Easy DIY Issue 43 Summer

SUMMER 2021

WORKSHOP ■ UPDATE ■ MAINTAIN ■ LIVING

WWW.EASYDIY.CO.ZA

TOOLB POWEROX AND TOOLS PAGES

PROJECTS

4 & 11

> EASY PLUMBING FIXES > FIREPROOFING TIPS

Summer Workshop INSTALLING MOSQUITO NETS DAMP-PROOF LIKE A PRO

R40 incl VAT

9 772221 941042 9 772221 941042 ISSUE 43 • 2021

21043 21043

Alternative builds with

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TIMBER-FRAME HOMES

B u ild w it h p a ll et s Pa g e 25

DIY 101 SPACE-MAKERS l SHOE STORAGE l INSTALLING LOCK BOLTS

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CONTENTS

21

25

REGULARS

DIY 101

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25

EDITORIAL COMMENTARY It’s almost time to sit back, relax and enjoy long, leisurely summer days, but first, tackle some easy DIY projects to make your life even easier

4 & 11 WIN! Win prizes valued at over R10 000 with Brights Hardware store and Makita

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BITS ‘N’ BOB A roundup of the best buys for this summer season; how to damp-proof your shower like a pro; and subscribe to your favourite DIY mag

FEATURES

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35

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51

BUILDING WITH PALLET CRATES Pallets are easy to find and inexpensive and can be used to create fun, rustic-looking items for the home and garden SPACE-MAKERS If you need more space in your kitchen to create easy access to your appliances or food items, why not take on these DIY space-maker projects INSTALLING LOCKING BOLTS Sliding door locks are designed to lock sliding doors, however, they can also be used to secure hinged doors and doing so doesn’t cost too much

39

SHOE STORAGE Shoes are usually consigned to the bottom of a cupboard. No more with this easy-to-make shoe cupboard storage solution

WORKSHOP 44

PLUMBING FIXES Temporary plumbing fixes to help you contain a problem until you can call in the professionals

GUIDE TO

14

TIMBER-FRAME HOMES A guide to homes you “wood” like.

Timber-frame homes offer many attractions and are well worth considering as an alternative to brick-and-mortar residences

48

FIRE MAINTENANCE With the advent of summer, there is an increased risk of fires breaking out in and around the home. We provide a list of a few crucial ways to make sure your home is protected

21

RE-ENERGISE YOUR OUTDOOR SPACES The cold months have most likely been a bit unkind to your entertainment area. We share a few tips and tricks to show your space some TLC

50

MOSQUITO NETS If you want to enjoy your evenings outdoors without being plagued by mosquitoes, the best solution is to install mosquito netting around your entertainment area

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EDITORIAL COMMENT

EASY SUMMER BUILDS

I

f you’ve been in DIY mode renovating or refurbishing around the home this year, then you’ll probably want to sit back and enjoy the spoils of all your hard work this summer. But before you do that, we have a few easy DIY projects to make your summer days lounging around in the sun even more enjoyable.

Our DIY experts show you how to do easy builds with pallet crates,

install those must-have mosquito nets around the patio, and ensure your home is fireproofed. We also share some tips on how to create summer-ready outdoor spaces whether you live in a high-rise building or sprawling mini mansion.

So don’t relax before you get your indoor and outdoor areas spruced-up.

Raina Julies

Published by:

Picasso Headline, a proud division of Arena Holdings (Pty) Ltd Hill on Empire, 16 Empire Road (cnr Hillside Road), Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 Postal Address: PO Box 12500, Mill Street, Cape Town, 8010 easydiy.co.za businessmediamags.co.za

EDITORIAL Content Manager Raina Julies rainaj@picasso.co.za Contributors Rod Baker, Brenda Bryden, Gina Hartoog, Orlando Luis Copy Editor Brenda Bryden Content Co-ordinator Vanessa Payne

ART Head of Design Studio Jayne Macé-Ferguson Senior Designer Mfundo Archie Ndzo Advert Designer Bulelwa Sotashe Cover Image jandrielombard; istockphoto.com

SALES Project Manager Gavin Payne gavinp@picasso.co.za +27 21 469 2477 I +27 74 031 9774 Sales Consultants Jacqueline Bezuidenhout, Natalie Sanders

PRODUCTION Production Editor Shamiela Brenner Advertising Co-ordinator Johan Labuschagne Subscriptions and Distribution Fatima Dramat fatimad@picasso.co.za Distribution On the Dot Printing CTP Printers, Cape Town

MANAGEMENT Management Accountant Deidre Musha Business Manager Lodewyk van der Walt General Manager, Magazines Jocelyne Bayer

Copyright: Picasso Headline. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. The publisher is not responsible for unsolicited material. EasyDIY is published by Picasso Headline. The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Picasso Headline. All advertisements/advertorials and promotions have been paid for and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publisher.

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WIN

with Brights Hardware Brights Hardware store is giving away a 106-piece Kraftwerk Toolbox valued at R6999.

To enter and be included in our Business Media Mags newsletter database, SMS EasyDIY Brights 1 followed by your full name, email and physical address to 33089. SMSes cost R1.50 each. To enter without inclusion in our newsletter, SMS EasyDIY Brights 2.

SMS errors are billed; free SMSes do not apply. For full terms and conditions, visit easyDIY.co.za Competition ends: 25 January 2022

The universal toolset comprises 106 tool assortments in a five-piece, solid metal toolbox, lockable with a padlock. Thanks to the PVC module system, each tool has its own place and is easy to find.

The toolset contents:

• Pozidrive bits PZ1 - PZ2 - PZ3

• Sockets 1/4” 3.5 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - 11 - 12 - 13mm

• Torx bits T10 - T15 - T20 - T25 - T27 - T30 - T40

• Sockets 1/2” 10 - 13 - 14 - 15 - 16 - 17 - 18 - 19 - 21 - 22 - 24 - 27 - 30 - 32mm

• Torx bits with pin guide T10H - T15H - T20H - T25H - T27H - T30H - T40H • Hex bits 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8mm

• Extension 1/4” 50mm

• Adapter 1/4” hexagon to 1/4” outer square

• Extension 1/2” 125mm

• Bit holder 1/4”

• Cardan joint 1/4”

• Open-end spanners 8 - 9 - 10 - 11 - 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 - 17 - 19mm

• Cardan joint 1/2” • Reversing ratchet 1/4” • Reversing ratchet 1/2” • Saw cut bits 4.5 - 5 - 6.5 - 8mm • Phillips bits PH0 - PH1 - PH2 - PH3

• Torx L-keys angled T10 - T15 - T20 - T25 - T27 - T30 - T40 - T45 - T50 • Allen hex keys 1.5 - 2 - 2.5 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 8 - 10mm • Saw-cut screwdrivers 0.4x2.5 - 0.9x5.0mm • Phillips screwdrivers PH1 - PH2 • Bit screwdriver 1/4” • Voltage tester 110-250V • Combination pliers 180mm • Flat nose pliers 200mm • Water pump pliers 250mm • Cable cutter • Bench hammer 300gr • Pin driver 3mm

Scan QR code to go directly to the www.brights.co.za website.

BrightsHardware https://www.facebook.com/brightshardware/

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• Centre punch • Tape measure 3m

@BrightsHardware https://twitter.com/brightshardware?lang=en

About Brights

BRIGHTS HARDWARE is a Western Cape-based hardware chain dedicated to providing customers with great service, quality products and expert advice on all things hardware.

The Brights motto is “Brights is more than just a hardware store” and the organisation ensures that it demonstrates this in its day-to-day operations. Brights has remained a family business and is owned and operated by the Luis children, their spouses and Brights staff members, who are shareholders.

Brights Hardware has on-site experts in all stores to provide advice and guidance on a vast range of quality products at the best price, our tech-savvy sales associates can provide customers with all the product insights and information they need.

Brights stores are located in Boston, Blackheath, Langebaan, Mitchells Plain, Montague Park, Plattekloof, Stonewood, Brackengate and Sunningdale. As well as an online store shopping experience available at www.brights.co.za.

@BrightsHardware https://www.instagram.com/brightshardware/?hl=en

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PRODUCT ROUNDUP

BEST BUYS, a product roundup DIY projects made easier this summer with these carefully selected best buys

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DROMEX CLASSIC EXTREME EAR MUFFS

The Dromex® Classic Extreme headband-style, close-fitting adjustable ear muffs provide optimum protection against high-frequency noise in the ear canal.

Classic Extreme ear muffs feature a padded cradle headband and large self-adjusting cups for high noise levels. Consisting of soft foam and leather skin, they provide comfort for those requiring hearing protection for extended periods. Twin point mounted cups maintain even pressure distribution for protection.

Suitable for use in airports, excavation equipment handling, high pressure steaming, machining, grinding and woodwork as well as in high frequency welding applications and when running a generator.

Bits ‘n’ Bobs

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SIKAFLEX® -11 FC+

This product is a one-part, multipurpose elastic adhesive and joint sealant with very good application properties that bond and seal most construction material substrates. It can be used as an adhesive to bond construction components and materials such as concrete, masonry, reconstituted or cast stone, ceramic, wood, metal, and glass. It is also used to seal vertical and horizontal joints.

Available at leading online stores.

Available at dromex.co.za

4

20V CORDLESS POWER TOOL RANGE

Arrive home to a fully lit garage and parking area with the unique Tork Craft motion sensor LED ceiling Trilight that has adjustable motion for distance, a five times brighter LED white light, and timer. It’s easy to install in garages, workshops, the home, entrances, hallways, attics, and more. The lights go on when you open the door.

Tork Craft launches its award-winning new power tool range, packed with the latest technology and features: 20-volt, powerful brushless motors, latest longlife Li-ion interchangeable batteries, keyless chucks. The tools are lightweight and comfortable. There is a large selection of settings and a battery power indicator.

Available at leading hardware and online stores.

Available at www.torkcraft.com

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TORK CRAFT MOTION SENSOR LED CEILING TRILIGHT

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Bits ‘n’ Bobs

PRODUCT ROUNDUP

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TOTAL TOOLS 230MM ANGLE GRINDER

The 230mm angle grinder from Total Tools includes a blade guard and one-piece auxiliary handle, has 2 400W of input power, no-load speed of 6 300rpm and a M14 spindle thread.

Available at Brights Hardware stores.

5

TOTAL TOOLS 850W IMPACT DRILL

The Total Tool Impact Drill is a heavy-duty industrial-grade impact drill with hammer function, ideal for drilling metal and wood, and hammer drilling on concrete. The powerful 850-watt motor provides high power and torque for consistently professional results.

The drill is durable and has variable speeds for different types of drilling, a forward and reverse rotation, and a lock-on switch for continuous use. Its soft grip ensures a more comfortable hold.

Available at Brights Hardware stores.

8

THE ALPEN PLW M SERIES BITS

The Alpen PLW M series bits take the guesswork out of drilling and tapping as these new combo bits do it all in one process. The combination HSS bits with ¼” hexagonal shank for Metric ISO threads DIN 13 is available in all the popular sizes M3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10.

These new units represent a breakthrough for industry and are the perfect product for all repairers, rebuilders and DIYers.

Available at Vermont Sales and from all leading stores countrywide.

Clean your bicycle or motorcycle from a water bottle with the WORX HydroShot – a portable, cordless high-pressure washer. With this water-bottle-turned-high-pressure source, you can now clean anytime and anywhere.

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WORX HYDROSHOT

Available at leading hardware and online stores.

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HOW TO

Bits ‘n’ Bobs

Damp-proof

YOUR SHOWER The most trusted solution to prevent any damp seeping through your shower walls and floors is to waterproof your shower. We asked the experts at Sika for some DIY tips

YOU WILL NEED:

HERE’S HOW: STEP 1. Ensure that the shower walls and floor are bare plaster and free of any dust or loose material.

You can clean the walls and floors with a wire brush.

STEP 2. Precut manageable pieces of Cemflex® membrane for the required area. To prepare the

waterproofing slurry, you will need to mix 1 litre of Cemflex®, 1 litre of water and 3.4 kg of Portland cement, which will yield 3.2 litres of waterproofing slurry that will cover an area of 1m2 (with membrane).

A BASIC MIXING RATIO GUIDELINE Units

Mixing Ratio

• Cemflex® • Cemflex® membrane

Cemflex

Litres

1.5

5.0

14.7

25.0

• Portland cement

Water

Litres

1.5

5.0

14.7

25.0

Portland cement

Kgs

3.4

17.0

50.0

85.0

Yield

Litres

3.2

16.0

47.0

80.0

• Water • Wire brush • Block brush/large paintbrush • Bucket for mixing • Gloves • Mask • Spatula (small quantities)/mechanical mixer and paddle (quantities exceeding 5 litres)

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HOW TO SEAL BATHROOM JOINTS

Refer to the Cemflex packaging for mixing instructions. First mix the required amount of Cemflex and water and then add the correct amount of Portland cement slowly, mixing as you add to avoid the formation of lumps. You will now have a Cemflex slurry that is ready to be applied.

STEP 3. Dampen down the walls and floor that you are applying the product to and make sure that there is no standing water. Ensure that the walls and floor are thoroughly saturated. While the surface is still damp, apply a coat of the Cemflex slurry. Dunk the Cemflex membrane in the Cemflex slurry until the membrane is fully saturated. Remove the soaked membrane from the slurry and lightly squeeze before placing the Cemflex membrane over the damp substrate with your gloved hand, smoothing off with the brush to eliminate all air bubbles. Overlaps of adjacent fabric must be a minimum of 50mm.

STEP 4. Once the entire area is covered and all the air bubbles have been removed, apply a generous coat of the slurry and allow to dry for 24 hours.

STEP 5. After waiting 24 hours, mix a new batch of the Cemflex slurry and apply the final coat to the

completed area. Allow the final coat to dry for 6–8 hours before applying tiles or painting the surface.

Freshly applied Cemflex should be protected from damp, condensation and water for at least 12 hours. P EasyDIY

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E V SA20%

Bits ‘n’ Bobs

SUBSCRIBE

1 year of EasyDIY, 4 issues to enjoy for R130 (incl VAT)

5EASY

MAKITA COMPETITION WINNER

CONGRATULATIONS TO

OUR WINNERS FROM ISSUE 42 – SPRING BUKS SWANEPOEL is the winner of a Makita MT Power Tools set (comprising a M4000B Blower, M4301B Jig Saw and M5802B Circular Saw)

WAYS TO SUBSCRIBE 1

ONLINE AT

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EMAIL

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SMS 'subs EDIY' to 43331 (standard rates apply)

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WIN with Makita

Makita MT Power Tools set (comprising M4000B Blower, M4301B Jig Saw and M5802B Circular Saw) per issue to one winner.

Makita’s MT range of standard-duty industrial power tools provides the quality you expect from Makita at an affordable price.

Makita M4000B Blower

Makita’s MT M4000B Variable Speed Blower has an in-line and ergonomically designed grip for easily applying the nozzle to that which is to be blown away. The sash nozzle has its own storage space underneath the body of the tool.

The M4000B has a well-balanced clamshell-type motor housing for the 530W motor that produces a no-load speed of 8 500–16 000 r/min. It has a conveniently located speed control dial and weighs only 1.5kg with an overall length of 427mm.

The M4000B is a versatile and practical tool to own. It is ideal for getting rid of dust from work surfaces, such as purging dust from anchor holes. This tool is also beneficial for keeping other tools and equipment in good condition by clearing out the excess dust. The possibilities are endless; you can also use the M4000B for clearing out air-conditioning filters, computers and keyboards as well as other office and even household appliances.

The M4000B is supplied with a nozzle assembly and 2m power supply cord.

Makita MT M4301B Jig Saw

The Makita MT Standard Duty Industrial M4301B Jig Saw is robust, strong and powered by a motor that produces an output of 450W. The M4301B is truly versatile and able to cut many different materials (wood, steel, metal and plastics) with its straight cutting and three orbital settings. By fitting the right blade for the job, the saw’s cutting performance is not compromised. An adjustable steel baseplate offers good blade support and makes for easy angle cutting ranging between 0 and 45 degrees. The blade holder accepts B-type bayonet blades, fitted as standard. The variable speed control allows the operator to adjust the blade speed according to the material being cut. Depending on the type of material, up to 3 100 strokes per minute can be achieved. Wood that is 65mm thick and 6mm-thick steel can be accurately and flawlessly cut. A very useful stroke of 18mm is achieved during cutting.

Weighing 1.9kg with a 2m power supply cord, the M4301B provides the user with simple solid power!

Makita MT M5802B Circular Saw

Makita’s MT M5802B Circular Saw combines portability and power, making it useful for a wide variety of tasks – whether on site or in the workshop. Featuring a 190/185mm blade diameter, the saw is set up quickly to accurately rip, crosscut or bevel into both hard and softwood. The maximum cutting depth at 90 degrees is 68mm and 46mm at 45 degrees. A sturdy rear angular guide ensures smooth and precise adjustment of the bevel angle. The flat motor housing design provides increased stability when changing blades.

The robust and reliable motor delivers a continuous rating output of a maximum of 1 050 watts. The no-load speed is 4 900 r/min.

Operator comfort and safety during operation has not been overlooked. An ergonomically designed handle reduces the magnitude of vibration, hand fatigue and pain while the nonskid elastomer provides a sturdy grip.

The saw is double insulated to reduce noise levels and protect the operator from electric shock during use.

In accordance with the safety regulations, sawdust is expelled via the rear exhaust port, providing a cleaner working environment. Superior dust collection can be obtained by attaching an optional dust nozzle that is then connected to a dust extraction system.

Measuring 297mm in length and weighing 4kg, the M5802B allows for quick storage and easy transportation. A guide rule, hex wrench and TCT saw blade are included with the saw.

To enter and be included in our Business Media Mags newsletter database, SMS EASYDIY 43 MAKITA 1 followed by your full name, email and physical address to 33089. SMSes cost R1.50 each.

To enter without inclusion in the newsletter, SMS EASYDIY 43 MAKITA 2. SMS errors are billed; free SMSes do not apply.

For full terms and conditions, visit easyDIY.co.za. Competition ends 25 January 2022.

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ADVERTORIAL

Plascon:

THE PAINT PIONEER

P

lascon has been manufacturing and supplying coatings for over 130 years, thanks to its ability to continuously reinvent its brand. Plascon is at the cutting edge of technological development and continuously revolutionises within the paint industry, reaffirming its focus on people and purpose.

At the forefront of innovation, Plascon continues to invest in leading technologies, providing premium quality products that provide elegance, style and peace of mind to its consumers

Plascon Cashmere features Triple Action BeadTM technology, a special additive in the paint that is responsible for the dispersion of light. This technology ensures a plush matt finish, which is capable of hiding plaster imperfections in a wall while bringing to life warm colours and forming a protective barrier that maintains an absolute matt finish over time, even with regular wiping.

Plascon Cashmere, Plascon Double Velvet Pure and Plascon Kitchens and Bathrooms, are all formulated with Silver ProtectTM, silver additives that help to keep walls cleaner for longer and improve stain resistance. Silver Protect has also proven effective in reducing mould and algae formation.

Plascon Nuroof Cool has a unique EnviroshieldTM formulation with UV protection and infrared-reflective technology. The formulation minimises the effect of the sun’s heat on your roof, resulting in cooler roof surfaces.

Lower roof temperatures mean less stress and strain on the coating and the roof – promoting longer roof life and keeping your roof beautiful for years.

It also cools the interior of your home by up to 8°C during summer (in winter, 12

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the impact of the cooling effect is minimised). By reducing the need for cooling, you will save on both costs and power while also reducing emissions of greenhouse gases due to lower power requirements.

The Plascon premium range also utilises BreatheasyTM technology so that consumers can paint and experience virtually no odour. This means that the short-term adverse effects of eye, nose and throat irritation and headaches that often result from breathing in paint vapours are drastically minimised. With no lead and zero VOCs (volatile organic

compounds), consumers are not only protecting the health of their families, but also the environment.

When it comes to water-based alternatives to solvent-based enamels, Plascon Velvaglo is prized for its superior strength, satin finish and versatility. Formulated with a unique water-based acrylic hybrid called AquatoughTM, Plascon Velvaglo Water-Based offers all the toughness of a solvent-based enamel including UV, flaking and stain resistance, with nondrip properties while remaining environmentally friendly and nontoxic.

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TECHNOLOGICALLY ADVANCED PREMIUM PRODUCTS

POPULAR BRANDS GET AN UPGRADE In keeping with its commitment to innovation, Plascon has also launched major upgrades to two of its most beloved and well-renowned brands: Plascon Micatex, now with Polycell technology, and Plascon Double Velvet Pure, now with air purifying technology.

Plascon Micatex with WeathertoughTM is a well-loved, finely textured, exterior matt paint for long-lasting, extra protection against the toughest weather conditions and the wear and tear of everyday living.

It contains PolycellTM Polyfilla Fine Crack Filler, which covers hairline cracks and prevents water from entering the cracks, thereby causing damp problems, premature colour fading or cracking and peeling of the paint. With twice the film thickness compared to conventional paints, Plascon Micatex also boasts mica for stretch and marble for strength.

In 2020, Plascon introduced the South African market to a paint with air purifying technology.

Plascon Double Velvet Pure has the ability to actively improve the quality of indoor air by removing formaldehyde from the air that you breathe, making your home and workspace a safer environment for you, your co-workers and your family. A special compound in the formula removes and permanently transforms the formaldehyde in the air into undetectable, harmless water vapour that is safe to breathe. P

➔ Scan this QR code to go directly to the ingco website.

For more information visit,

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

www.plascon.com

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Feature

TIMBER-FRAME-HOMES

A guide to

HOMES YOU “WOOD” LIKE Timber-frame homes offer many attractions and are well worth considering as an alternative to brick-and-mortar residences. By Rod Baker

T

imber-frame homes are becoming more common and popular in South Africa.

Let’s take a brief look at these homes and what they offer.

WHY WOOD? WHY NOT? Here are some reasons why building with timber makes good sense here.

• Energy-efficient: because wood has excellent insulating properties, you can save on energy costs for heating and cooling.

• Local is lekker: SA pine is the most suitable timber for the structural elements in most timber-frame homes.

The Pinus radiata species is grown in 14

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Feature_Timber Builds.indd 14

the southern Western Cape and has a strength-to-weight ratio 20 per cent higher than structural steel. In its treated state it is regarded by many experts in the field as the ideal timber for use in timber homes.

• Renewable: trees keep growing, as one is cut down to be turned into the framework for your home, so another is planted.

• Timber combines strength with light weight: A wood structure is much lighter than one constructed from concrete or brick and mortar. This means it is an excellent choice of building material for extensions.

• Wood is more than just wood: existing

products are constantly being refined, and new products are being developed, allowing for many innovative ways of using wood. For instance, wood can be laminated in various ways to create curved arches and beams, straight beams, tapered beams, panels and so on, across a wide range of lengths and cross-sections that offer great strength and versatility in design. Laminated wood eliminates the limitations of, for instance, timber beams comprising a single length of timber (these might have weak spots in the form of knots). Beams may be glued vertically or horizontally and can also mix various types of wood for decorative effects. Glue-laminated beams and cross-laminated timber are available in various standard dimensions.

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SOME TIMBER CONSTRUCTION MYTHS

ONGOING MAINTENANCE

• Banks do not finance timber-frame homes: yes they do, just as insurance companies will insure such homes and their contents, but, as with any building built from any other building material, such institutions will require timber-frame homes to be built according to the national building codes, using proper materials, and built by a qualified, registered builder and in accordance with local authority bylaws. They may have other conditions as well, but they do provide finance provided everything is in order.

• Durability: timber-frame homes built to all national building codes by a qualified builder who adheres to the building codes, and are properly maintained, actually do last.

• Fire hazard: many experts in the field reckon that if a timber-frame home is built correctly and incorporates modern fire-retardant materials and techniques, and complies with national building codes, it will comfortably measure up to South African fire safety requirements.

• Strength: timber is a light, but strong, durable building material.

• Structural pine (S5) treated to H3 or H4 (see table below), is often used for timber framing, has a strength-to-weight ratio four times that of unreinforced concrete in compression and 20 per cent higher than that of structural steel.

Structural timber used in timber-frame homes is pre-treated, so you should not need to concern yourself with that. However, as with any home of whatever construction, ongoing maintenance is required, and for that, there is a very wide range of wood preservatives, wood sealers, varnishes and paints on the market.

Maintaining a timber house is very much like that of maintaining a brick-and-mortar home and, as always, quality counts, so selecting the wrong materials or less suitable materials because they are cheaper could result in you spending more on maintenance down the line. For instance, at the building stage, pre-painted aluminium cladding might cost you more than timber cladding, but it will very likely offer lower maintenance requirements in the future.

The amount of maintenance required also depends on where the home is: dry areas and coastal areas each subject your home to different maintenance needs.

Again, when it comes to products such as wood sealers, varnishes and paints and so on, chat to the assistant in the paint department at your local hardware store, or better still, be guided by your registered builder.

WOOD PRESERVATION Wood is prone to attack by environmental factors, various types of fungi, and insects and pests. So, although wood can last for centuries, it needs a little help, which is why timber used in timber-frame homes in South Africa has to have been treated according to the applicable wood preservation standards as set by the South African Bureau of Standards (SABS) and the South African Wood Preservation Association.

This means that not all the wood in a timber-frame home structure need necessarily be treated to the same rating throughout and they vary according to the wood’s application in the structure. For instance, level H3 wood would be used in the construction of the exterior walls of timber-frame buildings while level H4 timber will be used for the base as it is in contact with the soil. Therefore, if your home is on columns and on the edge of a freshwater lake, the columns that are likely to be exposed to water or stand in it will be treated to H5 standards.

HAZARD RATINGS AND THE APPROPRIATE PRESERVATIVE Preservative (note that types of

TYPES OF PRESERVATIVES Wood preservatives fall into two broad categories: Oil-based preservatives and water-based preservatives, and within each broad category, there is a range of different products, with different formulations and applications. Some can be applied directly over the old coat without a need for sanding, and come with a long-life warranty, provided the product has been applied as directed.

Paints are also preservatives and give the home a bright new colour while also protecting the underlying surface. Some come with a 10- or even 15-year guarantee. Buy the best quality you can – it will save you money in the long run.

FINANCING AND INSURANCE You will, in all likelihood, require a bond to build your home.

Bank approval of your bond application would be considered on an individual risk basis and subject to various conditions.

And, as mentioned previously, it will have to pass muster in terms of regulations, materials, design and local authority bylaws.

As to insuring your home and contents, this is something you must do to protect against damage or loss; and it is a pre-requisite for getting a bond.

Hazard class

Exposure class

H6

Marine

CCA plus creosote

Marine borers, decay fungi, wood-boring insects above high-water mark

H5

Freshwater

CCA or creosote

All of the above, except marine borer

H4

Outside, in contact with the soil

CCA or creosote

Decay fungi, termites, wood-boring insects

H3

Outside, above the soil

CCA or creosote

Moderate decay, all wood borers, dry wood termites

H2

Inside

CCA or creosote or TBTOL or PCPZN or borate

Wood borers and dry wood termites

preservatives may change over time as new products, for example, are developed)

Hazard faced

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Introducing Double Velvet Pure – with air purifying technology

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Feature

TIMBER-FRAME-HOMES

Your best plan is to shop around to get the best quote.

One authority in the home bond/insurance field says that the same enquiry procedures apply to both timber-frame and brick-and-mortar homes so both are normally calculated at the same rate.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT BUILDER Getting your home financed by the bank and then getting it and its contents insured for the best premium will be all the more certain if it has been, or will be, built by a builder registered with the Institute of Timber Frame Builders (ITFB). This organisation’s mission is to protect consumers against unscrupulous and incompetent timber home contractors. ITFB provides guidance on building, renovations and other matters, and can also refer you to reputable contractors.

1

Secondly, the build must be in accordance with the National Building Regulations (NBR) for timber housing (SABS 082/88, now known as SANS 10082) – it has to conform to be recognised by the National Home Builder Registration Council (NHBRC) as an approved form of construction, as well as to qualify for enrolment in NHBRC’s five-year warranty scheme. The NBR also ensures that all timber used in the construction of homes is strength graded according to SABS standards.

As with any other large financial undertaking, shop around.

Visit homeowners of timber-frame homes and ask about the pros and cons, maintenance, materials used, any problems and, importantly, the builder. Armed with that company’s/ builder’s name, approach the ITFB and check whether the company/builder is registered and ITFB-recommended.

2

This mixed bricks-and-mortar timber-frame home packs a lot of living space into a comparatively small area. (Image: Public Domain)

A timber-frame home with an exterior log-type finish.

(Image: Public Domain)

A timber-frame interior combining laminated wood flooring with painted plasterboard walls.

(Image: Public Domain)

Imagine a paint that could clean the air you breathe

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4 This loft adds living space while plenty of windows give a light, airy feel.

(Image: Public Domain)

7 An example of a wall frame. As with many areas, terms for various parts can vary from country to country and builder to builder.

8

5 A kitchen with downlights. (Image: Public Domain)

6 Bathrooms and showers are steamy and plasterboard is not waterproof, so the walls need to be very comprehensively sealed. A good idea is to have a self-contained shower cubicle installed as a unit. (Image: Public Domain)

An illustration showing cross-laminated timber (top), glued-laminated beams, often used for vertical or horizontal supports and hence glued vertically (centre left). Finger-jointed laminated beams (centre right and bottom) are often used as floor supports in double-storey homes or as exposed ceiling beams. Such structural beams comprise staggered lengths of timber glued together as shown. The wood is coated with glue and then bonded under pressure. These beams can be shaped into curves. Usually, they are the same wood, but can comprise different types of wood for a more decorative effect.

9 Drywall (also known as plasterboard, wallboard, sheetrock, gypsum board) is a panel made of gypsum plaster pressed between two thick sheets of paper. It is used on interior walls and ceilings.

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TIMBER-FRAME-HOMES

11 This light fitting is being fitted during construction, but timber-frame construction does generally allow for the fitting of extra light fixtures without the need for chasing the supply wires’ channel – as one usually has to do in the case of a brick-and-mortar plastered wall.

10

12

After installation, this material is skimmed with a thin layer of drywall joint compound. This layer not only hides joins where panels meet and nail heads, but, properly applied, also gives the wall surface a smooth finish for painting.

Solid log walls have been around for a long time. The logs interlock at each corner and make for a very attractive appearance. (Image: Public Domain)

13

An illustration of the cross-section (top view) through a typical exterior wall. There are several types of insulation material available, from recycled PET bottles to foil-faced foam board or glass/mineral wool that is often combined with a foil blanket. Stone wool, also known as mineral wool, is created by spinning molten rock and minerals with steel slag to create a wool product rather like candyfloss. Stone wool is pressed into rolls and sheets to create a very effective fire-resistant, sound-absorbent and thermal insulation.

One product available locally is Rockwool.

This is a fibre-cement product called Nutec, used for exterior cladding. It is wood-textured and can be painted.

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Imagine a paint that could clean the air you breathe

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19 15 This is what finger-jointing looks like.

Items such as pictures and mirrors that are to be attached to dry walls with plasterboard construction require attachment with fasteners such as those shown in the following images. They are not designed to bear huge weight, nor is plasterboard – so light items only. The two shown here are screwed into the pre-dilled hole in the material and the attachment screw is then driven in through it. If you are going to attach a shelf for a heavier load to a plasterboard wall, then you need to locate the stud positions using a stud finder and drive ordinary wood screws or coach screws into the studs to attach the shelf brackets.

16 Orientated strand board is often used in timber-frame construction in the walls.

20 This is a molly bolt (light use) being demonstrated on a piece of tempered hardboard. The head has teeth that lock into the outer surface and, as the bolt is turned, it pulls the end toward the head, collapsing the arms and locking the fastener in place. The bolt can then be removed and the item attached.

17 Two examples of laminated wood flooring, ideal for use in homes of whatever construction.

21 18

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

Laminated veneer lumber (LVL) is manufactured by bonding, under pressure, thin wood veneers, all of them parallel to the long direction, together with resin. LVL is one of the structural composite lumber family of engineered wood products commonly used in structural applications such as walls, rafters, beams and columns.

Mica stores stock the timber, fasteners, brackets, doors, and other hardware such as handles, hinges and locks that you will require for your timber-frame home. To find your closest Mica, go to www.mica.co.za. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need, they will order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

This is a toggle bolt (light use). The fastener has to be inserted into the item to be attached, then the spring-loaded toggles are inserted into the predrilled hole and the bolt turned tight. If you remove the bolt afterwards, the toggle section will fall away within the wall cavity, never to be seen again.

22 This cavity knot wall plug (light load) works in rather the same way as the molly bolt, but is designed to work with wood or chipboard screws when attaching items to a drywall. The ends are joined and as the screw is turned in, so the end of the anchor is pulled towards the head, collapsing the arms against the back of the panel, locking it in place. P EasyDIY

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OUTDOOR MAINTENANCE

Feature

Re-energise

YOUR OUTDOOR SPACES

Whether your outdoor space is a balcony, small garden, courtyard, or the rolling hills of the Von Trapp family’s homeland, the cold months have most likely been a bit unkind to your entertainment area. We share a few tips and tricks to bring back the lustre. By Raina Julies

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OUTDOOR MAINTENANCE

THE BALCONY

22

EasyDIY

type of bristles on the brush will depend on the material of your balcony.

Repeat this process with clear water to remove all leftover residue.

TOP TIP

Make sure to surround the edges of your balcony with towels to protect against runoff.

TIP 1. Make it a sensory experience. Great lighting is key as well as adding fresh scents to your space with fragrant flowers and potted plants. Herbs are a great option, too.

2. Once cleaned, declutter the balcony.

Getting rid of unnecessary clutter will free up the space and give the balcony a fresh and more spacious feel.

3. Outdoor furniture will completely transform your space. Why not add an artificial grass “mat” or a statement rug.

Pair these with lanterns and candles to create ambience.

IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Clean walls, doors and railings. Getting your balcony spruced-up means ensuring that you’ve given it a proper clean. The best way to do this is to start with your walls, glass doors, railings and outdoor furniture. The glass doors must be done with a squeegee, working in an “S” motion to minimise streaking. To clean the walls of the balcony, fill a bucket with warm water and a degreasing or all-purpose cleaning solution. You can allow this to air dry.

Clean all accessories. If you’ve used an outdoor grill or BBQ of any sort, it has likely left grease or stains in its place.

You can use a concentrated detergent and stiff brush to remove grease stains.

Others recommend using kitty litter, crushing it over the stains and allowing it to stand overnight.

Clean floors. Once all the surrounding surfaces have been cleaned, sweep the balcony floor with a hard bristle broom and then mop with a scrub brush. The SUMMER 2021

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MAINTAIN THE GREEN To maximise the benefits of your outdoor spaces for those sunny days, bring your backyard or garden back to its pre-dry-month glory. Start by weeding, pruning, mulching, and fertilising your yard.

Clear tall grasses. Cut all the grass and small plants using a line trimmer.

Take out the large waste. Focus on taking out large waste and debris first.

Remove boulders, rocks, tree branches, and any trash that may have been blown over the fence. Try to do a clean sweep by beginning at one end and moving gradually to the other end.

TOP TIP

Create three piles for your waste: a pile for compost, one for recycling and the other for absolute disposal or garbage.

Trim shrubs and overgrown trees. Next, you should cut down branches from overgrown trees and shrubs. To trim larger branches, use a portable chainsaw while smaller branches may be cut with a tree shear. You can also use shears or electric clippers to trim overgrown hedges. After doing this, use a rake to remove debris and dead leaves under them. This is important because dead leaves will invite bacteria and mould, which could increase the risk of infection on the shrubs.

Mow the lawn. Take out your lawnmower and sharpen the blades so they deliver a very clean cut. Dull blades should not be used to trim your lawn because they can damage it and make the surface uneven.

MORE THINGS TO DO

Blast away grime. As with your balcony, a

good sweep with a sturdy broom is good, but for your larger outdoor spaces, you may find a pressure washer the ideal tool. It cleans a wide range of surfaces from patios, decks and sidewalks to windows and tables. When cleaning these surfaces, it’s important to find a power washer that can cut through the grime and rinse it away.

The textiles. When last did you clean

your outdoor rugs, umbrellas and pillows? Outdoor textiles often take a beating from the elements. Freshen up often-overlooked things such as outdoor rugs (even artificial grass “mats”), lawn furniture cushions, pillows and umbrellas. Vacuuming may effectively remove hidden leaves, bugs or dirt, but it is recommended that a deeper cleanse be done where needed.

Lights and accessories. Light fixtures undoubtedly collect dust and dirt very quickly. Deep clean dust from lantern and light fixtures, and scrub as needed, and where necessary, grab a scrub brush and some soapy water to brighten up other items such as decorative pieces, concrete and wooden planters and flower pots.

IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Wrought iron furniture or accessories. Take the time to bring

these items back to their former glory by rinsing, scrubbing and brushing dirt away from your wrought iron, metal, aluminium or wicker furniture. If needed, apply a fresh coat of sealant or add a layer of rust-preventive paint. The same applies to other surfaces with finishes that may be chipped and dull. P

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TIP 1. Define your spaces. If you have a large outdoor space that feels a little disjointed, consider ways you can carve out specific spaces where the kids can play games or where the family gathers to enjoy a braai.

Add comfortable furniture or rugs and pillows for alfresco socialising.

2. Lighting is an instant mood creator. Add lanterns, fairy lights and or candles to create a festive atmosphere for that get-together.

3. If you do not have enough space for a lap pool, why not install a splash pool, above-ground portable pool or hot tub.

4. Plant native flowers or succulents (they can help save water).

Landscaping can create great outdoor spaces. And adding a DIY lattice wall with trailing vines can create private and wind-free Introducing Double Velvet (well, almost Pure – with air purifying wind-free) spaces.

technology

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PATIO PALLET CRATE

DIY 101

YOU WILL NEED: • One pallet (four planks), sizes: 4 x 600mm (two for the bottom and two for the long sides); 2 x 205mm (short sides) • Brass wood screws (4mm) x 24 • Wood glue • Length of rope • Sandpaper/sanding discs (80 and 120 grit) • Chalk paint (2/3 colours of your choice) • Paintbrushes • A small foam roller • Stencil (optional) • A sponge (for stencilling) • Microfibre cloth • Clear chalk paint topcoat or sealer

TOOLS: • Jigsaw • Sander

Pretty

HANDY TIME

2–3 hours

COST

Under R150

SKILL HIIII

ASSISTANT No

• Electric drill with 4mm countersink drill bits and a 10mm drill bit • Cordless screwdriver • Wood planer (optional) • Angle grinder (optional)

HERE’S HOW:

A nifty way to display succulents or use for entertainment accessories.

By Gina Hartoog

T

urning unwanted items into new products is both creative and good for the planet. Pallets are easy to find and inexpensive and can be used to create fun, rustic looking items for the home and garden.

Although we did sand down the planks before cutting, we left knots and small nicks in the wood to create a more rustic, weathered look to suit our patio decor. This versatile patio pallet crate can be used for any display or entertainment purposes.

NOTE This project uses four planks. If you buy one pallet, you’ll have plenty of wood left over for other upcycling projects.

1 Disassemble the pallet by removing the brackets, nails and screws.

2 Sand down all planks. We used an orbital sander with an 80-grit sanding disc at this step.

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DIY 101

PATIO PALLET CRATE

3 (Optional) One of the planks was very rough. To smooth it, we used a flap disc on an angle grinder. Always use safety glasses when working with an angle grinder.

6 4 Measure the planks and cut to size. With four lengths of 600mm each, you can use the offcuts for the 205mm short side planks.

Next, measure for the screw holes. For the short side planks, mark four holes at the bottom of the plank and two on the sides. Exact measurements aren’t critical, but check that you miss the space between the two bottom planks. Drill the holes. We used a 4mm countersink drill bit.

7 5 (Optional) We planed the ends of the planks for a smoother finish.

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Measure and drill the holes for the rope handles. We placed ours 50mm from the side and 20mm from the top of the crate. We used a 10mm drill bit. Drill holes on both short side planks.

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8 Measure space for four holes evenly along the bottom of the two long side planks.

12 Inside the crate. You can choose to leave the wood raw or finish with two coats of chalk paint as we have done.

13

Apply wood glue along the bottom of all four sides and assemble the crate.

Finish 1: Whitewash To make whitewash, mix white or cream chalk paint and water to the ratio of 1:3 (translucent) or 1:1 (darker). Use a sponge to apply the whitewash to the wood, working it into the grain. A whitewash enhances the wood grain, allowing it to pull through the finish. Seal with chalk paint topcoat or sealer.

10

Finish 2: Two colours Apply a coat of chalk paint in the colour of your choice. We used the same colour as the inside of the crate. Allow to dry.

Once dry, sand down the outside of the crate using 80-grit sandpaper to roughen up the chalk paint layer. If you sand more deeply, the raw wood will pull through, creating a rustic look.

9

14a

Insert the screws and tighten. Allow the glue to dry.

11 Fill the screw holes with wood filler. Once the wood filler is completely dry, sand down the crate using a 120-grit sanding disc for a smooth finish.

14b

Next, use chalk paint in a second colour. Use a brush and apply the paint intermittently along the plank. Use a paintbrush (or cloth) to work the second colour into the base colour until you are satisfied with the look.

Once completely dry, sand lightly with 120-grit sandpaper.

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DIY 101

PATIO PALLET CRATE

15a Finish 3: Three colours Apply the two colours as above. Next, add a third colour. We chose a silver metallic acrylic to give the work a slight shimmer. Apply the paint intermittently along the plank and work in as indicated above. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake. Chalk paint is easy to work with and if you aren’t happy with the look, overcoat and try again. Seal with chalk paint topcoat or sealer.

17

Our completed patio pallet crate. P

15b The final look with three colours.

16 Once completely dry, add the rope handles.

28

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If you use your patio pallet crate for entertaining, add some chalkboard labels (R30 for six at The Crazy Store) to label your snacks or add messages for your guests.

The labels are self-adhesive and easy to peel off after the festivities.

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

PARTY IDEA

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ADVERTORIAL

INGCO does it again!

INGCO continues to innovate and impress with the introduction of the recently added industrial 810W, 13mm chuck Impact Drill to its impact range.

M

ore powerful than its predecessor (the 750W Impact Drill), the 810W Impact Drill’s variable speed functionality, selected by adjusting the speed control wheel, allows you to drive the screw in at your own comfortable pace and enable you to stop it before it buries itself too deep.

With an option of a lower speed, the drill allows you to align the screw more accurately, which will prevent it from drilling off at an angle.

For masonry drilling always select the impact action (hammer symbol), and when drilling wood, metal or plastic, select the drilling symbol.

The drill’s action selector switch is easily located on the top part of the drill’s body, and features a symbol on either side of the selector switch to help the user select the correct action.

INGCO is on track to become a leading tools brand globally by continuously delivering innovative, high-technology and high-quality products at the lowest prices.

INGCO – “Professional Tools Made Affordable” P

Scan this QR code to go directly to the INGCO website.

For more information LIKE OUR FACEBOOK PAGE @ingcosouthafrica www.ingco.co.za

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DIY 101

SIMPLE SPACE-MAKERS

Give me room

TO WORK!

T

he shelf inserts featured here are made from offcuts from the bedside cupboard we featured a couple of issues back, and the workbench space-maker makes use of some offcuts from other projects. So, the materials list depends very much on what you decide to make, which materials you use and the size you decide upon.

Sometimes all the odds and ends on your work surface leave you with little space to work. Make this very simple extension that you clamp into your bench vice to free up space on the work surface.

This space-maker is a 330x500mm piece of 19mm thick laminated board, giving you 1 650cm2 extra space for those screws, tools and other bits you’ll be needing.

TIME

Depends on how many space-makers you make and in what forms

COST

Again, it depends, it can be minimal or even zero

SKILL HHIII

ASSISTANT No

YOU WILL NEED:

HERE’S HOW:

• Length of laminated board • Length of 32x32mm SA pine for use as braces • Wood glue • 40mm wood screws

TOOLS:

4 1

Clamp the brace firmly in position.

• Drill/driver • Hacksaw • Jigsaw or circular cut-off saw • Pliers

Cut a central brace to fit across the board – 320x330mm or so and position it at the centreline of the board.

• Flat blade screwdriver

NOTE It is not intended for heavy work and needs to be very securely clamped into your bench vice.

5 Secure it with 40mm screws driven in through the top of the work surface and into the brace. Ensure they are all countersunk below the surface.

2 Use a square to mark off the brace’s attachment position.

6 2 Apply wood glue between the lines.

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I attached a second brace at the midpoint between the central brace and the end of the board, using glue and screws to secure it as per the central brace.

7 Job done. There is quite a bit of extra space and because there are two braces, you can bias the board to either side, making it it just that little more versatile. P

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Tidy up those

SHELVES AND CREATE

T

MORE SPACE

hose aluminium foil, wax wrap, sandwich wrap rolls in our kitchen cupboards tend to roll. Here’s a handy shelf insert to keep them right where you need them, stacked up by type, and free up space.

This rack is made from offcuts from the above-mentioned bedside cupboard, plus four 10mmØ dowels.

TIME

Depends on how many space-makers you make and in what forms

COST

Again, it depends, it can be minimal or even zero

SKILL HHIII

ASSISTANT No

HERE’S HOW: YOU WILL NEED:

• 16mm thick MDF – two pieces 145x380mm • Four 10mmØ dowels cut from 1m dowel rods to fit within the shelf, each dowel in this case is 272mm

1 Messy, but very easily sorted.

5

• Wood glue (optional – the dowels fit tightly and leaving them unglued means you can adjust them later on if necessary)

Use a gauge or a pencil to mark the positions for the drill holes. They must be set in about 12–15mm from the edge so that there is sufficient material between the edge and the dowel to keep it firmly in position.

2

I find it best to drill the first hole, tap in a dowel, then drill the second, and repeat, and then drill the last two holes.

This ensures that all four holes are exactly aligned.

8

Cut the MDF to the required lengths.

6 3

I positioned the dowels about 50mm back from each end as well so that shorter rolls would still be contained.

9 Now comes the careful part. As mentioned above, the dowels fit very snugly so you need to tap them through the MDF pieces a little at a time, keeping the MDF pieces aligned. If they go out of kilter, you will either break a dowel, or break one or more out of the MDF.

Check the distance between the shelves and cut the dowels to fit. It is best to cut one, check the length is correct, and then cut the other three.

7 4 Use a 10mmØ brad bit to drill the dowel holes.

The four dowels must line up exactly, so clamp both MDF pieces together as shown, with your drilling positions on the top piece. Then drill the holes, ensuring that you are drilling at a perfect 90° vertical. Drill right through both pieces of MDF.

Job done!

The rolls are neatly stacked. P

10 EasyDIY

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DIY 101

SIMPLE SPACE-MAKERS

TIME

Not such A JARRING IDEA

Depends on how many space-makers you make and in what forms

COST

Again, it depends, it can be minimal or even zero

A simple idea to add some storage space under a cupboard. This solution is not intended for heavy items, only small loads such as plastic (not glass) jars of screws and panel pins.

SKILL HIIII

HERE’S HOW:

ASSISTANT No

YOU WILL NEED: • Jars • Cup hooks • Screw eyes • 20mm washers • Nylon/plastic wall plugs

For jars that will hang under the cupboard, drill a 4mmØ hole in the centre of the lid of the jar.

6 A view from the top. The screw eye’s position allows it to be hooked on to a cup hook on a vertical surface, this wouldn’t be possible if the screw eye was centred in the lid.

2 These are the components you will be using: the screw eye, lid, washer and wall plug. Instead of a wall plug you can use a small block of wood, but that will reduce the jar’s capacity. The washer will spread the load over a larger area of the lid.

(If you do use a block of wood, the washer will be superfluous.)

4 Screw a cup hook into the underside of the cupboard.

7

5

3 A view of the underside of the lid. The plug holds the screw eye quite securely.

32

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For a jar hung on a vertical surface, using the washer as a guide, drill the hole near the side of the lid.

Here it is mounted to the outside of a cupboard door. If you do it this way, hang the jars on the hinge side of the door, this ensures the weight on the hinges is almost vertically downwards.

If hung on the side opposite the hinges, the weight of the jars creates a turning moment on the hinges, putting extra stress on the top one in particular. P

The materials for all the space-makers are available at selected Mica stores. To find your closest Mica, go to www.mica.co.za. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need, they will order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

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LOCKING BOLTS

DIY 101

YOU WILL NEED: • Sliding door lock twin-pack, or single pack(s) as desired • One or two joiners or joining plates – 35x97x2mm – depending on the number of locks you use • 40mm securing screws for joiners – four if installing a single lock, eight if installing two, as featured here *You may wish to buy extra keys. These can be cut at shops providing such services or you can buy the exact keys you need – each one bears an identification number. Just match the numbers and you’re sorted.

Boost your

SECURITY

TOOLS: • • • • •

Drill/driver Chisel or utility knife Hacksaw Pliers Mallet or hammer

HERE’S HOW:

FOR A PITTANCE

Sliding door locks are designed to lock sliding doors, either fully closed or with a small opening. However, they can also be used to secure hinged doors, such as your front door out to your patio or that from your kitchen to the outside – and doing so doesn’t cost too much. By Rod Baker

TIME

1–2 hours

COST R160

SKILL HHHII

ASSISTANT No

O

rdinary non-lockable barrel bolts are very good, but they can be opened very easily if near a spot where they can be reached by the hand on the end of an arm or a pole, for example, by breaking a windowpane. Some – particularly those designed for use on garden gates – can be locked with a padlock, but that can be a bit unsightly in the home. One solution is to use a bolt that can be locked, so even if a hand does reach it, it cannot be opened.

Sliding door locks won’t break the bank. The total cost of the twin-pack locks and strike plates (the jointers – see the materials list), and the securing screws shown here cost just on R160. You can buy single-pack locks, but if you do, they will have different keys, which can lead to tension if you need to open them in a hurry. However, you can order “like-keyed” bolts through a hardware store. The way I did it was the most economical.

NOTE Don’t leave the keys in the locks. Make sure they are stored well out of reach and out of sight from anyone peering in from outside.

1 This is an ordinary barrel bolt with a cranked barrel to suit it for use on French doors. But it can be easily released and is not lockable.

2 A selection of galvanised steel bolts (100mm, 150mm and 200mm), which can be locked using a padlock, but this type is usually what you will see on a garden gate and, if they are secured with screws, can be removed.

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DIY 101

LOCKING BOLTS

3

These are the parts of a barrel bolt.

Variations of these bolts may have flat barrels and be galvanised or zinc-plated steel, brass, chromed steel and so on. Door bolts slide across doors or windows to complement locks and enhance security. These bolts have several alternative names, including barrel bolts, flush bolts, gate bolts, and rack bolts, and in their various forms can be found just about anywhere there are doors, gates and/or windows to be secured.

6 These plates are 2mm thick and designed for very heavy duty in construction, so they are more than strong enough for this purpose. You will need to trim it down, so the first step is to line it up with the door jamb and the lock barrel to ensure that the latter is centred on the 10mmØ hole in the joiner. I marked the position line on the right and the cut line on the left with a soluble marker, the markings can be wiped off after fitting.

7

4 This particular sliding door lock was supplied with its strike plate/keep/catch, which is secured to the door jamb with two 40mm screws.

Clamp the joiner horizontally in a vice and, using a hacksaw, cut into the surface until you can flex and then break it off with a pair of pliers.

10 For a neater finish, I clamped both joiners between scrap wood and filed the cut edges down flat.

11 8

5 In our case, however, our twin-pack did not come with the keep/catch. That’s where the joining plates came into their own. What makes this choice of plate even better is that they are predrilled with 10mmØ holes for securing bolts – and these holes are ideal for the lock barrel. By the way, those eyelet fastener males – the lower one is just to the left of the two keys, the second one is at the top right, right next to the two lock-securing screws – are slipped over the barrel during fitting and help to ensure you position the joiner properly. Thereafter, they can be discarded. Another plus with the twin-pack is that it is like-keyed and comes with four identical keys.

The keys for this type of lock are most commonly double-sided, which means they can be inserted either way and will work.

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Do a dry fit to ensure you have got everything trimmed properly.

9 Now use the first trimmed joiner as a template for the second and cut it to length in the same way.

I used countersunk screws so that their heads would not jam the door, and as the holes in the joiner are not bevelled, the screw head stands proud as shown here. That could cause problems if the door expands in wet weather.

12 I used a 10mmØ HSS drill bit, designed for drilling through metals and woods, to bevel the screw attachment holes.

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21 13 The bevelling is clearer here and you can see how the screw head in the unbevelled hole on the left (bevelling not necessary here as it will not have any screws driven through it) stands prouder than the screw head in the bevel hole right next to it.

17 Then I used the craft knife – carefully – to shave wood out from between the boundary cuts. Do this slowly, a little at a time, and carefully. Finally, seat the joiner in the recess, remove extra wood if necessary, and then using the craft knife, check that the outer surface of the joiner is flush with the door jamb surface.

Notice that the lower lock is well beyond the reach of any hand to reach it through the dog hatch. And even if a hand did reach it, it is locked. It is also out of view of anyone looking in from outside. So they may see the main door lock handle and perhaps even the upper lock, but not the lower one, which, is positioned at about the height someone trying to kick the door in might land their foot – again, making it that more difficult to gain access.

14 I used masking tape to correctly align the joiner, then I used two 16mm screws to temporarily fix it in position. This allowed me to shut the door and check that everything was correctly aligned.

18 Ready to secure the joiner. I used some petroleum jelly on each screw to make it easier to drive the screws into the wood.

22 The two locks installed; the two joiners are quite large, but not an eyesore, but if you wish, you can make them less obvious by painting them to match the door and jamb.

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Then, with the joiner still temporarily secured in place, I used the craft knife to make the boundary cuts for the recess I was going to cut for it. This ensures that the recess you make for the plate will be an exact fit.

19 Drive the screws in top left … bottom right … bottom left … top right. I usually drive them in until they are snug, confirm the joiner is exactly where it needs to be, and then fully tighten the screws.

16 That done, I drilled the pilot holes for the other two attachment screws. I then removed the temporary 16mm screws and drilled the second pair of pilot holes for the other two attachment screws.

20 I was a bit liberal with the jelly, but it will help prevent rust as well.

23 Locked up tight and more secure than before. The idea is that the more work any potential intruder has to do to gain entry, the more time there is for you to call for help, and there is also a better chance that the potential intruder will simply give up. Basically, it’s a case of three or five locks are better than one. P These materials are available at selected Mica stores. To find your closest Mica store, go to www.mica.co.za. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need, they will be able to order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

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SHOE STORAGE

Say good-bye to

SHOE STORAGE

HASSLES

Shoes are usually consigned to the bottom of a cupboard, which can make it a bit of a mission to extract those at the very back.

This simple unit takes care of that. By Rod Baker

TIME

2–3 days

COST R350

SKILL HHHII

ASSISTANT No

T

his unit, which comprises a slide-in unit and two tray-like drawers, not only increases your shoe storage space, but also makes it easier to get hard-to-reach footwear from the back of the bottom of your cupboard.

This unit uses a pair of drawer roller slides for each shoe tray. Roller slides are sold in pairs, each side of a pair comprises two parts: the sliding main member strut that attaches to the drawer or, in this case, the shoe tray; and the fixed cabinet drawer strut that is secured to the unit body. These slides are not fixed together and are separate – until fixed in position to the drawer or tray and the cabinet or unit body, respectively.

Then the two components of each work together giving you a drawer that slides in and out freely.

DIY 101

YOU WILL NEED: • MDF – 9 x 600x600mm – four sheets • MDF corner reinforcements, four strips 40x512mm • Drawer runners – 500mm x two pairs • 16mm chipboard screws (pack of 50) • Wood glue • 25mm panel pins x 6 • Doorknobs x 2, plus attachment screws. *This unit has two shoe trays. If you have a larger shoe tray spacing and wish to add an extra shoe tray (or a smaller shoe tray gap and just one shoe tray), then adapt the material list accordingly.

TOOLS: • Drill/driver • Circular cut-off saw • Hammer

HERE’S HOW:

1 The way we were. Those at the front, easy to get; those at the back, not so much.

NOTE The drawer width must be correct for the space into which it will slide – too narrow and it will fall out; too small and the slides will bind or even jam.

2 Measure the space – in this case, 350mm high.

This illustration gives a good idea of how the tray is quite a bit narrower – 25mm – than the distance between the corner reinforcements.

3 The width can be a little trickier … total width in this case is 475mm. However …

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SHOE STORAGE I had some 16mm offcuts from earlier projects and used these as corner reinforcements as the drawer trays, sides and base are all 9mm thick MDF, which does not give the securing screws good purchase.

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4

5 The sides are 200mm high and 512mm long and are cut as shown here with a circular cut-off saw.

6 As the sides were cut from one sheet of 9mm MDF, they had to be trimmed to length. The easiest way is to shove them into the cupboard to their fullest extent and mark off the cutting line.

9 I glued two corner reinforcements along the top and lower edges of the sides and clamped them together.

10 I reinforced each corner reinforcement on each side with four 16mm screws per reinforcement.

The unit base was cut and checked in the same way – taking care to ensure that it would fit past the cupboard door.

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With the roller end secured, position the opposite end (the scrap of wood allows for precise positioning). Repeat the process with the last three runners. These runners have a downward slope at the end so that the sliding tray component goes slightly “downhill” as the tray is pushed home. This stops it sliding out until physically pulled out.

14 With the fixed components all secured, I attached the sides to the base, using glue and 16mm screws to secure the joins.

11 I laid out both sides and orientated the runners before attaching them … notice how one pair mirrors the other.

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7

40

13

With the sides positioned next to each other and lined up, line up the first pair of runners as shown.

Then secure each with a single 16mm screw at the roller end.

This illustration shows how the base and sides are secured.

15 The unit base was cut and checked in the same way – taking care to ensure that it would fit past the cupboard door.

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I made an allowance for the door hinge, which protrudes into the cupboard by 32mm. Take this into account because if you make the unit the full width of the space, you will not be able to either get it into position or slide the drawer trays out. The cupboard depth is 512mm, and I made full use of the entire depth.

DIY 101

SHOE STORAGE

21 One of the attachment screws fixing the sliding tray component to the tray underside.

27 The storage body slid in easily and I clamped it against the cupboard divider, flush with the leading edge of the divider.

16 Note its positioning and sizing, important to ensure the full closure of the trays.

22 I reinforced the front of the fixed slider attachment with some extra screws as this end takes more of the strain when the tray is fully open.

28 Then I secured it with that single screw.

17 I secured the join with glue and 25mm panel pins.

23 Now the doorknobs. The attachment screws were too long, so I gripped the end in a vice grip and cut off the last 10mm. Don’t worry if the thread on the end of the screw gets damaged, it gets discarded.

29 Both trays open.

18 With the sliding components of one tray in their fixed section, I cut and dry-fitted a tray base, checking that there is sufficient lateral play for full and free movement to ensure that the sliding component engages fully with its fixed slider component.

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The tips of the 16mm screws securing the slider are long enough to penetrate the upper surface of the tray base, so I cut four 15mm wide lengths of MDF and attached them to the upper left and right edge of the tray base to ensure the 16mm screws have full purchase.

20

At the same time, I cut and glued a backstop on each tray to stop shoes falling off the end of the tray should it be pulled out too rapidly.

24 The doorknob was fitted in the centre and 20mm back from the front of the tray.

The lower one open, making it easier to reach the desired pair.

30

25 This unit is secured with just one screw to the divider side of the cupboard. I predrilled the hole through the right-hand side of the unit at the midpoint between the two trays.

26

Almost ready to go in … the shoe storage body (left) and its two shoe trays.

31 Now fully closed … more and neater storage and no need to dig around in the dark recesses of your cupboard. P These materials are available at selected Mica stores. To find your closest Mica, go to www.mica.co.za. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need, they will order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

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Workshop

PLUMBING FIXES

No need to go

PLUMB CRAZY Here is some general information on temporary plumbing fixes until you can call in the professionals. By Rod Baker

YOU WILL NEED: • Tools, as per the images • Thread tape • Sealant • Washers • Hose clamps • Duct tape

TIME

Depends on the problem

COST Minimal

SKILL HHHII

ASSISTANT

Possibly, to let you know how far to restrict the mains water supply after making your temporary repair.

HERE’S HOW:

1 A selection of tools typically used in plumbing.

The plunger at the top for unblocking toilets and basin or bath drains; thread tape, on the left, to seal the threads on threaded components; the spanner, pipe wrench and pipe pliers are frequently required, as are the pliers. The pipe cutter, centre right, gives you very accurate results. The valve dresser (bottom left) is used to clean up the face on which your tap washer closes in the tap body, and the screwdriver’s use is obvious.

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2 A basin wrench is available in different shaft lengths, this example is a 300mm and is used to tighten the securing back nut (the nut under the basin, bath or sink rim) and secure the tap so that when you operate the tap, it doesn’t rotate as you open or close it. Basin wrenches have spring-loaded reversible jaws so that you can tighten or loosen the back nut.

3 This sink waste cleaner is 3.6m long and is used to unclog blocked sink drains. The handle allows the user to rotate it, the screw tip then snags debris blocking the drain.

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4 Similar to the sink waste cleaner, this mini-snake is used to unblock basin drains. It is 500mm long and its hooked tip is designed to snag hair deposits and other bits of debris so that they can be dragged out through the basin’s plughole.

Workshop

8 If you suspect a leak on your property, first close all taps, including toilet water supply taps and your geyser cold-water supply. Also turn off your dishwasher and washing machine and their water supply. Open your water meter cover and check if the black six-spoked disk is turning. If it is, you have a leak somewhere in the mains supply from your meter to your house system. Carefully check for any water escaping from any visible pipes, such as those running up the outer walls of your house, and for any excessively damp areas of soil in your garden.

If you have found a leak and think you can repair it, turn off the stopcock … just visible at the screwdriver’s tip. It is very difficult to get to, but you can close it using a spanner. Turn it clockwise to close – so that the bar is at 90° to the pipe.

5 Basin, bath and kitchen sink drains are gravity-fed and their PVC fittings do not require brute force when being tightened … an ordinary kitchen strap opener/wrench is quite sufficient.

6 When sealing a thread with thread tape, wind the tape around the thread in the direction the fitting will be turned on to it. Hold the pipe in your left hand and wind away from your body.

This illustration shows the stopcock in the shut and open positions.

Tighten two hose clamps tightly and directly over the leak. Turn the mains stopcock on, but only about halfway. This will reduce the water flow, so that even if the temporary repair is not 100 per cent effective at least the water loss is reduced.

9

If you’ve found a leak in a pipe and don’t have a coupling, there are some ways to make a strictly temporary repair. You will need a permanent repair by a qualified plumber as soon as possible.

First, turn off the water supply and make a mark on either side of the leak (depicted here by the black dot between the two lines. The latter ensures that you can correctly position the temporary repair directly over the leak).

7 Keep a good selection of replacement washers for your various taps, cisterns, and garden tap fittings.

Here we show some large cistern flat washers on the left, a range of tap washers in the middle, and several O-rings for taps and garden hose fittings on the right.

11

12 10 Wind a length of duct tape tightly around the pipe – at least 3–4 turns.

No hose clamps? Then clamp two short pieces of wood together and using a spade bit, drill a hole of the same diameter of the pipe between the two.

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PLUMBING FIXES

These materials are available at selected Mica stores. To find your closest Mica, go to www.mica.co.za. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need, they will order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

13 Drill a hole on either side for the securing bolts and slip the two pieces of wood over the pipe – position it directly over the leak. Tighten the bolts to lock the temporary repair very tightly onto the pipe.

16

19

If you’ve got a leak in an irrigation pipe, you can plug it with a tapered piece of wood, shaped to fit the puncture and driven into the hole. When the irrigation system runs, the water will cause the wood insert to swell and seal the leak, or at least reduce it.

Or the same, with a hose clamp to seal the leak.

14 Provided you drilled a hole that matches the pipe diameter, the wood cells will absorb the water leaking out, swell, and seal the repair – to some extent at least.

20 17

Cut the pipe at the leak and then insert both pipe ends into a connector.

A toothpick also works very well for pinhole leaks.

Use washers under the nuts so that you can really tighten them. If you do not have a spade bit of the correct size, but larger, then use that and duct tape to seal the leak. These are both temporary repairs so turn the water supply off completely, only opening it when necessary, then turn off again immediately thereafter.

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21 18 Duct tape again … wound tightly around the pipe and secured with closely spaced wire.

All the above tips can also be used on hosepipe leaks. In this case, the hosepipe was cut at the leak and two connectors fitted. The male connector then joins the two.

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15

22 Pictured here are a typical tap’s parts, from left: cap blue for cold water, (red for hot water), handle retaining screw, handle, cover, spindle, tap body, and cover plate. Some handle retaining screws, usually older style, are positioned horizontally below the handle arms and lock against a flattened portion of the tap spindle to lock the handle in place and allow the tap to be opened and closed.

23

A close-up of a spindle. The washer is mounted on what is called a jumper and may be secured with a nut, depending on the design of the tap.

Over time, the washer can become deformed through repeated opening and shutting of the tap and will need to be replaced. First, turn off the water supply and disassemble the tap, removing the handle securing screw, handle, and then the spindle assembly. Lay the parts out in order as you disassemble the tap, so that you can reassemble it in reverse order. Simply pry the washer off the jumper (or unscrew the nut and pull the washer off). Replace it with a new one and then reassemble the tap in the reverse order to the disassembly.

25 Then …

• Disengage the float arm by removing its securing pin.

• Unscrew the large knurled nut holding the float arm in position. This frees up the whole mechanism body.

• Pry the diaphragm away from the nozzle with a screwdriver.

• Clean the unit.

• Drape a piece of cloth over the end of the cylinder and turn the water on for a few seconds to remove any dirt from the inlet.

• Insert the new diaphragm, replace the knurled nut and tighten it by hand, firmly, but not so tight that removing it again becomes a problem.

• Turn on the water supply.

• Check that when the water rises to the desired level, it shuts off the supply and there is no leakage into the bowl. If there is, then change the flat washer.

• Turn off the supply again, flush the toilet, unhook the plunger from the flush handle lever and rotate the flushing mechanism counter-clockwise through about 45° (it has three lugs that lock it in place). It will then be free, remove it, replace the flat washer (see 7, above), reattach the plunger body by rotating it clockwise, reattach the flush handle arm, and turn on the water.

26 24

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A telltale sign that a toilet cistern washer, diaphragm or flat washer (which seals the cistern outlet into the bowl) needs replacing is a constant “hiss” or ripples on the surface of the water in the pan. First, turn off the water supply to the cistern and flush the toilet – it’s easier to work with the cistern empty.

This is a brass-type cistern ball valve. It employs a very small flat washer to seal the inlet. This washer is mounted at the end of the plunger body and secured with a small cap. To replace the washer: • Turn off the water supply to the cistern and flush it.

• Remove the cap (top right in the picture) if there is one.

• Close the ends of the split pin that acts as a pivot for the float arm and remove it.

• Manoeuvre the arm free, using it to pull the piston towards the open end of the cylinder.

NOTE Before reassembling the tap, ensure that the spindle is in the fully open position. Then screw the spindle into the tap body and tighten it. Only then close the tap. If the spindle is in the closed position, you risk crushing the washer against its seating and might not be able to fully tighten the spindle. When turning the tap off now, and during use, do not overtighten it and undo the work you have just completed, forcing you to change the washer yet again.

• Remove the piston. Hint: If you cannot grip it with a pair of pliers, push it back in, put the lid back on the cistern and turn the tap on for a second on two. The jet of water will often push the piston out far enough for you to grip it.

• While the piston is out, use fine sandpaper on a length of dowel to remove any calcium or other deposits in the cylinder, and if the piston is brass, clean it as well. Replace the cistern lid and turn the water supply on for a second or two to blast out any debris in the inlet pipe.

• Using a cloth to protect the surface, and a pair of pliers and pipe pliers, unscrew the top of the piston, remove the old washer, insert the replacement and reassemble the piston.

• Position the washer with the slot for the float arm directly downwards, and insert it into the cylinder.

• Manoeuvre the float arm into position.

You can only do so if the slot in the piston is positioned correctly.

• Re-insert the split pin and spread the ends slightly with a flat blade screwdriver blade to prevent it falling out.

• Turn on the water and raise the float arm, checking that the water entering the cistern stops flowing.

• If you find the water in the cistern does not come up to the same level as before, it’s because the new washer is unworn and a little thicker than the old one where it meets the nozzle.

• If necessary, bend the float arm up a little – be very careful to hold the plunger end firmly, without moving it. If you bend it up by pulling the float up, you risk damaging the new washer or even breaking or bending the float arm elbow that moves the piston.

27 The various float arm components and flush lever for the diaphragm-type unit.

28 A sink drainage system for a double sink. These nuts need not be tightened to extinction, using a kitchen strap wrench is sufficient. P

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Guide to

FIRE SAFETY

How to fireproof your

HOME THIS SUMMER With the advent of summer, there is increased risk of fires breaking out in and around the home, Orlando Luis, CEO of Brights Hardware, provides a list of a few crucial ways to make sure your home is protected

COOKING

1. For starters, clear your roof and gutters of dead leaves, debris, and pine needles that could catch fire. Embers from a fire can travel a long way and land on your roof.

Also, have your chimney cleaned once a year.

2. Check the overhead power lines at and close to your home and ensure that they can’t be damaged by falling tree branches.

3. Move any flammable materials, such as mulch, plants, leaves, and firewood piles, away from the walls of your home. Clear around other structures too, such as garden sheds, making sure to get rid of any dry grass, weeds and debris.

4. Create a fireproof barrier around your house. Gravel and concrete, such as driveways and patios, help create a firebreak. You can also use small, fire-retardant plants that grow close to the ground.

In addition to the steps suggested above for protecting the outside of your home, you should also look to your interior and your behaviours to ensure you are fire-smart this summer.

FINDING HELP

All Brights Hardware stores have on-site experts to provide advice and guidance on items needed to fireproof your home.

“Whether you are looking to upgrade your electrical wiring, buy new extension cords, purchase fire extinguishers and smoke detectors, or want to invest in safer, more modern appliances, our knowledgeable staff members can provide you with all the product insights and information that you need,” says Orlando Luis of Brights Hardware.

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CANDLES If you use candles during load shedding, be aware of their potential danger.

Candles are basically just a mini open flame in the middle of your house.

If you light one, keep these fire safety tips in mind: • Keep candles away from anything that could catch fire.

• Never leave a candle burning when you go to bed or leave the house.

• Don’t leave children unattended with candles (or matches and lighters).

• Make sure the candle has a sturdy base or is in a candle holder so that it cannot fall over.

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Gravel or concrete patios and driveways create firebreaks around the home.

It has been reported that the leading reason fires start in the kitchen is unattended cooking, and most fires involve the stovetop.

To stay safe when you are cooking: • Keep flammable items, such as kitchen towels, food packaging, and wooden utensils, away from flames and hot stovetops.

• Stay in the kitchen when using the stovetop and make sure that you are at home when the oven is being used.

• Keep young children away from the stove and oven, particularly when cooking on the stovetop.

• Have an easily accessible fire extinguisher in the kitchen.

EXTRA PRECAUTIONS

ELECTRICAL Electricity has made our lives convenient in so many ways that it is easy to forget it can actually be hazardous if something goes wrong – such as faulty wiring.

Stay out of harm’s way by following these suggestions for home electrical safety: • Plug in just one appliance to an outlet at a time.

• Never run electrical cords under carpets or doorways. And never use old, damaged leads. Uncoil extension leads when not in use, and don’t use long leads that are coiled on reels for short distances as the cables have a tendency to warm up more when looped over each other.

• Use light bulbs that match the recommended wattage for the item you are using. Light bulbs in lamps and nightlights can also get hot enough to set things on fire, particularly fabric. So make sure nothing is too close to the bulb part of a lamp.

But it is not always our obvious actions or sources that cause a fire. Here is a list of other hazards in the home that many people might not be aware of:

DUST Seemingly innocent dust bunnies are fire hazards when they are close to light or heat sources. Make sure you keep your home clean to avoid dust build-up. Also, declutter your home – the more stuff you have, the easier it is for a fire to spread.

LAPTOP COMPUTERS Always keep your laptop on a desk or table while it is on – never on a couch or bed. If the vents meant to keep it cool are blocked, it can overheat and lead to a fire.

TOASTER CRUMBS Clean out the inside of your toaster regularly. Hard, toasted breadcrumbs lying in the bottom of the toaster are extremely flammable. Do not use any metal objects to extract the toasted breadcrumbs and ensure that the toaster is unplugged before working on it.

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HEATED HAIR STYLING DEVICES If left too close to bathroom towels or clothing while on or still hot, these can start a fire that quickly moves to the rest of the house.

VASES An unusual risk that many people don’t consider is a glass vase in a sunny window. It may look pretty, but it is a magnifying device. If the hot summer sun reflects off the glass and onto a curtain or couch, it could start a fire. P

Luis advises that there are several extra precautions you can take to increase safety.

“The first thing is to purchase a fire extinguisher – one of the most effective ways to fireproof your home. A fire extinguisher can put out a fire quickly before it rapidly spreads throughout your house. Keeping a fire extinguisher in an easy-to-reach place is important. Also ensure that they are serviced regularly to be in optimal working condition,” he says.

“Installing smoke detectors throughout your home is another highly recommended way of avoiding a runaway house fire,” says Luis. He advises that when buying smoke alarms, you need to check that the product is certified or SABS approved. “The best place to install smoke alarms is on the ceiling in all the rooms of your home. Make sure that you regularly clean them and change the betteries twice a year. It is also a good idea to test your smoke detectors from time to time.

“Have a plan. You should know the best ways to exit your house. Try to have at least two ways to get out of every room. Also, check to make sure your escape routes are viable. For instance, you may not be able to get out of a window if it doesn’t open. Draw an evacuation escape route diagram for the home so that the entire family know what to do and where to go in the event of a fire.”

PRODUCT TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS The items below are all available at your nearest Brights store or through the online store.

• To clean gutters, roofs, and properties of leaves purchase a Ryobi electric blower/vacuum and mulching machine for R599.

• To trim back overhanging branches and overgrown bushes purchase a Ryobi 18-V battery-operated chain saw for R3 000.

• To further clean up longer grass and overgrown weeds purchase a lawnmower and/or brushcutter – R2 000 each.

This price excludes the batteries, both these machines operate off two batteries as they are 36V. Batteries are interchangeable.

• To create a fireproof zone around your home purchase 13mm or 19mm stone at R799 per cubic metre.

• Fire extinguishers start at R199 for a 1kg cylinder and range up to 9kg cylinders for R599.

• A fire blanket is a good item to keep in the kitchen in case of stove or oven fires, and retails for R175.

• Small portable, battery-operated smoke detector alarms are available at R125 each.

• Use Flash 30 LED, 1.8W 3.7V Li-ion rechargeable lights at R99 instead of candles. *Please note that pricing on all of these items can fluctuate without notice. For more information or to browse the online store for current pricing, visit www.brights.co.za or visit your nearest Brights branch for more assistance.

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Guide to

MOSQUITO-PROOFING

Bid the BLOODSUCKERS BYE-BYE It’s summer, time to take your entertaining outdoors, but how do you keep those annoying mosquitoes from turning your relaxing, balmy summer evenings into a frenzy of slapping and ducking and diving? By Brenda Bryden

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f you want to enjoy your evenings outdoors without being plagued by mosquitoes, the most effective way is to install mosquito netting around your patio to create an impenetrable barrier. And, it’s not that difficult, here are two ways to do it.

YOU WILL NEED: • Roll(s) of gauze fibre mesh 1.2m wide • Aluminium or wood cover strips (option 1) • Masonry drill bit (if attaching to concrete frames) • Wall plugs and screws (for concrete) • Wood drill bit (if attaching to wooden frames) • Nail in anchor 6 x 35 fittings (for wood) – comes with the plug and screw (option1) • Curtain rods and fittings (option 2)

TOOLS: • Hacksaw • Wood saw • Hammer • Screwdriver • Utility knife • Hot glue gun

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TIME

4-6 hours

COST

+-R1 000.00

SKILL ★★✩✩✩

ASSISTANT

Yes, to help you keep netting unrolled and held in place.

HERE’S HOW OPTION 1: 1. Depending on the frame/posts of your patio you will need to measure and cut either aluminium or wood cover strips to fit the framework/posts. Alternatively, measure first and then ask your hardware supplier to cut to size. Aluminium cover strips come in 2.5m lengths and wood cover strips in 2.4m strips.

2. Then roll out the netting and cut to size with the utility knife.

3. Drill pilot holes into the concrete posts. Fit wall plugs. For timber frames, mark where you want to drill the holes for the nail in anchor fittings.

4. Take the precut mosquito netting and hold up against the wooden or concrete posts/frames, allow an extra 5mm above where you will fit the cover strips. Get your assistant to hold it taut.

5. Now place the cover strips over the netting and using the screwdriver secure the aluminium cover strip with the screws. For the wood cover strips, drill holes through the cover strip into the supporting timber frame, then hammer in the nail in anchor fittings through the cover strip and the frame. The mosquito netting is now firmly secured.

6. Trim any excess.

HERE’S HOW OPTION 2: 1. Measure the frames/posts to which you will attach the curtain rods.

2. Cut curtain rods to size (or use made-to-fit depending on the size.)

3. Drill holes for curtain rods using masonry bits if attaching to concrete or wood drill bits if attaching to timber.

4. Screw curtain rods to frames/posts.

5. Unroll the mosquito netting and cut to size but add 40mm extra at the top. Fold over the 40mm to create a reinforced 20mm and hot glue it the full length of the seam.

6. Cut 30mm strips of the netting to create curtain top tabs of 15mm each, when folded. Hot glue these on each side of the reinforced seam to create curtain top tabs.

7. Slide curtain rings onto the curtain rods, hang the mosquito netting (like a curtain) by sliding the tabs onto the rod.

8. Attach the finials to the curtain rod.

TOP TIP

Black mosquito fibre gauze netting is the best choice.

It is durable, mostly see-through, reduces glare from the sun and is less likely to stain.

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Guide to - Mosquito net.indd 51

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Guide to

MOSQUITO-PROOFING

Apart from installing mosquito netting around your patio area, you can also do the following to keep them away from your entertainment area: • Builders stock the Coolaroo Flyscreen (1.3x1.5m), which comes with velcro strips. The material is stretchable and can be cut to size. Use a hot glue gun to attach the velcro strips to the wooden or concrete frame and the netting.

• You can also purchase magnetised flyscreens 960x2.18m, which are autoclosing and magnetised on all sides for R160 from Builders.

You can attach several of these to your posts and frames by adding aluminium cover strips (see above) to anywhere you want the magnets to attach.

• For a quick installation of mosquito netting if you have softwood frames/posts, you can use a heavy-duty staple gun to secure the netting to the wood. The staples will not damage the netting, but will leave the tiniest holes.

• Remove any standing water, female mosquitoes lay eggs in and around water that is not flowing. Empty any outdoor item that holds water, for example, buckets, wheelbarrows, flower pots and drip trays. Regularly clean garden features like birdbaths, ponds and fountains and refill with fresh water, or add a pump to keep the water circulating. If you’ve got water pooling anywhere, use a hard broom to sweep it away. Also, check and unclog your gutters.

• Keep your filter coffee grounds and scatter them anywhere where you may have pooling water. Mosquito larvae will be starved of oxygen and die before they hatch.

• Fill your garden area closest to your patio with mosquito-repelling plants such as mint, lemon balm, lemongrass, catnip, basil, marigold, rosemary and lavender – their scents and oils help to keep mosquitoes at bay. Place a few pots inside your entertainment area too.

• Keep a fan going – the movement of air keeps mosquitoes flying and they won’t settle on your skin for a nibble. You can also buy tabletop fans to keep both flies and mosquitoes away from your food ( R75–R500 depending on the model from hardware and online stores).

• Burn citronella candles or light citronella garden torches outside the patio area, the scent and the smoke deters mosquitoes and, as a bonus, adds atmosphere to your outdoor entertainment area. Be careful when burning these in windy conditions in case of flying sparks, which could start a fire.

• Purchase an electrical ultraviolet insect killer. The UV light attracts night-flying insects and then zaps them when they touch the grid.

Available from online shops, hardware stores and hypermarkets.

You can also get standalone battery-operated mosquito killer lamps in a range of designs. Prices vary according to the model you select.

• Replace your outdoor light bulbs with an antimosquito LED light bulb, from R75 at online and hardware stores. Plus, they’re energy-efficient. You can also use any yellow light bulbs in your outdoor light fixtures – mosquitoes are attracted to white light, but tend to shy away from warm–toned lights.

• Install a bat house in your garden, a medium-sized bat house can accommodate about 50 bats that can eat thousands of mosquitoes nightly.

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Guide to - Mosquito net.indd 52

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