Steppes Traveller Magazine 2018 USA

EDITION ONE 2018

Traveller

BOLIVIA BRAND BOLIVIA

ZIMBABWE PRIDE OF ZIMBABWE

TANZANIA MOUNTAINS OF THE MAASAI

PAPUA NEW GUINEA TRAVEL IN A MAGIMIKS

STEPPES TRAVELLER

ANTARCTIC CRUISE JANUARY 2019 Journey to the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctic Peninsula with Stephen Venables, Wade Davis and Sue Flood.

19 DAYS FROM $18,193 PP

ARCTIC CRUISE JULY 2018 Travel to the Kingdom of the polar bear with Monty Halls and Sue Flood.

12 DAYS FROM $7,793 PP

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To the Ends of the Earth

WHERE WILL YOU DISCOVER NEXT?

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Welcome A HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU.

Today, resolving to change and improve yourself and your life is an almost unavoidable part of the transition to a new year.

The tradition is said to stem from the ancient Babylonians and in spite of this 4,000-year-old history, it is a well-documented fact that most New Year’s resolutions fail. Why? Because they are based on fear, on giving something up.

Fear is short-term and not healthy. If you are giving something up, you need something to replace it with.

Don’t try to lose weight - rather try and improve your health. Joy and pleasure are sustainable.

Fear is not a sustainable motivator. Love is more powerful than fear. Love travel.

Justin Wateridge MANAGING DIRECTOR

ENEWS Have you signed up to receive our e-news? Update your preferences on content - from destination features to opinion pieces- and how often you receive them: www.steppestravel.com/subscribe

NEW WEBSITE We are currently in the discovery phase of creating our new website and we are keen to hear your thoughts. How do you use our website currently and what would like to see? Let us know website@steppestravel.com

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app store. Access all your travel documents, stay up to date with our location specific weather and map feature and upload your photos to use as an online travel journal so that you can share your memories with friends and family.

EVENTS There is nothing like meeting face to face. If you have a small group of travel minded friends and would like one of the Steppes team to meet you to talk about potential holiday plans we would be delighted to host a lunch or dinner.

Find out more about our events by contacting events@steppestravel.com

We now have our own Steppes Travel app available from your

COVER IMAGE: Sepik Sing-Sing, Papua New Guinea | Taken by Jarrod Kyte, Steppes Travel LAYOUT & DESIGN: David Wildish | DartCreative.uk

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Contents 06

TEPPES INSIDER S Our recommendations on the destinations to travel to this year

08

OWNER-RUN PROPERTY

The best owner-run properties

around the world

10 12

TRAVEL INSPIRATION Be inspired and feed your wanderlust Featuring our clients’ photography

EATURE | TANZANIA: F MOUNTAINS OF THE MAASAI On location in the Ngorongoro Crater with Chris Johnston

26 ON SAFARI

Spotlight on our favourite guides in Africa and why you should travel with them

28 FEATURE | ZIMBABWE:

PRIDE OF ZIMBABWE Why guides are so integral to the perfect safari experience by Nadia Shahanaz Hussain

32 FEATURE | PAPUA NEW GUINEA: TRAVEL IN A MAGIMIKS Have you thought about your 10 year Family Travel Plan?

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FEATURE | KYRGYZSTAN,

CHINA AND PAKISTAN:

REVISITING THE SILK ROUTE

A return visit to Pakistan and the Silk

Route to discover this relatively

unexplored region by Paul Craven

38 FEATURE | REPUBLIC OF CONGO:

A FIELD OF FIREFLIES xplore the highlights of an adventure through E this central African nation with Bridget Cohen

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EXPERT INSIGHT: PERU SAFARIS A guided back-roads odyssey through Peru

MULTI-DESTINATION HOLIDAYS

Why just visit one country on your next holiday?

42

EXPERT INSIGHT: SRI LANKA

Gonzalo’s personal highlights of the country

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SPOTLIGHT ON EUROPE Some of our favourite destinations across the pond

22 REMOTE CAMPING

SPOTLIGHT ON SOUTH AMERICA

Where should you be travelling to next?

FEATURE | BOLIVIA: BRAND BOLIVIA

A new perspective on its breath-taking

landscapes by Justin Wateridge An exciting portfolio of luxury camps in stunning locations around the world

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FEATURE | OMAN: THE BEST OF OMAN A classic journey through the country with Charlotte Lawton

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EXPERT-LED WILDLIFE TOURS

Our favourite upcoming wildlife trips

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EXPERT-LED CULTURAL TOURS

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Steppes Insider OUR TEAM SHARE THEIR INSIDER KNOWLEDGE ON WHERE TO TRAVEL TO IN THE NEXT YEAR

SALLY WALTERS EURASIA TEAM INDONESIA

NEW ZEALAND

Indonesia is somewhere that springs to mind for anything from families, honeymoons to the elusive mix of beach, culture and wildlife in one trip.

We’ve recently seen an increase in interest in New Zealand the country offers exceptional wildlife, adventure, self-drive and gourmet holidays. Why now? Following the earthquake, Highway 1 is scheduled to re-open before the end of the year.

Travel in our summer months to get the best of the weather and book well in advance to get the competitive airfares. Insider tip – treat yourself to a private boat charter to see the best of Komodo National Park and escape the busiest bays and coves.

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In mid-2018, the stunning Blenheim to Kaikoura line on the Pacific Coastal train, recommences.

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ROB GARDINER AFRICA TEAM RWANDA

MADAGASCAR

For a small country, Rwanda has a lot going on. Last year, Akagera National Park announced the return of rhinos. This, coupled with the reintroduction of lions three years ago, means that the park is now home to the iconic Big Five. And yet this development is just one of many in fast-paced Rwanda. Bisate Lodge opened in 2017, to rave reviews, whilst at least two other five-star lodges will open in Volcanoes National Park this year.

Home to a natural world as magical and diverse as the people, Madagascar is a confusing, fascinating and exciting country.

Here, chameleons change colour in front of your eyes, lemurs dance through treetops, baobabs loom over paddy fields and whales calve off white beaches. And amongst this wealth of natural beauty hide pirates’ tombs, celebrations of the dead and whispered superstitions. A holiday to Madagascar will not fail to deliver a truly enchanted experience for adults and children alike.

In short, Rwanda is no longer just about gorillas; it offers so much more.

LUCY HAYWARD AMERICAS TEAM COSTA RICA

CANADA

Costa Rica is one of those special places that people always speak fondly of and return to time and time again.

We have seen a huge increase in people travelling to Canada in 2017, in fact the numbers have doubled. The word is getting out that this is one of the world’s best wildlife destinations.

New this year are a series of walks in the Corcovado National Park, led by ex-miners and poachers. Steppes is working with this community-based project to help the local community benefit from tourism. In 2017, Costa Rica operated almost entirely on renewable energy and have just announced they aim to have banned single-use plastics by 2021.

Opening in 2018 is Grizzly Bay Glamping Lodge, the first floating lodge in the heart of grizzly country. Another new thing we are excited about is the high-end yacht, the SV Island Solitude, launching in 2018 and sailing the islands of Haida Gwai.

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Owner-Run Properties

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ee our selected portfolio of owner-run properties around the world, favouring the smaller boutique hotels that exude character and a personal touch.

Staying in one of these properties enables you to have a more authentic experience of the culture and lifestyle of a destination whilst becoming your home away from home.

AFRICA: LEWA WILDERNESS, KENYA The Craig family have been entertaining visitors at their home, Lewa Wilderness, for the last 30 years.

This beautiful main lodge lies within the renowned Lewa Conservancy, famous for its black rhinos.

Six days from $3,950 pp, excluding international flights Why? The lodge’s banana-yellow biplane is piloted by Will Craig himself and affords the best views of Lewa.

MADAGASCAR: MASOALA FOREST LODGE In a secluded sandy cove, surrounded by forests full of wildlife, Masoala Forest Lodge offers the best of both jungle and beach. It was this remarkable location that inspired owners Maria and Pierre to make it their home.

Seven days from $4,495 pp, excluding international flights Why? The hosts’ sense of adventure is reflected in the activities, which include snorkelling and sea kayaking.

SRI LANKA: PRINCE OF GALLE A beautifully restored centenarian House, the rooms are charming. The suite on the top floor has a divine little terrace and views of the Indian Ocean.

14 day holiday to Sri Lanka including a four night 14 day holiday to Sri Lanka including a four night 14 day holiday to Sri Lanka including a four night stay at the Prince of Galle from $4,160 pp, excluding international flights Why? Charming and in tune with the spirit of Galle - respecting its heritage and traditions - and said by some to serve the best iced tea in Sri Lanka.

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NEW ZEALAND: BAY OF MANY COVES Only accessible by water or helicopter, Bay of Many Coves is tucked away in a magical location, on the water’s edge amidst the winding waterways of the Marlborough Sounds. Spend days paddle-boarding, kayaking or searching for waterfalls and glow worms within the gardens and 52 hectares of native bushland surrounding the property.

14 day holiday to New Zealand including a three night stay at the Bay of Many Coves and other luxury lodges from $8,895 pp, excluding international flights Why? Murray and Elaine make you feel totally at home and take as much delight in seeing orcas swimming off the jetty as you do.

INDIA: SHAHPURA BAGH This wonderfully relaxing garden estate remains the home of the Shahpura Family. It is brilliantly placed to provide a perfectly peaceful stop when travelling between Jaipur and Jodhpur. Cycling round the lakes, birdwatching, jeep safaris, picnicking and visiting the village are perfect ways to while away a day.

14 day holiday to India including a three night stay at the Shahpura Bagh from $5,830 pp, excluding international flights Why? Shahpura Bagh gives you an insight to a lesser seen India with private visits to their family fort and evening dinners with tales of life in this romantic part of India.

COSTA RICA: PACUARE LODGE Pacuare Lodge delivers time and time again. Beautifully constructed, Pacuare Lodge has been a project of passion over many years for its owners Roberto and Luz. 15 day holiday to Costa Rica including a three night stay at Pacuare Lodge from $3,065 pp, excluding international flights Why? Exquisite taste, fantastic food, fine wines. There is no compromise on quality, yet you are in the middle of a Costa Rican jungle.

ALASKA: ULTIMA THULE Beautiful property in the Wrangell-St Elias National Park, literally in the middle of nowhere. Owned and run by the Claus family, three generations have grown up here with 13 million acres of wilderness as their backyard. John Claus settled at the property in 1958 and was the first human to settle in the valley.

16 day holiday to Alaska including a three night stay at Ultima Thule Lodge from $11,535 pp, excluding international flights Why? Being 160 kilometres from the nearest road, the Claus family were all raised in the cockpit of bush planes. The flying excursions are included and very much part of the experience – the chances are you will set foot on land no-one has ever done so before.

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Travel Inspiration

IN A WORLD WHERE WE CONSUME SO MUCH MEDIA, WHERE DOES OUR TRAVEL INSPIRATION COME FROM?

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here are some classic travel books - Road to Oxiana (Byron), A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush (Newby), Arabian Sands (Thesiger), West with the Night (Markham), Venice (Morris) and Full Tilt (Murphy). The list of authors is extensive - from Graham Greene to Ernest Hemingway, from Jack Kerouac to Hunter S Thompson, from Laurie Lee to Norman Lewis and from John Steinbeck to Patrick Leigh Fermor.

But these are books and authors of 50 plus years ago. Trying to find good travel books written in the last 10 years is harder. Wild Coast (Gimlette), To a Mountain in Tibet (Thubron) and The Old Ways (Macfarlane) are just a handful of examples. Is this a reflection on us and our evolving taste? Or more of our dwindling attention span? Or is it that travel books are simply not being commissioned in the way that they once were, due to the profusion of other types of books and media in general?

Yet the past 10 years have heralded some powerful autobiographical books about personal tragedy and experiences

– Life and Death in Shanghai (Cheng), Fire under the Snow (Gyatso), Zanzibar Chest (Hartley) and The Worst Journey in the World (Cherry-Garrard). There are also some great fictional novels based in countries – The Power of One (South Africa), Cutting for Stone (Ethiopia), Shantaram (India), This Thing of Darkness (southern South America), Shadow of the Wind (Barcelona) and The Catastrophist (Congo). Have these then stolen a march on the wanderings of the travel writers of old?

Is it that we are reading more travel articles in magazines, online and in weekend supplements? Over the past few years, the following stand out in my memory: Anthony Sattin on Iran, Peter Hughes on Syria, Stanley Stewart on swimming with orcas in Norway and Sophy Roberts on travelling in Papua New Guinea. Perhaps so, but sadly travel editors have succumbed to litany and lists over inspiring prose, so that such articles are few and far between.

So how else do we find our inspiration?

Undoubtedly wildlife documentaries lead

to a spike in interest – the recent and excellent Blue Planet II being a case in point. TV personalities also manage to get us to sit up from our sofas and want to find out more about a destination or region. Sue Perkins’s programme on the Ganges resulted in at least one holiday booking and the much-loved Simon Reeve’s recent series on Russia led to a number of enquiries. At our recent festival at the RGS, Steve Backshall so inspired, enthused and engaged the next generation of travellers. The Royal Geographical Society say that they have never seen so many young people at the RGS. High praise indeed.

The most powerful source of inspiration has to be the drug of travel itself. Travel inspires me to travel. I find it to be a never-ending cycle – the more I travel, the more I want to travel. The learning, the understanding, the appreciating, the thrill, the experience, the humility. That is what fuels my curiosity. Keep travelling.

By Justin Wateridge

LOOK OUT FOR...

BOOK SCRAPS OF WOOL An anthology of travel writing excerpts that epitomises the inspiration for a group of some well known travellers and authors to choose travel as a way of life.

Compiled and published

by Bill Colegrave.

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EXHIBITION WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR The acclaimed Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition premiered at the Natural History Museum and can also be seen around the UK until December 2018.

The awards capture the imagination of thousands, who collectively

create a stunning and innovative series of images championing flora and fauna at its best whilst importantly highlighting the threats they face.

Images of note are Justin Hofman’s capture of a seahorse clutching a cotton wool bud in Indonesia’s polluted sea water and Brent Stirton’s Memorial to a Species, which frames a recently shot and dehorned black rhino in South Africa’s Hluhluwe Imfolozi Game Reserve.

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CLIENT PHOTOS

INDIA: DAVID & SHEILA BROWN

USA: DAVID & SHEILA BROWN

CAMBODIA: DAPHNE BURMAN

BOTSWANA: LINDSEY MUNRO

FILM TAWAI by Bruce Parry

CLIENT PHOTOS

In this dreamy, philosophical and sociological look at life, explorer Bruce Parry travels the world to learn from people living lives very different to our own.

We are always keen to see photographs of your travel get in touch with us or share on social media using #MySteppes

From the jungles of Malaysia to the tributaries of the Amazon, TAWAI is a quest for reconnection.

WE WOULD LOVE TO FEATURE YOUR IMAGES IN OUR NEXT ISSUE.

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Mountains of the Maasai CHRIS JOHNSTON | TANZANIA

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y Maasai guide, Shinoi, turned to me “God lives here.’’ he said matter of factly. Tall and sinewy, wrapped in bright blue and purple shuka cloth with a rungu club slung over his shoulder, he looks every inch the Maasai warrior. Standing next to him, high up on the ridge of the Olmoti Volcano and looking out across Tanzania’s crater highlands, it’s difficult to disagree. Far-off mountain peaks are almost obscured by

cloud, the lush valley below dotted with yellow flowers and marbled with thin streams flashing silver in the sunlight.

In the distance, smoke rises from clusters of Maasai manyattas, traditional settlements, as brightly dressed herders lead their cattle across the plains.

Places are often defined by their geology and people, and the Ngorongoro Crater is a perfect example. The name itself

is believed to derive from the Maasai word for cowbell, a gentle, hollow rattle that is constantly heard in these hills.

Layer upon layer of preconceptions have been placed on the Maasai, that they are both familiar and elusive. As a result, it’s sometimes difficult to see beyond the hackneyed image of one of the world’s most recognisable tribes. Their situation is complex, revered by outsiders but still

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maligned by the Tanzanian government who regard them as primitive. The Maasai in this area are proud of their distinction, an identity sharpened against an increasingly homogenised Africa.

The crater highlands are located within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA) that protects the landscapes of three immense dormant volcanoes, including Ol Doinyo Lengai – the Maasai’s “Mountain of God”. Those who make their life here revere the region’s heritage, and it is one of the few places remaining where they can carry on with their traditional lifestyles in relative peace.

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Simply driving up into the crater is incredible. I negotiate forested slopes, catching a glimpse of a large male elephant, half-hidden in the shadows, and pausing frequently to take in sweeping views of the valley below before reaching the crest of the caldera, where the crater floor opens up before me. Entering what many would agree is the most spectacular wildlife arena on the planet, I see verdant green plains dotted with game, enclosed by a crater wall some 600 metres high. Pink clouds of flamingos take flight as I drive slowly into the lemai forests, where rhinos and leopards hide among the fever trees.

In Tarangire National Park, four hours to the south, hundred-strong elephant herds walk in the shadow of towering baobabs, and quartz mountains shimmer in the setting sun. In the Serengeti, you can hear the rumble of millions of hooves crossing the open plains while predators stalk softly through the long grass. Both settings are a photographer’s dream, but it is the highland region that dazzles me most. I find it almost unbelievable that habitat as rich and untouched as this can

be found in such a well-known area. I’ve been lucky enough to explore much of Africa over the last 20 years, but some places can still effortlessly take my breath away.

My base while I am here is The Highlands, a pioneering luxury eco-lodge perched on the slopes of Olmoti. Just 45 minutes from the crater along a rugged dirt track, the camp offers the chance to experience Ngorongoro and its surrounds from a much broader perspective. The road was built to this lodge and here alone. There is no other way in or out, and whilst the NCA have promised to improve the surface, for now it’s a bumpy journey. There are no passing vehicles and no tourists; only the Maasai, their cattle and the magnificent views.

With just a handful of cleverly designed contemporary suites, The Highlands is perfect for roaming more remote parts of the region, following ancient Maasai trails through stunning scenery. A visit to Ngorongoro is of course mandatory, but I also spend several days climbing volcanoes, where flamingos wade through hidden lakes,

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and trekking through forests of mist and moss, accompanied by the scent of wild mint and lavender that fills the damp air. At night, I return to camp to be rejuvenated by delicious home-cooked meals and wood burning stoves, served up with lively and engaging conversation by the all-Tanzanian staff.

This is another area where the camp also strives to make a difference. “Engaging with communities here is a priority for us.”

Brenda, one of the camp managers, tells me.

At just 22, she is brimming with confidence, motivated to make the very most of the opportunity running the camp has afforded her. She explains that through the camp’s charitable arm, they have been able to set up scholarships and establish lasting relationships with local people, improving livelihoods and conserving wildlife in a region that is both economically and ecologically sensitive.

The conservation issues are tangled. The region is managed by the NCA, who must consider the needs of both the Maasai and the wildlife here. Politics are inevitable and the camp treads a fine line, helping to provide

solutions for communities, government and wildlife. Brenda admits there are always challenges, but they add another dimension to an already fascinating place.

While the lodge is supremely comfortable, the surroundings are a very different matter.

In the hills where I walk – accompanied by one of the Tanzanian camp guides, of course - the terrain is harsh, leopards prowl and hyenas call hauntingly at night. I have a very close encounter with three buffalos whilst walking back to my tent after dinner one night. Even the stoic askari guards look startled, in spite of themselves.

On my final day, I wake at sunrise and step outside into the cold, sharp air. Cowbells sound in the distance and I can see fires being lit as the Maasai begin their day.

The mountains are blue and purple in the dawn light, reflecting the colours of the shukas. This landscape and the lives of its people seem intertwined.

In the wild highlands, the Maasai have everything they need. Feed for the cattle, wide open pastures and – perhaps

most importantly – the chance to be themselves. The air is clearer, the colours sharper, the light lends everything a greater clarity. Personally, I feel as though all my preconceptions have been stripped away.

For many people here, life goes on much as it has for centuries, and the camp wants to keep it that way. The local culture is colourful, intriguing and wonderfully accessible. Yet in an effort to preserve an authentic, nonexploitative experience, photography is banned. For me, that is often the hardest part, as I can bring home only my own fallible memories of the Maasai. But it’s also reassuring in a way to know that nothing of the magic of this place can be taken away.

TANZANIA 10 days on safari in northern Tanzania from $9,050 pp, excluding international flights

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Peru Safaris OUR EXPERT ON THE GROUND PAUL BOARDMAN | PERU

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achu Picchu is one of the world’s most significant archaeological sites, and given it’s set in such incredible scenery, it’s easy to see why Machu Picchu is a “must do” experience. But what are the alternatives to making a beeline straight for Cusco, and what is the best way to get a feel for the real Peru and away from the crowds?

Exploring by self-driven 4x4 vehicle gives you unprecedented access to a more authentic Peru, its people, and its landscapes. You can reach remote locations that other travellers can only dream about. What’s more you can experience the desert, the Andes and the Amazon, all in one epic adventure that goes far beyond the usual Peruvian highlights, and immerses you in local cultures, festivals, wildlife and food.

However self-driving Peru brings challenges.

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Maps can be rudimentary, driving standards and roads are frequently difficult, and local knowledge here is everything. That’s why we recommend an expertly guided small group or private tour, with a guide/ safety vehicle travelling alongside.

These tours avoid using generic hotels and instead serve up an eclectic mix of mountain lodges, rustic haciendas, and luxurious properties. They take in some of the continent’s most spectacular and challenging roads, occasionally reaching heights that exceed Everest base camp.

Self-drive Peru tours provide a full-on experience from start to finish, but if you want to see the real Peru, they deliver in spades. Within the stunning, remote highland jungle landscape of the northern provinces is the pre-Inca stone fortress

of Kuelap. A new, largely untouched route heads north from Lima, via some of South America’s tallest peaks along the Cordillera Blanca and its turquoise lagoons. Eventually arriving via sinuous tracks in the steamy jungles of Kuelap, it culminates at the world’s second highest falls at Gocta. The trip returns via the desert coast, taking in some of Peru’s most significant ancient sites such as Chimu, and the 5000-year old Caral (the oldest city in the Americas).

If wildlife is more your thing, then some of

PERU SAFARIS 17 days 4WD Adventure in Peru from $4,485 pp, excluding international flights

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the planet’s most biodiverse destinations beckon in Peru, as our vehicles take the stunning track down from the Andes around Cusco, into the virgin jungle rainforest of Manu Reserve. Here you trade your 4x4 for a motorized canoe

going down the Madre de Dios river past land occupied by remote tribes, and headed into the realm of the jaguar.

Steppes Travel are now offering these exciting 4x4 self- drive options in Peru,

with friendly, professional British guides, very small group or private options, and superb expedition vehicles and equipment, to ensure your trip to Peru is no ordinary adventure. Take the road even less travelled.

JOIN US IN LONDON DESTINATIONS: The Holiday and Travel Show (1 - 4 February 2018) to experience the 4x4 for yourself.

Get in touch if you would like complimentary tickets by emailing EVENTS@STEPPESTRAVEL.COM. WWW.STEPPESTRAVEL.COM | EDITION ONE 2018 | 17

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Brand Bolivia JUSTIN WATERIDGE | BOLIVIA

T

he immigration officer smiled welcomingly, stamped my passport and waved me into his country, more interested in the music which was blaring out of his phone. This lowkey and unassuming start to my short stay in Bolivia in no way prepared me for the heights that I was to scale.

Bolivia is a rougher place to travel than its southern neighbor Chile, but offers the most authentic South American experience, with the highest proportion of indigenous people, a strong traditional culture and defies its

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stereotype of being a high Andean nation – 60% of Bolivia is in the Amazon.

Having just crossed from northern Chile - Chile and Bolivia have maintained only consular relations since 1978, when territorial negotiations failed and Bolivia decided to sever diplomatic relations with Chile – I was not in the Amazon but what are known as the southern deserts of Bolivia. In particular, the mind-blowing Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve.

It is breathtaking, in part due to the altitude – the air is that much thinner at 4,500 metres – but in large part to

the scenery. It is stunning, whether the sheer size and scale of the landscape or the texture of the colours, the subtle and variegated hues – nature at its finest.

A palette of colours as the yellow of the tufty ‘paja brava’ grass, growing in clumps shaped like oversized burrs, and the bright green of llareta contrasted with the softer hues of yellow, ochre, brown, red and pink dramatically offset by the white of the snow and the intense dazzling blue of the sky. It is a panoramic paradise every which way you turn and I am hugely thankful for digital photography as I

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ask to stop, the pumice clinks underfoot and I take yet another brilliant image.

Dali Desert is well-named with its surreal rocks dotting a huge mountain of sand. Arbol de Piedra, an intriguing forest of stones eroded by the elements over millennia into bizarre shapes and structures. Laguna Colorada is out of this world with its vivid red contrasting so brilliantly with the white of the baurex. In spite of its sulphurous smells, Laguna Hediendo is delightful with its shrill whistling flamingoes as they tiptoe through the mud.

Sol de MaĹˆana is rustic and natural with no tourist hordes or boards, except for one sign warning not to go to close to the fumaroles. Bewitched by the colours and the bubbling of the mud, I step too close in search of that perfect image and my left foot sinks into soft boiling mud. I extract it hastily with a squelch the mud caking my shoe in a grey gloop and scalding my foot in the process.

We barely saw another car the whole day. Bolivia has a population of 10 million and thus with an area of one million square kilometres - five times the size of

the UK - it is one of the most sparsely populated countries in the world. That was so apparent in the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve where we saw no sign of human habitation. Only a few hardy creatures eking out an existence that looked like characters from Alice in Wonderland curious and befitting of the otherworldly nature of this bewitching landscape.

A terrified viscacha, a large rabbit-like rodent with a long tail that and fabulously flamboyant whiskers. Pouting llamas with ribbons tied to their ears. By the road, herds of vicunas, dainty camelids

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with elongated necks, browse unperturbed, their coats of a fur so fine and soft that would provide the chic of Fifth Avenue in Manhattan with a $25,000 coat of their own.

I have never seen landscapes that made me feel more keenly aware of the geography, geology and beauty of the planet.

In comparison I felt a little underwhelmed by my initial impression of one of South America’s undoubted highlights, Salar de Uyuni. This was in no small part due to the town of Uyuni, a downtrodden town of neglected brick buildings, that has bequeathed its name to the world’s largest salt flats that sit at a lofty 3,653 metres 20 | EDITION ONE 2018 | 855-562-7452

and blanket an amazing 10,000 square kilometres. The flats were part of a prehistoric salt-lake, which once covered most of southwest Bolivia. When it dried up, it left a couple of seasonal puddles and several salt pans, including the Salar de Uyuni. It is covered by a few metres of salt crust, which has an extraordinary flatness with an average elevation of only one metre over the entire area of the Salar. The crust serves as a source of salt and covers a pool of brine, which is exceptionally rich in lithium, containing 60% of the world’s known lithium reserves.

However, any sense of anticlimax was quickly dispelled once on the flats. Speeding across the lake at 110kmph without the slightest

bump was invigorating. The scene before me – an unbroken line of the horizon, a minimalist canvas of white and blue - was astonishingly beautiful. The exceptional flatness of the surface, the limitlessness of the panorama and the intensity of the light gave the surreal illusion, the dreamlike quality of driving over the sky.

In one sense the brightness, the whiteness, the shimmering were relentless and mesmerizing. In another, the difficulty of getting a feel for distance and the lack of sense of perspective were soporific.

And that was before being fed.

Lunch was a whacky event. Dozens of 4x4s

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parked around Incahuasi, a remote stony desert island filled with cacti as opposed to palm trees, each setting out their stall of tables and umbrellas. The multi-coloured beach parasols providing their lunch patrons with much needed shade from the dazzle of the salt. My lunch was a conjured-up feast of quinoa, salad and roast llama. It was a suitably zany menu for the setting, although – and this is no lie – it could have done with a bit of salt, and Don Simon, my usually dependable driver, did not have any.

Salar de Uyuni is said to contain around 10 billion tonnes of salt, of which only 25,000 tonnes are extracted each year. It is back-breaking work for not much reward

as witnessed by a desolate figure carving bricks from the salt which he sells for construction for $1 each. Or in the small town of Colchani, where cholita, Bolivian women dressed in local garb of pleated skirts, colourful aprons, battered bowler hats and long black plaits, sell small bags of salt for virtually nothing – 25kg of salt costs $1.

After lunch we drove to the charming small stone village of Chentani on the edge of the lake. Picturesquely set under a volcano with a delightfully pretty campanile, Chentani gave me a sense of perspective staring back at the salt flats, the sense that I was overlooking a white, calm sea. On the far shore, I could just make out the dark silhouette of the Andes.

In the flattering light of the late afternoon sun, I step out Don Simon’s 4x4 and wander out onto the flats. The silence and stillness were uplifting but this pales into insignificance with the shimmering brilliance of the reflected light. It was bizarre and wonderful and I had the impression that I was floating on air, in some form of heavenly dream.

BOLIVIA 16 days Highlights of Bolivia from $4,515 pp, excluding international flights

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ver the next three years (from 2018-2020) expect to see the emergence of pop-up, luxury camps in some of the world’s most remote locations. In 2019, look out for pop-up luxury camps in Greenland, Antarctica and The Kimberleys, while in 2020 there is a spectacular camp planned for Lake Baikal.

WHAT IS ALL THE FUSS ABOUT? • Minimal environmental impact • Pop-up camps allow for exploration of remote places where decent accommodation options are limited • A feeling of being at one with nature with only a piece of canvass between you and the outside world • Wake up to some of the world’s most exceptional views • Camps are normally located miles away from nearest population hubs so expect peace and tranquillity • Remote means no light pollution so the night skies are extraordinary • Beautifully appointed camps using traditional fabrics and artefacts to create an authentic, cosy and indulgent atmosphere • Attention to detail is exceptional with no corners cut and no expense spared.

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ZIMBABWE: GONAREZHOU BUSH CAMP

MONGOLIA 360

This simple tented camp is bush camping it its best. Mobile in nature, it is set up deep within Gonarezhou National Park – an area of wilderness that attracts few visitors, despite its beautiful landscapes. The camp is taken out exclusively and hosted by Ant Kaschula, a Zimbabwean guide with incredible experience and an in-depth knowledge of the park.

Experience the extraordinary wildlife and landscape of western Mongolia, staying in private ger camps in the Altai Mountains, encountering snow leopards and saiga antelope. This region is also home to Mongolia’s most fascinating and diverse ethnic groups: the Kazakhs with their hunting eagles and the shamanist Tuvans.

Why? The camp’s Meru tents offer an incredibly comfortable base, located amidst total wilderness. This, coupled with Ant’s fantastic guiding, allow you to really immerse yourself into Gonarezhou’s environment.

Why? Waking up in the middle of this timeless landscape means no time is wasted on long arduous journeys. The sense of connection with the land and the people is palpable.

BOLIVIA & CHILE Travel from La Paz to San Pedro de Atacama staying in luxury pop-up camps, skirting around Bolivia’s highest peak, Sajama and traversing the startling Salar de Uyuni before reaching Chile’s Valley of the Moon.

Sourced for the right altitude and climate, these tented suites offer the comfort of a hotel room with a private bathroom, comfortable bedding, interior decoration and proper heating when needed.

Why? Waking up to the seemingly endless view across the Salar de Uyuni has to be the perfect start to anybody’s day on a South America adventure.

INDIA: NOMADIC CAMPING THROUGH CENTRAL INDIA WITH KAAFILA Kaafila is a semi nomadic, eco sensitive camp that accommodates up to eight people, in four tents, available for exclusive use only.

Sheltering amongst the jungle covered hills and picturesque valleys of Central India are great brooding forts, well preserved medieval cities and a rich variety of wildlife.

Best of all - virtually all of these treasures are unknown and safe from ‘development’, set in some of the most magnificent scenery in all of the subcontinent.

Why?The luxurious tents and expert guides of Kaafila will allow a glimpse of an India that is fast being submerged.

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Remote Camping

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The best of Oman CHARLOTTE LAWTON | OMAN

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fter a very easy and comfortable seven-hour flight direct from London Heathrow, I arrived at Muscat International Airport where I met my smiling Omani Guide, Kase, immaculately dressed in a crisp, floor length gown of white cotton. As we made our way outside, what struck me immediately was the calm in the airport. People here go about their business in a gentle, quiet manner. There’s no barrage of noise or jostling, and there’s certainly no staring.

The terrain outside the main population centres is not conducive to easy living, with vast, formidable mountain ranges and huge swathes of desert covering most of the country. But looking around Muscat, you can see this is a country on the rise. Development and investment is apparent on every side, with the Sultan investing huge amounts of money in his people and the infrastructure.

Oman has slipped into a higher gear within a very short space of time. The people here call it the ‘bomb’. In the early 1970s, Shell discovered massive oil resources, large gold deposits were mined and King Sultan Qaboos overthrew his father, forming a new vision for the people of Oman. I quizzed my guide about social care, the health service, the

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education system, employment, politics – it all sounded too good to be true but wherever we went and whoever we met seemed extremely happy with king and country.

I found Muscat to be a fun, easy place to explore. High on my list for sightseeing were the magnificent Grand Mosque and Opera House. Exploring further afield, we headed into the Jebel Akhdar, part of the mighty Hajar Mountains, a huge mountain range that rises to the highest point, Jebel Shams, at 3000 metres. We drove for a few hours along wide, empty roads that are exceptionally well-maintained, snaking gently upward through the range, to reach the ancient fort town of Nizwa.

The scenery here is austere and dramatic, with green oases, moist enough to allow the growth of shrubs, trees, and support agriculture. This area is famous for its rose water, pomegranates, walnuts, apricots, grapes, and peaches. What water does fall is harvested by ingenious falaj irrigation systems, designed by mountain dwellers who have lived in the region for hundreds of years.

Walking through these small, ancient villages (mostly derelict and empty) is fascinating, and profoundly illustrates the realities of

life in such an unforgiving environment.

Nizwa was formerly the capital of Oman, and is one of the country’s oldest cities. Once the centre of trade, religion, education, and art, it is still a prosperous, buzzing city with a superb souk at its heart. Visit on a Friday for the full Nizwa experience, when traders from all over the region come to sell their livestock, fish, and vegetables. Old family-run shops display pottery, rifles and other weaponry, jewellery, silver, and spices. If you’re travelling with kids then I also recommend a visit to Nizwa Fort, a prominent structure with a circular gunnery, expansive courtyards, and ominous ‘murder holes’ for deterring potential invaders. Climbing to the top is well worth the effort to admire the view and grasp that this was the best way to escape most of the crowds during peak season.

Leaving the mountains behind us, we headed back to the coast, but ensured we left time for a diversion through the Omani desert known as Wahiba Sands. You could easily spend days in this region - it is exceptionally beautiful, tranquil to the point of silence, and the star-filled skies are spectacular. Further into the desert you can stay at a private tented camp, hidden amongst the dunes. We

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visited a few established fixed camps, which offered all the comforts of luxury camping, though the atmosphere was a little different from the splendid isolation we’d just left. For the adventurous, consider taking a jeep ride across untouched dunes and past herds of wild camels. I was handed a sandboard, which zipped down the dunes at a thrilling pace As darkness fell, an epic day came to an end around the crackling campfire, the air filled with the aromas of an Arabian barbecue.

Reaching the coast again, I spent a few nights at several utterly blissful beach hotels (and Oman has these in spades, no pun intended).

If you’re looking for a really good value option then the Shangri La Al Waha is situated on a long white sand beach, where the water is calm and safe to swim, and simply teeming with colourful fish. Turtles nest in numbers matched by no other country on the planet, and whales and dolphins are a common sight in the distance. For an alternative, it’s got to be the Anantara Salalah (a short flight south from Muscat to the Dhofar region).

Exceptional staff and service, food to die for and a huge swimming pool leading to an expanse of beach. As my flight back to London took off, the tinge of sadness I felt on leaving was eased in the knowledge that I’ll soon be back, and with the kids in tow. If they find it anywhere as uplifting and refreshing as I did, it will be a family holiday to remember for a long time.

OMAN 14 day holiday to Oman from $3,880 pp, excluding international flights

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On Safari

TRAVEL WITH A GUIDE NOT A GUIDEBOOK

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uides are the foundation of a great African safari. Consistently, we hear how a guide has transformed a holiday, whether due to their infectious personality or their remarkable knowledge of the bush. Despite this, guides rarely receive the recognition

they deserve. Therefore, we want to highlight some of our favourite guides – all of whom we have travelled with. These experienced guides bring a safari to life in their own unique way and we can arrange for each of them to privately guide you on your safari.

KENYA: ANDREW FRANCOMBE Born and raised in Kenya, Andrew is a natural bushman and qualified pilot. He has put his flying skills to good use, exploring some of Africa’s remotest corners, both as a guide and in aid of conservation. Based at Ol Malo Lodge in Laikipia, along with his beloved helicopter, he specialises in exploring the wild Turkana region.

Rob – “Time in Andrew’s company is never dull. Expect to be entertained with stories of blood-swigging Turkana bandits and airborne elephant rescues, all whilst he manoeuvres his helicopter with unerring skill.

Passionately committed to conservation and exploration, he is someone whose company is a real privilege.”

WHAT MOTIVATES YOU TO CONTINUE GUIDING? “My complete passions are flying, the bush and my family, and with our trips and the guiding I do, I get the most out of those three things every day. I reckon if you wake up every morning excited to get on with the day ahead of you, then you’re doing the right job.”

ZIMBABWE: CLIVE STOCKIL Winner of the Tusk’s Prince William Award for Conservation, Clive Stockil has spent more than 40 years working to protect the wildlife of Gonarezhou, in Zimbabwe. Through the successful Project Campfire, he used his unique understanding of the area and its people to initiate change. After a lifetime spent exploring and protecting the park, he is now head guide at Chilo Gorge Lodge.

Bridget - “Clive’s quiet and unassuming nature draws you in and just makes you want to learn more from him about the area he calls home. Having spent pretty much his whole life in and around Gonarezhou National Park, he possesses unrivalled knowledge and passion for this spectacular corner of Zimbabwe.”

WHAT MOTIVATES YOU TO CONTINUE GUIDING? “The daunting reality is that the more one learns, the more you realise there is to learn. It is always a pleasure guiding and sharing these experiences with those who appreciate remote, wild locations. I consider it privilege to be able to share one of Africa’s last true wilderness areas – a place where one never stops learning about rural cultures and the natural world.”

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TANZANIA AND KENYA: ALEX WALKER Born into the bush, Alex Walker grew up exploring East Africa. Learning from his father’s trackers, he gained an early knowledge of bush skills, which imbued him with a sense of belonging in nature. Now running a collection of renowned camps in the Masai Mara and Serengeti, Alex has ensured his immersive approach to guiding is replicated throughout.

Jarrod – “With a dry sense of humour, a keen eye for the unusual and knowledge based on a lifetime spent in the bush, Alex is a reminder that Africa is about so much more than the Big Five. Expect an intelligence that gives insightful and, at times, moving interpretation of life in Africa.”

WHAT MOTIVATES YOU TO CONTINUE GUIDING? “I have an almost quixotic romantic affection for wild empty spaces. There is an indescribable purity to being immersed in a wholly natural setting. Clean air, unspoilt and untamed, and animals that are truly wild: it’s an unconditional environment that we are lucky to touch, and yet is untainted by our fingerprints. If you immerse yourself in it, osmosis begins to take effect, and the quietude and the beauty quietly infuse your being.”

BOTSWANA: RALPH BOUSFIELD The son of African pioneer Jack Bousfield, Ralph followed in his father’s footsteps, becoming the fifth generation of his family to guide safaris. His passion for the Botswanan Kalahari was nurtured at a young age, fuelled by time spent with Bushmen on safari. Now, there are few people who can claim to know this desert better, and there is certainly no better guide to explore it with.

Illona - “Ralph carries extensive knowledge born from years at his parents’ side in the wilderness and subsequent years exploring by himself. He has the electrifying knack of weaving the knowledge he has into a story; his enthusiastic storytelling is the bridge between your world and his, staying with you long after your safari is over”

WHAT MOTIVATES YOU TO CONTINUE GUIDING? “The safari business is what I was raised to do. And it’s what I love”

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Pride of Zimbabwe

NADIA SHAHANAZ HUSSAIN | ZIMBABWE

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alvet Nkomo, our guide in Hwange, looks back at us, his brows furrowed as the dwindling remnants of sunlight drift across the plains of Zimbabwe’s Imbiza National Park, imbuing this almost prehistoric landscape with hues of pink and purple. “I can teach and train for years but some things...’’ Calvet pauses again, glancing over at the silhouette of a herd of elephants in the distance. “Well, some things you just know and feel. They can’t be taught. You can’t Google the bush.’’

This is my first safari, the first opportunity I’ve had to really learn what an experienced guide has to offer, and I’m in total agreement.

Four days into our trip and every evening I’m left thinking “How can this possibly get any better?’’ Yet in the mornings I awake with a renewed sense of wonder, and every trip out

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into the bush somehow seems to top the last.

The next day, after a lazy morning in the gathering heat, a feverishly animated Calvet bounds into camp with a big announcement. “Lions!”

We have a choice: afternoon tea, or head out to see the pride during the golden hour. It’s not a difficult decision. Without hesitation, the entire party leaps into the Land Cruiser, armed with our cameras. We had caught a glimpse of Bubesi, the new leader of of Cecil’s pride, the day before and now there is a rumour he is nearby.

Bubesi has taken over much of the territory once dominated by Cecil, Hwange’s most famous lion until his untimely death at the hands of a trophy hunter in 2015.

Guides are an integral part of any safari

experience. Often building up a store of knowledge over decades, there are few things they don’t know about the bush. As we pass another group watching a dazzle of zebras quench their thirst around a waterhole, I can’t help feeling a little smug. I know we’re in the right vehicle, with the best guide.

Calvet, otherwise known as Hwange’s answer to Lewis Hamilton, is a dynamo behind the wheel. He realises time is of the essence and expects us not to mind the occasional bump. We swing down a narrow track lined with tall bushes and trees, ducking lowhanging branches. I hold on tightly, already accustomed to his unique style of driving.

Suddenly Calvet brings the jeep to a halt. “I smell them!” We look around carefully, but apart from a few overgrown bushes, nothing.

Then, besides a termite mound, movement.

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“Yebbo yes!’’ Calvet whispers excitedly.

Half-standing with his arms raised at ninety degrees, he performs a little shimmy what we fondly describe as the ‘Calvet Dance’. Just 20 metres away from us, a heap of lions sprawl untidily across each other, their fur swaying in the breeze and catching beams of golden light.

We’re now miles away from the nearest track, so I ask the obvious question: “How did you know they were here, Calvet?’’

“I just knew” he replies, with a smile in his eyes.

No GPS. No tip-off. Pure instinct has brought us this amazing sight.

He brings the jeep around so we can get the perfect photo angle, then introduces us to

each of Bubesi’s five lionesses and their cubs in turn. Several of them lethargically get to their feet and approach us, heads tilted upward, more inquisitive than menacing.

Calvet assures us they have probably (!) eaten already, so there’s no need to be alarmed. Nevertheless, he is completely alert. Slowly, the lionesses walk past the front of the jeep before laying back down on a grassier, shaded area to our right. The largest of them remains standing, stretching her jaw to give a pained, rumbling roar that carries across the plains. The emotion is obvious.

Calvet whispers “She is crying out for her son, Xanda. They don’t know where he is or what has happened to him.”

She roars a second time, before slowly descending from the mound. We turn to

each other, horrified that we are seeing first hand the cruel effects of hunting.

Earlier this year Professor David Mcdonald, the director of WildCru, authored a government report on lion conservation and trophy hunting. Between 2003 and 2014 lion populations have declined by at least 42%. The stark figure keeps repeating itself in my head as we watch the pride.

After a few moments more of awe-struck silence, Calvet bounces up and down in his seat, grins and starts the ignition. Now on he adopts a relaxed cruising speed (for him anyway), veering onto a more established path towards Imbiza, before quickly tapping the brakes again. We gasp in unison as a herd of elephants appears as if from nowhere, striding directly across our path.

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As they approach, they part into two groups, passing along either side of the jeep. We gaze in amazement, and I can’t help but be reminded of the scene from Jurassic Park when the children watch from their vehicle as hundreds of dinosaurs casually stomp by. The elephants ignore us, but that does nothing for our feelings of vulnerability and humility.

Night is falling, and Calvet, one hand on the steering wheel, uses the other to shine a torch into the darkness. We jolt forward as he brakes sharply again. “Bubesi.

He’s close. This way. I can feel it.”

Thinking there is no way we’ll be able to find Bubesi when it’s this dark, I am quickly proved wrong by Calvet’s attuned instincts. Moments later the magnificent Bubesi stands between the headlights.

We follow him slowly for five minutes, but not once does he turn back to look at us.

He doesn’t need to make any allowances.

This is his territory and he knows it.

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stand near the waterhole, watching as reluctant elephant calves are ushered in by their mothers’ persistent trunks. They squeeze through between their larger, older siblings and frolic happily in the water, joyously blowing raspberries.

The older elephants watch over them, slurping from the pool and glancing around regularly.

They are quite aware that we are here, but they don’t need to make a show of strength to assert themselves. Each time they deeply breath out, their warm, earthy scent fills the air. We sit completely still, mesmerised as the darkness intensifies our hearing.

“Look over there,” whispers Calvet. In the shadows to our right, two leopards approach the waterhole, their stealthy, sleek forms brilliantly etched in the moonlight. Nocturnal animals, leopards are usually elusive. They’re also mostly solitary, so this is an incredibly rare experience. They stare straight across at our group for a moment, before slipping cautiously away back into the darkness.

Unexpected moments like this are the ones

we treasure most. There is no commentary, no camera clicking or lens zooming. Just silence.

The majesty of the wildlife is deafening.

“Did you see the giraffes?’’ asks one of our party casually over coffee the next morning.

“When?!’’ I demand enthusiastically, jumping to my feet and gazing out towards the waterhole. “Just now? I can’t see them...’’

“About 10 minutes ago,” she replies.

“They passed right by my tent.’’

It seems crude to think of safari as a checklist, but we’ve been treated to such a wealth of wildlife sightings over the last few days and I’ve been a little disappointed not to have seen giraffe yet. Perhaps I’m being greedy?

But, Calvet, as excitable and generous as ever, springs into action. “We’ll find them before you leave. Let’s take a walk into the bush’’ Single file we trek, eyes wide and eager. We see an elephant slowly making his way down to the waterhole for a drink. As we progress deeper into the trees, Calvet occasionally

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raises his hand in the air, signalling us to gather round. First to show us a patch of small insects, then to feel a velvety acacia pod – a favourite treat for elephants – then to point out some perfectly rounded giraffe scat. Still a little moist and warm, it gives us hope we are close.

It isn’t even 7am, but the sun is beating down. Calvet calls another halt: “I’ll call us a bush taxi’’. The group looks relieved to be escaping the heat, but disappointed the giraffe hunt is probably over.

Calvet, however, grins at us as he radios back to camp. My spirits lift. He knows exactly where they are. Within minutes a Land Cruiser arrives. We pile in and assume our positions, and before long Calvet shouts from the front seat.

“Yebbo yes! I see them, can you?’’ He’s no longer a young man, but Calvet’s eyesight is astonishing. He can make out tiny details from incredible distances. It is several minutes before anyone else catches sight of the giraffe.

They emerge elegantly from the bush, the male considerably darker and taller than

the four females accompanying him. A gangly juvenile follows. While our group is hushed by the serene spectacle, Calvet decides to test our wildlife knowledge.

“Do you know why their necks are so long?’’

A moment of thought. “To reach for food?’’ the woman to my left suggests.

“No. It’s because their heads are so far away”.

Calvet’s guiding abilities are impeccable. His jokes are not.

Turning back to the giraffe, his eyes twinkle, and his mouth curves into a wide smile as though this is the first time he’s ever seen one. The almost childlike enthusiasm is infectious. As adults, we often learn to guard our emotions, but the bush strips all such pretence. Calvet clearly lives for moments like these, and it’s a privilege to discover the bush through his eyes.

Seeing wildlife when on safari is never guaranteed but when you’re with a guide that knows the land and its inhabitants so well, the odds are always in your favour.

ZIMBABWE Seven days in Hwange and Mana Pools from $3,595pp, excluding international flights

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Travel in a Magimiks

JARROD KYTE | PAPUA NEW GUINEA

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here is an archipelago off the east coast of Papua New Guinea where a marriage is not formalised until the couple have shared a meal together, and where the local people play a game of cricket to resolve their differences. Welcome to the Trobriand Islands. Here the notion of free love is held sacrosanct and the virtues of a straight-batted cover drive are acknowledged by both men and women alike.

On a recent trip to Papua New Guinea, escorting Steppes Travel’s exclusive charter aboard the True North, I had the opportunity to take a helicopter excursion over the archipelago, to include a brief stopover on the largest island, Kiriwina. We set off after breakfast, the air completely still, the sky 32 | EDITION ONE 2018 | 855-562-7452

cloudless and the water far below as flat as a board. As we climbed high above the watery expanse of the Solomon Sea, our pilot, Rob, agreed with my unspoken sentiments: “These conditions couldn’t be any better for flying.”

Psychologists have long extolled the soothing properties of the colour blue. On that morning, we were lulled by the deep, vibrant shades of sky and the sea to the point where they became virtually indistinguishable. The blades above us might have been spinning for all they were worth, but inside the cabin all was calm. Eventually, the blue beneath us gave way to white coral ribbons that unravelled beneath the sea. In places, large coral spires broke the surface of the water, providing landing spots for pelagic birds.

The island of Kiriwina soon appeared beneath us, and within a minute of flying along its coastline a small village came into view. As the noise of the helicopter disturbed the peace, curious villagers left their houses and children ran around in circles, waving frantically up at us. Rob circled the village and gently lowered the helicopter into a large clearing, landing as smoothly as he had taken off. In the common language of Papua New Guinea, Tok Pisin (or pidgin, as it is more often referred), a helicopter is known as ‘magimiks bilong Jesus’. When we dropped out of the sky and touched down in Kiriwina, the reaction of the villagers was as if something otherworldly had imposed itself on their uncomplicated lives.

I tried to imagine how I would feel if I were

STEPPES TRAVELLER in in their situation, whether I would have received strangers in a weird flying machine with such unaffected hospitality, or with suspicion and hostility. I hope the former.

Rob introduced me to the village’s school teacher. He was immaculately dressed, wearing a pressed, white shirt, worn untucked and very loose around his tall, slender frame. His heavy brow and wellkept goatee beard imbued him with the appearance of a serious man but his smile gave the lie to it. He exuded that generous spirit I have always found so typical of Papuans, shaking my hand and speaking softly. By coincidence, the village children were practising for a dance competition against the other schools on the island – would we like to see them in action?

The children, ranging in age from five to 10 years old, were dressed in traditional costumes of short, red grass skirts or loincloths with matching head bands.

Some had adorned their outfits with hand-made necklaces and arm bands made from an assortment of shells, coloured seeds and flowers; others were sprinkled with tiny flecks of gold paint that glittered in the sun, or had simply opted for white stripes of paint down their faces - had Adam Ant once played here?

Forming straight lines, the group danced with focused intensity. Like any young children in the limelight, there was an air of seriousness and self-consciousness about their first dance, and it was only when the tempo of the music increased that they began to relax.

Soon, earnest concentration dissolved into spontaneous smiles as they watched their teacher throwing his own rambunctious moves on the grassy dance floor before discarding their inhibitions to follow his lead.

It was a wrench to leave the celebration.

While we climbed back into the helicopter, the villagers crowded together to wave us goodbye, creating a wall of smiling faces. As Rob took us back up into the air, we craned our necks to maintain eye contact for as long as we could. Before long though, the village was out of sight and once more we were a willing hostage to the big blue – a tiny, whirring speck in space, the magimiks returned to Jesus.

PAPUA NEW GUINEA 11 day holiday on a PNG cruise starting from $16,895pp, excluding international flights WWW.STEPPESTRAVEL.COM | EDITION ONE 2018 | 33

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Revisiting The Silk Route PAUL CRAVEN | KYRGYZSTAN, CHINA AND PAKISTAN

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t’s more than 10 years since I last visited Pakistan, and it doesn’t feel so familiar anymore. I was worried about going back. Nobody wants to go on holiday feeling they have to look over their shoulder all the time.

Last month though, it felt different.

Better. The Foreign and Commonwealth Office have lifted the ban on travel to Gilgit Baltistan (Hunza) and further advice from news sources, our partner in Pakistan, our insurer and most recently a direct security contact in Pakistan has provided, in my view, a well-balanced picture of life in the country today. Time to return. But, let me begin at the beginning.

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My first port of call was Bishkek, capital of Kyrgyzstan. I spent a day just outside the city at the Ala Archa National Park.

It was a great place to stretch my legs after the flight, and to get a taste for the many scenic mountain views I’d be enjoying over the coming weeks. My guide was a little perturbed to start with - my grey hair gave her cause for concern about my hiking abilities, especially when I insisted on continuing up to the mountain hut at 3,300 metres. To put this into context Lhasa is located at 3,600 metres. I may be no spring chicken but I’m not ready for the chop just yet. From Bishkek I ventured south, spending the night in Chichkan Gorge at a small motel that was situated

by a fast-running river. I made a small diversion to see Sary Chelek Lake, an alpine lake above the village of the same name. In terms of accommodation, it’s homestays all the way here, comfortable but with shared bathroom facilities.

In Arslanbob, a picturesque village that begins in the valley floor, and extends up the sides, there is a small but busy centre where goods are traded, and people come to meet and chat. With my local guide, I explored the walnut forest nearby - it is reputed to be the largest in the world and my guide, who proudly told me he had his own grove, explained how the fascinating allocation system of individual walnut trees was made, and who benefited from

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the collection of the nuts. The villagers of Arslanbob are great climbers, apparently, adept at harvesting their nuts quickly, which allows them to make extra money by scaling trees in service of people from neighbouring villages who lack the ability. It is rumoured that Rolls Royce once obtained the wood for their car interiors at the request of Winston Churchill from this very walnut grove, but my guide was unable to offer any further detail.

OVER THE IRKESHTAM PASS TO CHINA Leaving Arslanbob, I made a brief stopover in Osh, before travelling on to Sary-Tash, a tiny village that serves as the junction between Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and China. Like many parts of this region, accommodation options are limited, but the introduction of Community Based Tourism (CBT) initiatives to rural communities such as this have brought tangible benefits, helping to maintain standards and boost innovation.

The objective is to improve living conditions in remote mountain regions by developing a sustainable and wholesome ecotourism model that utilises local natural and recreational resources. The journey from Bishkek to the south and beyond to Kashgar through the Irkeshtam Pass is epic, with wider vistas and taller, even more impressive mountains.

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an open mind. Arriving in Kashgar however more than makes up for it in drama.

KASHGAR, SHIPTON’S ARCH, AND PEOPLEWATCHING IN TASHKURGAN That aside, I enjoyed my time in Kashgar immensely. The Old City is wonderful to stroll through, opposite the Id Kah Mosque. Kashgar of course is one of the best-preserved traditional Islamic cities in this part of Asia. The 17th century mausoleum of Afaq Khoja is renowned for its mosaics and tileworks, a beautiful building adorned with towers on each corner. I visited at the end of the day, so that I had the venue almost entirely to myself. Another highlight was sitting in a local tea house while a group of old men danced to music, their eyes twinkling at some amused female tourists.

This was my first opportunity to see Shipton’s Arch, thought to be the largest natural stone arch in the world. At 365 metres, it’s just shy of the Empire State Building. The arch was first discovered

by Eric Shipton, former British Consul in Kashgar, in 1947, but it fell from international attention until a National Geographic expedition located it again in 2000. Even following significant investment for tourism, getting to the arch still requires traversing a riverbed and climbing several staircases.

MUHARRAM IN PAKISTAN I entered Pakistan over the Khunjerab Pass, which at 4,693 metres is the world’s highest paved motorable border crossing. The entry procedures are just as monotonous as at Irkeshtam, but finally you pass beneath the Chinese arch and into Pakistan, and should you happen to need some cash at this point, you’ll be pleased to know the world’s highest ATM is located here although it only works in the daytime.

This part of the country has some of the highest mountains on the planet, with some 108 peaks over 7,000 metres and five over 8,000 metres. Several of them lie in the Karakoram range, which runs almost entirely through this region known as Gilgit Baltistan (GB). As you travel down the Karakoram Highway (KKH) a road that has evolved over the years from a track hewn from solid rock one jeep-wide, the mountainous scenery of towering rocks, jagged glaciers and whitewater rivers is awe-inspiring.

I paused at the first Pakistani checkpoint to pay the compulsory entrance fee for the Khunjerab National Park. One of the security personnel lent me his rifle scope, so that I could take a closer look at an Ibex resting on a mountain side. I had arrived during the holy month of Muharram, particularly observed

by Shia Muslims, to mark the martyrdom of Husayn Ibn Ali, grandson of Muhammad.

Thousands of people dress in mournful dark clothing to visit the mosques and listen to

speeches broadcast by the mullahs, before collecting in large groups to march through the streets. Some engage in self-flagellation, and it’s not uncommon to see some brave spirits walking across burning coals.

More colourful were the artistically painted lorries for which Pakistan is famous, all parked up on show along the roads. Lorry art developed as a result of drivers being away from home for long periods of time.

They wanted a connection with home, so began decorating their vehicles. There are no rules, and the imagination of the drivers and the artists that assist them makes for some memorable adornments.

I even saw several old Bedfords that would have started life in the UK. Domestic tourism is thriving here and the locals I met were without fail friendly and welcoming, which I feel is a good barometer of how things have improved. I think it’s time for Western visitors to return, and I hope some of you reading this will be able to follow in my footsteps, or even take their own detours from the well-trodden path, something I would always recommend.

SILK ROUTE 14 day Silk Road journey from $6,480 pp, excluding international flights

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A Field of Fireflies

BRIDGET COHEN | REPUBLIC OF CONGO

T

he headlights dim and the engine cuts out. Outside, all is still and pitch black. It takes a while for my eyes to adjust but then finally I see one. Then two.

Three, four...ten, twenty, more. All around the jeep, the night is illuminated by twinkling fireflies, dancing to a tune only they can hear in one of nature’s most spectacular light shows. This is my final evening in Odzala National Park, and I couldn’t hope for a more magical send-off.

Quiet, beautiful moments such as these gave me time to reflect on my experiences in this incredible park, which is one of the most important habitats for lowland gorilla and forest elephant in the Republic of Congo. Every day had been filled with adventure and unforgettable sights.

Was it the moment we came face to face with lowland gorillas deep in the forest? We came upon them as they rested high up in the trees, managing to make it look extremely comfortable. I held my breath as a huge silverback came down to have a closer look at us, or perhaps show off his agility in the branches. I didn’t know his reasons, but I do know it gave me a stunning photo opportunity.

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The rest of his family remained perched high up above, some stretching out languidly over the branches, others keenly watching us watching them, and some dozing easily in the most awkward positions. I did wonder what would happen if any of these sleepy gorillas had a slight twitch in their sleep. Would they suddenly come tumbling out of the trees, perhaps landing on top of us?

It felt as though the dense forest had closed up around us during the hour we spent watching the gorillas. I was reassured that our guide and tracker knew the forest well, navigating the journey back without a moment’s hesitation.

After a magical hour with the troop, we soon returned to camp via a winding network of paths and trails cut through the thick forest that would have been impossible to find if you hadn’t walked them a hundred times before.

Was it walking waist-deep in water, following elephant trails dating back millennia? In search of the park’s wildlife, we trekked for hours through the forests of Odzala. We followed trails and paths that have been used for generations by both the wildlife and the local communities who live around Odzala.

STEPPES TRAVELLER

The terrain was wonderfully diverse. At times, we would be walking through thick dense forest and then the next minute be crossing open savannah, before suddenly coming out into a bai - a forest clearing.

as alone, they took their leave. I felt a little sad for them, living in such a beautiful place, yet spending almost all of their time without company. But perhaps that makes their brief reconnections in the evenings so much more special.

I’m not a birder, but during these walks I was quite taken aback by the sheer number of birdlife that we saw, and more importantly, how our guide was able to mimic their calls bringing them closer for us to see. In truth, I would struggle to identify any of the species we saw, but I can tell you that together they formed one of the most impressive palettes of colour I’ve ever had the privilege to see.

My flight to London is coming into land. Looking out of the window at the city lights as we circle, I’m reminded of those fireflies on our final evening, how they seemed to appear from nowhere and gave us an unexpected and dazzling farewell performance, and I know beyond a doubt that they were biggest highlight of my trip to the Republic of Congo.

Was it watching the solitary, shadowy figures of the elephants as they emerged from a bai beneath a blanket of stars?

Sitting on the deck back at camp, we watched mesmerised as the gentle giants stepped out from the trees into a shaft of moonlight, wandering slowly down to the bai for a drink.

As the evening progressed, more and more of them appeared, greeting one another with low grumbles and sometimes high pitched trumpets. Then, just as quickly and quietly, and just

CONGO Nine days from $7,650 pp, excluding international flights

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Multi-Destination Holidays OUR MULTI-DESTINATION HOLIDAYS ALLOW YOU TO VISIT CONTRASTING COUNTRIES THAT COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER IN ORDER TO CREATE ONE SEAMLESS EXPERIENCE. AFRICA – SOUTH AFRICA, ZIMBABWE AND KENYA Cape Town – Victoria Falls – Masai Mara 14 day holiday from $8,640 pp, excluding international flights Combining these three countries offers a little bit of everything, as well as – arguably – the best of Africa. Cape Town is the continent’s liveliest and most varied city, with everything from modern art and fabulous cuisine to beautiful hikes and vast penguin colonies. Victoria Falls, with its thundering curtains of white water, holds a natural majesty that is unmissable, whilst the surrounding area is rich with adventurous, adrenalin-fuelled

activities. The Masai Mara, visited by the annual surge of migrating wildebeests, is filled with wildlife drama. Home to predators and prey, these plains are stalked by lions, leopards and cheetahs.

• D iscover vibrant Cape Town, staying at the beautiful Silo, built above a modern art museum • Visit the dramatic Victoria Falls and stay on river-level suites on Kandahar Island • Explore the wildlife-rich Masai Mara from Angama Mara, with its spectacular Out-of-Africa views.

CENTRAL AMERICA - COSTA RICA AND NICARAGUA Tortugero - Rio Pacuare - Granada 15 day holidays from $4,685 pp, excluding international flights Combining these three countries offers a little bit of Combine the wildlife, jungle, and activities of Costa Rica with the history, volcanic landscapes and beaches of Nicaragua on this holiday to Central America.

Following a night in a beautiful coffee plantation overlooking Costa Rica’s Central Valley, travel into the wildlife-rich wetlands of Tortuguero to start exploring the country’s remarkable biodiversity. Ramp up the activity scale as you

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white-water raft into the wilderness to hike, zipline and meet indigenous communities whilst based at Pacuare River Lodge.

In Nicaragua, discover Granada’s Spanish colonial architecture, churches and monuments, rich with history and culture.

• Spot sloth, howler monkey and a myriad of birdlife from the canals of Tortuguero • Embark on a private rafting adventure to the remote rainforest retreat, Pacuare Lodge • Visit the iconic island of Ometepe Island with its twin volcanic peaks before relaxing on the sandy beaches of the Pacific.

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SOUTH AMERICA - ARGENTINA, CHILE AND ANTARCTICA Buenos Aires - Salta - Tolar Grande - El Penon - San Pedro de Atacama - Pucon - Huilo Huilo - Puerto Varas - El Calafate - Torres del Paine - Punta Arenas - Antarctic Peninsula

west Argentina and Atacama desert, the lush green forests and volcanoes of the lake district, glacier dominated Southern Patagonia, finishing in the truly remote continent of Antarctica.

31 day holiday from $19,365 pp, excluding international flights

• Explore the Lake District, a haven for outdoor enthusiasts with spectacular forests, volcanoes and mountains

An epic journey starting in northern Argentina travelling south through the spectacular mountain scenery of the Andes to the southern tip of Chile and beyond. A visually rewarding and varied trip, you will explore the dry barren landscapes of north

• See stunning glaciers of Los Glaciares National Park and Torres del Paine National Park • Fly to Antarctica and explore on a small expeditionary ship.

EUROPE - RUSSIA - TRANS SIBERIAN RAILWAY WITH GOLDEN EAGLE Moscow - Kazan - Yekaterinburg - Novosibirsk - Irkutsk Lake Baikal - Ulan Ude - Ulaanbaatar - Vladivostok Travel on the Trans Siberian Golden Eagle Train as part of our exclusive group in June 2019 from $16,760 pp, excluding international flights The only way to see this vast country is by train and there is no more comfortable train than the Golden Eagle. This epic journey will take you from Eastern Russia crossing Central Asia before ending in the home of the Russian Pacific fleet, Vladivostok. En route you will be guided you through a variety of Russian and Mongolian cities giving you a unique insight into the history and culture of these incredible places. The journey itself will provide

picturesque views of the steam locomotive leading the way around Lake Baikal and the magnificent Ural mountain range. It is easy to understand why this is the world’s greatest train journey.

• Explore the beautiful Mongolian scenery dotted with nomadic gers • P rivate viewing of the Kremlin and Armoury in Moscow • Travel across the Urals and into the Mongolian steppe with a nomadic family welcome.

• To gain further insight into this fascinating route travel as part of a selective group in June 2019 with our Chairman Nick Laing and his wife Katya Galitzine, direct descendant of Catherine the Great.

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Sri Lanka

OUR MAN IN COLOMBO | GONZALO GIL LAVEDRA Gonzalo feels, and we agree, that when visiting Sri Lanka the capital, Colombo, is a must-see.

Below you’ll find some of his indispensable insider tips…

GONZALO I left my hometown of Buenos Aires at 17 and never looked back. Now 43, I’m still on the road with no end in sight.

Sometimes people ask me what my motivations were for choosing the life of a perpetual wanderer and I always tell them the same thing - fear of boredom.

One of my biggest inspirations has been The Tao of Travel by Paul Theroux, while this quote from the Irish travel writer Dervla Murphy has always stayed with me: “Choose your country, use guidebooks to identify the areas more frequented by foreigners - and then go in the opposite direction.”

Europe, Latin America, Asia, I’ve travelled through them all, and never been tempted to stay in one place for long, or stick to the map. Over the years, one comes to realise that the memories from the road that stick to you most are the experiences that you never expected.

It’s not always pretty in Colombo. I fell in love with Colombo through literature, especially the brilliantly dark descriptions rendered by Carl Muller. He spoke of an 42 | EDITION ONE 2018 | 855-562-7452

obscure underlying force dwelling underneath the new malls, the fancy shops and cafes, one that has been there all along. With the right kind of eyes you might be able to see it for yourself, so keep yours open.

Something to remember when exploring Galle Face Green: on the morning of April 4th, 1942, the Japanese launched a massive air raid on Colombo, using over 125 aircraft commanded by Mitsuo Fuchida, the naval captain who led the attack on Pearl Harbor.

Their target was the British Eastern Fleet, which the Japanese mistakenly thought was still at Colombo, but had in fact it had been moved just days previously to the Maldives and Trinco. Fuchida had to content himself with sinking the HMS Dorsetshire and HMS Cornwall.

A few British Hurricanes took to the skies in defence. One pilot was hit but managed to land on Galle Face Green to the surprise of passers-by. He was able to walk to the nearby Galle Face hotel where someone called: “You need a drink!” He was handed an amber liquid that turned out to be cold tea. It was only 8.30am and the bar was still closed, but the Japanese had failed in its attack on Ceylon.

LEONARD WOOLF IN CEYLON Colombo can sometimes feel like a bit of a mad house with the bustling crowds and the heat combining to form a heady effervescence. The writer Leonard Woolf described it thus: “...there was something extraordinarily real and at the same time unreal in the sights, sounds and smells the whole impact of Colombo, the Grand Oriental Hotel, and Ceylon in those first hours and days, and this curious mixture of intense reality and unreality applied to all my seven years in Ceylon.”

If you’re planning a trip to Sri Lanka then a copy of Woolf in Ceylon by Christopher Ondaatje makes for an insightful introduction to the country. The Grand Oriental Hotel which Woolf saw in the early 20th century is still standing, a wonderful monument to a bygone era.

JAFFNA For adventurous travellers or if you are returning to Sri Lanka and want to see a different side to what you’ve previously

STEPPES TRAVELLER experienced, Jaffna in the northern province should certainly be on your itinerary.

I wanted to create a programme in Jaffna that would help pave the way for tourism to return to the area and revitalise the economy.

In essence, many larger operators tend to use Sinhalese guides to take tourists to Jaffna - guides who often don’t know the area well, know even less about its history and don’t get along with local Tamils.

We began a tourism programme that is run by and for the benefit of local people. We believe this is the first initiative of its kind in

Sri Lanka, and it has been met with amazing feedback from clients and locals alike; something that gives us immense pride.

We aim to develop Jaffna tourism in a way that’s true to our values and our vision of sustainability. We also want to highlight unique experiences here and open the door to more remote destinations such as Delft.

Originally a Portuguese island known as ‘Isla de Vacas,’ Delft was taken over by the Dutch and renamed after their city of Delft which, as you may know, was the birthplace of Vermeer. This is a place of haunting beauty, with walls made of coral, no cars

and wild horses that run freely around the landscape. In all of Sri Lanka, this is the place about which I am most passionate, and I love introducing it to first-time visitors.

SRI LANKA 14 day holiday to Sri Lanka including Jaffna from $4,995 pp, excluding international flights

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Spotlight on Europe E

urope is where east meets west and presents a complete kaleidoscope of landscapes, cultures and holidays to suit everyone.

Towards the east, we have the Caucasus, a mesmerising range of mountainous countries where Europe juxtaposes Asia.

This stunning region includes Russia - the

largest country in the world spanning 11 time zones, Armenia - an ancient and historical site of cultural heritage, Georgia - famous for its mouthwatering cuisine and an alphabet all of its own, and Azerbaijan - which welcomes the beautiful waters of the Caspian Sea to its shores.

Moving westwards, Turkey offers a

wealth of history and architecture so intense it’s almost overwhelming. Spain is home to endless, pristine sandy beaches, extravagant dancing and UNESCO World Heritage Sites in no fewer than 13 cities. It is hard to know where to start but below are just a few suggestions to whet your appetite.

1. ROMANIA

Quirky bars and cafes, hilltop castles and baroque palaces, isolated villages where traditional folklores and cultures are maintained and protected wilderness areas providing sanctuary to deer, elks, bears and wolves. While Romania is not perfect it is uplifting to visit a country that values its heritage, both natural and cultural.

Why now? Thanks to forward thinking conservationists, over 50% of Europe’s bears call the Carpathians home. If wildlife isn’t your thing, then visit the bucolic region of Maramures or stay at HRH Prince Charles’ restored historic property in the Zalan Valley.

From $4,400 pp for a 10 day itinerary, including accommodation with breakfast, private guide and transport, activities and entrance fees but excluding international flights

2. GEORGIA

Walk the Trans-Caucasian Trail, visit Ushguli – Europe’s highest inhabited village and take a helicopter tour over Kazbegi and the surrounding mountains. You don’t have to be a diehard trekker to enjoy the Caucasus – take day walks among snow-capped peaks punctuated by sumptuous picnics, visits to vineyards, old villages and fascinating churches.

Why Now? New direct flights out of London Gatwick make one of Europe’s most picturesque and friendly countries more accessible.

To avoid back-tracking, fly into Tbilisi and then take budget airline, Wizz Air’s new direct flight out of Kutaisi back in to Luton.

From $2,855 pp for a nine day itinerary, including all transport, some meals, guiding and entrance fees but excluding international flights

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3. ALBANIA

History has decorated the Albanian landscape, every age subtly leaving its mark. Greek columns stand above terraced hillsides, Cold War bunkers hide beneath modern streets and Roman mosaics lie within forgotten city ruins. Explore beautiful Berat with its ornate Ottoman mansions that are stacked one upon another, wander through the steeply cobbled streets of sleepy Gjirokaster and hike through the Albanian Alps in the dramatic Theth National Park.

Why now? Whilst the Balkans are booming, neighbouring Albania remains quietly forgotten. But times are changing. With new boutique hotels, a burgeoning art scene and direct flights from London Gatwick, this beautiful country is slowly gaining recognition.

From $2,075 pp for a nine day itinerary, including accommodation with breakfast, guiding, transport and entrance fees but excluding international flights

4. CROATIA

Croatia is a country of diversity with over a thousand unexplored islands, offering a relatively off the beaten track experience. A perfect way to explore at least some of these is by private charter – take your pick from humble sailing boats to luxury superyachts. For an alternative view, try exploring its mediaeval buildings and hilltop fortresses of Trogir, Zadar and the Kornati archipelago on foot.

Why now? Croatia surprises the adventurous traveller offering authentic experiences and possibilities with everything from caving to rafting, off- road driving and canyoning - just a few miles inland from the coastline.

From $3,893 pp for a seven day itinerary, staying at the newly refurbished Hotel Excelsior in Dubrovnik and Hotel Park in Split, excluding international flights

5. SCOTLAND

Regain the romance of travel with a first class sleeper train to the Scottish Highlands. So much to explore from wild coastlines, the eclectic city of Edinburgh and rural idyl of the lochs and mountains. A favourite of ours is the stylish but homely Boath House where the stunningly designed gardens spill out over 22 acres and you can visit the neighbouring castles of the clans.

Why now? With food festivals, an exciting art scene and some of the best properties in Europe, Scotland is a destination full of exciting and diverse adventures.

From $3,205 pp for a seven day itinerary, three of which are spent at the Boath House, including all accommodation, first class sleeper train tickets, car hire and breakfast but excluding international flights

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Spotlight on South America T

he diversity of South America, its landscapes, wildlife and culture, make it a spectacular holiday destination. Whether it’s Incan ruins, Patagonian glaciers or the Amazonian rainforest

you will always have something to shout home about. With relatively stress-free flights and private guides throughout as standard, we believe these destinations should be on your travel radar.

ARGENTINA Travelling through Argentina, you really gain an appreciation for its wonderful diversity of landscapes, seasons and culture.

Whether you’re searching for wildlife in the Ibera Wetlands, trekking through snow-capped Andes peaks, riding on horseback across sprawling pampas or indulging your palate with the country’s exceptional cuisine, Argentina never ceases to amaze.

Horse riding is synonymous with Argentina, from the legendary gaucho tradition to the celebrated sport of polo. Stay at an estancia, enjoy seats at a polo game, feast on a three-course lunch including a classic Argentine asado and some of the country’s finest Malbec wines. You can also develop your own skills riding alongside club professionals and getting an indepth lesson from the experts.

13 days from $4,545 pp, excluding international flights

PERU Peru is a country with so much to offer, from its fascinating ancient Inca ruins including the iconic Machu Picchu, from expeditions into the vast Amazon rainforest or the majestic Andes mountains, to colourful traditional villages and Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable body of water.

Peru also has a vibrant foodie scene, boasting three of the world’s top 40 restaurants.

For those wanting a more immersive stay in the Amazon, we can arrange for you to stay at a remote lodge deep in the rainforest, where you can take part in a citizen science project. Alongside professional researchers, you will be involved in studying the region’s astonishingly diverse flora and fauna, such as by trekking out by night to identify insects drawn to a light trap. If a new species is discovered, you might even have the opportunity to name it.

12 days $4,615 pp, excluding international flights

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CHILE Stretching 2,670 miles from north to south, Chile is the longest country in the world. Naturally this means a spectacular diversity of landscapes, from the harsh terrain of the Atacama Desert, to the dramatic peaks, fjords and windswept wilderness of Patagonia. In between, you can find dense forests, crystal-clear lakes that are renowned for their fishing, world-renowned vineyards, European style cities and historic towns.

The capital, Santiago, richly rewards those who take the time to explore. It has a warm, European aspect, with the mighty Andes clearly visible to the east. Santiago is surrounded by prestigious vineyards, and we can arrange the most exciting and efficient transfers, by helicopter, so that you can enjoy a delicious lunch in the grounds, before cycling through the vines. Of course plenty of time is scheduled in for tastings.

12 days from $5,895 pp, excluding international flights

JOIN OUR GROUP TOUR TO COLOMBIA:

Amazon, Andes and Archaeology Group Tour August 2018

This is a fantastic opportunity to discover some of Colombia’s most remote and remarkable archaeological sites. From the capital, Bogotá to Cartagena and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of San Agustin, you will see beautifully preserved stone sculptures, ancient rock paintings and a host of other cultural treasures from indigenous and Spanish colonial periods.

Accompanied by a selection of Colombia’s foremost historians, archaeologists and anthropologists, who will provide an account of their work and a privileged insight into the country’s history, you will visit colourful markets, welcoming villages and sites of vital historic significance. This tour also encompasses the wildlife of the Llanos / Amazon region, and demonstrated how Colombia’s reinvigorated cities are balancing their heritage with a modern outlook. There’s never been a better time to explore Colombia, and this tour promises an unrivalled insight.

14 days on our group tour $6,885 pp, excluding international flights

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EXPERT LED

Wildlife Tours O

ur wildlife group tours have been receiving plaudits now for more than 15 years, from both our clients and conservation partners alike.

Below are just a selection of our portfolio, more can be viewed online or in our brochure.

We are continually looking for new, exciting and innovative wildlife experiences.

SOUTH AFRICA: RHINO CONSERVATION PROJECT Accompanied by Dr Peter Rogers 22 - 28 July 2018

$2,983 pp*

A hands-on wildlife opportunity which contributes to the conservation efforts being made to protect South Africa’s white rhino population in Greater Kruger National Park.

LET US KNOW WHAT KIND OF WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS YOU ARE IN SEARCH OF GROUPS@STEPPESTRAVEL.COM

NAMIBIA: GIRAFFE CONSERVATION SAFARI Accompanied by Dr Julian Fennessy 11th - 22nd November, 2018

$9,184 pp*

Journey to Etosha National Park, in search of an isolated population of desert-adapted giraffes. Accompanied by giraffe expert Dr Julian Fennessy, track, dart and collar two of these iconic African mammals.

KENYA: ELEPHANTS OF SAMBURU Accompanied by Saba Douglas-Hamilton 2- 9 June 2018

From $9,483 pp*

The contribution made to elephant conservation by the Douglas-Hamilton’s is legendary and so to spend a week in their company, on their home soil of Samburu and Naivasha, is the opportunity of a lifetime. Take walks and game drives in Samburu escorted by Saba DouglasHamilton and Elephant Watch’s Samburu guides.

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MADAGASCAR: LAND OF THE LEMUR Accompanied by local guides 9 - 21 September 2018

From $4,283 pp*

From lemurs that sing like whales, lizards with three eyes to the towering Avenune of Baobabs, our trip through Madagascar offers something different. With the chance to search for the cat-like fosa and the spectral aye-aye, the best guides in the country leads you through this fascinating and surreal adventure.

TONGA: SWIMMING WITH HUMPBACK WHALES Accompanied by Doug Allan 15 – 26 September 2018

From $7,013 pp*

Swim with humpback whales, accompanied by David Attenborough’s favourite cameraman, Doug Allan.

Immerse yourself in Tonga’s compelling mix of spectacular landscapes, pristine rainforests and azure waters.

BRAZIL: JAGUAR SAFARI IN THE PANTANAL Accompanied by Mario Haberfeld and Dr Arnaud Desbiez 3 – 11 October 2018

From $5,427 pp*

Accompany leading conservationists including the Onçafari Jaguar Project. Track jaguars in the southern Pantanal, and assist researchers as they study giant armadillos, anteaters and tapirs.

INDIA: LIONS AND LEOPARDS OF WEST INDIA Accompanied by Kartikeya Singh 30 November – 13 December 2018

From $7,793 pp*

With wildlife as the key focus, visit national parks and reserves such as those at Sasan Gir and the Rann of Kutch, in search of the rare Asiatic lion and the elusive Ghudkhur (Indian wild ass).

BORNEO: ORANGUTAN CONSERVATION Accompanied by Ashley Leiman OBE 14 - 23 October 2018

From $4,413 pp*

Steppes Travel’s partnership with the Orangutan Foundation allows us to take you to areas in the National Park otherwise closed to the general public. This in depth and small escorted group delves deep into the Tanjung Puting National Park with exceptional orangutan and other wildlife viewings.

*ALL PRICES EXCLUDING FLIGHTS

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EXPERT LED

W

Cultural Tours

e are recognised as one of the UK’s leading specialists in cultural, historical and archaeological small group tours. We have developed an enviable pool of tour experts, with

whom we carefully select based on their knowledge, companionship and personality.

WHERE AND WHO WOULD YOU LIKE TO TRAVEL WITH NEXT?

Below are just a selection of our portfolio, more can be viewed online or in our brochure.

LET US KNOW: GROUPS@STEPPESTRAVEL.COM

GREECE ANCIENT MACEDONIA: KINGDOM OF ALEXANDER Led by Carolyn Perry 28 April – 5 May 2018

From $3,633 pp*

Rich in manpower and natural resources, the ancient Kingdom of Macedonia provided the foundations for the outstanding expansionist successes of Alexander the Great and his father, Phillip II. Discover highlights including the ancient city of Pella, birthplace of Alexander the Great, the ancient sanctuary of Dion, dedicated to Zeus.

Finish with a trip to see the wonderfully-preserved Royal Cemetery at Vergina, resting place of Alexander’s father.

KYRGYZSTAN & CHINA GROUP TOUR: A JOURNEY ALONG THE SILK ROAD

Accompanied by Diana Driscoll 5 - 20 June 2018

From $5,843 pp*

This journey traverses the mighty Tian Shan (mountains) from the green and mountainous terrain of Kyrgyzstan with its proud history and nomadic culture to the better-known sites along the northern Chinese Silk Route. The Silk Route was about trade between continents and the Sunday Market at Kashgar typifies this. Dust and animals mingle with local herders and villagers, deals are done in the blink of an eye.

ARMENIA & GEORGIA: ANCIENT LANDS OF TRANSCAUCASIA Led by Ian Colvin 3 – 15 May 2018

From $4,673 pp*

The Caucasus is such a diverse and historically rich region to travel through and seeing both Armenia and Georgia in one tour is absorbing. Starting in Yerevan under the watchful and everpresent gaze of Mount Ararat, and ending in Tbilisi the itinerary meanders through arresting scenery taking in palaces, churches, monasteries, and entire towns carved into sheer rock faces.

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“Thank you Steppes Travel for the opportunity to be included in the celebration of exploration and hope for the future of life on Earth.

Travel! There is no better way to inspire humility about yourself and respect for others than to be at the mercy of those who do not speak your language, whether human, grizzly bear or shark.

As never before it is important for people to get out and about, to see the world through the eyes of others. Imagine - peace on Earth could happen!”

DR SYLVIA EARLE STEPPES BEYOND FESTIVAL, LONDON

855-562-7452 WWW.STEPPESTRAVEL.COM