Sunset Travel Awards OctNov 2023 Issue

The

Travel Issue

125 of the hottest hotels, spas, wineries, restaurants, shops, and destinations in the West

RESTORATIVE ROAD TRIPS

ROCK STAR HOME DESIGN BUILDING A FIRE-SAFE HOUSE

The mussels with fennel cream at Pacific

at the KEX Hotel in

Go West

CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER

Michael A. Reinstein

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Hugh Garvey

DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Sarah Yang

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Wilson

PHOTO EDITOR

Christine Bobbish

STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Thomas J. Story

The hardest thing about travel in the West is deciding where to go and what to do. Bouldering in Yosemite or bronzing in Cabo? Driving Highway 1 above Big Sur or riding the surf in Malibu? Booking a tasting menu at a three star Michelin restaurant or queuing up for a three dollar taco? Kayaking in the San Juan Islands or paddling an outrigger off the Kona Coast? You get it. The options are infinite. Decision paralysis inevitable. When it came time to book a semi-working vacation this year I took the easy way out and returned to a place I’ve visited off and on for the past 15 years: the Big Island of Hawaii’s said Kona Coast, that dramatic intersection of centuries old black lava flows and swaths of dense jungle. It was, like every trip I’ve ever taken in the West: thoroughly delightful, yet also entirely unlike all the others. The balmy weather, slow pace, and aquatic activities radically different from past vacations that involved riding horses in the hills of the Santa Ynez Valley, trail running in Tomales Bay, or native-plant spotting in the high desert. All distinct, and all distinctly Western. While making a choice is hard, making the right choice is easy when the options are so incredible. And with this year’s annual Sunset Travel Awards we’ve made deciding even easier. To coincide with our 125th anniversary we’ve picked 125 winners in the categories of where to go, what to do, where to eat and drink, and how to get there. You’ll find rad ranches, superlative spas, top flight tasting experiences, retro motels and luxe resorts, outdoor activities and vinous escapes, and so much more. Picking just 125 winners was exceptionally difficult given the quality and diversity of this year’s pool of entrants. Fortunately you’ll be able to survey all of this year’s entrants in a new, super navigable, photo-rich online travel directory at sunset.com/traveldirectory. It’s a stellar list and a testament to the excellence of travel in the West. Congratulations to this year’s win-

May you forever make trip planning such an exquisite conundrum.

pinterest.com/SunsetMag @Sunset @sunsetmag

in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited submissions. Manuscripts, photographs, and other material submitted to P.O. Box 15688 Beverly Hills, CA 90209 can be acknowledged or returned only if accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. For assistance with your Sunset subscription, call 1-800-777-0117. support@sunset.com

TRAVEL EDITOR

Krista Simmons

SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR

Kristin Guy

CONTRIBUTING HOME & DESIGN EDITOR

Christine Lennon

VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL INITIATIVES

Matt Gross DIGITAL PRODUCER/NEWSLETTER EDITOR

Nicole Clausing

LIFESTYLE CONTRIBUTOR

Camille Styles

SENIOR DIRECTOR, PRODUCTION

Jamie Elliott

Sales & Marketing

SVP, MEDIA SOLUTIONS

Mort Greenberg

VP, PARTNERSHIPS

Kathleen Craven

HEAD OF TRAVEL

Pamela Coffey

HEAD OF OUTDOOR

Kristi Rummel

SVP, REVENUE OPERATIONS

Kelly Facer

DIRECTOR OF AD OPERATIONS

Mindy Morgan

HEAD OF CUSTOM EVENTS

Tracy Seng

ACCOUNT MANAGER

Megan Giordano

Sunset Media International Corporation

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Tom Griffiths

Graydon Sheinberg

—Hugh Garvey, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

On location (and vacation) at Kona Village in Hawaii.

Benjamin Moore paint is only sold at locally owned stores,

Kern County Bakersfield Paint bakersfieldpaint.com

Sequoia Paint sequoiapaint.com

Los Angeles County Altadena Hardware altadenahardware.com

Baller Hardware ballerhardware.com

Catalina Paint catalinapaintstore.com

Cox Paint coxpaint.com

Crown Paint crownpaintca.com

Falcon Paints (626) 330 -8070

Ganahl Lumber ganahllumber.com

Jill’s Paint Store catalinapaintstore.com

Manta Paint mantapaints.com

Mark’s Paint Store shilpark.com

Par Paint parpaint.com

Paul’s Paint paulspaintscv.com

Shilpark Paint shilpark.com

Orange County De Vaul Paint (714) 546-9191

Fullerton Paint fullertonpaint.com

Ganahl Lumber ganahllumber.com

Orange Paint Store orangepaintstore.com

Shilpark Paint shilpark.com

Riverside County Ganahl Lumber ganahllumber.com

Paint Garden paintgarden.com

Painters Warehouse (760) 346-4444

Tru-Tone Paint (760) 325-1225

Santa Barbara County Santa Barbara Paint Depot sbpaintdepot.com

Santa Ynez Paint (805) 686-5114

San Bernadino County

Big Bear Paint Center (909) 866-7765

Catalina Paint catalinapaintstore.com

Shilpark Paint shilpark.com

San Diego County Colorama Paint coloramapaint.com

Inland Paint inlandpaint.com

Shilpark Paint shilpark.com

San Luis Obispo County Terra Paints (805) 466-2226

Ventura County

Catalina Paint catalinapaintstore.com

because that’s where the experts are.

For over three decades, McEvoy Ranch has been making the highest-quality, award-winning, estate-produced Extra Virgin olive oil, small-lot wine, culinary, and olive oil beauty care. Located in the rolling hills of Petaluma, McEvoy Ranch is a 550-acre working, organic ranch committed to good land stewardship and sustainable farming practices. The Ranch is home to 50 acres of Tuscan olive trees nestled amongst natural ponds, coastal fog, and native wildlife.

Visit to experience the extraordinary beauty of harvest and milling season, or to enjoy an olive oil or wine tasting, ranch tour, and much more!

MAKE YOUR RESERVATION TODAY AT McEVOYRANCH.COM

BEST OF THE WEST

Serene in Sedona

The stunning makeover of Arizona’s fabled Mii Amo proves we just do spas better in the west.

Photograph by THOMAS J. STORY

The Western spa retreat just got a major upgrade with the $40 million renovation of the serene Mii Amo, sited perfectly in Sedona’s picturesque Boynton Canyon. After 20-plus years of providing award-winning service to wellness seekers, Mii Amo (one of the winners of our 2023 Travel Awards, which start on page 59) has expanded to a whopping 42,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor space, all built of adobe, stucco, and wood in the resort’s signature soothing earth tones. In addition to more casitas than ever, 26 treatment rooms, a new sensory garden, and an expanded fitness center, now guides and naturalists lead hiking, biking, and climbing excursions into the 400mile trail network of the nearby canyon. And James Beard Award finalist and fitness enthusiast chef Seamus Mullin has redefined “spa food” at Hummingbird, a restaurant that offers plant-forward dishes alongside indulgent dishes starring ingredients from local ranches and orchards. Longtime guests take note: The legendary domed Crystal Grotto has been preserved.

OYSTER COOLER

The road-trip-ready Oyster Tempo 23 cooler uses the same thermal- and spaceefficient double-wall technology that’s used for water bottles, plus a super snug lid, to negate the need for ice. Plus, it’s aluminum, so you can recycle it—not that you would.

$500, oystercooler.com

PATAGONIA BOARD SHORTS

Made of 100 percent recycled nylon in Fair Trade–certified facilities, the Wavefarer board shorts are quick-drying and ideal for your next beach getaway.

$75, patagonia.com

Eco on the Go

Low-impact clothing and accessories that will have you traveling in high style.

DANNER RECRAFTABLE

600 LEAF GTX HIKER

Waterproof thanks to Gore-Tex and tricked out with a Vibram sole that’s designed to be replaced when it wears out, the Leaf version of the classic Danner hiker will be your forever travel and trail buddy. $220, danner.com

MISSION STUFFEL

One of the most versatile, tough, and light pieces of luggage we’ve ever tried. Its minimalist build makes it a serious weight-saver. And of course we’re partial to the sunset orange. $109, mysteryranch.com

OUTERKNOWN CALIFORNIA

COTTON PINK WOMEN’S HOODIE

This hoodie is the ultimate travel layer, perfect for chilly airports or planes, and is made from regeneratively grown, carbon-sequestering Climate Beneficial cotton. $198, outerknown.com

The Temecula Valley’s Seriously So Cal Wine

Situated midway between the desert and the ocean, the Temecula Valley is the epitome of Southern California Wine Country.

TIME YOUR TRIP

The heart of the Temecula Valley experience can be found in the tasting rooms of its nearly 50 wineries. Weekends are wonderful but they can be busy, so many local wine insiders suggest visiting mid week for a more relaxed, less crowded experience, with more time to learn about the wines from the tasting rooms’ knowledgeable staff. In fact, it may even be the winemaker or winery owner pouring for you, sharing stories and pro tips while you sip.

SIP OLD AND NEW Experience what dedication to the craft tastes like at Carter Estate where Javier Flores (who moved from Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe 25 years ago) and Jon McPherson make sparkling wine in the painstaking méthode traditionnelle used in Champagne, along with other exceptional bottlings. For forward-looking reds and whites from a UC Davis-trained winemaker, hit Masia de la Vinya on bucolic De Portola Road. The Verdelho is a standout.

GO FAMILY FIRST

he server asks “Is the Cab Franc treating you well?” It is indeed. I’m at the restaurant at Ponte Vineyard Inn in Temecula Valley, sipping a tasty glass of Cabernet Franc— one of the nearly two-dozen grapes that thrive here—reflecting on a two-day trip during which I’ve tasted zippy whites, hearty Rhône-style reds, and other award-winning wines. Temecula Valley is a beautiful wine growing region that’s a convenient hour and half from Los Angeles and an hour from Palm Springs and San Diego. Yes, the climate and rolling hills remind people of the Mediterranean, but the Temecula Valley is uniquely Southern Californian. There’s are experiences for everyone, with welcoming tasting rooms, live music, wellness and adventure activities, and an exciting culinary scene. Local talent and winemakers from other well-known regions, including the nearby Valle de Guadalupe, are seeing the promise of Temecula Valley and raising the bar on the area’s bottlings. Here are six ways to build a perfect itinerary in this vibrant wine region that’s seriously So Cal.

Instagram your heart out at the rustic yet refined Peltzer Winery where expertly crafted wines are poured against the backdrop of an Americana farm fantasy. At Akash Winery, the Patel family’s modernist refuge offers views, pop-up pizza, yoga, and, of course, Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, and crushable rosé. Pioneering Palumbo Family Vineyards pours high quality estate reds in a setting that embodies the Valley’s farm-toglass experience.

EXPERIENCE WINE WITH A VIEW

At Doffo Winery, Argentinian varieties and a collection of gorgeously restored vintage motorcycles are in full effect. Sleek Bottaia offers an interactive wine blending lab, a charcuterie and wine pairing experience, and a pool with private cabanas that visitors can rent.

Altísima serves local bottlings at a luxurious facility with a modern Spanish restaurant and spectacular views.

DINE FINELY

Cap off your day with an exquisite Spanish meal at Bolero Restaurante at the sprawling Europa Village, where the affable and talented Egyptian-born chef Hany Ali oversees an expertly cooked menu of classic paella, modern tapas, and wines to match. The Restaurant at Leoness Cellars is an incredible upscale dining experience, with ultra-talented Chef Ben Diaz at the helm. The french fries here deserve a mention— they are life changing.

JOIN THE CLUB

Wines from Temecula don’t have wide distribution beyond the region, so be sure to sign up for one of the many wine club memberships offered throughout the Valley. Not ready to commit? Just about all wineries ship to most U.S. states.

Country chic Peltzer.

Balloon rides over the Valley.

The tasting room at Akash.

Poolside sips at Bottaia.

Spanish fare at Altísima.

MAY YOU ALWAYS BE WELCOMED WITH OPEN ARMS, OPEN MINDS, AND AN OPEN BOTTLE OF WINE

HOME & GARDEN

A modern house in Sonoma County narrowly escaped destruction by a record-breaking blaze, thanks to its eco-smart design and plenty of luck. Plus, how Surfacedesign revived a garden ravaged by the same fire.

Story by CHRISTINE LENNON • Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

yle Pinjuv walked down the narrow road near his cabin in Nuns Canyon, just outside Glen Ellen, California, and stood at the edge of the fire. It was 4 a.m on Monday, October 9, 2017, and he had been up all night waiting to evacuate. There was one way out, the winding passage before him, and it was engulfed in flames. The fire that had begun at 10 p.m. the night before raged on. If he attempted to drive out, his tires could melt. Or a tree could collapse on the road, or on his car.

“We were deep in the canyon, very isolated,” says Pinjuv, who works for the Sonoma Land Trust, a local land conservation nonprofit. He was renting a 1950s-era wooden cottage on a protected SLT easements, a 37-acre

property owned by a San Francisco family who’d left the only other structure on the property—a modern concrete, steel, and glass country home designed by architect Glenda Flaim of Butler Armsden—to return to the city just hours before. They had no idea that tragedy loomed.

“Naively, I was under the impression that there was some form of rescue if we were in serious danger,” says Pinjuv, who was in communication with local firefighters who told him not to risk fleeing by car until they gave him an all-clear signal. “They’re not sending a helicopter in the middle of the night during 70-mile-per-hour winds to get you. We were on our own.”

Just after 6 a.m., the wind shifted, and Pinjuv, his dog, and a neighboring family with two kids were able to

weave through the fields of a neighboring vineyard to safety.

“When I finally drove away, the fire was about 20 feet from the house,” Pinjuv says. “It was kind of like a farewell. I knew that it wouldn’t survive.”

The fate of the newer, modern house up the hill, nestled among a shady grove of redwood and oak trees, was less certain. Because power is shut off by the utilities company in the event of fire threat, the sprinkler system couldn’t activate. And because of widespread damage to the area, it would be days before the owners would know if it was still standing.

There were, however, a couple of key design elements working in the home’s favor that made its survival more likely. The house had earned a gold-level LEED certification, and according to Flaim, the

The home is U-shaped, with an open view across a courtyard and pool. Because the fire encountered the large concrete foundation wall and pool first, it made it difficult for the flames to jump to the main residence.

energy-conscious aspects of the structure also made the home better equipped to resist fire. The home had a metal, noncombustible roof. Its windows and vents were thoroughly sealed, which prevented stray sparks from entering the attic and excess smoke from infiltrating the interiors.

Flame-resistant Alaskan cedar siding backed by fire-rated gypsum board was another prudent choice. And the foundation and hardscaping, particularly a large wall that surrounded the pool sited downslope from the home, was made of concrete (a LEEDfriendly material that’s often made

with local, sustainable, and/or recycled materials). Investing in what Flaim describes as “invisible costs” gives a homeowner multiple benefits, including resistance to extreme events like fires.

One of the ways wildfires spread rapidly through residential areas is by

The

were tainted by smoke but otherwise untouched. The windows, made of laminated glass, are designed to withstand high temperatures. Leather chair,

Architect Glenda Flaim, Sonoma Land Trust’s Kyle Pinjuv, and the homeowner visit in the courtyard. Outdoor dining chairs, Harbour; sofa and lounge, DWR; metal chairs, Room & Board.

minimal interiors

Lawson-Fenning; pair of accent chairs, vintage Ward Bennett.

A streamlined steel and stone kitchen with wood floors and minimal textiles is smokeproof. Counter stools, Thomas Hayes.

very high winds that pick up flying embers, which then land on top of houses, explains Flaim.

“They sit there until the roof catches fire and then it falls into the house,” she says. “All of the houses in the canyon that were lost were older homes with shingled or more combustible roofing materials.”

A metal roof can assist with rainwater capture and reflect, rather than absorb, heat from the sun, and keep cool air from leaking in the summer and warm air inside in the winter. High-quality windows and vents with a thorough seal are another line of defense in an area prone to fires.

“One measure of the performance, or the effects, for energy efficiency is having a very tight envelope,” says Flaim. “The outlets, the windows, the venting, how you seal it and the filtration rate in the house is important. It also helps a lot with smoke.”

Two stressful days after the fire was contained and extinguished, the homeowners were escorted up Nuns Canyon to see if the structure had survived. The ground that surrounded the house on three sides was still smoldering, and the pump house was leveled by the flames, but the house

itself remained.

“If you look at the aerial pictures of the house, you can see that as the fire approached, it burned the bocce court and the pump house,” says Flaim. “Then it met the concrete retaining wall around the pool and split in two directions around the house.”

The minimal, streamlined interiors were smoke-tinged but not destroyed. It was nothing that deep cleaning couldn’t fix. The pump house and wells took about a year to rebuild. But the owners and builders purposefully left some fire scars on the exterior of the house.

“Our clients didn’t want to erase them,” says Flaim. “A scar on your body tells a story of your experience, and it’s the same thing with a house. We didn’t make it pristine again. We left the signs.”

Pinjuv still works for the Sonoma Land Trust, and the organization has shifted its conservation work to recognize that climate change, not overdevelopment, is the biggest threat to the community and ecosystem.

“These hotter, drier, windier seasons we’re seeing means we’re getting more frequent fires, and they’re getting more intense,” he says. “Being

conscious of where, and how, we build our homes in this interface can help save property and lives. So can evacuating when authorities say it’s time to go.

“Listen to your fire fighters,” says Pinjuv, and recognize the risk.

“As more people live in these areas of urban and wildland interface,” he says, “there’s more of a chance that their lives will be affected by fire.”

Flaim designed the no-fuss bunk room with enough space for friends to sleepover. A rug woven from vintage sari silk adds softness and texture.

In the dining room, a Petite Friture Vertigo light hangs over a custom, reclaimed Douglas fir table.

OUT OF THE ASHES

ELSEWHERE IN NUNS CANYON, SAN FRANCISCO–BASED LANDSCAPE DESIGN STALWART SURFACEDESIGN RESUSCITATED A MODERN GARDEN THAT WAS NEARLY DESTROYED BY THE SAME BLAZE.

After the same wildfire wiped out much of the protective madrones in the forest below this stunning Mork Ulnes–designed property—and charred much of the garden and main residence—Surfacedesign came in to assess the damage and replant. “The pool area mostly survived the fire, since the concrete walls acted as a firebreak for the area,” says principal Michal Kapitulnik. It’s comprised of a mix of grasses, pink muhly grass and deer grass, that capture light and move with the wind. They’re accented with more structural agave groupings. Because many of the larger trees and shrubs surrounding the home were lost, creating a sound and wind barrier was a priority.

“Salvaged olive trees and newly added Arbutus x ‘Marina’ [strawberry trees] provided shade and scale to the newly exposed hillside post-fire,” Kapitulnik says. Along the driveway entrance, invasive acacias were taking over. “After we eradicated the invasives, we established a palette of native shrubs including manzanitas and ‘Davis Gold’ toyon with oak trees,” she adds. Erosion control was also a big concern with the newly exposed hillside. The Surfacedesign team took cues from native flowers and grasses to secure it. “We hydroseeded the hillside that had burned with a custom mix of California barley, purple needlegrass, nodding needlegrass, California melic, pine bluegrass, and nanus lupin,” Kapitulnik explains.

To help retain moisture in the soil around the new plantings, they used gravel mulch instead of bark and plant materials. It’s noncombustible and won’t blow away in a gust. Two years after the work was finished, only traces of fire scars remained. “Even the madrones are coming back,” she says. “It’s a very resilient place.”

Fireproofing Tips for Landscape Design

1. Remove as many invasive species from the landscape as possible. They’ll be the first to grow back and can be serious fire-spreaders.

2. Plant native wildflower and grass seeds to stabilize a hillside left barren by flames, or in a large meadow, to keep invasive species at bay.

3. Install gravel mulch instead of traditional bark— it’s noncombustible, keeps moisture in the soil, and doesn’t blow around.

4. Be aggressive about replanting native trees like toyon and live oaks, which can keep nonnatives away and create a windscreen in a landscape that’s been decimated by fire.

MARION BRENNER

Sustainably Stylish Sleep

Serene wall colors certainly evoke calm, but the true pillar of a healthy bedroom is the mattress—one that encourages quality sleep and well-being. In this year’s Sunset Idea House, Camille Styles looked to Avocado Green Mattress to anchor the bedrooms in her 1950s beach house renovation with mattresses that support restorative rest and, ultimately, better health.

the last eight hours in a bed free of VOCs, formaldehyde, and phthalates.”

Optimizing Comfort

In addition to its certified organic materials, Avocado makes body support paramount. According to Hann, there are up to 1,438 pocketed support coils made of recycled steel throughout five strategic zones in each mattress, offering pressure-point relief, improved weight distribution, and spinal alignment. Additionally, Avocado’s team members needle-tuft each one by hand at the company’s Los Angeles factory. Such attention to detail proves that comfort and sustainability can co-exist.

Honestly Natural

Today, countless companies claim to deliver a product aligned with nature

Sleep Matters

As someone who has struggled with insomnia, Styles takes her sleep seriously. “Sleep is a true pillar of health,” says the entrepreneur. “So much depends on it!” Between shutting down her phone hours before bedtime to wearing breathable pajamas, she’s gotten her wind-down routine “on lock.” But one of the most critical parts of inducing calm sleep, she believes, is to reduce the harmful toxins that come into the bedroom.

Made of certified organic materials, including GOLS-certified organic latex and GOTS-certified organic wool and cotton, Avocado’s mattresses are more durable, breathable, and supportive than those made with synthetic materials, says Jessica Hann, Avocado’s Senior Vice President of Brand Marketing and Sustainability. “Polyurethane foams can emit volatile organic compounds, or VOCs, harmful chemicals that can cause respiratory irritation or other health problems,” she adds, pointing out that Avocado avoids chemical flame retardants and adhesives.

Styles, who also loves Avocado’s certified organic pillows and mattress toppers, has noticed the difference in her sleep quality since switching to an Avocado Green Mattress in her Austin home. “We sleep better at night and wake up feeling great, knowing we’ve spent

and wellness. But how can you know? Styles encourages consulting with the GOTS Public Database. “If a company is truly organic, the brand and their products will be listed here,” she says. Avocado

obtained a GREENGUARD Gold certification, which focuses on indoor air quality and low chemical emissions, and the Formaldehyde-Free Claim Verification, “which confirms that our products do not contain formaldehyde or formaldehydereleasing substances,” says Hann.

Because of its integrity and purity, Avocado is an ideal complement to Styles’ coastal beach house. “Choosing incredibly comfortable beds that support our health and earth is a nobrainer. That’s my kind of luxury.”

LUXURIOUS ORGANIC SLEEP

America’s best rated, certified organic mattresses are now affordable for everyone. Our mission is to be the most respected source for organic mattresses, pillows and bedding — while maintaining environmentally conscious, ethical, and sustainable business practices — to help safeguard the health of people and the planet. Experience Avocado at your local experience center or online at AvocadoGreenMattress.com.

GARDEN CHECKLIST AUTUMN YOUR

Gardens might be showing signs of slowing down, but cooler temps and the shift of season is prime time for the planting and prep that will set you up for success in the growing seasons ahead. Here’s how to take on autumn with longevity in mind.

Story by KRISTIN GUY

PLANT

Directly sow native wildflower and meadow grass seeds before the arrival of rain. Scatter using one part seed to three parts horticultural sand, which aids in germination coverage and deters foraging birds.

Rejuvenate soil by planting cover crops both in-ground and in raised beds. Choose from available seed mixes or create your own blend of clover, rye, and legumes. By covering your soil, you’ll not only

suppress weeds, decrease soil erosion, and retain more moisture—you’ll also be adding needed organic matter while fixing nitrogen levels.

Consider losing the lawn and installing a rain garden. Plant a mix of native grasses and flowering shrubs within a depressed area of the landscape to create a vegetated swale within the landscape. Increase beneficial wildlife while capturing 30% more rainwater compared to conventional lawns.

HARVEST

Try your hand at seed saving and revisit favorite heirlooms next year. Skip plucking from any plants that were difficult to grow or had pest issues, as they won’t offer the most viable seeds. Self-pollinating plants such as nightshades, beans, herbs, and flowers are an easy place to start and make for fantastic gifts.

The last of summer blooms can be turned into everlasting color creations. Zinnias, hollyhock, cone

flower, and cosmos are all perfect late-season choices that can be used for both bundle and dip dyeing fabrics.

Preserve your end-of-summer bounty to add fresh flavor to winter meals. Blanch hearty greens such as collards for 3 minutes, then cool, drain, and store in the freezer. Pickle the stems in a spicy brine for a zippy snack.

MAINTAIN

Avoid cutting back perennials,

In A Garden’s Purpose, author Félix de Rosen encourages us to accentuate the overlooked details such as borders and boundaries within our outdoor spaces. Here, weathered metal planters in various shapes define pathways and create more planting surface area, proving that even the slightest change in elevation can become a dynamic focal point for any sized garden.

especially natives, leaving their seed heads until spring. This will add dramatic texture to the garden while housing beneficial insects and providing food for wildlife.

Slower seasons are the perfect time to clean up tools and gear. Shine up weathered pruners and shears with a knife rust eraser and polish with camellia oil to prevent future tarnishing.

‘Tis the season for soil care. As the temperatures dip, add at least 2–4 inches of mulch and compost to fruiting trees and perennials. Pull back any organic matter from trunks and stems to prevent rotting during the wetter months.

A Garden’s Purpose

How ecological designer and author Félix de Rosen uses four structural design choices to change the way we rest and play outdoors.

Autumn is the perfect time to rethink how we use our outdoor space. As we turn toward projects that might be less about planting and more about planning, we can find inspiration in making intentional style decisions that will connect us deeper with our surroundings. Here Félix de Rosen guides us on defining small design moments that create big impact.

FENCING

When it comes to creating boundaries, de Rosen suggests looking inward at our intentions. “In urban and suburban areas, I notice how often fences go up between properties because neighbors assume this is the norm. Landscape design actually becomes a way to avoid building relationships. Let’s aim for the opposite— inspire and collaborate with neighbors.” Consider the trend of combining backyards into shared, wild spaces or replacing fencing entirely with a hedgerow.

EDGES

Consider both moments of intentional separation and softness. For example, a patio can be separated from a planter by a metal divider or retaining wall, but a more gradual transition can be achieved by installing a gravel strip to create a slow gradient and relaxed flow into the new space. Using organic materials such as willow branches, repurposed wooden posts, or tree stumps can also define space with a more casual elegance.

Need motivation on where to start? De Rosen suggests asking this question: How can the project be a unique expression of myself? “Be clear about where you are OK with the presence of flora and fauna, and where you are not,” he adds. “The materials we use in our garden impact the presence of life, allowing us to make intentional decisions about how we integrate habitat into our gardens. Get creative, break rules, and if it doesn’t work, just try again”.

PATHS

De Rosen encourages you to consider all types of texture and materials to create passages on a budget. Gravel, decomposed granite, and pavers are all affordable and easy to install. “Paths take us on journeys. By influencing where we move and where we look in the garden, paths affect how we feel,” he notes. Rather than thinking of getting from point A to point B, create geometry that helps focus our attention and allows us to engage with specific parts of the garden.

SLOPES

“It’s important to work imaginatively with topography instead of against it,” de Rosen advises. “In flat spaces, mounds and berms are powerful tools to add dynamism and movement.” Use slopes as a moment to create more intimate quiet spaces. Even the smallest changes in elevation can become focal points, such as implementing boardwalks, benches, and staggered planting areas to increase the planting footprint in smaller spaces.

For even more inspiration check out de Rosen’s beautifully composed book, A Garden’s Purpose: Cultivating Our Connection With the Natural World ($29.95, Princeton Architectural Press).

This Autumn Take Your Green Thumb Indoors

Looking to extend your gardening routine into the cooler months? We’re giving you the green light to green thumb indoors! No matter where you live in the west, houseplants continue to be both a style statement and a connection to nature within our homes. Whether you’ve got a growing gallery of greenery or are just looking to add a few new potted pretties, Danae Horst, owner of Folia Collective and author of House Plants for All: How to Fill Any Home With Happy Plants, shares her expert tips on how to keep your plant pals healthy during the seasonal shift.

SEEK THE SUN

Shorter days and changes in the sun’s angle can have a big impact on your plants. Rearrange to ensure they’re getting the best light possible—you may need to move them closer to a window, or adjust the area of the room you have them styled in. Numerous yellowing leaves, or other major changes in appearance, are often a sign that the plant needs more light. If you are unable to move plants, consider plugging in a grow light—there are many

stylish options, including bulbs that can be screwed into any lamp.

CLEAN UP CREW

If you’re bringing plants in from outdoors, dirt and pests may have hitched a ride. Wipe down leaves and stems with a soft cloth using water and diluted neem oil. Inspect each plant for signs of pests and quarantine any affected plants until they’ve

been treated. Pests may be hiding in the soil, so consider keeping all outdoor plants separate from year-round indoor plants.

HUNGRY FOR HUMIDITY

Is your skin feeling dry? Imagine how your plants feel! Cold, drier air and heaters running in the home means you may need to add humidity to the rooms you keep plants in—especially tropical plants. Low humidity is an ideal condition for pests like spider mites, but if you don’t want to commit to a humidifier, try creating a humidity tray by filling a tray with pebbles and enough water to reach just below the surface of the pebbles. When you set plants on top, the area right around those plants will have additional moisture.

THE SLOW DOWN

Less light, lower temperatures, and natural dormancy periods mean plants use the water in their soil more slowly. Adjust watering frequency to accommodate these changes, and always remember that the best way to tell if a plant needs to be watered (no matter the time of year) is to check the moisture level of the soil first. If you’re not seeing new leaves or additional height on your plants during cooler months, don’t stress—many plants will have slower growth, and some (like oxalis, caladium, and alocasia) even go dormant altogether.

NO CHILL ZONE

While window sills often provide the best light for plants, when the temperature drops windows can get a bit too cold for most houseplants. Keep leaves from touching the glass on cold days, and if you notice cold damage to your plants, move them further away.

Tailored Tending

TURN PLANT CARE INTO SELF CARE WITH GOOD-LOOKING GARDENING GEAR THAT YOU WON’T MIND PULLING OUT FOR THE TASK. HORST SHARES HER PICKS ON HOW TO TEND TO YOUR LEAFY LOVED ONES IN STYLE.

1 / Horsemen Co Propagation Station

The simple but stylish design can be used for propagating plants or displaying dried florals. $50; HORSEMENCO. COM

2 / Potting Tarp by Plantaholic

Contain the mess of repotting and other plant projects indoors with this easy-to-clean-and-store potting tarp. FROM $14.99; PLANTAHOLIC.US

3 / Greenery Unlimited Brass Soil Probe

Most houseplants don’t use water as quickly in the cooler months—this soil probe takes any guesswork out of when to water by bringing up an actual sample of the soil. $35; GREENERYUNLIMITED.CO

4 / Modern Sprout Pruning Snips

The narrow tip easily sneaks through dense foliage for precise cuts. $18.99; MODERNSPROUT.COM

5 / Nopalera Moisturizing Botanical Bar

Plant care can be rough on hands— this solid moisturizer rehydrates dry skin (and comes in plastic-free packaging to boot). $30; NOPALERA.CO

For more plant care and design tips, pick up a copy of Danae Horst’s House Plants for All: How to Fill Any Home With Happy Plants ($20, HarperCollins).

The west rim is heart-pounding, soul-searching, bucket-listchecking adrenaline rushes you’ve never felt or seen before, including one of the largest glass cantilever bridges in the world that will have you stepping 4,000 feet out over the Grand Canyon floor. Skywalk is just one of the ways you can jolt your senses and ignite your spirit at Grand Canyon West. Plan your adventure today.

SCAN TO START YOUR CANYON ADVENTURE!

A smart and stylish remodel adds muchneeded square footage for the growing family of Foo Fighters bassist Nate Mendel, half of a rockand-roll power couple with a soft spot for oldschool modernism.

Story by CHRISTINE LENNON

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

There is only one context in which calling a person “normal” is considered high praise, and that’s when it’s used to describe a rock star. The word is often modified with an adjective like “shockingly,” and, especially in L.A., it’s the rarest of compliments.

Foo Fighters bass player Nate Mendel and his music-publicist wife, Kate Jackson Mendel, both Washington state natives (and long-time Sunset subscribers), are delightfull y normal. They’re smart, grounded, family-focused, and relaxed. And their modern house in the San Fernando Valley is all of those things, too. With the help of their long-time interior designer and friend, Tamarra Younis of Union of Art interiors, the home has evolved in step with their family over the past 14 years, changing from a minimal, masculine modern to the easy, inviting family home it is today.

“When I bought the house, I tore it down to a single wall and rebuilt it,” says Nate. Before the renovation was complete, Nate found himself a single dad with a young son, Noah, and a lot of square footage he didn’t need. “I thought

Left: The Mendels at home with son Mac and twin daughters Oona and Nieve.

Above: The new second floor includes a sitting area, an office, a guest suite for visiting family, including Mendel’s oldest child, Noah, and a powder room. A mix of custom furnishings and vintage pieces give the space a Palm Springs modern feel. Designer and friend Tamarra Younis sits on the balcony.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Hints of bold pink warm up the formal living room with classic mid-century bones. An accent wall in custom fuchsia paint (Nate’s idea) glows behind some vintage midcentury furnishings.

Kate’s home office features an elegant glasstopped desk they scored on Amazon, custom built-in cabinetry, and velvet chairs from CB2.

about selling it for a while, and then I met Kate.”

Kate was living in Seattle at the time and was in no rush to leave. But she had the good sense to advise Nate to keep the house and enlist Younis to help him furnish it.

“We just happened to have this good friend who just happened to have this crazy talent,” Kate says. “Nate and I both love modern design, but for me, adding warmth is very important. It has to feel rich and textured, and I wanted it to feel like a family home with plenty of vintage details.”

Piece by piece, the home took shape. The backyard was transformed into a functional entertaining space, with a fire pit and lounge on one end and an outdoor kitchen and sitting area at the other end of the pool. When their second son, Mac, was born, they installed a modern playhouse in an unused corner of the lot near the garage. Then, when they discovered that they were pregnant with twin girls, Oona and Nieve, they added more space by looking up, and adding a partial second floor.

“We found out we were doubling the number of kids we

had, and that was a big surprise,” says Kate. “So we needed more space, and didn’t want to leave the neighborhood.”

The quiet cul-de-sac, the feeling that you’re removed from the busyness of the city but are just minutes away, and the steep hills built for long walks were too much to give up.

“Maybe it’s because we’re from the Northwest, but we’re big walkers. We’ll walk down the hill, even to run errands, and head back up,” says Kate. “It’s a good cardio neighborhood.”

Younis describes the house as feeling like a little pocket of Palm Springs in L.A. There are bold strokes of color throughout (like a fuchsia accent wall in the living room) vintage accessories, and a handful of Moroccan elements. Younis, her design partner at Union of Art, Katie Fern, and Kate leaned into that idea when they imagined the upstairs addition, which has an airier and more feminine point of view.

“The pinks and yellows, pale blue, the palette feels really

Inspired by a room at the Greenwich Hotel in New York, the guest suite has sleek built-ins, custom nightstands, and pillows and prints from Block Shop Textiles.

fresh,” says Kate. “I had a couple of ideas and images that I pulled for Tamarra, and she just sketched it out and ran with it.”

A wall of caned-front built-in closets and storage in the guest room was brainstormed after a stay in New York’s Greenwich Hotel. The woodwork above the stairwell and in Kate’s office was inspired by the midcentury homes in Palm Springs. From the ’70s-influenced bathroom vanity to the built-in desks for homework, it’s an entirely bespoke addition. By adding roughly 800 square feet, they have a new space for Noah when he comes home from college, a comfortable entertaining space, and a gorgeous home office, from which Kate co-runs Grandstand Media, the music public relations and management company she founded with her three partners.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Oona and Nieve share a moment in the foyer on a vintage mid-century bench. The cozy dining room features chairs salvaged from an L.A. County hospital and a table designed by Kate. The chair and ottoman in Kate’s office, where she curls up with her laptop and admires the treetop views, were custom-made in yellow performance velvet.

Though many of the furniture pieces, like the sofa and the yellow chair in the office, were designed by Younis and custom-made, this home isn’t precious in any way. Most of the upholstery fabric is industrial grade and stain-resistant, and there are plenty of reasonably priced accents in the mix.

“I give total credit to Kate and Nate, and the confidence they have to mix a splurge piece with something more affordable,” says Younis. “There are expensive custom pieces, but there are also things from Anthropologie and HomeGoods. Kate is confident in her taste and doesn’t need everything to be high-end or very expensive. They don’t have anything to prove. They love beautiful things but don’t feel they need to show off.”

All of the showing off in the family is handled by Mac, who is a natural in front of the camera, and his adorable sisters, who all insisted on getting in the pool—despite the chill—and were rewarded with organic chicken nuggets for their patience during the shoot.

Younis, known around the house as Auntie T, was ready with towels when they climbed out of the water, and she and Kate have a delightfully relaxed (some might say normal) attitude about the three kids tearing through the house.

“We made the house beautiful and durable, so it can stand up to the traffic and the wear and tear of having young kids,” Younis says. “We wanted it to feel inviting, purposeful, and comfortable. It’s about family.”

The Pacific Northwest natives relish the L.A. weather and spend as much family time poolside as possible. The outdoor kitchen and living areas are recent additions to the backyard. Outdoor chaises, DWR; barstools and sofas, Harbour.

“WE MADE THE HOUSE BEAUTIFUL AND DURABLE, SO IT CAN STAND UP TO THE TRAFFIC AND THE WEAR AND TEAR OF HAVING YOUNG KIDS,” YOUNIS SAYS. “WE WANTED IT TO FEEL INVITING, PURPOSEFUL, AND COMFORTABLE. IT’S ABOUT FAMILY.”

FOOD & DRINK

Raising the Bar Food

Portland’s new Pacific Standard tells the modern story of food in the West, with smart drink-friendly snacks and incredible cocktails to match.

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

effrey Morgenthaler can get pretty philosophical when it comes to bar food. “The West Coast has its own special food language, and I think there is a larger conversation in there about classic West Coast gastronomy that is deeper than the typical farm-to-table discussion. Pacific Standard isn’t Alice Waters; it’s James Beard.” There aren’t a lot of bartenders working these days who name-drop deceased East Coast culinary lions when riffing on the inspiration behind their latest project. But then again there aren’t many bartenders like Morgenthaler. He’s the guy who put Portland cocktails on the map, first at Clyde Common at the Ace Hotel, then at Pépé le Moko. He’s written two books on the subject. He’s an excellent maker of drinks with some 30 years behind the bar. And Pacific Standard at the KEX Hotel in Portland is his longtime dream.

Pacific Standard is, as Morgenthaler explains it, somewhat confusingly, “a restaurant bar without a restaurant.” Morgenthaler was tired of the 4 a.m. closing times, the rowdy clientele, and the limitations of simply making drinks, and gravitated toward the refinement of a restaurant setting: well-behaved clientele, access to great produce and product, good food to keep people grounded and lingering. Pacific Standard has all of those things, but unlike a restaurant bar, as Morgenthaler likes to point out, the bartenders are running the show. Yes, there’s food, but instead of coming from a culinary mind, it’s a bartender’s menu. So the food is hearty and drink friendly, and personal, and reflective of Morgenthaler’s pan-Western tastes, not with hyper-regional specificity but in a meandering greatest hits, road trip sort of way: artichokes with dip as a nod to their spiritual home of

Castroville, a drive-through burger with a hat tip to In-N-Out, a spiked date shake boozily saluting Palm Springs, Caesar salad from Tijuana with an optional Pacific Northwest Dungeness crab supplement.

The drinks are equally classic, though less overtly Western: subtle spins on Old Fashioneds, gimlets, and negronis, but all with a welcome twist—their ABV percentages are listed so customers know exactly what they’re getting into, a 37 percent ABV Old Fashioned or a 9.99 percent “AllDay Bloody Mary.” It’s a brilliant public service that all bars would be wise to adapt. And for those who aren’t imbibing the hard stuff, he offers wellcrafted zero-ABV drinks, such as the Tiger Balm, made with a nonalcoholic spirit infused with bay leaf, pepper, and lime, which we have included here.

Spring Onion Dip

Sweet and umami-packed Japanese Kewpie mayo and crunchy fried shallots make this an Asianesque spin on everyone’s favorite party dip. Onion powder gives it that nostalgic flavor boost.

MAKES: ABOUT 3 CUPS

¾ cups Kewpie mayonnaise

1¾ cups sour cream

½ tsp. garlic, microplaned or minced

¼ tsp. Dijon mustard

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

1 Tbsp. onion powder

1 tsp. lemon zest

2 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

¾ cup thinly sliced green onion

1 bunch chives, thinly sliced (about 1 3 cup)

½ cup fried shallots*

¼ cup buttermilk

Salt and lemon juice to taste

1 large bag potato chips

In a medium bowl, combine mayonnaise, sour cream, garlic, mustard, salt, onion powder, lemon zest, lemon juice, green onion, chives, fried shallots, and buttermilk. Whisk everything together until thoroughly combined. Season to taste with salt and lemon juice. Serve with your favorite potato chips—at Pacific Standard, we use Ruffles.

*Maesri brand fried shallots are good, check your local asian supermarket.

Shrimp Rolls

Pacific Standard uses Oregon bay shrimp in this zippy, creamy take on the lobster roll, but any small shrimp will be equally delicious.

MAKES 4 APPETIZERS

SHRIMP ROLL SAUCE

Another example of why you need more than one style of mayo in your fridge if you want to up your saucemaking game.

MAKES: 1 CUP

¾ cup Best Foods mayonnaise

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

2 tsp. minced garlic

¾ tsp. Tabasco

¾ Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

1 medium lemon, zested

3 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 8 tsp. cayenne pepper

¼ tsp. sweet paprika

1 8 tsp. ground cinnamon

1 8 tsp. celery seed

1 tsp. white vinegar

1 small shallot, minced

¼ cup fresh dill, minced

¼ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. ground black pepper

In a medium bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, mustard, garlic, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, lemon zest, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, paprika, cinnamon, celery seed, and white vinegar. Fold in the shallot and dill. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.

SHRIMP ROLL ASSEMBLY

4 split-top brioche rolls or hot dog buns

2 cups bay shrimp, poached 4 minutes in simmering salted water

1 3cup Shrimp Roll Sauce

1 Tbsp. thinly sliced chives

2 Tbsp. diced celery

Salt

Squeeze lemon juice

8 tsp. red tobiko

12 sprigs chervil

Butter

1. In a small mixing bowl, combine cooked shrimp, Shrimp Roll Sauce, chives, and celery. Season with salt and a squeeze of lemon juice to taste. Stir until combined. (Do ahead: Refrigerate when finished. Will keep up to 24 hours.)

2. When ready to serve: Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium high heat. Butter the rolls and toast on both sides until lightly browned. Fill each roll with a generous amount of the shrimp salad. To serve, place 2 tsp. of tobiko in three small piles on each roll, and place a piece of chervil atop the tobiko.

Mussels With Fennel Cream

This rich mussel dish is all about the broth, which is enriched with heavy cream and spiked with hard cider to brighten it up and give it backbone. The mussels will yield their briny liquor once steamed, so consider getting an extra baguette to sop up all the juices.

MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

1 cup dry hard cider

3 cups heavy cream

3 medium shallots, roughly chopped

1 fennel bulb, roughly chopped (save the fronds!)

3 sprigs thyme

3 bay leaves

Salt to taste

1. In a small saucepan over low heat, add the cider and cook the alcohol out of the cider. Don’t allow it to come to a boil, and do not reduce. This should take approximately 20 minutes. If there is any discoloration or build up on the sides of your pot, swap it out for a fresh one before the next step.

2. Add the cream, shallots, fennel, thyme, and bay leaves. Bring the pot to a low simmer. Again do not boil or reduce. Allow all ingredients to steep in the cream for no less than 15 minutes. Taste and add salt as needed. The cream should be noticeably sweet and aromatic. If not, let steep 5 minutes more.

3. Strain the solids from the sauce through a fine mesh strainer and discard solids. Pour sauce into a shallow pan and allow to cool completely. This can be made up to three days in advance.

MUSSELS ASSEMBLY MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cold

1 tsp. garlic, minced

2 Tbsp. finely diced shallot

2 Tbsp. finely diced fennel

6 oz. dry hard cider

1½ pounds mussels

1 quart Mussel Cream Salt

Lemon juice

Fennel fronds

1 baguette, grilled (or toasted) and cut on a bias into long pieces

1. Heat a large deep-sided skillet or pot with a lid over medium-high heat.

2. Add 1 Tbsp. butter along with the garlic, shallot, and fennel.

3. Cook vegetables, stirring occasionally, until they are just translucent, without any color, about 3 minutes.

4. Deglaze the pan with the cider, allow it to come to a boil, and then add mussels and Mussel Cream.

5. Increase heat to high. Cover the pot with a lid and cook until the mussels open, 3 to 5 minutes.

6. Using a slotted spoon or spider strainer, remove the mussels from the pan.

7. Bring the sauce back to a boil, add the remaining 3 Tbsp. butter, and stir until emulsified.

8. Remove the pan from the heat and season to taste with salt and lemon juice.

9. Divide the mussels evenly between four bowls, discarding any that failed to open. Pour the emulsified sauce over the mussels.

10. Garnish with fennel fronds, and finish the bowls with pieces of grilled baguette.

“There aren’t many bartenders like Jeffrey Morgenthaler. He put Portland on the cocktail map with Clyde Common at the Ace Hotel back in the day. Pacific Standard at the KEX Hotel is his lifelong dream.”

Perfect Pairings

We selected the ideal bottles to serve with this menu, and they’re available to members of our wine club. Sign up for quarterly deliveries of the best wines in the West at sunset.com/wineclub.

The high acidity in the wine cuts through the richness of the dish, adding a burst of citrusy flavor. There is a slight oyster shell brininess in the wine that makes this idea for seafood.

This light and bright Grenache Blanc brings forth the fresh herbs and spices in the dish while its medium body stands up to the richness of the brioche and shrimp.

2021 Loomis Grenache Blanc Snow Estate

Napa Valley

2021 Wade Cellars

Three By Wade California

Pineapple Syrup

A TROPICAL TAKE ON CLASSIC SIMPLE SYRUP.

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

1 cup sugar

1 cup water

1 cup fresh pineapple chunks

1. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar has completely dissolved. Add the pineapple chunks to the saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and let it simmer for about 10 minutes.

Cynar Collins

2 oz. Cynar

¾ oz. lemon juice

½ oz. simple syrup

2 oz. soda water

Lemon wedge

Tiger Balm

Who says a nonalcoholic cocktail can’t be fun? This refreshing tropical drink combines off-the-shelf Wilderton Lustre, citrusy and floral, with a house-made zero-proof spirit.

2 oz. Nonalcoholic Spirit (see recipe below)

¾ oz. Wilderton Lustre

1 oz. pineapple syrup (see recipe at right)

1 oz. lime juice

Lime wheel

Nonalcoholic Spirit

Combine all ingredients in a shaker filled with ice. Shake and strain into a tall chilled glass. Fill with crushed ice. Garnish with lime wheels.

2. Remove the saucepan from the heat and let the mixture steep as it cools down to room temperature. This will allow the pineapple flavor to infuse into the syrup. Once cooled, strain the syrup through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean jar or bottle, pressing the pineapple chunks to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the pineapple chunks. Store your pineapple simple syrup in the refrigerator. It should stay fresh for about a month.

It seems like a new brand of nonalcoholic spirits is released every week. Making your own is incredibly easy. The vinegar gives this bite, the tannin in the tea gives it backbone, and the pepper, bay leaf, and lime peel give it a slightly gin-like profile.

12 oz. water

2 oz. distilled white vinegar

1 Tbsp. grated lime peel

1 tsp. whole black peppercorns

2 bags green tea

¼ tsp. salt

1 small bay leaf

Combine Cynar, lemon juice, and simple syrup with ice in a cocktail shaker and shake until chilled. Add soda directly to shaker and strain over fresh ice in a Collins glass. Garnish with a lemon wedge.

Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cover and remove from heat immediately, and let sit 5 minutes. Strain solids through a fine mesh strainer or coffee filter, let come to room temperature, bottle, and refrigerate.

Rose Negroni

We support the ever-evolving reinterpretation of the Italian negroni cocktail. This floral spin is elegant and not too bracing.

1 oz. Beefeater gin

1 oz. Luxardo Bitter Bianco

1 oz. Yzaguirre Rosé vermouth

½ tsp. simple syrup

1 pinch salt Lemon twist

Combine all ingredients and stir with ice until chilled. Strain into a chilled Old Fashioned glass and garnish with a lemon twist.

CHICORY CHIC

CHICORY-OBSESSED FARMER STEPHEN CARTER RAISES SOME OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL EXAMPLES OF THIS TREASURED AUTUMN VEGETABLE AT SCRIBE WINERY IN SONOMA COUNTY. HERE THE BITTERSWEET PRODUCE STARS IN STUNNING FALL RECIPES.

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY Sunset Page 45

OBSESSIVE: CAN BE

about clothes, vintage audio equipment, and chicories. Of all the vegetables the head farmer at Scribe Winery in Sonoma grows for the delightful dishes created by chef Kelly Mariani, chicories are his favorite. Carter vividly recalls the moment of his conversion. It was November at Green String Farm in Petaluma, where he was working at the time. “I was wearing thoroughly soaked Blundstones and had numb hands,” he says. “I remember the first time my harvest lead pulled a head of Lusia out of what I thought was a mound of old leaves. I had never seen a vegetable that looked like that. Leaves so white they seemed silver, with splashes of red and green.” At first he wasn’t in love with the bitter taste, but it grew on him over time. “A plant that thrived in the harshest conditions, had a challenging flavor, and was shrouded in mystery. Of course I was hooked. First I was dragging my partner to Green String Farm owner Bob Cannard’s house after a music festival for some seeds. Next thing you know we were smuggling seeds back from Lusia, Italy, in envelopes that still smelled like cigarettes.”

Growing chicories can be challenging, so Carter suggests doing your advance work before committing to the long but rewarding process of cultivating them. For seeds,

he suggests Uprising Seeds in Bellingham, Washington. “They partner with farmers out of Italy and offer planting guides specific to each variety. Oregon’s Culinary Breeding Network is also a great resource for growing advice.”

Planting can be tricky as varieties are bred to mature at different rates to ensure availability throughout the winter, but you should be ready to go near the summer solstice. Tending to this

finicky beauty is where the network of fellow obsessives becomes vital. “I was initially drawn by the beauty of radicchio,” says Carter. “But the kindness and generosity of those I’ve met along the way has been the most unexpected part of this whole thing.” And here are gorgeous recipes to reward all that hard work.

Tortelli di Radicchio with Brown Butter and Hazelnuts

Scribe chef Kelly Mariani says this pasta “feels like a hug on a cool day. The creamy radicchio filling is delicious with the nuttiness of brown butter and hazelnuts. “ She suggests using a scale for the best results with the pasta.

SERVES 6

PASTA DOUGH:

250 grams ‘00’ flour (approximately 1¼ cups, plus more for kneading)

220 grams egg yolks, whisked (roughly 12–14 eggs)

Splash of olive oil

Pinch of salt

Semolina for dusting

PASTA FILLING:

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

½ yellow onion, diced

Kosher salt

1 clove garlic, chopped

¼ head radicchio, roughly chopped

½ cup ricotta

2 Tbsp. grated Parmesan

Black pepper

FOR ASSEMBLY:

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 Tbsp. toasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped

1 sprig of sage, picked

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

¼ head radicchio, thinly sliced

Zest and juice of ½ a lemon

1. For the pasta dough: Mound the flour out onto your countertop. Create a well in the middle, and pour in the blended egg and oil. Using a fork, slowly whisk the eggs, incorporating more flour as you go. Alternatively, you can do this on low in the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment by slowly pouring in the egg. Be sure to slowly incorporate the flour into the egg so you can create a smooth, even dough. Once the flour is mostly all mixed in, use your hands to knead the dough until you have a mostly smooth and even ball, roughly 5 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic and let it rest for a minimum of 30 minutes to allow the flour to fully hydrate and the gluten to relax.

2. To make the pasta filling: Place a sauté pan over low heat and add olive oil along with the diced onion. Season the onion with salt and sweat it until tender. Add garlic and sauté for another minute. Add the

radicchio and sauté a few minutes more, until the radicchio is tender. Allow this mixture to cool slightly so you can pour it out onto a cutting board and chop it into smaller pieces. Combine the sautéed radicchio mixture with the ricotta, Parmesan, and black pepper in a bowl and mix, adjusting the seasoning as you wish.

3. To shape the pasta: Cut the dough into 4 pieces and roll it out until you can see the outline of your hand through the dough. Using a spoon or a piping bag, dot about 1 Tbsp. of the radicchio-ricotta mixture, running down the middle of the dough, spaced about 2 inches apart. Fold the top half of the dough lengthwise toward you, over the ricotta and dust the dough with the semolina. Working from left to right, slowly run your fingertips along the dough while pressing down to seal the pasta and work the air out of the filling. Use a knife or pasta cutter to cut the tortelli into squares. Place the shaped pasta onto a parchment-lined sheet pan dusted with semolina.

4. To assemble: Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Place a saucepan over medium heat and add butter, toasted hazelnuts, and sage. When the butter starts to foam, stir with a wooden spoon or spatula, lightly scraping the bottom of the pan until the butter turns to a golden amber brown. Remove saucepan from heat and immediately add extra-virgin olive oil. Add radicchio and a pinch of salt and stir until just wilted. Drop your tortelli into the boiling water and cook 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, carefully scoop out the tortelli and add to the saucepan. It’s okay if some water makes its way into the pan! Adding a couple spoonfuls of the pasta water will help your butter sauce emulsify and become creamy. Finish the sauce with a squeeze of lemon juice. Spoon the tortelli and sauce onto a plate and garnish with grated parmesan and lemon zest.

Chicory Salad with Anchovy Vinaigrette and Torn Croutons

The bold flavor of chicories can stand up to the punchy, garlicky, funky, briny vinaigrette. “Hands-down, my favorite rendition of a Caesar salad,” says Mariani.

SERVES 6

VINAIGRETTE:

1 clove garlic

10 small anchovy filets

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

¼ cup red wine vinegar

Juice of half a lemon

2 pinches kosher salt

About 10 turns of black pepper in a grinder

¾ cup olive oil

Kosher salt

SALAD:

½ day-old loaf of levain

½ cup (or more) olive oil

Kosher salt

Black pepper

3 heads mixed chicories, torn Chunk of Parmesan, finely grated

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Pound the garlic to a paste with a mortar and pestle. Add anchovies and pound again.

Add the mustard, vinegar, lemon, salt, and pepper and stir to combine. Transfer to a small bowl. Stir in the olive oil and taste. Adjust seasoning as you wish.

2. To make the croutons, use your hands to tear the bread into bite-size pieces and place them in a mixing bowl. Drizzle the bread with a generous amount of olive oil, about ½ cup, a pinch of salt and some black pepper, and toss it around until fully coated. Lay the croutons out on a parchment-lined sheet tray and bake them for about 20 minutes, checking and rotating them halfway through.

3. To assemble the salad: Toss chicories with salt and pepper, a few tablespoons of vinaigrette, a big handful of Parmesan, and the torn croutons.

Chicory Salad with Winter Citrus, Avocado and Fennel Vinaigrette

“When I think of a classic ‘California winter’ salad, this is what comes to mind. It celebrates how special California is. Our coldest season is still amazing.”

SERVES 6

½ shallot diced

1 tsp. fennel seeds, toasted and roughly ground

1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar

Juice and zest of 1 orange

Salt

2–3 Tbsp. olive oil

3 heads mixed chicories, torn

1 head fennel, shaved

Pepper

1 blood orange, peeled and cut into half-inch thick segments

1 grapefruit, peeled and segmented

1 avocado

1. To make the vinaigrette: Combine shallot, fennel seeds, vinegar, and orange juice and zest in a small bowl and let it rest 5 minutes to macerate. Add a pinch of salt and the olive oil and taste to adjust.

2. To build the salad: Toss the chicories and fennel with salt and pepper and a few spoonfuls of the vinaigrette. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Top with citrus segments and some tablespoon-sized scoops of avocado. Drizzle more dressing over the avocado and citrus, and enjoy!

Chicories with Dates, Parmesan and Walnut Vinaigrette

“This salad is all about texture. The crispy chicories, jammy dates, and crunchy walnuts are very satisfying.”

SERVES 6

½ cup toasted walnuts

¼ cup olive oil

½ shallot, diced

2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

Salt Pepper

3 heads mixed chicories, cleared and torn

2 stalks celery, thinly sliced

1. To make the dressing: Pound half the toasted walnuts with a mortar and pestle until just broken down (you don’t want this to be a paste). Alternatively, finely chop the walnuts. Place the broken-down walnuts and olive oil in a small sauce pot and warm them over low

heat for a few minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. This will allow more of that walnut flavor to permeate the dressing.

2. While the oil is resting, combine shallot, vinegar, mustard, and a pinch of salt and pepper in a small bowl. Add the walnut oil and taste the dressing for seasoning.

3. To build the salad: Combine the chicories and celery in a bowl with some salt and pepper, the rest of the reserved walnuts, and a few spoonfuls of the vinaigrette. Toss the salad, taste, and adjust seasonings accordingly.

Grilled Treviso with Pancetta Vinaigrette

“Radicchio is an incredibly versatile ingredient in the kitchen. I love the way the outer leaves crisp up on the grill, and the inner leaves get perfectly tender.”

SERVES 4

4 oz. pancetta, cut into ¼-inch cubes

1 small shallot

1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

Salt and black pepper to taste

2 large heads radicchio di Treviso

1. Cook the pancetta on low to medium heat until it is golden brown and crispy. Strain into a small bowl, reserving the fat in the pan. Mince the shallot and add to the pan with the cooking fat. Sauté on low heat until translucent and tender. Add the chopped thyme and cook

until just fragrant. Pour the shallot mixture into the bowl with the pancetta and add olive oil, sherry vinegar, mustard, and a pinch of salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Whisk together and taste for seasoning. Depending on how much fat the pancetta rendered, you may need to add more vinegar.

2. Heat a grill to medium. Cut the Treviso lengthwise into quarters. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Grill until the leaves are lightly charred and the core is tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Arrange on a serving platter and generously pour the vinaigrette on top.

Escarole Galette with Black Olives and Pine Nuts

“Flaky, salty, and decadent. I love the earthy, briny, and sweet flavor combination in this savory tart.”

SERVES 6

TART DOUGH

2 cups all-purpose flour

¼ tsp. salt

12 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and chilled

6 Tbsp. ice water

Combine flour and salt in a medium bowl. Using your hands or a pastry cutter, break down the chilled butter in the flour until the butter resembles pea-size pieces. Add ice water and use a fork to combine. Use your hands to bring it together into one mostly uniform ball of dough, but be sure to not overwork it, to prevent the gluten from developing. Cut dough into two pieces, wrap in plastic and put the dough in the refrigerator to chill for at least 1 hour. Place the second disc of dough in the freezer if you don’t plan to use it right away.

FILLING

1 head escarole

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, sliced

4 anchovies, chopped

3 Tbsp. Scribe verjus

2 Tbsp. dried currants

1 Tbsp. capers, drained and chopped

2 Tbsp. cured black olives, pitted and sliced

2 Tbsp. pine nuts

1 disc Tart Dough (see below)

1 egg, beaten

Perfect Pairings

We selected the ideal bottles to serve with this menu, and it’s available to members of our wine club. Sign up for quarterly deliveries of the best wines in the West at sunset.com/wineclub

1. Preheat oven to 375°F.

2. Wash and slice the escarole into 2-inch pieces. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat with the olive oil. Once the oil is shimmering, add onion and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in anchovies, breaking up the pieces with a spatula. Once the anchovy is incorporated, add escarole and stir until starting to wilt. Let the escarole cook down with the onions until very tender. Remove from the pan and set aside to cool.

3. While the escarole is cooling, prepare the currants. Heat up Scribe verjus in a small pot over low heat. (If you don’t have verjus, you can substitute equal parts red wine vinegar and water.) Add currants to the warm verjus and rehydrate for 5 minutes. Strain the currants and discard the liquid.

4. In a medium bowl, mix together the cooled escarole mixture, chopped capers, sliced olives, and pine nuts.

5. Roll out one portion of Tart Dough to a 12-inch circle. Spread the filling onto the dough, leaving a 2-inch border. Fold the border up over the filling to create the crust. Brush the crust with the beaten egg and bake 45 minutes.

Petite Sirah

Lake County

The savory nature of the Escarole Galette meets its match with the inky, earthy Petite Sirah. And the briney black olive flavor is forefront in both the food and wine.

Sauvignon

Columbia Valley

The plum flavors accentuate the fruit in the Chicories with Dates while the tannins cut the parm’s richness.

The added bitterness of the grilled treviso contrasts the ripe, sweet fruit of the wine. The juicy wine refreshes the palate after each salty punch of pancetta.

2020 Cloudview Contra Costa

2019 Revelry Vintners Cabernet

2019 Clay Shannon

Columbia Valley Washington

A dish like the Chicory Salad with Anchovy Vinaigrette needs a wine to meet its intensity. The bright peppery nature of the wine brings out more flavor in the dish.

2020 Avennia Lydian GSM

Savor the Santa Ynez Valley

With six superlative towns, top flight wines, the coolest culinary scene on the coast, all against a backdrop of rolling hills, “the SYV” is the ultimate Central Coast California getaway

here’s a reason we regularly feature the restaurants, hotels, design-forward homes, and wineries of the Santa Ynez Valley in the pages of Sunset : it’s a region that uniquely manages to pack major California country vibes and a big dose of city sophistication into its towns and rolling hills, making it a picture perfect getaway for travelers of every taste. Situated just 35 minutes north of Santa Barbara, an easy two-hour drive from Los Angeles, and four hours from San Francisco, the Santa Ynez Valley is a food and wine lover’s paradise, and then some. With six diverse and distinct towns—Danish-themed Solvang, country chic Santa Ynez, bucolic Ballard, charming Buellton, foodie hotspot Los Alamos, and vinous wonderland Los Olivos— “the SYV” abounds with more enticing culinary, cultural and outdoor adventures than you can fit into a single visit… or in a single issue of the magazine! But we’ll try…

Here’s a short list of of all you can dive into on a vacation: Horseback ride through vineyards, hike in the Los Padres National Forest, bike winding country roads, walk to rushing waterfalls, feed ostriches, visit organic farms, taste artisanal olive oils, soar above it all on a hot air balloon ride or zip line tour—and attend lively festivals including the region’s signature food and wine festival Taste of the Santa Ynez Valley, happening September 28 through October 1.

Over the years the region has rightly earned a reputation as one of the best destinations for food and wine. You could build an entire trip out of simply

dining at Michelin-approved eateries such as Bar Le Côte, Bell’s, Coast Range, First & Oak, and peasants FEAST. Each of these restaurants serves world-class food, but with a down home hospitality that’s truly SYV. And wine lovers know that the Santa Ynez Valley has all the elements of a world-class wine growing region thanks to its warm days and cool nights courtesy of the evening maritime influence from the nearby Pacific Ocean. Everyone from the casual sipper to the vinously obsessed can sip award-winning vintages, discover new varietals, and meet rising star winemakers at the 150 wineries spread throughout the valley.

The abundance of hotel and resort options will ensure you turn the SYV into your home away from home: With 37 lodging properties, you’re sure to find one that fits your taste and budget (we’ve got a few in this year’s Sunset Travel Awards!). Whether it’s the upscale down home luxury of The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern, the cool country scene at Hotel Ynez, or the Danish Modern vibe of The Landsby, each property captures the valley’s singular sense of place with a distinct personality. So now you know how to book, sip, and savor the Santa Ynez Valley!

TRAVEL & ESCAPES

Travel Awards

Hot hotels, new and classic restaurants, and the top destinations and activities from the desert to the coast—these are the 125 best ways to experience the West now.

Where to Stay P.60

Where to Eat and Drink

P.72

Where to Go P.76

What to Do P.80

How to Get There P.83

This year marks our biggest pool of entrants in the history of the Sunset Travel Awards and definitively marks the full-fledged return to travel in the West after a couple of rocky years. We’re thrilled to see that from the coast to the mountains to the deserts and beyond, travel is as dynamic and varied and vibrant as ever. Hotels and resorts are offering high design and superlative service at every price point in every region. Wineries, restaurants, distilleries, and shops are serving up drinks and food that reflect the diversity of regional cuisines and approaches to the craft. And folks across the hospitality industry have welcomed Western travelers back with open arms. To coincide with our 125th anniversary, this year we’re honoring 125 worthy winners of the 2023 Sunset Travel Awards. Congratulations to one and all!

WHERE TO

STAY

STAY

From historical hotels to mod motels to superlative spas, these properties represent the pinnacle of lodging in the West.

BEST COASTAL GEMS

Nick’s Cove

With recently restored cozy cottages over the water, a restaurant serving dishes made with ingredients sourced from the Marin countryside and Tomales Bay, and serene sunsets, this century-old property is possibly the dreamiest chic-meets-quaint coastal getaway in California.

The

Edgewater

Built for the 1962 World’s Fair, this is the only over-water hotel in Seattle. Channeling its rock-and-roll past (the Beatles and Nirvana stayed here), with amazing views of Elliot Bay, and the excellent Six Seven restaurant offering bayside dining, it’s the quintessential seaside Seattle hotel.

El Encanto

One of the most refined and elegant hotels in the West, this 100-year-old property exudes elegance and refinement. Luxurious yet understated rooms offer indulgent bedding, marble bathrooms, and private porches, all set on a graciously rambling property perched high in the hills above Santa Barbara. The view from the pool is among the best coastal panoramas in California.

Zachari Dunes on Mandalay Beach

This hacienda-style all-suite resort in super-chill Oxnard, in Ventura County, just might be the biggest bang for buck beachside resort getaway in Southern California. With 250 rooms, an Airstream snack shack, and easy access to the central coast, it’s the newest uncrowded beach escape for Angelenos.

Hotel Californian

This 1925 property was given a Moorish interior update and now stands among the most dramatic hotel renovations in Santa Barbara. With a Turkish spa, a rooftop pool with stunning views of the coast, and multiple restaurants and bars offering craft cocktails and Cal-Med food, this is the SB spot to book.

The Cape, a Thompson Hotel

This slick, modern Cabo San Lucas hotel is a showstopper from the moment you set foot into the lobby, where you’re greeted with dramatic vistas of ancient granite formations that make up one of the West’s greatest surf breaks. For those who would rather stay on shore, the infinity pool and luxe rooftop bar do not disappoint.

Timber Cove Resort

Perched on a Pacific Ocean bluff on 25 acres of breathtaking Sonoma coastline, this legendary boho-luxe resort boasts 1960s architecture, rooms with throwback mid-mod furniture and turntables, restaurants serving food and wines from the surrounding Sonoma countryside, and spectacular views.

The Shore House at The Del

The historic 130-year-old Hotel Del Coronado in San Diego has upgraded its southern end with a brand-new luxury residential-style resort experience: 75 seaside villas, an oceanfront pool, private cabanas, and a grand common space create a next-level exclusive enclave.

The Rosewood Miramar Beach

A true coastal gem, this sprawling 16acre luxury resort offers guests an immersive taste of Montecito living with

This retro-chic beachy property is the perfect pit stop along your trip up Highway 1, complete with a sizable pool, pet-friendly rooms, and a restaurant that serves some of the best margs in town.

Wayfinder Waikiki

The Leta

seven restaurants and bars (including the Michelin-starred Caruso’s), topnotch fitness studio and stunning spa, cabana-lined pools, and cosseting beach service.

Surfrider

Access to the stunning, guests-only rooftop bar overlooking the PCH and Malibu’s Surfrider Beach is enough of a reason to book, but the current coastal design, free surf and SUP boards, and incredible coconut margaritas really make this intimate, 20-room hotel feel like your own private beach house.

The Georgian

The only things more iconic than the turquoise façade of this 1933 Art Deco building in Santa Monica are the guests who have stayed over the years, including Charlie Chaplin, Clark Gable, and Marilyn Monroe. A top-tobottom renovation draws inspiration from that era of Hollywood glam, adding luxe touches like golden-hued arched headboards, the softest Italian bedding, and an ornate lobby entrance worthy of a Wes Anderson film.

Malibu Beach Inn

It doesn’t get more quintessentially Californian than this oceanfront hotel situated on Carbon Beach, just a quick skip to the Getty Villa and incredible hiking in the Santa Monica Mountains. If the sound of the waves weren’t enough to lull you to sleep, the master suites are outfitted with Sleep Number mattresses that track sleep pattern, heart rate, and breathing, making for a truly rejuvenating night’s rest.

Wayfinder Waikiki

This new boutique lifestyle property is outfitted with supremely adorable surf-y decor that authentically nods to the diverse local tapestry of Honolulu. Plus there’s a restaurant from the island’s iconic poke grocer, Foodland.

Drift SB

With properties in Palm Springs and Cabo, the Drift group has mastered Western minimalism, which carries through to this recently redone 1920s building in downtown Santa Barbara that includes multiple eateries and Mediterranean touches that nod to the area’s Spanish rancho history.

The Georgian FROM TOP: DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN; ERIN FEINBLATT

BEST WELLNESS GETAWAYS

Nobu Ryokan

This serene, high-design escape on one of the world’s most exclusive stretches of Billionaires’ Beach in Malibu has teak soaking tubs, indoor-outdoor fireplaces, and Japanese-inspired carpentry that will make you feel like you’re a lifetime away from the stress of the city.

Sensei Porcupine Creek

The new 230-acre wellness retreat in Rancho Mirage, California, focuses on integrating mindset, nutrition, and fitness, serving up the ultimate antidote to the hurried outside world. It’s a bucket-list destination for any spa lover.

Estancia La Jolla Hotel & Spa

This lushly landscaped intimate retreat in La Jolla has rooms overlooking the gardens, a pool to beat the heat, a game library to help while away the time, and restaurants offering modern Mexican and produce-first California cooking.

Fresh off a $40 million renovation, this 42,000-square-foot resort is set amid the striking landscape and towering red rocks of Sedona’s Boynton Canyon and includes a sensory garden, a two-story fitness studio, and a reflexology path.

Dunton Hot Springs

This mining town turned luxury spa getaway offers a uniquely serene experience among the aspens of Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, with rustic-luxe cabins, a glamping tent, and its own saloon. It’s the perfect escape for nature and adventure lovers.

Mii Amo

Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Spring

Retro style meets relaxation at this newly renovated oldschool wellness retreat in Calistoga. Think restorative mud bath and spa treatments, and healing mineral pool soaks. And the chic midcentury-inspired guestrooms are the perfect place to nap before you treat and repeat.

ROADSIDE LODGING

High

Country Motor Lodge

This new motor lodge off Route 66 in Flagstaff melds vintage style, contemporary design, and an adventurous spirit. Book in for a soak in the Nordic Spa, sure to relieve tired bodies after a long road trip. Afterward, sip a craft cocktail by the firepits, or challenge your travel buddy to a round of pool or foosball in the game room.

Calistoga

Motor Lodge

This funky motor lodge inspired by the great American Road Trip has hula hoops, board games, and cruiser bikes, but the real draw is the mineral water that made this area a famous Napa Valley wellness destination. Soak in a private clawfoot tub filled with geothermal waters and get playful with a DIY mud painting, detoxing from a day of wine tasting.

Americana

Motor Hotel

Built in 1962, this kitschy Arizona motel designed by Andrew Alford is a one hour drive to either Grand Canyon National Park or the Sunset Crater Volcano. The vibrant, retro roadside retreat even has “dive in” movies, where guests can watch films from the pool, making it the perfect pit stop.

Vintages

Trailer Resort

Tuck into a truly nostalgic trip in Oregon’s Willamette Valley at this park featuring 36 fully restored Airstreams, some of which are outfitted with soaking tubs. The grounds’ amenities include outdoor grills, cruiser bikes, a swimming pool, and fire pits. There’s also an on-site general store stocked with locally made goods and libations.

Egyptian

Motor Hotel

A historic hotel located in Phoenix’s vibrant Arts District for over 70 years, the recent remodel brings traditional rooms and outfitted Airstreams, both of which come stocked with throwback amenities like Marshall Bluetooth speakers, retro refrigerators, and complimentary acoustic guitars to strum by the outdoor firepits.

Vintages Trailer Resort

Nobu Ryokan

BEST LUXURY RESORTS

San Ysidro Ranch

Churchill, Kennedy, Bieber: These are just a few of the esteemed guests drawn to this storied 550-acre haven of luxury cottages in the Santa Ynez foothills, known for offering privacy, exceptional dining, and stunning grounds. A California classic.

Bishop’s Lodge

A quintessential Santa Fe experience located on 317 secluded acres bordering national forest and just minutes from downtown. Here guests can ride horses, fly fish, elegantly dine, and enjoy exceptional wines on this sprawling, sun-kissed adobe property.

Alila Ventana Big Sur

Perched on the edge of the continent overlooking the Pacific among oldgrowth redwoods, this low-key luxury retreat channels all the history and grandeur of this storied region. An exquisite taste of Big Sur.

Waldorf Astoria Los Cabos

One of the stars of Cabo San Lucas, the resort offers guests access to Mexico’s only privately owned beach, villas with private plunge pools, an awardwinning spa, signature restaurants, and immersive off-property experiences in the water and nearby countryside.

Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay

The Bay Area’s only oceanfront resort has one of the most impressive coastal views in Northern California, whether you’re in an oceanside room, on the award-winning golf course overlooking the Pacific, or dining on the patio. Don’t miss the nightly ritual of watching the sunset as a bagpiper plays.

Bishop’s Lodge FROM TOP: THE RITZ-CARLTON, HALF MOON BAY; AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION

BEST CITY STAYS

The Graduate Palo Alto

Just blocks from Stanford University, inside what was formerly the historic Hotel President, the newly opened Graduate layers maximalist design with bones of the building’s 1920s Spanish Colonial architecture. Far from your typical college bar, the rooftop offers spirits-forward craft cocktails to be savored while watching the sunset over Palo Alto.

Thompson Denver

This hot hotel is located in Lodo, a hip ‘hood chock full of trendy restaurants, bars, and the Insta-famous immersive installation Meow Wolf. The rooftop bar, Reynard Social, boasts sweeping views of both the city and the Rockies, and the downstairs brasserie, Chez Maggy, helmed by chef Ludo Lefebvre, is well worth a visit, too.

Kimpton La Peer

This art-driven, stylish property in the heart of WeHo’s design district clearly reflects the vibe of its neighborhood, with airy communal spaces adorned with exquisitely curated art. On weekends you can play pickleball on the rooftop while a D.J. lays down tracks to set the pace.

Pendry West Hollywood

The tone for your stay is immediately set upon walking into the ultra-slick, modern hotel lobby, which includes an oversize piece of LED art by Anthony James. That air of high-end Hollywood glam is made complete while sipping champagne on the rooftop at one of Wolfgang Puck’s restaurants while doing some of the city’s most impressive people watching.

Orli La Jolla

The Hotel Chaco

This sleek addition to Albuquerque’s lodging options was architecturally inspired by the Chaco Canyon UNESCO World Heritage Site and combines cutting-edge design and sustainability. Rooms with balconies and the Southwestern-themed rooftop restaurant and bar Level 5 serve up equally spectacular views.

The Beacon Grand

The iconic Sir Francis Drake Hotel in San Francisco has been reborn after extensive renovation and lives up to its name in grandeur, with a dose of modern style. The guestrooms and public spaces pay homage to its past with an elegant and chic nod to the future: with whimsical custom wallpaper and lush rich blues and oak, and cocktail-centric dining options.

A unique combination of residential perfection and modern hospitality in a beautifully restored 1910-era residence originally designed by Irving Gill. With just 13 design-forward rooms, Orli offers an intimate and personalized experience, complete with yoga events, a music series, and easy access to the best restaurants and shops in La Jolla.

The Beacon Grand

TOP: PAUL DYER PHOTOGRAPHY; WILLIAM EDWARDS/ORLI LA JOLLA

BEST LODGING FOR NATURE LOVERS

Camp V

This classed-up Colorado campsite brings Burning Man to you with a truly unique combination of inspired art, history, architecture, design, recreation, and community-building housed in a combo of cabins, yurts, and converted Airstreams. Located on what was formerly a historic mining town built in 1942, the owners have transformed it into an incredible desert escape.

Hotel Boulderado

Surrounded by the majesty of the Rockies in the heart of downtown Boulder, this historic landmark built in 1909 sings of its Victorian heritage and modern mountain style. The decidedly charming hotel is also home to live jazz nights and a speakeasy named License No. 1, given its name for being one of Boulder’s first liquor licenses after local prohibition ended in 1967.

Ulum

In a category all its own is this new, allsuite resort located just steps from Looking Glass Arch in Moab offers a nature-adjacent stay where you truly won’t ever have to leave the property. (Of course, if you do, you’re within reach of the West’s most iconic landscapes for mountain biking, hiking, and canyoneering.) From check-in, it’s next level glamping luxe, with hot and cold dipping pools, upscale all-day dining, firepits, and a yoga deck.

Under Canvas North Yellowstone

Located in one of the most idyllic locations in the West, this National Park–adjacent escape has the Yellowstone River flowing right through it, providing more than a mile of private access to world-class fly fishing. There’s also horseback riding, river floats, hiking tours, and whitewater rafting on offer through their on-site Adventure Concierge.

Alyeska Resort

You don’t have to fly to Sweden to get a dose of Nordic cozy. This alpine sanctuary in Girdwood, Alaska is just 40 minutes from Anchorage and includes outdoor cold and warm hydrotherapy pools, barrel saunas, massage rooms, a full-service café, and various wellness treatments.

Autocamp Zion

Zion is one of the most spectacular places in the world, and Autocamp Zion is its most spectacular place to stay. New this season, this outpost of the acclaimed Airstream chainlet is absolutely worth all the hype.

Dunton River Camp

This southwest Colorado site could hardly be considered camping. Just steps from the Dolores River, the downright luxurious accommodations offer spacious safari-style tents, plus a new bar and lodge where you can cozy up by the fire or play a game of pool.

Marina Riviera

This lakefront lodge in Big Bear is a stylish alpine getaway. Inspired by Viking lodges and decked out with cozy fireplaces, each room oozes with hygge. Bonus: It’s within walking distance to Big Bear Village and within reach of the surrounding wooded wilderness.

SCP Redmond

Soul, community, and planet (hence SCP) are at the heart of this eco- and benefit-minded hotel brand. Its downtown Redmond, Oregon, outpost is as much stylish sustainable co-working space as it is home base for adventurers looking to explore Smith Rock State Park and the area’s world-class golf resorts, lakes, rivers, and trails.

Gravity Haus Breckenridge

This laid-back, sustainable, pet-friendly ski-in/ski-out hotel at the base of Breckenridge Mountain prioritizes low waste and high style. Indulge in the dry sauna, soaking tubs, or a zeroemission coffee après-ski.

Yonder Escalante

Airstreams, cabins, campsites, drive-in theater, a pool, and other quirky comforts make this 20-acre resort a one-of-a-kind hospitality experience in southern Utah’s Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument.

Desolation Hotel

Japanese and Scandinavian meet in this serene South Lake Tahoe hotel that combines nature and luxury. Think soaking tubs on private balconies, indoor fireplaces, and kitchenettes with Bertazzoni gas ranges.

Washington School House

This stunning converted 1898 schoolhouse in Salt Lake City offers 12 spectacular suites and rooms, a chic ski lounge, personal ski valet, a heated pool, private chef, and 24-hour concierge service. The embodiment of mountain luxury.

Dunton River Camp

BEST WINE COUNTRY ESCAPES

Hotel Ynez

This charming Santa Ynez escape is situated on two acres studded with live oak trees, gardens, and bonfire pits. With plush bedding, DIY BBQ kits delivered to your door, and vintage touches throughout, it’s the definitive spot to spend your time in wine country.

The Genevieve

Elegant and polished yet un-stuffy, this Victorian-style boutique inn in Santa Ynez has an incredibly impressive whiskey library for those looking for a break from vino. The stay is first-class from the start, with champagne at check-in, a candy station for noshing, and a gourmet restaurant with top-notch brekkie to fuel you for a day of tasting.

Tributary Hotel

Built within the historic Taylor Dale building, this fastidiously restored eight-room inn in McMinnville, Oregon, radiates old-world charm. Think dramatic fireplaces, exposed brick walls, oak beams, and amenities crafted by Pacific Northwest artists. Don’t skip dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, ōkta, where chef-partner Matthew Lightner shares the bounty of the property’s farm in his innovative menus and incredible in-room breakfast service.

Meadowood Napa Valley

This iconic, exclusive resort of cottages nestled in wine country has literally risen from the ashes after the restaurant and other parts of the property were destroyed by the Glass Fire in 2020. And it’s better than ever, with Howard Backen–designed restaurant Forum, expanded wellness and tennis programs, and revived Wine Center.

Stanly Ranch

Napa Valley’s latest luxe retreat improves upon the wine country resort with modern cabins surrounded by vines, multiple pools, a Scandi-meetsCalifornia-cuisine restaurant with a top-shelf bar and an on-site vegetable garden. Add bespoke local outings and this property encapsulates all that we love about wine country.

Four Seasons Resort and Residences

Located on a working vineyard near Calistoga, the Four Seasons is a refined experience thanks to its suites, villas, and private residences that raise the bar on rustic luxury. Add multiple restaurants, pools, and holistic spa treatments and the wine country retreat gets more refined.

Four Seasons Resort and Residences The Genevieve

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MEADOWOOD NAPA VALLEY; THE GENEVIEVE; DON RIDDLE

Francis House

Imagine you had a private manor in the Napa Valley and you’re close to envisioning what Francis House in Calistoga is all about. This seven-room hotel offers luxury accommodations for travelers looking for a communal experience with daily shared meals, an on-site spa, and expansive grounds allowing for a serene, right-sized respite.

The Landsby

In Solvang, a town known for its throwback Danish heritage, Scandinavian modernism is alive and well at this boutique hotel. All the rooms are well appointed, but try to book a suite with a patio on the restaurant courtyard for a lovely indoor-outdoor experience.

Skyview Los Alamos

With views of the vineyards of the Santa Ynez Valley and the foodie town of Los Alamos, this revived hilltop motel offers private patios, a pool, and a restaurant featuring local produce and wines and craft cocktails. It’s the perfect balance of a groovy mid-century modern aesthetic and country charm.

RAD RANCHES

The Green O

This Montana miniresort really leans into luxury. Situated on 37,000 pristine acres of mountains, rivers, and meadows, the cabins are a subsection of Paws Up that blends rustic charm with modern touches for undisturbed, adultsonly romance.

Magee Homestead

Nestled among sagebrush and meadows in Saratoga, Wyoming, this authentic dude ranch offers rejuvenating experiences for the body and soul and plenty of outdoor adventure. The picturesque property is the perfect spot for fly fishing, cattle wrangling, archery—a true taste of the Old West.

Brasada Ranch

Offering panoramic views of the Cascade Range on nearly 2,000 acres this is an ideal stay for those seeking diverse luxury accommodations. Located just 30 minutes from Bend, the ranch features activities like horseback riding, golf, swimming, hiking, and more.

Alisal Ranch

Sited on 10,500 acres in California’s Santa Ynez Valley, Alisal offers a throwback take on the American West. Here guests can stargaze, learn the secrets of barbecue, canoe on a 100-acre lake, or unwind with a massage after a horseback ride or day on one of the two championship golf courses.

Magee Homestead

Alisal Ranch

RIGHT, FROM TOP: TEAL THOMSEN; BRUSH CREEK RANCH

WHERE TO

EAT and DRINK

EAT and DRINK

Restaurants, cocktail lounges, bars, and wineries have never been better, and these establishments have raised the bar on dining and drinking.

BEST CRAFT COCKTAILS

The Copper Room at the Yucca Valley Airport

From the folks behind the legendary Pioneertown Motel and Red Dog Saloon, this bar with a view of the tarmac and throwback ‘70s pilot-on-holiday vibes might be the coolest new bar in the desert. Excellent cocktails and food round out the formula for a topflight high-desert evening.

Botanist

Inspired by all that is botanical in the Pacific Northwest, this refined restaurant and cocktail bar in Vancouver takes the craft of the cocktail very seriously and has won just about every possible award and honor in the business. The plant-filled space is a verdant backdrop for the achievements of the bar and culinary team.

Room for Milly

Channel your wanderlust at this Denver speakeasy inspired by globetrotting 1920s socialite Milly Parker, where the selection of cocktails tell the story of a bygone era. The space is decidedly more swank than what you might expect of the Mile High city—a welcome addition to the scene.

Reynard Social

This expansive Denver rooftop bar is themed around a fox called Reynard from European folklore. In the spirit of the adorable and mischievous critter, who’s woven throughout the art and decor, you can get into all sorts of fun trouble atop the Thompson Denver, from hobnobbing with well-heeled locals to perusing the bar’s extensive record collection.

Room for Milly

Botanist

BEST RESTAURANTS

Hansei at the Japanese Cultural Center

Hansei translates to “self-reflection” in Japanese, and chef Chris Ono does exactly that with his modern interpretation of L.A. Nikkei cuisine, translating his experience as a Japanese-American Angeleno into a three-course menu enjoyed in the tranquil garden oasis hidden in the heart of Little Tokyo.

Merois West Hollywood

It’s practically impossible to go wrong with a Wolfgang Puck restaurant, especially when you’ve got views like those at Merois, located on the top of the ultra-chic and pleasantly sceney Pendry Hotel. You’ll find Puck’s signature Asian fusion cuisine, including crispy rice crab salad and scallop pad Thai.

Aphotic

With an emphasis on sustainable aquaculture, this stellar new seafood-focused spot in San Francisco offers guests an exquisite tasting menu and bar program celebrating the foraged and fished bounty of the Western seaboard.

Chez Maggy

Cozy up to authentic bistro fare from celeb chef Ludo Lefebvre in the bright, airy Thompson Denver lobby restaurant where the people watching is as prime as the LoDo location itself.

The Lark

A pioneer in Santa Barbara’s now white-hot Funk Zone, this restaurant, which takes its name from the overnight Pullman train that served the city from 1910 to 1968, is celebrating its tenth anniversary of showcasing the Central Coast’s bounty.

Pomella

This Oakland-based Israeli spot offers vibrant food drawing from Middle

Eastern, North African, Mediterranean, and Eastern European flavors, but starring pristine local produce. The comeas-you-are vibe and convivial team make it a gem of Oakland’s charming Piedmont Avenue neighborhood.

The Goldener Hirsch Restaurant

This Park City restaurant blends Bavarian specialties with regional mountain cooking. Expect refined

après-ski sustenance like four-cheese fondue, crispy Wiener schnitzel, and apple strudel. This is updated oldschool mountain dining at its best.

Bodega SF

At this San Francisco restaurant, Matthew Ho evolves northern Vietnamese with dishes such as Viet-Cajun gambas and kale-avocado salad with nuoc mam in an energetic setting.

Bodega SF

Bivouac Ciderworks

Situated in the ultra-hip North Park nabe of San Diego, this woman-owned cidery provides a nice foil to the beer-focused scene in this part of SoCal. There’s also a notable restaurant on site serving simpatico bar bites like cider-battered shrimp (which happens to be gluten-free) and polenta tots with spicy ranch.

BEST TASTING FLIGHTS

Presqu’ile Winery

If nuanced, cold-climate Pinot Noir is your jam, this family-owned winery in the Santa Maria Valley is a must. For the quintessential bucolic-vineyard experience, pull off the 101 to their hilltop lounge, where you’ll nibble on mezze made from their on-site organic garden while tasting world-class wines.

Benny Boy Brewing

Husband-and-wife team Chelsey Rosetter and Benny Farber created the coolest outdoor tasting experience at their cidery in L.A.’s Lincoln Heights, where they host fall apple pressing and pop-up food trucks. Don’t miss the seasonal release of their excellent Pippin Pommeau, which tastes like the holidays in a glass.

Benny Boy Brewing

FROM TOP: KAT HANEGRAAF; JAMIE SOUTHERLAND

WINE COUNTRY RESTAURANTS

The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern

A newcomer to Los Olivos, this upscale inn is also home to some of the Santa Ynez Valley’s most delightful dining experiences: wood-fired meat and produce at the Tavern, classic cocktails at the cozy Bar, and craft coffee at Felix Feed & Coffee.

BEST SHOPS AND BAKERIES

Quail & Condor

Run by Michelin-pedigreed chefs Melissa Yanc and Sean McGaughey, this thrilling bakery serves goods made from naturally leavened dough, croissants, and unique desserts crafted from Northern California’s finest produce, dairy, and game.

Troubadour Bread and Bistro

Just up the street from its sister bakery Quail & Condor is this one stop culinary shop. You’ll find coffee and fresh baked bread in the morning, francophile sandwiches for lunch, and a prixfixe French bistro at night at this unassuming boulangerie. Don’t miss out on the

perfectly done canelés, which will whisk you right back to France.

Bob’s Well Bread

A hub of the Santa Ynez Valley, Bob’s bakes up the valley’s best boules each morning for its two indooroutdoor cafés serving the area—the original in Los Alamos and a second in Ballard.

Marin French Cheese Co.

The country’s oldest cheese company produces exceptional cheese but is also a community hub and destination in and of itself, with a property home to myriad farm animals, a vegetable garden, an elementary school, and a fire station.

Hitching Post 2

Fans of Sideways will recognize this famed Pinot purveyor, which serves up some of the best Santa Maria–style barbecue in the region. Grab a glass of Cork Dancer, a whole grilled artichoke, and a cut of the valley’s finest beef and enjoy the view.

Bar Le Côte

With stylish design and a menu that marries the produce and seafood of the Central Coast, this is the coolest new restaurant to open in Los Olivos. The whole fish is a mustorder, and the wine list always includes gems from wineries in the surrounding Santa Ynez Valley.

Frank Ostini at Hitching Post 2

The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern

Marin French Cheese Co.

Troubadour Bread and Bistro

WHERE TO

GO GO

Anchorage

The gateway to Alaska’s expanse of nature, Anchorage is surrounded by six soaring mountain ranges and access to nearly 2,000 square miles of glaciers, trails, and mountains. While it’s an incredible spot to visit in the summer, winter is also an excellent time to plan a stay with their annual Alaska Native arts market, snow sculpture competitions, and Running of the Reindeer events.

Victoria, B.C.

Green and positively gorgeous, the capital of British Columbia is a prime spot for urban adventure with its eclectic mix of outdoorsy activities like whale watching, exploring the blooms in Butchart Gardens, or hiking in oldgrowth rainforests. For refined city dwellers, there are world-class collections at museums worth exploring, and one of the country’s most authentic high-tea services at the Fairmont Empress.

Just a quick two-hour drive from Los Angeles, Santa Barbara is so much more than a college town. Rightfully known as the “American Riviera,” it has a Mediterranean coastal aesthetic and climate that, paired with a quirky bohemian charm, results in a destination worth visiting again and again.

Greater Palm Springs

BEST CITY GETAWAYS

Oakland

A diverse cultural hub in the heart of the Bay Area, Oakland has a decidedly artistic vibe amplified by the surrounding natural scenery, countless local parks, multicultural cuisine, and vibrant maker community, making it the ideal vacay for all ages.

Oceanside

O’side has been on the come-up as of late, with restaurants like Heritage BBQ and Homestate setting up shop in this historic surf community alongside new boutique hotels, Michelin-recognized restaurants, and storied surfboard shapers.

San Luis Obispo

Located halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco along the Central Coast, SLO exudes California’s quintessentially laid-back vibe with its independent wineries, ample areas for hiking and cycling, and inspired public art installations.

Beverly Hills

Well-kept public parks, off-the-charts dining, and exceptional shopping have travelers consistently returning to this enclave of Los Angeles, which has seen a huge uptick in restaurants and bars from name chefs and hospitality veterans opening this year, including Funke, Sur Le Vert, and Dante.

There’s hardly ever been a bad time to visit the desert cities, but this year countless new hotels and wellness offerings have made the region particularly appealing. Of particular interest is the opportunity to engage with and learn about the region’s Indigenous traditions at the Spa at Séc-he and the soon-to-open Agua Caliente Cultural Museum.

Redmond

The central Oregon city is the gateway to the high desert’s outdoor wonders, and boasts a vibrant downtown, brewery scene, and easy access to outdoor activities such as Smith Rock State Park. With an international airport, music festivals, and increasingly diverse dining scene, this city seamlessly blends small-town charm and urban sophistication.

These rich regions, beautiful counties, vibrant cities, and destinations offer activities, escapes, entertainment, and more for every kind of explorer and adventurer.

Santa Barbara

VISIT SANTA BARBARA

Two hours east of San Francisco, Sonora blends California Gold Rush history (the main street is a glimpse into the past with many of the original 19thcentury buildings lovingly preserved) with modern boutiques and dining, showcasing young entrepreneurs, the newly renovated Hotel Lumberjack, and the modern Armory bar and restaurant.

The quintessential old-school wine country town, complete with a historic town square, Michelin-recognized restaurants, chic boutique hotels, and food and wine and music festivals rounding out its appeal. Whether you’re staying in town or at one of the nearby luxury resorts, it’s a must-visit Sonoma spot.

Downtown Sonora

Oakland Anchorage

Victoria, B.C.

Downtown Sonora

Healdsburg

BEST DESTINATIONS

Willamette Valley

Located less than a two-hour drive from Portland, this hub for regenerative travel in the Pacific Northwest is one of the country’s premiere wine regions, but also has ample opportunities for hiking, biking, dining, and recreating along the mind-bogglingly beautiful Oregon coast.

Santa Fe County

The quintessential high-desert New Mexico destination manages to encompass a world-class opera, ski resorts and spas, art and culture, and nature and history. And it continues to evolve with immersive experiences like Meow Wolf and the new Sky Railway offering themed train rides.

Montana’s Yellowstone Country

There’s perhaps no region more emblematic of the West than Montana’s Yellowstone Country. And its majesty spans far beyond the national park, with nine blue-ribbon trout streams, rodeos, ski areas, and endless opportunities to recreate under the big sky.

San Francisco Peninsula

Just south of the city, the peninsula offers everything you need for an idyllic weekend getaway, with the striking coastal towns of Half Moon Bay and Pacifica, picturesque beaches, sustainable farms, and the legendary surf spot Mavericks.

The Santa Ynez Valley

The not-so-secret getaway for in-theknow Californians is home to dozens of incredible wineries, hotels for every budget and aesthetic (from mod motel to Danish modern to luxe resort), Michelin-approved restaurants, and six charming towns that epitomize Central Coast country chic charm.

San Francisco Peninsula

BEST NATURE EXPERIENCES

Bryce Canyon National Park

Marked by towering red rock formations, this International Dark Sky Park is one of Utah’s “Mighty Five” for good reason. With wide-open spaces in awe-inspiring vistas, it’s a transformative destination that belongs on every traveler’s bucket list.

Channel Islands National Park

The remote nature of this national park off the Central Coast of California—one of the least visited in the parks system—makes it all the more beautiful. Hike, camp, and kayak on Anacapa and Santa Cruz with Island Packers Cruises and see whales, dolphins, seals, and sea lions, all in their natural habitat.

The Portland Japanese Garden

Since 1963 this garden has attracted international visitors with its 12 tranquil acres of eight garden styles, a Japanese tea house, view of Mount Hood, year-round events, and its mission of peace and unity. One of the most impressive examples of the art of Japanese landscape design and culture.

Point Reyes National Seashore

This achingly beautiful stretch of California coastline provides a diverse habitat for everyone from backpackers to daytrippers to explore. The stunning estuaries, expansive grasslands, and grand beaches allow us to experience the state in its untrammeled timeless form.

Bryce Canyon NP

The Portland Japanese Garden

Channel Islands NP

DO DO

BEST SELF-CARE STAYS

Den Mother

This bohemian oasis tucked off of Abbot Kinney is so much more than a day spa. Though the space does have a cedar sauna, cold plunge, rainforest shower, and outdoor café, the practitioners are schooled in various modalities and healing , including Japanese acupuncture, Ayurvedic bodywork, functional medicine, and neuromuscular testing, offering a best-in-class wellness experience.

The Spa at Séc-he

Long before the area drew Hollywood celebs and in-the-know jetsetters, the Cahuilla Indians revered the hot, mineral-rich waters that spring up from a robust natural underground aquifer, and now the Spa at Séc-he brings the ancient healing waters of the Agua Caliente spring to the public in the most thoughtful way.

The Well at Chileno Bay Treatment highlights of this Los Cabos destination spa include rebozo stretching, celestial bathing, and customized cleanses to help bring travelers a rejuvenated sense of self in the heart of Cabo’s coveted coastline.

From self-care to tasting experiences to outdoor adventure, these activities will revive, restore, revitalize, and express a true sense of place.

The Spa at Séc-he

BEST

TASTING EXPERIENCES

Alma Rosa Winery

Founded in 2005 by California industry pioneer Richard Sanford, the first vintner to plant Pinot Noir in the region, Alma Rosa is now known not only for its stunning Santa Rita wines but for its unique programming. This year, the winery launched two new hiking tours and tasting experiences for visitors at its historic El Jabali estate, the first certified-organic vineyard in the country.

The Salon at Heitz Cellar

Located at the original St. Helena property that Joe and Alice Heitz purchased in 1961, the salon consists of a grand tasting room, a private tasting room, the Quartz Creek garden, a veranda, and a chef’s larder designed by renowned architect Peter Fleming.

McEvoy Ranch

To taste olive oil at this 550-acre, family-owned farm in Petaluma is to taste California food history. A pioneer in the olive oil industry, McEvoy invites visitors to experience the full range of awardwinning oils while gazing out at the rolling hills of Marin County. Guests can also tour the property, including orchards and the olive oil mill, and visit the shop for wine and pantry essentials.

Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey

Learn firsthand what makes a true Western whiskey at the first legal whiskey distillery in Colorado since Prohibition. With an impressive calendar of classes, guests can tour the distillery, taste flights of the brand’s single malts, and learn how to craft their own whiskey cocktails at the on-property bar.

Frank Family Vineyards

An old faithful in the Cabernet scene, the yellow Craftsman tasting room is one of Napa Valley’s most recognizable buildings. Adding to a storied reputation, this year they opened a new Howard Backen–designed space for tastings and food pairings, including a smallbites program by chef Christina Machamer.

Albuquerque’s Sawmill Market

Located in a former lumber warehouse in Albuquerque’s thriving Sawmill District, this is New Mexico’s first artisanal food hall and boasts over 25 merchants serving everything from tapas and tacos to smoothies and churros, making for a culinary experience that celebrates the diversity of New Mexican culture.

Albuquerque’s Sawmill Market

TOP: DOUGLAS MERRIAM; TUBAY YABUT

Central Oregon Astro Tourism

Amateur astronomers and everyday stargazers gather to marvel at central Oregon’s dark skies, where the remote high desert from Sunriver to Sisters, and from Prineville to Madras, makes for some of the most spectacular viewing in the Pacific Northwest.

The Alaska Railroad: 100 Plus Years of Exploring Alaska

For 100 years, this rail line has taken travelers on a journey under a clear glass dome to enjoy fullservice dining while making their way from Anchorage, Seward, and Fairbanks, ending the

BEST ADVENTURES AND EXPLORATIONS

journey at Denali National Park.

During the winter, the locomotive connects Anchorage, Talkeetna, and Fairbanks, known for incredible aurora borealis viewing.

Sea Cave Kayaking at Channel Islands National Park

The Channel Islands are one of the most remote and underexplored National Parks within the system, which is why it’s imperative to go with an expert guide. Explore the world-renowned sea caves and kelp forests at Scorpion Anchorage or kayak alongside the island’s unique flora, fauna, and geology, all while learning about its rich Native American history.

Outdoor Odyssey, San Juan Islands

These multi-day guided kayak camping tours give explorers an immersive experience in Washington’s Salish Sea. As you paddle from inlet to island learning about the marine life and ecology, stops make ample time for farm to campfire local food, wines, and craft beer, and, of course, great coffee.

Hike and Bike Hood River

Active travel is the essence of a visit to Hood River in the Columbia River Gorge, where the idyllic valley allows for a range of

activities from agritourism experiences (including wineries, cideries, craft breweries), e-bike tours, epic trail runs and hikes, and the unique opportunity to pedal a two-person railbike along old train tracks through the woods.

Heart of the Rogue Festival

This annual festival in downtown Medford, Oregon, is a vibrant multiday celebration of the surrounding Rogue Valley with local artists and artisans, musicians, small businesses, the regions esteemed wineries and breweries, and a Boston Marathon qualifiying run.

Central Oregon Astro Tourism

GRANT TANDY/VISIT CENTRAL OREGON

HOW TO GET THERE GET THERE

Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport

A proper welcome wagon to one of the country’s most majestic national parks, Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport is Montana’s busiest and best. Located in the heart of the beautiful Gallatin Valley, the airport provides nonstop flights to 22 cities in the United States with connections all over the world.

Alaskan Dream Cruises

Alaska’s only Indigenousowned, small-ship cruise line, Alaskan Dream Cruises offers an authentic view of Alaska’s Inside Passage. The fact that it’s owned by a family of Tlingit heritage means travelers get a unique connection to local communities while experiencing the beauty of the country’s most remote state.

SLO Safe Ride

Tasting wine in a sprawling setting like the beautiful Central Coast, with its winding roads and dozens of wineries spread out across the region, means one thing: You need a transportation plan. SLO Safe Ride provides transportation solutions for weddings, wine tours, luxury charters, and corporate events.

Off the Beaten Path

This bespoke high-end travel company creates trips that can connect travelers to global destinations with their expert guides and custom itineraries. For travelers in the West, their decadeslong track record and expertise in national park experiences sets them apart.

The best transportation and tours to help you travel the West in style.

Gallatin River

SLO Safe Ride

Alaskan Dream Cruises

Insider SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

Crafted by gallerists Lisa Casoni and Heather Stobo, Beato Chocolates reflects the playful spirit of Ojai and the maverick artist Beatrice

This month: Ojai, California

The insiders: Lisa Casoni and Heather Stobo, Beato Chocolates

Seasonal diversions and secret travel tips from local experts.

STAY

Ojai Valley Inn is “one of the last family owned luxury resorts in the country. From golf to an array of spa treatments, it is full of luxury amenities.” The Capri Hotel is part of the ultra-hip Shelter Social Club group and “has been restored to have a laidback vibe, pool, and is walking distance to town.” Also part of the group, The Ojai Rancho Inn “is an affordable option for those who like a more activated pool and common areas. It’s an easy walk

“Beato” Wood who moved there in the 1940s, helping establish the charming California town as a creative hub. The two creatives, who also own a home goods company, share their local tips for this famed bohemian enclave in Southern California.

into town. Grabbing some wine or beer at their poolside lounge, Chief’s Peak, is a must.”

EAT

Nocciola ’s outdoor dining is “a favorite of the locals. We like to cozy up to the small bar area. Kat, the bartender, makes great nonalcoholic and alcoholic drinks. The scallop appetizer and the pastas are always delicious.”

Rory’s Place “is a great new addition to Ojai’s dining scene. For a large group, the front window is perfect and good people-watching. Finally, a place with fresh oysters!”

At Ojai Rôtie “sit outside along the wall to get a great view of Chief’s Peak and the Topa Mountains. The restaurant is known for its rotisserie chicken and wonderful sides. We also highly recommend taking chef Claud Mann’s bread to go.”

harvest and distill a hydrosol, as well as discuss different ways of distilling and working with plants. The Ojai Turtle Conservancy founded by Eric Goode, the hotelier and creator of [Netflix docuseries] The Tiger King, offers “guided tours that are an amazing way to see some of the most beautiful and endangered turtles in the world.”

SHOP

Ojai Farmers’ Market is “the best place to find

DRINK

At “ The Dutchess, we love to sit at the front bar and people-watch from the window while enjoying well-crafted selection of drinks.” And at Tipple & Ramble, “the charming shaded patio is a great place to enjoy a late-afternoon glass of wine, cheese, charcuterie boards, and a Beato Chocolates bar. Plus, there’s a long table for playing games or for those cooler days and nights.”

DO

“ The Beatrice Wood Center for the Arts is a great place to take in the view and enjoy rotating art exhibits and pieces from the ‘Mama of Dada’s’ archives. GARA Skincare

Hydrosol Distillation Workshop is a fun monthly class in a beautiful outdoor space” that will take you through a

local produce, seasonal fruits, beautiful flowers, and local artists’ goods.”

FiG and Bungalow by FiG have “an eclectic combination of local, handmade, and Fair Trade goods from all over. We love the curation. Bart’s Books is the world’s largest outdoor bookstore, and it’s been open since 1964. They have a collection of over 130,000 used and new books, ranging from rare, out-of-print gems to loved paperbacks.“

Capri Hotel

CASONI AND STOBO: BEATO CHOCOLATES; CAPRI HOTEL: THOMAS J. STORY

Rory's Place

GARA Skincare Hydrosol Distillation Workshop Ojai Rôtie

Bart's Books

SOUTHWEST

Chef Tommy Lee is a born and raised Denver dweller and the chef-owner of Uncle and Hop Alley. The restaurant is located on a stretch of Larimer Street that has become a development hotspot as of late, with top-notch restaurants, breweries, and bars cropping up, making it a perfect walkable neighborhood for a self-guided food crawl. Here’s how to eat like a chef in the RiNo/Five Points area.

EAT

The chef-owners of Redeemer Pizza have finedining backgrounds, and “they bring those sensibilities to their pizza-focused restaurant and slice shop. Their dough is cold-fermented over a few days, making it complex and chewy. Their high-quality toppings are a great mix of traditional and creative combinations. The alleyentrance slice window is one of the best ’secrets’ in RiNo.” Curtis Park Deli is “one of the best sandwich shops in town. It’s not over-complicated. All the

This month: Five Points, Denver, Colorado

The insider: Tommy Lee, chef-owner of Hop Alley

proportions that make a sandwich great. My favorites are the French (Niman Ranch ham, brie, mixed greens, house-made mustard, house-made aioli) and the Fish (smoked rainbow trout, housemade aioli, blue cheese, capers, red onion, arugula, olive oil, lemon juice).”

Brasserie Brixton is a chic but approachable neighborhood-bistro-style spot. “The menu is modern French, with thoughtful global touches. The seasonal vegetable dishes are fun and delicious, but staples like steak-frites, mussels, and duck confit are always solid. They also have a progressive wine list featuring small producers.” Beckon is an “intimate chef’scounter, tasting-menu restaurant that has grown and sexy written all over it. The food is sophisticated and delicious,

hospitality is top-notch, and the space feels part of a different city.”

SHOP

Steadbrook is “one of the few menswear shops in town that features higherend streetwear. The owner, Zaki, is one of the nicest people you’ll meet and does a great job curating looks that are progressive but not too runway.”

DRINK

“I lived near RiNo when Crema was a 200-squarefoot box serving great coffee, and now it’s grown into the buzzing midmorning hub of Larimer Street.

The menu has expanded into solid breakfast and lunch; their quiche is great. The space has expanded and feels like a compound out of Williamsburg, Brooklyn, where you’ll find young hipsters, industry folks, and the real estate developers deciding the fate of RiNo all in one place. It’s truly one of the O.G. businesses that helped shape the neighborhood. Our Mutual Friend is one of the first local breweries in RiNo. They make amazing, balanced,

creative styles of all the ‘cool guy’ beers. And Yacht Club hasn’t won all these local and national awards for nothing. It is the perfect modern dive bar. The cocktails are excellent, the wines are carefully selected, the beer is cold, and the hot dogs are perfect. Along with all that, on Sundays there’s live music, where you’ll find up and coming musicians, D.J.’s, and even Grammy awardwinning trumpet players performing like it’s your backyard BBQ.”

Crema Coffe House Our Mutual Friend

Steadbrook

Redeemer Pizza

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

It’s hard to think of an Airbnb host with more clout and creativity than Kristie Mae Wolfe. Having built quirky, bucket-list worthy stays throughout the West—from off-grid hobbit holes to Hawaiian treehouses—she’s all about once-in-a-lifetime experiences with her spaces. Her upcoming project, MoonPass Lookouts, which opens in Wallace, Idaho, next spring, is five custom-built fire lookout towers with glass roofs that give 360-degree views of the property’s heavily forested acreage. Here, she shares her tips for making northern Idaho the ideal base camp to explore the beauty and wonder of the Silver Valley and surrounding Bitterroot Mountains.

EAT

"The highway runs right through the town of Wallace,” which is a historically protected and preserved mining town that lays claim to being the world’s largest mountain bike, ATV, and snowmobile trail system. “The town has unusually great food. The Black Board has a bookshop inside of it, milkshakes, and the best lasagne. I can’t believe it’s vegetarian! Eating there and watching the MoonPass Lookouts

snowflakes falling down outside the window solidified my buying property here.” The Cog is “right next to a bike shop, and has a really fun vibe, and their food is insanely good. Plus, they’re dogfriendly and serve free popcorn.”

DO

Just a couple miles from MoonPass Lookouts, you’ll find the Pulaski Tunnel Trail , “which is named after a firefighter who saved

his team from the historic Great Fire of 1910. Eventually, I’ll be creating a fire lookout museum on property that will be open to the public.” The Route of the Hiawatha Scenic Bike Trail “is a must-do, truly a bucket-list item when you’re in this area. Depending on how hard you go, you can even rent ebikes or be shuttled to the top and ride down a milelong tunnel where you can’t see light at the end.” For those who want to try their hand at fly fishing, you’re in luck. “Idaho has more miles of river than any other state. We have a creek and a pond on our property that are great for fishing.” A day trip to the Saint Joe River is worth the effort for anglers. “It’s really wide and not super deep, so you always see fly fishers out.“

DRINK

This month: Wallace, Idaho

The insider: Kristie Mae Wolfe

Start your day at 6th & Cedar Espresso Bar, a charming coffeeshop on the National Register of Historic Places. Then stop in for a tasting at Wallace Brewing , which pays homage to the town’s past with mining monikers such as 1910 Black Lager and Jackleg Stout. If wine is more your speed, The Fainting Goat is a great spot for wine tasting, brick-oven pretzels, and wood-fired pizzas like the Mountain Man, topped with bison, bacon, pepperoni, Italian sausage, olives, and a hot honey drizzle, sure to fill you up after a day of adventuring.

6th & Cedar Espresso Bar

Hiawatha Scenic Bike Trail

WOLFE: COURTESY OF KRISTIE MAE WOLFE; FROM TOP: MEGAN LEE ; KARL KEVIN LACORTE; VISIT IDAHO

West Essentials

{ OUR PICKS FOR WHAT’S ESSENTIAL IN THE WEST }

Experience Alaska, Visit Anchorage Alaska is known for glaciers, wildlife, and unforgettable open spaces. Experience it all with a visit to Anchorage. Urban and wild, it offers city comforts and endless natural Alaska allure. Plan a trip with your free Official Guide to Anchorage. VisitAnchorage.net

Transformative Travel with SCP Hotels

Experience travel with SCP Hotels, where wellness, social responsibility, and sustainability are at the core of every stay. Enjoy thoughtfully designed accommodations in California, Colorado, Oregon, Hawaii, and Costa Rica for an experience that benefits your soul, community, and planet. SCPHotels.com

Raise Your Glass

Wine is more than just a beverage; it's an experience best enjoyed together. Embrace the spirit of togetherness in Temecula Valley and join us in raising a glass to the good times that await in our inviting wine region. temeculawines.org

Meet Clover the Rainbow® Milk with a Splash of Flavor!

Made with no to low added sugar and organic, lactose free milk, enjoy the nutritional goodness of milk with just a splash of flavor. Available in three classically delicious flavors - Chocolate, Vanilla, and Strawberry. clovertherainbow.com

Visit Wyoming’s Emerald City

Blessed by Bighorn Mountain topography and evenly spaced between Yellowstone National Park and Mount Rushmore, Sheridan is where frontier history, outdoor recreation and Old West charm conspire to deliver the travel experience of a lifetime. sheridanwyoming.org

Unbox The West!

The Sunset Subscription Box brings the Best of the West straight to your door! Every three months, you’ll get a box full of home, design, food, and gardening products curated by Sunset editors. Choose the box that fits your style and price point, then get ready to be surprised and delighted by what you find inside! TheSunsetBox.com

To receive information on a state or category, go to the website below, or scan the QR Code below with your smartphone. Request

The nature of the west. FRONTIER History. COWBOY Heritage. Craft CULTURE. The Great Outdoors. 1.1

million acres of pristine wildland in the Bighorn National Forest, encompassing 1,200 miles of trails, 30 campgrounds, 10 picnic areas, 6 mountain lodges, legendary dude ranches, and hundreds of miles of waterways. The Bighorns offer limitless outdoor recreation opportunities.

restaurants, bars, food trucks, lounges, breweries, distilleries, tap rooms, saloons, and holes in the wall are spread across Sheridan County. That’s 101 different ways to apres adventure in the craft capital of Wyoming. We are also home to more than 40 hotels, motels, RV parks, and B&Bs.

seasons in which to get WYO’d. If you’re a skijoring savant, you’ll want to check out the Winter Rodeo in February 2022. July features the 92nd edition of the beloved WYO Rodeo. Spring and fall are the perfect time to chase cool mountain streams or epic backcountry lines.

Sheridan features a thriving, historic downtown district, with western allure, hospitality and good graces to spare; a vibrant arts scene; bombastic craft culture; a robust festival and events calendar; and living history from one corner of the county to the next.

sheridanwyoming.org

To receive free ad information, go to sunset.com/tell-me-more-travel23/

Picture Perfect

TikTok’s favorite portrait photographer, David Suh, shares his tips for refocusing your lens on your inner light to achieve the best travel shots.

Interview by KRISTA SIMMONS

David Suh is a portrait photographer, but the Los Angeles–based dynamo is so much more than that. Suh, who started his career as a dancer, is perhaps just as much of a life coach, helping his subjects hone their confidence in front of the camera—a gift that often extends well beyond his portrait sessions. Suh’s posing tips on how to move and position the body within the frame are approachable, comical, and go incredibly viral on social media. And we thought there would be no better person to ask about how to pose in order to take memorable, timeless travel photos on the road.

Taking photographs while traveling is a bit different than shooting in a studio. What are some of the scenarios that make travel portrait photography challenging?

Harsh midday lighting is probably the biggest challenge, since we like to be out and about during our travels. The best remedy for this would be to find shade, but there’s also different qualities of shades. I usually avoid trees as it creates patchy shadows because of the leaves. Places like tunnels and arches, however, create a very

constant shadow, along with the fact there’s directional light. Something you can try is being in shade, but having the light hit the back of you, creating this beautiful, ethereal light surrounding you. There are so many more ways to utilize this, so play around.

Selfies can be cringe, but when you’re traveling alone, you don’t have much of a choice. I don’t want to look like an Influencer in the wild. Are there any tools you’d recommend for folks to bring while traveling solo to get great

shots?

A better mindset. Obviously, be respectful of the space, people, and culture, but I love practicing taking up more space outside. If you’re in an open, public area, why not be dramatic and take stunning photos? Doing anything foreign in public is going to make you feel like you’re visually screaming to the entire world, but in reality, everyone is going about their day. Grab a phone tripod, start out mellow, try taking up more space if you’re up for it, and have fun!

Scale can also be tricky. How do you highlight something monumental, say the Grand Canyon or Half Dome, while also making sure you don’t look like an ant?

I would play around with getting the camera close to your subject, use the 0.5x lens option if you have one, and squat lower while tilting the phone higher to the subject. This should get them in the frame more without compromising the background.

When we think of crowded national parks and iconic byways like Highway 1, everyone’s competing for the same location. What are some tips for finding “the spot,” and then making yourself look great in said spot?

If it’s a popular spot and your intention is to get that iconic scene, you might be best off simply waiting in line like everybody else. However, if it’s a large area like a national park, there are hidden gems everywhere! Instead of looking for places, I would instead focus on finding beautiful spots of light. Good lighting will make a photo, but a good location won’t!

What are some of the most iconic locations here in the American West that you have on your bucket list for photography and why?

Even though I’ve shot here many times, I feel like there’s so much more to uncover in Malibu. Any sandy desert, like the dunes at San Luis Obispo, is a dream as well.

“THERE ARE HIDDEN GEMS EVERYWHERE! FOCUS

FALL / WINTER 2023 – ICELAND -5° CELSIUS