Outdoor Living Issue 2022 by SunsetMag

SU M M E R G RILLING GU IDE

U LT I M A T E

BACKYARD MAKEOVER

OUTDOOR ESCAPES Cool Cabin Retreats Nearby National Parks Easy Weekend Getaways

Water-Wise Modern Wine Stargazing Epic Electric Gardening Country Style for Beginners Road Trips

Find it all in one place.

VISITANCHORAGE.NET

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Editor’s Letter On the expanding definition of outdoor living.

Bacanora chefs Rene Andrade (left) and Roberto Centeno (center), and bartender Adrian Galindo

Best of the West Foraging 101; cabin-flavored ice cream; and national park-inspired candles

Home & Garden

Vineyard Views A second-generation vintner and her half-sister put their heads together to build a

home on a Napa vineyard

with deep, sentimental roots.

Cabin Fever Deep in the Washington

woods, the creative minds

behind Seattle’s coolest retail concept created an idyllic

creekside compound of vacation hideaways.

Your Summer Garden Checklist The heat is here. What to do in your garden now.

CONTENTS

Outdoor Oasis To get the most out of a patio, a Phoenix real estate

agent turned to designer Charlie Ray for a garden

that’s cool and composed.

OUTDOOR LIVING

Food & Drink

California Classic Alice Waters’ new Los Angeles restaurant is only the begin-

Travel & Escapes

ning of the chef’s grand vi-

sion for transforming the way California students eat.

Sonoran Soul

summer with sustainability,

drade harnesses the power

of fire to serve up a master-

class in Sonoran-style grilling at his Phoenix restaurant,

THOMAS J. STORY

Bacanora.

Camp Cocktails Set up a movable mixology

kit that will turn any campsite into a pop-up al fresco bar.

Voices of the West

tures to the next level with a

wheels.

Seasonal diversions and seexperts.

Take your camping adven-

like backpacking—but on two

Insider cret travel tips from local

High Gear weekend of bikepacking. It’s

I went to Wyoming’s Snake

a new connection to my dad.

nature, and culture in mind.

First Time Fly Fishing River in search of fish. I found

The New Western Explorer 16 ways to hit the road this

Rising star chef Rene An-

Evelynn Escobar founded Hike Clerb to encourage

more folks to get outdoors,

and she’s ready to take that

mission beyond Los Angeles.

ON THE COVER

We set up camp at Alila Ventana Big Sur with the new all-electric Rivian R1S. Photograph by TH O MAS J. STO RY

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

EDITOR’S NOTE

Golden Hours

CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER

Michael A. Reinstein

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Hugh Garvey CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Wilson

There are few diversions as lovely as watching a sunset, whether it’s over the terracotta roofs of Santa Barbara and into the Pacific, behind the wind-bent trees of Big Sur silhouetted black against a blaze orange swath of sky, over the red hills of the Arizona desert, or peeking through We spent an evening at Napa vineyard Green & pines in the Washington woods. Now that sumRed, sipping wine and checking out a new family mer is here, we’ve been granted sunsets pushed home on the estate, which boasts views for days. out later in the day to savor. We’ve also been granted another unsung gift, that flipped view of a sunset, the fleeting 45 minutes or so known as golden hour. It’s when the sun drops and the angle of light goes low and soft and diffuse, and only the nectar light remains. Yes, the sky and the clouds of a sunset are stunning, but if you shift your gaze toward the earth you’ll see that everything around you is suffused with this golden light. Flowers get backlit, the fuzz on leaves glows, the white wine in your glass goes amber, and everybody looks picture-perfect. You don’t need a grand view of the ocean or a mountain range to enjoy golden hour. It happens wherever you are, magically transforming the everyday around you into a sight to behold. With golden hour happening later in the summer, that means more time outside: for al fresco dinners, for evening hikes, and, yes, for sunset walks on the beach. We have more opportunities to spontaneously hit the road, more chances to cook in the wild or in our backyard, more motivation to contemplate how to dial in our patios and pools. To help fill those longer days with joy, we trucked out to Joshua Tree to test gear for stargazing in the wild, to Jackson Hole to learn the basics of fly fishing, to Phoenix to bring back the essentials of grilling Sonoran-style, to Sonoma for design inspiration from a modernist wine country retreat, to Big Sur for a luxe finale to an all-electric road trip from Santa Barbara, and to Los Angeles for a refresher course on farm-to-table cooking from none other than Alice Waters. Yes, these are epic explorations in iconic destinations. But each and every story has a takeaway you can put to use wherever you are. So, my tip to you the next time you see a stunning sunset is to, yes, savor it and the grand view of the kindest star in the loveliest season. But don’t look only toward the horizon: Turn around and look for the gold around you, too.

—Hugh Garvey,

PHOTO EDITOR

Christine Bobbish STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Thomas J. Story

SENIOR EDITOR

Kristin Scharkey DIGITAL EDITOR

Jennifer Konerman SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR

Latheleene Brown

CONTRIBUTING HOME & DESIGN EDITOR

Christine Lennon

CONTRIBUTING GARDEN EDITOR

Deanna Kizis

DIGITAL PRODUCER/NEWSLETTER EDITOR

Nicole Clausing STAFF WRITER

J. D. Simkins

LIFESTYLE CONTRIBUTOR

Camille Styles

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

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VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL INITIATIVES

Matt Gross

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Ashley Dunne Sales SVP, MEDIA SOLUTIONS

Mort Greenberg VP, PARTNERSHIPS

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Pamela Coffey HEAD OF OUTDOOR

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SVP, REVENUE OPERATIONS

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DIRECTOR OF AD OPERATIONS

Mindy Morgan

ACCOUNT MANAGER

Cammeo Murray

E D ITO R-I N - CH I E F

Marketing CREATIVE DIRECTOR

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HEAD OF CUSTOM EVENTS

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VP, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT & CIRCULATION

Shawn Byers

THOMAS J. STORY

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

RIGHT HAND PAGE (Copyright left)

“GAME CHANGER - COPY” - US-Version

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BEST

OF T H E

WEST

SUIT UP

You’ll be ready to explore with Vuori’s new echo insulated bomber and ripstop climber pants, plus a pair of trusty Blundstone Chelsea boots and a West Perro sun hat.

New Ways To Nature Story by SU N S ET STAFF

Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

With more camping and glamping options than ever before, there’s never been a better time to explore the outdoors in the West. But we’re partial to experiences that slow us down and

open our senses, which is why we chose Alila Ventana Big Sur as the location for our cover shoot. Rightly legendary for its luxe-meets-wild vibes above the coast, it also offers signature activities such as sound baths and astronomy that channel the region's boho history, plus the option of

canvas glamping tents for just $240 a night. But that's not all. We headed out on the trail to take our trip to the next level: Join us to learn the art of foraging, on the next page. VENTANABIGSUR.COM

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Foraging 101

It’s a sweeping trend: collecting edible provisions in the wild. But if you’re thinking about foraging, it’s important to do so mindfully. When Nan Cole stops to point out the brown nuts you can pick off a California bay laurel tree, we're not prepared for the flavors of cacao and coffee that explode in our mouths—thanks to a pre-roasted handful stashed away in her pocket. These small morsels can be found in abundance throughout nearby coastal forests. “This,” Cole says, is “something you would forage.” The San Luis Obispo guide, who leads these excursions at Ventana Big Sur off the California coast (you can also find her on Instagram @foragerslo), identifies plants like she’s reading words off a page—calendula, poison hemlock, hedge nettle. Foraging allows her to “see the same place with new eyes,” Cole says. And, when appropriate, she gathers some material—like the nuts she takes home and then roasts with olive oil and sea salt, which she harvests herself. Try your hand at this meditative practice, and you can start to form an intimacy with plants. Foraging creates stakeholdership, Cole says, and “a desire to protect land.” As we wind our way up and down Ventana’s expansive oasis, Cole offers expert insight into the do’s and don’t’s.

Go with a pro.

DON'T

Have a grocery store mentality.

Download the app iNaturalist.

DON'T

Expect to always come back with plants.

Ideally, you'll head out

“Pick a little from one

You can contribute to

“It’s not just about

Cole, who is a trained

little from another,”

documenting your

aged items,” Cole

with a forager like

expert in plant identification. She under-

stands the art of the grazing method: al-

lowing nature to dictate what she picks.

bush, and then pick a says Cole, who tries to

forage so that if some-

one else passed by the area, they wouldn’t know it had been touched.

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

citizen science by

finds on this app, an

initiative from the California Academy of Sciences and the Nation-

al Geographic Society.

finding the cool forsays. Get to know the plants, observe their life cycles, and take

the time to see how

they’re impacted by

drought and habitat.

In Bloom Take camp cocktails to another level with foraged garnishes. The team at Ventana Big Sur

harvests calendula flowers and white sage grown on the property to finish off this gin-based

beverage. It’s important to note that white sage is increasingly

difficult to find in the wild due to over-foraging for its use in

things like smudge sticks, but

you can easily plant your own from seed in a garden. M A K E S 1 C O C K TA I L

1½ oz. Chareau Aloe Liqueur ½ oz. The Botanist Gin

3 slices cucumber, plus one more for garnish

3 white sage leaves, plus one bunch for garnish

Calendula petals, plus one flower for garnish

Fever-tree elderflower tonic water

Bunch of lemon balm, for garnish

1. Combine liqueur, gin, 2 cu-

cumber slices, sage leaves

and calendula petals with ice and shake.

2. Strain into an ice-filled Collins glass and top with tonic water.

3. Garnish with cucumber, lemon balm and sage bunches, and calendula flower.

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SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

San Juan Islands Orange blossom, honeysuckle, and sandalwood will transport you to the Washington coast.

“Imagine yourself sitting by a cozy fire in a cedar cabin in a mountainous Californian town.” That’s how the Seattlebased ice cream-making team behind Frankie & Jo describes their California Cabin flavor. Pine and smoked vanilla meet coconut and oat milk, balanced by black pepper cardamom shortbread cookie chunks in these scoops that are entirely plant-based—and, yes, that means no dairy. It’s the perfect treat to GET take on your next A SCOOP summer adventure, Frankie & Jo’s ships four-pint boxes nationwhether that’s in wide, or you can join the Pint your backyard, at Club to get four flavors the beach, or deep delivered to your door monthly. Order at in the forest. frankieandjos.com

Zion Desert lavender meets sage and dried herbs in this sweetsmelling ode to southern Utah.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: THOMAS J. STORY; REVA KELLER

WE’RE OBSESSED WITH THIS CAMPING-INSPIRED TREAT.

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HOME

GARDEN

Vineyard Views

A second-generation vintner and her half-sister, both interior designers, put their heads together to build a home on a Napa vineyard with deep, sentimental roots—and views for days. Story by CH RI STI N E LE N N O N • Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

didn’t take long for Tobin Heminway and her father, Jay, to choose the perfect spot on their land near St. Helena for a new two-bedroom ranch house. They’d memorized the contours and viewpoints of the 200-acre property in the Chiles Valley near Lake Hennessey, 31 of which are planted to vine, when the two of them explored the land together on his motorcycle during her childhood weekend visits. “My parents split up when I was five,” Heminway remembers. “They went together to Italy when my father was there as a Fulbright scholar, and they came home separately. I grew up in Berkeley and came up to St. Helena on the weekends and summer vacations, back in the 1970s when it was only a small town with a bunch of feed and seed stores and Keller’s market.” In 1969, Jay left his post as a sculpture professor at the University of California, Berkeley, and bought the hardTobin Heminway scrabble property, joining the nascent back-to-the-land and her husband movement brewing among his peers. He lived in a ramRay Hannigan transplanted olive shackle former hunting lodge that was the only standing trees from her fa- structure on the land, where his wife, Pam, still resides. ther’s house down That home is closer, in distance and style, to the rustic the hill, adding a tasting room and cellars where the family ages their wine. familiar touch to Longtime friend, chef Alice Waters, still serves a bright their new home. and lively Green & Red Zinfandel as the house wine at her famed restaurant Chez Panisse, though the label is a relatively unsung hero among increasingly flashy Napa Valley brands. You may not have heard of Green & Red, but

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

Heminway’s longtime friend, artist Elena Colombo, designed a fire bowl that doubles as a garden sculpture, offering cozy vibes for sipping a glass of wine next to the pool.

chances are you know the wineries like Turley and Scribe that buy their grapes, some produced by 100-year-old Rancho Catacula vines. “My dad didn’t come here with the idea that he’d plant grapes, but he found those old vines and then started slowly,” Heminway says. She was by her father’s side handcorking their first public vintage, made with a basket press, in 1977. Decades later, Heminway and her husband Ray Hannigan uprooted their New York lives and careers (she is a former film producer turned interior designer; he is a real-estate lawyer) to head West to work side by side with Jay, who was nearing retirement and struggling with some health issues. For years, Hannigan and Heminway had been coming out for two weeks of the annual harvest to observe and take copious notes. The plan was to complete their education, learning the nuances of grape growing and wine-making full-time, and step into the shoes that Heminway, her father’s only child, knew she would fill one day. Building that

two-bedroom ranch house for the couple, with a guest room for their adult daughter, a garden, and an outdoor kitchen built for entertaining, was a critical step toward making that long-held dream a reality. “We built on the spot where my dad and I used to camp,” she says. “It’s a flat pad at the top of a hill. We’d hike up here and pitch a tent, and stay up late to watch shooting stars.” Heminway’s dream was to build a romantic, Cliff May-inspired single-story home with a courtyard and a vine-covered pergola, like the ones she admired as a child growing up in the Bay Area. “We were living in a loft in Manhattan, and we wanted a funky California ranch. But my dad said, ‘No way. You’d be crazy to build a wood house up here,’” she says. “He was worried about fire. And he was right.” Heminway and Hannigan enlisted the local architecture firm ChandlerWorkshop to design a modern steel, glass, and stucco home that has the spirit of a heritage ranch house, just made with more durable, practical materials. To hear Heminway tell the story of what happened next, that decision was the last easy one she would make for some time. Her father Local architecture died suddenly in 2019. The house was firm Chandlerunfinished, and it was well before anyWorkshop deone was ready to take over the busisigned a modern steel, glass, and ness. Enlisting the help of her younger stucco home that half-sister, Taylor Jacobson, a Los Anhas the spirit of a geles-based interior designer with a heritage ranch long list of local resources and conhouse, just with more durable, tacts, had always been part of the plan, practical though the scope of her involvement materials. grew. Jacobson stepped in to take over the project while Heminway and Hannigan handled the wine business. “We had to dive right into the 2019 harvest, which was massive,” Heminway says. “I needed her, and she was there. That’s the blessing of a sister relationship. I’ve seen her career take off and how it’s developed. I knew that she understood what we wanted. And we communicated so well. It’s been amazing for our relationship.” Jacobson, who had visited the property a few times as a teenager, understood the brief completely. She incorporated some feminine touches, like a pink DWR sofa with a vintage kilim rug in the living area, and a powder room covered in a discontinued Hermès wallpaper, to add some warmth and charm to the angular house. “I knew it would be really fun to collaborate with Tobin, choosing paint colors, tile, lighting, and fixtures,” says Jacobson. Because of their 11-year age difference, the two weren’t very close growing up. Decorating a house was a long-delayed bonding experience for them. “I knew this California design world better than Tobin did, and we worked together to incorporate some of their furniture from the New York apartment and make it work for their new life,” Jacobson says. The well-considered kitchen was a gift to Hannigan, a skilled amateur chef, who got the built-in pasta-making station of his dreams, with racks of rolling pins displayed proudly on the wall above it. It was his idea to order the

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

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“We wake up every morning and we can’t believe the beauty that surrounds us.”

Heminway and her husband Ray Hannigan dove right into the 2019 harvest while the house project was underway.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Vintage Saarinen chairs surround a rosewood dining table with metal inlay. The overhead pendant is by Nickey Kehoe.

wine-colored BlueStar range with green knobs as an homage to their legacy and surroundings. Of all of the special custom details, the hand-milled and hyper-local black walnut accents stand out. “A huge tree came down at my dad’s house,” Heminway says. “He had this plan to use the wood for cabinetry, the bar, the front door, and our mantels. That tree was so giving. To me, the wood makes it feel like my father’s here with us.” Outside, a kitchen is outfitted with a pizza oven, a gas grill, and a Big Green Egg charcoal cooker. There’s a sizable pool with plenty of seating. Because the soil on the hilltop isn’t suited to grow much, multiple large containers planted with trees, shrubs, and herbs create a feeling of lushness. A fire bowl designed by Heminway’s longtime friend, artist Elena Colombo, doubles as a garden sculpture even when it’s unlit. And small conversation areas with outdoor furniture from Hay dot the property. The real star of the show is the 360-degree view.

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

In the living room, the sisters paired a DWR rose sofa with a flat-weave kilim rug. The coffee table is by Garza Marfa, and the rattan-wrapped vintage side tables are from Pat McGann in Los Angeles.

“We wake up every morning and we can’t believe the beauty that surrounds us,” Heminway says. “It’s insane.” Jay’s wildfire concerns were eerily prescient when the Glass Fire scorched the region in fall 2020. The house remained intact, but Green & Red lost an entire vintage because of smoke-tainted grapes. Hannigan learned the hard way what Heminway already knew from growing up around the agricultural community in Northern California: The fantasy of vineyard life in the West conceals a less bucolic reality. “I think he thought it was going to be sunny and lovely,” says Heminway, with a laugh. “He was a real estate litigator fighting in New York City, but every day he says, ‘I can’t believe how exhausting this is.’ We work seven days a week, and there’s always a new challenge. The learning curve is so great. But it’s also incredibly rewarding.” Despite the setbacks, Heminway and Hannigan are settling into their new roles, and their new home, beautifully. Hannigan has made it a priority to open the property to more visitors, and happily leads tours and hosts tastings for visitors, which was a part of the job that made her father “grumpy,” Heminway says. And she has assumed the helm of her family business with grace and gratitude, alongside winemaker Aaron Whitlatch, and Salvador Duran, the vineyard manager. “You can feel my father’s presence, and see his work, all over this land. The way he planted the vines, and carved out the hillsides and the valley, feels like sculpture. He worked slowly and deliberately, and was always an artist,” she says. “And now we have a living, moving painting just outside our window, everywhere we turn.”

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

A BlueStar range is paired with Fireclay tile. The pendant lights over the island are by Miri Mara in Carpinteria, his first experiment making porcelain shades. The bar stools are by Thomas Hayes.

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

In the powder room, discontinued Hermès wallpaper adds a playful touch to a vintage mirror and brass sconces. A custom banquette with Pierre Frey upholstered cushions creates a cozy nook with black and cane dining chairs by Industry West. A Noguchi lantern hangs in the primary bedroom alongside a vintage 1970s Swedish tapestry. The custom headboard and nightstands are by Chad Peterson. A McGhee & Co. bench and Unison Home dresser complete the look, as does Uno the dog.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

S PO N S O RE D C O N T E N T

TRIP PLANNER

CULTURE, NATURE,AND GRANDEUR An immersion in Grand Canyon West.

The view of the Colorado River as seen from Guano Point

STO RY BY J. D. S I M KI N S

here is an undeniable sensation of the prehistoric when standing among the towering rock sentinels and bustling waters of Grand Canyon West, a marvel shaped by the slow churn of time that, to this day, remains sacred to its original Hualapai Nation stewards. Their centuries-long custodianship of this land is equally spectacular and of benefit to visitors seeking to embrace both the location’s culture and natural grandeur. Situated on the west rim of the storied canyon, Grand Canyon West offers travelers any number of memorable experiences: Extravagant selfie-worthy views, rich history, outdoor adventure—all easily accessible from Las Vegas. On a recent trip I made it a point to experience it all, to fully grasp how the seemingly disparate parts coalesce for an immersive and enriching experience. TAKE THE LONG VIEW

The Hualapai imprint is evident immediately upon arrival at Eagle Point, home to the horseshoeshaped Skywalk that draws visitors to its jaw-dropping surroundings and transparent walkway with a clear line of sight to the canyon floor 4,000 feet below. Before venturing onto the platform, I read the stories of the territory’s tumultuous history that adorn the building’s walls, studied glass-encased Hualapai artifacts, and listened to the traditional music and story-telling that filled Skywalk and the room, tales chronicling Eagle Point the strength of a people whose perseverance against insurmountable odds is as impressive as the environs they call home. On the Skywalk, I gazed outward at the spectacular formations and to the eagle-shaped rock that gave this place its name, one that’s intrinsic to the origin story of the Hualapai. Back on

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RUN THROUGH HISTORY

While you can easily opt for a day trip, overnight accommodations are available at the cozy, rustic The Cabins at Grand Canyon West. Staying in the cabins put me in convenient proximity to a zipline that allows for an adrenaline-fueled 40 mile-per-hour ride high over the canyon. Also nearby were helicopter and pontoon tours that meander passengers above, through, and finally down The author takes it all in into the base of the canyon and a hikable trail. It was here that I embarked on a contemplative run. A little beyond the first mile, I reached a part of the Quartermaster Canyon rim, where, in 1874, younger Hualapai members enduring the “Long Walk to La Paz” at the gunpoints of U.S. Cavalrymen escaped down a hidden trail into this very canyon. There was a haunting beauty in the stillness of this vast place. Away from crowds, the only sounds emanated from my own footsteps and intermittent birdsong. I saw or heard no other human, the way the natural world intended. It had been an unforgettable day, thanks to the hosts of these stunning environs, of reflection and appreciation. THE RIVER OF LIFE

Skywalk and Eagle Point

solid, non-cantilevered ground, I made my way through the property’s Native American Village of housing, sweat lodges and other traditional structures, models of architecture that stood here long before any outsiders set foot on this land.

On my last day, I rendezvoused with Andre Wakuyuta, a Hualapai Game and Fish ranger who previously served as a guide Hualapai River Runners for the Hualapai River Runners, get you close to the action the group who conduct heartpumping single- and multi-day rafting trips out of Peach Springs that offer perhaps the most (literally) immersive way to experience the canyon. On our trek along the water I was educated, as one is on a river tour, by Andre’s expertise on local geology, seasonal weather patterns, spotting wildlife, and hunting big game. It was here, standing alongside rushing waters and flanked by canyon walls, that I observed the rich appreciation by Andre and his tribe for everything the Earth and this life affords. Their way, evident to visitors who choose to pay attention, is rooted in ancient beliefs in a conscious planet, existence, and universe that are seamless. There is no beginning. No end. Settlers, profiteers, missionaries, and tourists may come and go, but Hualapai Nation, you’ll begin to understand when you visit with open eyes, is forever. Buy tickets at grandcanyonwest.com

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The west rim is heart-pounding, soul-searching, bucketlist-checking adrenaline rushes you’ve never felt or seen before, including one of the largest glass cantilever bridges in the world that will have you stepping 4,000 feet out over the Grand Canyon floor. Skywalk is just one of the ways you can jolt your senses and ignite your spirit at Grand Canyon West. Plan your adventure today.

SKYWALK + GENERAL ADMISSION STARTING FROM $64 FOR A LIMITED TIME Get your tickets today.

MORE TO EXPLORE

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grandcanyonwest.com

Helicopter & Pontoon Tour • Zipline • Whitewater Rafting • Eagle Point • Guano Point Hualapai Tribe Cultural Attractions • Dining • Shopping • Overnight Accommodations

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Cabin Fever

Story by CH RI STI N E LE N N O N

Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

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DEEP IN THE WASHINGTON WOODS, THE CREATIVE MINDS BEHIND SEATTLE’S COOLEST RETAIL CONCEPT, GLASSWING, CREATED AN IDYLLIC CREEKSIDE COMPOUND OF VACATION HIDEAWAYS.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Seattle designers Andy Whitcomb and Forest Eckley saw this “goofy asymmetric A-frame” in Granite Falls and knew they “had to figure out how to get the money to buy it.”

There’s a kind of romantic idealism around so-called “cabin life” that’s been brewing for years, collecting hashtags and admirers along the way. People who search for these woodland retreats, the more rustic and remote the better, are longing for peace, quiet, and simpler times. It’s important to remember that anyone 30 and under has never lived in a world without readily available cell phones. Nokia released its first mass-produced iteration in 1992. The ensuing three decades have seen the tech sector explode with new ways to interrupt your peaceful afternoons. And people are feeling the crunch of constant accessibility in crowded cities with excess concrete acutely. Two young Seattle creatives, Andy Whitcomb and Forest Eckley, designers of the modern furniture line Brackish and owners of the Glasswing store and greenhouse, were among those design-conscious urbanites searching for a way out. “We had the concept first before the location,” says Whitcomb, who spent his weekends driving out to the nearby wilderness for long hikes, and wanted an option to extend his stay. “We knew we wanted to have an artist’s cabin in the woods, and we studied a lot of cabins of people like J.B. Blunk in Inverness, California, and George Nakashima’s homes in New Hope, Pennsylvania, that were hand-built and expanded over decades, out of necessity. We talked about what resonated with us and what designs are holding up and why. We spent a lot of time thinking about it. That was the best part.” The business partners, who have been making furniture for a decade and have had the shop for about eight years, watched their beloved city explode with development, and not always happily. “There’s always been between seven to 10 cranes in the skyline as long as I’ve lived here,” says Eckley of the construction that contributes to Seattle’s rapid growth. “The increase in density has been constant. That’s one of the rea1

2 1. Guests can take their pick of three Canyon Creek Cabins, each furnished with a thoughtful mix of handmade furniture and collected vintage pieces. 2. “There’s something about the river and the rocks and the trees with the moss,” says Eckley. “It creates a magical environment that you can’t really understand until you’re standing in it. The photos don’t really re-create that feeling.”

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

sons why we wanted to get out in the mountains.” In 2018, they drove out to see a property in Granite Falls, near Everett. “The area has incredible fishing, river kayaking, hiking, climbing, and backpacking,” says Whitcomb. But there was nowhere to stay. “Once we drove out there and saw the river, and the unique and goofy asymmetric A-frame on one of the lots, we knew we had to figure out how to get the money to buy it and make it happen.” After convincing a few friends to invest in the two neighboring parcels with them, one with a one-room fishing hut (which Whitcomb says “was a lifeless shell of a building, just a shelter”), the other with the aforementioned A-frame, they knew they were onto something special. “There’s something about the river and the rocks and the trees with moss,” says Eckley. “It creates a magical environment that you can’t really understand until you’re standing in it. The photos don’t really re-create that feeling.” Over the next two years, they brought in professional contractors to upgrade the plumbing and the electric, and they did much of the rest of the finishing work themselves. They took a slow, deliberate approach to furnishing the structures with a thoughtful mix of handmade furniture, art made by their friends, and collected vintage pieces. They acquired a neighboring vacant lot, removed the abandoned RV that was left on it, and brought in a tiny shipping container. The three houses all feel like they’re of a piece, but maintain their own

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

unique personalities. By early 2021, all three cabins were “activated,” as they say, and ready to rent. The cabins can be booked separately, but there are select weekends on the calendar when all three properties are blocked off to be rented together, for reunions, group events, or retreats. Whitcomb and Eckley trek out to the cabins about once a week to check in, unplug for a minute, and take in their surroundings. Even though it’s just a 10-minute drive into the nearest town, it feels worlds away. “We always encourage guests to buy groceries and maximize their time at the cabins,” says Eckley. “Plan one or two hikes or activities. It takes so much energy to pack and get out the door and get settled that it’s good to book two nights. Otherwise, it’s hard to relax.” What is there to say that hasn’t been said before about our desire to unplug, to be in a place where the Wi-Fi isn’t needed and the only things competing for our attention are the crackle of a fireplace and the sounds of wildlife in the distance? We’re stressed. We’re addicted to dopamine. We’re finding it increasingly difficult to live away from screens. And a cabin in the woods is an environment tailor-made for a kind of fast from modern life. “Sit in the hot tub, make a fire, drink a little whiskey, make some food,” says Whitcomb. “It’s hard to leave the cabin when you’re there. By nature and by design, you just want to stay and enjoy. And not leave.”

1. All three houses feel like they’re of a piece, but maintain unique personalities. 2. Eckley and Whitcomb did much of the finishing work themselves and added art made by their friends. 3. One cabin is housed in a tiny shipping container. 4. You can make a fire, sit in the hot tub, and drink a little whiskey during a cabin stay. 5. The cabins can be booked separately, but there are select weekends when all three can be rented together.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

“We always encourage guests to buy groceries and maximize their time at the cabins,” Eckley says.

A-FRAME CLUB

The Getaway Plan

Winter Park, Colorado If you’re as big a fan of the A-frame as we are, this hotel should be in the running for your next vacation. Construction is almost finished on the 31-cabin property, complete with a historic saloon turned restaurant. Designed by Skylab Architecture, the 450-square-foot cabins are set on low stilts and connected by a series of boardwalk-like pathways amid the pines, so it doesn’t disrupt the ecology of the forest floor. AFRAMECLUB.COM

DESIGNED FOR PEOPLE TO CHECK IN AND CHECK OUT, THESE RUSTICCHIC CABINS EMBRACE LIFE OFF THE BEATEN PATH, FROM THE HIGH DESERT OF CALIFORNIA TO THE DEEP WOODS OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

THE LITTLE CABIN AT JOFFRE CREEK

YONDER ESCALANTE

Escalante, Utah Fun and functional single-room huts furnished with leather ottomans, daybeds, and comfortable bedding dot this 20-acre property in southern Utah. Each of the 22 cabins has a private firepit and a picnic table for al fresco meals. STAYYONDER.COM

Mont Currie, British Columbia Sit on the deck and listen to the babbling creek. Admire the view of the mountains. Hop in the cedar barrel sauna. Drift off to sleep in a loft bed nest. Repeat. Just 45 minutes from Whistler Mountain, this secluded cabin, which shares a property with a larger rental house, is ranked among B.C.’s best retreats. And it’s dog-friendly! JOFFRECREEKCABINS.CA/ THE-LITTLE-CABIN

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SKYLAB; JOFFRE CREEK CABINS; LAURA DART/LAURADART.COM; @DIRTANDGLASS; KIM & NASH FINLEY

BLUE SKY CENTER

New Cuyama, California “Offbeat but comfortable” is how the team behind this experience describes five Shelton huts on a rustic but homey property. The design is as simple as it gets. But the nonprofit’s larger purpose will appeal to anyone who prioritizes using tourism dollars to support local initiatives. BLUESKYCENTER.ORG/VISIT

HYGGE BARN

Tahoma, California A young family embarked on a DIY adventure to turn a two-bedroom cabin into this “Hygge Barn.” With a picture-perfect outdoor gathering space and boho interiors, the barn is ideal for long nights in. It’s away from it all, but walking distance from South Lake Tahoe. TAHOELITTLEBLACKCABINS.COM OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

The heat is here. What to do in your garden now.

Story by D EAN NA KIZ I S

YOUR

SUMMER GARDEN CHECKLIST

PLANT Plant seedlings for summer

fruits and vegetables, including

cucumber, eggplant, melons, and tomatoes.

Plant summer annuals from

seed or seedling: Blanket flower

(Gaillardia), calendula, marigold, Mexican hat (Ratibida colum-

nifera), and zinnia are all good picks.

M A I N TA I N Irrigate fruit trees, citrus, and

flowering trees deeply every other week (or weekly in hot climates). Hoe weed seedlings on a dry,

clear morning, and the sun will kill their tiny roots by evening.

Water deeply before you pull

mature weeds, whose taproots

come out of damp soil more easily than dry soil.

Weeding and watering are early

summer’s main tasks. Monitor

your drip systems, hand water, and allot around 20 minutes a

day to weeding for a picture-perfect garden.

PROTECT Too much water during high

temperatures fosters fungal diseases. Check the soil with a

screwdriver. If it goes into the soil easily and the blade feels damp

and cool to the touch, there is no need to water yet.

Keep leaves of cucumber, mel-

on, and squash dry to stave off powdery mildew.

H A RV E S T Pick yellow summer squash and

zucchini when they reach 5 to 6

inches long. For stuffing, salads,

and stir fries, collect squash flowers in the morning when they are fully open.

Pick ripe fruits and vegetables

daily. Doing so prevents rot, and

keeps many crops flowering and producing.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Epic Harvest

HOW TO INCREASE YOUR GARDEN’S YIELD, WITH TIPS FROM YOUTUBE STAR KEVIN ESPIRITU. Kevin Espiritu’s YouTube channel, Epic Gardening,

is a sensation with over 1.5 million followers who

flock to him for his breezy style and easy-to-understand gardening tips. His mission, he says, is to

“teach the world to grow.” To that end, we asked for

his recommendations on how to coax more veggies out of the garden this summer. Here’s what he says: Tip 1: Put the plants in the right place.

“Most vegetables that grow in the summer want full sun, six to eight hours a

day, so you want southern exposure beEspiritu says.

Small Budget? No Problem “I’m a garden writer with dirty

knees,” says Kier Holmes, a landscape designer and avid gar-

dener. Her new book, The Garden Refresh: How to Give Your Yard

Big Impact on a Small Budget, is

filled with tips on how to do just

that. “I’m money-conscious so I

have trouble even spending my client’s money,” Holmes admits. “With this book, I want to help their garden more beautiful.”

people save money and make

Some takeaways? Holmes recommends starting plants from seed: “You can

find more unique varieties, plus they are a fraction of the cost of nursery-grown plants.” She also advises getting free wood-chip mulch delivered by tree companies or your local electric company. (As long as it’s not from black walnut or eucalyptus trees, which contain a chemical that prevents other plants from

growing.) And Holmes advocates for thrift store and flea market hunts to find

used garden furniture, containers, and even tools and building materials. “Not

only will this save you money, but one-of-a-kind items personalize your garden and make it unique,” she says.

Above all, she wants readers to “avoid the insta-garden.” Says Holmes, “Gar-

dening is about the process and the journey, plus a garden is never really done.”

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

Tip 2: Make sure you’re watering the

right amount. “If your plant isn’t doing

well, you’re either under- or over-watering,” he says. If you want to know if your soil is too wet or too dry, he recom-

mends the “finger test.” “Take a finger, dig about 6 inches down, and take a

look at how wet that soil feels,” says Es-

piritu. “If it’s moist, you’re fine. If it’s soaking wet, your roots can drown and die. If it’s dry, you’re not watering enough.” Tip 3: “Mulch is underrated,” Espiritu

says. He prefers preventing evaporation with shredded straw, which is light in

color so it reflects heat. He also recommends grass clippings or leaves.

Tip 4: Stagger your plantings. “If you love beans, and they’re a 45- to 60-day crop, don’t plant them all in May or you’ll get everything in July,” he says. Instead, succession-plant beans every two weeks so you get regular crops.

Tip 5: Go easy on yourself. “All I do is make mistakes,” Espiritu says. “It’s a

great opportunity to say, ‘Why did that one die?’ Then you can learn from it.”

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHOTO FROM THE GARDEN REFRESH © COPYRIGHT 2022 BY KIER HOLMES, PHOTOGRAPH BY EMILY MURPHY. PUBLISHED BY TIMBER PRESS. USED BY PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.; JON SNIP

cause that will give you the most sun,”

Water Wise As summer continues apace, plants can wither and demand more water, so try this list of drought-tolerant plants from the Sunset Plant Collection. While there’s no official designation for what makes a lowwater plant, the team partnered with the University

will get to be dinner-

purple-leaved, and hold

States, Dianella blooms

gated leaf with a red, or-

color well and are very

Classified as a small tree

popular with native bum-

Growing in the 2- to 3-foot

the hottest temperatures

Supersemps ‘Hens

and Chicks’: Sempervivum are typically 4

to 5 inches, but these

plate size. They hold their SUNSET PLANT COLLECTION

FOR RETAILERS NEAR YOU, GO TO SUNSETWESTERNGARDENCOLLECTION.COM

of California, Davis, to complete a two-year irrigation study. All the plants listed here survived their trials with flying colors. Gorgeous plants that save water, too? We say cheers to that.

low-water. Perfect for

succulent and container gardens.

Lagerstroemia ‘Delta Fuchsia’: These crepe myrtles at-

tract pollinators, are

their color in full sun.

or large shrub, use La-

gerstroemia as a focal point in a garden.

Dianella ‘Coolvista’: From Australia and

climate-adapted for the Western United

with a blue flower and is blebees. Works well in a border and looks like a grass, but doesn’t go

dormant, so expect a

blue-gray spikey look all year round.

Lantana ‘Cosmic

Firestorm’: Beloved by butterflies, this

Lantana has a varie-

ange, and yellow flower.

range, Lantana is good to use as a ground cover.

Tecoma ‘Bells of

Fire’: Native to the

Sonoran Desert and beloved by hum-

mingbirds, Tecoma is

compact and blooms in

all summer long. Since it

grows to 5- or 6-feet tall,

use it in the back of a border or as a shorter screening plant.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Story by D EAN NA KIZ I S • Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

OUTDOOR OASIS

TO GET THE MOST OUT OF A PATIO, A PHOENIX REAL ESTATE AGENT TURNED TO DESIGNER CHARLIE RAY FOR A GARDEN THAT’S COOL AND COMPOSED. OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

To create an outdoor dining space, Almquist paired an antique French dining table from Inner Gardens in Los Angeles with Crate & Barrel upholstered end chairs.

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

Grant Almquist lives in a landmark. His bungalow is part of a compound known as Casa Blanca, which was built by the Kellogg family in the ’30s in Paradise Valley, Arizona, and later turned into a resort in 1958. It just so happens that Almquist’s casita was once the pool cabana, while neighbors live in the former library, restaurant, and gift shop. So when he decided to renovate his outdoor courtyard, Almquist wanted his garden to pay homage to the resort, which had a Moorish theme, but not to overdo it. (“Neighbors can go a little crazy,” Almquist says.) Instead, he wanted to incorporate the Sonoran Desert environs, add a layer of Southern California style, and infuse everything with a bit of Mediterranean influence. One might think such a tall order would result in chaos, but landscape designer Charlie Ray of Phoenix and Tucsonbased The Green Room Collaborative knew exactly how to create a courtyard that is as tranquil as it is pulled together. Before Ray could work his magic, however, he had to contend with what he describes as an unattractive outdoor space with old palm trees that offered no shade and a sea of travertine paving that had to be removed. (It reflected a harsh glare.) “There was no rhyme or reason to the garden when we started,” he says. “It was completely unusable.” The home’s footprint is a compact 1,200 square feet, so Ray had courtyard walls built to wrap around three-quarters of the property, thus expanding the chance for indoor/outdoor living and entertaining. Fond du Lac limestone pavers from Wisconsin replaced the travertine. Of particular interest are the trees: “They’re the first thing people ask about,” Almquist says. Salvaged from a property that was about to be developed, seven mature Ironwood trees provide shade. “Getting that shade canopy was one of the big drivers for this project,” Ray says. “And now it is truly a year-round, usable area.” One of the charms of the courtyard garden is its size. At a tidy 2,000 square feet, it’s long on charm, and it doesn’t skimp on big ticket items, either. “There’s a lot of big design moves in a small space,” says Ray, and he’s not exaggerating. There are not one but two water features, an outdoor kitchen, an eating area, a fireplace and lounge, and an outdoor shower. Moroccan touches that evoke the former resort can be found in the arch in the fireplace, and the glazed Zellige tile around the shower. “The point was to implement a lot of the amenities we would usually get in a large property,” Ray says. Almquist agrees: “It’s like we replicated a house outside my house,” he says. “I absolutely love it.”

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

Homeowner Grant Almquist (center) chats with partner David Miller (left) and designer Charlie Ray around a granite millstone coffee table from Big Daddy’s Antiques in Los Angeles.

Desert Calm HOW TO PULL TOGETHER THESE SOOTHING OUTDOOR GARDEN VIBES. “I told Charlie I wanted everything to look creamy and dreamy,” says

Almquist of his garden’s color palette. In turn, Ray drew on his lifelong love of fine art. “I really try to bring artistic vignettes into the land-

scape, and I look at it like artwork. It’s not about just one element; it’s about the collective,” Ray says. Here’s how to re-create the look.

Stick with

complementary

light tones. The pale

grays of the

Fond du Lac stone pull

out the silvers of the Ironwood

trees. An-

tique French glassware

was sourced from Etsy.

2. Make sure

the plants comple-

ment the color

scheme.

Here, green succulents

and specimen aloes

play into the silvery hues in vintage Willy Guhl planters.

3. Whereas

some might

have sought out more assertive

upholstery, Almquist

chose out-

door Perennials fabric that is just one tone

darker than the walls to

keep things subdued.

4. You can get pattern in

unexpected ways. Ray

embraced “tone on

tone,” and then tree shadows

bring “drama.” Ce-

ramic bells (opposite

page) are

by Michele Quan.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Unbox the West

The Sunset Subscription Box delivers the Best of the West straight to your door! Every three months, you’ll get a box full of home, design, food, and gardening products curated by Sunset editors to help you make the most of every season. You can choose the box that fits your style and price point, then get ready to be surprised and delighted by what you find inside! Think artisanal food and culinary tools in the fall and holiday decorations and entertaining products in the winter. It’s the perfect way to give the gift of the West to family or friends.

Sunset Page Template.indd 1

Exclusive Sunset puzzle in every box!

4/19/22 12:44 PM

FOOD

DRINK

The Art of Alice

Alice Waters’ new Los Angeles restaurant is just the beginning: The renowned chef has a grand vision for transforming the way California students eat. Story by MAG DALE NA O ’ N EAL Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

enter Lulu, Alice Waters’ new restaurant at the Hammer Museum in Los Angeles, you first make your way through a maze of guests rocking side to side in one of a dozen Herman Miller Magis chairs strewn about the courtyard. You find your way to the host stand then pass a long, reclaimed table topped with wooden bowls and copper platters of fresh farmers market finds, like the Kishu mandarins that grace the dessert menu and Meyer lemons releasing their essence into the air. You might stop to inspect the indigo pillows lining both indoor and outdoor booths, or the fabric mosaics woven into art pieces above the bar. All are made by Los Angeles local Christina Kim, entirely from scraps at her studio. Kim also designs all of Waters’ clothes, the renowned restaurateur and author tells me, sporting a navy-patterned caftan dress as we speak over spritzes and salads adorned with faultlessly poached eggs, broccolini, and lentils at the bar. These details are no surprise, as Waters and chef David Tanis aren’t attempting to reinvent the wheel at Lulu. They are instead revisiting their roots with basic preparations of the best ingredients in a restaurant where even the smallest elements are treated like rare gems. This echoes the type of space I first stepped into about 10 years ago when I interned at Chez Panisse. I spent four weeks in the pastry department of Waters’ iconic Berkeley restaurant, sorting through trays of blueberries for the fresh fruit bowls that graced the dessert menu. The final step of preparing the dish for service required me to head into the backyard and trim grape leaves from a tree that hung over picnic tables, where we ate staff meals on sunny days. The leaves needed to cover just enough of the serving bowl so that they climbed up the edges when the fruit was placed on top. And they all needed to be a similar size so that, as was explained to me, if a table got two fruit bowls, they would appear consistent. How did I end up as an intern at the young age of 14, might you ask? The summer before I started high school, I wowed

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

some family friends, who worked in the kitchen at the time, with a galette that I brought to a dinner party. They felt confident I could learn and grow leaps and bounds at Chez Panisse, and my mother agreed, permitting me to take the bus from downtown Oakland before 7 a.m. for a month. I remember watching Waters walk through the kitchen, warmly greeting each employee and tasting whatever they had in front of them. Unknowingly, she taught me that every step, ingredient, and member of the team she so meticulously had put together mattered equally—then at Chez, now at Lulu. Today, Waters’ efforts toward education continue to be at the forefront. She told me that she agreed to the idea of taking over the Lulu restaurant space almost immediately upon hearing of its ties to the University of California, Los Angeles. The Hammer is just a few short blocks from the main stretch of UCLA’s campus and exists as a free museum for all. Lulu sits between galleries that have showcased pieces from notable artists ranging from Impressionist painter Vincent Van Gogh to figurative painter and founder of the Underground Museum, Noah Davis. Waters wants Lulu to be seen as a permanent installation within the museum, with Tanis as daily curator. Each day, he combines his globally-inspired palate with farmers markets’ premier offerings like romanesco, watermelon radishes, apples, whole walnuts, and a variety of potatoes and beets. Lulu is one part of a series of ambitious projects by Waters that are nearing fruition: She is working alongside the UC system to help the universities shift their dining options over the next five years to an entirely regenerative program involving local farmers, while also integrating farmers markets on campus and furthering education around land stewardship, nourishment, and community building. The initiative will begin with The Alice Waters Institute at the University of California, Davis, which will soon operate as a resource and cultural center for both the university and surrounding Sacramento community. The project will soon expand to UCLA, and Waters hopes to help convert the entire UC system to regenerative sources by 2027.

Alice Waters and chef David Tanis aren’t attempting to reinvent the wheel.

In the meantime, you can head to Lulu for a taste of Waters’ and Tanis’ exemplary preparations. Odds are you’ll never get the same dish twice—unless you opt for one of the staple salads or sides, like rosemary potato chips or almonds tossed with parmesan and herbs. The attention to detail and obvious admiration of simple ingredients offer an edible education to each and every diner who graces the reclaimed tables. Or you can try your hand at becoming a student of the pair thanks to these recipes they’ve generously shared with us from the restaurant’s menu. Personally, I haven’t looked at blueberries or grape leaves the same since I crossed paths with Waters a decade ago.

French Lentil Salad with Broccolini and Soft-Cooked Eggs This salad highlights farmers market broccolini with a boost of flavor from fresh herbs and carrots that are mixed into quickly cooked lentils. S E RV ES 4

2 cups French lentils 2 tsp. sea salt 1 bay leaf

2 sprigs fresh thyme

4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup diced yellow onion ½ cup diced carrot

½ tsp. fresh black pepper 1 tsp. chopped parsley 1 tsp. red wine vinegar

2 lbs. broccolini, trimmed 4 large eggs

1. Add lentils to a small pot filled with water, ensuring lentils are covered by at least 2 inches of water. Add 1

tsp. salt, bay leaf, and 1 thyme sprig to the pot. Cook 30 minutes or until lentils are tender but not mushy.

Drain and remove herbs. Add cooked lentils to a medium bowl.

2. In a saucepan over medium heat,

add 1 Tbsp. olive oil, diced onion, and diced carrots; cook until softened, about 5 minutes.

3. In a medium bowl, combine cooked vegetable mixture with cooked lentils. Chop the remaining thyme

leaves and add to the bowl along

with ½ tsp. salt, pepper, parsley, and

red wine vinegar. Stir well, taste, and adjust seasoning, adding salt, olive oil, and vinegar as necessary. Keep at room temperature.

4. Bring a large pot of water to a boil

and add broccolini. Cook 2–3 minutes until tender and bright green,

then remove from water with a spider strainer.

5. Add eggs to the pot of boiling water

and let cook 7 minutes. (The yolks will be a little runny; for firmer yolks, cook an extra 30–60 seconds.) Remove

from pot and transfer to an ice bath. Once cool enough to handle, peel and quarter eggs.

6. To serve, place a bed of lentils in the center of a plate and garnish with broccolini and eggs.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Grilled Chicken Breast with Greens

1. Season the chicken breast with ½ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper on both sides and rub with 1 Tbsp. olive oil.

2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss beets in 1 Tbsp. of olive oil and place on a foil-

While this dish may seem simple, it

lined baking sheet. Bake, until a fork

represents the Chez Panisse style of

pierces with ease, about 20 minutes.

making something simple as well as

possible. “This kind of ‘chicken salad’ of sorts can change with the seasons,”

Set aside to cool.

3. Lay chicken breast skin-side down

on a grill pan or cast-iron skillet over

Tanis says. “The base recipe is a grilled

medium-high heat. Cook 4-5 min-

chicken breast, salad greens, and a

utes, until skin is golden. Flip the

seasonal vegetable garnish.”

chicken and cook on the other side

S E RV ES 2

for 2 minutes, until firm to the touch.

(A digital meat thermometer should

1 whole boneless chicken breast, skin on

1 tsp. sea salt, divided

1 tsp. fresh black pepper, divided 2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided

4. Remove chicken from pan and let it rest for 5 minutes before slicing.

5. In a small bowl, make a vinaigrette

by combining the walnut oil, sherry

2 red or yellow beets, peeled and

vinegar, Dijon mustard, lemon juice,

quartered

and remaining salt and pepper.

2 Tbsp. walnut oil

Whisk until all ingredients are com-

1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar 1 tsp. Dijon mustard

1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

bined and the mixture emulsifies.

6. Place chicories in a salad bowl,

sprinkle with a bit of salt, and dress

3 cups loosely packed chicories (like radicchio, curly endive, or treviso)

¼ cup walnuts, for garnish

with the vinaigrette.

7. Slice the chicken crosswise into

¼-inch pieces. For each serving,

place half of the dressed greens on

a plate and lay some sliced chicken

on top or on the side, drizzling a little vinaigrette on the chicken.

8. Garnish with toasted walnuts and roasted beets.

THE WINE:

2020 Lioco Chardonnay, Sonoma County, California

TASTING NOTES:

Perfect Pairing We selected the ideal bottle to serve with this menu, and it’s available to members of our new wine club. Sign up for quarterly deliveries of the best wines in the West at sunset.com/wineclub

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

The nose transports you to an orchard full of green apples with hints of lemon pith, fresh cut green pineapple, and chamomile. The palate is uplifting with vibrant acidity.

WHY IT WORKS:

Crisp and bright, this Sonoma County Chardonnay offers a cleansing finish to Lulu’s classic California flavors.

Potato Chips with Rosemary “It’s important to find a variety of potato that gets crisp when fried,” says

Tanis of this herbaceous appetizer or

side dish. “We sometimes use a Yukon Gold type or Rose Fir. You can try to use small russets, but the only real

way to know if they will work is to test a few slices.”

M A K ES 4 S E RV I N G S 1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes

4 cups neutral frying oil (like rice bran) 2 Tbsp. olive oil

2 Tbsp. fresh rosemary, roughly chopped

Fine sea salt

1. Slice the potatoes crosswise as thinly as possible with a mandoline.

2. Rinse the sliced potatoes in several changes of cold water until water runs clear. Drain and transfer to a salad spinner, spin until as dry as

possible then blot well with towels— it’s important they are entirely dry before frying.

3. Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed pot to 375°F.

4. Fry a handful of potato slices at a

time, stirring frequently with a spider strainer, until golden. Remove from oil and drain on a rack set over a baking sheet.

5. When all potato slices are fried, transfer to a large bowl.

6. In a small skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat until glossy. Toss in roughly chopped rosemary.

7. When rosemary starts to sizzle,

about 30 seconds, drizzle oil and

rosemary over chips in bowl. Sprinkle with sea salt to taste and toss well.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Baked Goat Cheese with Mixed Greens “This dish is a Chez Panisse classic,” Tanis shares. A larger log of cheese can be used to easily increase the

yield of this recipe—which would make for a show-stopping accompaniment to a charcuterie spread. S E RV ES 2

1 5-oz. log fresh goat cheese

½ tsp. fresh thyme, finely chopped

½ tsp. fresh rosemary, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup fine breadcrumbs 1 head little gem

1 head frisée or other chicory

2 medium watermelon radishes (or

another colorful radish), thinly sliced

1. Cut goat cheese into discs about 1

inch thick. Lay discs on a plate and sprinkle with chopped thyme and chopped rosemary.

2. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and turn cheese over to coat both sides

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

with oil and herbs.

3. Preheat oven to 400°F. 4. Dust both sides of each disc with

breadcrumbs. Set directly on a baking sheet and bake until cheese is

warm and puffy and crumbs have begun to brown, about 5 minutes.

5. To serve, dress a mixture of little gem and frisée lightly with a good vinai-

grette (like the one used in the chicken breast and greens recipe on

page 44). Put a handful of dressed

lettuces on each plate and set warm goat cheese discs beside them.

Garnish with thinly sliced watermelon radishes.

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Unbridled

Bella Coola

“The inspiration for this cocktail was based on the mint julep

For a refreshing, nonalcoholic cocktail, West combines a bo-

the list at the Hungry Cat in Los Angeles,” says Lulu’s beverage

named Bella Coola after the Bella Coola River because Riverine

Hammer Museum was built in 1990 and the winner of the Ken-

M A K ES 1 C O C K TA I L

2 oz. AMASS Riverine

25 mint leaves, plus a sprig for garnish

½ oz. simple syrup

1 oz. orange juice

½ oz. blood-orange juice

and a David Lentz cocktail called the Pimlico that used to be on

tanical spirit with fresh, bright citrus flavors. “This cocktail is

director, Rosemary West. “The name came about because the

botanicals are sourced from the Pacific Northwest,” West says.

tucky Derby that year was Unbridled.”

2 oz. Old Forester Rye 100 Proof 1 oz. lime juice

¾ oz. date syrup

1. Muddle the mint leaves in a shaker until leaves are broken

down and aromatic. Fill the shaker with ice and add rye, or-

ange juice, lime juice, and date syrup, and shake vigorously.

1 oz. lime juice 1

oz. Broken Clock Vinegar Works Lemon & Mint Shrub

1 mint sprig, for garnish

1. Fill a shaker with ice. Add Riverine, lime juice, simple syrup, orange juice, and shrub.

2. Shake gently and strain into a coupe glass. 3. Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint.

2. Fill a double Old Fashioned glass with clean ice and double

strain from the shaker into the glass. Garnish with a sprig of mint.

TIP: d alco ils nee c o k ta made c ll is a la t No Co o e, a e Bella Riverin lizes hol! Th MASS A uti h it w it that ir p s ee in -free ight s m booze u o ls y root, a is ic rr n r, o bota riande o hing s c e e fr a re gin (lik r). It ’s e ip n s and ju at pair sip th rus! ith cit w ll e w

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Apple Galette A Chez Panisse staple, this galette is

sure to impress year-round and can

be made with any sturdy fruit you can

find at the market, like pears, peaches, plums, or apricots.

M A K ES 1 1 0 - I N C H GA L E T T E 1 cup all-purpose flour ¼ tsp. salt 1

tsp. sugar

1½ sticks unsalted butter, chilled and cubed

3-4 Tbsp. ice water

2 Tbsp. pistachios or almonds, roughly ground

5 tart apples, like honeycrisp or Pink Lady, peeled and cut into 1 8 -inch thick slices

3 Tbsp. sugar

3 Tbsp. apricot jam

¾ cup cream, lightly whipped

1. To make the dough, combine flour,

salt, and sugar in a large bowl. Cut

half of the butter into the flour mix-

ture with a fork or your hands until it resembles cornmeal. Add the other half of the butter and work into the marble-size chunks.

2. Slowly add in the ice water while

mixing the dough with a fork until all of the flour is moistened and the dough is coming together.

3. Divide and gather the dough into a ball. Wrap in plastic and chill until

ready to use. (It can be made up to a

7. Fold dough border over apples, and

storing.) Allow dough to sit out at

8. Sprinkle sugar on top of apples

so it’s soft enough to roll.

9. Bake uncovered 45–60 minutes, until

day in advance, or frozen for longer

room temperature for 15–20 minutes

4. Roll dough into a 10-inch diameter

crimp to seal. and border.

pastry is nicely browned and apples

circle and chill while you prepare the

are fork-tender and lightly colored.

filling.

5. Preheat oven to 350°F. 6. Lay rolled-out pastry on a parch-

ment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle

Remove from oven and allow to cool

jam in a small pot or microwave

ground pistachios or almonds onto

and add 1 Tbsp. water to thin. Using

of apple in a circular pattern over

the apricot glaze. Serve warm or at

dough. Arrange overlapping slices the pastry, leaving a 1-inch border at the edges.

until ready to serve.

10. Just before serving, melt apricot

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

a pastry brush, paint the apples with room temperature with lightly whipped cream.

Even the smallest elements of a dish can be treated like rare gems.

dough for 1 minute or so, leaving

NOTHING WILL STICK BUT THE SMILES ON THEIR FACES.

Sunset Page Template.indd 1

4/14/22 1:05 PM

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

Sonoran Soul RISING STAR CHEF RENE ANDRADE AND HIS TEAM HARNESS THE POWER OF FIRE TO SERVE UP A MASTERCLASS IN SONORAN-STYLE GRILLING AT PHOENIX’S HOTTEST NEW RESTAURANT, BACANORA. Story by KRI STI N SCHARKE Y Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

There’s a special kind of magic that happens when Rene Andrade begins to sling 46-day, dry-aged ribeye over open flames on a handbuilt steel grill. The smell of mesquite and rendered fat fills the dining room at Bacanora, and so begins an artfully maneuvered dance with fire and smoke. The Phoenix chef relies on rolled pieces of cardboard to burn slowly, building up the wood like a tent and allowing the fire to take shape—a “spark of home,” Andrade says. All the while, he wears a chain from his grandmother, a reminder of the person who taught him how to show love through food—puro amor. Andrade’s reputation is building, too. Wild chiltepin peppers, grown on his family's ranch in Sonora, Mexico, have received much fanfare. Patrons flock to his bright pink dining room for a taste of his wood-fired food. Bacanora was named a James Beard finalist for the Best New Restaurant of 2022 (winners hadn’t been announced as of press time). The chef, though, doesn’t seem to let it go to his head. His staff remains a tight-knit group of friends who are more like family. While Adrian Galindo mixes drinks behind the bar with equal parts flair and banter, Roberto Centeno works the grill, throwing corn right onto the hot coals. It’s about control, Centeno says of the skilled craft of minding these types of temperatures. There’s a fine line between a piece of meat—or a handful of vegetables—getting burned versus beautifully charred. When we visit Bacanora, Andrade has two priorities: sharing his food, and making sure he gives credit where credit is due. We’re no sooner done with a feast of ribeye, smoked bluefin toro, and—the unexpected star of the show, frijoles de la olla—when we’re quickly whisked off to nearby Pizzeria Bianco, a legendary wood-fired Phoenix joint led by renowned chef Chris Bianco, to meet the rest of his team. Andrade first cooked with Bianco (a James Beard winner who is also nominated for Outstanding Restaurateur this year) at a food festival in Sonora—their bond forged while grilling nearly three dozen chickens—and has considered him a mentor ever since. Bacanora’s grill is made in part from the same type of brick found in Bianco’s

RIBEYE Serve Bacanora’s melt-in-your-mouth showstopper alongside its bone. S E RV E S 4

4–5 lb. bone-in ribeye, dry-aged 36–46 days

Salt, to taste

Salsa Verde (see recipe on opposite page)

Salsa Tatemada (see recipe on page 55)

15 flour tortillas 3 limes, halved

1. Remove ribeye from the refrigerator about 45 minutes before cooking, and season heavily on both sides with salt.

2. On a wood-fired or charcoal grill,

cook the steak over high, direct heat, about about 6 minutes per side.

3. Move the steak to an indirect-heat

zone and continue grilling, again 6

minutes per side. Remove to a cutting board and let rest about 15 minutes.

4. Remove the bone and slice length-

wise into about 10 ½-inch thick pieces. Serve on a large platter with salsas, tortillas, and limes.

pizza ovens. Organic grain is used in both Bianco's pizzas and the flour tortillas that are made for mopping up every last drop of beans at Bacanora. “You learn things and burn things,” Bianco says of his illustrious career, and relationship with the younger chef. “Not everybody needs to burn.” Culinary magic doesn’t happen by accident, and Andrade is tapping into a precise formula with gusto, and tireless dedication. (“We never have days off,” he only half-jokes.) The wisdom of the past keeps him grounded while he keeps his eyes on the horizon— ready to help bring the “new kids” of Phoenix’s burgeoning gastronomic scene into the fold. His dishes, of course, complete the equation. Perhaps Bianco says it best: Andrade excels at an art that is “impossible to fake”—marrying “technique and humility, provenance and place.”

Pro Tip: The Bacanora team likes to add melty, cheesy quesadillas. Simply throw your favorite cheese onto a flour tortilla, fold it up, then cook it on the grill, about 3 minutes each side.

Salsa Verde MAKES 2 QTS. 35 tomatillos, peeled ½ white onion, roughly chopped 4 green onions 6 serrano chiles ½ qt. lime juice 3 habanero chiles 3 bunches cilantro 4 small avocados 1. Put all ingredients except the cilantro and avocados in a large mixing bowl. Using a hand blender, mix until wellblended, about 10 minutes. 2. Roughly chop cilantro and cut avocado into cubes. Add avocados and cilantro to bowl. Using the hand blender, mix another 10 minutes.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Pro Tip: Chef Andrade prefers mesquite for his open-fire grill. If you can’t get pieces of wood, try mesquite charcoal.

P O LLO ASA D O Take one bite of Bacanora’s grilled

chicken, and you probably won’t believe it’s only seasoned with salt. But

that’s exactly how the team prepares

their poultry. Let’s just say, they let the grilling do the talking. S E RV E S 4 - 6

1 whole chicken, about 4–5 lbs. 2 Tbsp. sea salt

Golden-Brown Delicious

Potatoes (see recipe on opposite page)

Frijoles de la Olla (see recipe on opposite page)

12 flour tortillas

Salsa Verde (see recipe on previous page)

Salsa Tatemada (see recipe on next page)

Perfect Pairing We selected the ideal bottle to serve with this menu, and it’s available to members of our wine club. Sign up for quarterly deliveries of the best wines in the West at sunset.com/wineclub

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

1. Spatchcock the chicken by

chicken around because the

cutting out the backbone

fat will start rendering, which

with kitchen shears. Season

can affect the flames.) Re-

all over with salt, and let rest

move it from the grill and let it

at room temperature for 30

rest 6–7 minutes, then return

minutes while you heat up

it to the grill, skin side down,

the grill.

2. Over a wood or charcoal fire,

over indirect heat and let it

3. Serve whole chicken breasts,

minutes, then flip it and grill

with potatoes, frijoles de la

over direct heat for about 15 skin side down another 10.

(Make sure you move your

THE WINE:

cook until the skin is crispy.

grill the chicken skin side up

2019 Paydirt Going For Broke Red Wine, California

TASTING NOTES:

The glass uncovers a generous ruby core with aromas led by black cherry, mission plum, and lovely spice. The mouthfeel is juicy and balanced by excellent acidity.

thighs, wings, and drumsticks olla, salsas, and warm tortillas.

WHY IT WORKS:

Elegance and power with a lush profile make it the ultimate red blend for Bacanora’s wood-fired Sonoran dishes.

There’s a fine line between a burn and a beautiful char.

Salsa Tatemada MAKES 2 QTS. 6 whole beefsteak tomatoes 1½ onions 24 large green Anaheim chiles Salt, to taste

F R IJ O LE S D E L A O LL A These “beans in a pot” are packed full

of flavor thanks to charred habaneros, onion, and garlic. S E RV E S 4– 6

2 qts. dried pinto beans, soaked overnight and drained

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 white onion, diced

1 cup chopped garlic

4 habanero chiles, diced

2 Tbsp. dried Mexican oregano 2 ½ Tbsp. sea salt

1. In a large pot, bring ½ gallon water to a boil. Lower it to a simmer, then add the pinto beans and cook about 45

minutes to 1 hour. Drain water into a

bowl and set aside. Set beans aside.

2. In another large pot, add oil over

high heat, then add onion and garlic, stirring occasionally until almost burned, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the habanero and cook, about 4 minutes. Add oregano and cook for 1 minute.

4. Add the beans and bean water, and

cook about 10–15 minutes. The liquid

will begin to thicken. Lower heat and simmer until mixture reaches desired thickness. (Andrade likes it

“soupy.”) Season with salt and serve.

1. On a wood-fired or charcoal grill, cook tomatoes, onion, and chiles over direct heat until charred on all sides, about 10–12 minutes total. Set tomatoes and onion aside to cool. 2. Place chiles in a fire-safe bowl, cover with foil, and set it near indirect heat to steam, about 10 minutes. 3. Transfer chiles to a mixing bowl and let cool. Once they can be handled, remove the chile skin. 4. Thinly slice the chiles and julienne the onion, then combine in the bowl. Crush the tomatoes with your hands, then add them to the bowl, mix, and season with salt.

G O LD E N - B ROW N D E LI C I O U S P OTATO E S

1. Bring 4 qts. water and salt to a low

simmer in a large pot. Add potatoes

These crispy, coin-size potatoes reach perfection when they’re cooked until

generous amount of saltwater. Serve

them alongside poultry or seafood—a S E RV E S 4 - 6

2 cups sea salt

4 russet potatoes

20–25 minutes. Remove, and refrigerate them, uncovered, until cold.

golden brown. They benefit from a

versatile side dish for pulpo or pollo.

and simmer until cooked through,

2. Once potatoes are chilled, cut them crosswise into ¼-inch slices. Place a

skillet over medium heat, and when it’s hot, add ¼ cup olive oil. Add the

potato slices and cook until potatoes are crispy and “golden-brown deli-

cious,” as chef says, about 4 minutes per side. Remove and set aside.

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3. Lower the heat and add garlic to

1 cup crumbled queso fresco

4. Place potatoes on a plate, and pour

15 garlic cloves, shaved

cook, about 4–5 minutes.

garlic and remaining olive oil over them. Top with queso fresco.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

E LOTE Is there any better appetizer than

sweet, crunchy Mexican street corn? This version boasts two cremas. S E RV E S 4– 6

4 ears sweet corn, shucked 2 cups Mexican crema

½ cup Valentina Salsa Picante Juice of 4 limes

Sea salt, to taste

1 cup grated cotija

Cayenne pepper or smoked paprika (optional)

1. Warm up a large pot of salted water over low heat. Add corn and cook, about 15 minutes. Remove and let drain.

2. On a wood-fired or charcoal grill,

nestle corn directly into the coals

and grill on all sides until it reaches the level of char you desire. (Andrade likes it “burned, baby.”)

3. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.

4. Mix 1 cup crema, salsa, and the juice

of 2 limes in a small bowl, plus salt to

taste. In a second small bowl, mix remaining crema, lime juice, and salt to taste.

5. To serve, shave kernels off one side

of the corn and set aside. Place the cob kernel-less side down on a

plate. Sprinkle kernels over top, then

drizzle the first crema, then the second. Sprinkle with the grated cotija and sea salt.

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

JA M A I CA S M AS H M A K E S 1 C O C K TA I L 2 bunches mint 1½ oz. mezcal

¾ oz. hibiscus syrup

¾ oz. grapefruit juice ¾ oz. lemon juice

2 dashes Scrappy’s Black Lemon Bitters

HIBISCUS SYRUP

1 qt. dried jamaica leaves

4 qt. white granulated sugar

1. To make the hibiscus syrup: Boil 2

qt. water, dried jamaica leaves, and sugar in a large pot over high heat.

Lower to a simmer then stir until sugar is completely dissolved. Strain into a sealable container. Refrigerate.

2. To make the cocktail: Muddle one

mint spring in the bottom of a glass. Set aside. Combine all ingredients

except mint into a shaker tin. Add ice and shake until frost starts to form

on the outside, about 5-10 seconds.

Strain through a Hawthorne strainer into the glass. Add fresh ice and

muddled mint. Garnish with fresh mint.

CO N FU E G O You won’t look at your next nightcap

the same after these shots of bacanora, a Mexican agave spirit, for which the restaurant is named. Bartender

Adrian Galindo allows the grill to take center stage: Mesquite coals (plus

Mexican cane sugar and cinnamon) add flair to this presentation. S E RV E S 2

3 oz. bacanora shots 2 orange slices

1 small piece piloncillo

2 cinnamon sticks, plus 1 for garnish 3 cups mesquite coals

1. Pour 1.5 oz. bacanora into two shot glasses.

2. Using tongs, place hot mesquite

coals onto a ceramic serving plate.

Top with cinnamon sticks and grate

piloncillo over the top. (It will start to smoke.)

3. Serve with orange slices with grate cinnamon and piloncillo over top.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

SET UP A MOVABLE MIXOLOGY KIT THAT WILL TURN ANY CAMPSITE INTO A POP-UP AL FRESCO BAR. You don’t need more than a few ingredients to make delicious camp cocktails that are as flavorful as they are easy to tote around. So, we asked a trio of our favorite spirit makers for their favorite recipes. Then we headed to an Airstream at the new AutoCamp Joshua Tree to craft them in the great outdoors.

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

WOOD: TIM MOSSHOLDER/UNSPLASH

Story by KRI STI N SCHARKE Y • Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

ATTRACTION Nova Brewing Co.’s James Jin

and Emiko Tanabe are crafting a true California sake at their

outpost and brewery in Covina.

While the beverage is “normally enjoyed straight, like a fine

wine,” the team created a special cocktail recipe with watermelon cubes to “complement

the delicate flavor,” says Shino-

bu Adams, director of sales and marketing (pictured above). M A K ES 1 C O C K TA I L

2 oz. watermelon, cut into 5–6 1-inch cubes

2 oz. Nova Brewing Co. Gravity sake

2 mint leaves, torn into small pieces, and one sprig for garnish

1. Add watermelon cubes to a rocks glass, then pour the sake over them.

2. Add the torn mint leaves and stir 2-3 times.

3. Add crushed ice and stir 2-3 times again.

4. Garnish with a sprig of mint.

GET THE GEAR

ADAMS: @WTFUKUSUMI

Sip some sake while you craft this cocktail with Snow Peak’s titanium Bartender Set, which comes with a sake bottle and cups, plus a measuring spoon and stacking mug. $331; SNOWPEAK.COM

NEW OLD OAXACAN Dana Rodriguez (above) is not only a chef; she’s also behind

Doña Loca mezcals and tequilas. For her new Denver restaurant

Cantina Loca, beverage manager Nicole Rezner created this

cocktail with simple syrup and bitters, but here added a few more ingredients for a pre-

batched version. “Our Espadìn mezcal has a smooth, rich

mouthfeel,” Rodriguez says,

“which makes it excellent to use

in unfussy cocktails like this one.” M A K ES A B O U T 1 2 C O C K TA I L S 1 bottle Doña Loca Espadín Mezcal

Peels of 4 lemons

1 whole piece piloncillo

(Mexican brown cane sugar)

4 cinnamon sticks

1 oz. Angostura bitters

1. The night before leaving for a camping trip, pour the bottle of Espadín into a container

and add lemon peels, piloncillo, cinnamon sticks, and

bitters. Seal, and let sit over-

night. The sugar should completely dissolve.

2. The next morning, strain the mezcal into a large bowl or pitcher, and pour back into

the bottle or another vessel.

Then you have a ready-made batch to share around a fire!

GET THE GEAR

RODRIGUEZ: JONI SCHRANTZ

Portion out your batched cocktail for easy storage on a hike thanks to VSSL’s Flask, a compact container also equipped with a flashlight, compass, and built-in shot glasses. $115; VSSLGEAR.COM

DESERT BLOOM Ryan Lawrence, Clare Byrne, and Thomas Giddings craft

Suncliffe gin as an ode to Arizona. They also sell pre-made

cocktail kits that are perfect for an overnight camping trip.

“Compared to a lot of gins on the market today, Suncliffe

does not have a strong citrusy note,” says Lawrence (above).

“We did this on purpose for two reasons, which are to really

highlight the wild harvested ingredients, and because fresh citrus is always available to add as a juice or garnish.” M A K ES 1 C O C K TA I L 2 oz. Suncliffe gin

1 oz. Iconic Grapefruit Fleur de Sel

½ oz. Iconic Prickly Pear Sour Seltzer (optional)

Ruby-red grapefruit wedge, salted

1. Add ice to an 8 oz. rocks

glass, or a Collins glass if you plan to use seltzer.

2. Pour gin over ice. Add Fleur de Sel and Prickly Pear Sour, and stir.

3. If using seltzer, top off the

cocktail with a small pour.

4. Garnish with a dehydrated

ruby red grapefruit wedge.

GET THE GEAR

LAWRENCE: SUNCLIFFE

Take your cocktail to go in High Camp’s Firelight 750 Flask; two tumblers screw on the top and bottom of the vacuum-insulated cylinder. $125; HIGHCAMPFLASKS.COM

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

WT: WT: PF: PF: ZO: ZO:

XXX XXX XX XX XX XX

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T R AV E L

ESCAPES

The New Western Explorer 16 ways to hit the road this summer with sustainability, nature, and culture in mind. Story by SU N S ET STAFF Photograph by TH O MAS J. STO RY

Hunker down with Snow Peak’s Take! Renewed Bamboo Chairs, a cooler from The Get Out, and Pablo’s Uma Mini lantern. OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

The New

WESTERN EXPLORER

Take an

It’s no surprise that people who love the outdoors want to keep these landscapes beautiful for years to come. One in five campers own an electric vehicle, according to Kampgrounds of America. So, we put together some route ideas with plenty of charging stations along the way.

EPIC ELECTR IC ROA D TR I P

Joshua Tree National Park

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

THOMAS J. STORY

EXPLORE MORE We hit the road with our friends at electric adventure vehicle company Rivian, who sponsored behind-the-scenes videos featuring the people, places, and best practices that embody what it means to live an epic outdoor life in the West. Check it out at sunset.com!

2. CHARGE UP Matt Teske, founder of Oregon-based charging station app Chargeway, shares a few tips for road trips.

3. GET NATUR AL IN OR EGON ROUTE 1

Start: Portland End: Crater Lake National Park Distance: 350-ish miles

The natural beauty of Central Oregon can satisfy the palate of any adventurer. At the epicenter of this environmental smorgasbord is Bend, a haven for outdoors enthusiasts and food lovers alike.

PLAN AHEAD.

Temperatures and driving speeds can affect your battery life. And not every electric vehicle is compatible with every charging station. Download an app like Chargeway to plug in your destinations (plus all these variables) to ensure you can make it from point A to point B.

FIND FAST CHARGERS.

You’ll save time on the road if you map out a route where you can fuel up quickly, “so you don’t even need to worry about stopping at an overnight stop to fill up,” Teske says. If you do plan to hunker down for the evening, make sure there’s at least a standard charging station onsite.

CHECK THE NETWORK.

Many charging stations are managed by open networks, which means you’re more likely to have access to customer support if a problem arises. If you plan to use a non-network charger, call the location ahead to confirm it’s available and turned on.

BRING YOUR MOBILE CONNECTOR.

“Anytime I go on a road trip,” Teske says, “I always take my mobile connector.” In the event of an emergency, you can connect it to a power source and instantly access fuel. Learn more about the Chargeway app at chargeway.net

TAMOLITCH FALLS Amid the ocean of Douglas firs in Willamette National Forest is a geological oasis many refer to simply as “The Blue Pool.” Approximately 1,600 years ago, a lava flow oozing from Oregon’s Belknap Crater smothered a nearly 3-mile stretch of the nearby McKenzie River, effectively stifling the river’s flow except for porous lava that, to this day, filters the river in a process that transforms its water into a stunning shade of turquoise and a constantly frigid 37°F temperature. You won’t be swimming for long if you do decide to take a dip. Still, the beauty is well worth the 4-mile hike.

this year-round playground. If you prefer a more relaxed pace, plop an inner tube down in the calm waters of the Crooked River and let soothing sounds usher all your worries into oblivion.

DESCHUTES RIVER A visit to Bend isn’t complete without enjoying the soft roll of the river by inner tube, paddle board, or kayak. Mosey through the charming Old Mill District all the way to the picturesque

Drake Park before embarking on the area’s renowned “Bend Ale Trail.” CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK With a depth of 1,949 feet, Crater Lake is the deepest of its kind in the U.S.

Thanks to a steady diet of snow and rain, it’s also one of the clearest. Enjoy the 33-mile Rim Drive replete with 30 scenic overlooks. Stay after dark and you might even catch the Milky Way.

CAMPFIRE HOTEL There’s lots of room to store your gear in these Bend digs. You can rent a tube to float down the Deschutes River at the front desk. Plus, there are fast chargers at the Walmart in town. SMITH ROCK STATE PARK Twenty-six miles east of Bend is a 650-acre parcel of towering rock formations. Climbing, hiking, horseback riding, wildlife viewing, and mountain biking are abundant in

Tamolitch Falls

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Big Sur, California

The New

WESTERN EXPLORER

ROUTE 2

Start: Santa Barbara End: Big Sur Distance: 230-ish miles

Highway 1 is arguably one of the West’s most scenic drives. All the while, you’ll be cruising along the Central Coast’s Whale Trail; if you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of a majestic creature.

SANTA BARBARA Because, every good day starts with coffee, right? Grab a cup to go from Dune Coffee Roasters. PISMO STATE BEACH MONARCH BUTTERFLY GROVE Thousands of Western monarch butterflies make

their way to this coastal sanctuary, best visited from November to February. It’s one of their largest overwintering sites, according to the California Department of Parks and Recreation. Seeing a “burst” of butterflies in the morning light is an

ethereal experience. VESPERA RESORT ON PISMO BEACH Cozy up to one of the firepits at this pet-friendly Pismo Beach hotel, where you can valet a Tesla to be charged overnight. Enjoy seaside chowder

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

MONTAÑA DE ORO STATE PARK Mountain biking, surfing, hiking, and more can be found in this spectacular 8,000acre state park. Take in the views of Morro Bay, or explore the tidepools. MADONNA INN Even if you’re not staying in one of the iconic themed rooms (and by that, we mean the allpink “Love Nest” and lime green “Bridal Falls”), grab a drink at the lounge, where you’ll find floral carpets and neon-colored

armchairs. There are onsite chargers if you want to stay overnight. JULIA PFEIFFER BURNS STATE PARK You’ve probably seen photos of iconic McWay Falls; now hike down to experience the real deal. It’s a quartermile stroll to this 60-foot cascade into the ocean. Enjoy the redwoods and madrones along the way. VENTANA BIG SUR This hilltop resort offers campsites, glamping tents, and luxury suites. Bring an inflatable paddleboard (like the Bote Breeze Aero on the cover of this issue) for endless adventure. Plus, there are Tesla chargers in the parking lot.

6. LOAD UP Don’t forget to pack these products to keep your road trip running smoothly.

4. HUG THE COAST IN CALIFOR NIA

or grilled halibut at the onsite restaurant, Somerset Grill. It’s the perfect homebase to hike in the nearby Pismo Preserve.

5. GLA MP IN UTAH ROUTE 3

Start: Big Water End: Moab Distance: 350-ish miles

Few destinations are better equipped to accommodate adventure than a state boasting five national parks, 11 national sites, 43 state parks, and 22.8 million acres of Bureau of Land Management lands.

UNDER CANVAS LAKE POWELLGRAND STAIRCASE Nestled atop a canyon rim, this glamping site offers accessibility to sightseeing, as well as an arsenal of luxurious amenities—plush beds, wood-burning stoves, en suite bathrooms, to name a few—that can accommodate families of up to six. Plus, there are Rivian open-network chargers onsite. PEEK-A-BOO SLOT Charge up before heading to this superb destination—best-reached by four-wheeler— that offers easy hiking and canyoneering far removed from the

THE GET OUT COOLER BAG

Backpack straps allow this cooler to be easily transferred from car to campsite. $250; thegetout.shop

dense crowds attracted by the region’s betterknown spots. The hike through the slot’s narrows is a leisurely half-mile stroll through a red, orange, and pink canyon maze that radiates in the afternoon sun. If you’re in the mood for a longer on-foot expedition, try the nearby, highlyrated Buckskin Gulch on the Arizona border. CORAL PINK SAND DUNES STATE PARK After another night inside your canvas tent, head to this state park for hiking, ATV riding, and wildlife viewing in a setting that began forming 15,000 years ago through

Peek-a-boo Slot

the slow erosion of pink Navajo sandstone. Enjoy an evening watching the dunes catch fire in the glow of a southwestern sunset. Do some research ahead of time to see if you can fuel up at the

fast charger in Salina on the drive out. UNDER CANVAS MOAB Like its aforementioned sister property, Under Canvas Moab also has open-network

FJÄLLRÄVEN VARDAG LITE FLEECE

Meet your new favorite road trip pullover: It’s super soft and layerable and includes lifetime repairs. $120; fjällräven.com

chargers and is beautifully positioned among some of Canyon Country’s most inspiring natural wonders. Amenities are likewise plentiful, and tents can accommodate anything from a

romantic getaway to family outings. CANYONLANDS AND ARCHES NATIONAL PARKS With just a halfhour drive between them, these parks should be on your bucket list. Enjoy

endless exploration of more than 2,000 natural arches, precariously-balanced boulders, red rock mazes, and canyon-carving waterways (headlined by the Colorado River).

MYSTERY RANCH MISSION ROVER

Haul your necessities in style thanks to a footwear compartment, dirty laundry pocket, and more. $199; mysteryranch.com

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

The New

WESTERN EXPLORER

7. DIVE INTO IDAHO ROUTE 4

Start: Boise End: Craters of the Moon Distance: 360-ish miles

Idaho is too often left off traveler to-do lists, so we’re endeavoring to remedy that with a route capped off at Craters of the Moon. This trip plunges you into a world of alpine lakes, mountain vistas, volcanic oceans, and the final resting place of a renowned author.

SUN VALLEY LODGE It was at the Sun Valley Lodge, where, in 1939, American novelist Ernest Hemingway put the finishing touches on For Whom the Bell Tolls. Visitors today can book a suite dedicated to the iconic

author, who’s buried alongside family in the Ketchum Cemetery. Before you head out on alpine adventures farther north, you’ll want to stop and recharge in the nearby town of Hailey.

STANLEY, PETTIT, OR RED FISH LAKES Three of the most popular alpine lakes in the jagged Sawtooth Mountain range appear straight out of a postcard. Drive right up to sparkling bodies of water with

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

dramatic backdrops that beckon families and solo travelers alike. Breathtaking night skies will make evident the region’s designation as the first in the United States to be named a Dark Sky Reserve by the International Dark-Sky Association. CRATERS OF THE MOON Like a sight out of J.R.R. Tolkien’s Mordor, this 600-square-mile ocean of lava, cinder cones, and sagebrush comprises one of the largest lava fields in the Lower 48. Exploring the numerous phenomena is made easy thanks to a 7-mile, drivable loop that

meanders through mind-bending cone, spatter, and hoodoo formations, some of which solidified in midflight as far back as 15,000 years ago. (Make sure you charge up before you enter the park, somewhere off Highway 75.) To no

surprise, the park is an International Dark Sky location.

sites. Free Wi-Fi and a heated pool will help you unwind.

CRATERS OF THE MOON/ARCO KOA JOURNEY Just 19 miles from Craters of the Moon is this spacious, shaded KOA campground that offers tent and cabin

IDAHO FALLS Ensure you have enough electric fuel to make it all the way to Idaho Falls, where fast chargers are available, not to mention plenty of hotels to rest your weary head.

Red Fish Lake

8. GET a GR I P

This season’s best hiking shoes offer more than comfort; they’re stylish, too.

1. Hoka’s Trail

Code GTX utilizes a new kind of

foam to take the edge off your

hikes, while still staying light-

weight for steady climbing. $170; HOKA.COM

2. Deckers x Lab offers a KO-Z Chukka SDE

Wedge 2 in wa-

terproof suede,

so you don’t have to worry about traversing

streams. $190; DECKERSXLAB.COM

3. Erem’s Xero-

cole hiking boot

is made for treks

in desert land-

scapes, thanks to breathable canvas and leather, plus protective tread. $170;

EREMLIFE.COM

4. Comfort meets traction in Danner’s Mountain

Overlook sneak-

ers that are just

as stylish as they are supportive. $170; DANNER.COM

5. Versatile and lightweight, La

Sportiva’s Ultra

Raptor II Mid GTX sports a water-

Kāma’s portable platforms fold up into the shape of honeycomb, creating a versatile space for yoga or just pulling on your boots. $220; KAMASURFACE.CO

proof lining and THOMAS J. STORY

grippy tread, plus they’re comfortable enough to take you from

trail to table. $175; SPORTIVA.COM

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

9. R E ACH for the STA R S

The New

WESTERN EXPLORER

There’s never been a better time to stargaze in the West, as more cities and states make major moves to protect their dark skies. Grab your camera and throw the ultimate astral affair with these tips. Just don’t wait too much longer to start planning: Autumn is the best time to view the Milky Way here!

BY THE NUMBERS Here’s a low-down on the best starry spots in the West.

International Dark Sky Parks, including state or national parks

certified Dark Sky Places in Utah, the highest concentration in the United States

International Dark Sky Reserves, put together by multiple land managers, including a new one in Texas and one in Central Idaho

To learn more, visit the International Dark-Sky Association at darksky.org 70

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

Joshua Tree National Park

SEEING STARS

Celestron’s StarSense Explorer DX 130AZ connects with your smartphone, so you can enjoy an up close and guided experience of the constellations. $480; celestron.com

MAIN IMAGE: THOMAS J. STORY

International Dark Sky Places across 13 Western states

10. THROW A STELLAR PARTY 1. RAISE A GLASS

You can fit a fifth of whiskey or a bottle of wine in High Camp’s Firelight 750 ml. Flask. Of course, you could also

stash some of our delicious and easyto-make camp cocktails (page 58). $125; HIGHCAMPFLASKS.COM

2. LIGHT THE WAY

If you’d rather not keep track of a lan-

tern, BioLite’s HeadLamp 330 might be more your style. It has a rechargeable

battery to help you easily find your

way in the dark. $60; BIOLITEENERGY.COM

3. SHINE ON

Having a BioLite AlpenGlow lantern

handy can make setup and cleanup a breeze. It comes in 250 or 500 lumens, and boasts several different light

modes. $60 OR $80; BIOLITEENERGY.COM

4. MORE THAN A MEMORY

You may want to document your observations in a notebook or analog

journal like this one from Moon Lists, a

workbook with prompts and lists to ar-

chive your reflections. $28; MOONLISTS.COM

5. SWEET TREAT

Head out before sunset to roast some marshmallows over this Ultimate

S’mores Kit from Swoon Living by Patrick Fitzpatrick. It comes with a fuel

pod and skewers so you can enjoy the dessert just about anywhere, then

watch the stars take over the sky. $165; SWOONLIVING.COM

6. CLASSIC STEEL

Portland-based Leatherman’s Bond has 14 tools and the same vintage

vibes as the pioneering multi-tool that

Provisions’ Zoom Tube 8x32 Monocular

ameter defense zone so you

one piece of gear to mount your tripod

helpful to survey your surroundings.

$39.99; THERMACELL.COM

started it all. If you’re going to pack

and spotting scope, slice apples, and THOMAS J. STORY

pop a beer, this is the one. $59.95; LEATHERMAN.COM

7. BIRD’S EYE VIEW

Want to look out for wildlife while you

wait for the stars? Be sure to pack Nocs

Telescope. It’s as adorable as it is

can stargaze bite-free.

$175; NOCSPROVISIONS.COM

8. BUG OFF

Don’t let mosquitoes crash your astral party. Thermacell’s compact re-

chargeable Mosquito Repeller quietly and odorlessly creates a 20-foot di-

9. COZY COMFORT

Don’t get caught in the cold without a blanket. Thunder Voice Hat Co.’s

Coast Recycled Camp Blanket is re-

Check out even more of our favorite blankets on page 76

versible and made from 100% natural materials. $97; THUNDERVOICEHATCO.COM

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

The New

WESTERN EXPLORER

11. COOK Without FI R E

With unprecedented wildfires prompting widespread burn bans across the West, cooking in the great outdoors can feel more daunting than ever. The good news? You can totally put together a delicious meal thanks to high-tech gear. Try these recipes from two chefs whose dishes are low on flames but high on flavor.

Udon Nabemono

2 medium carrots, sliced on bias

You know what’s better than soup to

1 lb. firm tofu, pressed and cut into

the tent? Hot pot, particularly packed

1 scallion, chopped

“When I go camping, I like to spend my time exploring my surroundings and not washing dishes.” –CHEF GA B R I E L W O O

with well-spiced noodles. This “nabe”

Furikake for garnish

el Woo, who’s at the helm of Bar Cecil

1. Add chicken broth to a medium

is a go-to for Palm Springs chef Gabrirestaurant. (Tip: It’s the hottest ticket in town, so reserve a table.) Before you

head out on a camping trip, Woo rec-

stockpot and bring to a low simmer on medium heat.

2. Add tamari, sake, dashi powder, and

ommends preparing these vegetables

mirin, and stir to incorporate. Let the

heat up the broth—an induction burner

seasoning to your liking.

at home. Then all you have to do is

broth simmer 5–10 minutes. Adjust

will do the trick—to build your bowl. S E RV E S 4

3. Blanch the spinach and steep 1 min-

4½ cups chicken broth 1 cup tamari ¾ cup sake

1 tsp. dashi powder ¾ cup mirin

2 bunches Bloomsdale spinach

4 oz. shimeji mushrooms, trimmed

½ Napa cabbage, roughly chopped 1 bunch broccolini, trimmed

¼-inch cubes

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

6. Add broccolini to broth and cook 2–3 minutes until vibrant green. Remove, shock in an ice bath, and set aside.

7. Add carrots to broth, cook 2–4 minutes, remove, then allow to cool on a plate.

8. Taste broth and readjust seasoning. 9. Pack broth, veggies, noodles, and tofu in separate containers. Seal for easy transport to a camping trip.

10. When you’re ready to eat, heat up

broth in a pot on an induction burner. Add noodles, veggies, and tofu. To

serve, ladle into bowls and top with

scallions and furikake to taste. Enjoy!

ute. Remove and shock in an ice

bath. Then remove and squeeze out as much excess liquid as possible

from the spinach. Roughly chop and set aside.

4. Add mushrooms to broth and cook

5–10 minutes. Remove to a plate and allow to cool completely.

5. Add cabbage to broth and cook 5

minutes. Remove to a plate and set aside to cool completely.

12. KIT YOUR KITCHEN Whip up a worthy spread with the right gear, no flames required.

THOMAS J. STORY

warm you up on a cool night outside

1 lb. udon

Sea Bass Ceviche Ceviche in the wild, miles from modern refrigeration? Yes, it makes sense—that is, when you take your cues from chef

Wes Avila, who makes a point of making ceviche a regular

day one dish whenever he camps. The trick is to think—and pack—like a chef. The day before you hit the road, dice the fish, make the ceviche cooking liquid and store it in a jar,

and prep the vegetables and pack them in resealable plastic bags. Chill it all down overnight in the refrigerator and transport everything in a heavy-duty (read: Yeti) cooler

loaded with ice. The cooler will serve as your backwoods ceviche chilling station. SE RVES 6

2 lbs. striped sea bass or halibut filets, cut into

1. Combine fish, lime juice,

orange juice, oil, and ser-

¾-inch cubes

rano chile in non-reactive

6 limes, juiced

glass or ceramic bowl.

½ orange, juiced

Cover with plastic wrap

1 Tbsp. olive oil

1 serrano chile, de-seeded and minced

2 medium mangoes, cut into

and refrigerate for 90 minutes.

2. Mix in mangoes and green

onions, cover, and refriger-

¼-inch cubes

ate for 10 minutes more.

5 green onions, sliced very

Gently fold in diced toma-

thin

toes and ½ cup of the ci-

3 vine ripened tomatoes,

lantro. Season with salt

seeded and diced

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: THOMAS J. STORY (2)

We tested the Rivian R1T’s Camp Kitchen, the latest in high-tech mobile cooking with a two-burner induction cooktop that slides out of the electric truck’s Gear Tunnel. Drawers are filled with 30 pieces of Snow Peak culinary tools and serveware.

and pepper and gently

½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro, divided

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

fold again. Garnish with

to taste

12 tostada shells

BALMUDA KETTLE

Heat up three decentsized cups of coffee with this sleek electric kettle. $149; us.balmuda.com

VERMICULAR FRYING PAN

This deep cast-iron can be used on induction cooktops, no problem. $195; huckberry.com

remaining cilantro.

3. Divide ceviche evenly on tostada shells and serve immediately.

NEW WEST KNIFE WORKS SANTOKU

A Japanese-style blade for all types of cutting. $429; newwestknifeworks.com

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

The New

WESTERN EXPLORER

Camp-Ready Chilaquiles Bacon and eggs make a fine campsite breakfast, but chilaquiles are an even easier upgrade with major flavor. This

version comes from avid camper and

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

1. In a large cast-iron pan over medi-

3 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and

um-high heat, add the oil and chiles.

seeded

Toast chiles, turning occasionally,

2 California chiles (aka dried

until they are aromatic, about 5 min-

Anahaeim chiles), stemmed and

utes. Add onion, tomatoes, garlic,

seeded

cumin, allspice, and salt, and cook

chef Wes Avila, the mastermind who

1 pasilla chile, stemmed and seeded

and now presides over Angry Egret Di-

8 roma tomatoes, cut in half crosswise

made his name with Guerrilla Tacos

nette in downtown Los Angeles’ Chinatown and Yucatan-inspired Ka’teen in Hollywood. All you need to do is cook up and cool down the chile-spiked

chilaquile sauce at home. Pack in the

sauce, eggs, and a bag of chips. Crank up your burner and in five minutes you’ve got breakfast. SE RVES 4

until the onion is soft and the toma-

1 white onion, diced 4 cloves garlic

1 Tbsp. ground cumin

2. In a large cast-iron pan, add the

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

sauce and cook over medium-high

¼ cup apple-cider vinegar

heat until warm, then gently fold

1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese 1 avocado, sliced into thin crescents 1 Tbsp. sesame seeds

½ red onion, thinly sliced

1 bunch cilantro, chopped

and blend on high. Add apple-cider necessary.

1 Tbsp. salt

4 eggs, fried

minutes more. Transfer to a blender vinegar and adjust seasoning if

¼ tsp. ground allspice

6 cups tortilla chips

toes have broken down, about 5

chips into sauce and cook until chips have absorbed the sauce slightly

“There’s something about cooking with your feet on the earth that makes it feel natural.”

but aren’t falling apart, about 2 minutes. Top with cheese and let warm

until the cheese slightly melts. Sea-

–CHEF W E S AV I L A

son again liberally with black pepper.

3. Transfer cooked chilaquiles to a

serving platter, top with fried eggs, and cilantro, and serve.

13. Pair It Perfectly This bottle is available to members of our wine club. Sign up for quarterly deliveries of the best wines in the West at sunset.com/wineclub

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

THE WINE:

2020 Angeline Pinot Noir Reserve Mendocino County

TASTING NOTES:

While the nose is centered on plush berries, plums, and bing cherries, wild violets and stone fruit blossoms surround the periphery, as do tiny hints of cinnamon and anise.

WHY IT WORKS:

This expression of Mendocino Pinot is high on pleasure with a low monetary impact, making it an excellent choice for these no-fire camp cooking dishes.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: THOMAS J. STORY (2)

avocado, sesame seeds, red onion,

14.

Be a

Because you’re going to need a caffeine boost to start a full day of hiking, biking, or however you’re exploring the outdoors.

BACK WOODS BA R ISTA Grab Camelbak’s MultiBev 22 oz. Bottle and Horizon 12 oz. Camp Mug, made with insulated stainless steel for easy transport. $50 AND $25; CAMELBAK.COM

Let’s be honest: If you’re making and enjoying our camp cocktails (page 58) during a long night by

lantern light, you’re going to need a serious cup of coffee in the morning. So, we challenged Sunset assistant editor Magdalena O’Neal, who spent

three years working as a barista across California (and “yells at people about the power of a proper pour-over,” as she says), to create a caffeinated beverage easily made at any campground.

The equipment? Snow Peak’s Field Barista Set

plus a Camelbak bottle and camp mug.

The result? A frothy, creamy, iced coffee that

you’ll be craving long after you leave.

Campuccino

Once water is hot, wet the filter

MAKES 1 DRINK

of the water that drips through.

2 oz. coffee beans

moistened filter and slowly pour

with ¼ cup of water and dispose Add ground coffee to the

¼ cup heavy cream (or coconut cream)

1. Grind: Place coffee beans into a grinder and turn handle to grind.

4. Shake: Fill a bottle with ice and

pour coffee over ice. Add cream and brown sugar to the bottle

and screw on the lid. Shake for 1 minute or until the bottle feels cold to the touch.

Snow Peak’s kettle.

3. Pour: While the water is heating, set up a filter in a coffee drip.

THOMAS J. STORY

sure to dampen all grounds. Let drip for a minute or two.

1 tsp. brown sugar

2. Heat: Heat 1 cup of water in

San Diego-based Canteen Coffee Roasters’ ethicallysourced beans brew up balanced and sweet in the wild. $18.95; CANTEENCOFFEEROASTERS.COM

remaining water over it, making

5. Serve: Pour the contents of the bottle into a mug and enjoy!

Snow Peak’s Field Barista Set comes with a grinder, kettle, and collapsible coffee drip. $260; SNOWPEAK.COM

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

The New

WESTERN EXPLORER

1. Founded by

Navajo artist Lehi 1

ThunderVoice Eagle, Thunder

Voice Hat Co.

creates a Coast Recycled Camp Blanket that’s

beautiful and 2

versatile. $97; THUNDERVOICEHATCO.COM

2. For every blan-

ket designed by

seventh-generation Navajo

1W5.R A P

weaver Naiomi Glasses, Sackcloth & Ashes

donates one to a

homeless shelter. Plus, all proceeds go to Chizh for

Cheii, which provides firewood,

medical aid, and home repairs to Navajo Nation’s

at-risk elders. $140; SACKCLOTHANDASH-

We’re keeping warm with beautiful blankets by Indigenous designers. Here’s how to support their work—and be a more conscious consumer.

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

3. Cherokee artist and silversmith

Kassie Kussman designed this

puffy, packable Rumpl blanket.

It’s water repel-

lent and feels as soft as any

sleeping bag. $129; RUMPL.COM

THOMAS J. STORY

YOU R SELF in A RT

ES.COM

16. MEET THE MAKERS These three artists are collaborating with major companies to emphasize authenticity over appropriation.

K A S SI E K US SM A N F O R C H E R O K E E S I LV E RS M I T H Kassie Kussman, artistic ex-

LEHI T H U N DE RVOICE E AGL E CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: JORDAN VERDIN; COURTESY OF RUMPL; ERICA ELAN

E V E R Y M E T I C U L O U S D E TA I L

of a blanket from ThunderVoice Hat Co. is intentional, from the design to the use of upcycled materials. “Fast fashion is cheap. We knew [detailed manufacturing] would be harder, but I couldn’t find any other way to justify the process,” founder Lehi ThunderVoice Eagle says of efforts to recalibrate an industry in which non-Indigenous manufacturers have long profited off of cheap re-creations of Native American designs. It is a practice consistent with a heritage—he traces his back to Navajo Nation—that emphasizes sacredness even in the minutiae. “Everything is intentional, and when you remove that, it removes the purpose of why we kept those symbols through assimilation. We hold onto these pieces, because the symbolism is us.”

pression was not always rooted in her Native American heritage. Generations of forced assimilation and colonization ultimately left her family devoid of traditions unique to Cherokee Nation. Righting that historic injustice became a priority when Kussman gave birth to her daughter. “I wanted her to have family heirlooms she could cherish and pass on to her children and many more generations to come,” she says. Between Missouri and stints in New Mexico, Kussman discovered a niche fueled by alluring silversmith work and graphic design. Before long, talent scouts from blanket company Rumpl came calling about a collaboration. In the process of delving deeper into the Native art scene, Kussman’s desire to tap into inspiration unique to her culture took on greater meaning. There was renewed admiration for the work Indigenous artists like her produce—pieces steeped in history and appreciation for everything the Earth and this life affords. “It’s ultimately up to customers to hold [companies] accountable,” Kussman says, “and ask where and how things are made.”

NA IOM I GL A S SE S N A IO M I G L A S S E S DI D N ’ T pick

up a weaving comb until she was 16, but the practice—intricately interconnected to Diné culture—is one she took to immediately. “Weaving will make a life for you,” the avid skateboarder remembers her grandmother, Nellie, saying from their home on Navajo Nation. By the time Glasses was 18, she was creating intricately designed wedge rugs replete with zig-zag patterns and scalloped edges—a weaving style that, after nearly being phased out by trading posts and imports at the turn of the 20th century, has resurfaced to reveal the ingenuity of those who came before. “Seeing certain styles revived helps me get a better understanding of who the weavers were before me,” says Glasses, now 26. Glasses recently partnered with Sackcloth & Ashes on blankets and opted to donate 100% of profits to a Diné-run grassroots organization. “There is inspiration in every detail,” Glasses says of her work. “We just need to keep learning and continue supporting Indigenous art.”

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

High WILDLANDS

TAKE YOUR CAMPING ADVENTURES TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH A WEEKEND OF BIKEPACKING. IT’S LIKE BACKPACKING— BUT ON TWO WHEELS. Story by J. D. S I M KI N S Photograph by JOS H WE I N B E RG SUNSET OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 PAGE 79

For years, hair-raising bike routes plunged Yazzie into an ancient world of bluffs and mesas dotted by cottonwoods, pinyon, cedar, and juniper—landscapes intricately tied to the creation stories his grandmother once told him when he was a young boy on Navajo Nation. Pondering these sights and legends years later under star-lit canopies ignited in Yazzie a desire to share such experiences. The avid mountain biker first approached his partner and eventual co-owner, Nadine Johnson, with whom he’d become close after being introduced by a mutual friend, in 2013. Johnson, who now works as a coder at a local hospital, “hesitated to take more extended trips at first because she didn’t want to jeopardize” her college coursework, Yazzie says.

JON YAZZIE

on Yazzie of Navajo Nation is out to shake up the tourism industry. The co-founder of Dzil Ta’ah Adventures is ushering in a new era of Indigenous-led exploration—on two wheels—that emphasizes cultural revitalization he hopes will improve the lives of people he calls his own. And on a reservation with more square mileage than Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New Hampshire combined, the space for renewal is immense. Yazzie, a United States Navy veteran and school administrator based in Kayenta, Arizona, first tested bikepacking in 2014. The blossoming backcountry camping method, executed via bike saddle versus on foot, has been enjoyed all over the world. But for Yazzie, adventuring in the Navajo backcountry is a category unto its own.

WILDLANDS

Bikepacking 101 HOW TO GET STARTED WITH THIS POPULAR CAMPING METHOD.

• WHAT: A two-wheeled camping excursion that, unlike car-bound trips, allows its participants to engage all five senses from point A to point B.

• HOW: If you can ride a bike, you

can bikepack. Whatever the distance, the goal is environmental immersion and fun. All you need is a bike, protective gear, food and water, a sleeping system, and a tent (if you want shelter).

• WHERE: Any land and trails

operated by the Bureau of Land Management are great places to start. And with 245 million BLM-run acres across the country, your options are vast. Dispersed camping on BLM land—i.e., setting up camp away from developed facilities and grounds—is a wonderful way to get away from crowded campsites.

• WHO: Like trails meant for hik-

ers, mountain bike trails cover a wide range of difficulty and skill level. Be sure to research ahead of time, whether you’re going out solo or taking the family along for the ride.

• WHY: Camping is a wonderful

means of outdoor immersion, but getting to our campsites is often an adventure we forgo. As Yazzie says about bikepacking through Navajo Nation: “It allows us to slow down, share stories, feel the sand, smell the sage, and explore minor details you might otherwise miss.”

Get The Gear Yazzie always carries a military-spec MSR

Guardian on longer

trips, as clean water is critical. “The Guardian

can filter almost 3 liters of filthy water in only a

minute.” $390; MSRGEAR.COM

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

WILDLANDS

plan on paper. Bringing the initiative to life, though, would soon require unforeseen resilience. In 2016, not long after Johnson built the business model, Yazzie suffered a significant mountain biking injury. The incident snowballed into a seemingly interminable series of physical setbacks that saw him endure a concussion, broken ankle, the development of migraines and blood clots, and the loss of vision in one eye. Recovery dragged along, but by 2019, Yazzie was riding again— and Dzil Ta’ah, which means “near the mountain,” was fresh in his mind. He began exploring areas he’d never seen, tackling new trails, and creating new routes in the process. By the beginning of 2020, Yazzie and Johnson were ready to launch. Permits and insurance were in order. They’d even booked a handful of tours. But the pandemic had other plans. Considered a non-essential business by Navajo Nation, the duo put plans on the back burner once again. Like many enduring the unpredictability of COVID-19, Yazzie’s plans began to evolve. Taking rides just to clear his head, Yazzie began noticing a surge of Navajo youth on bicycles. It was one of the few activities the tribe permitted during shutdowns, and the young people on Navajo Nation were taking full advantage. “Seeing that shifted our entire focus,” Yazzie says. “We made a point to target youth tours, and made sure that whatever proceeds we made were going to go back into the community.” Navajo Nation youth do not have access to luxuries so many of us

GUTTER CREDIT

“I had to get creative to get her out on the longer rides,” he adds, laughing. “I made flashcards and study guides and would hide them until we were a ways out. That seemed to work.” Early expeditions on Navajo Nation, however, were not without resistance. Confrontations with non-Native off-roading tour companies ensued, with the motorized groups often commandeering routes to awe-inspiring destinations like Hunts Mesa. “They were giving us a vibe that we weren’t welcome,” Yazzie says. “I called Navajo Nation Parks & Rec[reation] and just said, ‘Look, I’m a local. What do I have to do to be able to just ride in my backyard?’” The encounters eventually shuttled Yazzie toward his next hurdle: navigating permit acquisition. Biking was seldom listed in the criteria for backcountry licensing, but there was a workaround. For a manageable annual sum, businesses could acquire permits. Yazzie was on an overnight bikepacking trip with Johnson, frustrations mounting, when the idea hit him. Why not just start a company? Dzil Ta’ah Adventures, and its custom bikepacking tours catered to all skill levels, was on its way. Of course, the duo first had to develop the professional framework, but they were dealt a fortuitous hand when Johnson, who was enrolled in a business class at the time, was given an assignment to develop a mock company. “We thought, ‘Why not just do the assignment about our actual company?’” Yazzie says. By the end of this semester, Dzil Ta’ah Adventures had a complete

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

take for granted. Yazzie knows this. He’s lived it. Diminished existential outlooks catalyzed by limited education and health care, housing shortages, substance abuse, and a scarcity of employment has, Yazzie says, too often manifested in the worst way. “Suicide rates in Navajo Nation are pretty high,” he says. “I’d love to use these tours as a platform to build [youth] up.” Ever the educator, Yazzie now dreams of a Dzil Ta’ah support system that provides Navajo youth—in addition to privately booked groups—with adventure, education, and an added layer of cultural infusion. “When I go into an English class and look at state-required texts, it’s books like Adventures of Huckleberry Finn or Don Quixote,” Yazzie says. “These kids have no connection to those worlds, but there is so much good Navajo literature our students could connect to. It describes our home and these places intertwined with our history. We should be making connections between what we’re seeing, reading, and the stories we’re telling.” Yazzie believes the results of this approach—a reacquaintance with heritage and an admirable history of perseverance through hardship—could be key to building resilience in Dzil Ta’ah’s youngest demographic. “We’re going to build a bikepacking community on Navajo Nation, and it’s going to start with our youth,” he says. “Even if it helps just one kid, we want to do that.”

Join a Tour

JOIN DZIL TA’AH ADVENTURES ON A MULTI-DAY TRIP OF RIDING, STARGAZING, AND STORYTELLING. Dzil Ta’ah Adventures currently offers three routes, with about 10 more in the works, that can be customized by difficulty and

length to meet individual preferences. Hunts Mesa, the Yellow

Dirt Route, and an expansive, 98-mile loop Yazzie calls the TriCity Route are all available. “Each one is meaningful,” Yazzie says. “They’re all tied to our history.”

The Yellow Dirt Route, for example, traces the steps of the Cold

War-era uranium collection, during which time otherworldly rock formations were blown apart by the Atomic Energy Commission, on behalf of the federal government, to mine for material used

to build atomic warheads. Navajos were employed as miners in

the process, with many contracting terminal illnesses as a result. Multi-day trip fees include

lodging, riding, storytelling,

wildlife viewing, and inevitably, spectacular stargazing. Packaged overnight tours start at $1,100.

To learn more, visit dziltaahadventures.com

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GUTTER CREDIT

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#LowaBoots #ForTheNextStep OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

F LY FISHING FIRST TIME

I WENT TO WYOMING’S SNAKE RIVER IN SEARCH OF FISH. I FOUND A NEW CONNECTION TO MY DAD.

I am not the most outdoorsy girl in the world. While I can be swayed toward a camping trip on occasion— though only with a meticulously planned menu and glamping-style tents—I’ll rarely be the one to suggest a hike or similar form of adventure. Story by MAG DALE NA O ’ N EAL My father is the complete oppoPhotographs by JAY N E L-M c I NTOS H site. He skis black-diamond trails, deep-ocean fishes in the Pacific, and has a pop-up tent on top of his Toyota Tacoma. When I’m home in Oakland for the holidays, I might catch him stepping out of the house at 5 a.m. to go throw some flies in Lake Merritt in preparation for a fly-fishing expedition, or sorting through boxes of bait at the kitchen counter. I usually leave the catching of the fish to him (and he leaves the cooking to me), though I have always found fly fishing intriguing. While I admittedly thought it had to do with catching flying fish (which, in my defense, are real) I saw a picture of my dad wearing waders, standing in a lake, in a Simms ad (seriously, he is super outdoorsy) and thought it looked like a good time. When the opportunity to try to catch some trout firsthand on one of the most notorious bodies of water in the West came my way, I thought, Why the heck not? I packed my bags and headed to the Snake River in Wyoming. Fortunate as I am to be the daughter of a fly-fishing pro, I knew nothing of catching fish and dared not to venture out without expert assistance. Instructors at the Jackson Hole Fly Fishing School took me through a course on flies—which ones sit on top of the water, which sink beneath the surface—and fish native to the area prior to stepping into our gear. The team also led me through a casting lesson on land, which greatly improved not only my confidence but also

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

Try Your Hand HEAD OUT ON A WYOMING FLY-FISHING ADVENTURE WITH HELP FROM THE PROS.

JACKSON HOLE FLY FISHING SCHOOL At Jackson Hole’s most popular fishing experience destination,

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my actual cast. Then I gave it a go thigh-deep in rushing water. An easy way to get a bite, I was told, is to cast your fly into the current and allow it to drift downstream until it is out of sight, and then recast. As someone whose vision is nowhere near 20/20, I must say that it is much harder to keep track of a fly in a large, moving body of water than it seems. Twenty minutes later, I was still casting, with no fish paying me or my flies any attention. So there I was, the Tetons topped

with snow in the background, casting my fly over and over, determined to catch a fish, when the person next to me exclaimed that they got a bite. Everyone ran over, someone scooped a small trout up into a net, and all of us cheered because a fish was, in fact, caught—regardless of who was holding the rod. My shoulder was starting to tire from casting, my feet were beginning to get chilly through my socks, waders, and boots, and I was thinking more about how I wanted to cook a

trout than the actual act of catching it—even with rod still in hand—so I asked to take a picture with that lone fish before we threw it back in. I sent off the image to my dad with a cryptic message about how a fish was caught, not explaining exactly by whom, and decided to call my first fly-fishing experience a success. Upon my next visit home, my dad greeted me with a sticker that said “I SUCK AT FLY FISHING.” It now lives permanently on my laptop as a reminder of the humbling experience of coming home with no fish for dinner. But I know if I sneak out to throw flies with him in the wee hours of the morning, a fish will one day bite.

Must-Have Gear THESE ESSENTIALS WILL HAVE YOU CASTING FLIES, WHETHER FOR FUN OR TO ACTUALLY CATCH FISH, JUST ABOUT ANYWHERE.

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SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

If you catch a fish and have to walk back through the water with it and your rod in hand, you don’t want to worry about your bag getting wet or submerged. Orvis’ waterproof sling pack will protect all of your belongings from the elements. $249; ORVIS.COM

Waders are what will keep you from getting your clothes soaked while you’re making your way through the current. These are lightweight and from my father’s favorite brand, Simms. $199; SIMMSFISHING.COM

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Insider SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA The insider: Robyn Ukegawa, manager of Carlsbad Strawberry Company

A fourth-generation Carlsbad resident, Robyn Ukegawa has been involved in her family business, the Carlsbad Strawberry Company, for years. You can go into the strawberry field and pick your own fruit, or wander through the corn maze for cute photo ops. Ukegawa also has other tips for exploring the city known for its beaches and breakfast spots.

luxury resort, go to Park

Hyatt Aviara Resort, Golf Club & Spa. “It has a fan-

cy golf course and nice

amenities like a pool and

spa,” Ukegawa says. “I go for the high tea where

they serve quality teas and little appetizers.”

DRINK: For delicious smoked

EAT: “Carlsbad is well known for the brunch places,”

Ukegawa notes. Her fa-

vorite is Cafe Topes. “They

specialize in Cardiff Crack (marinated tri-tip), and

meats and cocktails,

head to Park 101. It’s "right on the beach,” Ukegawa

says. Or, go to Barrel Republic for draft beers

where you can pour your

DO: It wouldn’t be a trip to

Southern California without the beach. “Go to the beach and paddleboard in the lagoon,” Ukegawa says. You’re able to rent boats, kayaks, paddleboards, and more.

SHOP: The Forum features highend brands and casual

clothing stores. Don’t forget to pick up freshsqueezed juice at Pressed Juicery.

own on tap.

they also make really

great cinnamon rolls.” For your morning coffee,

head to Steady State for quality roasted beans.

STAY: The Sheraton Carlsbad

Resort & Spa is in a prime location. Less than a mile from Legoland, the hotel

is also close to Ukegawa’s strawberry farm, the

beach, and other tourist

attractions. For a five-star

Steady State

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

Cafe Topes

Carlsbad Strawberry Company

Carlsbad lagoon

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: CAMERON O'BRIEN; DELAINY REINARD; CARLSBAD STRAWBERRY COMPANY; ELLA CIESLAK/GRACE FILMS CO.; CARLSBAD STRAWBERRY COMPANY

This month: Carlsbad, California

Seasonal diversions and secret travel tips from local experts.

THE ROCKIES “I don’t want to sound cliché, but going to Denver brings out my inner cowboy,” says chef Ludo Lefebvre, founder of Chez Maggy restaurant in Denver’s Thompson Hotel. Originally based in Los Angeles, Lefebvre is new to the Mile High City that has no shortage of places to stay, eat, drink, and explore. So we asked for his favorite spots in his new favorite town. Thompson Denver Hotel

Hop Alley

SHOP: Lucchese Bootmaker

features a variety of cow-

Keystone

boy boots in a wide range of styles and prices. “Plus, you have to love a boot

brand that has its own te-

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: CHRIS GIOVENCO; KEYSTONE RESORT; LUCCHESE; LIONEL DELUY; MARC FIORITO WITH GAMMA NINE

This month: Denver, Colorado The insider: Chef Ludo Lefebvre, founder of Chez Maggy

quila and celebrates the purchase with a shot!!” Lefebvre says.

DO: “I felt like a kid in a candy store,” Lefebvre says of

the first time he attended the National Western

Stock Show. “The rodeo, the clothing, the ambi-

ance. It’s fun to have a full immersion experience in

the Western lifestyle.” Just an hour and a half from

the center of Denver, Keystone Ski Resort also

holds a special place in

Lefebvre’s heart. “Our kids

learned to ski at Keystone

also stops by Hop Alley

old,” he says. “The ski

with Lap Cheong sausage

when they were 3 years school is top-notch,

and the mountain has

128 runs.” During the summer, hike Dercum Moun-

tain, go biking, play a few rounds of golf, or take a

and shrimp, or the La Zi Ji, which combines sichuan chili and fried chicken thighs.

EAT:

country. Oskar Blues Grill

town, Lefebvre says. He

has two favorite dishes:

the chilaquiles and Chinese sausage fried rice with two fried eggs. He

“I really enjoy spending time downtown at the

new Thompson Denver

Hotel, home to Chez Maggy,” Lefebvre says. “It’s Lucchese Bootmaker,

DRINK: Denver boasts some of

is the best breakfast in

STAY:

within walking distance to

gondola ride.

Onefold in Union Station

Lucchese Bootmaker

for the turnip cake, made

the best breweries in the & Brew “has SO many

beers on tap,” Lefebvre

says. “It is fun to try and

Union Station, Larimer

Square, Coors Field, the

Dairy Block—and the hotel has some of the best

views of the city and the Rocky Mountains.”

learn about different

types of beers. They also have a nice selection of cider.”

OUTDOOR LIVING 2022 • SUNSET

San Francisco Botanical Garden

EAT:

supplies, and Black Bird

perience a bright yellow

stocked, kid-friendly

“This is such a cozy res-

a beautiful garden tucked

head to Mandalay to ex-

Bookstore, a well-

façade and great food.

bookstore. “Plus they have

taurant with the warmest

in the back for readings!”

samusa soup and tea leaf

DO:

visiting Twirl and Dip, an

cisco without a trip to

the museum concourse

a day getting lost on the

the weekend. “My favorite

es. “I especially love the

creamery vanilla bean

from the giant redwood

dark chocolate, sprinkled

blossoming in the [San

waffle cone.”

Garden.” Don’t forget to

SHOP:

paddle boat ride and pic-

staff. I love Mandalay’s

The Alembic

This month: San Francisco, California The insider: Meenal Patel, owner of Meenal Patel Studio

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA Meenal Patel is an artist, illustrator, designer, and children’s book author who loves spending time hiking and doodling. Her most recent book, Priya Dreams of Marigolds and Masala, published in 2019 and received a 2020 South Asia Book Award. Patel previously collaborated with Cloud9 Fabrics to create whimsical garden-inspired patterns that show how people are intertwined with nature. Here’s where she hangs out in the Bay Area.

SUNSET • OUTDOOR LIVING 2022

thoughtful selection of art

For a foggy-day meal,

salad.” Patel also loves

You can’t visit San Fran-

ice cream truck parked in

Golden Gate Park. “Spend

of Golden Gate Park on

many trails,” Patel advis-

is their signature: Strauss

endless plant inspiration

soft serve, dipped in TCHO

trees to all the tiny buds

with flaky sea salt, in a

Francisco] Botanical

stop by Stow Lake for a

Rare Device shop and art

nic. For sweeping views of

items produced by artists

Gate Bridge, hike the trails

makers—many of whom

northwest corner.

within the shop has

DRINK:

community events,” Patel

drink in a long time thanks

visiting TANTRUM, a gift

old goodie is The Alem-

life. “I’m a kid at heart!”

shares a wall with The

for Making, which offers

great place to drink craft

watercolors along with a

your new favorite book.

gallery features many

the ocean and the Golden

and small business

at Lands End in the city’s

are local. “The gallery

monthly art shows and

“I haven’t been out for a

says. She also loves

to the pandemic but an

shop for the littles in your

bic,” says Patel. The bar

Patel says. Or, visit Case

Booksmith, making it a

its own handmade

cocktails while reading

Black Bird Bookstore

DRINK the ISSUE

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2020 Lioco Chardonnay Sonoma County

Crisp and bright from start to finish, this wine pairs well with the classic California flavors found at Alice Waters’ new Los Angeles restaurant Lulu (page 41). The nose transports you to an orchard full of green apple with hints of lemon pith, fresh cut green pineapple and chamomile.

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2020 Angeline Pinot Noir Reserve Mendocino County

While the nose is centered on plush berries, plums, and bing cherries, wild violets and stone fruit blossoms surround the periphery, as do tiny hints of cinnamon and anise. High on pleasure with a low monetary impact, this is an excellent choice for our no-fire camping dishes (page 63).

2019 Paydirt Going For Broke Red Wine California

Elegance and power with a lush profile makes this the ultimate red blend for the woodfired Sonoran dishes found at Bacanora, the coolest new Phoenix restaurant from rising star chef Rene Andrade (page 50). The mouthfeel is juicy and balanced by excellent acidity with a mountain of depth and concentration.

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An attractive perfume of black currants, plum, toast, cocoa, sandalwood, and black olives pounces with a pleasant intensity. Juicy, black fruit flavors build to a solid core, accompanied by fine powdery tannins. Flavors of toasted oak add complexity to the fruit, finishing on a pleasantly spicy note.

2021 Lorenza True Rosé California

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2019 Bernardus Winery Merlot Carmel Valley Monterey

Vanilla and sage dance on the palate with fresh black cherry, raspberry jam, and mint. The texture is inviting and smooth with a full body and effortlessly soft tannins. Crushed gravel and warmed spices on the long finish.

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Travel Planner OREGON

OREGON’S ONLY NATIONAL PARK CRATER LAKE IS 50 MILES NORTH OF MEDFORD

OREGON CRATER LAKE

CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK

An hour’s drive from Medford, Crater Lake is Oregon’s only national park and the deepest lake in the United States. An experience of a lifetime, you’ll be in awe of its pristine blue water surrounded by sheer, breathtaking cliffs. Hike, swim or take a boat ride to Wizard Island.

ROGUE VALLEY WINE COUNTRY

Named one of the top global wine destinations by Forbes and Wine Enthusiast, the awardwinning Rogue Valley Wine Country is quickly being recognized for its boutique wineries and charm. 70 varietals and 53 tasting rooms dotted among four wine trails await your visit.

CULINARY AND AGRICULTURE

The rich soils and mild climate that make wine-making ideal in Southern Oregon also lends to the agricultural mecca in the region. Come ready to experience the World’s Best Cheese at Rogue Creamery, renowned Royal Riviera Pears at Medford-based Harry and David, and locallysourced artisan foods and ingredients at one of the nation’s top-ranked farmers’ market.

WHITEWATER FUN

If outdoor fun and adventure is on your bucket list, a visit to the Rogue Valley is a must. The Rogue River is designated as one of the country’s Wild and Scenic Rivers and boasts Class V rapids among its 216-mile stretch. Whether you raft, kayak, tube or paddleboard, you’re sure to have thrills and spills while appreciating incredible forest and wildlife sights.

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How did Hike Clerb start?

nature and realizing we were al-

hold, like many multicultural house-

been so crazy to see that even in

I am a Black Latina and in my households, there wasn’t an emphasis or

importance on going out into nature. I started Hike Clerb as a solution to

problems that I saw were presenting

meet as often as we’d like, we are still inspiring people outside.

What advice do you have for peo-

I originally created an Instagram ac-

Hiking is basically a glorified nature

count and told all my friends that we

were going to go hiking at Griffith Ob-

servatory. I had about 10 of my friends with me the first time, my husband

took photos, and then I posted them. How did you relate to nature before? I visited my first national park at 23

years old. I went to the Grand Canyon and Zion National Park and noticed

people would look at me a little funny on the trail and it was just so over-

whelmingly white. I thought to myself, “Oh, these are national parks, in the

United States of America, it’s gonna be diverse,” and they definitely were not. How has Hike Clerb evolved?

Starting out, I really just wanted to hold

Evelynn Escobar founded Hike Clerb to encourage more people to get outdoors. Now, she’s ready to take that mission beyond Los Angeles.

this time, where we can’t physically

themselves to me as I dug deeper into hiking and just being outdoors, period.

HEALING POWER OF NATURE

ready offering safe solutions. So it’s

and literally take up space with others. It’s really turned into its own move-

ple who want to explore nature?

walk—you don’t have to be climbing Mount Everest! If you are comfortable walking long distances, you

can go on a hike, just take it slow. Did the birth of your daughter expand your scope of the outdoors?

I feel more grounded and impacted by my own feminine power by connecting to Mother Nature and the

planet with her alongside me. It’s interesting seeing how my community grows with me. We had a hike the other day that had three babies on the trail; my daughter on my back

and two other mothers with theirs.

It’s such an amazing experience to be around all of these women with

different backgrounds and be able to expose my daughter to that.

ment beyond a hiking club that met

What’s next for Hike Clerb?

the world who write to us wanting us to

Bio (Building Inclusivity Outdoors)

monthly. We have people from all over come and do hikes.

How did the pandemic affect you?

We still grew exponentially, because all these people were starting to turn to

We launched a program called the Program, where we take school-age girls and nonbinary students out of school to go on hikes. We’ve had a very impactful year and what’s

ahead is just expanding on that.

Evelynn Escobar wants more women of color out on trails. To that end, she founded Hike Clerb in 2017 as a monthly hike for friends. Now a Los Angeles nonprofit, the club has since evolved to help provide resources, workshops, and opportunities to explore the outdoors for people who may not have thought it was for them, or who didn’t grow up with access. She has created a global community, and organized hikes from California to Toronto, with the largest drawing more than 100 women out on one trail. Escobar refers to it as the “Hike Clerb universe,” and she plans to expand with even more hikes, creative endeavors, and outreach programs. So, we chatted to learn more.

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Interview by MAG DALE NA O ’ N EAL

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bigger than make believe In Wyoming, the backpack still serves that more noble purpose. As a companion into the unknown. So, this summer, pack yours for a field trip unlike any other.

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