Christian Dior fashion article

FASHION

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wonderful world of

dior

an evolving revolution of elegance and style SIOBHÁN CORLEY

If there is one designer who has managed to fundamentally change the direction of fashion, it’s none other than Christian Dior. His revolutionary elegant and feminine designs were first showcased at a modest post-war launch and succeeded in setting the world of women’s fashion alight within days. Dior’s untimely death, several years into his flourishing career, left a gaping hole in the industry. While the Dior brand has survived all these years, the continuation of the true spirit of its creator is down to the talented hands of the inspirational John Galliano.

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01 This vivid hand painted satin organza and tulle dress was one of the highlights from Dior’s Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2010/2011 collection.

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orn to a wealthy family in the French region of Normandy in 1905, Christian Dior grew up in Paris and fell under the spell of the art and cultural scene of the era. Opening a contemporary art gallery in 1928 and using his venture to exhibit the works of his up and coming artist friends, such as Salvador Dali and Christian Bérard, secured his place in elite society. The Wall Street crash in 1931 stalled Dior’s dreams before they had a chance to take off, leaving him and his family struggling to make ends meet. Not to be fazed, the young Dior began to dabble in the industry that would transform his name into a highly regarded brand in the upper echelons of aristocracy, royalty and celebrity, long after his death.

Reinventing himself as a fashion illustrator, he sold his sketches to fashion houses and worked for various designers. The turning point came when he happened upon textile magnate, Marcel Boussac, in 1946; an influential figure who helped Dior create his own couture house. It was at the launch of his first collection, on a dull post-war day in February 1947, that a new chapter in the history of women’s fashion began to be written.

When Dior bravely swung the doors open to 30 Avenue Montaigne, home to the label’s headquarters to this day, Paris’s fashion glitterati stood up and took notice. For this fresh new couturier presented a silhouette that had never been seen before. Flowing skirts and cinched in

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waists oozed a sense of beauty and emanated an air of sophisticated confidence that had never been witnessed in women’s fashion. Within days the international press had catapulted Christian Dior on to the global stage with the publicizing of his ‘New Look’ couture.

Christian Dior was still in his prime when he died from a heart attack in 1957 at the age of 52.

His revolutionary vision caught the eye of the female icons of the time, including Ava Gardner, Eva Peron, Rita Hayworth and Princess Grace of Monaco, and continues to do so as each generation passes. Keeping Dior’s vision alive is an immense challenge as trends and lifestyles change but it’s a feat keenly accomplished by the creative genius of John Galliano.

Brought up in London, John Galliano graduated from the renowned St. Martin’s School of Art in 1984.

Perhaps coincidence, or maybe fate, his graduate collection, Les Incroyables, was inspired by the French Revolution. Little did he know where his inspiration would take him in the years to come and how it would influence his designs to this day. Galliano’s fresh new talent struck the right cord, with prestigious British department store, Browns, ordering the full collection hot off the catwalk. After setting up his own label, a wise move to Paris marked the beginning of Galliano’s bright future. It was here that he was spotted by American Vogue and later LVMH, the owner of the Christian Dior and Givenchy brands.

05 02 Dior’s accessories are highly sought after. This large “Lady Dior” bag in coral and made of calfskin is from the 2011 Cruise Collection.

03 The exquisite Peep Toe Bootie from the new collection.

04 English Tweeds merge with vibrant flowing fabrics inspired by the French Revolution and Dior’s love of the English countryside.

05 Dramatic and extravagant detailing, modeled here on this bright yellow felt coat, makes this collection even more striking.

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Dior is a house that you can rely on to inspire you and let you dream, it empowers and creates the elegant or the escapist with its exquisite cut clothes and fashions.

06 The fabulous “Miss Dior” Shoes.

07 Stay stylish in winter with this chic charcoal mohair jacquard coat and charcoal wool pants.

08 Crafting the renowned “Miss Dior” Shoes.

09 Another luxurious bag in black from Dior’s 2010 Fall collection, the Dior 3D in multi leather.

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First working his magic at the House of Givenchy, Galliano’s unique talent immediately stood out. It wasn’t long before he was promoted and given the covetable title of Creative Director at Christian Dior.

Bringing his own feminine and romantic twist to Christian Dior’s head-turning, individual style has helped Galliano re-invent the ‘New Look’, for which Dior became renowned, time and time again. His first design for the house was worn in December 1996 by Princess Diana of Wales to Dior’s 50th anniversary Gala event. Princess Diana immediately became an avid fan of Galliano’s work and was quickly followed by a host of A-list celebrities, including Sharon Stone, Cameron Diaz and Penelope Cruz. From one heart stealing designer to another, it seemed as though history was repeating itself.

Galliano’s reawakening of Dior’s revolutionary fashion ideal resulted in glowing reviews from such

titles as TIME magazine, who quoted Galliano as being ‘the most influential fashion designer of his generation’. His mix of innovative, yet romantic creations, fused with the essence of Dior style and sophistication, has left celebrities and industry gurus the world over scrambling for tickets to Galliano’s theatrical collection showcases. From the Opera Garneir to Versailles, Galliano always gives Dior an extravagant and magical stage, suitably befitting to his luxurious avant-garde designs.

Dior’s Autumn / Winter collection 2010-11 revisits Galliano’s first dip into the world of fashion design. ‘The Seduction of the Libertine’ combines the romanticism of the French revolution with the mystery of the English countryside. Classic English riding tweeds, so beloved of the original Dior, gently merge with delicate, flowing shirts and floral patterns. The result is a poetic blend of formal conformity with a sprinkling of seduction.

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In an exclusive interview with John Galliano, Durrah finds out how he manages to stay true to Dior’s name while putting his own individual stamp on his designs.

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You’ve been Creative Director at the prestigious House of Dior for over 13 years now. How have you kept the spirit of Dior alive through your designs?

The DNA and Dior signature is very rich and flows like oxygen through the house. Dior’s legacy still very much informs and inspires our work and collections. Mr. Dior created a blueprint for modern fashion, which he launched with a New Look and was determined to push fashion, push boundaries and create beauty - my role is to continue to define this legacy with innovation, luxury and elegance.

How would you describe your individual style?

I am a chameleon, I am a reflection of the here and the now and what surrounds and inspires me today...

10 10 The genius himself, Mr. John Galliano.

11 Smart, feminine and elegantly seductive, the Fall 2010 Collection exhibits Dior’s sense of style to the full.

12 Walking tall….one from a selection of Platform Bootie styles in this season’s collection.

How would you describe the Dior woman?

She is ever changing - always intriguing, inspiring and challenging me. She is a woman that leads rather than follows, is a connoisseur of life and all its creative luxury; she is bold, beautiful, and always immaculate.

What or who is your inspiration?

I am in a constant quest; I am always looking and finding inspiration and ideas. The ‘who’ and the ‘what’ can vary from day to day - the real trick is the ‘how’, how you fuse it, how you interpret it, how you make it exciting and new… that is what really interests me.

Dior was synonymous with style, elegance and chic glamour during

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his time. What do you think made his designs so timeless and sought after?

Dior wanted to turn heads, he created bold beauty, leading the way for a return to romance and dared to let women dream again. Dior is a house that you can rely on to inspire you and let you dream, it empowers and creates the elegant or the escapist with its exquisite cut clothes and fashions.

Dior’s cut is crafted to transcend seasons, to be contemporary, effortlessly elegant and define and enhance every female asset.

I am very fortunate that Dior has been able to dress and work with some of the most inspiring and beautiful women in the world. My role is to ensure the clothes are as beautiful as the icons that wear them on and off the red carpet.

The new Autumn/Winter collection for 2010/2011 has been launched. Can you tell us a bit about the background and your inspiration for this collection?

I looked at the lyricism and verse of French Romanticism in the 18th century. I wanted to develop the seed that was sewn in the couture-of ladies that rode ‘en amazone’ and mix English riding tweeds with soft leathers, chiffon prints and blown away collars… It was feminine, romantic, and luxuriously Dior.

While Christian Dior was the pioneer in what was known as the ‘New Look’ during the late 1940’s and early 1950’s you have continued to lead the fashion stakes and have succeeded in revolutionising the fashion industry with your own designs. What is your secret to keeping the brand fresh and alive?

I think keeping it fun is the key to success.

Dior is a house built on great foundations - is also not afraid, it is determined to look forward. Dior is a house that thrives on the bold, the new, the revolutionary - my role is to ensure the house remains fearless and adventurous and always young at heart.

The House of Dior has dressed many famous celebrities over many years from Princess Grace of Monaco to Ava Gardener to Princess Diana right through to present day greats such as Nicole Kidman and Penelope Cruz. Do you have any favorites?

With 32 collections a year for both your own label and the Dior brand, how do you source your ideas for each collection?

There is such a rich treasure chest of so many ideas, so many adventures and muses to explore that there are often too many to choose from!

Though we work on a lot of collections it never feels like work, it feels like an adventure, a quest, and I think this excitement and energy is what keeps it imaginative and inspiring to create.

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Apart from this wonderful collection that oozes French style and romance, are there any other key trends to watch out for this season and next?

Luxury, elegance and individuality, which should be what defines you for every season.