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EPIC SEASONAL CELEBRATIONS

WINTER IN THE

WEST The Coolest A-Frame Hotel Easy Holiday Desserts Mountain Getaways

THE NEW MODERN RANCH HOUSE STYLISH SAN FRANCISCO REMODEL PLANT DYE DIY

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2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County 97pts, Best of Class

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CONTENTS HOLIDAY 2023

A vintage Jeep Wagoneer gets decked out for the holidays at the A-Frame Club in Winter Park, Colorado.

2

Editor’s Letter On savoring the season.

Best of the West

5

Bathroom with a view, throwback holidays, gifts for gardeners.

Home & Garden

9

Square Deal A hyper-efficient modern mountain home in Colorado lets nature steal the show.

18 Checklist

What to do in your garden no matter where you are in the West. Plus, natural plant dye DIY.

22 A Light in the Attic

A radical renovation in San Francisco opens a 1907 house to the sun.

Hygge 34 Little on the Prairie Danish modern meets California dreaming at a ranch house in the Santa Ynez Valley.

44 Counter Intelligence

A couple updates their kitchen and great room with cool quartz countertops.

Food & Drink

47 Holidays on the Ranch

65 Going Back to Kona

Truly Southern 52 ACalifornia Feast

74 Checking Into Winter

Easy seasonal desserts from Elizabeth Poett’s new cookbook, The Ranch Table.

THOMAS J. STORY

Travel & Escapes

The South meets Southern California in this epic holiday spread from L.A. hotspot Queen St.

86 Insider Guides

What to do, eat, and see in San Diego, Casper, Wyoming, and Sun Valley, Idaho.

Luxury, sustainability, and nostalgia converge on the Kona coast of Hawaii.

Welcome to A-Frame Club, Colorado’s coziest, coolest hotel. Plus, Big Bear is back!

Voices of the West

96

Floral artist Amelia Posada on the art of seasonal foraging and wreath-making.

ON THE COVER

The A-Frame Club in Winter Park, Colorado.

Photograph by TH O MAS J. STO RY

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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EDITOR’S NOTE

CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER

Michael A. Reinstein

Snow Days

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Hugh Garvey DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Sarah Yang

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Wilson PHOTO EDITOR

Christine Bobbish STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Thomas J. Story

Travel editor Krista Simmons on location at A-Frame Club in Winter Park, Colorado.

Before I moved to Southern California, with its “72 and sunny” Januaries, every Illinois winter brought the promise of a snow day, that delightful disaster every schoolkid hopes will come whenever the forecast calls for heavy precipitation and temperatures drop below freezing. Regardless of its perils, a snow day meant a full-stop shutdown, an interruption of the daily routine, and a forced perspective shift from whatever you were doing to gazing out the window at a city blanketed white, roads unmarked by school buses, classrooms empty, snow angels and forts to be made. So, from Illinois to Iowa to New York, every winter in my heart I always hoped for one.

Now, having spent much of my adult life in L.A., I no longer hold out for such inclement interruptions, but I still yearn for the quiet and serenity of a city at snow-swaddled forced rest. While Coloradans and Tahoe denizens and vast swaths of other Westerners know that feeling well, the rest of us have to seek it out and schedule our immersion in the cold and powder, finding mountains and backcountry and hills to play in.

Here at Sunset we’re constantly on the lookout for hot (or cold!) spots, and travel editor Krista Simmons found a stylish new wonderland in Winter Park, Colorado: the A-Frame Club, a fresh take on the ski lodge with its collection of Scandi-chic A-frames tricked out with groovy mod Malm stoves, and a restaurant serving mountain-appropriate roasts and toddies in a super-hygge setting.

Check out her full report on page 74, along with her roundup on what’s new in Big Bear, SoCal’s nearby snowy escape. And even if you can’t get to the snow, this issue is packed with winter rituals: DIY plant-dye projects using last season’s harvest, homey baked goods to make for family and friends, garden gifts for the plant-obsessed in your life, and other ideas to help you rediscover the slower, more playful pace of a snow day, even when it’s 72 and sunny.

TRAVEL EDITOR

Krista Simmons

SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR

Kristin Guy

CONTRIBUTING HOME & DESIGN EDITOR

Christine Lennon

VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL INITIATIVES

Matt Gross

DIGITAL PRODUCER/NEWSLETTER EDITOR

Nicole Clausing

LIFESTYLE CONTRIBUTOR

Camille Styles

SENIOR DIRECTOR, PRODUCTION

Jamie Elliott

Sales & Marketing SVP, MEDIA SOLUTIONS

Mort Greenberg

VP, SALES AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Daniel McIntyre VP, PARTNERSHIPS

Kathleen Craven HEAD OF TRAVEL

Pamela Coffey HEAD OF OUTDOOR

Kristi Rummel

SVP, REVENUE OPERATIONS

Kelly Facer

DIRECTOR OF AD OPERATIONS

Mindy Morgan

HEAD OF CUSTOM EVENTS

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ACCOUNT MANAGER

—Hugh Garvey, E D ITO R-I N - CH I E F

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For assistance with your Sunset subscription, call 1-800-777-0117 or email support@sunset.com.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Tom Griffiths Graydon Sheinberg

THOMAS J. STORY

SunsetMagazine

Friend of the brand Ashlee Langholz puts our performance flannel to the test hiking at Ghost Ranch, Abiquiu, New Mexico.

FLANNEL FOR YOUR KIND OF FALL

W O M E N ’ S F L AT C R E E K F L A N N E L S H I R T

BREATHABILITY for comfort during more rigorous activity THERMOREGULATING for use in a wider range of temps STRETCH FABRIC for enhanced mobility

Or vis commits 5% of pre-tax profits to protecting nature orvis.com

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10/6/23 11:58 PM

MIX IT BREW IT BAKE IT GIFT IT IN F U S I N G F L AVO R .

IN F U S I N G H A PPI N E S S .® Our American Artisanal Simple Syrups, Extracts, and Bar Mixers are created by hand using only the highest quality authentic ingredients – perfect for the bartender, barista, baker, chef, and you. @sonomasyrupco | sonomasyrup.com INFUSED WITH REAL FRUIT, JUICE, PEELS , VANILLA BEANS , SPICES , AND BOTANICALS .

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BEST

OF T H E

WEST

Bathroom With a View

An off-the-grid cabin in Utah inspires with enviable vistas and a stunning statement tub.

Photograph by LI N DSAY SAL AZAR

Park City interior design firm Bond specializes in the kinds of spaces we dream of escaping to: luxurious mountain cabins, rambling desert retreats, well-appointed modern farmhouses. The grand bathroom they designed for this lodge in Kamas, Utah, might be the pinnacle of wintry bathing bliss, with its massive exposed timbers, epic views of the mountains, and an oversize copper tub that inspires thoughts of après-ski soaks over the holidays. The stunning hammered-copper tub is from Native Trails, a certified B corporation that specializes in metal pieces sustainably and ethically produced by artisans in central Mexico. “Copper adds instant warmth to a space,” says Native Trails founder and CEO Naomi Neilson. “Hammered copper adds texture against smooth, cool materials such as marble, which can be a great juxtaposition. It’s also a great transitional material and can flow easily between design styles.” For this bathtub and other copper pieces, go to nativetrailshome.com.

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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Gifts for Gardeners Tools, accessories, and gadgets for the botanically obsessed in your life.

Story by KRI STI N G UY

VANS SLIP-ON MULE For those of us who need a practical garden shoe for quick kitchen harvests, but want something a little cooler than the traditional waterproof clog. Grocery-andcoffee-run approved. $ 55 v a n s.c o m

GOODLAND EVERLASTING GARDEN HOSE

CAMINITO BLANKETS

Tired of wrangling hoses that kink? This food-safe, crackresistant beauty might just be the last one you ever buy.

Be prepared for impromptu garden hangs with these handwoven blankets made with yarn produced from recycled clothing remnants.

$19 5

$92

h e l l o g o o d l a n d.c o m

c a m i n i t o.c o

Offer your hardworking pollinators hydration with these porcelain cups coated with UV-reactive “Bee Vision” glazes that will attract and keep your visiting bees happy on hot days. $ 32 b e e - c u p s.c o m

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

HOSE: BRITNEY GILL PHOTOGRAPHY

BEE CUPS

Holiday Time Machine

The 1950s and ’60s were a very groovy period in Sunset history when it came to forward-thinking DIY decorating.

Here’s a look at our past coverage of seasonal projects.

BAREBONES HERB CUTTER-STRIPPER We love a multitasker, and this heavy-duty pocket tool snips and strips herbs faster than you can say “plot to plate.”

1952

We publish a step-by-step

guide to building an elabo-

$30

rate gingerbread house and

b a r e b o n e s l i v i n g.c o m

explore its Scandinavian immigrant roots in the West.

1951

1953

We begin a decades-long

In keeping with this maximal-

iature potted living trees all

ing not one but two trees, we

fascination with putting min-

ist mid-century cover featur-

through the house.

suggest some very Mad Men decanters as the ultimate hostess gift.

1966

1955

For the first and only time in our 125-year history we

advocate for a tree entirely made of yarn.

We embrace the piñata as a

1963

Three words:

Western holiday tradition

and return to it repeatedly in the coming years.

Bonsai. Christmas. Tree.

WOMANSWORK GAUNTLET GLOVES Full-length protection from rosebushes and hiding spiders alike, these elbow-high gloves make clearing and pruning a less irritating task for your skin. $ 56 w o m a n s w o r k.c o m

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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HOME & GARDEN

Square Deal

On a narrow lot high in the mountains of Golden, Colorado, an architect designed her own hyperefficient dream house: a glass, steel, and concrete modern box that lets nature steal the show.

Story by CH RI STI N E LE N N O N Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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Floor-to-ceiling windows make the narrow, 15-foot-wide living room feel suspended in nature.

Custom cabinets and a small island streamline the small kitchen. Goff installed a window instead of a backsplash for a more open feeling and natural light.

rchitect Cherie Goff, a nature-loving native Coloradan, knew she’d made the right decision to move up into the mountains when one of her more elusive new neighbors paid a visit. ¶ “We get foxes and wild turkeys coming through here all the time,” says Goff. Then one day when she and her husband, an astrophysicist, were working in their shared downstairs office, they spotted a bobcat outside their window. “It was just sitting there, sort of looking around. We couldn’t believe it.”

Nature is impossible to ignore at Goff’s house, where a wall of glass windows reveals an expansive view of the landscape and the lights of Denver in the distance. She watches the changing seasons transform the landscape, turning dynamic native grasses from green to gold to auburn before snow blankets their surroundings in white.

“Just last night, we were sitting in the living room enjoying an incredible lightning storm,” she says. “Storms are so much fun now. One of our biggest surprises is just how cool it is in the winter. It can be a dark, somber time, but up here

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A spiral staircase connects the main living area to the work space and guestroom below.

The minimal primary bedroom is all about the view.

The “flower grenade” neon art is a custom design.

The cantilevered living room creates an overhang for a snug four-season patio. The Nelson spindle clock is from DWR. The concrete floor, which is warmed by the sun in winter and stays cool in summer, extends into the shower.

you get to experience it like I never have before.”

For years, the couple had lived happily in a condominium down the hill in Boulder. It was filled with art and textiles and all the trappings of typical town life.

When they decided that they wanted to feel a deeper connection to nature and build a house outside of town, however, Goff made the decision to pare down her aesthetic and take a simpler, more minimal approach.

“There’s such a driving force in our society and in real estate where we evaluate things in terms of square footage. The perceived value is linked to size,” she says. “But making things bigger doesn’t mean you’re making them better.”

They found a narrow lot just outside the Golden town line and Goff spent the next 15 months designing and building her dream house in her free time. The 1,800-square-foot house that resulted includes a lower-level garage, a mid-level with an office, a lounge with a pull-out bed for guests and a bathroom. The large, cubelike volViews of the ume at the top level is the main living Hogback Ridge area, with an open-concept kitchen, and Denver living, and dining room and an adjaskyline change with the seacent primary bedroom and bath. The sons. The home house uses resources lightly. Its conis furnished crete base is insulated by the earth simply with on its interior side. With exterior inmodernist staples like Eames sulation and triple pane windows, plywood chairs. the house is designed for passive solar heating. The southern-facing floor-to-ceiling windows warm up the concrete floors in the winter, while overhangs and motorized shades keep the house cool in the summer without air-conditioning. The house is 100 percent electric, with hot-water radiant floor heating fed by an efficient heat pump and solar panels. The corrugated steel siding is both fire-resistant and wallet-friendly.

“For budget reasons, and just to practice what I preach about sustainability, it was the right choice for us to build a smaller home,” she says, noting that they have everything they need to feel comfortable, and not much more. The couple is very deliberate about resisting clutter and has been adding to their art collection slowly since they moved in in early 2021.

When guests make the drive up to see them, they like to spend time on the small entry-level patio, known as the party porch, which has built-in speakers and a portable firepit. In the warmer months, they’ll have friends over for barbecues on the deck off of the living area, where the view is always the guest of honor.

“I’m a modernist, and that philosophy is about connecting to people and the outside instead of to things,” she says. “Living in a simple house like this keeps me grounded and clears my mind.”

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H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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I’m a modernist, and that philosophy is about connecting to people and the outside instead of things. It keeps me grounded and clears my mind.

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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YOUR

W IN T E R GARDEN CHECKLIST

Cool weather doesn’t mean it’s time for Western gardeners to chill out. Here are projects, tasks, and tricks to make the most of the season.

Story by KRI STI N G UY

PLANT Preorder bare root trees and

M A I N TA I N Trim berry bushes to make way

berry bushes now for the best se-

for new growth. Give fruit trees

option, costing 30%–50% less than

fruit a pruning once dormant to

lection. Not only a budget-friendly potted nursery varieties, they also

have a more successful transplant rate—and grow faster.

such as apples, pears, and stone remove interior bulk and control height.

Monitor your compost pile, and

Start cool-season herbs like ci-

move its location or cover if the

and borage. Try succession sow-

tency should be moist but not

lantro, parsley, chervil, chives, dill, ing every 2–3 weeks for a continuous harvest into spring.

Get chilled tulip bulbs into the

mixture becomes too wet. Consissoggy for optimal microbial activity.

Keep holiday greens well wa-

ground or patio pots before mid-

tered or misted daily. Poinsettias

refrigerator before planting, be

plants do best indoors and when

January. If you need to store in the careful not to place near ripening fruit, whose ethylene gas can damage the bulbs.

PLAN

dislike a draft, these decorative

you let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings.

PROTECT Add compost and mulch around

It’s seed-catalog season! Take

your perennial veggies (think as-

packets before making new or-

as well as berry bushes and citrus

inventory and organize leftover

ders, as seeds can last up to two

years if stored properly in dry, airtight containers.

Take advantage of seasonal

downtime and treat yourself to a

paragus, artichokes, and rhubarb) trees. Added insulation will protect roots from dipping temperatures

while retaining moisture and helping control erosion.

Consider digging swales on hill-

new gardening book. Now is a

sides and slopes or near newer

landscaping projects, turning your

dentations can be filled with rock

great time for researching spring

backyard into a wildlife habitat, or implementing new water-saving systems into your garden.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

native plantings. These shallow inor mulch and help slow rain runoff, while providing deeper waterings and preventing erosion.

In the enchanting new release Moon Garden, Jarema Osofsky offers soothing rituals for reflection and relaxation to help you practice mindfulness after dark.

Moon Garden Winter’s quiet dormancy is the perfect time for reflection while seeking inspiration for the growing months ahead. Landscape and interior

plant designer Jarema Osofsky’s latest book, Moon Garden: A Guide to Creating an Evening Oasis, encourages us to create green spaces

that are beautiful by day but come alive at night by attracting nocturnal creatures and releasing scents after sundown. Here she shares

seasonal tips and design how-tos for creating a rejuvenating space,

as well as soothing rituals and calming meditations to practice as we head into the new year.

The Anatomy of a Moon Garden

fragrance, rosy buds, and cas-

immersive, sensorial experience.

interior.

Being in the garden at night is an As daylight fades, Jarema en-

When it comes to building

courages you to focus on your

moon-garden texture indoors,

deeply to your surroundings

plant arrangements, building a

sense of smell and listen more while paying attention to the

subtle gradations of color. The

moon-garden palette is made

up of whites, silvers, greens, yel-

lows, and purples. For winter ap-

plication, Osofsky suggests homing in on white flowers like

hellebores or mock orange,

paired with the silver foliage of

Osofsky advises creating pottedbackground layer of dark green

foliage. Plants such as lady palm (Rhapis palm), umbrella plant

(Schefflera amate), and fiddleleaf fig (Ficus lyrata) can offer

some dramatic contrast, allowing smaller plants with lighter colors to pop in front.

artemisia and lavender. Whether

Mindfulness for the New Year

tered patio pot, or in a small win-

into thinking deeper about per-

you plant yours indoors, in a sheldow box, these white pops glow

after dusk while silver shimmers under the full moon. Try mixing

fine-textured leaves like grasses FROM MOON MOON GARDEN: A GUIDE TO CREATING AN EVENING OASIS BY JAREMA OSOFSKY, © 2023.

PHOTOGRAPHS © KATE S. JORDAN. ILLUSTRATIONS © JILL DEHAAN. PUBLISHED BY CHRONICLE BOOKS, LLC

cading foliage to liven up your

with larger, bold-leafed shrubs to create movement and visual interest.

With daylight hours shortened,

Osofsky finds it especially important to maintain a connection

with nature. She fills her apartment with tropical and arid

plants, integrating blooming

plants for their pops of color and scent. Try potted pink jasmine

(Jasminum polyanthum) as an which offers a heavenly

sonal relationships with your garden as we enter into the new

year. Starting a growing journal

to record planting schedules and track progress is an easy way to

pay closer attention to the small

living details around you. Perhaps this is the season to learn which

Invite Nature Indoors

unexpected indoor addition,

Jarema wants to motivate you

plants are indigenous to your

bioregion and create a moon

garden that is part of a larger

ecosystem, one that can be a

source of sustenance for local

birds, insects, and other wildlife.

By creating a natural space in-

tended for nurturing, your garden can be not only a source of heal-

ing and a site of spiritual practice for yourself but a resource-rich habitat for local species, too.

For more tips on designing a nighttime garden sanctuary, pick up a copy of Moon Garden: A Guide to Creating an Evening Oasis. $19.95, CHRONICLEBOOKS.COM

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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PICK A PLANT, PICK A PAINT Depending on your bioregion, you can discover a wide variety of local plants with dye potential to harvest. You can also look to your own garden or the local farmers’ market for materials to get you started. Here we explore a few winter offerings and their color profiles.

WILD-GROWING PLANT DYES Pine, alder, or redwood cones: Pinkish tan to warm brown

Garden Project/Expert Tips

onto fabric to create a pattern of neg-

ative space. Try accordion folding your

Oak galls: Cool grays and blues

How to create colorful crafts with plant-based dyes.

pins along the folds for a geometric

Black walnut hulls: Tan to chocolate brown

known for her dye hikes in Southern California. A master at botanical dyes, she

hosts workshops in which she shares the plants and techniques to produce seasonally inspired color crafts from the natural world around us. For a calender of events and to sign up for her newsletter, go to berbostudio.com.

Harvesting How-Tos

implement patterns into your dying

Berkowitz suggests looking for trees or

using a simple “scrunch” technique,

When collecting dyeing materials,

plants with deeply colored bark, cones, or stems with strong “medicinal”

process. To create a marbled pattern gather edges of fabric into random

pleats, folds, and scrunches. Use rub-

grid pattern.

Project Inspiration for the Holidays When it comes to winter projects,

Berkowitz likes to create a color-coordinated wintry tablescape by mixing

earthy plant colors. She also suggests turning fabric scraps into creative, reusable gift wrapping using simple Japanese techniques: Wrap small

boxes, books, and even wine bottles

with your dyed creations, adding dyed

Toyon leaves and branches: Tan to yellow-orange Sagebrush: Golden yellow to olive green

GARDEN PLANT DYES

silk ribbons to coordinate, creating

Fennel: Golden yellow

tiful not to reuse.

low the forager’s rule of thumb: Never

Rosemary: Mustard yellow to olive green

available plant material in the imme-

Carrot greens: Sunny yellow

smells. These characteristics can all be signs of latent natural color. If

you’re dyeing with native plants gathered from the wild, it’s essential to foltake more than 10 percent of any

diate area, leaving the bulk for the

wildlife that needs it most. Berkowitz seeks out areas with dozens of the

same plant, gathering material from the ground first, noting that some of the best finds are wind-fallen, like

pinecones, oak galls, chipped bark, and downed branches.

Pattern Play

While the natural dye process can create gorgeous texture and color shifts without any additional technique,

Berkowitz shares two easy ways to

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

ber bands or twine to hold the bun-

dled fabric in place. For checker-like squares, pinch wooden clothespins

custom gift wrapping that is too beau-

WINTER PRODUCE DYES Pomegranate skins: Yellow to green-gray Avocado pits and skins: Peach-pink Onion skins: Yellow-orange to brown

FROM TOP: HANNAH RAY TAYLOR; SADIE SPEZZANO

Erin Berkowitz is a Los Angeles–based artist and certified California Naturalist

fabric, placing evenly spaced clothes-

Natives Now! Winter is go time for gardeners devoted to native plants.

Here’s how to take full advantage of the season to reap the benefits in spring.

Move over, holiday-spiced beverages! For us, winter is still

peak planting time—where planning is finally put into action

and the conditions for our local plant species are at a prime.

Looking to have a healthy, well-established habitat by

spring? The key to success is getting them into the ground

right—here are our key steps for transplanting triumphantly.

Know Your Plant Community

Master Dye Recipe NEW TO THE WORLD OF BOTANICAL DYES? BERKOWITZ SHARES HER “MASTER DYE RECIPE” TO GET YOU PRODUCING NATURAL COLORS WITH EASE. Tools: Cookware and utensils reserved only for dyeing (stainless steel or enamel are good choices), stirring spoons, strainer, kitchen thermometer, food-grade bucket, and cheesecloth or mesh drawstring bags.

Fabrics: Natural fibers like cotton, linen, hemp, silk, or wool respond best to natural dyeing. Silk and wool have a special affinity for natural dyes, and results will often be more vibrant or vivid on animal fibers.

Safety Tips: Wear gloves (especially when mordanting) and work outside or in a well-ventilated space for any dyeing project. Make sure all pots, utensils, and other supplies are reserved for dyeing only and never used for cooking or serving food.

Ongoing care: Wash dyed fabrics separately or with like colors using a gentle, pH-neutral detergent. Less sun exposure means less color fading. Natural dye colors can last for years with proper care.

By selecting the appropriate plants for your specific location, you are not only restoring localized plant diversity but setting yourself up for growing success. Shrubs of the chaparral have vastly different needs from those located in a central oak woodland or northern coastal scrub, so look up your personalized plant community online by Zip Code to identify the key plants that will take to your area with ease.

Size Matters

Start with plants that are 1 gallon or smaller. Not only will you be able to fill in a larger area on a budget, but smaller plants have less transplant shock and lower water use. Larger plants are often rootbound and grow at a slower rate when transplanted; you’ll be surprised by how quickly your smaller starts will take off.

Soak Session

The most important part of native plant health and longevity is getting them into saturated soil. First, dig a hole twice as wide as your nursery container, then fill the hole completely with water and allow it to drain. Continue to fill and drain the hole 3–4 times to adequately soak the surrounding soil and in turn promote deep root growth.

Stay Grounded

ERIN BERKOWITZ

1 / Preparing Fabric: Mordanting Absolutely essential to the natural dye process is a simple step called mordanting, a process that allows dye to permanently attach to fiber.

• Measure alum powder at approximately 10 percent of the weight of your fabric to be dyed; dissolve in very hot tap water in a bucket or non-reactive pot.

• Soak your fabric in the alum solution for 1 hour, stirring often to ensure even uptake of the mordant.

• Rinse and proceed to the dye process.

2 / The Dyeing Process To “brew” your dye materials, chop or crush your dyestuff into small pieces and tie in a cheesecloth bundle. Submerge in hot water and heat

at an active simmer for at least 1 hour to extract the dye.

As for how much water to use, Berkowitz’s general rule of thumb is to use just enough water to cover the plant material for the most vibrant results.

• Submerge your mordanted fabric in hot (180ºF) dye, stirring often for even color.

There is no rule for how long to leave it in the dye pot: 5 minutes, overnight, or anywhere in between. Fabric will dry a shade or two lighter than when wet, so remove your dyed goods accordingly.

• Once out of the dye pot, let your fabric cool to room temperature, rinse in tap water and wash in cold water with gentle liquid laundry detergent. Allow dyed fabric to air dry in the shade.

When it comes to placing the plant into soil, thou shalt not amend! Refill planting holes with original soil only. If fertilizer or rich garden soil are added, the roots will be less likely to grow outside of the planting area, which can cause them to tangle and suffocate the plant. Finally, scoop soil away from the leader trunk to avoid rot. Encourage ecology by placing a “nurse rock” to the south side of the plant which will aid in establishing roots and retaining soil moisture.

Weed, Water and Wait

While ongoing care is going to be more minimal than non-native landscaping choices, you’ll still need to remove weeds and do some initial watering so plants can establish quickly. Supplement water during fall and winter if rains are light; refrain from watering more than once a month during summer.

Get to know your selections as some require no water at all during their dormancy periods.

Native habitats take a little patience, but they are worth it. Know going into the process that plantings won’t show incredible signs of growth until the second year. Now stand back, relax, and get ready to be rewarded in the seasons ahead!

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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A lofty office painted Benjamin Moore Simply White invites light into the traditional three-story house.

A

Sunset Page

Light IN THE Attic

23

SUN FILTERS THROUGH THIS HANDSOME, SHINGLED, 1907 SAN FRANCISCO HOUSE AFTER A REMODEL ADDED INGENIOUS SKYLIGHTS AND A WALL OF GLASS THAT OPENS TO AN INVITING GARDEN. Story by CH RI STI N E LE N N O N Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

A

rchitect Malcolm Davis loves exposing the bones of an old house to reveal its hidden character, and slicing sections out of walls and rooftops to let light trickle in.

“To be honest, I’m a little claustrophobic and I guess you can tell when you see my work,” he says. “I need to be able to see outside, to see natural light, and get this invitation to go outside and use the garden.”

This handsome, shingled house in the Richmond, bordering the Presidio, is a prime example of how he makes this philosophy work, even in the notoriously gloomy climate in the northwestern quadrant of San Francisco.

“Because you have that big, open living space with all of that glass, even on a gray day it feels really inviting,” he says.

The homeowners, Jen and Adrian, knew they wanted to work with Davis’s team at Malcolm Davis Architecture

A steel support beam was installed on the first floor, creating an open corner between the dining room and kitchen and an unobstructed view to the back garden.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

because of their deftness with incorporating modern ideas into older, richly detailed homes. Jen has a master’s degree in architecture, and wanted to work with Davis because she trusted the way he handled historic houses. The exterior of their 1907 home was protected by preservation codes, and there were many elements of the interior that were worth saving. But a few additions that had been cobbled onto the rear of the house over the years made the layout feel disjointed, and failed to take advantage of the impressive amount of interior and exterior space.

“I find homes that are very modern to be too cold,” she says. “So we blended the modern with the traditional. I am afraid I drove Malcolm nuts with the conversations about trim. We wanted to maintain traditional details, and carry the trim through to some of the rooms, but not use it where it didn’t make sense.”

By knocking down some interior walls and installing a massive support beam that spanned the first floor, they were able to create an expansive living, kitchen, and dining area. By lowering the floor of a conversation area adjacent to the kitchen, they opened up the house to a functional,

The garden is divided into outdoor rooms that mirror the interior layout with separate dining, cooking, and lounge areas.

Unlacquered brass accents in the kitchen will patina with time.

The combination of Marine Black soapstone and Pure White Caesarstone countertops create a dramatic contrast.

Pendant lights by Allied Maker.

26

multilevel rear garden that was easily accessible through wide glass doors.

The front entry, sitting room, and staircase were left largely untouched, but they’re now connected to an airier, family-friendly living space.

“I love looking at how people in Europe work with beautiful old buildings, how they’ll respect the existing details and then work new things in,” says Davis. “It’s not like you have to have crown molding on the dishwasher, but you also don’t need to erase every trace of what came before.”

While the garden is the obvious scene-stealer, it was the MDA team’s

S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

work on the attic that truly transformed the house. Daylight travels from the third floor all the way down to the front door, thanks to some ingenious skylights that let the sun’s rays bounce and reflect through the center of the structure.

“There was a tandem thing that happened when we added another staircase to get to the top floor office,” says Davis. “The new stairs mirrored the existing stairs. The office up at the top has a low glass wall, and then there are skylights behind it. So the light shines through the office, through the glass wall and then into

the main stairwell. Then we opened up the ceiling there and exposed the framing. So it makes this wonderful quality of light that comes all the way down to the entry. It’s kind of a subtle thing, but when you walk into the house there’s a lot of daylight there. It creates this wonderful drama and light play.”

An interesting contrast between light and dark, rich stained floors and Simply White walls, waxed soapstone and white granite, is evident all over the home. In the primary bathroom, where the addition of two more skylights lets light in from opposite

exposures, north and south, the Heron Blue variegated Heath tile on the walls appears to shift and change throughout the day. Unlacquered brass fixtures add a hint of subtle, metallic glow throughout. And while the common spaces are bright and welcoming, the bedrooms are quiet, cocoonlike spaces, enveloped in thick curtains and dark, moody walls.

“I love playing off of contrasts,” says Jen. “The house feels very contemporary, but it’s also filled with so many things I inherited from my grandmother, who was an artist. We use her dining table surrounded by

very modern chairs. There’s a lot of great interior light, but there are dark, quiet places to rest. There are places where we wanted to invite the light in, and others where we knew we wanted to block it out. And it was so great to work with people who really understood that relationship.”

The MDA team added a stairwell with a sinuous banister to access the third floor.

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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Light bounces off the Heron Blue Heath tile in the primary bathroom, which has a space-saving wet area behind glass doors.

A child’s bedroom is painted in Farrow & Ball Bancha.

An air-plant installation in the dining room is a low-cost, high-impact way to fill a blank wall.

The formal living room with its original bay window went mostly untouched. Their dog, Hazel, lounges in the sun.

The art over the mantel and the coffee table were inherited from Jen’s grandmother, and contribute to the unique mix of classic and modern furnishings.

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A floaty, paper holiday garland has established year-round residence in the foyer.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

The raw-wood kitchen shelf bisects the windows in an interesting way.

Brass faucet by Rohl.

Hazel the dog perched in the bay window.

Like many older San Francisco homes, the backyard was unusable before the renovation. Concrete seating and hardy plants make it a low-maintenance outdoor room now.

The house has unfinished brass fixtures throughout, some original and others new, like this Watermark faucet with exposed angle stops.

A matte black Lacanche range with brass trim was a worthy kitchen splurge.

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A paper garland hangs in the front entry, where light pours in from the higher floors. Felt rug by Peace Industry.

“It creates THIS wonderful drama AND light play.”

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

Thick curtains match the Farrow & Ball Railings paint in the primary bedroom, creating a dark, quiet, cocoonlike space for sleeping.

A long, green velvet builtin anchors the sunken seating area, which opens up to the garden level.

Lina swivel chairs from DWR can turn to face the outdoors or the kitchen.

Little HYG GE on the

Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

Story by KRI STI N G UY

HOW A COUPLE REDEFINED THEIR LIVES’ PURPOSE WHILE CREATING A SANTA YNEZ VALLEY HOMESTEAD ROOTED IN SUSTAINABILITY.

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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Ranchy McRanch is not your typical hobby homestead. Sure, there are droves of adorable animals coupled with the rolling, gold-kissed hills that only California’s Santa Ynez Valley can offer, but this is more than the “needed a change of scene and leaves the city for the country” kind of story we’ve heard many times before. What started as a relocation reboot for empty nesters Melissa and Paul Kanarek turned into a passion project filled with 25 animals and a whole lot of self-discovery.

When you step onto the property, a darkly stained wood cladded home seems to melt into a soft surround of native vegetation. Melissa stands at the gate greeting you with a warm smile, accompanied by a pup posse and possibly their two Kunekune pigs, Uma and Concrete, who are out of the pen on their daily rounds. In the distance you’ll see their three rescue horses, a trio of Highland cows, a gaggle of goats, and Bart, the guard llama, grazing happily while enjoying the coastal breeze. Two adopted geese and a duck named Pinto, who thinks she’s also a goose, take a dip in a wildlife pond, which is also frequented by migrating birds and the occasional blue heron. Paul is somewhere hiding, but will eventually make an entrance with his charming British accent and a quick-witted joke or three. Everything feels welcoming and effortless, like they’ve all been here forever, and yet it’s only been a few years.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

When the couple first purchased the five-acre parcel in the quiet town of Ballard, California, Paul admittedly could not see the vision buzzing inside Melissa’s creative mind. Soon after they closed escrow, she assembled a dream team to revitalize the barren landscape into a sustainably minded oasis. Since the couple was starting from the ground up, Melissa and Paul were able to curate each addition to the landscape with care, recruiting the most eco-minded designers possible.

Going the sustainable route doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice on style, so when it came to building their home, Melissa jumped at the chance to work with Sean Karcher, owner of Michigan-based Hygge Supply, to build a customized kit home that would seamlessly become one with the natural Clockwise from top surroundings. If you aren’t familleft: A custom neon iar with Hygge Supply, that’s besign greets you upon cause this is its first West Coast entry; Kunekune pigs were a recent construction, but it’s well-known addition to the for its intentional style created homestead; owners through mindful simplicity and Paul and Melissa the incorporation of environmentake a pause on the back of their 1961 tally viable methods and materiFord F-100; the naals. These minimalist homes evoke tive plant palette a casual elegance with an intenwas inspired by tion to showcase the things near drives through the Santa Ynez Valley. and dear to us—be it bright streamlined interiors to display coveted collectables or oversized framing of floor-to-ceiling windows to capture serene views. These modern modulars might be Midwest-born, but they were made for the year-round indoor-outdoor living that comes with California’s temperate weather and scenic terrain. “Sean is an artist, and I connected with him because we both believe that the details are everything,” says Melissa. “It is a sustainable build, but it does not lack in style or sex appeal— I didn’t think a ‘kit home’ could feel this luxe.”

Inside, Melissa has tackled the interior design all on her own, assembling an impressive art collection from their travels paired with a combination of modern and vintage furnishings. There is a story behind everything; each piece is intentional and filled with meaning—from the Gam Klutier painting they acquired from a chance studio visit in Lima, Peru, to the vintage furniture sourced by Eneby Home during a U-Haul road trip to Texas’s famed Round Top Antiques Fair. The space is eclectic and yet extremely liveable—Melissa has created her own style, fine-tuned and perfected over time, which works in tandem with the Hygge infrastructure.

When it comes to the surrounding landscape, Kara Holekamp, of design firm Terremoto, recalls driving through the valley for the first planning meeting and unconsciously cataloging a plant palette that would ultimately become the anchor for the project. The hills of the Santa Ynez Valley are abundant with painterly swaths of sagecolored shrub vegetation, ceanothus drooping heavily with purple and white puff-shaped clusters, and tufts of yellow

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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“A meadow planted solely by a seed mixture of native grasses and chaparral shrubs covers a large span of land on a budget while creating biodiversity.”

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

A vintage bread table and artwork from a sourcing trip to Tunisia add warmth and texture to the powder-coated Hygge Supply cabinetry, which emits zero VOCs. Even the countertops are sustainable, containing recycled pre-consumer plastics, and are 100 percent recyclable.

and brown grasses highlighting the chaparral’s rocky slopes. Based on the the ideology of planting purposefully and leaning heavily on local vegetation, the design was effortlessly implemented at the ranch. “This project’s thesis was to blend the native ecology and chaparral woodland with something more tended to and cultivated,” explains Holekamp, who designed seas of ceanothus melting into lavender and staccato moments of prickly-pear cactus poking through feathery grasses.

In the open space between the living areas and animal pastures, there is a meadow planted solely by a seed mixture of native grasses and chaparral shrubs. Lushly fueled by the previous winter’s rains, it is now a graceful transition and inspiration on how to successfully cover a large span of land on a budget while supporting incredible biodiversity. What was initially lifeless and compacted from construction traffic and decades of livestock grazing is now a thriving habitat rejuvenated and filled with life. As the vision continues to evolve, there is now a newly planted fruit orchard and garden boxes to harvest carrots and other veg for the growing Kanarek menagerie. The result is a cohesive balance of all things familiar while not being overly precious.

Where the talent wrangled together to bring this ranch vision to life was key, what makes this particular project such a standout is the level of enthusiasm the design teams reflected back onto the homeowners. Every person involved has exclaimed what an enjoyable and collaborative experience it was to create this homestead heaven. Mindfulness

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

and intention are a theme that run deep since breaking ground on the project, and one can’t help but notice that the same purpose has now bled into the rest of Melissa and Paul’s life.

Melissa recently repositioned her local boutique, Brass Tack, to primarily offer vintage and used designer items while launching a line of clothing created from deadstock fabric, sourced and sewn in Los Angeles. When asked about lessons learned during the entire home process, she quips, “It’s best to have no idea what you’re doing. If we were experienced and had any clue about the level of work involved in two clueless people caring for 25 animals, we never would’ve done it. As a duo, we are much more capable than I had previously known, and I admire Paul for rolling up his sleeves and saying I’m going to try something so completely out of my lane and area of expertise. This project and this land is a bit of a fairy tale and has made me fall even more in love with him for saying yes to the adventure.”

Meanwhile Paul, in his “retirement,” is teaching economics at a local high Clockwise from top left: A Venetian mirror from Nice and Eneby Home globe lights soften the modern space.

Floor-to-ceiling windows allow the exterior landscape to become the focal point in the bedroom and bath. Shipping container swimming pool by MODPOOLS.

school, encouraging teens to broaden their collegiate and scholarship opportunities. Ranch life has delivered both humble moments and peace for him, as he truly enjoys taking care of the animals. “It is hard to be impressed with oneself when cleaning up after 5,000 pounds of hungry herbivores, yet caring for them is a beautiful constant in my day,” he admits. “I find that I am kinder, both to others and myself, less interested in the pursuit of material stuff and more invested in the things that matter—deeper and more meaningful relationships with my children, my family, my closest friends, and, most importantly, Melissa.”

Where the ranch life is a daydream for many, this homestead is a sprawling case study of sustainable design for apartment dwellers and small city bungalows alike. It exemplifies the importance of eco-mindfulness when making choices inside and outside of our own dwellings and how tending to something while tending to ourselves can collectively cast a positive ripple of change into the world around us. Here’s to all of us embracing that Ranchy McRanch state of mind.

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The incorporation of Hygee Supply’s iconic breezeway was an absolute necessity to maximize the home’s indoor-outdoor living space while delivering 270-degree views. Bottom: Artwork by Peruvian artist Gam Klutier and a set of blue Jordy chairs by France & Son playfully pop extra personality into the living room.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

THE RAISED BED GLOW-UP IT’S TIME TO THINK OUTSIDE OF THE GARDEN BOX! WE’VE ROUNDED UP FIVE WAYS TO CUSTOMIZE YOUR PLANTERS THAT NOT ONLY MAKE THINGS PRETTIER BUT ALSO PERFORM BETTER.

1

2

3

5

STYLING WITH STAIN

Intruders are inevitable,

Add a little glam to your

Ditch the dumpy store-

Companion planting is

Move over traditional drip,

other curious creatures.

beds to match your home

and make your own with a

ting out your plant selec-

pack that will water plants

whether your own pets or Keep precious plantings safe from digging by

adding customizable toppers to raised beds. Depending on your space,

styles can vary from lids

that lift using door hinges or even sliding screen

doors for gardens with less girth. Use ½-inch,

19-gauge wire screens to

allow precious pollinators entrance, while keeping mischievous mice out.

garden by staining your

style. There are a number of nontoxic, eco-friendly

stains on the market that

can quickly transform the

look of your garden. Using a power sprayer gets the job done quickly and

evenly. Go bold with black or emerald green, which

really allows your plants’ greenery and blooms to pop.

TAILOR-MADE TRELLISING

4

CRITTER CAGES

bought plastic trellises

few bamboo poles and

lashing cord. The sky’s the limit, literally! Growing up is the best way to maxi-

mize garden space, and

you can create a number of styles ranging from Aframe to panel cages—

just be sure to master the square lashing knot for extra study support.

PLANTING WITH PURPOSE

SMARTER SPRAYS

nothing new, but by plottions you can increase

harvests while deterring pests and disease. Use

low-growing herbs or tender greens with shallow

roots below taller plantings to aid in soil cover-

age and water retention.

Try experimenting with alliums and marigolds,

which can be tucked in

tightly in between other vegetables to keep bad bugs at bay.

we’ve got an extension

more efficiently and allow you to customize planting areas each season. Micro-sprays can be at-

tached to traditional drip

lines by puncturing a hole in the main line and run-

ning a smaller tube out to where water is needed

most—the plant’s roots.

Heads can be adjusted

for larger spray patterns

or turned off completely, allowing you to increase

watering to specific areas or seasons when needed.

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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Four Ways Caesarstone Makes the Home

1

HOW DO YOU MAKE A GREAT ROOM GREATER? BY ADDING BEAUTY, VERSATILITY, AND DURABILITY TO EVERY FACET.

When a busy Los Angeles couple with a young child remodeled their open plan kitchen and great room, they saw an opportunity to design a space that was warm, welcoming, beautiful, and that could stand the test of time.

To check things off this domestic dream punch list, they chose to integrate Caesarstone into every facet of their living space: from the bar, to the fireplace, to the central hub of a kitchen designed to grow with their needs. Here are four smart and stylish ways they used Caesarstone’s unmatched combination of beauty, versatility, and durability to transform their new house into a multifunctional family home.

The focal and functional center of the kitchen is this im-

pressive island that

steel, more durable

than other surfaces, and naturally

antimicrobial.

serves as an infinite-

2/ NO VEIN, NO GAIN

the homeowners,

merous designs give

ly flexible space for

Caesarstone’s nu-

both busy profes-

homeowners and

sionals. Made of two massive pieces of

Caesarstone, it’s big

enough to serve as a dining table, kitchen prep zone, and laptop ready worksta-

tion… all at the same time. Worry free and easy to clean were paramount to the

homeowners, and

Caesarstone fit the

bill due to its quartz foundation that

makes it harder than

44

3

designers extreme

flexibility in dialing in

4

just the right shade

and degree of detail.

The subtle veining in the Palm Shade

quartz countertop

they chose for the island and counters

gives the surface an organic and natural

quality without being

distracting. The overall impact is one of a soothing white serenity but it

S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

welcomes the sort of

fireplace mantle, the

function this busy

used Black Tempal.

use and casual

family requires of

such a central cooking, dining, and work space.

3 / HEARTH AND HOME To help modernize the traditional

homeowners also

stools and light fixtures.

The soothing dark

4 / BAR NONE

ing smoke-like detail-

fireplace is the great

hue, with its contrast-

Just across from the

ing, creates a sooth-

room’s bar, which

ing sense of shadowy volume and echoes

the darker design elements in the room, such as the bar

the couple uses

when entertaining visiting family and friends. Here they

used Caesarstone in

Black Tempal on the two-level counter,

picking up the color of the fireplace. the

handsome bar is the perfect surface for

both drink prep and putting out snacks as it’s stain proof

and can take high traffic use around the holidays.

THOMAS J. STORY; 4 - WINE: COURTESY OF RED THREAD WINES

1 / ISLAND RETREAT

2

Sunset Page Template.indd 1

10/6/23 11:52 PM

92 POINTS

Drink Responsibly. © 2023, Purple Wines, Napa, CA

“…this eloquent red is rich and inviting, with curvaceous body…flavors of violets, espresso, black plum, and dark chocolate are sleek and generous.”

STY LED BY NAT UR E

LEARN MORE

Sunset Page Template.indd 1

Our winemaking philosophy is to leave a light footprint, or no footprint at all. We select only the best fruit and allow the grape varietal character to shine.

10/6/23 11:59 PM

RECIPE AND PHOTOGRAPHS ARE FROM THE RANCH TABLE BY ELIZABETH POETT. COPYRIGHT © 2023 BY ELIZABETH POETT. REPRINTED BY PERMISSION OF MAGNOLIA PUBLICATIONS, AN IMPRINT OF HARPERCOLLINS PUBLISHERS. PHOTOGRAPHY © BJ GOLNICK.

FOOD & DRINK

Holidays on the Ranch

Every year, California rancher Elizabeth Poett takes a pause from working the land to bake seasonal sweets for family and friends. Here she shares a few of her favorites from her new cookbook, The Ranch Table.

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ong before Elizabeth Poett became the host of Ranch to Table on the Magnolia Network and grew a robust social media following with her posts about living and cooking on a 14,000-acre cattle ranch, her family had been working the land on California’s Central Coast—for seven generations to be exact. Poett’s family’s ranch, Rancho San Julian, dates back to 1837, when the Mexican government granted her great-great-great-great-grandfather the land near Lompoc, which by today’s measures is an hour’s drive north of Santa Barbara. While the business of cattle ranching and growing apricots and lavender remains the same as it has for over a century, Poett, alongside her husband Austin, has taken a 21st-century approach to telling the story: with cooking workshops and dinners through her business the Ranch Table, the TV show, social media r e v io u s P posts recapping the range of activmP ag ro e F ities from pig feeding to pie making, and mail-order merch. Her new book, The Ranch Table: Recipes From a Year of Harvests, Celebra“Airy meringues seem fancy and sophisticated, but they’re actually one of the simplest cookies tions, and Family Dinners on a Hisaround. Just whip egg whites with sugar, add the flavoring of your choice (in this case it’s instant espresso powder), and spoon dollops onto a sheet pan. The result is light, chewy, and toric California Ranch, collects dozcrunchy all at once. They’re so easy, in fact, that I make various kinds of meringue cookies all ens of simple and satisfying year, flavored with whatever ingredients I have on hand. These meringues will keep at room recipes organized around the temperature in an airtight container for a couple of days.” rhythms and events of California M A K ES 24 C O O K I ES Central Coast ranch life such as “Breakfast After a Hunt,” “Beach by little. When everything has been com6 egg whites, at room temperature Cookout,” and “Holiday Baking bined, whisk the mixture until the meringue 4¼ tsp. instant espresso powder Party.” The latter is from where holds stiff peaks, about 5 more minutes. Do 1½ cups granulated sugar we’ve sourced these delicious desnot overbeat. serts Poett makes by the dozen 1. Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a sheet pan 4. Use a spoon to make large dollops of meeach holiday to bring to fellow with parchment paper. ringue on the prepared sheet pan; you ranchers, family, and friends. Like 2. Put the egg whites into the bowl of a stand should end up with 8 individual meringues, so many of Poett’s recipes, there’s mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or a evenly spaced. Bake the meringues for 45 an unfussy, homey appeal to them large bowl if using a hand mixer, and whisk minutes, then turn off the heat and let them that comes from a farming culture until white and frothy and almost beginning cool in the oven. When the meringues have where time is precious and the into hold soft peaks, about 5 minutes. cooled, remove them from the pan with a gredients are few but of the high3. Keep whisking while slowly adding the spatula. Store the meringues in an airtight est quality. We hope you enjoy espresso powder and then the sugar, little container for 2 to 3 days. these with your family this holiday Don’t try to make meringues on a very humid or damp day; season just as Poett and her family TIP: the egg whites won’t whip up to their full volume. do on their beautiful ranch.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

© BJ GOLNICK

Espresso Meringue Cookies

Cowboy Brittle “This sweet, crunchy brittle is a favorite holiday treat

1. Grease two sheet pans with butter.

2. Combine butter, sugar, and water in

4. While the brittle continues to cool,

ing sugar-based candies. This process can seem intimi-

mometer to the side of the pot with

chocolate chips in a double boiler

All you need is a candy thermometer that attaches to the

the bottom of the pot. Cook the mix-

(without touching the bottom of the pot). Then you simply

es 250°F, about 10 minutes.

among everyone in my family. The recipe comes from my husband Austin’s mom, Debbie. She shared it with me

years ago, and it introduced me to the technique for mak-

a deep pot. Attach a candy ther-

dating if you’ve never done it, but it’s actually super simple:

the end in the liquid but not touching

side of the pot and sticks down into the cooking liquid

ture over medium heat until it reach-

watch the thermometer until the mixture reaches the right temperature, pour it onto a prepared pan, and let it cool.

combine. Continue to cook the mix-

handfuls of crushed almonds.”

mediately pour it onto the prepared

Last, you spread on some melted chocolate and add

ture until it reaches 300°F, then im-

M A K ES 1 2 C U P S

pans, dividing it evenly. Do not move the pans around; let the caramel

2 cups (4 sticks) salted butter, plus

spread naturally. Let the brittle sit

2 cups granulated sugar

handle it, about 5 minutes; it should

1 cup sliced almonds

edges and shouldn’t be goopy in the

2 cups finely crushed almonds

two. Gently flip each big piece of

SPECIAL TOOLS

pan, and use a paper towel to very

more for greasing

until it is just cool enough to safely

3 Tbsp. water

have hardened slightly around the

12 oz. milk chocolate chips

center—if it is, wait another minute or

Candy thermometer

© BJ GOLNICK

3. Add the sliced almonds and stir to

brittle over, set it back into the same carefully wipe the butter off the top

of the brittle, trying not to break it.

prepare the chocolate: Melt the

(or in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water) over medium

heat, stirring frequently with a rubber spatula.

5. When the chocolate has melted,

spread one-fourth of it onto each

slab of brittle and sprinkle each with one-fourth of the crushed almonds.

Flip both slabs over, placing them

back in their pans (it’s fine if some of the almonds fall off). Divide the re-

maining melted chocolate between the two slabs. Spread it out, and

sprinkle it with the remaining al-

monds. Let the chocolate firm up until it has fully hardened, at least 2 hours, then break the brittle into

smaller pieces to serve or wrap up.

Store it in an airtight container so that it maintains its crisp texture.

Caramel Corn Drizzled with Chocolate “Caramel corn is a fun, affordable, and pretty quick treat to make for a crowd.

To get the caramel to really coat all the popcorn (instead of making big clumps), you’ll need to heat it in the oven a couple of times as you stir it

into the popcorn. To do this, I pour it

into a 10-by-18-inch disposable aluminum tray with 3-inch sides; they’re

easy to find in any supermarket. You

can also divide the popcorn between

two high-sided sheet pans and reheat it for half the time called for in the recipe.”

M A K ES 2 5 C U P S ¼ cup vegetable oil

1 cup popcorn kernels

1½ cups packed light brown sugar 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter ½ cup light corn syrup 1 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. baking soda

10 oz. dark or semisweet chocolate chips

SPECIAL TOOLS

Large (10-by-18-inch) disposable aluminum pan (optional)

Candy thermometer Wax paper

1. Put the oil and popcorn kernels in a Dutch oven or a very large pot and coated. Cover the pot with a tight-

fitting lid and set over medium heat.

2. When the popping starts, shake the pot occasionally and turn the pot

around on the stove once in a while

to avoid having a single hot spot on the bottom.

3. When the popping slows down to

just 1 to 2 pops per second, remove

the pot from the stove and pour the

popcorn into a large disposable aluminum pan, if using, or two sheet

pans. You will have about 20 heaping cups. Discard any unpopped kernels.

4. Preheat the oven to 200°F. 5. Combine the brown sugar, butter, corn syrup, and salt in a medium

saucepan set over medium heat.

Melt the butter and sugar, stirring

occasionally, then bring the mixture to a rolling boil.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

6. Let the mixture boil, stirring constantly, until the temperature

reaches 250°F on a candy ther-

on two sheets of wax paper. Let the

popcorn cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

mometer, about 5 minutes. Remove

10. While the popcorn is cooling, melt

baking soda, standing back in case

boiler (or a large heatproof bowl

from the heat and carefully add the the mixture creates steam. Quickly stir the baking soda into the mix-

ture until it is thoroughly combined.

7. Quickly pour the caramel over the popcorn (dividing it evenly be-

tween the two sheet pans, if necessary) and stir thoroughly to coat the popcorn.

8. Place the caramel popcorn in the

oven and bake it for 15 minutes. Remove the popcorn from the oven

and stir it well again to coat more

of the kernels. Put the popcorn back in the oven for another 15 minutes, then stir again.

9. Remove the popcorn from the pan and spread it out in an even layer

the chocolate chips in a double

set over a pot of simmering water) over medium heat, stirring frequently with a rubber spatula.

11. Use a spoon to drizzle the chocolate slowly and evenly over the

popcorn in a thin stream, going

back and forth across the layer of caramel corn. The chocolate will

not totally cover the popcorn, but try to make sure that every piece

has at least a little bit of chocolate on it.

12. Let the chocolate cool completely for at least 1 hour, then break up the caramel corn into large pieces to store

or serve. Store the popcorn in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days.

For more delicious recipes, check out The Ranch Table: Recipes from a Year of Harvests, Celebrations, and Family Dinners on a Historic California Ranch, $40, HARPERCOLLINS.COM © BJ GOLNICK

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L.A.’S REIGNING KING OF

PESCATARIAN RESTAURANT PERFECTION SHARES HOLIDAY-WORTHY RECIPES

FROM HIS NEW HOT SPOT, QUEEN ST. Photographs by T HOM A S J. S TORY

HOLIDAY 2023 • SUNSET • PAGE 53

few years ago, a little restaurant called Found Oyster opened on Fountain Avenue in Los Angeles and put a very SoCal spin on the New England seafood shack: It had impressive platters piled high with shellfish (one is cheekily called the Baywatch), and scallop tostada with yuzu kosho, and caviar service with potato chips. Before pandemic rules added much-needed patio dining, it was just one long counter with stools and a handful of two-tops crammed into a space about 12 feet wide and about twice as deep. It had a smart, short list of zippy wines that go great with seafood, and a convivial vibe typical of little restaurants with tons of seafood and good wines.

Despite the requisite pandemic detour, the spot was pretty much thronged from the minute it opened. It didn’t take reservations, so savvy folks knew to line up at opening time, snag a seat early, and immerse themselves in an evening of freshly shucked oysters and crudos washed down with chilled bottles of orange wine alongside other folks just happy to be crammed shoulder to shoulder in the hands of a crew that knows what it’s doing.

That crew is led by Ari Kolender, a chef who’s worked around Los Angeles, with a fresh-bivalve-sourcing assist from general manager Joe Laraja, whose family conveniently owns an oyster farm in Massachusetts.

Now Kolender and crew have taken a similar approach with their new restaurant, Queen St., in L.A.’s Eagle Rock neighborhood, where they (and their guests) can stretch out and get more personal. The new restaurant’s name

refers to a fabled commercial street in Kolender’s hometown of Charleston, South Carolina, and the menu marries Southern and Southern California influences in dishes like blue crab fritters with buttermilk ranch, oysters topped with Santa Barbara urchin and caviar, and fried flounder served with spicy apricot agrodolce.

Not only is the menu more wide-ranging, but the space is larger, with a horseshoe bar in the center and a raw bar piled high with pebble ice and oysters, and, for the first time, reservations, making it all the better for groups and parties. And parties are exactly what we had in mind when we approached Kolender to share some of the more celebratory dishes from his menu that would be right at home at a holiday feast. He came back with these recipes: broiled oysters spiked with Parm and Worcestershire, crudo dressed with dill, rich lamb ribs topped with a vibrant salsa verde, and more. They are simple, satisfying, a little indulgent, and sure to impress your family and friends.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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GRILLED LAMB RIBS

“Every holiday I think of lamb,” says Kolender. “Grandma

used to make rack of lamb with mint jelly every winter when I was growing up. This version swaps the Ninja Turtle–colored condiment for an anchovy-spiked salsa verde. The

lamb can be braised well in advance and will hold in the

fridge for a few days if need be. That way, all you need to do is grill or sear the meat to heat it back up during the rest of your busy holiday celebration.”

S E R V ES 4 – 6

4½ lbs. lamb ribs

2 tsp. kosher salt

6 sprigs fresh thyme

1 Tbsp. ground cumin 2½ cups red wine

6 large shallots, thinly sliced crosswise 4 cloves garlic

2 28 oz. cans whole peeled tomatoes 1 clove garlic

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp. lemon juice 8 anchovy filets

½ cup basil leaves

1 cup parsley leaves 1

3

cup olive oil

6 Tbsp. breadcrumbs

Lemon wedges, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 325°F on convection, or 350°F standard.

2. Season the ribs with kosher salt, dried thyme, and ground cumin. Let them sit 20 minutes in the fridge.

3. Meanwhile, put the red wine, shallots, garlic, and tomatoes in a medium bowl and stir, breaking the tomatoes in half.

4. Arrange the ribs in one even layer in a baking dish (you

may need a second dish, depending on size). The ribs will stick together if you stack them. Ladle the tomato-wine

mix over the lamb and cover the dish(es) tightly with foil.

Bake 2½ to 3 hours. You are looking for the meat to be fork-

QUEEN ST. SA L A D

“This is our namesake salad at the restaurant. Easy, delicious, and full of flavor.”

S E R V ES 4 – 6

For the dressing: cup olive oil

tender, starting to separate from the bones.

1

remaining ingredients except breadcrumbs into a blender

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

5. While the lamb is baking, make the salsa verde. Place all

and blend on high for about 20 seconds, making sure that everything is well incorporated. Add a touch more olive oil if needed. Set aside.

6. Remove the ribs from the oven and let cool to room tem-

perature, so you can handle them properly. Slice them into 2-bone pieces, and reserve all the goodies from the pan for later.

7. When it’s time to eat, briefly grill the ribs to mark them, or

sear them in a heavy-bottomed pan. You can also warm them back up in the oven.

8. To serve, place a dollop of the salsa verde onto each piece of lamb and give it a good smear. Sprinkle breadcrumbs

3

2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar 1 Tbsp. lemon juice

1 small clove garlic, grated or finely chopped Pinch of salt

For the salad:

1 big head Salanova or Gem lettuce 18 honey dates, pitted and halved

½ cup almonds, toasted and rough chopped ½ cup grated Fiscalini Cheddar 1 cup parsley leaves

1 cup basil leaves, torn in half

4 stalks celery, cut on a bias ¼-inch thick

on top of the salsa, and place the ribs onto a platter. Serve

1. To make the dressing, put all the ingredients into a bowl

shallots from the pan drippings.

2. Place all of the salad ingredients into a big bowl and toss

with lemon and a sidecar of all the leftover tomatoes and

and whisk together until well combined.

with the dressing, reserving some herbs, a few dates, and a little cheese to garnish.

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

57

C H A R - B R O I LE D

OYSTERS

“While you can broil any oyster, they will shrink in size when

they cook, so you should take that into account. I like to broil larger oysters. So if I go to the market and buy a bushel of

oysters, I like to set the big ones aside for broiling, and the smaller ones for shucking and eating raw.”

S E R V ES 4 – 6

12 Tbsp. (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbsp. lemon juice

1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley

3 large cloves garlic, grated or finely chopped 1 Tbsp. finely ground black pepper

About 2 cups kosher salt (or more, if needed, to line the bottom of your skillet)

12 shucked oysters on the half shell (any medium or large variety will be great)

½ cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 lemon, cut into wedges, for serving

1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the butter, Worces-

tershire, lemon juice, parsley, garlic and black pepper. Lay

out plastic wrap and roll the butter on it into a 2-inch-thick

log. If you are making the oysters within the next few hours,

you can simply keep the butter covered at room temperature. Otherwise, refrigerate it; it will keep for a few days,

and it’s great on toast or pasta. (In the freezer, it will keep for several months.)

2. Meanwhile, pour the kosher salt into a medium bowl and

then add water 1 Tbsp. at a time, mixing it together until the salt begins to clump and stick to the touch. Lay the salt mixture into a cast-iron skillet in an even layer.

3. Nestle shucked oysters on the half shell into the salt so that they are stable and sitting upright without spilling their liquor. If you are not cooking the oysters right away, keep the skillet in the refrigerator until it is needed (the same day is ideal).

4. When you are ready to cook the oysters, preheat the broiler to high and place one of the oven racks on the highest level.

5. Cut 12 ¼-inch slices of the garlic butter and place one

piece atop each oyster, then top them very liberally with

freshly grated Parmesan. Place the skillet under the broiler, rotating the skillet after about 1 minute. Broil the oysters

until the butter and Parmesan are melted and the butter is sizzling around the sides of the shell—about 1 more minute.

Note: You are not looking for the Parmesan to be browned.

6. Serve immediately, with lemon wedges.

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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“This recipe is perfect for a 12-inch cast-iron skillet. It’s an

oldie but a goodie. Some call it Southern pizza, and I be-

lieve they are right.”

S E R V ES 8

2 28-oz. cans whole, peeled tomatoes

14 oz. crusty bread (I prefer sourdough for the extra acidity), day-old is fine

3 Tbsp. salted butter, melted, plus 1 Tbsp. at room temperature

2 Tbsp. sugar 2 tsp. salt

55 twists freshly ground black pepper

1 jar (usually around 3.3 ounces) or 2 cans (usually 1.73 ounces) of good anchovies, for serving

M AC K E R E L C RU D O

WITH HORSERADISH AND DILL “While I love this with the smaller Japanese mackerel (aji),

you can also use Spanish mackerel, king mackerel, yellowtail, snapper, or salmon.”

S E R V ES 4 – 6

8 oz. Japanese (aji) mackerel

½ cup Persian cucumber, peeled and diced ¼ cup crème fraîche

3 packed Tbsp. finely grated horseradish 2 Tbsp. finely diced cornichons

2 Tbsp. small capers, rinsed (or large capers, roughly chopped)

1 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Preheat oven to 400°F with convection, or 425°F without.

2. Pour the tomatoes into a large mixing bowl and crush them by hand until they have a rustic, chunky texture.

3. Tear the bread into roughly 1-to-1½-inch pieces. Add the

bread to the bowl, along with the melted butter, sugar, salt,

and black pepper. Mix it well with your hands, until all of the tomato juice has been absorbed into the bread.

4. Grease a 12-inch skillet with the room temperature butter, making sure to get both bottom and walls. Dump in the

bread mixture. Shape it into a relatively even layer, touching the walls of the skillet as much as possible to create a crust, but not pressing it or compacting it. Place it in the center of the oven. Bake until it is set, and rustically

charred, making sure that the sides of the pudding are

caramelized, about 1 hour. Once it is cooked, let it rest at least 15 minutes.

5. Serve it garnished with whole anchovy filets and more black pepper.

1 Tbsp. roughly chopped parsley leaves, plus more for garnish

1 Tbsp. finely chopped chives, plus more for garnish 1 Tbsp. roughly chopped dill, plus more for garnish

12 twists coarsely ground black pepper, plus more for garnish

½ tsp. flaky sea salt

1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Crackers, ideally something substantial, like a hearty rye cracker

1. Cut the fish into roughly ¼-inch cubes. Then place it in the fridge while you prepare the remaining ingredients.

2. In a medium mixing bowl, add the cucumbers, crème fraîche, horseradish, cornichons, capers, lemon juice,

parsley, chives, dill, black pepper, and flaky sea salt. Give it all a nice stir to combine and then fold in the mackerel, making sure every piece is well coated.

3. Spoon it onto a serving plate in a single layer, then drizzle the olive oil over the top.

4. Crack a few more twists of black pepper over the top, then

sprinkle it with additional parsley, chives, and dill to make it look fun and vibrant. Serve immediately, with crackers.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

T O M AT O A N D A N C H OV Y

BREAD PUDDING

“This pie is famous in our household. My grandmother used to airmail it to me when I first moved to California, and has been making it so long, she couldn’t (or wouldn’t) tell you

where she got the recipe. I’m led to believe that she invented it!“

S E R V ES 6 FOR THE CRUST:

2¾ cups all-purpose flour 2½ Tbsp. sugar

Pinch of kosher salt

DE R BY

14 Tbsp. (1¾ sticks) cold unsalted butter, cubed

1 large egg

¾ cup whole milk

PIE

1 pound dried beans FOR THE FILLING:

¾ cup unsalted butter, melted, but not hot ¾ cup brown sugar

1¼ cup light corn syrup 3 eggs

1 tsp. vanilla extract

1 cup chopped pecans ½ cup chocolate chips

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Place flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse

them for a few seconds to combine. Add in the cubed butter and pulse for 10 seconds, or until it is marbled.

3. Beat the eggs into the milk in a small bowl and add to the

food processor in batches, pulsing each for about 10 sec-

onds. If you pinch the dough and it is still crumbly, then you need to add about another Tbsp. of liquid.

4. Remove the dough and flatten it into a disc a few inches

thick. Wrap in plastic and let it rest in the fridge 30 minutes.

5. Once ready, place the dough onto a floured tabletop and roll out to ½-inch thickness.

6. Place the dough into a 12-inch baking pan and gently work it onto and over the sides. Cut the dough accordingly to fit the shape of the pan. Poke holes into the base of the dough with a fork.

7. Wrap the beans in foil to use as pie weights. Place the

wrapped beans onto the dough, making sure they reach

the sides of the pan. Bake the shell at 350°F for 20 minutes, then remove the beans and cook another 20 minutes. Re-

move and let the shell rest until it reaches room temperature. Keep the oven heated to 350°F.

8. Meanwhile, make the filling. Place all the ingredients into a bowl and whisk together until thoroughly combined.

9. As soon as your shell cools, place the filing into it and bake 45 minutes or until the middle of the pie looks set. Remove and let rest for at least 1 hour.

PICKLE D

SHRIM P SAL AD “One of my favorite ways to eat shrimp, this recipe com-

sizzle, for about 15 seconds, breaking the onion up with a

shellfish.”

and let them cook about 10 more seconds. Add the white

bines sharp acidic veggies with perfectly tender cooked S E R V ES 4 – 6

wooden spoon, then stir in the bell pepper and serrano

wine vinegar and turmeric and let the entire mixture come up to a boil. The moment it boils, remove it from the heat

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to finish

and transfer it to a wide bowl. Allow it to cool to room tem-

½ tsp. coriander

perature, then transfer it to the fridge to cool completely

½ tsp. cumin seeds

while you prepare the remaining vegetables and shrimp.

½ tsp. fennel seeds

2. Wipe out the pot (or use a fresh one) and fill it about two-

2 medium yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced

thirds full with water. Season it with salt until it tastes salty

lengthwise

like the sea. Bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, set

4 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced

up a bowl of ice water to shock the vegetables.

Kosher salt

3. Once the water is boiling, add the carrots, zucchini, and

1 medium red bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch-by-1-inch

fennel. Blanch until they are just barely wilted—about 20

matchsticks

seconds. Use a strainer or slotted spoon to transfer them

1 serrano chile, halved, seeded, and sliced into ¼-inch

directly into the ice bath.

matchsticks (optional, depending on spice tolerance)

4. Cut the lemon in half, squeeze the juice into the boiling

1.5 cups white wine vinegar

water and add the rinds. Reduce the heat to 190°F, or just

2 tsp. ground turmeric

below a boil. (If you are working quickly after blanching the

2 medium carrots, sliced into thin coins

vegetables, you can simply turn off the heat and cook with

2 small-to-medium zucchini, sliced into thin coins

the residual heat.) Add the shrimp and give them a stir. Al-

1 bulb fennel, thinly sliced

low them to poach until just cooked through, about 2

1 lemon

minutes.

32 large shrimp, peeled (about 2½ lbs.)

1½ cups mixed, thinly sliced fresh herbs (such as parsley, chives, cilantro, and tarragon)

1 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lime juice

5. Transfer them to the ice bath and then allow the shrimp to just barely chill and stop cooking, about 20 seconds. Lift out the shrimp and vegetables, let them drain, and lay

them onto a paper-towel-lined plate. Transfer them to the

Flaky sea salt

fridge to cool further. Once everything is fully chilled and

Crusty bread

you are ready to serve, dump the vinegar mixture into a

large mixing bowl, along with the shrimp, shocked vegeta-

1. Place the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over high heat.

Once the oil is hot but not quite smoking, add the coriander, cumin, and fennel, and let them fry for about 5 sec-

onds. Add the onions, garlic, and a pinch of salt. Let them

bles, and lime juice. It can be served right away, but for best results allow it to sit, chilled, for 20 minutes. Once

chilled, season it to taste with flaky salt and serve with crusty bread.

2020 Egret Chardonnay Sonoma Valley

Perfect Pairings We selected the ideal bottles to serve with this menu, and they’re available to members of our wine club. Sign up for quarterly deliveries of the best wines in the West at sunset.com/wineclub

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

This Chardonnay offers enough body to stand next to richer meat dishes, while giving a bright citrusy note that pairs great with the broiled oysters.

2021 Soléna Estate Pinot Noir Grande Cuvée Willamette Valley

This Oregon Pinot Noir gives a burst of bright cranberry, cola, spice, and a dash of woodsiness.

The soft tannins make it great with the mackerel crudo.

2021 Andis Painted Fields Curse of Knowledge Sierra Foothills

This Cab blend has flavors of plum and dried orange peel that are evocative of the holidays. It’s a winner with the Queen St. Salad or the derby pie.

2021 Timeline Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

The holidays are all about indulgence, and the rich and layered plum and spice flavors of this Cab are perfect with the lamb ribs.

2021 Ashlyn Pinot Gris Willamette Valley

When the holiday feast demands a lighter wine to start, this is perfect. Bright citrus, dried apple, white flowers, and a subtle hazelnut flavor. Serve with the broiled oysters.

2019 Giannecchini Estate Blend Mendocino

Ideal at the holiday table, this wine is packed with dark fruit like plums and cassis, mixed spice, and savory herbs.

Great with the lamb ribs.

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10/11/23 10/9/23 3:34 8:05 PM

KONA VILLAGE, A ROSEWOOD RESORT

T R AV E L & E S C A P E S

Going Back to Kona

On a return trip to the Big Island of Hawaii we revisit Kona Village, a reborn resort that connects past and present.

Story by H U G H GARVE Y

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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KONA VILLAGE, A ROSEWOOD RESORT

HUGH GARVEY

at Kona Village, a resort the Big Island of Hawaii, listening to Auntie Lei tell stories about the tsunami of 2011. Under the canopy of a koa tree, in an open-air cookhouse built of lava rocks gathered from the eruption of Mauna Loa in 1855, sit a scuba instructor, a lawyer, several retirees, and their children and grandchildren. This group of guests has been coming to the resort off and on over the past 50 years, and this is a reunion of sorts. Kona Village, which first opened in 1966, has just reopened again after being closed for over 10 years, and these legacy guests have been invited by the resort to meet with Auntie Lei, a legendary employee who has worked by turns as a server, a hula dancer, an activities director, and now a cultural ambassador. They all know her from past visits, and they listen, rapt, as she tells the story of the night the tsunami

barreled through, tore the thatched huts from their pylons, blew out the windows of the main dining room, and pulled an outrigger out of the bay, launching it over the beach, past the guest cottages, and into the anchialine ponds at the back of the resort.

In one massive wave, the tsunami ended the decades of annual repeat visits from the people at the table in the cookhouse, and left the property in redevelopment limbo for the next twelve years. This year it finally reopened as a Rosewood Resort, and it’s a stunner. It’s a gleaming property crisscrossed with crushed-coral pathways luminous under the moon and flickering torches. Infinity pools overlook a protected bay lined with leaning palms. Well-appointed cottages hug the dramatic black-lava coast. It’s the sort of low-slung, luxurious retreat that visitors fantasize about when they envision the simple version Opposite page: of what they want Hawaii to be.

Traditional The pre-tsunami Kona Village outriggers on the beach. This was a hotel that time forgot, and page: Guest over the years had developed a suites perched cultlike following because it reabove the lava. sisted change. Originally opened in 1965 by Johnno Jackson, an avid sailor who wanted to create a tropical island fantasia, Kona Village was a time machine, a dream factory, a memory maker. For the first few years the only way to reach it was by plane, cut off as it was by fields of lava flow. The old schooner Jackson had sailed around the South Pacific sank in the bay one day and was pulled up onto the beach and became the shipwreck bar. Thatched-roof huts known as hales, with no TVs and no air-conditioning, dotted the beach.

On my first visit, 17 years ago, I stepped back in time to a hotel that hadn’t changed much since it opened. There was a stocked fish pond with a rack of bamboo fishing poles that unsupervised kids swung freely, hooks and all, as parents sipped mai tais by the pool. There were rumors that you could purchase weed from the beach hut. It was the sort of place where families would return year after year, eventually earning a coconut with their name on it that would sit in the dining room. There were luaus, an abundant buffet of white honey, guavas, and lilikoi, Kalua pig with mahogany skin crisp from the imu, lazy lunches of grilled burgers and local tuna sashimi. Locals worked there for decades, their names on handwritten signs in garden plots they tended. It wasn’t fancy, but it was a perfect antidote to the grander, multilevel resorts up and down the coast.

There were puzzling quirks that could either charm or challenge, depending on the guest: green plastic dining chairs that looked like they could’ve been bought at a hardware store. No AC in an area where 90-degree temperatures weren’t uncommon.

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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FROM LEFT: KONA VILLAGE, A ROSEWOOD RESORT; HUGH GARVEY

It wasn’t for everyone, unless they un- Below: An oceanfront derstood the power of imperfection. bedroom. Right: A saltwater pond that’s Steve Jobs was one of its most famous home to fish that feed repeat guests, and Kona Village was seals at a nearby reone of the few places he could fully un- habilitation center. wind. It was the polar opposite of the minimalist, controlled, black-and-white digitized world he’d invented. On my first visit I walked up to the beach to take in the view and stood behind a man gazing out at the ocean. He turned around, and it was Jobs himself. I now realize it was the same year he’d been diagnosed with the cancer that eventually killed him. But there he was in his Issey Miyake mock turtleneck despite the tropical heat, with a beatific smile on his face, as relaxed as a person can be, and, for a moment, immortal.

We all know, now more than ever, that Hawaii is many things beyond escapist dreams. The devastation of Lahaina on Maui is a tragic reminder of the fragility of the islands, where the threats of fire, tsunami, and volcanic eruptions are a reality.

These aren’t the things we usually talk about when we talk about travel, but there at that table in the old cookhouse in the lava flow, the passing of time and the passing of loved ones and the importance of keeping that all in one’s mind were front and center. The old-timers remembered employees and guests who’d passed away over the years, and they spoke of how when they’re gone they hope their children’s children will play under the koa trees like they did. Auntie Lei spoke of the destructive but also generative power of the volcanoes. She proudly told

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

There were luaus, and a buffet with guavas and lilikoi, and Kalua pig with mahogany skin crisp from the imu, and lazy lunches of grilled burgers and local sashimi.

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

that modern zoning doesn’t allow for anymore. The pools are grander, with infinity edges and attentive service and octopus tostadas and mezcal cocktails. The spa is as Japanese and Scandinavian as it is Hawaiian in its design; treatment rooms and lounge areas have sweeping views of Mauna Loa. Fresh coconuts spiked with rum are trotted out on a cart in the afternoon. The restaurants reference Noma as much as they do Kona, with satisfying sticky pork ribs alongside more conceptual dishes. And the shipwreck bar is exactly where it was when it was pulled up and out of the bay back in the 1960s, although you can now get a negroni made with rare gin from the Black Forest if you’re not in the mood for a mai tai.

One day at the pool, I meet a family who’ve been coming to the resort for decades: The grandfather is in his nineties, his kids in their sixties, and their kids in their twenties. They reminisce about their late grandmother on past visits and wonder if

KONA VILLAGE, A ROSEWOOD RESORT

the group how she and other employees and locals had rallied to push through a moratorium on overfishing of the coast just outside the resort and how over ten years the fish population was returning. In the middle of our vacation, instead of checking out, we checked in with each other and our place in this world.

At the new Kona Village, the plastic chairs are gone and there’s air conditioning in all the rooms, which are meticulously decorated with minimalist, modernist tropical furniture Jobs himself might have approved of. While the tones are subdued, the upgrades are numerous, and the resort has gone decidedly low-key luxe. Knowing the possibility of new multigenerational traditions, there are private villas with multiple bedrooms, full kitchens, and butler service. Several hales have balconies pushed up to the edge of the lava flow, the mist of the ocean mere yards away, with that edge-of-the-world feeling

tells me that working at the resort gives him the ability to be able to directly educate visitors on the fragility of the ocean ecosystem. Later I tour petroglyphs on the edge of the resort.

It’s an on-site museum of the area: Sail designs and hunting scenes dating back to the 1800s are etched into the lava.

Back at the cookhouse, the old-timers talk of the people who’ve passed, and I realize paradise, and its connotations of the afterlife, is a word we use to describe Hawaii. Auntie Lei hands out native grass and everyone starts weaving garlands and picture frames and hats. The reunion officially comes to a close, but the legacy guests and their kids and their kids linger, sitting around a table as Auntie Lei continues to tell stories. Nobody gets up. They weave grass and listen. They can’t know for sure if or when they will be back, so they stay and make a memory to keep forever. They focus on their weaving and listen to Auntie Lei. They don’t want to leave.

KONA VILLAGE, A ROSEWOOD RESORT

the new guests would understand the magic of the place. While the past is the past, the new resort was rebuilt with sustainability and cultural responsibility in mind. The fish ponds are no longer catch-and-release, the invasive tilapia that swim in them (and that guests catch) are now fed to rehabbed seals at a nearby animal sanctuary. The resort boasts the largest solar array in HaOpposite page: The dining room at Moana, waii; once online, it will remove the which was once the site resort from the power grid. A weekly of the restaurant that farmers’ market hosts local vendors was flooded during the for free. tsunami. This page: Shipwreck bar remains One strikingly clear morning, I right where it was paddle out up the coast on an outrigplaced in the 1960s ger with Kalani, a local guide who when a sunken schootakes me to a spot where sharks pull ner was pulled from the bay. up and let reef fish clean them. He

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

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FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

Sustainable Luxury at Four Seasons Hualalai

FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI

How the storied Kona resort is upgrading its cultural and environmental practices.

The catamaran cuts up the Kona coast past striking black-sand beaches made by lava boulders that have been ground down by the waves over the past 150 years. Mauna Loa is in the distance on the port side. A pod of spinner dolphins glides toward us on the starboard side. The captain cuts the engines, and the dolphins escort us as we slowly float with the current. It’s a preposterously beautiful convergence of sea, epic views, sublime weather, and ocean wildlife. We’ve booked this boat ride through the Alaka’i Nalu ocean activities program at the Four Seasons Hualalai where we’re wrapping up the tail end of vacation on the Kona coast, our first return trip in thirteen years. In the intervening years, the resort has upgraded its facilities with a resort-wide $100 million renovation, with an eye on sustainability and cultural preservation along with luxury. We’re here to, yes, relax, but also to experience firsthand how they’ve integrated these elements into the guest experience.

At the heart of the cultural program is the Ka’ūpūlehu Cultural Center, a sizable facility located at a prime position in the center of the resort. Staffed with a team of professional musicians, dancers, and plant specialists, it offers round-theclock programming and workshops on Hawaiian culture. Under the direction of lifelong educator Kaaiohelo McAfee-Torco, the center offers classes on Hawaiian language, star navigation, plant identification, alongside courses on lei making and other botanical Clockwise from crafts. On our visit, we make leis from flowers top left: The lushly landscaped recepharvested from the garden of Michelle Kaulation area; the view mahiehie Amaral, a highly regarded hula soloist from a carbon-neuwho is also a stellar lei maker. During the lestral private villa; son, she shared some liberating wisdom as I King’s Pond; an outdoor shower struggled to keep my flowers strung straight: A made of lava rocks. lei’s beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and even the less florally skilled of us can make one by simply lashing a few loose blossoms to a folded ti leaf.

The resort’s history of environmental stewardship dates back to the early 1990s, when restoration of onsite natural ponds commenced with the help of the resort’s director of natural resources, David Chai, who also helped lead the 10year moratorium on fishing in the waters just off the resort.

Among the array of pools at the resort, the most striking is King’s Pond, a veritable aquarium that is home to dozens of species of fish. Here children can safely snorkel with the fish and learn about the fragile ocean ecosystem from the staff marine biologist, who is part of a team that’s working with the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources to catalog and count fish as part of the fishery rehabilitation program, putting resort staff on the front lines of ocean conservation.

On land, the resort has planted over 50,000 indigenous koa trees, in partnership with the Hawaiian Legacy Reforestation Initiative, to help offset the carbon from stays in its rooms and private villas. And with 75 percent of the resort’s produce, meat, and fish sourced from local farmers and purveyors, and an on-property oyster farm, the resort’s restaurants are keeping money on the island and closing the locavore loop.

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

73

Checking into

Winter Colorado’s new A-Frame Club is a perfect mashup of retro nostalgia and classic mountain-town hygge. Plus, Big Bear is back!

Story by

Photographs by

KRI STA S I M M O N S

TH O MAS J. STO RY

75

S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

C

radling a cup of coffee, I peer out the windows of the A-frame onto the snow-fleeced Fraser River. Inside, a Malm fireplace warms the room, which is adorned with black-andwhite prints of Hunter S. Thompson, and Johnny Cash croons over the speakers. It’s a shagadelic scene reminiscent of the ’70s, but cranking the heat dial via Bluetooth, I’m reminded that this is very much 2023.

We’re among the first guests to stay in this new collection of 31 mid-century-style cabins at the A-Frame Club, which opened for its inaugural season in Winter Park, Colorado, in January 2023. Around happy hour, the vibey chalet is jumping.

Locals and visitors have packed the property’s Saloon for après; craft cocktails are clinking, and tables overflow with modern takes on French Alpine fare. It’s standing room only at the bar, and it’s clear that the opening is a big one.

Denver-based Zeppelin Development built the lodge, which is located less than one-third of a mile from the base of the oldest continually operated ski resort in the state. It’s situated on three acres in historic Old Town Winter Park, and really plays

A picturesque snowshoeing path along the Fraser River for guests and locals to enjoy.

A cluster of A-Frame Club’s custom-built cabins in Winter Park, Colorado.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

The retro-chic living space inside the AFrame cabins look out onto a sprucedotted winter wonderland.

A vintage Jeep Wagoneer serves as the A-Frame Club’s house car to take guests to the ski resort nearby.

78

S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

The lounge area at the Saloon is the perfect spot to cozy up for cocktails around the Malm fireplace.

You’ll be so wrapped up in the nostalgia (or a knit blanket by the Malm fireplace) that you may never leave.

Boot warmers and gear storage make for an easy entrance and exit from the cabin to the mountain.

up the nostalgia of a bygone era. Designed by Portland-based Skylab Architects, the standalone two-story guest cabins include ski-gear storage, fully equipped kitchenettes, onsen-style soaking tubs, private decks, and swoon-worthy views of the forest outside. Noguchi lighting and Maharam rugs to add to the classic feel.

“A-Frame Club is taking mountain hospitality back to the heyday for skiing in the ’70s and ’80s that I grew up with,” said Kyle Zeppelin, founder of Zeppelin Hospitality. “It’s a throwback to a simpler time, with cabins at the base of the ski hill that open up directly to the forest and a turned-up party in the lodge.”

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

79

The groovy interior design is definitely on-point, but it’s nature that’s the real draw. In-the-know Denver-dwellers have been coming to Winter Park for years because of its proximity and ease of access. The lodge is just a few blocks away from the Winter Park Express ski-train stop, which is directly reachable from Union Station and Denver International Airport. The train ride is just over two and a half hours, marked by spectacular views of the Rockies. And getting equipment is a breeze, too, as the Alpine Sun outfitter is right next door to the Club.

Basically, it’s a one-stop shop for a turnkey winter vacation.

Aside from the skiing and snowboarding at the resort, behind the property is the Winter Park Art Trail, a self-guided 35-piece art walk that makes for an excellent morning of snowshoeing. The Jim Creek Trail loop, just outside Winter Park, is also handicap-accessible, and a great way to view wildlife and nature in the Arapaho National Forest.

If you manage to make it off property, there are plenty of mountain-town businesses worth supporting, like Idlewild Spirits distillery, freshly roasted coffee at Foxtail Coffee Co., and fantastic Himalayan food at Durbar. But if you’re like us, you’ll be so wrapped up in the nostalgia (or a knit blanket by the fireplace) that you may never leave. AFRAMECLUB.COM

Snowshoers meet along the Fraser River path, which includes an art walk featuring local artists.

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S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

Bartenders prepare soul-warming aprèsski specialties at the Saloon.

Recipes Want to create your own A-Frame après at home? Here are a few of our favorite recipes from the Saloon to enjoy this winter. Chef Nic Weber, who’s worked alongside the likes of Dominique Crenn, shares his recipe for a modern twist on an Alpine classic, French onion soup. And the Saloon’s rendition of a Clover Club cocktail provides a bit of brightness on a dreary day, and is festive for holiday parties with its red and white color.

Deconstructed French Onion Soup M A K ES 1 S E RV I N G

to let some of the cheese create

1 oz. braised beef short ribs

griddle and set aside.

2 thick slices Gruyère

a crispy edge. Remove from the

2 pieces sliced bread, preferably

Build the bowl. Place the cara-

2 cups beef bone broth, warmed

a medium soup bowl, then set

¼ cup caramelized onions

Make the sandwich. Layer short

rib and Gruyère in between slices of bread. Cook the sandwich on a flat-top or griddle pan on

melized onions on the bottom of the sandwich on top of the onions. Serve the bone broth on the side to be plated at the table.

medium-high heat, making sure

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

81

Clover Club * M A K ES 1 S E R V I N G 2 oz. gin

½ oz. fresh lemon juice

½ oz. fresh raspberry syrup Dash orange-flower water 1 egg white

Build the cocktail. Add gin, fresh lemon juice, raspberry syrup, egg-white, and a dash of orange-flower water

into a shaker with ice. Shake vigorously and strain into a cocktail coupe.

Garnish with fresh raspberries.

BigisBear Back

After last year’s punishing storms, San Bernardino Mountain towns are rebounding with locally owned offerings for mountain seekers.

Story by KRI STA S I M M O N S

The mountains are calling, and now is absolutely the time to go. The towns in the San Bernardino Mountains—including Big Bear, Arrowhead, and the surrounding areas—have always been iconic mountain escapes, especially for Angelenos looking to retreat from the rat race. But this winter, it’s even more apropos to retreat to the region, as hospitality pros are rebounding from a punishing season last year that left the area. From boutique hotels and bespoke homegoods to grocers with local sundries and a bottle shop, here are some of the spots to visit on your winter trip.

MARINA RIVIERA Originally built in 1968, this Viking-inspired lodge sits right on the edge of Big Bear Lake, and has been mindfully restored by the

Casetta Group, who also redid the charming Casa Cody in Palm Springs, to integrate the warmth and coziness of a classic ski

lodge. Located just a quick five-minute walk into town, there will also be a restaurant and bar opening on the property in the

THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT: THOMAS J. STORY; © JOSH CHO PHOTOGRAPHY

months to come. MARINARIVIERA.COM

LITTLEBEAR BOTTLESHOP Nathan Hazard’s cocktail-focused pop-up has evolved into a spe-

cialty shop in the mountain town of Skyforest, where you’ll find mindfully sourced spirits, beer, and alpine wines from around the globe

that are simpatico with the shop’s surroundings. The cozy and wel-

coming space, which was once the local firehouse, has continued to be a center for community, as Hazard was a vocal activist for disaster relief during the recent storms. LITTLEBEARBOTTLESHOP.COM

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

83

EVERGREEN CURATED GOODS Vintage hunters Neisha and Gary Wallace sell clothing,

apothecary items, small-batch sustainable goods, and

clothes for both kids and adults in their charming shop in Skyforest, just down the road from Littlebear Bottleshop

and right next door to another great spot for picking up

gifts, Base Camp. Be sure to keep an eye out for the couple’s brand Foundation Vintage—a line of hand-dyed,

natural indigo—while you shop. EVERGREENCURATEDGOODS.COM

BEAR CUPBOARDS MARKET Located in Big Bear Lake, this purveyor of provisions, produce, wine, and beer is a great way to stock up your cabin for the week. Opened by L.A.

restaurateur and bar owner Dustin Lancaster—known for crafting some of the coolest bars on the Eastside, like Capri Club and Bar Covell—and

his wife, Maya Brenner, the shop carries all the sundries you’ll need for a great week of adventuring and eating. BEARCUPBOARDSMARKET.COM

NOBLE + PROPER highly personalized touch to each of the seven unique cabins, opting to name each after one of their grandparents. Each is

stocked with Parachute bedding and cozy wood-burning stoves to keep the place warm. And on-site amenities include complimentary bicycles, BBQs, picnic tables, hammocks, and horseshoes. NOBLEANDPROPER.COM

84

S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

THOMAS J. STORY

Husband-and-wife team Sara and Sven Simon wanted to give a

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Insider

The insiders: Alicia Perry, beverage director at Consortium Holdings

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

yet approachable. It’s a

Alicia Perry is a born-and-raised San Diegan who’s been working with Consortium Holdings for nearly eight years. The company is known for crafting some of the city’s top-tier cocktail bars and restaurants, and most recently unveiled a massive seven-outlet F&B project at the Lafayette Hotel. The 1940s property has been meticulously restored, bringing Hollywood’s golden-era glamour and high design to the North Park neighborhood. Here are Perry’s recommendations on what to explore on your next visit.

shops include Pigment,

Hawthorne Coffee. Oth-

erwise, make a quick trip up to Bird Rock, and en-

STAY

is unmatched, intimate,

“Naturally, I can’t help but

recommend The Lafay-

ette Hotel. With its rebirth being so close to our

Pines is a great hike. Otherwise, the Solana Beach area is great, Seascape Surf to be exact.”

vides a thoughtful and distinguished dining experience.”

“Sitting under the skylight

supported by its local

make my way back down

Lobby Bar while taking in

evoking interest of travel-

dinner and a cocktail,

globally.“

a classic steakhouse

to the central area for

ers both nationally and

starting at Cowboy Star,”

DO

“that provides a consis-

tent yet elevated experi-

“I would start off my

ence. The space itself is

one of my favorite coffee

tainly dignified.”

morning with a visit to

warm, inviting, and cer-

shops in North Park,

Reservations are released

86

S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

guaranteed a one-stop shop to find the perfect

gift or something special.”

Michelin one-star, pro-

DRINK

community—all the while

Shop Good, Casa y

poke my head in. You’re

Chef Soichi Kadoya, now a

Following a long day out

in the sun, Perry says, “I’d

“Some of my favorite

and North Park Way] and

engaging, and refined.

EAT

remain energized and

SHOP

the tone. The experience

ate a space that would

hearts, we aimed to cre-

block [around Ray Street

make my way to that

month at Soichi Sushi.

bakery that focuses on

north up the coast, Torrey

hospitality.”

driven by genuine

month for the following “The wait-list alone sets

artisan loaves. Trekking

tage Eyewear. I tend to

at the beginning of the

joy an almond croissant from Wayfarer Bread, a

Cocina, and Revival Vin-

memorable experience

at the The Lafayette Hotel the sun and enjoying a Pimm’s Cup or Brandy

Crusta is the way to go.

Walking into the Realm of the 52 Remedies, you

can’t help but to be en-

amored of the decor in-

spired by ancient Chinese medicine. The cocktail list is inventive and alluring,

The Lafayette Hotel

PERRY: COURTESY OF CH PROJECTS; THE LAFAYETTE HOTEL: KIMBERLY MOTOS

This month: San Diego, California

Seasonal diversions and secret travel tips from local experts.

Torrey Pines

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JOHN APPS/UNSPLASH; JAMES TRAN; COWBOY STAR

Cowboy Star

Realm of the 52 Remedies

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

87

Racca’s

Lou Taubert Ranch Outfitters

MOUNTAIN WEST Backwards Distilling Company is a familyowned spirits maker that celebrates the art and science of making incredible whiskey, gin, vodka, and absinthe that utilize locally grown botanicals and ingredients, capturing the wildness of Wyoming. Amber Pollock was born and raised in Casper, and co-owns the distillery with her parents and brother. Here she shares her tips on where to visit in the state’s secondlargest city.

“Silver Fox is a Casper

legend. This restaurant

has been around for decades, and it’s easy to

see why with their top-tier service, classic menu selection, and community

favorite chef-owner. Racca’s [Neapolitan pizzeria] also keeps me coming back again and again with their super high-

quality ingredients, sea-

sonal cocktail menu, and funky, laid-back atmosphere.“

DRINK “Frank’s Butcher Shop

may be tiny, but they’ve got it going on in the

cocktail department. They carry a great selection of

88

The insider: Amber Pollock, co-founder of Backwards Distilling Company

local spirits and beers,

and incorporate unex-

pected ingredients from their butcher shop into

their drinks, like local jams and grill rubs. Get there

early to snag a spot at the bar, and try the Corpse Reviver with a plate of

hand-cut French fries.

perfect downtown evening started.“

experience some of the

to see Casper’s 100-year-

Casper continues to

available.“

Lou Taubert, where you

schedule from Opera

SHOP

Community Theatre to

local bookstore, and Wind

himself. They have high-

best. Browse the cozy

wear aficionados and ca-

vorite read, and be sure to

miss the R.W. Taubert

who run the place what

more outdoorsy

Wyoming Ale Works is

DO

They have dozens of

lively and just plain fun.

“The local arts scene in

beers on tap, a large vari-

amaze me. Scope out the

ety of cocktails, and great bites. And—shameless

plug—at Backwards Dis-

tilling Company, we have an innovative cocktail

menu that features our

craft spirits and all sorts

of unusual ingredients. It’s a great spot to grab a

drink or two to get your

S U N S E T • H O L I DAY 2023

Frank’s Butcher Shop

many tasty local brews

old Western-wear store

can smell the leather of

10,000 pairs of boots and

Wyoming or Stage III

“I’m a sucker for a great

get your hat fitted by Lou

see what’s happening.

City Books is one of the

end clothing for Western-

aisles to find your next fa-

sual cowboys alike. Don’t

ask the well-read folks

shop right next door for a

they recommend. Stop in

selection.“

Casper has become a

craft beverage hub in the last few years, boasting the most breweries of

anywhere in the state. Hit the Local Ale Trail to

POLLOCK: WYOMING OFFICE OF TOURISM; CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JEREMY MASCARENAS; VISIT CASPER; FRANK’S BUTCHER SHOP

EAT

This month: Casper, Wyoming

PACIFIC NORTHWEST Cassie Abel started the Sun Valley–based Wild Rye with the hope of offering beautiful, technical mountain apparel for women of all ages, sizes, and backgrounds, making it easier and more inclusive to explore the outdoors. The mompreneur has lived in Sun Valley for over 20 years, and shares with us her tips for making the most of your trip beyond the slopes in this iconic ski town.

The Roundhouse

STAY

This month: Sun Valley, Idaho The insider: Cassie Abel, founder and CEO, Wild Rye

fit the mountain-town

margarita. It’s my favorite!

cross-country skiing or

ideal because it’s “locat-

Covey. The cocktails are

Roundhouse for spectac-

lowed by delicious

town Ketchum, so you

san craftsmanship is wo-

around. There are heaps

taurant from the tables to

options all within a few

my other favorite, espe-

complimentary shuttle

can’t go wrong with any-

The Limelight Hotel is

ed in the heart of down-

top-notch, and local arti-

ular views and unbeat-

don’t need a car to get

ven throughout the res-

pot of fondue and you will

of dining and shopping

the artwork. Enoteca is

blocks.” They “also have

cially in the winter. You

services to and from the

thing on the menu, and

tain. Bonus: They’re dog-

list in town.“

airport and to the mounfriendly, there’s live music on the regular, and the

lounge is great for letting the kids roam.”

they boast the best wine

DRINK “After dinner, I like to grab a cocktail and sit on the Warfield Distillery &

EAT “Chef Jesse Sheue crafts

ABEL: WILD RYE; CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SUN VALLEY RESORT; RAY J. GADD (2)

rotating menus with

freshly made pastas and wood-fired entrées that

Backcountry skiing

On-hill, check out The

vibe perfectly at The

Brewery patio. All their organic beers and spirits

are made in-house, and the patio has one of the best views in town. Try their seasonal spicy

able spritz. Pair it with a have nailed my perfect day in Sun Valley!“

sledding with kids, fol-

homemade lunch. I love to unwind from a busy

day of work or adventuring with a massage at Zenergy. When your

treatment is done, you can use the saltwater

DO “The surrounding area

pool, salt sauna, or eu-

has limitless backcoun-

calyptus steam rooms.“

levels and abilities of ski-

SHOP

Just be sure you’re ava-

sporting goods shop in

try access catering to all ing and snowboarding.

“Sturtevants is the go-to

lanche-certified. If you

town for downhill and

don’t have the background, hire a guide

from Sun Valley Guides or Sawtooth Mountain

Guides. Or, if you aren’t

ready for the deep backcountry, head north to Galena Lodge for

backcountry ski gear.

They carry a variety of niche and common

brands, including Wild

Rye. Also, check out the

Backwoods, Pete Lane’s, Elephants Perch, and Trailhead in Hailey.“

The Covey

H O L I DAY 2023 • S U N S E T

89

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United States Postal Service—2021 Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation 1. Publication title: Sunset. 2. USPS publication code: 0057-9690. 3. Filing date: October 1, 2023. 4. Frequency: Bi-Monthly; 5. Number of issues annually: 6. 6. Annual subscription price: $24.95. Complete mailing address of known office of publication: Sunset Publishing Corporation, 9720 Wilshire Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90212. 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business office of publisher: Sunset Publishing Corporation, 9720 Wilshire Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90212. 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Michael A. Reinstein, 901 N Glebe Rd. Arlington, VA 22203; Editor: Hugh Garvey, 9720 Wilshire Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90212; Managing Editor, N/A. 10. Owner: S. Media International Corporation; 9720 Wilshire Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90212; Michael A. Reinstein; 9720 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90212; 11. Known bondholders, mortgages, and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent of more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities: None. 12. Tax status: Has not changed during preceding 12 months. 13. Publisher title: Sunset. 14. Issue date for circulation data below: Oct/Nov 2023.

15. Extent and nature of circulation:

a. Total number of copies printed (net press run): b. Paid circulation 1. Mailed outside-county paid subscriptions: 2. Mailed in-county paid subscriptions: 3. Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors and counter sales: 4. Paid distribution through other classes of mail through the USPS: c. Total paid distribution: d. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail or outside mail): 1. Free or nominal outside-county: 2. Free or nominal rate in-county copies: 3. Free or nominal rate copies mailed at other classes through the USPS: 4. Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail: e. Total free or nominal rate distribution: f. Total distribution: g. Copies not distributed: h. Total: i. Percent paid: 16. Electronic copy circulation: a. Paid Electronic Copies: b. Total Paid Print Copies + Paid Electronic Copies: c. Total Print Distribution + Paid Electronic Copies: d. Percent Paid:

Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months

Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date

154,098

146,264

83,226 0 10,959 208 94,393

80,388 0 10,300 239 90,927

30,393 0 0 1,836 32,229 126,622 27,476 154,098 74.55%

29,354 0 0 1,770 31,124 122,051 24,213 146,264 74.50%

47,581 141,974 174,203 81.50%

39,896 130,823 161,947 80.78%

I certify that 50% of all distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid above nominal price: Yes. 17. Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in the Holiday 2023 issue of the publication. 18. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanction and civil actions - Kelly Facer.

NOTICE TO SUBSCRIBERS In the event that we are unable to effect the delivery of your subscription to Sunset for any reason beyond our control, our obligation is limited to the resumption of your subscription when we are able to do so. If we remain unable to resume delivery within 24 calendar months from the date of interruption, we will have no further obligation under your subscription agreement.

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Travel Planner WYOMING

The nature of the west.

FRONTIER History. COWBOY Heritage. Craft CULTURE. The Great Outdoors.

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million acres of pristine wildland in the Bighorn National Forest, encompassing 1,200 miles of trails, 30 campgrounds, 10 picnic areas, 6 mountain lodges, legendary dude ranches, and hundreds of miles of waterways. The Bighorns offer limitless outdoor recreation opportunities.

restaurants, bars, food trucks, lounges, breweries, distilleries, tap rooms, saloons, and holes in the wall are spread across Sheridan County. That’s 101 different ways to apres adventure in the craft capital of Wyoming. We are also home to more than 40 hotels, motels, RV parks, and B&Bs.

seasons in which to get WYO’d. If you’re a skijoring savant, you’ll want to check out the Winter Rodeo in February 2022. July features the 92nd edition of the beloved WYO Rodeo. Spring and fall are the perfect time to chase cool mountain streams or epic backcountry lines.

∞

Sheridan features a thriving, historic downtown district, with western allure, hospitality and good graces to spare; a vibrant arts scene; bombastic craft culture; a robust festival and events calendar; and living history from one corner of the county to the next.

sheridanwyoming.org

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“ WE ARE SO LUCKY TO HAVE SUCH A HUGE VARIETY OF TREES AND SHRUBS THAT STAY LOOKING PERFECT ALL YEAR ROUND, AND SUCH AN ABUNDANCE OF FRUIT TREES THAT GROW IN NEIGHBORHOODS ALL OVER CALIFORNIA.”

dehydrated oranges, lemons, grapefruits, and apples, and

whittle those onto my wreaths or

attach them to sticks to pull into a holiday centerpiece. Cotton on

the stem is also a beautiful natural and gorgeous lastling bloom that feels wintery and brings in unique texture.

Even just a simple bowl of

pomegranates, persimmons, and citrus on a table feels festive. If

you’re entertaining in a pinch, you can create a quick tablescape

with bud vases, glasses, or mason jars of rosemary, and some clusters of citrus or pomegranates.

What are some beautiful foraged and found items to seek out that aren’t easily overharvested?

Here in California we are spoiled with easy-to-forage trees and bushes surrounding us. I live in northeast Los Angeles,

The West is full of possibilities when it comes to foraged, found, and homemade holiday wreaths and tablescapes. We spoke to designer Amelia Posada to get her tips on turning nature into seasonal decor.

Interview by KRI STA S I M M O N S

Floral designer Amelia Posada’s dopamine-inducing arrangements are far from conventional, using unexpected color combinations and bold textures that inject personality and life into a room, especially during the gloomy winter months. Her whimsical perspective is woven into every personalized piece she creates at her L.A.-based business, Birch & Bone, and her fun and funky approach is something you can carry into your own decorations, too. To make your own uniquely dazzling holiday arrangements, here are Posada’s tips.

magnolia leaves, Norfolk pine, and sprigs of rosemary, or

pick up pinecones. Bay laurel branches, pepperberries, citrus, and pomegranates are huge staples for me during the holidays!

What are some alternatives to holiday trees and wreaths that people can try to use? Any sustainable solutions?

You can turn any houseplant into a festive holiday tree by

placing ornaments on them, hanging twinkly lights on them, or even taking dehydrated citrus slices and using ornament hooks to hang them on your branches. You can also always

forage local evergreens and arrange them on a mantle with some ornaments or lights for a festive alternative to a tree.

What are the most important tools you need to get started on your own DIY designs?

A strong set of floral clippers, wire cutters, and some 18-to-

22-gauge floral or craft wire. You can get these items online

What are the essential elements of a

to create an illusion of layers and in-

or your local craft store.

break down texture, color, and sym-

to the top right of an arrangement, I

Why is it that the West is one of the more exciting places to

comes down the opposite side to cre-

We are so lucky to have such a huge variety of trees and

symmetry.

abundance of fruit trees that grow in neighborhoods all

that negative space is an opportunity

When it comes to holiday decor, the

if you can snip some of this or that, maybe bring them

tant to have layers, different heights,

tional. How can you riff on that?

too! I have a huge orange tree and I am lucky to be able to

deep green colors rather than just

neighbors house and trade for clippings of their Norfolk

great holiday centerpiece? Can you metry for us?

I am not one who leans towards per-

fect symmetry, but I do love balance!

When creating a centerpiece or building a tablescape, I like to remember

for movement, and I think it’s impor-

and lots of texture. Even if I am creating a monotone arrangement, I will

use five different shades of one color

terest. If I place a tall bloom jetting off like to have something on the left that

forage and create out-of-the-box holiday decor?

ate balance rather than perfect

shrubs that stay looking perfect all year round, and such an over California. It’s easy to befriend your neighbors and ask

color palette is usually pretty tradi-

something from your yard if you have something to offer

I like to use burnt orange, mustard, and

dehydrate my own orange slices, bring them over to the

bright red, white, and green. I use

pine, bay laurel, or eucalyptus!

SUNSET (ISSN 0039-5404) publishes 6 issues per year in regional and special editions by S. Media International Corporation, P.O. Box 15688 Beverly Hills, CA 90209. Periodicals postage paid at Oakland, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.) Nonpostal and military facilities: Send address corrections to Sunset Magazine, PO Box 680 Lincolnshire IL 60069.

Vol. 246, No. 6. Issue: Dec 2023/Jan 2024. Printed in U.S.A. Copyright © 2023 S. Media International Corporation. All rights reserved. Member Alliance for Audited Media. Sunset, The Magazine of Western Living, The Pacific Monthly, Sunset’s Kitchen Cabinet, The Changing Western Home, and Chefs of the West are registered trademarks of S. Media International Corporation. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited ­submissions. Manuscripts, photographs, and other material submitted to P.O. Box 15688 Beverly Hills, CA 90209 can be acknowledged or returned only if accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

For 24/7 service, please email support@sunset.com. You can also call 1-800-777-0117 or write to Sunset Magazine, PO Box 680 Lincolnshire IL 60069. U.S. subscriptions: $24.95 for one year.

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LORENZO DIEGO CARRERA

Wreath What You Sow

and I can walk out of my door and snip eucalyptus leaves,

FA L L / W I N T E R 2 0 2 3 – I C E L A N D - 5 ° C E L S I U S

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100 years of

EXPLORING OUR WORLD

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