Sunset Garden 2022

TH E GAR D E N I S S U E

Savor Spring

DREAM

FLOWER FARM G E TA WA Y

154

inspiring ways to plant, gather, and grow PERFECT YOUR PATIO HOUSEPLANT HACKS FAST FRESH RECIPES EASY EXOTIC AIR PLANT DISPLAYS

The Ultimate

DIY RAISED BED

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2/24/22 11:03 AM

CONTENTS GARDEN ISSUE

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Editor’s Letter On the evolution of our garden.

5

An air plant lantern created by Josh “Airplantman” Rosen

Best of the West Phoenix’s hottest travel

destinations; iridescent flowers; snail mail.

Home & Garden

11

Seaside Heights For Tess Sanchez and her husband, actor Max

Greenfield, renovating a

house with ocean views was a family adventure.

18

More Than a Memory A Newport Beach couple

transforms their family home with midcentury heirlooms and mementos from their travels across the globe.

26

Plant Magic A visit to the garden of

“Airplantman” Josh Rosen is a treat for the eyes and soul.

34

Checklist What to do in your garden now. Plus the five types of

seeds to plant this spring.

38

Ultimate Raised Bed What if you could build a raised bed with all the accoutrements a city

gardener could ever want?

Food & Drink

41

West Coast Flair Pitmaster Matt Horn’s

61

monumental new cookbook

48

THOMAS J. STORY

Photograph by TH O MAS J. STO RY

Friends & Family James Beard Award-winning chef Brady Ishiwata Williams pays tribute to his Japanese grandmother at Seattle restaurant Tomo.

96

Van Life for Everyone Dave Ramsay and Matt Felser are on a mission to make mobile living accessible.

farm, and one of America’s

floral brunch.

52

Voices of the West

Poblanos into a lavender

make—and grow—your own

Los Poblanos inn and farm in Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, New Mexico

With deep respect for the Rio family transformed Los

Winslow teaches you how to

ON THE COVER

Field of Dreams Grande Valley, the Rembe

Edible flower expert Cassie

Seasonal diversions from local experts.

redefine the sport.

68

Insider and secret travel tips

Nearly four decades after its Black rodeo continues to

mouthwatering West Coast

Breakfast in Bloom

Riding Forward founding, the West’s oldest

is a lesson in how to make barbecue.

86

Travel & Escapes

most outstanding inns.

80

Get Out There Join a Camp Yoshi trip and discover more than just an outdoor adventure.

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Plants, Paint, and Patience CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER

My first paying job was a brief summer stint as a sort of gardener. I say “sort of” because I now know what real gardeners do and what I did was mostly not garden. It was my grandparents’ year to maintain the grassy median on their cul-desac and they needed someone to mow it and wage an ongoing battle with gophers that kept undermining a brick retaining wall. Taking breaks I’d sneak onto the adjacent golf course and marvel at its unlikely expanse of green. But it was the wild in-between spaces that drew me. A mess of fallen trees in the graveyard next door that nobody ever visited but where all the birds hung out and the David Newsom of Wild Yards Project plants buckgophers went to play. At the end of the summer, I wheat, California sages, and ancient ferns in a naended up with a little money in my pocket and scent native habitat garden. respect for anyone who could keep a plot of any size looking tailored against the push and pull of domesticated nature. It took me 30 years to tackle the job myself and graduate from sort of gardener to someone who actually grows things.

After 20 years of passively watching the plants and grass grow at my Spanish bungalow in Los Angeles, I have a newly installed garden that I’ve committed to tending myself. I’ve joined the growing cadre of folks transforming their yards into native habitats. In theory, my former lawn is now the beginnings of a pollinator-friendly space with arboreal shelter for migratory birds, wellplaced boulders and driftwood for worms, and water to quench the thirst of nocturnal wildlife.

For now there are winks of color that will hopefully bloom against a new paint job picked by color consultant Teresa Grow of paint and wallpaper firm Madison and Grow. Someone once told me she can find the color a house always wanted to be, and they were right. She worked with our plant palette to arrive at a dusky, handsome hue at the low end of green and gray and brown that’s primeval. “For the plants to look their best, I want the house to disappear,” she says. And so it does, the recessive register of light a sympatico backdrop for the subtle beauty of fuzzy California sages, dusty Dudleya born in Baja, buckwheat from the Channel Islands, the laddered kelly green of Woodwardia fimbriata ferns. A plant poem chosen by landscape design firm Terremoto co-founder David Godshall and David Newsom, who runs the Wild Yards Project in L.A. to rewild domestic and shared spaces with plants that used to call our city home.

After heavy rains a Mexican sage plant punched through the mulch, showing its resilient self 20 years after we planted it. I asked Godshall and Newsom what I was supposed to do. It wasn’t native.

They had the same answer: “You tell me. You’re the gardener now.” And so I join in my little way an infinite array of people who find joy in literally grappling with the botanical, several of whom grace these pages. In this issue you’ll read about Josh “Airplantman” Rosen who installs alien walls of Tillandsia; the Rembe family who run the stately hacienda, hotel, and lavender farm Los Poblanos outside of Albuquerque, New Mexico; an author who works flowers into brunch; and the urban wood shop that makes raised beds for folks with small spaces. There are many ways to garden, and no matter what form it takes, as our gardens grow we do, too.

—Hugh Garvey, E D ITO R-I N - CH I E F

Michael A. Reinstein

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Hugh Garvey CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Wilson PHOTO EDITOR

Christine Bobbish STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Thomas J. Story

SENIOR EDITOR

Kristin Scharkey DIGITAL EDITOR

Jennifer Konerman SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR

Latheleene Brown

CONTRIBUTING HOME & DESIGN EDITOR

Christine Lennon

CONTRIBUTING GARDEN EDITOR

Deanna Kizis

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Magdalena O’Neal

DIGITAL PRODUCER/NEWSLETTER EDITOR

Nicole Clausing STAFF WRITER

J. D. Simkins

LIFESTYLE CONTRIBUTOR

Camille Styles

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Jamie Elliott

VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL INITIATIVES

Matt Gross

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Navpreet Sekhon Sales SVP, MEDIA SOLUTIONS

Mort Greenberg VP, PARTNERSHIPS

Kathleen Craven HEAD OF TRAVEL

Pamela Coffey HEAD OF OUTDOOR

Kristi Rummel

SVP, REVENUE OPERATIONS

Kelly Facer

DIRECTOR OF AD OPERATIONS

Mindy Morgan

ACCOUNT MANAGER

Cammeo Murray Marketing CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Stephen Kamifuji

HEAD OF CUSTOM EVENTS

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For assistance with your Sunset subscription, call 1-800-777-0117.

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SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

Sunset Media International Corporation BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Tom Griffiths Graydon Sheinberg

VP, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT & CIRCULATION

Shawn Byers

THOMAS J. STORY

Tracy Seng

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BEST

OF T H E

WEST

LOCAL NOMAD To say owner Lau-

ren Danuser (center) curates a

thoughtful collection of wares in

this boutique is an understatement.

We could spend all day perusing the loose leaf teas,

soft throws, array

of handcrafted ceramics, and more.

LOCALNOMADSHOP.COM

Phoenix Rising

Arizona’s capital is brimming with hip spots to explore.

Story by KRI STI N SCHARKE Y • Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

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↑

↗

→

Known around town for

Founder Michael Lanier

This restaurant (plus

rovers” and “breadosau-

architect Coby Bruckner

weekend bar) bills itself

THE DINERSAUR vanilla custard “churrus” pastries shaped

like—you guessed it—di-

nosaurs, baker Olivia Girard churns out all the

sweet treats you could dream up at this new

outpost. Get there early

as daily confections are first come, first served!

THEDINERSAUR.COM

PUEBLO

VALENTINE

and resident landscape just finished building a

pair of courtyard greenhouses and lounge

seating so anyone can

work in the garden during coffee hours when

Caffio Espresso, which operates out of a re-

stored Piaggio Ape cart, is slinging lattes under

coffee shop, bakery, and as “new Arizona cuisine,” and the menu backs up that self-assessment: You can savor elote

pasta or down-to-earth treats like Sonoran

wheat croissants. We

recommend toasting

with a Cactus Martini.

VALENTINEPHX.COM

string lights. PUEBLO.LIFE

Rise

Where to Stay NO MATTER YOUR STYLE, THERE’S A HOTEL FOR YOU IN THE PHOENIX AREA.

IF YOU CARE ABOUT INSTAGRAM:

IF YOU’RE A BIT NOSTALGIC:

IF YOU WANT TO SPEND YOUR TIME GOLFING:

Rise

Hotel Valley Ho

Mountain Shadows Resort Scottsdale

Colorful, patterned wallpapers anchor

Bing Crosby and

hip Phoenix hotel

quented this retro

the rooms at this with a pool and

Mountain Shadows Resort Scottsdale

6

rooftop bar. RISEUPTOWNHOTEL.COM

SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

Zsa Zsa Gabor fre-

Play 18 holes or take

hotel that recently

view of Camelback

got a facelift.

HOTELVALLEYHO.COM

a dip in the pool in Mountain.

MOUNTAINSHADOWS.COM

The New Bloom

A Los Angeles botanical artist is turning iridescent flowers into works of art.

Story by D EAN NA KIZ I S

A few years ago, pop star Katy Perry reached out to Los Angeles botanical artist Kristen Alpaugh to say that she was interested in purchasing a unique flower arrangement. So, Alpaugh did what any self-respecting businesswoman would do when a huge celebrity sends an inquiry: “I literally started Googling what she likes,” Alpaugh says.

“Like, ‘What flowers does she love? What does she hate?’

And I realized that she was obsessed with iridescence.”

Around the same time, Alpaugh had been gifted an abalone shell. She soon connected the dots that Anthurium—a plant from the Andes Mountain range in South America with stiff, shell-like leaves that we think of as flowers— could act as a canvas. Alpaugh’s apartment “became a laboratory,” she says, comparing herself to a mad scientist, and her trademarked painted flowers—irithurium—were born.

Since then, Alpaugh has become a celebrity florist with the likes of Lady Gaga and singer-songwriter SZA as clients. So, how are irithurium made, exactly? Alpaugh isn’t saying what her process is, and has applied for a patent—a very mad scientist move. “I can just tell you that they are individually hand-painted,” she says. “Every single stem is different. They are waterproof. They won’t bleed. They don’t smudge.”

Alpaugh is part of a delicious dichotomy that’s currently taking place in floral design: On the one hand, we have flower farmers like Washington’s Floret Farms, who harken back to simpler times and celebrate flowers like dahlias. On the other hand, there’s a generation of florists like Alpaugh who are less of the farm, and more of the city.

And while one might be turned off by the idea of painted flowers, Alpaugh isn’t apologizing, nor should she. As she said on HBO Max’s Full Bloom (she was a contestant in season one), she’s an artist.

GET YOUR OWN

ALPAUGH: DAVID KATZINGER; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF HAUS OF STEMS

Want to see irithurium for yourself? They can be ordered at HAUSOFSTEMS.COM

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

7

We Miss Snail Mail

Let your closest friends, your local stationery store, and your mailman know you’re rooting for them with cards made by our favorite small presses.

Story by CH RI STI N E LE N N O N

DAHLIA PRESS

Seattle Introducing some modern irreverence and graphic punch to the age-old letterpress technique, these paper goods have a modern P.O.V. A monthly subscription box delivers all of the seasonal cards your heart desires.

DAHLIAPRESS.COM

Missoula, Montana Printing cute cards with grizzly bears and camper vans appears to be a dream gig.

Founders Taylor Valliant and Amy Dolan have been running this shop—elevating the Montana souvenir, and procuring vintage Western-themed postage for custom invitations—since 2008. NOTEWORTHYSTORE.COM

EGG PRESS

Portland Saturated colors, cartoonish graphics, and plenty of puns round out this collection of cards. Buy from a “press for change” collection, and a portion of proceeds are donated to nonprofits. EGGPRESS.COM

FOLIO PRESS AND PAPERIE

Santa Barbara, California Looking for Cali-coastalthemed stationery, postcards, and gift cards that aren’t the least bit dorky? Folio's got boxed note cards printed with everything from an elegant octopus to a halved avocado to appeal to Golden State residents and tourists alike. The cute shop, just a few blocks from the beach, is a must-visit if you’re in town, and it stocks everything from house-made coasters to candles, soaps, and books.

FOLIOPRESSANDPAPERIE.COM

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SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

MISSIVE

San Francisco This small Bay Area outfit founded by Lisa Willis in 2009 creates elegant handcrafted cards and channels gentility through its collections. Willis' beveled note cards with simple font and terrazzo-pattern paper envelope linings are our favorites. MISSIVEPRESS.COM

DAHLIA PRESS FROM LEFT: KRISTA WELCH CREATIVE; STEPHANIE CLARKE; BOTTOM LEFT: © LERINA WINTER/@LERINAWINTERPHOTO

NOTEWORTHY PAPER & PRESS

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2/17/22 11:14 AM

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2/17/22 11:18 AM

HOME

&

GARDEN

Seaside Heights

For Tess Sanchez and her husband, actor Max Greenfield, renovating a snug, three-bedroom house on a hill with views of the Pacific was a family bonding adventure.

Story by CH RI STI N E LE N N O N Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

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“ I WAS HOME

all the time, for the first time. My kids didn’t know what to do with me,” says Tess Sanchez, a Los Angeles-based mother of two and longtime talent and casting executive for a major studio in town. “I got laid off at the beginning of quarantine in 2020. And I’m not good with idle time.”

You could say that Sanchez took on the project of remodeling a neglected and odd house in the Pacific Palisades, turning a cramped, dark space into a haven of natural light and beautiful textures, as a very exclusive hobby. While other people struggled to learn Italian, Sanchez designed a

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SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

deck extension and toured marble yards with her builder via FaceTime. Some people got into jigsaw puzzles. Sanchez became an amateur construction forewoman.

“I’ve always been a big watcher of interior design and trends. It’s always interested me. Just to have a blank palette and free rein to create a vision I saw in my head,” says Sanchez. “But I hadn’t done a project of that scale before.”

At least half of the battle, when it comes to reimagining unappealing houses, is to be able to see through the limitations to find the potential.

“You wouldn’t believe this place before. It was weird,” Sanchez says, producing “before” photos on her phone as evidence. “There was a mural painted on the side of it. I don’t think the neighbors were sad to see that go.”

Tess Sanchez opted for Design Within Reach bar stools and Jenni Kayne sheepskins to complement a wood bench from The Hängar in Santa Monica.

She opened up the kitchen by replacing closed cabinets with floating shelves. A perfectly veined marble slab lended itself to both the counters and walls.

Without changing much of the footprint, Sanchez created the illusion of space, choosing a limited palette of white, cream, and beige and opening up the kitchen—replacing closed cabinets with floating shelves, and adding a couple of windows to let in the light. When she found a perfectly veined and elegant marble slab via the aforementioned FaceTime with the builders from K&M Contractors, she decided on the spot to buy the whole thing. Instead of limiting it to just the work surfaces, she extended the stone from the counters up to the top of the kitchen walls. Some of the property’s more charming original details, like seashell and tile mosaics inlaid in the cement walkways, were left alone.

“The original owner was a songwriter,” she says. “There is a piano keyboard in the walkway on the side of the house.”

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A Maidenhome bed sits snugly in the primary bedroom, where Cedar & Moss sconces and a wooden surfboard add contemporary seaside vibes.

In the living area, the family gathers around the brick fireplace, plus a RH sofa and coffee table.

Many items are from The Hängar.

“Walk through [the shop] and look carefully,” Sanchez says.

“There are real gems.” The owner “has an interesting eye and great price points.”

The layout of this vacation home is typical of many hillside dwellings in L.A., with a primary bedroom (positioned to enjoy the view) and living area on the first floor, and two bedrooms and a bathroom on the lower level. Sanchez came up with a strategy that allows them to fit visiting family and friends into a 1,500-square-foot house: The guest room has a queen-size bed and an extra daybed. The kids’ room has two sets of double built-in bunk beds.

“K&M executed everything I wanted with such artistry. I gave them a sketch and they made it happen. I’m so decisive. A lot of people waffle on stains or wood or marble.

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SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

[The builder] would show me three options and I’d pick one, and I never looked back,” she says.

For the most part, the division of labor in the house is clear. Greenfield is the artist in the family, who paints and plays music on the side, when he isn’t acting in television shows like The Neighborhood and New Girl, which ran until 2018. But Sanchez says he also has a great sense of proportion, and knows when a room feels “off.”

“We are not afraid to move the furniture around,” says Sanchez. “Max can walk into a room and sense immediately if the flow isn’t right.”

Sanchez and Greenfield share a drink on the patio.

“We love to watch the sunset in the evenings, or have coffee on the deck in the morning,” she says.

BOTTOM: CORAL VON ZUMWALT

Design Within Reach furniture creates an inviting outdoor living space for Sanchez and her family.

In another area of the deck, white RH patio furniture offers a lighter, more meditative atmosphere. Rejuvenation sconces complete the look.

To accommodate visiting family and friends in the 1,500-square-foot house, Sanchez added two sets of double builtin bunk beds in the kids’ room.

Plenty of time spent watching home renovation shows has given Sanchez a taste for a “big reveal,” but her plans are often thwarted by logistics. “I love a good ‘unveiling,’ but I can’t lift as much as he can,” she jokes. “Sometimes I have to ask for his help moving something, so there are no surprises.”

Sanchez’s list of new hobbies might expand to house-flipper, if and when her real estate agent friend can talk her into putting this retreat on the market. For now, the family is enjoying their quiet weekends, walking to the beach across the only footbridge in the Palisades that leads right to Will Rogers State Historic Park.

“We love to watch the sunset in the evenings, or have coffee on the deck in the morning, and then we walk to the beach and spend the majority of the day there,” she says. “We come home for lunch, play with the kids. Chill and play board games at night and order in. It’s such an oasis.”

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MOR E THAN A

A NEWPORT BEACH COUPLE TRANSFORMS THEIR TINY TREEHOUSE INTO A FAMILY HOME THAT SEAMLESSLY BLENDS INDOOROUTDOOR LIVING WITH VINTAGE HEIRLOOMS AND MEMENTOS FROM THEIR TRAVELS. Story by KRI STI N SCHARKE Y Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY Sunset pg. 18

M E M OR Y

TRENDS COME

AND

GO,

BUT MEMORIES CAN LAST

A LIFETIME. That’s how Jeff Robson and Nadia Barienbrock approached the redesign of their Southern California home.

When the couple initially moved into the cottage set entirely above their garage, they knew it would eventually be a teardown. But in the years before their family doubled in size, they cozied up in what felt like a treehouse, often entertaining in a large front yard.

Fast forward a few years: With no room for a crib within the 800-square-foot footprint (“unless it was in our living room,” Barienbrock quips), the Newport Beach couple moved out and started brainstorming. They needed more space but wanted to honor the integrity of the 1930s home, a structure with windows on every wall. They wanted to incorporate the outdoor living they’d become accustomed to; they knew exactly where the property got the best light and views. And they wanted to do it themselves.

At the time, Barienbrock worked as the head apparel designer for action sports companies Vans and Hurley. Robson worked in architectural sales with a background in landscape design. So, he learned the design programs to sketch out a 3-D floor plan and exterior rendering before bringing the ideas to local architect William Guidero, who brought the designs to life. Like many lots close to the beach in Newport, this one had limited space. They drew up a U-shaped home that extended nearly the length of the long, narrow lot with floor-to-ceiling slid“I wanted to have ers on three interior walls, creattwo living rooms from the begining a secluded courtyard that still ning,” says Nadia allowed for indoor-outdoor living Barienbrock. She with privacy. and Robson listen The result is a 4,500-squareto records in the foyer, while a famifoot family home that’s warm and ly room features inviting, where the courtyard an oversized secfirepit feels as much a part of the tional for lounging. living space as the foyer’s vintage sofa reupholstered in Ralph LauA tapestry hangs ren fabric. Midcentury pieces above a bed in the abound, from the living room cofguest room. fee table built by Barienbrock’s late architect grandfather to the Equipale chairs watercolor paintings he completed and an oak table during the Depression while out of anchor the dining work. They didn’t want to create room with a woven pendant and haman environment where guests mock from a trip might walk in and feel like they to Mexico. couldn’t touch anything; they

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

21

wanted materials and furnishings that could age.

Custom cabinetry in the kitchen features natural walnut with cast brass hardware. Hand-hammered railing climbs up the stairway, inspired by lived-in, weathered banisters. Barienbrock started bringing home trinkets from her travels after many visits to her grandparents’ household where the shelves were lined with “the most beautiful, interesting things,” each with a story. Baskets soon turned into Moroccan rugs turned into the cluster of glass pendants now hung in the stairwell, originally found on a vacation in Mexico.

“Every time Jeff and I go somewhere, we’ll pick up something that’s really meaningful that we want to hand down,” Barienbrock says.

She wanted to make sure the house didn’t become a project to “keep redoing as an interior designer every couple years.” The quilts from a trip to India that now cover the beds of 6-year-old Jasper and 4-year-old Oona “have memories attached,” she says. “They make you smile. It’s not something that you look at, like why did I follow that trend?” In the same way, they wanted the house to grow up with the kids; not to be designed around the immediate needs of their young family. A long hallway upstairs that creates a wide separation between the kids’ bedrooms and their parents’ was “intentional” in anticipation of teenage years, says Barienbrock, who now works as the lead designer for Orange County-based Prairie Interiors.

Outside, Robson designed and installed all the drought-tolerant An African mask is landscaping featuring only Calijust one of many fornia native plants. Catalina irontreasures shipped wood trees surround the firepit, home from the along with native ferns and edibles family’s travels. like native strawberry and mint.

Robson says he wanted plants that Oona, 4 (left), and the kids could “get their hands in,” Jasper, 6, read an approach they echoed with the books on a bed outfitted with a interior. Ultimately, that means quilt from their you can find young Jasper with paparents’ trip to per and crayons in hand in virtualIndia. ly any corner of the house, from the custom concrete countertops In the master bedto the cushions surrounding the room, the couple firepit. Two outdoor lounge chairs paired vintage there are covered in stylish removlamps and tables with raw linen able covers—a comfortable perch bedding and a tapfor a budding artist who may color estry brought outside the lines, from parents home from a trip. with an eye for design details that will withstand the test of time.

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SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

“ W E WA N T E D IT TO

FEEL MORE LIK E

A HANDMADE H O U S E .”

Robson (left) and Barienbrock work in their office just across the hallway from the master bedroom.

A concrete tub, woven pendant, and white plaster walls set the mood in the master bathroom.

The kitchen features handmade Moroccan tile and Ashley Norton hardware, plus Wolf and Sub-Zero appliances.

A cozy courtyard in the back of the home features an outdoor shower and hot tub.

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

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A VISIT TO THE FANTASTICAL, TILLANDSIA-DRAPED GARDEN OF “AIRPLANTMAN” JOSH ROSEN IS A TREAT FOR THE EYES AND THE SOUL. Story by D EAN NA KIZ I S Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

SU NSET PAGE 2 6

Rosen has the calm demeanor of a young, hip monk. When I enter his garden studio in Mar Vista, California, he greets me with blue eyes that are calm and clear and a gentle smile under a beard well-trimmed. He offers tea or water, then a comfortable but stylishly vintage chair so we can talk. Once seated, his sweet boxer/pit bull mix, Elliot, comes up for some pets, and I can immediately feel my pulse start to quiet—no small feat considering the traffic I’d just faced on the 405.

As I marvel at how zen I feel in Rosen’s presence, I wonder if it’s because he was a philosophy major at Northwestern University, but I soon conclude it must be the air plants. After all, Rosen is known, like some kind of a botanical rock star, by the moniker “Airplantman,” and we’re surrounded by so many Tillandsia that they look like his green-haired groupies.

To my left, a large Tillandsia latifolia spills out of a hoop, while just behind Rosen’s head, a cluster of Tillandsia aeranthos ‘Minuette’ dances from a simple wire. Nearby, a small Tillandsia crocata boasts a single, fragrant bloom, and Tillandsia ionantha and Tillandsia stricta strike poses in his “Airplantman” lanterns, which have misters inside that give them an almost science-fiction-like glow. Perhaps it’s no surprise, then, that one of the lanterns was recently used on a set for the Paramount+ series Star Trek: Picard. “They wanted a courtyard to look futuristic,” Rosen says, “so I took that as a compliment.”

With over 100 air plant species in his backyard alone, Rosen is a natural-born collector, and when he clapped eyes on his first air plant at a nursery in Hawaii, to say he was love struck is an understatement. “Air plants are so charismatic,” Rosen says. “They’ve got these weird shapes, and they look like aliens from another planet. I was like, ‘I need to get as many of these as I can.’”

Once Rosen moved to Los Angeles to become a landscape architect (his firm is called Studio Grey Green), he found he had to justify how many air plants he had so he started a business. Nine years later, he now does custom installations for businesses like the London Hotel, Quicksilver, and Starbucks, while residents in L.A. and as far away as Singapore hire him to create living air plant walls.

While we discuss the fantastical appeal of air plants, which by their very name at least seem to survive on thin air

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SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

In the courtyard of his California studio, “Airplantman” Josh Rosen works amid a botanical wonderland—not to mention a feast for the eyes—filled with hand-strung Tillandsia lanterns that glow with LED lights at night, and custom air plant frames and “gallery walls.”

alone, I’m reminded of this quote from The Secret Garden by Frances Hodgson Burnett: “Magic is always pushing and drawing and making things out of nothing. Everything is made out of magic, leaves and trees, flowers and birds, badgers and foxes and squirrels and people. So it must be all around us. In this garden—in all the places.”

I mention the quote to Rosen, and he allows that The Secret Garden is, in fact, a favorite book, and the passage apt. “I love [the magical quality of] air plants—their wild, waving arms, their stunning variety,” he says. “Losing yourself in creativity, especially in collaboration with plants, brings a powerful sense of magic.

“Air plants have a likeness to us, too,” he adds. “Particularly due to their refusal to be earthbound. They really do look like they could get up and walk away.”

But I have a confession to make: I struggle to keep these little buggers alive. Fortunately, Rosen agrees to act as my own personal support group.

“Talking people through what went wrong is a good way to learn,” he says.

Read on for his care and maintenance tips.

1

4

Air of Distinction

JOSH ROSEN HAS CRACKED THE CODE FOR SHOWING OFF AIR PLANTS LIKE LIVING WORKS OF ART. ORDER A DISPLAY AT AIRPLANTMAN.COM

1

A custom “gallery wall” features an air

plant frame, steel

hoop “sconce,” and

air plants resting in a wood and steel

2

Hand-strung concentric

rings create a

Tillandsia lantern

with an optional LED light and mister.

FROM $250

mesh tray that Rosen uses for storage.

$120 FOR SCONCE; CUSTOM WALL ORDER BY REQUEST.

30

SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

3

In these trav-

ertine air plant vessels, the

wire slides out of the base so you can

soak your air plant

without touching it with your fingers.

FROM $45

4

An air plant

frame is made of powder-

coated aluminum

and nylon-coated stainless steel

strings. The entire frame can be

dunked in water, then dried and

rehung. FROM $180

5

Japanese

kokedama, or

moss balls, in-

spired this felted

wool air plant holder.

CUSTOM ORDER BY REQUEST.

6

Tillandsia aeranthos ‘Minu-

ette’ grows on

a simple wire; on a

trip to Mexico, Rosen observed them

growing like this on telephone lines.

12-GAUGE GALVANIZED STEEL WIRE, HOME DEPOT, $2.48

2

3

5

6

GUTTER CREDIT

“There’s definitely a misunderstanding that these plants don’t need care,” Rosen says, “but there are tricks to keeping them alive.”

Air Plant Care 101

Air plants are native to the Americas and use their roots to anchor themselves to trees, rocks, and even cacti thorns—without being parasitic. But despite the fact that they’re called air plants, they do need water and nutrients, which are absorbed via special scales on their leaves called trichomes. Here are Josh Rosen’s top tips to keep them alive:

Air plants thrive outdoors, but if you want to keep them inside, make

sure they have bright, indirect light.

Keep in mind that Tillandsia with gray leaves are more sun- and

desert-adapted, while the ones with greener, wider leaves are more shade-adapted.

Rather than misting, give them a

six- to 12-hour soak once a week.

“I’ve hardened mine off with tap

water, but ideally, you’d use filtered but not distilled water,” Rosen says.

After, make sure they have enough air circulation to dry completely.

If you, like me, find your air plant

turns yellow and falls to pieces af-

ter a deep soak, it’s because it was already unhappy. “A shorter soak would have been better to revive it,” Rosen says.

Open a window—air plants love fresh air.

GUTTER CREDIT

Don’t handle your air plants too

much; the trichomes can react to the oils in your skin.

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

33

YOUR

Warm weather is here. What to do in your garden now.

Story by D EAN NA KIZ I S Photograph by LI SA RO M E RE I N

©LOTUSLAND. RIZZOLI NEW YORK, 2022. PHOTOGRAPHS © LISA ROMEREIN.

SPR ING GARDEN CHECKLIST

Anyone who’s ever visited the botan-

ic garden Ganna Walska Lotusland,

which is situated on a formerly private estate in Montecito, California, knows that it was created by a true original.

“Madame” Ganna Walska was born in Poland, married a Russian baron,

toured as an opera singer, married five more times, became a widely known spiritual seeker, and spent 43 years

creating one of the most unique public botanic gardens in the world.

Spread over 37 acres, Lotusland is

not merely home to more than 3,400 types of plants—including at least

35,000 individual specimens—it in-

spires a sense of unfettered wonder in all who visit. “Lotusland resonates with

people because there’s this fantastical nature to the garden, coupled with a very vital and dynamic plant collection that’s displayed like nowhere

else,” says Rebecca Anderson, the garden’s executive director.

The whimsy she speaks of is every-

where: A true collector, Walska popu-

lated the gardens with fountains made of large clamshells, a lion sculpture

with a tangle of Spanish moss for hair, and commedia dell’arte-style grotesques that populate the Theater

Garden like naughty woodland sprites.

The plantings themselves belie her

unique sensibilities, as well. From the Bromeliad Garden, which includes a

rare bromeliad that produces edible

fruit, to the repetition of golden barrel cactus in front of the estate, Walska

was known to employ respected land-

scape architects like Lockwood de Forest, Jr. to help her, but only insofar as

she wanted to be helped. “In the end,”

Anderson says, “she was the artist with the paintbrush.”

“Had she played by the rules of tra-

ditional design or kept to herself when people told her the rights and the

wrongs of how to approach this property,” Anderson continues, “it never would have been as wonderful.”

Reservations for Lotusland can be made by calling 805-969-9990, or online at lotusland.org.

GET THE BOOK

Lotusland by photographer Lisa Romerein with foreword by Marc Appleton, from Rizzoli. $60; rizzoliusa.com GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

35

Superlative Seeds

Quin Shakra started as a produce farmer, but when he toured a farm in Southern Oregon and saw plants that had gone to seed, he found his true calling. “I realized I had a desire to understand the whole life cycle of the plant from beginning to end—birth, reproduction, and death,” he says.

The Plant Good Seed Company, his organic seed emporium out in Ojai, California, is now on a mission. “We want to connect plants and people,” he says. “It’s fun to think that there’s a common point between people who grow from seed—we want to be involved with life.”

Here, five varieties that Shakra recommends you plant this spring:

Spring planting means summer’s harvest is going to be here in no time, so guarantee a sweet yield by adding figs to your homegrown bounty with the Sunset Western Garden Collection’s adorably named dwarf fig tree, Little Miss Figgy.

Whether it’s grown in a container or in the ground, this diminutive tree fruits in the first year unlike other fig trees and produces yummy, jammy, deep purple figs that are a luscious hallmark of a Western summer. Find one at a nursery near you with the store finder at SUNSETWESTERNGARDENCOLLECTION.COM.

PLANT Start cosmos, sunflower, and zinnia

from seed. All are easy to grow,

make nice cut flowers, and attract

beneficial insects.

Site heat-loving vegetables carefully. All

need full sun. Put tall growers (pole beans, corn, tomatoes, et cetera) on the north

side of shorter varieties (such as cucum-

ber, eggplants, melons, peppers, and

squash) so they won’t shade them out.

To create reusable plant markers, dip

the tops of wooden stakes in chalkboard paint (available in craft stores). Use

trees. Gently twist them off, leaving 4 to 6 inches between fruits.

Collect seeds from annual flowers

that have finished blooming, such as

bachelor’s button, chamomile, cosmos, love-in-a-mist, nasturtium, and sweet

peas. Allow them to dry, stash in labeled envelopes, and sow next fall.

As daffodils and other spring-flower-

ing bulbs finish blooming, prune out

spent flowers. Leave the foliage in place until it’s completely brown, so it can

send nutrients back down to the bulbs.

them now to mark the spots where

PROTECT

identify herbs in your garden.

foot Insect Barrier or traps containing

you’ve sown seeds and in the spring to

H A RV E S T Establish a twice-weekly harvest

Control ants with sticky Tree Tangle-

boric acid.

Treat outbreaks of whiteflies with

schedule to keep herbs and vegetables

insecticidal soap. Spray the whole

soon as they’re plump; pull radishes

leaves) every three days until the

growing vigorously. Pick pea pods as

from the ground as they fatten up; and regularly pinch leaves off basil, mint, and parsley.

M A I N TA I N Thin out clusters of marble-size fruit

on apple, apricot, nectarine, and peach

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SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

plant (including the undersides of flies are eradicated.

In fire zones, consider succulents,

which contain lots of water in their leaves, making them useful for

landscaping to prevent or minimize fire damage.

Ice Cream Melon: “A cross of two heirlooms, ‘Ice Cream’ melon was named for being able to hold a scoop of ice cream when the seeds are removed,” Shakra says. Very productive and sweet.

‘Glass Gem’ Corn: This originated with wellknown ancestral corn breeder Carl Barnes, a part-Cherokee Oklahoma farmer. “The translucent, gem-like kernels are usually ornamental,” Shakra says.

However, the smaller kernels can be used for popcorn, and the larger ones can be ground into flour.

‘Siskiyou’ Orange Tomato: A medium-size, pleated, round but slightly flat orange tomato. “We’ve produced this variety in three different climates— Southern Oregon, Philadelphia, and here in Southern California—and every time it’s been extremely productive,” Shakra says.

‘Vana Holy’ Basil: “‘Holy Basil’ has a relationship to traditional Indian medicine (Ayurveda),” says Shakra. “They’re used for tea—anecdotally it relieves stress and anxiety.” Vana’s leaves are pale green, fuzzy, and have a clove-like aroma.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SUNSET PLANT COLLECTION; QUIN SHAKRA/THE PLANT GOOD SEED COMPANY (5)

PLANT THIS NOW

Hibiscus: Commonly used to make teas.

“While it’s often referred to as a ‘flower’ when you find it in stores,” Shakra says, “the part one uses is the calyx or pod, which forms after the flower.”

1

2 3

4

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM RIGHT: KENNA REED; IJFKE RIDGELY (5)

Houseplant Style Ever walked into a gorgeous plant store and wondered how the owner displays her wares at home? Courtney Monahan of Paiko, a botanical boutique in Honolulu, incorporates island style but tempers it with eclectic and vintage pieces.

The result is a home filled with pretty, fresh moments alongside lush greenery—a look that’s ripe for inspiration.

Here, Monahan gives us four tips to style plants her way.

1

you gotta try some-

2

is from my grandma.”

3

the eye dance, but

4

“They tell you where

vintage botanical

ent plants, with vary-

collection isn’t built

The Plants Are in Charge: “If your

plant doesn’t like where you put it,

place else,” she says. they want to be.” (Even if it’s in a Tom Ford

perfume bottle, like the begonia living happily on one of her bathroom shelves.)

Get Sentimental:

“I like clean lines,” Monahan says,

“but the furniture

Her bedroom features prints, a mounted

staghorn fern, and dried leis. (“When

Repeat the Pot, Not the Plant: Monochrome

white pots make

Monahan uses differing textures, including

a Philodendron narrow, a Hoya obovata, and a

someone picked 300

Dracaena angolensis,

cately strung them, it’s

getting too

flowers and then deli-

something you save.”)

to keep things from same-same.

Be Patient: It

would be nice to walk into a store

and walk out with

Monahan’s home, but

she says a meaningful with one-stop shop-

ping—even when you

own the store. “Home

design and plants take

time,” she says. “The fun is seeing how they grow into the space.”

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

37

1 4

8

9

2

3

6 7 5

Ultimate DIY Raised Bed

What if you could build a raised bed with all the accoutrements a city gardener could ever want? Spoiler alert: We did it.

And the result is top-notch.

Story by D EAN NA KIZ I S

• Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

THE BAR IS OPEN THIS 36-BY-18INCH RAISED BED IS A PERFECT SIZE TO CREATE THE SPECIALIZED MINI-GARDEN OF YOUR DREAMS. HERE, THREE IDEAS FOR HOW TO PLANT IT.

The heirloom tomatoes I pick from my raised bed are the

stars of my Instagram. After all, I grow my veggies right in

the middle of Los Angeles, not on a farm. So imagine my dismay when I found my tomatoes torpedoed, my cucumbers

consumed, and tell-tale tunnels running through the soil. I instantly knew the culprits: rats. Very clever rats, which I soon learned would only be deterred by a hardcore barrier.

If only I’d known about Victory Garden LA and its raised

beds with “Critter Covers” made of redwood and hardware

cloth. They’re the brainchild of television commercial director Raúl B. Fernández, who started building them in his

driveway during the pandemic. His success is a true Hollywood story: COVID boredom led to a DIY raised bed for his

wife, which led to friends wanting one, which led to Fernández posting images of the beds on social media. Demand

SALSA BAR

Get a little spice in your life by growing Roma tomatoes, scallions, cilantro (unless you have that gene that makes cilantro taste like soap, in which case try parsley or Thai basil), and jalapeños.

soared, and soon he was employing his out-of-work crew of production designers, grips, actors, and camera people.

Fernández and his crew have started working in the entertainment industry again, but just because he is back doing commercials—his most recent was for Skillshare—that doesn’t mean his raised bed company is going dark. “People are like ‘What are you going to do?’” he says. “I tell them, ‘Orders keep coming in. I employ all these people. Victory Garden LA is bigger than me now. I couldn’t stop it if I tried.’” See all of Victory Garden’s raised beds at victorygardenla.com

BEE KIND

BEES GET THIRSTY, TOO. HERE’S HOW TO CREATE YOUR OWN WATERING HOLE.

Inspired by his handsome work, I started to wonder: What

would a truly tricked-out bed worthy of an urban environ-

ment include? The result is this custom build. Does it keep out invaders? Check. Does it have a pollinator watering station?

Check. Does it, in fact, tick all the boxes when it comes to

what any city dweller would need in a raised bed? We can only say, Check, check, check!

1. A “Critter Cover” keeps out rodents. “When I started this business, doing deliveries was a slice of life,” Fernández says. “It’s like we went from an industry town to a vegetable town.”

some happy-golucky Johnnyjump-ups).

2. A handy holder keeps your cell phone safely stored—perfect for Instagram glamour shots of vegetables in repose.

5. Thai basil waves hello from the sidelines.

Use it to lure pollinators to your raised beds.

8. A pre-installed drip irrigation system keeps vegetables crisp and saves water.

Fernández has organic, composted soil delivered to his Boyle Heights workshop every week.

6. A watering station gives thirsty bees a drink. Once established, bees will return to the same spot over and over.

9. Garden tools from Barebones hang at the ready from a repurposed, oilrubbed, bronze drawer handle.

3. A place for seedlings so they can soak up the sun until planting time. (Or in this case, a space for

4. Like to whistle while you work?

A Bang & Olufsen Beosound speaker on a handy S-hook takes care of the tunes.

7. Wheels make the bed easily maneuverable when the seasons change and the sun moves.

SALAD BAR

Any homegrown salad puts one made with storebought vegetables to shame. Stock up on romaine lettuce, arugula (an excellent choice since it’s “cut and come again”), and seedless cucumbers, plus chives, dill, and basil for the dressing.

COCKTAIL BAR

Fresh herbs add depth and flavor to homemade drinks.

Try growing Thai basil for its hearty flavor, as well as thyme, rosemary (perfect for infusing gin), lemon balm, and, of course, mint for refreshing mojitos.

1. You’ll need a glazed plant saucer, dish, or tray.

(A glazed one will hold the water better than terra cotta.)

2. Remember that bees can’t swim and need a place to perch, so fill the tray with marbles, river rocks, or glass pebbles.

3. Add water and a sprinkle of mineral or sea salt, which will act as an attractant.

4. Rinse the dish and replace the water every few days to get rid of mosquito larvae.

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

39

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Every three months, you’ll get a box full of home, design, food, and gardening products curated by Sunset editors to help you make the most of every season.

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Our next box will be full of everything you need for an epic summer—think camping, grilling, and outdoor entertaining!

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2/17/22 11:19 AM

FOOD

&

DRINK

West Coast Flair Pitmaster Matt Horn’s monumental new cookbook is a master class in how to make mouthwatering West Coast barbecue, from nontraditional meats to seasonal sides.

Story by KRI STI N SCHARKE Y Photographs by AN D REW TH O MAS LE E

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

41

© 2022 QUARTO PUBLISHING GROUP USA INC. TEXT © 2022 MATT HORN. PHOTOGRAPHY © 2022 ANDREW THOMAS LEE

Matt Horn continues to evolve the flavor profile of West Coast barbecue.

The Oakland pitmaster is chasing perfection, tracing the edges of his culinary foundation built on central Texas barbecue, but layering on ingredients and techniques that are familiar here in the West. Think Pacific Ocean sablefish and cold-lake trout, brined and lightly seasoned; juicy, spatchcocked chicken marinated in brown sugar, rosemary, and thyme; or seasonally fresh watermelon cubed into a chilled mint-basil salad, a refreshing palate cleanse with each bite.

“West Coast style is utilizing our seasonal bounty and incorporating creative sides to pair with our smoked meats that aren’t categorized as ‘traditional’ to barbecue,” Horn says. “Utilizing everything that is around us here on the West Coast, from ingredients to cultural influences, is the true essence of who we are.”

It’s been over a year since Horn opened his first barbecue restaurant in Oakland amid the pandemic, and he’s not

even close to slowing down. He debuted his second restaurant, Kowbird, in the city earlier this year—a tribute to the South and the importance that fried chicken has played in African American culture, the pitmaster says. He’s also behind a taco truck concept called Dalia where homemade tortillas meet smoked meats, eggs, and salsa—“the kind of place I find myself eating at for breakfast or lunch,” Horn says. And this spring, he plans to open another Oakland restaurant, Matty’s Old Fashioned, to bring his version of a classic American burger joint with hot dogs and handcrafted milkshakes.

Through it all, Horn somehow found the time to write his first cookbook, Horn Barbecue: Recipes and Techniques from a Master of the Art of BBQ, “only one of a handful of African American-authored barbecue books published in the last 30 years,” writes James Beard Award-winning author Adrian Miller in the foreword.

As Horn finds himself at the forefront of epicurean innovation in Oakland—acutely aware of the city’s “rich history as a destination of the Great Black Migration,” he says—the pitmaster reflects that barbecue has taught him to stay patient, and stay focused. He wants to honor those who came before him and continue to grow as he carries “the culture of barbecue” into the next generation. “Barbecue, from a traditional standpoint, has always shown us its ability to bring people together,” Horn says. “Barbecue may be a labor of love, but it is the great unifier.”

Horn is “more than ready to build on what the elders before him created and take barbecue in new directions,” writes Miller. “Are you ready for this soul-satisfying journey?” We are. Here, Horn gets us started by sharing some of the recipes from his history-making cookbook.

Burn Barrel Chicken “Grilled chicken is an excellent humble

family meal, although the marinade in this recipe adds an incredible glaze worthy of a restaurant meal,” Horn

writes. “The brown sugar speeds up

caramelization and deepens the flavor of the finished poultry.” S E R V E S 4 6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 4 Tbsp. brown sugar

1. In a medium bowl, whisk olive oil, brown sugar, garlic, thyme, and

rosemary to blend. Generously season mixture with salt and pepper,

and whisk to combine. Reserve ¼ cup of the marinade for basting.

2. Add chicken thighs to bowl, toss to coat, and place in refrigerator to

marinate for at least 20 minutes, and up to overnight.

2 Tbsp. minced garlic

3. Preheat a wood, charcoal, or gas-

2 tsp. dried rosemary

4. Place the chicken on the grill, meat

2 tsp. dried thyme Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

burning grill to medium-high.

side down first, and cook for about 6 minutes per side, basting with the reserved marinade, until cooked through and the juices run clear.

5. Garnish with parsley before serving.

Sweet Barbecue Sauce “Everyone needs a versatile barbecue sauce,” Horn says, noting that you can use it as a marinade before cooking, mop it on while smoking, apply it after cooking, or serve it on the side for dipping.

“Whip [it] up when guests are on the way, or even just for everyday meals to make them more special. Mine is this easy recipe, which uses two sweeteners—brown sugar and honey—to create a complex, rich taste. Try this sauce on ribs, chicken, or mixed into juicy pulled pork.” M A K E S A B O U T 1 C U P 1 cup ketchup

2 Tbsp. brown sugar

1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp.

Worcestershire sauce

1½ tsp. honey

1½ tsp. kosher salt

1. Stir all ingredients together in a medium sauce pan. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally.

2. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened.

3. Use immediately, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

1½ tsp. freshly

ground black pepper

1½ tsp. liquid smoke

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

43

BBQ King Matt Horn excels at low and slow—but he’s opening new spots with relentless speed and passion.

HORN BARBECUE OPENED OCTOBER 2020

Horn didn’t let the pandemic stall his long-smoked dreams, opening his first Oakland restaurant where people will wait in line for tender brisket.

Pickled Carrots crisp carrots; the sweetness of this

colorful root vegetable is enhanced by the tart-sweet brine and kick of mustard and fennel seeds. If you can get

your hands on heirloom carrots—red,

yellow, purple, and white—these pickles will look like art.”

MAKES FO U R 1 -PI NT JARS 1 Tbsp. mustard seeds 1 tsp. fennel seeds

1 tsp. whole black peppercorns 2 cups apple cider vinegar 2 Tbsp. sugar

2 Tbsp. kosher salt

4 garlic cloves, peeled

½ lb. 2- to 3-inch-long carrots, peeled

and quarted lengthwise

1. Place four empty pint jars, mouth

side up, and their lids in a sterilizer rack in a stockpot.

2. Fill the pot and jars with hot water

until the jars are covered by 1 inch of water. Bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat and boil for 10 minutes.

3. One at a time, using tongs, remove

hot, sterilized jars and lids and drain.

4. While the jars are sterilizing, prepare the pickle. In a small bowl, stir to-

gether the mustard seeds, fennel

44

SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

seeds, and peppercorns until well mixed. Set aside.

5. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine vinegar, 2 cups water, sugar, and salt, and

bring to a boil. Cook 2 minutes, until

the sugar dissolves. Reduce heat to low and keep mixture warm.

6. When the jars are sterilized, place

one garlic clove into each jar and

evenly divide spices among the jars.

7. Pack the carrots into the jars and

pour the vinegar mixture over them, leaving ¼-inch of headspace from the rim of the jar. Run a clean knife

between the carrots to dislodge any air bubbles. Top up brine if needed.

8. Screw on the lids firmly, but not too tight, and place the packed jars

back in the sterilizer rack in the water.

The water should cover the filled jars

by about 2 inches; add more water if

needed. Bring to a boil for 15 minutes.

Remove the rack and let the jars cool—the lids should pop.

9. It’s best to store all the jars in the re-

frigerator for up to 3 weeks, but technically the ones that “pop” can be stored at room temperature. (The

non-poppers absolutely need to be refrigerated.)

KOWBIRD OPENED JANUARY 2022

Horn says his second restaurant is a tribute to the importance that fried chicken has played in African American culture.

DALIA OPENING EARLY 2022

At Horn’s taco truck, homemade tortillas meet smoked meats, eggs, and salsa.

MATTY’S OLD FASHIONED OPENING SPRING 2022

This restaurant brings to life Horn’s version of a classic American burger joint with hot dogs and handcrafted milkshakes.

BBQ KING, FROM TOP: HORN BARBECUE; KOWBIRD

“This is a standard pickle recipe for

“ West Coast style is utilizing our seasonal bounty.”

Watermelon Salad “This is such a light summer salad to

freshen your palate between barbe-

cue dishes. If you have time, I recommend chilling the salad for about 20 minutes before serving for the best flavor and most refreshing bite.”

SERVES 4

6 cups cubed seedless watermelon ¼ cup chopped fresh mint

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

¼ cup Kalamata olives, pitted and sliced

Drizzle olive oil

Drizzle balsamic vinegar ½ cup feta cheese

1. In a large bowl, toss together the watermelon, mint, basil, olives,

olive oil, and balsamic vinegar until well mixed.

2. Top with the feta cheese just before serving.

GET THE BOOK

You can order a copy of Horn Barbecue: Recipes and Techniques from a Master of the Art of BBQ at quartoknows.com; $30 GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

45

Bread Pudding “You would never know this rich

dessert was invented centuries ago to use up stale bread that would otherwise be thrown away. This

version is extra scrumptious, with

luscious heavy-cream-based custard and flaky, buttery croissants. I love to serve this pudding with

sliced fresh strawberries to add a gorgeous pop of color.”

SERVES 6-8 5 cups heavy cream 14 large egg yolks 1¼ cups sugar

1 Tbsp. vanilla extract

8 stale or fresh croissants, torn into 1½-inch pieces

¼ cup melted butter

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. In a large saucepan over medium

heat, warm the cream until just below scalding.

3. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks

and sugar until blended. Slowly add the warm cream to the egg yolks, whisking constantly. Whisk in the vanilla.

4. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.

Place the torn croissants inside, drizzle with the melted butter, and toss

to coat and combine. Pour the base

over the croissants, toss to coat, and let stand for 15 minutes.

5. Bake 50-55 minutes until golden and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.

46

SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

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2/21/22 8:28 AM

BR E A K FAST in Story by KRI STI N SCHARKE Y

Photographs by NAO M I M c CO LLO CH

BLOOM AN EXPERT ON EDIBLE FLOWERS, CASSIE WINSLOW TEACHES YOU HOW TO MAKE—AND GROW—YOUR OWN FLORAL BRUNCH, JUST IN TIME FOR SPRING.

L

ike a lot of other folks, Cassie Winslow moved during the pandemic. She and her family packed up their life in Santa Cruz and headed to the Sacramento Valley to be closer to loved ones and have a bit more room. Unlike a lot of other folks, they spent the first few months planting more than 70 rose bushes around their new home.

Winslow’s husband is the green thumb of the pair, but she is the one who’s garnered a following for her ability to transform seemingly simple dishes and drinks into botanical showpieces on her stunning Instagram and blog @decotartelette, and in her first book, where she showed us how to add beautiful edible flowers to cocktails.

Now she’s back with Floral Provisions: 45+ Sweet and Savory Recipes, a cookbook full of tips for leveling up everyday meals with a fragrant twist, from lavender crêpes to apricot-chamomile jam.

While there are so many varieties of edible

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SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

flowers, Winslow features those that are easy to source or grow at home.

“Lavender and chamomile are quite versatile and tend to require minimal maintenance,” Winslow writes. “Nasturtium is also quite lovely, and if it grows well in your area, it can fill your garden with gorgeous blooms year-round.”

Because we like a sweet start to the day, we found ourselves drawn to the breakfast dishes in Floral Provisions, which we’ve excerpted here complete with sauces, butters, and salts made with all types of botanicals.

“Fresh flowers tend to have a very subtle flavor,” Winslow tells us. “When they’re dried, the flavor is more potent.”

Incorporating botanicals can add not only new fragrances to your family classics but also vibrantly colored garnishes and, well, some joy. “Just have fun with it and experiment,” Winslow says. “I’ll be surprised if it doesn’t bring a smile to your face.”

Lavender Crêpes With Lavender Pluot Sauce “Imagine a bed of warm crêpes served with a pat of lavender butter

and topped with a tangy and vibrant pluot sauce. It’s one of my favor-

ite breakfasts to make on a Monday morning,” Winslow writes. “You can make the batter the night before and allow it to set in the refrigerator overnight so that you can start the week with a belly full of beautiful food and a skip in your step.” M A K E S 8 C R Ê P E S LAVENDER PLUOT SAUCE

2 cups pluots, pitted and thinly

sliced (you can also use plums or your favorite stone fruit)

3 Tbsp. granulated sugar

1 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ tsp. dried lavender LAVENDER BUTTER

1 Tbsp. fresh edible lavender petals

½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

LAVENDER CRÊPES

Lavender Butter:

1. In a medium mixing bowl, fold

the lavender petals into the butter with a rubber spatula, until

just combined. You want to be

very gentle during this process

or you will break down the flow-

ers too much and the dish won’t look as pretty.

2. Scoop the mixture into a small

bowl and press it down to form one solid piece.

3. Store, covered, in the refrigerator and use within a few days.

Lavender Crêpes:

6 Tbsp. Lavender Butter, plus 1 tsp.

1. Melt 2 Tbsp. of the Lavender But-

2 cups whole milk

2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk to-

to grease the pan

1½ cups all-purpose flour 2 large eggs

½ tsp. Rose Salt (see recipe on next page)

1 tsp. confectioners’ sugar, for serving

Lavender Pluot Sauce:

1. In a medium saucepan over

medium heat, add the pluots, ¼

cup filtered water, sugar, lemon juice, and dried lavender.

2. Using a wooden spoon, stir until the mixture comes to a simmer.

Simmer 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Once the mixture has reached a

sauce-like thickness, remove the saucepan from the heat and allow the mixture to cool for about 10 minutes. Store in an airtight

container in the refrigerator and enjoy within a few days.

ter, then allow to cool.

gether milk, flour, eggs, melted Lavender Butter, and Rose Salt until smooth.

3. Pour the batter through a finemesh sieve into another large

bowl, using a rubber spatula to work it through.

4. Cover and let the batter sit in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, or up to overnight.

5. Place an 8-inch nonstick pan

over medium heat and lightly

grease it with 1 tsp. of Lavender

Butter. Pour 1 3 cup of batter into

the pan, then tilt the pan so the batter spreads and covers it

evenly, in one thin layer. Let cook 1-2 minutes, until little golden

dots begin to form, then flip and cook 1-2 minutes more. Remove

to a warm plate. Repeat with remaining batter.

6. Serve immediately with Laven-

der Pluot Sauce and the remaining 4 Tbsp. of Lavender Butter.

Use a small fine-mesh sieve to

sprinkle the confectioners’ sugar over the top of the crêpes.

TIP:

“I love servin g this quich e with a floral side sa lad. Simply take ½ cup of mixe d greens pe r serving and add 3 Tb sp. of fresh flo wer petals. Sque eze a quar te red lemon over the top, drizz le with olive oil, and sprinkle with a pinch of Ch amomile Sa lt.

Voilà!”

MAKES ½ CUP

1. In a food pro-

cessor or spice

“This delicious quiche puts on quite a

cup dried rose

brant, fresh calendula petals and

seconds, until

to this savory treat … and paired with

small flakes. Be

absolutely lovely in every way.”

grinder, grind ¼

show at the brunch or tea table. Vi-

petals for 5-10

blooming herbs add a pretty confetti

they resemble

the saltiness of Gouda and bacon? It’s

sure not to

S E RV E S 8

a powder.

CRUST

stir together

1 tsp. Chamomile Salt (see recipe on

and ½ cup fine

½ cup cold, unsalted butter, cut into

grind them into

2. In a small bowl, rose petals

sea salt. For

optimal flavor,

1 1 3 cups sifted all-purpose flour opposite page) small cubes

wait about 1

FILLING

using, though

¾ cup half-and-half

immediately if

2 Tbsp. sour cream

week before

5 large eggs

you can use

¼ cup whole milk

needed.

½ tsp. Chamomile Salt

3. Store in an air-

tight container

¼ cup bacon, cooked until crispy, chopped

at room tem-

½ cup grated Gouda

to 1 year.

4 Tbsp. chopped blooming herbs, such

perature for up

4 Tbsp. grated Parmigiano Reggiano as a combination of rosemary,

oregano, marjoram, and parsley

2 Tbsp. fresh calendula petals

1 Tbsp. heavy cream or half-and-half

GET THE BOOK

Order a copy of Floral Provisions at chroniclebooks.com; $19 50

SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

ADAPTED FROM FLORAL PROVISIONS: 45+ SWEET AND SAVORY RECIPES BY CASSIE WINSLOW WITH PERMISSION FROM CHRONICLE BOOKS, 2022. PHOTOGRAPHS © NAOMI McCOLLOCH.

ROSE SALT

Calendula, Gouda, And Bacon Quiche With Fresh Blooming Herbs

To make the crust:

1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour and Chamomile Salt.

2. Add the butter and, using your

hands, press it into the flour mixture until the dough resembles flakes.

3. Add ¼ cup filtered water and mix again with your hands until just

combined. Form the dough into a small disk and wrap it in plastic wrap.

4. Store in the refrigerator until ready to use, up to a week. If it’s a hot day, I

like to let the dough rest in the refrigerator for about an hour.

To make the filling:

1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk 4 of the

5 eggs together until the yolks blend

CHAMOMILE SALT

MAKES ½ CUP

1. In a food pro-

cessor or spice grinder, grind ¼ cup dried

with the whites.

chamomile

sour cream, Chamomile Salt, bacon,

bles small

Reggiano, 3 Tbsp. of the blooming

seconds. Be

Apricot-Chamomile Jam

Whisk together until just combined.

grind it into a

“This fragrant jam is one of my favorite summertime

2. Add the half-and-half, whole milk,

until it resem-

Gouda, 3 Tbsp. of the Parmigiano

flakes, about 10

herbs, and the calendula petals.

sure not to

Store in the refrigerator until ready to

powder.

use.

To make the quiche:

2. In a small bowl, stir together chamomile

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Butter a 9-inch ceramic tart dish. Set

and ½ cup fine

3. Lightly flour a large, clean work sur-

wait about 1

sea salt. For

aside.

optimal flavor,

face. Remove the dough from the re-

week before

it out into a circle about 10 inches in

you can use

frigerator, and, using a rolling pin, roll

using, though

diameter. Transfer the dough to the

immediately if

tart dish and press it in gently.

4. Using a fork, prick holes in the dough to allow steam to escape while bak-

needed.

tight container at room tem-

dish. Sprinkle with the remaining 1

to 6 months.

Tbsp. of Parmigiano.

6. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining egg and heavy cream

in such a delightful way. I love slathering some atop a

layer of ricotta on sourdough toast and sprinkling it with chopped pistachios; it’s the perfect summer snack. You

can also dollop some on your favorite vanilla ice cream for a refreshing dessert on a sizzling day.”

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

1½ Tbsp. dried chamomile

2¼ cups ripe apricots, pitted and thinly sliced 1

3

cup granulated sugar

2 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

3. Store in an air-

ing; about 10 pricks will do.

5. Pour the quiche filling into the tart

treats. Apricots and chamomile complement each other

perature for up

1. In a spice grinder or food processor, grind the chamomile flowers until the blooms resemble small flakes or

sprinkles. This happens very quickly, so you only need to pulse a few times.

2. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, add the

chamomile, apricots, ½ cup filtered water, sugar, and

lemon juice. Using a wooden spoon, mix until combined.

until well combined. Using a pastry

3. Allow the mixture to simmer for about 5 minutes, until

exposed crust.

4. Using a potato masher, mash the apricot slices in the

brush, brush the egg wash on the

7. Bake the quiche until the filling has just set, about 40 minutes.

8. Let cool 15 minutes before serving.

Sprinkle with the remaining chopped

the apricots begin to break down and soften.

mixture to help break them down further. The mixture

should be syrupy. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer until it looks glossy and thick, 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.

herbs.

5. Transfer the jam to a large, heatproof container, such as

er in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

6. Seal and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

9. Store leftovers in an airtight contain-

a mason jar, and let cool on the counter for about 1 hour.

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

51

JAMES BEARD AWARDWINNING CHEF BRADY ISHIWATA WILLIAMS PAYS TRIBUTE TO HIS JAPANESE GRANDMOTHER AT SEATTLE RESTAURANT TOMO, WHERE ALL THINGS PLANT, PISCINE, AND PACIFIC NORTHWEST SHINE. WE’VE GOT THE RECIPES AND CHEF TECHNIQUES THAT TAKE TOMO OVER THE TOP. Story by H U G H GARVE Y Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

F R I E N & D F S A M I L Y

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

53

54

SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

coastal dive bar” and a far cry from Canlis, with its white tablecloths and views of Lake Union. At Tomo there are ebonized wood walls, sleek banquettes, a black steel bar, and a patio in the back with the air of a beer garden.

The name Tomo is an homage to Williams’ grandmother, Tomoko Ishiwata Bristol, but it’s also slang for pal or friend in Japanese. “When we were developing the restaurant we asked ourselves, what does it really mean to be a friend?”

Williams says. He lists the ways: to support each other, your neighbors, the earth, yourself, your friends. When they were building the restaurant, a gay bar up the street was arsonized and the Tomo team cooked wagyu-chile topped hot dogs for a block party fundraiser. He kept the creative team close, enlisting White Center-based ceramicist Akiko Graham to design the dishware, and friends at Graypants studio to design the space. The wine list leans toward lighter-bodied, reasonably priced, small production wines made with regenerative farming practices. Local farmers provide produce that shows up in dishes combining Japanese inflections from Williams and pan-Latin influences from chef de cuisine Diana Mata García. You’ll find hyper-local seafood and heirloom vegetables prepared with, say, Oaxacan chilhuacle chiles or yuzu kosho, and arepas alongside beef tataki with miso broth.

On our visit, Tomo is still strewn with power tools, the furniture is in storage, and the lights aren’t quite working yet. The one bright pop of color is perched on the bar top: a gold and red Japanese maneki-neko cat statue, said to bring good luck to its owner. And today we have no reason to challenge that belief: When Tomo opened its reservation system, within seven minutes it had booked out for a month. It’s been that way ever since. To bring you a taste of Tomo, Williams, García, and team share a few simple dishes that channel its flavors and feeling.

Some require a bit of chef-y attention and skill, but the pro takeaways are surprising and satisfying and can be incorporated into your culinary repertoire.

TOP LEFT: KYLE JOHNSON

C H E F

Brady Ishiwata Williams pulls up outside his Seattle restaurant Tomo in a white Toyota Land Cruiser and something is off. Despite the fact that nobody’s in the driver’s seat, the vehicle manages to deftly park itself. Then Williams gets out, and there’s the steering wheel plain as day. On the wrong side. Williams explains it’s a vintage import manufactured for the Japanese market where passenger and driver positions are flipped. Tricked out with an exhaust snorkel and gleaming chrome badging, the Cruiser is not only way cooler than your run-of-the-mill SUV, it turns out it’s cheaper, too. It’s the kind of considered decision—equal parts practical and delightful—that has gone into so many aspects of Tomo.

Williams took over the space in Seattle’s White Center neighborhood at the depths of the pandemic, with no small amount of hope and the dream of finally having his own place after years of accolades. Williams is one of the most decorated chefs in the Pacific Northwest, with two James Beard awards under his belt—one for Rising Star Chef and the other for the coveted Best Chef: Northwest, both of which he earned as chef at the 70-year-old Seattle fine-dining institution Canlis. When we visit Tomo to photograph this story, the restaurant is still under construction. Located between a pizza joint and an adult video store, it’s a narrow but elegant space that Williams describes as “brutalist ryokan meets

Chef Brady Ishiwata Williams, chef de cuisine Diana Mata García, and pastry chef Richard Garcia

Miss Nick

This pink and frothy drink gets its richness from egg whites and its fruit fla-

vor from tayberries, a hybrid of blackberry and red raspberry. If you can’t

find tayberries, substitute a blend of blackberries and raspberries.

M A K E S 1 C O C K TA I L 2 cups sugar 1 cup water

1 pint tayberries 1¾ oz. apple brandy

½ oz. tayberry syrup ½ oz. lemon juice ¼ oz. lime juice 1 egg white

Magnolia flower, for garnish To make the tayberry syrup:

PRO TIP

1. Combine sugar and 1 cup water in a

The Smoking Gun is a

saucepan, and cook over low heat

chef’s tool that adds smoky

until dissolved.

flavor to food and drinks in sec-

2. Add tayberries, raise heat and sim-

onds. You simply load it with propri-

mer for 5 minutes.

etary wood chips and “shoot” the

3. Strain through a fine mesh sieve

smoke onto the surface of ingredi-

and chill.

ents. Oil is particularly good for

To make the cocktail:

cold smoking, as the smoke binds with the fat

1. In a cocktail shaker, dry shake all

molecules.

ingredients but the garnish for 5 seconds. (“Dry shake” is

bartender-speak for shaking a drink without ice.)

2. Add ice to shaker and shake vigorously for 20 seconds.

3. Strain into a chilled Nick and Nora glass.

4. Garnish with magnolia flower and serve.

Tenure

This gorgeous cocktail is on the savory side of the mixology spectrum. The

restaurant trick here is using a Smok-

ing Gun (a cold smoking tool) to flavor

To make the thyme oil:

1. Cold-smoke grapeseed oil for

20 minutes with a Smoking Gun loaded with cherrywood.

the thyme oil.

2. Combine thyme and smoked oil in

1 cup grapeseed oil

3. Strain and reserve.

2 oz. gin

To make the cocktail:

M A K E S 1 C O C K TA I L

1 bunch thyme, 2 sprigs reserved ½ oz. yellow chartreuse ¾ oz. dry vermouth

2 Castelvetrano olives, for garnish

an airtight container and steep for 10 hours.

1. Combine gin, yellow chartreuse, and

vermouth in a mixing glass filled with ice and stir until chilled.

2. Strain into a chilled coupe.

3. Garnish with olives and reserved thyme sprigs. Drizzle with ¼ oz. smoked thyme oil.

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

55

Preparing squash two ways creates a

Squash with Hemp and Arugula

delightful combination of textures

and flavors. The miso marinade gives the seared squash briny umami

depth, which is a pleasant counter-

point to the pickled squash. Hemp purée is an earthy base while arugula oil adds both freshness and richness.

S E RV E S 4

MISO SQUASH

3 medium eggs

1 cup white miso

¾ cup apple cider vinegar ¼ cup mirin ¼ cup sake

¼ cup kosher salt

2 medium green squash, sliced thinly lengthwise

PICKLED SQUASH

1¼ cup Champagne vinegar 1 Tbps. kosher salt

2 medium yellow squash, sliced thinly

To make the miso squash:

1. In a blender, blend eggs, miso, vinegar, mirin, sake, and salt until

smooth. Marinate squash in miso sauce overnight.

2. Heat a large cast-iron pan over

high heat until smoking. Remove

squash from marinade and brush

off any excess marinade. Working in batches to avoid crowding the pan, sear each side of the squash until charred, about 30 seconds.

To make the pickled squash:

crosswise

1. In a large bowl, combine vinegar

HEMP PURÉE

2. Combine squash and seasoned

2¼ cups raw hemp seeds ARUGULA OIL

½ cup grapeseed oil

3 cups baby arugula

and salt and stir to dissolve.

vinegar in a large resealable plastic bag, and let refrigerate overnight.

To make the hemp purée:

1. Combine 2 cups water and hemp seeds in a pressure cooker and

cook on pressure 2 for 20 minutes. If you don’t have a pressure cooker,

combine hemp seeds with 6 cups

56

SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

water in a large pot, and boil until seeds have split and most of the water has cooked off, about 45 minutes.

2. Put hemp mixture in a blender and blend until it reaches a porridgelike consistency, adding water if

necessary. Pass through a medium wire strainer into a bowl and season with salt to taste.

To make the arugula oil:

1. In a blender (ideally a heavy-duty blender like a Vitamix), combine grapeseed oil and arugula and blend for 6 minutes.

2. Strain this oil through a coffee filter into a squeeze bottle. Let cool.

3. To serve: Place a dollop of hemp purée at the base of a bowl. Arrange slices of squash, folding

some over to make ribbons, but

layering different sizes and alter-

nating between pickled and roasted squash. Finish with a squeeze of arugula oil.

Corn Ribs and Tofu

Deep-frying corn “ribs” enhances the corn’s natural sweetness.

S E RV E S 2 2 limes

3. In a shallow pot over medium-high

1 16 oz. package medium tofu

1 tsp. togarashi, plus more for garnish

heat, heat 1 inch of canola oil to 325°F.

Kosher salt

4. Season corn with salt. Add to the pan

into ribs

sion. Cook until the corn begins to

2 ears of corn, quartered lengthwise

and gently fry, turning over on occa-

Canola oil for frying

curl and the edges turn golden to

Black pepper

lightly dark brown in spots, about

3 minutes. Reserve and season with

1. Zest one of the limes and reserve

zest. Quarter the limes lengthwise.

2. Add tofu to a blender and blend until light and airy, the consistency of

black pepper and a squeeze of lime juice.

5. To assemble, place tofu sauce in a

mayonnaise. Add a splash of water if necessary. Add togarashi and lime juice and season to taste with salt.

ramekin for dipping. Place corn on a plate. Sprinkle corn with more togarashi and lime zest before serving with quartered limes on the side.

PRO TIP

Tomato water might be

unfamiliar to home cooks but

to chefs it’s a well-known way to

extract that fleeting, magical flavor

of peak-season tomatoes. The basic technique is: Blend tomatoes, strain through a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth, collect the juices, and you’re good to go.

Sungold Tomatoes in Roasted Tomato Vinaigrette

This minimalist salad is all about the maximalist dressing: roasted tomato vinai-

grette. It requires a multi-step process that yields a vinaigrette that’s deeply fla-

vored thanks to the roasted tomato water and the addition of Yondu, a prepared sauce loaded with umami-packed fermented vegetables that’s easily found

online. While it’s a bit of a project, this makes 1½ quarts of vinaigrette. Freeze in batches to use over the next couple of months.

SE RVES 4

½ cup white balsamic vinegar ½ cup sugar

1 12-inch-by-6-inch piece kombu, about 2½ oz.

3 lbs. beefsteak tomatoes 1 tsp. lime zest

¼ cup lime juice

¼ cup toasted white sesame seeds 1 Tbsp. Yondu sauce 1½ Tbsp. kosher salt

2 cups cherry or Sungold tomatoes Maldon salt Olive oil

12 coriander flowers for garnish, optional

1. In a medium pot over medium heat,

combine ¾ cup water, white balsamic vinegar, sugar, and kombu (breaking into pieces if necessary to fit in

pot) and cook, stirring occasionally, until dissolved, about 3 minutes.

2. Cut beefsteak tomatoes into

quarters and char on a grill in

small batches. Do not overcrowd or the tomatoes will steam and not char properly.

3. Place charred tomatoes in a large

bowl, pour hot balsamic liquid over

them, and mix in lime zest, lime juice, sesame seeds, Yondu sauce, and

salt. Allow mixture to cool and place in a container overnight to steep.

4. The next day, strain through a

cheesecloth or chinois into a large bowl. Use dressing immediately or freeze for up to one month.

5. To serve: Place Sungold tomatoes

in a bowl and season with Maldon

salt. Dress with 1 cup of the roasted tomato vinaigrette and drizzle with olive oil. Garnish with coriander flowers.

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

57

To make the albacore:

Fried Albacore with Onion Glaze and Yuzu Kosho

oven, add oil and heat to 450°F. Re-

2. Set up your dipping station: Place

and immediately lower into oil. Fry

until super-fine.

panko, flour, and beaten eggs in

separate containers. Line a plate with wax or parchment paper.

3. Season albacore with kosher salt.

Dip all sides of the fish in flour, shak-

The blow-your-mind technique here is

ing off excess. Then dip in the eggs,

flash frying. A mere 30 seconds in hot oil transforms rare albacore breaded bite. Glazing it with a long-reduced

SE RVES 4

PRO TIP

CARAMELIZED ONION GLAZE

The Japanese condi-

2 large yellow onions, quartered Fresh lemon juice Kosher salt

2 Tbsp. green yuzu kosho

1½ tsp. dried sansho or Sichuan peppercorns

1½ tsp. lemon juice ALBACORE

1 cup panko

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 medium eggs, lightly beaten

4 1-inch thick, 4 oz. pieces sashimigrade albacore tuna

Canola oil, for frying

To make the caramelized onion glaze:

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place onions and 1 qt. water in a dutch oven.

2. Cover the pan tightly with two layers of aluminum foil, and bake until the onions begin to darken and caramelize, about 6 hours.

3. Strain out the onions. Set the Dutch oven over medium-high heat and simmer the broth until it’s about

one-fifth its original volume. It should be thickened slightly and have a

very sweet and strong onion flavor.

4. Season to taste with lemon juice and salt.

To make the yuzu kosho:

• In a small bowl, add all ingredients and mix until thoroughly incorporated.

58

ment yuzu kosho is one of

those magical pantry ingredi-

YUZU KOSHO

SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

ents that boosts anything it

touches. Made with fermented chiles and the zest of the citrus yuzu, it delivers a salty, spicy, aromatic punch.

to drip back into pot. Place on pa-

per-towel-lined plate and let cool.

7. To assemble, slice albacore pieces

onion juice and top each with a

ready to fry.

for a study in contrasts.

move albacore from oil, allowing oil

panko adheres.

papered plate and refrigerate until

peppery, citrusy yuzu kosho make

20-30 seconds, until golden brown.

6. Using a spider strainer, carefully re-

in half crosswise. Place two pieces

4. Place coated albacore on the wax-

onion sauce and topping it with a

move albacore from the refrigerator

allowing excess to drip off. Dip in the panko, lightly pressing to ensure the

in panko into a delightfully crunchy

5. In a deep cast-iron skillet or dutch

1. In a food processor, blend panko

on each plate. Brush with reduced small amount of yuzu kosho.

To make the almond tart:

1. In a stand mixer on medium speed, mix butter, almond paste, and sugar together until light and airy. Reduce speed to low.

2. Add eggs one at a time, making sure they are fully incorporated.

3. Add flour and salt and mix until flour is just incorporated.

4. Pour into a buttered 6-inch tart pan

and bake at 325°F until golden, 15-20 minutes. Let cool. Cut into quarters.

To make the stone fruit compote:

1. Place peaches, ½ cup water, sugar,

lemon juice, a pinch of salt, and vanilla paste in a large pot set over medium

heat. Bring mixture to a gentle boil, stirring frequently.

2. Cook until all liquids have reduced into a thickened sauce and fruit is tender.

3. Adjust seasoning with salt and cool.

To make the cream:

1. In a large resealable plastic bag or

sous-vide bag, add cream and bees-

PRO TIP

At Tomo, Williams and

crew use the iSi brand

whipped cream canister, but

there are numerous more affordable brands. For around $50, you

can score a set that comes with nitrous oxide chargers and will allow you to make flavored whipped creams in

Beeswax Cream with Stone Fruit and Almond

milliseconds.

This dessert is honeyed and ethereal thanks to beeswax steeped in cream that is

then aerated into a delicate foam. It’s an excellent topping for a stone-fruit com-

pote on an almond tart base. To make the beeswax cream, you’ll need a whipped cream charger, such as an iSi Gourmet Whip, the go-to brand for chefs.

S E RV E S 4

ALMOND TART 1 stick butter

1 cup almond paste ¼ cup sugar

2 medium eggs 1

3

cup all-purpose flour

½ tsp. kosher salt

STONE FRUIT COMPOTE

6 peaches, pitted and diced 1

3

cup brown sugar

1 Tbsp. lemon juice

wax. Remove air and seal.

2. Set a sous vide machine to 194°F or

bring a large pot of water to 194°F over

a low simmer, and cook for 30 minutes.

Agitate the bag while the wax is melting.

3. Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath by fill-

ing a large bowl with ice and water. After 30 minutes, remove the bag from hot water and place in the ice bath.

Once the cream has cooled and wax

has solidified, strain cream through a

fine mesh strainer into a small saucepan, and reserve wax for another use.

Bloom gelatin in a bowl of ice water.

4. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together

the egg whites and sugar until homogenous. Place the saucepan containing

cream over medium heat, bring cream to just under a simmer, then remove from heat. Whisk in gelatin until dis-

Kosher salt to taste 1 tsp. vanilla paste BEESWAX CREAM

1½ cups heavy cream

1 3-inch square of beeswax 1 tsp. powdered gelatin

Whites of 2 medium eggs ¼ cup granulated sugar Salt to taste

Bee pollen for garnish

solved. Very slowly stream the creamgelatin mixture into egg whites, whisking as you go (don’t do this too fast or you’ll cook the eggs). Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer into a

medium bowl and chill in the refrigerator, about 30 minutes. Season with a

pinch of salt. Add to an iSi canister and charge with one charge.

5. To serve, place almond tart pieces in individual serving bowls and add a

generous dollop of compote. Cover with beeswax cream. Garnish with bee pollen.

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

59

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2/21/22 3:52 3:51 PM

REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE NEW BLACK WEST, PHOTOGRAPHS FROM AMERICA’S ONLY TOURING BLACK RODEO BY GABRIELA HASBUN, PUBLISHED BY CHRONICLE BOOKS 2022.

T R AV E L

&

ESCAPES

Riding Forward

Nearly four decades after its founding, the West’s oldest Black rodeo continues to redefine the sport.

Story by MAG DALE NA O ’ N EAL Photographs by GAB RI E L A HAS B U N GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

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The Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo comes to Oakland, California, two days a year to remind the community and educate future generations about just how deep their Western roots are. The smell of fried delicacies like catfish and hush puppies waft through the air.

Black cowboys atop horses file into the arena in their finest attire, some wave an African American flag in the sky.

The country’s only touring Black rodeo brings together local vendors, over a dozen different food offerings, three hours of rodeo programming, and a space, as my grandma describes, “where you can see Black people shine in a positive light and share their culture and history.”

When I was growing up in Oakland, almost every event, park, or public space had some sort of historical significance. My high school was in the Fox Theater, a historical landmark that opened in 1928. I frequented community events with friends in DeFremery Park, a popular meeting place for members of the Black Panther Party back in the ’60s. The city isn’t just a hub for tech, great food, or bay views. To this day, small plaques adhere to downtown buildings, often missed by passersby.

Now, the rodeo’s presence in the Bay Area is immortalized in a book of photographs captured through the lens of photographer and 10-year attendee Gabriela Hasbun. Hasbun has spent the last few years compiling her images, interviews with riders, and stories from the rodeo into her first book, The New Black West: Photographs From America’s Only Touring Black Rodeo. “I take great pride in sharing their stories,” Hasbun tells us. “I find that Black history is so often misrepresented in this country and anything I can do to help and repair that I will do.”

The rodeo celebrates its 38th anniversary this year and returns to touring the country, facilitating the sharing of culture, creation of community space, and celebration of Black cowboys and cowgirls in the West. The book arrives as a resource to preserve the history and legacy of the riders, giving them an opportunity to tell their own stories alongside Hasbun’s captivating images.

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An Unspoken History

In 1977, Lu Vason, one of the biggest entertainment promoters in the West at the time, attended the Cheyenne Frontier Days rodeo in Wyoming. He noticed a void: There wasn’t a single African American rider or competitor. This observation set Vason on a mission to learn the history of Black cowboys and cowgirls during the late 19th century.

“The Black cowboy wasn’t misunderstood. He was left out and unspoken about,” according to Larry Callies, founder of The Black Cowboy Museum in Rosenberg, Texas. “The word cowboy was first used in the West to describe slaves. There were house boys, field boys, and cow boys.” White men were referred to as “cattle men, cow drivers, or cow punchers,” Callies continues, “until Hollywood heard about cowboys.”

Opposite page: A young boy watches as a cowboy displays a flag saluting BPIR founder Lu Vason. The first Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo was held in Denver in 1984. Vason died in 2015 at age 76. After his death, his wife, Valeria Howard-Cunningham, took charge of the BPIR. She is the only Black woman CEO and promoter of a national touring rodeo company.

Mother and daughter cowgirls from Atlanta, Adrian Vance and Ronnie Franks (in red), sit behind the scenes, where contestants watch the spectacle in the arena. “Black rodeo is a celebration of African American history and culture. We ride on behalf of those who did not have the opportunity to do so,” said Ronnie, 13 years after Hasbun took this photo in 2008.

This page, clockwise from top left: Mr. Theus, here in 2009, had attended all 35 rodeos at Rowell Ranch Rodeo Park as of 2019, since the rodeo’s arrival in Oakland in 1986. He recalls taking Vason out to visit the rodeo grounds before choosing the site as the venue for the Oakland BPIR. Both he and Vason owned hair salons in Oakland and shared a passion for Black cowboy heritage.

A veteran bull rider, Leroy Patterson Jr. travels nationally to train young bull riders. He is well known for wearing his snakeskin cowboy boots, pictured here in 2017. “I had these boots handmade in Tijuana,” he said. “Five hundred bucks.

That was cheap.”

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Vason became a “student of history,” according to Jeff Douvel, a regional coordinator of the BPIR in the Bay Area.

That included learning about Bill Pickett, a Black cowboy who was known for inventing the rodeo event called bulldogging, which involves jumping onto a bull from a horse and wrestling it to the ground. Long after his participation in once all-white rodeos back in 1905, Pickett went on to become the first Black cowboy inducted into the ProRodeo Hall of Fame in 1989, years after his untimely death in 1932 due to injuries inflicted by being kicked by a horse.

While the role of the African American cowboy is often left out and misinterpreted in Hollywood depictions—recently in a Netflix movie with a character named after Pickett who is portrayed as a gun-slinging bad boy riding bareback—“the real history of the African American cowboy and cowgirl is so much deeper than that,” Douvel says.

The presence of Black cowboys and cowgirls created a community and job opportunities that later made way for the Great Migration of the early 20th century, when nearly six million Black people came West (and headed north) from southeastern states. To make this history accessible to all, and to offer a solution to the lack of representation in popular traveling rodeos at the time, Vason founded the Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo in 1984.

“Lu created the rodeo so the truth could be told,” Douvel says. “We have told that story by showing the African American cowboy and cowgirl in their true light by traveling across the country.”

‘Nobody Can Ignore a Black Woman on a Horse’

Hasbun first attended the rodeo in 2001. “My neighbor is from the South and she wanted fried catfish,” Hasbun tells us. “She told me to get my camera and that we were going to the rodeo. I grew up in El Salvador so I had never been to the rodeo. I got there and was blown away.”

Hasbun returned year after year with her camera to take pictures of competitors as they entered the arena and attendees dressed to impress. Along the way, she formed personal relationships with the riders who inspired her beyond those forged in her day-to-day editorial photography.

“Everyone at the rodeo is warm and welcoming; it’s one of the kindest and most humbling communities I’ve had the honor of photographing,” she says.

In the book, Hasbun included an image of and quote from a rider named Brianna Noble on her horse during a Black Lives Matter protest in DeFremery Park in June 2020. “People seemed more concerned about the destruction that would take place in our city, you know, the broken windows and stuff like that,” Noble told Hasbun.

“They’re more angered by that than they are at the loss of life. So in an effort to change the narrative, I’m like, ‘OK, well maybe I can change the headlines.’ So that’s why I decided to take my horse down there. My entire life I’ve been ignored. The only time in my life I have not been ignored is when I’m sitting on a horse. It seems like nobody can ignore a Black woman on a horse.”

“The only time in my life I have not been ignored is when I’m sitting on a horse.”

— R I D E R B R I A N NA N O B L E

Generational Ties

Opposite page: Two junior rodeo champions at the 2018 BPIR, Harold Williams Jr. (in chaps) and Lindon Demery. “My whole family rodeos,” Lindon explains, “and it became something I wanted to do. I started riding around age two and immediately started participating at the BPIR.” Lindon participates in junior breakaway roping, steer riding, barrel racing, and tiedown. He won his first saddle at a rodeo in Oklahoma as a reward for being the YearEnd Calf Roping Champion.

As a member of a large family with roots spanning all the way to Arkansas, I get together with my distant paternal relatives once a year at our annual reunion. There’s always a feast, including fish caught by my father and his friends, white elephant-style gift exchanges, and arguments over domino matches. But a couple of years ago, my grandma’s cousin “sent out an email saying a few of us should get together in addition to our annual family picnic,” my grandma, Vivian O’Neal, tells me. That cousin suggested the rodeo.

My grandma was born and raised in San Francisco and grew up seeing rodeos televised at home but had never attended one. That changed after a Bill Pickett event. “It was really exciting to see all these Black people on horses, especially the women and cowgirls doing rope tricks and whatnot,” she tells me. Her uncle and his son were actually a part of the Black Cowboys Association, which she didn’t know until she opened the Oakland Tribune in the ’80s and saw her uncle “on a horse riding down Broadway.”

Familial ties to and at the rodeo are plentiful in the Bay Area, Douvel tells me. “Even the children who participate in the rodeo are part of rodeo families. Children start participating as early as 4 and 5 years old. There are three or four generations participating in the rodeo at once sometimes.”

Douvel’s son first talked his way onto a bull at age 12 while hanging out in the back of the arena. “He had convinced one of the cowboys into letting him get onto one of the practice bulls, which is still 2,000 lbs. of bull,” Douvel recalls. “He only stayed on about three seconds and got thrown in the air about 6 feet and scrambled out of the arena. But from that day through high school and into college, he was a bull rider.”

Watching riders grow and mature over the years was a highlight, Hasbun says. The cowgirl on the book’s front cover, for example, “is now a mom of two and her two daughters ride and compete. A lot can happen in 12 years,” Hasbun says.

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EXPERIENCE A PIECE OF HISTORY THE BILL PICKETT INVITATIONAL RODEO IS BACK WITH A FULL SLATE OF NATIONAL EVENTS. HERE ARE A FEW STOPS WHERE YOU CAN CATCH THE RODEO IN 2022:

JULY 9-10

Oakland, California

JULY 16-17

Los Angeles, California

AUG. 6-7 Atlanta, Georgia

See the full schedule at billpickettrodeo.com

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SEPT. 24

Washington, DC

She met riders as young as 7 who are now in their late teens, parents who later turned into grandparents, and locals who always put on their finest attire. “One of the contestants used to have several beauty salons in Oakland and he’s been one of the most decorated cowboys at the rodeo for the last 20 years or so,” Hasbun tells me. “He’s a legend and still rides every day at 85. He has a community of people he’s supported and helped get into rodeo. That’s one of the most beautiful things about the community—that they’re constantly helping each other.”

Hasbun has “created a special tribute because everyone in that book can go down in history,” Douvel says. “We are bringing culture to a community that has been denied its part.”

Opposite page: Ronald Jennings III, age 12 in this photo, was visiting the Bay Area in 2019 to attend the BPIR with his family from Texas. “I had to take care of all the steers and bulls at the rodeo and on my parents’ ranch,” he says.

“Having horses is a big responsibility. We have to do a lot of work to keep the ranch in shape.”

This page: At this heritage rodeo, families in Oakland come to honor the Black cowboys who helped settle the West.

More than 8,000 Black cowboys rode in the Western cattle drives of the late 19th century. This image is from 2018.

GET THE BOOK

The New Black West, Photographs From America’s Only Touring Black Rodeo is out this May; $40 at chroniclebooks.com

FIELD

D R E of

WITH A DEEP RESPECT FOR THE RIO GRANDE VALLEY—ITS BEAUTY, HISTORY, AND UNIQUE CULTURE—THE REMBE FAMILY TRANSFORMED THEIR HACIENDA AND RANCH, LOS POBLANOS, INTO A THRIVING, ENVIRONMENTALLY SENSITIVE LAVENDER FARM, AND ONE OF AMERICA’S MOST OUTSTANDING INNS. Story by CH RI STI N E LE N N O N Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY Sunset pg 68

A M S

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IF

you’re thinking about spending some time at Los Poblanos, the 45-room historic inn and organic farm in Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, a neighborhood northwest of New Mexico’s capital city in the bosque along the Rio Grande, forget anything you’ve preconceived about the tourist’s journey through New Mexico. Erase your expectations around turquoise and silver belt buckles, Kokopelli figures, and heavy, hanging ristras of dried chiles.

Actually, don’t forget about ristras. They’re the coolest.

But if you’re going to Los Poblanos, it’s best to clear your mind of any clichés around traveling through the Southwest. Make space for something more layered, earthy, and unique to one of the country’s last distinctive places.

Matt Rembe, who grew up on the property and is now the executive director of the hacienda-turned-hotel, its celebrated restaurant, Campo, and the farm’s thriving lavender business, jokingly calls his hometown the “last un-hip place in America.” And he’s right. It’s so much better than hip.

Roughly eight years ago, when the property had first expanded from a six-room bed and breakfast to a 20-room

A recent expansion bumped the inn up to 45 guest rooms. The hacienda was originally designed by architect John Gaw Meem, known as the godfather of Santa Fe style.

Today, the property is home to a larger restaurant, bar, butchery, bakery, and bigger retail shop.

inn, I booked a stay for my family on the recommendation of my friend, Genevieve, who knows me so well that she didn’t bother with a lengthy pitch about why we should go.

“You will love it,” she said. “It’s exactly your kind of thing.”

My kind of thing is well-established among my confidantes, and best described (with some gentle mocking) as “simple fancy.” Allow me to explain: If a design is too simple, it can feel under-planned and uncomfortably spare. If it’s too fancy or contrived, or too “luxury,” it can feel ostentatious and icky. Not many people value restraint these days, and as a result, the “fine hotels” of the world are stuck in an unimaginative loop of glossy marble and crystal chandeliers that feels wrong and boring about 99% of the time.

Getting that balance right —equal parts simple and fancy— is an art form. Los Poblanos gets it right.

That point is made clear as soon as you drive through the allée of cottonwood and elm trees that line the entrance.

You pull in, absorb your surroundings, stroll through the rows of lavender and inhale the scent, look toward the Sandia Mountains, watch and listen to the cranes fly low over the landscape, and admire the 1930s-era farm buildings.

Then you walk inside and notice its collected, vintage light fixtures; smooth, thick walls; thoughtful, quality artwork; and antiques. Nearly everything here that isn’t vintage is

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Peacocks roam the land, where the climate is just right for lavender to thrive.

The plants are are processed in copper sills.

Nearly everything at Los Poblanos that isn’t vintage is handmade locally, pulled together in a refined yet rustic and purpose-led style.

Soaps, lotions, and salves are made right in Albuquerque with oil derived from approximately 5,000 lbs. of lavender harvested on Los Poblanos’ farm.

handmade locally, and it’s all pulled together in a style that combines refined Spanish Colonial flair with the rustic purpose-led simplicity of ranch life. You can sense, immediately, that you’re immersed in a world of unpretentious ease and good taste. “That started with my mom,” Rembe says. “Penny puts Martha Stewart to shame.”

In 1976, Armin and Penny Rembe purchased the John Gaw Meem-designed Pueblo Revival-style hacienda—originally built in 1932 and now home to the inn’s new spa—along with surrounding acreage. Meem, who is known as the godfather of Santa Fe style, combined humble adobe style with colonial formality, creating a mash-up of new and old architecture for which the region is known. The structure was one of Meem’s residential masterpieces, with a Spanish courtyard that dripped with Lady Banks’ roses and lush greenery, a Moorish fountain, massive carved doors, and kiva fireplaces. “We lived here on about 12 acres,” Matt says, “of a ranch that used to be many thousands of acres.” Armin’s sister, Victoria, and her husband bought another parcel, La Quinta, which is now the site of the Los Poblanos event spaces.

“Farmin’ Armin,” who just passed away last year, was a deeply respected oncologist, rancher, and master beekeeper. Penny, a businesswoman and philanthropist who still lives on the property at age 83, came from a prosperous ranching family in Amarillo, and was a natural host and entertainer. They moved in to work the land, make sure their four children knew how to rope and steer and manage a farm, and restore the 1932 buildings to their former glory.

“When my parents bought the place, they knew the history, and that the buildings were important,” Matt says.

Meem was hired to design the property

by Ruth Hanna McCormick Simms, a oneterm congresswoman from Illinois who met her husband, Albert Simms, a New Mexico representative, on the house floor.

The house was the site of the first swimming pool in the state. McCormick Simms hired famed garden designer Rose Greely to design the formal gardens, featuring vibrant flower beds irrigated with river water, Spanish tile fountains, rose cutting gardens, winding pathways, and those now-mature cottonwood trees.

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“Some people are perplexed by the property.

They can’t tell what’s new and what’s historic.”

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The property is a paradise for birds and insects like the hundreds of species of native bees. There’s a lotus pond and trees growing cherries, apricots, pomegranates, figs, apples, plums and pears.

Herbs, artichokes, and cardoons are laced throughout the landscape.

“It was an experimental farm in the 1930s, and we were always progressive and thoughtful and good stewards of the land, caring for the architecture and the gardens,” Matt says. “It’s not too precious here. For one, it’s New Mexico, so that doesn’t really work. We always talk about what’s authentic, and we don’t want to make it feel overly designed.”

The Rembes were empty-nesters in the ’90s when the La Quinta side of the property went up for sale. There were buyers circling who wanted to turn the 10 acres into a subdivision. So the family bought it, and devised a plan to help

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defray the cost of maintaining a property and farm of that size by turning the hacienda into a small inn.

“They had no hospitality or restaurant experience,” Matt says. “It was complicated. There was a lot of overhead. I was working in the art world in New York and had started a small business back in New Mexico. Together, with my siblings, we started looking at agritourism in Europe, using some of those properties as models for how to preserve a place like this without turning it into a nonprofit, which never seems to work with a farm like this one. It took us

Throughout Los Poblanos, you’ll notice smooth, thick walls, quality artwork, and antiques.

some time to get the entitlements, and convince the neighbors in our little village that we were more preservation driven than profit driven.”

Over the years, the development of the land into an organic lavender farm and the addition of more rooms and event venues has been painstakingly managed. Historians, landscape architects, and native wildlife and plant experts have been consulted, and the growth of the property reflects this level of consideration and care. The first expansion was led by a Pasadena architect, Stefanos Polyzoides.

And the most recent incarnation, which bumped the

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property up to 45 guest rooms, with 20,000 square feet of communal and work space for a larger restaurant, bar, butchery, bakery, and bigger retail shop, was spearheaded

by Shawn Evans, a principal at Atkin Olshin Schade Architects, a firm with offices in Philadelphia and Santa Fe. Evans describes the property as “an oasis in the mountain desert” and a “remarkable hideaway where the past has managed to stay present.”

“The hotel has grown incrementally, which is really important to the success of the place,” says Evans, who points to traditional elements like zaguans, or covered walkways,

“Gracious living is an art form.

The best way to preserve something today is to allow gentle use of it.”

that connect the structures and are designed to frame the best views for guests, and light-filled courtyards that are protected from harsh exterior elements as some of the ways they kept the new structures connected to the past. “It’s such a treasured place, and the Rembe family had time to really know the place. They understood the landscape, the light, the culture, and the water much more than any architect could. There was family wisdom that’s been passed down to us.”

Evans describes the new buildings as humble but innovative, and they’re able to sit comfortably in the landscape.

Architect Shawn Evans spearheaded the most recent expansion and describes the property as “an oasis in the mountain desert.”

The firm collaborated with Matt on the interior design, folding in his expertise in art and antiques with their skill in modern materials. As a result, the line between past and present is blurred. “It’s a funny thing as an architect to see how some people are perplexed by the property. They can’t tell what’s new and what’s historic. That’s the mode we like to practice in,” Evans says.

The true magic may lie in the soil, which is rich with river silt. Judith Phillips, an accomplished garden designer, author, and expert on high desert gardens, consulted with the Rembes on both expansions, and worked closely with landscape architect Dennis McGlade on the latest iteration of the farm. The result of her efforts is a paradise for birds and insects like the hundreds of species of local, native bees.

There’s a healthy lotus pond and trees growing cherries, apricots, pomegranates, figs, apples, plums, pears, and jujubes. Herbs, artichokes, and cardoons are laced throughout the landscape.

And then there’s the lavender. The climate is just right for the plants to thrive. The Los Poblanos signature soaps, lotions, and salves are sold in about 400 boutiques nationwide, and all of the products are made right in Albuquerque with oil derived from approximately 5,000 lbs. of lavender harvested on the farm and processed in one of two copper stills on property.

“Gracious living is an art form,” says Philips, who is writing a book about the gardens to be published by the University of New Mexico Press. “I learned from Matt that the best way to preserve something today is to allow gentle use of it. It makes people appreciate the history of the property more. Penny and Armin set a standard there that this current generation is in step with and appreciates. It’s easy to connect the dots between what their children are doing now with what their childhood was like at Los Poblanos.

They instilled values in them. And Penny just knows how to be a hostess.”

After our family visit, I was so impressed by the graceful farm-inspired rooms that I came home and transformed our collapsing backyard garage into a barn of my own. In the middle of Los Angeles. If you’re as charmed as I was by Los Poblanos, you don’t have to hire a contractor and embark on a major remodel. You can invite some of that magic into your home by buying one of the many farm products they’re introducing in addition to the lavender line. Using produce from the fruit trees and vegetables grown there, and the know-how of the Campo chefs, they’re making condiments like green chile jam with modern New Mexican flavors.

Over the years, I’ve made a couple of unsuccessful attempts to return to the inn to revel in its latest incarnation, including a milestone birthday celebration that was canceled abruptly by a global pandemic. But if I close my eyes and concentrate, I can smell the bosque—the spicy piñon, the musky scent of the cottonwood leaves, and the sweet, astringent lavender—and be whisked right back to the high desert, and a small corner of land where the past and present collide in the most memorable way.

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WILDLANDS

Utah’s Canyon Country

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Get OU T

JOIN A CAMP YOSHI TRIP AND DISCOVER MORE THAN JUST AN OUTDOOR ADVENTURE.

There

Story by J. D. S I M KI N S Photographs by ALEX FO RESTI E R

Far removed from the deafening chorus of politically charged commentary, civil unrest, and social media venom that pervaded summer 2020, Rashad Frazier, his wife, Shequeita, and his brother, Ron, took refuge among the imposing peaks and azure lakes of Montana’s Glacier National Park.

The temporary respite from societal turbulence, however, was not without its interruptions from the outside world. Calls and texts poured in from concerned friends and relatives whose eyes were fixated on a tumultuous news cycle following the May 2020 killing of George Floyd at the hands of a Minneapolis police officer.

“With everything going on in the news, people were asking us where we were, why we were there, and if we were safe,” Ron says.

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Unveiling the purpose of their brief expedition steadily eased those concerns, and before hanging up, Ron, a real estate auditor, would extend two simple words of encouragement to the voices on the other end of the call: Join us.

“We thought, rather than tell people how we were thriving in these spaces, why not just show them?”

Ron recalls.

The idea that would become Camp Yoshi was off and running. A successful beta trip to Oregon with a dozen friends ensued, setting the stage for meticulously crafted voyages designed to bring together people of color and their allies in outdoor spaces too often considered exclusionary.

“So much of the conversation with our guests centers around the intimidation that comes with not seeing people in the outdoors who look like them,” says Shequeita, who brought a background in corporate retail to Camp Yoshi’s branding and consumer strategies. “To hear that so often just motivates us to do this even more.”

Intimidation associated with exclusivity is something Shequeita is all too familiar with. Unlike longtime outdoors enthusiasts Ron and Rashad, she was “the reluctant camper” of the group when they first kicked around the idea for Camp Yoshi.

“I used to be the wife sitting at home asking them, ‘Are you sure you want to be off the map for two weeks with just a satellite phone?’”

Shequeita says. “It was just not something I grew up doing in South Carolina. There is a lot of trauma associated with the outdoors in places like where I’m from. Black people traditionally have not had access to those spaces.”

Recasting skepticism into enthusiasm was made a bit easier when the couple moved to Portland, where the region’s evergreen forests, Cascade mountains, and picturesque lakes obliterated Shequeita’s once-held notions about the outdoors.

Bringing the Frazier crew’s disarming flair and unique flavor along for the ride didn’t hurt either.

PHOTOGRAPHS: @ALEXFORESTIER_

A family-style dinner in southern Utah

WILDLANDS

Join The Adventure

CAMP YOSHI’S FOUNDERS ARE LOOKING FORWARD TO THESE TRIPS IN 2022.

JUNE: OREGON OUTBACK

From evergreen forests to the high desert, Oregon’s smorgas-

bord of landscapes offers something for everyone. See for yourself what makes the Beaver State so special with this four-day,

three-night adventure through its southeast interior with stops

in Bend, the Alvord Desert Playa, hot springs, and Steens moun-

tain. This trip covers significant ground, traversing long distanc-

es through an array of environments where the travel itself offers unparalleled opportunities for outdoor gratification. “It will challenge your patience,” the founders say, “but if you brave the sprawling stretches, the rewards are indescribable.”

AUGUST: COLORADO ALPINE TOUR

Journey with the Camp Yoshi crew to Colorado’s San Juan

Mountains (pictured above) to enjoy four days and three nights of snow-capped mountains, ghost-town visits, and thrilling offroading on trails that ascend beyond the cloud line. The tour takes campers from Montrose to

Ouray before capping off in Tellu-

ride. The best part? Each leg of the trip uses fire roads and mountain

trails. “To call this an overland adventure would be an understate-

A camper enjoys the high desert in central Oregon

ment,” the Camp Yoshi crew says.

To learn more, visit campyoshi.com

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WILDLANDS

“Food was a big component of Camp Yoshi from the get-go,” says Rashad, who was at the helm of the New York-based catering company Yoshi Jenkins—hence the name—at the time of Camp Yoshi’s inception. “People come out here to have a good time, but we’re definitely going to make sure they’re eating well. We’re not just throwing granola bars at you.”

For Ron, who now spearheads the logistics of the outings, Camp Yoshi

was a realization of something long overdue.

“Folks have been waiting for this,” he says. “They just didn’t know where or how. Our role is to say, ‘Hey, you can be in these areas, you can explore, and you can thrive.’”

Four- and five-day excursions to remote corners of the Pacific Northwest, Rocky Mountains, and Southwest have provided guests with experiences so indelible that the crew at

Camp Yoshi Trips:

By The Numbers

4

nights under the stars

3

days in the wilderness

10-12

adults ages 21+ on each trip

$2,950 per person, including equipment, vehicles, fuel, food, drinks, camp guides, and more

Death Valley, California

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Camp Yoshi expanded from seven trips in 2021 to over 20 this year.

Each trip sees guests outfitted with all necessary camping equipment, daily gourmet cooking, and a throng of overlanding, rafting, and hiking adventures. Educational opportunities allow campers to learn about ecosystems unique to particular destinations, and “Leave No Trace” principles ensure these spaces will be preserved for generations to come.

“You just have to show up and allow yourself to tap into being thoughtful and present,” Rashad says.

“We take care of the rest.”

A soaring rate of campers returning for second or third Camp Yoshi iterations is a testament to the trio’s skill in crafting welcoming environs, but one ongoing surprise for the founders has been the overwhelming rate of female participants. Today, about 80% of Camp Yoshi’s rapidly growing attendance list are women.

“You just don’t see that,” Shequeita says. “Most of these women never thought about the healing power of the outdoors until they came across Camp Yoshi. Taking that leap with us sparked joy. It sparked inspiration.

We’re proving we belong in these spaces and we can find the same type of restoration as any other group.”

Once the apprehensive camper, Shequeita now sees in many of her guests the same misgivings that once inhibited her sense of exploration—a dearth of similar faces, beliefs, or cultural experiences, and the precarity that permeates as a result.

Two years removed from their first trip, the Fraziers believe they are just scratching the surface of what Camp Yoshi can do as a community-builder that demystifies what it means to belong. Theirs is a blossoming tradition designed to appeal to the non-traditional. There’s healing here. There’s community. There’s belonging.

“When I moved West, it was really the first time I saw what was so special about the outdoors. It was my first time realizing I want to be immersed in it, that I want my kids immersed in it,” Shequeita says. “I want them to avoid the trauma and fear I once knew.”

Camp Yoshi founders Ron, Shequeita, and Rashad Frazier

Oregon’s John Day River

Must-Have Gear RASHAD AND RON FRAZIER NEVER LEAVE THESE TOOLS BEHIND.

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device a few years back so I could keep in touch using the text message feature, and it allows my family to

“Snow Peak’s Takibi Tarp Octa is one of the tools we

course, the Garmin’s SOS

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track my movements. And of feature is great to have in the event I ever have an

emergency.” STARTING AT $400; SUBSCRIPTION PLANS START AT $11.95 PER MONTH; GARMIN.COM

bring on every adventure,” Rashad says. “It’s the

fireproof tarp. It shields our campers from rain and

wind, while still allowing you to have a legit fire un-

derneath. There’s no longer any need to worry about keeping warm and dry … and the s’mores just hit different when the Octa comes out.” $720; SNOWPEAK.COM

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

85

Insider NORTHWEST The insider: Léa Rainey and Zach Yunker, owners of Roots Zero Waste Market

Head east just beyond Boise, and you’ll find Roots Zero Waste Market in Garden City, a must-stop on any trip to Idaho’s capital. Bring your own jar to stock up on beans, vinegars, and spices. Leá Rainey and Zach Yunker opened the shop to help you “buy the amount you need when you need it,” as they say. Here are their favorite spots in the two cities.

to the only Anne Frank

Memorial in the country;

it’s near the Boise Greenbelt, which winds along the Boise River. While

you’re cruising around

town, turn on KRBX Radio Boise 89.9 or 93.5 FM

downtown. “Or throw on some headphones and

DRINK: Start your day at Garden City’s adorable coffee

shop Push & Pour, where

the breakfast sandos are

pick new vinyl or a CD at The Record Exchange,”

sandwiches and spicy

Bacon jam and cheese

104, where you pick the

prawn fettuccine abound

under the pink shimmer-

ing tree” at Cherie Buckner-Webb Park, Rainey

says. Boise is also home

at The Hyde House, where you’ll eat inside the 1890s historic home or outside

on the dog-friendly patio.

Located in an area called the Boise Bench, Petite 4 offers French-inspired fare like chorizo cro-

quettes and vol-au-vent.

Petite 4 86

seat in the cafe for

espresso and baked

French toast topped with praline. Alternatively, you can find eclectic acces-

sories, trinkets, and home

goods at Crazy Neighbor and Hyde and Seek.

a’Tavola

at Boise cocktail bar Suite

“Take a break and swing

marketplace, or take a

ers anymore?”

EAT:

DO:

Grab a gift at a’Tavola

cars even have CD play-

Later, order a Method 104

care of the rest.

SHOP:

Rainey says. “Do rental

as delicious as the roasts.

spirit and bartenders take

The Hyde Housee

SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

Push & Pour

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF ROOTS ZERO WASTE MARKET; COURTESY OF THE HYDE HOUSE; SIMPLICITY BY MEGAN WRIGHT; COURTESY OF PUSH & POUR; TARA COWDRY

This month: Boise, Idaho

Seasonal diversions and secret travel tips from local experts.

Hotel Lahaina

Maui Ku’ia Estate

Maui Brewing Co.

DRINK: Maui Brewing Co. boasts “Maui’s finest craft-

brewed beers, ales, and

hard seltzers, made with

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: © MIEKO HORIKOSHI 2021; MAUI KU’IA ESTATE CHOCOLATE; COURTESY OF PAPA’AINA; MAUI BREWING CO.

local Hawaiian-grown ingredients.” A tour of Ha-

STAY: Lahaina town, Maui’s his-

toric whaling village, is “a

hot spot for art, shopping, and dining, in addition to

This month: Lahaina, Maui The insider: Lee Anne Wong, chef at Papa´aina

waii Sea Spirits Distillery is “the picture-perfect

way to spend an after-

noon or early evening.”

its pristine beaches,”

DO:

renovated Hotel Lahaina

Wong says. “There are nu-

Wong says. The newly

“Get out on the water,”

THE PACIFIC

is “home to Lahaina Grill,

merous boat tours that

Walk into the Best Western Pioneer Inn, and you’re stepping into a piece of history; the hotel has been operating on Maui since 1901.

“Every room boasts a second-floor outdoor lanai that overlooks either busy Front Street and one of the largest banyan trees in the country, or the peacefully hidden historic courtyard on the interior of the hotel,” says Lee Anne Wong, a previous Top Chef contestant and producer who’s now behind the onsite restaurant Papa´aina. The menu features “locally sourced and inspired brunch fare,” Wong says, like macadamia nut ricotta pancakes and crispy ramen with kalua pork. Here are the chef’s mustvisit stops in Lahaina and beyond.

Sale Pepe owners Qiana

one of Maui’s legendary dinner spots.”

depart from Lahaina,” in-

cluding Teralani, Sail Tril-

ogy, and Sail Maui. Or

EAT: and Michele DiBari “bring a taste of Italy to Maui,”

take a farm tour at Maui Ku’ia Estate Chocolate Factory.

Wong says, “focusing on

SHOP:

handmade pastas.” Moku

Old Lahaina is the heart of

Hawaii’s best vegetarian

Upcountry Farmers Mar-

hand-tossed pizzas and

Roots is “serving some of and vegan cuisine.” For

modern Hawaiian, book a

multi-course meal at chef Jojo Vasquez’s monthly

chef’s counter at Fond. “If

you’re lucky,” Wong says, Vasquez’s wife, Eliza, will showcase her “DJ skills, setting the mood and

food with beats to match.”

“Front Street in historic

shopping.” The Saturday ket is “essentially why I left Oahu to move to

Maui,” Wong adds. It’s “a

literal cornucopia of fresh fruit, vegetables, meat

and seafood, prepared

foods, flowers, plants, and

artisan products. Get here early to get the best selection and bring cash.”

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

87

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Atticus Hotel

Red Hills Kitchen

Dave and Lois Cho took a nontraditional route to winemaking. The couple busked before performing in Southern California wineries, and a stopover to meditate with monks in Burgundy further cemented Dave’s appreciation for a shared meal over a humble bottle. Now he and Lois, a family nurse practitioner, source grapes from Oregon’s Willamette Valley to cultivate expressions of Pinot Noir, pét-nats, and more.

Here are their recommendations from McMinnville to Dundee and Newberg.

STAY: “If you can, plan ahead

and score a room at the Atticus Hotel; this is the swanky place to stay in

Mac,” which is what the

The insider: Dave and Lois Cho, founders of CHO Wines

locals call McMinnville, Lois says.

Stoller Family Estates

EAT: Just downstairs from the

hotel is Red Hills Kitchen,

a “favorite date-night

spot,” Lois says. “We love their seasonal menu of-

ferings and vast wine list, including our 2015 CHO

Blanc de Noirs. The Pantry within RHK has a lot of gr-

ab-and-go items from local producers.” If ​​ you’re

looking for more casual

fare, venture out to sister

restaurant Red Hills Mar-

ket in Dundee for “a large selection of wine, beer, and picnic items.”

DRINK:

DO:

SHOP:

Need a break from wine?

“We hope to have a CHO

Mac Market is a “must-

ter Monk for happy hour,

2023. To hold you over un-

spot in McMinnville.

“We often stop by The Bit-

or play a round of the Llama Card Game at Con-

servatory Bar in McMinnville over cocktails with friends,” Lois says.

Wines tasting room by

til then, say ‘hi’ to some of Dave’s industry friends at Argyle Winery in

Dundee.” If you’re travel-

ing with young kids, “head on over to Stoller Family

Estates in Dayton, where

they can take turns on the tire swing to their heart’s

Mac Market

88

SUNSET • GARDEN ISSUE 2022

content.”

visit” eclectic gathering “There’s a little bit of everything for everyone,”

from plants and locally

sourced produce to wine.

“Check out First Street

Farmers Market in McMinnville from May to October!”

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BRYAN RUPP; © SIONNIE LAFOLLETTE 2018; MINDY GIMARELLI; DIANA RIGGS; GREG KRAMER

This month: Willamette Valley, Oregon

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA Sticky rice and mango. Pandan tres leches.

Abuelita malted crunch. These are a few of the ice cream flavors you can order at Wanderlust Creamery, the popular Los Angeles shop that ships pints nationwide. Founder Adrienne Borlongan grew up in the San Fernando Valley, where she says she developed “a passion for food and multiculturalism,” before going on to stints in food manufacturing and mixology.

She started Wanderlust to share scoops “inspired by travel and childhood memories.” So, we asked for her must-visit spots in the valley.

STAY: Bill’s Airbnbs include “a number of properties

nestled in the mountains

This month: San Fernando Valley The insider: Adrienne Borlongan, founder and chef at Wanderlust Creamery

of Topanga Canyon just

above the San Fernando Valley,” Borlongan says.

“They are truly unique and one-of-a-kind experienc-

that had a no-frills sushi

door/outdoor living space

simple menu serving only

es including a colorful inwith a view to die for, a

‘Topanga Treehouse’ perfect for rustic glamping, or ‘Rainbow Studio,’ a

candy colored den/patio that feels like a Y2K teenage sleepover.”

EAT: Go’s Mart was the Borlongan family’s “weekly sushi

Wat Thai Temple

spot back in the late ’90s when it was a tiny Japanese market/VHS store

counter in the back with a the basics,” Borlongan

says. “Nowadays, it’s the

city’s best kept secret. It’s still unassuming and no frills, but meals here will

run you $200+ for worldclass, Michelin-worthy

omakase.” Head to Pasta | Bar and sister restaurant

Sushi | Bar to experience buzzy, upscale Michelinstarred concepts.

DO: Every weekend, Wat Thai Temple in North Holly-

wood “hosts an outdoor food market that transports you to the night

markets of Bangkok,” Borlongan says. “For as little as $5, you can get yourself a heaping plate of

hot noodles made start to finish right in front of your face, shiny grilled meats

on skewers, the most auCLOCKWISE FROM BORLONGAN: ALEC PEREZ; LIAM BROWN; WASIM MUKLASHY; LIAM BROWN; COURTESY OF LA TOURISM

Pasta | Bar

thentic papaya salad,

and my favorite: kanom

krok, salty-sweet coconut

Bill’s Airbnbs

rice cakes fresh off the

griddle with a crispy, lacy

bottom and oozy creamy center topped with corn and scallions.”

SHOP: “It’s worth the trek to Hidden Treasures,” Borlon-

Sushi | Bar

gan says, which is “tucked away in a colorful house

on the side of the road.” If you’re “down to roll up

your sleeves and dig a little deeper for gold,” visit Universal Thrift. “I’ve

found Alexander Wang

shoes, Prada jackets, and Missoni dresses for (no joke) less than $25.”

GARDEN ISSUE 2022 • SUNSET

89

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Travel Planner ALASKA

CANADA

Be inspired by the light of the Aurora Borealis. Renew your energy under the Midnight Sun. Experience the warmth of Fairbanks—Alaska’s Golden Heart—and the basecamp to Denali, Interior and Arctic Alaska.

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CALIFORNIA

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CALIFORNIA

UNITY M OM

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OREGON’S ONLY NATIONAL PARK CRATER LAKE IS 50 MILES NORTH OF MEDFORD

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Dave Ramsay and Matt Felser are on a mission to make mobile living more accessible.

Interview by MAG DALE NA O ’ N EAL

Dave Ramsay and Matt Felser know what it’s like to live on the road. While working as a teacher, Felser spent four months converting his van into a “personal travel vehicle” for trips after realizing that if he “wanted something affordable, I would have to build it myself.” Ramsay left a New York City finance job to start his own business, prompting a need to cut back. “I could live in someone’s basement or finance a van to live in,” Ramsay recalls. “I went with the van.”

Fast forward 10 years: The Colorado duo started Dave & Matt Vans, creating affordable vans with rental and financing options to destigmatize the idea that the lifestyle needs to be expensive. “We came up with the tagline ‘Live What You Love,’ because we want van life to enable people to follow any dream, outdoors or not,” Ramsay says. So, we caught up with the pair to talk about their vision to diversify and expand what van life looks like in the West.

What features set apart your

value—we’ve seen our vehicles hold

Felser: All of our vehicles come with

Ramsay: What’s unique about our

base vans?

everything you need and nothing you

don’t at a price you can afford. There’s a lot of space for people to bring

themselves into the vans—we don’t

add a bunch of stuff. Our bare-bones [models] have full electrical; every-

thing runs off a battery system that

charges off a solar panel and while you drive.

Ramsay: We don’t put a wet bath in

our vans—a room with a toilet and a shower—which we think is a huge

their value for a year or two.

approach is that we actually lived

the lifestyle, which we realized a lot of the big owners don’t and didn’t

do. It’s actually pretty hard to strip a vehicle down to just the essentials, so we had to be thoughtful based on our experiences about what

people need no matter what. Once

we took away a lot of the extras, we were able to offer a base model at a more reasonable price.

waste of space. All of our toilet options

Can you tell us about your “Diver-

showers which you can set up in just a

courages van life for more people

tuck into storage options as well as the few minutes. We take a minimalistic

approach, which has created a unique vehicle in our market.

How do your financing options make van life more affordable?

Felser: It stems from our mission to

make van life accessible for everybody and that starts with a price point. We can’t offer access to people if they

can’t afford it, so making it an option that is attainable is important to us.

We partnered with a financial compa-

ny that will help offer loans for our customers to borrow as much or as little as they need to finance one of our

cars. By living in your van, that one

loan payment can be your rent and

car payment in one—plus these assets

hold their value. Unlike a vehicle—when you drive them off the lot, they lose

sify Van Life” project, which en-

of color in support of communityoriented goals?

Felser: A couple in L.A. was able to

start their business by living in one of our vans. We were able to sup-

port a prayer run for an Indigenous woman who ran 50 miles with the

safety of one of our vans at her side.

We know we have a voice and we

are using it to listen and learn from others while also amplifying and

communicating their needs to our

community, and the larger outdoors community as a whole.

Ramsay: A lot of people are focused on “Look how cool a van is,” and

that’s important to us but the van is secondary in our minds to reach a

broader goal. The van enables people to take shots at dreams that might not seem feasible.

SUNSET (ISSN 0039-5404) publishes 6 issues per year in regional and special editions by S. Media International Corporation, P.O. Box 15688 Beverly Hills, CA 90209. Periodicals postage paid at Oakland, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.) Nonpostal and military facilities: Send address corrections to Sunset Magazine, P.O. Box 3228, Harlan, IA 51593-0408.

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COURTESY OF DAVE & MATT VANS

VAN LIFE FOR ALL

LOCATION OLEA ALL SUITE HOTEL

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