1
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION (THE CUSTARD APPLE)
BY SUNEEL KUSHAWAHA GUIDE: ADITI RANJAN FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
2
3
PREFACE
ABOUT THE COURSE
THE OBJECTIVE OF THIS COURSE IS TO DEVELOP SENSITIVITY TO TEXTILE DESIGNING AS AN INTERPLAY OF STRUCTURE, FORM, MATERIAL AND FUNCTION WHICH PROVIDE NEW MEANINGS AND EXPERIENCES.
The hands-on learning is desirable through undertaking individual assignments and the student is encouraged to develop an innovative approach, to research, develop concepts and creatively and imaginarily explore the cultural material and technological resources to transform the ideas into fabrics and textile products.
THE COURSE HELPS THE LEARNER TO DEVELOP GENUINE RESPECT FOR TEXTILE MATERIAL AND FOR CRAFTSMANSHIP. THE COURSE CONTENTS COMPRISE THE GRADUAL DEVELOPMENT OF STUDY AND OBSERVATION OF AN OBJECT IN NATURE. FOLLOWED BY THE SKILLS OF MANIPULATING MATERIALS AND CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE CONTEXT OF THE INSPIRATION. THE STUDENT IS ENCOURAGED TO DEVELOP CONCEPTS, INNOVATE AND CREATE A KINSHIP BETWEEN TEXTILE MATERIAL AND INSPIRATION; EXPERIMENT AND EXPLORE IDEAS AND WAYS OF INTERPRETING THEM INTO TEXTILES. FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
This course allows one to work as a group to discuss, dialogue and critique each other’s work. This ideology gives freedom to think and allows mutual help to build a personality of team work. The teacher evaluates the individual on the basis of feedback, presentation, discussions and dedication toward the course. FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
4
5
CONTENT
12 INTERIOR
COLOR PALETTE MOOD BOARD
12 MATERIALS 6 CUSTARD APPLE
STEMS AND LEAVES FLOWERS FRUITES AND REPRODUCTION
7 EXTERIOR DESIGN
TESSELATION STRUCTURE
9 INTERIOR DESIGN 10 RESEMBLENCE
EXTERIOR RESEMBLENCE INTERIOR RESEMBLENCE
11 EXTERIOR
COLOR PALETTE MOOD BOARD
FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
15 TECHNIQUE: BRAIDING 16 TECHNIQUE: HAND KNITTING 17 TECHNIQUE: ORIGAMI
22 TECHNIQUE: CLAMP DYEING 22 TECHNIQUE: PAPER COILING 22 TECHNIQUE: BEATING 23 TECHNIQUE: EMBOSSING EFFECTS 28 PRODUCT: ROUND CUSHION STOOL
18 TECHNIQUE: QUILTING 19 TECHNIQUE: PAPIER MACHE 20 TECHNIQUE: FEVICOL TEXTURE 21 TECHNIQUE: COLARGE
... FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
6
7
Fruits and Reproduction
CUSTARD APPLE The custard apple is a famous fruit. It is known by different local names in different regions of India. Because of having a mythical connection with the Indian epic Ramayana it is named as Seetafal. It is a small deciduous or semi-evergreen tree reaching 8 metres (26 ft) to 10 metres (33 ft) tall with an open, irregular crown.
Stems and leaves
The slender leaves are hairless, straight and pointed at the apex (in some varieties wrinkled), 10 centimetres (3.9 in) to 20 centimetres (7.9 in) long and 2 centimetres (0.79 in) to 7 centimetres (2.8 in) wide.
The fruits are variable in shape: heartshaped, spherical, oblong or irregular. The size ranges from 7 centimetres (2.8 in) to 12 centimetres (4.7 in), depending on the cultivar. When ripe, the fruit is brown or yellowish, with red highlights and a varying degree of reticulation, depending again on the variety. The flesh varies from juicy and very aromatic to hard with a repulsive taste. The flavour is sweet and pleasant, akin to the taste of ‘traditional’ custard.
EXTERIOR STRUCTURE The exterior of the custard apple consist of polygons like triangle, pentagon and hexagon. The arrangement of the units is as similar as it is of platonic solids.
Flowers
The yellow-green flowers are generally in clusters of three or four 2 centimetres (0.79 in) to 3 centimetres (1.2 in) diameter, with three long outer petals and three very small inner ones.
FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
8
9
INTERIOR STRUCTURE
Tesselation structure
The pulp inside the custard apple contains too much water contain, looks fresh, is waxy white in colour. The seeds are covered with the pulp. The taste of the fruit can range from slightly pasty to juicy, soft pulp with some grains at the inner wall of covering. Pulp is sweet in taste and smell. The pulp has a sticky property.
The 3-D structure of the platonic solid is formed by the 2-D flat surface. In the custard apple there are regular and irregular units but in the totality custard apple is the composition of hexagonal units. The triangle unit extends to pentagon and the pentagon steps to hexagon and hexagon is the matured unit of custard apple. Thus by this study of its exterior three regular tessellations are suggested for further explorations.
cutard apple
custard apple
The seeds are arranged towards the central stem. The central stem transfers the nourishment to each seed. The seed develops inside a soft coating (pulp). As the fruit ripens the seeds grow harder and pulp gets softer and juicier. Its pulp is used in making ice-cream, shakes and other food items. The outer coat of custard apple used for making of black, blue and brown dyes, also used as insecticide.
custard apple (middle stem)
triangle grid FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
hexagonal grid
pentagonal grid
custard apple (seeds)
Peeled custard apple
custard apple ice cream
FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
10
11
RESEMBLENCE The exterior and interior have resemblances with some other fruits. It is also a part of the study to examine the modularity of the units which constitute one structure. It is the beauty of Nature or organic forms to merge with the shape with high degree of randomness and unpredictability. The two compositions can’t be same in nature. There has to be some distinction.
These are some key words and colour palette derived from the exterior of the custard apple. The mood board is in support of the key words.
CUSTARD APPLE VARIATION BY COLOUR
CUSTARD APPLE -VARIATION BY STURCTURE
EXTERIOR
• • • • •
Hard Embossed Handy Spherical Gripped
hexagonal tiles turtle shell
EXTERIOR RESEMBLENCE Giraffe
Truck tire grooves
Lychee
Pine apple
Monsteradiliciasa
maze
INTERIOR RESEMBLENCE
stone beach honey comb
Lychee FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
Jack Fruit
Monsteradiliciasa
color palette
cracked soil
canvas ball
FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
12
13
MATERIALS
INTERIOR The interior of the custard apple has a lot of scope for fabric construction. These are some key points mentioned with related colour palette and mood board. • • • • •
Soft Juicy Delicate Protected Feminine
cotton feild
Next is to search for the material supporting the keywords for custard apple (exterior/interior). Sourcing material samples from local markets, are as follows-
grip rubber
textured cloth sample
cloth sample
textured cloth sample
cloth sample
textured cloth sample
cloth sample
velvet cloth sample
textured cloth sample
orange juice
polyfills moonj flower
sponge(polythene) pearl shell
colour palette FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
fur
foam sheet
FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
14
15
TECHNIQUE: BRAIDING A braid (also called plait) is a complex structure or pattern formed by intertwining three or more strands of flexible material such as textile fibers, wire. These are some braiding exploration done in cotton material. In image (x) the braiding is done with combination of cotton and metal wire.
double cloth sample(front)
double cloth sample(back)
nylon net FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
smooth cord
textured cord
five end braiding
flat surfance braiding
five end braiding(shiny green) and baiding with the combination of wire(purple). FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
16
17
TECHNIQUE: HAND KNITTING
TECHNIQUE: ORIGAMI
Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive rows of loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This technique also allows much opportunity to achieve the desired effect of patterning, embossing effects, and colour variations.
It’s a technique of paper folding and making 3-d texture, model and functional surface. The number of basic origamic folds is small, but they can be combined in a variety of ways to make intricate designs. These are some exploration to get hexagonal regular pattern in paper origami. It worked very well. But the execution in to the fabric takes time, labour and passion. By making fabric ironed with fusing material. Results were not satisfactory and it was losing it shape also.
hexagonal knitted pattern
photo source: http://www. cutoutandkeep.net/projects/turtle-shelland-cap
hexagon origamy overlapping tesselation(paper)
origami collarge
hexagon origamy overlapping tesselation(paper)
hand knitting sample
hand knitting sample FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
hexagon origamy overlapping tesselation(paper)
hexagon origami tesselation(cloth)
hexagon origamy\i tesselation(paper)
hexagon origamy tesselation(paper)
FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
18
19
TECHNIQUE: QUILTING
TECHNIQUE: PAPIER MACHE
The quilting is the technique to sandwich the middle material between the two layers of clothes. Here also the emphasis is hexagonal pattern of custard apple. As the organic form allows some variation of shapes, size and orientation, same here the results touches the possible irregularity. The following are exploration of quilting results by means of different technique. Like first image of quilting is achieved by double cloth weaving, while second is embroidery exploration, third is simple quilting. Fourth is the combination of appliquĂŠ and quilting.
quilting(hexagone)
Papier mache is a composite material consisting of paper pieces or pulp, sometimes reinforced with textiles, bound with an adhesive, such as glue, starch, or wallpaper paste. Some explorations of papier mache reached the level of true texture of ripen custard apple literally. Use of black color in random distribution and tactile feel of the exploration is very close to the custard apple. Paper crushing in exploration* is not at all makes composition of any polygon the randomness of the shapes is very high. But the over lapping and folds due to crushing, maintain the totality of the custard apple.
papier mache (regular units) cutard apple texture
doubled cloth quilting
papier mache(organic)
embroidory quilting FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
applique quilting (spaced hexagone)
crushed paper(cellophane) paper
*crushed paper
FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
20
21
TECHNIQUE: FEVICOL TEXTURE
TECHNIQUE: COLARGE
The surface of (ripen) custard apple has combination of two types of tactile texture; one is hexagonal refine units, the other texture occurs in these hexagonal units. The hexagon unit has irregular organic texture and colour contamination. Visually the Fevicol is transparent (dry), combined with regular folds in the paper it give close results of dry custard apple*. Apply over the translucent paper the fevicol part get shrink and the rest paper get raised so this idea also works to get the definite units**. Appling over a canvas cloth it keeps the hairy part settled down in to base***. Rest of the cloth remain fluffy hence the effect comes is embossed.
This allows range of material and size variation composed in a way to complete the hexagonal grid to achieve the arrangement hexagonal units of a custard apple. First exploration has emphasis on the outer line (depression lines at each joining of the hexagons. while the second shows the raised hexagonal projecting of the outer cell of a custard apple. the compact structure (a sphere) catches the shape hexagon. the high degree of the randomness of shape is shown in the fourth image. keeping the unit (felt) same but showing the reduction of the shape by use of colour (green). this exploration has dynamism and direction of evolution occurred. *fevicole texture
**trenslusent paper with gued hexagone grid
paper role unit tasselation clothes laminated colarge.
see through the paper overlappings and organic texture by fevicole. ***Hexagonal glued unites on canvas cloth FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
rondlaces beads
thermacole units
felt hexagonal unit. FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
22
23
TECHNIQUE: CLAMP DYEING
TECHNIQUE: PAPER COILING
TECHNIQUE: BEATING IMPRESSION
TECHNIQUE: EMBOSSING EFFECTS
These were the explorations to get hexagonal tessellation by the means of Clamp dyeing.
In these explorations the units are made by coiling method and two explorations tried.
The exploration are achieved by the beating the hexagonal head of the bolt on metal sheet.
The embossing effect can be creat in many ways as for refferences embossing can be done by stamping(hard material like sheet),by using heat embossing material,by the variation of compactness of the knits/by different paterns, or by colaging the non flate material units on the flate ground. there is also a way to get embossed effect is to when a soft material is pressed angainst any tension it distort accoring to the tension applyed. wool knitted embossed surface
copact composition of paper coiles
stamped metal sheet(front) clamp dyied sample
clamp dyied sample FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
expanded composition of paper coiles
stamped metal sheet(back)
pattern embossing material( half ironed)
embossing by pressing plastic net(hexagone) FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
24
25 1
2
The preparation also travelled through a long journey of trials. The size is determined by a cylindrical can of 40”height and 26” diameter. It is wrapped and stuck with the 0.5 mm foam sheet covering for avoiding the slippage from the slippery smooth surface of the can. The a green(with black spotted) tube(hose) knitted
3
fabric of 30”dia is prepared now the can kept inside of the cloth right at the centre now the gap around the can inside the clothes is filled gently with the Polyfills. The even distribution of the Polyfills is very necessary for good result of the embossing surface. a tubular braid is prepared separately and now the
braid net is fixed over the can tightly. Same way the head is also prepared separately. And mount over the can the total composition of embossing surfaces can be adjusts latter also. The open end of the cloth at the bottom goes in wrap under the bottom of the stool.
1,2,3-prototype (stool) braiding cord
PRODUCT The idea of creating tensioned embossing is very direct depiction of custard apple. Going through, embossing properties of different material. I reached to the stage when the embossing surface was also suggesting the use of the surface. The round Stool was the intended product. The prototype of the actual model it created in to small scale. (see image). The top finished part is prepared by braiding. The structure uses a simple knot. The knotting is done by one cord and the next cord
remains straight so that later if required the size of the hexagons can be adjusted easily. The number of knots also decides the one side length of the hexagonal unit. The distortion of the unit comes automatically in the centre when it groups together. The centre also decides the number of the ends in the group, which only going to cover the full body of stool.
Knotting
cloth covering
center of the stool seat FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
metal can(40”h,26”dia.) with wrapped foam sheet(0.5mm)
Polyfills
stool seat
stool body net(cord)
FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
26
27
It’s the Knotting which causing the hexagonal unit. In each unit there are two (vertical) sides are knotted and rest four are single cord. The cord changes the alignments alternatively with the neighbour cord that why the knotting cord (as it needs more length of cord than the straight cord as it runs around the straight cord.) keeps changing in the straight cord. The cord material matters in the re-
sults of the surface embosed.the knot size are dependent on the thickness of the cord used. The thickness of the cord should be according to the ratio with hexagonal unit. The colour for cord is shiny fresh green because of the use of synthetic filaments. While the colour is fade green with black spots. all together combination has equal and clear visibility. Polyfills material is a synthetic material and
the resilience properties of polyester staple fibres (Polyfills) cover all the deformation applied. The negative space in the cord net becomes the positive space when applied on the clothes. The surface is consisting of the compactly tightly tied with the cord and the raise soft portion of cloth.
custard apple in the garden
By keeping the inspiration and the product for comparison also show the relation between. The product follow the inspiration in terms of colour, texture and composition.
stool sitting position - a kid on the stool and resting hand on the stool. preparation materials FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
stool in the garden
embossing effect on the stool FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
28
29
PRODUCT: ROUND CUSHION STOOL What makes Custard Apple”THE CUSTARED APPLE”? the exterior attribute of custard is its embossed texture and color .the texture around the (stem)tip is interesting about the custard apple. This point is the hub of all hexagons (as the directionality of each unit converse at this point). That’s why including tip of the custard apple is very essential to show the custard apple in the product. The stool top has the centre point of cord net; the tension applied is from the free end at the bottom of the stool. As the tension at the tip, is very less so the product seat is comparatively softer than the body. The stool has three part- head, body and cord net. The cord net hold all the parts together as one product. Use of metal can holds all the weight on it and hollow body result low weight of the stool. And can take as a idea of reuse of the waste cans.
FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA
This course helped me build my conceptual skills and to learn thoroughly each sequence -from penning down an idea, from sketches to exploring variations, possibilities and limitations; then from exploration to product making. The faculty helped at every moment of time when I got stuck. On the other hand, my batch mates gave feedback and their critiques also helped. The result’s credit also goes to the guid’s support, encouragement, cooperation and coordination of my batch mates.
(Stool )use
... FABRI CONSTRUCTION / CUSTERED APPLE / SUNEEL KUSHWAHA