COR - The Local Magazine #4 (EN)

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L O C A L

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SUSTAINABLE

TRADITIONAL

CREATIVE

Delightful eco-friendly holidays

Cherished childhood dishes

Extraordinary art from the Eisacktal valley

Our Wo es schmeckt!

Treasures Ein Heft über den Genuss und die Berge

Great art, great food, and life’s other pleasures

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K L A U S E N

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G I T S C H B E R G

J O C H T A L

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N A T Z - S C H A B S

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L Ü S E N

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Contributors 1 Author Debora Longariva cannot resist the magical allure of abandoned places. She therefore jumped at the chance to research the world hidden behind Säben Abbey’s medieval walls (p. 70) and to explore the former military base in Franzensfeste/Fortezza (p. 66).

2 This issue of COR brought together two namesakes. COR Circus, a colossal bronze statue by artist Peter Senoner (p. 48), watches over the Eisacktal valley and before featuring in this issue presumably knew as little about our magazine as the editorial team knew about the name of this mighty cyborg.

Unfortunately, the cyborg wasn’t available to give us a statement.

3 A photoshoot on the slopes? “I can't imagine anything better!” replied photographer Michael Pezzei, who also happens to be a passionate skier.

He was deeply impressed

by Linda Stricker’s skiing skills (p. 56) and had to work hard to keep up with her.

Cor. Il cuore. Das Herz. The heart. It jumps with joy in the places where you feel a sense of belonging – in those places you call home.

But what does home mean? And can you have more than one home? Of course you can! After all, home is quite simply a place where you feel happy and are surrounded by kind-hearted people. This magazine takes you on a journey to Brixen/Bressanone, Gitschberg Jochtal/ Rio Pusteria, Klausen/Chiusa, Natz-Schabs/ Naz-Sciaves and Lüsen/Luson. A journey through a region that is home to all the seasons. And a region that opens its arms to holidaymakers who want to travel with peace of mind and a clear conscience, an open spirit and happiness in their hearts. Because when we travel, not simply for the sake of mindless consumerism, but to experience our world and to explore and understand it, that’s when we are truly enriched.

Happy reading!

The Editorial Team

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Treasured Traditions Four blissful images

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New & Approved News from the region

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Q&A with...

Magdalena Jöchler, who splits her time between a bustling big city and an idyllic mountain lodge

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A Land Shaped by the Seasons An ode to South Tyrol’s seasons

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Travelling with a Clear Conscience Sustainability, happiness and life’s little pleasures

4 Credits PUBLISHERS Brixen Tourismus Genossenschaft Tourismusgenossenschaft Gitschberg Jochtal Tourismusgenossenschaft Klausen, Barbian, Feldthurns und Villanders Tourismusgenossenschaft Natz-Schabs Tourismusverein Lüsen IDM Südtirol – Alto Adige

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Dishes from our Childhoods Food with a special place in our hearts

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A Region Rich in Stone The underground treasures of the Eisacktal valley

CONTACT info@cormagazine.com EDITORIAL TEAM Exlibris www.exlibris.bz.it PUBLISHING MANAGEMENT Valeria Dejaco, Debora Longariva (Exlibris), Karin Niederfriniger (IDM)

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lenz Koppelstätter ART DIRECTOR Philipp Putzer www.farbfabrik.it AUTHORS Valeria Dejaco, Stefania Fracassi, Cassandra Han, Marianna Kastlunger, Lenz Koppelstätter, Anna Kornprobst, Teseo La Marca, Debora Longariva, Judith Niederwanger und Alexander Pichler (Roter Rucksack), Silvia Oberrauch, Anna Terleth

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Small Space, Great Art Insights into a lively local art scene

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Ywain Kills Askalon A piece of history

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Life in the Fast Lane An interview with Linda Stricker

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Beautiful Things Products from the region

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Spectacular Places Franzensfeste fortress

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A Beginner’s Guide to South Tyrol Part 4: Bringing up baby, Alpine style

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A Short Dictionary of South Tyrolean Understand what the locals say

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A Hidden Past The end of an era

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Our Favourite Places...

For families

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Savour the Moment The story behind a favourite photo

Steep Slopes A visit to the Kuenhof winery

PHOTOS Florian Andergassen, Leonhard Angerer, Bergwerk Villanders, Brixner Hütte/Magdalena Jöchler, Brixen Tourismus (A. Filz, G. Hofer, M. Kottersteger), Fotoarchiv des Amtes für Bau- und Kunstdenkmäler Abteilung Denkmalpflege Provinz Bozen, Festung Franzensfeste (Fly Südtirol, Günter Richard Wett), Cassandra Han (privat), Fabian Haspinger, HuskySledDog/Greta Bonavoglia, IDM (A. Andreis, M. Ferrigato, A. Filz, A. Moling, H. Niederkofler, H. Wisthaler), Kuenhof/Andreas Tauber, Gasthof Bad Dreikirchen, Michael Pezzei, Raststätte Lanz/Matthias Lanz, Caroline Renzler, Roter Rucksack, Sportservice Stricker/Linda Stricker (privat), Tourismusgenossenschaft Natz-Schabs/Andreas Tauber, Tourismusgenossenschaft Gitschberg-Jochtal (H. Moling, T. Monsomo, Rotwild, H. Niederkofler), Tourismusgenossenschaft Klausen (W. Gafriller, P. Santifaller),Tourismusverein Lüsen/H. Niederkofler, ullstein bild, Gustav Willeit ILLUSTRATIONS Sabine Kranz (4, 68), Dialog Brixen (16) TRANSLATIONS AND PROOFREADING Exlibris (Valeria Dejaco, Helene Dorner, Debora Longariva, Milena Macaluso, Charlotte Marston, Silvia Oberrauch, Federica Romanini, The Word Artists) PRINT Lanarepro, Lana

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Treasured Traditions Distant summits, delightful gardens, relaxing meals and beautiful animal headwear – four blissful images from the region

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Picture-perfect scenery. In sunny weather, the view from Terenten/ Terento stretches all the way across to the jagged slopes of the Peitlerkofel, towering 2,875 metres into the cloudless blue sky.

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Constructed in the 13th century, the Hofburg palace in Brixen/Bressanone was once home to the town’s prince-bishops. Today, it houses the Diocesan Museum, which displays religious art from the medieval period all the way up to the 20th century.

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The Törggelen harvest festival is an essential part of life in the Eisacktal valley.

Every autumn, once the chestnuts are ripe, they are roasted and served with young wine, grape juice and homemade products such as Schlutzer ravioli, speck ham, smoked dry sausages known as Kaminwurzen, fresh sausages and pickled cabbage. The tradition is best enjoyed in one of the region’s farmhouse inns – or outside.

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In South Tyrol, cows are regarded as more than just livestock. They are also a symbol of the region’s farms, its way of life, its traditions and its proximity to nature. In autumn when it is time to bring the cows down from their mountain pastures for winter, they are beautifully adorned with flowers and other decorations in a proud celebration of this custom.

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NEW & APPROVED News from the region

A musher on the Würzjoch pass, Greta Bonavoglia is an expert dog sled driver.

This Issue’s Lucky Number CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF DELICIOUS CUISINE FROM THE EISACKTAL VALLEY Every year in March the longest-running speciality food festival in South Tyrol takes place. The two-week festival sees 14 restaurants from Sterzing/Vipiteno to Barbian/Barbiano serve up traditional fare from the Eisacktal valley. The chefs involved refine and reinterpret dishes from old recipe books to create a tempting array of old and innovative spring specialities using local produce.

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The Dog Whisperer “YOU CAN HARDLY CALL what I do work. It’s my passion!

And every day brings a new adventure.” Together with her partner – and their 26 huskies – Greta Bonavoglia runs HuskySledDog, a company offering dog sledding experiences on the Würzjoch pass.

The 39-year-old doesn’t have a favourite dog and likes to build a unique relationship with every single husky. “We’ve always loved animals. It all began when a friend gave us our first dog and we discovered our passion for dog sledding.”

At HuskySledDog, visitors can drive their sled by themselves following a short induction.

“Sledding with our dogs is a unique adventure which allows

you to rediscover yourself in magnificent natural surroundings. You’ll never forget your first ride on a dog sled. I love being able to experience this moment with my customers,” says Greta. What do the huskies do in summer? “During the summer months, we live on a farm in Rimini near the Adriatic Coast. Here, the dogs can relax in the shade, play and recharge their batteries.

In September and October, we restart their training before returning to the snow.” www.huskysleddog.com

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Three Excursions ❶ THE CREATION TRAIL The Creation Trail (Schöpfungsweg) on the Rodenecker-Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture invites hikers to engage in a spot of reflection amidst the majestic mountain landscape. The six-kilometre route retells the biblical story of Creation through eight modern pieces of art. The trail ends at the Pianer Kreuz chapel, where you also find the last work of art – a bench to represent how, once Creation was complete, God made the seventh day a day of rest. ❷ BRIXEN/BRESSANONE TO VILLNÖSS/FUNES CYCLE PATH Rustic farmhouses, lush green meadows and a breathtaking mountain landscape await cyclists on this stunning route, which runs from Brixen, along the Villnösser Tal valley and all the way up to Ranui at the foot of the Geisler peaks. Besides several enchanting villages and magnificent panoramic views, the route also passes numerous places to take a break and grab a bite to eat.

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Sustainable activities ②

Turn to page 22 for some more excursions for cyclists and hikers.

❸ THE MOUNTAIN PINE TRAIL The Mountain Pine Trail (Latschenweg) on the picturesque plateau of the Villanderer Alm Alpine pasture offers unforgettable panoramic views of the Dolomites to the east. Running through mountain pine forests, this circular hiking trail leads to the Marzuner Schupfe mountain lodge. The nearby mountain pine distillery is open to the public and provides insights into the production of essential oils.

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Fine Wine from a Bunker HEAD TO THE Pustertaler Staatsstrasse/Strada Statale della Pusteria and you will find a small vineyard going from strength to strength. The Lanz family have been growing grapes for their own “Julian” Riesling here since 2016. Fascinatingly, the wines and barrels are stored in the family’s very own historic bunker from the Second World War. Tours through the old passageways (including wine tasting) are on offer from May to October. To find out more or to book, please call +39 348 2230125 or email info@lanz.store.

P is for...

Picnic Hamper

EVER WONDERED how the locals used to carry their possessions from A to B? The answer is with a “Kraxe”, an early form of backpack made from wood. In days gone by, farmers, hawkers and pedlars used them to carry everything from hay and food to tools and goods on their backs.

Inspired by this, the Rossalm guesthouse has now created its very own Kraxe picnic hamper, giving visitors the chance to step back in time and go for a hike with a Kraxe on their back before enjoying a picnic in the beautiful countryside. Ideal for couples and families, the picnic hamper includes a picnic blanket and a delicious assortment of local, homemade products (vegetarian option also available). To help the environment, there is no plastic packaging and everything is locally sourced. www.rossalm.com

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Architectural Gems in Barbian/ Barbiano ❶ GASTHOF BAD DREIKIRCHEN HOTEL “There was a delightful solitude [amidst] mountains, forests, flowers, water...” This was how Sigmund Freud described his stay in the idyllic hamlet of Bad Dreikirchen/Bagni Tre Chiese in Barbian. The historic Gasthof Bad Dreikirchen hotel is located next door to the hamlet’s three churches. Steeped in tradition, the hotel has been run by the same family for 200 years and in 2022 it received the special distinction in the “Historic Hotel of the Year” award. The building has been beautifully restored and retains many of its original features, combined with modern touches. Particular highlights are the library, music room, dining room and traditional cosy farmhouse kitchen.

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Combined with care: Whether traditional and contemporary or comfortable and minimalistic – in Barbian, nature and architecture are skillfully intertwined.

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❷ EINÄUGL AND ❸ ISIDOR TREE HOUSE Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, the Einäugl was constructed on the slopes above Barbian in 2021 on the exact spot where a building burnt to the ground in 1982. Nestled timelessly into the countryside, this simple round wooden building – which is part of Hotel Briol – brings together nature, architecture and people in perfect harmony. Inside, architect Theo Gallmetzer continues the pared back, minimalist theme from the outside. The Isidor Tree House next door is an ideal place for couples and families to retreat into nature.

Covering 50 square metres, this secluded wooden building is surrounded by forests and meadows and offers privacy and comfort. The views from the floorto-ceiling windows stretch all the way out across the spectacular landscape of the Dolomites.

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Q&A with...

Magdalena Jöchler, who fulfilled a long-held dream by swapping her life as a big-city journalist to manage a mountain lodge in the Pfunderer Berge mountains

Magdalena Jöchler splits her time between a bustling big city and an idyllic mountain lodge.

You spend your winters living in Vienna and your summers managing the Brixner Hütte mountain lodge at 2,282 metres above sea level.

What made you choose this lifestyle?

In Vienna, I often joked to my friends that one day I’d run a mountain lodge. I’ve always been fascinated by the idea of living and working in one. If the last few months have taught us anything, it’s that we have to make our plans and dreams a reality while we still can, instead of constantly putting them off until tomorrow. So when I was asked if I would like to run the Brixner Hütte together with Christoph Giacomuzzi and Simon Baumgartner, I leapt at the chance – and I’m happy to report that I haven’t regretted my decision so far! This is my second summer here. At the start of June, we’ll trudge up the mountain through the last patches of snow and get everything ready for our guests, and in October we’ll shut up the lodge for winter and return to our “normal” jobs in the valley.

How do the three of you cope with living in such close quarters in such a remote location? Do you ever lose your patience with each other?

To be honest, yes, we’ve come close a few times. Spending four months working long hours without any privacy, we’re bound to annoy each other sometimes. In our first year, we had a lot of important decisions to make. What will it take to manage this lodge successfully? What should we put on the menu? How should we organise our everyday tasks? We got to know each other very quickly during these discussions. And we all got on each other’s nerves at times.

But we’re friends – still. We’ve grown as a team and we complement each other well.

What dish would you recommend from your menu?

As run-of-the-mill as it sounds, dumplings with coleslaw. Our buckwheat dumplings are hard to beat! Even our predecessor, Martha, said they were exceptional when she taste-tested them. And that must mean something because Martha’s buckwheat dumplings were once applauded by award-winning South Tyrolean chef Herbert Hintner.

Suggested hike: Fane Alm – Wilder See lake – Brixner Hütte The Fane Alm Alpine hamlet is just a few minutes’ walk from the Fane Alm car park. From here, you can hike along path number 17 through the Valler Schramme gorge.

Branching off to the left, path number 18 takes you to the Labesebenalm Alpine pasture, from where a narrow path leads to the crystal-clear Wilder See lake at 2,532 m.

Finally, take path number 17B across the Rauhtaljoch pass (2,800 m) and descend to the Brixner Hütte.

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A Land Shaped by the Seasons An ode to South Tyrol’s seasons and how absence makes the heart grow fonder

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omething was wrong. I couldn’t pinpoint what exactly, but I knew that something was amiss, or rather, that something was missing. I was missing something, missing it a lot in fact. But what was it? In my younger days, I wasn’t missing anything. I found life in South Tyrol’s idyllic Alpine paradise stifling and cliché-ridden, so there was nothing to miss when I broke free and moved to a large, dirty, noisy city. It didn’t bother me how I was so far north that the sun hardly showed its face in winter. Or at least it didn’t bother me at first. I was young and I spent all night partying and most of the day sleeping it off.

What did I need the sun for? But, at some point, as I got older it started to wear me down. At some point, I understood that here in this big city way up north, people spent every day and every hour of the long, dark winter looking forward to a brief spell of beautiful summer weather, which would hopefully arrive soon and couldn’t come soon enough. And when summer finally did arrive, they spent this short – always very short, in fact! – period of sunshine dreading the impending arrival of yet another long, dark winter. Yes, there was snow, but what good is snow without mountains or sunshine? It was madness!

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I realised that it is the ever-changing seasons that make life in my homeland of South Tyrol so worth living. I love how in March skiers can still speed over the snowy slopes on the Plose, while down in the valley in Brixen/Bressanone spring is in the air, flowers are in bloom and you can enjoy your first summer drink of the year. Or how in autumn, during the Törggelen harvest festival, you can tuck into seasonal delicacies in a mountain inn up in the Eisacktal valley and admire the leaves ablaze with glorious reds, yellows and golds. And how at the end of winter you can look forward to spring, how the end of spring heralds the arrival of summer, how summer rolls into autumn and then it’s time to look forward to winter again.

Each season isn’t afraid to reveal its true, unique colours. Our lives – and often our work outside in nature – are shaped by the perpetual turning of the seasons. This is a source of happiness, with every season being savoured and enjoyed to the full. It’s a reflection of how, in life, the things we have to wait for, and which aren’t always just there for the taking, are the things which delight us the most. It’s these small moments – nature’s little cues that we see in our outdoor pursuits and local delicacies – which make us await the arrival of each season with joyful anticipation. When, for example, as spring wrestles with winter, you hike on the Gitschberg mountain and see the first colourful buds poking their heads above the white carpet of snow as if in a watercolour painting. Or when you’re strolling in the mountains above the Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture on a hot summer’s day and suddenly feel the first hint of autumn in the air. When in late October, as you’re roasting chestnuts, it starts snowing without warning and the children stare out at it, their wide eyes glued to the window as they imagine building a snowman the next morning as the sun shines in a cloudless sky. Or when, at the start of spring, you spend one final day on the slopes despite the snow already being wet and sticky by 10am. As you enjoy a last glass of sparkling wine in the ski lodge and carve a few final turns in the snow, you’re already thinking ahead to your first day of bathing at the Schrüttenseen mountain lakes.

A few years ago, I left the large, noisy, dark city behind me and returned to the mountains. Will I stay here for good? Who knows. If I do, it will be the four elements of happiness – spring, summer, autumn and winter – which will keep me here and make it impossible to leave.

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Travelling with a Clear Conscience T e x t

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Is it possible to go on an eco-friendly holiday without compromising on comfort?

We challenged a young couple to give it a go. Here, they report on how they enjoyed a relaxing break while still doing their bit for the environment

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Left: Hiking guide Raimund Gietl takes visitors on a journey of discovery through the former granary of South Tyrol.

T “Just being here makes you feel happy to be alive!”

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Bottom: Hotel manager Elmar Braun wants to prove that holidaymakers can enjoy a luxurious trip while also being sustainable.

hroughout the holiday, it slowly dawned on us that surely there had been some mistake. It came to us as we dined on a vegan menu of pepper and coconut soup followed by buckwheat risotto with fresh chanterelle mushrooms, as we strolled from our hotel’s vine-covered arbour to the infinity pool overlooking the Dolomites, and as we sipped on a glass of Gewürztraminer in the hot tub and lay back to gaze up at the starry, late-summer night sky. We just couldn’t shake the thought that none of this seemed like deprivation to us.

Forgoing life’s pleasures was the first thing which came to mind when we decided to go on this holiday.

We wanted to embark on a guilt-free trip to South Tyrol/Südtirol, explore Brixen/Bressanone, Klausen/Chiusa and the villages high above the Eisacktal valley, and return home with a clear conscience.

But having a clear conscience means doing without a thing or two, doesn’t it? Or at least that’s what we’ve always assumed, especially since giving up plane travel and SUVs. This belief has been ingrained in me since childhood – since the days when my mum ignored my protests for sugary chocolate cereal and insisted on putting organic muesli into the supermarket trolley instead. The lesson to me was clear: When you choose to go organic, you’re paying extra for peace of mind and a healthy lifestyle, but not necessarily for more enjoyment. Aren’t you?

Perhaps I’ve been mistaken all these years.

Elmar Braun, for example, is someone who sees things very differently. The 40-year-old family man runs the Pennhof certified organic hotel on the sundrenched western slopes of the Eisacktal valley in Barbian/Barbiano, where we had the privilege of staying for a few days. After spending many years living and working as a vegan head chef in Portugal, Thailand and the Netherlands, Elmar felt compelled to return to South Tyrol, “the most beautiful place in the world,” as he puts it. “The mountains, the lakes, the vineyards, the wonderful food – just being here makes you feel happy to be alive!”

Elmar was just ten years old when his parents decided to turn their family farm organic. Years later, after staying at an organic hotel during his travels, he decided to build on what his parents had done by

bringing the concept to South Tyrol. He takes care of the guests, while his parents and brother continue to manage the adjoining farm. Here, visitors can watch dairy cows gently licking their calves, feed bread to pigs and goats in the petting zoo, and marvel – from a safe distance – at a clucking brood of organic laying hens scratching around outside. You get a good feeling about the place as soon as you arrive. The Pennhof offers all the services expected of a luxury hotel – a sumptuous dinner menu and Alpine sauna, to name just two – combined with the feeling of holidaying on a farm. It’s a fantastic mix.

The once globetrotting Elmar – who still retreats to his small property in Colombia twice a year – wants to be more than just a successful hotel manager. He wants to prove that it is possible for holidaymakers to enjoy a luxurious trip while also being sustainable and not racking up a huge carbon footprint. But is that really possible?

To help us find out, we headed to a place where all we could hear was birdsong and the trickling of a mountain stream somewhere in the distance. Here, in the foothills of the main chain of the Alps, we followed retired hiking guide Raimund Gietl through meadows and evergreen forests until we reached a small wooden hut bearing all the hallmarks of 500 years of exposure to the Alpine elements. We could

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hear something clattering away behind the weatherworn walls, and on stepping inside, we discovered a wonderful feat of engineering turning grain into flour purely by harnessing the power of water.

Without any complicated mechanics, electricity or human strength, this extremely heavy millstone has been providing a source of nutrition for centuries. I glanced over at our guide and noticed that we weren’t the only ones who were amazed by what was in front of us. As Raimund explained how the water mill works, he could hardly conceal his deep admiration for this once vital piece of technology. With delight, he explained how the interlocking cogwheel and pinion convert power from the horizontal main shaft into vertical energy; how the steady vibrations cause the grain to trickle through the mill hopper into the gap between the millstones; and how only a few small adjustments are needed to change the coarseness of the milled flour.

The fact that there are so many ❶ flour mills here near Terenten/Terento is no coincidence. “This region was the granary of South Tyrol for generations,” explained Raimund. However, when the small-scale grain farmers on the high plateau realised they could no longer keep pace with imports from abroad, the majority of them switched to dairy farming from the 1950s onwards. Instead of grain, they grew lush green grass on the meadows, so that they could provide their dairy cows with a nutritious diet.

It’s only in more recent years that a few daring young farmers have followed in their ancestors’ footsteps by giving grain a go again – this time growing it organically. And their gamble has paid off. Once again, the region is growing its own grain, milling its own flour and baking its own bread.

After our visit to the old flour mills, we called in at Tötscherhof farm in Terenten and discovered that the flour is not only zero emissions, but tastes delicious too. The farm bakes its own sourdough bread in an old rustic oven housed in a covered outbuilding in front of the farmhouse. Following a traditional recipe ❶ handed down through the generations, up to 500 loaves of bread can be baked here in a single day when the oven is fired up early in the morning. →

It’s only in more recent years that daring young farmers have followed in their ancestors’ footsteps by growing grain again – organically.

The Terenten mills An excursion to the Terenten flour mills is a fascinating journey back in time and gives you the chance to explore old traditions and learn more about these impressive water wheels. Plus it’s a beautiful walk!

Starting from Terenten village centre, the easy and educational Mill trail takes you across meadows, through pine forests and past surreal natural earth pyramids, reaching the first mill in around 45 minutes. On Mondays during the summer months, a mill is open and can be visited. The Terenten tourist association can arrange guided hikes with local experts. www.gitschberg-jochtal.com

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Farmer Georg Feichter explained how, even within his lifetime, farming families once needed huge ovens like this to feed their many children.

Georg himself was one of eight children and remembers how he and his siblings used to hungrily wolf down the crusty bread with speck ham and cheese.

We could see why – the freshly baked farmhouse bread was delicious!

These days, however, traditional products made using old recipes and methods are no longer the preserve of farmers. As we strolled through Brixen’s vibrant and picturesque old town, we soon discovered a myriad of small shops selling regional and sustainable products, such as the ❷ Pur Südtirol gourmet food shop, where we found organic eggs from our host Elmar’s farm sitting alongside organic flour milled from South Tyrolean grain. Most of all, we were surprised by how much Brixen, the oldest town in Tyrol, has retained its unique charm. Instead of the same-old international chains which sadly dominate the shopping streets of more and more European cities, Brixen is home to an array of local shops and retailers which uphold the values of fair fashion, such as ❸ Kauri Store, or focus on upcycling, such as ❹ WiaNui. Sustainable shopping is great, but when it comes to heavier equipment, an even greener option is hiring rather than buying. Hiring an electric bike is especially popular and e-biking is a fantastic, environmentally friendly way of exploring the region without the fear of aching muscles the following day.

The Lüsner Tal valley has become a mecca for electric bike enthusiasts in recent years. Located to the north of Brixen between the Plose mountain and the Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture, it curves gently to the southeast and ascends to the Würzjoch pass, where the majestic Dolomites begin.

For many years, the valley avoided being taken over by conventional winter tourism due to the lack of ski lifts. And as we learnt from Franz Hinteregger, whom we joined for a guided electric bike tour on the ❺ Lüsner Alm, the locals were originally afraid of the impact tourists would have on the region.

From the Lüsner Alm, we enjoyed panoramic views of the mighty Peitlerkofel mountain, the Geisler peaks and the Dolomites behind, the Eisacktal valley to the south and the snow-covered main chain of the Alps to the north. Sweeping pastures stretched out in front of us, punctuated by fragrant stone pine forests and cows grazing on the horizon. →

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Sustainable shopping in Brixen ② Pur Südtirol Pur Südtirol sells a wide selection of regional and organic South Tyrolean delicacies, ranging from wine to speck ham. It also stocks locally made handicraft products and cosmetics. www.pursuedtirol.com

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④ WiaNui

If you are looking for fashion which is bang on trend but also sustainable and fair, then look no further than the range of clothes brands stocked

by Kauri Store.

“As good as new” is the motto of the upcycling initiative WiaNui. The high-quality items sold by the shop in Stadelgasse/ Via Fienili in Brixen are the perfect example of how sustainability and beautiful objects can go hand in hand.

www.kauristore.com

www.wianui.eu

③ Kauri Store

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E-biking in Lüsen/Luson Besides traditional bike rental shops, numerous hotels now also rent electric bikes to their guests. The Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture, which forms a plateau together with the Rodenecker Alm Alpine pasture, is an ideal spot for e-biking. With its 20 square kilometres of gently rolling meadows and spectacular panoramic mountain views, it’s not to be missed. www.luesen.com

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In these idyllic surroundings, it quickly became clear what Franz meant when he talked about the potential damage that tourism could do. However, in the Lüsner Tal valley, the people recognised this risk and took an environmentally friendly approach, creating a diverse network of hiking trails and forest tracks, which are ideal for tobogganing, winter hiking and snowshoeing in the colder months. The valley is the perfect spot to unwind and get back to nature and is a shining example of sustainable tourism.

Franz himself has also developed a taste for this lifestyle. At least once a week, he takes his guests on an electric bike ride in the local mountains, returning to his hotel tired but happy.

And that’s exactly how we felt that evening in the Pennhof after enjoying an exciting, action-packed day in the mountains. We were tired, but not exhausted, and felt at peace yet at the same time invigorated. After so much exertion, the mouth-watering dinner menu was certainly the perfect way to recuperate!

Through the dining room’s panoramic veranda windows, we could see the Dolomites ablaze in fiery shades of red in the evening light. Our eyes drifted to Elmar, who was throwing old wooden crates on to the fire pit together with a colleague. Always with the environment in mind, Elmar likes to recycle whatever he can and therefore uses combustible waste instead of firewood. The fire was soon flickering and crackling away and, as dusk fell, we watched mesmerised as our view of the glowing mountains gradually faded, replaced by the flames of the fire. After a holiday like this, it seems that sustainability, happiness and life’s little pleasures can coexist after all.

Sweeping pastures stretched out in front of us, punctuated by stone pine forests and cows grazing on the horizon.

Farm shops in and around Klausen Tschotthof

Radoar

Obergostnerhof

This farm in Villanders/ Villandro sells jam and syrup made from homegrown cherries, apricots, apples and berries as well as herbal and floral salts, speck ham and dried fruit.

To enter the small shop at Radoar farm in Feldthurns/Velturno, you first need to give the farm bell a good ring. Once inside, you can choose from a range of wine and schnapps, apple juice, vinegar and dried fruit as well as fresh organic chestnuts and nuts in autumn.

In Pardell near Klausen, the Gasser family sells an array of home-made specialities in their small farm shop, such as honey, apple cider vinegar or dried pears known as “Kloazn”.

www.tschott.com

www.radoar.com

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Sustainability for children Bühlerhof How do we turn milk into butter or grain into bread? At the Bühlerhof farm in Raas/Rasa (NatzSchabs/Naz-Sciaves), children have fun learning about local production cycles and even get to try some home-made products. The petting zoo, farm Olympics and child-friendly farm tours are a great way for little ones to discover what sustainable farming is all about. www.buehlerhof.it

Tötscherhof farm bakes its own sourdough bread following a recipe handed down through the generations.

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Dishes from our Childhoods Food is an intrinsic part of many happy childhood memories, so much so that the taste and aroma of our first favourite dishes never leave us. Here, two innkeepers and a head chef reminisce about their childhoods and explain how their lives have been shaped by their early memories of food

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The Turmwirt, AO and Ahner Berghof all preserve old traditions while catering to modern tastes.

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MARIA GASSER (39), Turmwirt in Gufidaun/Gudon “The Turmwirt is where I grew up and it’s been in my family for five generations. I regularly had to help out in the restaurant from a very young age. My favourite place to eat as a child was at my grandma Rosa’s house in Waidbruck/Ponte Gardena. My sister, cousins and I used to visit her together and she often treated us to our favourite dish: potato pancakes with sauerkraut. Kartoffelblattln, as we call them. The potato pancakes were wonderfully soft and fluffy, just perfect for rolling up around the pickled cabbage. We could easily polish off 11 of them one after the other!

Although I originally wanted to visit a different high school, I eventually chose to attend the Emma Hellenstainer training school for cooking and catering professionals in Brixen/Bressanone. At one of the taster sessions, we were served buttery croissants and all kinds of mouth-watering desserts during the break. I knew instantly that this was the school for me! Plus there were fewer maths lessons than at other schools and no Latin, so I could learn other foreign languages instead. I spent two years studying in Brixen followed by three years at the Kaiserhof hotel management school in Meran/Merano.

After graduating, I flew to Florida with a friend to get my English up to scratch. We ended up working at a golf club. It was like entering a whole new world and I came away with so many wonderful new experiences. I spent the next few years in Austria and Tuscany – it was a very happy, carefree time, despite all the long hours I had to work. Eventually, I made my way back home to Gufidaun to help my parents run our restaurant. But I still didn’t feel ready to settle down. Whenever the restaurant closed its doors for some time during winter, I took off to gain some more experience abroad.

A few years ago, I jetted off around the world again, this time on my own. The trip gave me a lot of time to reflect and one day I came to the realisation that while travelling was amazing, I needed a base and somewhere I could call home. And that home was where it’s always been – the Turmwirt. I was finally ready to lay down roots! PS: In case you’re wondering, our menu still features Kartoffelblattln with sauerkraut – made following the recipe created by our head chef Daniel Trenkwalder.” www.turmwirt-gufidaun.com

Potato pancakes with sauerkraut Serves 4

For the potato pancakes 250 g floury potatoes 2 egg yolks Salt Approx. 125 g flour 2 tablespoons butter, browned

For the sauerkraut 500 g pickled cabbage 1 medium onion 1 clove of garlic 50 ml white wine 200 ml meat or vegetable stock Caraway seeds, bay leaves, juniper berries (optional, to taste)

To make the potato pancakes, boil the potatoes in salted water. Once they are cooked, peel them and then mash or squeeze them through a potato ricer. Leave to cool slightly, then add the remaining ingredients and knead well to form a smooth dough. Add extra flour if necessary. Roll the mixture out, cut into rectangles and place onto a floured baking sheet. Chill in the fridge.

To make the sauerkraut, sweat the onions and garlic in a saucepan. Add the pickled cabbage, pour over the white wine and bring to the boil. Then pour in the stock and season to taste with the caraway seeds, bay leaves and juniper berries.

Fry the potato pancakes in hot oil and serve immediately with the hot sauerkraut.

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LEVIN GRÜTEN (27), AO Restaurant in Brixen/Bressanone “I grew up in Belgium near a small town the size of Brixen. My father was an emergency doctor and worked 24 hours on, 48 hours off. During his days off, he loved nothing more than to cook – and I would watch in awe over his shoulder. That’s how my love affair with cooking began. We lived in a farmhouse restored by my parents, so I was raised among chickens, sheep and home-grown apples, berries, cherries and vegetables. We combined our meat and produce with an array of popular spices from the Arab world and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, as is so common in Belgian cuisine. But whenever we had something to celebrate, we ate out and always chose the same dish: filet américain! This Belgian speciality is considered a real delicacy back home. Think steak tartare, but instead of being served as a patty, it is blended into more of a spread. It’s my favourite childhood memory of food.

When I left school, I decided to embark on a career as a chef.

I completed my training in a traditional French restaurant before heading to Melbourne, where I was hired by a huge bakery which made all the doughnuts, muffins and croissants for McDonald’s in Australia and New Zealand. It was a crazy experience! I would never do anything like that again, but it was fantastic training. After all, being able to bake is a vital skill as a chef. After living in Australia, I didn’t want to return to Belgium with its grey skies and wet, gloomy weather. So instead I ended up in St. Moritz in Switzerland, met my partner Teresa and moved with her to South Tyrol/Südtirol. I’d already fallen in love with the mountains, and it wasn’t long before South Tyrol captured my heart too. I believe that wherever wine is grown, delicious food is never far away. And South Tyrol is a real melting pot of young people who like to travel the world and bring back new, inspirational ideas.

I actually joined their ranks when I was tempted away one last time by the chance to spend a few months working in Noma in Copenhagen. As one of the best restaurants in the world, Noma receives 200 applications a day, so it was an opportunity not to be missed. I wanted to gain experience to help us achieve our vision for Teresa’s family hotel here in Brixen: modern cuisine with a touch of tradition made using good-quality, honest, sustainable ingredients from the region. No oysters or lobsters – just vegetables and meat sourced from small local farms. Nothing beats the taste of meat from an animal which has been grazing freely on pastureland all summer long.

Sometimes my parents come and visit me from Belgium. My father loves the local speck ham and the wine from the Eisacktal valley. And occasionally, we even prepare my favourite childhood dish together using South Tyrolean ingredients and adding thin potato straws and an egg yolk to give it a refined twist. It’s hearty and delicious. And goes perfectly with a glass of Gewürztraminer.” www.byhaller.com

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Filet américain Serves 4 For the mayonnaise 3 egg yolks 1 tablespoon mustard 50 ml white wine vinegar Salt 300 ml sunflower oil

For the filet 600 g steak tartare from local beef 2 tablespoons homemade mayonnaise 1 tablespoon medium hot mustard 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 2 teaspoons paprika powder 2 tablespoons chilli sauce Pepper and sea salt flakes

For the potato straws 3 large waxy potatoes, peeled Salt

Serve with A sprinkling of freshly chopped chives

To prepare the mayonnaise, put the egg yolks, mustard, white wine vinegar and salt into a bowl and mix well. Gradually pour in the oil while continuing to stir the mixture.

To make the filet américain, put all the ingredients into a food processor and blend on high until combined.

To make the potato straws, cut the potatoes into thin, even strips using the julienne technique. Then place them in cold water for ten minutes. Dry the potato strips thoroughly and fry in hot oil at 150°C for around six to seven minutes until they are golden. Place the fried potato straws onto a paper towel to absorb the oil and season with salt.

To serve, spoon the filet américain mix into a round biscuit cutter and smooth it down. Garnish with some freshly cut chives, potato straws and some of the mayonnaise. If you wish, you could also grate some pickled egg yolk on top like we do in our restaurant.

We serve our filet américain in the traditional way with our homemade sourdough baguette. To recreate this authentic taste at home, we recommend that you spread the filet américain on some crusty white bread from your favourite local bakery.

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Buckwheat dumplings with Graukäse cheese and coleslaw Serves 3

3 slightly stale bread rolls or slices of rye bread 50 g leek ½ onion 1 clove of garlic 20 g butter 2 eggs 100 ml milk 50 g buckwheat flour 20 g wheat flour Salt and pepper 100 g Graukäse cheese for the filling Parmesan and butter for melting on top Coleslaw and thin strips of bacon for the garnish

To make the dumplings, cut the bread into small cubes and put in a bowl. Finely chop the leek, onion and garlic, fry in the butter and add to the bread. Whisk together the eggs and milk and pour over the bread mixture. Add the wheat flour and buckwheat flour. Season with salt and pepper and mix together well. Cover the mixture and leave it to rest for 30 minutes. Then shape into small dumplings and place a piece of Graukäse cheese into the centre of each one. Simmer in boiling salted water for 20 minutes.

Serve the dumplings on a bed of coleslaw and garnish with grated parmesan, browned butter and fried strips of bacon.

SIMONE KLAMMER (35), Ahner Berghof in Rodeneck/Rodengo “I grew up down in the valley in the village of Rodeneck. But today, I live high up in the mountains. It’s wonderful! My husband, Armin, has been running our farm since the age of 18 when he took it over from his grandparents. We met when we were young and knew almost straightaway that we were the perfect match. My husband feels completely at home with the animals, while my passion is hospitality. I helped my parents look after guests from a very young age so it’s in my blood. At the Ahner Berghof, Armin and I wanted to combine the best of both worlds by mixing farming with hospitality.

My mother, Maria, still prepares food for guests today at the age of 71. Whenever I say I’m coming to visit, she knows immediately what to make: my favourite childhood meal of buckwheat dumplings filled with Graukäse cheese and served with coleslaw and a glass of milk so fresh it is still warm from the cow. The buckwheat gives the dumplings a slightly bitter flavour and the cheese is very aromatic and bold. It’s a typically South Tyrolean dish and is something of an acquired taste. You either like it or you don’t – and I love it!

The dumplings have such a special place in my heart that they even feature on our restaurant’s menu. I add fried strips of bacon to complement the flavours. We make our own bacon, after all! We have 35 cows and 10 pigs and also produce our own salami and smoked dry sausages known as Kaminwurzen. We make everything ourselves – from our pasta and traditional ravioli to all our dumplings, of course. Luckily for me, my two older children, Mara and Jonas, also enjoy eating my favourite dish. Both here at home – and at their Grandma’s.” www.ahner-berghof.com

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A few years ago, some of the tunnels at Villanders mine were restored and opened to the public.

A REGION RICH IN STONE Over thousands of years, the Eisack river carved a gorge into the landscape, uncovering an impressive array of underground treasures in the process. Here’s a beginner’s guide

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❶ Brixen granite Brixen granite is the local stone of the Eisacktal valley. The word granite comes from the Latin granum for grain and refers to the coarse-grained structure of this crystalline rock. Brixen granite is found in and around Brixen/Bressanone, Franzensfeste/Fortezza, Mühlbach/Rio di Pusteria and Schalders/Scaleres. It was first excavated in large quantities during the construction of the Brenner railway line near Franzensfeste. Thanks to its excellent durability, Brixen granite is very versatile. Its use in window sills, fountains, stairways, masonry and gravestones throughout South Tyrol is testament to the important role it has long played in the region’s culture and history. The tower of the St Sebastian parish church in Sarns/ Sarnes is just one example of where it can be found. ❷ Teis spheres A Teis sphere looks quite unremarkable from the outside, but look inside and you’ll be amazed by the colourful crystals hiding there. It is easy to see why these glittering geodes are among South Tyrol’s most beautiful treasures. Sparkling like a firework, the vibrant stones contain up to seven different minerals. Teis spheres are named after where they are found – the small village of Teis/Tiso at the gateway to the Villnösstal valley. The village’s Mineral Museum showcases many examples of these wonderful marvels of nature. www.mineralienmuseum-teis.it

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❸ Pfunders serpentine Known by locals as the “Pfundra Stoan”, Pfunders serpentine is found on the Gaiskofel in the Pfunderer Tal valley. Serpentine is a metamorphic rock, which means that it formed under high pressure or temperatures. Also called “green marble” due to its colour, Pfunders serpentine is acid-resistant and very durable.

❹ Klausenite Klausenite is a fine-grained diorite found inside Brixen quartz phyllite. It is named after Klausen/Chiusa, the town around which it is predominantly found, and is particularly abundant on Säben Mountain. Klausenite has also been found and extracted from the mine in Villanders/Villandro. The rock mainly consists of galena and sphalerite. ❺ Hexenstein A place to dance with the devil or the venue for a fertility ritual? The Hexenstein or Witch’s Stone, which is a short walk from the centre of the village of Terenten/Terento, is the subject of many myths and legends. Some claim that, together with a nearby spring, the stone was used as part of a fertility ritual. Older generations of herdspeople, meanwhile, believe that witches once held drunken revelries around the stone. At the summer solstice, the devil was said to have met the witches here to dance. And it was during these dances that the mysterious markings still visible on the Hexenstein today were allegedly formed.

Villanders mine Once the most important mining centre in Tyrol, Villanders mine (Bergwerk Villanders) consists of around 20 kilometres of tunnels.

The majority of the tunnels, which plunge to depths of roughly 750 metres, were dug by hand. In fact, only around one-third were dug with the help of gunpowder. When it was closed in the 20th century, the mine faded into oblivion. But a few years ago, it was given a new lease of life when some of the tunnels were restored and opened to the public. Visitors can now take exciting interactive tours through the mine from April to November. www.bergwerk.it

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Peter Senoner Small Space, Great Art

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Portraits

From the conceptual and the colossal to the empathetic, the art scene in the Eisacktal valley is livelier than ever, with ambitions well beyond South Tyrol. We visit three art studios and discover how the region’s art is full of variety and surprises

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This anchor chain made from glass is beautifully fragile.

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Smiths, locksmiths and glassblowers.

AliPaloma’s pieces are produced in the workshops of her close circle of craftspeople.

Bottom right: AliPaloma also makes miniature wax mountains.

Conceptual art AliPaloma With its cobbled streets, picturesque old buildings and numerous art studios, Stufels/Stufles is a district with a unique aura to it. Known as the oldest quarter of Brixen/Bressanone, it is also home to conceptual artist AliPaloma. “I love Stufels. It’s part of who I am,” she says. The Brixen-born artist is based in a co-working office in a former butcher’s shop, which over the years has also served as a fruit shop, pasta shop and internet café. She designs her artwork on a computer. “I choose

my topic and then decide what material and medium would suit it best,” explains AliPaloma, whose full name is Alexandra Paloma Angerer.

The 28-year-old is currently exploring pressing social and political issues, such as climate change and the fragility of the risk society, and has depicted these themes through miniature wax mountains and fragile anchor chains made from glass. Her pieces are produced in the workshops of her close circle of smiths, locksmiths and glassblowers. “I like to work with craftspeople. There are some really multi-talented geniuses among them, who put their all into finding a solution no matter how experimental my design.”

AliPaloma is very enthusiastic in her appraisal of the local art scene: “I have so many opportunities here.

If I worked in a big city, there would probably be lots of other people like me.” Despite its relatively small size, she believes that South Tyrol/Südtirol offers some fantastic places for artists to showcase their work. Examples include Brixen art gallery and the fortress in Franzensfeste/Fortezza, where in summer 2021 AliPaloma – who also has a degree in architecture – presented an art installation made from crystal glass bricks and staged her own video performance.

“The fortress was built using 20 million bricks, which are an expression of oppressive, patriarchal power,” she says, explaining how she wanted to highlight this theme with her 250-kilogram glass wall installation.

“Towards the end of the exhibition, I decided that I couldn’t just remove the wall quietly, so I filmed myself knocking it down. It was very emotional.”

AliPaloma also loves the nature and countryside near her home town and spends a lot of her free time exercising in the great outdoors. “I slip into a role to play AliPaloma. People seem almost disappointed when they discover how normal I am in my private life.” Sometimes she is surprised by the clichéd, romanticised notion that artists can only ever work in a fit of frenzy. “My everyday working life is actually full of admin tasks, research, thinking through ideas and carting things about.” www.alipaloma.com

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Towering a colossal ten metres into the sky on the slopes above Klausen/Chiusa stands COR circus – a bronze statue gazing across the Eisacktal valley from atop a bright pink steel frame. Drive north on the motorway and it is simply impossible to miss! The statue was created by Peter Senoner, a sculptor and artist with a penchant for huge sculptural installations with a spatial, almost architectural, quality. On stepping into his large studio above COR circus, however, it becomes clear that the 51-year-old has also recently been focusing on his drawings, in particular the interplay between different materials in performative settings.

The large-format androgynous portraits and artificial landscapes which he created in 2021 during the Transart contemporary art festival in the terraXcube at the NOI Techpark in Bolzano/Bozen are great examples of this. During the festival, Peter swapped his studio for a climatic chamber, where he worked in temperatures as low as -35 degrees as well as in simulated wind and snow storms and in conditions you would expect at 4,500 metres above sea level. Visitors could watch Peter as he worked on his ARTARCTIC series in this inhospitable environment, creating art using graphite and pigments on specially prepared wooden panels.

A video of him at work was also streamed to a gallery in Tokyo. “I had no idea how these conditions would affect my creativity and working methods. I kept having to break up sheets of ice. It was an incredible experience.”

Colossal art Peter Senoner

For 25 years, Peter has been using his art to explore how humans co-exist with technology and science.

His work has been heavily influenced by several years spent working in Germany, the USA and Japan. Today, he ships his sculptures to exhibitions in an equally diverse list of destinations, including Munich, Milan and Los Angeles, counting on the support of freelancers to get everything ready in time. “I focus on multiple pieces and projects at a time. I’m also regularly invited to work as a guest lecturer, such as at the Institute for Experimental Architecture in Innsbruck, the Faculty of Design and Art in Bolzano or more recently TH Rosenheim university. This means that I travel around a lot,” he says, opening the door into his second studio room. After years of commuting, he decided to set himself up here permanently so he could focus more intently on his work and plan his trips abroad more carefully.

“This part of my studio is dedicated solely to my sculpture work,” says Peter, pointing at a raw block of wood. He will use this to craft figures with features such as headsets, using organic shapes which merge seamlessly into each other. By the time the process is complete, the original wood will be utterly unrecognisable. The completed wooden piece will then serve as a template for the cast for the final bronze sculpture, which will be glossed, patinated or mirror glossed.

Next to the wooden block are a few casts with a roughly sculpted body and mask-like faces as smooth as glass. Depending on the angle and lighting, they look either fascinating or disturbing.

Outside of his work, Peter is a mountain sports enthusiast who loves to spend time in South Tyrol’s diverse natural landscape. How does he find living in the countryside? “The internet has changed everything.

You can stay intellectually connected with the world even from a remote mountain village,” he says, adding that collectors and curators love visiting him here: “They are always pleasantly surprised by how varied the culture, landscape and food are here in South Tyrol. After they visit my studio, I like to take them to the village inn to give them an even better flavour of what we’re all about.” www.petersenoner.com

Left: In his workshop, Peter Senoner creates androgynous portraits and artificial landscapes.

Right: COR circus towers ten metres into the sky on the slopes above Klausen.

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Right: Layers, smudges and marks. Astrid Gamper creates her figures by producing several drawings, tearing them up and piecing them back together again.

Bottom: Astrid’s small studio looks out onto the old town of Klausen and all the way up to Säben Abbey.

Empathetic art Astrid Gamper

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Astrid’s empathetic depictions of the human body place a particular focus on female nudes.

Astrid Gamper enjoys a spectacular view of the Eisack river and Säben Abbey from her small studio in the gatehouse of the Griesbruck manor house in Klausen.

Looking back across the river at the manor house’s historic walls, it is possible to draw some subtle similarities between them and the 50-year-old artist’s work. “Can you see the weather-worn frescoes and markings up there on my tower? The history of this place and the years gone by are interwoven in these walls,” she says. For Astrid, it is important to reflect the passage of time in her art. She expresses her ideas using the human body, with a particular focus on female nudes. Having studied posture and shape from the perspective of fashion, she has a very unique way of looking at the body. In her large-format drawings, she creates empathetic depictions of the sensitivity and vulnerability of life.

Astrid draws her female figures on white paper using a black graphite pencil and a myriad shades of grey. Each of the pieces she creates is a combination of several drawings which she tears up and pieces back together again to allow a unique figure to form.

She pulls apart the layers as if the figures are shedding their skin and this process – together with the visible rips, smudges and marks – represents wounds and transformation. “I’m fascinated by the traces which life leaves behind on our bodies and in our souls over the years,” Astrid says. The more time that passes, the more traces there are. When asked if she finds it difficult to tear up her old drawings, she laughs. “Of course it is. It feels destructive, but it is the basis for a successful transformation. And that’s exactly what I’m interested in. Our experiences shape us throughout our lives and cause our personalities and identities to develop. This metamorphosis is reflected in my drawings.” Astrid is particularly fascinated by people’s search for a source of inner strength. Her figures appear delicate and vulnerable, yet also at peace in their harmoniousness. It is from their tenderness that they draw their strength.

In 2021, her most recent major work, a floor-toceiling paper cocoon, won the Lorenzo il Magnifico art award in the Installation Art category in Florence.

While the cocoon is falling, the figures drawn onto the paper fall apart. The image of a baby can be seen on the floor, drawn on some of the pieces of paper peeling away from the cocoon. “I try to put myself in other people’s shoes and to be sensitive. I have an empathetic view of the world,” says Astrid, giving an example: “Whenever I draw a baby, I intuitively ask myself how we’re treating our world and what we’re leaving behind for our children.”

And what does she think about the art scene in the Eisacktal valley? “I’m happy to be contributing to Klausen’s art and culture. All the projects, big and small, being undertaken here will help secure the town’s future as a place where art can flourish.” As a long-standing member of the Klausen Association of Cultural Treasures and Monuments and as head of Klausen’s Education Committee, Astrid is heavily involved in protecting the town’s cultural heritage and is a driving force behind many educational initiatives.

“I feel a strong connection with my hometown of Klausen. My creativity may come from within, but I am completely in tune with the outside world.” www.astridgamper.com

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Steep Slopes We pay a visit to the family-run Kuenhof winery, where the first generation has helped shape the history of wine-growing in the Eisacktal valley and the second is now looking to the future T e x t — L E N Z K O P P E L S T Ä T T E R P h o t o s — A N D R E A S T A U B E R

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Simon Pliger stands surrounded by a sea of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner grapevines and stares up at the cloudless late autumn sky. In the east, the Geisler peaks can be seen towering above the forested mountain ridges, while to the west, dozens of Alpine chough circle above him. “I need to keep an eye on them,” says Simon, removing an overripe grape, popping it into his mouth and nodding happily. “If that flock of birds discovers that our vines are still laden with delicious fruit, they’ll swoop right down and devour it. Then all our hard work will have been for nothing.”

Together with his parents, Peter and Brigitte, the 28-year-old tends the vines on the family’s estate, which is located to the south of Brixen/Bressanone and once belonged to the local bishop back in the 12th century. Sylvaner, Grüner Veltliner, Gewürztraminer and – unusually for the Eisacktal valley – Riesling are all grown here on the dizzyingly high, steep slopes.

The estate covers roughly six hectares, and the soil is a mix of loamy sand, detritus, quartz phyllite and soft slate with plenty of minerals and salts. The grapes are grown at altitudes of up to 890 metres above sea level and the family produce around 40,000 bottles every year in a cellar equipped with stainless steel tanks and large wooden acacia barrels. The Pliger family try to do everything as nature

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intended and do not use any herbicides.

“Growing healthy vines is very important to us,” says Simon.

When Simon’s father, Peter, first started growing wine as a complete novice, he transformed the estate’s steep slopes from a tangle of undergrowth into a terraced vineyard with thousands of square metres of drystone walls. At the time, some people questioned whether it was worth re-establishing the grapevines in such a steep location. But he persevered with his mantra of quality over quantity. And he even started to grow Riesling. Brigitte believed in her husband and has always been a pillar of support to both father and son at the winery.

In 1999, the Kuenhof ’s “Kaiton” Riesling was awarded “tre bicchieri” or “three glasses” by renowned Italian wine, travel and food magazine Gambero Rosso, which is the highest accolade it bestows. It was the first wine from the Eisacktal valley to ever receive this coveted honour and the critics were stunned. The “Kaiton” has powerful, fresh flavours, which are characteristic of wine produced on steep slopes where temperatures fluctuate considerably. It reveals a delightful salinity, which is a reflection of the soil in which the grapes were grown.

Simon balances on the garden wall in front of his family’s farmhouse. Lemons, potatoes, basil, carrots, courgettes, raspberries, fennel and radicchio can all be found growing here. “We hardly ever have to go to the supermarket,” he says. He then explains how he got to where he is today: “My father is a carpenter by trade.

I always thought I had to follow in his footsteps by learning a trade too, so I trained as an electrician.”

But he soon realised this wasn’t for him. And since his father was no longer a carpenter and had made a name for himself as a winegrower instead, Simon decided to move to the northeast of Baden-Württemberg in Germany to study at a wine school in Weinsberg and gain some experience at the Weingut Heinrich winery. Today, the two work side by side, tending the vines and crafting their wines: the father, who took a chance and got the business off the ground, and the son, who is now looking to take it in an exciting new direction.

Several bottles of sparkling wine ferment in the cellar, while the late-harvest grapes can still be seen hanging on some of the vines. They will be used to make a sweet Riesling and a rare, sweet Veltliner.

A smart wooden and glass extension has also recently been built alongside the centuries-old farmhouse to accommodate a new tasting hall. It’s the perfect blend of modernity and tradition. “I installed the lighting myself,” says Simon, his electrician training evidently still coming into good use. He takes one final look up at the sky. The flock of alpine choughs has moved on.

Wine from the Eisacktal valley has huge potential. What do you think the future holds?

A key benefit of our wine region is that we can grow grapes at extremely high altitudes of up to 1,000 metres above sea level. Grapes which thrive in high locations ripen more slowly, giving them a very intense array of aromas. Here in the Eisacktal valley, the challenges presented by climate change are forcing us to innovate and modify how we approach our work. In the future, we will need hardier grape varieties which can better withstand the conditions.

Hannes Munter Born in 1982, Hannes Munter from the Kellerei Eisacktal winery is one of the youngest winemakers in South Tyrol.

www.kuenhof.com

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The Ywain frescoes at Rodenegg Castle Date: between 1200 and 1230 Technique: fresco painting Artist: unknown

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Ywain Kills Askalon n this painting at Rodenegg Castle, we see Ywain charging forward on his reddish-brown horse and fatally wounding his opponent Askalon by splitting his shield and helmet with a stroke of his sword.

The scene focuses solely on the two combatants – unlike the other ten paintings adorning the room, there are no trees or decorative or architectural elements to draw the eye elsewhere. The painting forms part of the Ywain series of frescoes.

Thought to date back to the early 13th century, they are among the oldest secular wall paintings in the German-speaking world.

When the frescoes were uncovered in 1972, three spurts of blood could be seen coming from Askalon’s helmet.

But just one year later, they had almost disappeared from view. Why? The mystery

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was only solved years later when it was discovered that the red was produced using lead oxide and vermilion (a bright red mercury sulphide pigment), which faded after coming into contact with air and light. Today, only one of the three spurts of blood is still visible.

The series of frescoes depicting courtly life and the age of chivalry is very loosely based on the epic poem Iwein

by Hartmann von Aue. Painted by an unknown artist, the 11 scenes tell the story of Ywain, a knight who sets out to find happiness through aventiure (adventure) and minne (love). He becomes embroiled in a knightly duel with Askalon, kills him and falls in love with his grieving widow, Laudinia.

Rodenegg Castle + Situated on a rocky outcrop at the entrance of Pustertal valley, Rodenegg Castle was constructed in the first half of the 12th century by Friedrich I von Rodank. The room containing the Ywain frescoes is one of the castle’s top attractions and can be found on the second floor of a tower-like part of the building in the inner part of the castle. + Schlossweg 1/ Via Villa 1, 39037 Rodeneck/Rodengo +39 (0)472 454 044 + Open during the summer months. More info: www.rodenegg.it

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I n t e r v i e w — L E N Z K O P P E L S T Ä T T E R P h o t o s — M I C H A E L P E Z Z E I

Life in the Fast Lane We hit the slopes with Linda Stricker, the grande dame of the ski rental world, to talk about how she is keeping her legendary husband’s legacy alive, skiing past and present, bizarre inventions, happy memories, cruel twists of fate and skiing with a baby bump

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Lenz Koppelstätter uses the gondola ride to coax a few more anecdotes out of Linda Stricker about her eventful life.

“Back then, skiers were real personalities – just like the big boy bands of the day.”

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he snow on the sun-drenched Plose mountain is glistening under a cloudless sky as Linda Stricker bursts into view. “I always look forward to meetings like this,” she says radiantly. “They’re a great excuse to go skiing again.” She knows the Plose like the back of her hand. Her late husband, South Tyrolean ski legend Erwin Stricker, got his career off to a flying start here when he won the famous Stadtlrennen race in his youth. “I take it easy these days,” says Linda, a former ski racer herself. And then, of course, she sets off, as elegantly as ever and so quickly that it proves hard to keep up. We begin our chat as we ascend the mountain in the ski lift, the majestic Dolomites in full view, and continue it over a lunch of juicy ribs in the Pfannspitzhütte lodge. As we talk, it’s hard to imagine a more beautiful or fitting setting.

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Linda, you were born in the Netherlands and spent most of your childhood there. I did some research and discovered that the highest point in your home country is the Vaalserberg at 322.5 metres above sea level. How on earth did you get into skiing?

Linda Stricker: I was born in Amsterdam, the third of four children. Our father was a pilot and was crazy about sport – tennis, rowing and especially hockey. He played for the Dutch national hockey team 62 times and competed in two Olympics, winning silver and bronze. He was around 30 when he discovered skiing, and it soon became a shared family pursuit. At least once a year, we drove the 900 kilometres from Amsterdam to

Gargellen in Vorarlberg, Austria – all crammed into our VW Beetle, the older children on the back bench and the younger ones in the boot. Later, when my father flew for Swissair, we moved to Lake Zurich. That was when I really caught the skiing bug. At some point, the ski instructor in Gargellen noticed that I wasn’t completely hopeless and let me train with the local children. Before long, I was competing in races and won the Dutch youth championships. And then, eventually, I took part in the Lowland Championships...

The what…?

The Lowland Championships! We Dutch skiers were up against the Belgians, Brits and Danes. I won and shortly afterwards competed in the Europa Cup and World Cup. What was your greatest racing achievement?

That’s hardly worth mentioning! At the World Championships in St. Moritz in 1974, I came 11th in the combined event and 20th in the slalom. And I was voted most beautiful skier at the tournament! I wasn’t a star, but it was an unforgettable time of my life.

Why? Back then, the true star skiers attracted attention far beyond the skiing circuit.

The world stood still when they took to the slopes. People held their breath as they listened to the races unfold on the radio or stood glued to TV screens in electrical stores. Fans went crazy, just like they did for the big boy bands of the day. Or the

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1990s supermodels like Naomi Campbell or Claudia Schiffer. Things are very different today. If you asked the average person on the street what models or skiers they knew, they’d probably only be able to name one or two at most. Back then, skiers were real personalities. Today, they’re all heavily guarded. Everything is highly regimented and teams are shielded from the world. Nobody gets a look in anymore.

Erwin Stricker was one of those stars and a daredevil. Together with the likes of Piero Gros and Gustav Thöni, he was part of the legendary Italian team known as the “Valanga Azzurra” or “Blue Avalanche”. How did you meet?

It was at a Europa Cup final in Mayrhofen in Austria. I happened to be staying in the same hotel as the Italian men’s team. I still remember it so clearly. I was sitting on a swing in the park when he came up to me with his blonde curly hair and said, “I’m going to marry you!” I was gobsmacked.

I thought he was crazy! But three years later, we were standing at the altar.

Pros from the women’s and men’s teams rarely got to mix during the season. While one team was training

“I was already pregnant when I competed in my last race. I skied rather more gingerly than usual.”

in Austria, the other would be in the USA. Did you have to spend a lot of time apart?

Oh no, we were joined at the hip. Erwin made sure of it. He was a wily fox and arranged for me to train with the Italian men’s team.

He took his ski racer girlfriend to training? Surely that was against the rules?

Of course it was. But he concocted a story based around the fact that my grandfather was from Suriname and my grandmother from Indonesia. He told the people in charge that we were already married.

When the race director asked to see our

marriage certificate, he explained that our wedding took place in accordance with a South American-Southeast Asian custom and there was no certificate. It was hilarious! The team soon welcomed me with open arms.

When did you stop racing?

The World Championships in Garmisch-Partenkirchen in 1978. I was already pregnant so our son, Tim, raced with me! I have to admit that I skied rather more gingerly than usual.

But your husband carried on?

Yes, but only for another year. He was

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The Plose, Brixen’s local mountain, holds a special place in Linda Stricker’s heart. Her favourite slope is, of course, the Crazy Horse, which was named in honour of her late husband.

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Erwin Stricker was fearless – both on and off the slopes – and broke virtually every bone in his body.

already working for Ellesse – the leading sports brand at the time – and his focus lay more with that than with racing. He was bursting with ideas about what he wanted to do next. Plus, he was picking up so many injuries that I was spending more time with him in hospital than watching him on the slopes. He was fearless – both on and off the slopes – and had broken virtually every bone in his body. I quickly learnt that with Erwin it was best to keep calm whatever the situation. One time he rang me in the middle of the night after overturning his jeep. As soon as he said “Linda, I’ve...,” I didn’t need to hear anything else and just asked him which hospital I had to go to.

What made you come to South Tyrol?

When Erwin retired from skiing, we initially decided to move in with his mother in Brixen/Bressanone. It was difficult, to say the least. Before meeting me, Erwin had been dating a South Tyrolean from the Vinschgau valley. Her father owned a world champion bull...

A what now?

A bull which had won gold at some kind of world championship for bulls. It had the most splendid horns or was the strongest or something! In any case, my mother-inlaw was apparently deeply impressed by this. And then this Dutch woman came along... I just couldn’t get her to warm to me. So we moved out to Meran/Merano when our daughter, Nina, was born.

Despite that shaky start, you’re still here in the Eisacktal valley – in Brixen and on the Plose. Why? It’s just so beautiful here! Nothing can beat the view you get of the town as you ski down the Plose.

Your mother-in-law aside, how did you find us South Tyroleans at first?

Let me be frank. As a seafaring nation, the Netherlands is full of liberal-minded people who love to explore the world. The South Tyroleans are more conservative, having hidden behind their mountains for generations. It took me a while to learn to appreciate their qualities – their shy yet genuine willingness to help and their sincerity. Plus, South Tyrol has changed a lot and become much more open over the last few decades. I love living here these days.

What about your husband? Was he a typical South Tyrolean?

Sometimes. For instance, he always said that, as his wife, I didn’t have to work.

But I wanted to! There was no way I could just sit around the playground with other mothers chatting about nappies. One of my friends ran a pub and gave me a job waitressing. But that didn’t suit my jealous, headstrong husband at all. It was like a slap in the face for him, and meant he spent every evening sat at the bar, drinking a beer and brooding over his next move. Then one day, he suggested I take over his position as Ellesse’s sales representative for South Tyrol. He, meanwhile, turned his attention to launching the Rent and Go quality ski rental group.

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Erwin Stricker, Born in 1950, Erwin Stricker was a ski racer who competed for the Italian national team.

He raced in all disciplines, took part in the World Championships, competed in the Winter Olympics in Sapporo in 1972 and Innsbruck in 1976, was Italian champion twice and enjoyed two podium finishes at the Ski World Cup. Together with the likes of Piero Gros and Gustav Thöni, he was one of the biggest daredevils in the legendary Italian team known as the “Valanga Azzurra” or “Blue Avalanche”. He retired from competitive skiing in 1979 and became an entrepreneur and winter sports consultant.

Even during his skiing career, his pioneering inventions contributed to numerous developments in winter sport, winter tourism and cycling.

Before his death from a brain tumour in hospital in Bolzano/ Bozen on 28 September 2010, he was involved in setting up a ski resort in China.

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Linda Stricker, née Esser, was born in the Netherlands in 1953 and spent part of her childhood in the Caribbean and Zurich.

She discovered skiing on family holidays to the Alps at an early age and went on to compete in the Ski World Cup and World Championships.

She married Erwin Stricker in 1977. She lives in South Tyrol and since her husband’s death has been managing Rent and Go, which has 70 ski rental shops across Italy, as well as Sportservice Erwin Stricker, which runs 7 ski rental shops, 12 bike rental shops and 3 sports shops in South Tyrol.

“It’s just so beautiful on the Plose! Nothing can beat the view you get of the town as you ski here.”

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Your father?

Yes, my father fell to his death skiing in deep snow. He crashed head first into an avalanche barrier hidden under the snow.

He was just 60 years old.

That’s terrible. Your husband also passed away at 60.

Yes, they were both far too young.

Did the two of you have anything in common or were you complete opposites?

He was such a force of nature and could easily inspire people and rally them around him. I think I’ve inherited more of my grandmother’s Asian values, as I’m far more calm and collected. In that respect, we were chalk and cheese. It meant we fought a lot, but we always made up with each other very quickly again. Funnily enough, Erwin and my grandmother hit it off straightaway…

Tell me more!

I can still remember it like it was yesterday. We’d gone to Amsterdam so they could meet. When she greeted him at the top of the steep stairs so characteristic of Dutch houses, she pinched his upper arm and said, “Are you rich?” And then, after he had stood there in stunned silence for a few seconds, she added, “It doesn’t matter, but it would be nice.” From then on, they talked on the phone constantly.

She taught him Dutch and he taught her the South Tyrolean dialect.

Your husband was also an inventor.

Yes, his mind never stopped whirring. He used to love sticking his hand out of the car window and watching in fascination at how it cut through the air when he held it out flat.

He invented the curved ski pole and was one of the first people to use a snow gun...

That’s right. He always trained in Vintl/ Vandoies, where there was a small ski lift up to a short, but perfect slope. It had no direct sunlight, so when there was no natural snow on the ground, it was the ideal location for artificial snow. He ordered a machine from a company called

How did you cope after your husband’s untimely death?

At first, I was angry. Livid, in fact. At him!

I said, “You can’t leave me! Not yet!” He died as he lived – with a bang. He first felt unwell when he was in China helping to set up a ski resort. On returning, he went straight to meet the South Tyrolean governor to discuss another project, and it was only after that that he was finally diagnosed with a brain tumour.

Erwin Stricker was an inventor. He invented the curved ski pole, vulture beak ski tips, knee pads fitted into ski trousers and aerodynamic racing suits and helmets.

Linde and became the first to use a snow gun on South Tyrolean soil. Everyone said, “That’s it, he’s finally gone mad!” But he could train while everyone else sat around hoping for snowy weather.

What else did he invent?

His vulture beak ski tips! He always took the most aggressive, tightest lines possible so would often straddle a gate. He came up with this idea to bend the tips of his skis by a few centimetres so he could get a few centimetres closer to the gate.

He also invented the knee pads fitted into ski trousers. And the legendary plastic suits. What a sight they were! Word soon spread that they were the reason the Italians could ski so much faster standing upright than the Austrians could in a crouching position. But the suits were soon banned for being too dangerous.

Undeterred, Erwin kept tinkering and soon designed a leather racing suit for both of us. Another of his inventions was an aerodynamic helmet, which almost saw him suffer the same fate as my father and break his neck.

What happened next?

He had two operations, but when I saw him lying in hospital after that, I knew it was over. He’d always naturally been as strong as an ox and never had to do any strength training. He practically brought people to their knees when giving them a friendly handshake! But now he was a shadow of his former self.

What did you do next?

I quickly decided to jump in at the deep end and take over his businesses. I couldn’t exactly leave his employees in the lurch. We’ve expanded over the past ten years. Rent and Go now has 70 franchises across Italy, while Sportservice Erwin Stricker runs 7 ski rental shops, 12 bike rental shops and 3 sports shops in South Tyrol.

We’re sitting in a gondola on our way to the top of the Crazy Horse black run, which is named in honour of your husband. What does this place mean to you?

I love this descent. It’s a metaphor for our life together – steep, fast, and full of twists and turns. I think of him whenever I ski down it.

“He died as he lived – with a bang.”

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Beautiful Things Products from the region

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❷ What an elegant pair

❸ “Another coffee, please!”

A practical kitchen accessory with a graceful, minimalistic design – Fillmill salt and pepper grinders are individually carved using traditional local methods of craftsmanship, from wood sourced exclusively from the South Tyrolean village of Lajen/Laion. With a slightly different wood grain and colour, each piece is unique, but what they all have in common is the high-precision ceramic mill mechanism. Available as a set online for 199 euros.

Made from fair trade arabica and robusta coffee beans roasted gently and slowly to release an aromatic flavour, NOAH coffee by the AH Bräu brewery and roaster in Franzensfeste/Fortezza is a true delight. The name was inspired by the phrase “No a Kaffeele!” or “Another coffee, please!”, which is often heard in cafés and bars across South Tyrol. A 250 g pack can be purchased directly from AH Bräu, with prices starting from 8 euros.

www.selbergmocht.it

www.sachsenklemme.it

③ ❶ Eyecatching prints The prints produced by the KR Studio printing lab are unique pieces inspired by the local landscape and everyday life in the small town of Klausen/Chiusa.

For example, the growing local heron population provided the inspiration for a series of T-shirts and pencil cases made from fair trade textiles. The pencil case can be purchased from the shop for 30 euros (address: Leitach 18, Klausen). www.instagram.com/klausen. printing.lab/

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❹ Fine marble With his decorative Kalmo wall elements, Joachim Rabanser from Ried/Novale near Lajen combines high-quality materials with innovative technology and a deep passion for natural stone. Crafted from a range of different marbles, each of his elegant pieces is one of a kind. Their soft, clear lines take away some of marble’s usual heaviness, casting the stone in a beautiful new light. Prices on request. www.kalmo-marble.com

⑥ ④ ⑤ ❺ Cherry-inspired art

❻ Locally sourced

Kirschmund, a hand-carved linden wood relief painted in acrylics by artist Erich Perathoner, is just one of the many contemporary and antique artworks on sale at the Kompatscher art gallery in Brixen’s old town. The gallery displays works from local and Italian artists. Its collection is a joy to explore. Kirschmund is on sale for 1,220 euros.

From soda and tonic water to ginger ale and ginger beer, Alpex drinks can be enjoyed just as they are or used as a mixer to create delicious cocktails. They are made using pure spring water from the longstanding mineral water company Plose in Brixen/ Bressanone, whose experience is poured into every drop. The 200 ml bottles are available in six flavours and can be purchased from drinks retailers across the region.

www.kompatscher.eu

www.alpexdrinks.com

❼ Autumn treat Oliver Gasser is an adventurous pastry chef from Lüsen/Luson and the 2021 winner of a German TV competition for professional bakers. He is also the creator of the Eisacktal valley’s original chestnut tart. Made from regionally sourced whole chestnuts as well as eggs, honey, butter, milk and cream from South Tyrolean farmers, the tart comes packaged in a decorative box and is available every autumn from all Gasser bakeries for 15.90 euros. www.baeckerei-gasser.it

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stronghold made from stone and a symbol of war built to protect the region’s thoroughfares and stop the land between the mountains from falling into enemy hands. Today, the fortress is a historic monument used to host events and art exhibitions – a place steeped in history with plenty of stories to tell.

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Construction and purpose Work on the fortress complex you see today began in 1833 under Francis I, Emperor of Austria.

With Tyrol seen as an important axis between Southern Germany and Northern Italy, the objective was to protect the thoroughfares and crossing points between the Inn and Po rivers. Franzensfeste fortress was opened by Emperor Ferdinand I just five years later in 1838.

As large as nine football pitches Franzensfeste fortress covers an enormous 65,000 square metres, making it the largest historical site in South Tyrol. In addition to some 20 million bricks and 250,000 cubic metres of granite, many tonnes of wood, sand and lime were needed to construct the fortress, which meant that hundreds of cartloads of materials were delivered every day.

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At the time, it was the largest construction site in Europe, employing 3,500 to 5,000 men from across the Habsburg Empire. To put this in perspective, Brixen/ Bressanone had just around 3,000 inhabitants back then.

A small fortune The fortress cost almost three million guldens. In modern money, that equates to around 55 million euros, although the actual construction costs would be much higher today. During the opening ceremony, Emperor Ferdinand I – who likely had no idea about the sheer scale of the project – allegedly asked whether Franzensfeste was made from silver.

Art and exhibitions Now sensitively restored, the well-preserved fortress has been open to the public since 2005, and in 2008 it played host to the Manifesta 7 art biennale. Since then, a wide range of temporary exhibitions and events have been housed inside its historic walls, bringing the place to life with everything from local art to orchestral music. Since 2015, the fortress has also been home to a permanent exhibition on the Brenner Base Tunnel.

A masterpiece of planning Franzensfeste is one of the final generations of above-ground fortresses to have ever been built. Carefully adapted to the terrain, meticulously laid out and equipped with fire fronts, shellproof gun emplacements, entry points with several levels of security, accommodation and material stores, it is a showpiece of Austrian military architecture.

Military use By the time it was completed, Franzensfeste fortress no longer held any strategic importance.

Artillery was never installed here as originally planned and cannons were only placed behind the fortress’s defensive walls during the wars of 1848, 1859 and 1866. The rest of the time, the complex was guarded by a regular garrison of just 70 men.

Companies were occasionally billeted to the fortress, but only ever temporarily while awaiting deployment to the south. More recently, the Italian military used Franzensfeste to store weapons and ammunition, before finally vacating the complex in 2003.

Chapel The chapel built in Franzensfeste’s courtyard in 1844 was one of the first neo-Gothic buildings to be constructed in Tyrol. Mass was held here for the soldiers guarding the fortress. Since its restoration in 2009, the chapel has been dedicated to John the Baptist, the patron saint of stonemasons, and Saint Barbara, the patron saint of miners, artillery crew and armourers.

Railway lines Following the completion of the Brenner railway line between Bolzano/Bozen and Innsbruck, a railway line was constructed through the Pustertal valley in 1871. At the military’s request, the tracks ran through the middle of the fortress so that the passing trains could be searched for enemy passengers.

127.5 tonnes of gold

Reservoir

In 1943, in the midst of the Second World War, the German military administration stored Italian monetary gold in a rock formation at Franzensfeste. Between then and its surrender, the Nazi regime transported much of this gold to Germany. In 1944, the Americans secured the gold still stored in the rock and returned it to Rome. After the war ended, the remaining 100 tonnes of gold were gradually tracked down at various locations across Germany, Austria and Switzerland.

In 1939, Italy’s fascist government ordered the construction of a reservoir at the foot of the fortress to help meet the increasing demand for energy. The construction work required the hamlet of Unterau/Prà di Sotto to be submerged, along with part of the fortress. The reservoir is roughly 23 hectares big and up to 59 metres deep, and is bordered by an approximately 65-metre-high dam. The electricity generated by the reservoir was originally used to power the Brenner railway line.

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A Beginner’s Guide to South Tyrol PART 4:

Bringing up baby, Alpine style

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I used to call it the Walk of Shame. You’re maybe hen our kids were young, 600 meters from the trailhead. You have that dogged every Saturday morning look on your reddened face as you trudge up the hill, we used to spread one trying to pretend that there’s not a screaming threeof those old-fashioned year-old firmly affixed to your lower leg. You know very topographical maps of well that you can’t make it more than a dozen meters South Tyrol out on the like this. She knows, by some perverse instinct, that table. The kids would going limp makes her all the heavier. And you both point at a random spot, know that her capacity to scream her head off will outand off we’d go. Never last your capacity to tolerate her screaming. Parents of did any one of those destinations, chosen by the jamhappy Mini Me hikers stream past, trying not to watch. sticky finger of fate, turn out to be anything less than Trying not to be amused. Trying not to judge. The local spectacular. kids, meanwhile, just seem totally confused by the very Loyal readers of my column will recall, howconcept of refusing to hike with Mommy and Daddy. ever, that the world is divided into two types of people: One beloved South Tyrolean mere mortals and South Tyroleans. family activity that my kids could Please know that this rule goes douget behind is sledding. In my New bly (nay, triply) for their offspring.

“The world is divided York world, though, “sledding” It could easily happen, for exinto two types conjures up visions of a child pullample, that you meet a local family ing a plastic disc to the top of a hill while skiing and decide to enjoy a of people: mere (defined as “a naturally raised area few runs together. Feel free to do so. mortals and South of land, not as high or craggy as a But do not, I repeat, do not attempt Tyroleans.” mountain”) and descending at an to keep up with even the youngest elevated velocity, until such time as of the kids. I’ve been there. I get the grade tapers off and the speed how tempting it is. She can barely of said child slows, until they evenwalk!! How fast could she possibly be? tually come to a stop. They then repeat this process I guarantee you that it’s not going to end well. about 80 times until their noses are red and snotty.

South Tyrolean kids also learn to hike before they In South Tyrol, meanwhile, the process of “sledcan walk. “That’s impossible,” I hear you saying. But ding” involves a strenuous first part: hiking up the Alpine babies learn by osmosis, spending long days in mountain. Interestingly, my children have few objecsoft infant carriers, nodding off to the expert, reassurtions to this kind of hiking. Because they love what ing, rhythmic footsteps of their hiking parents. comes afterwards: You pile your beloved progeny onto I do remember hiking with our kids in backpacks… wooden sleds with aluminum runners, and off you go but then we somehow jumped right to the age where down a long, steep, narrow trail through dense forest. they were way too heavy to carry but plenty old enough to You will undoubtedly be swiftly overtaken by a South stage a munity.

Tyrolean family, who will wave at you in the most placid

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A Short Dictionary of South Tyrolean Understand what the locals say

schurzblau [ˈʃʊʁt͡ sˌbla͡ ʊ] manner, in complete control of both velocity and steering, as if out for a leisurely Sunday drive in the country.

At the base of the mountain, look around. You’re the only one completely encased in a thick layer of snow, from the top of your helmet to the tips of your boots.

You’re the only one with snot running down your face.

Now look down at the ecstatic, beaming faces of your kids, who do seem to carry the “effortless sledding” gene – from their father’s side, of course. And when they beg you, jumping up and down with delight: Can we do it again!? the only possible thing to do is to say YES. Yes, we can. Because that’s how you bring up kids in South Tyrol.

Cassandra Han Born and raised in the US. In 2008, she moved to South Tyrol, where her husband Lorenzo’s mother is from. In this column, she writes about how she learned to love South Tyrol’s quirks and peculiarities… and how she herself slowly became a true South Tyrolean.

“Schurzblau” is the bright, royal blue colour of the traditional apron worn by South Tyrolean farmers.

In the past, these aprons were so commonplace that men were said to look half naked without them. The apron is also referred to as a “Firtig”.

Poppele [ˈpopɛlə] In South Tyrol, “Poppele” is a term of endearment used for a baby (from the Latin pupa for “little girl” or “doll”). Similarly, a baby’s pram is referred to as a “Poppmwagele”.

antrisch [ˈantʁɪʃ] “Antrisch” describes the strange, eerie feeling which might creep over you when walking through the corridors of an old abandoned building.

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Towering above Klausen/Chiusa, Säben Abbey served as a Benedictine convent for 335 years. Today the last nuns have left and the abbey stands empty, awaiting the next chapter in its history. We took a final tour through its dark corridors and confined spaces to uncover a world which remained hidden behind thick walls for centuries

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Work on the abbey began in 1681 under the direction of Klausen’s priest at the time, Matthias Jenner. The Abbey of the Holy Cross on Säben Mountain was officially founded five years later in 1686 and became home to Benedictine nuns from Nonnberg Abbey in Salzburg, Austria.

Säben’s last novice nun recently moved to Nonnberg, bringing this 335-year-old story full circle.

Over the course of the convent’s history, 550 nuns called Säben Abbey their home. In its heyday, between 80 and 90 women lived here at any one time, dedicating their lives to the Benedictine motto of “ora et labora”, which is Latin for “pray and work”. The Benedictine nuns of Säben Abbey lived in strict seclusion. No outsiders were allowed inside the abbey’s walls and its occupants rarely ventured into the outside world.

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The abbey was kept financially afloat through the dowries which each woman had to put down to enter the convent.

Besides money, these dowries could include furniture, appliances and domestic items.

Each nun was required to furnish her own bedroom, for example. In addition to making a financial contribution, nuns were also expected to make a social contribution. In some cases, nursing or shoemaking skills counted for more than physical possessions and money. Leniency was also shown to women who could only offer a small dowry but who could sing well.

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Each day the nuns would rise at 5am and follow their daily routine of morning prayer, mass, breakfast, work, lunchtime prayer, lunch, an afternoon rest, work, vespers (evening prayer), dinner, recreation time, compline (night prayer) and finally bedtime.

Life in the abbey could be very lonely. The women had to remain silent throughout all these activities. The only time they were allowed to speak to each other was during their one hour of recreation each day. During this, they listened to the radio, played games, read and did embroidery – and sometimes even discussed worldly affairs. On the last Sunday of each month, there was no recreation hour at all, leaving more time for silent reflection.

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Nurse, pharmacist, bookkeeper, window maker, cobbler and cook are just some of the 50 occupations listed in the abbey’s logbook of duties. The duties were reassigned each year by the abbess and today the logbook paints a vivid picture of the social structures within the convent. Dividing up the work in this way was essential for ensuring that the nuns could live together in harmony.

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A Day in Enchanting Klausen/Chiusa A medieval town brimming with life and culture

Shop opening times + Monday to Friday from 9am to 12pm and from 3pm to 7pm Saturday from 9am to 12pm www.klausen.it/shopping

Klausen Museum + The museum is open Tuesdays to Saturdays from 9:30am to 12pm and from 3:30pm to 6pm, from the end of March to the end of October. It is closed on Sundays, Mondays and public holidays. www.museumklausenchiusa.it

Free town tours + Every Wednesday in July, August and September (in German) Every Thursday from mid-July until the end of August (in Italian)

The small medieval town of Klausen lies nestled between the Dolomites and the Sarntal Alps. For centuries, this jewel of a town beneath the imposing Säben Abbey was a popular stopping point for people travelling between north and south. Over the years, these many visitors gave the old town centre its unique character, which remains virtually unchanged to this day. As you walk from the market square through the Brixner Tor gate, you’ll pass magnificent houses with elaborately designed façades and oriel windows, separated by narrow alleyways leading to hidden architectural gems. Many of these streets are named after the skilled trades, such as tanning, dying and milling, which have always played such an important role in the town’s economy. In a similar vein, the monthly market, which is believed to date back to 1220, remains a popular tradition – the perfect complement to the chic boutiques and shops selling a range of handpicked items, which also attract shoppers to the town.

To really appreciate all that Klausen has to offer, it’s worth taking a break from exploring every now and then. And what better way to relax than by tucking into a slice of fresh strawberry cream roulade paired with a frothy cappuccino or sipping on a delicious glass of white wine from

the Eisacktal valley. The town’s traditional inns and restaurants serve an array of tempting dishes, including speck ham dumplings with goulash, spaghetti al pomodoro or pizza fresh from a wood-fired oven – all of which go perfectly with a glass of locally brewed Klausen beer.

Tackling the admittedly steep climb up to Säben Abbey also comes highly recommended. The views across Klausen and the surrounding villages on the southern side of the Eisacktal valley are more than worth the effort. Throughout its history, Klausen’s vibrant medieval atmosphere has drawn renowned artists to the town. Albrecht Dürer, for example, once painted a watercolour featuring the town, which he later used as the backdrop for his Nemesis – The Great Fortune copperplate engraving. It is easy to see why Klausen belongs to the “Borghi più belli d’Italia” association of the most attractive old towns in Italy. The town has always inspired artists with its beauty and is quite simply an unforgettable place to visit, with so much to offer that you will dream of returning long after you leave.

Meeting point: Klausen Tourist Information Office, Marktplatz/Piazza Mercato 1, tel. +39 (0)472 847 424

www.klausen.it

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Our Favourite Places... for Families 1 Jochtal Adventure Park Stretching from the Bergrestaurant Jochtal mountain restaurant up to the Stoanermandl panoramic viewing platform, the funpacked, adrenaline-filled Jochtal Adventure Park is the perfect place for children to climb, splash and play to their heart’s content.

There’s plenty to keep them happy here, be it scrambling up the deer-shaped climbing frame, having a water fight in the splash park, meeting the animals in the petting zoo or taking a quick breather in the hammocks.

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2 WoodyWalk Plose Easy to reach via the Plose gondola lift, the WoodyWalk is a fantastic trail and fun for the whole family.

Dotted along the route are a number of attractions made from local wood, including balance beams, a Viking ship and a Kneipp water therapy pool. The circular walk takes around 90 minutes.

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3 Gitschberg Sun Park Located on the sunny plateau of Meransen/Maranza, this fun-filled adventure playground is inspired by the sun.

While the adults enjoy the magnificent panoramic views, children can burn off some energy by climbing up to play king of the castle on the sun throne, sliding down the giant slide, chatting with each other on the sunflower phone, or taking a ride in the horse and sun cart.

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Children’s ski lift in Lüsen

Kneipp water therapy in Vahrn/Varna

The “Kinderberg” or “Children’s Mountain” was completely renovated in 2019 and is a great place for both children and adults to learn to ski or refresh their skills. The modern drag lift, carefully designed slopes and snowy playground with two magic carpets are a fun way for visitors to immerse themselves in the world of skiing.

Vahrn is home to the oldest Kneipp facility in South Tyrol.

After a long hike, what could be better than dipping your feet in ice-cold water, boosting your circulation and taking a moment to lie back and relax on a green meadow? With its walking pool and keep fit trail, the Kneipp facility is a popular place to visit. Children can join the adults in the water or let off steam in the neighbouring playground.

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4 Activity park in Terenten/Terento Situated on the Sun Road, the Aktivpark Terenten activity park is a fun place to visit for the whole family. With its zip wire, rope course, hammocks, splash park, volleyball court and football field, there is plenty to keep everyone happy.

The family-friendly, 18-hole mini golf course is also a great challenge, allowing young and old to pit their skills against one another.

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Natural swimming pool in Lüsen/Luson

Natz-Schabs/NazSciaves Apfelweg Apple Trail

Nestled in the countryside, this small mountain lake is the ideal place to cool down on a long, hot summer’s day. Adults and children alike will enjoy taking a dip in the refreshing water surrounded by lush green grass. The natural swimming pool is open from early June to late August (depending on the weather) and is cleaned organically, so it’s a great option for allergy sufferers.

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The Apple Trail takes walkers past an idyllic pond and through orchards, woodland and species-rich biotopes. Along the way, information boards provide fascinating insights into the apple-growing process. The trail also passes the huge appleinspired Apfelgarten adventure playground in Raas/Rasa, which is the perfect spot for playing and picnicking. The 7.7 km circular walk starts at the Natz/ Naz village church.

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9 Klettergarten Nock outdoor climbing gym Klettergarten Nock is located in the Tinnetal valley around 5 km to the west of the historic town of Klausen/Chiusa.

Welcoming both beginners and more advanced climbers, the gym boasts a climbing wall with routes of varying difficulty, a zip wire and a slackline.

Climbing courses are also available.

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10 Terenten earth pyramids

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The earth pyramids in Terenten formed many years ago after a huge storm. These striking pillars can be easily reached on foot and almost look close enough to touch from the viewing platform.

Please note that the path is not suitable for pushchairs.

11 Elfenweg Fairy Trail in Vintl/Vandoies Which of South Tyrol’s forest dwellers have the heaviest antlers? How do bees dance and why do they do it? The Elfenweg Fairy Trail answers all these questions and more.

Starting from the large car park near St Nicholas Church in Obervintl/Vandoies di Sopra, Fairy Lilli takes visitors on a circular walk past a deer enclosure, waterfall, viewing platform and picnic area in the woods. Eleven interactive exhibits along the trail provide insights into South Tyrol’s culture and natural landscape.

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Savour the Moment Judith Niederwanger and Alexander Pichler run a successful blog called “Roter Rucksack” (German for “red backpack”). Their Facebook page of the same name has almost 20,000 likes and they have racked up more than 14,000 followers on Instagram. In 2019, they released a book showcasing some of the most beautiful hikes and photo spots in South Tyrol (published by Edition Raetia, available in German and Italian). They also regularly publish calendars featuring stunning imagery.

South Tyrolean photo bloggers Judith Niederwanger and Alexander Pichler tell the story behind one of their favourite photos

We captured this photo during a circular hike on the Plose in early summer. The Alpine roses were in full bloom as we took on three summits, marvelling at the spectacular mountain panorama.

Setting off from the top station of the Plose gondola lift in the early afternoon, we honestly had no idea what to expect. But as soon as we reached our first summit, the Telegraph (2,486 m), we realised that the Plose offers some stunning views. And the further we walked, the better they got. After conquering our second summit, the Pfannspitze (2,545 m), we continued on to the Grosser Gabler (2,575 m), the Plose’s highest peak. Arriving at the top in the early evening, we knew that we had saved the best for last. Despite the easy climb, you are rewarded with a breathtaking panorama. The view extends from the main chain of the Alps all the way across to the Dolomites.

We decided to make the Gabler Biwak the focal point of our photo. This small wooden hut stands in the middle of the mountains with the mighty Aferer and Villnösser Geisler peaks towering above it. To make the mountains appear so close, we captured the scene using a telephoto lens.

www.roterrucksack.com

Canon EOS 5D Mark II

70-200 mm @ 78 mm

f/8 1/640 s Taken on 16 June 2021 at 6:35pm

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