Sunset Outdoor Living AugSept 2023

Savor Summer

WATER-SKI

WONDERLAND

CHIC SANTA BARBARA RETREAT

NEW WINE COUNTRY COOKING

The Western Mushroom Boom

The Art of Lei Making Luxe National Park Lodges

New wine-country cooking from Sonoma’s Valley restaurant, the community gathering spot and convivial bottle shop of our dreams.

Travel

75 Women of the Waves Portraits and profiles of women surfers from Laura Einzig’s pioneering coffeetable book, Making Waves

Mushrooms are having a moment across the West. Taste the trend at these hotels, events, restaurants, and more.

86 I nsider Guides

What to do, eat, and see in Oceanside, Anchorage, and Las Vegas.

Voices

96 Mitsuki Hara on the immersive art of spearfishing.

OUTDOOR LIVING 2023

Photograph

Endless Summers

CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER

Michael A. Reinstein

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Hugh Garvey

DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Sarah Yang

Valley’s melon salad with pickled chilies is the taste of summer.

Every year it seems summers get shorter than they used to be. And while I’ve been saying that ever since I was kid, this summer is by far the briefest in recent memory if you’re using long sunny days as your metric. The infamous June Gloom that hangs over Los Angeles was preceded by an unrelenting May Gray that was ushered in by an equally sunless April that some clever person dubbed Graypril. This solemn, solar-free spring was preceded by a preposterously cloudy and wet winter, which is why, once the gray goes away, I’ll be savoring every free sunny minute and maximizing every available ocean breeze, porch swing, hammock, road trip, trail run, cookout, and alfresco dinner I can—all in the company of close friends and family.

To make the most of these languorous (hopefully sunny) days, I’ll be taking my cues from this issue. Here we’ve collected inspiration to keep you thriving right through the rest of summer and into early fall (which in the West is pretty much like summer for the first month or so). There will be a long-overdue work trip to Hawaii, where my kids first donned leis that were austere compared to the ravishingly gorgeous wearable flowers from Meleana Estes, the Hawiian floral artist whose work graces our pages in an excerpt from her beautiful book on the art of lei-making. It’s a stunning survey of the craft and culture that is far more varied than casual visitors to Hawaii would ever know from the garlands handed out at resorts. I’ll be taking advantage of the summer’s sweetest produce and making dishes the way they do at Valley, the charming restaurant and bottle shop on Sonoma’s town square. We’ve got recipes for a few of their delicious dishes, such as zucchini with basil and butter, which is little more than the name suggests but greater than the sum of its summery parts thanks to great technique and careful peak-season shopping. I’ll go water-skiing with old friends on Lake Arrowhead, much like the lucky homeowners of the sleek water-ski ranch on the cover that rises from the Arizona desert like a modernist oasis. And I’ll carry on a summer family tradition and visit the same beach that my wife frequented as a kid with her parents, and if we’re lucky our fifth-generation California kids will join us and one day in a future summer take their sixth-generation California kids there, too, and talk about how summers seem to be getting shorter and how we’ll savor them to the fullest.

—Hugh Garvey, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Wilson

PHOTO EDITOR

Christine Bobbish

STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Thomas J. Story

TRAVEL EDITOR

Krista Simmons

SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR

Kristin Guy

CONTRIBUTING HOME & DESIGN EDITOR

Christine Lennon

CONTRIBUTING HOME & GARDEN EDITOR

Deanna Kizis

VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL INITIATIVES

Matt Gross DIGITAL PRODUCER/NEWSLETTER EDITOR

Nicole Clausing

LIFESTYLE CONTRIBUTOR

Camille Styles

SENIOR DIRECTOR, PRODUCTION

Jamie Elliott

Sales & Marketing

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VP, PARTNERSHIPS

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HEAD OF TRAVEL

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DIRECTOR OF AD OPERATIONS

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HEAD OF CUSTOM EVENTS

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ACCOUNT MANAGER

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Sunset Media International Corporation

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

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Graydon Sheinberg

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The Paint Works 707-963-9551

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Sonoma Paint Center sonomapaintcenters.com

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Peninsula California Paint Company californiapaint.com

Gray’s Paint Stores grayspaints.com

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House of Color Daly City, 650-994-4270

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experts are.

LUXURIOUS ORGANIC SLEEP

America’s best rated, certified organic mattresses are now affordable for everyone. Our mission is to be the most respected source for organic mattresses, pillows and bedding — while maintaining environmentally conscious, ethical, and sustainable business practices — to help safeguard the health of people and the planet. Experience Avocado at your local experience center or online at AvocadoGreenMattress.com.

BEST OF THE WEST

Luxe Lodges

A new book celebrates historic lodges in the West’s national parks, from the opulent Ahwahnee in Yosemite to the Spanish Revival Inn at Death Valley.

The Mural Room at the Ahwahnee.

The grandeur of our national parks isn’t limited to their natural splendor: Our treasured summer playgrounds are also home to some of the most impressive and rustically grand hotels in the United States. With their stacked-stone walls, shingled cabins, cavernous fireplaces, soaring dining rooms, cozy knottywood-paneled bedrooms, and Wes Anderson–worthy retro vibes, the lodges live up to the nickname given to them by staffers: parkitecture. Portland-based interior designer Max Humphrey’s beautiful new coffee-table book, Lodge: An Indoorsy Tour of America’s National Parks ($40, Gibbs Smith) is a heartfelt homage to these hotels that were built in the late 1800s and early 1900s, a golden era of parkitectural experimentation not to be repeated. From the stately Ahwahnee in Yosemite to the taxidermy and timber of El Tovar at the Grand Canyon to Yellowstone’s massive log structure Old Faithful Inn, each hotel is a marvel true to its place and time. Co-written by Kathryn O’Shea-Evans, with photographs by David Tsay and Rob Schanz, the book is equal parts photo essay, historyminded travelogue, and Americana interior-design eye candy. In this excerpt, we take a quick tour of the Ahwanee and the Inn at Death Valley to give you a taste of this essential tome.

Previous page: Back in the day, California artist Robert Boardman Howard painted these linen-lined walls with Yosemite fauna, alongside a hand-hammered copper fireplace hood. It’s in the Mural Room, which feels like you’re in a time capsule. It’s totally indulgent—not the type of room most of us normally get to sit around in, reading books and sipping hot cocoa.

The palm-tree–flanked pool at the Inn at Death Valley is springfed and stays a cozy 87 degrees.

Tiered fountains gurgle on the dining room patio at the Inn at Death Valley, adding to the Mediterranean feel.

This is the best table in the Ahwahnee Dining Room (and reportedly where Queen Elizabeth II sat when she stayed here in 1983). Adding to the storybook appeal? The 34-foot-high exposed-beam ceiling, twinkling chandeliers, and the view over misty Yosemite Falls.

We visited the Ahwahnee in late winter before the trees began blooming again. But honestly, the hotel’s granite-andconcrete faux-wood exterior (a fire-prevention measure) looks dynamite in all seasons.

Happy Trails

KEEP COOL ON YOUR HIKES WITH THESE SUMMER ESSENTIALS.

HOKA X COTOPAXI BREEZE LOW

Boasting Cotopaxi’s signature vibrant colors and Hoka’s technical but stylish design, this super-ventilated hiker is perfect for summer. This collaboration benefits True Colors United, an organization that provides support to homeless LGBTQ youth. $165, HOKA.COM

FREEZABLE SNACK BAG

We’ve been there: hungry on a hike with an energy bar melting in our hand. Packit’s cute and compact snack bag can prevent dreaded snack melt and keep your lip balm and sunscreen blissfully chilled when you’re out on the trail. $15, PACKIT.COM

LIFESTRAW GO

Pack perfectly potable water no matter the source with the new 24-oz. stainless Lifestraw Go water bottle, tricked out with a two-stage filter that removes bacteria, microplastics, and other contaminants. Plus the Kyoto orange is a cool color. $60, LIFESTRAW.COM

Ask for the stone-clad suite overlooking the spring-fed swimming pool at the Inn at Death Valley.

LODGE: DAVID TSAY

Retro Read

Shady Idea

In 1969 Sunset celebrated a stylish take on the beach tent. Fifty years later, the idea still holds up.

Back in August 1969, a pair of Sunset editors on vacation in Portugal were so inspired by the colorful wood-and-canvas beach shades they saw on the island of Porto Santo that they decided to share them as a DIY project with the magazine’s readers upon their return. Although they ended up on this iconic cover that perfectly captures an idyllic mid-century SoCal summer, Madeira-style shades never quite took off in the states. Fortunately, Laguna-based Business & Pleasure Co. makes an equally stylish minimalist shade called the Premium Beach Tent. Made of UV-blocking UPF 50 canvas and World Forestry–registered reclaimed wood poles, it’s an updated but equally timeless way to stay cool this sum mer. $199, BUSINESSANDPLEASURECO.COM

Outdoor Icon

FILSON’S CRUISER JACKET

Starting in the 1920s, Seattle-based outfitter Filson regularly advertised its rugged outerwear in the pages of Sunset. More often than not, they promoted what is now one of the most iconic jackets in American fashion: the cruising coat, a.k.a. the cruiser. Made of high-grade wool, the jacket was wind- and waterproof, with generous pockets, including an oversized map pocket across the back that could help adventurous readers navigate the then-less-developed corners of the West. It was a favorite of loggers, hunters, and hikers, and is now a mainstay for anyone looking for a fashionable foul-weather coat using natural material. Today, the jacket remains essentially unchanged and is an heirloom piece that many Westerners own and pass down for generations. $495, FILSON.COM

2023

HOME & GARDEN

Lei maker Meleana Estes is one of the foremost teachers of the Hawaiian craft. In this excerpt from her new book, Lei Aloha, she encourages budding lei artists to make the most of the beauty around them.

Story

by MELEANA ESTES • Photographs by TARA ROCK

rowing up in Hawaii, Meleana Estes was immersed in the traditions of lei making, thanks to her tūtū, or grandmother, a seamstress and costume designer who took up lei making in the 1960s, when traditional Hawaiian skills were re-emerging throughout the islands. Her tutu became an expert over the years and passed this knowledge to her family and to Meleana, who, after a career in fashion, who went on to become an expert lei maker and teacher of the craft, running workshops first in Honolulu and eventually abroad. Brought to the Hawaiian islands by Polynesians hundreds of years ago, leis have their own sets of legend, cultural meaning, and ritual significance, and were made with seeds, shells, feathers, leaves, and flowers of near infinite variety and combinations, though what most tourists encounter these days are leis made with imported orchids. Estes’s new book, Lei Aloha: Celebrating the Vibrant Flowers and Lei of Hawai’i, is a stunningly beautiful collection of stories, photographs, and how-tos centering on this rich and varied tradition that few visitors ever get to see in its vivid and diverse glory. In this excerpt, Estes writes about how leis transcend place and can be made wherever you are. As she writes in the introduction: “The flowers that make up each lei are less important than the aloha (love) that goes into its sharing.”

For more inspiring stories and stunning photographs of leis, purchase a copy of Lei Aloha: Celebrating the Vibrant Flowers and Lei of Hawai’i, by Meleana Estes, $32.50

When I left Hawai’i to attend college on the mainland, a lei sent from home was everything to me when I was homesick. For my birthday, my tūtū would make lei po‘o from materials in her Mānoa yard—one for me and one for my roommate—take them for inspection at the airport agricultural station (necessary if you want to ship plant material out of Hawai‘i), and send them in the mail. When I opened the carefully packed box of lei placed between layers of tī to keep them cool and fresh, it was like being transported back home. I felt her love as clearly as if I was standing on the cool cement floor of her basement garage as she tied lei po‘o on my head before school on a birthday morning.

But one beautiful thing about lei making is that flowers are everywhere. Once you are a lei maker, you see the first spring blossoms on your college quad, mountain ferns on a hike in the Sierras, or the flower markets in New York City in a different way—full of lei possibilities.

Using what is in abundance around you—wherever you are in the world—is an important lei-making skill. I always travel with raffia and a lei needle in case I feel called to make a lei with whatever beautiful material I might come across. I’ve made lei from bright pink bougainvillea in India, hydrangeas in the Hamptons, and Aspen leaves in Colorado, which reminded me of broad lapalapa leaves at home.

Entertainer and kumu hulu Robert Cazimero remembers traveling on the mainland for shows with his lead dancer, fellow kumu, and dear friend, Leina‘ala Kalama Heine. They would pull over on the side of the road in San Francisco or Seattle to gather blue and purple hydrangea for wili. “She would be the one saying, ‘Stop the car,’ ” he says, smiling about how they couldn’t pass up the opportunity to use one of his favorite flowers for making wili lei.

“I don’t have the luxury as much as you do in Hawai‘i, but there are wonderful things that we get here that I know,” says Los Angeles–based lei maker Leilani Huggins, who makes lei under the name Leis by Leilani. Born in Los Angeles, her family lived on Maui for a brief part of her childhood, and at the age of 6 she returned to live in Los

Angeles. But her Native Hawaiian side of the family made sure she learned the craft of lei on regular visits to the islands. Now she runs a successful leito-order business in southern California using materials bought at markets, like gardenia, anthurium, and orchids, as well as plants sourced from her neighborhood. “My whole block and

my whole neighborhood have the Metrosideros, the ōhi‘a, [which] is blooming like crazy right now. All the lei that I’ve been making the last couple days are all ōhi‘a lehua,” she says, when I called her in May. “We don’t get the [same kahili liko] leaves, but the bloom is the exact same. The buds are the exact same.”

Story by DEANNA KIZIS

GARDEN CHECKLIST SUMMER LATE YOUR

What to do in your garden no matter where you are in the West.

In Grasses for Gardens and Landscapes, author Neil Lucas tells us how to grow, maintain, and design with ornamental grasses. Here, a grass landscape moves into August with plants like Echinacea and Eupatorium showing off their late-summer flowers and forms.

PLANT

Grow seedlings of herbs such as chervil, dill, and watercress in well-draining soil in a location that receives four to six hours of sunshine. Once plants are established, snip leaves to add to salads.

For fall color, plant asters, crimson flags, dahlias, mums, and pansies in pots. Use high-fired glazed containers instead of standard terra-cotta, which often breaks apart in winter.

Sow seeds for cool-season root crops such as beets, radishes, rutabagas, and turnips in an area with full sun and well-amended soil.

MAINTAIN

Check drip-irrigation lines for leaks. Because they discharge water slowly, it’s easy to miss problems until plants start dying.

Build a compost pile now where you want to plant a tree next spring. When planting time comes, the ground will be easy to dig and full of nutrients—just what your new tree wants.

Pull weeds by hand or spray with undiluted white household vinegar. White vinegar will kill most weeds, including thistle; large, established weeds may require multiple applications

If honeybees and other pollinators are scarce in your garden, hand-pollinate plants by using a fine-tipped paintbrush to dab pollen from one flower and deposit it in an adjacent one.

PROTECT

Rinse off the foliage on all your plants several times during the hot season to reduce pest pressure, namely pesky mites and whiteflies. (Your greenery will look nicer, too!)

Check tomatoes for leaves that are yellowing or wilting after watering—both are signs of fusarium wilt. Toss infected plants into the green-waste bin. To avoid the soilborne fungus next year, select diseaseresistant varieties, marked with an F on their plant tag, and don’t grow tomatoes in the same spot.

Move houseplants away from windows if their leaves seem to be burning in the strong sun. Be sure to keep plants watered in airconditioning; dry air is hard on them.

Get on the Ball

ONE OF THE OLDEST GAMES AROUND IS THE HOT NEW THING

Part of a garden editor’s job is to be on the lookout for trends, and when friends told me they were putting in bocce ball courts, my hot-new-thing meter went bing! “I love my court,” says a friend in Los Angeles. “It’s the social center of my garden. Guests are drawn to it—and it wasn’t expensive to put in, either.”

Landscape designers have spotted the trend, too. June Scott of June Scott Design in Pasadena says she started noticing more requests for bocce courts as people became increasingly concerned about drought and wanted to replace their lawns. And while some people might think of bocce ball as an old person’s sport, it’s anything but. “In terms of who’s asking for them, we’re seeing a range from empty nesters who want something that will appeal to their kids and grandkids to singles who want to socialize with friends,” Scott says.

Want to play ball? Here are some things to consider:

DO YOU HAVE SPACE?

The dimensions of an official bocce ball court are 86.92 feet long by 13.12 feet wide. That said, Molly Wood of Molly Wood Garden Design in Costa Mesa says she can make do with as little as 22 by 6 feet.

DO YOU HAVE THE RIGHT PITCH?

“The court should be flat,” says Scott, “and this means that drainage must be excellent.” Surfaces can be sand, grass, clay, or decomposed granite.

YOU NEED AN EDGE

Bocce courts require a border since you don’t want the balls to roll off the court.

PICK THE RIGHT LOCATION

Bocce ball is a social game, so make sure you place your court in an inviting spot, as opposed to a sideyard.

GET ROLLING

“A bocce ball court can really enhance an outdoor space,” says Wood. “Add a colorful umbrella or two and you will have a lovely invitation to go outside.”

Counter Fire

FIRESCAPING TIPS FOR WESTERN HOMEOWNERS

If you’re living in a potential burn area, Firescaping Your Home: A Manual for Readiness in Wildfire Country, by Adrienne Edwards and Rachel Schleiger, is a must-buy. A primer with everything from how fire moves to how to firescape the land around your home while keeping your garden beautiful. You don’t want to miss their expert ideas. “Between 30 and 80 percent of communities in the West live in the wildland-urban interface, while over the last decade, the number, size, and intensity of wildland fires has increased,” say the authors. “The main objectives of the book are to help folks plan and maintain living firescapes that support wildlife but also protect structures to the greatest extent possible.”

FIRESCAPING YOUR HOME, HACHETTE BOOK GROUP, $29.99

Botanical Beauty

WELLNESS FROM THE GARDEN

The end of summer can leave your skin parched and in need of serious TLC, so why not use products that are filled with things we can find in the garden? “What I love about botanical-rich skincare is how fewer products are needed to deliver powerful results,” says Sarah Buscho, who created Earth Tu Face. “Luxurious botanical extracts deliver powerful antioxidants, cellular renewal, and beautiful aromas. Every lather, slather, scrub, and spritz should connect us back to the natural world.” Here are a few favorites, all from founders in the West:

VINTNER’S DAUGHTER

Created by the daughter of Napa Valley winemakers, Vintner’s Daughter is a cult favorite of celebrities like Tracee Ellis Ross, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Naomi Watts. On why she started the brand, April Gargiulo says, “I wanted to build a skincare company on the same philosophical foundations as the winemaking world I grew up in—a community that places a high value on craftsmanship and quality.” Her skin, by the way? Positively glowing. VINTNER’S DAUGHTER ACTIVE BOTANICAL SERUM, FROM $195, VINTNERSDAUGHTER.COM

Grass Roots

In Grasses for Gardens and Landscapes, author Neil Lucas has created an A-to-Z guide on ornamental grasses, along with planting and care tips. “Grasses have some fairly unique qualities such as versatility and durability,” he says, “but what I really love about them is their ability to be beautiful in detail when seen as individuals, and yet to be simply stunning when used en masse.”

GRASSES FOR GARDENS AND LANDSCAPES, TIMBER PRESS, $50

FLORA MIRABILIS

In-demand Los Angeles aesthetician Jordan LaFragola’s cleansing clay emulsifies into a lather thanks to a blend of kaolin, a gentle clay that comes from weathered granite, anti-inflammatory essential oils like vetiver and cedarwood, and powdered apple-cider vinegar to prevent microbes and free radicals from setting up shop on your skin. FLORA MIRABILIS CLEANSING CLAY, $60, FLORAMIRABILIS.COM

EARTH TU FACE

Actress turned vegan evangelist Alicia Silverstone and model Karlie Kloss are fans of this brand, and who wouldn’t be with this gorgeous shell compact? Inside is a lavender-and-mint lip balm with organic safflower oil, non-GMO sunflower vitamin E, and beeswax. The lavender and spearmint scent is divine—and works as aromatherapy to enhance your mood and calm stress.

EARTH TU FACE LAVENDER + MINT LIP BALM, $39, EARTHTUFACE.COM

The New

A MUSICAL FAMILY’S COZY SANTA BARBARA COMPOUND IS A MODERN-BOHO BEACH RETREAT, FILLED WITH AN UNEXPECTED MIX OF SWEDISH AND AMERICAN ANTIQUES, IRREVERENT COLOR, AND PLENTY OF RELAXED CHARM.

Bohemians

Story by CHRISTINE LENNON

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

TThere’s nothing like a tall, green hedge to create a little real estate intrigue, and the best neighborhoods in Santa Barbara are lined with them. The coastal California community is known as one of the country’s favorite beachside retreats, and for its many homes that look as though they were plucked straight from a storybook—if you’re lucky enough to catch a glimpse through thick green foliage.

Yes, Oprah has a palatial house there, and a certain English expat calls it home. But the real appeal of the area lies in the rambling beach houses and quaint cottages hidden behind thick tree cover and unassuming gates. The minicompound that Nina Gordon and Jeff Russo found on a quiet side street near the shore, hidden by dense foliage, is one of those places. With its off-the-charts charm, pops of cheerful color, and collected vintage pieces, in just a handful of years it’s become a cherished, music-filled family retreat with modern bohemian style.

“The house opens up to the garden, and we are in and out all the time,” says Gordon. Beach walks, bike rides, trips to the farmers’ market, big barbecues, and late night

firepit singalongs are regular events, and the guest room is rarely empty. “We eat all our summer meals outside. It’s low maintenance and easy. I expect the floor to be sandy all the time, and I don’t mind it at all.”

Shells from local beaches arranged on a 1940s steel console. Shapiro found the mirror, assembled from painted antique moldings, in Santa Fe.

Gordon, a singer-songwriter and member of the band Veruca Salt, and Russo, a composer for television and film and guitarist for the band Tonic, spent a number of summers getting to know the area the same way many Angelenos do, renting houses near the beach for a few weeks to escape the hazy August heat with their young children. Occasionally, they’d check open house listings to entertain the idea of finding a summery cottage of their own.

“It’s easy to fall in love with all of the dreamy little beach towns in the area,” says Gordon. “And there’s just something about the quality of the light and the clarity of the natural colors that is truly magical.”

One property in particular, an acre plot with a traditional three-bedroom cottage that dates back to 1895, a guesthouse, a small creek running through the property, and a mature rose garden, caught their attention back in 2019. Unlike many of its grander neighbors, it felt modest in scale and attitude, just

big enough to accommodate visiting family and friends. An added bonus was the replica of a circus caravan, which was built as a playhouse for the previous owner’s daughter, that occupied a rear corner of the garden.

They saw it once and were instantly smitten with the local-stone fireplaces, winding gravel pathways, and mature gardens.

“The first thing I fell in love with was the trees,” says Gordon, “the sculptural California live oaks, the big redwood out front, the massive shady sycamores, and my favorite, a ginkgo tree out back.”

The house lured them back for a second look. When they went back for a third time, it was clear that something stronger than a whim was brewing. Still, they weren’t ready to take the leap. The house was taken off the market, and the thought faded to the back of their minds. Cut to 2020 when a global lockdown, and a Redfin alert, changed everything.

“We got a Redfin notification in March that the house was back on the market, and we jumped immediately and made an offer,” Gordon says. “The timing was perfect.”

After they got the keys, Gordon’s first call was to her mother, Berta Shapiro, who was in the process of retiring from her long career as an esteemed interior designer in Chicago.

“My mother has the best eye of anyone on the planet,” says Gordon. “I wanted to get her out to see the house as

A 19th-century dining table from Canada in the kitchen is a catch-all for Gordon’s art supplies and latest doodles. Early 20th-century Japanese block prints of vegetables hang above it. One of two family French bulldogs, Winnie, wanders by.

The guesthouse has a single, openconcept room furnished with a bed and a sitting area. The sofa and chairs are from Crate & Barrel. The rug and basket pendant are from Pierre Lafond in Montecito.

Local landscape architect Yvonne Chin revived the garden with concrete pavers, expanded gravel paths, and low-maintenance plantings.

soon as I could, but because these were the early days of Covid, we had to do a lot of FaceTiming.”

By paging through stacks of old issues of World of Interiors, sending photos back and forth with Shapiro, and discussing paint swatches, they were able to create a plan to decorate it quickly, without making anything look rushed or haphazard. First, they chose Farrow & Ball Hague Blue for the front doors, then painted the red oak floors white.

“The white floors made the small house feel open and airier, and created a clean canvas to work with,” says Gordon. “Our painter had done her own floors and knew exactly what to do: Three coats of paint followed by three coats of polyurethane. Overall, I’ve tried to keep the palette sort of soft and oceanic, with some jolts of yellow and the occasional pink.”

Another lucky break was that because Shapiro was retiring, she had an inventory of unique furniture that she’d collected over decades, including 19th-century Swedish chairs, an antique Canadian dining table, and wicker pieces from the 1940s. All of it was Gordon’s for the taking.

“It was a very exciting day when that shipment arrived,” says Gordon. “I am so lucky, because it takes time to amass a collection of interesting pieces with the patina and integrity of age. Because I had them, it made it easy to mix in some practical, less expensive furniture so that I could get the house done quickly and not end

up with a generic feel. The house is really a hybrid of my whimsical style and my mother’s influence.”

The addition of some newer pieces, like Nickey Kehoe dining chairs, and Roche Bobois Voyage Immobile sofas, created a balance of old and new.

“We started with three of the Roche Bobois modular pieces and then kept adding,” she says. “It was sort of like getting one tattoo, and then you just keep adding more and more. They seem to look handsome and chic in any space.”

The walls are filled with charming artwork, like vintage Japanese block prints, poppy posters, and Gordon’s own work in oil sticks and pastels, depicting female faces in various expressive forms.

“I’ve been drawing these faces for decades. It started reflexively as a doodle, whenever I had a pen in hand,” says Gordon. “Now it’s more intentional. It’s similar to songwriting in that you are always sort of circling the same

territory and trying to go a little deeper to get to the really good version of the same thing you’ve been doing your whole life.”

Outside in the garden, they built a pool with a flagstone deck and a firepit, and added to the gorgeous, meandering walkways with an assist from landscape architect Yvonne Chin. Russo has a state-of-the-art studio with a dropdown screen to work in. Their two teenage children have plenty of space to spread out and the freedom to visit friends and explore around town. And Shapiro has a standing invitation to occupy the guesthouse whenever she wants to visit. The best part, according to Gordon, is that the house makes it easy to do absolutely nothing but enjoy the sun-dappled deck and the cool ocean breezes.

“What I love is that the house doesn’t take itself too seriously,” says Gordon. “My most prized possession in the house is the George Harrison needlepoint pillow that my sister-in-law made for me. I feel like the whole house has taken shape around that pillow.”

A replica of an antique wooden circus caravan is a teen hangout and an extra guest room in a pinch. The textiles are from Petit Pan, Paris.

The pool and small patio take advantage of a sunny spot in the garden. The metal settee and chairs are by Scandinavian Designs. The pink table is from Skargaarden.

Colorful Roche Bobois modular pieces share space with ’20s-era wooden flip chairs, an electric piano by Roland Kiyola, and Gordon’s prized George Harrison needlepoint pillow.

Their daughter, Ivy, visits with pups Winnie and Zsu Zsu.

The periwinkle chair is a 19thcentury Swedish antique. The striped rug is by Pappelina.

“There’s just something about the quality of the light and the clarity of the natural colors that is truly magical,” says Gordon.

Painted white floors reflect light and make the small house feel more open and airy.

The yellow painted dining chairs and oak table in the kitchen are from Nickey Kehoe.

An early 20th century Swedish pine side table sits next to a Scandinavian Designs bed. The framed sketch of Zsu Zsu is by Nina’s brother, Jim Shapiro.

The exterior of the house is original, and dates to the 19th century.

A seasonal creek runs through the back of the lot, which is studded with mature oak trees, rose bushes, native plants and flowers.

THE LIFE

AQUATIC

This lakefront Arizona retreat built for an adrenaline-loving couple is a water ski haven, a desert playground, and an homage to Bauhaus design—all wrapped up in an elegantly weatherproof package.

Story by CHRISTINE LENNON

Sunset Page 31

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

WHEN

Cavin Costello made his first hour-long trek from Phoenix to see the remote lot where his potential new clients, D.C. and Liz Wright, wanted to build a waterfront home, he suspected he might be the victim of an elaborate prank.

“I didn’t believe it was real at first,” says Costello, who is half of the husband-and-wife team at The Ranch Mine architecture firm. Costello and his wife, Claire, have been building in Arizona for 12 years. And before they started their joint practice, the couple spent seven months driving around the state to familiarize themselves with the geography and the “pioneer spirit” that informs Arizonans’ decision to live in such an extreme climate, often in remote locales. The Costellos had never heard of a

water-ski-centric lake community in that part of the state. What Cavin saw when he arrived was less than encouraging.

“Sure enough, it exists,” he says. “But there was nothing but a creaky old gate. The lots were barren dirt and gravel. The docks that were built on the water were all rotten. There were tumbleweeds. The developer started building in 2006 or 2007 and just left it vacant for years. Then I hear this hum in the distance, and I see a single guy on a speedboat coming toward me. He was a builder, and he introduced himself to me. He ended up building the boat house for us. It was a very surreal day.”

This inauspicious beginning clearly led to a productive partnership, as these photos of the modernist

waterfront home they created together can attest.

“The Wrights saw that the property had a lot of potential. There’s a mountain range to the west with incredible sunsets. It’s very quiet and the lake is like an oasis,” Costello says. “Now, quite a few of the lots are being developed. They took a chance, and it worked.”

The design brief the Wrights presented Ranch Mine was concise, but not simple. They spend their winters and summers in Park City, Utah, where Liz works as a mountain bike instructor and professional snow skier. In the warmer months, she’s a competitive slalom water skier. D.C. is a design professional who works in the tech industry with a flexible workfrom-home lifestyle. They were

A littleknown waterski lake in remote Arizona is the site of this adventure-loving couple’s shoulder-season vacation home.

During construction, the owners lived in the well-equipped boathouse, which has a small kitchen and a bedroom.

looking for a low-maintenance, design-forward home with access to a water ski lake where they could spend the mild shoulder seasons. That search led them to exactly the middle of nowhere, to this vacant lot, and to Costello, who was unfazed by the challenge.

“Liz and D.C. are both design-savvy. Early on they were talking about Bauhaus style and Mies van der Rohe, that kind of stuff,” says Costello. The question was: How do you take high modernist style and adapt it to these extreme conditions? “The house had to be able to handle 120-degree days, high winds, and sandstorms. We had to think how we could take that glassand-steel Bauhaus inspiration and make it work.”

It was Costello’s idea to begin the

project by creating a long, slightly raised walkway from the street down to the lake, creating a pathway that didn’t disturb the desert floor or require a tremendous amount of hardscaping. Then, for practical reasons, the first part of the site and building plan that was finalized and constructed was the 170-square-foot boathouse.

“We’re 70 miles from the Phoenix airport. The closest store is several miles away. It’s not a convenient place,” says Wright. “I needed somewhere to stay on the property so I could supervise the construction. So Cavin designed the whole project up front, but we built the boat house quickly with a bunk house, a kitchen, and a bar, and used that as our residence whenever we came to town.

The design is perfect. It’s got everything you need and nothing more. I would set up my computer on the kitchen table and enjoy the perfect view of the water every day.”

The general layout of the house was inspired by another one of the Wright’s design heroes, Cliff May. Costello borrowed from May’s famous courtyard design concept to create an interior oasis that’s protected from the wind. The Wrights and their frequent house guests can enjoy a sunny day by the pool, grill over an open fire in the Argentine parrilla, and barely notice the 30-mile-per-hour winds gusting outside the house. Another key element that desert-proofs the Wrights’ home is the thick margin of shade that surrounds it.

“We created a massive roof,” says

A fully custom kitchen, with an extra-long island and views of the lake, is streamlined, easy-to-clean, and built for a crowd.

Built-in bunks in one of the two guest rooms (the other functions as a yoga room) easily accommodate a visiting family of four.

The home is built around a central courtyard to create an outdoor oasis that’s protected from desert winds.

Costello. “Only about 40 percent of the area under the roof is livable space. The rest of it is shaded walkways and overhangs. It’s like putting a big tent over the whole thing to keep the heat away from the interior of the house.”

Hardy materials like steel that’s been left to rust, aluminum, concrete, stucco, and thick glass make up the simple palette that can withstand the climate. There are swales to collect rainwater, a well for potable water, and solar panels to capture enough energy to power the house and sell the excess back to the grid.

“Liz said when we started the project that she wanted to be able to clean it with a leaf blower, or hose it down,” D.C. laughs. “It had to be lock-and-go, very low-maintenance.”

With minimal furnishings, poured

concrete flooring, and plentiful builtin storage, it’s easy to keep the mess at bay. And to lock the door and leave, worry-free, when they decamp to Utah.

The real draw of the property is its relationship with the landscape. There are three conversation areas around firepits on the property, which are prime spots for world-class stargazing and sunsets. Then there’s all of that open land.

“The lot is only one acre, but everything to the west of the development is state land,” says Costello. “We created a garage to house the fun stuff for them. There’s a jeep, motorbikes, and bikes, everything you can imagine that you can go out and explore the desert on. They can go for hours without hitting any civilization.”

That remoteness might be intimidating to many homeowners—and builders—but Costello and the Wrights were perfectly in step throughout the process. Costello appreciated how well the Wrights knew themselves, and how fully realized the ideas for their dream house were.

“They knew just what they liked,” he says. “Those people are rare, and it’s so fun when we get to work with them. When someone bares their soul and expresses exactly what they love, we can build something really interesting for them. There’s so much sameness here with homes and neighborhoods. We’re losing a lot of uniqueness and identity that way. Our goal is to enable people who have this kind of spirit and create special spaces for them.”

Long, wooden walkways connect the main house to the street, the boathouse, and outdoor gathering areas.

All-weather Adirondack chairs surround a firepit in one of several conversation areas on the rustic property.

Every three months, you’ll get a box full of home, design, food, and gardening products curated by Sunset editors to help you make the most of every season.

You can choose the box that fits your style and price point, then get ready to be surprised and delighted by what you find inside!

Our next box is themed around fall food and cooking: think kitchen gear and other goodies for a delicious autumn.

FOOD & DRINK

Ultimate Summer Salads

These hearty recipes from Jeanne Kelley’s Vegetarian Salad for Dinner can help make the fantasy of a healthy onedish-dinner a reality.

Grilled Sweet Potatoes, Kale, Garlicky Yogurt, and Puffed Buckwheat

Buckwheat groats can be “popped,” transforming them into a crunchy and nutritious addition to salads. This recipe has a few convenient do-aheads, making it great for weeknight menu planning. Russian kale is excellent for grilling, as the leaves are flat and the edges don’t curl from the grill to the fire, but as it’s less common, any kale will do—just take extra care to avoid charcoal edges.

SERVES 4

2 lbs. dark-fleshed sweet potatoes (about 4 thin)

Salt

6 Tbsp. roasted buckwheat groats (kasha)

2 lbs. kale, preferably Russian kale (about 2 bunches)

Extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

½ cup yogurt

1 garlic clove, grated or minced

Aleppo pepper

ecades before Sweetgreen supersized the concept of the salad bar, California was the spiritual home of the entrée salad: the green goddess, the Cobb, and the goat cheese salad were all invented here. And it’s here that author and food stylist Jeanne Kelley in recent years has championed the idea of salad for dinner. Her now 11-year-old book called, yes, Salad for Dinner is filled with recipes like Indonesian chicken salad with pineapple slaw and salmon with quinoa, sorrel, and yogurt, each one hearty enough to be a complete meal. The book remains a classic of the genre, and her follow-up, Vegetarian Salad for Dinner: Inventive Plant-Forward Meals, takes her exploration of main-course salads into purely meat-free and wholly delicious and satisfying territory. The dozens of recipes in the book could easily comprise a year’s worth of delightful, seasonal, plant-based eating that would also happen to be extremely healthy. You’ll find entirely fresh takes as well as spins on California classics. Here we share a few salads from the book that we’re pretty sure will find their way into regular rotation in your home this summer.

1. Cook the sweet potatoes in a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water until almost tender when pierced with a thin, sharp knife, about 15 minutes. Drain and cool completely.

2. Set a large bowl next to the stove. Heat a heavy large skillet over high heat. Pour about 2 Tbsp. of the groats into the skillet and stir continuously until they puff or pop, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Immediately transfer the puffed groats to the bowl. Repeat the process two more times until all the groats are puffed. (The sweet potatoes and buckwheat can be prepared up to 2 days ahead. Refrigerate the sweet potatoes; cover and seal the buckwheat in an airtight container and store at room temperature.)

3. Heat a grill to medium. Working in batches, arrange the kale leaves in a single layer on the grill and cook until just wilted, 30 seconds to 1 minute.

Turn the kale and cook until the leaves are tender and very lightly charred at the edges, 30 seconds to 1 minute longer. (Some of the leaves may not need turning, depending on the heat of the grill.) Transfer the kale to a large platter. Maintain the grill temperature.

4. Using a sharp knife, cut the sweet potatoes lengthwise into quarters. Brush the sweet potatoes with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the sweet potatoes until browned on all sides, turning occasionally, about 10 minutes.

5. In a small bowl, combine yogurt, garlic, a drizzle of olive oil, and a pinch of salt, and stir to combine.

6. Arrange the kale and the sweet potatoes on a platter or serving plates and top with a generous drizzling of garlicky yogurt. Sprinkle with the puffed buckwheat and Aleppo pepper and serve.

Chinese No-Chicken Salad

The ever-popular Chinese chicken salad is not Chinese. Wolfgang Puck created it for his Chinois restaurant in Santa Monica in the ’70s. This is my veggie version. Deep-frying rice noodles makes them puffy, and they add delicious crunch to the salad.

SERVES 4

DRESSING

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. rice vinegar

¼ cup soy sauce or tamari

1 3 cup peanut oil, untoasted (light) sesame oil, or other neutral oil

3 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil

2 Tbsp. honey or agave nectar

2 tsp. mustard powder

1 garlic clove, grated or pressed with a garlic press

½ tsp. tangerine zest

SALAD

6 cups napa cabbage (about 1 small head), cut crosswise into ¼-inchthick slices

6 cups mixed greens, such as tatsoi, mizuna, and baby bok choy

6 small tangerines, peeled and separated into sections, or 3 oranges, peeled, halved, and thinly sliced

5 oz. sugar snap or snow peas, thinly sliced on a diagonal (about 1 1 3 cups)

1 cup frozen shelled edamame, thawed

1 cup chopped celery

4 green onions, thinly sliced

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Peanut oil or other neutral oil, for frying

2 oz. rice stick noodles (mai fun), broken into 2-to-3-inch pieces

1 cup slivered almonds, toasted

¼ cup toasted sesame seeds, plus additional for sprinkling

Cilantro sprigs

1. For the dressing: Whisk together all the ingredients to blend in a small bowl. (The salad dressing can be prepared up to 2 days ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

2. For the salad: Combine the cabbage, mixed greens, tangerines,

peas, edamame, celery, green onions, and cilantro in a very large bowl. (The salad can be prepared to this point up to 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

3. Heat 1 inch of peanut oil in a heavy medium skillet over high heat until almost smoking. Add one-quarter of the noodles to the hot oil and fry until the noodles puff, about 10 seconds. Using tongs, carefully turn the noodles in the pan over, if necessary,

to fry on the other side. Transfer the fried noodles to a paper-towel-lined pan to drain. Repeat with the remaining noodles in three batches.

4. Add the noodles, almonds, and sesame seeds to the bowl with the salad. Whisk the dressing to blend and pour it over the salad. Toss the salad with the dressing to coat. Divide the salad among plates and sprinkle with additional sesame seeds. Garnish with cilantro sprigs and serve.

Warm Brussels Sprout Caesar with Poached Egg

DRESSING

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 large garlic clove, peeled

A vegetarian variation of the classic salad dressing gets tossed with thinly sliced and lightly sautéed Brussels sprouts in this wonderful fall salad inspired by Los Angeles chef Josef Centeno. Instead of adding the traditional coddled egg to the dressing, the salad

is topped with a perfectly poached egg. Enjoy the salad with a glass of chilled Chenin Blanc—the hints of apple and pear will pair nicely with the funky Brussels sprouts, and the wine’s high acidity will balance the richness of the egg and Parmesan. 2 SERVINGS

1 slightly rounded tsp. Dijon mustard

1 tsp. soy sauce or tamari

½ tsp. lemon zest

1 Tbsp. capers

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

SALAD

1 lb. Brussels sprouts

1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar

2 eggs

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup coarsely grated Parmesan cheese

Freshly cracked black pepper

1. For the dressing: Combine the oil, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, soy sauce or tamari, and lemon zest in a blender and blend until the garlic is finely minced. Add the capers and pulse until the capers are chopped. Season the dressing with salt and pepper. (The dressing can be prepared up to 2 days ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

2. For the salad: Trim the Brussels sprouts and cut them in half from the top to the stem end. Cut the halved sprouts crosswise into thin slices. (The Brussels sprouts can be prepared up to 2 days ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

3. Bring a medium skillet of water to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Add the vinegar to the water. Working with one egg at a time, crack an egg into a small bowl and gently

slide the egg into the simmering water in the skillet. Cook, gently pushing simmering water over the tops of the eggs, until the whites are cooked through but the yolks are not set, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer the eggs to a plate; keep warm.

4. Heat the oil in a heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and cook until just heated through and beginning to wilt, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat, add dressing to taste, and toss well. Divide the salad between two shallow bowls and sprinkle with the cheese. Top with the eggs and season with pepper.

Italian Chopped Salad

This colorful and bursting-with-flavor salad will easily sway fans of the classic salami, cheese, and head-lettuce mix served at your local red-sauce spot. Lots of satisfying crunch comes from cabbage and fennel, while the chopped lemon, inspired by a memorable sandwich eaten in Sicily, adds unexpected zest. The taste and texture combo of salty, chewy lupini beans and fiery, fermented Calabrian chilies will trick your brain into thinking that you’re munching on Calabrese salami. Look for jars of lupini beans and Calabrian chilies at well-stocked Italian delis, or purchase them online.

1 14-to-16-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed and drained

4 cups chopped romaine lettuce (about 1 heart)

1 large fennel bulb, trimmed and chopped (about 2 cups)

2 cups chopped red cabbage (about ¼ medium head)

1 yellow bell pepper, chopped

1 small hothouse or 2 Persian or pickling cucumbers, diced

1½ cups halved cherry tomatoes or diced heirloom tomatoes

2 3 cup chopped pitted Italian green olives, such as Cerignola or Castelvetrano

½ cup chopped red onion

½ cup ready-to-eat lupini beans, peeled and rinsed

½ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

1 small lemon

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

4 jarred Calabrian chilies, stemmed and minced (about 1 generous Tbsp.)

2 garlic cloves, finely grated or pressed with a garlic press

½ cup coarsely grated

Parmesan cheese

½ cup coarsely grated

Fontina, mozzarella, or other mild white cheese

Freshly cracked black pepper

1 Tbsp. fresh oregano leaves (optional)

1. For the salad: Combine the chickpeas, lettuce, fennel, cabbage, bell pepper, cucumber, tomatoes, olives, onions, beans, parsley, and basil in a large bowl. Trim the ends from the lemon and discard. Cut the lemon in half lengthwise. Thinly slice the lemon and remove the seeds. Chop the lemon slices into small pieces, being careful not to lose the juice. Add the lemon pieces to the bowl. (The salad can be prepared up to 6 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate )

2. Whisk together the oil, vinegar, chilies, and garlic in a small bowl for the dressing. Add the dressing and cheeses to the salad, season generously with black pepper, and toss well. Divide the salad among dishes. Garnish with the oregano, if desired, and serve.

© THE INGALLS

Arugula Cacio e Pepe Pizza

Cacio e pepe is a traditional Roman pasta dish. The “sauce” is made by emulsifying generous amounts of grated pecorino into pasta cooking liquid and seasoning the results with a hefty amount of freshly cracked black pepper. The results are boldly satisfying for just a few ingredients. The Roman flavor combo translates well to other foods like salads, breads, and especially pizza.

Cacio e pepe pizza is credited to chef Stefano Callegari, who came up with the technique of putting ice on the pizza dough to keep it moist and chewy in the center. My rendition riffs on his creation—with a fresh topping of cacio e pepe–seasoned arugula. The pizza

PIZZA DOUGH

1 tsp. active dry yeast

2 cups room-temperature water

4¾ cups (641 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 Tbsp. brown sugar

1½ tsp. salt

½ tsp. orange zest (optional)

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling and brushing

Semolina or rice flour, for dusting (if using a pizza oven)

8 Tbsp. crushed or broken ice

1¼ cups finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Freshly cracked black pepper

8 cups arugula

1. Sprinkle the yeast over the water in a 2-cup measuring cup and let stand until the yeast dissolves, about 5 minutes.

2. Fit a heavy-duty mixer with the dough hook. Combine the flour, brown sugar, and salt in the mixer bowl and stir to blend. If using the orange zest, stir it into the yeast mixture. With the mixer running, gradually pour in the yeast mixture. Continue mixing, stopping the machine once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl, until the flour and liquid are blended. Increase the speed to high and knead with the hook until a very smooth and sticky dough forms, about 7 minutes. (Yes, 7 minutes!)

3. Drizzle a 9-by-13-inch baking dish

dough recipe is my own, developed after years of trying various techniques. The dough comes together easily but needs resting time for the best flavor and texture. It should be started two to six days ahead.

I use all-purpose flour, not fancy Italian ‘00’ flour, because I like the flavor of the less-refined flour. The addition of orange zest comes from a pizzaiolo who told me the hint of sweet citrus was a secret ingredient in Nancy Silverton’s Mozza pizza dough. Perhaps he was pulling my leg, but no matter—it’s delicious and a nod to my home state, California.

generously with enough oil to coat the bottom of the dish. Using a silicone spatula, transfer the dough to the prepared dish (the dough will be wet). Fold the dough into thirds, like a business letter. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or for up to 2 days, repeating the folding once or twice a day.

4. Brush four 2-cup-capacity food jars or storage containers with oil. Using a bench knife, large cleaver, or chef’s knife, cut the cold dough into 4 even pieces (about 9 oz. each). On a lightly oiled surface, shape each piece into a round. Transfer one dough piece to each jar and seal. Refrigerate the dough overnight or for up to 4 days.

5. Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 500°F.

6. Fill a shallow bowl with flour. Dust two heavy large sheet pans lightly with flour. Working with one dough piece at a time, dip the dough round into the bowl of flour to lightly coat.

Holding the dough at the top edges with both hands (like a steering wheel), carefully stretch the dough into a 9-to-10-inch round by rotating it and keeping your hands in the same position. Transfer the round to the prepared pan. Repeat with another piece of dough and pan. Brush the pizzas lightly with oil. Scatter 2 Tbsp. of the ice over the center of each pizza. Bake until the pizzas are golden brown, 10–12 minutes, alternating the baking position about halfway through baking. Immediately sprinkle ¼ cup cheese over each pizza. Season the pizzas very generously with pepper and drizzle with oil. Toss the arugula with enough olive oil to coat and the remaining ¼ cup cheese. Top the pizzas with half the arugula and serve. Repeat with the remaining pizzas and arugula.

MAKES 4 SMALL PIZZAS

BUT EVE RY TH I NG

TH E G R I LL

BRICIA LOPEZ IS THE REIGNING QUEEN OF NEO-ANGELENO MEXICAN GRILLING. HERE SHE SHOWS US HOW TO MAKE STELLAR SIMPLE SIDES FROM HER NEW BOOK, ASADA.

Bricia Lopez is a culinary force in Los Angeles: As a co-owner of the James Beard Award–winning Oaxacan restaurant Guelaguetza, she helped turn its mezcal-and-tequila program into one of the best in a city known for its love of agave-based spirits. She runs I Love Micheladas, a micheladamix company that hawks its drinks out of a lime-green vintage VW microbus outfitted with beer taps. And she’s the author of two cookbooks, Oaxaca: Home Cooking From the Heart of Mexico and now Asada: the Art of Mexican-style Grilling. Here Lopez shares the techniques, tools, and recipes for the meat, the sides, the drinks, and above all the magic of the art of grilling Angeleno-Mexican style. Co-written with Javier Cabral, editor of the excellent taco-focused website LAtaco.com, it’s a delicious survey of the celebratory Mexican food that embodies summer in L.A. Yes, there’s sizzling carne asada, as well as marinated meat and fish and bracing salsas and sides. In this excerpt, we focus on the latter, as grill masters from every tradition know that a truly great cookout is as much about the side dishes as it is the meat. They’re the unsung heroes that give the meal peaks and valleys of texture and flavor, playing counterpoint to the smoky meats, resetting the palate for another bite, and satisfying the non-meat-eaters. On the following pages, you’ll find a minimalist taco that’s all about perfect ingredients, a fruit salad that pays homage to street cart operators, and a cactus salad we’ll be putting on regular rotation at our parties all summer long.

From Previous Page

Frutero Salad

Driving or walking around Los Angeles, you will notice fruit vendors who set up shop in corners around every neighborhood of the city. They are entrepreneurs who are always there to provide cold, sliced fresh fruit that is dependably ripe on a hot day. Some people call them Mexican fruit vendors, but I genuinely dislike the description. I do love how they dress their ripe fruit: lime juice, salt, and chile powder. I go to one who posts up on the corner of Figureoa and Avenue 57 in Highland Park. The recipe is a street-style fruit salad and an easy spread to have ready for guests. I like to serve the fruit in recyclable cups, so each guest can claim their own. Bottles of chile lime seasoning are usually found near the fruit section at your local Mexican supermarket. The most popular brand name is Tajín.

SERVES 8

1 medium jicama, quartered and peeled

1 small seedless watermelon, quartered and peeled

1 small pineapple, peeled, quartered, and cored

2 semi-ripe mangoes, peeled, halved, and pitted

7 Persian cucumbers, peels on Juice of 2 key limes

Flaky sea salt

Chile-lime salt

¼ cup chamoy sauce

Cut the jicama, watermelon, pineapple, mangoes, into uniform spears, about 1 inch thick by 4 inches long. Slice the cucumber into ½-inch thick rounds. Toss the fruit in a large bowl with the key lime juice. Distribute an even amount of fruit in eight 6-ounce cups, so guests can sip the juice after the fruit is gone. Finish each with a generous sprinkle of sea salt flakes, chile-lime salt, and chamoy.

Taco Encuerado

This taco gets its provocative name because it is just a simple grilled chile, stuffed with cheese—“naked” on a charred tortilla. That’s it. No salsa is necessary, just a sprinkling of salt.

SERVES 6

6 fresh Hatch chiles (can substitute Anaheim chiles)

10 oz. queso Oaxaca

12 fresh epazote leaves

6 warm flour tortillas (preferably homemade; recipe on next page)

Finishing salt

1. Start a charcoal or gas grill. The gas should be set to medium. If using a pellet grill, preheat your grill to 375°F for at least 15 minutes. If using charcoal, the coals should be red but entirely covered with gray ash.

2. Place the chiles directly on the grill. Cook until the skin is completely charred and the flesh is somewhat soft, 5–7 minutes. Turn the chiles every 2–3 minutes for even cooking.

3. Once the chiles are charred, put them in a medium bowl and cover with a large plate for a few minutes to soften and steam. This will make peeling the burnt skin off easier. When cool enough to handle, remove most of the skin with your fingers.

4. Cut a small slit in each chile, about 3 inches long, starting at the stem end. Remove the seeds carefully, so as not to break the chiles. Stuff each chile with the cheese and epazote, dividing the ingredients evenly.

5. Put the chiles directly on the grill again. Close the lid and allow the cheese to melt, undisturbed, for 3–5 minutes.

6. Serve on top of warm flour tortillas. Sprinkle with finishing salt.

For more excellent recipes, pick up a copy of Asada: The Art of Mexican-Style Grilling $40, ABRAMSBOOKS.COM

Avocado Oil Flour Tortillas

Flour tortillas are an art, and the more you make them, the better your tortillas will get. There is something extremely satisfying about making your own from scratch, unlike many of the packaged flour tortillas out there. This one— inspired by Caramelo tortillería in Lawrence, Kansas—only takes three ingredients.

MAKES 8 TORTILLAS

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 tsp. sea salt 1/4 cup olive oil

1. In a large bowl, stir together the flour and salt with a fork to combine. Pour in the oil and ¾ cup water and stir with a rubber spatula to incorporate. Allow the dough to rest 5 minutes and then knead it until smooth. Divide the dough into 8 pieces and roll each piece into a ball. Place the balls in a wellfloured bowl and cover them with a kitchen towel to rest about 30 minutes before shaping the tortillas.

2. On a well-floured surface, roll each ball of dough into a 10-inch disc using a rolling pin.

3. Preheat a large castiron pan over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, place a tortilla on the pan and cook it 30–45 seconds, or until small bubbles start to form. Flip it over with your hands or a spatula and cook another 30–45 seconds. Remove from the pan and place it in a tortilla warmer or wrap in a kitchen towel. Repeat with the remaining dough. Serve immediately.

Ensalada de Nopalitos

A carne asada is a very salad-friendly affair. All the piles of grilled meat beg for some crisp vegetables to eat them with. If you are only going to offer one salad, this is the one to make. Instead of boiling or grilling nopales, they are cured in salt, which maintains the limelike tartness that these cacti offer and their vibrant green color as well. SERVES 4

8 cactus paddles (nopalitos), about 1¾ lbs.; purchase ones with thorns already removed

2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. sea salt

1 Tbsp. olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 guajillo chile, stems and seeds removed, cut into thin rings

1 chile de árbol, stems and seeds removed

1½ tsp. dried Mexican oregano

1 dash ground cumin

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp. pineapple vinegar (can substitute citrus vinegar)

1. Slice the nopales into ½-inch squares; you should have about 4 cups. In a bowl, toss the nopales with 2 Tbsp. of the salt. Allow them to rest until the nopales have softened and released all their slime, about 30 minutes. Rinse well under cold water.

2. Heat the olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. When hot, add the garlic, chiles, 2 cups of the cured nopales, the oregano, cumin, pepper, and remaining 1 tsp. salt. Cook and stir well for 5 minutes. Add the vinegar, stir for 1 more minute, and remove from the heat.

3. Toss in the remaining 2 cups cured nopales and serve in a large bowl.

PORTLAND’S PHUKET CAFE IS A MASTER CLASS IN MODERN WEST COAST THAI.

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

Story by KRISTA SIMMONS

he aroma of rambutan-wood charcoal envelops you the moment you walk into Phuket Cafe. It’s a sensory experience that’s immediately evocative of Thailand’s night markets, but one look at the crowd and you’re definitely in Portland. Green neon lights up the bar like the inside of a tuk tuk, and tattooed, puffer-clad diners clink Fernet and Thai-tea-spiked cocktails reminiscent of the iconic Spanish coffees at Huber’s. Thai funk undulates on the sound system, and a convivial banter hums, underscoring the restaurant’s unique conversation between East and West.

It’s this sort of playful swagger that owners Akkapong “Earl” Ninsom and Eric Nelson have become known for

around these parts of the PNW: a living, breathing dialogue with what’s happening in the next generation of kitchens in Thailand. Short of booking a ticket to Bangkok, this is the closest you can get to the country’s pulsing dining scene. It’s a delicious, thrilling, immersive experience that transports you to what’s actually happening in Southeast Asia. Think of it as a postcard from the team’s travels, exploring spots where chefs and locals who live there eat when they’re off the clock.

It’s a welcome foil to the idea that Thai food has been relatively fixed in the minds of diners who haven’t ventured from the greatest hits served at your standard corner takeout spot. Phuket Cafe is different. Really, really different. Sure, you’ll find a smattering of curries that you know and love. And dishes addictively fire on all cylinders, playing with every element of your sensory perception. But instead of finding a menu riddled with classics like phad thai, you’ll instead find Penang curry that’s made with 21-day dry-aged steak, locally grown delicata squash, and Swiss chard. And your roti—a Muslim flatbread often sold in street food stalls throughout Southern Thailand—will be made with beets, and topped with cured salmon roe and coconut crème fraîche, a nod to Portland’s robust Russian community. Or Thai paella made with tom yum rice and wood-fired seafood, a tribute to the acclaimed Spanish restaurant Ataula that was housed here before.

“The idea was to do [a concept based on] a tourist city in Thailand. You go to Bangkok and the South to experience vacation,” says Ninsom. “Both cities have interesting, creative food scenes with chefs from around the world cooking there. And the grill section, the live fire, is really important.”

Ninsom is no newcomer to the Portland scene. He started out over 10 years ago slinging simple Thai noodles at Mee-Sen, and has since grown an empire that includes seven restaurants whose themes range from Texas-Thai barbecue mashup at Eem and fried chicken at Hat Yai to a

fine-dining experience at Langbaan, which is now housed at a chef’s counter inside the dining room at Phuket Cafe. The menu they’ve created for the latter is everything you want to eat when you’re in Portland—comforting, cozy, and definitively punk rock.

“Until recently, most Thai restaurants have operated in a certain style, but when you travel there you see a variety of cuisine from each community and area that’s so different,” he says. “ We really get to know the cities outside of the famous spots.”

In Bangkok, like any great city, there’s so much more going on than what meets the eye. And Phuket Cafe is a brilliant snapshot of that. Everything from the lighting to the vintage glassware is a full-blown mood that brings diners into the back bars in Bangkok, away from the buckets of Mekhong whiskey on Khaosan Road,

and into the neighborhoods and communities that are the fabric of the city. It’s all the result of a lifetime of travel back and forth to Ninsom’s family’s motherland along with exhaustive R&D trips that sometimes included eating upwards of 10 meals a day.

“I don’t consider it fusion. It’s more of a classic mix of cultures,” says Ninsom. “It really makes us feel good that people could experience that without traveling to Thailand. Not everyone has a chance to do that, you know. And even if you do, you might not be able to get to see this type of cuisine.”

That flows right down to both the interior and exterior design. The greenery-filled dining room is a plant daddy’s dream. The team worked with women-led designers called Each Other to create an outdoor dining area that resembles a vintage Thai train car, complete with luggage racks and a sixperson wooden booth at the caboose.

“The train is the most common way to get around in Thailand, and the most affordable. It’s the best way to get around to see the country, going through the rice fields, seeing the ocean—it’s a fun way of travel,” he says. “It’s open air, the windows are down. It’s a fun vibe that we wanted to have in the restaurant.” And it’s a welcome one. We could all use a vacation. Here are some signature Phuket dishes that will instantly transport you there.

Thai Paella

We’ll be the first to admit that culinary mashups can be a bit sus, but this hybrid of tom yum soup and Thai fried rice completely counters that. Punched up with lemongrass, makrut lime leaves, and galangal, it’s then finished in a paella pan to give it the perfect crispy bottom. Pro tip: If you don’t have a traditional Spanish paella pan, any ceramic pot similar to a bibimbap bowl will do. SERVES 2

FOR THE SAUCE

½ cup Pantai brand chili jam

1 Tbsp. fish sauce

2 Tbsp. tamarind juice

FOR THE FRIED RICE

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

2 Tbsp. lemongrass, sliced

1 Tbsp. galangal, thinly sliced

4 makrut lime leaves

½ cup red onion, sliced

2 cups jasmine rice, cooked and refrigerated overnight

½ lb. Manila clams

6 mussels

1 Tbsp. scallions, thinly sliced

1 Tbsp. sawtooth coriander, roughly chopped

1 lime, quartered

Make the sauce. Whisk sauce ingredients together in a mixing bowl until combined. Divide into two bowls and reserve.

Make the fried rice. In a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat, add 1 Tbsp. oil. Stirfry lemongrass, galangal, lime leaf, and red onion until golden brown, 1–2 minutes. Then add the first half of the sauce to the pan and stir. Add rice, and mix thoroughly.

Crisp up the rice in a paella pan. Transfer the fried rice into a paella pan. Adjust heat to medium low, and cook until rice at the bottom starts to crisp.

Stir fry the seafood. Add remaining oil to a wok over high heat, and stir-fry clams and mussels. Add ¼ cup water, then close the lid to to steam the seafood, appoximately 5 minutes. Add the other half of the sauce to the wok, and stir until all seafood is coated.

Bring it together. Transfer the seafood onto the paella pan. Garnish with sliced green onions and sawtooth coriander. Squeeze a slice of lime to finish and serve.

Yellow Curry Prawns

Curry paste is a prime example of the kitchen adage that from scratch is always best. The aromatics are unrivaled when using fresh ingredients, plus using a mortar and pestle is a great way to get out your pent-up frustrations. If you haven’t yet utilized krachai, a pungent medicinal rhizome also known as fingerroot, now is a fantastic time to start. The root, which resembles a hand, can be found in many Asian supermarkets, and of course ordered online.

SERVES 2 AS AN APPETIZER OR 1 AS AN ENTRÉE

FOR THE CURRY PASTE

MAKES APPROXIMATELY 1½ CUPS

2 Tbsp. lemongrass, thinly sliced

1 Tbsp. galangal, thinly sliced

2 Tbsp. turmeric, thinly sliced

1 Tbsp. dried Thai chili

½ cup thinly sliced shallots

2 Tbsp. thinly sliced garlic

½ cup pickled krachai

FOR THE CURRY

4 cups coconut milk

½ cup yellow curry paste

2 Tbsp. vegan fish sauce

1 Tbsp. tamarind juice, plus more to taste

1 Tbsp. palm sugar, plus more to taste

¼ lb. cauliflower florets

4–5 whole prawns, shell removed

1 Tbsp. thinly sliced garlic

4 betel leaves, torn into TKTKT

2 fresh Thai chilies, minced

Salt to taste

1 lime, quartered

Make the curry paste. Put all the ingredients in a mortar and slowly pound with a pestle until they combine into a paste. Store remaining paste in a Mason Jar and refridgerate for up to two weeks.

Make the curry. In a saucepan over medium heat, add coconut milk and paste. Bring to boil, then add fish sauce, tamarind, and palm sugar. Taste the curry, seasoning with more tamarind or palm sugar as needed. Then add cauliflower, prawns, and garlic. Turn off heat, then add torn betel leaves and Thai chilies. Squeeze a slice of lime to finish. Serve in an 8-inch coupe bowl.

Miang Pla (Lettuce Wraps With Whole Fried Pompano)

This showstopping, shareable dish made with pompano—a mild, buttery jackfish—is all the more crave-inducing with the addition of an umami-rich caramel spiked with fish sauce. Cradled in fresh leafy greens, dressed with a citrusy, spicy sauce, and topped with crunchy peanuts and fried shallots, it hits all the flavor notes like great Thai food tends to do.

SERVES 2

FOR THE FISH SAUCE CARAMEL MAKES 3 CUPS

2 cups sugar

½ cup fish sauce

½ cup water

FOR THE FRIED FISH

1 whole pompano, about 1¼ lbs. (branzino and red tilapia are good substitutes)

1 cup rice flour

½ cup water

3 cups vegetable oil

2 Tbsp. lemongrass, thinly sliced

2 Tbsp. diced shallot

2 Tbsp. diced jalapeño

1 Tbsp. diced ginger

1 Tbsp. thinly sliced Thai chili

1 Tbsp. diced lime

2 Tbsp. roasted peanuts

½ cup Fish Sauce Caramel

2 Tbsp. fried shallots

4 pieces Little Gem lettuces

4 betel leaves

Make the Fish Sauce Caramel. In a saucepan, combine sugar and ¼ cup water and bring to a low boil. Stir until sugar is dissolved, then allow to cook undisturbed over low to medium heat until a deep caramel color forms, about 20 minutes. You’ll want the sauce to coat the back of your spoon, but be slightly thinner than a traditional caramel. This is more of a sauce texture. Remove the saucepan from the heat and whisk in the fish sauce and remaining ¼ cup of water. Return to medium heat, and stir until the caramel is dissolved. Pour the sauce into a heatproof bowl and let cool completely. Reserve remaining sauce in a

Mason Jar and refridgerate for up to a week.

Make the fish. Debone and slice the fish into 5 or 6 bite-size pieces per side. Separate the bones and set aside. In a mixing bowl, whisk together rice flour and water until flour dissolves. This will be your fish batter. Fill a deep-fry pot with the oil, and bring to 350°F, keeping this heat consistent throughout the frying process. Dredge the fish in the flour mixture, then drop one piece at a time into the oil, using tongs to keep them separate (so they don’t become one big chunk). Fry for 3

minutes, or until golden brown, then remove. Dredge the fish skeleton in the batter and fry until crispy and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Place fried fish and bones on a paper-towel-lined plate or a draining rack, and set aside.

Dress the fish and plate. In a mixing bowl, toss fried pompano chunks, lemongrass, shallot, jalapeño, ginger, Thai chilies, lime, peanuts, and 6 Tbsp. fish sauce caramel. Put fried bones on a large platter, brush with about 2 Tbsp. fish sauce caramel, and add the fried pompano chunks and herbs. Top with fried shallots and serve with fresh lettuce and betel leaves.

Mai Tai

Having traveled around Thailand, you might be used to seeing Mekhong whiskey relegated to highballs and buckets along Bangkok’s Khaosan Road. And while those years of backpacking may have been fun, it’s even more exciting to see this iconic Thai spirit turned into something as sophisticated (yet still playful) as the perfect mai tai.

1½ oz. Mekhong Thai spirit

½ oz. Cruzan aged rum

½ oz. Wray & Nephew overproof rum

½ oz. Orange Curaçao

¾ oz. BG Reynolds Orgeat

¾ oz. freshly squeezed lime juice

Combine all ingredients in a shaker. Fill with ice. Shake 10–15 seconds. Strain and pour over crushed ice. Garnish with mint sprigs and fresh grated nutmeg.

Get Giuseppe

FOR THE 1:1 SIMPLE SYRUP

1 cup white sugar

1 cup water

Combine in a sauce pot. Heat until sugar dissolves. Store in a squeeze bottle for streamlined use. Will keep for approximately one month.

FOR THE FERNET CREAM

1 cup heavy whipping cream

A Refreshing Blend of Nihilism and Nature

If you’re the kind of person who shudders at the idea of the hair of the dog, this cocktail is for you. There’s something so pleasantly healthy-ish about this freshpressed-juice cocktail, which has the slightest orangebitter twinge from Aperol. It’s exactly what you want to drink, no matter the time of day.

This Thai-tea cocktail is a brilliant play on Portland’s punk rock obsession with Fernet, and a beautiful nod to the iconic Spanish coffees made at Huber’s, a local institution that has been making spiked coffee drinks since 1879. We love a warm drink in this part of the world, and this riff is no exception.

FOR THE COCKTAIL

1½ oz. Hendrick’s gin

3 oz. hot Thai tea

Fernet Cream (see recipe to the right)

FOR THE HOT THAI TEA

3.5 oz. Number One Brand Thai tea

4 cups water

Bring loose tea and water to a boil. Remove from heat and steep for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh strainer, then again through a strainer lined with a coffee filter. Let cool to room temperature and then add 1 cup cold 1:1 simple syrup. Pour the hot Thai tea into a glass, then top with Fernet cream.

½ oz. Fernet Branca

1 oz. simple syrup

Combine all ingredients in a squeeze bottle and shake vigorously just until the cream starts to thicken.

FOR THE BRUNCH JUICE

MAKES 30–35 OZ., ENOUGH FOR ABOUT 6 COCKTAILS

2.5 lbs. carrots, scrubbed and peeled

3 red apples, washed and cored

1 lemon

½-inch knob ginger, peeled ½-inch knob turmeric, peeled ¼ tsp. ground cardamom

FOR THE COCKTAIL

2 oz. Aperol

4 oz. brunch juice

Make the brunch juice. Run all vegetables through an electric juicer. Double-strain through a chinois into a quart deli container. The juice will keep refrigerated for 48 hours.

Make the cocktail. Combine ingredients in a 12 oz. Collins glass. Fill halfway with crushed ice. Stir to incorporate. Add ice to fill. Garnish with mint, or any herbs you may have on hand.

and

Peaks Valley

Story by HUGH GARVEY

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

WITH A FRESH TAKE ON NEW CALIFORNIA COOKING AND A COMEAS-YOU-ARE VINOUS VIBE, VALLEY IS THE KIND OF ALL-DAY RESTAURANT WINE COUNTRY NEEDED.

After several visits to wine country, you eventually learn

you don’t need to go to a vineyard or a winery to have a quintessential wine country experience. In a humble space on Sonoma’s old town square, the restaurant Valley embodies many of the things city dwellers seek when they venture out of their urban enclaves and settle into the rhythms of a place where one of the most romantic versions of agriculture is practiced. Valley is not unlike the valleys that surround it, charming in a dresseddown sort of way, expressing the terroir in wines and food and an ethos that bridges Alice Waters–like farmto-table obsession with seasonal and local ingredients, but bringing in global tweaks and influences that jump borders. Valley is as much a

gathering place for the community as it is a restaurant and excellent bottle shop: There’s a bar out front where folks can order espresso or an orange wine any time of day, or pick up a bottle or two; there’s a come-as-you-are vibe that attracts both folks with their dogs and food-savvy tourists. The food is as good as any you’ll get in the city, all the while avoiding wine country clichés like roast duck and Cabernet-braised this and that; actual winemakers and chefs frequent the place, along with locals on the patio in the shade or perched by little café tables in the sun

out front. The fact that it’s in the center of Sonoma, which has long been the civic heart of the vast county, is what gives it a bit of a pulse—albeit a restful 65 bpm. Town square in Sonoma is the kind of old-timey place that feels like throwback wine country: a shaded park with town hall at the center, a Franciscan mission at one end. Valley slow walks the evolution of the city and surrounding fields forward. It’s a restaurant that’s simultaneously simple and ambitious and above all the kind of place you want to go to again and again.

This sweet spot is the result of the vision of Emma Lipp and Stephanie Reagor, partners in work and in life who met while working together at nearby Scribe Winery. Lipp has a culinary education that explains the Chez Panisse through line of the place: She worked at New York’s seminal Prune on the Lower East Side and as the assistant to David Tanis, longtime executive chef at Chez Panisse. Reagor’s résumé includes other restaurants grounded in a local-produce-first philosophy, such as the Spotted Pig and Marlow & Daughters. Along with partners Tanner Walle and Lauren Feldman, they’ve created something they say is not “the French country Tuscan Pinterest fantasy pastoral countryside sophistication” you’ll see elsewhere in the region. They use ingredients not traditionally associated with wine, like fish sauce and spice, but without ever losing focus of where they are. “This is a wine-focused restaurant,” says Reagor. “We love spicy food, so we’re going to cook it, but we’re not going to blow the wine out of the water with the spice. The emphasis is on freshness and everything working together.” And you’ll experience that in this celebratory late-summer menu that takes full advantage of ingredients that are at their best right now. Like Valley, the dishes embody wine country as it’s evolving in real time, at just the right pace.

Feta With Roasted Peaches

This dish is a great alternative to super-sweet desserts. If you can’t find Turkish Urfa biber, which have a lovely sweet and smoky flavor, substitute red chili flakes. Bonus: The leftover syrup makes the base for the peach cooler!

SERVES 4

4 ripe peaches

1 Tbsp. sugar

1 cup red wine vinegar

1 cup red or white wine

1 dried bay leaf

8 oz. block of feta

Olive oil

Black pepper

½ tsp. ground urfa biber chilies

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. If you are working with freestone peaches, cut in half lengthwise. If your peaches are clingstone, cut as best you can into nice large wedges. Put cut pieces into a baking dish, cut sides up. Sprinkle the peaches with the sugar, then pour the vinegar and wine over. Add the bay leaf to the liquid. Roast peaches in the oven until the fruit is tender, about 20 minutes.

2. Cut the feta into four squares, then place in individual bowls.

3. Place the peach halves or pieces around the feta. Spoon some of the roasting juices over the peach pieces and feta. Drizzle olive oil over the top. Sprinkle with black pepper and Urfa biber and serve.

Zucchini with Basil and Butter

Sweet summer squash needs little more than butter and basil.

SERVES 4

5 lbs. zucchini or summer squash

¼ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Salt

6 garlic cloves

4 sprigs fresh basil, divided

3 Tbsp. cultured butter

Black pepper

1. Cut the zucchini into fat coins, roughly 1 3 -inch thick.

2. Set a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat and add ¼ cup olive oil. Add all the zucchini, a heavy pinch of salt, garlic, and 3 sprigs of basil. Put a lid on the pot and let the zucchini slowly cook, steaming itself out. If you are worried about it drying out and sticking, add a little bit of water. The goal is not to get a lot of color or char, but a little bit is okay. Take care not to stir, as it will start to break.

3. When the zucchini is uniformly tender, take it off the heat. Remove the basil and discard. Add the cultured

butter to the pot and gently stir to integrate it into the soft zucchini. At this point some pieces may fall apart, and that’s okay.

4. Taste. Does it need more salt? There should be enough acid from the cultured butter, but make sure you used enough butter to give it that rich silky bite.

5. To serve, scoop into a bowl, drizzle a little olive oil, sprinkle with black pepper and tear fresh basil sprigs to garnish.

Melon Salad with Pickled Chilies

You can use any melon that’s at peak ripeness, but the salad is prettier and tastier if you use multiple varieties.

SERVES 4

1 cup red wine vinegar

1 cup water

2 Tbsp. sugar

2 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste

¼ cup thinly sliced onions

2 Tbsp. thinly sliced Fresno chiles

6 cups various melons, cut into 1-inch cubes

¼ tsp. ground Marash or Aleppo chilies

2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, plus more to taste

Olive oil

3 Tbsp. chopped fresh mint leaves

1. Pickle the onions and chilies: In a small pan over medium heat, combine vinegar, water, sugar, and salt. Bring to a simmer. Stir until sugar has dissolved. Add onions and Fresno chilies. Remove from heat and let cool.

2. Assemble the salad: Put melon cubes into a large bowl. Sprinkle with salt to taste, ground chilies, and lime juice. Remove Fresnos and onions from the pickling mixture, and add to salad. Add a nice drizzle of olive oil, and toss to combine. Taste and add more lime juice or salt if needed. Add the mint, toss once more lightly, and serve.

“This is a winefocused restaurant. The emphasis is on freshness and everything working together.”

Cod with Tomato Curry and Corn

This party-worthy main course is one of the best uses of peak-season tomato and corn we’ve ever tried. It’s a bit cheffy to make corn broth with leftover corn cobs, but it adds a layer of flavor you can’t get otherwise. If that’s one step too many, feel free to skip! You can make the curry the morning of your party or a day ahead.

SERVES 4

½ tsp. black peppercorns

½ Tbsp. coriander seeds

½ tsp. fenugreek or white

peppercorns

½ tsp. cumin seeds

2 Tbsp. neutral oil

1 large white onion, sliced thinly

1 knob peeled ginger, about 2 oz., chopped

4 garlic cloves, chopped

½ Tbsp. ground turmeric

½ tsp. cinnamon

½ Tbsp. kosher salt

1 Tbsp. tomato paste

1 stick plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1 red jalapeño, sliced thinly

3 lbs. beefsteak tomatoes, chopped

½ cup crème fraîche

4 ears of corn, shucked

Freshly ground black pepper

1½ lb. cod or other thick-fleshed white fish

Olive oil

1. In a large pot over medium heat, combine the black peppercorns, coriander, and fenugreek or white peppercorns, and toast for 30 seconds or until fragrant but not burnt. Grind the spices with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder and set aside.

2. In the same pot over medium heat, add neutral oil and let heat for 1 minute. Add the onion, ginger, and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but not

brown, about 4 minutes. Add the ground toasted spices, plus the turmeric, cinnamon, salt, tomato paste, and the stick of butter and stir. Add the tomatoes and jalapeños.

3. Cook, stirring occasionally, until everything is fully soft, 15–20 minutes. Take off the heat. Stir in the crème fraîche. Let cool a bit, then blend in batches in a blender. Return to pot. Adjust salt if need

ed. Set aside.

4. Char the corn on a grill or in a cast-iron pan. Cut the corn off the cob, set aside, and reserve the cobs.

5. Cover the cobs with 4 cups water in a medium pot. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid through a fine mesh strainer, reserve, then discard the cobs.

6. Return the charred corn kernels to the pot, and cover with the corn broth. Cook until tender. Season with salt, pepper, and remaining 2 Tbsp. butter. Keep warm in pot for dish assembly.

7. For the cod: Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut the cod into four equal pieces. Remove any bones. Set the cod in a parchment-lined baking dish. Sprinkle with salt and a drizzle of olive oil.

8. When you are ready to serve the dish, put in the oven. Roast the cod in the oven until fully cooked and tender, 7–10 minutes. The cod should flake when squeezed, indicating it is fully cooked. You can also check for doneness by inserting a metal skewer into the center or thickest part of the fish. There should be no resistance, and the skewer should be hot to the touch from the fish.

9. To assemble the dish, rewarm the tomato curry. Set the cooked pieces of fish into individual serving bowls. Spoon the corn kernels on top of the fish. Scoop the tomato curry on top of the corn and fish. Drizzle olive oil to finish.

Peach Cooler

Make this super-simple peach drink from the reduced liquid leftover from roasting the fruit for the feta with roasted peaches.

MAKES 4

Roasted peach syrup

Sparkling water

Fresh mint for garnish

Spoon about 1 Tbsp. leftover juices from the roasted peaches into a rocks glass, top with sparkling water, stir, add ice cubes, garnish with a mint sprig, and serve.

TRAVEL & ESCAPES

Women of the Waves

With Making Waves, Lara Einzig has produced a beautiful survey of female surf culture. Here she shares stories of a few of the women who grace the pages of her pioneering book.

Martina Duran, Danielle Black Lyons, and Chelsea Woody, co-founders of Textured Waves

Lara Einzig

Australia

Lara Einzig grew up on the Sunshine Coast of Australia, but it wasn’t until she moved to California that she became a bona fide surfer. The former fashion exec, who worked in marketing for Top Shop in London and as fashion director at Goop, was living in Los Angeles when her sister died by suicide. To help heal her grief, she turned to the water and learned firsthand why so many people immerse themselves in surfing for reasons that run deeper than the thrill of catching a wave. The surrender, the rhythms of nature, wide-open spaces that require us to yield to what is: All those things and more captivated Einzig, and soon what started as a pastime became an obsession. Diving into the culture and the media surrounding it, Einzig saw few women chronicled or celebrated and wanted to change that. The result is the beautiful and inspiring coffee-table book Making Waves: Trailblazing Surfers In and Out of the

Water ($35; Ten Speed Press), which is, as she says, “about real female surfers from around the world who live a life of purpose, are driven by social impact and charging some of the best waves on the planet.” Rather than simply chronicle professionals, which she does quite well, Einzig also included “civilians” who, like her, were drawn to the water looking for something beyond themselves. There are environmentalists, board shapers, activists, and, yes, pros photographed in and out of the water exclusively for the book by nine female surf photographers. The profiles recount each woman’s impact on surfing and in turn surfing’s impact on them. We spoke with Einzig about what it was like to work with a few of the many women from the West who appear in the book.

SERENA LUTTON

Joyce Hoffman

San Juan Capistrano

“Joyce grew up in San Juan Capistrano. Her father, Walter, created the first Hawaiian shirts. She was literally the first female surf superstar. She was the one getting all the endorsements and press and fame. There are so many firsts in her career: first woman to win back-to-back surf championships, first woman

to surf Pipeline, to be inducted into the Hall of Fame, to have a surfboard named after her. She is an absolute badass. She’s an absolute legend. I was lucky enough to watch her statue get unveiled with hundreds of people from the community. She was the first woman featured in the Watermen’s Plaza in Dana Point, and rightly so. She doesn’t take any of it for granted and says surfing gave her everything in her life and that a lot of men helped her along the way. She will tell it like it is. At the photo shoot, I wanted to brush her hair and put a little bit of makeup on her, and she was like, ‘Don’t even go there.’ What captivates me is that it’s not just that she’s surfing in her 70s, it’s that she’s still charging. If she’s coming, watch out. Do not get in her way. And if you do, she will blow you down.”

Kelis and Malia Kaleopa’a

Honolulu

“Kelis and Malia are a mother and daughter who embody the native Waikiki surf life. Waikiki beach is their playground, and they’re there every day. It doesn’t get more Waikiki water family than this. Kelis was

homeschooled and then graduated when she was 16. Her attitude is: Surf all day with my friends, and if I can compete, that’s what I’m going to do. In 2019, at just 15 years old, Kelis became the youngest ever female to take first place in longboarding. She’s legit. Now she has sponsorships from various brands, and both she and her mom are Roxy girls. We shot them over a few days, and they’re so humble. It was very much the beginning of Kelis’s career, still discovering what this whole life was going to be like. They took out one of the big canoes, and we shot her on the north shore. We put them in grass skirts, and they were up for it and it was beautiful. Like they say: Surfing is a dance with the wave, and you let the wave take charge.”

Textured Waves

Hawaii, Santa Cruz, Honolulu

“While coming up with the concept for the book, I started seeing a little bit of press on Textured Waves, and a little bit more popped up on social media. The founders Chelsea Woody,

Danielle Black Lyons, and Martina Duran are all surfers and women of color, and found each other on Instagram. They were all individually searching for the imagery that they were looking for, and the representation wasn’t there. They decided that between the three of them, they could bridge the gap and create more representation and inclusivity. I learned so much from these women. We shot the book during the pandemic, and on an emotional Zoom call they shared about the Middle Passage and the concept of generational trauma and healing and the water. When we went to shoot them with the photographer Anne Menke in Santa Cruz at Pleasure Point, which has the longest point break. We shot at dawn and at night, and it was just beautiful. They came out for the book launch and represented Textured Waves at an event in Malibu. We’ve developed a mutually supportive relationship over time, and I’m grateful that it’s a relationship that will continue.”

SHROOM BOOM

Mushrooms are having a major moment. Here’s how to have your best trip.

Story by KRISTA SIMMONS

Photograph by THOMAS J. STORY

With authors like Michael Pollan and celebrity mycologists like Paul Stamets extolling the benefits of psychedelic fungi and wellness and fashion brands infusing their products with shroom style, all things mushroom are trending. The West has long been the spiritual home of mushroom culture, culinary and otherwise, and is still the best place to partake in the fun of fungi. Hospitality is taking note, with luxe accommodations offering excursions that teach travelers about foraging and the magical world of mycology. And with decriminalization in Oregon, psychedelic retreats are well on their way. For those wanting to keep things closer to home, there are countless books and local groups to explore, plus stylish shroomtastic home goods and wellness products to remind you of the journey. No matter which path you choose, here’s how to make the most of your trip.

SHROOMS WITH A VIEW

HAUTE HOTELS OFFERING FORAGING AND LEARNING EXPERIENCES

THOMPSON HOTEL, SEATTLE

Set your sights on discovery in the Emerald City, where you’ll join executive chef Chris Ingmire and the Truffle Dog Company for a wild truffle-hunting excursion in the Pacific Northwest, followed by a seasonal dinner experience featuring the fruits of your harvest accompanied by Washington wine pairings. The only thing better than the incredible aromas is the smiles the adorable doggos will undoubtedly induce during your time traipsing through the forest.

HOTEL HEALDSBURG, HEALDSBURG

Head to the beautiful Notre Vue Estate & Winery with an expert mushroom forager for a two-hour hands-on hunt, where you’ll discover what trees and terrain to look for, how to identify which mushrooms are edible (and which aren’t), foraging etiquette, and more. Then bring your earthy treasures back to the hotel, where the chef of Dry Creek Kitchen will prepare a special course with your very own mushrooms as part of the four-course degustation. (Don’t worry, if you come up empty-handed, he’ll provide the goods.)

STANFORD INN BY THE SEA, MENDOCINO

Hike into the Mendocino forests in search of wild mushrooms and other edible plants with a shroom specialist. If forager’s luck is on your side, you’ll encounter a few of the over 3,000 species that call these coastal forests home. If nothing else, you’ll learn firsthand about the intricate and interdependent relationships between wild mushrooms and plants, as well as which are edible and which are poisonous. The seasonal walks, which typically begin in November, are dependent on rain, and typically run through March, so late summer is the perfect time to book.

MUST-READ MUSHROOM GUIDE Mushroom Hunting: Forage for Fungi and Connect with the Earth

This delightful field guide written by L.A.-based husband-and-wife team Emily and Gregory Han teaches readers how to identify 15 common types of mushrooms and forage safely, a practice they believe aids in curiosity, mindfulness, and peaceful observation. The book is filled with charming illustrations and mindful reflections on shroom-infused rituals, such as brewing reishi hot cocoa, and it makes a great gift for any enthusiast.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: STANFORD INN BY THE SEA; CHRONICLE BOOKS; HOTEL HEALDSBURG

TELLURIDE MUSHROOM FESTIVAL, COLORADO

Since 1981, this fest has been bringing in the best mycologists to speak on psychedelic research, decriminalization, and how to cultivate your own mushrooms. Expect everything from wild costumes to unique talks and meetings of mycelial friends. The fest’s main event is its colorful parade—a zany, fashionforward celebration of all things mushrooms. TELLURIDEINSTITUTE.ORG/ TELLURIDE-MUSHROOM-FESTIVAL/

FUNGI FESTS

CELEBRATIONS AND FESTIVALS FOR FUN(GI) GUYS AND GALS

OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL, OREGON

Each year during the peak of the Pacific Northwest’s truffle season, experts, speakers, foragers, and chefs gather for foraging excursions with trained truffle dogs, winery dinners, grower workshops, mycology seminars, and more. One of the most charming events is the Joriad North American Truffle Dog Competition, where breeds from Chihuahuas to traditional truffle dogs like Lagotto Romagnolos face off to see who can track truffles best.

OREGONTRUFFLEFESTIVAL.ORG

MENDOCINO MUSHROOM & WINE FESTIVAL, CALIFORNIA

Every November, NorCal’s magical redwoods transform into a mecca for all things mushroom. The area’s most notable locomotive, the Skunk Train, normally reserved for weed tours, is transformed into the mushroom train for the festival, transporting guests to events in the forest, including tastings, dinners, cooking classes, and quirky events like mushroom ice cream tasting. SKUNKTRAIN.COM

SHANNON CHRISTINE PHOTO

BRING THE TRIP HOME

ADORN YOUR ABODE WITH MYCOLOGICAL DELIGHTS

1. SMALLHOLD

The state-of-the-art, communitybased farms at Smallhold sustainably produce a kaleidoscope of delicious mushroom varieties, from oysters to lion’s mane, and their biggest and most advanced hub is just south of downtown Los Angeles, where they compost 100% of spent mushroom substrate. Their mushrooms are available at Ralphs and Sprouts; they also sell dried mushrooms via their site. FROM $8.99, SMALLHOLD.COM

2. PARKS PROJECT

An idea that was sparked while volunteering in the Santa Monica Mountains has since evolved into eye-catching apparel and outdoor gear that gives back to support education, habitat and wildlife restoration, visitor programs, and youth initiatives in our National Parks. Their groovy camp chair makes for a lightweight, easy setup and will give your campsite some serious swag. $85, PARKSPROJECT.US

3. RENUDE

The Chagaccino is an adaptogenic version of a mocha latte, spiked with an effective dose of a functional mushroom called chaga, which is touted as lowering blood sugar and fighting inflammation. The best part is, it tastes great, and gives you a jitter-free morning boost that beats coffee. 10-PACK, $29.99, DRINKRENUDE.COM

4. TERRAIN

You don’t have to make your space look like a college dorm room for the sake of appreciating the magic of mushrooms. This tastefully fantastical pair of teak mushroom chairs are hand-carved and hand-painted –aone-of-a-kind treasure ready to bring life to your home decor. $148, ANTHROPOLOGIE.COM

5. UNCOMMON GOODS

Skip standard storage and stash your clutter in these whimsical woven mushroom baskets. These little enchanted items come with mushroom cap tops, making for sneaky storage, and also make great gifts. If you want to grow your own mushrooms, they also offer log-based grow kits. BASKETS $59–$69, GROW KITS $30, UNCOMMONGOODS.COM

This nonprofit organization of professional and amateur mycologists has over 90 affiliated mycological societies in the United States, Canada, and Mexico. They provide everything from conferences and regional forays to discussion groups and periodic journals. There’s a robust collection of clubs throughout the West, all advocating for protection of natural areas, the sustainable use of mushrooms, and responsible collecting that doesn’t harm fungi or their habitats.

This month: Oceanside, California

The insider: Daniel Castillo, owner and pitmaster of Heritage Barbecue & Beer Co.

Insider SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

What was once a sleepy little beach town is having a major moment, with up-and-coming game changers like Michelin-recognized chef Daniel Castillo calling this San Diego County surf city home. Oceanside has deep ties to SoCal surf culture (it is home to the California Surf Museum, after all), but there’s so much to see beyond the shapers. Here, the acclaimed pitmaster shares some of his favorite craftdriven spots in the area.

Seasonal diversions and secret travel tips from local experts.

roasts on-site,” sourcing beans from around the world. “Do a pour-over with beans fermented with macerated peaches. They do cuppings where you can sample one-ofa-kind, crazy good coffee.”

DO

There’s “no better place to people watch than The Strand,” especially on Sundays. “It gets packed with lowriders cruising, families biking, and people getting their steps in.”

Check out The Jazzy Wishbone, The Pour House or The Moose Lodge to “listen to anything from punk rock to reggae and everything in between. At The Real Surf Shop, you can rent boards for cheap and pick up some witty merch, like shaper Shawn Ambrose’s barrio-famous Tshirt emblazoned with ‘Oceanside, a sunny place for shady people,’ designed by local artist TMACK .” —Krista Simmons

EAT

Wrench & Rodent is an “unpretentious punk rock sushi spot with locally caught seafood—traditional methods with untraditional ingredients. Why this is not in the Michelin guide, I have no idea. Go for the specials menu and get rewarded with dry-aged sashimi, fish ribs, and fish wings! They also have this amazing side concept called Shoots, located inside Bottlecraft , where they do killer poke.” Dija Mara offers “Southeast Asian street food done right. The star here: the vegetables,

coal-roasted and brushed with animal fats. Get the eggplant! Don’t leave without trying some funky natty wines, like a pét-nat paired with chef’s fermented sauces.”

STAY

Oceanside has two new stylish hotels by Hyatt, Mission Pacific and The Seabird , but for some locally owned flavor, stay at The Green Room Hotel , a "hip little motel with a minimalist modern aesthetic” where you’ll find “Palm Springs vibes, but better since we’re by the sea. Walk next door for a free craft brew on us at Heritage Barbecue & Beer Co.” The Brick Hotel

“is rich in history and has seen Oceanside change through the good, the hood, and good again. This hotel leans towards more luxe with a swanky rooftop bar. Frankie’s is adjacent—a great,

unpretentious local craft cocktail bar and oyster bar and restaurant, all wrapped up in one.”

DRINK

“Head brewer Blake Masoner is making the best IPAs at Craft Coast Beer & Tacos (aside from our brewer Mike Aubuchon, of course).” Come for the “awesome, laid-back atmosphere” and “peoplewatch on downtown’s bustling Mission Avenue They’re also churning out some of the best birria tacos in O’side. Get the dark Mexican lager with a lime, and order the tacos ’Craft Coast Style.’ ” Coffee is huge in Oceanside, and there’s no shortage of stellar coffee shops to choose from. Captains Grounds and The Cup are “mom-and-pop shops ... where the locals go” and you can “get your Yeti cup filled for $1.” Vigilante Coffee “imports and

Craft Coast Beer & Tacos

The Brick Hotel

Heritage Barbeque & Beer Co.

Top Gun House

This month: Anchorage, Alaska

The insider: Elizabeth Hall, COO of John Hall’s Alaska

ALASKA

Elizabeth Hall’s first trip up the Alaska Highway was in 1991 on a tour with her father, John Hall Sr. And it was this trip that inspired her to dedicate her career to sharing the beauty of Alaska with travelers from around the globe. The family’s multigenerational business started with her father’s quirky sense of hospitality: His first hotel had an innovative “rent a cat” program offering guests feline companionship for the night. It’s since grown to include motor coach, ferry, and cruise line tours throughout Alaska. Here are her favorite local spots.

STAY

Hotel Captain Cook is in one of the best locations in Anchorage, and has a stunning view of Anchorage’s coastline and the Chugach Mountain Range. The hotel’s dark, rich wood motif is reminiscent of the old ships that explored the coast of Alaska. The Copper Whale is a woman-owned-andoperated boutique bedand-breakfast-style property in downtown Anchorage. Built in 1939, the main building is historic by Anchorage standards (the city was founded in 1915). Rooms can have views of Cook Inlet, nearby mountains, and the inn’s vibrant gardens.

EAT

Moose’s Tooth is a famous spot for great gourmet pizza and craft beer.

Moose’s Tooth serves pizza and Broken Tooth Brewing beer. Southside Bistro is known for its casual atmosphere and great wine list. With a fourth-generation Alaskan as the general manager, the menu features ingredients straight from the fields and seas. Marx Bros. Café is the perfect spot for a date night or special occasion. It's known for the tableside Caesar salad.

DRINK

South Restaurant and Coffeehouse is “an

urban-chic spot featuring new American dining,” known for its “cocktails featuring local ingredients. Its owner, Laile Fairbairn, was a semifinalist for a 2023 James Beard Award for outstanding restaurateur.” The Crow’s Nest is located at the top of the Hotel Captain Cook’s main tower and features beautiful views of Anchorage and offers amazing food, specialty cocktails, and a celebratory atmosphere.

SHOP

Anchorage Museum

Store features art and gifts from Indigenous artists, makers, and local designers. And the

Ch’k’iqadi Gallery, located at the Alaska Native Heritage Center, features authentic Alaska Native art, jewelry, and other crafts, too.

DO

Anchorage Museum added 25,000 square feet of gallery space to display its permanent Alaska collection. The Smithsonian Institution loaned hundreds of Indigenous Alaskan artifacts so they could be available for hands-on study by Native elders, artists, and scholars. Bike or walk along the 11 miles of Tony Knowles Coastal Trail the “crown jewel of Anchorage’s 135mile paved trail system.”

The trail “has great views of Cook Inlet and the prospect of sighting moose, eagles and cranes. Go flightseeing in a helicopter for views of Denali , the Chugach National Forest , or nearby Spencer Glacier. Passengers can choose from glacier picnics to ice climbing. Flattop Mountain is arguably one of the most popular hikes in the city, but the trail system offers several other options for visitors of all abilities. The area offers access points to the Chugach State Park, which surrounds Anchorage on the east side of town.” —K.S.

Alaska Native Heritage Center

Hotel Captain Cook

Chugach State Park

West Essentials

Taste of The Santa Ynez Valley - A Culinary Exploration

Explore the food and wine–and the creators behind it–of California’s Central Coast in one immersive experience, Sept. 28-Oct. 1. Four days. Six towns. More than 100 restaurants, wineries, tasting rooms, and more at the annual Taste of the Santa Ynez Valley. visitsyv.com/taste-of-the-santa-ynez-valley/

Unforgettable Costa Rica Adventure Awaits.

Find adventure and relaxation on 200+ acres of rainforest at SCP Corcovado Wilderness Lodge on the Osa Peninsula. Discover exotic wildlife, thrilling activities, and tranquil beaches while positively impacting your soul, community, and planet. Book your once-in-a-lifetime vacation experience today. scphotel.com/corcovado

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The Great Colonial Cities of Mexico

A magnificent program that begins sailing from LA to Puerto Vallarta aboard the new Norwegian Bliss (free train travel from any CA point) before we enjoy lavish hotel stays with sightseeing and fine dining in three of Mexico’s greatest colonial cities: Guadalajara, Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende. uncommonjourneys.com

Unbox The West!

The Sunset Subscription Box brings the Best of the West straight to your door! Every three months, you’ll get a box full of home, design, food, and gardening products curated by Sunset editors. Choose the box that fits your style and price point, then get ready to be surprised and delighted by what you find inside! TheSunsetBox.com

SOUTHWEST

Chef Brian Howard has been a Vegas local for over 20 years, and a favorite spot for both him and his kitchen crew to eat off the clock is Chinatown, also known as Spring Mountain Road. “It’s a food lover’s paradise. The threemile stretch is an ode to and representation of most Asian cuisines, and over the last six years or so it has expanded into a Mecca of deliciousness,” he says. “You can have just about anything you’re looking for, from a world-class kaiseki experience to a 12-course tasting menu or the best bowl of noodles you’ve ever had.”

EAT

This month: Chinatown, Las Vegas, Nevada

The insider: Brian Howard, chef-owner of Sparrow + Wolf and Half Bird

Chicken & Beer

You’ll find “tastes of modern Spain at one of my favorite restaurants, EDO,” and at “ Hachi , the beers are cold, the sake flows, the food is top-notch, and it won’t break the bank. From sizzling skewers of yakitori to delicate slices of sashimi, every dish is crafted with the utmost care.” Shanghai Taste is “a small six-seat counter where you can watch the team fold dumplings and fresh noodles. The xiao long bao, or soup dumplings, are a must-try. I’m a sucker for the juicy and flavorful thin-skinned, non-traditional crab version. The cold sliced ox tongue in Sichuan sauce will leave you singing and

Edo

The Palms Place Spa and Hotel

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF THE GOLDEN TIKI; © SABIN ORR; PALMS CASINO RESORT; BRONSON LOFTIN

the fat noodles with pork and mushroom will leave you comforted, as if you’ve eaten in Grandma’s living room.”

DRINK

Tucked away in a quiet corner of Chinatown, “ Sand Dollar Lounge has been a local favorite for over 40 years. You can grab a cocktail and the best pizza in the city after 10 p.m., all while rubbing elbows with the city’s top chefs.” The Golden Tiki transports travelers “to a tropical paradise, complete with palm trees, bamboo huts, and a starlit roof. There’s an extensive menu of inventive cocktails like the classic mai tai or the painkillers served in tiki mugs.” J Karaoke is “a hidden gem. The atmosphere is lively and fun, with neon lights, plush seating, and a vast selection of songs.” They also offer “a menu of Korean-style fried chicken, spicy rice cakes, and other tasty bites to fuel your singing sessions.”

STAY

The Las Vegas Strip is about a 5-to-10-minute drive from Chinatown. “ The Palms Place Spa and Hotel is one of the closest hotels en route, and has all the luxury contemporary amenities needed, even can be rented out as Airbnb. It’s also within walking distance to my restaurant, Half Bird Chicken & Beer. (Wink, wink.)”

SHOP

Chinatown Plaza is “a maze of sensory delights. Here, you’ll find a smorgasbord of specialty shops, spas, massage parlors, and markets, each one offering a tantalizing glimpse into the world of Chinese commerce. From produce and dried seafood to herbal remedies and trendy Asian fashion and anime toy stores, it’s a place where you can lose yourself for hours.”

—K.S.

ALASKA

COSTA RICA

NATIONAL PARKS

Spearheading a Movement

A world-record-holding spearfisherwoman shares lessons learned at sea.

Interview by KRISTA SIMMONS

Mitsuki Hara is making a name for herself in spearfishing, a competitive water sport that’s historically been dominated by men. Her petite frame doesn’t hinder the 27-year-old from carrying some seroius weight, including the recordbreaking white sea bass she recently caught, which clocked in at nearly 75 pounds. The Japanese-born athlete—who is passionate about only catching what she knows she can eat, a sustainable foil to commercial fishing—shares how spearfishing has impacted her life, giving her a sense of community and a passion for protecting the oceans.

Give us the spearfishing basics.

The whole point of spearfishing is to relax. We do free diving with no tanks. You can dive as shallow as 10 to 20 feet, or sometimes as deep as 60 to 70 feet. You have to stay underwater as long as you can, be still, and wait for the fish to pass in front of you.

How did you get into the sport?

My dad had a boat, and he taught me rod and reel [fishing.] I moved to the U.S. and went to the University of California San Diego, and one day I saw a

man coming out of the water with a lobster bag, but I was a student and couldn’t afford lobster. The first time I couldn’t dive at all, but he took me around La Jolla and showed me where the lobsters were. It was amazing.

What is it like being a woman in such a male-dominated sport? Was the community supportive?

When I started, I couldn’t find any female divers, it was all these big hunting dudes. It’s a very physically demanding sport; you need to get

access to beaches carrying 12-to-20-pound weights, and the fish themselves are 30 to 40 pounds. I wasn’t a good swimmer or diver at the beginning, and these people never gave up on me. We catch something together and then cook something together. All of my family is in Japan, so it’s not just that they’re my friends, it’s a family, really.

Why do you feel it’s important to represent women in the water?

When I started, I didn’t have many women role models. If there’s one woman I can encourage to get into it, that’s worth it to me. But it really is more of a lifestyle than a sport. If someone is doing it just to catch fish, it will disappoint you. I may catch a fish every four or fives dives. Those target fish aren’t always there for you. It’s about being out there in the water.

Why do you like working and living here in the West, specifically?

California is awesome because you can go up to Mendocino or Monterrey, and you have a totally different ecosystem and species and water temperatures and currents than you do here [in Southern California]. I’ve lived all over the world, but I think California is the most diverse in terms of ecosystem, ecology, and nature. You can go snowboarding and catch trout and spearfish all in one day.

What’s the greatest lesson you have learned from the ocean?

The ocean isn’t always nice to you. The current can be strong, sometimes fish are too big. But those times that I’m almost in panic, that’s the time that I really have to breathe right and make the right decisions. I feel like I am much better at making decisions quicker when things are going wrong in life in general—on water or land. It really helps to be able to make more grounded decisions in moments of stress. You are almost out of breath, and under that stress aim it right, move slow, relax, and get that fish. It’s all about slowing down.

“ I ’VE LIVED ALL OVER THE WORLD, BUT CALIFORNIA IS THE MOST DIVERSE. YOU CAN GO SNOWBOARDING AND CATCH TROUT AND SPEARFISH ALL IN ONE DAY. ”

MILL VALLEY I WALNUT CREEK I BERKELEY I SAN RAMON I BURLINGAME I MOUNTAIN VIEW I LOS GATOS FOUNTAIN VALLEY I PASADENA I ROCKLIN I NEW AGOURA HILLS