Sunset Summer Living 2024 Issue

Best of the West

Your summer getaway planner; The ABCs of Agave.

A nomadic Spokane-based architect is a serial renovator of stylish midcentury gems. His latest project is an upgraded homage to a local legend. 20 Remote Possibility

A 19th-century cabin in rural Mendocino County is the heart of this rustic compound, and the ultimate low-key escape. 32 Enlightened Viewpoint

A conservation-minded couple built a budgetconscious home high in the Berkeley Hills, and the stunning vistas are a daily reminder of everything they’re fighting for. 42 Checklist

What to do in your garden now, plus: the best leaf blowers; bold, stylish outdoor accessories; luxe vineyard landscaping.

The Wreath Wrangler

A second-generation flower farmer and florist harnesses the beauty of blooms to create everlasting works of art while leaning into a legacy flourishing with sustainability.

Food

& Drink

From (Tiny) Plot to Plate

In Rosie Daykin’s latest cookbook she proves that bountiful harvests can come from any sized garden.

66 Seaside Seafood Bliss

At Casamarte in La Paz, Baja, seafood takes center stage in tasty tostadas and more. Plus, their fruitforward cocktails are the quintessence of summer sipping.

Travel & Escapes

73 Dialed in at Dahlia

Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel marries great cocktails and incredible interior design.

the #Vanlife in Baja

On the road in Baja California Sur.

Locals on Carmel, Ouray, Colorado, and Malibu. Voices of the West

How to take your nuptials into nature according to an extreme wedding planner.

ON THE COVER Beachy bliss in Baja.

Photograph by THOMAS J. STORY

Hannah Rose Rivers Muller in the flower fields at Full Belly Farm.

That Summer Feeling

CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER

Michael A. Reinstein

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Hugh Garvey

DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Sarah Yang

DESIGN DIRECTOR

Brian Walker

PHOTO EDITOR

Christine Bobbish STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Thomas J. Story

A quiet moment in Mendocino is the essence of a lazy Western summer.

What are your summer plans? Not long ago, I used to panic slightly whenever people asked me that question. It would trigger racing thoughts of the pre-trip work required to clear a long stretch out of the office. Then there’d be the mad dash to curate a 10-day vacation packed with culture, nature, and culinary experiences in some distant destination. But recently, I’ve been saying something like: “We’re staying close to home.” And man does that feel good. Over the years, far-flung and frenetic was often the plan, with elaborate itineraries that required Google Maps pinned to the max with hour-to-hour breakdowns of arrondissements, barrios, autostrada, and otherwise to explore. But in recent years, I’ve realized the nearby West offers exactly what I seek out when traveling afar. My travel to-do list is pretty much what I do at home in the summer: find the best local beaches to soak up the sun and play in the ocean, get up early to hit the trails and streets to feel the city (or countryside) waking up and get my exercise in, book a restaurant that allows me to enjoy local culinary artistry and feel the buzzy thrum of locals at ease, find a farmer’s market to experience the local bounty. And, to be entirely honest, never actually getting around to that museum exhibition. I’ve done all of these things in Australia, Italy, France, China, Belize, Vietnam, and beyond. And while I’m all for the mind-expanding pleasures of immersing oneself in another culture against the backdrop of foreign architecture and topography, I’ve been preposterously satisfied and stimulated in the deserts and cities of Arizona, the hamlets of Washington State, the hippie haunts of Northern California, and, yes, the hills and boulevards of my hometown of Los Angeles and its nearby coastal, desert, and countryside retreats reachable on a road trip. If a plane is involved, it rarely leaves the Pacific Time Zone and only tips as far as Mexico to the south and Hawaii to the west. In this issue, we offer you a summer inspiration book of sorts filled with those things we do so well in the West: spend a quiet day on a ranch, stroll through the flower fields surrounded by vivid blossoms, jounce down a rutted road in Baja to a secret beach in a vintage VW Westfalia, eat a salad with greens grown right outside your door, attend a summer wedding in the mountains, and enjoy a craft cocktail in your own city’s newest version of a grand hotel. Now that’s my kind of summer—no jet lag required.

—Hugh Garvey, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

TRAVEL EDITOR

Krista Simmons

SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR

Kristin Guy

CONTRIBUTING HOME & DESIGN EDITOR

Christine Lennon

VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL INITIATIVES

Matt Gross

DIGITAL PRODUCER/NEWSLETTER EDITOR

Nicole Clausing

LIFESTYLE CONTRIBUTOR

Camille Styles

SENIOR DIRECTOR, PRODUCTION

Jamie Elliott

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Jenna Anderson

Kara Peeler

Sales & Marketing SVP, MEDIA SOLUTIONS

Mort Greenberg VP, PARTNERSHIPS

Kathleen Craven

HEAD OF TRAVEL

Pamela Coffey

HEAD OF OUTDOOR

Kristi Rummel SVP, REVENUE OPERATIONS

Kelly Facer

DIRECTOR OF AD OPERATIONS

Mindy Morgan

HEAD OF CUSTOM EVENTS

Tracy Seng

ACCOUNT MANAGER

Megan Giordano

Sunset Media International Corporation

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Tom Griffiths Graydon Sheinberg

tel.

The newly reopened Murrieta Hot Springs.

Story by KRISTA SIMMONS

SOAK UP A SUMMER SPA DAY

Nestled between Los Angeles and San Diego, Murrieta Hot Springs has long been a distinguished spot for celebs to retreat to since it first opened in 1902. After three decades of private seclusion and a recent restoration, it just reopened. And it is glorious. Soak away your woes, or stop in mid-road trip by using one of the resort’s day passes.

MAKE A MOVE ON MAUI

After the devastating wildfires that ravaged the island of Maui, the island is welcoming guests again. If you’re planning a trip this season, it’s even more important to do so with purpose and intention. Through booking the Return to Maui Package at the Grand Wailea, you’ll donate $100 directly to survivors of the tragedy through the Hawai’i Community Foundation Maui Strong Fund. The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa has established the Aloha for Sheraton Maui Relief Fund.

Borealis Basecamp is a great basecamp to start. Situated on 100 acres of pristine boreal forest, you can sleep in a modern geodesic igloo and explore the rugged allure of the far north.

JAUNT TO THE NEXT “JOSHUA TREE”

NEXT LEVEL NORTHERN LIGHTS VIEWING IN ALASKA

This year, solar activity is at its highest point in its 11-year cycle, providing the ideal conditions for spectacular aurora borealis viewing. Fairbanks is known for being the best spot to witness the phenomenon, which is in peak season from August to April. The ultra-modern

Jacumba Hot Springs Hotel has all the hallmarks of a hotspot in the making. Honky-tonk nights at the in-house dive bar? Check. Rejuvenating mineral-rich pools? Check. Mezcal-fueled high dessert vibes and fantastic food? Check and check. Though it hasn’t quite hit the critical mass like Joshua Tree, this hotel is the tentpole for a quirky destination that’s definitely on the rise when it comes to weekend retreats.

Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa

Grand Wailea

Todos Santos Boutique Hotel

Jacumba Hot Springs Hotel

SURF AND SUN IN SOCAL

There’s no shortage of surfthemed hotels that dot the Southern California coastline, but The Pierside Hotel in Santa Monica sets itself apart: it’s got a breezy, easy come, easy go vibe, close proximity to some of the city’s best beaches, and a restaurant called The Surfing Fox that features Cali fare. Further south, El Caminante Bar & Bungalows opened in San Juan Capistrano, offering 30 gorgeous boutique Spanishstyle bungalows that boast panoramic ocean views that immediately evoke sunsoaked serenity. Plus it’s right near famed beaches like Doheny, Salt Creek, and Laguna.

VISIT THE WORLD’S FIRST CARBON POSITIVE HOTEL

From its Aspen tree-inspired architecture to the elevator recordings of Colorado bird songs that vary based on time of day and seasonality, Populus, the country’s first carbon positive

hotel, is a full-sensory immersion. The Denver property has already planted over 70,000 trees in Gunnison County, and it houses many unique furnishings that embrace biophilic design: woodshingled walls are repurposed from beetle kill trees—an ongoing issue in the forests of Colorado—and sculptural works are made from reishi mushrooms.

TURN IT UP IN TODOS SANTOS

This hippie little surf town has really come into its own, with the crown jewel being Todos Santos Boutique Hotel, a masterfully renovated historic estate

originally constructed in 1890. The 10key property has been preserved, still showcasing grand brick hallways with arches and fresco murals that narrate diverse tales of Todos Santos’s history.

PUT ON THE RITZ IN PORTLAND

While Portland is known for its independent spirit, the Pacific Northwest city has been getting gussied up as of late between the spring opening of the Soho House and the newly minted Ritz-Carlton. Both make for a swanky home base to explore some of the city’s renowned restaurants like Kann and Phuket Cafe.

Populus

The Pierside Hotel

Populus

The ABCs of Agave

Top tips for selecting, serving, and sipping the summery spirit like a pro.

Story by KRISTA SIMMONS

If it feels like tequila is on the tip of everyone’s tongue (and in everyone’s glass), you’re not wrong. There’s been a boom in popularity for the agave-based spirit, with countless celebrity brands taking over the top shelf. But there’s so much more to this fermented beverage, which the Aztecs believed connected them to the gods. Victor Itza Pacheco, a certified sommelier and leader of the mezcal and tequila tastings at the Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos Costa Palmas, shares his top five tips for navigating Mexico’s most nuanced spirits this summer.

KNOW YOUR VARIETY

“To be considered tequila, the agave must come from the appellation of origin. There are 299 different types of agave, but only the Blue Weber variety is used for tequila,” says Pacheco. “If these conditions are not met, we are talking about mezcal, which also comes from agave juice, or other agave-related beverages, such as pulque.”

GO BEYOND JALISCO

While many people recognize the spirit as being from the town of Tequila, the UNESCO World Heritage site located in Jalisco, Pacheco emphasizes that tequila is allowed to be produced in five states of the Mexican republic: Jalisco, Michoacán, Tamaulipas, Nayarit, and Guanajuato. (Corralejo is one of the famous producers in the latter state.)

TASTE THE RAINBOW

Simply put, the basic breakdown of various styles, according to Pacheco, is this: “Tequila blanco is colorless, bottled shortly after distillation, and its alcohol content has been adjusted with water. Young or gold tequila is the result of blending tequila blanco with aged tequila. It is one of the tequilas

that can go through a process of abocado to soften its flavor by adding colorants, oak or oak extract, glycerin, or sugar-based syrup. Reposado tequila undergoes a maturation process of at least two months in oak or oak barrels, giving it a smooth flavor and aroma, as well as a pale golden color. Like tequila reposado and tequila joven, tequila añejo can go through an abocado process, but the standard requires that it be subjected to a maturation process of at least one year in oak or oak barrels. Due to the maturation process, añejo obtains an amber color and a mild wood flavor. Tequila extra añejo has a maturation process of at least three years, during which it must be in direct contact with the wood of the oak and oak barrels.”

CLEAR AS CRYSTAL

An insider tip is to try cristalinos, which are slowly entering the American market, but have been popular in Mexico for the past decade or so.

“You must try cristalino tequilas, which have undergone a prolonged maturation process and before being bottled are subjected to a filtering process, mainly with activated charcoal,” says Pacheco. This removes the color and elevates the floral and fruity notes of the spirit.

MIX ACCORDINGLY

“I suggest cocktails or margaritas be made with tequila blanco. Tequila reposado should be enjoyed on the rocks with a slice of orange. Tequila añejo is perfect neat. Sip tequila extra añejo as a digestive or drink it with a cigar at the end of dinner.”

BREAK THE MOLD

Agave is usually associated with tequila; however, other beverages can be made with it. Look into sampling mezcal, pulque, sotol, raicilla, and bacanora if they offer it at your local bar. And instead of opting for your traditional margarita, try sipping a paloma, made with tequila, lime juice, and grapefruit soda. “Another great option is the cantarito, a refreshing Mexican drink from the town of Tequila, Jalisco, that is the perfect combination of tequila, fresh citrus juices, and citrus soft drinks,” says Pacheco. It’s served in a traditional clay vessel with a Tajin rim, and it’s absolutely worth trying.

Unbox the West

Every three months, you’ll get a box full of home, design, food, and garden products from the West and beyond curated by Sunset editors. Our next box will be themed around summer fun. Expect products to help you make the most of the season while you’re grilling, hitting the beach, and keeping cool by the pool. It’s the easiest way to live the Sunset lifestyle! The Sunset Subscription Box delivers the Best of the West straight to your door!

HOME & GARDEN

Modern Love

Serial remodeler and architect Josh Hissong is beautifying his Spokane neighborhood, one mid-century ranch house at a time.

Story by CHRISTINE LENNON

Photographs by PATRICK MARTINEZ

It takes a certain kind of person to buy a vintage house sight-unseen, to dive headfirst into the rough waters of reviving a property’s faded glory without even opening the front door.

Josh Hissong, the Spokane-based principal of HDG, is that guy.

“I’m a bit nomadic. I’ve renovated and sold 10 or 11 houses, which is why I’m single,” says Hissong with a laugh. “No, that’s not true! That’s not the reason. I’m sure I have other faults. I just love taking things that were once beautiful but forgotten and making them beautiful again.”

Hissong founded his design firm back in 2010, after he was laid off from a previous job, and took a scrappy approach to establishing a name for himself. He and his partner, Armando Hurtado, renovated drive-through coffee stands, small commercial properties, modest residential projects, and really “anything that would come our way.” Steadily, they built a design portfolio that spread from Spokane to a wider swath of the Pacific Northwest.

Hissong unearthed a classic paint color for the exterior, Deep Space by Benjamin Moore, which was a favorite of modernist Joseph Eichler. Now, the charcoal-black shade is spotted all over town.

“Now we do $30 million houses and work in 12 states,” he says.

HDG is hired to build sprawling vacation homes from the ground up in exclusive enclaves like Gozzer Ranch in Idaho, but Hissong’s sweet spot, or at least his pride and joy, is the smaller-scale remodels of modern homes that showcase clean lines and clever use of smart materials. In 2019, one of those homes Hissong bought on blind faith and then restored ended up on the cover of a popular modern design

Single dad Hissong created a home that’s equal parts bachelor pad and kid-friendly, and maintains the clean lines of the home’s original design.

magazine. It was clear from the beginning that Hissong had tapped into something interesting.

“Lately, there’s a huge upswing in people looking for these homes. When I was in that house, I had 15 people in a single year knock on the door and say “Name your price,’” he says. “Eventually, when I wanted to sell, I contacted four of those people on the list. And the fourth one took it.”

Part of what makes his work in western Washington

Hissong works in the updated kitchen, as one of his work associates, interior designer Cody Borgman, lounges on the gray section. The navigation artwork on the wall is by 08 Left, and features airport codes that are significant to Hissong’s life.

state so satisfying is that there is a surprisingly robust inventory of modern houses, many of which are in need of TLC. Spokanites have the modern architect Moritz Kundig to thank for creating that legacy. The Swiss-born and trained architect emigrated to Washington in the 1950s, and brought his passion for European modernism with him. Over several decades, he designed and remodeled many of the homes that give the South Hill neighborhood its distinct mid-century charm, including Hissong’s current residence, featured here. Kundig’s son, Tom, is coprincipal of Olson Kundig, the celebrated Seattle design firm that’s regularly listed among the world’s top firms.

“I didn’t realize that Moritz had designed the house I bought in 2019. And I didn’t know that he did the renovations in the 1970s for this one, which Sunset featured, until after I bought them,” says Hissong, who also notes that the house was surrounded by a fence and not visible from the street when he made an offer. “It was completely

serendipitous. The previous owners left a manila envelope in my office with the two vintage magazines with stories about Moritz and the house.”

Both Moritz and Tom Kundig are on Hissong’s shortlist of design heroes, and after he purchased the houses, the three architecture lovers forged a lasting friendship. Moritz lived in a retirement facility down the street from Hissong who would visit him several times a month until he passed away earlier this year at the age of 98.

Tile by Cross-

Swatches 3 x 12 matte tile in Sea Ice continues the home’s cool aqua and gray palette.

Because Hissong wanted to preserve the character of the house, his work was limited to refinishing surfaces, updating plumbing and electrical, replacing leaky windows with more efficient UV-blocking versions, installing efficient heating and cooling systems, and reviving the kitchen. The front door, which was featured in Sunset, had grayed significantly. But instead of

ville

A pitched interior roofline and a wall of insulated glass windows with views of the front yard make the modest square footage feel more spacious.

Hissong on the keyboard in the guest room.

replacing it, Hissong removed it from the hinges, sanded it, sealed it, and put it back. The yard was completely replanted with grass and a generous number of potted plants. All of the homes in the area were built on bedrock, and many have lava rock accents in their landscaping.

When Moritz Kundig renovated the house in the 1970s, he built this outdoor conversation area with a built-in wood firepit and wide benches. Hissong preserved his design, re-building it to his exact specifications, and added privacy screens.

“The kitchen had been renovated in the 1970s, and the cabinets were untreated so it looked like reclaimed wood,” he says. “I tore up all the carpet, redid flooring throughout, painted inside and out.”

Aqua accents inside add to its crisp mid-century appeal. For the exterior, Hissong relied on a personal favorite, Deep Space from Benjamin Moore.

“It was one of the original paint colors that Joseph Eichler used,” says Hissong, referring to the real estate developer who created many of America’s most important modern residential neighborhoods. “I found it in one of the old Eichler catalogs, then used it on another house years ago. When I went to order the paint at the Benjamin Moore store they’d never heard of it. Now, all summer long they sell that color here. The South Hill of Spokane is covered in this color.”

Hissong’s favorite corner of the house is a small exterior sitting area Kundig designed around a built-in firepit. He took great care to restore it to its original, intended state.

“I tore out all of the rotted wood and built it back exactly how Moritz designed in the 1970s, even the light fixture is the same. I put up the screen as a visual barrier to create one little quaint area in an enormous backyard,” he says.

The wide surrounding lawn, 6-foot overhangs along the perimeter of the house, and the low, single-story footprint create the illusion of much bigger proportions.

“This house is about 1,700 square feet, but it feels enormous and expansive in a great way,” he says. “The primary bedroom is 18-feet wide, and there’s glass all the way across the whole back side.”

The elder Kundig was pleased with the way his vision for a modest, intentional, thoughtfully designed community has remained largely intact. “He was giddy that the home was being honored in Sunset again,” says Hissong.

Hissong wishes that all of his clients appreciated Kundig’s minimalism and restraint. “We push really hard on our clients to not overbuild,” he says. “Do you need 12 bedrooms? Why? Some listened to us and shrunk the size of the house. Others, well, they just keep expanding. There’s so much excess it can be disheartening. You’ve got to ask, ‘What do you really need?’”

Los Amigos landscaping, a frequent Hissong collaborator, replanted the front and back yard, designed with a handful of flexible seating areas.

TAKING THE LONG VIEW

Views and indoor-outdoor living are central to our next Idea House. Western Window Systems were the obvious choice for their beauty, flexibility, and timeless appeal.

erched on a mountain high above Palm Springs, a spectacular home is being built.

It’s the next Sunset Idea House, the last design of iconic mid-century modernist architect Donald Wexler and Lance O'Donnell, and it embodies so much of what we at Sunset love about Western living. The house is designed for indoor-outdoor living, with multiple al fresco gathering spaces that flow seamlessly from the interior living space. And then there are those epic views. With floor-to-ceiling glass windows, there are stunning views of the surrounding desert and the city below everywhere. And with windows being so central to the home’s design, choosing the right brand was one of the most important decisions the homeowner could make. That's why they selected Western Window Systems for its innovative design, quality craftsmanship, tailored solutions, and timeless appeal that will ensure perfect execution of this revived modern classic. Here’s how Western Window Systems will help bring the Palm Springs Idea House to life, with a view of the desert—and a view to how Western Window Systems became the go-to choice for homeowners wanting to elevate their very own iconic Western home.

KEEP IT CLASSIC

Western Window Systems’ Classic Line combines sleek aesthetics and extreme flexibility and for 20 years has set the standard for homeowners looking for a minimalist profile and multiple configurations. The aluminum construction is exceptionally strong, and the stainless steel rolling hardware is smooth. And no matter what your project, there’s a customizable answer: The Classic Line includes sliding, bi-fold, pivot, screen and no-screen options for moving walls and doors. Window choices include single hung, direct set, and casement, just to name a few. Translation: The options are endless. For the Idea House, the Series 300 Minimalist Multi-Slide Door was the choice for its low profile, which perfectly matches the svelte lines of the home.

EMBRACE ENERGY EFFICIENCY

With sustainability and affordability front of mind for so many homeowners, Western Window Systems’ argon-filled dual-panel glass is super energy-efficient and perfect for the temperature swings of the desert or any environment. Plus, it's rated Low-E, meaning it allows

natural light to pass through, while deflecting UV and infrared light—a plus for homeowners who want the flattering illumination of the sun but want to protect their surfaces and furniture from its more damaging elements.

COOL AND CUSTOMIZABLE

Western Window Systems can unlock your home's potential to be an al fresco oasis on demand, thanks to its doors that can effectively work as moving walls. On milder days, they can slide open, letting breezes and people flow in and out for entertaining. Plus they’re infinitely customizable. Are you dreaming big?

Western Window Systems can go truly big, as in up to 70 square feet of glass, 12 feet in height, and with spans as wide as your imagination with certain models. The drama is yours to design. And with finish options including bronze anodized and satin anodized, a suite of colors popular in the building industry, and available color matching, the finished product can sync with any project.

TECHNICALLY BEAUTIFUL

Yes, it can be a bit technical, but that’s what makes the product so beautiful: The quality, aesthetics, and customization are there to help you create a home based on your needs. Whether you want to embrace the views, go with the flow, or create a flexible space to adapt to your day and your life, Western Window Systems can help you achieve the ultimate in Western living.

The sleek and stylish Series 300 Minimalist Multi-Slide door.

Western Window Systems fit the modern Western lifestyle.

The Palm Springs Idea House designed by Donald Wexler.

“The key to the design was openness. We wanted to bring the outdoors in, especially on the main level, and allow for outdoor areas on different levels of the home.”

Adam Steiner, Architect, Cornerstone Architects

Remote Possibility

A 19TH-CENTURY CABIN IS THE HEART OF A RUSTIC COMPOUND IN RURAL MENDOCINO COUNTY, AND THE ULTIMATE LOW-KEY ESCAPE.

Story by CHRISTINE LENNON

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

Holbrook furnished the restored 19th-century cabin with a mix of vintage pieces and furniture from Portland-based Rejuvenation.

Holbrook arranges some grasses found on the property in a ceramic pitcher. New paneling milled from redwood harvested on the property takes its cues from the home’s original walls. Here it’s installed horizontally in the dining room and vertically in the living room beyond.

“The owner of the property really wants to preserve and regenerate the land, to be a steward of sorts,”

says Topanga-based interior designer Eva Holbrook. She helped transform this one-bedroom redwood-paneled hideaway near Ukiah, CA, two hours north of San Francisco and a world away from the glamor of wine country, into the ultimate rural retreat. On 2,000 acres of land, there’s a guest cottage, a barn with a corral, a former distillery, a caretaker’s cottage, and a hut that was once used to shear sheep that’s now a small guest house. Just looking at the photos of the pristine landscape makes you want to take a deep breath of fresh air. It’s the ultimate ranch life fantasy, some would argue that its rural surroundings are more appealing—and less attainable—than ever.

Here are a couple of statistics about the Golden State that may help explain the land lust. The 2020 Census revealed that 94.2% of California residents live in urban areas, beating out Nevada by a tenth of a percentage. And there’s an average of 4.79 residents per square mile, denser than New York, and the highest urbanization share of all 50 states. In short that means most of the residents are huddled together in packed city centers, leaving all of that wide-open space, well, wide-open. Anyone who has flown from Burbank to Oakland can attest to

the fact that there’s plenty of room to spread out, in theory. However much of it is either protected land, inhospitable terrain, or out of reach of basic amenities like water and power. Finding your personal Eden away from the throng requires a sizable budget, a lot of effort, a willingness to go far afield, and the vision to spot a diamond in the rough, like this one.

When the owners found this large swath of property in Northern California, it needed, in real estate parlance, TLC.

“To get to the house, you take a long, dirt logging road from town for about five miles out to the property, so it feels pretty remote once you are here,” Holbrook says.

The first structure on the ranch was originally built in the late 1800s as part of a homestead and sheep ranch. It was renovated some time around the 1940s, but it hadn’t been

“We were inspired by the Ralph Lauren ranch in Colorado as well as the Georgia O’Keeffe home and studio in New Mexico.”

Rush-seat dining chairs surround a long farm table. An extra-large vintage brass pendant light has a rustic appeal and casts a warm glow at night. Holbrook maintained a light-ranch theme throughout the house, with lightly finished wood and natural materials. The original wood stove was cleaned, polished, and repurposed as a bar.

touched in decades. Its time-capsule simplicity was part of its charm, and Holbrook’s goal was to modernize the home, adding two bedrooms and bathrooms, new windows and doors, all while keeping as much of its rustic appeal as possible.

“We were inspired by the Ralph Lauren ranch in Colorado as well as the Georgia O’Keeffe home and studio in New Mexico,” says Holbrook. “We wanted that lived-in super cozy feel but with a few more modern elements blended in. So we knew right away we wanted to keep the original stone fireplace and redwood paneling.”

The original panels were carefully removed to upgrade the electrical system and plumbing and then replaced. Redwood found on the property was milled to mimic the board and batten

LITE RANCH DRESSING

Honoring the location and history of the property while resisting the urge to decorate it like a swinging-door saloon requires some restraint—and a few modern touches sprinkled in.

LOG ADIRONDACK CHAIRS

A few groupings of these chairs add just enough primitive charm to the outdoor spaces. logfurnitureplace.com

ANTLER ACCENTS

While resin replicas are available, there are plenty of shed antlers to be found from Etsy dealers in the West (if you can’t find them discarded naturally in the grass). etsy.com

A HANDSOME LEATHER SOFA

Holbrook sourced much of the furniture from vintage dealers and Portland-based brand Rejuvenation. rejuvenation.com

A THICK WOOL BLANKET

As part of Pendleton’s Preservation Series, each made-in-America blanket sold generates a donation to Native American arts, culture, and health care initiatives. pendleton-usa.com

RECLAIMED REDWOOD PIECES

If you aren’t lucky enough to have a source for redwood on site, there are plenty of artisans working with found and reclaimed materials doing beautiful work. Carved Coast in Santa Barbara hand-makes tables in a workshop on an avocado ranch using salvaged timber and steel. carvedcoast.com

There are a couple of more modern structures on the expansive property, but this settler’s cabin is the focal point. Below, Holbrook kept the original terracotta tile backsplash and floors and upgraded the cabinetry and plumbing.

paneling to the expanded and new rooms on the first floor. There was some debate over whether to keep the terracotta tile floor and backsplash in the kitchen, but they ultimately decided to keep it and install oak floors throughout the rest of the home. Holbrook used Zia tile in all three bathrooms,

choosing a grass green glaze for the primary bathroom that brings the colors of the outdoors in.

“We also decided to keep the old wood stove and turn it into a bar area in the dining room. It was my client’s idea, and it was genius,” she says. “We leaned into the rustic vibe in the kitchen with the pine cabinets and wood countertop. I really wanted it to still look somewhat ‘original’ and classic.”

Holbrook honors the Western ranch design style with a few nods here and there, a subtle antler on the outdoor dining table, the occasional thick wool blanket, roughhewn Adirondack chairs outside. But the scale never tips too far into the wild west theme.

“I wanted that ‘ranch’ feel but more subtle and neutral,” she says. For others who are interested in achieving that subtle homestead look, Holbrook suggests considering the history of the location, and the people who lived on the land before. “It’s important to connect with the land and history that surrounds us. The native Pomo tribe was living in that area long before American settlers arrived, so naturally the style of that time speaks to tribal ways. Many of

Rectangular tile from Zia in Prairie Green in the primary bathroom adds a pop of color to the otherwise neutral decor. Below, a thick sheepskin rug and soft textiles create warmth in a simple bedroom.

Rough-hewn Adirondack chairs arranged around a metal firepit is an ideal spot to admire the view during the day and the infinite stars at night.

the settlers adapted some of those key elements like animal skins and woven wool rugs in specific colors not just for aesthetics but for warmth and survival. Cut to modern day, we have a central heating system in the house and a gas range. But I think of these classic elements as an ode to the past and an honoring of those that have come before us.”

A new phase of the project is underway. Holbrook is helping the owner and his new wife construct a detached game room and indoor/outdoor spa area with a sauna, a hot tub, and a shower. The long-term strategy is to create a completely self-contained destination that’s got everything

one would need without having to set foot off of the property… for a couple of reasons.

“There is only one neighbor and they grow weed, which is pretty common for the area, and there’s still a lot of logging up here, sadly,” Holbrook says. “It’s a very strange little town.”

There’s a strong chance the locals disagree, and very possibly think that San Francisco and Los Angeles to the south are the stranger towns by far. Though the town is very much not the point, what with all of that room to stretch out and settle in.

WHERE THERE’S REDWOOD THERE’S A WAY

Sustainable, stylish, and with infinite applications, redwood is a truly Western product—and a natural choice for home and garden projects of any size or style.

hen it comes to selecting lumber that lasts, redwood is one of nature’s finest and strongest building materials available. Whether you’re looking to update your raised garden beds or want to tackle a wraparound deck with a view, redwood harvested and milled by Humboldt Sawmill is an iconic and truly Western product, grown right here in California. Not only does it produce a sustainable choice, with skilled staff dedicated to sustainable forestry and responsible land management, Humboldt Sawmill’s redwood also delivers unmatched style while combining natural beauty, durability, and strength. Ranging from deep red to creamy yellow hues, no other natural wood can match the character or unique graining. Humboldt Sawmill is the ultimate home improvement package, combining looks, longevity, and a lasting commitment to creating mindful tree-to-lumber building materials. Read on to learn why redwood is our preferred pick when bringing any sized project to life.

SUSTAINABLY MANAGED

Sourcing from nearly 450,000 acres of company-owned timberlands in Northern California, the team at Humboldt Sawmill harvests redwood with an eye for long-term sustainability. With a dedication to responsible land management, its commitment runs deep with carefully planned harvests, resulting in forests that support wildlife habitat, protect sensitive species, and protect water quality. Responsible management ensures more timber is grown each year than is harvested. This means future generations will benefit from redwood’s unique qualities.

MINDFULLY MILLED

Offering redwood lumber and timbers available in a wide selection of grades, Humboldt Sawmill can be the foundation of an unlimited number of home and garden projects, turning your creativity into quality construction. Redwood grades are based on appearance and durability, so it is important to understand how these characteristics pertain to the project you have in mind. When wood will be near soil, such as posts, retaining walls or planter

boxes, opt for the more durable heartwood grades, such as Heart Clear, Heart B, or Construction Heart. For construction projects above ground, or in areas where there is little danger of damage from insects or decay, choose a sapwood grade: Clear, B Grade, or Construction Common. With this many grades to choose from, the sky's the limit.

AUTHENTICALLY OUTDOORS

Lightweight and a pleasure to work with, redwood is stronger than alternative materials. This means, for example, redwood deck boards can span up to 24-inches, saving time and money during deck construction. Naturally durable, it’s the perfect choice for gardening and landscaping projects where edible plants will be grown. Redwood decking also features Class B flame spread, meaning it’s approved for use in California’s Wildland Urban Interface fire hazard severity zones without restriction. By choosing the appropriate redwood product for your outdoor project, structure and style come together, along with the enduring strength of redwood’s safety and security.

STYLISHLY WESTERN

With so much versatility and vigor, there’s no question why redwood is the choice for our Malibu Idea house, where Camille Styles is integrating it with a modern style throughout the Malibu home’s exterior. Showcased as a sustainable spotlight, from sweeping patio pergolas to sleek vertical cladding, Humboldt Sawmill redwood was selected by Camille to be enjoyed by her family while expressing her aesthetic that embodies the casual indoor-outdoor barefoot luxury of her new coastal home.

A beautiful, redwoodclad, 4,000-square-foot workshop, garage, music studio, and office space.

An expansive redwood deck on a hillside home in Sausalito, California.

Camille Styles’ Malibu Idea House is finished with redwood on the exterior for a distinct natural aesthetic that blends seamlessly with the landscaping.

REDWOOD

A sustainable alternative to tropical hardwoods, redwood is grown to the highest environmental standards in the world and imparts natural beauty and warmth to residential structures. Available certified to the standards of the Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC® C013133). Visit GetRedwood.com to learn more.

Story by CHRISTINE LENNON

by THOMAS J. STORY

Photographs

The design of the main floor living space was meant to evoke the feeling of an outdoor porch, with floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides. The custom table was a gift from Dillen’s parents.

ENLIGHTENED VIEWPOINT

A CONSERVATION-MINDED COUPLE BUILT A BUDGETCONSCIOUS HOME HIGH IN THE BERKELEY HILLS, AND THE STUNNING VISTAS ARE A DAILY REMINDER OF EVERYTHING THEY’RE FIGHTING FOR.

Jasmit Singh Rangr, a Berkeley-based architect, founder of Rangr Studio, and a lecturer in architecture at the UC Berkeley College of Environmental Design, is technically responsible for building his family’s stylish, minimal, cost-conscious home near the Grizzly Peak summit in the Berkeley Hills. But the behind-the-scenes mastermind who made it possible is his wife, Abigail Dillen, president of Earthjustice, a nonprofit, public interest environmental law firm. Anyone familiar with the area’s cutthroat real estate market won’t be surprised to hear that the search for a vacant, buildable lot in one of the most coveted neighborhoods in the West required Dillen to use all of the skills that make her a great lawyer: creativity, a knack for analysis and research, perseverance, and the art of persuasion.

The challenge began in 2014 when the couple and their young son, Sher, moved from Manhattan to the Bay Area after Dillen was

Opposite: Dillen and Rangr enjoy the expansive view from their minimalist patio; The UC Berkeley campus and two iconic bridges are visible from the home’s high perch.

This page: A rear exterior view of the home’s three levels and simple construction.

offered a promotion at Earthjustice. Dillen began working at Earthjustice back in 2000, starting in its Bozeman, Montana office, and had risen steadily through the ranks. When the opportunity to relocate to the headquarters in her home state arose, she jumped at the chance.

“I grew up in Sacramento and went to law school here in Berkeley, so I knew the city, and I knew where I wanted to live. When I was a kid, San Francisco was the big city. It was a dream,” she says.

Dillen had a sense that the housing market would be tough upon her return, but it still came as a shock when she and Rangr were outbid by other buyers with deeper pockets again and again. That’s when they realized they

needed to take a bolder approach, and build from the ground up.

“The question was, how do we build a cheap house and make it worth something?” Dillen says. The answer? Look for the view.

“First, we Google-mapped all of the vacant lots in the Berkeley Hills and researched the owners,” says Dillen. None of them were for sale, per se, but a little obstacle like that was hardly a deterrent. “We found two adjacent lots with an incredible view owned by a couple that was in the middle of a divorce. I wrote to the wife and asked to meet her when I was out in the Bay Area from New York for an Earthjustice meeting. When she drove up in a Prius, I thought, “Huh, maybe we have a shot!”

Dillen has spent 24 years challenging fossil fuel giants to fight for renewable energy, blocking permits for coal plants, and protecting public lands. When she met with the lot owner and was making the case for why she should sell that steep sliver of land to her for its appraised value, the Earthjustice ethos came in handy.

“We were discussing our slogan, which is ‘The earth needs a good lawyer,’” Dillen says. “And I could tell that it really spoke to her. So I told her that the earth needs a good lawyer, and the earth’s lawyer needs a good spot to raise her son. And the earth’s lawyer’s husband knows how to build it.”

Once the land was theirs, Rangr designed a 2850-square-foot structure

Dillen and Rangr enjoy the late afternoon light in their open concept living room and kitchen.

that heeded the area’s strict seismic and energy codes, using basic, affordable materials in inspired ways. The expansive view of the Bay Bridge, downtown San Francisco, Mount Tamalpais and the Marin Headlands from the floor-to-ceiling living room windows makes the home feel like

anything but a budget construction. But the lot’s steep slope turned out to be a cost-saving win.

“The most expensive parts of construction are excavation and concrete. On a downslope, I basically placed the house on the land not in the land, so we didn’t need to

excavate and the concrete was minimal,” he says, “That’s great for carbon because concrete emits a lot of carbon. The less you use, the better.”

From the street, only the top floor and garage, framed by live oaks, is visible. The family bedrooms and Rangr’s office are on the lower two levels. White painted walls, sharp angles, a cedar plank ceiling, and warm wood floors create the feeling of boxy, architectural simplicity. With its floating bookshelves, minimal but functional kitchen, and the sophisticated and spare modern furniture, it has the sensibility of a New York loft—that’s somehow suspended in the treetops.

The treehouse vibe is enforced by the use of rough, Alaskan Yellow

A drone shot of the home’s exterior demonstrates how the home was built into the slope. Alaska yellow cedar planks were used for the home’s exterior and interior creating a continuous flow.

”The earth needs a good lawyer,” says Dillen. “And that lawyer needs a good spot to raise her son.”

The streamlined, white kitchen practically disappears in the back of the great room. Two hanging speakers create surround sound with architectural simplicity. Coffee table, Noguchi. A similar blue sofa with tufted cushions can be found on Article.com. Colorful textiles warm up the sparsely furnished room.

Cedar planks, for both the interior, using it on the first-level ceiling and sanded smooth on the floors throughout, and for exterior siding. It creates a continuity between the spaces, and adds to Rangr’s vision to blur the barrier where inside living ends and nature begins.

“The whole living room was conceived as an outdoor porch, a glass box. Because it’s often chilly outside, the sun streams into the windows and warms up the glass box so we can open the door and feel like we’re living outside,” he says. “In order to do that and keep the costs down, only that patio door actually operates. The rest of the windows are fixed, so they’re half the price of operating windows. You see this is a lot of glass, but these large square panes are ascheap-as-you-can-get glass. All of the other windows in the house are as off the shelf as you can get. That helps save money, too.”

For the home’s four bathrooms,

Rangr managed costs by choosing standard white subway tile with dark gray grout for contrast and texture and affordable chrome fixtures. And the minimal furnishings are either custom-designed and built by Rangr and his team, vintage mid-century pieces collected over the years, or treasures like the Poul Kjaerholm lounger that was a gift from one of his clients.

While the hilltop location affords them a show-stopping view, it also puts them on the very edge of the wildlife interface. That means that there’s a steady stream of visitors like

Dillen’s mother is a skilled quilter, and her work is displayed in the guest room. Below, simple white subway tile is consistent throughout the home’s bathrooms, keeping the palette simple and costs low.

wild turkeys, deer, possums, and raccoons visible on Sher’s nighttime camera in the back garden. It also means that the risk of damage from earthquakes, mudslides, and wildfires is significant. Rangr built the home with damper frames and shear walls to reduce the vibrations from seismic activity. Fire-rated stucco covers most of the home’s exterior, and a sprinkler system was installed throughout. It’s a professional necessity for Dillen to be optimistic and realistic about environmental catastrophes, and that outlook extends to her home life.

“It’s going to burn up here,” she says, matter of factly. “It’s part of why I have all of my mom’s handmade quilts out in the guest room in a stack so I can throw them all in the car and go. I’ll admit that we are worried about fire. But luckily we have the fire station right there, and we’re right on the throughway if we need to evacuate.”

The risk/reward ratio of their living situation is not lost on them. And if Dillen’s life’s work has taught her anything, it’s that we all should enjoy the profound beauty of nature whenever possible, and for as long as possible.

Looking out the window in the morning, she sees daily proof that it’s all worth fighting for.

“One of the most amazing parts of being up here in the hills is that you get the most amazing view of the Marin Highlands, which is a true conservation miracle,” Dillen says, pointing to the green space around Mount Tam in the distance, that’s framed by their living room windows. “A bunch of local women in the 1970s fought to protect that land, and it wouldn’t be there without them. Can you imagine the city without it? It’s a miracle. And we wake up to it every day.”

Two iconic modern chairs, the NY folding chair in canvas and aluminum by Takeshi Nii and a Poul Kjaerholm chaise longue, are ideal spots for enjoying that magical late-day glow.

GARDEN CHECKLIST SUMMER YOUR

It’s go time in the garden! What to do in your garden no matter where you are in the West.

Story by KRISTIN GUY

PLANT

Sow for a second flush of blooms. Marigolds, sunflowers, cosmos, zinnias, and nasturtiums can be added into beds and interplanted with vegetables to ensure color through autumn while encouraging visiting pollinators.

Create a cut-and-comeagain salad bar of lettuces in shadier areas of the garden. Shallow roots allow easy interplanting with vining summer season crops like tomatoes and cucumbers which will provide sun relief on hot days. Try mixing in a few showy varieties such as Purple Mizuna, Flashy Trout Back, and Rossa Ricciolina tucked in with alliums to keep pests away from tender leaves.

HARVEST

Radishes bolting? Leave the blooms for the bees and wait for tender seed pods to form. Once they’re 1-2 inches long, pick and pickle in your favorite brine for a flavorful, crisp

summer snack. We love enjoying them with a little za’atar spice blend and fresh dill on top of a burrata toast.

Frequently check beans, basil, peppers, cucumbers, and zucchini and harvest often to promote additional growth and fruit production. Harvest in the morning when vegetables tend to be more sweet, crisp, and juicy—although nothing is better than a warm cherry tomato straight off the vine.

MAINTAIN

Summer soil will need replenishing for heavy feeding plants such as tomatoes, eggplant, and squash. When flowers start to form, apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer to promote healthy bloom production. We like to add a combo of Recipe 420 organic fertilizers Ultra Bloom and Recharge, which include biochar, calcium, and magnesium for robust bloom and fruit production.

Check bird baths, planter saucers, and other hidden areas for standing water and eliminate any opportunity for mosquitos to move in. Try adding a solar-powered bubbler to your bird bath to keep feathered friends happy and bugs at bay.

PROTECT

As temps start to heat up, soil needs protection in the form of additional mulch, compost, or dense plantings. Even adding easy-to-grow vegetables like squash placed within existing landscaping can keep soil temperatures cool and surrounding plants protected throughout the summer.

Create a fire season checklist to stay mindful of safety maintenance. Overgrown wild grasses, weeds, and any dead growth from shrubs and trees should be pruned back. Consider swapping out combustible shrubs with fire-safe native plantings such as Ceanothus.

Vineyard Vibes

How the design teams behind Healdsburg’s Flowers Vineyards & Winery created lush outdoor rooms worth lingering in.

Nestled among a towering redwood grove on the gorgeous and biologically diverse Sonoma Coast, Flowers Vineyards just might be the most beautifully landscaped winery—not just in Healdsburg, but in the entire West. With distinct tasting areas mimicking the natural landscape of the region, guests can sip Pinot Noir and Chardonnay not just under majestic redwoods, but within a native landscape that beautifully extends the surrounding shady canopies of the oak woodlands and structural shrubs of the chaparral foothills into quiet, intimate settings.

It’s apparent that the design philosophies behind this project took every plant consideration and placement with careful thought and purpose. From the tapestry of flowering perennials visible from the upper terrace to the lacey grasslands blanketing the floor beneath majestic oaks, each section of the garden was implemented with a sustainable mindset and changing seasonal interest which created outdoor spaces that are not just stunning, but inviting and restorative as well.

If this sounds like something you’d like to recreate in your own backyard, you’re not alone! Regenerative retreats are becoming a top-tier request from homeowners looking to infuse more nature into their daily lives. You don’t have to live next to a vineyard to benefit from this type of landscape design either. The teams at Nelson Byrd Woltz Landscape Architects and Alexis Woods Landscape Design give us their expert insight on how they created this exquisite ecological experience.

The design teams behind Flowers Vineyards created distinct tasting areas mimicking the surrounding natural landscape, here the balance of hardscape is softened by specific botanical choices, which soften the scene while creating texture and visual interest.

HORTICULTURAL HARMONY

What is most impressive about the outdoor areas at Flowers Vineyards is the juxtaposition of hardscape and soft plantings which evoke a harmonic textural experience. The team at Nelson Byrd Woltz Landscape Architects selected regional shrubs such as Rhamnus californica, Arctostaphylos, Carpenteria californica, and Ceanothus which all reinforce the structure of concrete walls and create a series of intimate tasting rooms throughout the site allowing for a diverse range of experiences. When it comes to using plants to create privacy, landscape designer Alexis Woods placed shrubs and trees in clusters to create screened-in areas for

conversation, while not blocking views of the surrounding landscape. She recommends selecting shrubs that grow no more than 3-4 feet tall so dining tables and chairs can be used within the space allowing the eye to enjoy the surrounding garden while seated.

By leaning into plants hyper-local to your specific outdoor space, you can create an extension of the surrounding ecology, inviting in wildlife which will ultimately provide biological balance and enhance your outdoor experience. The Nelson Byrd

From the tapestry of flowering perennials to the lacy grasslands beneath majestic oaks, each section was designed to not only be visually stunning, but also invite lingering and conversation.

Woltz Landscape Architects team encourages you to think about your garden as a home for a plant community, not as a collection of plants. By knowing your growing conditions and identifying a plant community that will thrive within your microclimate you will set yourself up for success. The team suggests starting with a mix of “workhorses,” such as native grasses, hardy perennials, and shrubs, that will provide yearround structure in your garden before layering in flowering perennials, annuals, and bulbs which provide color. Alexis Woods notes a mixture of ornamental grasses, such as Mulhenbergia, with soft tall plants like Salvia Winnifred Gilman, and lower plants like Teucrium chamaedrys and Erigeron glaucus give the soft, prairie-like effect similar to the meadow plantings at Flowers Vineyards.

STRUCTURAL STYLE

Embracing existing or creating new elevation changes within the landscape is key when creating outdoor rooms. When the team at Nelson Byrd Woltz Landscape

Architects began work on the project, there were a series of moss-covered rammed earth retaining walls they decided to preserve, knowing it would be impossible to match their aged patina. Sense of place is a theme implemented throughout the property. The use of hardscaping needed to feel appropriate to the agricultural heritage of the region, so the team adhered to a relatively simple palette of crushed stone, wood, blackened steel, and concrete.

Structure does not always come in the form of retaining walls. The design teams created different pathways for visitors to explore and wander that range from concrete to stable ground to gravel depending on the foot traffic. The team at Nelson Byrd Woltz Landscape Architects explains that where the expansive paving footprint of the upper terrace is exceptional for larger gatherings and events, they sought to soften the space by mixing concrete and crushed stone and pairing it with the grasses that move and sway in the breeze to soften the overall space.

For gardens with a smaller footprint, container plantings with carefully selected botanical accents can also be used throughout the space to create rooms.

The Nelson Byrd Woltz team encourages you to think of planters as a mix between a flower vase and a garden and use them to experiment with different shapes, colors, and textures. While they recommend native species for garden plantings, containers are an opportunity to introduce more exotic plants into the mix. Even small table planters can elevate an outdoor space. Alexis Woods notes that succulents and ornamental grasses were used throughout the tasting areas to provide small pops of different textures and colors which add life to the space without overwhelming it.

SPOTLIGHT ON SIMPLICITY

In addition to the natural sensory delights of sight and smell through the use of choice layered native plantings, sound also plays a vital role in this garden with flowing water throughout the tasting areas. For this project, the water features were all existing on site and made of the same rammed earth as the retaining walls. In addition to their rippling auditory components, they also trace and accentuate the elevation drops between garden terraces. You can easily replicate this soothing sound at home with an understated rock bubbler fountain, carefully tucked in a quiet corner surrounded by plants where birds and butterflies can also enjoy. When it comes to creating a similar calm and peaceful environment, both design teams suggest editing yourself. The team at Nelson Byrd Woltz Landscape Architects admits there is a tendency to want to throw everything into residential gardens and encourages you to tap the brakes and find the appropriate materials, plants, and elements that best amplify the unique qualities of your garden space. Alexis Woods echoes this sentiment noting that the purpose of the Flowers Vineyards design was to immerse the visitor in a garden that evokes the Sonoma county landscape by surrounding them with the same localized plants and materials. They suggest keeping your outdoor space simple so that the eye isn’t jumping around to a million different colors and textures so you can enjoy the simplistic perfection of your natural surroundings.

Mindful Maintenance

Step Off The Gas: These Are The Best Electric Leaf Blowers

While the switch from gas to electric seems like a no-brainer to reduce air and noise pollution, many consumers and landscape professionals are still holding back in hesitation. Whether you have a gardener or you are your own gardener, now’s the perfect time to become more mindful of the impact of your landscaping tools. If you choose to purchase an electric tool for your own use, offer it up to your landscape team to use while working on your property. If more people take the initiative to help those who help us, we just might see a greater shift towards helping the planet too. Here are our favorite electric leaf blowers no matter your garden needs.

Lightweight and easy to use with a one-handed speed control. If you have easy access to an outdoor outlet, this is the most powerful choice in corded electric blowers. With the highest CFM, you can move large piles of leaves quickly (with an iced tea in the other hand) with an impressive air volume up to 725 CFM.

BEST RECHARGEABLE

EGO Power+ 650 CFM

Leaf Blower; $299

With the longest run time of cordless electric blowers, this model can give you 90 minutes on a single charge. Heavier than plug-in options, but worth the effort to maneuver into hard to reach places and outermost corners of the yard that extension cords might not reach.

BEST REDUCED NOISE

Ryobi 40V HP

Brushless Whisper Series

730 CFM Blower; $279

Noticeably quieter than other electric options, this is perfect for minor yard clean up. While the run time is in the average range, we’re pleased this blower comes with an additional second battery for those larger seasonal jobs.

BEST BACKPACK

EGO Power+ 600CFM

Backpack Blower; $449

For those bigger jobs and never-ending autumnal leaf tackling, this cordless backpack offers up to 30 of minutes run time on turbo settings with a manufacturer claim of up to three hours on low. The second most lightweight when it comes to this larger style, it’s also on the quieter side providing best in class performance, comfort, and mobility.

BEST MULTI-TASKER

Greenworks 40V

Cordless Blower / Vac; $79

A personal favorite. Why blow the leaves around when you can suck them up and use the chipped-up by-prodcut as mulch around the garden? Configured to work as a traditional leaf blower as well, this is a great option for those looking for a multipurpose tool that can go anywhere, roof/gutter cleanup included.

BEST PLUG-IN Toro PowerJet F700; $99

West Coast Optimism

Designer Oliver Furth Infuses His Iconic Style Into Summer Entertaining

Oliver Furth, a fourth-generation Los Angeles native,

A-List interior designer, and AD100 winner, is best known for his irreverent ability to blend different styles and eras seamlessly. He is a firm believer that making a home for oneself is in itself an act of optimism and the most important ingredient when designing any space is joy.

In his recently released monograph, OP! Optimistic Interiors, Furth masterfully combines classical and contemporary influences with California cool, creating vivid spaces infused with color and happiness prized by celebrities, creatives, and collectors alike. Here he shares four tips on how to infuse a little “West Coast Optimism” into your outdoor styling this summer.

MATERIAL MIX

Don’t be afraid to use a juxtaposition of materials when it comes to selecting upholstery fabrics, rugs, and outdoor

furniture finishes. “Having a certain tension within materiality lends dynamism to a space and will encourage more interesting dialogs and unexpected connections,” says Furth. Think smooth against rough, or soft against slick—any combination can elevate your style and create intrigue.

PLANT PLAY

Furth likes to incorporate live plants and trees whenever he can, embracing how “they change and grow over time in surprising ways, which can help keep things from feeling static.” Specific plant selections vary from project to project, but he suggests personality of the home and context play a big factor when choosing botanicals. Furth encourages to lean into location. If it’s an exotic tropical vibe, source large palms and aralia trees. For something more early 20th-century, specimen ferns give the right feeling. Try extending the surrounding landscape into more

Maximally mixed materials, colors, and bold botanicals give this room power and pop.

Possibly the most graphically impressive breakfast nook we’ve ever seen.

intimate communal areas with a mix of small trees and lush shrubs in containers.

BRIGHT IDEA

When it comes to choosing one of the most important items to elevate an outdoor space, Furth suggests investing in lighting, suggesting “it’s crucial to be able to see, and setting the mood for evenings alfresco is important to outdoor spaces’ usability.”

He also notes how it is wonderful to see the outside, even while you’re indoors. With outdoor lighting products spanning from discrete solar landscaping spotlights to architectural statements with table lanterns, a well-lit garden will extend your home’s enjoyability and livability throughout the year.

SMALL-SCALE STYLE

No matter the size of your outdoor space, always add in a bit of nature. Oliver suggests even a small patio or balcony can be greatly improved by a single potted plant, adding “having plants to tend to will not only force you to spend some time outside connecting to the earth, but those few minutes per week watering and caring for a plant can greatly improve your experience living in your space.”

Get the Look

Oliver Furth is no stranger to bold shapes and bright colors. Here he shares a few fabulous favorites that show how to add a pop of personality when styling your outdoor oasis.

BZIPPY SCALLOP PLANTER

BZippy is an independent, female-owned ceramics workshop. Bari Ziperstein and her team make wonderful ceramic vases, vessels, side tables, and other objects. I’m a fan of her ceramic planters, which can live outside or inside. They come in a spectrum of jolly shapes and fun glaze colors. bzippyandcompany.com

SHORE STUDIOS OUTDOOR RUGS

Shore Studios make durable, comfortable, colorful outdoor rugs woven by hand in a range of colors and different weaves. They are super innovative designs and feel great on your feet.

LARGE BELLES RIVES TRAY

I invest in lots of trays for outdoor entertaining. This helps cut down on trips to/from the kitchen. These glossy trays from The Lacquer Company are festive and functional. They come in an array of fun, joyful colors, and are easily wiped down if spills occur—and we all know they do. us.thelacquercompany.com

I love an interesting way to bring color and pattern to the garden. shore-studios.com

CIRCLE FACTORY BROWN BOWL IN BLACK OAK

I’m a big fan of George Peterson’s hand-turned wood bowls, and buy them for many of our projects. They’re food safe and handy in a kitchen, on a table, or outside. Each one is unique, made by hand in North Carolina in different species of wood. okthestore.com

OP! Optimistic Interiors by Oliver Furth, $55, rizzolibookstore.com

Story by KRISTIN GUY

by THOMAS J. STORY

WREATH WRANGLER THE

A SECOND GENERATION FLOWER FARMER AND FLORIST HARNESSES THE BEAUTY OF BLOOMS TO CREATE EVERLASTING WORKS OF ART WHILE LEANING INTO A LEGACY FLOURISHING WITH SUSTAINABILITY.

Photographs

Hannah Rose Rivers Muller is essentially a farmer-florist by birth. She was born at Full Belly Farm, located in the rural, charming Capay Valley of Northern California, and works there to this day. She gained her expertise, similar to how plants absorb water, through osmosis— her skills and knowledge a result of the very soil she was raised on. Here she learned the inner workings of the flower fields, small hands exploring the ground, taking naps in harvest baskets between colorful rows, watching seasons change in vibrancy and texture, and admiring her mother who skillfully nurtured and expanded the flower fields over the decades with care.

Full Belly Farm grows much more than just flowers, with over 350 acres dedicated to certified organic fruits, vegetables, and livestock. While only fifteen of those acres are devoted to cut flowers, they are Hannah’s entire existence. Growing up at the farm provided a sense of purpose. Over time her childhood play plot became a place of passion that lured her back as an adult. She now works alongside a crew of 80 and is in the process of becoming one of the seven owners.

Hannah is well known for pioneering the Northern California field-to-vase movement and for making one-of-a-kind floral arrangements that mimic the surrounding landscape and use the blooms, fruits, and vegetables grown on-site. She’s also known for her unparalleled ability to identify and preserve specific blooms for their full everlasting potential and has just released Designing With Dried Flowers, an impressive and gorgeously photographed compendium on the subject. Her online posts chronicling her time in the field and inside the farm’s extremely photogenic “Wreath Room” have garnered her a following of tens of thousands of followers who relish being transported into the glimmering golden light of the now-iconic floral drying barn and inspired by the whimsical forever-flower creations she masterfully composes inside of it. Similar to the dried blooms she tends to and preserves so carefully, her passion to continue a legacy of cultivating and creating at Full Belly Farm runs deeper than any of the roots growing in the field.

HEIRLOOMS WITH HISTORY

Hannah’s mom, Dru Rivers, was one of the first certified organic farmers in California. She spearheaded the flower industry’s sustainable and locally grown initiatives early on with her exceptional expertise in not only floral design, but in developing proper harvesting techniques that were essential to the success and expansion of Full Belly’s offerings. When Hannah began her floral design business, she knew there was something special about using the organic flowers and produce that were growing together naturally in their fields. Seeing her mother and the farm crew treat each stem with care while harvesting both efficiency and mindfully is still the driving force behind her own work ethic today. The dried flowers have been Hannah’s personal farm project, one which she’s cultivated over the past 10 years. She has spearheaded these dry flower initiatives not only as a more sustainable

Here Hannah Rose Rivers Muller takes a pause from morning flower harvesting and arranging with Fully Belly’s farm dog Zeus.

With blooms tucked in every square inch, The Wreath Room has been called an “upside down garden.” Flowers are secured to wires with rubber bands.

option for customers, but because it provides year-round employment for the Full Belly crew while maximizing the space used to grow cut flowers.

FARMING THE FOREVER FLOWER

There are three main things the Full Belly crew adheres to when selecting plants for drying: plant material or blooms that hold color, flowers that do not easily shed petals, and specimens that offer a unique shape, texture, or color for arranging. Hannah explains that there is a lot of

trial and error, especially when it comes to keeping color, which was the catalyst for writing Designing With Dried Flowers, which provides 40 years of collective experience on the craft. In her book, Hannah beautifully bullets each step of this process, making the art of preservation attainable and exciting. She breaks down each flower from every season and then dives into the role each of these play for a number of dried flower designs. She has become a master at utilizing forever flowers for full, complex, and unique arrangements and it is quite possibly the most robust and

thoughtful floral book recently published. When working, Hannah prefers the natural sounds of the farm in lue of listening to music or podcasts. The symphony of bees looking for nectar, birds calling to one another, the crew speaking to each other in Spanish, and livestock in neighboring pastures makes her feel present. There is a different mindset when growing flowers for drying versus fresh cut blooms. For example, flowers destined for drying should be harvested when they’ve fully opened their blooms, unlike fresh flowers for arranging. Curiosity

FLOWER FARMING FAVES

Looking to step up your flower garden game?

These are the tools that get Hannah’s blooms from field to forever arrangement.

CORONA CLIPPERS $12

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The go-to clippers for Full Belly Farm, affordable and sharp.

WOODEN CLOTHES DRYING RACK $90 LEHMANS.COM

Easy to fold and store when flowers are done drying.

OASIS PADDLE WIRE $38

OASISFLORALPRODUCTS.COM

Best floral wire for securing garlands, wreaths, and crowns.

CAMINITO SUN HAT $32

CAMINITO.CO

Perfect for putting up hair with great coverage.

WELEDA HAND CREAM $20

WELEDA.COM

Dry, cracked hands are the worst. Hannah suggests using hand cream every day.

WHIMSY BY WYETH BUD VASES $25 ETSY.COM/SHOP/WHIMSYBYWYETH

These ceramic, heavy vases are best for holding lightweight dried flowers.

REDBACKS MESA WORK BOOTS $185

REDBACKBOOTS.COM

Hannah’s footwear pick while working during the summer months.

and experimentation are also important, such as when certain seasons provide an overabundance of varieties. Sunflowers, zinnias, marigolds, snapdragons, and rudbeckia are all examples of flowers that are now some of Full Belly’s dried stem staples that in the past have only been marketed as fresh cut blooms. These positive pivots aid in the farm’s ability to innovate and create in new, exciting ways.

THE WREATH ROOM

The Wreath Room at Full Belly Farm is an old barn where flowers are dried and countless creations are made. The team practices simple drying methods using wires strung tightly between the ceiling beams and secured with rubber bands. Hannah muses how it changes over the course of the four seasons, sharing how in the spring it is a pastel dreamscape filled with purple and pink larkspur, soft green flax, and wheat with a rainbow of ranunculus. The summer brings bright and punchy hues, long

Hannah arranges dried blooms using chicken wire, focusing on a seasonally simple design using four or five different elements placed loosely in a wide-mouth vase.

stems of sunflowers, craspedia, strawflower, and statice. She adds how fall feels like “faded velvet,” when the floor becomes riddled with celosia seed, and the dominant colors are a rich mix of burgundy, deep reds, and oranges. Wintertime is a moment of resetting when the team takes down all of the flowers from the wires and cleans the entire room. Emptiness is greeted with excitement and preparation for the growing seasons ahead.

In addition to handling day-to-day flower operations both in the field and creating arrangements for events, weddings, and market sales, Hannah also runs the Full Belly Farm social media accounts, which have brought the Wreath Room some major attention and spotlight. She credits it to being a naturally beautiful space, and how people might be drawn to the calming videos or unique “upside down garden” qualities. She admits the attention has not changed what they do at the farm, and if anything has encouraged them to grow a bit more. She adds that they started growing flowers for drying long before Instagram (and the internet!) so they will continue to carry on creating their whimsical wreaths and dried arrangements as they have been for the past four decades with commitment and care.

COMMITMENT TO COMMUNITY

Full Belly Farm has always tried to have an open door policy, hosting a myriad of tours, open farm days, events, and workshops throughout the year. Hannah explains that education was built into the very foundation of their farm. Currently hosting two wreath classes in the fall and winter, Hannah is looking to expand the on-farm floral design classes to provide more field and design experience for those interested in learning about floral farming and design. She beams, confessing there is nothing more rewarding than sharing the farm with others.

The monthly farm dinners are curated by Hannah’s brother Amon Muller and his wife Jenna who are amazing chefs and offer something incredibly unique and beautiful for visitors. Showcasing the best of the season through food, ambiance, and flowers, these multi-course meals aren’t stuffy or overdone, but grounded in the farmland that everyone is so thrilled to be a part of. Hannah’s self-expression through flowers also weaves into these events. She loves these elevated nights because unlike weddings, there’s a chance to let her imagination run wild, using ingredients that she can’t typically use in their daily bouquets such as fresh fruit, tomatoes on the vine, and tulips that have blown open.

Hannah’s gratitude is profound. She loves witnessing these amazing nights where guests get to experience Full Belly in all its glory. Her dedication and love for this farm goes far beyond familial. It is a celebration of so many people’s devotion and hard work. Hannah’s respect for the land and the team who tends to it prove that leaning into legacy is about curating longevity. It’s about honoring the past decades who paved the way while shaping the future decades with the same caring mindset as how one cultivates flowers intended to last forever.

Curated by Hannah’s brother Amon Muller and his wife Jenna (lower right), monthly dinners showcase the best of the season through food, ambiance, and flowers.

HOW TO MAKE A Floral Braid

In Hannah Muller’s debut book, Designing With Dried Flowers ($27.99; Penguin Random House), she shares expert advice straight from the fields on how to create beautiful, everlasting works of art for any season and occasion. Packed with gorgeous photography, handfuls of tips, flower growing and harvesting suggestions plus inspiring dried flower crafts that go well beyond vase arrangements. Here Hannah shares a stunning interpretation of braided garlic which weaves in late spring and summer blooms such as strawflower, statice, ammobium, and flax that are also ready to pick just in time for your mid-year garlic harvesting. We hope this DIY inspires you to grow and preserve from your garden in new, thoughtful ways.

FOR THIS DESIGN

1. Prepare the flowers and garlic by removing any foliage below their heads. Keep flower stems longer than 5 inches and the stems of the garlic as long as possible.

MATERIALS

3 50 stems of flowers, such as statice, ammobium, nigella, and flax 12 or more garlic heads with about 1-foot-long, semigreen stems

Twine or ribbon

IN THE SPRING, the smell of garlic hangs heavy in the air at the farm. The fresh green garlic gets harvested and sorted and is brought into our packing shed to get washed of any mud. Every afternoon, the packing shed smells as if the finest French cuisine is being served. My mouth waters as I arrange mixed bouquets a couple yards away in our floral room. We have learned to appreciate garlic at every stage of its life at Full Belly Farm. Once the green tips of the shoots begin to turn slightly brown, we know that the heads are starting to form underground, getting larger and mature enough to harvest and dry for the summer. But before they dry completely, when the stems are still green, one of our favorite traditions is to make garlic braids with dried flowers. There is a reason this age-old tradition of twisting strands of garlic into art persists.

If you cultivate your own garlic for this arrangement, harvest it when there are three or four green leaves still visible. Clean off any dirt and broken leaves and trim the roots low. If you don’t grow your own garlic, garlic bulbs with the greens still attached are not commonly found in grocery stores, so look for them at a farmers market. You may need to partially dry them for a few days after you get them home so they are the right texture for braiding. To ensure that the flowers are malleable enough for braiding, use ones that have been rehydrated or are not yet fully dry and will dry in place.

There are a few talented individuals at Full Belly Farm who create masterful garlic braids every summer. Their technique and skill make the task look simple, but just like any craft, practice and patience is required. For this project I asked Catalina, one of our talented farmers, to step in to demonstrate how to create these beautiful designs.

2. Begin the braid by crossing two garlic heads at the neck to form an X. Place a third garlic head on top of the X and tightly loop its stem underneath and over the top of the X so that it comes all the way around to face downwards again and holds the first two crossed heads in place.

3. Add in your first flowers following the same crossed X shape so that the flower stems fall roughly in line with your crossed garlic stems. Put in only one or two flowers at a time and keep their height slightly above the tops of the bulbs. For the remainder of the braiding instructions, add in flowers as desired with each new layer of garlic heads.

4. To start creating the descending braid, add in two more garlic heads, in another crossed X shape on top of your first flowers, staggering them a half inch lower than the heads underneath them.

5. Place another head in the center of the braid with its stem pointed straight down. You should now have six heads of garlic with three distinct stem clusters.

6. Take the right stem from the bottom X and wrap it tightly across the top of your braid so that it now points down and to the left. Now you should have two layers of three garlic heads each and have formed the base of

your braid. You’re ready to begin a standard three-strand braid.

7. Add in another head with the stem pointed straight down and lay a second head on top, with its stem pointed down and to the left and its head up and to the right. Wrap the bottommost garlic stem that is pointed down and to the left up and around so that it joins the middle cluster. Add in another garlic head to complete another row of three heads.

8. Continue to add in garlic and flowers in the same crossing and braiding pattern until you have run out of garlic. The added heads and wrapped stems don’t always follow an exact pattern. Improvise where you direct your new stems as necessary to keep each of your three braiding clusters roughly uniform.

9. With twine, tightly wrap the entire braid beneath your bottommost garlic heads. Keep an extra yard of twine on each end of your knot. Continue to braid the remainder of your stems, including the extra twine along with them. This will provide extra strength when hanging your braid on a wall as the stems dry and weaken over time.

10. When you have reached the dry ends of your stems, tightly tie up the whole braid again, using the remaining lengths of twine that come out of your braid. Trim off any dry ends of your stems and add in more flowers to the lower portion of braided stem as shown, or, for a wilder look, leave the braid exposed and the stem ends intact.

DRINK the ISSUE

Join the Sunset Wine Club, which features the best bottles in the West, perfectly paired with recipes in the magazine.

You’re cordially invited to join the Sunset Wine Club, a selection of story-worthy wines produced by the top growers and vintners in California, Oregon, Washington, and beyond—delivered straight to your door. We’ve partnered with the country’s premier online wine retailer, Wine Access, to curate a standout mix of reds, whites,

bubblies, and rosés to drink this season. Think of each delivery as a box of aperitifs, party-ready bottles, and weeknight dinner solutions. Even better, they’ve been selected to go with the recipes and menus in the issue you’re holding in your hands. As a member of the Sunset Wine Club, you will receive the following exclusive benefits:

2021 Courtney

Benham Cabernet

Sauvignon

Sonoma County

PAIRS WITH: Beet and Blackberry Buckwheat Salad (page 65). The dish combines the earthiness of beets with sweet summer berries. Nothing could be better than a bold Cabernet that shines with jammy blackberry, cocoa nibs, and a burst of tobacco that picks up on the mint flavor.

2018 Dashe Cellars

Zinfandel Les Enfants Terribles

Mendocino Ridge

PAIRS WITH: Tacos La Paz (page 70) and pretty much any meat you’re grilling this summer. This super food-friendly Zinfandel has enough acid to cut through the richness of fried or grilled food, with a peppery spice and silky juiciness that’s delightful at the table or before the meal.

2016 Three Wine Company Mataro Spinelli Vineyard

Six

Story-Worthy Wines, Shipped Every Three

Months

Each bottle is thoughtfully crafted by a group of diverse, environmentally responsible winemakers.

Sunset Recipes, Profound

Pairings

Every bottle comes with exclusive tasting notes and suggested pairings for Sunset recipes, hand-picked by sommeliers.

First Shot at Rare Gems and Icons You’ll be first in line to claim the newest, highly allocated wines. These are bottles Sunset editors stand behind and serve in their own homes.

Subscribe to the Sunset Wine Club and you’re not just getting wine shipments. You’re getting a taste of the magazine’s featured selections and the captivating story behind each bottle. It’s an invitation to sit and sip at the Sunset table. $120 per shipment.

2023 Marietta Cellars Old Vine

Rosé California

Contra Costa County

PAIRS WITH: Side Garden Panzanella Salad (page 63). With tomatoes center stage in this dish, wine should play a supporting role. With eight years of bottle age, the wine’s herbal elements will bring out the savory flavors of the tomatoes and match the spice in the dressing.

PAIRS WITH: Kanpachi Sashimi With Salsa Morita (page 69). To ensure that the fresh fish and delicate smoky flavors in the dish shine, a rosé with bright acidity is ideal. The Marietta Cellars rosé grabs onto the lemon and cilantro, amplifying them while still letting the fish come through.

2019 Calling Card Chardonnay

Sonoma Coast

Sonoma County

PAIRS WITH: Tacos La Paz (page 70). This Chardonnay is the ideal pairing thanks to a bright crispness on the finish that picks up on the citrus and refreshes the palate, all while having enough bold body to stand up to the richness of the fried fish and match the creaminess of the sauce.

Willamette Valley

PAIRS WITH: Rhubarb Panna Cotta (page 64). Bubbles and dessert is a perfect pairing. Made from Pinot Noir, this wine has a red-fruit quality with flavors of plum and cherry that enhance the rhubarb with every sip. It also has a hint of brioche and cream that pairs nicely with the graham cracker crust.

2018 Argyle Winery

Willamette Valley

Blanc De Noirs

From (Tiny) Plot to Plate FOOD & DRINK

Rosie Daykin’s new cookbook proves that bountiful harvests can come from any sized plot and that freshly picked produce is the most important ingredient.

By KRISTIN GUY

Rosie Daykin is an award-winning cookbook author who also happens to be an amazing gardener on the side—literally. She turned a languishing patch of land beside her Vancouver home into a swoon-worthy English-inspired garden that is just as beautiful as the food that she harvests and cooks from it. In her latest cookbook, The Side Gardener: Recipes and Notes from My Garden, she shares effortless vegetable-forward recipes and tending tips straight from her pretty plot that will convince anyone of the importance of nourishing our bodies and the land that provides for us—no green thumb required.

Enthusiastically embracing the extended gardening seasons living in the West, Rosie praises the lengthened warm climate which allows her to get a head start planting must-have favorites like greens, English peas, radish, tomatoes, and herbs. Admittedly a victim of impulse buying from seed catalogs, she is a true stylist at heart, always experimenting with new vegetable varieties that will pop boldly upon her plate. Rosie’s current plant palette consists of blush-colored beauties including the highly aromatic Chinese pink celery, a beautifully vining Japanese cherry tomato called “Pinky,” and a sweet tasting “Pea Shiraz (Mangetout)” shelling pea with a deep burgundy shell. Her approach to gardening is about being open-minded and unafraid of a little trial and error. She encourages her readers to not give up or feel intimidated. She explains that after “that first ripe tomato you pluck off the vine or handful of radish you pull from the earth…it will all make sense.”

Rosie’s passion for creating these recipes straight from the garden is apparent throughout The Side Gardener. Her enthusiasm shines in this lovely testament to freshly picked produce—be it from your own garden or the local farmers market. Rosie hopes this book proves that a bountiful harvest can come from the smallest of spaces and how even a patio planter of herbs on a balcony or windowsill can bring just as much satisfaction and peace of mind. Here she shares a few recipes from the book that will not only celebrate the flavors of your summer garden, but all the joy it brought while taking care of it.

Side Garden Panzanella Salad

A dish where swaps are encouraged, use any leafy green of your choice and whatever is fresh from the garden, be it raw beets in place of the radishes or chunks of zucchini in lieu of cucumber. Rosie insists on using a lovely sourdough bread to make the croutons and not to skimp on the olive oil when toasting them, advising that croutons that are too dry won’t soak up the dressing in the same delicious way.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

SALAD

4 thick slices sourdough bread, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 Tbsp. olive oil

1 tsp. flaky sea salt

1 tsp. Italian seasoning

¼ pound green beans, trimmed

4 large tomatoes, seeds removed and cut into 8 wedges each

1 cup fresh English peas

6 to 8 radishes, thinly sliced

1 English cucumber, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 big handful arugula

1 handful fresh basil leaves, roughly torn

2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh chives

DRESSING

2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar

2 tsp. Dijon mustard

½ tsp. salt

½ tsp. pepper

½ cup olive oil

1. To make the salad: Preheat the oven to 375°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Place the cubed bread pieces in a large bowl and drizzle with the olive oil. Use your hands or a large spoon to toss and coat the pieces.

3. Spread the bread across the prepared baking sheet and sprinkle with sea salt and Italian seasoning. Place in the preheated oven for 10 minutes, until the bread is just starting to get a little crispy and brown. Remove the bread from the oven and allow it to cool.

4. Bring a small pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Gently lower the trimmed green beans into the boiling water and allow them to cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until a lovely bright green. Remove the beans from the heat and drain through a colander. Run cold water over the beans for a minute or so and then set them aside to drain.

5. To make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper. Slowly add the olive oil while continuing to whisk until the dressing is fully combined.

6. In a large serving bowl, combine the tomatoes, green beans, fresh peas, radishes, cucumber, arugula, basil, chives, and bread. Dress the salad and toss to combine.

Rhubarb Panna Cotta

Where rhubarb might not be the easiest to grow in some areas of the West, this recipe could not be easier to make! Scout your local farmers market for ruby stalks that are firm, unbent, and bruise-free. Rosie suggests the addition of a graham sprinkle, which adds that extra little bit of texture to all that creamy goodness.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

RHUBARB

2 cups chopped rhubarb stems

2 Tbsp. sugar

1 tsp. lemon juice

PANNA COTTA

1 envelope (2.5 tsp.) unflavored gelatin

¼ cup water

3 cups whipping cream

½ cup sugar

1½ tsp. vanilla paste

½ tsp. salt

GRAHAM TOPPING

¼ cup graham crumbs

1 Tbsp. sugar

1. Place 6 glass compotes (ideally ¾ cup) or ramekins (see Note) on a small baking sheet or tray and set aside.

2. To make the rhubarb: In a small saucepan, combine the rhubarb, sugar, and lemon juice over medium-high heat and stir to combine. Continue to stir for another 5 to 8 minutes, until the sugar starts to melt. Reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook until the rhubarb has broken down and become quite mushy, like a chunky jam.

3. Divide the rhubarb evenly between the 6 compotes and set aside.

4. To make the panna cotta: In a small saucepan, warm the gelatin and water over medium heat until the gelatin has dissolved. Remove from the heat.

5. In another saucepan over medium heat, whisk together the cream, sugar, vanilla paste, and salt. Adjust the heat to bring it to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the gelatin mixture until combined.

6. Divide the panna cotta mixture among the compotes, carefully pouring it atop the rhubarb in each one. Place the panna cotta tray in the refrigerator until they just start to set, about 1 hour.

7. To make the graham topping: In a small bowl, stir to combine the graham crumbs and sugar.

8. Remove the tray of compotes from the refrigerator and sprinkle the top of each one with approximately ¾ Tbsp. of graham crumbs. Return the tray to the refrigerator until the panna cotta has fully set, at least 3 hours or overnight.

NOTE:

If you have chosen to use ramekins, you will need to release each panna cotta onto a plate to fully appreciate the layers when serving. To do this, simply set the ramekins in a shallow bowl of hot water for a few seconds, making sure the water only rises halfway up the side of the ramekin. Run a small knife around the edge of the panna cotta and then invert it over a small dessert plate. Gently lift the ramekin to release it.

Beet, Blackberry Buckwheat Salad

A gorgeous dish for a summer table, the nutty flavors of the buckwheat paired with the crunch of the hazelnuts give the salad an extra punch alongside the creamy labneh and roasted beets. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

SALAD

1 large or 2 medium beets

Olive oil, for drizzling

1 tsp. salt

½ tsp. pepper

1 handful hazelnuts

½ cup dried buckwheat

1 cup fresh blackberries

1 big handful fresh mint leaves, roughly torn

1 cup labneh or plain Greek yogurt

Lemon zest, to serve

DRESSING

1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

1 tsp. dark brown sugar

½ tsp. salt

3 Tbsp. olive oil

1. To make the salad: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Rinse any dirt or debris off the beets and trim the tops and bottoms. Place the beets on a sheet of foil, drizzle with a little olive oil, and sprinkle with half of the salt and the pepper. Wrap them inside the foil and place directly on the oven rack to roast until fork tender, approximately 45 minutes.

2. Place the hazelnuts on a baking sheet or small baking pan and pop in the oven with the beets for 5 minutes, until they are lightly roasted and fragrant. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and allow the nuts to sit until they are cool enough to roughly chop. Don’t worry about removing their skins; I like the added color they provide.

3. Remove the beets from the oven and set aside until they are cool enough to handle. Remove the skins of the beets and cut into 1-inch pieces. Transfer the cut beets to a large bowl.

4. Fill a small saucepan with 1 cup of water, the buckwheat, and the remaining ½ tsp. salt. Place the pot

over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, put the lid on, and allow the buckwheat to cook for about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat. Lift the lid, place a clean, folded tea towel across the top of the pot, and replace the lid. Allow the buckwheat to steam for about 5 minutes more. Remove the lid and fluff the buckwheat with a fork.

5. Set the pot aside. Once buckwheat has cooled, add it to the beets.

6. Add the chopped nuts, blackberries, and torn mint to the bowl. Season

with salt and pepper to taste and using a large spoon, toss to combine.

7. To make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, brown sugar, and salt. Slowly add the olive oil while continuing to whisk until well combined. Dress the salad and toss it all again.

8. Use a spoon to spread the labneh or Greek yogurt across the bottom of a large serving platter. Top with the salad and sprinkle with lemon zest to serve.

SEASIDE SEAFOOD

BLISS

At Casamarte in La Paz, the bounty of Baja takes center stage.

Story by KRISTA SIM MONS

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

t’s a perfectly still afternoon along the Malecón. Sea salt seasons the warm ocean breeze, and fishing boats bob along the boardwalk overlooking the Sea of Cortez. The vast blue ocean known as the world’s aquarium beckons, and it’s easy to see why countless explorers—from Jacques Cousteau to super-yachters like Steven Spielberg—have made their way to the somewhat off-the-beaten-path locale of La Paz. Me? I’m here for the fish tacos. And there’s no better place to get them than Casamarte.

Helmed by Héctor Palacios, a dynamo of a chef who was both born and raised in La Paz, the kitchen at Casamarte is focused on showcasing the bounty of products from Baja California Sur, from the sustainable seafood to the fresh produce, right down to the art that adorns the walls by talented local printmaker Daniel Amora.

Palacios means business when it comes to protecting the oceans and showcasing what the region has to offer. He is an ambassador for COMPESCA, a Mexican organization dedicated to preserving the rich marine resources and aquaculture of the area for future generations. His eyes light up when speaking about gastronomía sudcaliforniano, or Southern Baja Californian cuisine, which he hopes will continue to have a lasting impact on the culinary landscape of Mexico and beyond.

The young chef is also passionate about a new movement that’s taking the culinary world by storm across the border in the States: aging seafood. Though it might sound counterintuitive, dry aging fish, or añejando as it’s called locally, actually is known to eliminate the oceanic funk and taste of the meat and gives the fish a more elegant, tender texture. Though the technique has long been used by the Japanese, it’s just now catching on in Western kitchens.

In Palacios’ dry aging locker, he cures local kanpachi from Omega Azul Seafood, a local aquaculture farm that’s widely known for having some of the best in the business. While cuts of beef may be aged for several months, fish only need a few days to complete the process. The result is a rich, buttery texture that is an incredible compliment to Palacios’ smoky salsa morita, which is served as an eye-poppingly beautiful base for crudo during lunch and dinner service.

On the menu, you’ll also find bright and briny oysters from Magdalena Bay prepared both grilled and shucked fresh, Baja’s famous chocolata clams served with lemon and salsa, and of course, Baja fish tacos, battered and dressed to perfection. There’s also a selection of fantastic housemade cocktails centered around Mexican spirits and an extensive list of natural wines produced south of the border.

If it sounds like a feast fit for Poseidon, that’s because it is. Being within close proximity to the ocean is only part of the draw. La Paz, located just two hours north of the raucous Cabo San Lucas, is Baja California Sur’s capital city and is experiencing a bit of a culinary renaissance. Within walking distance of Casamarte is the hip new boutique hotel Baja Club, whose restaurant also focuses on seafood, but with a Greek twist, and several new restaurants and breweries that draw a young, stylish Mexican crowd that you won’t find in the state’s tourist traps.

If that’s not enough of a siren call to draw you into what’s undeniably becoming one of Mexico’s most exciting cities to visit, and you’d rather make the dishes at home, Palacios has shared some of his recipes for you to bring some Baja bliss to your table.

SHRIMP CEVICHE

Palacios imparts an elevated take on the classic ceviche by presenting it playfully in oyster shells, then topping it with yet another piece of shrimp to garnish. The addition of sesame oil and plenty of acid make this dish so much more than Instafood, and worthy of the finest seafood spreads. SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS:

¼ lb. fresh large shrimp, peeled, deveined and chopped into ¼ inch pieces

6 fresh large shrimp, whole

¼ cup finely chopped red onion

¼ cup finely chopped cucumber

2 tsp. sesame oil

1 Tbsp. lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste

Cleaned oyster shells for serving

How to Make It: Place chopped shrimp in a mixing bowl. Add chopped onion and cucumber. Stir to combine, then add sesame oil and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and add more lemon juice if desired. Separately, blanch whole shrimp in salted boiling water for 30 seconds, then remove with a slotted spoon and put into an ice bath to cool. Peel and set aside. Scoop small spoonfuls of the ceviche mixture into individual oyster shells. Top each oyster with whole shrimps to garnish. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

KANPACHI SASHIMI WITH SALSA MORITA

Crudo is on practically every menu in the West these days, but what makes this one special is twofold: the use of delicate, dryaged kanpachi, as well as Palacios’ incredible smoky salsa morita. Fans of chipotle may find the flavor somewhat familiar; morita chiles are made from smoked, redripe jalapeno peppers whereas chipotles come from the unripened green fruit. The result is a rich, smoky sweetness that’s fantastic when paired with the fish.

SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS:

¼ lb. kanpachi filet

½ cup salsa morita (see below)

¼ cup cilantro to garnish

INGREDIENTS FOR SALSA MORITA:

¼ cup finely chopped cucumber

¼ cup finely chopped red onion

¼ cup finely chopped morita chiles

3 Tbsp. olive oil

1 Tbsp. lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste

How to Make It: First make the salsa. Combine chopped cucumber, red onion, and morita chiles in a mixing bowl. Then mix in olive oil and lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add more lemon juice if desired. Spread evenly on a plate as the base. Then, cut the fish into thin slices, approximately ¼ of an inch thick. Place on top of sauce. Garnish with cilantro and serve.

TACOS LA PAZ

Is there anything more Baja than a breaded and fried fish taco? Said to have originated in Ensenada in the Northern part of the state in the 1950s, the batter may have actually been inspired by Japanese immigrants in the area who fried the fish in tempura. Make chipotle crema by mixing sauce from canned chipotles in adobo into sour cream until it’s just spicy enough! SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS:

1 lb. filet of fresh white fish, preferably snapper or cod

¼ cup chipotle crema

½ cup cabbage and carrot slaw (see below)

4 flour tortillas

BATTER

2 cups all purpose flour

1 tsp. dried oregano

1 Tbsp. garlic powder

1 Tbsp. onion powder

1 ½ tsp. baking powder

8 oz. beer

Salt and pepper to taste

CABBAGE AND CARROT SLAW

¼ cup shredded cabbage

¼ cup shredded carrots

How to Make It: First make the batter. Mix ingredients in a bowl until you achieve a homogeneous mixture.

Cut the fish into fingers. Dredge fish in batter. Fry in hot vegetable oil heated to approximately 350 degrees, for about 3 minutes, until golden brown and let cool on a wire cooling rack or paper towel. Toss together carrots and cabbage in a small mixing bowl and set aside.

Put the flour tortilla on a plate and top with crema, cabbage, and carrot slow, and fried fish. Serve with salsas and fresh lime wedges.

NARANJITA

This cocktail is everything you want to sip on while sitting on a patio overlooking the ocean on a warm summer day. The thyme and clementine juices play really nicely with the spiced notes of the rum, giving it dimension and a character not dissimilar from a tiki drink.

INGREDIENTS:

1 ½ oz. orange juice

1 oz. clementine juice

1 oz. thyme simple syrup

¼ oz. lemon juice

1 oz. reposado tequila

½ oz. spiced rum

Sprig of dried thyme and a dehydrated orange

How to Make It: Add liquids to the shaker and shake to chill. Strain the liquid into a rocks glass, add ice, and garnish with fresh thyme and dehydrated orange slice.

VUELVE A LA VIDA

This cocktail translates to “come back to life” and is a common hangover cure. Think of it as a bloody mary, minus the booze. At Casamarte, Palacios’ bar team makes them so that they’re a meal in and of themselves, garnished with three hefty Baja shrimp. Think of it as brunch in a glass.

INGREDIENTS:

4 oz. clamato juice

½ oz. pickle brine

½ oz. Maggi black sauce

½ oz. lemon juice

3 olives

1 celery stalk

1 lemon slice

3 cooked shrimp

How to Make It: In a tall glass add ice, combine liquid ingredients, and stir. Garnish with skewered olives, celery, lemon slice, and the 3 shrimp.

MEZCALITA

The popularity of mezcal has made margaritas mixed with this agave spirit quite popular, so much so that they have their own name mezcalitas. This one is elevated with the addition of jamaica concentrate, a tart hibiscus drink similar to cranberry juice that lends a lovely color to the cocktail. You can easily find this at Cost Plus World Market or on Amazon. They also infuse the mezcal with rosemary, but regular mezcal works just as well at home.

INGREDIENTS:

1 oz. lemon juice

1 oz. agave syrup

1 ½ oz. jamaica concentrate

1 ½ oz. mezcal Sal de gusano Sprig rosemary

How to Make It: Add everything to the shaker over ice cubes and shake vigorously until a frost forms on the shaker. Strain into a rocks glass garnished with a rim of sal de gusano. Garnish with a slice of lemon and rosemary. Use a match or kitchen torch to smoke the rosemary if desired when presenting, and serve.

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TRAVEL & ESCAPES

Kelly Wearstler has designed one of the chicest cocktail lounges in L.A.

The Proper hotel group has made a name for itself by leveling up the hospitality experience in L.A. and beyond by marrying exceptional design to exquisite food and beverage programming. At the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel, they’ve literally leveled it up at the rooftop restaurant and lounge Cara Cara, with a menu overseen by awardwinning L.A. chef Suzanne Goin, as well as her Caldo Verde, which blends Californian and Spanish culinary traditions. But the easiest way to get a taste of this winning formula is at the hotel’s cocktail lounge Dahlia.

The room is, like the rest of the hotel, imagined beautifully by designer Kelly Wearstler: all rose-colored zellige tile, sumptuous fabrics, cocktail tables, and banquettes, with low-slung furniture dotted throughout the space, creating intimate areas for sipping and

chatting. The wonderful thing about the bar is that there’s no traditional long “bar” per se separating the drinkmaking from the guests. Yes there’s a little marble-topped service bar, but the cocktail cart rolled out tableside is both the right amount of theater and a welcome barrier-breaking flourish. Here you can get little Iberian nibbles you might find in the historic barrios of Madrid: salt cod fritters with saffrontinged aioli, tinned mussels, and grilled prawns. The drinks menu is a combination of refreshed classics, sometimes inflected with Spanish flavor: a Jerez Fizz stars PX sherry and Jerez brandy. The Sidecar is made with Calvados.

While you take a tour of this exquisite space, mix yourself Dahlia’s equally well-considered version of the Old Fashioned and contemplate how upgrading an experience with the finest furnishings and ingredients makes for an immersive cocktail experience that engages all of the senses. Cheers to drinks at Dahlia!

The Dahlia OId Fashioned

The iconic cocktail is ennobled by well-sourced ingredients and expert technique. At Dahlia, the bartenders cold-smoke premium maraschino cherries three times using a bar smoker. You can skip this step, but it makes a subtle and delightful difference at Dahlia.

2 ½ oz. Kaiyo Mizunara Oak Cask Strength Japanese Whiskey

¼ oz. Luxardo cherry syrup

4 dashes Bittercube Cherry Vanilla Bark Syrup

Lemon or orange twist

2 maraschino cherries, preferably Luxardo

In a glass pitcher or shaker filled with ice, combine ingredients and stir 20 times with a spoon or cocktail stirrer. Strain into a lowball glass filled with a single large ice cube. Squeeze citrus peel, skin side down, to express the oils directly into the drink. Garnish with citrus peel and two smoked cherries: one in the drink as a boozy dessert, and then one on a cocktail spear!

Living the in Baja #Vanlife

ROAD TRIPPING IN A VINTAGE VOLKSWAGEN VANAGON INSPIRES NOSTALGIA, AND REKINDLES A LOVE FOR BAJA CALIFORNIA.

Story by KRISTA SIMMONS

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

The Peace Vans make their way along a dirt road to a remote rancho in Baja California Sur. Opposite Page: Cocktails in La Paz at Casamarte. Surfing at Cerritos beach. Campsite in Cabo Pulmo. Oysters from Magdalena Bay.

Y VINTAGE WESTY jounces along the grated road, psychedelic Latin rock blasting as the rustcolored Baja sand dusts my windshield. A burro makes his way along the saguaro-lined highway, and as I grab for my glass bottle of Coca-Cola, I can’t help but feel like a vintage postcard come to life. But even as a seasoned solo traveler with countless trips to Baja under my belt, I’m glad I have a bright yellow van named Schnitzel and our caravan leader Shane Jordan as my North Star.

Our five vintage Vanagons pass through several seasons—from bluebird skies to dense downpours—along our journey toward what to many travelers is still a great unknown. It’s as far away as possible from the raucous Cabo San Lucas, and that’s how we like it. There’s no cell service, and for the first time in a long time, I’m alone with my thoughts in this remote, relatively untouched part of Baja California Sur.

I’m not the only one seeking to slow down and do things the old fashioned way. There’s a real interest in rewinding to simpler times, from the prevalence of vinyl and shooting

on film to the popularity of thrifting at flea markets. It’s only natural that this nostalgia would permeate the world of travel, and there’s no better place to experience it than here.

This zeitgeist is embodied at Escapar a la Baja, an annual vanlife and overlanding gathering now in its sixth year that draws upwards of 20,000 attendees. While the Baja 1000, first started in 1967, may have sparked the interest in driving the massive 760-miles-long state, you no longer have to be a rally racer to experience the magic of the region in the form of a road trip thanks to a Seattle-based company called Peace Vans.

The Pacific Northwest purveyor of pop-up camper van rentals, repairs, and sales is helmed by former Microsoft executive Harley Sitner, who himself fell in love with Baja road tripping over the years. Though many encounter Peace Vans via their popular Instagram account, I was introduced to Sitner while going down the rabbit hole researching camps for Burning Man. It turns out Sitner is a 26-year veteran of the Black Rock City festival in Nevada, and my burnt red van named Columbia had festival park-

ing passes on the window dating back to 1999.

Sitner’s quirky, creative, connector’s spirit sits right in line with some of the old school Burners, and Baja locals too. For his curated trips with Peace Vans, he’s teamed up with Carmen Loeffler and Jordan Bobrowicz, also known as the Bougie Dirtbags, who are not only facilitators of amazing food, but great vibes. We spent our mezcal-fueled nights together around the campfire, waves roaring and hearts full.

“Our Baja program is a huge labor of love for me personally. Our hearts felt called to do it. Over the almost 12 years I’ve been running Peace Vans, I’ve learned that it’s much more than an auto repair shop, more than a camper van company, and more than a rental company,” says Sitner. “We are, literally and figuratively, a way for people to live their best lives through the magic of life on the road.”

The winter of 2023 was the first season for Peace Vans’ Baja road trips, where the company offers both self-guided, six-night itineraries as well as more curated, guided trips with specific focus areas, like whale watching or farm-totable cuisine that you can tack onto your self-drive. We participated in a version of their guided group trips, where vanlifers travel in a caravan of four to six vehicles with support along the way and a unique and special set of activities, experiences, and dining.

Something inside my heart told me it was important to put this program together...

“Something inside my heart told me it was important to put this program together—to create a new set of experiences for folks who are open to a slightly more challenging, and therefore more heart opening, travel experience, but one that is still highly supported and partially curated,” says Sitner.

The magic isn’t in the destination after all; it’s in the journey. Though it’s far from glamping, Peace Vans trips offer the perfect balance, prioritizing magic over efficiency, but still providing the creature comforts that keep you from truly roughing it. The vans come outfitted with all the road-trip-ready amenities you’d need, including fresh water filters with pump attachments for showers, Starlink internet, Sand Cloud beach towels, beach chairs, bug spray, head lamps, and solar-powered lanterns. That’s not to say it’s simple. But working through those challenges, paired dashes of happenstance and kismet, is what makes travel great.

The sheer volume of people who have fallen in love with the state of Baja while road tripping down here is evidenced by bumper stickers you might see on the journey. It’s not uncommon to see signs like “Ask your doctor if Baja is right for you” or “I’d rather be nowhere.” I am now emphatically one of those converts, not-so-secretly plotting my next trip back.

“I passionately believe that it is at these edges where life happens,” says Sitner. And after a lifetime of travel, I couldn’t agree more.

The Itinerary

Here’s how our journey through Baja California Sur unfolded, day by day. Rather than following this word for word, let this serve as a rough road map and jumping point to inspire your own journey in this magical corner of the planet.

An aerial image of the Cabo Pulmo campsite, where our caravan spent its first evening by the sea.

DAY ONE CABO PULMO

After leaving the bustling Cabo San Lucas airport, we headed to the Vista Ballena campsite in Cabo Pulmo, an absolute must-visit for water enthusiasts. This underwater National Park is teeming with marine life and is an excellent spot for snorkeling, diving, and kayaking. After parking our vans at the site, our group headed for a quick dip in the warm waters. It was practically a private beach, with no one around as far as the eye can see.

Over the years, I’ve had some amazing experiences in the area surrounding Cabo Pulmo. While staying at the nearby Four Season Costa Palmas, I went on a spearfishing adventure with local guides, bringing back a catch to enjoy as ceviche. And in the nearby break of Los Barriles, there’s incredible, world-class surf.

Upon returning to the campsite, which also offers casitas and teepees, the Bougie Dirtbags proved how they got their name by preparing an epic seafood feast. We noshed on freshly shucked oysters from Magdalena Bay and a tinned fish board with an assortment of smoked dips and local produce. In the morning, the girls whipped up a savory French toast with morel duxelles, poached eggs, and chili oil, and we did one last dip before heading off.

DAY TWO RANCHO SAN DIONISIO

We packed up our vans and hit the road, but not without stopping at OXXO for my favorite chili and chamoy flavored Mexican sour straws called Squinkles, and our caravan made its way to a palm tree forest in Santiago that looked straight out of The Land Before Time. Then we continued enroute to the biosphere of El Refugio, where we meet Clarence Harrison, who owns and operates this magical regenerative farm called Rancho San Dionisio. Clarence and his

wife Isabella are rehabilitating the farm, which was formerly a cheesemaking ranch in the 1800s, to grow groves of mangoes and avocados and row upon row of greens and squash.

After a brief tour, we make our way down to their private watering hole to cool off. Smooth granite boulders dot the river, which flows through a canyon lushly forested with oversize palm trees. The sounds of flowing water and the wind rushing through the leaves is punctuated by the

occasional chirp of a bird. It’s easy to see why many overlanders and hikers choose this as the starting point for a three-day hike that starts here and runs to Todos Santos.

As for us, we’re on more of a glamping regimen. We make our way back to the vans, and Carmen and Jo are at it again, this time cooking massive tomahawk steaks over a live fire for a long table dinner under an ancient string-lit ficus tree.

Enjoying a meal prepared by the Bougie Dirtbags, complete with produce from the ranch and plenty of local Baja wines.

Carmen and Jo are at it again, this time cooking massive tomahawk steaks over a live fire...

DAY THREE LA PAZ

Driving into the traffic-jammed city is admittedly a bit jarring after being off the grid for a few days. But the friendly valet has all sorts of questions about our Westies, which is something we’ve grown accustomed to on this trip. The amount of curiosity and community these vans inspire is like no other vehicle I’ve ever driven. It’s an instant conversation starter.

While it’s been shockingly comfortable sleeping in a van the past few nights, the plush beds at Baja Club Hotel are a welcome change. We settle in for a cocktail and stroll the Malecón in the evening, taking in the sunset as locals do.

After a bite and a proper shower, we hit the hay and enjoy an early night. In the morning, we head out with Shane Jordan in his restored, WWII era Westy Schnitzel to a private beach near El Tecolote. The water is as warm as the Caribbean, and save for a group of locals riding on horseback with a couple travelers, we didn’t run into a single person on our stretch of sand.

We were famished after our morning swim, and lunch at Casamarte, a Baja-style seafood shack also featured in this issue, couldn’t have come sooner.

PIT STOP: EL TRIUNFO

An absolute muststop on any road trip from La Paz to Todos Santos is the historic mining town of El Triunfo, stopping for lunch at the appropriately named Cafe El Triunfo, where Marcus Spahr, who used to be a baker at San Francisco’s legendary Tartine, has been making delicious woodfired pizzas and baked goods for the masses passing through, hoping to get a taste of old world Mexico. We carboloaded and then headed on to Todos Santos, as we wanted to get to the city before dark.

DAYS FOUR–FIVE

TODOS SANTOS

“The American dream is alive and well in Mexico,” I joked after meeting handfuls of enterprising expats, from creatives and chefs to ceramicists and painters, who have decided to up and move south of the border to this charming surf town. It’d been over five years since I’d revisited, and while the same charm still exists, there are a ton more restaurants and bars cropping up, as well as darling boutique hotels.

A must while in this area is a day at Cerritos beach, one of the only swimmable beaches in the region that also has an excellent surf break fit for beginners. After a surf lesson with Mario Surf School, we stopped by Tasi, a family-owned açaí bowls and coffee and juice bar, before heading to Barracuda’s for the obligatory Baja fish tacos. (They do, in fact, live up to every bit of hype.) We made our way back to our glamping tents at Villa Santa Cruz located right along a perfect surf break. I couldn’t help but roll up the safari tent doors to listen to the waves crash on the shore while getting ready for one last meal with our ragtag caravan crew of what I suspect will be lifelong friends. And that is the magic of a great road trip.

Horseback riding on Cerritos beach; an iconic fish taco moment at Barracuda Cantina; the author catches some shade by the waves.

This month:

Malibu, CA

The insider: Gregory Day, Managing Director, Malibu Beach Inn

STAY

Not to overstate the obvious, but I am quite biased about my recommendation of Malibu Beach Inn

There are very few hotels in the area, but Malibu Beach Inn is the only one with direct ocean access; it’s just 34 steps to the ocean to be exact, and all accommodations have private balconies overlooking the Pacific. After Malibu Beach Inn, I love Surfrider Malibu across the street from the Malibu Pier. The rooms are thoughtfully designed, and they have a nice

Insider

Seasonal diversions and secret travel tips from local experts.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

Gregory Day is the managing director of Malibu Beach Inn and the go-to guy when it comes to where to send guests in this beachside city in the Santa Monica Mountains. Situated on what locals like to call Billionaire’s Beach, the hotel is known to attract the world’s most discerning clientele. And there’s no one better to do so than Day, who’s lived on the Westside for over 20 years. Here, he shares his tips on where to explore while enjoying a weekend along this iconic strip of PCH.

dining and drinks option available to hotel guests only. Nobu Ryokan is also a lovely alternative with a mix of garden and ocean view rooms, and although its minimalist aesthetic is ryokan-inspired, it is every bit luxurious and nemaki robes are not required.

DRINK

Moonshadows ’ beautiful oceanfront location, casual but refined service, and heavy-handed barmen are always a recipe for success. The fairly new Aviator Nation Dreamland is a must-visit venue for live music and local superstar spotting, complemented by a vibrant bar and restaurant scene. And of course, Carbon Beach Club at Malibu Beach Inn has eight consecutive Wine Spectator Awards and a menu balanced with both new and old-world wines — a real

indulgent delight when taking in Malibu’s scenery on the patio.

EAT

Howdy’s Sonrisa Cafe is a great Malibu story. The family’s restaurants were a West L.A. institution for over 40 years, and their Malibu outpost La Salsa sadly closed in 2014. So, Howdy’s return to Malibu after the pandemic was an exciting one, and they are known for their burritos — particularly the ones at breakfast — as well as their bowls and mariscos. Malibu Farm is a terrific casual gem on the historic Malibu Pier, featuring a wide array of organic dishes and juices. Other Sunset favorites include Broad Street Oyster Company and Tony’s Taverna , both staples in the area.

SHOP

The three intertwined

Surfrider Malibu

Malibu Beach Inn

The lineup at one of Malibu’s many

outdoor shopping arcades of Malibu Country Mart , Malibu Village, and the Malibu Lumber Yard have all of the shops one would expect, but I would draw your attention to the Ranch at the Pier. Located at the end of the pier, it’s a lovely collection of things you never knew

you needed, but once spotted, can now never live without, such as vintage wooden smashball sets, old-timey toys from Candylab, and swag from One Gun Ranch in Malibu.

DO

Surfing and hiking are amazing in Malibu,

followed by an afternoon cryotherapy treatment at CURE Spa. Check out Malibu Surf Shack for the best boards and locations depending on your skill level. Escondido Falls and Point Dume Cove are the most popular public hiking trails in the area.

surf spots

Carbon Beach Club

The guest’s only rooftop at Surfrider Malibu

Nobu Ryokan Malibu

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

Having worked at Pebble Beach’s newly remodeled five-star spa for 16 years, Adrea Simmons is not just an expert on beauty and wellness, but also on the local community. The resort and surrounding development, known for having one of the best golf courses in the world, is home to the breathtaking 17-Mile Drive, which winds through magnificent California coastline.

“I love that you get the combination of both the ocean and the forest here,” she says. “It’s quiet and so nature-focused, but you still have great food and a real hometown feel.” Here are her suggestions on what to do in this charming seaside hamlet on the Monterey Peninsula.

STAY

“Cypress Inn was built in 1929, and eventually singer and animal rights activist Doris Day made it the pet-friendliest inn in one of the the pet-friendliest towns in America.

Monte Verde Inn is also so cute and comfy,” she says. And a Sunset favorite is the new Le Petit Pali, a charming BNB that serves the most incredible complimentary breakfast and offers

guests beach cruisers to tool around town.

EAT

“My favorite all-time restaurant is La Balena . It’s farm-to-table Northern Italian. They have an amazing wine list and make all the desserts in house. La Bicyclette has super yummy pizzas, the service is great, and also has a really great wine list. Chez Noir is a Michelin-rated restaurant

This month: Carmel, CA

The insider: Adrea Simmons, Esthetician, Pebble Beach Resorts

that’s a new up-andcomer that all my clients are talking about these days. And Akaoni is a sushi spot that’s super fresh. I love their sashimi.”

DRINK

“The firepits at Spanish Bay outside Roy’s is the best spot to watch the

sunset at Pebble Beach

There’s a bagpiper, and you can request songs. They give you blankets, and you can just cozy up and order apps before dinner. Vesuvio has a rooftop bar with excellent cocktails. There’s a good nighttime scene and you can have dinner too.”

DO

“Point Lobos State Natural Reserve is a perfect forest-ocean combo with beautiful views. You can go for an intense hike, or a low impact walk. Garrapata on the way to Big Sur

is also an amazing hike with vistas. You can go into the forest and see waterfalls.” Closer to town, “Asilomar and Spanish Bay Beach are dog-friendly, there’s good tidepooling and great sunsets. And of course Carmel Beach along 17- Mile Drive is well-worth the admission. You can also rent bikes at Adventures by the Sea and do a tour that way. And if you’re into shopping, check out downtown Carmel along Ocean Ave There’s lots of cute shops, and Carmel Plaza is also worth popping into, too.”

17-Mile Drive

Cypress Inn

Downtown Carmel

WITH THE WORLD’S MOST RENOWNED ARCHAEOLOGISTS

SOUTHWEST

Robin Gavriel is a deep well of information when it comes to the charming old Western town of Ouray. Having lived in Ouray for over 10 years, the avid nature enthusiast is passionate about sharing the love for the city, known for its pristine natural beauty and deep heritage. Here, she shares her insights for what to do when visiting what’s known as the Outdoor Recreation Capital of Colorado.

STAY

The recently renovated Western hotel in Ouray built circa 1891 is “contemporary while still having the feel of the Wild West. The Saloon has a preProhibition art nouveau style back bar” and the in-house restaurant offers “farm-to-table Southwestern-style fare.” You don’t want to miss its “ Grotto Spa hot soaking pool, cold plunge, and sauna.” And at “Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa & Lodgings , the former home of the Native Ute tribal leader and town namesake Chief Ouray, they offer relaxing natural mineral spring soaks and a rock vapor cave known for it’s healing subterranean steam.”

EAT

St. Elmo is home to the subterranean restaurant “ Bon Ton , the original residence and boarding house of Mrs. Kittie Heit, who housed and fed the local miners.” Built in 1889, this spot now serves “delicious Northern Italian food—a tribute to the many Northern Italians who were the first miners in Ouray, bringing hardnecked garlic and Italian dandelion, both of which have naturalized to the area.” Maggie’s Kitchen serves “delicious burgers with meat sourced from

local ranches, salads, sandwiches, and handcut fries.” And at Brick House 737 you’ll find “local farm-to-table dishes and unique cocktails.” And The Ouray Brewery makes excellent “hand-crafted beers, soups, sandwiches, and salads.”

DRINK

Ourayle House Brewery is “conveniently located next to Maggie’s Kitchen for your combined drinking and eating pleasures with great town and mountain views. Sauvage Spectrum Wine Lounge offers local wines by the glass. And Gray Tavern specializes in making its

own beer, for a noteworthy drinking experience.”

SHOP

This month: Ouray, Colorado

The insider: Robin Gavriel, Spa Supervisor, The Western

Humble Mountain has “unique handmade local items—everything from jewelry to furniture. Columbine Mineral Shop is “a purveyor of rock and gem specimens.” Gator Emporium offers a plethora of handmade gifts, mineral and animal specimens, and beads,” and the The Shaggy Coo has “unique Colorado-made, Western-style jewelry, clothing, and home decor.

DO

The Ouray Alchemist Museum “is an essential,

with locally sourced alchemy and apothecary items, including medicines from a bygone era.”

Visit Ouray Hot Springs or Box Cañon Falls Park & Nature Center, a “hiking trail with a tunnel and

amazing waterfall.” And at the Baby Bathtubs Trail hike, which can be done through Basecamp Ouray, there are “bathtub-shaped pools carved out of stone with magical views.”

Ouray Hot Springs

Basecamp Ouray

The Western

TRAVEL

101 Visit Oceanside

102 Archaeological Paths

103 The Resort at Paw’s Up

104 Jackson Hole

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Extreme Elopements

Iver Marjerison, owner of Colorado MicroWeddings, shares his insights on the emerging trend of exchanging vows outdoors.

Interview by KRISTA SIMMONS

Iver Marjerison is a micro wedding officiant and planner who offers one-stop shop elopement packages for small weddings in the great outdoors. He’s helped over five hundred couples plan their special days, ranging from simple mountaintop vow exchanges to dog-sledding adventure elopements. Here, he shares his insights into how to plan an extreme event without a hitch.

Why is Colorado the perfect location for an adventurebased wedding?

Colorado offers a near-endless variety of scenic mountain environments, lakes, forests, and wildlife. But what really sets Colorado apart is the accessibility. With so many different beautiful mountain towns, each rocking their own plethora of lodging, dining, and activities, it’s easy for couples from all over the country to fly into Denver, rent a car, and be in the heart of the Rocky Mountains within a couple hours. Colorado also boasts 300 days of sunshine!

Where is the craziest location you have ever planned a wedding, and what were some of the challenges and workarounds?

Mountaintop helicopter weddings are by far the most challenging. The helicopter can’t stop at the top due to

“ W E’RE REALLY LUCKY THAT THE NATURAL BACKDROPS AND FEATURES MAKE IT SO THE COUPLES RARELY FEEL THE NEED TO DECORATE AT ALL.”

disruptive noises and music, feeding of wildlife, and situations where the wedding group essentially monopolizes an entire area. In some cases, this can actually create conflict between multiple wedding parties over who was at the spot first. My advice: If you have more than six guests, book a designated private picnic area or overlook for the ceremony.

concerns of the engine not being able to restart in the extreme cold, so the couple, photographer, videographer, and officiant all have to jump out a few feet while the helicopter hovers. They do the ceremony and the photos and radio the helicopter for pickup when they’re done. The whole process is dependent on perfect flying conditions that can come and go almost instantly, so it’s not like a regular wedding on a set day at a set time. The couple and my team have to block off a 3-hour window on 3 consecutive days and essentially just be oncall for the perfect weather.

What is one trend in outdoor weddings you wish would go away?

Appropriate guest counts and responsible usage of public land are big issues for weddings. Many of the locations used for small outdoor weddings are national forests, and rarely is anyone around to regulate or enforce any kind of rules. True elopements, with just a few people, have almost no impact when done responsibly and in accordance with Leave No Trace principles. But over the last couple years, group sizes have gotten larger; it’s not uncommon to see a group of 30 “eloping” at a scenic overlook. With these larger groups, you often see irresponsible off-trail usage, decorations that end up blowing away, garbage,

How can people be more conscious of wedding waste? There are so many decorations that end up in landfills. With the weddings we do, we’re really lucky that the natural backdrops and features make it so the couples rarely feel the need to decorate at all. I’ve been hiking and scouting locations across the state for years to find the perfect ceremony sites that offer a natural sort of focus point for the couple. Whether it’s between a couple trees or up on a rock ledge, we let nature do the decorating for us.

My advice: If you are going to decorate, be sure to avoid anything that can blow away — and certainly do not throw confetti or flower petals on public land. After the wedding, if you have stuff left over, look for a “recycled” weddings group on Facebook. Lots of couples would be happy to repurpose your decor.

What is the one thing people usually forget when it comes to planning a wedding outdoors?

Lighting, lighting, lighting. I always tell my couples, we can do a wedding anytime of the day, but if you want awesome photos, you need awesome lighting! For an outdoor wedding, that means sunrise or an hour-ish before sunset. These times change throughout the year and also change based on where you are in the mountains, so there are a lot of moving pieces to consider and fine-tune.

Iver Marjerison officiates an intimate wedding in Rocky Mountain National Park.

The west rim is heart-pounding, soul-searching, bucket-list-checking adrenaline rushes you’ve never felt or seen before, including one of the largest glass cantilever bridges in the world that will have you stepping 4,000 feet out over the Grand Canyon floor. Skywalk is just one of the ways you can jolt your senses and ignite your spirit at Grand Canyon West. Plan your adventure today.

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