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WINTER 2006 / 2007

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WHO’S No.1

FIND OUT IN OUR TOP

50

WINES OF

2006

COMPLIMENTARY

at Preferred Establishments Display through February 1, 2007

INSIDE: Francis Ford Coppola // The Best Seasonal Beers // wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 1 } Park City, Utah // Wine For Dessert // 2006 Holiday Marketplace

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{CON TEN T S}

feat ures: Wine Report’s Top 50 Wines of 2006

20

c olu m n s

& d e p a r t m e nt s :

Our panel of experts tasted, scored and reviewed more than 500 wines in 2006. Our editorial staff chooses the best of the bunch

24

‘Tis the Season for Beer

32

A Cranberry a Day

Beer makers take advantage of their customers’ holiday spirit to brew up concoctions tailored to the season

According to some doctors, these Thanksgiving Day staples just might save your life

g u id e s

10

Wine News

Wine Merchant Guide … 38

New Sonoma Wine Law; Star Trek Juice; English Wine Looking Up; Cab Aids in Fight Against Disease

Need to pick up a bottle for dinner or a party? Search out one of these well-stocked shops, stores and grocers

12

Q&A

Travel Guide… 48

14

Columnist: Eric Lyman

Restaurant Guide … 48

16

18

Francis Ford Coppola takes us deep inside the Rubicon

Champagne isn’t the only sparkling wine in Europe, so check out what the rest of the continent has to offer

Columnist: Harry Haff

Planning a trip? These destinations are great places to get lost for a weekend

Check out these first-class wining and dining options

Wine Events Calendar … 49

The duty of pairing wine with food terrifies even seasoned hosts and hostesses. So instead of pairing wine with dessert, why not try it as dessert?

A wine-centric listing that includes winery contact information, restaurants’ wine dinners and tastings, education programs and more

Index to Advertisers … 57

Travel

Eating and drinking in Park City, Utah

w i ne r e v ie w s Introductions … 39 American Sparkling Wines …43

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on the

cover: { 6 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

Illustrator Neal Aspinall provided the illustrations for the cover and the Top 50 Wines story. He was born and raised in Lake Geneva, Wis., and graduated from the Colorado Institute of Art in 1984. He now lives in Lake Geneva where he spends every weekend in with his wife, kids and dogs.

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 7 }

winter 2006 / 2007

Wine R eport ® Gary Kneller – President Steve Stevens – Editor in Chief Chris Rank – Art Director Wes Dewhurst – Advertising Director Hope Philbrick – Assistant Editor Brent Winter – Assistant Editor Jeff Piersol – Account Executive Bill Burrows – Account Executive Michael Patrick – Tasting Coordinator Brent Schwarz – Distribution Manager Hope Philbrick & Mike Patrick Wine Review Writer & Tasting Panel Proctor Rich Fuscia, Debbi Smith, Kathy Arturo Advertising Design Jaymi Curley administrative assistant Distribution Staff : Affinity Marketing, Chuck Hardin Michele Martin, Rob McAlister Jack Wagner, Rodney White Contributors : Neal Aspinall, Katie Kelly Bell, Deborah Grossman, Harry Haff, Eric Lyman, Kyle T. Webster The Wine Report is published bimonthly. © 2006 The Wine Report. All Rights Reserved.

Issues are complimentary when visiting our distribution points.

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The Wine Report 2200 Parklake Drive, Suite 100 Atlanta, GA 30345 (678) 985-9494 • Fax (678) 985-9644 Viewpoints expressed by contributing authors are not necessarily those of the publishers.

{ } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

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© 2006 Rodney Strong Vineyards, Healdsburg, California

{ wine n e w s }

Schwarzenegger Signs New Sonoma Wine Law

Christie’s Images Ltd., 2006

Sold, to the Romulan in the Front!

Office of Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger

More grapes from Sonoma County are now required in wine with Sonoma on the label

At least 75 percent of grapes used to make wine must be from Sonoma County in order for the region to appear on wine labels or in a brand name, according to a new law signed by California’s Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger Sept. 30.

“California produces some of the finest wines in the world. From the delicate Pinot Noir of the Central Coast to the Cabernet from Napa or Sonoma, our state boasts an abundance of remarkable wines,” said Gov. Schwarzenegger in a statement. “This bill is important for wine makers and consumers as it protects the integrity of Sonoma County wines by ensuring that a bottle’s label accurately reflects its contents.”

Cabernet Sauvignon May Help Alzheimer’s Patients

The new law has its detractors. “It’s inconsistent with the Napa statute,” said Wendell Lee, general counsel for the Wine Institute, the California wine industry’s main lobbying organization. “It’s very selective in the protection that it rendered. It was pretty clear to us that some of the unintended consequences would be dramatic if we didn’t make an effort to change the bill.” The lobby did have an impact: “It started out as a fairly overreaching bill,” continued Lee. “In its first incarnation it would have applied to all counties, but as more counties started to object to being included, it shrank rapidly from a 54-county bill to a one-county bill.”

NEW STUDY POINTS TO MORE HEALTH BENEFITS FROM RED WINE

Cabernet Sauvignon may help reduce the risk of Alzheimer’s disease when consumed in moderation, according to a study directed by Mount Sinai School of Medicine.

“This new breakthrough in findings is another step forward in Alzheimer’s research,” said the study’s co-author, Dr. Giulio Maria Pasinetti of Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City. “These findings give researchers and millions of families a glimpse of light at the end of the long dark tunnel for future prevention of this disease.”

One change that Lee considers a win: “Carneros straddles both Napa and Sonoma. There’s a provision within the bill that allows for wineries located in both counties to use the term Sonoma in their advertising.”

“We saw a lot of inconsistencies—and there should be consistent laws,” says Gladys Horiuchi, spokesperson for the Wine Institute. “This is not to say that anyone will be out of compliance—

An estimated 4.5 million Americans have AD, for which currently there is no known cure or effective

we have the federal laws. We just want the individual county laws to be consistent. It can be very confusing to have these county regulations on top of the federal regulations.”

English Wine Producers

As an example, Horiuchi cites the North Coast viticultural area. “It contains five counties, including Sonoma,” she says. “Federal regulations require that 85 percent of grapes are from within the boundaries of the viticultural region in order for the name to appear on the label.” But now in order to use the name Sonoma in advertising, producers would need 75 percent of grapes to be grown in that region alone.

{ 10 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

Two empty wine bottles recently sold for $6,600 at an auction at Christie’s New York. Used as props in the 2002 movie Star Trek: Nemesis, the Chateau Picard labels boast a 2267 vintage and were designed by graphic artist Monica Fedrick for the film, according to the official lot notes. The bottles appear in the Data character’s memorial scene at the end of the movie.

Part of a sale to celebrate the CBS Paramount Television Studios series’ 40th anniversary, the bottles were estimated to go for $700 and were one of 1,000 lots of Star Trek memorabilia including costumes, props, set dressings and detailed models.

The auction brought in $7,107,040—more than double expectations.

The Senate bill introduced by Sen. Wesley Chesbro, D-Arcata, applies to wine produced, bottled or labeled after Dec. 31, 2008. It was designed to close loopholes in federal brand name legislation from 1986 in which a grandfather clause exempted brand names already in use.

California is one of the largest wine producers in the world, supplying more than $27 billion in products every year. The wine industry contributes $45.4 billion to the state economy and 200,000 jobs. California’s 1,300 commercial wineries are predominantly small or family owned-and-operated businesses.

STAR TREK WINE BOTTLES AUCTIONED OFF FOR THOUSANDS

preventive strategy. This study is the first to report that Cabernet Sauvignon significantly reduced the deterioration of spatial memory function and a type of neuropathology, based on its findings with mice.

“This study supports epidemiological evidence indicating that moderate wine consumption, within the range recommended by the FDA dietary guidelines of one drink per day for women and two for men, may help reduce the relative risk for AD clinical dementia,” says Dr. Pasinetti.

Dr. Pasinetti collaborated on the study with other researchers at Mount Sinai and at the University of Florida’s Department of Food Science and Human Nutrition. It is published in the November 2006 issue of The Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology Journal and was presented at the Society for Neuroscience meeting in Atlanta in October.

By Jove, the English are Selling Wine SALES OF WINE MADE IN THE UNITED KINGDOM HAVE RISEN FOUR CONSECUTIVE YEARS

Sales of English wines have increased an average of 30 percent each year for the past four years and are expected to jump even higher, according to Julia Trustram Eve, spokeswoman for English Wine Producers, a marketing association for English wine producers. Average production of English wine is 1.9 million bottles (with less than 10 percent currently exported), but this year’s harvest may produce 3 million bottles. “We have the promise of a bumper crop—potentially the largest on record,” Eve said.

Global warming may be a factor. “Global warming has contributed a long, warm autumn season, which ripens the grapes wonderfully and brings forward the start of harvesting,” Eve remarked. “Additionally, vineyards are creeping further north—this year alone, two 10-acre vineyards were planted just outside York—although the greatest region of expansion is still the southeast of England.”

In addition to a warmer climate, Eve attributes the rise of English wine to better publicity and the subsequent awareness of English wines.

“The greatest publicity our industry has received has been over the international awards some of our producers— particularly our sparkling wine producers—have achieved.”

Workers dutifully harvest grapes for England’s largest wine producer, Chapel Down Wines.

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 11 }

{Q&A}

Francis Ford Coppola

crosses the Rubicon The Oscar-winning filmmaker wins more awards for his Napa Valley wines

Francis Ford Coppola makes Oscar-winning movies. He also makes wine. Or rather, his winemaker, Scott McLeod, makes the wine. But Coppola is not content to merely be the absentee winery owner of Rubicon Estate in Napa Valley and the Francis Coppola Winery in Sonoma.

In a private interview, Wine Report asked Coppola what part of winemaking he prefers.

“I voice my opinion about the wine. But I’ve not yet become the expert. I’m most interested in the packaging, in the presentation and the labels. Did you know that our cask-style label on our Captain’s Reserve is the only one on the market made of wood?”

their kids on the estate. Surrounded by grapes and linked to the vinous tradition by his grandfather’s homemade wine, Coppola recalls thinking, “We’ll take grapes, squish them and make wine. I’ll hold them in barrels for seven years, even if the accounting folks don’t like that.” He released his first vintage of Rubicon in 1978.

The symbolism, the visual imagery and the taste of the wine are all important to Coppola.

And so is the heritage of the Rubicon Estate, formerly the Niebaum-Coppola Winery until its renaming in April of 2006.

Rubicon Estate is solely owned by the Coppola family. Coppola’s other business interests are under the corporate umbrella of FFC Presents, of which he is a partner. Coppola’s popular, larger-production wine labels—the Diamond series, the Rosso and Bianco labels and Sofia sparking wine (sold in cans and named after his film-director daughter)—will be poured at the Sonoma Francis Ford Coppola Winery.

In addition to the two wineries, Coppola also sells pasta and Italian sauces under the

Gustave Niebaum, an émigré to the United States from Finland, earned a fortune as a West Coast shipping magnate in the 19th century. He scouted fields in the Napa Valley for winegrowing and settled on the bench

The wine showcased at Rubicon Estate is the flagship Rubicon, the name of which comes from Julius Caesar’s famous “no surrender” declaration at the Rubicon River in Italy. At $110 a bottle, the award-winning wine is crafted from the best lots of organic Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes grown on the estate. It displays the cherry flavors, violet notes and balanced tannins that epitomize Rutherford red wines.

As an indicator of the seriousness with which Coppola regards the quality of his wine, his staff recently invited George Riedel, tenthgeneration glassmaker and president of Riedel Crystal, to taste several vintages of Rubicon in different glasses to select the official glass for Rubicon. This was the first time in many years Riedel has executed this exercise in America.

Douglas Kirkland/CORBIS

“To me, Rubicon represents 150 years of Inglenook history,” he says, “but I also enjoy a fruity, intoxicating Zinfandel with an Italian dinner or our soft, mellow Diamond Collection Merlot.” land on the western side of Rutherford. His property, named Inglenook, joined Beaulieu Vineyards to become the leading American wine châteaux through the 1960s.

Mammarella label, and he owns two resorts in Belize and one in Guatemala. In June, he purchased Madrona Manor, a Victorian inn and restaurant, in Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma.

Since his purchase of the Inglenook winery in 1995, Coppola has housed his movie memorabilia there, such as his Oscars, a Turner car from the film Turner and Don Corleone’s desk from The Godfather. But these personal artifacts will now be displayed at the new Rubicon winery, which is located at the former Château Souverain in Geyserville.

“These projects don’t represent businesses as much as my restless nature to have fun besides making movies,” says Coppola.

Like many of Coppola’s projects, the Rubicon Estate grew organically. Envisioned as a getaway from fame, the director purchased the house and vineyards behind the Inglenook winery in 1975, and he and his wife raised

The red carpet is rolled out for guests at Rubicon Estate. A reservations-only policy ensures guests are personally greeted by staff and presented with a passport-sized booklet containing the history and operating philosophy of the winery. A menu of tours is available, such as the élevage, which provides a walk-through of the winery, and a Rubicon tasting in the storage caves with international cheeses.

Yet Coppola is no wine snob. “To me, Rubicon represents 150 years of Inglenook history,” he says, “but I also enjoy a fruity, intoxicating Zinfandel with an Italian dinner or our soft, mellow Diamond Collection Merlot.”

When Coppola chooses to do a project, he does it right. That’s how he wins Oscars, and how he wound up serving his organic wine in the ideal glass in a historic winery in Rutherford, the heart of Napa Valley.

Deborah Grossman is a San Francisco Bay Area writer and columnist on wine and food.

She likes to travel with her husband, cook with her grandchildren and discover new wine.

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 13 }

{v i e ws}

The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous sparkling wine is not the only sparkling wine worth uncorking

By Eric Lyman

Nowadays, there are much stricter regulations governing which bottles can bear the sacred C-word. And those precious bottlesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;bearing sexy names we all know, such as Cristal, Dom Perignon, Perrier-JouĂŤt and Veuve Clicquotâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;are a great bet for any festive but important occasion.

But what about those times when the occasion is festive, but a little less important?

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always struck me as a bit incongruousâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; even painfulâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;to witness artfully made bottles of bubbly being chugged by revelers who manage to sip nearly as much from their plastic glasses as they spill on the floor. At best, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in poor taste; at worst, it seems a kind of absurdly conspicuous consumption.

Eric J. Lyman, a former chef with a passion for wines, is a freelance

Champagne is a serious beverage. When made well, it is something to be savored and pondered, like a serious love affair. Italian Spumante and Spanish Cava, on the other hand, are simpler, lighter and more innocent, like a teenage summer romance.

writer in Italy. His personal website is www.ericjlyman.com.

Today, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s less need than ever to pop the cork on a bottle of Krug or Taittinger to celebrate the holidays; good (and much more affordable) sparkling wines are being made around the world. While New World sparklersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;whether from the United States or increasingly from Australia, South Africa and South Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;are good and getting better, this column will focus on the alternatives Europe has to offer.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve tasted decent bubbly from all over the continent; not just the usual suspects, but also those from Austria, Croatia, Germany, Luxembourg, Portugal, Romania,

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always struck me as a bit incongruousâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;even painfulâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;to witness artfully made bottles of bubbly being chugged by revelers who manage to sip nearly as much from their plastic glasses as they spill on the floor.â&#x20AC;?

Switzerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;even England. But because of whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s likely to appear on U.S. store shelves, I will limit myself to non-Champagne sparkling wines from Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s three most important wine-producing countries: Italy, Spain and France.

A consumer who plops down $10 or $15 for a bottle of sparkling wine rather than $100 or $150 for a hip bottle of prestige Champagne shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t settle for bland and flabby wines.

At the very least, a low-end sparkler should have a clean and crisp aroma, often with a bit { 14 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

of citrus. In the mouth, the bubbles should taste creamy more than foamy. And a younger bottle is almost always best.

Italian vintners make their Spumante sparking wine from more kinds of grapes than the rest of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sparkling wines combined, but the best bet is probably Prosecco, which is the name of a grape that grows only in the vast flatlands north and west of Venice. An Italian wine book I read once said that if it were necessary to serve only one wine with all foods to all diners, the best one would be Prosecco, with its clean and refreshing textures and its pleasing and adaptable simplicity.

Another interesting bubbly from Italy is the often-misunderstood Moscato from the Piedmont region (either dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Alba or dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Asti).

These wines have a delicate sweetness and a low alcohol level, making them a delightful desert wineâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;or even a surprising accompaniment at a brunch, perhaps on New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day, after a night of celebrating with something stronger.

The word to remember from Spain is Cava, named for the caves where the wine is traditionally made. The trend in Spain is to switch to sparklers based on Chardonnay rather than on traditional varieties such as Xarello or Macabeo, but whatever the variety, the signature characteristic is that theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re balanced, light and refreshingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;but often less than interesting. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always found itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tough to go terribly wrong with Cava, but also difficult to make a great discovery.

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Beyond Champagne

Like most people I know, the first few times I drank something out of a bottle with the word â&#x20AC;&#x153;Champagneâ&#x20AC;? on the label, the bubbly liquid had nothing to do with the village in northeastern France that bears that name.

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OUR BUYERS

Aside from Champagne, my favorite spot for French bubbly is the Loire Valley, where Chenin Blanc grapes are picked just before they ripen to make an acidic and surprisingly pleasing sparkler called Vouvray. Another interesting French sparkler comes from the Alsace region and is usually made from a kind of Pinotâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Noir, Blanc, or Gris. These wines have an even higher acidity that makes them sparkle most with food.

Anyone determined to serve a worthwhile Champagne over the holidays without taking out a second mortgage only has to examine the fine print. On the bottom of every Champagne label is a registration code that starts with two letters. The codes for most producersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including every individual producer named in this articleâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;start with â&#x20AC;&#x153;NM,â&#x20AC;? which means the producer buys at least some of the grapes used in the wine.

But a few begin with â&#x20AC;&#x153;RM,â&#x20AC;? which means the grower cultivated and picked all the fruit used in the wine. These bottles, while less expensive than the prestige Champagnes, are not nearly as economical as a Moscato dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Asti or an Alsatian sparkler. But they will almost always be unusual, distinctive, classyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and highly personal.

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{v i e ws}

Let Them Eat …Wine?

Can the fashionable port-style wines of Australia or even the great Eisweins of Germany really stand alone at a meal’s end?

By Harry Haff

If you’re like me, at the end of a meal you find dessert immensely satisfying. After the heady flavors of two or maybe three courses that valiantly succumbed to your mighty fork, the arrival of a great dessert creates a sense of anticipation before the first taste and a sense of fulfillment after the last bite.

However, sometimes a traditional dessert can seem too big a finale. That’s when you should try wine as dessert, rather than wine with dessert.

Dessert wines come in many different flavors and colors. A brief list might include: luxurious late-harvest wines from Germany, Austria, Alsace, Hungary and Bordeaux; fortified wines of Spain and Portugal; icewines from Canada; and “port style” wines of Australia and California. Simply put, there is a world of flavors and textures that say, “This is dessert.” These wines are intensely pleasing, with deep flavors, velvety textures, rich aromas and that punch of sugar that rounds off the meal so well.

Harry Haff is a chef instructor at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Atlanta where he teaches kitchen classes and a course in wines and beverages. He can be reached at h2fl@yahoo.com.

One of the best things about wine as dessert is simplicity: The hostess or host simply serves a dessert wine and maybe a simple cookie. End of story. No trepidation about matching this with that or choosing an “incorrect” wine.

If you want to try the late-harvest wines of Germany, Austria or Bordeaux, start with a Beerenauslese or a Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA). These wines are made from individually picked grapes that have shrunk to the size of raisins while still on the vines, which concentrates the sugar and juice to

and Sauvignon Blanc grapes, but the wine is no less rich and honeyed.

Eiswein is a German or Austrian dessert wine made from frozen grapes. The grapes for these wines must first be ripened to Beerenauslese status. When a sudden frost hits, the grapes freeze, and they must be picked and pressed while still frozen.

This is the traditional method. But we also have icewines from British Columbia, New York State, and Ontario. There are even icewines from Santa Cruz, Calif., that are made from overripe grapes frozen in commercial freezers.

If you want the “Wine of Kings and King of Wines,” then treat yourself to a Tokay from Hungary. These traditional wines are made from the Furmint grape, which perhaps is unknown to most people but that has been producing noble wines for more than 500 years. Tokay Aszú is a richer, sweeter wine that is rated according to the number of puttonyos, or baskets of grape paste that go into a cask of fermenting juice.

Tokay Aszús are ranked at one through six puttonyos, with six being the richest and most concentrated wine.

For an Italian dessert wine, you might consider Vin Santo. This sweet late-harvest wine comes from Tuscany and is made primarily from the Trebbiano Toscano grape.

There is also a rosé version. No matter which you choose, you’ll surely agree that the taste of Vin Santo is a “holy” experience.

Care to try a sweetie from Down Under, mate? Taste some late-harvest or portstyle wines from the Rutherglen region of Australia. These wines have flavor profiles similar to traditional Portos and Sherries but are made under the baking Australian sun, rather than being slowly aged in Port and Sherry houses in Spain and Portugal.

“One of the best things about wine as dessert is simplicity: The hostess or host simply serves a dessert wine and maybe a simple cookie. End of story.” provide a scrumptious intensity of fruit and sweetness that is balanced by the acid tartness of the Riesling grape. The TBA is more concentrated than the Beerenauslese and is only sold in half bottles. The late-harvest wines of Bordeaux primarily use Sémillon { 16 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

Dessert, late harvest, sweet; whatever you call them, these sought-after wines are increasing in sales and popularity around the globe because people like you enjoy them. If you haven’t done so already, it’s about time you had wine for dessert.

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>S`QVSR VWUV W\ bVS EOaObQV ;]c\bOW\a ]T \]`bVS`\ CbOV >O`Y 1Wbg Wa bVS e]`ZR TO[]ca aYW `Sa]`b bVOb eOa bVS V][S ]T bVS EW\bS` =Zg[^WQa BVS OTTZcS\b dWaWb]` ^]^cZObW]\ ]T `SUcZO` aYWS`a O\R []c\bOW\ PWYS`a VOdS [ORS bVS b]e\ O []c\bOW\ ^O`ORWaS e]`bVg ]T a][S ]T bVS \ObW]\¸a TW\Sab eW\W\U O\R RW\W\U 4W\S T]]R Q`Wa^ []c\bOW\ OW` O\R O TOW`Zg _cWQY bV`SS V]c` TZWUVb T`][ /bZO\bO O`S bVS RSTW\W\U SZS[S\ba bVOb [OYS >O`Y 1Wbg a] Obb`OQbWdS b] A]cbVSOabS`\S`a HOW TO GET THERE: Delta offers several non-stop flights: (800) 323-2323 WHERE TO STAY: Châteaux at Silver Lake Deer Valley (888) 976-2732. Rates: $185-$715.

2/G =<3 I know things are good when our plane actually arrives early. In fact, arrival is such a snap that the resorts actually offer free lift passes if you show your boarding pass from the dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flight out. Less than 90 minutes after our flight lands, we are installed in our plush condo in Deer Valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Châteaux at Silver Lake.

After a few hours strolling up and down Main Street, the quaint hub of Park City, it becomes quite clear that eating is a prized activity in this town. With more than 70 dining establishments to choose from, finding the perfect meal is no problem. Keep in mind that there are a few wacky liquor laws to contend with (due largely to Utahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s predominantly Mormon population). During our first high-altitude culinary adventure, at the No-Name Saloon, we are asked if we are members. Er, no? Should we be? It turns out that every bar/pub/saloon is a Members Only Club. We dutifully sign free membership cards and order away. The No Name specializes in bison (mine is terrific) and spicy fish tacos with a killer house salsa.

Our Deer Valley condo is the perfect place to rest between meals; better yet, we wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have far to go for the next one, at Bistro Toujours, an award-winning restaurant located in the lobby of The Châteaux at Silver Lake. Still operating on Eastern time, we are starved by 6:00 p.m. local time, and the wait staff handles our early arrival with aplomb, escorting us to our window seat overlooking a lovely landscaped patio.

Courtesy of Mark Maziarz & Park City CVB

Chef David Kratky kicks off our evening with a dish of shrimp Rockefeller, tender large shrimp in an oven-roasted tomato served with garlic and Pernod sauce, accompanied by creamed spinach and herbed croutons. Our shrimp is followed by an intermezzo of watercress vichyssoise, a delightfully cool and refreshing pause before we dig into our entrees. We sample some wines by the glass (there are several to choose from) and finally settle on a bottle of K Syrah: ripe, heady and exotic, this is the wine the manager recommended as an ideal pair to our meals. The servers we encounter are all passionate about wine and food, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nice to share the fun of a good meal with them.

More than 70 restaurants line the snow-laden sidewalks of Park City, Utahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Main Street.

{ 18 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

leave you at least thirsty, if not hungry.

Browse a shop or two and then settle down to dinner at Ghidottiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ghidottiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.. The resplendent interior of this Italian restaurant is quite incongruous with the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strip-mall setting, but just go with it. Three fireplaces, plush brocaded curtains and magnificent tapestries and ironwork imported from Italy set the stage for a fine meal.

Lift tickets in hand, we make tracks for the Naildriver trail, high atop Deer Valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mountain. Lacking the passion for speed and terrifying terrain that my husband seems to possess (or be possessed by), I convince him to take a â&#x20AC;&#x153;moderateâ&#x20AC;? trail with me. The lift ride up is a treat of panoramic vistas encompassing the Wasatch Mountains, and our visibility today is more than 50 miles; but even so, my mind is on the final destination: the Royal Street CafĂŠ, reputed to be a hot spot for après ski/hike/bike foodies.

We are deposited atop the peak, and after a deep breath or two (or three), I manage to literally brake my way down the mountain . . . and I am thrilled and pleased with how manageable the whole ride is. We skid to a stop right in front of the Royal Street CafĂŠ, which boasts an expansive outdoor patio overlooking the base of the mountain.

Guests can literally jump off the lift and dine or ski in and dine.

Branching out a bit from the Park City routine, we take a 10-minute jaunt to the town of Redstone for a spin through the Utah Olympic Park and some boutique shopping. A wild ride down the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fastest zip line or on the bobsledâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;where you reach speeds of up to 80 m.p.h.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;should

)ATLANTA 75

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Wines are a big feature here, with more than 35 offerings by the glass or taste, such as Silver Oak and Caymus Cabernet. The wine list is the size of a coffee-table book, partly because of the detailed descriptions and information about grape concentrations for each wineâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;often more information than you get on the actual bottle. Best of all, the wines are served at the correct temperature.

2/G B6@33 Today we pay a visit to the Utah Olympic Park, where the only activity required of us is to sit and watch. The Chinese Olympic team is practicing downhill acrobatics with wet suits and a soft landing into an oversized swimming pool. Bobsled rides and extreme zip line rides are available for visiting daredevils. Less intrepid guests should opt for the tour of the facilities. Regardless, watching those hard-working skiers makes us hungry. We drive back up into Deer

Valley for our final meal, at Glitretind at Stein Eriksen Lodge, (435) 649-3700.

Perched high atop the mountain in Deer Valley, the Glitretind recently underwent renovations to enhance the interior and improve the view.

The wine list here features several vintages of Château Yâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Quem and some interesting selections by the glass. The stemware is a trifle disappointing, though; if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re actually serving $300 wines, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d sure like to see a fine Bordeaux glass to swirl it in. But the food more than compensates.

Chef Zane Holmquist has been at the helm of Glitretind for several years, and his seasonal, chef-driven food is polished, elegant and flavorful. We begin with an heirloom tomato soup and a plate of fresh sliced heirloom tomatoes, with a dollop of goat cheese and crispy pancetta.

The presentation is lovely, and the fresh ingredients taste of summer.

All in all, Park City is a place you should endeavor to check off your list of places to see. The combination of great food and breathtaking scenery means you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t regret the trip whether you prefer spending time in the lodge or on the slopes.

Katie Kelly Bell is an Atlanta-based freelance writer covering the good stuff: wine, food and travel.

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Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s No.1? ?

Wine Reportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual top-50 list is a great place to start your own journey to the pinnacle of the wine world Text Steve Stevens Illustrations Neal Aspinall

{ 20 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 21 }

“Wow,” said Rochioli winemaker Tom Rochioli upon finding out his wine was named Wine Report’s best of 2006.

“What an honor, thank you.” Although they could certainly sell more of their highly regarded Pinot Noir, Rochioli Vineyards is selling as much wine as they can make already. They made about 3800 cases of the ’04 vintage and about 4000 cases of the ’05.

Top 50 Wines of 2006 the

“We are definitely operating at capacity,” Rochioli said.

So how should you use this list? Take note of both the producers and the regions represented. Really great wine doesn’t happen by accident. For instance, Rochioli is a venerable estate with a sterling reputation for Pinot Noir. The ’04s may be gone, but it won’t be long before the ’05s are here. Get in line. Look also at the types of wine on the list. Italian Barolos made from the Nebbiolo grape and Spanish wines made from the Tempranillo grape are bunched together at the top of the list for a reason.

The industry has been abuzz with talk of these categories’ excellence for some time now. If you try the Spanish and Italian wine houses you find here, you’ll likely get a great introduction to two of the premier wine categories in the world.

Top 50 Wines of 2006

27. 2004 Dutton-Goldfield Winery, Dutton Ranch,

the

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, Calif.)

28. 1994 Campillo, Gran Reserva Tempranillo, Rioja, Spain

29. 2001 Penfolds Wines, St. Henri Shiraz (South Australia)

30. 2001 Bruno Rocca Barbaresco Barbaresco, taly

31.2003 Domaine de l’Espigouette, Plan de Dieu Cotes du Rhone Villages, France

32.2004 Terrazas de los Andes Winery, Afincado Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina

33. 2005 Schug Carneros Estate Winery Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, Calif.)

34. 2003 Green Point Shiraz (Victoria, Australia)

35. 2003 Vilafonté, Series M

1. 2004 J. Rochioli Vineyards

(Paarl, South Africa) 36. 2004 Schug Carneros, Heritage Reserve Pinot Noir (Carneros, Calif.)

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, Calif.)

2. 2001 Tenuta l’Illuminata, Tebavio

37. 2003 Emilio Moro

Barolo, Italy

3. 1996 Coto de Imaz, Gran Reserva

Tempranillo, Ribera del Deuro, Spain

38. 2003 Chateau Ste. Michelle

Tempranillo, Rioja, Spain

4. 1995 Faustino de Autor, Reserva Especial

Merlot (Columbia Valley, Washington)

39. 2004 Flower’s Vineyard & Winery

Tempranillo, Rioja, Spain

5. 2001 Ceretto, Bricco Roche, Prapó, Brunate

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, Calif.)

40. 2003 Northstar

Barolo, Italy

6. 2003 Salentein, Reserve

Merlot (Columbia Valley, Washington)

41. 2003 Trivento, Golden Reserve

Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina

7. 2001 Ceretto, Bricco Rocche

Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina)

42. 2001 Château Saint-Roch

Barolo, Italy

8. 2001 Barossa Valley Estate, E &E Black Pepper

When I was nine years old, I stole a piece of candy from my sister’s purse.

It was an Atomic Fireball, a candy with a bright red sugary coating that turns instantly into liquid when it touches human skin. Perhaps you can already see the sad ending coming: My mother caught me red-handed— literally—which made it a little tough for me to plead my innocence.

In the end, everyone decides for themselves which wine is their own personal No. 1 wine. But I can guarantee you one thing: This list is a fantastic place to start your journey to the top.

Steve Stevens is Wine Report’s editor in chief.

9. 2003 Row Eleven

Mendoza, Argentina

44.2001 Marchesi di Barolo

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, Calif.)

10. 2001 RODA I, Reserva

Barbaresco, Italy

45.2002 Backsberg, Klein Babylons Toren

Tempranillo, Rioja, Spain

11. 2003 Groom

(Paarl, South Africa)

46.2004 Barone, Fini

Shiraz (Barossa Valley, Australia)

12. 2000 Marchesi di Barolo, Sarmassa

Pinot Grigio, Italy

47.2005 Santa Rita, 120

Barolo, Italy

13. 2004 Jean-Baptiste Adam, Reserve

Sauvignon Blanc (Lontué Valley, Chile)

48.2005 Georges Duboeuf

Gewürztraminer, Alsace, France

14. 2004 Arista Winery, Harper’s Rest

If you know the candy I mean, you might wonder why I risked so much for that little ball of hellfire. They don’t taste good in a traditional sense; in fact, eating one is sort of unpleasant.

They’re so hard that they can chip a tooth, and they have almost no flavor—just a faint patina of sweetness that is quickly obliterated in a blinding flash of volcanic heat. Still, there was an excellent reason why I risked my mother’s wrath to get an Atomic Fireball: It was No. 1 on a “Top Ten Hottest Candies” list.

Such is the power of lists. They pique the curiosity because everyone naturally wonders who or what is No. 1 and if their favorite made the list. Lists challenge the intellect because every list creates disagreement and discussion among people interested in the subject.

So, in our opinion, the arbitrary nature of lists does not make them irrelevant; instead, lists are fun and engaging precisely because they’re arbitrary.

Consequently, I know our list isn’t necessarily more worthwhile than your own list. Is it possible you might like our No. 50 wine more than you like our No. 1 wine? Or that many of your favorites are not on this list? Of course, and that’s okay. Because we compiled this list from the more than 500 wines we tasted this year, there will be many wines familiar to you that are not represented here.

That doesn’t mean they aren’t great wines; it just means we didn’t officially score them this year. Ultimately, no matter what you think of our top 50 wines, one thing is certain: A group of qualified, experienced tasters found them to be extraordinary, so it would probably be worth your while to try them.

On the other hand, getting hold of some of these wines might be easier said than done. For instance, our No. 1 vino, the 2004 J. Rochioli Vineyards Pinot Noir, has been sold out at the winery since June. Still, the venerable Sonoma County winemaking family is happy about the ranking.

Cotes du Rhone, France

43. 2004 Trapiche, Oak Cask

Shiraz (Barossa Valley, Australia)

Chateau de Nervers, Brouilly, France

49.2001 Bruno Rocca, Rabaja

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, Calif.)

15. 2004 Alderbrook Winery

Barbaresco, Italy

50.2003 Fritz Winery

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, Calif.)

16. 2000 Pio Cesare Ornato

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, Calif.)

Barolo, Italy

Wine Report’s No. 1 wine of 2006, the 2004 J. Rochioli Vineyards Pinot Noir

17. 2000 Katnook Estate, Prodigy Shiraz (Coonawarra, Australia)

18. 2001 Conde de la Salceda, Reserva Tempranillo, Rioja, Spain

19. 2004 Marquee Artisan Wines, Signature Shiraz (McLaren Vale, Australia)

20. 2003 Chateau Ste. Michele, Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot (Columbia Valley, Washington)

21. 2004 Domaine Schlumberger, Grand Cru Riesling, Alsace, France

22. 2003 Vilafonté, Series C (Paarl, South Africa)

23. 2004 Piatelli Vineyards Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina

{ 22 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

Merlot (Columbia Valley, Washington)

Paterno Wines

“…the arbitrary nature of lists does not make them irrelevant; instead, lists are fun and engaging precisely because they’re arbitrary.”

24. 2003 Gordon Brothers Cellars 25. 2000 McWilliam’s of Coonawarra Stentiford’s Reserve, Old Vines Shiraz (Coonawarra, Australia)

26. 2004 Foppiano Vineyards Pino Noir (Russian River Valley, Calif.)

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 23 }

Beers that flavor the

Season T oday â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s s e a son a l be e r s h av e a pe digr e e

r e ac h i ng b ac k t o t h e e a r l i e s t day s of br e w i ng text Bob Townsend

photos chris rank

Frederick Bensch, an original partner in the Sweetwater Brewery Company, gets festive at the breweryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tasting room in downtown Atlanta.

{ 24 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 25 }

When Anheuser Busch launched Jack’s Pumpkin Spice Ale as a limited-edition seasonal fall beer in 2005, many industry analysts said this was the latest attempt by the brewing giant— which controls about 50% of the American beer market—to infiltrate the growing American craft beer market.

Then, in September 2006, A-B announced that “Jack is Back” in a publicity campaign promoting the return of their seasonal offering. The campaign and accompanying product roll-out signaled that, at least for now, the company had decided to move forward with its seasonal beer program, including its Winter Bourbon Cask Ale. Big brewing companies may be suddenly remembering that we have four seasons, but for several decades now, many small American craft brewers have built businesses around seasonal beers. Traditional European brewers have been making special beers meant to be consumed in the spring, summer, fall or winter for centuries. In fact, the very notion of seasonal beers is rooted in the most basic brewing processes. phoot

“Historically, the divergence of lager styles from ale styles came about because of seasonality,” says Craig Hartinger of Tukwila, Wash.-based Merchant du Vin, one of the leading U.S. importers of European specialty beers, including Belgian Trappist ales and British and German lagers.

Hartinger explains that centuries ago—before anyone knew about microorganisms, when all yeast in beers was either naturally airborne or had been scooped out of a previous batch of fermenting beer—brewers in Germany, Austria and Czechoslovakia discovered that the beer they brewed in the summer often tasted funny (due to strains of wild yeast bacteria, rampant in the warm months); and the beer they brewed in the winter also often tasted funny (the yeast strains that made good-tasting beer worked slowly or not at all in cold temperatures, allowing bacteria to spoil the wort.)

The solution, Hartinger says, was to brew lots of beer in the spring and fall. The springbrewed beer would be stored in cool caves all summer, then tapped in the fall. This is why Oktoberfest beer became such an honored tradition. Conversely, beer brewed in the fall was stored in caves all winter and tapped in

the spring. One classic example is Maibock, or May beer.

Without knowing it, these European brewers were selecting the yeast strains they used, by brewing only at certain times of the year and thus using only those wild yeasts prevalent in the environment during those periods. After many years, and many generations of yeast, brewers ended up with a type of yeast—lager yeast—that performed well at low temperatures and fermented slowly over a long time. The word “lager” comes from the German verb “lagern,” “to store.” Until the light golden lager (pilsner) revolution of 1840-1860, lagers were mostly seasonal beers.

Meanwhile, in the more moderate climates of Belgium and the British Isles, brewers never really needed to adopt lager yeasts; they brewed ales year-round. But they often made limited batches of stronger, darker beers in the fall to commemorate the harvest or celebrate the holiday season, especially in Britain.

“Brewers love making seasonal offerings,” says Garrett Oliver, brewmaster of Brooklyn Brewery in Brooklyn, N.Y. “It gives us a chance to be creative and to connect with brewing history over the centuries.”

Aside from Oliver’s own winter seasonals, Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout and Brooklyn Monster Ale, he says some of his favorites are Winter Welcome from England’s Samuel Smith and the Christmas ales from Belgian brewers Brasserie Dupont and Corsendonk.

Oliver, author of The Brewmaster’s Table, a modern classic on pairing food and beer, sees the growing popularity of seasonal beers as part of a trend that fits with recent consumer demand for higher-quality, more nicheoriented food and wine.

“There’s no real future in mass-market anything,” Oliver says. “And that includes beer.”

Brian “Spike” Buckowski is the brewer for Athens, Ga.-based Terrapin Beer Co. Buckowski’s flagship beer, Terrapin Rye Pale Ale, is brewed year-round and can be found in bottles or on tap in Georgia and several other southeastern states. But it’s Terrapin’s seasonals—including Big Hoppy Monster in the fall and Wake-n-Bake Stout in the winter—that have captured the attention of beer geeks all over the United States. Big

“For us, it’s a chance to brew outside the box and brew for the connoisseur.”

—Brian “Spike” Buckowski, brewer for Athens, Ga.-based Terrapin Beer Co.

{ 26 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

Left, St. Bernardus, a beer made by Belgium’s Trappist Monks, gets poured often in the Belgium room of the Brick Store Pub in Decatur, Ga.; Right, a glass of Sweetwater Brewing Company’s Festive Ale, straight from the fermentation tank.

Hoppy Monster is currently the secondhighest-rated beer on the fall seasonal list at the ratebeer.com craft beer enthusiasts’ website.

“For us,” says Buckowski, “it’s a chance to brew outside the box and brew for the connoisseur. We call our seasonal beers ‘monster beers’ because they have a lot more flavor and a lot more hops and malts. And the alcohol content is higher, because that plays a big part in the flavor, as well. If you taste Belgian beers that are over 9% alcohol, that has a lot to do with the flavor.”

Buckowski says he always looks forward to the limited-edition winter offerings from two of America’s pioneering craft breweries: Sierra Nevada’s Celebration Ale and Anchor Brewing’s Christmas Ale. “I think Sierra Celebration is one of the top10 beers in the country,” Buckowski says.

“It’s just a great, great beer. I look forward to it every year.”

So the next time you’re deciding which beer to drink, think seasonal. Anheuser Busch and the other big boys may finally be getting into the seasonal beer act, but they’ll always be following in the footsteps of Terrapin Beer, Brooklyn Brewery and other small craft brewers that have already taken the best traditions of yesteryear and updated them for today’s quality-conscious beer drinker.

Bob Townsend writes a weekly beer column for the Atlanta Journal-Constitution and is the editor of Southern Brew News, a bimonthly beer publication distributed throughout the Southeast.

Jesse Smith pours brews for Brick Store regulars Jessica and Selby Neese

a Winter Beer Sampler Winter beers are a diverse lot, but in keeping with the generosity of the holiday season, most provide a little something extra, be it alcohol, malt, hops, spices or a special label

American Craft Beers

British Beers

Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout is a luxurious, vintage-dated Imperial Stout that ages very well. Its rich dark-chocolate flavor and silky mouthfeel make it perfect for pairing with desserts, but it also shines with Stilton or other hearty cheeses. Brooklyn Monster Ale is another big brew that gets more graceful in the cellar. Styled after classic British-style barley wines, it’s warming, complex, and redolent of sherry; a fine accompaniment for cheese, it’s sublime in a snifter on a winter’s night. (Brooklyn Brewery, Brooklyn, N.Y.)

Samuel Smith’s Winter Welcome Ale is the archetype of holiday beers.

Vintage-dated with a special label each year, it’s lighter in color, body and flavor than most of its American counterparts, but its subtle complexities show in a creamy profusion of floral hops and honey malt.

(Samuel Smith Old Brewery, Tadcaster, North Yorkshire, England)

Big Hoppy Monster gets its name from the profusion of spruce-citrus hop aromas and flavors in this Imperial Red Ale. A caramel-sweet malt backbone helps bring all that lupulus intensity into balance. This year’s model is a tad dryer; pair with fiery Asian, Indian or Mexican dishes. Wake-n-Bake Coffee Oatmeal Imperial Stout has as much going on as its moniker would imply.

Brewed with a blend of roasted coffees, it’s as rich and flavorful as a good cup of joe, and surprisingly caffeinated. Maybe not for breakfast, but certainly good for after dinner. (Terrapin Beer Co., Athens, Ga.) Celebration Ale has become a holiday tradition. Roughly an India Pale Ale, it’s hoppy and lively, with an herbal aroma and a robust, bittersweet flavor that doesn’t tire the taste buds. What more can you ask from a big but convivial session ale? Pair with wood-grilled steak or smoked salmon.

(Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., Chico, Calif.)

Anchor Christmas Ale (aka “Our Special Ale”) is another muchanticipated winter seasonal, sold only from early November to mid-January for more than 30 years. Each vintage has a unique recipe and label, but the flavors and aromas are always reminders of the season, with variations on cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and piney hops; a mysterious winter warmer for fireside savoring. (Anchor Brewing Co., San Francisco, Calif.)

Highland Cold Mountain Winter Ale is a relative newcomer among holiday craft brews, but it’s quickly become a favorite. Like Anchor, Highland varies the recipe each year, but it’s typically malty, lightly hopped, and flavored with spices; try it with spice cake or gingerbread.

(Highland Brewing Co., Asheville, N.C.) Sweetwater Festive Ale is a bigger, bolder take on the company’s awardwinning porter. Packaged in a very merry 22-ounce bottle with a red wax stopper, this winter warmer blends snappy spice with dark-roasted malts.

(Sweetwater Brewing Co., Atlanta, Ga.)

J.W. Lees’ Vintage Harvest Ale is only brewed once a year to celebrate the barley and hop harvest, and is released in a limited edition each Dec. 1st. Call it a barley wine or an old ale, at 11.5 % alc./vol. It’s a delightful treat, with rich caramel, toffee and dark fruit flavors that make it perfect for sipping while enjoying Stilton and other intense cheeses. Look for vintage editions fermented in casks with sherry, port, clavados or whiskey.

(J.W. Lees & Co. Brewers Ltd., Manchester, England)

Belgian Beers

Avec Les Bons Voeux is the Christmas beer from Brasserie Dupont, famed for its exquisite Saison Dupont Belgian farmhouse ale. Aromatic with herbal, peppery and slightly musty notes, the palate is a velvety cornucopia of bitter, sweet and fruity flavors, with a punchy alcohol presence. Serve with spicy foods, including Thai and Indian dishes, or hearty cheeses, such as Gouda or cheddar. (Brasserie Dupont, Tourpes-Leuze, Belgium) Corsendonk’s Christmas Ale is a Belgian strong dark ale with all kinds of holiday flavor: dark fruit, candy sugar and spicy alcohol, with hints of chocolate and smoke. Serve it with roasted meats, such as beef or duck, or plum pudding.

For an extravagant Christmas gift, look for the giant 3-liter bottle.

(Brouwerij Corsendonk, Oud-Turnhout, Belgium)

~Bob Townsend

Clockwise from top left; Kevin McNerney, Bensch’s original partner in the Sweetwater Brewing Company, tests a glass of his seasonal brew; Empties wait on the Sweetwater bottling line to get filled and labeled; acid stained concrete at the Sweetwater’s downtown tasting room; the Brick Store Pub’s famous upstairs taps

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 29 }

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Cranberries are a traditional holiday treatâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and a nutritional powerhouse Text Hope S. Philbrick

Photos Cape Cod Cranberry Growers Association

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 33 }

’Tis the season for abundant temptations, but there’s one seasonal treat you don’t need to resist: Have as many cranberries as you want. Not only are they non-fattening; they’re downright good for you.

the standard for fresh fruit is how long it will keep.” This presents a challenge to farmers, who may start to harvest as early as September, while “we as consumers really don’t start to use [fresh cranberries] until near Thanksgiving,” says Sorenson.

If an apple a day keeps the doctor away, a daily dose of cranberries might put some doctors out of work altogether. Cranberries are “really a disease avoider,” says Martin Starr, PhD, science advisor to the Cranberry Institute. Why are cranberries so good for you?

They’re high in Vitamin C, which has well-known health benefits, but they’re also high in proanthocyanidins (PACs), a class of chemical compounds with some uncommon—and important—diseasepreventing properties.

Cranberries grow on a perennial, low-lying vine that lives in “bogs”— land characterized by waterlogged layers of sand, peat, gravel and clay.

In wet-harvesting, cranberry bogs are flooded, and then the fruit is “beaten” off the vine using a special harvester. Dry-harvested fruit is “combed” from the vines using a mechanized picking machine.

Starr says PACs promote health because of their bacterial anti-adhesion characteristics. Simply put, when PACs are present, “The bugs don’t stick,” he says. For instance, if E. coli bacteria invade a person’s urinary tract, the bacteria would normally adhere to cells in the tract, causing all sorts of negative symptoms. But if that person has been eating cranberries, the anti-adhesion properties of the PACs in the cranberries will prevent the bacteria from adhering to the cells.

“If these bacteria cannot adhere, they cannot multiply and cannot cause symptoms; and if the bugs can’t stick, they get flushed out of the system,” Starr explains. The bacterial anti-adhesion properties of cranberries give them the power to help prevent urinary tract infections, stomach ulcers, heart disease, and gum disease. The PACs in cranberries might even help fight cancer, Starr says. “We’re talking about prevention here, not cure,” he says by way of clarification.

Cranberries are also high in antioxidants, a class of chemical compounds that many studies have linked with cancer prevention, decreased risk of stroke, and reduction in blood cholesterol levels.

“The reason I like to talk about cranberries is that lots of fruits and vegetables have antioxidants, but studies have shown that cranberries have the highest amount of antioxidants per calorie,” says dietitian Maye Musk, MS, RD. Another health benefit of cranberries: They’re low in calories. Musk frequently advises her clients to add cranberries to their diets, especially those who are trying to lose weight. “I find dried cranberries are the easiest way to add cranberries,” Musk says. “Put them in cereal every morning; enjoy them as an afternoon snack. An ounce of dried cranberries instead of a brownie satisfies a sweet tooth, and when you’re trying to lose weight, you still have to feel good; there’s a mode of psychology involved. Dried cranberries are a really nice treat when you finish a meal and want something sweet. Also, they are something you can actually take on an airline.” What about the naturally occurring sugar content of cranberries? “I don’t worry about that,” Musk says. “I’ve never had a client who overeats on any type of fruits or vegetables.”

It’s good to know there’s at least one traditional holiday food that isn’t bad for you. But how did cranberries wind up on the holiday table in the first place? No one is really sure, but we do know that cranberries, blueberries and Concord grapes are the only three fruits native to North America; therefore, Native Americans are generally credited with discovering all three. It’s possible that cranberries were on the menu at the first Thanksgiving meal.

Today, cranberries are commercially grown in the northern part of the United States and are harvested in September and October. “Growers either dry-harvest or wet-harvest their fruit,” says Irene Sorensen, grower relations representative with Ocean Spray Cranberries. “The method depends on what’s available at their farm or what the fruit will be used for. Typically, dry harvest is used for fresh fruit—what you buy in plastic bags, a much smaller and seasonal market—while wetharvested fruit is used for juices, sauce or dried cranberries. It’s really the farmer’s choice. Only eight percent of the fruit is dry-harvested. It takes special care to produce really high-quality fresh fruit, because

{ 34 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

Cranberries, blueberries and Concord grapes are the only three fruits native to North America; therefore, Native Americans are generally credited with discovering all three.

It’s possible that cranberries were on the menu at the first Thanksgiving meal.

“We have bogs that have been producing cranberries for more than 100 years,” says Sorensen. A cranberry vine is “very much like a strawberry vine,” she says. “Runners keep sending out roots that send out shoots.

That’s how the plant propagates.” Cranberries are a difficult crop to manage, Sorensen notes. “Cranberry farmers need to maintain their fields during the winter months, managing and nurturing the vines so they will come out of a dormant state. There’s a lot of work to it. It’s not as intense as a dairy farm, but it’s still something that you have nurture 12 months out of the year.”

Like grapes, cranberries boast different varietals, such as Early Black, Howe, Searles, Stevens and Ben Lear. The differences among cranberry varietals reside less in taste than in color, says Sorenson. “We don’t use artificial colors in our [Ocean Spray] products, so color is an attribute we’re definitely looking for,” she says.

Variations in color don’t affect the fruit’s health benefits, Starr says.

“I would say that, fundamentally, a cranberry is a cranberry,” he says. “All cranberries have basic similarities in terms of quantities of some of the active materials. The fundamental difference between white cranberries and the more mature berries is that white hasn’t yet developed anthocyanins, which is the red pigment.

“Because we’ve learned that the residency time of PACs in the body is eight to ten hours, I think it would be a good idea to consume some cranberry twice a day, in the morning and evening, to have PACs available virtually 24 hours a day,” Starr says. To maximize benefits, Starr recommends consuming eight ounces of cranberry juice every ten hours. According to a study by Ocean Spray, one eight-ounce glass of cranberry juice cocktail contains just as many PACs as 1/4 cup of fresh or frozen cranberries, 1/3 cup of sweetened dried cranberries or 1/3 cup of cranberry sauce.

But isn’t fresh fruit naturally healthier than fruit juices or sauces?

“While some losses are inevitable during processing and storage, most of the research on health benefits has included various finished products as well as the raw fruit, so we can conclude that the bulk of the phytonutrients survive the cooking process,” Starr says. So feel free to reap the benefits of cranberries by choosing the cranberry product you enjoy most.

“You can get the recommended servings in very easily,” says Musk, who suggests adding cranberries to beverages and foods enjoyed throughout the day. “Add cranberries to salads for a really nice taste. Mix cranberry juice with vodka for martinis.” Musk suggests that, with so many options available, “Cranberries should always be on your grocery list.”

Sounds like a good New Year’s resolution.

Hope S. Philbrick is an assistant editor for Wine Report.

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 35 }

Get Cooking With

Cranberries

The versatile cranberry can serve as a featured ingredient in recipes ranging from breakfast to dessert. Here are a few ideas to get you started.

Spicy Cranberry Turkey Wrap 1 cup orange juice 1 cup sugar 1 12-oz. bag fresh or frozen cranberries ½ cup currants or raisins ½ cup onion, diced ¼ cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon jalapeño pepper, seeded and diced 1 teaspoon garlic, minced ¾ teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 lb. turkey breast cutlets ½ cup spreadable goat cheese or cream cheese 4 10-inch flour tortillas 4 large leaves of romaine lettuce or leaf lettuce 1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped 1 apple, thinly sliced Place first 10 ingredients in medium saucepan. Boil 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until cranberries burst and sauce is thickened. Refrigerate.

Sauté cutlets in lightly oiled skillet over medium heat, 5 minutes per side, until turkey is no longer pink in center and reaches internal temperature of 170°F. Cool and cut into strips.

Spread 2 tablespoons cheese over tortilla to within ½ inch of edge. Layer lettuce, ½ cup turkey, ¼ cup cranberry sauce, ½ teaspoon cilantro and several apple slices on top of cheese. Salt and pepper to taste.

Fold tortilla bottom and top over filling; fold one side to center; fold last side overlapping center; roll tight. Makes 4 servings.

Nutritional analysis per serving: Calories: 510 (26% calories from fat). Protein: 35 g.

Carbohydrate: 67 g. Fiber: 5 g.

Cranberry-Berry Smoothie

Combine the following ingredients in a blender until smooth: 1 banana 1 cup frozen raspberry low-fat yogurt 2/3 cup cranberry juice ½ cup frozen blueberries ½ cup frozen raspberries Makes 2 servings.

Nutritional analysis per serving: Calories: 247. Protein: 3 g. Fat: .4 g (1% calories from fat). Saturated fat: 0 g. Carbohydrates: 59 g.

Cholesterol: 0 g. Fiber: 5 g. Sodium: 73 mg.

Cranberry Sparkle ½ shot brandy* 3 shots sparkling cranberry-apple juice, chilled 3 shots extra-dry white wine or Champagne*, chilled Pour ingredients into a Champagne flute. Garnish with a whole fresh cranberry. * To create a nonalcoholic version of the Cranberry Sparkle, substitute 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice and 2 shots chilled ginger ale for the alcoholic ingredients.

Cranberry-Pear Salad with Curried Hazelnuts Dressing 8 oz. plain fat-free yogurt 1 cup cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped 1 tablespoon honey 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon dried tarragon 1 teaspoon chives, chopped ¼ teaspoon garlic, minced ¼ teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper

Fat: 12 g. Saturated Fat:

Hazelnuts 1¾ cups (8 oz.) hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped 1 tablespoon butter, melted ¼ cup light corn syrup 3 tablespoons honey ¾ teaspoon curry powder ¼ teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper 1½ teaspoons butter

Salad 2 cups (4 oz.) spinach leaves, washed 1½ cups (4 oz.) spring greens, washed and torn 1 1/3 cups (6 oz.) cranberries, sweetened, dried 1 Anjou pear, cored and cubed 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into thin strips ¼ cup green onions, thinly sliced

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Process dressing ingredients in food processor or blender until smooth. Preheat oven to 300°F. Place hazelnuts in large bowl. Pour melted butter into 9-inch x 9-inch x 2-inch pan; set aside.

Stir corn syrup, honey, curry powder, salt and cayenne pepper over heat in small saucepan until boiling. Boil 2 minutes; do not stir. Stir in 1½ teaspoons butter until melted. Immediately pour over nuts. Stir until coated.

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Spread nut mixture into prepared pan. Bake at 300°F for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown. Pour baked nuts onto buttered baking sheet; cool. Break nuts into small pieces.

Makes 2½ cups.

Place salad ingredients in large bowl. Toss with dressing. Sprinkle 1 cup of curried hazelnuts on top. Makes 4 servings.

Nutritional analysis per serving: Calories: 420 (33% calories

6 g. Cholesterol: 105 mg.

from fat). Protein: 8 g. Carbohydrate: 68 g. Fiber: 8 g. Fat: 17

Sodium: 430 mg.

g. Saturated fat: 2.5 g. Cholesterol: 10 mg. Sodium: 310 mg.

{ 36 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

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year-round

SYSTEM

sparkle Sparkling wines are all the rage in Europe, but why arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t they more popular here in the U.S.?

The holidays are when Americans buy sparkling wines.

Unless youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re on a really good baseball team, in which case you might buy some in October for a celebratory locker room shower. But no matter when you buy it, one thing remains constant: Sparkling wine makes people happy. It might be the thunderous pop of the cork or the ebullient bubbles that careen gleefully around the inside of your glass and mouth.

Whatever the reason, Americans buy the vast majority of their sparkling wines in the month of December for parties and New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eve; and in February, for Valentineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day. In other parts of the world, especially in Europe, the approach to sparkling wines is quite different.

They are not treated as a once-a-year indulgence but as a part of everyday life. Friends coming over for dinner? Pop open a bottle. Need a light aperitif after a hard dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work? Try a sparkler.

But so far, despite the marketing efforts of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most powerful sparkling wine companies, Americans have resisted this notso-subtle nudge toward the European way. And thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s too bad. Because judging by the quality of the wines in this round of reviews, the ones missing out are the Americans who wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t open their minds to some old traditions.

90 to 100 Points: OUTSTANDING

80 to 89 Points: VERY GOOD 70 to 79 Points: AVERAGE 60 to 69 Points: FLAWED

Wine Reportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

RATING SYSTEM

All wines are tasted blind in our Atlanta office by a panel of four to six tasters. Qualified tasters must meet criteria set out by the magazine. The wines are rated on a weighted 100-point scale in four categories: appearance (5%), aroma (20%), taste (60%) and food friendliness (15%). To gauge a wineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food friendliness, panelists taste the wine with roasted chicken for white wines or rare roast beef for red wines. Once the tasters have completed their sensory evaluation of the wines, they are given the price of the wines so they can determine whether the wine is an exceptional value, overpriced or neither. In case of a tie, the editorial staff makes a determination. Tasters are not allowed to change their comments or scores once the prices have been announced.

Wines are selected based on their availability in the Atlanta, Charlotte and Birmingham areas. In most cases, the wines reviewed are available in at least one of the three cities.

The prices listed are suggested retail prices provided by the winery, winery representative or distributor.

If your store would like to be a part of this page, call The Wine Report office at (678) 985-9494 Inside the Atlanta perimeter - contact Jeff Piersol at ext. 103 Outside the Atlanta perimeter - contact Bill Burrows at ext. 104 { 38 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 39 }

2003 Vilafonté, Series C (Paarl, South Africa)

{re views} The following label reproductions are paid advertisements although an impartial tasting panel produced the reviews and scores contained therein.

1995 Faustino de Autor, Reserva Especial, Rioja, Spain

2003 Row Eleven Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, Calif.)

SUMMARY: With a deep, purple core bleeding out to an orange rim, this wine has aromas of smoke, oak and blackberries. On the palate, it wowed tasters with tones of coffee, chocolate, leather and a little mint.

Top 50 Rank: #4

2000 Marchesi di Barolo, Sarmassa, Barolo, Italy

2001 Conde de la Salceda, Reserva, Temmpranillo, Rioja, Spain

2003 Chateau Ste. Michele, Canoe Ridge Estate, Merlot (Columbia Valley, Washington)

SUMMARY: “Classic. It looks like a Barolo,” said a panelist of this cranberry- and brickcolored wine. Aromas of dark berry, bright cherry, “violets and geraniums” excited desires for a sip of this full-bodied, well structured stunner.

Flavors of prune, currant, blackberry and spice surged through an elegant layer of tannins to bring this masterpiece to an opulent close.

Top 50 Rank: #12

SUMMARY: Bright cherry colored; presented rich aromas of leather, earth, dried fruit and oak. Flavors of dried fruit, mild oak, nutmeg and cocoa.

An elegant balance of smooth tannins, acidity and rich fruit.

Top 50 Rank: #9

2004 Arista Winery, Harper’s Rest Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, Calif.)

SUMMARY: Ruby red in color; presented aromas of baked cherry pie, oaky vanilla and dried cherries. Flavors of berries, vanilla and oak. Finished with crisp acidity and balanced tannins.

Top 50 Rank: #14

2004 Marquee Artisan Wines, Signature, Shiraz (McLaren Vale, Australia)

SUMMARY: Ruby plum appearance with enticing whiffs of vanilla, rose petals, cedar and cassis. Dry, powerful and amazingly juicy with heart warming flavors of smoke, dusty-fig, blackberry and caramelized plum enveloped the tongue before fading to a gratifying finish.

Top 50 Rank: #18

- s p e c i a l a dv e r t i s i n g s e c t i o n -

SUMMARY: “Brilliant” colors of dark red and purple shimmered in the bowl, enticing panelists to investigate what this beauty had to offer.

What they found was a wine that hummed with aromas of blueberry, black pepper and cassis.

The energy continued to vibrate on the palate, spreading out flavors of juicy “candied fruit,” blackberry, clove and a gentle herbaceousness that had the perfect balance to make an elegant impact on the lingering finish.

Top 50 Rank: #19

SUMMARY: This dark purple wine tickled panelists’ noses with alcohol, dried strawberry, cocoa and herb aromas. Spicy cherry berry flavors tumbled across the palate and lingered into smooth notes of prune, strawberry and tobacco. The pleasant, velvety mouthfeel invited additional sips.

Top 50 Rank: #20

1994 Campillo, Gran Reserva, Tempranillo, Rioja, Spain SUMMARY: A beautiful blood red wine with aromas of roasted coffee, dried fruits, oak and leather. Medium bodied with balanced-but-thick tannins alongside enticing flavors of strawberry, clove and cinnamon.

SUMMARY: This glass-coating ruby wine was slow to reveal its smoked cedar, toasted herbs, berry, fern and faint vanilla aromas. But flavors of dark cherries, dark chocolate, black olives and minerals arrived with a bang. Adding to the complexity, mint and licorice flavors lurked in the background. Though generally “smooth and integrated,” alcohol added a bit of heat. Panelists noted a drying mouthfeel and that “it could have a bit more weight” leading up to its long finish.

Top 50 Rank: #22

2003 Vilafonté, Series M (Paarl, South Africa)

Top 50 Rank: #28

2005 Schug Carneros Estate Winery, Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, Calif.)

SUMMARY: Brick red hue, with an aromatic offering of cassis, cherry, gentle oak and dried plums. Flavors of dark berries, prune, and tart raspberries wrapped in a sweet, smooth blanket of tannins.

SUMMARY: Like fine handblown crystal, the nose of this inky purple wine was “delicate without being simple.” Whiffs of blueberry, coffee, violet, red licorice and oak entranced panelists. Layered flavors of dark berries, dark chocolate, earth and tobacco ran deep. Though peppery, the mouthfeel was well-balanced. The shortish finish left a vaguely bitter aftertaste—“but blame it on its youth.” While good now, the wine needs time to reach its full potential.

Top 50 Rank: #33

Top 50 Rank: #35

2003 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Merlot (Columbia Valley, Washington)

2004 Schug Carneros Estate Winery, Pinot Noir (Carneros, Calif.)

SUMMARY: Garnet colored with soft aromas of violets, fresh picked black cherries, plums and dried herbs.

Rich fruit flavors of black berries played a friendly tug of war with the balanced tannins.

Top 50 Rank: #36

SUMMARY: Layers of cedar, spice, vanilla and jammy red fruits wafted up from this bright ruby red wine while pleasing and well balanced flavors of rich black cherry leather and dried dark fruit coated the tongue with meaty merlot flavors. Balanced tannins made way for the velvety fruit on the clean dry finish.

Top 50 Rank: #38

- s p e c i a l a dv e r t i s i n g s e c t i o n -

{re views} 2003 Northstar, Merlot (Columbia Valley, Washington)

2001 Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco, Italy

SUMMARY: Intense and elegant, this dark garnet wine opened with inviting aromas of raisin, plum, cocoa, leather and oak. Complex, well-structured flavors of berry, cherry, oak and spice skipped across panelists’ tongues. The long finish lingered on fruit and pleasant tannins.

SUMMARY: Dark red with a touch of brown, this wine packed aromas of grape, sour raspberry, prune, eucalyptus and alcohol. Muscular and mouth-filling, it attacked the palate with tart grape, dried cherry, baked berry, licorice and eucalyptus flavors plus a strong tannic backbone. This quaffer was “a great flavor treat” with “lots of complexity,” tasters said. After a big, balanced and sturdy start, it tapered off to a “satisfying” conclusion, lingering on hot cherry juice.

Top 50 Rank: #40

Top 50 Rank: #44

2005 Santa Rita, 120, Sauvignon Blanc (Lontué Valley, Chile)

1995 Gloria Ferrer, Carneros Cuvée (Sonoma County) SUMMARY: A deep amber color with a green tint, this sparkler smells of baked apples, bread, pears and vanilla. Mouthwatering flavors of honey butterscotch and vanilla are balanced with lively acid to a mediumlength finish. Try this beauty with pasta and new potatoes sautéed in a light, garlic lemon sauce.

SUMMARY: Clear gold in appearance, this wine displayed intense new world Sauvignon blanc characteristics of green grass, lemon-citrus and gooseberry aromas. The flavors of refreshing green apple, rich broad roasted pear and firm, the finishing flavors of delicate citrus and balanced spice, suggest that you have scored a wonderful bottle of wine.

93 points

AMERICAN Sp a rk l i n g W i ne s 93

Gloria Ferrer, Carneros Cuvée (Sonoma County)

$50

Summary: A deep amber color with a green tint, this sparkler smells of baked apples, bread, pears and vanilla. Mouthwatering flavors of honey butterscotch and vanilla are balanced with lively acid to a medium-length finish.

Food Friendliness: Try this beauty with pasta and new potatoes sautéed in a light, garlic lemon sauce.

POINTS

93

2001 Mumm Napa, Blanc de Blancs (Napa Valley, Calif.)

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Napa Chardonnay reviews

$25

Summary: This gorgeous garnet-colored wine got panelists’ attention POINTS with intense aromas of leather, blackberries, roasted wood and cherry.

Flavors were of cool earthiness, black pepper, spices and fresh-baked wild berries.

Finishing tannins perfectly supported the medium body on.

Food Friendliness: Classic pairings of oysters, soft cheese and shellfish are perfect for this timeless sparkler.

92

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2000 Domaine Carneros, La Rêve, Blanc de Blancs (Napa Valley, Calif.)

$65

Summary:Crisp, fruity aromas of pear and apple pave the way for flavors of vanilla, butter, brown sugar and green apple. A smooth mouthfeel keeps the brisk acid in check. The finish is a balance of Granny Smith apple and yeast.

POINTS

Food Friendliness: Go for a fruit plate with soft herbed cheeses.

Top 50 Rank: #47

Korbel, Brut Natural (California)

Korbel, Brut (California) SUMMARY: Tasters found complex aromas of apples, baked bread, orange zest, nuts and honey in this wine.

Flavors were pleasantly yeasty, with peach, banana and moderate acid. Try this versatile wine with pasta, chicken or a fruit plate.

SUMMARY: Yellow-hued with a thick coat of bubbles, this wine offered scents of bananas, melons and sawed wood. Lemon peels and unripe peach flavors carried over on the lingering finish, with bright acid and sour apples. A plate of fruit and hard cheese would partner well.

90 points

90 points

Graceland Cellars, All Shook Up, Brut (California)

92

87 points

(Green Valley, Calif.)

Summary: This mellow yellow wine’s tempting aromas of vanilla, honey, green apples and cantaloupe give way to a palate of bold but pleasant acidity. Balanced with flavors of pear, vanilla pudding, toast and cinnamon apples, it ends after a lingering, gratifying finish.

$33

POINTS

Portugal

Food Friendliness: Try this winner with roasted poultry.

92

POINTS

2003 Iron Horse Vineyards, Wedding Cuvée (Green Valley, Calif.)

California

I TA LY

Germany

Australia

France

Austria

Chile

Spain

South Africa

$34

Summary: Colored a deep ruby; aromas were of fresh cherry, black olives, earth and fresh herbs. Flavors of blackberries, mushrooms, smoked cherries, leather, plums and cassis. Incredibly well balanced; lingering finish.

Food Friendliness: Would pair well with oysters or Brie.

92

POINTS

SUMMARY: The color of dry straw, this wine had mild aromas of yeast, apples and toast. Flavors of apples, lemon peel and a touch of honey ended on a slightly sweet finish.

Try as an aperitif with Brie.

1998 Iron Horse Vineyards, Blanc de Blancs

2003 Kluge Estate Winery & Vineyard, Brut (Monticello, Va.)

Your journey awaits at WineStyles, where

$38

remarkably priced between $10 and $25.

L O C AT I O N S :

Food Friendliness: Try with oysters or roast chicken.

POINTS

2002 Schramsberg Vineyards, Blanc de Blancs (California)

Summary: This straw-yellow sparkler teases with pear, apple, apricot, honey and peach aromas. Succulent flavors of apple pie, peach, banana and bread dough are wonderfully balanced with a slightly aggressive acidity.

refreshing, clean, bright flavors of citrus, apple & pear salads, flaky fish, shellfish, spicy dishes, cheese

arranged by flavor and taste with most wines

Summary: This rich yellow winner offers tempting aromas of green

apple, lemon peel, yeast, pear and lime. Healthy acidity livens up flavors of lemon, lime, butter, banana, sour candy and yeast, ending up in a medium-length finish.

92

CRISP

you will find world-class wines uniquely

$33

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Food Friendliness: Pair this one with angel-hair pasta in a light garlic sauce.

CRISP

- s p e c i a l a dv e r t i s i n g s e c t i o n -

SILKY

RICH

B U B B LY

FRUITY

MELLOW

BOLD

N E C TA R

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 43 }

{re views}

92

2000 Schramsberg Vineyards, Reserve (California)

$80

Summary:This clear, pale yellow wine’s charming aromas of toast, apple, hazelnut and caramel pointed the way to refreshing flavors of vanilla, pear apple and apricot. Light-bodied and briskly acidic, it ended with a lengthy, creamy finish.

Food Friendliness: A fresh herb-crusted salmon would be an excellent partner for this sparkler.

POINTS

91

2001 Iron Horse Vineyards, Russian Cuvée (Green Valley, Calif.)

Summary: A clear, pale yellow with highlights of gold, this wine boasted aromas of apple pie, pear, melon, honey and toast. Refreshing flavors of almond, pear, citrus peel, tropical fruit and honey delivered a balanced treat through a lengthy finish.

$29

POINTS

1999 Mumm Napa, DVX (Napa Valley)

$45

POINTS

$22

POINTS

Summary: A golden straw in color, this wine had aromas of honey, peach, golden apple, yeast, caramel and citrus. Tastes of fresh bread and tropical fruit are highlighted by elegant notes of minerality.

$28

POINTS

2001 Iron Horse Vineyards, Classic Vintage Brut (Green Valley, Calif.)

Summary: A clear wine with pale yellow tinges, this one provided aromas of fresh bread, candied apples and grapefruit. A light-bodied wine with a crisp, dry mouthfeel, hints of minerality and flavors of grapefruit and apple.

89

Domaine Chandon, Blanc de Noirs (Napa Valley)

89

Domaine Chandon, Brut Classic (Napa Valley)

89

Domaine Chandon, Riche (Napa Valley)

Summary: This light pink wine greeted panelists with aromas of dried strawberries, cola and cherries. Flavors matched the aromas, and this balanced, medium-bodied wine ended up in a long, powerful finish.

$29

89

POINTS

Domaine Ste. Michelle, Blanc de Blancs (Columbia Valley, Wash.)

Food Friendliness: Try with crackers, cheese and a lemon-garlic hummus.

Food Friendliness: Pair with crusty bread and goat cheese.

90

(California)

Summary: Yellow-hued with a thick coat of bubbles, this wine offered scents of bananas, melons and sawed wood. Lemon peels and unripe peach flavors carried over on the lingering finish, with bright acid and sour apples.

POINTS

Food Friendliness: A plate of fruit and hard cheese would partner well.

{ 44 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

$11

89

2000 Domaine Ste. Michelle, Luxe (Columbia Valley, Wash.)

Summary: This wine showed a yellow hue with a pale green tinge.

Panelists sniffed grilled pineapple, citrus and caramel. Flavors of green apples and minerality gave way to a creamy medium-length finish.

POINTS

Food Friendliness: Try with Cornish hen served with an autumn fruit compote.

(Sonoma County)

89

$16

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Chianti Reviews

Gloria Ferrer, Sonoma Brut (Sonoma County)

$16

Summary: This sparkler has hints of gold, green and yellow with intense aromas of sour apples, yeast and apricot. Aromas of apples, pears carried this wine through a short-to-medium length finish.

Food Friendliness: Try the classic oysters with drawn butter pairing.

POINTS

89

Gruet Winery, Demi-Sec (New Mexico)

Summary: This honey-yellow wine exuded crisp aromas of apple and pear. Flavors of banana, butterscotch, peach and candied apple balanced with a light acidity and a yeasty finish.

$13

Food Friendliness: Pair as a dessert with angel food cake.

$18

89

Mumm Napa, Brut Prestige (Napa Valley)

Summary: A pale straw in color, this wine smelled of tart green apples and biscuits. Butter and banana peels abounded on the palate, along with brisk acid and a balanced, medium-length finish with a touch of yeast.

Cabernet Sauvignon Rich and full bodied with soft chocolate,

$18

POINTS

vanilla, and fresh blackcurrant fruit character.

Perfect with cheese and red meats.

Food Friendliness: Go for a fresh plate of oysters.

$18

89

Mumm Napa, Reserve Brut (Napa Valley)

POINTS Summary: This one displayed a light yellow straw color with green highlights. The enticing aromas of butterscotch and pear were followed by flavors of tart green apples and a long, citrus-filled finish.

$25

Food Friendliness: Try with a creamy cheesecake.

$13

EXCEPTIONAL VALUE

Summary: A very pale yellow, with mild aromas of violets, green apples and bananas. Grapefruit, melon and apples on the palate led to a short but satisfying finish. Well-balanced with moderate acid.

Gloria Ferrer, Blanc de Noirs

Summary: This pinkish wine packed aromas of fresh bread, strawberry and peach. High acid balanced flavors of red berries, wood and hints of yeast through a medium length finish.

Food Friendliness: Try a cheesecake drizzled with a fresh strawberry sauce.

POINTS

POINTS

Summary: This wine presented a pale, golden straw color and clean, intense aromas of caramel, honey and yeast. Dry and balanced, its classic sparkling flavors of green apples, honey, biscuit and lemon carried through a medium-length finish.

Korbel, Brut

$18

Food Friendliness: Serve by itself or as an aperitif.

Food Friendliness: Try this dry, crisp sparkler with roasted or grilled poultry.

90

$18

Food Friendliness: Give broiled scallops a try.

Food Friendliness: Try with a baked white fish or all by itself

(Napa Valley)

(North Carolina)

POINTS Summary: Subtle aromas of pear, apple and brown sugar got this wine off to a great start. Flavors of pear, bread dough, banana and butter balanced moderate acidity, leading to a medium finish.

Summary: Yellow with a golden hue, this wine smelled of lemon peel, bread dough and apples. Dry with medium acid, it provided crisp flavors of apples, biscuits, honey and caramel. A vibrant mouthfeel and a medium-length finish.

90

2003 Biltmore Estate

Food Friendliness: Perfect for bass baked with sun-dried tomatoes.

EXCEPTIONAL VALUE

2003 Domaine Carneros, Brut

89

89

POINTS

POINTS

Summary: Pale salmon in color, this wine had aromatic notes of tart cherry and strawberry. Flavors matched the aromas as this light-bodied quaffer carried a medium acidity through a medium-length mineral-tinged finish.

Food Friendliness: Complex enough to pair with grilled swordfish.

(Anderson Valley, Calif.)

Summary: Tasters found complex aromas of apples, baked bread, orange zest, nuts and honey in this wine. Flavors were pleasantly yeasty, with peach, banana and moderate acid.

Food Friendliness: Try this versatile wine with pasta, chicken or a fruit plate.

$14

POINTS

Summary: The color of dried straw, this sparkler had a full nose of honeysuckle, yeast and notes of grapefruit. Apples, apples everywhere: Complex flavors of candied apples, apple pie and tart green apples balanced with vivacious acid through a nice long finish.

91

(California)

Food Friendliness: Try with grilled snapper topped with mango chutney.

POINTS

Roederer Estate, Brut

2004 Korbel, Brut Natural

POINTS

Food Friendliness: Try with lightly broiled chicken tarragon.

91

90

89

Schramsberg Vineyards, Mirabelle Brut Rosé (California)

POINTS Summary: A cherry-pink rosé, this wine boasted aromas of strawberries, peaches and apricot. After providing raspberry and cherry flavors, this medium-bodied wine ended on a pleasant, medium-length finish.

$24

Food Friendliness: Would pair well with a tenderloin beef salad.

$21

88

Domaine Chandon, Reserve Brut (Napa Valley)

POINTS Summary: Bright, clear and grassy yellow in color, this wine provided aromas of pear, apple and yeast. Flavors of oak, citrus and cream carried a pleasing mouthfeel through to a medium-length finish.

$23

Food Friendliness: Go for a smoked meat to match the oak.

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 45 }

(Columbia Valley, Wash.)

Summary: A light salmon in color, this wine offered an elegant aroma of peach melon and strawberry. Day-old bread, cherries and bananas on the palate gave way to a medium finish.

$13

POINTS

88

(Columbia Valley, Wash.)

$13

Summary: This pale yellow sparkler presented aromas of bread, tart apples, bananas and pears. Medium dry with light acidity, this wine had flavors of baked bread and tart fruit.

POINTS

THOMAS ARVID FRIENDS IN TOWN, 42” X 28”

(New Mexico)

POINTS Summary: This straw-yellow wine exuded aromas of bread, tart apple and toasty biscuits. Light- to medium-bodied, it offered flavors of pear, pineapple and lemon that carried through to a medium finish.

86

Barefoot Bubbly, Brut Cuvée (California)

Summary: This golden-yellow sparkler smelled like crème brûlée, banana and yeast. Flavors of apples, honey and biscuits complemented a simple but supple mouthfeel.

Domaine Ste. Michelle, Frizzante (Columbia Valley, Wash.)

$13

86

Laetitia Winery, Brut Cuvée (Arroyo Grande Valley, Calif.)

Summary: This shimmering golden-yellow wine offered scents of minerality, yeast and tropical fruit. After subtle flavors of sweet lemon and creamy tropical fruit, it ended up in a short-to-medium finish.

Summary: A bronze yellow-gold in color, this wine’s aromas were of burnt toast, cooked apples and dried strawberries. Brisk acidity was balanced by flavors of apple and citrus.

Food Friendliness: Try with a sweet cookie, like a biscotti or macaroon.

Food Friendliness: Pair with a lightly seasoned roast chicken.

2005 Sofia, Blanc de Blancs (California)

Summary: This rich yellow straw-colored wine smelled of melon, apricot and pear. Flavors of bread, honey and peach occupied the palate through a tart, medium finish. A good food wine; consider it with mildly seasoned chicken or pork.

POINTS

$19

Summary: This wine was pale yellow with a green tint, and it smelled of green apples and butter. Flavors of citrus, toast and yeast were balanced by bracing acidity through a short but satisfying finish.

POINTS

$13

Food Friendliness: Pasta sautéed lightly in olive oil and garlic will pair nicely.

87

Graceland Cellars, All Shook Up, Brut (California)

Summary: The color of dry straw, this wine had mild aromas of yeast, apples and toast. Flavors of apples, lemon peel and a touch of honey ended on a slightly sweet finish.

POINTS

85

Mumm Napa, Cuvée M (Napa Valley)

Food Friendliness: Try with grilled chicken and a light chutney sauce.

84

POINTS

Domaine Ste. Michelle, Brut (Columbia Valley, Wash.)

Summary: This light yellow wine had slight aromas of green apples and bananas. Flavors were of nuts and butter. A simple wine with clean, crisp acidity.

$13

Food Friendliness: Try as an aperitif with Brie.

83

Scharfenberger Winery, Brut (Andersen Valley, Calif.)

POINTS Summary: This light golden yellow wine’s aromas of vanilla, honey and bread dough preceded flavors of honey and oak.

A RT I S T I N AT T E N DA N C E

4686 S ATLANTA ROAD, SUITE F, SMYRNA, GA 500 YARDS INSIDE I-285 AT S ATLANTA ROAD 404.794.7762

VININGSGALLERY.COM { 46 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

Napa Valley Meritage Reviews

$18

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Custom, handmade cellar doors too.

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Food Friendliness: Try with pasta with a heavy white cream sauce.

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$13

Food Friendliness: Go for lightly seasoned shellfish or mild cheese.

POINTS

VININGS GALLERY

$18

Summary: Panelists found pear, apple and lemon peel aromas in this peach-hued sparkler. Citrus flavors led to a medium-length honey-tinged finish.

Domaine Ste. Michelle, Premium Cuvée, Blanc de Blancs (Columbia Valley, Wash.)

$22

POINTS

Food Friendliness: A good food wine; consider it with mildly seasoned chicken or pork.

87

$8

Food Friendliness: Try with a lemon cake for dessert.

POINTS

88

$22

POINTS

Food Friendliness: Perfect for a custard tart with strawberries or kiwis.

88

2002 Gruet Winery, Blanc de Blancs

Food Friendliness: Try with prosciutto and crackers.

Food Friendliness: Good with a blue cheese and walnut salad.

Domaine Ste. Michelle, Extra Dry

87

Imported by Prestige Wine Imports New York, NY www.prestigewineimorts.com

88

Domaine Ste. Michelle, Blanc de Noirs

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Bordeaux Reviews wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 47 }

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Travel Guide

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Through Dec. 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 1st Anniversary Celebration at Sharp Mountain Vineyards in Jasper. Cheese and wine tasting, wine discounts and winery tours. Call for details including hours: (770) 735-1210. www.sharpmountainvineyards.com.

Dec. 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Christmas Open House at Crane Creek Vineyard.

Call for details: (706) 379-1236. www.cranecreekvineyards.com.

Dec. 2, 3, 9, 10, 16 and 17 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Santa Claus Visits Château Ă&#x2030;lan, 1-3 p.m.

Also brunch, Like the Dickens carolers and carriage rides on select days.

Call for details: (678) 425-0900 or visit www.chateauelanatlanta.com.

at l a n ta The Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta hosts several events to tempt your taste buds: The Tastes & Techniques cooking class on Dec. 12 features holiday recipes.

Executive Chef Robert Gerstenecker leads the hands-on instruction inside the kitchen at Park 75 from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. $100 per person includes a $25 gift certificate to Park 75 and complimentary valet parking.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Just Grapes on Dec. 15 Executive Chef Robert Gerstenecker is an after work gathering that features casual, interactive wine instruction. Held on the terrace of Park 75 Restaurant & Lounge, from 6 to 7:30 p.m., the event is $40 per person, which includes complimentary valet parking.

Dec. 3 and 17 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Wine Tasting at Toulouse. 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;15 wines with light appetizers.

Themes vary. Starts at 6:30 p.m. $30. Reservations recommended: (404) 351-9533.

The Chocolate Buffet hosted by Executive Pastry Chef David Jeffries is a chocolate loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dream. The event is held Fri. and Sat. evenings now through March 31, from 9 p.m. until Midnight at the Park 75 Lounge.

Cost is $18 per person.

Dec. 3, 10 and 17 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Holiday Open House at Wolf Mountain Vineyards. Enjoy soup and hors dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oeuvres around the Christmas tree with fireside warmth and a wine tasting. $15/person + tax/gratuity. (706) 867-9862.

Check This Out In

Dec. 4 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Magical Feast cooking class at Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Warehouse, Midtown.

Showcases mini plates with holiday flavors; includes wine pairings. 7-9 p.m. $75, benefits Atlanta Community Food Bank. For details or to register call: (404) 892-1444. www.ACFB.org.

Sherlockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wine Merchant hosts free wine tastings every Sat., 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m.

Brookhaven schedule: Dec. 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Wines Off the Beaten Path Dec. 9 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Grand Holiday Tasting Dec. 16 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Sparkling Wines Dec. 23 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; No Tasting Dec. 30 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; No Tasting Decatur schedule: Dec. 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Desserts and Bubblies Dec. 9 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Selections from Big Boat Wine Co. Dec. 16 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Gifts for the Wine Lover Dec. 23 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Gifts for the Wine Lover Dec. 30 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Champagne Party

asheville Through Jan. 1, Christmas at Biltmore Estate is celebrated by decorating the halls and rooms of Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest home with 100+ Christmas trees, more than 400 wreaths and bows, 1,450 poinsettias; miles of evergreen garland; thousands of ornaments, tinsel, and beading; and a 35-foot Fraser fir.

Candlelight Christmas Evenings, offered by reservation only, feature Biltmore House lit as it would have been at the turn of the 19th century â&#x20AC;&#x201D;by fireplace and candlelight. Biltmore Estate Winery offers self-guided tours, cooking demonstrations and complimentary wine tastings throughout the holidays. And for guests looking to extend their stay at Biltmore, the four-star Inn offers several holiday packages.

Biltmore Estate is open Dec. 25 and Dec. 31. Tickets for daytime visits Mon.Thurs. are $42/adult; Fri.-Sun. $44/adult. Evening admission Sun.-Thurs. begins at $35/adult; Fri. and Sat. begins at $55/adult. Children age 10-16 are half the adult price; 9 and under free. For more information or reservations, contact Biltmore Estate, 800-624-1575 or www.biltmore.com.

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Dec. 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Bordeaux Tasting at Sherlockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wine Merchant, Decatur. In-depth discussion hosted by Don Hackett. Limit 10. 7-9 p.m. $100. (404) 377-4005.

Dec. 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Holiday Wines tasting class at Cocktail Hour.

Topic: pairing wine and food. 6:30-8:30 p.m. $35/person. (404) 846-4414. www.cocktail-hour.com.

For more information, call the Brookhaven store at (404) 949-9945 or the Decatur store at (404) 377-4005, or visit www.sherlocks.com.

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CREDIT: Courtesy of Four Seasons

Dining Guide 8JOJOH "OE %JOJOH "SPVOE 5IF 4PVUIFBTU The Southeastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hottest spots for food and wine

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wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 49 }

{calendar} December Ev en ts

January Events

Dec. 7 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Sparkling Wines of the World for the Holidays with Michael Bryan of Atlanta Wine School at Salud! Cooking and Lifestyle School in Duluth. 7-9 p.m. $55. Details and registration online: www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/ calendars/AREsalud.html.

Dec. 16 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Walk and Wine Tour at The Village of Stone Mountain. Refreshments and wine tastings as you meet the merchants and take your empty glass to each location. 6-8 p.m. (770) 413-2045.

Dec. 9 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Straight to the Heart cooking class at Nikolaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Roof, Hilton Atlanta features fresh European seafood. Starts at 11 a.m. $130/person, includes breakfast, vodka tasting, lunch and wines.

Benefits the American Heart Association. (404) 221-6362. www.nikolaisroof.com.

Dec. 22 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Winter Solstice Celebration at Crane Creek Vineyards in Young Harris.

Call for details: (706) 379-1236. www. cranecreekvineyards.com.

Dec. 9 and 16 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Soup and Shopping at Tiger Mountain Vineyards. Sample gourmet soups paired with wines for the holidays, plus artisan breads and cheeses. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. (706) 7824777. wine@tigerwine.com. www.tigerwine. com.

Dec. 9, 16, 23 and 30 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Souper Saturdays. Enjoy homemade soup while relaxing by the fire in the tasting room at Crane Creek Vineyard. (706) 3791236. www.cranecreekvineyards.com.

Dec. 13 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Holiday Brunches cooking class at Whole Foods, Duluth with The Flying Biscuit CafĂŠ Chef Delia Champion. 10:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Call for details: (678) 574-2400.

Dec. 20 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s National Sangria Day!

Dec. 28-30 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Customer Appreciation Week at Sharp Mountain Vineyards in Jasper. Cheese and wine tasting plus drawing for wine of choice.

Call for details including hours: (770) 735-1210. www.sharpmountainvineyards.com.

Dec. 31 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Fire & Ice Celebration Packages. Ring in the New Year at Château Ă&#x2030;lan. 2 simultaneous parties, 7:30 p.m.-12:30 a.m., plus 2 overnight packages with accommodations and more for $449/couple or $599/couple. (678) 425-0900, ext. 41. www.chateauelanatlanta.com.

Dec. 31 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Oceans Ball, Bon Voyage 2006. Celebrate New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eve at the Georgia Aquarium.

Features cruise-inspired cuisine from Wolfgang Puck, live music by Groovetown and deep sea friends. 8 p.m.-1 a.m. $150/ticket; $225/VIP ticket. Details online: www.georgiaaquarium.org.

Dec. 31 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s at Beechwood Inn. 2 Nights lodging, live entertainment New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eve, 2 dinners, breakfasts, wine and Champagne at Georgiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Premier Wine Country Inn. $798 per couple + tax/gratuity. (706) 782-5485. www.beechwoodinn.ws.

A l aba m a Dec. 5 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Bubbly Tasting at The Wine Cellar in Vestavia features a range of prices and styles.

5:30-8 p.m. $5/person with food provided.

(205) 979-2151.

No r t h Ca r o l i n a Dec. 2-3 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Holiday Open House at The Vineyards of Swan Creek: Windy Gap, Raffaldini, Buck Shoals & Laurel Gray Vineyards.

Holiday treats, wine specials and wine gifts.

12-5 p.m. Free event includes complimentary refreshments and a Montepulciano tasting. www. swancreekvineyards.com. RSVP: (336) 835-9463.

Georgia Jan. 3-Feb. 7 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Introduction to Wine, Part 1 with Atlanta Wine School. Every Weds. at The Tavern Bar at Park Tavern. 7-9 p.m. $415/person. Limit 16. (770) 668-0435. Details online: http:// atlantawineschool.com/introwine.php.

Jan. 8-March 26 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Introduction to Wine, Part 1 and Part 2 with Atlanta Wine School. Every Mon. at The Piedmont Room at Park Tavern. 7-9 p.m. $699/person. Limit 20. (770) 668-0435.

Details online: http://atlantawineschool.com/ introwine.php.

Sherlockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wine Merchant hosts free wine tastings every Sat., 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m.

Brookhaven schedule: Jan. 6 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Wines to Start the New Year Jan. 13 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Unique Reds Jan. 20 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Southern Hemisphere Wines Jan. 27 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; French Wines Decatur schedule: Jan. 6 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Wines to Start the New Year Jan. 13 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Wine Grab Bag Jan. 20 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Mama Mia Italiano Jan. 27 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; New Wines from Big Boat Wine Co.

Now Open At l a n t a

For more information, call the Brookhaven store at (404) 949-9945 or the Decatur store at (404) 3774005, or visit www.sherlocks.com.

Jan. 17 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Big Reds wine tasting at Woodfire Grill.

Note monthly tastings now on Weds. 6:30-8:30 p.m. $25/person + tax/gratuity. (404) 3479055. www.woodfiregrill.com.

Jan. 26 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Bargain Buster Wines at Cocktail Hour.

Tasting class reveals tasty deals. 6:30-8:30 p.m. $35/person. (404) 846-4414. www.cocktail-hour.com.

Vino Libro is an eatery and specialty retailer combining books, a bar and tasty plates. Located at 933 Garrett St. in Atlantaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Glenwood Park.

For details call (404) 624-3644 or visit www.vinolibro.com.

Birmingham Pleasure Is All Wine store sells 1,200+ wines including the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest Pinot selection. Tasting bar, artisan cheeses, chocolates, olive oils, gift baskets and special events. 200 Bowling Lane, Ste. 210 in Pelham. (205) 985-4760 or (866) 425-WINE (9463). www.pleasureisallwine.com.

A l aba m a Jan. [Date Not Finalized by Press Time] â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Wine Class at The Wine Cellar in Vestavia with Wendy Watts of Winebow Imports.

Compare Spanish and Italian wines. $25/person.

Reservations required.

Call for details: (205) 979-2151.

Jan. 20 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Fondue Bacchus-Pear Delisse at Wills Creek Vineyard. Reservations required.

Call for details: (256) 538-5452. www.willscreekvineyards.com.

Food&Wine

at The Art Institute of Atlanta

Learn Wine Fundamentals from the Pros Certified instructors from the International Sommelier Guild teach wine history, varieties, tasting, and food pairing in a comprehensive class â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Wine Fundamentals Certificate, Levels 1 and 2, as well as the upper-level Diploma program. For information or to enroll: community and professional education at 770.689.4764 or aiasmartfun@aii.edu.

Enjoy Elegant Food and Wine Pairings at Creations The teaching dining room of The Art Instituteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culinary arts program, Creations offers delicious fusion cuisine in an elegant setting. Senior students directed by skilled chef faculty create six-course dinners for $33 (Wednesdays and Fridays), Ă la carte lunches for $9â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$18 (Thursdays and Fridays) and a new brunch menu on Sundays for $16. Try the Sommelier Menu on Wednesday evenings for $48 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; six incredible courses paired with three special wines!

Reservations required. Call for schedule or visit www. artinstitutes.edu/atlanta/creations.

For more information or reservations: Creations at 770.689.4851 or aiacreations@aii.edu.

www.artinstitutes.edu/atlanta The Art Institute of Atlanta also offers bachelorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, associateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, and diploma programs in design, media arts, and culinary arts.

Experience

BlackStock Winery Dahlonegaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest vines... making Georgiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest wines Open Daily through Winter â&#x20AC;&#x153;In the heart of Wine Countryâ&#x20AC;?

See website for hours and directions

â&#x20AC;˘ 3-Sided Fireplace â&#x20AC;˘ Lodge Setting â&#x20AC;˘ Live Music on weekends 6600 Peachtree Dunwoody Road NE 100 Embassy Row Atlanta, GA 3032 1.800.275.4242

â&#x20AC;˘ Weekend Lunch menu â&#x20AC;˘ Spectacular vineyard and mountain views

XXX CTWX DPN 5PXO $SFFL 3E %BIMPOFHB ("

{ 50 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 51 }

{calendar}

{calendar}

Ongoing Events

Cl asses/clubs

Sherlockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wine Merchant hosts free wine tastings every Sat. in Brookhaven and Decatur. 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m. Also offering wine education classes, frequent shopper program and monthly wine clubs. (404) 949-9945. www.sherlocks.com.

â&#x20AC;˘ Weekend Just Desserts every Fri. evening and all day Sat. feature 3 dessert wines paired with 3 minidesserts. $10/member or $12/non-member. â&#x20AC;˘ Second Vine Around every Sat. features all wines of the week starting at 5 p.m. $2 for every 3 samples.

For details call (770) 393-1110 or visit www.winestyles.net/perimeter.

Birmingham Area The Wine Cellar of Vestavia Hills hosts tastings every Tues., 5:30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7 p.m. $3/person for 6-8 wines. Also holds monthly classes.

Call for details: (205) 979-2151.

Charlotte Area

WineStyles at Perimeter Place hosts a variety of events:

Corkscrew Wine Shop in the Lake Norman area (N. of Charlotte) holds educational wine tastings every Thurs. 6â&#x20AC;&#x201C;8 p.m. Sample 4 wines for $5.

Call Joe at (704) 987-0011 or visit www.4corkscrew.com.

â&#x20AC;˘ Progressive Pampering the 2nd Tues. every month saves 15% off accessories, samples of fine wines, and delicious appetizers for a $5 charity donation. â&#x20AC;˘ Tuesday Tastings feature 6 wines for $6 every Tues., 6-8 p.m.

Beechwood_Ad_04.06.v1

4/20/06

10:06 AM

The California Wine Club hand-selects wines from the best small family-owned wineries.

Shipped with a risk-free, money-back guarantee. $32.95/mo. + shipping includes 2 bottles of Calif. wines and the magazine Uncorked! Call (800) 777-4443 or visit www.cawineclub.com.

Blackberry Farm in TN hosts a Cooking School.

Themes and guest hosts vary. Dec. 10-12 focus on Napa Valley, CA; Jan. 21-23 features Chef Linton Hopkins from Atlantaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant Eugene. Details: (800) 557-8864 or www.blackberryfarm.com.

At l a n t a A r e a Anita LaRaiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wine School Diploma Course begins Jan. 23. Meets 6 Tues., 7â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9 p.m. $300.

Includes new book and tastings covering France, Italy, Australia and more. Register by credit card at (770) 901-9433. Details at www.anitalaraia.com.

Atlanta Wine Club is a community of people who appreciate good food and good wine. Varying

Page 1

Beechwood Inn

)05 56#4

Relax at the Beechwood Inn

GEORGIA'S PREMIER WINE COUNTRY INN

â&#x2C6;&#x201A;

Voted â&#x20AC;&#x153;Number One Inn in North America for a Weekend Escape.â&#x20AC;?

4"6/"4 â&#x2C6;&#x201A;

5"//*/( #&%4 â&#x2C6;&#x201A;

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FINE DINING â&#x20AC;˘ WINE TASTINGS â&#x20AC;˘ WINE CELLAR

David and Gayle Darugh â&#x20AC;˘ Owners/Innkeepers BEECHWOOD INN P.O. Box 429, Clayton, GA 30525 â&#x20AC;˘ 706.782.5485 or toll-free 866.782.2485

www.beechwoodinn.ws

{ 52 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

Atlanta Wine School helps build your wine knowledge and confidence. Novice to Advanced courses available. (770) 668-0435. www.atlantawineschool.com.

The International Sommelier Guild course will be held at Central Piedmont Community College.

Classes begin Feb. 4 and run 12 weeks, 1-8 p.m.

Registration closes in Dec. Details at www. internationalsommelier.com or (866) 412-0464.

The International Sommelier Guild course will be held at The Art Institute of Atlanta.

Classes begin Feb. 4 and run 12 weeks, 1-8 p.m.

Registration closes in Dec. Details at www. internationalsommelier.com or (866) 412-0464.

American Wine Society is a national nonprofit organization dedicated to wine education. Chapter conducts monthly tastings, usually 1st Sun. at 2:30 p.m., averaging $15 per event. Contact Lee Beadles for more information: (205) 664-5583.

Jan. 27 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Napa Valley Mustard Festival Grand Opening. 7-10:30 p.m. at the Culinary Institute of America, Greystone. $100/person before Dec. 29; $135/person after or $175 at the door.

Festival runs through March 31. (707) 944-1133 or (707) 938-1133. www.mustardfestival.org.

Charlotte Area American Wine Society is a national nonprofit organization dedicated to wine education. For more information, call (704) 344-8027, email info@carolinawineclub.com or visit www. carolinawineclub.com.

Winer ies & Tasting Rooms A l aba m a

Bryant Vineyard, Talladega. Open Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m. Please call ahead: (256) 268-2638.

National Ev en ts

Birmingham Area

Taste Italy with La Dolce Vita Wine Tours. 2007 tour dates posted online. 9 itineraries in 6 regions. www.dolcetours.com/tour.htm.

Morgan Creek Vineyards, Harpersville. Free winery tours and wine tasting Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m. Gift shop with custom baskets and accessories. (205) 672-2053, info@morgancreekwinery.com or www.

MorganCreekWinery.com.

Ozan Vineyard & Cellars, I-65 Calera exit 228.

Open Fri. and Sat., 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m. and by appointment for tasting and vineyard tours. (205) 668-6926 or (678) 908-6007. www.ozanwine.com.

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Clayton,Georgia

â&#x20AC;˘ Romantic guest rooms have fine linens, private porches or balconies and fireplaces, private baths, wonderful views, and cozy privacy. â&#x20AC;˘ 63 ft. front porch with view of Black Rock Mountain â&#x20AC;˘ Gourmet breakfast each morning â&#x20AC;˘ Afternoon wine and appetizers â&#x20AC;˘ Gourmet wine dinners and wine tastings by reservation â&#x20AC;˘ Historic terraced gardens

Carolina Wine Club holds classes at the Westye Group SE Showroom Southend, 6:30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;8 p.m.

Topics vary. Series II starts Oct. 10 and Series III starts Nov. 8. For details, call (704) 344-8027, e-mail info@carolinawineclub.com or visit www. carolinawineclub.com.

membership levels; benefits include exclusive discounts. For details visit www.atlwineclub.com.

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The Capital Grille, Atlanta hosts an opportunity to â&#x20AC;&#x153; Wine Downâ&#x20AC;? every Weds., 6-8 p.m. Featured wines are offered for a special price by the glass with complimentary hors dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oeuvres in the lounge. Details: (404) 262-1162. www.thecapitalgrille.com.

Na t i o n a l

â&#x20AC;˘ Drink in Style Thursdays features 12 wines with appetizers. $6/member or $10/non-member.

Beechwood Inn, Clayton, hosts gourmet prix fixe wine dinners almost every Sat. Reservations required. Other events include wine tastings, wine weekend packages and culinary classes. Daily happy hour for guests. 4,000-bottle wine cellar.

(706) 782-5485. www.beechwoodinn.ws.

Tiger Mountain Vineyards

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90 minutes northeast of Atlanta â&#x20AC;˘ Tasting Room open year round.

Winter hours: Fridays, 1 to 5 p.m. â&#x20AC;˘ Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Other times by appointment.

Tiger Mountain Vineyardsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; award winning wines are available throughout Georgia and in Highlands, N.C. Locations in the Atlanta metro area include Star Provisions at Bacchanalia, Buckhead Ritz Carlton, Enoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Nava, Blue Pointe, Sherlockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s/Cookâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Warehouse, Pearsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Ansley Wine Merchants and others.

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wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 53 }

{calendar}

Perdido Vineyards, Perdido. Open Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m. (251) 937-9463. www. perdidovineyards.com.

Vizzini Farms Winery & Market, Calera.

Open for visitors Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thurs. 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 pm.

Fri. and Sat., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10 p.m. (Fine dining 6 p.m.10 p.m., Fri. and Sat.). (205) 685-0655; www.vizzinifarmswinery.com.

White Oak Vineyards, Anniston. Open Fri., 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m.; and by appointment.

(256) 231-7998. www.whiteoakal.com.

Wills Creek Vineyards, Attalla. Open for free tastings Mon..â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m. or by appointment. (256) 538-5452, willscreekwinery@aol.com or www. willscreekvineyards.com.

The Winery on Main, Clanton.

Open Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 11 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m. (205) 280-0482.

Georgia BlackStock Vineyards and Winery, Dahlonega.

Open year-round: Mon., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m.; Tues.â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Wed., by appointment; Thurs.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m.; Sun., 12:30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6 p.m. Live music every Sat. Call (706) 219-2789, e-mail david@bsvw.com or trish@bsvw.com, or visit www.bsvw.com.

Château Ă&#x2030;lan, north of Atlanta, I-85â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Braselton exit. Free self-guided tours, Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Fri., 11 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m.; wine tasting $5. Guided tour and tasting, Sat.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun., noon, 1, 2, 3 and 4 p.m., $5. No reservations required. (678) 425-0900, ext. 6354 or www.chateauelanatlanta.com.

Crane Creek Vineyards, Young Harris. Call ahead for tasting room hours in winter. Tastings $5, includes souvenir glass and chocolate sample.

Guesthouse available. (706) 379-1236. www. cranecreekvineyards.com.

1810 Country Inn & Winery, Thomson, 20 minutes W. of Augusta on I-20 at exit 172; turn right at the Texaco. Tasting room open Tues.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 11 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m. (706) 595-8311. www.1810winery.com.

Frogtown Cellars, Dahlonega. Open every Fri., 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m.; Sat., 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m.; Sun., 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m.

Frogtown Bistro open for lunch every Sat., 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4 p.m. Winetaster brunches every Sun., 12:30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2:30 p.m. Reservations required. (706) 865-0687. www.frogtownwine.com.

{ 54 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

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The Georgia Winery, Ringgold, is located 300 yards west of I-75 at exit 350. (706) 937-WINE. Habersham Vineyards & Winery, Helen. Open daily for tastings at 7025 Main St. (GA 75), half a mile south of Helen in Nacoochee Village. Tasting rooms around Ga.: Highway 365, Baldwin, (706) 778-9463; on the square in Dahlonega, (706) 864-8275; Southern Grace, Juliette, (478) 9940057; Underground Atlanta, (404) 522-9463.

Call the winery at (770) 983-1973 or (706) 8789463, or visit www.habershamwinery.com.

Persimmon Creek Vineyards, Clayton. Open Sat., 11 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m. and by appointment.

Call (706) 212-7380 or visit www. persimmoncreekwine.com.

No r t h Ca r o l i n a Black Wolf Vineyards and The Wolfâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lair Restaurant, Dobson. Wine tasting Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Sun., 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4 p.m. Closed Independence Day. (336) 374-2532. www. blackwolfvineyards.com.

Dennis Vineyards, Albemarle. Open Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m. (704) 982-6090. www.dennisvineyards.com.

The Haw River Wine Trail incorporates 5 wineries in the Piedmont region: â&#x20AC;˘Benjamin Vineyards is open Thurs.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun., 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m. (336) 376-1080. www.benjaminvineyards.com.

Sharp Mountain Vineyards, Jasper. Open Thurs.â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sat., noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m. Closed Sun. (770) 735-1210. www.sharpmountainvineyards.com.

â&#x20AC;˘Creek Side Winery is open Mon., Thurs. and Fri., 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m.; Sat. and Sun., 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m. (336) 584-4117. www.creeksidewinery.com.

Still Pond Vineyard & Winery, Arlington. Open Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 11 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m. (800) 475-1193. grapes@stillpond.com. www.stillpond.com. Nov 18: Holiday Wine Festival, free admission. Good food, great wine, great time.

â&#x20AC;˘GlenMarie Vineyards & Winery is open Thurs.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun. , 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m. (336) 578-3938. www.glenmariewinery.com.

Three Sisters Vineyards & Winery, Dahlonega.

Complimentary tastings/tours. Special Vintnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tastings start at $10; includes wine glass. Open Thurs.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 11 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m.; Sun., 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m. and by appointment. (706) 865-WINE or www. threesistersvineyards.com.

â&#x20AC;˘The Grove Winery is open Fri.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m.; Sun., 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m. (336) 584-4060. www.grovewinery.com. â&#x20AC;˘The Winery at Iron Gate Farm is open Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Fri., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m.; Sun., 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m. (919) 304-9463. www. irongatevineyards.com.

Tiger Mountain Vineyards, Tiger. Tasting room open year round. Winter hours: Fri., 1-5 p.m.; Sat. 11 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m. Minimal charge for groups, please call to schedule. (706) 782-4777. wine@ tigerwine.com. www.tigerwine.com.

Directions and details online: www.hawriverwinetrail.com.

Wolf Mountain Vineyards & Winery, Dahlonega. Call ahead for early Dec. hours. Wine tastings, $8. Educational tour and cellar tasting Sat. and Sun., $15. Closed Dec. 18-March 1, 2007 while the vines sleep. (706) 867-9862. www. wolfmountainvineyards.com.

Moonrise Bay Vineyard, Knotts Island. Open daily 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m. or by appointment. (866) 8889463. www.moonrisebaywine.com.

Martin Vineyards, Knotts Island. Daily 12-5 p.m.

(252) 429-3542. www.martinvineyards.com.

RayLen Vineyards & Winery, 3577 Hwy. 158, Mocksville. Open Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 11 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 p.m.

(336) 998-3100 or www.raylenvineyards.com.

Shelton Vineyards, Dobson. Open Mon.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 10 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m.; Sun., 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m. (336) 366-4724. www.sheltonvineyards.com.

Waldensian Heritage Wines, Valdese. Hours: Thurs.-Sun., 1-6 p.m. or by appointment. (828) 879-3202.

Westbend Vineyards, Lewisville. Tasting room open Tues.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat., 11 a.m.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m.; Sun., 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 p.m.

(336) 945-5032, westbendvineyards@alltel.net or www.westbendvineyards.com.

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wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007 { 55 }

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5 Metro Atlanta Locations

2 Metro Atlanta Locations

1544 Piedmont Road Ansley Mall

Wine Departments Everywhere 1220 Clairmont Road

Alpharetta 2565 Delk Road Marietta

DC BEVERAGE WAREHOUSE 10950 State Bridge Rd, Alpharetta

Decatur

SMYRNA WORLD OF BEVERAGES 4474 S. Cobb Drive, Smyrna

SWEETWATER PACKAGE

3900 Peachtree Ind. Blvd, Duluth Hartigan's Beverage Mart, Peachtree City, GA

3072 Early Street, NW in the heart of Buckhead

3 Metro Atlanta Locations

4856 Hog Mountain Rd. Flowery Branch, GA PACES BOTTLE SHOP 3599 Atlanta Rd., Smyrna

Decatur

Your Dekalb Farmers Market

1554 N. Decatur Rd. Emory Village, Decatur

Windward Beverage Mart, Alpharetta, GA

5462 McEver Rd Flowery Branch, GA

OAKWOOD PACKAGE STORE

10500 Alpharetta Hwy Roswell

2 Atlanta Locations

Publix in the Peach Shopping Ctr. Buckead

5479 Chamblee Dunwwody Rd

I-985 @ Exit #16, Gainesville

21-A Peachtree Place Midtown Atlanta 30309

Smokerise Bottle Shoppe Stone Mountain

The Dunwoody Bottle Shop

Shield's Market

Village Spirits

2 Metro Atlanta Locations

3890 Pleasant Hill Rd. , Duluth

BEVERAGE WORLD PACKAGE STORE 6737 P'tree Ind. Blvd.

Doraville

CANDLER PARK MARKET 1642 McLendon Avenue, Atlanta

Spalding Wine & Spirits 7748 Spalding Dr., Norcross

East Cobb 1272 Johnson Ferry Rd.

Georgia World of Beverages, Peachtree City, GA

Gwinnett County

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Chris Rank

{finally }

a s pa r k l i n g s u c c e s s A volunteer toasts the camera lens at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reserve wine tasting at Wine South, one of Atlantaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier wine festivals. The tasting was held at the Intercontinental Hotel in Buckhead and was part of a 3-day festival which included a larger, more casual event on Saturday and an event open only to the wine and restaurant trade on Sunday.

{ 58 } wine report // winter 2006 :: 2007

Add some sparkle to the holidays.

Celebrate Responsibly. Š2006 F. Korbel & Bros., Guerneville, Sonoma County, CA Producers of fine California mÊthode champenoise champagnes for 124 years. KORBEL is a registered trademark.