The Gypsy Divers followed the Gypsy Divers as they dive under Chao Phraya River in search for antiques.
“You know with a glance at their house if they have friends or not� Building a house on the side of the river is hard. You need help from friends to level the house upright. So if the house stands up straignt and seems stable, might mean that they have a lot of friends who helped them with it.
Right under Krung Thon Bridge, located old locals known as Mitrkhram, the neighbourhood resided on the side of Chaopraya River for over a century.
They are one of the oldest neighbourhood that still remains to this day. “There, you see? There’s a diving bell sitting on almost every boat in this neighbourhood.”
This career has fed generations of people in the community. And as many of them grew up on it, eventually it became a part of who they are.
After finding the right spot, they dropped the anchor and began preparing for the dive. “How do you know where to dive?” “It was told by our ancestors. They taught us where the spots are. It is usually in the area that used to be markets, community, church, or busy piers” Before every dive, it is their ritual to kneel down and pray to Hua Kru. Hua Kru is what they call their diving bell, which they believe to be sacred. Certain rules are complied to honour their Hua Kru and to make sure they don’t disrespect the sacred. “There are many. It’s not written or anything, we all knew it by experience.” “Like what?”
“You can’t keep things you found for long, you have to sell them right away.” ________________ “How so?” “Or else it will hold you back on your next dive, you won’t find anything good.” ________________ “You also can’t place Hua Kru upside down, you just can’t, it’s the rule. ” ________________ “And if you caught a fish or shrimp during your dive, you have to let it go. It’s not good to harm life when you are divers.”
Each boat always have two divers on it. When one goes diving, the other one will hold on to the tube waiting to take turn. Divers, with Hua Kru on their head, plastic sack tied to their waist, bare hands, and bare feet, slowly crawl through the surface underneath Chao Phraya River.
The diving bell made of steel, weigh over 20 kilograms, connected with air tube, Placed over the diver’s head as he descended into the water.
“It’s pitch black down there, you are basically a blind man.”
On the bottom of the river, the landscape varies. There’s mud, a giant pit, tree trunks, piles of trash, and much more. They use their hands digging into lumps of dirt until they found the right one. Then they scrape that part out from the big lump and put it in their sacks. Each time they rely mainly on their touch and senses since the eye can’t see without any lights beaming through.
“Believe it or not, just the touch and I can tell if the thing is real or fake. You name it; diamond, gold, pearls, and even coins.”
“Pulling the tube one time means that the anchor is too short, loosen it. Two times mean that the diver should pack up the stuff, we are about to go. Three times mean dangerous, come up. And if someone keeps pulling non stop, it either means that they are lost, or extremely dangerous, come up immediately.�
When they come up, they move all the stuff in the sack onto the strainers. Then they begin to wash out all the dirt and look for anything that has value in it. The stuff they found usually comes from King Rama V era (1853-1910 CE) or older. They explained that in the past people travel and trade through water. It was the easiest way around since there were no cars or roads. Because of that, it was common for things to fallen into the river, then it just remains there because no one would dare to dive down to the bottom of the river.
“ It’s important
to keep them wet in the water. If you let them dry, they’re going to crack. ”
In a while, this community will have to move somewhere else. The government recently approved the project to create river side pathways as a landscape development to the city. Many of them already left, scattered around the suburban area of Bangkok. While the rest of them still remain there, waiting for the day that they eventually have to leave. “Even if I moved, I might still come back here and dive again. Maybe take a bus to the city and get on the boat or something. I really don’t know how things going to turn out. But I only know that this is the only thing I’ve ever known to do my whole life. Been in the water since I was born and I’m sure don’t want to leave. Now my scale’s going to dry. ”
Saam 53 years old. Started diving at 13 and continue diving until now, around 40 years. “I was very strong” he said. “40kg of steel is a piece of pie. But now, I can barely lift a 20kg.” “why’s that?” I asked. “Maybe all the water pressure got me shrinking.”
Kung 27 years old. Started diving at 17 been doing it ever since, around 10 years now. Saam was his mentor.
Yatt 48 years old. Started diving at 18 (around the same time as Boh).
Boh 46 years old. Started diving at 16 and was taught by his father. He’s been doing it ever since, around 30 years now.
EDITORS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS
Design Ratirat Pipatkulcheewin 90610139
Aries Paphassa Kumsin 90610090