10
MosT
Romantic Wine & Food
FEBRUARY / MARCH 2007
VA N E S S A HOELSHER From Playboy’s pages to America’s wine lists
Pairings
the Truth About Bitters America’s Original
Irish Winery S t eamy
Atlanta Getaways
121 Wines Reviewed
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at Preferred Establishments Display through April 1, 2007
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Kroger has a great selection of wines, sure to please even the most discriminating wine lovers. Stop by your Kroger store and see our great selection!
Wine 2003 Parkers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Competition San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
Silver
2004 Parkers Estate Merlot
Jerry D. Mead’s New World International Wine Competition
Silver
2004 Arrow Creek Pinot Grigio
Jerry D. Mead’s New World International Wine Competition
Gold, Best of Class
2003 Arrow Creek Cabernet Sauvignon
Jerry D. Mead’s New World International Wine Competition
Silver
2003 Hawkstone Cabernet Sauvignon
San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
Gold
2004 Hawkstone Chardonnay
San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Jerry D. Mead’s New World International Wine Competition
Silver
Jerry D. Mead’s New World International Wine Competition
Gold
2004 Hawkstone Merlot
Award
Silver
{con ten t s}
f e at u r e s:
23 24
Is Bitter Better? Get a close up look at two famous caribbean drinks found on the islands of Curacao and Trinidad: Angostura bitters and Curacao liqueur
A bunny in the Vineyard Thanks to her father’s example, Playboy’s Atlanta-born Playmate Vanessa Hoelsher pushes her modeling career to the side and returns to her wine-soaked roots
The World’s Most Romantic 32 Wine and Food Pairings Whether you’re a wine lover or simply a lover, these ten combinations from across the globe will make you drool with delight.
Concannon Vineyards at sunrise Image courtesy of Andy Katz Photography
c olu m n s 12
14
& d e p a r t m e nt s
g u id e s
Wine News
Wine Merchant Guide … 36
Sherlock’s Bryant Takes Home French Award; NFL Nixes Kentucky Wine; 1982 Bordeaux Sets Auction Record; French Say Non To Woodchips
Need to pick up a bottle for dinner or a party? Search out one of these well-stocked shops, stores and grocers
Q&A
A wine-centric listing that includes winery contact information, restaurants’ wine dinners and tastings, education programs and more
Wine Events Calendar … 53
Jim Concannon made the winery founded by his Irish grandfather a virtual billboard for Livermore Valley’s revitalization
16
Columnist– Eric Lyman
18
Travel
Travel Guide … 57
Planning a trip? These destinations are great places to get lost for a weekend
When you are looking for a solid wine to go with that Italian meal, don’t forget Italy’s affordable, oft-forgotten gem of a varietal, Barbera
Check out three of the swankiest hotels in Atlanta where you can revive your love life and reconnect with your soul mate
w i ne r e v ie w s Introduction … 37 Bordeaux …42 Napa Meritage … 45 Napa Chardonnay … 46
10
MOST
romantiC Wine & FooD PAiRings
Languedoc Reds … 52 VA N E S S A HOELSHER PlAYBoY PlAYMAtE tURnEd AtlAntA winE iMPoRtER
the truth About Bitters AMERiCA’s oRiginAl
irish Winery stEAMY
AtlAntA gEtAwAYs
Complimentary
Chianti … 48
FEBRUARY / MARCH 2007
101
on the
cover:
Atlanta photographer and Wine Report art director, Chris Rank shot cover subject Vanessa Hoelsher at a Tuscan-style villa in the Buckhead area of Atlanta. Nancy Hancock did Vanessa’s make up and hair.
winEs REviEwEd
at preferred establishments Display through april 1, 2007
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february / march 2007
Wine R eport ®
Gary Kneller – President Steve Stevens – Editor in Chief Chris Rank – Art Director Wes Dewhurst – Advertising Director Hope Philbrick – Assistant Editor Brent Winter – Assistant Editor Jeff Piersol – Account Executive Bill Burrows – Account Executive Michael Patrick – Tasting Coordinator Brent Schwarz – Distribution Manager Jaymi Curley – administrative assistant Hope Philbrick & Mike Patrick Wine Review Writer & Tasting Panel Proctor
Rich Fuscia, Debbi Smith and Kathy Arturo Advertising Design Distribution Staff : Affinity Marketing, Richard Bush, Rob McAlister, Jack Wagner and Rodney White
The Wine Report is published bimonthly. © 2006 The Wine Report. All Rights Reserved. Issues are complimentary when visiting our distribution points. The Wine Report and The Wine Report logo are registered trademarks of Wine & Culinary, LLC, a company of LA Publishing & Media Group, LLC, 590 Madison Avenue, Floor 21, New York, NY 10022. To have The Wine Report delivered to your home or office, please contact us using the information below. Annual subscription rate: $18.
For subscriptions, submissions and all correspondence, write to:
The Wine Report 2200 Parklake Drive, Suite 100 Atlanta, GA 30345 (678) 985-9494 • Fax (678) 985-9644 Viewpoints expressed by contributing authors are not necessarily those of the publishers.
www.winesimple.com
{ let t ers}
A R ENAISSANCE
IN
C HIANTI
“Big beautiful pictures of cranberries floating in bogs made me homesick for Massachusetts”
I
was wondering how you can tell when a wine is ready to drink. I know you are supposed to drink some bottles right away and some can age for years. Is there a simple way to figure out when to drink a wine? -Jeffrey D., Newnan, Ga. Jeffery, Well the easy answer is there is no easy answer. Researching each wine you are concerned about is the only sure way to stay on top of your collection’s individual maturity, whether that collection is a 400-bottle cellar or 3 bottles in the back of your refrigerator. Some broad assumptions can be made about certain wines, but that is a tad tricky. Although you can generalize that California Cabernets are ready to drink at about 6 years and peak at about 10, that’s only true with the best of the lot and it varies from vintage to vintage. So you can forget about cellaring that $12 Cabernet. Basically if it’s cheap, drink it now. Despite the difficulties, it’s not an impossible task to keep up with your favorite wine’s peak drinking window. Vintage charts offer a general aging overview for multiple categories. You can google “vintage chart” and find one you like. The latest edition of Oz Clarke’s Pocket Wine Guide contains a lovely vintage chart which we highly recommend. These will give you a general idea of where that bottle is headed, but be careful. For the definitive word, you’ll need to check with the winery for updates on how a particular vintage is aging. They have a “wine library” used to track their product’s progression.
Thanks for the outstanding drawing on your last cover. And those cranberries! Big beautiful pictures of cranberries floating in bogs made me homesick for Massachusetts. And in the beer piece there were some cool pictures of my favorite beer pub, the Brick Store. Thanks for a great issue!-Ashley S., Decatur, Ga. Ashley, Thanks a million, but take a look at the next letter. We guess there are at least two opinions on everything. I noticed you changed your logo and have more pretty pictures for us to look at. I hope this is not because you think your readers are stupid and won’t read more in-depth discussions about wine. Just curious.- Jennifer F., Atlanta, Ga.
n a town made famous by its most
Gallo AD
Bob Townsend’s “Beers That Flavor the Season” [Winter 2006-07] brought back some fond memories. He mentioned Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout which I think my wife and I tried many years ago on a trip to New York City. I think this was before Brooklyn Brewery went national. It was our first trip to New York and we had an amazing time. In fact, we’re pretty sure our son was conceived there after a few of those chocolaty treats! -Sam F., Atlanta, Ga.
the legacy of a time-honored region, we flavor and sophistication. With Da Vinci Chianti, a modern classic is in the making.
Whoa, Jack. First of all, comparing powerful and elite California Cabernets like Cakebread and Miner to the elegance of a Rochioli Pinot Noir is the worst kind of apples and oranges. Assuming size means quality disrespects all wine and shows a misunderstanding of the nature of professional wine assessment and review. Furthermore, in editor Steve Stevens’ article, “The Top 50 Wines of 2006” [Winter 2006-07], it is clearly explained that the list is made up only of wines Wine Report officially scored in 2006, not every wine on the market.
If you would like us to publish your comments or questions about wine or Wine Report magazine, please email us at winetalk@winesimple.com. To submit your question, you can also log onto winesimple.com or mail it to: Wine Talk editor, 2200 Parklake Drive, Atlanta, Georgia 30345.
Renaissance is underway. Building upon are crafting a Chianti with contemporary
Your number one wine of the year was a Rochioli Pinot Noir? Are you serious? How can you possibly think that wine is better than the latest Cab from Cakebread or even from Miner? Nothing against Rochioli, but it can’t compare to the sheer size of so many other California reds.-Jack D., Roswell, Ga.
Thanks y’all for letting me know about Iron Horse Vineyards’ sparkling wine [Wine Reviews, Winter 2007]. I bought some—the Wedding Cuvée—for a dinner with my sister and brother-in-law. We drank it by itself before and after dinner and it was a real treat. It’s so nice to find a bottle better than the cheap stuff but still less than Champagne (We got ours for around $30 I think). I highly recommend this wine to anyone who needs some bubbly. It’s a great find!-Susie F., Atlanta, Ga.
celebrated son, Leonardo da Vinci, a
Alberto Antonini, Winemaker
Chianti 2005: Wine Spectator 86pts Chianti Classico 2004: Wine Report 91pts Chianti Riserva 2003: Wine Report 92pts S.to Ippolito 2003: Robert Parker 90pts Brunello di Montalcino 2000: Wine Spectator 90pts
{ 10 } wine report // february : : march 2007 Italian Table Wine, ©2006 daVinci USA, Healdsburg, CA. All rights reserved.
{ wine n e w s }
my accomplishments had been over the past 20 years in helping build French wine awareness and business.” Ardanaz recognized Bryant as “one of the great advocates and connoisseurs of French wines in the Atlanta region since 1986.” In addition to running Sherlock’s Wine Merchant, a chain of five wine retail stores, Bryant manages the selection process for the blending of the successful J. Sanders line of French wines and facilitates wine education through his partnership with Cook’s Warehouse. He travels to France each year to build and maintain relationships with wine growers and producers, and he often includes his staff on these trips in order to further their education and appreciation for French wines. “To you, wine is not something that can be truly appreciated without combining it with two essentials: food, which seems natural, but also, and maybe above all, people,” Ardanaz said to Bryant upon giving him the award.
Douglas “Doug” Bryant, owner and president of Sherlock’s Wine Merchant, was awarded the prestigious Le Mérite Agricole (Medal of Agriculture) Nov. 28 in a private ceremony at the residence of Philippe Ardanaz, the Consul General of France in Atlanta. Bryant is among a handful of Americans—and the only Georgian—selected to receive the Le Mérite Agricole in 2006. “I’m extremely honored,” says Bryant of the award that is bestowed by the French Minister of Agriculture twice a year to individuals around the world who have contributed significantly to sustaining French agriculture. Jules Méline created the award in 1883; it is France’s oldest civil award and the agricultural equivalent of the military Légion d’Honneur award. Louis Pasteur was among its first recipients. “The French are really good at recognizing people’s work and efforts over time,” says Bryant. To be eligible, candidates must have worked for at least 15 years in any industry related to the field of agriculture. Nominations by the Association Members of the Order of Le Mérite Agricole are submitted in a secret process, and the final decision goes through the Minister of Foreign Affairs to the French Minister of Agriculture. Of the medal presentation ceremony, Bryant recalls, “The Consul General gave a brief yet wonderful talk about why I was there and what { 12 } wine report // february : : march 2007
“Wine is the fourth-largest class of products exported from France to the United States, with a value of over 750 million euros for the first nine months of this year,” Ardanaz said. “Wine is important in our foreign trade, but it is also an important part of the French economy, and this why your work on behalf of our products is particularly significant.” In his comments, Ardanaz acknowledged Bryant’s heritage in the world of French wines: “You love to transmit your knowledge and passion, thereby ensuring that what you learned at your father’s knee will be transmitted and endure. In fact, it was your father, Dr. Milton Bryant, an avid collector of great Bordeaux and Burgundies, and a wine expert in his own right, who introduced you to the wonders of French wines, when you were but a young lad.” Ardanaz then pinned the medal on Bryant: an enameled white star suspended by a green and red ribbon. Accepting the award, Bryant spoke in French. “I thanked people for being there, talked about how honored I am for receiving this medal, and then a little about how I got involved in wine,” he says. Of the ceremony, Bryant recalls, “It was a wonderful evening. We had a private party at the Consul General’s residence with wines from France and a buffet prepared by a French chef.” Among the more than 60 attendees were Bryant’s wife, Nancy, and two of his children. “It truly was an honor for me and my family. It was an experience that I’ll remember and treasure for the rest of my life.”
The record setting cases of Mouton-Rothschild await their new owner.
Images Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Sherlock’s Exec Wins French Favor
Million-Dollar Wine Sets Auction Record Fifty cases of Château Mouton-Rothschild 1982 sold for a record $1,051,600 at Aulden Cellars/Sotheby’s in New York, a price that comes out to more than $1,750 per bottle.
French Ban Wood Chips
Steroids Control Grape Ripening
France has banned the use of wood chips in wine production, except on an “experimental basis,” just two months after the EU legalized them.
A mechanism explaining how grape ripening is controlled and how it may be manipulated has been developed by a group of Australian scientists.
“The INAO [Institut National des Appellations d’Origine], and more precisely the Comité National des Vins et Eaux-de-Vie, decided against the decision of the European Union,” says Josephine Neveux, a representative of the Wine & Spirits Division, Embassy of France, New York Trade Offices. The EU regulation was passed in July 2006; the French ban took effect in October. “This decision applies to AOC [Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée] wines only; the ‘vins de tables’ and ‘vins de pays’ categories are allowed to use wood chips in wine processing,” Neveux says.
“During ripening grapes become softer, larger and less acidic but more importantly they accumulate high levels of hexoses and color, flavor and aroma producing compounds,” the scientists write in a published summary. “The ripening transition is accompanied by large, apparently well coordinated change in gene transcription with many genes being ‘turned off’ and many others being ‘turned on.’ This change in gene transcription may well be coordinated by changes in hormone levels and/or perception.”
“This ban is supposed to protect the traditions in AOC wines,” she says. “For the INAO, the use of oak wood chips would be in total contradiction with the AOC concept.” More than half of all French wines produced are AOC wines. There is one loophole: “This ban does not apply to AOC bench tests that aim to go into detail in the knowledge of tannins,” says Neveux. “To date, seven AOC wines have already started these experimentations: Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur, Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Côtes du Rhône, Muscadet and Anjou.”
The lot sold on Nov. 18 for what Sotheby’s reports is a new record for a single lot at auction. It was part of a consignment from Park B. Smith, a textiles entrepreneur and restaurateur as well as a major wine collector. Smith is donating the proceeds to his alma mater, the College of the Holy Cross in Worcester, Mass.
Argentine wine and must exports are up 20 percent for the year, reported the Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura, reaching $347.3 million for the period from January to September. In the Atlanta area, “Shipments are actually up by closer to 30-plus percent,” says Rick Caudle, local representative for Frederick Wildman & Sons. He attributes the increase to Argentine wine’s “quality and value.”
“The challenge is now to understand how brassinosteroids and abscisic acid interact to promote ripening in grape berries, and to investigate ways in which we may control the levels of these hormones such that we may gain greater control over the ripening process,” says Dr. Gregory Symons of the School of Plant Science at the University of Tasmania. “Ultimately this knowledge could have significant implications for the improvement of fruit and wine quality.”
Aussie Water Worries Australian winemakers working to find solutions to their water management problems In an attempt to reduce the effects of one of Australia’s worst droughts, that nation’s premier organization of winemakers has formed a taskforce to make recommendations on how to manage the situation.
Smith bought the wine from Zachy’s/ Christie’s New York for $420,500 in April 1997, according to published reports. The cases had only had one previous owner.
Argentine Exports Up
The study focused on the effect of brassinosteriods, a group of steroidal plant hormones known to be essential for normal plant development. Cabernet Sauvignon vines were analyzed approximately eight weeks after flowering. The scientists concluded, “Brassinosteroid application has been shown to enhance ripening while the application of an inhibitor of BR synthesis delays ripening.”
NFL Halts Production of Bengals-Inspired Wine Kentucky winery Elk Creek Vineyards has stopped production of its Jungle Juice wine after the NFL filed a legal complaint against the winery. “It was a trademark issue,” says Brian McCarthy, an NFL spokesman. “This office sent a cease-anddesist letter to that [wine] company advising that [wine] company that it was infringing on the rights of the Cincinnati Bengals with its labeling, which we believe contained the well-known colors, pattern and eyes of the Cincinnati Bengals. So it was a trademark dispute, and that’s all we can say from here.”
The Winemakers’ Federation of Australia says wineries will have to find ways to work with less water as a result of the severe nationwide drought. The group will coordinate the wine industry’s water use and water allocation data to help better understand the effects of water and future grape harvests, according to the federation’s policy director Doug Young. “Like many other industries, (the wine industry) will need to find ways of working with less water,” continued Young. “It’s all about more effective resource management and good planning.”
wine report // february : : march 2007 { 13 }
{Q&A}
Jim Concannon, circa 2006
Concannon Vineyard was founded by Irish immigrant James Concannon in 1883 in California’s Livermore Valley. The pioneering winery helped shape the wine industry and continues to produce award-winning wines today. Wine Report recently met with James’ grandson and winery spokesperson Jim Concannon to learn more. WR: Your book Concannon: The First 125 Years was published last year. Why write it? JC: I thought it was a good time to document our history— so many stories. You know, too often people say, “We should have done something, but didn’t do it.” WR: The book documents Concannon Vineyard’s history of firsts. Please share some highlights of those firsts for our readers. JC: Concannon hired the nation’s first woman winemaker. It was a big, big deal; at that time, women weren’t permitted in certain professions. Katherine Vajda, a former ballerina from Budapest, came to Concannon in 1950 and was the first woman in America to ever become a professional winemaker.
Luck of the Irish
America’s oldest continuously operating winery celebrates 125 years of wine-making history—and history-making wine Jim Concannon peeks out of a fermentation tank in 1957
My grandfather, James Concannon, was the first Irish immigrant to ever make wine in America. Most immigrant winemakers were Italian or French, but it’s not a matter of nationality, it’s a matter of application. He had everything kind of against him, but he did it.
WR: Do women continue to hold prominent positions at Concannon? JC: They do, yeah. The marketing director and our chief lab technician are female. My wife of 46 years, Helen, isn’t an employee, but she’s the ramrod that really got this book put together. Our two winemakers are male, but that’s just coincidental. In the industry today, many head winemakers are women. WR: Is Petite Sirah still a dominant player at Concannon? JC: Our total wine production is about 250,000 cases. Of that, Petite Sirah is most dominant by far, with 50,000 cases. Interesting thing: There are only 7,000 acres of Petite Sirah in all the world, with 5,000 of that in California. So we won’t be deluged with inexpensive Petite Sirah on the market, the way we have been with Syrah, because of the flood of Shiraz from Australia. People get confused between Petite Sirah and Syrah/ Shiraz; they think it’s the same, and it’s not at all.
“My grandfather was born on St. Patrick’s Day in 1847, which for an Irishman is like being a saint or something.” In 1964, we released 300 cases of a 1961 Petite Sirah. Now we’re up to 50,000 cases, and we’ve trademarked “America’s First Petite Sirah.” My late brother Joe came up with Clones 07 and 08. That’s huge; those vines are the majority of Cabernet Sauvignon [planted] in America.
WR: So Concannon is a significant contributor to American wine history. JC: We’re probably the oldest continuously operating winery in America. We made wine during Prohibition, which is amazing. In 1883, my grandfather was advised by Archbishop Alemany to produce wine for churches. During Prohibition, if you were making [sacramental] wine, they couldn’t close you down. There were five wineries open in California during Prohibition, and the others weren’t as old as Concannon. You had to receive permission to make wine from the local bishop. If you didn’t get [approval] each year, you were shut down. You had to be credible. It’s what we’ve tried to do all along.
WR: Are there any innovations currently under way at Concannon? JC: We’re looking at making very small lots of reserve Petite Sirah that will sell at maybe the $45 to $50 range. We’re doing a series of different experiments in that category. And we just released a Pinot Gris in limited quantity. WR: Does Concannon have special plans for St. Patrick’s Day? JC:My grandfather was born on St. Patrick’s Day in 1847, which for an Irishman is like being a saint or something. The groundbreaking for our new facility took place last year on St. Patrick’s Day. Our older winery, a historical landmark, will be made into the first wine museum in America. The idea is to be able to walk through wine history from 1883. My 9-year-old granddaughter, Shannon, does Irish step dancing, and her troop will come in with some Irish bagpipers. We’ll have corned beef and cabbage for our wine club of 2,000 members. The feeling when you come to the winery is that a family home is here. wine report // february : : march 2007 { 15 }
{v i e ws}
BARBERA is Bet ter
Eric Lyman
Eric J. Lyman, a former chef with a passion for wines, is a freelance writer in Italy. His personal website is www.ericjlyman.com.
My friends say I can’t be serious when I tell them that I consider Barbera the perfect Italian wine. Surely, they say, that tribute would be a better fit for a worldclass wine like Barolo or Brunello, a powerhouse like Amarone, or the omnipresent Chianti.
second behind Tuscany’s Sangiovese). Indeed to this day half the vineyards in the Piedmont are still planted with Barbera. There are dozens of good Barbera producers, and if don’t have a favorite a good trick is to check the wine list for the Barolo and Barbaresco producers preferred by the restaurant owner. Then order that producer’s Barbera.
But the more I drink it the more I fall for Barbera’s seductive and very Italian charms: it’s rarely expensive, it’s easy to like, and its unusual combination of acidity with soft tannins make it an ideal partner for hundreds of foods including -- and what could be more Italian than this? -- lasagna, pizza, spaghetti in red sauce, or anything that focuses on that staple of Italian cuisine whose acidic backbone makes a lot of good wines seem flabby or dull—tomatoes.
The most common Barbera is from Asti, which makes three times as much of the stuff as does nearby Alba. A third region, Monferrato, is where the first Barberas were made and its production levels fall somewhere between Asti’s and Alba’s. Interestingly Barbera del Monferrato can be harder to find because much of it ends up as local table wine.
Barbera is now flourishing all over the world, grown by nostalgic Italians in Argentina, Australia, South Africa and California. In Italy it grows in more than half the country’s 20 regions. But the grape’s home is the Piedmont, the region best known for Nebbiolo-based superstars Barolo and Barbaresco. I admit Barolo and Barbaresco are in almost every respect superior to the Barbera I hold dear. But for a single bottle of one of those special-occasion wines you can buy nearly a case of charming and quaffable Barbera, which is less of an acquired taste and much more food friendly.
“A good trick is to check the wine list for the Barolo and Barbaresco producers preferred by the restaurant owner. Then order that producer’s Barbera.” And because it ripens sooner than Nebbiolo, Barbera often escapes the late-summer harsh weather that can damage its more elegant cousin -- exactly what happened in 2003 and 2004. Sadly, 2002 was such a washout in Piedmont that many vintners didn’t bottle their wines, but the 1996-2001 vintages were so good that they more than made up for it. My point: after throwing out 2002, for Barbera lately there’s not a bad vintage to pick from. Barbera grows under conditions that would punish the more temperamental Nebbiolo, so until the mid-1990s, it was the most commonly planted grape in Italy (it’s now
{ 16 } wine report // february : : march 2007
I’ve tried to determine which of the three areas produces the best Barbera and under which circumstances. But the truth is they’re hard for me to tell apart, although Monferrato’s producers seem to have mostly stayed away from the trend of using oak barrels to pass on the tannic structure the wine needs to be more agreeable—and more expensive. I’ve got mixed feelings about barrel-aged Barberas though that may just come from a longing for the juicy, light and fruity wine that comes to mind when I see “Barbera” written on a wine label. But a lot of folks love ‘em, and so more and more of these barrel-aged wines are appearing on the market. They will often have the name of a specific vineyard on the label alongside the name of the producer. You can really tell if you have one because it will taste tannic —the characteristic of the wine that dries out your gums and makes you pucker a l ittle. The wood turns the wine’s natural fruitiness into an intense and rich taste of berries and dried cherries. In the end, the classic Barbera uncomplicatedly carries the name of the producer along with the region, and is a simple and slightly rustic wine that can stand up to anything from pizza with anchovies to grilled meat. If drunk on its own, you may notice a sharp tingling on the tongue—that’s the acidity that needs a bite of food to tame it. So enjoy a forkful of almost anything and you’ll discover the roundness and balance that makes Barbera the perfect Italian wine. Seriously.
{travel}
PLUSH
a tg elt aaw n t a ays Whether you’re a visitor from afar or a local needing a break, Atlanta offers a wealth of opportunities to rest and recharge with your significant other
The petits fours cart at The Di ning Room, Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead.
Need an excuse for a romantic getaway? Here’s one: It’s spring. Take a break and celebrate the season with someone special. And if your love for each other is rivaled only by your shared passion for food, you’ll be glad to know that three of Atlanta’s top hotels are home to exceptional restaurants and offer romantic getaway packages that won’t ask you to settle for less. After a multicourse dinner of haute cuisine paired with wines, there’s nothing more convenient than an elevator commute “home” for the evening. Best of all, because these packages aren’t limited to Valentine’s Day, you can plan a romantic getaway—or even several— any time throughout the year. But why wait? Hilton Atlanta
My husband Dean and I first savored the benefits of a culinary hotel stay at Hilton Atlanta, which is only nine miles from our condo—but the feeling was definitely a world away. Upon opening the door to one of the property’s two two-story penthouse suites, we were greeted by a bottle of sparkling wine and a plate of chocolatecovered strawberries. Dinner at the AAA Four Diamond Nikolai’s Roof restaurant atop the hotel featured exquisite contemporary French cuisine with Russian influences, accompanied by eye-opening wine pairings. The flashy formality of the place—entrées are presented in silver domes ceremoniously removed by servers’ white-gloved hands—is the perfect match for the restaurant’s awe-inspiring views. When departing the restaurant, women are presented with a single long-stemmed red rose. Back in the penthouse, I stuck mine into the melting ice of the Champagne bucket before lowering myself into the swirling hot water of the in-room Jacuzzi. While the phrase “romantic getaway” might inspire visions of Caribbean seas, “You don’t need a palm tree to express love,” says Juan Garcia, director of sales and marketing for Hilton Atlanta. The key to a successful romantic escape is for a couple to spend time together, says Garcia.
The Di ning Room at The Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead.
{ 18 } wine report // february : : march 2007
Hilton Atlanta’s Romance Package (starting from $264/ couple), available year-round, includes in-room sparkling wine or cider; full breakfast for two; and health club, pool and whirlpool spa access. The package can be customized to “accommodate what people want,” says Garcia, with options like late checkout and available upgrades such as dinner at any one of the hotel’s five restaurants or booking one of the 22 suites. New options available in 2007 include limousine service to the hotel, a Tiffany gift, breakfast in bed and more.
Hilton’s “Straight to the Heart” event, which benefits the American Heart Association, is a Feb. 2-4 weekend package ($1,200 for two) featuring executive-level accommodations; wine tastings and wine seminars with award-winning sommeliers, including Hervé Pennequin, Hilton Atlanta’s resident sommelier and winner of third place in the 2004
“Dining in can be relaxing, especially when wearing pajamas.” Best Sommelier in the World competition; cooking classes; and dinner at Nikolai’s Roof with guest chef Christophe Eme, owner of the Los Angeles hot spot Ortolan. What distinguishes Hilton Atlanta is its service, says Garcia. “The proof is in the awards and accolades we’ve received,” he says.
Image courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel, Jaime Ardiles-Arce
The Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead
For a grand gesture sure to elicit a big “wow,” try the Ultimate Evening package from The Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead (starting at $2,000/couple; other romantic getaway packages start at $249/couple). The special occasion begins before you even reach the hotel, because round-trip luxury transportation is included from the airport or a residence within 50 miles. Enjoy a Champagne toast en route; after arrival, luxuriate in a couples’ one-hour massage in one of the properties’ 29 suites. The package also includes access to The Club Level, with five complimentary food presentations each day; a Spa Fresh gift package; a fresh flower arrangement; and a chef’s tasting menu for two (with wine pairings available for an additional cost) in The Dining Room, the Ritz-Carlton’s AAA Five Diamond restaurant.
Our suite featured a master bedroom with a four-poster king bed dressed in luxurious 600-thread-count cotton linens. The bedroom offered panoramic bay-window views of Buckhead, and the separate living area was equipped with a flat-screen TV facing a sofa and overstuffed chairs. The separate dining area was furnished in mahogany, but we dined in The Dining Room. Chef Arnaud Berthelier creates daily a la carte and tasting menus that showcase classic French cuisine with Mediterranean influences. His results are innovative and impressive. Berthelier explains that his goal is to preserve individual flavors while presenting them in creative combinations, although ultimately he wants “to get people to try new things and make them happy.”
wine report // february / march :: 2007 { 19 }
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Opt for wine pairings and prepare for a tasty education. Sommelier Chantelle Pabros Grilhot says, “I feel it’s my job to show those wines that are made for food and classics that are guardians of tradition—great wines.” Her cellar selections also pack some contemporary discoveries and a few delightful surprises.
“Park 75 restaurant is fine dining without the formality. We want great quality without fuss.” –chef Colin Quirk
When guests leave The Dining Room, they receive a signed copy of the evening’s menu, plus a small loaf of crusty bread to enjoy the next day. Traditional Southern formality defines The Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead; guests are addressed as “ladies” and “gentlemen.” The service is impeccable; in fact, The Dining Room was voted Atlanta’s No. 1 for Service in the Zagat Survey 2006/2007.
Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta
If the only thing stopping you from a romantic getaway is your desire not to leave Fluffy behind, then take a look at Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta, where pets are welcome. Dogs and cats are treated to canned food and Evian water served in branded bowls, and walking services can be arranged for dogs. Whether or not you bring an animal companion, you’ll enjoy comfortable elegance in any one of the 244 guest rooms and suites (packages start at $305/couple).
Our fourteenth-floor room offered corner-view perspectives of Midtown. The king-sized bed was dressed in crisp white linens; the marble bathroom featured a deep tub, separate walk-in shower, plush cotton towels and signature robes. While Dean and I took advantage of the in-room
{ 20 } wine report // february : : march 2007
DVD player and watched a movie on the flat-screen TV, our five-month-old kitten lingered on the wide windowsill. Because the main restaurant is closed on Sunday evenings, we opted for room service. Our order was presented with fanfare on a rolling cart draped in white linens. Hot items were kept to proper temperature with a warming drawer, and ice cream remained solid thanks to ice. Dining in can be relaxing, especially when wearing pajamas. But we confirmed on another evening that Park 75 Restaurant is worth getting dressed for. The innovative, seasonally inspired menu strives for “fine dining without the formality,” says chef Colin Quirk. “We want to be very fluid. We want great quality without fuss.” The menu is flexible: choose a multicourse meal or any number of hot or cold dishes (starting at $8). Fresh ingredients are sourced locally and globally; on the night we dined, the cheese cart featured two delicious selections from Australia. Executive pastry chef David Jeffries’ artistic desserts were almost too pretty to eat. Servers were well educated on wine and suggested pairings from a list that was primarily American, with an emphasis on red varietals and boutique labels. Quirk invited us to return, suggesting the Chef’s Table in the heart of the kitchen (available for two to eight people Monday through Saturday evenings for $150 per person). It’s an invitation we can readily accept because, luckily for us, Atlanta is not just a vacation destination; it’s home. Hope Philbrick is an assistant editor for Wine Report magazine.
Spirits of the Caribbean Happy accidents and well-kept secrets lie behind two of the Caribbean’s most distinctive exports: Curacao liqueur and Angostura bitters by Hope S. Philbrick
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The Caribbean Sea, world-renowned for its rum, is also home to two popular spirits that were created by mistake. Curaçao of Curaçao Liqueur and Angostura Aromatic Bitters both prove that sometimes, things gone wrong can taste oh so right. Many of the details are still secret, but Wine Report reveals what we discovered during recent visits to the production facilities of these two unexpected spirituous successes.
Curaçao Liqueur The original idea was to grow oranges. After Spanish explorers discovered the island of Curaçao off the coast of Venezuela in 1499, they wanted to plant Valencia oranges there so they could take citrus fruit with them on their journeys home. But Curaçao’s climate is very different from Spain’s. “They didn’t think about the soil, the sun and the dry weather that we have,” says John Bradshaw, production manager of Curaçao Liqueur. Instead of delicious sweet oranges, the ripened fruit was extremely bitter and “something not even goats wanted to eat,” Bradshaw says. The oranges were officially renamed Citrus aurantium currassuviensis (“golden orange of Curaçao”), to eliminate any association with Spain’s sweet Valencia oranges, and locals started calling them Laraha oranges. Whole groves of Laraha oranges were left forgotten and rotting for decades. Dried Laraha orange peels are brown like cardboard and stiff as Styrofoam. At some point, someone—there is no record of exactly who it was—broke a piece of dried Laraha peel, took a whiff, and discovered a concentrated orange scent that was both intoxicatingly sweet and completely unexpected, given the fruit’s bitter taste. During the 19th century, a Frenchman experimented with making liqueurs from the aromatic oils of dried Laraha peels. A recipe for dried-Laraha liqueur made its way from France to the Senior family in Curaçao, who performed further experiments using different production methods and exotic spices. Eventually, the family developed a recipe that’s still used today. “We have secret ingredients,” says Bradshaw, refusing to elaborate. Though some production details remain shrouded in mystery, Bradshaw reveals that Laraha oranges grow on plantations in the eastern part of the island. Each tree yields approximately 200 oranges, or 44 pounds of dried peels. Green fruit is harvested twice a year (ripe fruit is not used because ripe peels are thinner). Peels are cut into triangular segments, baked under the sun for approximately five days, and then placed into jute bags along with a mixture of “spices and herbs that is very secret—nobody knows,” says Bradshaw. Then, by way of clarification, he shrugs and says, “A few people.”
The bags then hang inside a still for three days in a process that Bradshaw likens to steeping tea. “The idea with a tea bag is you want the product’s taste in the water, but you don’t want the product itself in the water. We do the same. We just put the ‘tea bag’ in alcohol that is 96 percent pure, and we cook it for three days at 150 Celsius. After making the strong ‘tea,’ we take out the bag and add rainwater.” Additional secret ingredients are placed into the still prior to distillation, a process that takes another three days. After distillation, sugar is added to the distillate before it is filtered. “It takes three days of cooking, one day of cooling down, three days of distilling and three days of filtering” to produce Curaçao liqueur, Bradshaw says. The filtered product is clear. “For cocktail purposes, we do put in food coloring,” he says. Blue is perhaps the most well-known color of Curaçao liqueur, but green, orange, red and clear are also available. Bradshaw speaks with admiration of the special-order copper still that Senior & Co. purchased in 1896. “They made a very big investment in that kettle,” he says. “And it was a very good investment, because we’re still using the same kettle. The way they made Curaçao liqueur 110 years ago, we’re making it precisely the same way today.” It’s also produced in the same country mansion, Chobolobo. Though the goal of all the secrecy is to prohibit anybody else from making “the” Curaçao liqueur, that hasn’t stopped imitators from trying, says Bradshaw. The Senior family made a “big, big mistake” when they called their spirit “Curaçao Liqueur,” he says. “They didn’t know that the name of an island or a country cannot be protected” as a product name, he explains. To differentiate their product from everyone else’s, Senior & Co. changed the name of their liqueur to “Curaçao of Curaçao.” Also, the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau has ruled that only Senior & Co. is authorized to use the words “the authentic” on a Curaçao liqueur label. “We’re the best,” says Bradshaw, pointing out that other manufacturers use artificial flavors instead of Laraha oil.
Angostura Aromatic Bitters The recipe for Angostura Aromatic Bitters, originally developed in 1824, has been a secret for even longer than the Curaçao Liqueur recipe. Exactly how that secret is protected is the main topic of discussion during a tour of the House of Angostura, located in a 20-acre complex in Trinidad. “Five people know the recipe right now,” says Angostura tour guide Rae-Sal Stoute. “We call them ‘manufacturers.’” She explains that the five manufacturers are not allowed to travel together. “At the Christmas party, they can’t eat the same food or drink the same drinks,” because protecting the health of these five crucial employees is one way the company safeguards its intellectual capital. “They come here only when a batch is needed.”
The first step in making a batch of Angostura Aromatic Bitters is to obtain the botanical ingredients from London, England. “To keep the secret a secret from customs—of course, they’d peek at some point— what happens is we put in a lot more botanicals than what we actually need, just to throw them off,” Stoute says. Once the botanicals arrive at Angostura House, they are batched, coded and stored in large bags in the manufacturing room. When it’s time to make a new batch, the manufacturer on call “does his weighing in a secret room, which is right above the big grinder,” says Stoute. “He sends all of the botanicals down a
chute, grinds up everything and moves it into huge baskets.” The next step of distilling, she says, “is like making coffee, but instead of coffee beans you have the botanicals, and instead of hot water you have alcohol. Angostura Aromatic Bitters actually has more alcohol than rum; rum is 14 percent, and this is 44.7 percent.” The distillate sits in tanks for a minimum
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of three months, and then distilled water is added to the concentrate. “After that, it’s ready to be bottled,” says Stoute.
This highly guarded secret started out as a way to cure stomach disorders and severe fevers. Dr. Johann Gottlieb Benjamin Siegert left Germany in 1820 to join Simon Bolivar’s fight against Spain and was appointed Surgeon-General of the Military Hospital in Angostura, Venezuela. In an effort to treat the fevers and stomach ailments he was seeing among his patients, he became an apothecary and experimented with distilling herbs and plants that local Native Americans claimed could cure or treat various illnesses. After four years of experimentation, he developed a unique blend of herbs that he called Amargo Aromatico, or “aromatic bitters.” It’s not the potion’s medicinal benefits that have kept it on shelves for the past 183 years, but rather its pleasing taste and aroma. In 2000, average production levels of Angostura Aromatic Bitters reached 50 million liters. The trick to verifying the authenticity of Angostura Aromatic Bitters is to see if it floats. “In any liquid, [genuine Angostura Aromatic Bitters] always floats to the top,” says Stoute. “A lot of people have tried to imitate it, but they’ve never gotten that one part right.” Hope Philbrick is an assistant editor for Wine Report magazine.
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tHE GOOD LIFE Atlanta-born wine maven Vanessa Hoelsher rides her success at Playboy to new heights. The first time Vanessa Hoelsher visited her father at work, she was heartbroken. Although as a little girl in Atlanta, Ga. she didn’t know a thing about wine, Vanessa knew Chateau Ste. Michelle. Her father, Paul Hoelsher, was a Georgia marketing executive at the then-upstart Washington state winery, so the words were on her towels, t-shirts, writing paper, pool raft and a hundred other things. Indeed at her home in Atlanta’s East Cobb County, a large, handsome picture of the winery hung conspicuously on the dining room wall. She just knew her father worked in that building and made all of those wonderful things she found around her house. However when she went with him to work one day, she saw he did not work in that chic estate in the picture and did not make fun t-shirts and rafts emblazoned with the words “Chateau Ste. Michele.” She was horribly crushed. “It’s a funny story now, but at the time I was so disappointed,” Vanessa laughs. Little girls grow up of course, and ultimately Vanessa came to appreciate her father’s standing in the wine world. Paul Hoelsher founded a brokerage that dealt the wines of Caymus, Bonny Doon, Clos Du Val and Raymond. “I don’t know if we were the largest (wine brokerage) in the country, but we were certainly one of them,” says the elder Hoelsher. He also worked for Coca-Cola’s wine division when it had one and as a regional manager for Beaulieu Vineyards. In general, wine’s importance in the Hoelsher household is something Vanessa eventually recognized and avidly embraced.
the right people and suddenly she was Miss September 2005. “Playboy opened doors for me,” Vanessa says, “and it was an incredible experience.” By all accounts, her family, including her father, was extremely supportive. In a situation that seems to please them both, father and daughter work together now importing and representing an international portfolio of wines. Vanessa also is developing the VH series, a group of $20-$30 wines aimed at fine dining restaurants and upscale retail outlets. One label, Bellisima, represents a group of Italian wines and is available now in New York, New Jersey, Connecticut and Georgia. Two more labels will be out early in 2007; Moxie, a Shiraz and sparkling Shiraz from Australia and Jolie, a white blend and a Cabernet Sauvignon made by Dry Creek Vineyards. Smart, beautiful and passionate about wine, Vanessa Hoelsher seems to have the world at tips of her manicured fingers. However, her proud father thinks her determination may be what sets her apart. “Vanessa is a very focused young lady. If she sets her mind to something, she will get it.”
The Unknown
Umbrian Making outrageously good wine with a mostly unknown Italian grape, Marco Caprai hit the American wine market running Vanessa Hoelsher imports more than one wine label that boasts an intriguing winemaker but none with the rags-to-riches panache of Marco Caprai. Caprai may not be as practiced as Hoelsher at turning heads, but he’s getting there. Since the esteemed Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate gave a 97-point score to Caprai’s DOCG wine—the 2000 Sagrantino di Montefalco, 25 Anni— business has picked up. All the attention is not a natural thing for a guy from the Umbrian region of Italy which rests Southeast of Tuscany. Those rich neighbors have outshone Umbria’s winemakers for years, but all that may be changing thanks to Caprai’s family business, the Arnaldo Caprai winery. Visiting Wine Report’s Atlanta office, Caprai led the editorial staff through a tasting of several of his wines including a Sagrantino di Montefalco which boasts savory cinnamon, clove and ginger flavors. As infectious as his wines’ flavor is his enthusiasm for them. With a wry and tired smile, he pleasantly scolds an editor who misspoke the name of one of his labels. “You must say, “di Montefalco” with Sagrantino. That is the way you must say it. It is not the grape alone but also Montefalco.” In the end, trust us. With wines this good, Caprai can afford to be a little particular.
“I love this business,” she says. “The people are so colorful and interesting. If you go to a wine trade show, it’s so different than going to a trade show for Home Depot or for golf. Or even radio. They’re fun.”
“Playboy opened doors for me and it was an incredible experience.” – Vanessa Hoelsher All text by Steve Stevens, Vanessa Hoelsher photograph, Chris Rank { 28 } wine report // february : : march 2007
Courtesy of Cantina Arnaldo Caprai
In fact radio is where Vanessa got her modeling start, appearing on more than 40 billboards for an Atlanta station’s morning show. Then a friend’s husband who already shot pictures for Playboy magazine got Vanessa in front of
to maybe
from no …
10 love-inducing wine and food matches t e x t : S t e v e S t e v e n s & M ik e P a t r ick
f ood pho t o s : C h r i s R a nk
With these 10 love-inducing wine and food matches, even the most bored couples can make that special dinner really special Wine was made for food. But understanding how those two fated lovers make it work can be as challenging as playing Cupid. The wine drinking public used to think the rules were simple. Red wine with red meat, white wine with poultry and seafood. Eventually they realized that, like people, wine and food were much too complicated to be governed by such a grand oversimplification. This was going to take some looking into. Luckily for romantics everywhere, wine and food had already been dating for centuries and understood each other pretty well. The kinks were worked out, the rough patches smoothed over. In cities, saloons and farmhouses from Paris to Santiago, winemakers and locals knew which of their foods went with which of their wines. The generations before them did the experimenting and had already found the magic. But what is that magic? Where does it come from? There’s no denying that extraordinary permutations of flavor and history elevate some wines, foods and of course places to mythical standing within the lexicon of love. For many, London and Paris have the magic. Chocolate and caviar have it. And Bordeaux and Champagne certainly have it. Despite those myths and legends of romance, whatever magic turns up in our love life is ultimately of our own making. Any food and wine pairing can be romantic if the company is right. Stale Ritz crackers and Cheez Whiz are magical if that special someone is there to enjoy it with you. So use this list as a set of suggestions, not a set of rules because in the end the most important ingredient in the recipe for romance isn’t in the dish or glass in front of you. It’s in the person seated with you at the table.
wine report // february : : march 2007 { 31 }
No.5 Pairing:
Figs and Prosecco
Italy’s Prosecco is an affordable sparkling wine and has a history of being very popular with Italian women. The best—of Proseccos and Italian women, we think— have a touch of sweetness. And here’s a little history: the fig tree was the first tree mentioned in the biblical tale of Adam and Eve. In fact, some scholars think the fig was the forbidden fruit, not the apple.
No.4 Pairing:
Fondue and Chasselas
Fondue is a perfect dish for two lovers to share, nibble and feed each other. And we have the Swiss to thank for it. In its most classic style, it’s made with a little wine, garlic and gruyere cheese. Swiss Chasselas wine is the most natural match for a traditional fondue, though it’s hard to find because the Swiss drink most of it themselves. A good substitute is white Bordeaux or Chenin Blanc; the minerality pairs with the nutty earthiness of gruyere.
No.3 pairing:
Foie gras or Blue cheese with Sauternes
Ah, Sauternes. Where would this list be without France’s most famous sweet white wine? The idea of pairing uber-richness with uber-richness makes this one of the most decadent and grand pairings, a complete food and wine marriage with both bleu cheese and foie gras. Also, Sauternes is capable of aging 50 years or more. In case you’re missing the irony, that means it’ll outlast most relationships.
No.10 pairing:
Empanadas and South American wines
Empanadas are basically stuffed pastries. What they’re stuffed with varies from place to place but can include ground beef, cumin and olives. The Chileans love to pair theirs with the seductive, rich Cabernet and Merlot of the region. Argentineans go with Malbec. In any case, what would a romantic food and wine list be without something from the steamy, Latin cultures of South America?
no.9 pairing:
Coq au vin and red Burgundy
Pinot Noir’s ethereal aromas are a borderline aphrodisiac anyway and Pinots are ideal with game birds as well as the chicken in a classic coq au vin. Enjoying this pair with your significant other is the next best thing to being in Burgundy on a clear spring day with a bottle of a local red. This oozes Old World romanticism and history like no other coupling on our list.
No.8 pairing:
Cheesecake with Muscats
Wine and food pairings are usually done by matching flavor and weight: delicate to delicate, sweet to sweet, rich to rich, hearty to hearty. This pairing works so well because high fat food calls for a wine that’s fat and rich to go with it. And come on, what’s more fatty and romantic than cheesecake?
No.2 pairing:
Chocolate & Port
No.7 pairing:
Chocolate ice cream with Australian ports
According to the sommeliers we spoke with, this is a hot new romantic trend popping up on menus in the hippest bistros. Aussie ports have markedly different qualities than their Portuguese counterparts due mostly to the soil and climate differences between Portugal and Australia. Whatever the reason the pairing works, this dessert can make for a decadent prelude to an intimate evening.
No.6 pairing:
Sushi and sparkling wine
The newbie on the block, this pairing speaks to the relatively recent popularity of sushi bars as first date spots. Dry or sweet sparklers pair well with a little wasabi, the brininess of the fish, and the starchiness of the rice. Also, a little soy sauce goes well with the supple acidity of a good California sparkler.
VALRHONA CHOCOLATE CREAM P I E
Thought to be an aphrodisiac by the Aztecs (yes, it’s been around that long), chocolate holds a special place in the hearts of the world’s women and their suitors. But chocolate is not traditionally paired with wine by any means. In fact, it’s a major challenge to find a wine that can match chocolate’s natural sweetness. Lately though, people have been picking up on this coupling with one port producer claiming “there is no equal” to the chocolate and port pairing. Ruby ports work best; maybe it’s their Valentine’s Day red color.
Aria’s chef Gerry Klaskala’s Bloody Mary Oysters are a decadent and delicious partner for a glass of Champagne.
More Help Marrying delicious food to the perfect beverage elevates the whole eating experience, but doing it alone is almost impossible. Luckily you don’t have to.
No.1 Pairi ng:
Oysters & Champagne
With the new book, What to Drink with What You Eat, authors Andrew Dorenburg and Karen Page created a pairing bible that helps you get the best out of every meal. With advice from more than 70 top wine experts, chefs and other connoisseurs, Dorenburg and Page offer us a food and beverage thesaurus covering more than 1,500 categories, including 17 different cuisine and 100 cheeses. The guide also works in reverse, allowing readers to search by beverage to find the perfect food, and even includes advice on stocking up with the right beverages to ensure you’re prepared for virtually any occasion. With this definitive guide, you’ll be well on the way to taking every meal from mere sustenance to succulence.
Picking number one on this list was easy. Champagne is the world’s definitive celebratory drink and oysters are the world’s most famous aphrodisiac. What better pairing to celebrate love and romance? In some circles, caviar is thought to be a better match, but no one we know travels in those circles. After caviar and Champagne, you might not be able to afford the movie. In any case, the salty brininess of the oyster has an almost passionate affinity for the sleek, romantic crispness of France’s famous bubbly. If you don’t get lucky with this combination, you need some serious help.
More resources for matching wine and food: > The book Perfect Pairings by Evan Goldstein takes a sommelier’s look at key flavors in wine and then suggests foods that will complement them. Buy it on amazon.com. > The Wisconsin Cheese and Dairy Web site (www.wisdairy. com) offers food pairing advice on every cheese from Asia go to Swiss. > The Beer Advocate (http://beeradvocate.com/beer/style_ pairings/) seeks to educate its visitors with beer and food pairing suggestions, along with general tips on getting the most flavors out of your lager, stout or ale. > Even teetotalers get set with the New World Tea Web site (www.newworldtea.com/teafoodpairings.htm) that lists of food pairings for teas. -Jaymi Curley
notes:
The food pictures in this article were taken at Aria restaurant in the Buckhead area of Atlanta. Aria’s chef and managing partner Gerry Klaskala and his staff graciously allowed us to shoot the pictures
aria WHERE: 490 East Paces Ferry Atlanta, Georgia 30305 Phone: 404-233-7673 www.aria-atl.com
{ 34 } wine report // february : : march 2007
HOURS: Monday through Saturday, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.
there and provided the food. Klaskala made his Bloody Mary Oysters (opposite page) with an original cocktail sauce and bits of cucumber. He served them in a tall shot glass rimmed with tagarashi, a blend of Japanese spices. Aria’s pastry chef Kathryn King made her gorgeous Valrhona Chocolate Cream Pie (shown on previous 2 pages) with softly whipped cream and chocolate sauce.
wine report // february : : march 2007 { 35 }
Wine Merchants Guide
The South’s finest wine shops, stores and specialty grocers this month in
{ re v i e w s }
Out-Frenching the French In the annals of wine’s modern history, 1976 is the year the wave of French dominance in the world’s fine wine market broke and started rolling backward. Steven Spurrier, a British wine merchant then working in Paris, organized a blind tasting pitting California Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons against their French counterparts. Spurrier later claimed to have tried rigging the tasting for the French although the French cognoscenti felt no rigging would have been necessary. After all, the overwhelming and prevailing wisdom was that no American wine could compete with France’s best. Subsequently, when the French judges accorded the top awards to the United States, the reaction from the French wine community was unified and virulent. It accused the Americans of cheating and accused Spurrier of the same. One of the judges even tried to change her scores after the fact. Most won’t discuss the event even today. Essentially, the French refused to believe what the world market would so convincingly state over the Essentially, the French refused to believe what the next thirty years— that California wines had world market would so convincingly state over the arrived, and given an opportunity, they could next thirty years— that California wines had arrived, stand up to and defeat even Bordeaux’s best.
and given an opportunity, they could stand up to and defeat even Bordeaux’s best.
Of course the world dynamic is much different now than it was in 1976. Napa Valley is no longer “the little engine that could,” and the failings of the French in both their reluctant marketing strategies and the general quality of their wines have been recognized not simply by the Americans and the Australians but by the French themselves. So the times, they are a-changing; but exactly how much are they changed? Now passed the thirtyyear mark of that American triumph in Paris, we chose to peruse wines from both America’s and France’s most famous regions for this issue’s tastings. We also looked at some splendid offerings from Italy’s Chianti and also red wines from Languedoc, a nascent and dramatically improved AOC in the South of France. Tasters found a lot of excellent value among the Bordeaux and Chianti and impressive muscle and quality in the Napa Meritage. Regrettably, as in virtually all the top wines from Napa nowadays, you’ll have to pay sweetly for the privilege. Despite that, we certainly can’t in good conscience complain. After all, what satisfaction would come from victory if the victors couldn’t savor the spoils?
W i n e R ep o r t ’ s
Rating System
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All wines are tasted blind in our Atlanta office by a panel of four to six tasters. Qualified tasters must meet criteria set out by the magazine. The wines are rated on a weighted 100-point scale in four categories: appearance (5%), aroma (20%), taste (60%) and food friendliness (15%). To gauge a wine’s food friendliness, panelists taste the wine with roasted chicken for white wines or rare roast beef for red wines. Once the tasters have completed their sensory evaluation of the wines, they are given the price of the wines so they can determine whether the wine is an exceptional value, overpriced or neither. In case of a tie, the editorial staff makes a determination. Tasters are not allowed to change their comments or scores once the prices have been announced. Wines are selected based on their availability in the Atlanta, Charlotte and Birmingham areas. In most cases, the wines reviewed are available in at least one of the three cities. The prices listed are suggested retail prices provided by the winery, winery representative or distributor.
Our Point
Sy s t em 90 to 100 Points: Outstanding 80 to 89 Points: Very Good 70 to 79 Points: Average 60 to 69 Points: Flawed
2003 Miner Family Vineyards, The Oracle (Napa Valley) Heady, full aromas of cherry, smoke, eucalyptus and cassis waft up from this deep, intense ruby-colored wine. Rich and full-bodied. A mouthful of roasted coffee bean, black cherry, plum, chocolate and pepper flavors evolve on the palate in the long finish. This wine was made for roast duck with orange sauce.
2001 Tiziano, Riserva, Chianti, Italy
2004 Vignetti di Campomaggio, Chianti Classico, Italy
The following label reproductions are paid advertisements although an impartial tasting panel produced the reviews and scores contained therein.
2003 Franciscan Oakville Estate, Magnificat (Napa Valley) A great Meritage that starts with aromas of spicy red jams and smoky dried blue fruit. The palate offers a blast of mouth-watering sweet cherry, fresh-picked blackberry, tobacco, roasted coffee and leather. Wait to drink, or decant and pair with a rich food.
This dark garnet-ruby wine has ripe Sangiovese aromas of strawberry, plum and raisin. Rich, full flavors of black raspberry, black pepper, cedar and clove balance with lip-smacking tannins. Pair with traditional Italian meat and pasta dishes.
Deep ruby in color, this wine releases aromas of tobacco, smoke and hazelnut. Full flavors of cherry, earth and raspberry are ready to drink now but could get better with some time in the cellar. For a savory treat, try this one with grilled pizza with sausage.
91 points
91 points
93 points
93 points
2003 Vignetti di Campomaggio, Riserva, Chianti Classico, Italy
2003 Terlato Vineyards, Angel’s Peak (Napa Valley)
Clean, almost opaque eggplant in color, this wine offers rich, smoky aromas of plum, eucalyptus and violet; a rich, full body with firm acidity, supple tannins and savory notes of chocolate, cherry and raspberry on the palate. Grilled salmon or amberjack would do the trick.
Heady aromas of stewed plums, coffee and pepper govern the nose of this eggplant-colored wine. Succulent flavors of bell pepper, cherry, raspberry and jammy strawberry are well integrated with friendly tannins. Big wine needs big food, so try a porterhouse with garlic mashed potatoes.
92 points
92 points
2003 L’ostal Cazes, Minervois la Lavinière, France Offers up chewy roasted black-fruit aromas with baked earth and jammy red fruit. Either decant for an hour or give it a couple of years for its formidable tannins to relax their hold on the raisin fruit and ground pepper spice. Try with roast venison with garlic mashed potatoes.
92 points
2001 Tiziano Gold, Chianti Classico, Italy
An intense garnet color and good legs; sharp aromas of wood, vanilla and oak open nicely to well-integrated tannins and flavors of dried fruit, raspberry and pepper. A roast duck with prunes or plums will open up this Italian beauty.
2002 St. Supéry, Élu (Napa Valley)
This dark plum-colored wine has savory aromas of tobacco, red fruits and licorice. Rich flavors of red and black berry, eucalyptus and vanilla meld with a velvety mouthfeel and firm tannins. Try with tournedos of beef topped with garlic butter.
91 points
91 points
2003 Lassègue, Grand Cru, Saint-Émilion, France
2003 HdV Wines, Napa Valley Red Wine (Napa Valley) 2003 Rocca delle Macie, Riserva, Chianti Classico, Italy
Clean, pronounced and youthful aromas of mint, cherry, chocolate and spice rise from this intensely ruby-red wine. Big flavors of cherry, cassis, chocolate and cedar move through a lingering finish. Perfect for a rack of venison.
Summary: Youthful, stone-tinged aromas of cherry, plum and raisin; moderate tannins with succulent flavors of red fruit, wood, chocolate, mint and sour cherries carry out to a long, smooth, vanilla-filled finish. Pair with osso buco or veal Parmesan.
92 points
91 points
2003 Da Vinci, Riserva, Chianti, Italy
2002 Arcturus, Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)
Summary: A deep eggplant purple, this wine smells of blackberry, black cherry, mushroom, vanilla, allspice and leather. Pleasantly dry with full flavors of oak, strawberry, blackberry and coffee bean. Muscular tannins lead to a long, complex finish. Serve with braised lamb shanks for a match made in heaven.
Summary: A deep, intense garnet color, this wine offers aromas of earth, cassis, black raspberry and cloves. Berry-rich flavors include blueberry, blackberry and dark cherry. Dry with moderate acidity, this well-balanced wine finishes strong. Try with seared or roasted beef or lamb.
92 points
92 points
91 points
2003 Château Vignot, Grand Cru, Saint-Émilion, France
2004 Da Vinci, Chianti Classico, Italy
Summary: Deep garnet with soft aromas of earthy black berry and sweet red cherry, cradled in a blanket of bitter chocolate. The texture is smooth as silk, with a tight weave of tannins that support luscious fruits, black pepper and enough spice to hold up to a rosemary-crusted leg of lamb.
Summary: Powerful in its black ruby-red appearance, this wine displays aromas of black superripe fruit and cooking spices with sour cherry. Opens up into huge cherry notes supported by plum, licorice and coffeespice that wrap around smooth tannins for a fine finish. Calls for a big, thick grilled rib eye with a side of garlic spinach.
91 points
91 points
- s p e c i a l a dv e r t i s i n g s e c t i o n -
Summary: Subtle and refined in its brick-red appearance, with scents of dusty mushroom, dried holiday fruits and fresh-ground espresso beans. Elegant and enduring flavors of cherry fruit, pomegranate and chocolate. Serve with grilled red meat.
- s p e c i a l a dv e r t i s i n g s e c t i o n -
The following label reproductions are paid advertisements although an impartial tasting panel produced the reviews and scores contained therein.
2005 Straccali, Chianti, Italy
2004 Sequoia Grove, Chardonnay (Napa Valley)
Clean, prominent aromas of Bing cherry, vanilla and raisins are up front in this garnet-colored beauty. Flavors of strawberry, raisin and clove ride medium tannins to a pleasing medium-length finish. Knock this one back with wild boar ragout or beef ravioli.
This big, buttery wine shows off a classic California style, with its toasted spice and tropical fruit aromas. Its full-bodied approach provides a mouthful of creamy butterscotch, citrus peels and grilled peach. Great for a brunch with smoked salmon sandwiches.
90 points
2003 Château de Launay, Bordeaux Supérieur, France
2002 Château de L’Abbaye de Saint Ferme, Les Vignes du Soir, Bordeaux Supérieur, France
Brick red with a cherry-purple core, this wine has aromas of rich roasted cherry and mild cocoa. Still young but with great potential. Firm tannins support smoky notes of red berry and leather. Medium rare game meat would pair well; try duck.
This wine shows a brick rim and a deep red core; aromas were of roasted cherry, cinnamon and clove. Tannins slightly overwhelm the fruit, but blackberry, cocoa and spice show on the finish. Serve rich meats like roasted pork or leg of lamb.
90 points
88 points
90 points 2001 Castello di Querceto, Riserva, Chianti Classico, Italy
2005 Miner Family Vineyards, Chardonnay (Napa Valley)
2004 Newton Vineyard, Unfiltered Chardonnay (Napa Valley)
Subtle lemon yellow in color. Aromas of apple blossoms, minerals, citrus and tropical fruit lead to flavors of citrus, butter, apple and especially oak on the long finish. Baked grouper or pheasant would match this wine’s personality.
A clean straw yellow, this wine has aromas of tropical fruit and apricot. The fruits also appeared on the palate, along with flavors of green apple, honey and lime zest.A balanced medium-to-long finish. Pair with a medium-weight fish like snapper.
2002 Domaine Famille Lingères, Notre Dame, Corbières, France
A very deep garnet-ruby color. Aromas of tobacco, pepper and cherry are still developing. A round mouthfeel and dark fruit with vanilla on the medium-long finish. Perfect with grilled or roasted red meats or chicken paella.
90 points
90 points
A dark brick-red cherry color; warm aromas of strawberry, plummy cocoa and smoky bacon. Flavors match the scents, along with an acidity that pushes through and quenches the palate. Blue cheese and potato gratin would be majestic with this wine.
90 points
89 points
2005 Franciscan Oakville Estate, Chardonnay (Napa Valley) A clear lemon hue pulls you into the aromatic depths of tropical fruit, floral essence and peppery warmth, while the clean line of acidity balances out layers of green melon, fresh-cut herbs and Meyer lemon. Throw some shrimp and veggies on the grill to serve with this one.
2005 Hess Collection Winery, Su’skol Vineyard, Chardonnay (Napa Valley) Gentle yellow with a clear rim, this wine boasts aromas of creamy vanilla, toast and tropical fruits. Wonderful balance, healthy acidity and a medium body with flavors of mild minerals and almonds. Go for roast chicken with a creambased white sauce.
90 points
90 points
2002 Domaine Famille Lignères, Las Vals, Corbières, France This pale yellow wine draws you in with aromas of ripe, peppery peach, exotic spice and sweet summer fruits. Heart-warming flavors of smooth minerality, tropical fruit and floral essence refresh the palate. Enjoy with lobster tails fresh off the grill.
2002 Domaine Famille Lignères, Pièce de Roche, France Energetic aromas of black pepper spice, fresh ground coffee and ripe jammy fruit rise from the glass. Plush tannins caress the palate with bittersweet spice, cocoa, earthy fruits and stone before exiting. A simple piece of charred red meat or braised short ribs would do the trick.
90 points
90 points 2002 Domaine Famille Lignères, Cabanon de Pascal, Corbières, France Redolence of summer plums, cherry cola and smoky dried red fruits on the nose lead to alluring earthy fruit, pepper, spice and roasted black fruits on the palate. Go with a southern-France-style beef stew or a gourmet blue cheese burger.
2004 Newton Vineyard Chardonnay (Napa Valley)
2002 Domaine Famille Lingères, Aric, Corbières, France
A clear straw yellow. Light aromas of green apples, honey and oak dominate. Flavors of bread crust, oak and vanilla make for a big, mouth-filling wine, ready to drink now. Chicken piccata would do the trick.
A fresh and lively fragrance of baked red cherries, stony minerality and earthy black fruit captures your attention, along with flavors of blackberries and wild mushrooms. Try with braised lamb leg with rosemary white beans.
88 points
89 points
2005 Da Vinci, Chianti, Italy 2005 Waterstone Vintners, Chardonnay (Carneros, Calif.) A classic California style, with warm aromas of vanilla bean, toast and mild citrus. Subtle, full-bodied flavors of toasted pine nuts, lemons, and tropical fruits fade into a mild poachedpear finish. Serve with broiled halibut brushed with olive oil.
88 points
90 points - s p e c i a l a dv e r t i s i n g s e c t i o n -
- s p e c i a l a dv e r t i s i n g s e c t i o n -
A deep purple color greets you before aromas of woody tobacco, walnuts and dried cherry invite you in. The texture of dusty tannins shelters flavors of earthy red fruits, spice and sun-dried tomatoes. Serve with fresh pasta and herb pesto.
89 points
91
{re views}
2003 Lassègue, Grand Cru,
Saint-Émilion, France
$50
POINTS
Bordeaux … 42
Chianti … 48
91
2003 Château Barreyres, Cru Bourgeois Haut-Médoc, France
$20
POINTS A clear, dark plum-colored wine, with aromas of black cherry, cigar box and dark chocolate. Pepper, leather and a velvety mouthfeel carry through to a medium-to-long finish. Osso buco, lamb loin or a New York strip would make great partners for this wine.
91
2001 Château Grange-Neuve, Pomerol, France
2003 Château Pailhas, Grand Cru,
Saint-Émilion, France
$32
2001 Château Taillefer,
$43
POINTS A clear, intense garnet with clean aromas of cigar box, cherry and vanilla. Rich flavors of blueberry, blackberry and stewed cherry permeate a full body through to a medium finish. Mouthfeel is smooth and dry. Try with roast leg of lamb with a red fruit glaze.
91
POINTS
90 90
2003 Château de Launay,
Pessac-Léognan, France
Bordeaux Supérieur, France
$24
2003 Château Vignot, Grand Cru,
Saint-Émilion, France
Deep garnet with soft aromas of earthy black berry and sweet red cherry, cradled in a blanket of bitter chocolate. The texture is smooth as silk, with a tight weave of tannins that support luscious fruits, black pepper and enough spice to hold up to a rosemary-crusted leg of lamb.
{ 42 } wine report // february : : march 2007
90
90
$18
90
$24
Bordeaux Supérieur, France
$16
$19
Deep garnet with a ruby rim, this wine has aromas of currant, blackberry, wood and oak. Flavors of blackberry, nutmeg and unripe strawberry make for a perfect complement to a New York strip steak.
$64
POINTS
90
90
2001 La Bastide Dauzac,
France
$18
POINTS
Gorgeous scents of cherry and raisin arise from this highly affordable Bordeaux. The palate carries persistent acidity and simple but extremely elegant flavors of plummy fruits, dried cherries, and wet rock from river beds. An easy match for any kind of stewed meat dishes.
90 89
Margaux, France
$30
2001 Tour des Laurets,
Puisseguin-Saint-Émilion, France
$27
The Royal Tokaji Wine Company For hundreds of years, the great wines of Tokaji (toh-KAY) enjoyed a regal reputation. In the 17th Century, Louis XIV of France called Tokaji “the wine of kings and the King of Wine.” In the 18th Century, Catherine the Great stationed soldiers in Tokaji to protect the vineyards. World Wars I and II and the subsequent communist governments in Hungary destroyed Tokaji wines, but reinvestment by the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, whose payroll sports such wine luminaries as Ben Howkins and wine writer Hugh Johnson is the main reason why. Mr. Howkins tasted through his wines with Wine Report’s editorial staff and here are the results. As you can see by the scores, these wines are back with a vengeance.
1995 Château Simard,
Saint-Émilion, France
POINTS This brick-red wine has a complex nose of red fruit, tobacco and cassis. Dry with high acid and medium tannins. Notes of sour cherry, cedar and smoke will complement the succulence of beef tenderloin or a juicy prime rib.
96
POINTS
2004 Château Bonnet,
Bordeaux, France
$13
EXCELLENT VALUE
A deep purple eggplant color, this wine smells of candied apples and a little bit of bubble gum. Flavors of Bing cherry, oak and vanilla make for a simple but satisfying treat. Hard cheese would make a tasty accompaniment.
89
2000 Château Grand Bert,
89
2002 Château les Tuileries,
Saint-Émilion, France
$24
Deep ruby with a dark center. Aromas of smoke, mushroom and earth introduce flavors of cherry, cedar and black fruits. Balanced with muscular tannins; can drink now, but will age well. A wild game stew will stand up to this one nicely.
Bordeaux, France
$13
A clear, intense garnet color. Aromas of earth, smoke and spice usher in flavors of toast, chalk, tobacco and sour cherry. Medium acid and alcohol finish off a medium chalky finish. A big, savory beef dish will be a perfect mate.
$30
89
Bordeaux, France
POINTS With a deep ruby center, this wine has aromas of blackberry, cherry and jam. Flavorful notes of cherry, blackberry, mushroom and pepper mix with moderate acidity and weight. Try with prime rib or a game dish.
$54
POINTS
1996 Tokaji Aszú, 6 Puttonyos, Nyulászó, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company
$77
Elegant in its golden honey appearance, a stimulating array of citrus zest, grilled apricots, tobacco and yeasty toast aromas fill the nose. Smoky spice, fresh herbs and spring wild flower flavors find perfect support from a balanced and spirited acidity that feels and finishing long and clean, leaving you wanting much more. Try some classic French blues or other soft cheeses.
90
POINTS
1996 Tokaji Aszú, 6 Puttonyos, Nyulászó, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company
$67
Black volcanic soils are said to be behind the rich aromatic notes of mineral, caramel, sweet dried fruits and baked pineapple. On the palate, a pure sense of joy with brilliant flavors of baked apples, sweet spice and candied lemon peel. For pairings try with Swiss chocolates.
EXCELLENT VALUE
1999 Château Malmaison, Cru Bourgeois,
1996 Tokaji Aszú, 6 Puttonyos, Nyulászó, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company
The red clays of Mád manifest in a symphony of balmy sweet citrus, stone fruits and honey glazed figs. Beautifully balanced with mouthwatering acidity, flavors of smoky earth, dried citrus peals and rum-soaked raisin sweep across the tongue with velvety grace. No need for dessert when you’re pouring this.
95
POINTS
POINTS
A teeth-staining dark purple, this wine boasts aromas of coffee, petrol and berries. Dry, silky and full in the palate with black raspberries, plums and menthol flavors. Will age nicely. Try with almost any roasted meat or hard white cheese.
$35
EXCELLENT VALUE
2003 Jean Pierre Moueix, Saint-Émilion,
POINTS
EXCELLENT VALUE
Margaux, France
$13
Fragrant aromas of chocolate-covered cherry, mineral and black fruit drift from this deep ruby-colored wine. Dry, fruity flavors of red berry, cassis and vanilla carry hints of cedar and coffee through to a medium finish. Go for grilled lamb chops.
POINTS
90
POINTS
2003 Château LaBarthe,
2004 Château Lascombes, Grand Cru Classé,
A deep brick-ruby red with aromas of black raspberry, vanilla and cassis. Rich flavors of cherry, cranberry, chocolate and tobacco ride a medium body and acids through to a smooth, pleasing medium-length finish. Try with hard cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano.
Pessac-Léognan, France
Haut-Médoc, France
Bordeaux Supérieur, France
Spotlight on…
90
POINTS
2002 Château de Rochemorin,
2001 Château Larose-Trintaudon, Cru Bourgeois,
2003 Château Trocard,
A deep brick color with intense aromas of cocoa and tobacco. Heavy notes of black pepper and dried fruit with hints of eucalyptus and green beans. Medium-long finish with good aging potential. Excellent match with moderately spiced red meats.
This deep ruby-colored wine has a fresh berry nose of blackberry, cherry and raspberry, followed by bone-dry flavors of berries, pepper, raisin and cocoa. Thick tannins now, but they should mellow with age. This wine wants a thick cut of beef.
A deep ruby-colored wine with rich, fragrant aromas of cigar box, big cherry and cassis. Full flavors of red fruit with notes of bell pepper and vanilla fill the nose and balance persistent tannins. Try with beef tips simmered in mushroom sauce.
Pomerol, France
EXCELLENT VALUE
2002 Château de Cruzeau,
POINTS
POINTS
91
POINTS
Deep ruby with an opaque center. Tight aromas of vanilla, cedar and cherry; thick tannins; flavors of smoke, oak and red berries. Will show best in 2-3 years, but enjoyable now with a roasted tenderloin or rack of lamb.
POINTS An intense garnet, with earthy tones of black fruit, tobacco and oak permeating the nose. A dry wine with chalky tastes of nutmeg, smoke and black fruit, this would pair agreeably with grilled red meats or aged cheese and fruit.
91
$13
POINTS
$40
$30
90
Bordeaux Supérieur, France
POINTS Brick red with a cherry-purple core, this wine has aromas of rich roasted cherry and mild cocoa. Still young but with great potential. Firm tannins support smoky notes of red berry and leather. Medium rare game meat would pair well; try duck.
Red Bordeaux
90
2003 Château Cadillac,
POINTS A clear, bright garnet with aromas of cedar, pepper and licorice. Flavors of black tea, black cherries, oak and vanilla precede a dry, balanced wine with a medium finish. Break out the hard cheeses or roasted or grilled beef or lamb.
Languedoc Reds … 52
Saint-Émilion, France
POINTS Clear garnet color, with aromas of black cherry, violets and cloves. Tough tannins hold up flavors of black cherry, black tea, cola, smoke and tobacco. Will improve with time, but beef or game meats make a good match now.
Moderately intense aromas of stewed fruit, green pepper, asparagus and black pepper lead to flavors of cherry, vanilla, tobacco and strawberry. Medium tannins and mild acid make for balanced flavors and a pleasant mouthfeel. Go for roasted pork or lamb.
Napa Chardonnay … 46
2001 Château Trimoulet, Grand Cru,
Subtle and refined in its brick-red appearance, with scents of dusty mushroom, dried holiday fruits and fresh-ground espresso beans. Elegant and enduring flavors of cherry fruit, pomegranate and chocolate. Serve with grilled red meat.
POINTS
Napa Meritage … 45
90
$21
99
1995 Tokaji Aszú, 6 Puttonyos, Mézes Mály, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company
$115
POINTS
Try this one and you’ll understand why these wines have been around since the 17th century. The nose has a lovely glut of concentrated, caramelized fruits. Sweet, fresh honey merge with orange blossoms laced with sugary elegance. The palate is a sea of white peach, earthy-toast, and baked apples embraced by a perfectly balanced, riveting acidity. The finish went on for what seemed like hours. Food will just get in the way of this one, so enjoy with great company. It will leave you speechless.
wine report // february : : march 2007 { 43 }
{re views}
89
1998 Château Plagnac, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc, France
$15
88
Médoc, France
88
POINTS
France
$11
$15
POINTS
An opaque plum color, this wine offers aromas of blackberry, currant and violet. The palate reveals rich texture, strong tannins and flavors of deep blackberry and hints of blueberry. Will age well; can drink now with a marbled steak.
88
POINTS
2003 Château de Pintey, Bordeaux Supérieur, France
88
POINTS
Médoc, France
88
France
$15
$22
$12
This reddish-purple wine sports aromas of dust, blackberry and cassis. Flavors are of sour cherry, oak and green bell pepper, with a hint of bacon. Firm tannins are balanced with acids; finish is medium-short. Go for beef Wellington.
87
France
POINTS
A clear ruby red, aromas of black cherry, cedar and pepper surrounded flavors of black cherry and tobacco. Medium acid and tannins held the dark fruit through to a medium finish. Stewed beef will be the perfect match.
France
$25
90
2002 Château Bonnet, Bordeaux,
Médoc, France
$24
POINTS A medium golden hue with good legs, this wine has maturing exotic aromas of toast, coconut and citrus. Crisply acidic, with complex flavors of citrus, oak and toast. A sautéed sole in a lemon butter sauce will match the acid and weight.
France
$12
EXCELLENT VALUE
89
2005 Château Haut Rian, Bordeaux,
France
$11
89
2005 Château les Tuileries, Bordeaux, France
93
2000 Burgess Estate Vineyard, Enveiere
93
2003 Davies & Gamble, Source Napa, Paramount
$13
POINTS
This pale yellow wine has complex aromas of gooseberry, citrus and oak. Lively acid and elegant flavors of citrus and violet carry through a medium-length finish. Try as an aperitif with white cheese, crackers and fruit.
2003 Davies & Gamble, Source Napa, Heritage Sites
A deep, intense garnet color, this wine offers aromas of earth, cassis, black raspberry and cloves. Berry-rich flavors include blueberry, blackberry and dark cherry. Dry with moderate acidity, this well-balanced wine finishes strong. T ry with seared or roasted beef or lamb.
(Napa Valley)
POINTS This brick-red winner has fresh, clean aromas of vanilla, strawberry, cocoa and cedar. Evolving, complex flavors of clove, pepper, chocolate, jam, fig and cherry are well integrated with a velvety mouthfeel and mature but still muscular tannins. You’ll need a big piece of beef to stand up to this monster.
$50
(Napa Valley)
We take your soul to Italy, without leaving your bank account in ruins. $48
POINTS An opaque eggplant-colored wine. Clean aromas of black currant, cloves, raisins and figs are prominent; vibrant flavors of cocoa, cedar, black cherry, tobacco and oak on the palate. Dry with moderate acid, medium tannins and a complex finish. A seared rib eye could prove a match for this one.
(Napa Valley)
$75
POINTS
93
2003 Franciscan Oakville Estate, Magnificat (Napa Valley)
Portugal
California
I TA LY
Germany
Australia
France
Austria
Chile
Spain
South Africa
$45
A great Meritage that starts with aromas of spicy red jams POINTS and smoky dried blue fruit. The palate offers a blast of mouth-watering sweet cherry, fresh-picked blackberry, tobacco, roasted coffee and leather. Wait to drink, or decant and pair with a rich food.
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$11
87
POINTS
2004 Premius, Bordeaux,
France
$10
A clear lemon in color, this wine offers prominent aromas of grapefruit, oak and petrol. Slight flavors of sour apples and toast finished long, with medium body. Match with almost any white-wine-friendly food, from grilled veggies to boiled fish.
85
POINTS
This wine, straw yellow in color, smelled and tasted strongly of fresh-cut grass. Balanced but simple with a short finish. A fresh plate of raw veggies and hummus could perk it up.
(Napa Valley)
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$65
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Heady, full aromas of cherry, smoke, eucalyptus and cassis waft up from this deep, intense ruby-colored wine. Rich and full-bodied. A mouthful of roasted coffee bean, black cherry, plum, chocolate and pepper flavors evolve on the palate in the long finish. This wine was made for roast duck with orange sauce. POINTS
2002 Château de Launay, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France
93
2003 Miner Family Vineyards, The Oracle
$20
93
2003 St. Clements Vineyards, Oroppas
(Napa Valley)
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$50
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POINTS
An exquisite royal purple, this wine pours out aromas of mint-tinged berries, melted dark chocolate, leather and rose petal. A clean line of acidity and velvet tannins touch off flavors of oaky plums, black currant, mint and prune. For a special occasion, serve with slow-smoked ribs or grilled steak. CRISP
{ 44 } wine report // february : : march 2007
$39
$50
Rich, intense fragrances of cassis, green beans, black fruit and earth dominate the nose on this deep garnet-colored wine. Tempting flavors of black cherry, raspberry, rose petals and spice ride a rich, full mouthfeel to a long and developing finish. Go for a skirt steak with pommes frites.
POINTS Clear, pale lemon in color, with aromatic notes of citrus, honey and melon. A dry wine with delicate acidity and slender flavors of minerality, gooseberry, lemon peel and green apple. Balanced with a long finish. Try with a fresh garden salad with seared scallops.
92
(Napa Valley)
POINTS
* Although labeled as Cabernet Sauvignon, we included these wines in the Meritage reviews because they blend Cabernet Sauvignon with significant amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
2000 St. Supéry, Élu
* 2002 Arcturus, Cabernet Sauvignon
POINTS A deep garnet color. Intense aromas of fresh black fruits, vanilla, white pepper and raisin lead to a dry wine with integrated tannins and evolving flavors of bold black fruits, chocolate and cassis. Sautéed duck breast in a blackberry glaze would be a heavenly pairing.
94
(Napa Valley)
92
between $10 and $25.
POINTS
2003 Château Malbat, Bordeaux,
91
Pale yellow with a green tint, this wine smells of lemon zest, grapefruit and hints of mineral. Lively acid and prominent flavors of cut grass and unripe melon make for a smooth, fresh finish. Serve simple boiled shellfish dressed with lemon.
An opaque plum color, this wine’s aromas of blackberry, cedar and pepper lead to flavors of sour cherry, cigar box and coffee grounds, with mild gritty tannins. Try with a roast duck with a fig and shallot compote.
2002 Premius, Bordeaux,
POINTS
Napa Valley Meritage
2002 Château Loudenne, Bordeaux,
POINTS
This ruby wine shows a deep dark center and has aromas of cassis, black cherry, clove and pepper. Flavors of black cherry, cedar and raspberry compliment medium tannins and alcohol. Sip with a plate of hard French cheeses.
2001 Château Preuillac, Cru Bourgeois,
84
Light aroma notes of perfumed apple and candy; flavors of mineral and banana. Finish is short, but try a grilled white fish with a squirt of lemon.
White Bordeaux
2004 Château de Parenchère, Bordeaux Supérieur, France
$11
2003 Château de Launay, Les Vignes d’Elisa, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux,
$19
This wine shows a brick rim and a deep red core; aromas were of roasted cherry, cinnamon and clove. Tannins slightly overwhelm the fruit, but blackberry, cocoa and spice show on the finish. Serve rich meats like roasted pork or leg of lamb.
88
This cherry-red wine’s aromas of deep chocolate strawberry and ripe red raspberry introduced simple flavors of spicy plum and red cherry. The finish showed enough vigor to pair with grilled beef.
POINTS A clear, deep plum-colored wine with aromas of ripe plum, coffee grounds and menthol. Clean, dry flavors of cassis, cherry and a hint of wood lead to a short-to-medium finish. Braised duck or game hen will make a sweet treat.
2002 Château de L’Abbaye de Saint Ferme, Les Vignes du Soir, Bordeaux Supérieur
France
POINTS
Brick red, though showing its age with a slightly brown rim, this wine has pronounced aromas of aged wood, black olives and raisins. Mellowed tannins make for a smooth mouthfeel, with flavors of black cherry, cinnamon and cedar. Good with game meats. POINTS
2001 Château Greysac, Cru Bourgeois,
86
2003 Christian Moueix, Bordeaux,
SILKY
RICH
B U B B LY
FRUITY
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wine report // february : : march 2007 { 45 }
{re views} Napa Valley Chardonnay
92
2003 HdV Wines, Napa Valley Red Wine (Napa Valley)
$50
POINTS Clean, pronounced and youthful aromas of mint, cherry, chocolate and spice rise from this intensely ruby-red wine. Big flavors of cherry, cassis, chocolate and cedar move through a lingering finish. Perfect for a rack of venison.
92
2003 Terlato Vineyards, Angel’s Peak
92
2003 Trefethen Vineyards, Double T
(Napa Valley)
POINTS
$50
Heady aromas of stewed plums, coffee and pepper govern the nose of this eggplant-colored wine. Succulent flavors of bell pepper, cherry, raspberry and jammy strawberry are well integrated with friendly tannins. Big wine needs big food, so try a porterhouse with garlic mashed potatoes.
$20
POINTS Clear bright cranberry with aromas of cassis, stewed berry and cigar box. Rich, big flavors of blackberry, cassis, flecks of fresh pepper, cloves and raisins encased in a velvety mouthfeel ride out to a long, lingering finish; well-balanced. Goes with a braised lamb steak or a roast leg of lamb.
91
2004 Salvestrin Wine Company, Retaggio (Napa Valley)
91
(Napa Valley)
$29
$65
POINTS This dark plum-colored wine has savory aromas of tobacco, red fruits and licorice. Rich flavors of red and black berry, eucalyptus and vanilla meld with a velvety mouthfeel and firm tannins. Try with tournedos of beef topped with garlic butter.
90
POINTS
*2003 Mount St. Helena, Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)
$38
Fragrant notes of dust, cedar and red and black fruit float from this heady ruby-colored wine. Dry with a medium body. Exquisite flavors of cooled meat, plum, cherry and strawberry accompany smooth tannins and a silky mouthfeel. Game meats match up well with this beauty.
90
POINTS
2003 Tudal, Tractor Shed Red
(Napa Valley)
$17
EXCELLENT VALUE
A brownish ruby-colored wine with subtle aromas of strawberry, fig and oak. Flavors of cooked berry, red fruit and charred wood give a slight bite on a long finish. Smoked pork with a fruit compote will make this wine happy.
* Although labeled as Cabernet Sauvignon, we included these wines in the Meritage reviews because they blend Cabernet Sauvignon with significant amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
{ 46 } wine report // february : : march 2007
(Napa Valley)
$17
EXCELLENT VALUE
90
2004 Clos du Val, Chardonnay
90
2005 Franciscan Oakville Estate, Chardonnay
(Napa Valley)
$22
POINTS
This rich yellow wine offers tempting aromas of blended lemon, peach and pear with a touch of vanilla spice. Balanced, medium-bodied flavors of mellow citrus and fleshy green fruit interact harmoniously with plush honeyed apple on the medium-length finish. Try now with roasted squab or grilled pork chop.
POINTS
(Napa Valley)
$17
EXCELLENT VALUE
90
2005 Grgich Hills Cellar, Chardonnay (Napa Valley)
$38
POINTS This yellow beauty starts with creamy, soft, tropical notes of banana, fresh buttered popcorn and a hint of oak. Mouth-watering acidity and flavors of pear, banana custard and vanilla wafers fill the palate. Herb-roasted chicken would work wonderfully with this one.
90
2003 HdV Wines, Chardonnay
90
2005 Hess Collection Winery, Su’skol Vineyard, Chardonnay (Napa Valley)
(Carneros, Calif.)
$55
POINTS
(Napa Valley)
$26
POINTS
(Napa Valley)
90
2005 St. Clement Vineyards, Chardonnay
$28
(Napa Valley)
2004 Cuvaison Estate Wines, Chardonnay
88
2004 Newton Vineyard Chardonnay
(Napa Valley)
$23
POINTS A light, gold-colored wine, with clean aromas of green apples, toffee, caramel and vanilla. Flavors of apricot, honey and oak on a long, creamy finish make for a excellent match with a goat cheese-stuffed tenderloin.
$31
POINTS A clear, shiny yellow wine, with sharp, toasty aromas of buttered popcorn and lemon. Classic Chardonnay flavors of creamy butter, green apples, oak and vanilla make this a perfect match for a lamb or veal chop.
(Napa Valley)
88
(Napa Valley)
$21
POINTS A clear straw yellow. Light aromas of green apples, honey and oak dominate. Flavors of bread crust, oak and vanilla make for a big, mouth-filling wine, ready to drink now. Chicken piccata would do the trick.
$24
POINTS
(Napa Valley)
$17
EXCELLENT VALUE
89
2004 Robert Mondavi Winery, Reserve, Chardonnay
89
2004 Rutherford Hill Winery, Chardonnay
89
2005 Saintsbury, Chardonnay
(Napa Valley)
$35
POINTS
(Napa Valley)
$21
Aromas of lychee nut, honey and nutmeg float up from this shiny yellow wine. Flavors of butter, green apples, subtle oak and a hint of toast balance with medium acid, a refreshing mouthfeel and a medium finish. Try grilled cod or trout with this one.
$30
Subtle lemon yellow in color. Aromas of apple blossoms, minerals, citrus and tropical fruit lead to flavors of citrus, butter, apple and especially oak
2004 Newton Vineyard, Unfiltered Chardonnay
90
2004 Sequoia Grove, Chardonnay
POINTS A buttery gold wine with aromas of cut grass, honey and oak. Vigorous and complex flavors of herbs, butter and vanilla match the balanced, refreshing, lingering finish. Try with fried snapper and a side of mac and cheese.
POINTS
on the long finish. Baked grouper or pheasant would match this wine’s personality.
90
90
2004 Pine Ridge Winery, Chardonnay
(Napa Valley)
A clear wine with a pale yellow tinge, offering aromas of Asian pear, green melon and tart citrus. Medium-bodied; a crisp, dry mouthfeel; flavors of autumn fruits, peach and golden pear. Would work perfectly with grilled salmon or assorted cheeses.
Gentle yellow with a clear rim, this wine boasts aromas of POINTS creamy vanilla, toast and tropical fruits. Wonderful balance, healthy acidity and a medium body with flavors of mild minerals and almonds. Go for roast chicken with a cream-based white sauce.
90
2005 Neyers Vineyards, Chardonnay
This shimmering yellow wine offers delicate scents of briny tropical fruits, mild toast and gentle spice. After modest flavors of sweet apple, pineapple and white pepper, it ends with a fiery honey finish. Good to serve with roasted chicken.
POINTS Pale yellow with a slight green tinge, this wine has aromas of tropical fruit, light grass and oak. Light-to-medium bodied, with crisp acidity. Elegant flavors of citrus and vanilla would match well with grilled swordfish and a mango salsa.
2005 Miner Family Vineyards, Chardonnay
90
POINTS This big, buttery wine shows off a classic California style, with its toasted spice and tropical fruit aromas. Its full-bodied approach provides a mouthful of creamy butterscotch, citrus peels and grilled peach. Great for a brunch with smoked salmon sandwiches.
A clear lemon hue pulls you into the aromatic depths of tropical fruit, floral essence and peppery warmth, while the clean line of acidity balances out layers of green melon, fresh-cut herbs and Meyer lemon. Throw some shrimp and veggies on the grill to serve with this one.
POINTS A clean, dark cranberry color with enticing aromas of sour cherry, bell pepper, leather and raspberry. Savory flavors of black pepper, mushroom and chocolate go with surprisingly mild tannins for this full-bodied youngster. Try with steak, steak and more steak.
2002 St. Supéry, Élu
2005 Carr, Chardonnay
A brilliant brass-colored wine. Aromas of floral, lime, unripe peach and grapefruit introduce flavors of mineral-tinged citrus and subtle hints of oak. Dry with a medium finish. Acidic enough to be paired with ceviche.
POINTS
(Napa Valley)
90
$46
A clean straw yellow, this wine has aromas of tropical fruit and apricot. The fruits also appeared on the palate, along with flavors of green apple,
honey and lime zest. A balanced medium-to-long finish. Pair with a medium-weight fish like snapper.
POINTS
(Carneros, Calif.)
$18
A pale straw color, with aromas of honey, lime zest and green apple. Dry with medium acid and flavors of honey, apples and pineapple carrying through in a long finish. Try with veal piccata.
89
POINTS
2005 Stags’ Leap Winery, Chardonnay
(Napa Valley)
$28
Pale straw in color, this beauty smelled of tart green apple, sweet honeysuckle, melon and pear. Firm flavors of lemon pith, roasted peach and nectarine balanced with a tense acidity and a luscious finish. The flavors would work perfectly with a roasted veal chop.
wine report // february : : march 2007 { 47 }
88
2004 Sullivan Vineyards, Private Reserve Chardonnay (Napa Valley)
$28
POINTS Aromas of tropical fruit, honeysuckle and apples drift from this pale golden straw-colored wine. Heady flavors of lemon zest and butter go with medium acid and body; finishes with a bite and slight heat on a long finish. Try with baked chicken in a lemon sauce.
88
2005 Waterstone Vintners, Chardonnay (Carneros Valley)
$18
A classic California style, with warm aromas of vanilla bean, toast and mild citrus. Subtle, full-bodied flavors of toasted pine nuts, lemons, and tropical fruits fade into a mild poached-pear finish. Serve with broiled halibut brushed with olive oil.
2000 Saintsbury, Reserve, Chardonnay (Carneros Valley)
$30
POINTS A bright amber color with aromas of tropical fruit, this wine tastes of pineapple and honey. Medium-bodied with a touch of bitterness on the finish. Try a baked dish of herb-crusted chicken with this one.
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87
2004 Trefethen Vineyards, Chardonnay (Napa Valley)
2005 Monticello Vineyards, Chardonnay
(Napa Valley)
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93
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{ 48 } wine report // february : : march 2007
2003 Nozzole Estate, Riserva, Chianti Classico,
91
2003 Rocca delle Macie, Riserva, Chianti Classico,
91
2001 Tiziano Gold, Chianti Classico,
91
2001 Tiziano, Riserva, Chianti,
2003 Nozzole Estate, La Forra, Riserva, Chianti Classico
$45
This heady, deep, rich red shows aromatics of cooking spices, blueberry, tobacco and a mushroom earthiness. The black fruit pushes all the way through until the end, dropping off notes of licorice, leather, cocoa and peppery spice. Plays well with grilled lamb chops.
Chianti Classico, Italy
92
2003 Da Vinci, Riserva,
Chianti, Italy
$23
$27
POINTS A deep eggplant purple, this wine smells of blackberry, black cherry, mushroom, vanilla, allspice and leather. Pleasantly dry with full flavors of oak, strawberry, blackberry and coffee bean. Muscular tannins lead to a long, complex finish. Serve with braised lamb shanks for a match made in heaven.
92
POINTS
2003 Vignetti di Campomaggio, Riserva, Chianti Classico, Italy
$24
Powerful in its black ruby-red appearance, this wine displays aromas of black super-ripe fruit and cooking spices with sour cherry. Opens up into huge cherry notes supported by plum, licorice and coffee-spice that wrap around smooth tannins for a fine finish. Calls for a big, thick grilled rib eye with a side of garlic spinach.
Italy
$21
Italy
$23
Italy
$15
An intense garnet color and good legs; sharp aromas of wood, vanilla and oak open nicely to well-integrated tannins and flavors of dried fruit, raspberry and pepper. A roast duck with prunes or plums will open up this Italian beauty.
POINTS
2003 Castello di Brolio,
POINTS
POINTS An intense, deep purple; complex, fresh aromas of black cherry, earth and vanilla. Dry and balanced. Rich flavors of cherry tobacco and cedar match firm tannins with a silky mouthfeel. Powerful enough to stand up to a New York strip or a plate of extra-sharp cheese.
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91
Italy
POINTS
POINTS
92
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2004 Da Vinci, Chianti Classico,
$27
POINTS Youthful, stone-tinged aromas of cherry, plum and raisin; moderate tannins with succulent flavors of red fruit, wood, chocolate, mint and sour cherries carry out to a long, smooth, vanilla-filled finish. Pair with osso buco or veal Parmesan.
TA straw yellow-gold in color, with aromas of lemon peels and sour apples. Flavors are of almonds and toast. Medium-bodied and a medium finish. Goes perfectly with a plate of cheese and tropical fruit.
Chianti & Chianti Classico
GEORGIA'S PREMIER WINE COUNTRY INN
$28
POINTS
Clayton,Georgia
91
Italy
POINTS This dark red wine offers impressive scents of roasted plum, juicy fruits, fresh-plowed earth and clove. Its rich flavors of baked raspberry and cherry gain momentum with riveting acidity, carrying into a long, smoky finish. Serve with fresh tortellini in a brown-butter sage sauce.
POINTS A clear lemon color, with aromas of lemon, lavender and butterscotch. Flavors of sour apple, lemon zest, petrol and vanilla. Medium acid and a medium finish. Try with filet of snapper or mild cheeses.
86
2003 Castello di Volpaia, Riserva, Chianti Classico
POINTS This richly black-cherry-colored wine exudes clean, intense aromas of cherry and black berry. Flavors are strawberry, tobacco, light cedar and nutmeg. Complex earthy tones are balanced with a medium body and finish Try with linguine with a red clam sauce.
POINTS
87
91
$25
Clean, almost opaque eggplant in color, this wine offers rich, smoky aromas of plum, eucalyptus and violet; a rich, full body with firm acidity, supple tannins and savory notes of chocolate, cherry and raspberry on the palate. Grilled salmon or amberjack would do the trick.
Italy
$14
EXCELLENT VALUE
This dark garnet-ruby wine has ripe Sangiovese aromas of strawberry, plum and raisin. Rich, full flavors of black raspberry, black pepper, cedar and clove balance with lip-smacking tannins. Pair with traditional Italian meat and pasta dishes.
91
."3$) "13*- &7&/54 2004 Vignetti di Campomaggio, Chianti Classico, Italy
$18
POINTS
Deep ruby in color, this wine releases aromas of tobacco, smoke and hazelnut. Full flavors of cherry, earth and raspberry are readyto drink now but could get better with some time in the cellar. For a savory treat, try this one with grilled pizza with sausage.
91
2003 Volpaia, Chianti Classico,
Italy
$18
POINTS
Intense ruby color, with complex aromas of strawberry jam, white pepper and licorice. A smooth mouthfeel and firm tannins balance flavors of red fruit and black pepper. This wine begs for juicy meats like pot roast, grilled pork tenderloin or a plate of sloppy joes.
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POINTS
2004 Borgianni, Chianti,
Italy EXCELLENT VALUE
This garnet wine has clean aromas of blackberry, sour cherry and clove. Raspberry, black tea and pepper flavors are well-balanced with medium tannins, leading to a short-to-medium finish. Perfect for an antipasto with cured meats.
$10
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90
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{re views} THOMAS ARVID COVER TO COVER, 31â&#x20AC;? X 34â&#x20AC;?
89
2004 Palladio, Chianti, Italy
89
2001 Rocca delle Macie, Riserva di Fizzano, Riserva, Chianti Classico, Italy $30
Soft brick-red in appearance with strong scents of green olive, fresh herb and cola. Despite the herb-laced nose, the palate is fruit-driven, with tastes of baked red cherries and dried black fruits. The finish of tart cherry begged for gnocchi with venison stew.
POINTS A deep brick color with an orange tint, this wine has earthy aromas of tobacco, caramel and cinnamon. Full-to-medium-bodied with firm tannins; flavors are of cola, black cherry, plum and menthol. A good partner for a veal chop.
90
88
2003 Banfi, Chianti Classico, Riserva,
88
2005 Baronci, Chianti,
2001 Castello di Querceto, Riserva, Chianti Classico, Italy $28
This clear purple-red wine exudes earthy aromas of stewed strawberry, fig and black pepper. Dry flavors of raspberry, cherry and mild tannins. Serve with pasta sautĂŠed with roasted red peppers.
POINTS A very deep garnet-ruby color. Aromas of tobacco, pepper and cherry are still developing. A round mouthfeel and dark fruit with vanilla on the medium-long finish. Perfect with grilled or roasted red meats or chicken paella.
POINTS
POINTS
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2005 Spalletti, Chianti Italy
$12
EXCELLENT VALUE
2005 Straccali, Chianti, Italy
$11
EXCELLENT VALUE
Clean, prominent aromas of Bing cherry, vanilla and raisins are up front in this garnetcolored beauty. Flavors of strawberry, raisin and clove ride medium tannins to a pleasing medium-length finish. Knock this one back with wild boar ragout or beef ravioli.
90
2003 Straccali, Chianti Classico,
90
2003 Toscolo, Chianti,
Italy
$13
POINTS Complex aromas of perfume, smoke and cherry meld with flavors of mint, cherry, pepper and green olives in this bright garnet-colored wine. Dry and balanced, it has a warm and smooth mouthfeel. Would blend nicely with spaghetti alla carbonara.
Italy
$12
Clear deep garnet with aromas of blackberry, mushroom, earth and oak. Rich flavors of dark berry and pepper balance a light body with medium-to-high acid and a lingering finish. Perfect for veal with a black olive marinara sauce.
2004 Borgianni, Chianti,
Italy
$10
2005 Da Vinci, Chianti, Italy
POINTS A deep purple color greets you before aromas of woody tobacco, walnuts and dried cherry invite you in. The texture of dusty tannins shelters flavors of earthy red fruits, spice and sun-dried tomatoes. Serve with fresh pasta and herb pesto.
$10
EXCELLENT VALUE
88
2005 Cecchi, Chianti,
88
2004 Placido, Chianti,
Italy
$10
Italy
$15
This wine shows a brick-red hue with purple accents. Scents of cooked strawberry with a touch of violet introduce a simple mouthful of mild-mannered tannins and deep red fruits. The finish was short and sweet with hints of pretty cherry. Try with squab and carrot puree.
$14
POINTS Layers of oak and cocoa notes on the nose precede a wave of tobacco-cherry flavors on the palate. A dark cherry note is accented by a touch of white pepper on the finish. Pair with food from the region; try cannelloni stuffed with chicken.
89
$16
88
2005 Ruffino, Chianti,
Italy
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$11
POINTS
Aromas of candied strawberry and dried red fruit prepare you for mouth-filling flavors of raspberry, allspice and cinnamon. The finish fell a little short but was still generous and easy to enjoy. Try with grilled country bread and acorn squash risotto.
88
POINTS
2004 Ruffino, il Leo, Superiore, Chianti,
Italy
This purple and brick-red wine offers concentrated rich aromas of dried red fruit and autumn potpourri. Tart red berry and a touch of spice on the palate wrap up a simple finish of earthy flavors. Go for fresh pasta with a porcini mushroom sauce.
$13
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POINTS
Italy
]
2004 Banfi, Chianti Classico,
Clear, intense garnet with a clean nose of red fruit and licorice layered with leather. Dry with medium acid; a soft mouthfeel balances well with flavors of strawberry jam and dried figs. Pasta dishes with marinara sauce would be the best fit.
POINTS
This garnet wine has clean aromas of blackberry, sour cherry and clove. Raspberry, black tea and pepper flavors are well-balanced with medium tannins, leading to a short-to-medium finish. Perfect for an antipasto with cured meats.
Italy
$19
POINTS Aromas of oak and dried cherry pull you into this rich, vibrant wine. Smooth tannins and balanced acidity support a clean peppery palate of fresh black fruit, dark cherry and mulling spice before a warm finish. Serve with veal osso buco and risotto.
POINTS
89
A dark cranberry color and aromas of unripe cherries, oak and bell peppers pave the way for flavors of strawberry oak, black cherry and raspberry. Medium body and a firm acid lead to a medium finish. Try with bruschetta.
POINTS
90
Italy
POINTS
{ 50 } wine report // february : : march 2007
Champagne and Chocolate Rose Bouquets Gift Baskets and Wine, Cheese and Crackers or Champagne and Chocolate TrufďŹ&#x201A;es
1-"$& :063 03%&3 */ "%7"/$& '03 #&45 4&-&$5*0/
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90
$12
POINTS
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90
wine report // february : : march 2007 { 51 }
{re views}
Check This Out In
at l a n ta
{calendar}
Enjoy an evening of wine and roses on Feb. 10 when the Epilepsy Foundation of Georgia hosts its annual Taste of Love fundraiser. The black-tie gala, to be held at the Ritz-Carlton
87
2003 Banfi, Riserva, Chianti Classico, Chianti, Italy
$18
POINTS
A fine Chianti, with vibrant scents of dried strawberry, baled hay and white pepper. A little watery; simple flavors of dried prune and mulling spices fade to a mellow, earthy finish. Serve with a fresh antipasto of sliced meats or grilled quail with polenta.
87
2003 Cecchi, Messer Pietro di Teuzoo, Riserva, Chianti Italy
$28
This ruby-red Chianti provides aromas of tart strawberry, spice and dark cherry. Forceful tannins sharpen the focus on dark fruits and mulling spices; the acidity had to fight a little to hang in there, finishing slightly warm. Serve with a roasted pork shoulder.
2004 Rocca delle Macie, Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico, Italy
POINTS
2001 Domaine de Nizas, Mas Salleles, Languedoc,
February Events
EXCELLENT VALUE
Georgia
France
$13
This red wine packs in aromas of meaty bacon, candied berries and blackberry jam, while the balanced acidity and smooth tannins encourage the earth-filled fruits and fresh fig to frolic in the moment. This charmer was made for a roast.
POINTS
87
91
90
2001 Domaine de Nizas, Coteaux du Languedoc, France
Feb. 1 — Tips for Taste with Atlanta Wine School. Expert advice to simplify selecting and enjoying wine. $100/person for 3-class series. Reservations required. (770) 668-0435 or www.AtlantaWineSchool.com.
$16
POINTS The color of deep red cherry fills the bowl, surrounded by scents of oaky raspberries, fig jam and black currant. Essences of blackberry, leather and tobacco make this wine an affordable friend to pair with orange-infused duck.
$16
90
2002 Domaine Famille Lignères, Cabanon de Pascal, Corbières, France
Sherlock’s Wine Merchant hosts free wine tastings every Sat., 3-5 p.m. Brookhaven schedule: $25
POINTS
Redolence of summer plums, cherry cola and smoky dried red fruits on the nose lead to alluring earthy fruit, pepper, spice and roasted black fruits on the palate. Go with a southern-France-style beef stew or a gourmet blue cheese burger.
POINTS Cherry red with aromas of Burgundian mushrooms and musty red fruit. Thin flavors of cherry and strawberry at the start improve with tobacco and coffee on an evolving finish. Steak with porcini sauce works here.
Feb. 1 — Wines for Lovers class at Chef’s Warehouse, Midtown. 7-9 p.m. $45. For details or to register, call (404) 815-4993. www.cookswarehouse.com.
Feb. 3 — Unique Wines Feb. 10 — Valentine’s Wines Feb. 17 — Italian Wines Feb. 24 — Spanish Wines
Decatur schedule: Feb. 3 — Wines From Spain
87
2002 Ruffino, Riserva Ducale, Chianti Classico, Italy
$18
POINTS
86
Italy
2004 Cecchi, Chianti Classico, Italy
$14
$12
89
89 89
2002 Domaine Famille Lingères, Aric, Corbières, France
2002 Domaine Famille Lingères, Notre Dame, Corbières, France
POINTS Offers up chewy roasted black-fruit aromas with baked earth and jammy red fruit. Either decant for an hour or give it a couple of years for its formidable tannins to relax their hold on the raisin fruit and ground pepper spice. Try with roast venison with garlic mashed potatoes.
{ 52 } wine report // february : : march 2007
$20
$37
Feb. 17 — What Will Don And Jessica Pick Today? Feb. 24 — Italian Love Affair For more information, call the Brookhaven store at (404) 949-9945 or the Decatur store at (404) 377-4005, or visit www.sherlocks.com. Feb. 3-4 and 10-11 — Three Sisters Vineyards’ Wine and Chocolate Lovers Celebration. 12:30-5:30 p.m. From $10/person + tax. For more information call (706) 865-9463 or visit www.ThreeSistersVineyards.com. Feb. 5 — Wine and Chocolate class at Chef’s Warehouse, Decatur. Don Hackett reveals excellent pairings. 7-9 p.m. $45. For details or to register, call (404) 377-4005. www. cookswarehouse.com.
$23
2004 Domaine de Nizas, Carignan Vielles Vignes, Languedoc,France $16
POINTS A purple wine with aromatic coffee scents and subtle earthiness dancing with chocolate-covered cherries in the nose. Flavors of jammy berries and green peppercorn make this a wonderful pairing for grilled sausages.
2003 L’ostal Cazes, Minervois la Lavinière,
$30
POINTS A dark brick-red cherry color; warm aromas of strawberry, plummy cocoa and smoky bacon. Flavors match the scents, along with an acidity that pushes through and quenches the palate. Blue cheese and potato gratin would be majestic with this wine.
Languedoc Reds France
POINTS A fresh and lively fragrance of baked red cherries, stony minerality and earthy black fruit captures your attention, along with flavors of blackberries and wild mushrooms. Try with braised lamb leg with rosemary white beans.
POINTS Reddish brick in color, with soft rounded scents of cocoa-laced fruit and cherry candies. It offers a smooth, rounded mouthfeel of dried red fruits and lingering cherry spice. Pour with a meaty red pasta sauce and fresh pasta.
92
France
Energetic aromas of black pepper spice, fresh ground coffee and ripe jammy fruit rise from the glass. Plush tannins caress the palate with bittersweet spice, cocoa, earthy fruits and stone before exiting. A simple piece of charred red meat or braised short ribs would do the trick.
POINTS This ruby-red wine displays light aromas of candied black cherry and earth. Simple flavors of red fruit give way to a medium finish with a touch of peppery spice. Spaghetti or pizza would match this simple pleasure.
86
2002 Domaine Famille Lignères, Pièce de Roche,
POINTS
Reddish brown with aromas of smoky cocoa and cassis. Smooth and easy mouthfeel with mild tannins and fruit; a note of spice on the medium finish. A bistecca fiorentina could bring this wine alive.
2004 Castello di Querceto, Chianti Classico,
90
Feb. 10 — Love Is In The Air
Feb. 9 — 2nd Annual Champagne & Chocolate event at Marietta Wine Market. 7-9 p.m. $25. Limit 40. RSVP: (770) 919-1574. www.mariettawinemarket.com. Feb. 9-10, 16-17 and 23-24 — Wine Weekends at The Lodge at Smithgall Woods. Lodging plus elaborate multicourse dinners at the 5,600-acre Heritage Preserve start at $699/couple. RSVP: (800) 318-5248 or (706) 878-3087. www.SmithgallWoods.com. Feb. 10 — Valentine’s Celebration chocolateand-wine pairing at Sharp Mountain Vineyards. Call for details: (770) 735-1210. www.sharpmountainvineyards.com. Feb. 10, 14 and 17 — Valentine’s Day overnight packages at Château Élan from $370. Call for details: (678) 425-0900, ext. 41 or www.chateauelanatlanta.com. Feb. 10 and 17 — Romantic Winetaster’s Dinner at Frogtown Cellars. 5-course meal with wine pairings. 7 p.m. $45/person + tax/ gratuity. Reservations required: (706) 865-0687. www.frogtownwine.com.
Buckhead, will feature gourmet dining, premium wine pairings, live music, silent and live auctions and the chance to dance the night away. Honored guests include Mayor Shirley Franklin, Dan and Pam Reeves, Fran and Ron Terwilliger and Jim Jacoby. World-famous marathon runner Diane Van Deren will be the evening’s keynote speaker.
Taste of Love’s board of directors.
The event kicks off at 6:30 p.m. and runs until 2 a.m. Cost is $225 per ticket. Tables for 10 and 12 are available, as are sponsorships. All proceeds are directed to help prevent, control and cure epilepsy. Call for details and reservations: (678) 306-1210.
Check This Out In
at l a n ta WINE IS KING a highly royal benefit
The 15th Annual High Museum Atlanta Wine Auction is set for March 21-24 at Atlanta Station. Themed “Wine is
King! A Highly Royal Benefit,” this year’s event features a range of activities, including: > Royal Artist’s Dinner with Thomas Arvid on Weds. > Winemaker Dinners on Thurs. at some of Atlanta’s finest residences. > Tasting Seminars on Fri. with world-renowned authorities on food and wine. > The Royal Revel on Fri. includes a Champagne reception, banquet and silent auction.
MARCH 21 . 24TH
> The Crowning Glory on Sat. begins with a reception from 11 a.m.-1 p.m. Live auction starts at 1 p.m.
HIGH MUSEUM ATLANTA WINE AUCTION 2007 www.atlanta-wineauction.org
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> The Big Finish (formerly Red, White & New) will include wine tastings from 7-9 p.m. alongside fabulous foodstuffs and more. Dance until 11 p.m. The event is the largest fundraising event for the High Museum of Art as well as the top charity fundraising event in Atlanta and the 5th-largest charity wine auction in the nation. All proceeds benefit the Museum. For up-to-date information visit www.atlanta-wineauction.org.
Check This Out In
c l ay t on , ga The Beechwood Inn, Georgia’s premier wine country inn, hosts a variety of wine-focused dinners and weekends: • Feb. 3 — Italian Wine Dinner. $85/person + tax/gratuity. • Feb. 9-10 — Valentine’s Weekend Under the Tuscan Moon. $798/couple. Includes 2 nights’ lodging, gift basket, 2 dinners, wines, live music and gourmet breakfasts. • Feb. 16-17 — Valentine’s Special Weekend in Provence. $798/couple. Includes 2 nights’ lodging, gift basket, 2 dinners, French wines, live music and gourmet breakfasts. • Feb. 24 — 5-course Southern Dinner. • March 4 — Tuscan Dinner. • March 10 — 5-course California Nouveau Dinner. • March 17— St. Patrick’s Day Celebration features Vino Verde (green wine from Portugal). Tasting and dinner $35. • March 23-24 — Evening with Alsatian Flair. Fri. dinner $45/person. Sat. dinner $95/person. Prices listed do not include tax/gratuity. Except for special packages, lodging is $179-$210 per night (double occupancy) + tax; includes breakfast. For reservations and more information call (706) 782-5485 or (866) 782-2485; e-mail david-gayle@beechwoodinn.ws; or visit www.beechwoodinn.ws.
wine report // february : : march 2007 { 53 }
{calendar}
{calendar} March Ev en ts
Feb. 11 and 18 — Romantic Winetaster’s Brunch at Frogtown Cellars. 4-course meal with wine pairings. Seating from 12-2:30 p.m. $30/person + tax/gratuity. Reservations required: (706) 8650687. www.frogtownwine.com. Feb. 11, March 4 and 21— Wine Tasting at Toulouse. 12-15 wines with light appetizers. Themes vary. Starts at 6:30 p.m. $30. Reservations recommended: (404) 351-9533. Feb. 14 — Vino Libro will host a 4-course wine dinner with chef Chad Anderson. $55/person + tax/gratuity. 7 p.m. Seating limited. (404) 6243644. www.vinolibro.com. Feb. 16 and March 16 — Five on Fridays: II and III classes at Chef’s Warehouse, Midtown. Learn about wine from Gina Hopkins of Restaurant Eugene. 7-9 p.m. $45. For details or to register, call (404) 815-4993. www.cookswarehouse.com. Feb. 20 — Toast of the Town, a wine-tasting evening for the Stage Door Players, presented by The Fresh Market. 7-9 p.m. $25 per person. Call for details: (770) 396-1726. Feb. 21 — Wine Savvy class at Chef’s Warehouse, Decatur. Don Hackett discusses wine basics. 7-9 p.m. $45. For details or to register, call (404) 3774005. www.cookswarehouse.com. Feb. 23 — The World of Pinot Noir explored in a class at Cocktail Hour. 6:30-8:30 p.m. $35. (404) 846-4414. www.cocktail-hour.com.
Feb. 24 — 5th Annual Oakhurst Winter Wine Tasting features wines from around the world. 4-6 p.m. $20 in advance; $25 day of event. Details online: www.oakhurstga.org or www.oakhurstbusiness.com.
Feb. 24 — 3rd Annual Atlanta Fine Wine Festival at the Mason Murer Gallery of Fine Art features 300+ rare, allocated and limited-release wines. Benefits Visiting Nurse/Hospice Atlanta. 2-6 p.m. Tickets: www.atlantafinewinefestival.com. Feb. 28 — Wine 101 class at Chef’s Warehouse, Decatur. 7-9 p.m. $45. Call for details or to register: (404) 377-4005. www.cookswarehouse.com.
Alabama
Feb. 3 — Beginners Winemaking Class at Will Creek Vineyards, Duck Springs. Learn the basics of winemaking to produce your own wine from a 6-week kit. 2-4 p.m. No charge. (256) 538-5452. Feb. 10 — Blueberry Wine and Chocolate Tasting, in honor of Valentine’s Day at Morgan Creek Vineyards. Details: (205) 6722053, info@morgancreekwinery.com or www.MorganCreekWinery.com. Feb. 17 — Wine Tasting and Food Pairing Dinner at Wills Creek Vineyards. Advance reservation required; $35 per person. For details including menu and location: (256) 538-5452, willscreekwinery@aol.com or www.willscreekvineyards.com.
North Carolina
Feb. 10-11 — Vermentino Valentine Weekend at Raffaldini Vineyards. Release party for the 2006 Vermentino. Call for details: (336) 835-9463. www.raffaldini.com.
Georgia Sherlock’s Wine Merchant hosts free wine tastings every Sat., 3-5 p.m. Brookhaven schedule: March 3 — Good ’n Cheap Wines March 10 — Wine Trivia Tasting March 17 — California Central Coast Wines March 24 — Wine Trivia Tasting II March 31 — Pacific Northwest Wines
Decatur schedule: March 3 — Back in the US of A March 10 — Selections from the Wine Maverick March 17 — America’s Other Wine Regions (No California) March 24 — Italian vs. France: What’s Your Favorite? March 31 — Springtime Whites For more information, call the Brookhaven store at (404) 949-9945 or the Decatur store at (404) 3774005, or visit www.sherlocks.com. March 4 — Vino Libro will host a women’s luncheon to celebrate female winemakers. $35/ person + tax/gratuity. 12 p.m. (404) 624-3644. www.vinolibro.com. March 8-10 — “Coming Out of Hibernation” Celebration at Sharp Mountain Vineyards features wine and cheese tasting. Call for details: (770) 735-1210. www.sharpmountainvineyards.com. March 10-11 and 17-18— Three Sisters Vineyards’ Annual St. Patty’s Day Celebration. 12:30-5:30 p.m. Starts at $10/person + tax. For more information call (706) 865-9463 or visit www.ThreeSistersVineyards.com. March 15 — Great Wines Under $15 class at Chef’s Warehouse, Midtown. Learn from Ryan Mullins of Murphy’s. 7-9 p.m. $45. For details or to register, call (404) 815-4993. www.cookswarehouse.com. March 15 — Wines of Spain class at Chef’s Warehouse, Decatur. 7-9 p.m. $45. For details or to register, call (404) 377-4005. www.cookswarehouse.com. March 17 — St. Patrick’s Day celebration at Château Élan’s Paddy’s Pub. Call for details: (678) 425-0900, ext. 41 or www.chateauelanatlanta.com. March 17 — St. Patrick’s Day Winetaster’s Dinner at Frogtown Cellars. 5-course meal with wine pairings. 7 p.m. $45/person + tax/gratuity. Reservations required: (706) 865-0687. www.frogtownwine.com.
March 30 — Esoteric Reds and White Wines explored in a class at Cocktail Hour. 6:30-8:30 p.m. $35. (404) 846-4414. www.cocktail-hour.com.
Alabama
March 3 — Intermediate Winemaking Class at Wills Creek Vineyards, Duck Springs. Learn the fundamentals of wine stability using simple test methods. 2-4 p.m. No charge. (256) 538-5452. March 23-24 — 4th Annual Southern Breeze Coastal Wine Tour stops in Mobile. Fri. night 5-course vintner dinner. Sat. Grand Wine Tasting showcases 200 specialty wines available for purchase. Tickets at www.coastalwinetour.com or (800) 239-9880. March 24 — Gourmet Dinner with Southern Hemisphere wines. Location to be announced. Reservations required. Contact Wills Creek Vineyards at (256) 538-5452 or e-mail info@ willscreekvineyards.com.
A pr il Ev en ts Georgia April 14 — 2007 Atlanta Steeplechase. The charity event known as “The Best Lawn Party in Georgia,” now in its 42nd year, celebrates Southern traditions of food, fun, friendship and thrilling sport. More than 25,000 fans make their annual pilgrimage to Kingston Downs (near Rome, Ga.) to experience an unforgettable day of thoroughbred horse racing, Jack Russell terrier races, children’s activities, air shows, gourmet fare, boutique vendors and more. Benefits the Starlight Starbright Children’s Foundation and the University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine. General admission $25/person, $20/ vehicle. Gates open at 9 a.m. (404) 237-7436. www.atlantasteeplechase.org.
Alabama
April 20-21 — Wine and Rhododendron Festival at White Oak Vineyards. Fri., 1-6 p.m. and Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Wine tastings, bluegrass music, garden tours, live plants for sale. (256) 231-7998. www.whiteoakal.com.
F lo r i da
April 12-14 — 5th annual Florida Wine Festival. Features wine, food, performances, exhibitions and programs at The Mary Brogan Museum of Art and Science, 350 S. Duval St., Tallahassee. Events on Sat. are free. Contact: Chucha Barber, (850) 513-0700, ext. 229. www.thefloridawinefestival.com.
March 18 — Taste of Athens at the Classic Center in Athens. 55+ food and beverage stations, chef competition, silent auction, raffle and more. 6-9 p.m. Contact Shelby Wright, event coordinator, (706) 425-2574 or shelby@foundryparkinn.com.
April 20-22 — Sandestin Wine Festival at Baytowne Wharf. 500+ wines with grand tastings and more. For more information e-mail winefestival@sandestin.com.
March 24 — Winemaster’s Dinner at Frogtown Cellars. 6-to-7-course meal with wine pairings and barrel tasting. $75/person + tax/gratuity. Reservations required: (706) 865-0687. www. frogtownwine.com.
North Carolina
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May 19 — 6th Annual Yadkin Valley Wine Festival in Elkin. 20+ wineries pouring. Enjoy wine, music, crafts and food. 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Call for details: (336) 526-1111.
Ongoing Ev en ts
Cl asses/ Clubs
A t l a n ta A r e a
N at i o n a l
Capital Grille hosts Wednesday Wine Down every Weds. 6-8 p.m. A featured wine of the evening is offered for a special price by the glass with complimentary hors d’ oeuvres. (404) 2621162. www.thecapitalgrille.com. Marietta Wine Market hosts wine tastings every Weds. 5-7 p.m. and Sat. 2-4 p.m. Includes complimentary hors d’oeuvres. $5-$10 donation suggested; different local charity benefits each month. (770) 919-1574. www. mariettawinemarket.com. Sherlock’s Wine Merchant hosts free wine tastings every Sat. in Brookhaven and Decatur, 3-5 p.m. Also offering wine education classes, frequent shopper program and monthly wine clubs. (404) 949-9945. www.sherlocks.com. WineStyles Cascade hosts wine tastings every Tues. and Thurs., 6-8 p.m. Enjoy up to 8 wines from our primary taste/style categories. What’s your style? Join us and find out. (404) 472-WINE (9463). www.winestyles.net/cascade.
WineStyles Perimeter Place hosts a variety of events: • Progressive Pampering the 2nd Tues. every month saves 15% on accessories, samples of fine wines and delicious appetizers for a $5 charity donation. • Tuesday Tastings feature 6 wines for $6 every Tues., 6-8 p.m. • Drink in Style Thursdays features 12 wines with appetizers. $6/members or $10/nonmembers. • Weekend Just Desserts every Fri. evening and all day Sat. features 3 dessert wines paired with 3 mini-desserts. $10/members or $12/ nonmembers. • Second Vine Around every Sat. features all wines of the week starting at 5 p.m. $2 for every 3 samples. For details call (770) 393-1110 or visit www. winestyles.net/perimeter.
B i r m i ng h a m A r e a The Wine Cellar of Vestavia Hills hosts tastings every Tues., 5:30-7 p.m. $3/person for 6-8 wines. Also holds monthly classes for $25/ person. Call for details: (205) 979-2151.
Charlotte Area Corkscrew Wine Shop in the Lake Norman area (N. of Charlotte) holds educational wine tastings every Thurs., 6-8 p.m. Sample 4 wines for $5. Call Joe at (704) 987-0011 or visit www.4corkscrew.com.
Blackberry Farm in Tenn. hosts food and wine weekends. Themes vary. Feb. 22-24, A Taste Of The South; March 4-6, Sinful Sweetness. For more information call (865) 380-2081 or e-mail awilliams@blackberryfarm.com. www. blackberryfarm.com. The California Wine Club hand-selects wines from the best small family-owned wineries. Shipped with a risk-free, money-back guarantee. $32.95/mo. + shipping includes 2 bottles of Calif. wines and the magazine Uncorked! Call (800) 777-4443 or visit www.cawineclub.com.
At l a n ta A r e a Anita LaRaia’s Wine School to run CWE Study Course/Society of Wine Educators Certified Wine Educator exam prep classes. Weds./Sun. thru June 8. Call (770) 901-9433. or e-mail anitalaraia@msn.com for info. www.anitalaraia.com. Atlanta Wine School helps build your wine knowledge and confidence. Novice to Advanced courses available. (770) 668-0435. www. atlantawineschool.com. The International Sommelier Guild course will be held at The Art Institute of Atlanta. Classes begin Feb. 4 and run 12 weeks, 1-8 p.m. every Sun. $1,500. Details at www. internationalsommelier.com or (866) 412-0464.
National Ev en ts Feb. 10 — 18th Annual Wine and Chocolate Fantasy at Rodney Strong Vineyards, Healdsburg, Calif. Local confections, red wines and music. 1-4 p.m. $30, includes commemorative wine glass. (707) 431-1533 or e-mail hospitality@rodneystrong.com for reservations. March 17-18 — 17th Annual Savor Sonoma Valley - A Barrel Tasting & Culinary Experience. 19 wineries showcase 2005 vintage paired with local culinary creations. 11 a.m.- 4 p.m. Weekend pass $55. For details visit www.HeartOfSonomaValley.com or call (866) 794-9463. Through March 31 — 14th Annual Napa Valley Mustard Festival. Celebrate the food, wine, art, agricultural and cultural bounty of Napa Valley. For details call (707) 944-1133 or (707) 9381133. www.mustardfestival.org.
Marietta Wine Market hosts classes every Thurs. evening. (770) 919-1574. www. mariettawinemarket.com.
B i r m i ng h a m A r e a American Wine Society is a national nonprofit organization dedicated to wine education. Chapter conducts monthly tastings, usually 1st Sun. at 2:30 p.m., averaging $15 per event. Contact Lee Beadles for more information: (205) 664-5583.
Charlotte Area American Wine Society is a national nonprofit organization dedicated to wine education. For more information, call (704) 344-8027, e-mail info@carolinawineclub.com or visit www. carolinawineclub.com. Carolina Wine Club holds classes at the Westye Group SE Showroom Southend, 6:30-8 p.m. Topics vary. For details, call (704) 344-8027, e-mail info@carolinawineclub.com or visit www. carolinawineclub.com. The International Sommelier Guild course will be held at Central Piedmont Community College. Classes begin Feb. 4 and run 12 weeks, 1-8 p.m. every Sun. $1,500. Details at www. internationalsommelier.com or (866) 412-0464. Wine & Spirits Education Trust Intermediate Certification offered at Johnson & Wales Charlotte Campus. Intensive 9-week course appropriate for wine professionals and avid enthusiasts. March 15-May 10. Thurs., 7-9:30 p.m. Introductory rate: $650. (980) 598-1431. www.jwu.edu/charlotte.
Tour s/ Tr ips Taste Italy with La Dolce Vita Wine Tours. 2007 tour dates posted online. 9 itineraries in 6 regions. www.dolcetours.com/tour.htm. April 26-May 5 — Taste of Tuscany with Marco Betti of Antica Posta Ristorante Toscano. From $5,200 per person based on double occupancy. (404) 262-7112. www.anticaposta.com.
Winer ies & Tasting Rooms Alabama
Bryant Vineyard, Talladega. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Please call ahead: (256) 268-2638. Morgan Creek Vineyards, Harpersville. Free winery tours and wine tasting Mon.Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Gift shop with custom baskets and accessories. (205) 672-2053, info@morgancreekwinery.com or www. MorganCreekWinery.com. Ozan Vineyard & Cellars, Calera, just off I-65 at exit 228. Open Fri. and Sat., 12-6 p.m. and by appointment for tasting and vineyard tours. (205) 668-6926 or (678) 908-6007. www.ozanwine.com.
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Perdido Vineyards, Perdido. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. (251) 937-9463. www.perdidovineyards.com.
8-10, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Coming Out Of Hibernationâ&#x20AC;? Celebration, wine and cheese tasting. (770) 735-1210. www. sharpmountainvineyards.com.
Vizzini Farms Winery & Market, Calera. Open for visitors Mon.-Thurs., 10 a.m.-6 pm.; Fri. and Sat., 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Fine dining 6-10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. (205) 685-0655. www. vizzinifarmswinery.com.
Still Pond Vineyard & Winery, Arlington. Open Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-6 p.m. (800) 475-1193. grapes@stillpond.com. www.stillpond.com.
White Oak Vineyards, Anniston. Open Fri., 1-6 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; and by appointment. (256) 231-7998. www.whiteoakal.com. Wills Creek Vineyards, Attalla. Open for free tastings Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m. (256) 538-5452, willscreekwinery@aol.com or www.willscreekvineyards.com. The Winery on Main, Clanton. Open Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-6 p.m. (205) 280-0482.
Georgia BlackStock Vineyards and Winery, Dahlonega. Open year-round: Mon., 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Tues.Wed., by appointment; Thurs.-Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sun., 12:30-6 p.m. Live music every Sat. Call (706) 219-2789, e-mail david@bsvw.com or trish@bsvw.com, or visit www.bsvw.com. Château Ă&#x2030;lan, north of Atlanta, I-85â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Braselton exit. Free self-guided tours, Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-6 p.m.; wine tasting $5. Guided tour and tasting, Sat.-Sun., noon, 1, 2, 3 and 4 p.m., $5. No reservations required. (678) 425-0900, ext. 6354 or www.chateauelanatlanta.com. Crane Creek Vineyards, Young Harris. Call ahead for tasting room hours in winter. Tastings $5, includes souvenir glass and chocolate sample. Guesthouse available. (706) 379-1236. www. cranecreekvineyards.com. 1810 Country Inn & Winery, Thomson, 20 minutes W. of Augusta on I-20 at exit 172; turn right at the Texaco. Tasting room open Tues.-Sat., 11 a.m.-5 p.m. (706) 595-8311. www.1810winery.com. Frogtown Cellars, Dahlonega. Open every Fri., 12-5 p.m.; Sat., 12-6 p.m.; Sun., 12-5 p.m. Frogtown Bistro open for lunch every Sat., 12-4 p.m. Winetaster brunches every Sun., 12-2:30 p.m. $30/person + tax/gratuity. Reservations required. (706) 865-0687. www.frogtownwine.com. The Georgia Winery, Ringgold, is located 300 yards west of I-75 at exit 350. (706) 937-WINE. Habersham Vineyards & Winery, Helen. Open daily for tastings at 7025 Main St. (GA 75), half a mile south of Helen in Nacoochee Village. Tasting rooms around Ga.: Highway 365, Baldwin, (706) 778-9463; on the square in Dahlonega, (706) 864-8275; Southern Grace, Juliette, (478) 9940057; Underground Atlanta, (404) 522-9463. Call the winery at (770) 983-1973 or (706) 8789463, or visit www.habershamwinery.com. Persimmon Creek Vineyards, Clayton. Open Sat., 11 a.m.-6 p.m. and by appointment. Call (706) 212-7380 or visit www.persimmoncreekwine.com. Sharp Mountain Vineyards, Jasper. In Feb. open Sat., 12-6 p.m. only. In Mar. open Thurs.-Sat., 12-6 p.m. Join us on Feb. 10 for â&#x20AC;&#x153;Valentineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Celebration,â&#x20AC;? chocolate and wine pairing. March
Three Sisters Vineyards & Winery, Dahlonega. Complimentary tastings/tours. Special vintnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tastings start at $10; includes wine glass. Open Thurs.-Sat., 11 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun., 1-5 p.m. and by appointment. Winery closed Dec. 18-Feb. 8; tastings/tours by appointment only. (706) 865WINE or www.threesistersvineyards.com. Tiger Mountain Vineyards, Tiger. Tasting room open year-round. Winter hours: Fri., 1-5 p.m.; Sat., 11 a.m.-5 p.m. By appointment; minimal charge for groups. Free wine/cheese for tasting. (706) 782-4777. wine@tigerwine.com. www. tigerwine.com. Wolf Mountain Vineyards & Winery, Dahlonega. Wine tastings, $8. Educational tour and cellar tasting Sat. and Sun., $15. Closed Dec. 18-March 1, 2007, while the vines sleep. (706) 867-9862. www.wolfmountainvineyards.com.
North Carolina Château Laurinda, Sparta. Open Tues.-Sat., 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sun., 12-5 p.m. (800) 650-3236. www.chateaulaurindawinery.com. Childress Vineyards, Lexington. Open Mon.Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sun., 12-6 p.m. Lunch served daily at The Bistro: Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sun., 12-3 pm. Free tours. Tastings, $7-$15. (336) 236-9463 www.childressvineyards.com. Duplin Winery, Rose Hill. Open Mon.-Sat., 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; Fri., 9 a.m.-9 p.m. (800) 774-9634 or www.duplinwinery.com. Ginger Creek Vineyards, Taylorsville. Open Thurs.-Sat., 11 a.m.-6 p.m. (828) 312-4362. Hanover Park Vineyard, Yadkinville. Open Thurs.-Sat., 12-6 p.m.; Sun., 1-5 p.m. (336) 4632875. www.hanoverparkwines.com. Hinnant Family Vineyards, Pine Level. Hours: Mon.-Fri., 1 p.m.-5 p.m. (December only); Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sun., 1-5 p.m. (919) 965-3350. Old North State Winery, Mt. Airy. Hours: Mon.Wed., 11 a.m.-6 p.m.; Thurs.-Sat., 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun., noon-6 p.m. (336) 789-9463. www. oldnorthstatewinery.com. Special brunch menu, Sundays noon-6 p.m. Old Stone Vineyard and Winery, Salisbury. Open Tues.-Sat., 11 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun., 1-5 p.m. Seasonal gift baskets available. (704) 279-0930. www.osvwinery.com. RayLen Vineyards & Winery, 3577 Hwy. 158, Mocksville. Open Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-6 p.m. (336) 998-3100 or www.raylenvineyards.com. Shelton Vineyards, Dobson. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun., 1-5 p.m. (336) 366-4724. www.sheltonvineyards.com. The Vineyards of Swan Creek Association incorporates 4 wineries in the Yadkin Valley: â&#x20AC;˘ Buck Shoals Vineyards, Hamptonville. Tastings Weds. & Thurs., 11 a.m.-5 p.m.; Fri. & Sat., 11 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sun., 1-5 p.m. (336) 468-9274. www.buckshoalsvineyard.com.
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â&#x20AC;˘ Laurel Gray Vineyards, Hamptonville. Open Weds., 1-6 p.m.; Thurs. & Fri., 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun., 1-5 p.m. (336) 4688463. www.laurelgray.com.
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â&#x20AC;˘ Raffaldini Vineyards, Ronda. Open Weds.-Sat., 11-5 p.m.; Sun., 1-5 p.m. and by appointment. (336) 835-9463. www.raffaldini.com. â&#x20AC;˘ Windy Gap Vineyards, Ronda. Open Tues.Sat., 11 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun., 12-5 p.m.; Mondays by appointment. (336)984-3926. www. windygapwines.com. The Wine Report (a publication owned by LA Publishing & Media Group, LLC) publishes the above information on a spaceavailable basis as a service to the wine communities in cities where the magazine is distributed. We check the accuracy of information submitted by third parties but cannot be responsible for any errors or consequences arising out of mistakes in published information. Please be a responsible drinker and always consume in moderation. Never drink and drive. Pick a designated driver when attending wine events, or make other arrangements for transportation. The Wine Report assumes no responsibility in consequences arising from events serving alcoholic beverages published in its pages. The publishers and staff cannot attest to the proper legal and lawful responsibility of the hosts of said events or their legitimacy in law abidance in either possessing or obtaining proper legal permission, licensing or other such permits from official state, county or city authorities to sell, resell, give away or in any fashion pour alcoholic beverages at their events.
C a l e n da r P o l i cy As a service to readers and advertisers, The Wine Report publishes calendar announcements for wine-related events that occur primarily in our main distribution areas of Atlanta, Ga., Charlotte, N.C. and Birmingham, Ala. If you have an event or program related to wine, The Wine Report may publish your information. Please send details to The Wine Report, 2200 Parklake Drive, Suite 100, Atlanta, GA 30345; fax to (678) 985-9644; or e-mail Hope S. Philbrick, calendar editor, at hopesp95@yahoo.com. Listings are provided at no charge for the following types of events and organizations: wine-related charity events, wineries, B&Bs with wine or culinary programs, wine festivals, wine schools and wine societies. Also listed are organizations that either advertise in The Wine Report or purchase a calendar listing. The editorial staff reserves the right to choose which national and international events and organizations appear in the calendar, to decide which events and organizations are eligible for free listings and to limit the number of listings by any one organization. For more information about our calendar policy, contact our calendar editor as detailed above. Rates for purchased listings begin at $25. To purchase a listing, contact Jaymi Curley at jcurley@winesimple.com or (678) 985-9494.
No attractive animals were mistreated during the making of this magazine. The designer was sustained by coffee and a constant fear of failure. The editor spent three weeks locked in broom closet with a flashlight and a bottle of 18-year-old Jamison whiskey searching for inspiration in the poetry of Robert Frost and the insane ramblings of Hunter Thompson. He emerged with tired eyes and a pissed off liver. Keeping us company were Perry Comoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Perry Como Sings Merry Christmas Music, Scissor Sisterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s TAH DAH, Ella Fitzgerald, The Shins Wincing the Night Away, LCD Soundsystemâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sound of Silver, John Coltrane and Working for a Nuclear Free City. The Brothers Grimm by Terry Gilliam was an inspiration as was Pixarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cars, Cool Hand Luke and The Philadelphia Story.
5 Metro Atlanta Locations
Wine Departments Everywhere
2 Metro Atlanta Locations
1544 Piedmont Road Ansley Mall
DC BEVERAGE WAREHOUSE 10950 State Bridge Rd, Alpharetta
1220 Clairmont Road Decatur
SMYRNA WORLD OF BEVERAGES 4474 S. Cobb Drive, Smyrna
SWEETWATER PACKAGE 3900 Peachtree Ind. Blvd, Duluth
Hartigan's Beverage Mart Peachtree City, GA
3 Metro Atlanta Locations
2565 Delk Road Marietta Dekalb Farmers Market Decatur
3072 Early Street, NW in the heart of Buckhead
2 Metro Atlanta Locations
Smokerise Bottle Shoppe Stone Mountain Alpharetta
The Dunwoody Bottle Shop 5479 Chamblee Dunwwody Rd
Publix in the Peachtree Shopping Ctr., Buckead
21-A Peachtree Place Midtown Atlanta 30309
BEVERAGE WORLD PACKAGE STORE 6737 P'tree Ind. Blvd. Doraville
CANDLER PARK MARKET 1642 McLendon Avenue, Atlanta
OAKWOOD PACKAGE STORE 4856 Hog Mountain Rd. Flowery Branch, GA PACES BOTTLE SHOP 3599 Atlanta Rd., Smyrna
Windward Beverage Mart, Alpharetta, GA
I-985 @ Exit #16, Gainesville
Shield's Market
10500 Alpharetta Hwy Roswell
5462 McEver Rd Flowery Branch, GA
2 Atlanta Locations
Spalding Wine & Spirits
1554 N. Decatur Rd. Emory Village, Decatur
Village Spirits
3890 Pleasant Hill Rd. , Duluth
7748 Spalding Dr., Norcross
1272 Johnson Ferry Rd. East Cobb
Georgia World of Beverages, Peachtree City, GA
Gwinnett County
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{finally }
Wi n e U n de r Wat e r In a sumptuous exhibition of wine, food, fine art and stunning vistas of marine life, the Georgia Aquarium raised money for its efforts on behalf of marine animals’ health and conservation. The event, called Aqua Vino, benefited the Correll Center for Aquatic Animal Health, the aquarium’s partnership with the University of Georgia’s College of Veterinary Medicine. { 58 } wine report // february : : march 2007