like match.com), to help you improve your current regime. You’ll be offered a personalised prescription including product recommendations and methods to try at home. Packages start from £40.

BRITISH COUNCIL WORKS WITH LOCAL FASHION DESIGNERS IN KENYA To counteract the crippling effects the pandemic has imposed on the fashion industry, the British Council launched a creative programme to boost the exposure of African designers. The 12-month bootcamp-style course helped 11 emerging designers hone their business, marketing and digital skills. The fruits of their labour can be seen in digital magazine Wauzine, which showcases their designs in a high fashion shoot set against Nairobi’s colour-rich backdrop.

36 SHADES OF BEIGE Highly rated for its efficacious skincare, The Ordinary has launched its first ever concealer. Offering full coverage and an impressive selection of shades, the formula spreads evenly for a skin-like finish without creasing in fine lines. Price £4.90

Save vs Splurge

News

NEXT TOP MODEL After her stellar debut at Joe Biden's inauguration, there's no stopping poet laureate Amanda Gorman. Not only has she signed with one of the world’s biggest modelling agencies IMG Models, the young star was also interviewed by former First Lady Michelle Obama last month for Time Magazine. #GirlPower

LIHA Gold Shea Butter, £25

SHEA MOISTURE Raw Shea Butter, £10.99 SPELL

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Let’s talk hair glues How to avoid disastrous hair dramas and the best products out now

No matter how cute it looks, no one wants a forever ponytail. Ever! Unfortunately that was the case for TikToker Tessica Brown who uploaded a video of her ordeal after using a super-strength glue NOT designed for hair. With over 20 million views, since going viral there’s been a lot of talk surrounding the use of strong hair glues in general. We wade in on the conversation by talking to hair glue users and a certified expert...

Photography: Amanda Akokhia Hair: Michelle Thompson

TEST “Hair glues can cause irritation under the skin so it’s important to do a test before applying it directly to the scalp and the hair. I recommend testing behind the ear where it’s most sensitive for 24 hours. That way if you have a reaction it’s not so visible.”

MOISTURISE “If you use hair glues regularly, always moisturise the area where the glue has been applied. These products are known to be highly drying on the hair, so use a water bottle spray to break down the glue bonds before restyling or washing it out.”

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Afro Hairdresser of the Year Rick Roberts advises to “always go professional” when selecting products with strong-hold. “The formulas are designed to be kinder to the hair and the ingredients come at a premium, so you get what you pay for.” When it comes to hairstyles, like ultra-sleek ponytails, that require a lot of staying power, he recommends the following...

LET YOUR HAIR BREATHE “After wearing a style that puts tension on your scalp, when you take your hair down let your hair breathe for at least 24 hours. This will prevent hair loss and in worst cases traction alopecia which can be irreversible.”

Digital content creator Chanel Brookelyn says’ “I use hair glues mainly to create sleek ponytails. I detangle my hair first and apply the glue when it’s damp, leaving it to dry and set. When used correctly, the results are spot on. You get longlasting hold and edges look super laid. I think the stigma from hair glues comes from how people remove it. I always wash it out so I’m removing the product build-up.”

substance comes into contact with heat it’s a no-no. Also some of the ingredients can cause skin irritation and should be used with caution. I’m now in the process of growing out my hair and swapping my all hair products for natural formulas only”. Spell Magazine editor Jemima Cousins adds, “I’m not a fan of hair glues and rarely use them. When I do I dab the smallest amount along the hairline and remove with water. The case of Tessica Brown has been an eye-opener for us all and reinforces the need for further education.”

After a bad experience with a fixing spray, Spell reader Yomi Harding warns users need to pay attention to the ingredients list. “Hairsprays contain alcohol and when this

PROFESSIONAL HAIR GLUES FOR WIG AND WEAVE WEARERS Redken Hardwear Scuplting Gel, £15.70 • Got2b Blasting Freeze Spray, £4.29 • Label.m Hair Glue, £15.50 • ORS Fix it Grip Gel, £5.19 • Fudge Hair Gum, £14

THE BEST GELS FOR LAYING DOWN BABY HAIRS Eco Style Gel Black Castor & Flaxseed, £6.99 • Mielle Edge Gel, £7.69 • KeraCare Edge Tamer, £5.50 • Grohealthy Shea & Coconut Color Edges, £4.49 • Twisted Sista Nourishing Sleek Edge Gel, £5.89

STYLING GELS FOR LONG-LASTING CURL DEFINITION Imbue Curl Empowering Crème Gel, £6.99 • amika Enhancing Gel, £40 • Monat Flexible Hold Gel, £32 • Trepadora Bamboo Ginseng Glaze, £21 • Shea Moisture Frizz Defense Styling Gel Cream, £10.99 SPELL

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Vivienne Westwood

From Whitney to Zendaya, the bob has been the haircut of choice for superstars of every decade. Rework the classic with sleek strands or a copious amount of curls.

@joansmalls

Rodarte

BODYLICIOUS BOBS

@chanelbrookelyn

@shanbrii

@6kenza

ACCA KAPPA Nylon Styling Brush, £32

@sharshar_xo

TRENDS 2021

SHEAR MUSE Lucia, £39.99

GHD Rise Professional Hot Brush, £169

SPELL

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No tape. No glue. No fuss. Simply laced to perfection.

slay all day everyday EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY FEME LTD I feme.com

Kevin Luchmun for Toni&Guy

THE RISE OF THE MAN WEAVE

While hair loss has traditionally been a taboo subject for men, the rise of male hair replacements is breaking the silence

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The male afro haircare market is having a moment. Although mainly centred on women, the natural hair movement is making room for male stories and issues - leading to a surge in interest of men’s haircare. The male grooming industry on the whole is on an upward trajectory, with statista.com estimating its current worth at over £77 million. And it seems that black men in particular are now enjoying exploring the plethora of haircare and grooming products available on the shelves. Over the last few years, we’ve witnessed a rise in haircare brands aimed specifically at black men, such as the Aaron Wallace collection and US-based Bevel. This is in conjunction with the online visibility of barbershops and hair companies such as Slider Cuts, NewFade and Diligence. Another growing haircare trend is the use of male hair replacement units. Previously, hair enhancements such as hair transplant surgery were extremely costly and out of reach for the majority of clients. More accessible methods, such as hair extensions, were also greeted with indifference because the technology wasn’t available to replicate the authentic look and feel of afrotextured hair. But with the increasing appetite for men’s grooming products and services, a change is on the horizon. Hair replacement treatments are no longer taboo and are in fact being openly embraced by many men. The changing face of hair replacement units These days men can access viable non-surgical solutions for issues such as hair loss and thinning, which is largely due to the commitment

NewFade’s units can be styled into a variety of on-trend finishes

of black male haircare professionals in addressing these issues. These innovators are creating hair replacement units that mimic the look and texture of afro hair, resulting in an authenticity that was harder to find in previous years. Dr. Joel Akwenuke is the founder and CEO of NewFade, a South London based hair loss business that’s currently leading the charge with its price-friendly hair loss solutions for men. He says: ‘It’s easy to understand why hair replacement pieces were not embraced historically because they were poorly done. We’ve placed an emphasis on making them look stylish and hyperrealistic to remove the stigma.’ He adds: ‘At NewFade, we specialise in affordable hair replacement units as we feel that it’s the fastest method of solving hair loss for men, with unbelievably good results - particularly with what can now be achieved. Ultimately, the vast majority of men don’t wake up wanting to lose their hair. We want to give men the opportunity to have their hair back and be able to express themselves.’ Life-like man weaves Modern hair replacement units (also known as man weaves) first began gaining popularity in the US before making their way to the UK. The process involves attaching natural afro-textured hair extensions onto the head or scalp and securing them with an adhesive. A barber will then begin cutting and shaping the extensions to blend in with the client’s own natural hair. It’s a process that requires high technical skill and a keen eye for detail. Men can opt for a number of trending looks, such as a flat top or high-top, a neat classic trim (number two) or soft waves resembling natural afro curls ranging from 4a-4c curl patterns. Hairdresser and entrepreneur Hector Obeng explains why he felt the need to add hair replacement units to his list of services: ‘A good friend of mine started to lose his hair and during the same time I started hearing about these noninvasive forms of hair replacements,’ he says. ‘I learned that they are pain-free and nothing like hair transplants. After polishing my craft in the US, I began offering the service at my salon and my clients are responding well. More people have hair replacement system units than you can imagine - especially on the silver screen.’ SPELL

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OUT NOW Top products for men

Cantu Leave-in Conditioner, £6.99

L’Oréal Professionnel Hair Touch Up, £9.95

Sunny Isle Jamaican Black Castor Oil Beard Oil, £6.99

Wahl Cordless Magic Clip, £93.99

Available for a fairly affordable price point (Hector Obeng’s units start from £250), hair replacement units have become a saving grace for countless black men suffering from hair loss. But with lockdown restrictions preventing salons from opening in the UK, will barbershops and clinics be forced to find new ways to serve their clientele? ‘The pandemic has prevented us from seeing our customers in person, however, it has enabled us to work on some really interesting things behind the scenes,’ explains Dr. Akwenuke. It’s clear to see that the inspirational success story of hair replacement units is still being written - and we’ll definitely be watching this space.

Capsule wardrobe 1

needs

Photo Why J Miller

iast Seven essentials every curl enthus

6 2

CURLY HAIR DOES NOT ALWAYS REQUIRE AN ARMY OF PRODUCTS

1. Aveda Rinseless Refresh Micellar Hair & Scalp Refresher, £24.50 2. Crème of Nature Aloe & Black Castor Root Charge Serum. £5.49 3. Oribe Curl Gelée For Shine & Definition, £39.50 4. Flora & Curl Clay Wash, £22 5. Philip Kingsley Curl Activator Curl Defining Cream, £22 6. Bouclème Scalp Exfoliating Shampoo, £26 7. Curls Blueberry Bliss Repairative Hair Wash, £15 SPELL

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R E W PO

P U R U O Y

D AYS

EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY FEME LTD feme.com

FRISKY 24”

length

SASHAY 24”

ra Go the ext

KINK 24”

SW I

36”

Available in a variety of head swishing lengths from 19 to 36 inches

#teamnatural This month Curlture celebrates its seventh anniversary as one of the UK’s leading natural hair influencers. Here creators Jay-Ann Lopez and Trina Charles reveal how they stay relevant

Hair: (Left) Jay-Ann is wearing X-pression Ultra Braid Pre-Stretched (Right) Trina is wearing The Feme Collection Ponytail in Kink SPELL

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WHAT DID YOU HOPE TO ACHIEVE WHEN YOU STARTED CURLTURE?

Trina: In 2014 we were both embarking on natural hair journeys and a lot of the information and bloggers we came across were from overseas, particularly America. The conversations about hair were dominated by them - and when they recommended products it was impossible to find them in the UK at that time. So, by developing Curlture, we wanted to give the UK a voice and build a community that amplified that. WHAT’S BEEN THE HIGH POINTS OF YOUR CAREER?

Jay: For me personally our book, Kink, was definitely a high point. It was a combination of poetry and photography to empower black women and shed light on topics like texture discrimination and colourism. When the book came out, we’d only been influencers for two years and we could see how being lighter-skinned and having a certain curl pattern bought more brand deals. And that just didn’t sit right with us. A lot of women have abandoned the natural hair scene because they felt undervalued. Kink was our way of putting something out there that wasn’t online. It’s sort of a keepsake for when you need a confidence boost. T: One thing that sticks in my mind is being featured on BET UK. It was such a moment! We had a segment in between shows where we were talking about ourselves, celebrating natural hair and doing bite-sized tutorials. For a UK platform this was quite revolutionary and it really helped to grow our audience. HOW DO YOU CONTINUE TO EVOLVE YOUR STYLE?

J: Some of our inspiration comes from ourselves; we’re naturally quite creative. We definitely look to platforms like Instagram – I really like Culture Icon TV’s content – and Pinterest. It’s about moving with the times and staying flexible with what we do. The introduction of TikTok and Reels has encouraged us to create content in new formats, so we’re learning and changing all the time. T: Magazine editorial and celebrities play a role too by showing how to take everyday trends a step further. I’m always looking at front covers and red

carpet looks and thinking about I can put my own stamp on them. Our image is bold and edgy - stepping out of our comfort zone is the norm for us and gives us our individual style. WHAT HAIR OR BEAUTY TIPS DID YOU PICK UP FROM YOUR MUM?

T: (Laughs) ‘Leave your hair alone.’ Now I’ve taken her advice it’s actually flourishing. J: Mine was ‘Don’t pick your chin.’ My family is quite hairy so facial hair is quite normal. My mum told me not to pick at the hair because it leaves dark marks, which is true. HOW DO YOU DECIDE WHICH BRANDS YOU’LL WORK WITH?

J: We look at a few things like who the brand is serving, what the product is, how involved are they in the black community and so on. If we’re the first black creators they’re working with we think about how the content we make is going to speak to our audience. T: We’ve always been creators of substance and our community knows us well. If a brand didn’t align with what we’re about, our audience would tell us. That’s why what we put our name to projects that reflect us and the women who stand behind us. INFLUENCERS HAVE RECEIVED A BAD RAP FOR VISITING EXOTIC DESTINATIONS DURING THE PANDEMIC. WHERE DO YOU STAND ON THAT?

J: I can understand why there’s resentment towards influencers. Often people think what they do isn’t anything special or challenging. As an influencer I would argue it’s about being responsible. For those who are serious about their craft, a lot of work goes on behind the scenes. It’s their job to promote and market, but the success lies in being inspirational and relatable. Partying in a nightclub with no mask on while there are people who have lost loved ones to Covid is straight up insensitive. WHAT WOULD GO IN YOUR INFLUENCER STARTER KIT?

T: Figure out your reasons. Why are you doing this? What do you want to achieve? It’s no secret that some just want free stuff, but they don’t tend to last long in the game. Follow @CurltureUK SPELL

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Creative CORNER

A quick look back at the girls’ effervescent style and flair for on-point directional natural hair over the last seven years

Aveda

spell loves FEED YOUR INNER PRODUCT JUNKIE From high-tech reusable period pads to Mother’s Day gifts, here’s what the Spell team is obsessing over this month

THREE SIMPLE SUSTAINABLE SWAPS

Do your bit for the planet by making a few tweaks to your beauty habits. Starting from the top, Aveda is a hero that often flies under the radar for textured hair. Vegan since 1978, it’s the OG for setting eco beauty standards. Meanwhile, for a nail polish that stands above the planet-friendly parapet, look to Orly’s cruelty-free and halal certified formulation. Lastly, cut down on plastic waste with the reusable (and very impressive) period pads by Dame.

Aveda Botanical Repair Shampoo and Conditioner, from £26

Orly Breathable Nail Polish in Let the Good Times Roll, £11.75

Dame Reusable Period Pads, £9.99 each

INSTA LOVE

Pics & captions we’ve liked on the ‘gram this month

@ginaatinukeknight Caption: What they don’t see during the zoom meetings #grannypants

@alealimay Caption: The secret is outttt @jumpman23

SPELL

@transparentblackgirl Caption: Processing trauma doesn’t always mean you’ll be in pain.

MAGAZINE

@mstinalawson Caption: My talented granddaughter Blue made up my face today.

MOTHER’S DAY CHILLAXING KIT

With all the dramatic lifestyle changes we’ve endured over the past year, prioritising self-care is a must – especially for mums. Every mother-figure out there deserves some pampering, so whether she loves skincare, homeware or a luxury candle, here are some great gift ideas to note down.

AMARA 100% Mulberry Silk Pillowcase, £25.50

EPARA Cleansing Oil, £45

BULAN Dark Noir Diffuser, £40 JO MALONE Fragrance Layered Candle, £159

ULTRA QUARTZ Cleansing Wand, £69

GOOD NIGHT’S REST

A new phenomenon called ‘coronasomnia’ has emerged, which is an increase in acute insomnia bought on by stress and anxiety caused by the pandemic. So if you’re finding yourself tossing and turning at night, Soak Sunday’s mindful bath time treats provide an effortless way to restore inner calm. Infused with the fragrant aroma of rose petals and soothing lavender, this range promises to melt away the stresses of the busy world. From £14.

CHAIN REACTION

If sunglasses shopping is on your to-do list, turn your attention to chains rather than just focusing on the frames. The arbitrary accessory often associated with nerds and office secretaries is the newschool way of making your shades stand out this summer. Kaleos has a selection of chunky linked versions that can also double up as a necklace. Prices from £30.

SPELL

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Set your own trends What’s new, exclusive and iconic. Discover our curated digital hair and beauty boutique today.

Biocare Labs

The Feme Collection Afro Puff HH The Feme Collection V

Lace Wig Gloss Waves

Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Liquid Soap

Baby Tress Edge Styler

SPELLBEAUTY.COM SpellBeautyUk

Urban Twist Passion Twist

Spell Beauty collaborates with Dorcas Creates to launch a limited edition tote bag

International Women’s Day takes place 8th March

Secure the bag, sis

Dorcas Magbadelo in her creative element

For International Women’s Day, Spell Beauty has partnered with illustrator Dorcas Magbadelo, AKA Dorcas Creates, to launch a limited-edition tote bag. The exclusive collaboration celebrates all the glorious ways black women style their hair. Its design features a print of various hairstyles - from bouffant ‘fros and accessorised on-trend ponytails to sleek weaves. Meanwhile, its catchy slogan, ‘My mood, My mane’, captures the creative freedom and artistic flair women have when it comes to their crowning glory. Magbadelo’s punchy pop art designs are famed for referencing fashionable sisters from all walks of life. And her penchant for drawing hairstyles of every kind made her the perfect fit for the project, which launches this month.

“I love my pins because it’s fun to see a 3D representation of my work and I love the idea of people wearing mini gold black women when they’re out and about. At the moment my favourite pin is my Lindiwe pin - it’s the biggest I’ve done so far and has beautiful faux pearl embellishments.”

“I’m very much inspired by the black women I see in person and online during my day to day excursions. I like to draw a range of hairstyles and body shapes to show the full scope of beauty found in black women. I look back on my own hair journey and the vast number of hairstyles I’ve had in the past 33 years – relaxed hair, big chop, braids, TWA, wigs galore, dyed and fried multiple times; it’s a lot! Our relationship with our hair and how we choose to express that is so complex; I really like exploring it visually in my illustrations.”

“I think it’s important for young black girls in particular to visually see the full scope of what black womanhood is and can be. There’s no one way to be anything in this world. We’re so complex SPELL

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and I think it’s important for us to hold space for everyone.” “I’m working on a couple of literary projects at the moment so hopefully you’ll see some book covers by me soon. I’d love to expand the range of products that I offer and get more into homeware. I just want to put black women everywhere and on everything.”

Purchase the limited-edition My Mood, My Mane tote bag from Spell Beauty. Price £10

WHAT I’VE LEARNT FROM

Pat McGrath

In honour of Pat MacGrath’s recent damehood, we speak to Pat McGrath Labs’ education and artistry manager Adeola Gboyega about how the world’s most influential make-up artist changed the game

“Ten years ago, I wasn’t aware of many black makeup artists working in the industry. In fact, come to think of it, I had never personally met a professional black make-up artist. All I knew was that I had a dream and was heavily inspired by Pat McGrath. If you’re not familiar with her career, let me give you an overview. Born in Northampton in 1970, McGrath moved to London as a teenager where she met many of the people who would become lifelong collaborators, including Naomi Campbell. Fast forward to a few decades later and Vogue named her as the most influential make-up artist in the world. In 2015, she launched her cosmetics company, Pat McGrath Labs, which catapulted her to self-made billionaire status. With so many career milestones, what stands out most to me is that McGrath is a black woman who has single-handedly dominated the beauty and fashion industry for over 25 years. And that’s no mean feat.

representation shouldn’t be a flash Being the UK education and artistry in the pan. Quite simply, it should be manager for Pat McGrath Labs is a role interwoven into a brand’s ethos. I’m incredibly proud of. Throughout my career, it’s always been important “I’ve been very fortunate to carve to me to work for brands that I could identify with and that represented me. I out a successful career because I remember the shame I’d feel in my first was able to see what the likes of McGrath achieved before me. Lack of make-up counter job when a customer asked me what foundation I was wearing. representation has been a stigma in Because I wasn’t able to recommend one society, but with initiatives like Pull Up for Change founded by Uoma Beauty I was selling, I never felt like I was truly representing the brand or that the brand CEO Sharon Chuter, companies have identified with me. From then on I swore been called out and directly challenged to myself that I’d never put myself in that about the lack of opportunities for position again. But sadly it was indicative black employees in leadership roles. I of the times - there was a lack of diversity can truly say I feel a real change in the and big make-up companies were failing beauty industry and the sign of great things to come. to cater for those with darker skin. “Even with brands like Bobbi Brown and “For anyone wanting to get into beauty, my advice is to never stop MAC Cosmetics making a concerted effort, choice was still very limited. Today, learning. If there’s an individual or indie beauty brands founded by women of brand you admire, make a beeline to colour have been a saving a grace while work within that company. Observe and soak up all the information you heavy hitters like Fenty Beauty, Huda Beauty and Uoma Beauty have disrupted can. Don’t be afraid to ask for advice the market and succeeded where many or seek mentorship. Ultimately, it’s others have failed. Decades have passed your passion that will keep you going where people of colour have had to deal despite any hurdles you may face. And on that note, all I can say is thank you with limited shade choice, especially when it came to foundation. This is why Dame McGrath.” SPELL

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ADEOLA’S TOP 5 PAT MCGRATH PRODUCTS Skin Fetish Sublime Perfection Foundation, £60 “As a big advocate for skincare I’m obsessed with this foundation. McGrath is the queen of creating flawless skin on the runways and this formula contains skinloving ingredients that hydrate while blurring fine lines and imperfections.” Skin Fetish: Highlighter Balm Duo in Golden, £45 “This beautiful highlighter will take your glow to a whole new level. It combines a cream highlighter with a transparent balm that can be worn together or on their own. This is a backstage secret of McGrath’s that she’s shared with the world.” Mothership V: Bronze Seduction Palette, £115 “Born from the runway, McGrath created these intense pigments so we can all take our artistry to extravagant heights. There’s nothing like these intense pigments, which aren’t just eyeshadows but pigments you can use on the whole face.” MatteTrance Lipstick in OMI, £35 “When you think of matte lipstick you may think of a dry formula that feels uncomfortable to wear. But this unique lipstick delivers a soft, weightless and intense pigment in just one stroke.” Dark Star Mascara, £26 “This mascara delivers instant volume and lift to the lashes. With just a couple of strokes, lashes immediately appear fuller and more defined. A must-try if you don’t like to spend too much time building your mascara.”

brands TO BOOKMARK Organic

Campaign

Black-owned

BOCA Daytime & Overnight Organic Toothpaste with Bamboo Toothbrush, £9.99

TONI&GUY Connected campaign representing self-expression

SIGNATURE by Dionne Smith, from £80

From newsworthy campaigns to notso-average hair and beauty finds, here are the launches to take note of this month

SPELL

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The

SPELL-OMETER What’s hot and what’s not in the world of Spell

SpellBeauty.com

BULLETIN

Launches, promos and discounts you don’t want to miss

HOT

WHO RUN THE WORLD? International Women’s Day takes place on 8th March. This year’s theme: #ChooseToChallenge

GO EAST Hanbang ingredients are making a splash in Korean skincare. Try ginseng root, sacred lotus and rehmannia for glowing skin.

NOT

EYE OPENER Repetitive blinking and wiggling your brows it’s all part of the new beauty phenomenon that is ‘eye yoga’.

NOT-SO-HOT SPOTS Have influencers tarnished our favourite hotspots by travelling during the pandemic?

BIOCARE BODY BUTTER AND OIL Does your skincare need a boost? Biocare Labs’ Body Butter is enriched with intensely moisturising ingredients for this very purpose. Use in addition with Wow Oils’ selection of super hydrating oils and you’ve got yourself a deluxe combo. Body butters start from £5.20 and oils from £11.70.

PONYTAIL PERFECTION

@oa_hmakeup_official

We always knew just how versatile the Pretty Quick Pony Afro Bubble Pony was for up-dos, but Ophelia Hamilton has taken it to another level with this truly elegant look. Even better, this style isn’t difficult to recreate at all. Simply place your own hair into a sleek bun before using the pre-installed clips and band to secure the Bubble Pony. Available now for £12.99.

SPELL BEAUTY NEWSLETTER

SAVING DAYLIGHT Brighter evenings are just around the corner and we can’t wait!

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NO NEUTRALS Has beige had its day? SS21 collections say ‘yes’! SPELL

22 MAGAZINE

LITTLECK BLA BOOK

SH O P DU CTS TH E PR O FE AT U RE D

IN TH IS ’S M O N TH IS SU E

B E AU T Y

BULAN bulan-uk.com EPARA eparaskincare.com JO MALONE jomalone.co.uk LIHA lihabeauty.com ORLY orlybeauty.co.uk PAT MCGRATH patmcgrath.com SHEA MOISTURE boots.com SOAK SUNDAY soaksunday.com THE ORDINARY beautybay.com

HAIR AACCA KAPPA a2zhair.com AMIKA Selfridges.com AVEDA aveda.co.uk BIOCARE LABS spellbeauty.com BOUCLÈME boucelme.co.uk CANTU superdrug.com CRÈME OF NATURE superdrug.com CURLS BLUEBERRY all good hair outlets ECO STYLE boots.com FLORA & CURL floracurl.co.uk FUDGE uk.fudgeprofessional.com GHD ghdhair.com GOT2B superdrug.com GROHEALTHY all good afro retailers IMBUE imbuecurls.co.uk KERACARE lookfantastic.com L’ORÈAL PROFESSIONNEL

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk LABEL.M labelm.com MIELLE hairgrade.com MONAT monatglobal.com NYLAH'S NATURALS nylahsnaturals.com ORIBE spacenk.com ORS superdrug.com OUTRE PRETTY QUICK PONY

spellbeauty.com PHILIP KINGSLEY philipkingsley.co.uk REDKEN lookfantastic.com SHEAMOISTURE boots.com SHEAR MUSE spellbeauty.com SUNNY ISLE spellbeauty.com TREPADORA trepadora.com TWISTED SISTA spellbeauty.com WAHL wahl.co.uk

E X T R AS DAME weardame.co CARRA carra.co KALEOS kaleoscollection.com SPELL BEAUTY X DORCAS CREATES TOTE BAG spellbeauty.com COVER CREDITS Photography Femelle Studios Make-up Natasha Wright using Cake Cosmetics Hair Pashcanel Mitchell

WHERE TO FIND SPELL SALONS

AFROTHERAPY 235 Fore Street, London, N18 2TZ, 020 8345 5621 ANNE VECK 33 St Clements, Oxford, OX4 1AB, 01865 727 077 APRIL HAIR SALON 5 Bull Street, Burnley, BB11 1DW, 01282 839 726 COBELLA 5 Kensington High Street, London, W8 5NP, 020 7118 1277 DKUK 191 Queen's Road, Peckham, London, SE15 2NG, 020 3609 0920 ELITE HAIR LOUNGE 24 Sidney Road, London, SW9 0TS, 020 7207 5904 GEORGE KOSIT HAIR 10-12 Bristol Street, Birmingham, B5 7AA, 0121 622 6782 HAIR 305 305 Brompton Road, London, SW3 2DY, 020 7118 1277 HYPE COIFFURE 186 Lavender Hill, Battersea, London, SW11 5TQ, 020 7223 3800 JUNIOR GREEN LONDON 55 Kensington Church Street, London, W8 4BA, 020 7752 0620 LATHANIEL’S COUTURE 196 Coldharbour Lane, London, SE5 9QH, 020 3601 0683 MIMI ET MINA 16 Needham Road, London, W11 2RP, 020 7727 9356 MY HAIR BAR 22 Warren Street, London, W1T 5LU, 020 7380 0188 NAILS & BROWS 31 Berkeley Street, London, W1J 8EJ, 020 7499 5245 NEW YORK HAIR DESIGN 2 Langham Parade, London, N15 3ND, 020 8888 3397 NICKY OLIVER HAIRDRESSING 32 Oldham Street, Manchester, M1 1JN, 0161 241 0380 PECKHAM PALMS Peckham Palm Arcade, Unit 1-14 Bournemouth Close, Peckham Rye, London, SE15 4PB, 020 7062 2000 PURELY NATURAL 119 The Grove, London, E15 1EN, 020 8221 0122 SIMPLY GORGEOUS 79 Kingsgate Road, Kilburn, London, NW6 4JY, 020 7625 4500 THE CURL BAR 210 Middle Lane, Hornsey, London, N8 7LA, 020 3667 7204 THE HAIR SANCTUARY 90b Mitford Street, Manchester, M32 8AQ, 0161 536 1249 THINK PRETTY 301 High Road Leytonstone, London, E11 4HH, 020 7232 5168

SHOPS

NORTH LONDON EDMONTON HAIR & COSMETICS LIMITED 257-159 Fore Street, Edmonton, N18 2TY, 0208 887 6158 HAIRITAGE 1 Queens Parade, Walm Lane NW2 5HT, 020 3417 4844 PAK’S HAIR BOUTIQUE 25 Stroud Green Road, Stroud Green, N4 3EF, 0207 263 2331 PAK’S HAIR & COSMETICS HARLESDEN 57 Craven Park Road, Harlesden, NW10, 8SH, 0208 963 1730 EAST LONDON BEAUTY QUEEN COSMETICSUnit 19, 70-73 The Mall, The Stratford Centre, Stratford, E15 1XQ, 0208 534 8786 JUDITH'S HAIR & BEAUTY Barking Rd, London E13 8HJ, 07949 818778 PAK COSMETICS 212 Heathway, Dagenham, Greater London RM10 9NS, 0208 592 9108 QUEENS COSMETICS 391 Green St, Upton Park, E13 9AU, 0208 471 1699 SUPERGROWS COSMETICS 2 4-25 Queens Market, Upton Park, E13 9BA, 0208 552 9886

YOUR HAIR & BEAUTY Stratford Centre, 20 Broadway, E15 4QS, 0208 555 0946 SOUTH LONDON PAK’S HAIR CENTRE 141 Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 4ST, 0207 732 2822 SABINA HAIR & COSMETICS 68-70 Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 5BY, 0207 469 7356 SABINA 69 Mitcham Road, Tooting Broadway, SW17 9PB, 0208 682 0055 SABINA 6B Greens End, Woolwich, SE18 6HX, 0208 855 5266 YOUR HAIR & BEAUTY 37 Lewis Grove, Lewisham, SE13 6BG, 0208 318 0999 NORTH WEST ENGLAND PAUL’S HAIR WORLD 53 Barbirolli Way, Arndale Centre, Manchester, M4 2HU, 0161 839 0708 PAUL’S HAIR WORLD 29-30 Oldham Street, Manchester, M1 1JG, 0161 834 6498 RAPUNZELS HAIR CITY 315 Smithdown Road, Liverpool, Merseyside, L15 0EB, 0151 733 4333 LIVERPOOL HAIR & COSMETICS 31 Dawson Way, St Johns Shopping Centre, Liverpool, Merseyside, L1 1LY, 0151 708 0699 YORKSHIRE & THE HUMBER CC HAIR & BEAUTY 256-258 Roundhay Road, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS8 5RL, 0113 249 5562 BRITS HAIR & BEAUTY 30 Kirkgate, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD1 1QL, 01274 733 287 PRISSY'S 6 Saint James Road, Halifax, West Yorkshire, HX1 1YS, 01422 345 482 CC HAIR & BEAUTY 119-129 Chapeltown Road, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS7 3DU, 0113 262 3728 TALKING HEADS 51-57 St Sepulchre Gate, Doncaster, DN1 1UB, 01302 328 720 CC HAIR & BEAUTY Unit 2 & 3 Leeming House, Vicar Lane, Leeds, LS1 6BY, 07709 836 498 WEST MIDLANDS TZ ENTERPRISES 40 Queen Street, Wolverhampton, West Midlands, WV1 3JW, 01902 574 920 EAST ANGLIA BEAUTY BY ZARA Grays, Essex, RM17 6QJ, 01375 376 050 SOUTH EAST ENGLAND MIA HAIR & BEAUTY 41 Mill Street Luton, LU1 2NA, 01582 727 878 ABV HAIR & BEAUTY STORE 79 Lowfield Street, Dartford, Kent, DA1, 01322 276 003 BISMI COSMETICS 7 Farthing Grove, Netherfield, Milton Keynes, MK6 4HH, 01908 393 144 MAADE HAIR & BEAUTY 4 Rhode Street, ME4 4AL, 01634924102 QUEEN MALAIKA 29 Kingston Road, Portsmouth, PO2 7DP, 02392862044 SCOTLAND ELEORA LTD 94 King Street, Aberdeen, AB24 5BA, 0122 446 7896 SINE HAIR & BEAUTY 196 Hope Street, Glasgow G2 2UG, 0141 237 4556 LUSH HAIR Unit 38-41 Inshop Paisley Centre, High St., Paisley, Glasgow, 0141 887 7025

VIRGIN REMI

VELVET VIBES Hair that gives off the right energy. Easy to dye, tone and bleach – The Feme Collection V™ Virgin Remi hair at its purest. Exclusively distributed by Feme Ltd | feme.com

Spell Magazine March 2021

Articles inside

Bulletin

The rise of the man weave

teamnatural

Scoop

Let's talk hair glues