2010 Puerto Rico by Susan Hanes

A Week in Puerto Rico April 6 - April 14, 2010

A Week in Puerto Rico April 6 - 14, 2010

Little did I realize, as we landed in San Juan’s Luis Muñoz Marin Airport, that we were beginning a week of such diversity and contrast, contained on Puerto Rico’s 100 mile by 35 mile area. Determined that we did not want simply a beach week, we started by touring the forts of Old San Juan, built over a period of 400 years. We drove through the jungle of El Yunque, crossed over to the pristine beaches of Vieques, climbed into the central mountains along the Ruta Panoramica, strolled along streets of lovingly restored criollo architecture, stayed in 19th century coffee plantations, and visited the surfing capital of Puerto Rico. We tasted mofongo, local seafood, and spit-roasted pig at cafés, kioscos, and cantinas, and sipped Medalla cervezas, piña coladas, and Don Q Gran Añejo. We spent an enlightening week getting to know our Atlantic US territory.

Tuesday, April 6

San Juan

It was hardly worth going to bed last night, as the alarm went off at 3:00. Showers, emptying the dishwasher, winding the clock, making arrangements for a package to be picked up at the front desk: all those last minute chores that make one afraid to cut it any closer. Lucky to find a lonely taxi to take us to the Thompson Center. As we sipped though the empty streets, I realized that this must be the quietest time of night, when the bars have emptied and the early workers have not quite checked in yet. Orange Line to Midway, sharing the quiet carriage with a few early travelers and sleepy shift workers. Once we were at the airport, however, it was business as usual. Long line at security; the longest was the line of “experienced travelers.” I’ll remember that next time. Our AirTran flight to Atlanta was uneventful; I was glad we slipped out before the forecasted thunderstorms. Breakfast in the Atlanta terminal while we waited for our 12:00 flight to San Juan. But a problem with the window defrosters kept us on the tarmac for an hour or so before we returned to the gate and changed to another plane, resulting in a two-hour delay. A little over three hours to San Juan, arriving at 5:30. Quickly retrieved our bags and took a clean taxi along new roads through town to Viejo San Juan, the forts of which have been collectively designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Passed ample evidence of US influence: Starbucks, KFC, Subway, McDonalds, Burger King. Across Plaza de Armas from the Catedral de San Juan Bautista, we stepped out at the Hotel El Convento, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World that is housed within tastefully restored halls of a seventeenth century Carmelite convent. Our room is comfortable with 18-foot ceilings and luxurious bath amenities. While the light was still good, we set out to walk along the bluish cobblestone streets constructed from the ballast of old battleships. From Calle del Sol, we walked east to El Jibatito, a rustic and unpretentious restaurant offering traditional Puerto Rican dishes, where we enjoyed their specialties of oven-baked pork and sweet plantains. Best of all were the best piña coladas imaginable; I had one to start with and a second for dessert. They gave Jake’s dessert specialty, “sludge,” a run for its money. After dinner we continued our walk, passing interesting bars and assorted souvenir and jewelry shops (geared to lure cruise ship passengers), ending at Plaza Colón where we saw men playing dominoes and an old fellow rolling cigars, the one he was smoking sporting an impressive ash at least three inches long. Walked back along Fortazela, passing the 1540 Catedral de San Juan, to the hotel. A man outside was singing sweetly, accompanying himself on his guitar, as we went inside for the night.

Wednesday, April 7

San Juan

Slept well in our comfortable bed; everything is just right in this hotel, from service to location. Walked a short distance to La Bombonera on Calle San Francisco. Opened in 1902, this atmospheric café has a long bar filled with regulars and serves rich mountain coffee with milk from a vintage steamed milk machine. We sat in a retro pink Formica booth and ordered mallorcas, toasted pastries filled with egg, cheese, and bacon and dusted with powdered sugar, that were delicious. Thus fortified, we set out to explore Viejo San Juan, where the Spanish established their first permanent city on the island in 1521. We started by climbing up to Castillo San Cristóbal, part of the San Juan National Historic Site, a collection of 400-year old castles and battlements that are the oldest European-style fortifications in the United States. Our National Park Service senior passes allowed us free entry and we explored the walls and enjoyed the ocean views. We walked down to the harbor where the cruise ships dock, noting that three massive vessels were in port. On the way, passed numerous impressive municipal buildings. Stopped briefly at Casa Don Q for a sample taste of 12-year old rum (really smooth) and continued along the harbor side ramparts, enjoying the bright sun and blue sky. Walked up the attractive Caleta San Juan through the San Juan Gate and found ourselves at Plaza de Armas near our hotel. Stepped inside the cathedral to see the monument containing the remains of Juan Ponce de Leon. Continued along the pleasant streets, passing high-end shops located in colorfully painted buildings trimmed in white. Walked down to the Fortaleza, the oldest governor’s mansion in continuous use in the New World, but found that it was not open to visitors. Stopped for a couple of Medallas at Nono’s, an atmospheric cantina in a colonial building with high ceilings and open doors.

Later, we continued our walking tour to the Iglesia San Jose, the second oldest church in the Americas, but saw that it was closed and undergoing a somewhat unenthusiastic restoration. Continued down to the Cemetery of Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzis, evocatively set adjacent to the ocean and fortified walls. The heavily carved white marble tombs were embellished with angels and covered with detailing. Interestingly, most were identified only with family names. Walked across the Campo del Morro, a broad, featureless plain presently populated by numerous kite-flying families, but designed to expose invading troops to withering fire from the fortress. The fort itself was similar to the other one, with massively thick walls on multiple levels that successfully repelled the Dutch in 1625 and the English in 1797. Leaving the fort, we returned to the Plaza del Quinto, built to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Columbusâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; discovery of the New World. Visited the Museum of the Americas, located on the second floor of the old Spanish barracks. Its three sections were devoted to indigenous tribes, West Africa and the slave trade, and regional folk art. At this point, we could think of nothing better than to return to Nonoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to try their special rum punch. This proved an excellent idea. Later, after a rest at the hotel, we walked down along the Paseo de la Princesa and watched the sunset across the water. Unwisely taking the earlier unsolicited suggestion of a man walking his dog, we sought out the Mojito Restaurant, located near the port where the cruise ships anchor. Predictably, this was a mistake. Noisy and totally lacking in character, the restaurant was filled with tourists and the food was a disappointment. We could not get away fast enough; as we made our way back to the hotel, I could not help but yearn for one of those piĂąa coladas that we had so enjoyed last night.

Thursday, April 8

Vieques

Skipped breakfast and hailed a taxi to the Hilton Caribe where we had arranged for a rental car from Hertz. A four-door Toyota Carolla was waiting for us and we were on our way out of town heading east on the expressway before 9:30. As we sped along, saw proof that the rental agent’s observation was true: in Puerto Rico, there are no fast lanes; consequently cars are constantly changing lanes in an attempt to pass slower vehicles that occupy any lane they wish. We also noticed the proliferation of US-based fast food franchises: McDonalds, Burger King, Subway, Wendy’s, Baskin Robbins, and KFC… it seems that all we could think of have a presence on the island. I seemed strange how things looked familiar and yet different at the same time. In spite of a few missed turns, we made it to El Yunque National Forest in under an hour and a half. Ascended a paved road through the emerald slopes of this sacred mountain, its lush vegetation dripping from morning showers. Stopped along the way to catch the view and photograph numerous waterfalls and pools. The park is obviously popular with the local people, and we saw numerous families hiking and picnicking. Left the park around noon and drove a short distance to Luquillo in order to have lunch at one of the kioscos, the food stalls that line the highway near the beach. They are known throughout the island for their local specialties. After perusing the length of the 60 establishments, we chose La Parilla at #2, a bit more upscale and inviting than the others, where we enjoyed bountiful platters of fresh snapper prepared in a traditional manner with plantains. Washed down with a couple of Medallas, they were wonderful. Finished our coffee by 2:00 and drove the short distance to Jose Aponte de Torre Airport where we parked the car in what we hoped was a secure lot and waited for our 4:00 departure by Vieques Air Link to the nearby island of Vieques. The flight actually left at 4:30, carrying us and five other passengers on a single-engine Cessna 208 for the eight-mile, ten-minute flight. Our pilot was a kindly grandfather-type who glanced back to make sure we were buckled in before scooping us over the water. Once on the other side, we took a publico (shared taxi) for the ten-mile ride across Vieques to the Hacienda Tamarindo, a 19th century plantation house situated on a bluff above the coast. Our room has wooden shutters that let in the cool and comfortable breeze. A rental car, a Suzuki SK4, was waiting for us in the parking lot. After a little nap, we drove across the island to the Atlantic side for dinner at the new W Resort, opened only a few weeks ago. With W’s edgy design and multi-level open dining room, we found the surroundings very pleasant, but we agreed that the service and food needs a little refining before it earns those five stars. Back in our room at the Tamarindo, the tiny island frogs, or coqui, sang us to sleep.

Friday, April 9

Vieques

As we enjoyed our breakfast on the hotel veranda under a 300-year old tamarind tree, a steady drizzle became a downpour. Entertained ourselves by watching Lucinda, the resident parrot, preen and frolic in the rain. By the time we started out to explore the island, the rain clouds had given way to puffs of white and a blue, sunny sky. After a stop at Maritza’s Car Rentals to sign a contract, we drove into Isabel Segundo, the island’s commercial heart. Not much to see there, so we turned west and drove along the Atlantic coast all the way to the western end of the island, a national wildlife refuge. On the way, encountered numerous wild horses along the road and in adjacent fields. There are thousands of them throughout the island; their substantial droppings litter the roads. To us, they seemed rather docile, but a woman at the car rental place warned us about blowing the horn at them, particularly at night. She also told us not to lock the car when we go to the beach and to take our belongings with us; thieves often will break a car window to see if there is anything inside. Following her advice, we parked and walked through thick foliage to find beautiful lonely beaches; single lane bridges carried us over mangrove swamps. Until 2003 much of the island was dominated by the US Navy and remnants of the military presence remain: weed-covered bunkers and ordnance storage buildings dot the landscape, many with the obligatory graffiti. Club Tumby, once a depot of some kind, has become a nightclub; colorful liquor signs line the outside walls and surrounding fence. Retraced our way east and continued south to the other main village, Esperanza, far more inviting with its strip of outdoor bars and restaurants along the beach, filled with laid-back locals and vacationers. At Duffy’s, we sat at the bar and enjoyed piña colatas and grilled grouper sandwiches accented with “Coqui Fire,” the sweet-spicy island hot sauce (no frog parts included). From the bartender, learned about Bili, a local rum that is made only on Vieques using small fruit called quenepas. Were interested in finding some Bili to try, but were told that it is only available when the fruit is in season. Continued our island trek, driving east along the Caribbean coast as far as the wildlife refuge where we could go no further. Stopped along the way to admire pristine beaches tucked within hidden coves: Playa Plata, or Orchid Beach; Blue Beach; the rocky Pirate’s Cove; the magical Pata Prieta or Secret Beach. On the Caribbean side, the sand is fine and white and the water is a deep aquamarine.

Returned to the hotel in the late afternoon for a break before the highlight of our visit to Vieques: an evening tour of one of the world’s most enchanting natural wonders, the bioluminescent bay at Puerto Mosquito. After a short orientation by the guides at Island Adventures, we all piled into a rickety school bus for the twenty-minute ride to the bay, bouncing along deeply rutted tracks as branches scratched the sides of the bus on the narrow trail. At the water’s edge, we loaded onto a barge-like affair, powered by electricity so as not to upset the delicate natural habitat of the dinoflagellates. Microscopic protozoa, these creatures release a chemical when disturbed that causes a luminescence when combined with oxygen. It was amazing to see the glowing trails left by the boat, the fish that were visible in the dark as they skimmed under the water, and most impressive, the light emitted by those of our group who chose to swim. Jake made “light angels” buy waving his arms back and forth and I tired with some small success to capture it with the camera. Although the pictures were not great, the evening was truly memorable. We walked back to the room where Jake showered and we prepared to go back into Esperanza for dinner. Got waylaid looking at locally made jewelry sold in little booths along the street; discovered that the restaurants close at 10:00. Tired and hungry, we returned to our room to pack and prepare for an early departure tomorrow morning.

Saturday, April 10

Ponce

We were pretty efficient and returned the rental car before 8:00; a member of Maritza’s staff dropped us off at the airport and we were able to get seats on the flight leaving at 8:45. Ten minutes later, our twin-engine British-built Norman Islander flew us and three others across the channel to Ceiba’s Torre airport. Had a quick breakfast at the terminal before getting on PR 3 and then 53, heading south. On the way, passed a caravan of honking, painted cars, the passengers hanging out of windows and doors, shouting and waving. Signs painted on the windows said various versions of “Relevo Poy La Vida 2010, Los Exterminadores Guayama.” Stopped in Arroyo, a once-busy port that retains some of its attractive small homes around a central plaza. Of greatest interest was the former customs house that has an amazing entry, framed in colorful ceramic floral designs and crowned with a US shield and a bald eagle that looked startlingly incongruous. As we were walking around the plaza, the same parade of painted, honking cars that we had passed on the highway came through and we waved and photographed them a second time. A short drive further brought us to Guayama. A hundred years ago, this was one of the grandest towns on the island due to the success of the nearby sugar plantations. We were able to park on the central Plaza Cristobal Colón, a wide, tree-shaded square where groups of men were engaged in lively games of dominoes or just sitting on benches. When I asked if I could take a photo of one group, a fellow named Alfredo jumped up and introduced himself, telling us he was a US Navy vet and that we could take all the photos we wished. As we stood there, the same parade of honking cars that we had seen earlier appeared a third time. We walked around the square, noting the powder blue Art Deco theater, the 1874 neo-Romanesque Iglesia San Antonio de Padua, and the beautifully restored museum that looked like a frosted wedding cake. Before leaving town, drove up and down the streets of the historic zone, noting numerous restored clapboard homes. Drove on to Salinas, on the central southern coast, where we planned to have lunch at Ladi’s Place. Were disappointed to find that it had closed for good; just as we were wondering what to do, a salty-looking fellow offered us a couple of suggestions. Located El Balcón del Capitán, and confirming that our guidebook rated it “a worthy alternative,” chose a table overlooking the water where we ordered sangria and fresh fish.

Arroyo

When we got back on the highway, encountered a real gully-washer most of the way into Ponce where we had reservations for the night. Wasted almost an hour looking for the museum of art, only to find that it was closed for renovation (although its graffiti-covered walls looked more like it had simply been abandoned.) We had no problem locating the main Plaza Las Delicias but had trouble finding the side guest entrance to the 1895 Hotel Melia, in spite of its location on the square. As the rain had stopped, we walked around the square, admiring the attractive buildings that surround it. Found it interesting that the beautifully restored facades on many of them stood in contrast to others that were empty or for sale. It seemed as if hard times had suddenly descended on Ponce with no warning. In front of the strange-looking black and red Parque de Bombas, once a firehouse, we watched a wedding party posing for pictures. The groom looked a little too cool in a white suit and hat and giant diamond earrings; the bride’s dress was chartreuse green. The attendants also wore bright colors—red, purple, yellow—and carried colorful fans. We stood across the street and took pictures of the couple as they struck self-conscious poses in front of a white stretch Hummer. Walked through the park, admiring the Fountain of the Lions and the nearby Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Guadalupe before parking ourselves at Lolo’s where we had drinks and dinner at the bar. Back at the Melia, our sleep was interrupted by the sounds of an exuberant prayer meeting in the square and the occasional passing car radio turned up to full blast.

Ponce

Sunday, April 11

Maricao

After a simple breakfast of coffee and rolls on the Melia’s sunny rooftop terrace, toured the historic area of Ponce by foot, taking the opportunity provided by a bright morning to photograph interesting details of the houses along the tree-lined streets near the plaza and to retake some of our rainier shots of yesterday. Retrieved the car and drove a short distance to the ruins of a pre-Taíno culture at Tibes, discovered when floodwaters uncovered the site in 1975. Went through the fascinating little museum, and then Luis Martinez, a friendly staff member who spoke excellent English, showed us around the excavation. The site contains two ceremonial plazas and several ball courts; over 300 skeletons have been found there, as well as countless artifacts. I found the site quite magical, particularly since we were there alone. The site is surrounded by Higüera trees that grow smooth, round, gourd-like fruits on both trunk and branches. These strange growths are not edible, but were used by the ancients as balls or bowls or cups. Luis allowed me to pick one as a souvenir: one advantage of being the only ones there. We bought a small model of a cemi, a figure used by the pre-Taíno people in divination rituals. As we returned to the car, noticed stacks of caged roosters squawking in the back area of a nearby house. We figured that these must be fighters, as cockfighting is both popular and legal in Puerto Rico. Before leaving Ponce, took a quick drive through La Guancha, a large waterfront development of cabanas, playgrounds, and food stalls that we found to be clean and new, but rather sterile. Drove on PR 2, an expressway, along the coast to Yauco, known as “The City of Coffee” and boasting a silly, Dr. Seuss-like sculptured coffee tree with giant red “beans” across from the brightly-painted tourist office on the square. Next to the office is the imposing church; on an adjacent side is the impressive Spanish-Colonial town hall.

Ponce 47

Tibes

Yauco

By noon, we were back on PR 2, driving west to San Germán, Puerto Rico’s second-oldest city and, with Old San Juan, the only one to be placed on the National Register of Historic Places. We ran into a lot of rain on the drive, and it continued sporadically once we parked. One thing that has become obvious it is the variability of the weather on the island. Days that start off in brilliant sun suddenly accumulate clouds of rain and then just as quickly, the sun returns. On the top of a small hill that forms the eastern boundary of the public square we found one of the oldest churches in the Americas. Built in 1606, the Spanish Colonial Porta Coeli, or Heaven’s Gate, is a small and simple structure that is strangely compelling. A wide brick stairway leads up to the church, the steps aged and worn. I found it enchanting. Across the street, a two-story Victorian Gothic house stands in stark contrast, although it too, was a treat to see. In fact, we found the whole town charming. Commanding attention at the head of the Plaza Quinones, the Catedral de San Germán stands adjacent to an antique shop and restaurant. After taking pictures of the church (being careful to avoid overhead wires), we went around to the entrance of the restaurant. Although I was disappointed to learn that the shop had been closed for three years, L’Auxerre looked cozy and inviting and we decided to have a late lunch. Seated together on a wooden settee, we enjoyed salads and fish and glasses of Chardonnay. It was pouring rain when we stepped out the door; made a run for the car and got totally soaked. Stopped back at the Porta Coeli for one more picture and found that the small museum was open. Dedicated to religious art, the museum had a small and moving collection of folk-art sculpture; the interior of the church was warm and inviting, with pleasant views of the green hills in which the town is nestled.

San Germรกn

Back on the highway again, drove through Mayagüez, Puerto Rico’s “third city” and the largest on the west coast. The rain flooded the roadway as we continued north to Rincón, the surfing capital of the island. We had the idea to see the surfers in action, but when we got there, discovered that in spite of the rain, the surf was anything but “up.” Instead, we passed groups of young people gathered under concrete cabanas to socialize and listen to music. We explored the area by car, driving along the coast as far as the Faro de Punta Higüero, a lighthouse built by the Spanish in 1892. The view of the ocean from the flowerfilled garden was made more dramatic by storm clouds that intensified the horizon. As we left, I saw a woman selling jewelry and bought four bangles made of Guayacan, a Puerto Rican wood found only in Cabo Rojo and Barranquitas in the southwest region. Jake liked them so much he sent me back to buy four more. As it was nearing 4:30, it was time to find our way to Maricao, the mountain settlement that is regarded as La Cuidad del Café, the place that the island’s best coffee is grown. Our challenge, however, was to find PR 105, otherwise known as the Ruta Panoramica, where it starts in the heart of downtown Mayagüez. This was no easy task, as we turned up and down street after street, trying to make out any tiny signs we could find. At last we got lucky and by 6:00 were on our way up the winding road through lush, dripping foliage, ascending 1600 feet through the mist to Hacienda Juanita, an old coffee plantation dating from 1834. Our room is simple, and the environment unique. Dinner was served on the terrace overlooking hills covered with profuse vegetation. As I write before bed, the sweet sounds of coqui, birds, and insects make me realize that there is a busy world out there beyond our open window.

Rincรณn

Faro de Punta HigĂźero

Monday, April 12

Jayuya

Had a leisurely morning; breakfast on the veranda consisted of tortillas (really, omelets) and fresh orange juice, and of course, coffee, although were disappointed that it was served in an open metal pitcher and was not very hot. Explored the property, taking pictures of the views and flowers. On the Ruta Panoramica by 10:00, passing through Maricao, which we found somewhat underwhelming. Found staying on the Ruta a challenge, due to the paucity of signage and the constantly changing route numbers. For example: we took PR 105 to Maricao, then 120 south and east, then 366 (which became 365 in places), back to 105, then 128 followed by 135 through Castener, a short stint on 525, 135 again to the outskirts of Adjuntas. Drove along a high ridge, which provided dramatic vistas, both south to the sea and north across a series of emerald peaks. The narrow and winding road (according to Lonely Planet, one of the most winding roads in the world) took us along some of the loveliest scenery imaginable. We drove through dense forests that created canopies over the road, continued along rows of banana palms and banks of wild impatiens, and passed clusters of bamboo and stunning flame trees. At one point, encountered a 40foot high stone tower constructed by the Conservation Corps of America in 1933 that provided access to some of these dramatic views. From Adjuntas we drove north toward Utuado in order to visit the Parque Ceremonial Indigena de Caguana to see the extensive ruins and multiple petroglyphs from the Taino culture. Archeological work at the site began in 1915, but in 1965 it was developed as a park with the addition of native trees such as the ceiba and the Higuero calabash, as well as a remarkable array of flowers like nothing I have ever seen. We spent an enjoyable time walking the grounds and taking pictures. Back by way of Utuado to Jayuya, arriving just as school was out and the afternoon paseo of plaid-clad high school students was starting. Traffic was heavy in the town’s narrow streets. Jake dropped me off at the plaza so that I could take a picture of the church and a giant petroglyph of El Sol that has become the symbol of Jayuya. As I waited for him to circle around and pick me up, noticed that one in three cars had ramped-up sound systems that pumped out tunes at top-decibel level. Finding the Hacienda Gripiñas was not as easy as we naively expected. Followed a narrowing precipitous road until we realized our mistake; eventually found a place to turn around and arrived at the 1853 Hacienda Grapiñas coffee plantation at 4:30. Were delighted with this charming place, once the home of a Spanish nobleman. It is surrounded by acres of coffee trees and nestled under Cerro Punto (4389 feet high and Puerto Rico’s highest peak). Took lots of pictures outside and of the attractive interior. Relaxed with Don Q and cranberry juice on the veranda before a simple dinner of chicken, rice and beans at 6:30. It seems we are the only guests, sharing the place with only the chirping, croaking, buzzing creatures of the night.

Tuesday, April 13

San Juan

After a pleasant breakfast at the hacienda—with hot coffee— departed at 8:45 on PR 144 to 149 through the mountains. Stopped to take a picture of the cemi-shaped museum at Jayuya before leaving town. Saw a beautiful waterfall next to the road, rivaling any we had seen at El Yunque. Joined the expressway at last; it felt good to be off those winding roads, regardless of the spectacular views. Got off on PR 184 for an early lunch at El Rancho Original, one of the many popular pigroasting shacks, known as lechoneras, lining the road to Guavate. The roasting starts early in the morning, and by the time we drove in and parked, a huge pig was already browned on the spit. We placed our order (the meat is sold by the pound) and a fellow with a machete hacked off chunks of pork and mounded it on our plate. Accompanied by orange rice and hot sauce, it was a hearty meal; we ate at a picnic table in the adjacent covered area. Returned to the expressway and reached the San Juan area just after noon. Topped off the tank in preparation for the return of the car, and after a series of frustrating attempts, found the bridge over to Viejo San Juan. Dropped the car off at the Hilton: we had driven 511 miles on the main island (a total of 587 miles with Vieques included). Taxi back to El Convento; our room was not available so we left our bags and did a little shopping. I found two vintage necklaces at a small antique shop called Treasures. Walked down to Casa Don Q where Jake bought what was unanimously recommended to us as the best rum produced in Puerto Rico: Don Q Gran Añejo. Returned to El Jibarito in anticipation of again having their piña colatas—but alas, they were not available! Had to settle for a version made with mango, which I did not like nearly as much, but Jake had two. Returned to Nono’s for another round and a hamburger before heading back to the hotel where we checked into Room 213 again. Packed and organized things for our trip home tomorrow.

Wednesday, April 14

Chicago

Woke up ahead of schedule and decided to go ahead and check out and taxi to the airport for our 11:30 flight. Before going through security, had to have our bags inspected and stamped by USDA so I was glad I had decided to dispose of the Higuero gourd in the room before we packed out. As we waited for our flight to Orlando (and continuing to Chicago), used the time to review the past week. We agreed that Puerto Rico had been a pleasant surprise. We felt a general sense of security and a standard of living equivalent to that on the US mainland. The island is green and hilly with an abundance of forests and protected areas, Were somewhat surprised at how little English is spoken in some areas, even in hotels and restaurants catering to tourists. The feeling we had was that the people are proud to be US citizens as well as Puerto Ricans; we saw no evidence of political instability or anti-Americanism. After living on Guam, I found this to have been an enlightening week, getting to know our other US Territory.

Itinerary Tuesday

Depart CHICAGO, Midway (MDW) AirTran Flight 29 (Boeing 717) at 06:30 Arrive Atlanta, Hartsfield-Jackson International (ATL) at 09:24 Lunch: Pascal’s, Atlanta Airport Depart Atlanta, Hartsfield-Jackson International (ATL) AirTran Flight 3 (Boeing 737) at 14:00 Arrive San Juan, PR, Luis Muñoz Marin International (SJU) at 17:34 (2 hours late) Old San Juan: Plaza de Colón, Calle Fortaleza Dinner: Restaurante El Jibarito El Convento: Room 213 100 Cristo Street, Old San Juan SAN JUAN

Wednesday

Breakfast: La Bombonera Old San Juan: Castillo de San Cristóbal, Casa Don Q, Paseo La Princesa, Puerta de San Juan, Plaza de Armas, Catedral, La Fortaleza, Cemetario Santa Maria, Castillo San Felipe del Morro, Museo de las Americas, Plaza de San Jose Lunch: Nono’s Bar Restaurant Dinner: Mojito’s Café Restaurant El Convento SAN JUAN

Thursday

Hertz Car Rental: Pick up at Caribe Hilton Hotel: Toyota Corolla El Yunque National Forest: El Portal Rain Forest Center, La Coca Falls, Yokahu Tower, Palo Colorado Visitor Center; Luquillo; Ceiba; Vieques: Esperanza Lunch: La Parrilla kiosco, Luquillo Depart Ceiba, Jose Aponte de Torre Airport (JAT) on Vieques Air Link (Cessna 208) at 16:20 Arrive Vieques, Vieques Airport (VQS) at 16:30 Maritza Car Rental: Suzuki SX4 Dinner: miX on the Beach, W Retreat and Spa Hacienda Tamarindo: Room 4 Route 996, km. 4.5 Barrio Puerto Real VIEQUES

101 kilometers/63 miles 79

Friday

Breakfast: Hacienda Tamarindo Vieques: Isabel Segunda, Playa Punta Arenas, Club Tumby and bunkers, Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, Playa de La Chiva, Playa la Plata, Pata Prieta, Area Archeológica Hombre de Puerto Ferro, La Reserva Natural de LaBahia, Bioluminscente Activities: Island Adventures: Bio-Bay Eco tour Lunch: Duffy’s Esperanza Hacienda Tamarindo VIEQUES

Saturday

Total driving on Vieques: 123 ks/76 miles

Depart Vieques, Vieques Airport (VQS) on Vieques Air Link (Britten-Norman BN-2 Islander) at 08:45 Arrive Ceiba, Jose Aponte de Torre Airport (JAT) at 08:55 Breakfast: Jose Aponte de Torre Airport Arroyo: Museo Antigua Aduana; Guayama: Plaza Cristóbal Colón, Playa de Salinas; Coamo: Zona Historica; Ponce: Plaza Las Delicias, Museo Parque de Bombas Lunch: El Balcón del Capitán, Playa de Salina Dinner: Restaurant Lola, Ponce Hotel Melia: Room 215 Plaza Degetau and Calle Cristina PONCE

Sunday

184 ks/ 115 miles

Breakfast: Hotel Melia Ponce: Catedral Nuestra Señora de La Guadalupe, Casa Alcaldia, Casa Armstrong, Casa Wiechers, Museo de la Historia, Teatro La Perla Centro Ceremonial Indigena de Tibes (Guide: Luis Martinez), La Guancha; Yauco: Parque Arturo Lluberas, Plaza Fernando Pacheco de Matos; San Germán: Plazuela de Santo Domingo, Museo Porta Coeli, Plaza Francisco Mariano Quiñones; Rincon: Faro de Punta Higüero; Mayagüez; Ruta Panorámica; Maricao Lunch: Chateaux L’Auxerre, San Germán Dinner: Hacienda Juanita, Maricao Parador La Hacienda Juanita: Room 3 PR 105, km 23.5 MARICAO

219 ks/ 137 miles

Monday

Breakfast: Hacienda Juanita Ruta Panorámica: La Torre de Piedra; Adjuntas; Utuado: Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Caguana; Jayuya Dinner: Hacienda Gripiñas, Jayuya Parador Hacienda Gripiñas: Room 5 PR 527, km 2.5 JAYUYA

Tuesday

136 ks/ 85 miles

Breakfast: Hacienda Gripiñas Jayuya: Museo El Cemí; Ruta Panorámica; Vilalba; Guavate; Old San Juan Lunch: Lechonera El Rancho Original, Guavate Rental car return at Caribe Hilton Hotel Dinner: Restaurante El Jibarito and Nono’s Bar Restaurant, San Juan El Convento: Room 213 100 Cristo Street, Old San Juan SAN JUAN

Wednesday 14

Depart San Juan, PR, Luis Muñoz Marin International (SJU) AirTran Flight 12 (Boeing 737) at 11:10 Arrive Orlando, FL, Orlando International (MCO) at 14:05 (20 minutes early) Lunch: Outback Steakhouse, Orlando Depart Orlando, Orlando International (MCO) on AirTran Flight 824 (Boeing 737) at 17:08 Arrive: CHICAGO, Midway Airport (MDW), at 18:31 (20 minutes early) Total driving on island of Puerto Rico: 818 ks/511 miles Total driving on both islands:

939 ks/ 587 miles