AUG - SEPT 2014 ISSUE 38
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©Christmas Island Tourism
©Liechtenstein Marketing
©Marcela Cardenas
22
©Michael Johnson
©Cyprus Tourism Organisation
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Best of Wildlife
18
Best of Far-Flung Gems
32
Best of Activities
12
Best of Mountain Destinations
26
Best of Islands
38
Best of Culture
16
Gear Guide
REGULARS 05
Publisher's Note
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Travel Tips
Publisher's Note
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This issue we're exploring our "Best Of..." list of destinations, based on our (biased) picks for what’s hot for the beginning of 2014, selected from personal experiences and lists from travel bigwigs like Lonely Planet and National Geographic, but mostly compiled during a stupor of debauched indulgences during the year-end parties.
include mountain biking (along Utah's legendary Park City and Moab mountain bike trails), rock climbing (in Europe's little-known Abella de la Conca), diving (in Derawan for (along the Scottish countryside along the new John Muir Trail).
Covering 6 categories, we've included a bit of everything from wildlife hotspots to remote destinations, so there should be a little of something for everyone.
When compiling the Best of Mountains, it’s hard to miss the Himalayas – Uttarakhand’s an easy pick with its mix of spirituality and soaring summits – and the Alps, with the tiny Principality of Liechtenstein.
wildlife hotspot Christmas Island, and then it’s of to one of the Amazon's least-visited corners: Guyana, which is also arguably home to the best waterfall in the world, Kaieteur Falls.
Our Best of Islands pick includes Cape Verde for its amazing scenery, culture and value, as well as Cyprus with its ancient Greek ruins, Byzantine churches, and bragging rights for visiting the world's last divided capital city.
in Africa with Namibia with its forbidding in the Arctic, South Georgia the site of Shackleton's epic life-or-death trek, before
Finally, our Best of Culture is not without colour, from PNG's amazing tribes to India’s Rajasthan, with its architectural wonders of Rajput warrior kings. Until then, Happy Trails!
some breathtaking ecological wonders. For the Best of Activities, we’ve included popular things to do while on a trip – these
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Best of
With so many challenges facing our world today, it's more important than ever to celebrate its diversity, and appreciate the amazing wealth of wildlife our planet is home to. And there's no better way to come to grips with that than by
Wildlife
Amazon or Christmas Island in the Indian Ocean.
Christmas Island:
PHOTOS FROM Christmas Island Tourism
Diversity in Droves Closer in proximity to Indonesia than it is to mainland Australia, Christmas Island rises out of the Indian Ocean as the tip of an extinct submarine volcano. Reaching 361m at its highest point, the central plateau is dominated by stands of rainforest that is home to a host of wildlife that have made this island famous.
robber crabs which can grow up to 1m in length from leg to leg.
Named in 1643 for the day of its discovery, this Australian territory is now famous worldwide for its annual red crab migration, when millions of these red crustaceans crawl out of their burrows and march to the ocean to breed en masse.
tails, Frigatebir red throat pouches, and many more. Christmas Island is the closest place to rds in one spot – it’s
Even if you missed the major spawning red crabs around town and in the jungles. Some areas are even home to many other species of crabs, including the giant
Other wildlife that inhabit the island in ’s resident birds – no less than 3 species of boobies can be found here (brown, red-foot and Abbott's), along with
the Indian Ocean’. Most birds are easy to spot and get close to (each species has its a joy. The island’ ranging from mangroves to hillside forests – are easily accessible via boar
Christmas Island isn't surrounded by sandy beaches – instead, its fringes are dominated by almost continuous sea cliffs that give way to shallow bays with small beaches (the largest of these is Flying Fish Cove – the island's only port). As the island is basically the tip of a volcano with a narrow encircling coral reef, the waters surrounding Christmas Island plummet to deep sea just 200m offshore. with walls of tropical reef – complete with accompanying tr re just minutes offshor (from November island’s remote location in the Indian Ocean, wildlife – both terrestrial and marine – thrive here.
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Getting There & Around fr r. Another option is via What to Eat or Drink You can get halal food in the Kampung (Malay) village, and Chinese food at Poon Saan (the Chinese settlement). Elsewhere, Australian/Western fare can be found. As alcohol is duty-free, it costs less than on mainland Australia. Food can be slightly more costly on the island than on mainland Australia, due to the fact that it has to be Where to Stay Accommodation ranges from the motel-style Christmas Island Lodge, to Sea Spray Villa and the shophouse-style Tong Chee House. Cultural Tip While it’s an Australian territory, most of Christmas Island’s inhabitants comprise of Chinese and Malay settlers from Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore (it was part of Singapore until 1957). Today, it celebrates a wide range of festivals, from Chinese New Year to Hari Raya and ANZAC Day. Fun Fact You can go to the Post Of
red
in your passport – the of stamp is not as fun.
Red Crab Migration At the beginning of the wet season (October or November), adult red crabs pop out of their rainforest burrows and head toward the ocean rd of crustacean zombies for the spawning season. During this time, roads are closed and 'crab bridges' are erected to prevent them from being crushed. The males will dig burrows by the beach where they mate, and the females remain there for 12-13 days while the males return to the forest. Around 6 January, the females head to the ocean to release their eggs into the water – the eggs hatch immediately after contact – befor rest.
This year's possible spawning dates set for 20 October, 18 November or 18 December. Bird Week A major annual event, Christmas Island's Bird'n'Nature W where you can get with visiting scientists to study endemic birds on the island. Seminars and re part of the programme. The Christmas Island Thrush, Abbott's are just some endemic species you can encounter at any time of the year, along with boobies, bosuns and frigatebirds. This year’s event is set for 30 August to 6 September 2014.
Best of
Wildlife
Guyana:
Wild Amazon There’s few places on earth that conjure a traveller’s imagination more than the Amazon. With its promise of vast rivers, raging waterfalls, remote tribes and yet-to-be-discovered species, it’s one of rontiers, and sandwiched right in Despite being seemingly small next to its immense neighbour Brazil, it covers an ar reat Britain. Comprising a narr huge jungle-interior ’s relatively small population is concentrated rgetown, its only true city. Beyond that are only towns and scattered settlements stretching across the Amazon, re given over to wildlife, whether of wilderness. The country’s capital and international hub, rgetown is small and easy to navigate around. Situated on the edge of the jungle, ’s vast hinterland, which literally begins at the city limits.
In dry season, it’s possible to drive all the way to Lethem on the Brazilian border, wher ’s jungles give way to vast and resident vaqueros (cowboys), this remote, western cor the r re crossing into rontier. Wildlife Situated between the Amazon and the reen r red plumage and rounded crest – can be found across the region. The rainforest is home to golden frogs (used for poison darts), the massive blue morpho (the lar in South America), as well as a number of rd cats. A rare treat is the sighting of the endangered three-toed sloth, which lives high in the trees and are so famously sedentary that green algae grow on their fur.
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Iwokrama Forest Along the r
rgetown into the rest. One of the largest stretches of undisturbed jungle on earth, its re home to over 500 types of bir caiman and rar rds and tiger
from its impr Part of an innovative, ongoing experiment, ’s land is set aside for strict conservation, while the other half is reful cooperation with 16 local tribal communities who are involved in ranger duties and tours, Kaieteur National Park Deep into the interior along the border with ’s undisputed gem: the world’s tallest single-drop waterfall, Kaieteur
it is an uncr Victoria or Niagara), with a r rdrails and
The easiest and fastest way to reach Kaieteur is by air, with r rom r ’s airstrip. There are also 5D/4N overland tours, starting with an From there, it’ re there are guesthouses and rangers who run Overnighting at Kaieteur allows you to re you can easily r rgetown rather than retrace their steps.
Getting There & Around r ’s sole international gateway, with dir rom New Y Toronto and London. You may also arrive by road from Brazil or ferry from Suriname. What to Eat or Drink West Indies, with pepperpots (a meaty, spiced stew), cassava and Indian curries. One of the best places to try any of these (except the pepperpot, which is harder to rgetown’s famous Stabr Where to Stay y, w, up-and-coming rainforest lodges, including Timberhead on
Cultural Tip ’s more Trinidad or Jamaica) than with its Latin neighbours. This is evident in its steel drum rgetown’s historic Fun Fact Lying on the edge of the Amazon, more than 200 species of tropical birds can be rgetown alone.
Best of
Far-Flung Gems King Haakon Bay ©Blancpain.
Manado:
On the Far Coast Manado, the capital city of Indonesia’s North Sulawesi province, is the gateway to some breathtaking ecological wonders and a fantastic setting for both aquatic and terrestrial adventures. The diversity of the region makes it possible to combine diving, rainforest exploration and mountain trekking in a single trip, and its photogenic wildlife and scenery make Manado a photographer’s paradise. The dry season, from May to November, is the best time to visit Manado – temperatures can reach highs of 35°C, but skies will be clearer and the ocean calmer. Diving The waters off the coast of Manado are
dugongs are just some of the bizarre and wonderful inhabitants of Manado’s top diving area, the Bunaken Manado Tua Marine Park. So, it’s no wonder that Bunaken, an 808-hectare island right in the middle of the Marine Park, attracts adventurous travellers from all around the world. Its shores boast incredible water clarity, with visibility of up to 35m, and some amazing natural architecture created by colonies of hard coral.
These coral reefs provide shelter for an of giant clam (out of 8 known in the entire world), and countless other aquatic organisms. At Lekuan Beach, the corals form a wall that rises up from the bottom of the ocean, and the wall’s three main projections are popular dive sites. Dropping down from Lekuan, it’s easy to picture the coelacanth (or raja laut), a 400 million-year-old species that has outlived the dinosaurs, lurking in the dark water far beneath the surface. It’s unlikely that recreational divers will actually encounter one, because these ‘living fossils’ inhabit swarms of anthias, and green turtles resting by the coral wall more than make up for any With its range of species and greater depths, while many sites in Manado’s Marine Park are advanced dives, there’s also plenty for beginner divers to explore here. Plenty of dive shops around Manado provide introductory dives and PADI courses, and snorkelling is also an option. Alung Banua, another wall diving in the Marine Park, is beginner-friendly with its mild currents. Small caves are scattered along the Alung Banua reef, and divers may
get a chance to peek at napping reef sharks in some of these caves. Entry to Bunaken Manado Tua Marine Park costs Rp 50,000 for a day ticket and Rp 150,000 for an annual pass (in the form of a waterproof tag), and proceeds from ticket sales contribute to the Bunaken National Park Management Advisory Board’s conservation fund.
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IMAGES BY :Singapore Airlines
Attractions On Land On land, Manado offers plenty of other attractions. Manado city itself is lively with architectural relics from its days as a Dutch outpost, while nearby Tangkoko Nature Reserve and the Minahasa Highlands are the real gems of the region. Tangkoko Nature Reserve is approximately an hour’s drive from Manado city, and is located on the eastern coast of North Sulawesi. It’s worth hiring an experienced guide for a jungle trek, because the non-human inhabitants of Tangkoko can be hard to spot. The delicate, nocturnal tarsier, for instance, and, at 14cm long, is one of the world’s smallest primate species. Black macaques, red-knobbed hornbills and maleos, which lay huge eggs in distinctive nest mounds, are equally elusive, but with some patience and knowledge visitors will get a rare chance to observe these species in an undisturbed habitat. Overnight stays in the park can be arranged, and these are usually in the form of a homestay complete with traditional meals. South of Manado lie the Minahasa Highlands, where visitors can enjoy whitewater rafting and volcano trekking. Numerous rivers zigzag through the Highlands, with rapids of
GETTING THERE AND AROUND Get to Manado and other beach and resort destinations with Singapore Airlines’ newest deals. From now until 30 September 2014, you can book all-inclusive special Economy Class fare from Hong Kong to Manado from HK$3,926, and to other destinations from HK$2,596, for November 30, 2014. Travellers heading to the selected Southeast Asia and Australia destinations available under this promotion (except Singapore) can return airport transfer during their stopover in Singapore. SIA Holidays package exclusive hotel offers: In addition, SIA Holidays offer a special 3-day/2-night package to Manado, Bali and Lombok from HK$3,825, inclusive of taxes and surcharges. For more information, please visit www.sia-holidays.com or contact SIA
Singapore Airlines’ huge network of destination includes myriad beach options, from the crystal-clear waters of the Maldives, to the laidback charm of Phuket and Bali. All these and more are within easy reach, via seven daily services between Hong Kong and Singapore’s Changi Airport. From now to 30 September 2014, travellers transiting at Changi will get to redeem a S$20 voucher, which can be used at the Ambassador Transit Lounge and selected retail, dining and service outlets. Additionally, Singapore Airlines will give vouchers at boarding to all customers departing from Hong Kong between 1 September and 15 October 2014. Discounts range from SG$50 off any minimum purchase of SG$280, to SG$100 off any minimum purchase of SG$580. For full promotion details, visit singaporeair.com/hkbeach
Flights from Singapore to Manado and selected destinations are operated by SilkAir, the regional wing of Singapore Airlines.
whitewater starting points include Sonder village and Timbukar village, where you can hire river guides and rafts. Mt. Lokon (1,580m) and Mt. Mahawu (1,311m) are two active volcanoes in the Highlands, which can easily be climbed in the same day. At Mt Mahawu’s peak, which hikers will reach after a 1-hour ascent, you can take in a sweeping vista of Manado Bay and the Moluccan Sea. The Mt. Lokon climb (2 hours) is longer and more exciting climb, involving trekking along the banks of a
Best of
Islands
Mention islands and most people think palm-fringed, sandy beaches. And while we all love a beach holiday, there's so much more to many great islands. It's the very nature of their isolation (as islands) that creates their unique cultures, landscapes and wildlife – in this case, in two very different destinations – idyllic Cape Verde and historic Cyprus.
Santo Antão’s mountainous interior
Cape Verde:
PHOTOS FROM Mickaël T.
Spirit of Saudade Situated 600km off Africa’s Atlantic coast, Cape Verde is arguably the continent’s best-kept secret – as well as one of its most stable, thriving democracies, making it an exotic, welcoming destination. Spread across 4,000sq.km., the archi-pelago’s 10 main islands range from semi-desert to mountainous, with an abundance of pristine beaches and historic colonial-era towns. Lying along major migratory routes, Cape Verde is a critical habitat for sea turtles, and boasts 50% endemic bird species, while among its people, the country's unique geography and history have endowed each island with their own distinctive version of Creole culture, food and music.
Santiago Santiago is the largest of the islands, and home to the capital and transport hub Praia, which despite a modest tourism boom, has managed to keep its Portuguese colonial-era charm and historic architecture. Nearby, the impressive UNESCO-listed Cidade Velha (Old City) is the oldest colonial town in the tropics dating back over 500 years with sites including Nossa Senhora do Rosario (the oldest colonial church in the world), the fortress of Real de Sao Filipe and the whitewashed houses along Rue Banana. Fogo Island Lying 100km out from Praia, and dominated by the massive Pico do Fogo
(2,830m) volcano, the island of Fogo is ideal for trekking and climbing. Rising right out of the sea, the volcano’s lower ridges and valleys are home to numerous towns, including Sao Filipe, with its historic city centre and dozens of colonial mansions. Undoubtedly Fogo’s biggest attraction is the volcano itself. From Sao Filipe, operators offer full-day and overnight trips into the caldera, wher famous Chã das Caldeiras – twin farming villages that have survived in isolation inside the volcano for centuries. While a road connects them with the outside world today, Chã das Caldeiras remains physically remote, a fact that protects the volcano’s rare, endemic wildlife and plants.
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Sal and Boa Vista Due north of Santiago are the barlavento or ‘windward’ islands. Divided into eastern and western clusters of islands, the eastern half comprises the islands of Sal and Boa Vista.
A typical house on Rue Banana in Santiago’s Cidade Velha
Fogo Island’s Pico do Fogo volcano
Now popular for its beaches, prior to the arrival of tourism, the desert island of Sal was better known for its namesake salt (its main product) than anything else. Today its dry climate and sandy shores attract winter beach goers, and especially windsurfers and kiteboarders. Lying 200km northeast of Santiago in the tradewind belt, during the winter season (November-April), Sal sees strong, sustained gusts over 20 knots, making it ideal for kiting. Santo Antao An island on Cape Verde's northwestern tip, Santo Antão is known for its precipitous peaks, dizzyingly high ravines and dwellings that cling onto mountainsides.
Santiago’s interior
Much of the island is unexplored, and its wild rocky interior is ripe for some great hiking and climbing along centuries-old footpaths that criss-cross the island's high mountains and steep valleys. Driving along the few roads that snake their way precariously along the mountains is an exhilarating undertaking – landscapes quickly change from bare and arid peaks to lush green valleys. Two historic towns of Ribeira Grande (the main town) and Paúl make great bases to explore the island, each with its collection of colonial buildings. Santo Antão also has a number of villages that cling onto steep towering seaside cliffs, including the pictur villages of Forminguinhas and Corvo – mostly only accessible on foot via scenic winding stone footpaths. Harbour at San Vicente’s Porto do Sol
Getting There & Around Extensive inter connect Praia with rest of the archipelago; other international gateways with dir rom Europe or the US include Boa Vista and Sal. Self-drive is an ideal way to explore individual islands, with 4WD hires (necessary in places like Fogo, Sao Antão etc.) readily available from US$60/day. What to Eat or Drink The national dish cachupa (a hearty stew of corn, beans and meat) can be found version of the dish. Refried cachupa is also served with eggs at breakfast. The twin villages in Pico do Fogo produce a spicy local wine called manecom. Fogo is also known for its excellent Arabica coffee, while the national drink grogue (similar to sugar cane rum), can be bought direct from small artisan distillers in Santo Antão and Santiago. Where to Stay Depending which island you’re on, options vary greatly from traditional Portuguese-style B&B pousadas, to village homestays in Chã das Caldeiras. Cultural Tip Saudade Cape Verdean culture. Part longing, part nostalgia, saudade can be seen in the country’s distinctive music, which you don’t need to speak Creole (the local dialect of ancient Portuguese) to appreciate. Fun Fact There are more Cape Verdean émigrés overseas than in Cape Verde itself.
Island Hopping As every one of Cape Verde’s islands is diversely different, island-hopping rewards you with something unique on each. The fastest inter-island option via air, with local carrier TAVC of passes at a deep discount. While some islands don’t have airports, all are linked by ferry (boats are of varying age), with the Santiago-Fogo-Brava “Fastferry” being one of the best.
Best of
Islands Agios Neofytos Monastery, Pafos
Cyprus:
PHOTOS FROM Cyprus Tourism Organisation
Steeped in History The third largest island in the Mediterranean, Cyprus is known for its fractured identity – part European and part Asian, it has long been coveted by mainland Greece and Turkey and today, both sides have an almost equal claim on the island. The EU part of Cyprus is one that most visitors will be familiar with; it is here that r, from the ancient archaeological ruins of Paphos to the religious mountain region of Troodos, along with the hedonistic town of Ayia Napa. Known as the 'Island of Aphrodite', Cyprus has 6 very distinct regions. Ammochostos Starting from the east, the Ammochostos region is where the party town Ayia Napa is situated. Away from the clubs and bars, the beaches here are famous for diving while Cape Greco is known for its cliff formations.
Larnaca Moving westward, the ancient Larnaca region has a characteristic palm-lined promenade dotted with cafes. The existence and continued usage of the Hala Sultan mosque and the St Lazarus church – both important ancient sites – prove that both religions are revered here. In addition, the church of Angeloktisti features a rare 6th century Byzantine mosaic of the Virgin and Child. Lemesos (Limassol) To the west is the Lemesos (Limassol) region, home to the island's main port and the centre of its wine industry. The foothills of the Troodos Mountains form a verdant backdrop, with many Krassochoria (wine villages) dotting the hillside. The region is famous for its dry red wines – especially the Commandaria, which is similar to port. consisting of a huge Roman Theatre, and an early Christian basilica.
Church at Palaichori village
© A. Lorenzetto
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Painted icons at a church in Kakopetria
Ruins of Kourion in Lemesos
Byzantine Art Cyprus is a renowned centre for Byzantine Art, which can be found in almost all its churches, ranging from village sheds to grand monasteries. An art of Eastern Orthodox Christians, it’s
© C. Morandi
Tomb of the Kings, Pafos
fancy gold embellishments) depicting scenes and characters from the bible. Though most of the artworks date back to the 10th century, they are still in good condition (many have also been restored to their former glory).
Getting There & Around The main international airport is Larnaca International Airport, which is serviced by several airlines including Emirates, making it the easiest way to get to Cyprus from Hong Kong. What to Eat or Drink Cypriots have a similar diet to the Greeks, with dishes like the souvla (skewered meat re) and kleftiko (lamb slow-cooked in a clay oven). A typical Cypriot dish is halloumi cheese (made of cow and sheep milk) that’s served grilled. Commandaria – the local red wine akin to port – is an iconic local tipple.
© St. Gerardi
Lefkosia (Nicosia) Moving inland to the north, the Lefkosia (Nicosia) region is home to the multi-cultural capital. While the city centre is decidedly modern, the Venetian walled Old Town – where the Green Line cuts the town into the Greek and Turkish sides – showcases many ancient buildings and museums. Troodos The Troodos mountains (rising to almost 2,000m) are renowned for the grand Kykkos monastery and 10 UNESCO-listed Byzantine-era painted churches (dating from 11th century), each featuring Byzantine murals. These churches range from small structures whose rural architectural style is in stark contrast to their highly r monasteries such as that of St John Lampadistis.
In addition, plenty of ancient villages – complete with stone houses and cobbled streets – dot the mountains. Pafos (Paphos) The west of the island is the Paphos (Pafos) region, arguably the most beautiful part of Cyprus. Paphos is a harbour with a medieval fort, beyond which are numerous archaeo-logical gems, including the Tombs of the Kings (underground tombs dating to the Hellenistic and Roman ages) and Kato Pafos, a UNESCO-listed town dotted with ancient Roman-era gems like the Agia Solomoni Catacomb Church and an archaeological park that’s strewn with well-preserved Roman mosaics, a coliseum and a number of stone monuments.
Where to Stay A wide range of hotels – from budget to luxury – are available in Cyprus, with a rather large gap in price between a 3-star and a resort. When visiting Troodos, you can opt to stay at one of many refurbished ancient village homes – Kakopetria has a number of options, including a repurposed mill. Cultural Tip The subject of the Greek-Turkish divide will always be a thorn for most Cypriots, so it’s best to avoid any discussions relating to it. While open hostilities between both sides have been absent for some time, the UN's peacekeeping force still keep a narrow buffer zone (the ‘Green Line’) between the 2 zones in Lefkosia – the capital to both sides. Visitors are allowed to visit the 'occupied side' (a term used by Greek Cypriots for the Turkish side); passports are not stamped, although it's mandatory to have it with you. Fun Fact Cyprus was the only nation in the world to Kosovo followed suit.
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15-17 August
Panasonic 16th Asia Pacific Water Polo Tournament
24 August
SOGO HK Aquathlon Series Race 2 www.aquawiz2000.com
28-31 August
Panasonic 10th Hong Kong Synchronized Swimming Open Competition 2014 www.hkasa.org.hk
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31 August
Diving Competition Series (Part 1)
5-7 September
10th Hong Kong Open Swimming Championships 2014
6 September
Full Moon Night Run
7 September
2014 Aquathon Series - Race 4 www.triathlon.com.hk
20 September
Div.2 (Part 3) LC Competition www.hkasa.org.hk
21 September
Short Course Masters Swimming Competition- Part 1 www.hkasa.org.hk
21 September
The Community Chest – Wheelock Swim for a Million
27 September
Div.3 (Part 3A) LC Competition
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27 28 September The 16th Hong Kong Dragon Boat Championships (SEIKO Timing System) www.hkdba.com.hk
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