Steppes Traveller | January 2016

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WINTER 2016

ANTARCTICA

AN EXCLUSIVE CHARTER

A YEAR IN THE GALAPAGOS GO NOW

WHAT’S HOT FOR 2016

SOUTH AFRICA FAMILY HOLIDAY

JAPAN

EXCLUSIVE OFFERS


“You should be able to look wildlife sculpture in the eye and see life”

Hamish Mackie MALL GALLERIES, FEDERATION OF BRITISH ARTISTS, LONDON. 10th – 22nd OCTOBER 2016.

HAMISH MACKIE

Internationally acclaimed artist Hamish Mackie recently journeyed to India with Steppes. As one of the world’s foremost wildlife sculptors he was suitably inspired and you can see his new work at the solo exhibition ‘Life in Bronze 2016’ at the Mall Galleries. We are delighted to be hosting a special private view on 20th October 2016. For more details and to join us please contact events@steppestravel.co.uk.

Why was it so good? Easy. The holiday’s success was down to the expertise and amazing attention to detail of one of Steppes Travel’s experts - Illona. In a world of information, she gave us knowledge. In a world of numbers (there were over three billion air passengers this year and this number is said to double within the next twenty years), we were names. In a world of stress, we relaxed. In a world of material goods, Illona gave us experiences. Such is the world of Steppes Travel. We hope you are inspired by this magazine and enjoy the Steppes factor in 2016.

Justin Wateridge Managing Director 2 | STEPPES TRAVELLER // 2016

WINTER 2016

Intro Go Now Hot Property

ANTARCTICA

AN EXCLUSIVE CHARTER

A YEAR IN THE GALAPAGOS GO NOW

WHAT’S HOT FOR 2016

Ocean Kingdoms

SOUTH AFRICA FAMILY HOLIDAY

JAPAN

EXCLUSIVE OFFERS

Guatemala Antarctica Making your money go further A Year in the Galapagos A Day in the Galapagos Life in the slow lane My Steppes Online Exclusive On Location Forgotten Wilderness Epic USA Amazing Memories Japan Wildlife Group Tours Expert-Led Groups Tours

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Winter Issue

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Perhaps given my seven year old son's reaction to the South African Airways freebie on his seat and his inability to identify a miniature tube of toothpaste, the omens for this holiday were looking good. Notwithstanding his low expectations, both his and ours were more than surpassed on a children’s and parents’ holiday of a lifetime.

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“Wow, Daddy. There is so much cool stuff - free eye masks, free socks and free glue.”

Contents

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To the ends of the earth

Steppes Travel Festival 17th - 18th SEPTEMBER 2016 ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, LONDON Don’t miss our special weekend event showcasing the best in Travel.

Royal Society for Asian Affairs STEPPES ARE SPONSORING A SERIES OF TALKS. Vanishing Tibet: 27th January 2016 Mongolia: Secrecy, Taboo and the Sacred Tomb of Genghis Khan 10th February 2016 Merv to Karakorum: The Assyrian Church of Central Asia - 9th March 2016 Alone in the Jungle: Vietnam, The Ho Chi Minh Trail - 6th April 2016

For tickets and further details www.steppestravel.co.uk/RSAA

Walking the Himalayas IN CONJUNCTION WITH HOW TO ACADEMY 11th February 2016 6:45pm – 8pm Tabernacle, London W11 2AY Tickets £25 & £30 (includes a copy of the book RRP £20) can be purchased via www. steppestravel.co.uk

Tigeropolis

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ne of our Non Exec Directors Richard Dikstra, who has travelled to India and many other destinations with Steppes has just published Tigeropolis – Beyond the Deep Forest. The first of a series of children’s books about a mythical tiger reserve at the foothills of the Himalayas, featuring cubs Bittu and Matti. A fun book for ages 8 - 10 with a strong conservation message.

Celebrity speakers, presentations and films, professional wildlife photographers, travel health specialists and much more…

FOR ALL EVENTS STEPPESTRAVEL.CO.UK/EVENTS

For tickets and further details www.steppestravel.co.uk

CONTACT: EVENTS@STEPPESTRAVEL.CO.UK

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AL ASKA - PRIVATE PAN- AL ASKA AIR SAFARI Alaska has one of the largest protected wildernesses on earth but it has been difficult to access. Pioneering the art of landing bush planes with tundra tyres on ice glaciers, the Claus family operate private flying safaris deep into truly remote areas and hidden glaciers. For the ultimate wilderness experience look no further. 10 day Pan-Alaskan flying safari in Wrangell-St Elias National Park all inclusive, staying at Ultima Thule Lodge from £8,295 pp including all flights and private guiding

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Hot Property NEW ORANGE COUNT Y HOTEL IN HAMPI, KARNATAKA, INDIA Once the epi-centre of the Vijayanagara empire, Hampi has long been popular for its surreal boulder-ridden landscape and laid back atmosphere but there has been a lack of decent accommodation. In January, after two years in the making, Orange County open the ideal place to base your stay, close to the UNESCO protected ruins and in keeping with the local landscape. 3 nights at Orange County as part of a 9 day holiday to India from £1,995 pp including flights and private guiding

GOS TH E G A L A PA ‘O R IG IN ’ IN T ch this A un O la B to t W E N enger yacht se ss pa 20 e us rio rge on board, th A sleek, luxu es and a concie id gu o tw ith W January. nal. s to be exceptio service promise pp with 7 nights days from £6,135 10 n. bi ca r pe Save £1,400 ts in including fligh onboard the Orig

O TT A G E , ARBEDS & C LO IS A B A ST E N YA acres and an L A IK IP IA , K ness of 60,000 er ild w e at iv pr Set in a idor, Loisaba’s migratory corr nt ha ep ted by el t an rt impo n in March. Hos Star Beds re-ope sai aa M k ia ip ik famous Kiboko mburu and La Sa al s) on iti ad w tr ter bed on heel a team of oteni (four-pos ok uk M ch ea , rs warrio deck. t onto the open can be rolled ou ying Safari uple. 13 days Fl Save £700 per co are based on twin sh from £4,165pp, ts including fligh in green season

WA N – D G E IN C H IT N E W TA J LO L SE R A I, N E PA Serai’ M E G H A U LI , the ‘Meghauli rs of Taj Safaris to ea the 16 cr of e e th on om in Fr . Stay an National Park riking st d an ds opens in Chitw be s, four poster ol po ge un pl r villas with is known fo its River. The park ti ap R e th of s view nt-back safaris. lation and elepha pu po o in rh g in ris rai and 4 ts at Meghauli Se gh ni 4 r: ffe O e Exclusiv 13 day holiday to Tola as part of a r aa nj Ba at ts nigh including flights from £3,745 pp India and Nepal

E M U , JA PA N SO R T A M A N E R N A ls) at M A NEW (the Bay of Pear ores of Ago Bay sh e th es the ac on d br he em rc u Pe a, Amanem ul ns ni Pe ki sa O d the ancient the tip of the quisite cuisine an ex th wi an Am of elegance al hot springs). A of onsen (miner n tio lity, di tra se ne Japa se spirit of hospita ulates the Japane ps ca en re he ay st lmness. at sprituality and ca ng a 3 night stay n 13 days includi pa Ja ng of di s ht clu ig in hl Hig £4,795 pp Mori suite from Amanemu in a flights

H L AN D S’ N EW ‘T H E H IG , TA N ZA N IA N GO RO N GO RO sweeping views Olmoti volcano with Set on the slopes of son enough to rea is location alone of the Serengeti, the experience e the exclusivity of the stay here. We also lov y windows ba d odburning stoves an the king size beds, wo ws). (to take in those vie rcuit nzania’s Northern Ci 10 day holiday of Ta luding flights from £4,295 pp inc

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EX CL US IV E & EW

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Ocean kingdoms

®

Our Charters

SAIL, DIVE AND SNORKEL IN THE WORLD’S FIVE OCEANS AND SEVEN SEAS ON ONE OF STEPPES TRAVEL’S INTIMATE SUPERYACHT CHARTERS. THIS IS A TRULY EXCLUSIVE EXPEDITION, HOSTED BY KNOWLEDGEABLE CREW DEDICATED TO EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE. REMOTE ISLANDS, CORAL ATOLLS AND ABUNDANT MARINE WILDLIFE AWAIT YOUR EXPLORATION FROM A BASE OF PRIVATE LUXURY.

Sail the South Seas

SY Shamoun is an elegant world-class modern classic 33 metre expedition yacht for 8 guests and 5 crew, built to the highest specifications. Board her 2016 & 2017 expedition voyages to the South Sea Pacific, where she will offer an exceptional blue water sailing and diving service. Built from aluminium, with wooden interior panelling, SY Shamoun has four ensuite double and twin cabins, and a tasteful open plan saloon and galley. Special features

SEYCHELLES Aldabra Islands In March 2017, join our exclusive Steppes charter of the Sea Bird to the Aldabra Islands (The Galapagos of Africa) in the Indian Ocean. An 18-day expedition that island-hops across the Seychelles, ending at the UNESCO site of Aldabra. Dive or snorkel off coral atolls, then step ashore in search of endemic species, including giant tortoises. 17 days sailing from £13,995 pp including flights

include a drop-down stern pontoon ladder to provide easy access for swimming and diving; an inflatable RIB entrance; and also a retractable keel, that allows her to moor in shallow bays, and alongside coral reefs. Let go, as SY Shamoun and her crew take you sailing, diving and snorkelling to some of the finest coral reefs in the world, in complete comfort.

© David Kirkland

NEW CALEDONIA

VANUATU

THE SOLOMON ISL ANDS

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FRENCH POLYNESIA

A fascinating melting pot of Melanesian and French culture, this former French colony is a nature-lover’s paradise, with the largest coral lagoon in the world, and a UNESCOlisted coral reef ecosystem second only in size to the Australian Great Barrier Reef.

Once known as the New Hebrides, Vanuatu is a string of 80 mountainous volcanic rainforest islands with picture perfect beaches, and incredible diving experiences. See gigantic banyan trees, huge waterfalls, and an ancient living culture with extraordinary ceremonies such as the Naghol bungee diving festival.

Known for its superb scuba diving, rich coral reefs and WWII ship wrecks, this Melanesian nation consists of a thousand islands so remote that exploring here can make you feel like a pioneer; off-thebeaten-track destinations don’t come more authentic than the Solomons.

Say “Bula” (a welcome greeting in Fiji) to an enchanting and beautiful South Sea Pacific archipelago of more than 300 islands. Fiji is famed for its friendly hospitality, rugged landscape, blue lagoons, white fringed palm beaches, and coral atoll islands: the perfect sail & dive charter destination.

French Polynesia has five island groups: the Society Islands (including Tahiti & Bora Bora); the Tuamotu archipelago; the Gambier Islands; the Marquesas Islands; and the Tubuai Islands. This collection of volcanic coral atoll islands are surrounded by fringing reefs and crystal clear turquoise lagoons, making them a true paradise for mariners, divers, and pure pleasure sun seekers.

For further details or to book any of our charters please contact: sail@steppestravel.com 0843 783 2272 8 | STEPPES TRAVELLER // 2016

MEDITERRANEAN, CARIBBEAN & INDIAN OCEAN CHARTERS Steppes crewed Yacht Charters are also available in the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, and the Indian Ocean, featuring sailing, swimming, snorkelling, diving, and surfing services, including shore excursions. Enjoy the total freedom of planning your own charter and itinerary with family, friends, or groups. For further details or to book any of our charters please contact: sail@steppestravel.com 0843 783 2272

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IT IS HOT AND HUMID, BUT I AM EXHILARATED. I AM IN AWE OF THE SECRETS OF THE JUNGLE; THE SECRETS OF THE LOST WORLD OF THE MAYA.

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Guatemala THE LOST WORLD O F T H E M AYA

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eten is a 36,000 square kilometre province in the north of Guatemala. At first glance there is not much to the province: only half a million people, lots of forest, and few roads. However, hidden within the jungle are hundreds of the most compelling ancient monuments to the Mayan way of life. The first site I visited was Uaxactun, which means ‘eight stones’ in Mayan. Uaxactun is post classic Mayan and predates its famous counterpart Chichen Itza in Mexico. The site is believed to contain 17 layers over 1,700 years, from 800 BC to 900 AD. Its royal chamber is the highest in the Mayan world, and its three astronomical pyramids, dating from 700 AD, are the earliest use of the astronomical calendar in Mayan buildings. The silence is engrossing as we walk through Central American cedar trees, palms and copal (incense) trees. Horses graze amongst the depressions that would have held water in Mayan times. Grass covers the paths that in the Mayan era would have been compacted earth. The limestone rock has faded, white replaced by a dull grey that lends an old-world charm to the site. Limestone is easily eroded; in comparison, the volcanic rock of Copan in Honduras contains some of the best preserved Mayan reliefs. Carlos, my guide, explains, “Uaxactun is not a reconstructed site; it is consolidated. What I mean is that the archaeologists left it as they found it. They simply cleared the earth away.”

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The ungodly screech of howler monkeys reverberates through the jungle. Spider monkeys forage in the trees overhead. Leafcutter ants march busily about their business. The architecture is rough. It has a simple charm: history under your feet. Mounds covered in foliage and gnarled trees lie untouched. Anywhere but Guatemala, and they would have been excavated. Red was the colour of the Mayans; it represents blood and the sun, and thus the buildings, temples and pyramids were all painted this colour. It was produced from cinabar- volcanic rock that liquefies when heated- and also liquid mercury, which was injected into the veins of the dead. The practice is still used by shamans to this day. Families come and sit with the dead, and talk to them. The Shaman uses a hollow-finish bone to inject a shot of mercury into the vein causing the body to jerk, and thus create the illusion that the body is responding to what is being said. I needed no such stimulant en route to the late classic site of Yaxha. Yaxha means green water. We arrive to silence in the fecund forest, with its dripping leaves. Once there was a population of 40,000 at Yaxha. Now, there is no one.

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I feel a privileged thrill at having this site to myself. I climb the prosaically named Temple 16, a heavy solid structure of the late classic period, and gaze in awe across the nearby lake and surrounding scenery. At the acropolis, I sit in silence trying to fathom its history. The acropolis dates from 700 BC to 900 AD – an impressive span. Such solitude is not going to happen at Tikal, which receives 700,000 visitors a year. It sounds a lot, but on the day that I visited there were little more than two hundred visitors. Thanks to Carlos’ knowledge, his guile, and his avowed intent to give his clients the most personal experience possible, I only came across a handful of other tourists. Before we start out I ask Carlos why Tikal is so popular, and which site he favours. “El Mirador is the largest, with a population of about 250,000. But most of the site is yet to be excavated. For me, the most impressive by far is Tikal, though it was only rediscovered in the 1840s.” There are thousands of ancient structures here, only some 18% of which have been excavated. The most prominent excavated buildings include six large pyramids, labelled temples ‘one’ to ‘six’ during the early survey of the site. It is difficult to comprehend its scale; hard to appreciate that only a fraction has been unearthed. It isn’t easy to come to terms with the range of history, or to differentiate between the diverse styles or periods. The ninth century saw the decline of the Classic Maya period, with the last hieroglyphs in Tikal bearing the date 889. The reasons for the collapse – drought, deforestation, overpopulation – are disputed, but what is clear is that it was swift. A powerful dynasty that held sway for almost a thousand years, was reduced to squatters living in thatched huts. Pottery has been carbon-dated by archaeologists to show that in 1200 there was still a handful of people living in Tikal. Trying to imagine a population of 120,000 in Tikal’s heyday is not difficult, walking around the Temple of the Seven Pyramids. It commands a large plaza of some sixty by

seventy metres that must have been hugely impressive in its pomp. Today it is filled with tranquility, and thankfully not many visitors; curiously, it is bypassed- or perhaps just plain missed- by many. We move to the next section taking tiny paths clearly not used by the majority of visitors to Tikal. Such hidden trails give us a sense of privacy and the privilege of unique perspective. “Don’t look up. Keep walking but look down. Keep looking down. OK, now look up.” In front of me towers Temple 5 - a unique design and the only temple facing north to Mexico. Its most striking feature is its height. At 57 metres it is the second highest structure at Tikal, but arguably the most impressive vertically. Yet in spite of its height, it was only excavated recently from 1996 – 2002. That is what I find so bewildering, so awe-inspiring about Tikal: there is much we do not yet know, much more for us to find out. Again, Carlos asks me to look down and keep moving forward. It’s all about first impressions, and creating that wow factor. It works, and I gasp in surprise at what lies beneath me. Hours after arriving at Tikal - hours of discovery after discovery, and one highlight after another- I arrive at the most remarkable and exciting of them all: the Grand Plaza, with the Temple of the Masks, and the Temple of the Grand Jaguar, facing each other. The rain comes down and grey breasted martins take to the air swarming after insects.

9 DAY TAILOR-MADE HOLIDAY TO GUATEMALA From £3,325 pp INCLUDING FLIGHTS

GUATEMALA & HONDURAS GROUP TOUR

LED BY DR DIANE DAVIES 27 FEB – 11 MARCH 2016

From £3,595 pp EXCLUDING INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

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OUR EXCLUSIVE CHARTER

Antarctica SOUTH GEORGIA AND THE FALKLANDS

In conjunction with

LED BY MONTY HALLS & SUE FLOOD WITH GUEST SPEAKER SIR RANULPH FIENNES

For anybody with a love of wildlife and wild places, a cruise to the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctic Peninsula is the ultimate experience. Nothing quite prepares you for the epic scale of Antarctica or the amazing sense of space. Towering ice cliffs, gigantic glaciers and icebergs the size of skyscrapers – little wonder that Roald Amundsen wrote of Antarctica: “the land looks like a fairy-tale”

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“It is an immense, ice-shrouded wilderness that defies our senses. Utterly beguiling - it has incomparable scenery, wildlife, and history. ”

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teppes is very excited to be offering an exclusive cruise to Antarctica, in conjunction with Telegraph Tours. This has been many months in the planning and here are some of the reasons why we believe this to be the ultimate Antarctic cruise: AKADEMIK IOFFE AN ICE-STRENGTHENED EXPEDITION SHIP

We wanted to secure the perfect boat for your Antarctic cruise and in the Akademik Ioffe, we believe that is exactly what we have. Designed as a scientific research vessel, she is stable, quick and manoeuvrable – making your crossing of the Drake Passage that much more comfortable. Thanks to an ongoing programme of refits and refurbishments she is comfortable and well-equipped for expedition cruising. Life on board is made congenial by a separate bar and lounge, a library, a theatre presentation room and a gym. With only a maximum of 100 passengers, it means less time is spent waiting to disembark or embark and thus maximising your time exploring Antarctica by zodiac, kayak and foot. ITINERARY – MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME IN ANTARCTICA

Having secured the Ioffe our next priority was the itinerary. South Georgia and the Falklands were ‘must-haves’ as the wildlife here is prolific. Huge rookeries of rockhopper,

Magellanic and king penguins can be seen on the open plains of the islands while significant numbers of both fur seals and the larger elephant seal can be found on the dark, volcanic beaches. Seabirds are also abundant around South Georgia and the Falklands, with wandering and black-browed albatross thriving. Our next non-negotiable was the Antarctic Peninsula. Sea ice is broken up at this time in the season which increases the number of landing sites along the peninsula and on the South Shetland Islands. Take a gentle trek to a high point, find a quiet spot and reflect on the sense of openness and space. Wildlife on the peninsula is remarkable and at this time of year chinstrap, gentoo and Adelie penguins can be seen rearing young chicks so the rookeries are full of life. Marine wildlife is also rich in this area with humpback, minke and orca whale frequently seen. EXPEDITIONARY STYLE OF TRAVEL

Just as important as the destinations visited on the voyage, was finding a partner in Antarctica whom shares our commitment

to delivering an expeditionary style of trip. The staff and crew of the Ioffe have years of experience - between them they have seen over 20 million penguins - in operating safe, informative and exhilarating Antarctic experiences. The emphasis is on getting off the ship and getting Antarctic snow on your boots, maximising the extended daylight hours. Zodiac safaris, hiking, kayaking, camping on the ice and polar plunges are possible on our Antarctic charter. On board there will be a fascinating programme of talks and lectures, ranging from natural history to the history of polar exploration. EXPERT-LED ANTARCTIC VOYAGE

The Ioffe’s team of Antarctic cruise specialists provide fascinating insight into polar history and the natural world but on our exclusive charter we felt compelled to augment their knowledge with a few of our own experts: Prior to setting sail we have organised for the world’s greatest living explorer, Sir Ranulph Fiennes, to meet with you for a private dinner in Buenos Aires and Ushuaia. Sir Ranulph is synonymous with Antarctic exploration and

will give your Antarctic cruise a unique send-off. Once on board, you will be joined by marine biologist, writer, explorer and television presenter, Monty Halls. Monty will give a number of presentations on board and will join in all of the excursions and activities offered throughout the Antarctic cruise. An Antarctic cruise provides for some incredible photographic opportunities and in Sue Flood we believe we have found the perfect photographic guide to help you capture the white continent’s spectacular landscape and fauna. Sue and Steppes have worked together on photographic trips all over the world, but she is never happier than when she is photographing in Antarctica. She will give presentations and photographic workshops on board and will be on hand during excursions to give tips and technical advice. DO BOOK EARLY TO GUARANTEE YOUR PREFERRED CABIN CHOICE.

18 NIGHTS CRUISE* FROM £11,495 PP

* BASED ON A TWIN CABIN

*PRICE BASED ON TWIN SHARE CABIN SEMI WITH SHARED FACILITIES. EXCLUDING FLIGHTS, PRE AND POST ACCOMMODATION AND TRANSFERS (THESE CAN BE BOOKED WITH US AT AN ADDITIONAL COST)

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Making your money go further Getaway now to take advantage of the favourable exchange rates. 2016 looks set to be the time to take that upgrade and an ideal time to travel to:

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The pound and dollar continue to improve against the Real – great news in the year of the Rio Olympics. Travel now to avoid the crowds hitting Rio later in the year. Head into the Pantanal for wonderful wildlife encounters or relax on the secluded beaches of the north east coast.

The rand remains weak against the pound and the dollar - at the time of going to press, you are looking at a 20% saving from last year’s prices. There are few countries in the world that offer the same level of diversity of holiday as South Africa, whether it’s a malaria-free family safari with the children or grandchildren, whale watching on the Cape or a journey along the Garden Route. Our experts Illona and Bridget (both born in South Africa) each have over 15 years experience of creating personalised journeys here.

If you are inspired by Sir David Attenborough’s return to the Great Barrier Reef and want to see this natural phenomenon, now is the time to visit. The Aussie dollar is 10% down against the pound from its peak. Our expertise in the office and on the ground means we are able to create some extraordinary experiences for you – from a performance at the Sydney Opera House to listening to dreamtime creation myths around a campfire with Aboriginal tribesman.

The rupee currently favours UK and US travellers. It initially strengthened in early 2015 but year on year is down 8% over the last 7 months. So, you really can live like a Maharaja more than ever before. Whether it’s a wildlife or a cultural experience you are looking for, India has it in abundance. The sheer scale and diversity of this country means you can see something different each time you journey here.

Yen to travel now – with the falling rates and our special seven experiences offer in Japan on page 45, now is very much the time to go east. New bookings made in January and February will benefit from £260 off per booking as standard** and the more you spend the more you save as our offer is 5% off the total price of your ground arrangements***

Year on year the Canadian dollar is 10% down, so we heartily recommend getting into the great outdoors and seeing this big country for less.

Brazil

AN ADVENTURE IN BRAZIL 12 DAYS FROM £2,950 PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS

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Plummeting peso – in 2015 it dropped to the lowest value since 2003. Travel here for sublimely beautiful and diverse landscapes, from the snow-capped peaks of the Andes to the atmospheric Atacama and the blue glaciers of Torres del Paine. This country is a photographer’s delight. HIGHLIGHTS OF CHILE 12 DAYS FROM £2,950 PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS

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South Africa

SOUTH AFRICA CAPE TOWN & KRUGER 11 DAYS FROM £2,595 PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS

Australia

India

RAJASTHAN UNEARTHED 12 DAYS FROM £2,395 PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS

Japan

JAPAN LESS EXPLORED: TOKYO, KYOTO & SHIKOKU 12 DAYS FROM £2,595 PP EXCLUDING FLIGHTS*

HIGHLIGHTS OF AUSTRALIA 15 DAYS FROM £2,695 PP EXCLUDING FLIGHTS*

Canada

THE ROCKIES 10 DAYS FROM £2,500 PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS

HHHHH Namibia

Take a private flying charter with the Schoeman brothers on the unique and haunting Skeleton coast. Safari in Etosha National Park or enjoy a self-drive holiday. Whatever you do, if you travel now you look to save 20% from this time last year. SKELETON COAST FLYING SAFARI 8 DAYS FROM £5, 495 PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS NAMIBIA SELF DRIVE 14 DAYS FROM £3,295 PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS

*flights available on request at additional cost. **based on two people travelling together *** Contact us for full terms & conditions. Offer is subject to availability at time of booking and excludes some departure dates.

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A Year

01 JANUARY

Giant tortoise eggs hatching. l Flightless cormorants, penguins and greater flamingos breeding and nesting. l Green sea turtles laying eggs. l

02 FEBRUARY l

in The Galapagos

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03 MARCH

LYING NEAR THE EQUATOR THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS ARE A GREAT OPTION AT ANY TIME OF YEAR. HERE ARE OUR TOPS TIPS FOR WHAT TO SEE WHEN. Steppes is a Gold Corporate member of the Galapagos Conservation Trust. As such, we continue to support ongoing conservation projects in the archipelago. When you book your holiday to the Galapagos Islands with Steppes Travel, you will also benefit from a year’s free membership of the Galapagos Conservation Trust.

Penguins migrate to Isabela & Fernandina. Marine iguanas nesting on Santa Cruz.

04 APRIL

09 SEPTEMBER

Sea turtles and marine/land iguanas nesting. l Waved albatrosses migrate and begin to nest.

3 and 10 million years •Total of 837 miles (1350km)of coastline more than mainland Ecuador 24% • of plant species, and 50% of vertebrate species, are still considered endangered due to human activity in earlier times •A Galapagos tortoise can weigh up to 595lb (270kg) with a carapace length of 4ft (1.2m), and outlives most humans •The endemic Galapagos marine iguana is the only lizard to swim in the ocean

08 AUGUST

Marine life still very active. Sea lions give birth and Giant tortoises return to the highlands after laying eggs.

l

•Estimated age of the islands is between

l The Humboldt Current is strong, making nutrients in the water more abundant and marine life more active. l Snorkelling is a must. l Dolphin and whale spotting, particularly when crossing to Fernandina Island. l Nesting season for boobies and cormorants. l Sea lion breeding season.

Mating season for frigate birds on San Cristobal. l Marine iguanas on Fernandina. l

DID YOU KNOW?

07 JULY

05 MAY

l Beginning of the Garua season (cool dry season - until December) l Blue footed booby courtship dances. l Waved albatrosses lay eggs on Espanola. l Great Frigate birds mating and nesting on Genovesa Island

06 JUNE

Great month for scuba divers. Humpback whales seen in the ocean from now until September. l Scalloped hammerhead sharks migrate to the islands in the north and whale sharks can also be seen in the north. l l

l l

l Snorkelling is excellent and swimming with sea-lion pups a must. l Penguin courtships on Bartolome.

10 OCTOBER

l Snorkelling is great and swimming with sea-lion pups very common. l Sea lion mating season begins. l Tortoises (Santa Cruz Island only) lay eggs. l Blue footed booby chicks can be seen on Isabella and Espanola Island.

11 NOVEMBER

l Still ideal time for snorkelling and marine encounters are very common. l Dive into the sea when the playful sea lion pups are getting their sea legs. l Great whale shark viewing opportunities in the north-west. l Green Sea turtles begin mating.

12 DECEMBER

l The Humboldt Current loses strength and there are plenty of hours of clear skies. l The start and the end of the breeding and mating seasons for many animals. l Giant tortoise eggs hatching. l Sea lions and fur sea lions start to breed.

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DOWNLOAD OUR GALAPAGOS HANDBOOK WWW.STEPPESTRAVEL.CO.UK/GALAPOGOS-ISLANDS >

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A Day in the Galapagos… BY JAMES ARMITAGE

I

’m eating breakfast overlooking a small port. Sea lions are playing noisily in front of me; barking at each other, splashing on and off the pontoon. One of Darwin’s iconic finches keeps cheekily returning to my bowl to steal watermelon seeds and eat them defiantly at the table, staring me straight in the eye. I’m back in the Galapagos Islands. Coolly confident wildlife of all shapes, colours and sizes within arm’s reach at every stage of my day.

I don a snorkel and mask for my favourite Galapagos activity. Bartolome, with its small caves and big rocks spotted with corals lends itself well for snorkelling. Before long I find myself floating above a family of sea lions swirling underneath and around me. One particular sea lion comes up to my level and has a good look at my face. He blows some bubbles and then swoops back down to

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dance with his friends. I’d like to think that he recognises me from when I visited last year. Deeper in the ocean, beyond the sea lions are some slow moving parrot fish, sting rays resting on the seabed and a couple of large but placid Galapagos reef sharks. The wonders don’t cease when I lift my head to get my bearings and find myself looking at a reef rock, on which are perched marine iguanas, Sally Lightfoot crabs, three penguins, a heron and two blue-footed boobies, all completely unperturbed by my emergence. I bob for a while watching more boobies and some pelicans diving for fish. With bright blue feet, a mating dance straight from the ministry of silly walks and a name that derives from the Spanish for ‘clown’, it is little wonder that people find it hard to take the blue footed booby seriously. That being said, they’re a creature of fascination and you’ll be surprised at how long you can gaze at them and their peculiar rituals. All of a sudden two lightning quick penguins, about the height of my forearm startle me. Having pushed their beaks inquisitively towards my head mounted GoPro, they retreat bemused and a little bashful, before continuing their drag race. Despite Charles Darwin only spending five weeks in the Galapagos Islands, of the

mammoth 248 week voyage of HMS Beagle, his experience on the islands unearthed a far greater significance than imagined. Galapagos wildlife is indeed ‘eminently curious’ and they not only deserve, but in fact command your attention.

GALAPAGOS CRUISE

10 DAYS FROM £3,995PP INC FLIGHTS

“THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THESE ISLANDS IS EMINENTLY CURIOUS, AND WELL DESERVES ATTENTION” CHARLES DARWIN

An excerpt from Charles Darwin’s Journal on HMS Beagle 17TH SEPTEMBER 1835 “These islands appear paradises for the whole family of Reptiles. Besides three kinds of Turtles, the Tortoise is so abundant that (a) single Ship’s company here caught 500 – 800 in a short time. The black Lava rocks on the beach are frequented by large (2- 3ft) most disgusting, clumsy Lizards. They are as black as the porous rocks over which they crawl and seek their prey from the Sea. Somebody calls them ‘imps of darkness.’ They assuredly well become the land they inhabit…. The birds are Strangers to Man and think him as innocent as their countrymen the huge Tortoises. Little birds, within 3 or 4 ft, quietly hopped about the bushes and were not frightened.” Excerpt from Charles Darwin’s journal onboard HMS Beagle.

GALAPAGOS BY LAND

10 DAYS FROM £4,795PP INC FLIGHTS

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Life in the

Slow Lane SOUTH INDIA BY KATE HITCHEN

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Our day in Kerala began early on the beach. As the sun rose, we watched fishermen and traders bartering over wicker baskets brimming full of fish. EACH BASKET WRITHING WITH THE COLOUR AND FLUIDITY OF QUICKSILVER, IT WAS AN ONSLAUGHT TO THE SENSES: SMELLY, CROWDED AND FRENETIC BUT ALSO INCREDIBLY ORGANISED AND FASCINATING.

T

rading on the beaches has been happening for centuries. Everyone has a job to do; someone will catch the fish, another will walk it up the beach and someone else will negotiate the fairest price with the traders. Small loans are also offered, giving people with cash flow problems the opportunity to buy fish to sell at the local market. Loans are repaid the same day for a nominal fee and I was assured that no ‘heavies’ are involved. It has been happening like that for years. After the beach, we went on to a local farmer’s house to get ready for a day pedalling through the paddy fields. Before heading off we ate the most delicious, homemade banana curry followed by sweet chocolate cake and the ubiquitous hot chai.

Thus fed, we got kitted out in in helmet and high vis vests and went on our way. I don’t normally take such precautions when I cycle around the Cotswolds but I was quite glad that I was going to stick out like a sore thumb on an Indian road! However once we set off I soon realised the high vis jacket wasn’t needed - the roads were quiet and the drivers courteous. I quickly worked out a few of the signals needed for Indian roads. For example, when a rickshaw driver is turning he will stick out his foot on the side he wishes to turn. Indian roads have always been a mystery to me but as soon as I was in charge of my own vehicle everything started to become clear. It was really refreshing to see rural life slowly pass by and to be able to have the flexibility to stop as and when we wanted. My guides Dax and Dilip

26 | STEPPES TRAVELLER // 2016

were a fountain of knowledge who seemed to know everyone (as is the case in India) and they really looked after me. The rest of the journey was devoted to cycling through paddy fields. The tracks were wide and cows roamed aimlessly around, happy and undisturbed. We lifted our bikes onto dugout canoes to cross waterways, we chatted to locals along the way, all of whom

were filled with childlike curiosity. The ladies we passed seemed the most curious of all, they smiled and openly giggled – probably at my extremely attractive helmet hair and fetching vest. I was beaming when I returned to the kitchen of the house where we had began our cycle ride. Before I had the chance to ask, a cup of steaming hot chai was thrust into my hand and I sat and chatted to the farmer and his wife who had been kind enough to host us. I asked him how long his family had been farming and he pointed to a portrait hanging on the wall of a distinguished looking man. “That’s my father,” the farmer said…. He was also farming for much of his life and he taught me everything I know. He lived until he was 102 years old. Sitting here, capturing a glimpse of his family life, I’m not at all surprised.

12 days Kerala holiday FROM £2,345 PP INCLUDING CYCLING, PRIVATE GUIDING, ACCOMMODATION AND FLIGHTS.

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MY STEPPES | YOUR JOURNEY STARTS HERE

My Steppes

2016 SEES THE LAUNCH OF OUR NEW MY STEPPES AND LOYALTY CLUB. MY STEPPES

A personalised and interactive area of our website. You will be able to login securely and… l See your updated current holidays l View past trips l Browse holiday ideas and create destination wish lists l Book and pay online l Chat to your travel expert l Share your itinerary with friends and family l Download our Know Before you Go booklets, reading lists before you travel l Download our travel app for your itinerary on the move

LOYALTY CLUB

Once you travel with us we hope you will always travel with us and as a little thank you we have a new reward scheme … l Be the first to hear about our events and exclusive offers l Accrue rewards each time you travel l See how many travel vouchers you have to spend with us l Choose from online discounts with our preferred partners l Choose what you receive as a pre departure gift from us

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EXCLUSIVE TO OUR READERS

BE INSPIRED BY OUR BLOGS AND SHARE YOUR TRAVEL STORIES WITH US

ONLINE OFFERS ENTER CODE

ST16

ON OUR WEBSITE

Travel runs through our veins and as a team we travel frequently, each time updating our knowledge and sharing what we discover with you. We hope you will be inspired by our travel blogs. Visit www.steppestravel.co.uk/blog/ to read about more of our latest adventures. We also love hearing about your travels and seeing your holiday photos. For a chance to win Steppes Travel vouchers do send in your own travel blog (500 – 1000 words) to blog@steppestravel.com THE WINNER WILL RECEIVE £250 O F T R AV E L V O U C H E R S AND BE PUBLISHED ON OUR WEBSITE.

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Go online to reveal your seven exclusive offers These offers will only be available to readers of Steppes Traveller.

ENTER CODE ST16 ON OUR WEBSITE STEPPESTRAVEL.CO.UK/HOLIDAYS/EXCLUSIVE-OFFERS/

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On Location

Sri Lanka

of exciting new d are a brace se is of m be to Not ceful, and full s: stylish, pea anka, the best e ce L n ag ri ie it S er er to p H ip ex g tr ning a ed Livin to hotel en is p ty -o si ly er h iv es d If you’re plan fr y, e rich e hill countr surprises. Th ce the island’s of Kandy in th und tour. This h ro ut way to experien a o S le, are on a, y d tr an un t- Kosl e the co Bazaar in Gal an at rt h ig Fo ep av n el en s, p um he -o rc o ci beac on-t m Sri new dynamis med for golden es. and the so e fa pl th m ry of te nt t s u le en co p ci a is d an l exam e, with life reserves, an st trail, there is wonderfu area. Intimat ild is w th ed in it g ab n h yi in jo these touri a little off the is Lanka is en -taking views, th ep th st st ea ju u br e yo n d if do an t, , g Ye ng on havin s food at are focusi e to see. And I’ve deliciou th , d n gs la in is er ff an o so much mor pping el of are boutique sit to this jew y small cafes po cal an s. M . ge ty an ti ch an on my third vi tive quality over qu shops selling lo the recent posi me surprise r of charming co be been struck by el m w u singly e n n a O d g. an zzin ng to an increa the up, ti In bu . ri bo nt co om Sri Lanka is bu ol so C e al in re here. . produce, ar development itan atmosphe been ignored ol is the sensitive op en ft sm o co ic classic , as h ht ital city the brig lth of fantast by ea w d a ie p s u er cc past, the cap o off y eraries Sri Lanka ings previousl er now new itin rm e fo ar r ei e th er th to But now build t ated North; s, bu e being renov d. Explore the , is a holiday re 4 4 de si 18 n in co be ed government ar pen ould is in the , originally o Leopard Safar vate which sh ri ’s p go a ri n o od R l en glory. Cargills se discover with Noe le of this- best Wilpattu; and of his camp e of n s o k r ar o p , classic examp es ed rb in cloudevelop with Mark Fo t coast. Trek idden less d h as s E it e r th ve f walking tour o co is s ringed the beaches n help you d re scenic hill lo p ex s; in ta team, who ca n historic mou nder through h the capped it ea w m a d te an n ; o treasures. o es dings. bush light is aftern rural surroun al travel by tea ic t, is ag el m ov Another high in n t se sh riti will not teads yston Ellis - B , Sri Lanka h the homes se it o w o d ch te ra u inimitable Ro bo yo lla Whatever es at poet, who co writer, and be lling with whal ke or sn y tr is s d appoint. hap cling through Beatles. Or per cy d an t, as co East & B E AC H off the North SCO SITES E N U s. A ge K lla N SRI L A remote vi PP OM £2,295 14 DAYS FR G FLIGHTS INCLUDIN PARDS ALES & LEO H W A K N A SRI L OUP TOUR SAFARI GR PP OM £4,630 15 DAYS FR G FLIGHTS INCLUDIN

B Y JO E PA R

KES

32 | STEPPES TRAVELLER // 2016

if you step a little off the tourist trail, there is so much more to see.

CONTACT OUR SRI LANKAN EXPERTS JOE AND KATE ON 0843 783 2272 / INSPIRE@STEPPESTRAVEL.COM

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FORGOTTEN

THE BUSHMEN OF NAMIBIA BY JARROD KYTE

O

ur Product Director, Jarrod Kyte, travelled to Namibia and spent time with the Bushmen of the Nyae Nyae conservancy. He felt privileged to be invited on a hunt and was moved by what he experienced at a healing dance. Here we share a few of his powerful photos and an excerpt from his travel journal. If you would like to follow in his footsteps, a similar experience with 4 days spent “Walking with the Bushmen”, combined with a 3 night stay at Khaudum National Park as part of an 8 day holiday to Namibia costs from £3,895 pp, including flights with Air Namibia.

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> “The orange glow from the flames of the fire bathe the old man in a benevolent light and reveal a wise and purposeful face. He is the healer; the pivotal figure of the healing dance to which I have been invited”

“I sit on the ground close to the fire at the end of a row of young men all dressed in shonas, the traditional bushman loincloth. Opposite stand the ladies of the village with an assortment of children- some on the breast, others glued to their mothers’ sides. The women clap and sing in high pitched tones, and a couple of the young men sitting near to me jump to their feet and urge the women to clap and sing with more gusto. The old man lifts his head to the stars. As his rheumy eyes lock onto a distant constellation he raises the palms of his hands and whispers an invocation. The stars have been the custodians of this ritual since time began, and he greets them with a reverence reserved for ancestors long passed on. They twinkle like brilliant halogens in the blanket-black sky, and as the clapping intensifies the old man’s body begins to shudder. Two men join him, and from a small jar, they take an ointment – a mixture of earth, water, ash, and mashed up plants, which they dab onto the old man’s naked torso. As his leathery skin absorbs the balm his body shakes so hard, it seems as if every sinew, muscle, and bone is vibrating with the intensity of a tuning fork. He shimmies his tall, slender frame along the line of young men sitting by the fire and lays his hands on the shoulders of one of the hunters I had met earlier in the day. The young man bows his head and as the clapping and singing reaches fever pitch, the healer removes his hands and looks skywards, as if seeking celestial intervention. He moves on, trancelike, body still convulsing, laying his hands on an old woman, before returning to the fire where he drops to his knees. Nonchalantly, he cups his hands and puts them into the embers of the fire, gathering red-hot coals, which he rubs onto his chest and midriff. He sits for a moment, hands on his hips, contemplative and subdued, before rising to his feet to be met by a visceral clapping and singing that shakes him from his reverie”. “My dumbfounded gaze meets the eyes of a young girl, no more than six years old, standing on the opposite side of the fire. She clings to her mother’s leg as the flames leap high into the starfilled sky and cast an ethereal glow across her cherubic face. Underneath the innocence there is an understanding that I am far from able to summon. She looks at the stars and then looks at her mother, before fixing her eyes on the old healer and clapping her hands in perfect time with the tempo”.

Experience Walking with Bushmen

4 DAYS SPENT WALKING WITH THE BUSHMEN COMBINED WITH A 3 NIGHT STAY AT KHAUDUM NATIONAL PARK

from £3,895 pp INC FLIGHTS WITH AIR NAMIBIA.

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IMAGINE EXPLORING THE LUSH FORESTS OF THE NORTH RIM OF THE GRAND CANYON, THE HILLS OF BIG SUR OVERLOOKING THE PACIFIC OCEAN. DINNER UNDER THE STARS ON A PRIVATE BEACH... 2016 marks the 100 year anniversary of the National Park Service in the USA. There are 59 National Parks, each with something unique to offer. One of the best ways to experience the raw, natural beauty of them is by staying at one of our private tented camps.

THE STEPPES DIFFERRENCE Steppes go the extra mile as standard. Each location is spectacular. Each camp is customised for you. l l l l l l

Outstanding guides Location, location, location Special Access Flexibility Fully serviced Beyond the Ordinary

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OUTSTANDING GUIDES

The guides Steppes use in each area are some of the best in the USA . Their local knowledge and experience is the difference between a great trip and an unforgettable one. Such insight is also paramount where the geological history of the landscapes is vast, and the terrain diverse and (often) inaccessible.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

Truly off the beaten track and remote, Steppes private camps offer an exclusive destination in comfortable accommodation, personally designed for your needs. No long transfers- just step out of your tent and into the great outdoors, maximising your time away.

SPECIAL ACCESS Accommodation located close to the national parks tends to be basic and in tourist-focused areas. Steppes obtain special permits to areas within the parks that others don’t have access to. FLEXIBILITY Design your time away to be a

fully immersive and very personal experience. Be it star gazing, canyoneering, fishing, biking, hiking or photography, we can design your journey around the past-times you love.

FULLY SERVICED After a day in the Great Outdoors there’s nothing quite like relaxing by the camp fire while your private chef prepares your favourite meal (and does the dishes) BEYOND THE ORDINARY

It’s what we’re all about. If you would like a picnic 900ft up, overlooking Lake Powell in an area only accessible by helicopter, then we can arrange it for you.

12 DAYS PRIVATE TENTED CAMPING

from £7,350 pp INCLUDING ALL FLIGHTS, GUIDING, TRANSFERS, CAR HIRE, EXCURSIONS AND ACTIVITIES, ACCOMMODATION AS SPECIFIED ON YOUR ITINERARY. BASED ON 4 PEOPLE SHARING

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Memories Amazing

A FAMILY HOLIDAY IN SOUTH AFRICA

“ELEPHANTS ARE CAPABLE OF PINPOINTING WATER SOURCES UP TO 12 MILES AWAY, AND WILL BE ABLE TO RECOGNISE ME EVEN IF I COME BACK TWENTY YEARS LATER.”

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R WE ARE AT CAMP JABULANI IN KAPAMA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE, ON THE EDGE OF KRUGER NATIONAL PARK, SOUTH AFRICA.

enowned for its elephant riding expeditions, and high level of elephant interaction, it keeps fourteen special elephants: from Pisa, the baby, to Sebokwe, the largest male; from Tokwe, the matriarch, to Mambo, the playful hooligan of the herd- plus, our Jabu, who owes the camp his name. “Like humans, who are typically right, or left-handed, elephants have a preferred side on which they use their trunk.” To illustrate this our guide, Stanley, shows us the grass stains, and wear and tear, on the lefthand side of Jabulani’s trunk. “The proboscis, or trunk, is a fusion of the nose and upper lip, elongated and specialised to become the elephant’s most important, and versatile, appendage. African elephants are equipped with two fingerlike projections at the tip of their trunk, while Asians have only one. The elephant’s trunk is sensitive enough to pick up a single blade of grass, yet strong enough to rip the branches off a tree.” As if to demonstrate this, Stanley asks Isabel, my eldest daughter, to drop the ankus (elephant goad) on the ground. Uncertain, she does so only for Jabulani to pick it back with his trunk, and ‘hand’ it back to her. The smile of joy on Isabel’s face was glorious to behold: pure enraptured delight. So too Jabulani. He seems to be beaming with pride, and behind

his thick curly eyelashes his eyes are smiling with real pleasure at being so appreciated. “Jabu, lift,” requests Stanley. Jabulani turns the end of his trunk upwards, inviting contributions. With huge smiles on their faces, the children pour pellets into his trunk. I don’t know who is happier: Jabu in receiving his treats; the children in giving them; or me in enjoying their delight. Elephant trunks are capable of expanding, contracting, and moving in a diverse array of directions, while their keen sense of smell is used to survey the environment. The trunk is raised and waived in the air to gather scent particles. These are then carried to a specialized gland called the Jacobson’s organ, located in the roof of the mouth. Through this process, elephants are capable of pinpointing water sources up to 12 miles away, and will be able to recognise me even if I come back twenty years later – hence the phrase ‘memory like an elephant.’ Jabulani stands scratching the back of one of his back legs with his other back leg. Dangerous to anthromorphise, but he does look surprisingly human. To further this, he scratches the front of his left front leg with his right leg. He then kicks and scuffs the sand, almost in unconscious boredom. Interaction over, we mount our elephants via a ramp. Legs astride the howdah, I realise that I am not as supple as I once was, and that my

elephant handler told me, elephants can feel a mosquito landing on them. Effectively, elephants walk on tiptoes; their foot is like a hand. The gnarly soles of their feet are designed for grip, and to mould themselves over any roughness in the terrain. Consequently, they can walk with near silent steps- although I did detect a steady, scuffing sound. We are afforded a great view on the back of this beautiful grey animal, who measures four metres at the shoulder. We catch sight of wildebeest, giraffe, and warthog. Our handler tells us that he sees lions, too, when on the elephants’ backs, but that the elephants are not phased by them. As he walks, Jabulani is constantly feeding. His digestive system is poor, only using 40% of what he eats. Whilst this makes for poor nutrient absorption, it creates a dung rich in nutrients that is beneficial to other animals, such as dung beetles. All the same, we learn that male elephants are won over by food: their stomachs rule. Perhaps they are not so different from us, after all.

The smile of joy on Isabel’s face was glorious to behold: pure enraptured delight.

(INC FLIGHTS) *BASED ON 2 ADULTS AND 3 CHILDREN UNDER 12 TRAVELLING TOGETHER.

decision to wear shorts was not the best. My elephant is remarkably hairy! Worse still, his hair is unexpectedly hard and scratchy. “Here, feel the outside of Jabu’s ear. Now, feel the inside. Feel how different it is. Velvety smooth on the inside?” An elephant’s skin is about an inch thick in most body parts, although it is paper-thin in some areas, such as behind the ears. These are made of a very thin layer of skin stretched over cartilage, and a rich network of blood vessels. On hot days, elephants will flap their ears constantly, creating a slight breeze. This breeze cools the surface blood vessels, and then the cooler blood gets circulated to the rest of the animal’s body. Sensitivity to touch does not depend on the thickness of skin, however. In elephants, the numerous nerve endings that sense touch and pain are on the skin’s surface. Hence, as my

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Our Amazing

Memories

b to do we all had a jo Rhino darting –

13 DAYS LUXURY SOUTH AFRICAN FAMILY HOLIDAY

From £5,195 pp* Anna’s Harry Po tter moment

abel d Is n a y Izz

Th es af ari

at surf the g n i y enjo

anus Herm

cr ew

Benedict and caracal

13 DAYS FAMILY HOLIDAY CAPE TOWN, HERMANUS & NKOMAZI GAME RESERVE

From £2,150 pp (INC FLIGHTS)

Isabel OTHER MEMORIES THAT STAND OUT: ’s – Ho w to t rain a D CYCLING AROUND CAPE TOWN ragon TABLE MOUNTAIN CABLE CAR PENGUINS AT BETTY’S BAY WHALE WATCHING IN HERMANUS

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JAPAN 44 | STEPPES TRAVELLER // 2016

7

EXPERIENCES IN JAPAN

TEMPLES & TRADITION Kyoto was the original residence of the emperor for over a 1,000 years and is one of the most atmospheric cities in Japan. With an abundance of temples and 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites, Kyoto is best enjoyed at a relatively slow pace. Take a walk to experience the full beauty of the city. Traditional wooden houses, weeping cherry blossoms, swaying bamboo thickets and the sound of geta (wooden soled shoes) striking paving stones are elements that bring ancient traditions to everyday life. This is also one of the only places you can cross paths with a real Geisha - an authentic Geisha performance is one of the most elegant and mesmerising highlights of a stay in Kyoto. 13 DAYS TEMPLES & TRADITION INCLUDING A VISIT TO KYOTO FROM ÂŁ3,795PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS

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06

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THE ART OF MARTIAL ARTS Visit a Sumo den to experience this unique style of wrestling. Japan is also well known for the Ninja - hired by noble samurai warriors to spy, sabotage and kill. Experience Japanese archery, learn to master the sword dance, receive a martial arts lesson from one of Japan’s most legendary sensei and visit a Karate dojo and learn to battle like a ninja.

ISLAND LIFE Looking for a beach to relax on after a full journey around Japan? Okinawa is the place. Sun-kissed beaches, crystal clear waters and abundant coral reefs. The waters surrounding Okinawa’s islands are considered to be amongst the most beautiful in the world with copious marine life - perfect for snorkelling and scuba diving.

12 DAY HOLIDAY FOR A FAMILY OF 4 FROM £3,595PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS

9 DAYS ISLAND LIFE FOR 2 PEOPLE FROM £2,495PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS

WHEN TO GO apan is as a year-round destination. In winter, you’ll find amazing skiing and snowboarding, seafood and onsen (hot springs). In summer, there are festivals and great beaches. In Autumn Japan is famous for its foliage when the maple trees explode into a range of brilliant colours and the temperatures are extremely pleasant. In spring, if you’re lucky you’ll catch the cherry blossoms in full bloom starting from warm Kyushu in March to colder Hokkaido in May.

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METROPOLIS The cutting-edge capital of Tokyo is famous for its forward-thinking modernity, neon-lit landscape and towering skyscrapers but it is also home to traditional temples and lovingly tended gardens. Below the surface of this hyperactive city of high-tech trends, you will find a city with its roots firmly in an ancient past. Visit Shinto shrines, Buddhist temples and the serene Imperial Palace. STAY FOUR NIGHTS AT PALACE HOTEL TOKYO FROM £1,120 FOR A DELUXE KING ROOM WITH A BALCONY ON A ROOM ONLY BASIS. STEPPES TRAVEL HAS ACCESS TO INCREDIBLE PRIVATE GUIDES WHO CAN ORGANISE SOME WONDERFUL EXPERIENCES FOR YOU.

04

WILDERNESS & WILDLIFE Just 90 minutes by bullet train from Tokyo lies the natural wonderland of Hakone. FujiHakone-Izu National Park includes the iconic Mount Fuji, an active stratovolcano which towers over the landscape, surrounded by glistening lakes and snow-capped mountains. For lovers of the outdoors, Hakone has some excellent day hikes through the park and would not be complete without a visit to an onsen (natural hot spring). Stay in a traditional ryokan (traditional guesthouse). Continue on the train to Nagano and visit the Jigokudani Monkey Park. 200 or so Japanese Macaques (Snow Monkeys) inhabit the area and despite the harsh conditions - snow-covered for one-third of the year - and the rough cliffs, the area is paradise for the monkeys due to the hot springs. 11 DAYS SNOW MONKEYS, KYOTO AND TOKYO FROM £2,495PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS

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SAKE & SUSHI Japan should be on every foodie’s wish list. The Michelin Guide has awarded Tokyo’s restaurants more Michelin stars than the restaurants in Paris, Hong Kong, New York, LA and London combined. We recommend staying in a ryokan as they tend to be attached to restaurants serving sumptuous multicourse Japanese Kaiseki cuisine. Meticulously prepared with exceptional detail and artistry, courses can be upwards of 14 and are almost too beautiful to eat. Tsukiji Tokyo is the world’s greatest food show. With over 2,000 tonnes of seafood passing through Tokyo’s iconic fish market every day, Tsukiji is a magnet for food lovers, especially those with an appetite for sushi. With a new market opening out of town in 2016, this traditional Tokyo institution will soon be shutting up shop. Go now.

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SOAK & SLEEP Depending on your budget and preferences, Japan offers a huge variety of accommodation options. World-class luxury hotels such as Aman and The Peninsular offer exceptional service and amenities while traditional ryokans are worth considering for their incredible traditional hospitality, private onsen (hot spring baths), exquisite home-cooked cuisine and elegant Japanese style rooms opening out onto serene Zen gardens.

N.B. It is worth bearing in mind when Japan’s national holidays are – during these, the nation is on the move, making it difficult to secure last minute transport and hotel bookings. BOOK BY THE END OF FEBRUARY QUOTING ‘JAPAN’ TO RECEIVE 5% DISCOUNT FOR TRAVEL IN 2016 ***

12 DAYS FROM £2,595PP INCLUDING FLIGHTS

13 DAYS FROM £3,795PP EXCLUDING FLIGHTS *** Contact us for full terms & conditions. Offer is subject to availability at time of booking and excludes some departure dates.

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Wildlife Group Tours See our website and download our brochure for the full listing of new tours •Small group size •Expert-Led •Privileged access •Stand out experiences

Tonga: Swim with Humpback Whales

Papua New Guinea Luxury Cruise

India: Flying Safari in the Land of the Tigers

Led by Doug Allan 2 - 15 August 2016

Led by Chris Packham 5 - 21 November 2016

Led by Karan Rana 12 - 21 April 2016

FROM £2,350 PP*

FROM £10,895 PP*

FROM £4,695 PP*

Join our tour led by David Attenborough’s favourite cameraman for some top tips on marine photography. Snorkel with the majestic humpback whales in the warm, clear waters of the Tongan Pacific for the chance to capture underwater footage and encounter these fascinating mammals up close.

Join naturalist and BBC presenter Chris Packham onboard our exclusive Steppes charter which sails around the remote islands of Papua New Guinea and up the Sepik River. Highlights include expeditions onshore to experience a ‘sing sing’ ceremony and encounter remote tribes.

Steppes have chartered a Cessna to allow you to fly between Bandhavgarh and Kanha, maximising your time in the National Parks with emphasis on unrushed game drives in search of tiger and other wildlife.

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*excluding flights, flights available on request at additional cost.

Indonesian Borneo Orangutan Conservation Led by experts from the Orangutan Foundation 4 - 14 June 2016 FROM £2,795 PP* Guided by conservation experts, come face to face with these intelligent primates and their fragile natural environment in Tanjung Putting National Park. Visit feeding sites including the famous Camp Leakey for exclusive access to orangutan release sites and learn more about habitat preservation and the rehabilitation of Asia’s only great ape.

Brazil Jaguars and Pantanal Wildlife

Zambia Photographic Safari

Led by Jaguar researchers from Mamiraua Institute & local guides. 24 May - 5 June 2016

Led by Sue Flood 9 - 21 May 2016

FROM £3,650 PP*

South Luangwa National Park provides the perfect spot for wildlife photographers. Verdant floodplains attract huge herds of game and are patrolled by an assortment of predators for rich pickings. Over 400 species of birds and remote bushcamps mean this is wildlife viewing at its best.

Mamiraua reserve has one of the highest densities of jaguars in the world. Join researchers to track these elusive cats and help fund jaguar monitoring projects, conservation and education within the local communities.

FROM £5,150 PP*

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Expert-Led Group Tours See our website and download our brochure for the full listing of new tours Why Steppes •Small group size •Expert-Led •Privileged access •Stand out experiences

Russia: Jewels of St Petersburg Led by Katya Galitzine 24 - 28 Feb 2016 FROM £1,645 PP* Discover the splendour of the Tsars and the treasures of pre Revolutionary Russia. Explore the vaults of the Hermitage and see exceptional gems not on public display. View the private collection of Fabergé eggs in the new museum at the Shuvalov Palace and visit the iconic Catherine Palace for its exquisite Amber Room.

Iran The Achaemenid Heritage

Armenia & Georgia Ancient Lands of Transcaucasia

Central Asia The Five Stans

Myanmar Hidden Burma

Led by Carolyn Perry 19 May - 2 June 2016 Led by Sylvie Franquet 25 Sep - 9 Oct 2016

Led by Ian Colvin 6 - 19 May 2016

Led by Dr William Taylor 28 June - 17 July 2016

Led by Rory MacLean 5 - 20 November 2016

FROM £2,695 PP*

FROM £5,645 PP INC FLIGHTS

FROM £2,995 PP*

FROM £3,495 PP*

View exceptional religious art and architecture from a diverse range of archaeological sites. Hill top monasteries, fortresses and exquisite ancient frescoes sit against the dramatic landscapes of the snow-capped Caucasus Mountains.

The Silk Route’s mountains, steppe grasslands and deserts and feudal mix of khanates and nomadic peoples link each ‘stan’ but also highlight each one’s unique character. Delight in the art and archaeology of the fabled ancient cities on the Silk Road including the iconic turquoise domes of Timurid architecture in Samarkand.

This tour is designed to highlight the best of Burma’s sites and experiences with an emphasis on visiting the fascinating far north. Visit Bagan’s plain of pagodas and spend time at the serene and timeless Inle Lake. Explore the remote northern Shan state and learn about the intriguing royal history of Myanmar’s former kingdom.

Explore the ruined ceremonial city of Persepolis, one of the wonders of the ancient world. Experience the atmospheric and romantic city of Shiraz, made famous by poetry, wine and roses and see the incredible architecture of Isfahan’s Imam Square.

Colombia Uncovered Led by Juan Ortiz & local experts 19 August - 1 Sept 2016 FROM £3,150 PP* Visit remote archaeological sites in the Andes and Amazon for ceremonial stone sculptures and burial mounds. Learn about the indigenous cultures that crafted this legacy and see the prolific collection of artefacts in Bogota’s Gold Museum. With time to view Amazonian wildlife and the colonial heritage in Cartagena.

*excluding flights, flights available on request at additional cost.

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where when to go

Be inspired for your holiday in 2016

where when

Want to see a wildlife spectacle like the Great Migration in Northern Tanzania, the rhododendron forests of Bhutan in full flower or need inspiration for your next holiday. Our calendar of holiday ideas has tips on when is good for what you want to experience. To find out more visit www.steppestravel.co.uk/when-to-go

to go

JANUARY

FEBRUARY FEBRUARY

MARCH MARCH

APRIL

MAY

JUNE JUNE

JULY JULY

AUGUST

SEPTEMBER

OCTOBER OCTOBER

NOVEMBER NOVEMBER

DECEMBER

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Our calendar of holiday ideas has tips on where to go and when to go throughout the year www.steppestravel.co.uk/holidays/when-to-go/


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