stw2d.no.48 Stash by streetwear today magazine

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STW2D.NO.48

2 /2 014 A p r i l , M a y, J u n e

Josh “Stash” Franklin – Perpetual Motion

Dear readers, we had a crazy time to finish this magazine that is for sure and the only way to get it done was to find that perpetual motion machine which got us going. Stash is finally our coverstory and we had a small back and forth to find the right headline for this issue. We came to the idea that it needs this “movement” sentiment, “still moving” maybe? But what can describe a constant going propelled by creativity? Stash, maybe? In fact Stash is a spearhead in our culture. Since more than 30 years, being one of the firsts spreading graffiti culture not only via cans on the neighbors garage doors, Stash is in constant motion to express his creative energy in new and other forms, local and global. Still he keeps control of his signature style. You know it is somehow interesting to see a jacket on the street and due to the camo pattern you know to say: “Stash did that one!”. You see an advertising campaign and you say: “hey I am quite sure Stash did that one, too” Maybe you pass a sneakerstore somewhere and you can say again: “Oh cool, I need those too, Stash did these beauties” If a certain, a personal handwriting is given in everything you do, it just makes sense and keeps you moving into more and new ways to express yourself. As an Artist – the cool thing about it – some day your canvas on the wall matches your sneaker and jacket. Perpetual motion?

NO 48

T O D AY

april, may, june ISSN 1860-9996 | D ¤ 5,00 | USA $ 10,00 UK £ 6,00 | SKR 70 | NKR 85 E, F, I ¤ 9,00 | A, B, L, NL ¤ 6,00 | CHF 10 CNY 100 | HKD 80 | JPY 1400

Cover and Coverstory: Josh “Stash” Franklin – Perpetual motion shots by David Gensler and Van Styles with Leica T-System @leicacraft further contributors: Ted King, Adam Shatz, Amanda Fleming, Roland Wolff, Morgan Winter

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Since Stash helped to evolve our culture it is an honor for us to have him on the Cover. Inside you will find his latest works and related stories he has to tell. Josh Franklin aka Stash had an interesting talk with another spearhead of the culture, David Gensler, and the shots have been taken by Van Styles who also gained fame in our culture due to his strong images of beauty. There is more arty stuff inside as we have interviews with other artists like Disturbanity or Push. Our friend David Jefferies talked to Jay Read of the cool Jilted Brand popping up strong lately. We also had an interesting chat with Sam Handy, designer of the ZX-Flux for the adidas Original Brand. Next to other topics like sunglasses, there are more sneakers given inside, especially running styles to give you some inspiration to go out and run in the sun. Enjoy the read and have some fun! Martin Magielka for streetwear today.

streetwear today the quarterly magazine for international streetstyles

Amanda Fleming, Roland Wolff, Morgan Winter, many more...

IMPRINT ISSN 1860-9996

Marketing, Advertising and Publishing: Heavy Traffic UG Alte Hattingerstrasse 11 | D-44789 Bochum | Germany Martin Magielka | mm@stw2d.com

PERPETUAL MOTION JOSH FRANKLIN TALKS TO DAVID GENSLER

“I think the idea is to keep moving. If everyone continues to understand this is a movement then it will be more about what’s next and will continue to be inspired by evolving work and trends.” – Stash

Editor in Chief: Martin Magielka (V.i.S.d.P.) | mm@stw2d.com Editor: Erik Hüsken | eh@stw2d.com Editor: Marcus Welt | mw@stw2d.com Editor UK | Jason Jules | jj@stw2d.com Editor USA | David Gensler | dg@stw2d.com Editor: Michael Leuffen | hml@stw2d.com Editor: Lorenzo Taurino | lt@stw2d.com Fashion Editor: Sara Magielka | sm@stw2d.com Fashion Assistance: Meike Ratsch | mr@stw2d.com Design: STUDIO F | Anja Steinig, Adrian Staude, Xaver Hirsch, Miriam Busch www.studiof.de | as@studiof.de Further contributors in this issue: Stefanie Levers, Superblast, Haniball Saliba, Clyde Semmoh, Tobias Wirth, Tom Gabrea, Van Styles, Ted King, Adam Shatz, Josh Franklin,

Subscription Service, Retail and Distribution inquiries: Meike Ratsch | mr@stw2d.com www.streetwear-today.com National distributor (Germany): Stella Distribution GmbH Frankenstrasse 7 | 20097 Hamburg www.stella-distribution.de International distributors: Austria: Morawa Pressevertrieb | www.morawa.com Belgium: AMP | www.ampnet.be Brazil: H.B. Revistas | www.hbrevistas.com.br Great Britain (UK): Emblem Group Japan: Kaigai Inc. | www.kaigai-inc.co.jp Netherlands: Betapress B.V. | www.betapress.nl

Norway: Listo AB | www.listo.se Spain: Comercial Atheneum | www.atheneum.com Sweden: Svenska Interpress | www.interpress.se Switzerland: Valora AG | www.valora.com Singapore: Basheer Graphic Books | www.basheergraphic.com Thailand: Peng Ha Shieng Co. Ltd. Printed by: wir machen druck We cannot be liable for unrequested material we receive. Unrequested material can be used any time. Reprinting of streetwear today – complete or in extracts – only by written agreement. Published features from freelancers must not share the opinion of the editorial staff. Place of jurisdiction is Bochum.

ÂŠ 2014 adidas AG. adidas, the Trefoil logo and the 3-Stripes mark are registered trademarks of the adidas Group.

ÂŠ 2013 adidas AG. adidas, the Trefoil logo and the 3-Stripes mark are registered trademarks of the adidas Group.

#zxflux

adidas.com/originals

LIVING OFF THE WALL: A VANS DOCUMENTARY SERIES UPSTARTS

DOCUMENTARIAN:

ALL THE STORIES: VANS.COM/LIVINGOFFTHEWALL

CONTENT

STW2D.NO.48

2 /2 014 A p r i l , M a y, J u n e

Josh “Stash” Franklin – Perpetual Motion

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O’Neill & Cranio, Bugaboo & Warhol Foundation, Denham & Jack Purcell, ETQ , G-Shock & MHI, Freitag, New Era – 1939 Collection, Creation, Bodega, Vans Nassim, Ridgebake

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Lapaporter, Woodfellas, Filippa K, Oakley Heritage, Dragon, Frydays, AleRo

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RUNNING SPECIAL – adidas Originals ZX-Flux designer Sam Handy, Asics, Puma, Nike Free, New Balance Blue Tap, Saucony

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RUNNING SPECIAL by Phillip Zwanzig

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Eastside & Edwin, Harley Davidson & Dickies

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Salut, je suis Anne Claire by Tobias Wirth

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Josh „Stash“ Franklin talks to David Gensler

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Summer Sadness by Fabian Blaschke & Haniball Saliba

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Jilted Royalty – Jay Read talks to David Jefferies

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Push & Element, Disturbanity – Rare Shots on Planet X

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Pillow Talk, Damon Alban

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Reviews

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...................SHOP

Strawberry

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Monocrome Furs by KEN-TONIO YAMAMOTO & Tom Gabrea

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P. 31 – adidas Originals ZX-Flux designer Sam Handy

P. 52 – Salut, je suis Anne Claire

P. 62 – Stash

P. 82 – Jay Read, Jilted Royalty

P. 106 – Monocrome Furs

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O’Neill & Cranio meet Jordy Smith

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In street art circles the South American “Cranio“, whose name translates as ‘skull’, is now a globally recognized name. He grew up in Sao Paulo, Brazil and at the age of 16 he began to cover his home streets with a unique brand of graffiti art. Full on creativity mixed up with a good sense of humor within his trademark blue character Cranio’s work encourages the viewer to question the world and consider bigger themes such as consumerism, identity and the environment. This summer Cranio has worked with O’Neill to produce this Artist Collaboration injection line, which consists of the EpicFreak boardshorts, Brazil tees and some Flipflop’s each adorned with his signature Style. And well Surf Pro Jordy Smith is happy to have his board designed in style.

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Bugaboo & The Andy Warhol Foundation It was 1966 when Warhol came up with his legendary Banana Print. So ready for summer strolling Bugaboo continues its collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation by launching a banana-inspired pram collection. The famous design will be available with the Bugaboo Cameleon3, but you can also pimp out all other Bugaboo models with a banana footmuff and seat liner. Those are made from water-repellent, eco-friendly and sustainable fibre extracted from wild bamboo. It regulates temperature and humidity and provides more comfort for the kid during chilly times. The Andy Warhol & Bugaboo Banana Collection will be in stores from May on.

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SINCE 1922

WWW.DICKIESSTREETWEAR.COM

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DENHAM X JACK PURCELL a hidden smile They call it a COLLUSION – Denham and Jack Purell's Creatives teamed up for an interpretation of one of the most iconic sneaks to wear during these beautiful summer days and nights. Sure you can choose what styles your outfit best, the black or the white one, but you can't be wrong anyway. The chassis has a reputation coming all the timeline along from the 1930s by simply being contemporary in design all the time. Unpretentious modernism already met top designers like Clot, Comme des Garcons, Dr. Romanelli or Masafumi Watanabe before. So it was about time to approach Jason Denham, known to have the right knack for bringing heritage into modernism. As usual when we talk about the Denham Brand it is about the attention to details which makes also the JP footwear unique. When I met the people at Denham they called those beauties “scissor-face“ due to their reconstructed Denham scissor logo placed on the heel. The hidden smile refers to the iconic “smile“ on the toebox of the Converse Jack Purcell's letting them stand out the crowd. So grab those and walk in style with a smile.

ETQ step by step

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Okay, it is about the young Brand ETQ. They started their mission in 2010 with the belief that one should never have to pay only for a label, rather for the quality of the product that the label represents. The new ETQ collection features improved designs for the mid, high and low top silhouettes, all outfitted in premium materials fully lined in calfskin leather. So step by step, their range grew into a collection of exceptional footwear in a slick but timeless design. All of ETQ’s products are hand made by experienced craftsmen at a small, family-owned factory in Portugal. The best traditions of shoemaking refined into leather footwear of remarkable quality. No wonder that some of the best retailers already picked em up. Sure they can be found on the ETQ's brand new website but also at fine retailers like Soto (Berlin), SSENSE (Montréal), Selfridges & Co (London), Hypebeast Store (Hong Kong) and Baskèts (Amsterdam).

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DOMINICK WALKER PHO TO BY EL EM EN T A DVOCATE BR IAN G ABERMAN / SHOT I N PIT T SB UR G H, PA @ELEMENTBRAND

@ELEMENTEUROPE

ELEMENTBRAND.COM

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G-Shock

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the Lunar Bonsai Camo by MHI

fter we saw the launch of diverse cool camouflage watches by G-Shock this Lunar Bonsai one is definitely a highlight for all camo freaks. G-Shock already released the GD-X6900 and the GD120CM models in camo prints but this next strike is the outstanding product of a collaboration with UK camouflage master, Hardy Blechman of the Maharishi Brand. The result is a G-SHOCK GD-X6900MH getting the MHI twist to it. Maharishi treated the watch with its Lunar Bonsai Camo pattern which is the featured design in their latest Spring/Summer 2014 collection comprised of tees, hoodies, sweats, and outerwear. The pattern uses photographic images of the surface of the moon combined with its signature Bonsai Forest print. Well done.

Freitag â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Victor & Jamie

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It was the original idea in 1993, the two graphic design students, Markus and Daniel Freitag, took their cue from urban bike couriers. Functional, water-repellent and strong â&#x20AC;&#x201C; those have been the most important criteria for their ideal bag. More than 20 years later Freitag grew to one of the most important bag manufacturers known in world wide streets. Still using recycled truck tarpaulins, used bicycle tires and seat belts every bag is handmade and unique. For end of April we see the lounge of two new messenger bag styles a though bag pack F151 Victor and a functional hip bag F153 Jamie to ride in style while keeping the transportation goodies dry and in shape. For sure you will have your personal coloray as every bag is one of a kind.

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1934 CAPS BY NEW ERA

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rands can be proud if they have a strong past, a heritage. Cap Company New Era started to produce caps and hats in 1920 and can crawl in their almost a hundred years old archive to come up with their best vintage styles. Actually the New Era Brand was the first to bring a high quality, handcrafted uniform cap to baseball and later on to more american sports. Today we see Caps for many reasons or occasions. Every Brand has a diversity on cool hats and caps. Easy made or classified through detailing and quality matters they give clear statements and identifiers for the wearer, get worn as a symbol of self-expression or fashion statement. Sure New Era is proud of their history and stories they have to tell. Reason enough to announce the global launch of their newest Heritage Cap Series the “New Era 1934 Collection”, which are hand-picked premium headwear silhouettes, chosen for their innovation, importance and moments in time. The reason to retrospect is the first professional baseball cap that got created for the “Cleveland Indians“ home game back in 1934. For sure it also shows New Era’s intense commitment to quality products, as well as the evolution of the game and their authentic history with Major League Baseball emphasized with cap designs exclusively for other US 1934 World Series finalists including the Detroit Tigers, New York Yankees, New York Giants and the 1934 World Series winners, the St. Louis Cardinals.

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Well these beauties are limited and not that easy to get but will be available at European retailer including Starcow, Firmament or Size? and their own New Era Retail spaces in London, Birmingham, Berlin, Paris and Frankfurt.

That is way this 1934 collection consists of six nicely made caps showcasing the 19TWENTY cap that has become a cherished silhouette within New Era’s headwear archive. Replicating those original styles from 1934, the caps feature original stitching both within the logos and the embroideries, a hard-wearing sweatband and the use of high-quality Melton Wool, bringing the right blend of traditional elements to have a truly distinctive and authentic collection.

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Bodega

trading cards

Creation

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Situated on a quiet residential block in Boston, the unassuming BDGA storefront looks just like a normal bodega. But well walk to the back, check the Snapple machine door to reveal a sleek dark-wooded retail space. Chock full of some of the most wanted footwear and streetwear they will present you also a wide range of their own clothing. Tailored updates of sportswear classics are the focus of Bodegaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spring Summer collection. The line reconfigures wardrobe staples with subtle details contrasted by bold color blocked pieces. We like the trading card style lookbook and those shots by Guarionex Rodriguez, Jr..

inspiration is never far away Creation is the new clothing label from two veterans of the UK Streetwear scene. We talk about Paul Sid known as the designer and founder of the brand Retreat and Emmet Keane who is the co-founder of UK label Answer with Will Bankhead. Creation started off as a light hearted dialogue in late 2013 grew in momentum, when which realizing that by pooling their vision and love of strong graphics, could amount to a t-shirt label that is unparalleled with what is being offered in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s market. Drawing inspiration from a mutual musical love of reggae, punk, hip hop and soul, art ranging from cut up northern European renaissance, cut up collage designs to science fiction comics... inspiration is never far away.

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VAN S

like this. “The 18-year-old Dutchman Nassim Guammaz has been rocking the most influential cities in the world, winning one contest by the other. In addition to that, this guy is quite a cool cat.” Now he is one year something older

Nassim’s edition and it is good to see his boarding skills got even better. To enforce this his footwear sponsor Vans teamed up with skate cult store BenG in Amsterdam to come up with a Nassim dedicated style of shoes. This Vans Old Skool ‘92 Pro is an updated version with UltraCush HD Sockliners and Duracap Toe Bumper olliing along in a bordeaux-red/cream colorway, the fav color of Nassim since ever.

RIDGEBAKE keep moving

This Brand Ridgebake obviously develops luggage products. They say all started with the goal of keeping the human spirit of adventure alive in the 21st century. That is why these bags combine a vintage look with the requirements of today life. Means the main compartments have a well padded sleeve to protect your laptop and extras pockets for smaller objects you love to carry around. Their inspiration is derived from the crossroads of culture, travel, fashion and function and the classic design has a strong focus on premium utility with a vintage charm. „We look backward but move forward. Our goal is to be all you need to keep moving. C A R R Y . A L L . L E T ’ S G O . “

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We had an extended interview with Nassim in our issue stw2d. no. 42 starting

LapĂ porter

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Wrap your mobile devices in luxury style

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In times where humankind seems to drown in some sort of social media primeval soup and most conversations happen to be virtual, some people still seek distinction and individuality. Some 51 million iPhones and 26 million iPads in the first quarter of 2014 alone tell a ceratin story and the sale of corresponding cases is most likely in the same digits. Problem is, most of them are ugly as sin. When Ilka Brand, the mastermind behind Lapàporter, was on the lookout for a nice computer sleeve eight years ago, she couldn´t find anything she liked and was forced to made a rotten compromise. But you know the taste of such compromises and eventually Ilka designed one herself. Her study of accessory design in Milano at the Nuova Accademia Di Belle Arti during her education as a fashion designer at Hochschule für Technik und Wirtschaft in Berlin came in handy. An idea was born and in 2008 she launched her label Lapàporter. Ilka´s vision is to design bags and cases for laptops and phones that have the timeless and elegant feeling of a beautiful leather handbag. What makes it so outstanding is the fact that all her products are handmade. Her products are available in lamb´s leather, velour, salmon leather and python leather. Salmon leather is waste from the food industry whereas python underlies CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) and Ilka is about to drop it from her range. Furthermore she puts emphasis on sustainability and most of her suppliers are from Germany. A nice contrast to the fast-moving development of new electronic gadgets (made in Asia under shady circumstances) and the release of an even more sophisticated smartphone every other day. Another advantage lies in the reaction span. Ilka is able to provide new sleeves within days after a new phone release. Since everything is commissioned work she doesn´t have a huge stock and thus the risk to end up with products that are not needed anymore is almost precluded. In Fall 2013 Ilka opened her atelier & shop in Berlin-Wedding. Although the whole look and feel is very feminin, also a lot of men are fans of Ilka´s artisanal skills, most of them requests for wallets. And this is where the fun begins, you can have made your custom piece by Ilka, within her range of tolerance of course, she´s the artist in the end. Although cases for phones and tablets are nowadays offered by many producers, Lapàporter still works in the realms of a market niche. Her products are positive connoted luxury that come at a price. But you get a distinctive item, made with passion by hand. The next step for Ilka is to design and piece together handbags. She already bought the appropriate sewing machine..

LAPÀPORTER – Artisanal Leather Goods Atelier / Shop Brunnenstr. 65 13355 Berlin

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WOOD FELLAS

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NATURE’S POINT OF VIEW

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Well, we all know that this planet has severe environmental problems that cannot be blamed on governments and companies alone. All of us carry a part of the responsibility and for the last couple of years we were indeed able to observe a growing awareness of that problem in the streetwear- and urban lifestyle-industry. The list of companies that add impact mitigation to their agenda grows longer and longer. Pretty high on that list should be a young company from Munich, Germany, their fellas only process one of the most eco-friendly materials we know: wood! According to their preferred material, they called their company “Wood Fellas” and set their target to create a variety of wooden goods combing urban lifestyle with skilled craftsmanship. Coming along in all kinds of sophisticated designs their coveted bracelets, necklaces and rosaries are topped off by a new line of wristwatches and customized iPhone cases. But well we take a closer look on their fabulous eyeshades. Since a while the Wood Fellas have extended their offering by adding this upscale line of premium lifestyle shades created in a variety of woods, shapes and colors. Those glasses come in clear or dark, as well as mirror glasses providing an on-point look for any individual and occasion. Nine different silhouettes boost authentic style, high-end execution and a very smooth essence in diverse color combinations. A special focus is laid on the hinges, providing maximum flexibility made for extra long durability and unique comfort. To give you a future hint, next up is a collaboration with upcoming Parisian fashion and party collective Montaigne Street, known for their outstanding styling and legendary parties in Paris with crews like Been Trill, HBA or KTZ. Those limited edition shades are scheduled for July 2014 and will be available at selected retailers only. Okay, through these unique and timeless designs the label quickly acquired vogue throughout Europe as well as the USA by delivering unique accessory essentials with an edge. So we hope, that examples like Wood Fellas encourage other companies to think about what they can do to help mother earth survive. “We work with wood instead of glitter, focus on details rather than hype, we swear by authenticity – and we still have a few surprises up our sleeve. Good things ahead, so bear with us; we’re the WOOD FELLAS .”

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BRAND

Filippa K Sunwear

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Coming all the way from Scandinavia, more precise from Stockholm in Sweden, the Brand Filippa K steadily works on fashionable clothing lines with some clean and timeless looks. All started around 1993 and for now we can sum up that they gained their range to offer complete style solutions for both women and men. This spring Filippa K follows up on the success of 2013 and launches yet another collection of unique handmade sunglasses. Their sunwear styles expanded to three styles and each pair is handmade in Italy in the finest silk acetate offering a 100 % UV protection. Mainly round and bold it is a modern take on a retro design matching their clothing. The Brand launches these in selected Filippa K brand stores and premium department stores in April of 2014.

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Oakley future heritage

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Out of my personal adventures it was that time when BMX riders had the writing on their back “factory pilot“, on top of this it said “Oakley“. But well first it was about the grips Motocross riders had on their handlebars as the actual story of Oakley started as a small Grip Company. Only minutes later the grips got picked up in the BMX community, so we all needed F1’s or B-1B’s to raise the bar. As this feature is about Oakley shades I can say that only another while later all riders could also be sure to have no tears or dust in their eyes while leading a group of pedaling maniacs. Remembering this time by bringing back vintage rarities like Eyeshades, Razor Blades and Frogskins, Oakley celebrates the 30th anniversary of their groundbreaking eyewear. So it was in 1984 when Oakley came up with their first strike “the eyeshades“ - for all of us the first real performance eyewear we have been proud of. Next up was the “Razor Blades“ not the ones with wheels, but those well wrought out shades passing by in a reduced to the max style giving maximum eye protection. Very close to the eyes nothing disturbed the view while tuning contrast and sharpness. To chill and walk around it was a “Frogskin“ which became a must have. Actually the third strike but the first one with a classic two glasses optic. The Grips became a footnote and the glasses conquered the worlds of sports and lifestyles. What else can we say? Due to a very high quality approach more medals and championships have been won when wearing Oakley eyewear than with any other single sport product on Earth. Word.

“To let athletes pay tribute to sport heritage while enjoying stateof-the-art technology, the Oakley Heritage collection also includes renditions of RadarLock™, Radar®, Flak Jacket® XLJ, and Racing Jacket®. Our artists accented the top edge of each frame with a printed stripe graphic that carries the colors of our original eyewear creations from 30 years ago. A “30” graphic is laser etched at the corner of the lens in each edition, and as with all designs in the Heritage Collection, the custom Microclear bag is decked with art that celebrates the anniversary.“

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BRAND

DRAGON ALLIANCE – It all started in a small garage in Capo Beach. Where is this? Sure in sunny California. It was in 1993 when founder Will Howard aimed to build his company that encompassed his passions for surfing, snowboarding or riding dirt bikes. Enthusiasm and knowledge of the market bore Dragon’s first and still primary product, sunglasses. Since then the Brand did a great job to spread their beloved products first to local surf and skateshops and now they get distributed to international markets. But well next to reaching the right spot, Dragon Alliance sunglasses are a great combination of style and function for active individuals whether you’re surfing, boarding, biking or skiing. Dragon sunglasses will provide you with 100% UVA and UVB protection you need while enjoying the outdoors.

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TRUE TO ITS ROOTS

They have a whole bunch of sunglasses and goggles but we take a closer look to their newest styles. So it is about their new H2O Floatable Collection and the fully new design called Marquis. Okay, the Dragon H20 Floatable Collection pairs 3 of Dragon’s most wanted styles. So the line consists of known styles like “The Jam“, “Vantage“ and “the Double Dos“ coming along with a lightweight frame with a special formula injected frame, all designed to stay afloat in the ocean, pool or lake. “The Floatable sunglasses are super functional for me and my friends. For people who spend essentially half their lives around the ocean surfing, fishing, boating, stand up paddling or anything else that’s active, knowing you won’t lose your favorite pair of shades if you drop them in the water is key.” says world-renowned big wave surfer and Dragon Pro Shane Dorian. With top-tier product and athletes in mind, the Dragon “Marquis“ sunglasses have an air of understate of sophistication that is suitable for any occasion. This new street style sunglass design represents dynamic, risk-taking individuals who are willing to test their personal limits when it comes to fashion. Big round polycarbonate lenses have a Grilamid frame material accentuated with the dragon logo on 5 barrel stainless steel hinges. Overall you can choose off a multitude of colors and sizes all in good shape and quality so this sunglass label has successfully created one of the most interesting sunglass lines on today’s market.

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Al e Ro made in Italy

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Al e Ro means Al and Ro and the Brand says Al represents creativity, talent, design and technology research, Ro represents trend, fashion, attention to details and the love for beauty. Al e Ro design sunglasses are unique cause they use colored gum with interchangeable lenses and frames in too many colors to name or show here. It is a 100% Made in Italy product and ecofriendly brand which is proud to have a patent on their innovative and quality product. All in all it is a cool dialogue between hyper technological materials and a stylistic approach ensuring a total protection against UV rays.

Frydays

match your outfit

„We are tired of the crowded walls of frames, unexplained high prices and locked up showcases from which sunglasses are currently sold. We believe purchasing sunglasses should be fun and easy.“ Fryday’s streetwear today 2 | 2014

he era we live in is about matching colors within your outfit. The right styling is everything and every day beers new challenges to find the right outfit, to look fresh. Sunglasses that match your sneaker? Fryday offers 4 models but 13 colors to choose from where arms and front colors can differ. So if you want to get your personal eyewear you can customize it with 169 color combinations. Changeable arms make it easy but also the front can be bought separately so you can upgrade your style in many directions. Another good thing about it, every pair sold they provide funding to the global non profit organisation ORBIS. Their Flying Eye Hospital is the world’s only eye hospital onboard a converted cargo plane teaching and training eye care teams so they can better take care of their own communities.

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SNEAKER INVA V SION VA INVASION

We know that sneaker conquer more and more feet, whether male or female styles, running, oldschool, baskets, hybrids or classic casuals, it is simply a heat wave what is happening in the footwear market globally. Looking closer to the running styles we need to say that there is a big difference between a fast and slick look and the functionality and quality of a performance product. Lifestyle running and performance running need a clear differentiation even they have a big intersection in streetwear today. For sure many crazy good collaborations fuel the â&#x20AC;&#x153;need to haveâ&#x20AC;? emotions and get a whole new generation of sneaker stores going, keep them busy with more and more releases. We would say that if a sneaker store needs to look for new facilities, they should have in mind that it should be possible to camp outside due to more and more infected people cueing overnight. Still, you need to know the insights to see those highlights on the streets. But what became obvious is that many more people have an open eye and stare at others feet than ever before. A symbol of taste, an icon in lifestyle. Pulling up the pants to get a better view became popular and influenced designers for new cuts in their clothing. Color Palettes of clothing to hats are adjusted on footwear coloring. New Socks on the Blog, mentioned quite daily gear up those outfits. Eyewear get the same modern color combinations than the sneaks and more indicators prove the feeling that the sneaker we choose in the morning decides what to wear on top of them. Are shoes the most important thing in our wardrobes? Within this issue we showcase a lot of different footwear, mainly sneakers of the lifestyle segment but take a closer look on the performance compatibility. On the following pages we show our selection of what is hot in the streets right now.

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ADIDAS ZX 8000 TO ZX-FLUX

Sam Handy talks to Erik Hüsken

Pulling inspiration from the past, more precise the ZX8000, but maintaining a minimal aesthetic what is common and forward thinking, the adidas Originals ZX-Flux showcases a wide range of color variations within a streamlined design. Holding the road really well, bright colors, overall prints and neutral tones appeal to a wide range of wearers, showcasing both the archive tech and modern styling. Curious about to meet the designer, we had a date in Berlin with Sam Handy, this, to get an inside view on his newly designed ZX-Flux footwear, the latest child in the adi ZX-family.

So, I just start with what I have learned: The shoe is based on the original ZX 8000 from 1989 – what else was the idea behind it? We’ve been looking for ways to create new looks and evolve our franchises, design a true contemporary product for adidas Originals. We have this amazing archive that people know and love and this is an area where we are very comfortable with. We have been making restreetwear today 2 | 2014

ally amazing shoes you can still see today - with the Stan Smith launch, the EQT launch - we’ve got a lot of bangers in the archive. But this is a way to move us and take us also into new places. And so I was kind of investigating this and the reason for the ZX8000 is that it’s just a model that I personally really like since my childhood. It was one of my first contact points with the adidas Brand. Aesthetically, I think it’s a point in time where the look felt so new and you look at it now, just the design of the m idsole, the outsole and the torsion bar and the whole system. It is the first shoe that mimics the natural motion of the foot. It was kind of a really nice fusion of the science and the aesthetics that created something really new and something really pretty. But making something really modern, really contemporary from this - it was just about peeling back the layers. So I started quite literally on the CAD in the computer. I started deleting pieces and refining the shape, take off the tongue, take of the underlayer of the tongue, take off the mud guard, take of the eyestay and try to just strip it back to the DNA of the shoe that always spoke to me. Then you end up with

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the negative space of the stripes, the curve underneath and the iconic heel stabilizer, which was an incredible design detail and innovation in 1989. So you take that TP reinforcement out the heel and put in on the outside - as a designer that really speaks to me. I think its a really nice approach to reveal the function of the shoe and put “the bones on the outside”. It still feels very modern to do that. We ended up with this first ZX-FLUX prototype in our lab which is our mini factory at our headquarter. The shoes kind of spoke to people and everyone felt that this was a new look and something that we have not been able to do before. People saw a big opportunity for this silhouette and wanted to try to get them to the market as soon as possible – and we did. Mentioning this, when did you start working on the ZX-Flux Concept? I repeat my PR-line: It is a story that has been 25 years in the making but in practicality we worked on it about 12 month from concept to shelve. And there are shoes that you can buy since march 2014.

Sam Handy, designer ZX-Flux discusses with Jacques Chassaing, designer ZX 8000

The whole concept of the shoe was supposed to be for the so called “lifestyle” section, correct? Yes, absolutely, a hundred percent from the beginning. Removing all of the reinforcement, removing as many layers as possible doesn’t bring you a great shoe to go running, it brings you a great lifestyle shoe. And we wanted to make sure that it looks as fast as possible on the foot, as fast as possible when it is not moving, but it is not designed to run in it. Its complete “lifestyle” from the inception. We are divided in different divisions at adidas, and our performance guys make such incredible shoes for running, we don’t need to make any more of those. We didn’t need to find a way to evolve the original franchises. Are you also responsible for the different designs of the shoe? Yes, my team and me. There is one thing I found really interesting but weird, this one model looks like an old television sign to me, like before television was 24 hours - in Germany we called it “Testbild”? Is there an overall concept for these kind of allover prints? With the graphic design guys in my team we have been talking about contemporary directions in graphic design and this whole post-modern, post digital idea. The idea of what happens and how the graphics evolve when everything can be digitally created. It results in this new language which sounds a bit of artistic in conception, but that’s how we ended up with that. There was a reason behind it and I think it’s a great print – it is very fun. The prints are asymmetric as well which is something that we’ve done for the first time. When you pick up both shoes – left shoe, right shoe – you see the different prints. We are really trying to not just design a shoe on a screen. We were designing a shoe that “lives” as a pair. So we were trying to be asymmetrical whenever it was possible. And that’s what we mainly talk about: The idea of the Flux, the idea of the ZX Family – evolving and moving on, living outside the archived shoes to become something else.

adidas ZX8000 original product from the archive, 1989

It seems to me like you come up with a new pop-cultural icon. It comes out now, but in ten years maybe people will still pick it up like they still pick up the old ZX8000 ones now – in a sense that it stays the way it is for another period of time. streetwear today 2 | 2014

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But this first ZX-FLUX, there is not mutch you can change about it instead of the color and prints, what will the future of the FLUX look like. What is next?

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We very much hope so. Being a designer at adidas Originals is a very interesting challenge just because there are so many amazing things in the archive that other people have made. Really great designers created all of that stuff and their products really stood the test of time. Now you can only try and measure yourself against that – it’s a big challenge. We will only know in ten years time.

It is a system, it is an idea. It is a way to honor our archived product and tread it with new things. There is a ZX Flux 2 and it comes already in Fall/Winter, we have a FLUX Neoprene sock and than we start hybridize the FLUX with other outsoles as well, so this one sits on a high performance outsole, but is spired by our archive too. We will start really treating our product in different ways than we have ever done before. It will be more challenging how we create things. In our archive, there are amazing products in there, half of them people do not have ever seen. To take those as a starting point and start modernize them does not necessarily mean to take something off, but it might mean you can put something on. It is about a design approach where we excellerate our product into the future but keep the DNA of our Brand, keep these ankerpoints where people know what it is, where it comes from. How far are you involved in the PR and marketing of the ZX-Flux? I am “just” the designer. But the design team and the marketing team work very closely together. We at adidas build things with a plan and we design with our consumers in mind. I want to put together design products that appeal to people who love adidas, to people who love our brand. But also they address to people who don’t know about our brand yet, those we want to get to know our brand. So it’s definitely designed with an adi consumer in mind and at the same time we try to innovate and give them something they haven’t seen before. I feel that we did that with the ZX-Flux. It is very new for adidas originals but I think it’s gonna be also new to the kid on the street that wants to see some new looks. Right! Thank you.

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ASICS CMYK

As the name for this colorful pack suggests, this Asics CMYK Pack features a nice foursome of classic Asics footwear styles. They take inspiration by the four different hues that make up the color code CMYK — cyan, magenta, yellow and key. Within this color splash you can find two of the legendary Gel-Lyte III silhouettes, with their famous split tongue, next to a Gel Saga and GT-II, where all four are done up in a traditional mesh / suede optic finished in tonal colorways. Additional common features include that contrast white midsole and a polka dot patterned lining on the inside of the sneaks. Choose your color for summer.

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the foursome

the “Tropicalia” Pack

Floral prints are hip and get involved also in todays colorful sneaker designs. Even mentioned decent the “Tropicalia” Pack is coming along from the Puma Brand and features the R698 Trinomic sneaker done in a smooth black or cream nubuck upper accentuated with a floral print inside lining and heavily X-perforated breathable upper. The floral lining takes inspiration of Brazil and its national flower called Cattleya labiata also know as Orchid and is part of the Puma MMQ (Puma macht’s mit Qualität) program.

NIKE FREE

The Nike Free 3.0 Flyknit offers the most f lexibility and a four-millimeter heel-to-forefoot offset.

the principles of natural motion

“After 10 years of continual innovation, we’ve truly revolutionized the way these shoes work,” said Rob Dolan, Senior Footwear Design Director, Nike Running. “By utilizing new technologies and the principles of natural motion, we’re really able to allow the foot to move for the runner in a way we’ve never been able to do before.”

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The Nike Free 4.0 Flyknit provides f lexibility with more cushioning at a six-millimeter offset.

The first Nike Free footwear has been introduced in 2004 with a main design philosophy based around the concept of natural motion. “It’s all about the feet – it’s not about the shoes.” was the initial slogan from Nike co-founder Bill Bowerman. Still having a great focus on studying the foot in motion, 10 years later, advancements in technology and product engineering continue to push the boundaries of footwear design in all of the new Nike Free initiatives. In 2014 three of the most significant developments are an outsole with a hexagonal flex-groove pattern delivering multi-directional flexibility. The runners foot can move more freely in all directions. Next up is the anatomical shape bringing the focus on mimicking the shape of the foot allowing them but the whole body to move more naturally. The very light Flyknit technology enables the Nike designers to micro-engineer areas of stretch, support or breathability, and to seamlessly integrate Nike Flywire support where needed. While running we move forward linearly but our feet never move in a perfectly straight line, so this multi-directional flexibility given in those Free runners was the key to deliver natural motion in a shoe.

The Nike Free 5.0 with an eight-millimeter offset is a happy medium between natural flexibility and a traditional running shoe.

New Balance MR1400, MRC1600 and M890 with a “Blue Tab”

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hen it comes to running shoes New Balance is in the game for sure. Past year there was this release of the first Blue Tab Line, maybe you remember. The Pack had a burgundy with blue tonality and was made specifically for lifestyle consumers. Yep another example where performance coincides more with the streetwear wardrobe than the running outfit. Still they work on both sides. But running became popular anyway and with nice looking shoes an extra hype. MR1400, MRC1600 and M890 are the nicknames of the three different styles to get. Burgundy is out of stock, so it was time for an all black edition in Spring/Summer 2014. Three different but beautiful black uppers meet a clean white REVlite sole signed with the trio’s band name “The Blue Tab”. Anyway they only have that decent way to be recognized in the street as the red “NBx” tab found on performance shoes has been replaced with a blue one. Not sure if they are already sold out as they are quite limited and only available at the best sneakerboutiques, but due to this fact we are already curious to see what happens with the three New Balance runner in upcoming Fall as we know it is an ongoing project.

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with a Blue Tab

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SAUCONY passion for running

“Kinavara4”

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“Ride6-GTX”

“Guide7”

“Xodus”

“Triumph11”

“Kinavara5”

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“Ride6”

Yes, sure we know the Brand for a while, but first i was wondering what country they might come from these Saucony’s. What is the story? I found Saucony Creek, at Kutztown, Pennsylvania, USA. That is the place where it all started and what made me really wonder, the company’s first factory was founded in 1898. Crazy i thought, especially cause their focus is on running since day one. Sure somehow the heritage side of the Brand is interesting for a streetwear connoisseur but after reading more about Saucony, their passion for running ran into me. “At Saucony, we exist for runners. Runners inspire us, bring us new ideas, force us to be better. They drive our design and engineering. They keep us competitive. They keep us hungry. They keep us honest. Whether it’s in a conference room or out on a lunchtime run, we’re constantly talking about and arguing about our sport, runners and the products that fuel them. We love our products and we run in everything we make. This focus and passion fuels us as we strive to create the best running shoes and clothing on the planet. We leave work each day knowing we’ve done everything to make runners’ lives just a little bit better.” They have a wide range of diverse footwear to run and they promise that they have styles for the different terrains and approaches. So we thought it might be best to show some of these quite random and jump through Saucony linguista. Let us start with “Xodus” made for the toughest of terrain. These feature a ComfortLite sockliner, a Vibram XS-Trek compound coupled outsole and a functional midfoot support strap cooperating with the whole lacing system. Saucony calls it ProXLock or the “locked in fit and feel” which will help the runners on slippery or ruff surfaces. We run over to the “Ride6” and “Ride6-GTX” both feature the all new Power Grid cushioning technology this time from heel to toe. 281 gram light, they run along in size 9 and for rainy days take the Ride GTX version as they have the famous Gore Tex Tag. We move on with “Guide7” - PowerGrid, SRC Crashpad, medial support system, 283 gram and yes the added flex grooves ensure the shoe moves with the runner with comfort and responsiveness. Oh, the “Triumph11” features a midsole made entirely of super-plush PowerGrid which makes it a supremely cushioned yet lightweight training shoe promising a smoother transition from heel-strike to toe-off. Actually this is just a small excursion into the world of Saucony and we only show a small selection of models and color variations but will keep you updated with their latest releases in the future.

“At Saucony, a good day is when we get to run. A great day is when we inspire someone else to run.”

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PHOTOGR APHY & PRODUCTION Phillip Zwanzig STYLING ETLAMVP MODELS Georg Gordon Byron Georg Bryan Brummell

C A P New Era Heritage Pack 1934 H E A D P H O N E S Urbanears G L A S S E S model’s own J A C K E T K1X T E E adidas P A N T S Edwin B A G Bagjack NYC stealth TEC line S H O E S adidas

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C A P St端ssy A L L G E A R Asics S H O E S Asics GT 2 G L A S S E S Funk Royal Hagen von Tronje pink

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B E A N I E Acronym H O O D Y Anything G L A S S E S Mykita S H O R T S K1X S O C K S Nike S H O E S Nike Free Flyknit Electric

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H A T Undefeated G L A S S E S POC AM T A N K K1X L O N G S L E E V E Supernatural S H O R T S Undefeated T I G H T S Asics S H O E S New Balance MROO RB2D

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B E A N I E Acronym H O O D I E Acronym G L A S S E S Mykita Calypso S H O R T S Nike Gyaksou S O C K S Nike S H O E S New Balance MRC 1600 L

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LEFT J A C K E T Iriedaily S H O R T S Wood Wood S H O E S Onitsuka Tiger Shaw Runner RIGHT C A P Wood Wood G L A S S E S Mykita Elliot S W E A T E R Seek No Further T E E Supernatural S H O R T S Wood Wood S O C K S Stance S H O E S adidas adistar boost 2

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LEFT H A T St端ssy G L A S S E S Mykita Hudson A L L G E A R adidas S O C K S CEP S H O E S adidas adistar Raven 3M RIGHT G L A S S E S Mykita Calypso J A C K E T Undefeated S H O R T S Undefeated T I G H T S Asics S O C K S WESC x Superblast S H O E S Merrell Bare Access 3

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LEFT G L A S S E S Mykita Calypso J A C K E T Saucony S H O R T S Saucony S O C K S Asics S H O E S Saucony Triumph 11 RIGHT C A P Stüssy G L A S S E S Funk Royal Theoderich clear H O O D I E Asics T E E Farah P A N T S model’s own S O C K S CEP S H O E S New Balance M980 GW D

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LEFT G L A S S E S modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own H O O D I E Iriedaily T E E W E S C x Super Blast PA NT S WE S C S H O E S adidas Energy Boost 2 RIGHT C A P Farah H O O D I E Farah T E E Wood Wood P A N T S Edwin S H O E S adidas Adizero Primeknit 2

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Eastside and Edwin

timeless classic

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But well now coming two an other important point again. A timeless classic. Celebrating Eastsiders Christophe’s long-term partnership with the Edwin Brand, he and Edwin’s creative director Rey Gautier got their heads together and created a timeless classic. A motorcycle jacket, based on one of Christophe’s original race leather jackets from his expansive motorcycle inventory, collected over the past years. Basing the block and detailing on the original garment; an unbranded 1960’s jacket he found in a London second-hand store back in 1992 gave inspiration. Christophe has put the jacket through its paces over years of riding, patching and re-patching. The Edwin replica jacket is made using tough cow hide, black dyed with a matte finish, featuring robust silver zippers. The co-branding consists of a subtle embossed patch, placed on the left arm and the jacket is lined with a lightweight plaid flannel.

Did you ever heard of the store Eastside in Toulouse, France? Hopefully! It is a very special store even I never had the chance to see it live and direct. It is about cycling, motorcycling more precise even you see the roots of BMX. Originally a pro BMX racer and motorcyclist, the owner Christophe Canitrot has been riding and collecting motorcycles since he was 18 years old. The store now features and attracts with cool helmets, a wide selection of durable street cloth and a cool range of accessories matching the speedy lifestyle. Still an avid motorcyclist, Christophe currently rides a 1975 BMW, a 1952 Terrot and the custom 1971 Triumph T120R hard-tail which was custom built for the Wheels & Waves festival in 2012. This Triumph is an homage to dirt track riding and legendary BMX race rider Mike Miranda, who was a Hutch team member mainly competing successfully in the mid eighties. And yes the wheels & waves festival with its fine blend of mechanics, vintage, surfing, art and music has become one of the most anticipated events in the custom motocycling scene in only just a few years. The third event takes place mid june in Biarritz France.

The Eastside x Edwin Jacket is available at Eastside and Edwin Stores in London and Paris and some selected retailers across Europe and somewhere online. streetwear today 2 | 2014

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Harley Davidson and Dickies custom cult

What I can say is, it is about passion. Those diverse custom cultures are special in itself, but if it comes to motorcycle customs my heart beats faster. I had fun to ride scooters, motocross, dirt bikes, race bikes, BMX bikes and all have been faster and slicker than the norm. Coming across many diverse custom shows not only me got inspired for live. All this is about style, diversity, ideas, creation and in the end hard work and a lot of passion for it results in a beast. Sure individualism and all this becomes more and more popular and customs have gained a huge fan base around the world. The riders are using those maneuverable beauties to easily meet more streets

and show their originalities. And if than you are on top a fan of the Dickies Brand this Harley custom is simply a feast for the eyes. Five years in the making finally the cover has been removed and a dream came true. The dream of Dickies representative Olaf Meinssen and Custom Bike builder and Speedmonsters Garage Owner Malte Kosack is finally ready to burn some streets. Listening to the words â&#x20AC;&#x17E;Dickies Hard Work custom Shovel headâ&#x20AC;&#x153; the bike features an original 1954 rigid frame, shovelhead engine, enhanced with other feature parts dating from the 70â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and got completed with a serious custom embossed Dickies Hard work saddle. Not only the streetwear today 2 | 2014

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bike itself is worth a celebration but this collaboration with Dickies also manifests 30 years since Speedmonsters opened its garage doors in Kiel Germany to build exclusive custom dream bikes. The Dickies/Harley custom bike wears the tag â&#x20AC;&#x17E;Made in Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x153; with pride and will be making its show debut at the Kustom Kulture Forever show on the 23 and 24 May 2014. This show is around the corner of our office, lets say it is a 20 minutes fast ride to a town called Herten in our beautiful Ruhrarea in Germany.

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SALUT, JE SUIS ANNE-CLAIRE.

FOR STREETWEAR TODAY MAGAZINE BY TOBIAS WIRTH

PHOTOGR APHER: TOBIAS WIRTH STYLING: CHRISTINA VAN ZON @ NUDE HAIR/MAKE UP: STEFAN KEHL @ CLOSE UP USING CHANEL MODEL: ANNE-CLAIRE @ M4 MODELS PHOTOGR APHY ASSISTANCE: SALVADOR VIGO MARMOL streetwear today 2 | 2014

CA PE: ACNE JACK ET: SAMSØE & SAMSØE SHI RT: DENHAM PA N TS: WRANGLER BELT: TIGER OF SWEDEN H AT: RIKE FEURSTEIN

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JACK ET: ADIDAS X OPENING CEREMON Y TOP: NHU DUONG 1440 DR ESS: HENRIK VIBSKOV CA P: SOULLAND

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JACK ET: G-STAR SHI RT: FRANKLIN MARSHALL SK I RT: GANNI WATCH: G-SHOCK BACK PACK: TIGER OF SWEDEN SU NGLASSES: MYKITA SHOES: CON VERSE SOCKS: FALKE

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V EST: UMASAN PU LLOV ER: MARC STONE SHI RT: WRANGLER SU NGLASSES: MYKITA

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V EST: BY MALENE BIRGER SHI RT: UMASAN PA N TS: LEVIS SHOES: PALLADIUM CA P: UCON

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SHI RT: DOCKERS T-SHI RT: I WISHUSU N OV ER A LL: 5PREVIEW H EA DPHON ES: PHILIPS FIDELIO WATCH: BABY-G BAG: MONKI

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JACK ET: MINIMUM CA P: CHEAP MONDAY EA R R I NGS: MARIA BLACK

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COAT: JOSEPH TOP: HUGO PA N TS: U NIQLO BACK PACK: ADIDAS

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COAT: SAMSØE & SAMSØE T-SHI RT: FRED PERRY TOP: MUU BUU SK I RT: WEEKDAY SHOES: NIKE WATCH: LUMINOX

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#MR _ STASH

PERPETUAL MOTION

JOSH FRANKLIN TALKS TO DAVID GENSLER shot by Van Styles

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Any great cultural movement can be traced back to a first generation of pioneers Streetwear and Street Art are no different and rarely do we see an original pioneer still going strong in the modern age. New York native, Josh “Stash” Franklin, has been going strong as an Artist, Designer, Creative Director, and Entrepreneur for over thirty years. Similar to most individuals in the avantgarde genre, Stash is not easily categorized and nearly impossible to define. If you focus solely on the art, Stash helped expand and evolve graffiti from vandalism to a global aesthetic vernacular, which has influenced and penetrated almost all other genres of art, fashion, media and beyond. If you focus on Streetwear, only a few brands can claim earlier roots than Subware, Project Dragon, GFS and retail pioneer, Nort. When you speak of collaborations, few artists can point to more significant interactions with global brands and other innovators in Art and Design. Before Streetwear was a defined global culture and industry, Stash has already lead collabs with Nike, Bape, Medicom, Levi’s, Burton, Gravis, Coleman, Maharishi and Pepsi, just to name a few. With Mr_Stash, let’s not focus on the past, let’s look ahead to the future and what’s next. As the standard of imagery exchange continues to be redefined and transformed so does the acceptance of new art forms. The ability for art to live in the digital age has allowed graffiti to transform and evolve on a global level.

WE ASKED STASH WHAT HE THOUGHT OF THE DIGITAL AGE AND HOW IT HAS IMPACTED STREETWEAR AND STREET ART.

Stash in Berlin, 1992

I think it’s a great tool for preserving and promoting artwork. I remember when the only way to document my artwork was through analog photography. If it weren’t for those photographs no one besides my friends or people involved in the street art culture would have seen my work. Now, when I share an image it is available to millions. The digital age has allowed artists of every genre to be recognized. This Lifestyle goes beyond art... it is impossible to simply define especially to anyone outside looking in. This is how I live my life. This is who and what I am. This is about living every day of your life pushing yourself to explore new ways of realizing creative dreams and turning them into reality.

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early Stash train 1985

early Stash graffiti, Bronx 1992

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Reebok classic X Stash Spring/Summer 2014 Collection featuring: Court Victory Pump, Pump Omni Lite and Pump Running Dual

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STASH, COULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR RECENT CREATIVE COLLABORATION WITH REEBOK? I have been working with Reebok for over a year now on what began as an initiative for their classics line, called “city classics”. I curated designs from 12 artists globally to celebrate the classic leather with releases worldwide. Most recently the pump anniversary camo collection. When I originally discussed this project with Ryan Cross I emphasized how important product development was and how much of my original work was going to be featured. That was most important to me because I am known for my art. Reebok will always be Reebok but I needed to ensure my art was integrated into the final product. Collaborations are not as easy as they look. It takes balls to stay true to your vision and beliefs. There is an art to engaging so many others... without diluting yourself and your own brand. It’s a lot of work. You wouldn’t believe the process that goes into a creative collaboration. I had a great time at the release in Moscow – great crew there – and have been working on many other styles since. #facesandlaces

YOU HAVE A LARGE FAN BASE IN JAPAN AND HAVE BEEN OVER 30 TIMES. WOULD YOU MIND TALKING ABOUT HOW THIS CAME TO BE AND WHAT’S NEXT? The first real Japanese coverage was for

GFS, the Philly Blunt Shirt I designed, and was featured in Fine Boy Magazine in 1992. It was shot by the talented Shawn Mortensen, may he Rest in Peace. After that, Subware launched hard in Japan in 1994 and I made the first trip in 1996. Dice & Dice, a local streetwear distributor and the company that built the Futura laboratories, brought me to Japan for Subware. While I was there I reconnected with DJ Krush who I had met on tour in Germany 2 years earlier. Krush rocked Subware and we went out to Club Yellow in Tokyo. I ran into a bunch of old friends that night including the Beastie Boys. My good friend Kennyboy was there too and told me Nigo and Skatething wanted to meet, Hitomi from Good Enough UK had been encouraging me to meet up with Nigo for a while so I went to his office the very next day. We met for a while, had dinner, and that day/night blossomed into a longstanding relationship. A personal shoutout to Hitomi from Good Enough UK (@goodenough_official)

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HOW ARE SOME OF THE WAYS MULTIPLE GENRES OF ART AND MEDIA CAN REMAIN FRESH AND NOT BECOME BORING? I think the idea is to keep moving. If everyone continues to understand this is a movement then it will be more about what’s next and will continue to be inspired by evolving work and trends. When 5points closed it was sad, but it’s better to focus on what else can be done - where else can this movement go? If you continue to think in a forward motion you won’t get bored. If you bore yourself... you can be certain you will bore others. I keep moving and do whatever it takes to stay in motion. I am not afraid to try new things and explore new markets. This openness to forward thinking has allowed me to explore new ways of using technology and to push my art into new mediums-I am not ready to reveal what I am going to do, but I am working on something using Makerbot 3D printing.

YOU SEEM TO BE INVOLVED IN ALL NEW TECHNOLOGY. WHAT IS YOUR PREFERENCE? I utilize all forms of new technology but I have a preference toward Instagram and Tumblr. Many of my friends and affiliates have used new

technology to jump start and accelerate their brands. You look at Van Styles (@Van_Styles), LeicaCraft (@leicacraft), Futura (@futuradosmil), the 13th Witness (@13thwitness), Tats Cru (@ tatscru), Reebok (@reebokclassics), Burton (@ burtonsnowboard), SHUT Skateboards (@ shutnyc), Known Gallery (@knowngallery), The Seventh Letter (@theseventhletter), RVCA (@ rvca), Atmos (@atmos_tokyo), Lafayette (@lafayette_yokohama), The Hundreds (@thehundreds), SSUR (@ssurnewyork), Extra Butter (@extrabutter), Frank 151 (@frank151), Outpost Studio (@outpoststudio)…. all of these guys have huge followings and its not just the number of followers but the fact that people are listening, they are liking, commenting, participating in the conversation. Sharing work is what drives our culture forward and now with social media services like Instagram the images we create go out to the millions of those that are a part of this culture.

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“If you continue to think in a forward motion you won’t get bored. If you bore yourself... you can be certain you will bore others.”

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visualmaintenance by stash, leica store 2014

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YOU WERE RECENTLY IN LOS ANGELES DEBUTING YOUR ORIGINAL WORKS AT LEICA GALLERY AND THE SEVENTH LETTER GALLERY. HAVE YOU ALWAYS BEEN INTO PHOTOGRAPHY? HOW DID THIS COME TO BE?

painter, a photograph is about that moment. The whole collaboration is amazing. I am honored. What can I say? When you are focused and work hard at something it can pay off. Even in the internet age when the skeptics and haters come out of the woodwork; especially in our industry. The world has become so small and everything keeps changing at a fast pace. I am just trying to continue creating... It’s what keeps me

I got interested in photography as a young

going. To be embraced by Leica - outstanding! I

child growing up. My grandfather shot and had a

didn’t see it coming. I am looking forward to con-

darkroom, and my (now estranged) father was a

tinuing being a cultural ambassador for Leica and

professional photographer that graduated from

helping them launch the Leica T-System.

Pratt. I have always been around cameras and

Keep eyes focused on @mr_stash on In-

photography and having children as subjects is

stagram, to keep up with the future of all things

really inspiring-with digital photography it is a

now and next.

whole new ball game. My first digital camera was a Casio QV-10 from an early trip to Japan. When we got home we realized we didn’t have the cords or the software to download the pictures and now everything is instant. Regarding the opportunity to show my photos at the Leica Gallery - I am still on cloud 9. The opportunity was offered to me by David Gensler and Roland Wolff, who I still cannot thank enough. To be able to show my work on that level is beyond my imagination and an amazing honor. The next night we went to open Sprayed in Full, which is the name of my solo painting show at The World Famous Seventh Letter Gallery in Los Angeles, 51 original paintings. Photography actually has a play in my paintings in a weird way and nobody would even make the identification because when you see shape and abstract, you think, “Oh he just did that by eye,” but I photographed hundreds of different paint splats and then projected them much bigger to make the stencils. My idea behind this new style I’m working with has two parts: it’s the exploded view of those drops and it’s the color disruption, its the way that the colors intersect with each other. This is probably the most cohesive study that I’ve done, color-wise, when you look at two colors sitting next to each other it doesn’t give the same effect as one slightly overlapping another, that intersection. At Leica I chose to show my photographs

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Cover and Coverstory: Josh “Stash” Franklin

in black and white because it allows you to see

Words and Interview: David Gensler

shape and form without the camouflage of color,

Shots by David Gensler and Van Styles with Leica

don’t get me wrong, I live for color, but the cap-

T-System @leicacraft

turing of time in a photographic image is revered

further contributors: Ted King, Adam Shatz,

differently than a painting and the evolution of a

Amanda Fleming, Roland Wolff, Morgan Winter

S H O OT

MICHA T-SHIRT: LEVI‘S SHORTS: JULIAN ZIGERLI L AURA BLOUSE: TIGER OF SWEDEN HOTPANTS: MINIMARKET

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SUMMER SADNESS

& R

HANIBALL P

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SALIBA T

FABIAN M

BLASCHKE O

LAURA

MODELWERK

MICHA

M4 MODELS

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MICHA T-SHIRT: LEVI‘S SHORTS: LYLE & SCOTT SHOES: SPERRY

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L AURA DRESS: MONKI

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L AURA JACKET: TOPSHOP

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MICHA SHIRT: MINIMUM SHORTS: JULIAN ZIGERLI SHOES: SPERRY L AURA DRESS: RE ALITY STUDIO SHOES: TOPSHOP

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MICHA SHIRT: LEVI‘S SHORTS: BEN SHERMAN

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L AURA BLOUSE: LEVI‘S MADE AND CRAF TED PANTS: KILIAN KERNER SHOES: GOL A

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S H O OT

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L AURA JACKET: MINT AND BERRY PANTS: ANNE GORKE SHOES: TOPSHOP MICHA PULLOVER: JULIAN ZIGERLI SHORTS: UCON SHOES: SPERRY CAP: NEW ERA

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HEAD

JILTED ROYALTY Jay Read talks to David Jefferies

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HEAD

My name is David Jefferies and I was the co founder of addict clothing. Now I work with various projects for myself and others. Jilted Royalty. I first met Jay a few years back at a trade show, we partied together that evening, shared common interests and have a similar sense of humor. We became good friends very soon after that and Jay is one 100% down to earth, very lovably and a loyal charismatic human being. So Jay, please introduce yourself and tell us what you do? I’m Jay Read, creator of UK based brand Jilted Royalty. I’ve achieved many things in my 32years, a lot of them polar opposites. My attention is now based solely on Jilted, this is only the beginning. What is Jilted Royalty all about & what are the inspirations & influences behind the brand? I think Jilted has surpassed being known as just a clothing brand it’s now a way of life, obviously for myself but also for thousands around the world. Once people learn more of Jilted’s ethos they seem to always find elements they can relate to, my life has been very diverse, I’ve been through it all! The inspiration for the actual cut & sew can come from anywhere and anything I see daily, doesn’t have to be another item of clothing, could be the shape of a building, the design of furniture, the cracks in the ground as you walk the streets, anything… inspiration can be found everywhere if you live with open eyes and an open mind. The innuendos I make through Jilted’s designs comes simply from my life experiences, past and present, good and bad, I have more than enough food for thought! Take us back to your first creative moments & what was the initial spark for making clothing? I first began customizing clothes at around age 25, sick of seeing everybody wearing the same thing I used to make 1off pieces that were a mishmash of different garments I’d put together. This was nothing more than a hobby until I became close to an amazing artist who then inspired me to change career and take things to the next level. I did so and in the space of a year the demand for these pieces was overwhelming. In that year my style had began to change direction and day to day I was wearing a lot more streetwear. Making bespoke pieces was very time consuming, I soon went down the route of manufacturing overseas yet still kept the exclusiveness only ordering limited numbers, my focus shifted away from making garments to focus on the design them… Jilted was born. We are seeing plenty of new street brands popping up in the scene daily… How does Jilted Royalty do such a good job of separating itself from the rest of the industry? When designing I never take inspiration from other brands and being ‘on trend’ has never been my concern. I think that is a big part of why we are not classed as part of ‘the scene’, Jilted is an acquired taste… if you don’t know, don’t worry! What’s the fun part and the hurdles when building JR? Being able to design knowing that I having the capabilities to make anything I choose is an amazing thing and has taken 3 hard years to

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HEAD

secure, seeing samples arrive is always a good feeling, I’m rarely disappointed. Watching Jilted’s growth spread globally over the past few years is also an amazing feeling yet still I only feel like we are only 10% of what we will be in years to come, there are no limits! You never work a day in your life if you enjoy what you do, but Jilted is a 24/7/365 thing for me and the hurdles I face are more personal than business wise. My social life is non existent, the brand and all it involves consumes every hour that I’m awake and I am mentally drained. Our success so far shows me were on the rite path and motivates me never to stop. Hundreds of people around the world now have Jilted tattoos and for them its a way of life, my message/ life has clearly effected theirs and as the face of the brand this causes me a lot of hidden pressure which can effect me in different ways, maybe this is a blessing in disguise as I generally thrive under pressure, keeps me on point! Lets talk about your appearance … You have somewhat of an exotic look … what is the reasons you have tattoos & precious metal teeth? Without boring you and going deep into things I'll just say that my childhood until age 10 was a broken one. My dad is the only man I’ve ever looked up to and at age 10 I moved to live with him, I always used to want the exact same tattoos as he had in exact same places, my idol! Tattoos are obviously the only way of covering skin and as I got older I realized that everyday was a constant reminder of my past simply because I was constantly looking at the same body/skin as I'd grew up with. My life stabilized at age 20 and I decided to start my body suit and rid myself of the past, since then there has been a lot of lasering and re’tattooing yet I’m still far from finished… the process continues. My teeth have been through a lot and were not in the best of condition so I decided to cut em out and have these instead. My dentist made em, jeweler engraved em, and then we fitted em. Simple as that really. Do you get judged by the way you look…some may say you look like a gangster… have you ever been on the wrong side of the law? Every single person, no matter where I am in the world, through interest or ignorance, will look twice! I constantly wear sunglasses as a way deflecting attention, it gives me a sense of invisibility. If I stopped each time somebody made eye contact with me to try and engage conversation id never get anything done, I sometimes stop just to tell them “sorry, I can’t stop”. Its nice to be nice!

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Growing up in a council estate has meant my life has been mayhem from my teenage years, I caused the majority of it myself. I’d never had a job, always been up to no good, and at around age 22 things began getting more serious and organized… lets leave it at that David!!! A few years later was when I met the tattoo artist that inspired me to change my life, things have never been the same! Im still closely affiliated with everybody, just not an active participant in anything they do… never forget where you came from!

The majority of the population are small-minded and will have immediate thoughts on how I look being quick to categorize but rarely do they voice their opinions. On the odd occasion that this may happen, for some reason they always seem to quickly changes their minds, my manners and etiquette can work wonders!

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HEAD

Whats the future look like for JR clothing wise? We have recently confirmed distribution in many new territories. This will continue throughout this year with more and more countries showing us interest. As of the Spring15 drop people will see us pushing the boundaries as far as our cut+sew goes and things will once again move in another direction. I have a close relationship with my manufacturers and they are amongst the best in the business, Having product made in the same factories as Black Scale & Supreme assures the quality I strive for. I see no limits for Jilted as a brand or to the extent of its reach as far as growing the family overseas, were unstoppable! You have a very focused and positive outlook on life... what else makes you happy? With both myself and Jilted (JR) everything is relevant and all plays a part in the ethos behind the Jilted lifestyle. I have put myself through years of self diagnosis to work out and understand my life, I remember being age 9 and looking at my mom, I finally felt no fear an overwhelming power like I was 10ft tall, from that day I have never felt scared of ANYTHING! Through this chain of thought I have trained my feelings to switch off at any given moment, this fearlessness is what ables me to focus and be as driven as I am. There is only 1 thing that will stop me and that is when my heart stops beating, I do not fear that moment so anything between now and then is irrelevant, there is nothing I can’t do! Living daily with a POSITIVE MENTAL ATTITUDE and constantly using THE SECRET helps maintain my focus and keep me moving successfully down my chosen path. Im generally happy and have a twisted sense of humor as you know David, I live to laugh. Being in the public eye, I always keep myself in check, manners cost nothing and etiquette is everything, yet some people take politeness as a weakness and things can easily go down a dark path, for them. In a world of sheep and robots I am happy just waking up in the morning living the life of a free man pushing our message and hopefully inspiring others to do the same… I walk on water! What is the secret? If i told of the secret, then it wouldn’t be a secret… find out! Any last words or shout outs? People underestimate life and how quickly it can disappear, I’ve watched it happen in front of my eyes more than once. We only get one chance at this, so live everyday like its your last, do whatever it is that YOU wanna do, your here to LIVE not just EXIST! ...One Life, One Chance, NO LIMITS! I have a close friendship and have respect for all of the Black Scale family, for many different reasons top to bottom, both personally and in business, Black Scale have unknowingly played a big part in the success of JR inspiring me in many different areas, I never forget. I also wanna thank EVERYONE that has supported us from day 1 and to my amazing team/FAMILY. As I said earlier… this is only the beginning!

Thank you Jay.

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ARTI ST

ELEMENT X PUSH

E H T G N I PUSH S E I R A D N BOU streetwear today 1 | 2014

ARTI ST

When we think about the interplay of street art and street wear, one of the first brands that come into our minds is surely Element. For many years now they are doing a great job in bringing art and style together and giving new impulse to the whole clothing industry while supporting talented artists. One of their latest projects is a collaboration with legendary L.A. based graffiti writer “Push”. If you don't know Push maybe the following quote will help, that was printed in LA Weekly in 2007: “Trying to define Push’s work is unfair, and nearly impossible. It’s easier to say it’s like nothing else: informed by postmodern abstract splatter paintings, yet rigid, neon and precise. Introverted and quiet, he’s the thinking man’s graffiti artist.” If you take a closer look at Push's work, you will immediately realize, how accurate this quote is. At first glance, his works may appear rather simple, but I you look closer you will find out, how sophisticated the geometric patchworks really are. And it is no surprise, that in the last decade Push not only became part of the highly regarded Seventh Letter artist collective, but a highly sought after muralist and designer with countless magazine reviews and art shows around the world. With the forthcoming Element collection now everybody can get hold of a piece of this outstanding artist and we are happy, that Push took the time to answer some short questions regarding his work and the collaboration:

In the past you worked with almost every thinkable surface and material. By the collaboration with element your art is now also presented on Shirts, Pants and also on elements skate decks. How did this collaboration come about and what was your favorite part in creating the forthcoming collection?

“With this Element collaboration, I think it was the mural I painted at The Berrics that caught some attention in the skateboarding world.” – Push

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With this Element collaboration, I think it was the mural I painted at The Berrics that caught some attention in the skateboarding world. Element got in touch with some people I knew and we took it from there. The problem solving in creating the artwork is fun. In this case, it was just working with the color palette Element had chosen for this collection.

ARTI ST

You are active for many years now. A lot of promising artists tend to "burn out" over a longer period of time and start to repeat themselves. But it seems like over the years you always managed to find new and fascinating aspects of your work. Where do you get your inspiration from and what do you do to relax when you are not painting? The possibilities of art seem endless, that's what keeps me inspired. To just be able to do it naturally and creatively,in your own way is what keeps it new and interesting to me. I'm usually working or thinking about something. Painting is my way to relax. What can you tell us about the Seventh Letter Crew and the Los Angeles art scene in general? The Seventh Letter just opened a store / gallery / creative space on Fairfax in L.A, and it stays very productive there art wise. There are still plenty of shows and events, but I think the artists here are starting to travel more to paint because of the cities restrictions to murals. Which plans do you have for the future? I know you will come to Berlin in may for example? Yes, Berlin and Paris in May. I will be painting some indoor and outdoor murals for this collaboration while I'm there. Then, a solo show at the new Seventh Letter space in October. Thanks a lot, and all the best for the future! The collection will be introduced with an art-event in Berlin in May.

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MATTHIAS GEPHART

RARE SHOTS ON PLANET X streetwear today 2 | 2014

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ith every issue, Streetwear Today keeps you updated with great artists from countries around the world. In this issue however, we have the rare opportunity to present an artist, that literally comes from our neighborhood: Matthias Gephart was born and raised in Bochum (Germany), the very city Streetwear Today comes from and he can be described as a long term friend with whom we share a lot of memories. For example we remember very well, when young Matthias started his artistic career back in the 80s - first as a classical graffiti writer and later in combination with photography and paintings. In 1991 he and his brother Felix initiated the “From The Streets To The Gallery” exhibition, which belongs to the earliest displays of the street-art phenomenon around here. In the following years Matthias expanded his working field with photo-composition, stencils, acrylic paintings and screen-printing. Today, Matthias is living and working in Berlin as an award winning graphic designer with an impressive portfolio and countless releases in books and magazines. A successful guy, but he never forgot his roots: Graffiti and Punk Rock still play major parts in his life. He is singer in a Hardcore Punk band and writes on walls whenever he has the opportunity.

Matthias, we normally do not start interviews with a phrase like this – but since you are a longtime friend: How are you? I like this start, as I am very much into topics like "mood" and "spontaneity". Also, I tend to take a question like this as a very friendly and personal approach, so I don’t even consider it a phrase: I like it! Let me answer with a) and b), in no particular order, besides the fact that one of the answers has to come first,

This year he is going to crown his previous career with an ambitious solo-book project called: Rare Shots On Planet X. A high value print product that will be carried out with the help of the crowd sourcing platform “startnext” (www.startnext.de/disturbanity-buch). If we consider the diversity of Matthias’ work over the last decades, we can only guess which parts of his creativity the book might display. So we thought it a good idea to say “hello” and ask him personally...

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while the other one follows and probably slightly opposes the first one – just as contradictory as real life. a) GREAT!!! It´s so motivating to see that things I have been pushing forward for many many years still find space to develop further… and most of all I am happy to realize that these things do really touch some people. I feel very alive. b) Very good, but also quite restless. These days I think I constantly tend to feel like I am exposed to the silence before the

storm. This is due to many circumstances, be it radical changes we all "follow" in the news or personal stories from friends and family that affect me. Probably it has to do with realizing that everything extreme just heads for the even more extreme. You started as a graffiti writer in a rather provincial town and are now a respected artist in Germany’s capital city Berlin. Could you give us a short summary of this development? Oh. What is a respected artist? Is that a question of media coverage, is it a question of integrity, is it a question of financial success, does it show when someone tells you that you have been an influence? What is a provincial town? None of us kids was considering Bochum a provincial town, as far as I can remember. We were very focused on the cultural clans that ruled the world of our teenage times – and as I resumed these clans somehow were like chapters of global cults, I did not doubt growing up in a cultural centre. From my point of view, as a teenager, all important subcultures were represented in Bochum: the ways from BMX riding to skateboarding, to Punk, New Wave, Hip Hop culture and Graffiti crossed or/and interfered in many ways. I don’t exaggerate when I say that this surrounding shaped lifes. Then Bochum back then had this special element with what is entitled „Freiräume" today. The abandoned industry spaces were the most amazing adventure areas I can think of… I know I tend to stress that point in every interview, just thinking about it makes me feel good! Ok, this answer is not short anymore already. My summary is this: after school I thought I should maybe study art, but didn’t. I could not perfectly relate to what I saw in the academies I checked out. I studied, though, went for history and

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ARTI ST

media science, which still interests me a lot, regarding specific topics… but found out, that being a student of humane sciences in a large university was less exiting compared to executing paint jobs with a compagneiro from the new city I had moved to – and when I decided to better switch to studying graphic design, it was ok to carry on working at night. I lived in another city in a house where I made friends with an old lady living under the roof. She was aquarius too and even cared about my goldhamster when I travelled, which I did a lot while I studied. I remember graduating and heading for Berlin, where I found a new home and many many old friends who already moved there or came after me. There was even another goldhamster – and the old lady visited me in a dream. Somehow it’s all still an enclave here, in the capital. Anyway, I’ll try to answer the artist question: one of the most important elements in life is surely the personal respect. If you’re not a negative, destructive person, it’s not so difficult to gain respect – if you’re an artist, you still have to live by the same rules. Like my brother once said: „Wer meint, er isses, der wird´s nicht mehr." – (editors translation: Who thinks he is the one, will never be”) What are your best memories of being young in a city like Bochum? It was adventurous and I have never ever been bored. We had inner city spots to meet and we detected the joy of urban nonorthodox activities of all kinds, we had spots out of the city to climb in at night and act even more non-orthodox. We fought some laws and did not always win. All kind of music scenes could be explored and provocation in the shape of teenage rebellion was

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a passion for many. For a while you also had to be prepared to fight or run very fast, as some places were known to be the selfdeclared property of aggressive retards. Which parts of your early year’s punk attitude can still be found in your work today? I think I just can´t stay away from answering this question very academic first: I think punk was always less an "attitude" for me, than it was more an aesthetic statement, a political "confession" or a cultural strategy. Considering yourself "punk" or feeling related to what’s regarded as the "punk" or "hardcore movement" can have a lot of different reasons. I have seen the first punkrockers when I went to the big eastern marches with my parents, both were involved in the early 80ties peace movement. My parents did not know who these dudes in leather and spikes were – but to me, they appeared as brave as the "wild indians" I knew from western movies. I was 7 or 8 years old, but I understood that these warriors were the opponents of Ronald Reagan. Total fascination, mixed time levels. As I grew up with german new wave (Neue Deutsche Welle), which was on display at the demonstrations as well, the musical influence of punk also hit me quite early. I guess punk is just very natural for me. The same with the visual aesthetics of punk: as it was mainly taken from Dada and PopArt anyway, it even opened (the other way around!) my eyes for other cultural episodes, it even made me easily fall in love with german expressionist poetry. It’s all about the links that make your pulse go faster, I guess. I have been singing in a Punk/Post-punk band from around 1997 on, and today have a band named Radio Schizo, mixing Post-Punk with HC. We have just released an album

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Is there a contradiction? True: I am very positive while "this world" is known to be SO fucked up. I am also very positive BECAUSE of the negativity that can be experienced all around. For my band Radio Schizo, I have written some lyrics that have been evaluated as "endangering for mental health" (even though I think this critic from the punk fanzine Plastic Bomb really said this as a compliment!). The stuff was written like that for the reason that I experienced things that endangered me. Some people have told me they can relate strongly to these lyrics. That´s what I mentioned in the answer to question one – music and lyrics incorporate a very similar approach, just with different mediums. I don’t believe in resignation, I never promote despair. I also don’t promote Dystopia, I might make use of it, transform it as a form of cathartic outbreak. I have had some very interesting discussions about this "twist" between the appearance of some of my work on one hand and my attitude on the other. The most interesting one was probably this conversation with a nun in Greece. She appeared to be even scared, when I showed her a work from my sketchbook (no joke!), but I convinced her that I do not worship the devil. In the end she understood that I am not even a selfbaptized nihilist. What can we expect of “Rare Shots On Planet X”?

entitled „Die Menge macht das Gift". In the beginning of 2014, it was awarded as "Cover artwork of the month" in Vice magazine and received some very delightful reviews in the punk press… I write the lyrics in german ever since, and the record was released D.I.Y. in the form of hand screenprinted cardboard packagings, in a numbered edition of 300 pieces with 12 different covers. This could be an answer to your question in the first place. "Radio Schizo" as a band name is taken from a song of anarchodark-punk pioneers Rudimentary Peni. Their singer has also drawn their album artworks from day one on, which I regard as the absolute punk ideal, being independent and crossing the artistic media with unique style in form and content. He is an artist I find fabulous since I was 15 years old. I also don’t want to forget mentioning that me and my brother Felix, who has been my main partner in crime for ages, were in fact also massively infected by Westcoast G-Funk. We did not feel restricted by any scene police in choosing our inspiration. We even painted a "CHRONIC 1" and a "CHRONIC 2" - wall. Hmmm, ok that was really 20 years ago. I use to not stare at the years and say things like: "Oh, back then I was sooo different." I don’t think I was. If it comes to detecting the musical flavor in my work today, I see that the specific mix of sound that I listen too has consistently influenced specific works. That is, especially in the last few years, not even mainly punkrock in the classic meaning, but different guitar-based and electronic genres as well: from minimal New Wave to Black Metal. It’s mostly slightly darker than what my artist friends do listen to. A central theme of your work is a kind of dystopian view of the world. But you are a person that seems to be full of positive energy. How can you explain this contradiction?

The title of the book is a hint at sci-fi aesthetics of the fifties, addressing plots where the unknown is explored and former certainties have to be exchanged for new perspectives. Not a linear approach is what will be found, but rigid dedication to spontaneity. A book as a collage of book styles, a journey through mediums, graphic approaches and sub-cultures, combining gallery pieces with un-released works, also from sketchbooks and blackbooks. Applied stuff: covers, logos. A book with hot and cold, not a "catalogue". That’s the plan for the next months. Can Crowd-funding lead to a democratization of the art scene? This question primarily presupposes that the art scene is not democratic. Are you serious? Yes, you are. And you are seriously right. I think you already answered the question. Crowd-funding can at least surely contribute to a greater variety in the awareness of artistic styles and cultures, by empowering independent artists. I don’t know if so many already went this way – I guess it has just started. The new options shall open the gates, empires shall fall, Halleluja! What are your plans beyond the book release? I started designing some typographic tattoos recently, I work on record covers, I do a Graffiti workshop with kids. I am exhibiting in Berlin in April, and in Bochum I will have a show opening at the 9th of September, also celebrating the date of the book release. After that I will do a similar show in Berlin to introduce RARE SHOTS ON PLANET X there as well. That’s just how Felix and me did it for his book too. In between I play some gigs with my band and I will surely also try to spend time with my beloved ones, who incredibly support my Disturbanity life. Thanks a lot Matthias, hope to see you soon.

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MUSIC

PILLOWTALK FOR EVERYBODY A LITTLE BIT OFF EVERYTHING

ince about four or five years a fresh new production trio out of the Lower Haight District of San Francisco called PillowTalk take the promising possibilities of melting genres as challenge to create music that combines a lot but stays true to one emotional hallmark: soul. After their debut release on the famed Berlin based Life and Death label in 2011 their genre-blending style has found them dropping acclaimed EPs on labels such as Visionquest, Kompakt,

and the Brooklyn based house stalwarts Wolf + Lamb. The latter now releases their first full-length album produced and recorded by Ryan Williams, Samuel Doylestein and Michael Tello with real instruments, their humming voices, a string of electronic devices, and the vision to create something that appeals to everyone. It is called “Je Ne Sais Quoi” and it features thirteen heartfelt moving blends of classic R‘n’B, boogie, disco, proto house, and techno electronics – all wrapped up with an original feel deep in

their rhythms, melodies, and in their sweat singing between soul and pop. An album that underpins impressively that the PillowTalk’s chemistry is infectious – as producers and as a live band who played already a series of shows around the globe that put them in terms of performance and music into their own space. We wanted to talk to them about their artistic life between the cracks and hooked up with their keyboard and guitar player Ryan Williams for a conversation..

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MUSIC

Hey Ryan â&#x20AC;&#x201C; can you introduce yourself to our readers? Where are you coming from, what is your occupation? And how goes the formation history of PillowTalk?

My name is Ryan Williams. I'm from San Francisco, California. I write music, and play the keys and guitars. PillowTalk came about after a few years of long nights in San Francisco. Every weekend was clubs and house parties. After a while, the three of us started to create some music of our own. Having lots of friends in the business, it wasn't long before our sound got picked up by a few different record companies. And here we are today.

different thoughts and ideas going on all at once. And which of your own tracks are you most proud of?

For me, I am most proud of "Soft". It was the first song I had written with such a tremendous response. The crowds at every show singing the words. People getting tattoos of the lyrics! It was the first time feeling like this wasn't a game anymore. This was the real thing. What is your creative process like?

My musical background before PillowTalk consists of mostly bedroom recordings. I never had any schoo ling or anything like that. I just taught myself.

Pretty organic. It usually forms out of some sort of background idea. Then we let it take shape to what feels right. Keys, drums, lyrics. Nothing is ever forced. Sometimes songs can sit around for months. Other times we can finish them in one night. It all depends on how we're feeling it.

How did you first get into music and performing and when did you decide you wanted to make music your career?

Why you produce an album and not a string of 12inches? What makes the format "album" special to you?

I got into performing when PillowTalk started up. Music has always been my greatest muse. I've wanted to make this my career for as long as I can remember.

An album allows us to create all kinds of music. Slow or fast. We can really take it anywhere we want to go with it. 12inches are usually made for dance heavier, club ready songs. And we didn't want to make only club tracks. We wanted to make other things that you could groove out to when you're chillin' at home, or wherever. We wanted to take it everywhere.

What is your musical background?

What are your biggest musical influences?

Brian Wilson, Devonte Hynes, Broken Social Scene. What do you want to accomplish with music?

To create something that appeals to everyone, but still stay true to ourselves. What comes to your mind when you think of the term pop music?

It's hard to define pop music nowadays. The declining trends it has lead towards over the years has arrived to a very homogeneous sound. It didn't always use to be like this. There was an ideal of pop music. It involved craftsmanship, and heart, and the will for adventure in songwriting. This is how we think of real pop music. Can you describe the relation between your work and your identity?

Our individual identities come though in our work. That's what makes our sound so diverse. There are three

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Is there a dramaturgy on "Je Ne Sai Quoi" in terms of track order and length of tracks or so? If so: can you describe the idea behind it?

There's no real dramaturgy in the way we have laid out this album. It is simply a collection of songs and ideas, from our heads to your ears. What symbolizes the album title? Is there a story behind it?

The whole album is a representation of the title. It all adds up to certain something; you can't quite put your finger on. But hopefully, will love. Where do your lyrics come from? What inspires you to write?

The moment. Wherever we are, whatever we're thinking. It's usually just a flash. Something that sounds appropriate. And then rhythm is formed. Pretty soon we've got a full idea and lyrical structure. When did you start writing/ producing music - and what or who were your early passions and influences?

I started in the mid-2000's sometime. Back then I listened to a lot of different types of music. Hip hop and drum 'n bass. Indie rock and soul. My stuff was all over the place. And what been your main compositional- and production-challenges for "Je Ne Sai Quoi" ?

The biggest musical challenge for PillowTalk is that we all live in different cities, our studio time together is very limited.

What do you usually start with when working on a new piece?

That depends. Sometimes it's a melody. Other times it can be a lyrical idea. Each one is different. How strictly do you separate improvising and composing?

Not strictly at all. Improvisation plays a big part in our compositions. Some things are created with a purpose. Other things are made on the fly, which add a different dynamic and color to something that we may not have thought of before. And how do you keep your work fresh and continue to evolve?

By exploring. Trying different genres, ideas, formats, etc. Can you tell us what makes a track/ song exceptional to you? Tell us a classic that you feel is really outstanding and describe what it is about it that moves you so much.

PillowTalk: Je Ne Sais Quoi (Wolf + Lamb)

One of my favorite's is "Surf's Up" by Brian Wilson. There are so many things to like about this song. It's such a complex idea in its obscurity. Like a pop symphony, with a touch of the psychedelic. The writing and composition seem to go off in a multitude of movements, creating new melodies and hooks the same way a symphony would play it's sonata and cantata all intertwined together.

What can music does which all other art forms cannot?

You do not have to see it, to feel it. And what kind of music would you make in a world without electricity?

Lots of kinds of music. There are an innumerable amount of instruments out there that do not require electricity. Can you please recommend two artists to our readers, which you feel deserve their attention?

Navid Izadi and Tone of Arc. Is there a gift of the nature you, which like to have?

Wind. These are the one instruments I have trouble with. And at least: can you tell us how is a typical weekend like for you?

Well, with us being on tour constantly: I usually get up at 4am Friday morning just to make it to the airport in time for a 6am flight that's going to some gig to the east. Arrive there. Go straight to soundcheck. Get an hour or 2 nap back at our hotel. Get up, and go to the gig, and play. Stay there for a long time. Go back to hotel in the morning, and try to sleep for another couple hours. Get up, and go to airport to make the next flight to the next gig. And repeat all over again, until returning home at the end of the weekend. Text and Interview: Michael Leuffen

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MUSIC

Damon

“Maybe I was just subconsciously avoiding a solo album,” Blur frontman Damon Albarn recently told the Rolling Stone magazine about the case, that he never released a solo longplayer. Whatever it was that kept him from releasing his very own music on an album during his 25-year long career as a songwriter, band leader, project creator, or record label maker: he finally did it! Only once before he released a limited double 10inch record with sketches of solo songs for the London based label Honest Jon’s Records, which he operates together with Honest Jon’s shop owners Mark Ainley and Alan Scholefield since 2002. It’s called “Democrazy” and it is filled with unformed songs, of whom some later been rework for his musical and visual pop project Gorillaz. With “Everday Robots” he now presents a record full of quite private songs that are completed in terms of mixing, producing, and songwriting. After being busy with recording and touring with his bands Blur, Gorillaz, or The Good, The Bad and The Queen over the past two decades he took some time out and recapped his live. “I had spent lots of my life playing in huge great groups of people. Or being a cartoon. Or being in a band. It’s quite a difficult thing for me to make a solo record. That’s why I put it out for so long!” he says in a half hour-long documentation about the genesis of the record. The movie follows him back to his childhood home in Leystonstone, East London – the place where Albarn did not get only his first socialization in a multicultural environment. In coming back to his childhood place he also found the balance, peace, and inspiration to write and finish twelve gently compositions full of deep personal lyrics. Together with XL recordings owner Richard Russell, to whom Albarn gave 60-plus songs for choosing, he assembled a mournful reflective album on which he reviews his childhood or reflects how technology has changed our lives and interpersonal relationships. As guests he welcomes Brain Eno as a singer, as well as Natasha Kahn aka Bat for Lashes, and the Leytonstone City Mission Choir of his old childhood district. They all are part of an honest display of a superstar that never wanted to be one and always tried to do new ways in art to avoid getting one. In a song like the acoustic guitar driven ballad “Hollow Ponds” Albarn slingshots himself back into the year 1976 and its long hot summer that he spent as a kid by a lake close to his neighbourhood in Leystonstone while jumping in the second verse right into the world of the village Aldham in Essex – a rural place in the borough of Colchester where he moved with his family in the late 1970ees for the rest of his childhood. The song is not the only one in which Damon Albarn discloses his soul deeply. Also all the other melancholic orchestrated compositions full of detailed played acoustic instruments, little electronic sounds, vocal samples, piano melodies, strings, and Gospel choirs allow his audience to come real close to his personality. “If you are over the years have liked my more sort of melancholic introspective stuff, then you might like this record. For those who give a shit – and I am not assuming anyone does – hopefully there is a bit of an insight into who I am. Otherwise it is just a neurotic middle aged man talking nonsense out there in the void!” Damon Albarn declares about “Everyday Robots”. Whatever it might be for each listener – it will haunt him deeply anyway!

Albarn

Introspective re-start Damon Albarn Everyday Robots (Warner)

T E X T Michael Leuffen

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BOOK

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MARC OHREM-LECLEF Olympic Favela

The Soccer World Cup in Brazil and the 2016 Olympics in Rio de Janeiro are used by the government as justification to transfer poor famillies to the city periphery, often without prior notice and no compensation. Thousands have already been forcibly evicted and many more are facing removal from their homes. In 2012 Marc Ohrem-Leclef travelled to the favelas of Rio de Janeiro to document the effect of the forced removal on the people. He portrayed the inhabitants and their living space in empathetic shots. He shows people, who, despite their poverty, face the anytime possible divesture of their homes proud and upright.

Marc Ohrem-Leclef: Olympic Favela Damiani 978-8-86208-338-6 www.damianieditore.com

Keiichi Tanaami Killer Joe's

Keiichi Tanaami (*1936) is a Japanese pop and psychedelic artist working in experimental film, illustration, painting and sculpture. His works of the 60s and 70s are induced by LSD and other hallucingenic drugs, but the childhood memories of the Tokyo bombings in the World War II are still the greatest influence, especially the flashes of the bombs reflecting off of his grandfather’s deformed goldfish swimming in its tank. After the encounter with Andy Warhol in the end of 1960’s, became a pioneer of Japanese Pop Art. This book features most of his earliest works, drawings of pop, psychedelic art era after 1965 and all of the collage, painting, silk screen prints and animation works. It's a Wunderkammer of colors and flipping through it's pages is a mindblowing psychedelic experience.

Keiichi Tanaami “Killer Joe´s”. Early Times 1965–73 Verlag der Buchhandlung Walther Koenig / Koenig Books €49,80 978-386335-356-8 www.buchhandlung-waltherkoenig.de

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ROE ETHRIDGE

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Sacrifice Your Body

Roe Ethridge is a commercial and art photographer and the most important representative of as ‘the new school of synthetic photography’. He juxtaposes fashion compositions with snapshots of ordinary life. He merges a rich array of photographic motifs, combining personal documentary images made in western Palm Beach County, his mother’s childhood home, with surreal collage works, and a series discarded from a Chanel fashion shoot. These are interwoven with what appears to be a carefully directed scene depicting a teeth-white Durango SUV sinking into and then being retrieved from a canal. The clash of visual styles, histories and meaning establish a flatline of dissonance underscored by the touchline admonition of the neon title.

Roe Ethridge: Sacrifice Your Body Mack 978-1-907946-61-5 www.mackbooks.co.uk

CHRISTOPHER MAKOS White Trash Uncut

Nobody doubts the significane of punk music. Until today its influence is present in all walks of cultural expression, especially fashion still takes a lot of inspiration from that movement Christopher Makos is worldwide respected for his photographic portraiture. When Makos took pictures for his book White Trash in 1977 he was the first chronicler of the punk scene as it came of age on the streets of New York. With portraits of Andy Warhol, David Bowie, Grace Jones, Patti Smith, Richard Hell, Tom Verlaine, and Iggy Pop, among others, the book became a much sought after collectors item. 37 years after White Trash was published, a revised edition will be available, containing all original images plus 25 pictures that were not included in the first issue.

Christoper Makos: White Trash Uncut Glitterati Incorporated 978-0-9891704-6-8 www.glitteratiincorporated.com

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SHOP

ALL GIRLS EVERYTHING

STRAW BERRY The story of a girl boardshop straight outta Wilmersdorf

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Juliane Behnfeld runs this place since 1995. She´s your typical Berlin loudmouth with her heart in the right place. She´s a very welcoming and social person with a remarkable volition. Grown up in former East-Berlin she faced charges when she was falsely blamed with attempted flight from the GDR, at the age of 20. Due to that she became a persona non grata, practically someone who didn´t exist in the system anymore. She couldn´t find a regular job and came by with the help of friends. Her only chance was to get out there, this time for real. She organised a sham marriage with a chummy friend from West-Berlin and moved there six months before the wall came down. In the first time she enjoyed the freedom and travelled a lot. From 1991 to 1994 she operated a surfshop in Prerow on the Darß, that´s on the Southern Baltic Sea coast. In 1995 th eopportunity to rent the place right next to California Boarding ( Berlin´s prime board store at that time) , came up and the idea was born to offer a range of women´s clothing. The selection for women provided by the companies was small but at least there was something. Strawberry opened its doors in April 1995. Skateboarding was resurrecting, Snowboarding was booming and Surfing was still King. There were already a couple of stores in reunified Berlin with supply that mostly came from the States. The clothing that evolved from boardsports became popular in urban regions but it was only men´s gear. Girls liked the style too but there were no offerings for them whatsoever. Juliane´s first snowboard equipment was all men´s. Juliane took inspiration from small surfshops for girls she knew from California. But it was pretty tough in the beginning. Most of the girls didn´t understand the concept and had some sort of Schwellenangst to enter the store without their boyfriend. The development of a girls boarding scene in Berlin took years. It was helpful that Juliane and some friends offered workshops concerning snowboard maintenance. Furthermore there was the opportunity to participate in day trips to the Central German Uplands and attend a trial course in snowboarding. The all around customer care is most likely the reason that Strawberry survived. And the fact that she could offer brands like Volcom, Obey, Evaw Wave, Epic etc. exclusively. Besides that Juliane offered customers to sell handmade beanies and selfmade tees in the store. Every once in a while Juliane offers a range of self-designed clothing and every year a selection of scarves is produced which are popular with her customers. Nowadays many brands offer assortments for girls that often are designed by women. Bags, Flip-Flops and beach fashion are part of the supply. Today online shops are the major challenge. Many consumers forgot to support the local shops. But the industry feels the effect, without consulting there is no scene and thus no new blood.

Julianes bottom-line: „The self-confidence of women in boardsports is way better than in the beginnings. After all there are female athletes that board as good, if not better, as men.“ So here´s to another twenty years of your shop and, referring to a famous song: Strawberry Girls Forever!

PHOTOGRAPHY

HYPEBEAST Magazine Issue 06

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H A W K

J A CK ET WOOD WOOD S CA R F V I N T A G E MARC JACOBS T - S H I R T A L E X A N D E R WA N G N E C K L A C E B J Ø R G G L O V E S N I K E L E G G I N S S T I N E G O YA S H O E S W O O D W O O D

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SHIRT SAMSØE SAMSØE

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C O A T HENRIK VIB SKOV G L A S S E S B JØRG P A N T S C H E A P M O N D AY S H O E S N I K E A F 1

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