wanted AUGUST / 2022 SHADES OF femininity
While femininity can be soft, demure, and smiling — if it chooses to — it is far more dynamic than these archaic, restrictive prescripts
Behind the MnguniLlewellynscenes:attheFemininityshoot
It is a violent gauntlet to which, I have no doubt, my foolish younger self contributed. I may not know much more than I did then, but this particular lesson is deeply entrenched and I dare not ask my 7-year-old daughter, let alone a grown woman, to smile. If we are to take away anything from this issue, it is that we can never reinforce enough the idea that while femininity can be soft, demure, and I t was unsurprising that, over hard lockdown in 2020, I decided to try intermittent fasting. After all, along with the mainstreaming of banana bread and the rapid evolution of Zoom from a relatively obscure app into a verb, health and fitness took centre stage. Like many a middle-aged former athlete stuck at home, I was reinspired to find a functional level of fitness and rediscover, through “no gym required” calisthenic movements, the six-pack of my youth, lurking beneath years of midnight binges and single malts. My diet hack of choice, among the many unsolicited shortcuts from pop-up nutritionists on TikTok, via Instagram, was the 16-hour fast. Quite astonishingly — because my record in keeping to a consistent health routine is as sketchy as Russian wartime promises — I have kept up the fast, 4-5 days a week, and look forward to breaking it (sometimes at the desperate end of “hangry”) at 11.30am. Recently, as I arrived at the staff canteen with an empty tank and thoughts of mass murder, I was struck by how the usually friendly face behind the counter stared at me with what looked like disappointment. “We have a new rule here,” she said. “We do not serve anyone unless they smile. Please give us a smile.” I was taken aback by the request, but just as quickly amused, charmed even — and duly obliged. As I wolfed down my sandwich and orange quarters, the irony of this interaction was not lost on me. From the time they can barely walk, girls are bombarded with this request — or, in most cases, demand — from parents, siblings, aunts, uncles, pastors, cops, bosses, strangers in the street, and, in the case of retired gymnast Gabby Douglas, male television commentators, as Danielle Bowler reflects in her essay “‘Practicing’ Refusal” (p. 20). smiling — if it chooses to — it is far more dynamic than these archaic, restrictive prescripts. I trust that it will further drive home that femininity has nothing to do with age, race, sex, gender, or sexual orientation. It is as fierce as rural mothers with skin burned by years of toiling at open fires, under a vicious sun, and as enterprising as our aunties running informal businesses that put their and their siblings’ children through school. As resilient as the queens who take head-on daily cocktails of misogyny, transphobia, and homophobia. It lives confidently in accomplished, childfree women who challenge the reductive ideas that essentialise womanhood around bearing children. And it sings in the young urban women who debunk the tired stereotypes of a male-engineered “slay culture”’ that presupposes their inability to get the bag on their own. It is the kind of femininity to be celebrated, from August to eternity.
ED’S LETTER08 / 2022 04 Smiling optional EDITOR. IMAGES SUPPLIED
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Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “Woodland”. Ref. 3891: “Woodland”, a shade of dark green inspired by the flying suits of pilots at the TOP GUN aviation school, is a newly developed colour ceramic from IWC. The dial and rubber strap, complete with textile inlay, are perfectly colour-matched with the light, scratch-resistant ceramic case, assuring this TOP GUN Chronograph with its IWC-manufactured 69380 calibre of its spectacular monochrome appearance. IWC. ENGINEERING DREAMS. SINCE 1868. IWC-manufactured 69380 calibre · 46-hour power reserve · Day & Date display · Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds · Water-resistant 6 bar · Diameter 44.5 mm DOWNLOAD THE IWC APP FOR VIRTUAL TRY-ON IWC TOP GUN. IWC Schaffhausen, Switzerland · www.iwc.com
20 Cover: Shirt, R23 195, Burberry EDITOR Siphiwe Mpye (mpyes@arena.africa) CREATIVE DIRECTOR Anna Lineveldt MANAGING(lineveldta@arena.africa)EDITOR Suzy Josephson 072 598 9282 (josephsons@arena.africa) JUNIOR DESIGNERS Carike de Jager and Manelisi Dabata SUBEDITOR Iolandi Pool FASHION DIRECTOR Sharon Armstrong FASHION(armstrongs@arena.africa)EDITOR Sahil Harilal BEAUTY EDITOR Nokubonga Thusi (thusin@arena.africa) FASHION INTERN Nombuso Kumalo DÉCOR DIRECTOR Leana Schoeman (leanas@sundaytimes.co.za) GROUP MOTORING EDITOR Denis Droppa FINAL(droppad@arena.africa)EYE Elizabeth Sleith DIGITAL EDITOR Yamkela Mdaka (mdakay@arena.africa) EDITORIAL INTERN Declan Gibbon ACTING BUSINESS DAY EDITOR Tiisetso Motsoeneng HEAD: ADVERTISING SALES Eben Gewers GROUP CEO Mzi Malunga GENERAL MANAGER: LUXURY Yvonne Shaff 082 903 5641 ( shaffy@arena.africa) ACCOUNT MANAGER Johannesburg Tamara Nicholson 083 604 ACCOUNT(nicholsont@arena.africa)0949MANAGERWesternCape Samantha Pienaar 082 889 ACCOUNT(pienaars@arena.africa)0366MANAGERDurban Gina van de Wall 083 500 (vdewallg@arena.africa)5325 Wanted is available with Business Day ArenaPRINTEDSubscriptionnationwide.enquiries:0860525200byPaarlMediaforHoldings,HillonEmpire,16EmpireRoad(cnrEmpireandHillsideroads),Parktown,Johannesburg,2193 22 24 26 33 w Choker, R17 500; dress, R45 000, both Dolce & Gabbana The audacious act of embracing our vulnerability Screen star Amanda Seyfried on style, expression, and identity How to take your time-out to the next level, at home or away We celebrate the many faces of femininity Single marketofstealthwomen’stakeovertheproperty BuchananReece
STOCKIST 7808326011GABBANA&DOLCE 08 / 2022 08 photographer Judd van Rensburg production Sahil Harilal Embellished blazer, R560 000, Dolce & Gabbana OBJET bendsLight to the alchemical will of Dolce & Gabbana in their latest couture-inspired offering for SS22
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WATCHES08 / 2022 10 IMAGES SUPPLIED text Gary Cotterell
TUDOR RANGER Consider yourself a contemporary explorer? Tudor has just the timepiece for your off-the-grid adventures in the new Ranger M79950. This robust looker with its 39mm satin-brushed steel case is inspired by the Ranger 7995 from the 1960s and celebrates the 70th anniversary of the British North Greenland expedition of 1952-54 — the icy testing ground of the Tudor Oyster Prince that informed the original Ranger design. Features include bold painted Arabic numerals and a unique hand design, and a COSC-certified MT5402 automatic movement inside with 70 hours’ power reserve. Waterproof to 100m. Available on Nato-style and hybrid leatherrubber straps or a steel bracelet. From R46 340, tudorwatch.com or Rolex Watch Co SA 011 784 9230
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outh Korean visual artist JeongMee Yoon has been exploring gender socialisation and identity since 2005 through her insightful work in “The Pink and Blue Project”. JeongMee’s colourful photographic studies also highlight the relationship between gender and global consumerism. “The saccharine, confectionery-pink objects that fill my images of little girls and their accessories reveal a pervasive and culturally manipulated expression of ‘femininity’ and a desire to be seen,” Breaking down gender stereotypes,watchfully she explains in her artist’s statement, reflecting on the project inspired by her five-year-old daughter’s obsession with the colour. During her early research, JeongMee discovered that “pink was once a colour associated with masculinity”: a diluted version of red with the same powers. In the early 1900s, an advert in a US newspaper advised mothers to “use pink for the boy and blue for the girl, if you are a follower of convention”. With post-World War 2 mass consumerism, political correctness, and advertising came the reversal of these colour associations, along with the genderconforming stereotypes and hypersuperficial messaging linked to them. Yet, while the idea of femininity is constantly evolving, the pink and blue items, with their archaic, socially imposed symbolism and content, continue to dominate shopping sites and aisles. Fortunately, there is a growing societal challenge to these conventions and gender norms. Even in the traditional industry of watchmaking, where anything feminine used to be associated with frivolity, we’ve seen a shift away from the assumptions of what women want from their timepieces. While diamond-encrusted jewellery watches are not about to disappear, we do see an acknowledgement from brands of the desire for mechanical pieces suited to changing lifestyles and attitudes, shared across gender lines. These lines might be blurring, but ultimately your size or dialcolour preference has less to do with your gender and more to do with your interests, comfort, attitude, and personal style. I think we’ve heard enough about men on the moon, or Mars, for that matter, so it is refreshing to see the more inclusive lineup of novelties from Omega this year. The featured 29mm 18k Sedna Gold Constellation Aventurine blue edition is the latest novelty in a collection that has long been Omega’s symbol of precision. Its origins date back to the early 1900s and the era of observatory trials — once the Academy Awards of chronometry — where Omega set the first of numerous world records. The first Constellation model was launched in 1952, with its characteristic 12-segment “pie-pan” domed dial. The Manhattan models from 1982 introduced the look we know today, with notable features including the four claws, facetted barrel-shaped case, and indexes on the bezel. While the claws at 3 and 9 o’clock are now a decorative feature, they were once functional clamps to compress the gaskets at the case back and glass to improve water resistance. There is nothing frivolous about a watch bearing the name Constellation and featuring a ring of Top Wesselton white diamonds on its bezel and hour markers offset against the natural blue gemstone dial of our featured watch. Marking time are the gold skeletonised hour and minute hands, while a gold-ringed window at 6 o’clock displays the date. Supplying the power is a Co-Axial Master Chronometer calibre 8701, visible through the domed sapphire crystal case back. Water-resistant to 50m. R372 000, omegawatches.com
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BREITLING SUPEROCEAN The redesigned Breitling Superocean dive watch is bold and crisp, offering maximised legibility at depth, where it counts. Taking a cue from the no-nonsense “Slow Motion” model of the 1960s, new novelties feature chunky luminescent indexes, squared-off hands, and a high-contrast dial ring. Modern elements bringing freshness include the ceramicinlayed bezel and colourful dials, such as this intense turquoise 36mm edition on matching rubber strap or steel bracelet. Also available in 42, 44, and 46mm models in steel, steel and gold, and bronze, featuring the automatic Breitling Caliber 17. With water resistance to 300m they will serve you well, from ocean to table. From R80 800, breitling.com or Breitling Boutique 011 883 2286
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The fanciful spirit that has been present in the Hermès Arceau since 1978 is captured in this playful diorama of exquisitely crafted animals striking a pose. Artisans have created the whimsical, colourful composition through fine marquetry, miniature painting, and engraving, and it is framed by a bezel set with 82 diamonds. Inside its 38mm rose-gold case is the manufacture H1912 automatic movement.mechanicalFeaturing its characteristic single stirrupshaped lug, the Hermès Arceau Story is presented on a white alligator-leather strap. POA, hermes.com or Picot & Moss 011 669 0500
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The effectMagugu ans of Byredo, this is not a drill — Byredo Makeup has launched in South Africa. If you already love this brand’s bath,fragrancesluxuriousandhome,andbody offerings, the makeup collection should be next on your list. With packaging that references both the past and future, the collection designscurvaceous,featuresfree-formandbeaten, mixed-metal finishes. Our favourites have to be the thateyeshadoweasy-to-blendpigmentshaveasoft,almost melt-under-your-finger formulation and high colour payoff, and the invisible lip liner that goes with every lip shade and stops colour bleed. Eyeshadow 5 Colours in Sciomancer, R1 235; Byredo Eyeshadow 5 Colours in Dysco, R1 235; Byredo Lipstick in Lascaux, R785; Byredo Colour Stick Set in Chin of Gold, Sick Pink, La Scène, R1 590; Byredo Lip Liner Invisible, R535, exclusively at skins.co.za F
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WANTED:MOST I t seems that everything Thebe Magugu touches turns into fashion gold, and the adidas x Thebe Magugu debut collection is no exception. The exciting, two-part collaboration with the sportswear brand combines adidas’s recyclable ofDrawingandheritage,passiondesignstechnologymaterialandiconicwithMagugu’sforSouthAfricancommunity,thewomeninhislife.ontheenergywomenwhomhe finds infinitely inspiring — his mother, aunt, and grandmother — the collection is joyful, celebratory, and inclusive, comprising both performance and lifestyle pieces featuring a signature abstract print with punchy colours. Look forward to inclusive sizing ranging right up to 4XL, gender-neutral pieces, and reimagined adidas hero staples. The first collection drop launches on 15 August. adidas.co.za adidasbrandportswear and Gucci stores right now, the adidas x Gucci collection is a masterclass in collaboration that sees the two brand legacies merging not only their iconic aesthetics but also their house emblems to create a fabrics.future-consciousmensilhouettesintoareasclassiceachthemeAfashionsports-inspiredretro,fantasy.play-on-stripesrunsthroughgarment,andstaplessuchthetracksuitreimaginedcontemporaryforandwomenin Sandton City, 011 3267 928 gucci.comX GUCCI 03.
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JEWELS08 / 2022 14
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1. Chopard It’s taken just a few years for Happy Hearts to become something of a Chopard icon. These necklaces, featuring clusters of multicoloured mother-of-pearl hearts set in 18kt rose gold, are one of the most effective examples of this extensive range. We love that they’re just as pretty as they are distinctive. Available on order, POR. bhhboutique.co.za 04.
These jewels may be feminine and dainty, but they’re also verybig on style
4. Graff
The floral motif has long been part of Graff’s heritage. Its Wild Flower collection is a fresh interpretation of the flower that is both contemporary and delicate. The diamond sautoir necklace, R770 000, from the collection is set in white gold and has a total weight of 4.85ct. This could completely transform even the simplest of LBDs. graff.com SUPPLIED 02.
2. Messika Chic and delicate, the Baby Move Pavé bracelet, R46 550, is handcrafted from 18kt pink gold and adorned with a sprinkling of diamonds. Part of Messika House’s signature Move collection, it’s the ideal companion for the feminine wrist with its pared-down graphic style, delicate chain, and the addition of three more prominent stones, typical of the design of this collection. bhhboutique.co.za
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It’s BTW for the WFH, but whither the CFP?
text Sizakele Marutlulle GUEST COLUMN.
eager to drive team-bonding by forcing all to “turn on cameras”. Grhhhh. The BTW call isn’t “adding joy”. Absence, in this case, did not make hearts grow fonder. As one who helps leaders build businesses,future-readyIameager to see what is around the bend. Hopefully, not Covid 2.0 or Bumble Swindler 4.0, but rather a reform of these destinations of commerce into inclusive spaces for human beings (in all their myriad forms). That’s not a lot to ask, right? Wrong! It turns out that some “woke” leaders are champions of linguistic gymnastics. The pressure on workers to pretzel themselves into being “culture fit” remains. Whose culture? What is a fit? If we are as colourful as the rainbow, then work culture cannot be a onesize-fits-all. For all the ways in which “work” advances in perceptually democratic ways, the lived reality differs — especially for those who are in marginalised communities... worked and what didn’t, micro-managers struggled to evaluate productivity over the interweb (as my mom calls it), and CEOs served shareholders “pivots” or “reframed” the old version, buffed to a Mr Min shine. The tensions are real — leaders want to justify high rentals for high-rises and workers can’t seem to vibe with the 60-minute commute, rising petrol prices, and angry yellow-line-busting taxi drivers. Working from home, they learned to recite asanas in their proper Sanskrit names and to “Namaste” that one colleague overly
Herein I insert a motivation for my tribe: “the childfree female professional” (akaChildfreenessCFP). among women has garnered attention globally. However, little is said about the CFP in our wonderful and wounded land. Bodily autonomy is enshrined in our constitution, yet scant attention is paid to the CFP — whether at work or in amapiano tracks, movies, reality shows, or big-brand ads, they are MIA, dololo, as in nada, nix! Instead, the childfree female is often stereotyped, a demonised figure too sad to be fun/ny and too selfish and ambitious to be caring. At worst, she’s the pitiful one for whom options, which were once plump grapes, have now shrunk like raisins in the sun. I can see the head of People/HR rushing to review policies to find that one line that mentions the childfree as a specialinterest group... Mmhhh, it’s not there. Therefore, please lower the volume on the “you can bring your whole self to work” vibes and fix this omission. How dare you speak DEI (diversity, equity, and inclusion) and yet not see this erasure as a slight? Would I start a revolt by suggesting in my outside voice that CFPs should
08 / 2022
DOWN TO BUSINESS use this “oversight” as a bargaining chip and refuse the BTW call? After all, if HR really wants folks to “live the values” and “walk the talk”, as well as “attract and retain best-inclass female talent”, then best they craft policy to embrace all sorts, parents and childfree alike. HR can influence the workplace culture of inclusivity so that it’s imbedded as everyday organisational practice. And here’s the clincher — the erasure of the childfree is not just a matter of feminism; it also affects the survival of organisations. The skills, intellect, and experiences that exit the organisation when the childfree feel unseen and/or are reproshamed* are crucial to the efforts of any commercial enterprise to prosper. It also flies against the efforts of BBBEE (you know this one). Now, more than ever, our country needs all shoulders to the wheel to kick our economy back to life. Maybe not full throttle yet, but at least the heartbeat can register on an ECG machine. A luta continua... * A term I’ve coined: the childfree are repro-shamed based on their reproductive choices and negatively stereotyped as defective, selfish, shallow, and unfulfilled.
M any abouthappeningationsconvers-are“back to work” (aka BTW) after Covid-19’s interruption and the “work-from-home” (aka WFH) of the past two years. Employees learned self”theirbringingemployees’theneedCompanieswhattowalktalkon“wholetowork
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THE NEW ALL - ELECTRIC
“PRACTICING” and somehow seeif she can pull it together”
“S he has historically struggled with“Sheconsistency.”justwants to be done, get off the balance beam, and somehow see if she can pull it together.” “She does better when she’s smiling; now, I noticed in that shot right there she wasn’t smiling, so we need to get that smile back on her face.”
REFUSAL 08 / 2022 20 THE READ text
“She’snotsmiling”
“She does better whenshe’ssmiling”“She just wantstobe done, get off the balance beam,
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THE READ
A chorus of voices spills from four speakers. My body is contained within their slight semi-circle, in a self-created surround sound made necessary by a loud art gallery. It’s the opening day of Thenjiwe Niki Nkosi’s “Landings” exhibition at Stevenson in Cape Town. With my back turned to the crowd, I strain to translate sounds into sentences, but as I begin to make them out, the words land on my skin and seep into it. It’s an Withinundoing.seconds I’m alone, in a small room containing a single painting. I’ve rushed to this refuge as the dam wall within breaks and I’m left astonished at what an artwork can do: confront you with the world, with yourself. Chorus, an immersive sound installation Nkosi created with collaborator Dion Monti, is crafted from “television commentary, behind-the-scenes conversations, and the ambient sounds of the gymnasium” – in response to Black US gymnast Gabby Douglas’s routine in particular. The installation charges the gallery and the paintings on the wall. As it loops, intermittently, its function is similar to that of turning on the lights — as though it makes the paintings of Black gymnasts in scenes of tender touch, community, and togetherness vibrate at an amplified frequency.Itsresonant power transforms an arts writer into a girl forced to face the glare of a gaze that demands excellence and trained behaviour — the insistent repetition of what it means to be feminine; made Other in so many ways. I’ve heard the narrative in Chorus expressed many times, by different bodies and mouths, on the journey from child to adult. It’s become familiar, internalised, rote. And the effect of hearing the sound work in the context of the exhibition — in the same room as the piece Adjustments, where a Black woman lovingly ties a girl’s hair ribbon — is to realise what underscores the need for touch, intimacy, and the communal: the gendered and raced threats, demands,
ssehS“’miling”
Tumbling out from those speakers is everything I’ve learned about the demands of femininity, race, excellence, and performance in the everyday. As these athletes show us, it’s a system that rewards those playing by its rules, but that also ensures there is neither guarantee nor safety, not even in executing the highest level of performance. In its glare, we always fall short and fail, as we strive towards a perpetually shifting horizon of being accepted, loved, seen, deemed enough, acknowledged. The room I retreat to on opening day holds the red-hued Twisties, a painting clearly referencing the terrifying condition Biles struggled with at the 2021 Olympics, in which gymnasts feel “a disconnect between… mind and body” and don’t know where their body is The audacious act
“twisties”our ofvulnerableand mid-air, or how to land safely. I wonder how the demands placed on our raced, gendered performances create our own sense of “twisties” every day, and how we remind ourselves which way is up, and where we find a ***landing.
21 2022 / 08 expectations, and requirements created by white supremacist, heterosexual, cisgender patriarchy that reach into our lives and spill out onto the gymnasium floor. It affects us all, in different yet denied, or given only in part, with conditions attached. Seeing Nkosi’s paintings on the wall, I think of some of the Black women she registers — in particular, Simone Biles, who invokes thoughts of Serena Williams, who brings up Caster Semenya, who calls on Naomi Osaka, and more, against the backdrop of the demanded performance of gender within their sporting excellence.
Sitting across the table from a close friend in a loud bar, we discuss our lives in detailed anecdotes. Hard things spill from our mouths, chased with food and drink, as we talk about what consumes us. Our friendship nears a decade, and we find, in this moment of our relationship, a new softness in each other, an honesty and a truth. We can, in other words, be ourselves — we are each other’s landings. And it’s taken time, breaking through walls and the limited performance of ourselves for Andothers.Iwonder, how did we get this way? Where did we learn that softness was a thing to be concealed, layered like a perpetual winter, when we could just stand in the sun and see each other in the light, instead? My friend gently urges me to be softer, in many ways, and as a writer too. The running narrative of the instructions of gendered performance, learned over years, is what undid me, as I listened to Nkosi’s sound work. Even approaching this page, I’ve learned to fear what it means to be soft and tender — something denied to so many of us at the intersection of race, gender, religion, and culture — and wonder what image to place before you instead. Rewriting the narratives inscribed on our bodies is a palimpsestic task — you’re writing on top of writing on top of writing that might have been erased but is always present. The scripts of society, as Gqola phrases them, are never silent. But in seeing them clearly, space opens up for play, imagination, and a refusal of theirI’mterms.enamoured with the term “‘practicing’ refusal”. Black feminist theorist of visual culture and contemporary art Tina Campt describes it as “everyday practices of struggle often obscured by an emphasis on collective acts of resistance”. It’s a journey, a practice, and a constant learning of new ways to be, think, feel, exist, resist. Nkosi’s work in “Landings” is such a practice, as is Biles’s decision to withdraw from the Olympics, as is even the seemingly simple act of sitting across from a dear friend, in a loud bar, daring to be soft with each other. And I feel it here, too, in making a landing now, on this page. unveiling
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S ince Pennsylvania native Amanda Seyfried landed her first contract acting role as Lucy Montgomery in As the World Turns (2000) and had her breakthrough performance as Karen Smith in Mean Girls (2004), she has given a range of noteworthy performances. Her 20-year career has seen her play a bride-to-be searching for her father (Mamma Mia!, 2008), an escort (Chloe, 2009), a young woman in love (Dear John, 2010), and the world’s first adult film star, abused by the industry and her coercive husband (Lovelace, 2013), among many others. Seyfried received Academy Award and Golden Globe nominations for her portrayal of Marion Davies, a Broadway actress and mistress to newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst, in the critically acclaimed Mank. She now stars as Julie, who struggles with post-partum depression, in A Mouthful of Air, and as Elizabeth Holmes, founder of the medical testing startup Theranos, in the mini-series The Dropout Behind the glitz and glam, Seyfried says she’s just a farm girl, who prefers a natural look without makeup (as demonstrated in our Zoom interview). But she will apply eye shadow, mascara, and lipstick (nothing on her skin, which can appear almost translucent) when she goes to the theatre because “it does enhance your features” and “it’s really fun to gloss yourself
FACESMANYup”. AMANDAOFSEYFRIEDThescreenfemininities,starstyle, INTERVIEW THE The screen femininities,starstyle, INTERVIEW
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Seyfried wearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Dazzling Shooting Star speaks her mind about variedexpression, and identity text Debbie Hathway At home on her farm in upstate New York, which she shares with husband Thomas Sadoski and their two children, her peonies are her pride and joy. “This time on the farm is really special,” she says. (Follow her @mingey on Instagram to learn Amongmore.)her various roles, I wonder which ones have brought out her feminine best. “I think of Elizabeth Holmes, even though she, from my perspective, has a complicated relationship with her femininity. She definitely used it when she needed to and tried to hide it when she felt she needed to, which is not the way I live my life. But I understood where she was coming from. And that contrast in playing her, and then coming home to myself, I think that actually is the role. “Of course, playing Marion Davies and wearing those meant-to-look-old costume dresses and costume jewellery and the time spent on the makeup and that elegance… I don’t know if she was the most feminine. I think she was more respectful and appreciative of, and intimate with, her body than you would think by looking at her. She wears a majorette costume at the end of a scene with a marching band, which felt more feminine than anything — she was wearing pants because that was empowering! That was what women did. They wore pants. We forget that.”
O n femininity, Seyfried says, “Being feminine is really owning your body and appreciating it. It’s the sexiest thing in the world. It’s just being intimate with yourself in every way. Femininity isn’t about any dress or specific makeup look. Femininity to me is about doing what you want with it, wearing what you want and not letting it wear you… I mean, I’m a mom, so I’ve seen my body do all sorts of things. And I can do anything I want with it, I don’t care. Wear wide pants and a tight top, or a suit. It doesn’t matter. It can make me feel uber-feminine because of the way I walk and the way it makes me feel when I’m wearing it. The short answer is, I like my body. I like myself.” Interestingly, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Friend of the Brand wears what “is a masculine watch in theory [the JaegerLeCoultre Master Ultra Thin]. Whatever makes me feel empowered makes me feel feminine and makes me feel beautiful. The Master is a daytime watch for me, and I wear it for a night-time event with a really bad-ass outfit, like an Oscar de la Renta. It’s powerful and sexy. I also wear the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, which has a secret etching of my dog on the case back. A watch is jewellery to me… so I love having the watch face, the look, and the time. I just love the way it’s made. Each piece has its own meaning and its own special use.”
As for the Jaeger-LeCoultre RendezVous, “It is something to behold. I’m a farm girl, right? You look at that watch when it’s not on you and you think, ‘I hope it doesn’t wear me.’ But I f****ng wore that watch. I think the sexiest, best time to wear it is with jeans and a T-shirt and big chunky diamond earrings. It’s, like, a casual look and an incredibly not-casual arm. “The Rendez-Vous is the least connected to where I am in my daily life — that, I think, is the unpredictable element that makes it so much fun to wear. It’s incredibly special, and that’s what makes it work.”
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There’s a pamper party going on, and you’re invited to indulge in these must-try
TREATMENT TO TRY: WELNAMIS DEEP RELAXATION If it’s good enough for the Ritz-Carlton and Vogue, it’s good enough for us. The Welnamis Deep Relaxation concept bed — a first of its kind in South Africa and only available at the Cloud 9 Boutique Hotel and Spa in Cape Town — is unlike anything you’ve ever experienced. This futuristic-looking, water-filled bed uses a combination of gentle sound waves, a vibration massage system, and the techniques of meditation and mindfulness to help you achieve deep relaxation; slowing down brain activity and aligning the body’s energies. If you’re not sleeping well, struggling to relax, or just feeling burnt out, this bed will come as a godsend — you’ll wish you had one at home, all thanks to Binaural Acoustic & Dynamic Stimulation, the computer-controlled acoustic and vibrational therapy used in the Welnamis. Thanks to four settings — stress relief, mindfulness, awareness, and power nap — you can target exactly what your body needs, and then it’s night-night for the next 30 minutes. Amazingly, you’ll feel as though you’ve gotten eight hours of high-quality sleep. Welnamis Deep Relaxation, 30 mins, R595 hotelcloudnine.com
THERAPY IN 1.3.
There’s a pamper party going on, and you’re invited to indulge in these must-try
1. Psammotherapy Gold Quartz Signature Treatment 2. Abalone Hotel & Villas 3. Welnamis Deep Relaxation text Nokubonga Thusi 2. FEATURE
FEATURE08 / 2022 24 W e could all probably use some self-care to distract us from the world’s troubles right now. Between coping with the non-stop dailyness of our lives (which can be a bit wearying, at times), dealing with seemingly constant challenges to women’s rights — see the aftermath of the overturning of Roe v Wade in the US, for example — and fighting for gender equality, an escape to a haven of relaxation and pampering, whether at home or elsewhere, is somewhat of a necessity. It may not cure all the world’s problems, but it can certainly help recharge your batteries to fight another day. Whether you’re looking at treating a special person in your life or keeping all the pampering for yourself, these getaways, innovative treatments, and luxurious products set the tone for a month of indulgence.
2022 /08 4.6. 7. 8. 10. 9. IMAGES SUPPLIED DO TRY AT HOME: SPLURGEWORTHY SKIN PAMPERING We know this is a bit of an extravagance, but can you really put a price on self-care? When it comes to luxurious at-home pampering, we put our trust in the technologically advanced formulations and impeccable design of La Prairie’s Pure Gold Radiance Nocturnal Balm. This reenergising balm uses texture and massage therapy to enrich your nightly skincare ritual. The design stays true to the brand’s sustainability commitment, with replaceable glass vials and a three-layered vessel housing a marble massage stone, used in the energising ritual to stimulate microcirculation and lymphatic flow. The balm’s nutrient-rich formula uses La Prairie’s exclusive Pure Gold Diffusion System to help re-energise, strengthen, and restructure devitalised skin. La Prairie Pure Gold Radiance Nocturnal Balm 60ml, R21 040
1. Jo Malone Vitamin E Body Treatment Scrub, R1 350 2. Molton Brown Labdanum Dusk Bath & Shower Gel 300ml, R575 3. Le Labo Rose 31 Body Oil 118ml, R1 215 4. Fornasetti Scented Candle Bacio 1.9kg, R9 275 RETREAT TO: PATERNOSTER, WESTERN CAPE Sometimes getting away from it all is just what the doctor ordered — change is as good as a holiday, right? So, book a trip to one of the Western Cape’s best-known “hidden” gems — Paternoster. The quaint fishing town on the west coast is a mere two-hour drive from Cape Town International Airport, and feels like a mini Greece with its whitewashed cottages and old-school fishing boats. Stay at the luxurious five-star Abalone Hotel & Villas and enjoy quiet time with SESSION treatments, retreats, and products to elevate all your self-care sessions
4. Jo Malone London Vitamin E Body Treatment Scrub 5. La Prairie Pure Gold Radiance Nocturnal Balm 6. Biomedcan CBD Dark Chocolate & Milk Chocolate 7. Fornasetti Scented Candle Bacio 8. Le Labo Rose 31 Body Oil 9. Byredo Open Sky EDP 10. Molton Brown Labdanum Dusk Bath & Shower Gel
TREATMENT TO QUARTZPSAMMOTHERAPYTRY:GOLDTREATMENT
If you have 60 minutes to spare, run — don’t walk — to a Psammotherapy Gold Quartz treatment. It is multi-sensorial, luxurious, and holistically transformative, giving your body no option but to sink into total relaxation. Inspired by the ancient Greeks (psammo is Greek for sand), who used sun-heated sand to treat rheumatic, arthritic, and respiratory conditions, psammotherapy is a thermal treatment that uses gold quartz sand, singing bowls, and traditional massage techniques to encourage balance, harmony, and relaxation. Mimicking the sensation of lying on a sandy beach, the trough-shaped bed is filled with warm gold-quartz sand. The therapist moulds the sand around the contours of your body and elevates your wrists, ankles, and feet on small mounds of quartz sand. This is followed by a full-body massage to ease tension and stimulate lymphatic drainage. Finally, the bed’s built-in massage component is activated, making the sand the perfect massage medium to work out any remaining tension. Singing bowls are used for sound healing and the therapy session ends with a marmapoint face therapy.
Psammotherapy Gold Quartz Signature Treatment, 60 mins, R995, Deluxe Spa & Hair hotelcloudnine.com DO TRY AT HOME: BATH PAMPER PARTY Elevate your daily bath-time to a spa-like event that gives Queen Cleopatra’s milk baths a run for their money with these bath and body essentials: a breathtaking ocean view. Here you can savour some time away from the hustle and bustle of the city in your own selfcatering villa complete with private pool, sweeping sea views, and cosy fireplaces. abalonehotel.co.za TREAT YOURSELF: WHO DOESN’T LOVE CHOCOLATE? Nothing says “pamper-me time” quite like curling up at home with a sweet treat, so you might as well savour a snack that can offer more than just a serotonin and dopamine boost. Give your confectionery indulgences a wellness twist with the Biomedcan chocolate range, which combines the benefits of CBD with high-quality Belgian craftsmanship, handcrafted by bespoke chocolaterie Von Geusau. Biomedcan CBD Dark Chocolate & Milk Chocolate, R129 each biomedcan.co.za SENSORIAL PAMPER: BYREDO OPEN SKY These days, when we daydream about tranquil retreats, we crave something magical. Sometimes it’s a place, and sometimes it’s a feeling that only a luxurious scent can conjure up. If you love the freedom of nature’s great open spaces, you will adore this scent, which perfectly captures the sensation of having the wind at your back and the vast blue sky up ahead. Byredo’s Open Sky blends citrus, spice, and a woody dry down with invigorating notes of pomelo, black pepper, hemp leaves, palo santo, and vetiver. Byredo Open Sky EDP 100ml, R3 775 25 5.
manifestsenergyFeminine in many ways.We look pastthe today’sfemininitytowhattostereotypesrolestraditionalandexploreitmeansembraceinworld defineFREE TO 26
photography Steve Tanchel production Sharon Armstrong text Suzy Josephson 08 / 2022
Accessories;
Bucket
Llewellyn Mnguni, dancer, choreographer andcreative director, 34, they/them “When I was growing up I was very, very feminine. I was always mistaken for my mother’s daughter, which kind of traumatised her. It was just something I was used to — I was just like that and that was me. So I only noticed that I was feminine because of society and how people made me feel, because I didn’t fit into the kind of status-quo description of what a man should be. That’s when I started discovering my sexuality, and the fact that I’m androgynous and I possess feminine and masculine energy. I started really appreciating myself for who I was, coming out to my family and using my femininity, androgyny, and queerness as a tool to express myself, my art form, and my choreography.” hat, R7 595, Burberry; Marina Fossati pearls, R5 49O, PreView Xavier Sadan South Africa X Domenico Orefice suit, POR, Xavier Sadan South Africa
Frances Goodman, artist, 46, she/her “I think the idea previously was that women were feminine and men were masculine. I’ve always wondered if that is so deeply engrained — what a woman should be — that it isn’t necessarily what a woman is. That it’s something that’s been piled onto us for years and years with religion and culture and class and patriarchy, [to such an extent] that it’s very hard to form a pure idea of who we are as women. I think femininity is a guise that we wear. I have very mixed feelings about it, because I’m drawn to it personally and I love the accoutrements and trappings of femininity — I love dressing up and wearing makeup. But I’m also deeply critical of where and how I make those decisions and why I make those decisions and where those decisions I make come from and whether that is something that’s been put onto me or if that’s inherently who I am.”
FASHION 2022 / 08 27
Earrings, model’s own; Marina Fossati necklace, R2 99O, PreView Accessories; Malìparmi suit jacket, R16 4OO, Catherine Gaeyla Fashion; suit jacket, R43 495, Alexander McQueen
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Dress, R62 195, Versace Opposite page: Earrings and pendants, model’s own; Adidas X Gucci jumpsuit, R49 3OO, Gucci; Ana Srdic rings, R3 9OO-R5 2OO, all Thats It 08 / 2022 Inky Hwang,tattoo artist,she/her31, “I actually feel masculine in my relationship. My partner, my boyfriend, is very feminine in a way. He’s the one who cleans and cooks — I don’t do any of that. The household-chore kind of things, which were commonly women’s [work] in the olden days, that’s the opposite of what we do in our house. And, apparently, in Chinese culture men are the ones who clean and cook. In Korea it’s the opposite, women are the ones who do everything, so I was like, ‘Jackpot!’”
Yasmin Furmie, fashion entrepreneur, 59,she/her
2022 / 08 29
“People may look at me and think that I’m not feminine in the traditional sense of the word, that I don’t perform the sort of stereotypical role of femininity — being demure, having long hair, almost being invisible — especially at my age. I’m outspoken, I’m loud, I’m in your face, I take up space, and perhaps those are not the sort of things that people think of in terms of a very feminine woman. I don’t look feminine, in terms of the way I dress. My look can be very masculine at times, so for me it’s just showing my confidence and my comfort with who I am and not necessarily trying to… be one or the other or both, and not performing for society and what I’m supposed to be.”
Sizakele Marutlulle, speaker, consultant, and businesswoman, old enough,she/her
“I’ve never wanted to be a woman who is pretty, I’ve never wanted that at all. I always wanted to be smart — smart because Jackie, who was one of the grownup girls at school, said, ‘Your looks will fade, your brain will grow, so what would you rather invest in?’ and I figured I’d invest in my brain. Learning, growing, acquiring knowledge, and contributing knowledge was an important part of that. I’m telling you this because when we then did our thesis work on childfree Black females — which was a subject that hadn’t been looked at before, because the assumption is that Black women just breed, which is problem atic, or that all women must breed, which is also problematic — it was just... allowing that community to surface from the margins of society. Being childfree was not a choice I made because I wanted to advance my career. Being childfree is not a lack. So the contribution therefore is to help young African children, girl children, to know that being childfree is a valid reproductive choice that you don’t have to explain.”
30 08 / 2022 Stockists Alexander McQueen O1O 59O Burberry678O O11 326 7835 Catherine Gaeyla Xavierthatsitboutique.co.zaPreViewlouisvuitton.comDolcecgfashion.co.zaFashion&GabbanaO1132678O7GucciO1O4425252LouisVuittonAccessorieseuropagroup.co.zaThatsItVersaceO1O8831444SadanSouthAfrica@xaviersadansouthafrica Moyuru shirt, R7 5OO; studiob3 jacket, R4 8OO; studiob3 trousers, R4 8OO, all Thats It; socks and brogues, model’s own Opposite page: T-shirt, R2O 1OO, Louis Vuitton
KEEP AN EYE ON WANTEDONLINESA.CO.ZA THROUGHOUT THE MONTH OF AUGUST FOR THE FULL INTERVIEWS.
31 2022 / 08 PHOTOGRAPHER OPSHOTTANCHEL/REDSTEVE ASSISTANTPHOTOGRAPHER’S MOKHELETHEKISO HAIR RYKLIEF/LAMPOSTSAADIQUE MAKEUP OPSHOTMERWE/REDDERVANLIZANDWHITBY/LAMPOSTLESLEY LIGHTING HIREGLOW EDITORFASHION HARILALSAHIL ASSISTANTPRODUCTION
KUMALONOMBUSO Rabia Ghoor, beauty entrepreneur,she/her22, “I think that, as time progresses — and now more than ever — we’re seeing women taking on all kinds of roles and it not being a big deal anymore. In this generation in which I’m growing up, nobody really cares if it’s a ‘female’ entrepreneur, now it’s just an entrepreneur, or if it’s a ‘female’ doctor, now it’s just a doctor… We’re progressing in the right direction with that kind of thinking, and I don’t think that you can be one thing and not be another thing. I think that roles can exist in harmony with each other, so you can be a wife, you can be a mother, you can be super-maternal, you can be super-feminine, and you can still walk into a boardroom and be powerful as sh*t, and you can still walk into your practice and own it.”
text Denis Droppa
T he success of the reborn Defender has been bad news for its donor vehicle, the Discovery, from which it has cannibalised sales. Both are built on the same platform, but the Defender’s rugged styling — in a nod to the original Land Rover icon — has seen it hog the limelight and become the more popular vehicle. Nevertheless, the Discovery soldiers on as a large SUV with luxury and all-turf capability without the retro looks, and it’s been treated to its first freshening-up since being launched in 2017. Under the bonnet you’ll find two new straightsix Ingenium engines, in petrol and diesel, with the 265kW/500Nm P360 petrol featuring 48V Mild Hybrid Electric Vehicle technology for enhanced efficiency and added torque. We road-tested the Discovery D300, powered by the new 221kW/650Nm D300 sixcylinder Ingenium turbo diesel that replaces the SD4 and SDV6 diesels, with outputs rising from the previous 190kW and 600Nm. Diesel engines tend to be maligned for their harmful NOx emissions, but there is still no other power source that offers such a strong blend of performance and economy. The test vehicle averaged 9.8l/100km on the combined cycle, which is impressively frugal for a large and powerful SUV, aided by an intelligent all-wheel drive system that maximises traction and driveline efficiency. The Discovery D300 also has an endearingly thrustful nature. It doesn’t linger off the line when you’re in a hurry, The facelifted SUV boasts formidable luxury andoffroad ability, without limelight-hogging styling
LAND TREADSDISCOVERYROVERSUBTLY
MOTORING
through turns with the agility of some sports SUVs, but for its size it handles well without wallowing excessively. Inside, the cabin has been updated with Land Rover’s latest Pivi Pro infotainment system, which includes a simplified menu structure and a touchscreen enlarged to a near-panoramic 11.4 inches. Remote-app technology lets customers keep tabs on the fuel status and location of their vehicle, and unlock and lock the doors. New “Click and Go” tablet holders with USB charging sockets on the front seatbacks provide entertainment in the rear. All the hi-tech is packaged in a premium cabin with business-class comfort, while one of the Discovery’s main selling points remains its versatile seven-seat cabin. The middle and rear rows of seats can be folded up or down — at the press of a button, if you tick that options box. Seating space in the back row is best suited to children, but adults can fit without advanced yoga skills, while the middle-row seats are adjustable and have their own climate controls. The front and rear seats are heated, and the driver and passenger have massaging seats with heating and cooling. The boot is a sizeable 1,137l with the back row folded flat, and with both rear rows folded it opens to a cavernous 2,485l load space. The Discovery doesn’t catch the eye with the square-jawed brashness of a Defender. It’s a more subtle thing, dressed in a suave business suit that has been updated with new LED headlights, sweeping front and rear indicators, and new LED All-terraintaillights.prowess is ensured by air suspension and a wade mode that optimises the vehicle for water fording up to 900mm deep. Coupled with a maximum 283mm ground clearance, the Discovery is formidable off the beaten track. At a twist of a dial the driver can select an offroad mode to suit various terrains, including mud, sand, and rock. It also has a ClearSight Ground View feature, including a “see-through bonnet”, to give you digital eyes on yourDriverssurroundings.whoare after even more hardcore offroad ability can also get the optional Advanced Off-Road Capability Pack. This comes with the Terrain Response 2 system, which reads the terrain and automatically applies the appropriate settings, as well as other features. With the new Defender stealing the limelight, it’s easy to forget how accomplished the Discovery is. It has as much adventure ability, but plies its trade with more subtle styling flair than its brash brother. The Discovery D300 is priced at R1 735 698. and has a playful eagerness that’s quite out of sync with its 2.3-tonne mass. The spirited performance is accompanied by good refinement, and there is no tractor-like diesel clatter to intrude on the luxury-coated experience, with occupants cocooned in an acoustically muted setting. The ride quality is more of a mixed bag. The big SUV’s air suspension irons out larger road imperfections, but there is some jittering on smaller bumps and ruts. Overall, it’s a great ride, just not as comfy as I expected on the rippled stuff. Much of the body is made of aluminium, making it nearly 500kg lighter than the old-generation Discovery. It is still a heavy vehicle and doesn’t scamper
All the hi-tech is packaged in a premium-class cabin with business-class comfort
08 / 2022 32
Are single women the future of residentialproperty ownership?
R eal-estate ownership is a cornerstone of wealth for the majority of the salaried population. The ownership of property, usually financed by a mortgage, is a kind of “forced saving” and asset-finance strategy. From a global perspective, people with a net worth in excess of US$1-million hold 27% of their wealth in real estate — a smart defensive ploy in a world shaken up by Covid. The Centre for Affordable Housing Finance in Africa’s 2021 Housing Finance in Africa Yearbook puts homeownership by women (both alone or jointly) at 27.8% of the pool of residential property in the country, which consists of just under 6.7-million homes. With the collective value of these assets estimated at R5-trillion by the Property Charter last year, female economic clout in this sector is significant. Although joint buying (usually by couples) remains the most popular option, since 2009, single-female purchases have outstripped single-male purchases in the transactions registered at the Deeds Office by at least 10%, according to property-market data analyst Lightstone. New housing stock is in demand by and supplied to suit the tastes of women, who tend to look for properties with amenities such as security, convenience, and proximity to elements that support a balanced lifestyle of live, work, and play. A total of 54% of purchases by women are sectional-title properties, followed by estate and stand-alone homes, according to Hayley Ivins Downes, head of digital at Lightstone. Female buyers are predominately younger (under 35) and 53% are buying properties in the R500 000-R1.5-million price range. Mortgage lenders are seeing new homebuyers shifting off the fence post-lockdown, with first-time homebuyers looking to secure their own real estate. About 60% of mortgage applications are coming from these new entrants, and the largest single category within this group (51%) is women, with more than half aged 21-41. With the upward turn in interest rates, we’ll have to see how resilient this segment will be. The opportunities arising out of this shift in the buying population are as old as the hills. The simple rule in sales is that people buy from people whom they like and trust, and who truly understand text Kura Chihota them. Estate agencies are typically dominated by female estate agents, and this trend is unlikely to change. The growing trend of female ownership cements the need for agents who can hold the trust of potential homeowners and ensure they feel comfortable, especially when viewing show houses. Savvy developers are getting on board with marketing channels that have tactile elements such as fully developed and furnished show units, augmented by 3D renders and online walkthroughs. In 2020, in an under-publicised judgment, the Durban High Court corrected a long-held apartheid-era anomaly with regard to female inheritance of landed assets in particular. In this case — typical of the situation in which almost 400 000 elderly Black women find themselves — the name on the property deed was that of the husband. Upon his death, the title would not necessarily flow to the surviving spouse. The court deemed the marriages to have communal property, and the surviving spouse to have an abiding interest in that property. This is a huge step forward in cementing women’s security of tenure in the future. South African women are thus increasingly making their property muscle felt, and it behoves agents, developers, and mortgage lenders to adjust their practices accordingly.
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Dispatches on all things cool, covetable, and conversation-worthy 08 / 2022 34 NAVIGATOR drinks gifted books eclectibles Permission granted: indulge in these winter warmers Interior designer Bilala Mabuza Nancy Cunard, muse and wild child of the Jazz Age Sarah Buitendach on signs — and Styles — of the times no-anyanyisiIsibindi / chocolategelpâtéChicken-liverwithonionandadark-crumb TURNING THE TABLES AT EMAZULWINI TURNING THE TABLES AT EMAZULWINI
It’s this dedication to celebrating her heritage, this uniquely considered offering and, no doubt, her prodigious skill that have catapulted Molefe to international renown, even if she merely attributes it to being in the Food has always been in the picture for Mmabatho Molefe. However, it wasn’t until she came across a culinary bursary competition at the University of KwaZulu-Natal — where she was studying for a BA in politics, philosophy, and law — that she realised it could be an option for her future. While she didn’t win the bursary, it was a pivotal moment for the aspirant chef, as it was here that she met Harald Bresselschmidt, the chef behind Cape Town’s Aubergine Restaurant, who gave her the opportunity to work in his kitchen for a few months. The bug had bitten, and soon Molefe enrolled at Capsicum Culinary Studio, where she completed her studies. She then returned to Durban to launch her Long Table with Friends concept — a dinner club of sorts and, most importantly, a way to keep on cooking when funds were low. It was while looking for a job in Durban that she came across The LivingRoom at Summerhill Estate, where chef Johannes Richter cooks up a hyper-endemic tasting menu. She realised the potential this held for the province’s produce, and the seed was planted for what would become Emazulwini.
A stint at another fine-dining restaurant in Cape Town was cut short by Covidrelated retrenchments and, with the industry not hiring, Molefe was at loose ends. Yet, when one door closes another invariably opens, and she pitched a concept for the about-to-open food incubation hub and market Makers Landing at the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. The young chef had noticed a gap in the market for restaurants run by Black chefs, and wanted to create an environment where Black chefs could thrive — especially other women. “I hoped to create a space that was inspirational, [that was] an opportunity to stand up and say, ‘We too can be taken seriously,’” says Molefe. And so Emazulwini came to be — a Blackowned and -run restaurant with an entirely female kitchen team that champions Zulu cuisine. She drew on the food she enjoyed growing up and combined this with her professional training to create what would Chef stagecuisineMolefeMmabathoputsZuluontheworld
enkukhuAmanqina/ vinegarandamasionionterrineChicken-feetwithmayo,dressingbrown-jellies
The phenomenon of the celebrity chef is touched on, too. There’s a mentality that, in order to have made it as a Black chef, you have to be a TV chef. “Black chefs struggle to excel in the industry because of lack of funding. At the end of the day, the celebrity-chef route pays better, and we all need to pay our bills. We need investors in Black creativity if we are going to take the industry forward.”
IMAGES MUSIWAKHUTHI
While Molefe has found fame, she is intent on building herself into a chef who competes on a professional level. This journey has already begun with her inclusion in the World’s 50 Best, 50 Next List, which features 50 young people from around the globe who are changing the world of gastronomy in unique and interesting ways. It is evident that this is but the start of what will no doubt be a long and storied career for Molefe — a trailblazer of a woman who is determined to forge her own path, not only for herself but for all African women in the industry. Emazulwini linktr.ee/ emazulwini.restaurant 0732927441
right place at the right time. She acknowledges the hardship of being an African woman in the industry, and speaks of the lack of representation in professional kitchens, of women being an element of stability at home, of her own love of spending time with family, and the global movement towards better mental well-being and work/life balance. “How do we allow people to be there for their families and still work in the industry? How do we split hours to allow people adequate time off while still running a successful restaurant? There’s a lot of talk, but we need the action to make it happen.”
35 2022 / 08 become a tasting menu. “It was important that people were open to at least trying everything,” says the chef. “I didn’t want to give them the opportunity to skip dishes because of misconceptions [of tripe, chicken feet or tongue, for instance] — it’s totally fine if they don’t like it, but I’d rather they try it first. More often than not, they do enjoy it, though!”
yenkukhuImiqala / Tartlet jelliesbrown-vinegarmoussechicken-neckwithand nopolonyIgwinya / Vetkoek crispycatalan,white-cheddarchickenhomemadewithpolony,andchickenskin
THE SEATHOT/ text Steve Steinfeld
By blending essential oils from handpicked English elderflowers with quinine of the highest quality from the fever trees of the Democratic Republic of Congo, Fever-Tree has created a delicious, floral variation of Indian tonic water. The delicate and sweet flavour of elderflower is perfectly balanced by the soft bitterness of the quinine, which pairs beautifully with fresh and floral gins and premium vodkas. Fruity & flavoured G&T 150ml Fever-Tree Elderflower Tonic Water 50ml Ginato Gin Plenty of fresh ice Orange peel no reason for a season of discontent 05. 04. 03. 01. 06.
6. WITHMIX BESTTHE There’s
4. SHANKY’S WHIP 5. SHOWINBEST 3. VINTAGEGRAFF’SDELAIREICONIC
Here’s a drink that’s as unusual as its name suggests. In Ireland, it’s not uncommon for an Irish whiskey shot to be dropped into a pint of Guinness. To recreate this barrels)(agedblackflavourincomparableexperience,Irishwhiskeyincharredisblended with natural flavours and caramel. The resulting whiskey liqueur is midnight black, with a sweet leadingaoringlassabeautifullyIrish-whiskeyunderpinnedsmoothnesswithspicynotesandpresentedinbespokeembossedbottle.Tryitneatatumbleroverice,mixedwithcola.R395bottle,availableatbottlestores.
DRINKS text Wade Bales BalesWade is a merchantandnégociantwineknownwellIMAGES SUPPLIED WARM UP YOUR WINTER… 08 / 2022 36 1. MONTE STAMBECCO
O ne of the Cape’s most prestigious estates has released another pinnacle cabernet sauvignon: the Laurence Graff Reserve 2017. Warm aromas of vanilla pod and dark chocolate entice the palate and lead to a silkysmooth wine with a flinty minerality. A single-vineyard wine, aged in 80% new French-oak barrels for 20 months, it’s a truly iconic claret, with an elegance and gravitas that mirrors its namesake. R4 200 a bottle 02. Hendrick’s Midsummer Solstice is a small-batch, limited-edition gin, infused with a secret selection of floral essences. Retailing at R545 a bottle at select outlets. Midsummer Solstice Bramble 1. 50ml Hendrick’s Midsummer Solstice 2. 20ml lemon juice 3. 12.5ml sugar syrup 4. Crushed ice 5. 5ml Crème de Mûre 6. Blackberries 7. Lemon wedge Add the gin, lemon juice, and sugar syrup to a glass over crushed ice. Mix and drizzle with the Crème de Mûre. Garnish with blackberries and lemon wedge, then serve T he donnaychar and pinot noir grapes that went into this bubbly were grown against a southern slope 200m above sea level in lockcoolThesehoekpristinetheFransch-region.dryandconditionsinthe flavours of La Motte, resulting in an MCC burst ing with bright notes of citrus, nuts, and bri oche — all laced with fine bubbles. Enjoy along side cheeses or seafood such as oysters, crayfish, and fresh line fish. Retailing at R390 a bottle. 20182. LA CLASSIQUEMÉTHODEMOTTECAPN amed after the ibex (a longhorned mountain goat) that roams the Italian Alps near the distillery, Monte Stambecco is a bold Italian amaro liqueur. Originally created to aid in digestion, it has a bittersweet flavour and consists of a distillation of herbs, spices, roots, flowers, maraschino cherries, and other botanicals. Expect bright citrus notes and underlying hints of R379ofshooter,cherry,garnishedservedliqueurfruity,cherry.cardamom,cinnamon,andSmoothandthisdeliciouscanbeovericeandwithaasapremiumorinavarietyAmarococktails.perbottle.
17. What place inspires and rejuvenates you? Marrakesh. There is a deep sense of design, and local influences can be seen everywhere. 18. A place that’s recently caught your attention? Jnane Tamsna in Marrakesh is a glorious boutique hotel owned by my friend Meryanne Loum-Martin and her beautiful family. 19. Do you naturally infuse your femininity into every project or is it more considered than that? I design pieces with curves and soft forms. These appeal to my feminine sensibility and the way I choose to live. 20. You were one of a few designers selected to decorate show apartments at the City Centre development at Steyn City — what do you think was the appeal of your work? I understood my clients and could clearly visualise how they would choose to live in that luxury resort apartment in the heart of Steyn City. The space had to be furnished meaningfully for maximum living and entertaining, with special art and accessory pieces collected over time. 21. What was the last item of clothing you added to your wardrobe? A beautiful gold-and-black brocade dress by Tiaan Nagel that makes me feel both stylish and strong.
04. If you had to choose, what is the single most sentimental object to you? My grandmother’s silver wedding handbag. Style has no expiry date. 05. What is your drink of choice? I am a wine enthusiast, and attended wine courses at the Cape Wine Academy.
06. When you eat out, where do you go? Signature Restaurant in Morningside, Sandton — I helped to conceptualise the restaurant and continue to be their designer and biggest fan. 07. If you had to narrow it down, what element in your wardrobe signifies your individual sense of style? I fell in love with Tom Ford during his Gucci days, and my black Tom Ford jacket has stood the test of time. Locally, Tiaan Nagel is my go-to designer. I love his architectural approach to dressing a woman. 08. What was the last object that you picked up on a shopping expedition that you fell in love with? I am not a huge sneaker person — I’ll always choose espadrilles instead. But a friend finally persuaded me to buy white sneakers in Milan, and I obliged.
13. What’s next on your list of musthave items? A French Hat lighting piece by @mosproducts. 14. Who are your favourite interior designers? I love Sheila Bridges for making it possible for Black girls to dream of this career when there were so few role models on TV back in the day, and Kelly Wearstler for her longevity and continually pushing the envelope of design and fashion. 15. The best gift you’ve been given recently? My son chose That Skinny Bitch candles when I went with him to Always Welcome. He said, “These are great, Mummy, they look like you,” and I was sold. 16. A gift that you’ve recently bought for someone? Art by Thokozani Mthiyane. We have an incredible art community in this country.
01. What is the one indulgence you would never forgo? A day well spent at the spa.
1. 4. 5. 5.6. 7. 37 2022 / 08GIFTED
IMAGES SUPPLIED always. My husband is a timepiece fanatic and I am a grateful beneficiary of his Cartier purchases. A gift that keeps on giving! The last place you travelled to that captured your heart? Milan always feeds my deep appreciation of skilled craftsmanship in furniture design and fashion.
11. What book can we find on your bedI’m re-reading The Chiffon because I simply adore André Leon Talley. He was larger than life, wrote beautifully, and totally transports you to the world of fashion and design.
1. The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir, André Leon Talley 2. French Hat lighting piece, @mosproducts 3. Rejoice, Tony Allen and Hugh Masekela 4. Cartier watch 5. Tiaan Nagel Design 6. Thokozani Mthiyane, A Study on Gesture I, 2020 7. That Skinny Bitch candle
02. What are your essential lotions and potions? I swear by QMS Medicosmetics — particularly the serums. 03. What gadget couldn’t you live without? My iPhone and AirPods. An entire studio in my pocket!
09. A watch brand that you love? Cartier, Bilala Mabuza Q+A. The interior designer ontimeless style and a femininedesign sensibility
12. Which musicians really appeal to you at the moment? I love Al Jarreau and Uncle Hugh Masekela, two great musical geniuses.
N ancy Cunard was one of the most unusual and influential women of the 20th century. She led a life that was out of the ordinary, excessive and sybaritic, and yet she used her fortune to fight racism, fascism, and the stultifying mores of her aristocratic class in England. She was a poet, a publisher, and a muse to significant avant-garde writers and artists, and helped to push African art and artefacts into the European mainstream. In Five Love Affairs and a Friendship: The Paris Life of Nancy Cunard, Icon of the Jazz Age , Anne de Courcy wisely contains this mercurial woman to the 1920s and 1930s in Paris, which allows her to properly examine Cunard’s life at its most thriving, before alcoholism, anorexia, and madness erased her. Cunard was born into great wealth in the last years of the 19th century, the heiress to the Cunard shipping fortune. Her father was a baron and her mother a powerful society hostess. Cunard couldn’t abide either of them.
Radiantly beautiful, tall, and slender, she was described as “incarnately alluring”. She drank from an early age and took many to her bed; it was, after all, wartime (World War 1, to be exact). Her poetry began to appear in small intellectual magazines. In order to escape the confines of home, Nancy upped and married a rich but unsuitable Australian officer, abandoned him, and found herself in a Paris bewitched by jazz. The “Roaring 20s” had erupted. At the opening of one famed cabaret joint, Le Boeuf sur le Toit, the poet Jean Cocteau tapped the drums while Black musicians hammered on back-to-back pianos, with Pablo Picasso and Russian impresario Sergei Diaghilev looking on. In liberal, loose-laced Paris, Cunard found her spiritual home. Across the pages of this book traipse a broke Ernest Hemingway, the difficult James Joyce, and the sculptor Constantin Brancusi, who carved and cast statues of her. The American poet William Carlos Williams kept a photograph of her in his study and one of her great love affairs was with fellow poet EzraIt’sPound.important not to romanticise this scenario: like most so-called Bright Young Things, Cunard was careless of others, shallow, and chronically bored. Yet she embraced the new and the antiestablishment — first, it seems, as a bit of a lark. It was fashionable to follow the new “-isms” such as Dadaism and Surrealism, but Cunard had an intellect, honed by her great friend, the Irish novelist George Moore. She continued to write poetry and set up her own printing house, The Hours Press, dedicated to publishing new, Modernist writers and Ultimately,poets.it was her grande love affair with the Black American pianist Henry Crowder that set this restless, promiscuous woman on her life’s path. More than 300 000 African-American troops had served in the US army in France, where they were considered equal; there was little or no colour bar in Paris, where Black soldiers could visit the same bars — and brothels — as their white comrades. It’s no wonder that when they returned home to Prohibition and the Ku Klux Klan, many saved up to get back to Paris as soon as they could. Cunard was becoming increasingly interested in the Civil Rights Movement, and in African art and African peoples. Though their relationship lasted some years, she and Crowder eventually parted, painfully, as a result of her cruelty and alcoholism, but her activism continued. She took up the cause of the Scottsboro Boys, for instance — nine Black teenagers falsely accused of raping two white women in Alabama. She also compiled a vast, seminal work titled Negro , a collection of poems, stories, essays, and ephemera that represented the range of Black experience. Cunard went on to advocate for Communist causes, and in World War 2 worked for the French Resistance. She built shelters for survivors of the Spanish Civil War and travelled to Jamaica to study the effects of colonialism, while dedicating herself to safeguarding African collections in the Liverpool Museum. Sadly, her last years in the 1960s were marred by mental illness, poverty, and the ever-present alcoholism. She died penniless and alone in a Paris hospital, weighing just 27kg.
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youth — the 20-yearolds flinging each other about in silly dance moves, screaming themselves silent after almost three years of life on hold — is a thing to celebrate. And there was the ever-charming Styles, flying around the stage — part Mercury, part Jagger — belting out songs in heart-emblazoned dungarees and a pink, oversized bead necklace. Playful, feminine outfits are not a new thing for musicians (hello, Prince and David Bowie). Watching this young performer, though, it is evident that this embracing of androgyny and freedom to wear what you want beyond the constraints of Western gendered dressing has hit the spot with an entirely new generation. A light Google unearths one article after the next offering tips on how to dress like Styles, irrespective of how you identify. And it’s not just the youngsters who find Styles’s, erm, style relevant and compelling. Two days later, we visited the V&A’s excellent marquee exhibition for the year: “Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear”. Stitched through this display of suiting, brogues, and boxers is a message about how, over centuries, men’s clothing has evolved. It is an ever ebbing and flowing tide of masculinity and femininity. Today, a pink shirt might seem the height of edgy attire for an investment banker, but in the 18th century, the European gent about town rocked both the hue and delicate, pretty patterns. A rich raspberry floral silk suit and its ilk screamed power and success. In a corner of the expo, a painting (ironically, of a woman — Frances Stewart, Duchess of Richmond and Lennox) shows the typical uniform of a 17thcentury English soldier. It is an overthe-top trip of lace, ribbons, ballooning sleeves, and rich gold fabric. It’s also in crazy contrast to the severe black suiting and coats of the 19th century that appear elsewhere in this zigzagging zip through fashion (and still seem to be men’s main sartorial influence today). Styles’s kit pops up throughout, but it’s the frilly, lacy, ice-blue Gucci ballgown that he wore on the cover of American Vogue in December 2020 that finishes off the exhibition (admittedly, also sponsored by Gucci). Set alongside the meringue of a Christian Siriano tuxedo dress that actor Billy Porter wore to the 2019 Oscars, it makes a strong closing statement about this decade’s dressing and thinking. The number of countries in the world that do not provide paid maternity leave, one of which is the US. number of countries that do not have laws gender.theequalequalensuringpayforworkongroundsof
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I n June, I went to the Harry Styles concert at London’s Wembley Stadium. Making a couple of assumptions here, I imagine that you, the consummate Business Day reader, are either thinking, “Who?” or “Ah yes, my kids love that guy.” As I type this, the internationally adored pop star’s As It Was is number one on the Billboard charts. He’s beating out Beyonce and Drake, even Ed Sheeran. His next tune pops up at number 18 on that same list and, in 2020, he had another number one with Watermelon Sugar The 28-year-old former member of Brit boy band One Direction is churning out the hits. He also seems to be riding this groundswell of Harry hysteria with ease, and in pussy-bow blouses, pearl-drop earrings, and ball gowns, to boot. I am not one of the guy’s biggest fans (although I do concede that he is a delicious morsel), but I went to the concert with my sister, who’d had tickets for the postponed gig long before the pandemic engulfed us all. We were part of a 90 000-strong crowd — and, I will admit, even this self-proclaimed “aunty” left thinking that it had been one hell of an event. Live music always offers a dose of dopamine, but the energy of a stadium heaving with ecstatic, giddy youngsters was catching. The untethered vitality of
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