Hearth and Home 2020 by SunsetMag

COMFORT FOOD BI

G REDS

Wine Guide &

B U B B LY

Home Hearth and

E V E RY T H I N G YO U N E E D TO C E L E B R AT E IN ST YLE

Winter

GARDENING

GUIDE COZY

COUNTRY Holiday GIFTS for

E VE RY

BUDGET

Kenya Knight and Taib Lotfi prepare for a feast at their Palm Springs home.

See the FREEÂ® P2 and more at leatherman.com

FOR THOSE WHO DO IT ALL,

GIVE THE GIFT THAT DOES IT ALL.

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Contents The Home and Hearth Issue

THOMAS J. STORY

KENYA KNIGHT PUTS THE FINISHING TOUCHES ON THE TREE IN HER PALM SPRINGS HOME.

Contents Home and Hearth

Front of the Book LETTER 6 EWeDITOR’S made it to the holidays. Who did we ride with?

EST OF THE WEST 9 BSeven pages of the ultimate

gifts for kids, cooks, gardeners, and more.

COOKIES, CAKES, AND CANDIES

We’ve got the essential short list of simple, can’t-fail seasonal sweets.

M ERRY MIXOLOGY

Festive and easy cocktails made with top-shelf spirits, seasonal flavors, and a shot of nostalgia.

OLIDAY MEALS 26 HFROM CHEFS

What are the best chefs in the West cooking for family? Roasts, stews, and braises with heart, soul, and major flavor.

More than any other year, it’s wine time. And we’ve got the ultimate guide to hearty reds and American sparklers perfect for a celebration.

R OMAN HOLIDAY

Evan Funke, L.A.’s prince of porchetta and pasta, cooks a feast inspired by the flavors of the Eternal City.

IG REDS AND B AMERICAN BUBBLY

Home & Garden

A SONOMA COUNTY CHRISTMAS A creative compound in wine country is the ultimate livework space—and a hygge haven perfect for celebrating the season.

Travel & Escapes

OZY COTTAGES & C REMOTE RETREATS These hotels in wintry locales are safe and stylish spots to get away from it all —near home.

HE LAST 80 TWILD THINGS

The inspiring journey of a horse trainer working to break barriers in a male-dominated industry while finding a herd of mustangs a new home.

INTER CHECKLIST 56 W What to do in your garden right now, wherever you are in the West.

N THE 60 IDESERT SPIRIT

The most stylish shop owners in the Palm Springs host a socially distanced holiday party in their midcentury home.

On our cover Kenya Knight and Taib Lotfi double down on the vintage vibes for the holidays in their 1968 Ford pickup truck outside their William Krisel–designed Palm Springs home.

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CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: REN FULLER; ©MICHAEL CHILCOAT/COURTESY OF THE RANCH AT ROCK CREEK; REN FULLER

Food & Drink

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Michael A. Reinstein David Steinhafel

CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER PUBLISHER EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Matt Bean

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Hugh Garvey

CREATIVE DIRECTION

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DIGITAL DIRECTOR

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A Holiday You’ve Earned There’s a totemic reverence for vintage trucks around our offices, a kind of aura that draws us to their simplicity, patina, timelessness. When we put them on the cover, or on social, you seem to agree: more like this, please, we hear. Hey, we aim to please. Their 1968 Ford pickup isn’t the reason Kenya and Taib are front and center for this much-needed Hearth and Home issue, however. They’re emblematic of the new Sunset—a design couple who, yes, run with the Instagram crowd importing like-able Moroccan rugs and who’ve designed their Palm Springs house just so. But key here is that they’re self-made. No silver spoons. No head starts. And when you talk to the couple, a certain timelessness emerges. They’re moving the past forward. Endlessly renewing, regenerating, re-integrating the best of it with pieces of the future that won’t flame out, flare up, or go dark. Another old soul? Try Jackie Kecskes (right), the horse whisperer we profile on page 80. Jackie leads the pack in mustang rehabilitation at a ranch in Montana, and her training techniques are what first drew me to the story. “No carrots,” she said. “I train them so that I’m the reward, not something easy.” Got me thinking about easy clicks, fast likes, stale trends. The challenge now is this: How can we pull together amid change and churn to celebrate the pastimes, the pursuits to which we assign meaning, that give us common ground instead of talking points? One of those ways is by breaking bread. Thanks to executive editor Hugh Garvey, the issue you’re holding or reading is chock full of recipes—23 in all, for blowing minds and filling bellies in your bubble this year. I’m happy to be his sous chef, on set, and in the kitchen—and in this issue, which is a tour de force for the creative powerhouse based in Los Angeles. Think about that this holiday season. Life’s about making great things with great people. Who’s in the kitchen, the saddle, or riding shotgun with you? MATT BEAN, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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ALL GOOD THINGS IN TIME Unparalleled. Complex. Makerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Reserve is worth the wait.

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Sustainable Seating N O H O MOV E C H A I R

NOHO

If you’re sold on a seated workstation, consider a chair that doesn’t look like it belongs on the space shuttle. This design-centric solution from B-Corp certified company Noho comes with swappable fabric covers and is made from a proprietary construction technology that allows it to bend organically with your body. Bonus: It’s made from recycled fishing nets and end-of-life carpets. As for the coverings, we’re partial to the “sunset” orange. $375, NOHO.CO

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For Kids Active, inquisitive, and empowered: That's the mission for all of the engaging gifts here. 1. Work Out, Then Hide Out

MONTI KIDS A C T I V I T Y GY M AND TENT

A smart solution from the Montessori set, this activity gym keeps babies engaged and energetic—and then converts into a tent when they’re in full toddler mode. $100 AND UP, MONTIKIDS.COM

2. Carve it Up LANDER S K AT E B O A R D

Made in Los Angeles from reinforced nylon and recycled materials, this ultralight, indestructible skateboard is modeled after the oldschool decks of the 1980s. It’s a great way to get started gleaming the cube. $139, L ANDER.L A

3. Drive in Dirt V E E R WA G O N

What do you get when you cross a mountain bike with a wagon? It might look something like this tow-and-stow solution perfect for a pair of tots. Thanks to built-in car seat mounts and adjustable add-ons like a cupholder, it’s the best solution for a growing adventure crew. $599, GOVEER.COM

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COURTESY OF C OMPANIES

Introducing

The Sunset Garden Apron 7. See Clearly OCULUS QUEST 2

4. Focus In KINDLE KIDS

Yeah, yeah, glowing screens are irresistible—but so are great books. Help them focus with this purposebuilt page-turner, which comes with one year free of Amazon Kids+. $110, AMAZON.COM

5. Snuggle like an Astronaut RUMPL NASA BLANKET

A collaboration with the real deal, these limited-edition blankets conjure up notions of anti-grav naps and lunar missions—making them perfect for stoking big dreams. $199, RUMPL.COM

6. Raise a Sous M I LT O N & GOOSE WOODEN FOOD REPLICAS

We’re drooling over this brand's spendy wooden kitchen replicas, but the affordable stunt food above is a more likely stocking stuffer for our tots. $32 AND UP, MILTONANDGOOSE.COM

The promise of virtual reality faded once the first headsets emerged: bulky, solitary, sweaty. But technology advances, and this powerful, high-resolution setup is not only light and simple, it’s also cheaper than ever. From immersive imaginary worlds to explore to 360-degree documentaries that help transport you to natural wonders, undersea and into space, there’s no better way to stay shut-in and safe but still escape. $299, OCULUS.COM

APRON: THOMAS J. STORY; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF COMPANIES

When we teamed up with the good people at White Bark Workwear to produce our first official Sunset garden apron we wanted it to be as sustainable and organic as the food we grow. Here’s what went into this ultimate holiday gift for gardeners, available now at shop.sunset.com for just $125. 1. 1 00 percent organic hemp is super strong, naturally antimicrobial, and produced from regenerative crops. 2. R oomy but slim profile utility pockets are gusseted to expand and provide extra space for tools, twine, and garden clippings and other types of yard debris. 3. 1 7 oz. weight fabric is breathable and 30 percent stronger than standard denim. 4. M odular utility loops are ready to take on carabiners, glove clips, and other accessories. 5. D ouble needle stitching and reinforced facing ensure that this apron will serve you for many seasons.

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For the Home These gifts are guaranteed to make hunkering down at home (or in the yard) time well spent

1. Get Together

2. Go Green

SUNSET V I N TA G E PUZZLES

LET TUCE GROW WITH HALO RING LIGHTS

Your favorite vintage Sunset covers, some assembly required. Whether you’re looking for an easy solve or a barn burner, our puzzles make the perfect gift this holiday season. $17.95 TO $19.95 AND UP, SHOP.SUNSET.COM

We're big fans of this vertical hydroponic growing solution, and the new add-on lighting system adds months to our harvest window. $348 AND UP, LET TUCEGROW.COM

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3. Big Audio Dynamite SONOS ARC H O M E T H E AT E R SPEAKER

Home theater took on a renewed importance in 2020, as shut-in cinema became the norm. This industry-leading system kicks out big jams, customized for any room. $799, SONOS.COM

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4. Get Toasty

5. Keller's Tome

6. Dig Deeper

BAL MU DA " TH E TOA STE R"

THE FRENCH L A U N D R Y, P E R SE COOKBOOK

SUNSE T GARDE N TROWE L

The handsome Japanese-made toaster alternates pulses of radiant heat with puffs of steam to precisely brown bread while keeping it light and fluffy. Perfect for the sourdough pro in your life. $329; US.BALMUDA.COM

Culinary demigod Thomas Keller’s latest cookbook boasts signature recipes from his two 3-Michelin star restaurants and is a masterclass in fine dining kitchen fundamentals. $77; FINESSETHESTORE.COM

Gardeners don’t need a lot of gear, but the essentials have got to be trustworthy. This trowel, handforged in Bozeman, Montana by blacksmith Tuli Fisher, is a functional heirloom piece. $62.99, SHOP.SUNSET.COM

7. Pan Theism A LWAY S PA N

This naturally nonstick multifunctional pan incorporates thoughtful details like a dedicated steamer basket, pour spouts, and an integrated spoon rest. $148, FROMOURPL ACE.COM

8. Space, Saved EVERMILL SPICE R AC K & S E RV I C E

PAN: JASON WOOLWAY; PILLOW: MAGGIE SHANNON

Easy access to your spices makes you a more intuitive cook. This elegant offering turns your countertop into a trophy case, neatly putting everything—from anise to za’atar—in its right place. Even better—just send a text and a refill of new, high-quality spices shows up in two or three days. $209, EVERMILL.COM

Knives Out

Sharp ideas to raise your kitchen game

9. Breathe Easy

10. Decorate

DY S O N P U R E HUMIDIFY + COOL

BLOCKSHOP PILLOW

The first triple-duty unit from Dyson, this combination fan, humidifier, and purifier is the ultimate solution for dry winter air. $799, DYSON.COM

Antique nautical flags inspired the bold woodblockprinted forms on the new Signal Pillow from this L.A. textile powerhouse. $105, BLOCKSHOPTEXTILES.COM

N A N C Y S I LV E R T O N BREAD KNIFE

With extra wide serration and a grippy handle, this stunner of a bread knife from Made In Cookware was designed with input from L.A. legend Nancy Silverton. The limited edition version boasts an ivory micarta handle and custom brass rivets. $99–$169, MADEINCOOKWARE.COM

SHUN BLONDE KITCHEN KNIVES

B E N C H M A D E TA B LE K N I V E S

Shun’s new Japanese-made blonde knife set addresses two common issues: the tightly edited collection’s slimline knife block takes up minimal counter space while the tough but elegant pakkawood handles complement today’s lighter hued kitchen interiors. $350, WILLIAMSSONOMA.COM

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Knives tend to follow certain traditions of craftsmanship: There are the precise German blades, exquisite Japanese knives, and so on. This showpiece set, which comes in a magnetic wooden storage case, offers a uniquely American entry. The set includes four knives and a lifetime warranty. $600, BENCHMADE.COM

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California Strumming FENDER AMERICAN PROFESSIONAL II S T R AT O C A S T E R

THOMAS J. STORY

Made in Corona, California, Fender’s latest American Professional II Stratocaster is updated to be better sounding and more playable than ever, perfect for budding pandemic pickers and pros alike. Plus, the iconic design is an objet d’art worthy of front and center position in your living room. $1,499; FENDER.COM

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For You and Yours Cozy clothes and stylish accessories to keep you warm and looking cool all winter long. 1. Lounge Leader

2. Vegan Mitts

3. Forever Kicks

4.Purple Reign

5. Custom Lid

WOMEN'S L A SIRENA KIMONO

GORDINI CACHE MIT TEN

BLUNDSTONE 19 61 H E E L E D

EARRINGS

S I N G H AT C O .

Flush with smart features including a cushy terry interior, a champagne pocket, a zip-up dry zone for phones, and a sunglasses loop, this breezy lounger is the ultimate spa-athome coverall. $148, CALIFORNIACOWBOY.COM

A brand-new synthetic leather called “CLUTCH” forms the business end of these mittens, while PrimaLoft insulation keeps your digits cozy in the city or on the slopes. $85, GORDINI.COM

A new style from the 150-year-old Tasmanian footwear stalwart, these rubber-heeled slipons are durable, stylish, and, like the best of us, only get better with age. $200, BLUNDSTONE.COM

Dangly, oversized, and iridescent, these handmade brass earrings from Annie Costello Brown are moodelevating to both wear and behold. $317, ANNIECOSTELLOBROWN.COM

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COURTESY OF COMPANIES

Made by hand by an artisan in the Tetons, this line of lids features elegant finishes and beaver-derived felt for natural water resistance and durability. The waitlist releases each month but gift cards are available. $130, SINGHATCO.COM

6. Classic Warmth FILSON LINED WO O L PAC K E R

Water-resistant Mackinaw wool forms the core of this winter warmer, while a cotton flannel liner and shearling collar keep you cozy. $795, FILSON.COM

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FOOD &

DRINK Spiced Spritz Cookies

Holiday Baking Essentials

Can’t-fail sweet treats perfect for gifting or enjoying at home. Photographs by MIMI COUNCIL

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he West is home to the highest mountains in the United States, and we don’t need to tell our readers who live (and bake) thousands of feet above sea level that cakes can fall flat and cookies can burn and pastries dry out if you don’t adjust your recipes and techniques. That’s where the brilliant Mountain Baking cookbook comes in handy. Written by Mimi Council and Kimmy Fasani, the co-owners of Dessert’D Organic Bake Shop in Mammoth Lakes, California, it’s the perfect companion for folks who live in the mountains or are just heading up over 8,000 feet for the holidays and want to do some baking in their vacation rental or home. When at high elevation, check your baked goods at the low end of the time to make sure they don’t cook too fast. Not in the mountains? Not a problem. These recipes work perfectly at sea level, too.

Chocolate Peanut Butter Mendiants MAKES 20 MENDIANTS

“Mendiants are a traditional French candy. They are little disks of chocolate topped with dried fruits and nuts. I like to think of these as packable fuel. When you mix dark chocolate and peanut butter together, you get a little protein plus some sweet and salty goodness that can keep you going until you get home.” —Mimi

FROM PREVIOUS PAGE

Spiced Spritz Cookies MAKES 50 COOKIES

“These little holiday cookies are all you need for those times when you want to curl up in front a fire and watch Christmas movies. Add a Hot Toddy and it just gets better.” —Mimi 1 cup salted butter, softened ¾ cup cane sugar, plus extra for topping 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 large egg 2 cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon powdered ginger ½ teaspoon ground cloves

GLUTEN-F REE VARIATION:

Replace the all-purpose flour with 1½ scant cups gluten-free flour blend and ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon coconut flour. 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line

two baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add the butter, cane sugar, and vanilla extract. Mix on low until combined and no chunks of butter remain. Let the mixer mix on

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low for 5 minutes; set a timer. The butter mixture will look light in color and fluffy. Add the egg and mix until combined. Add the flour, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves and mix on low until combined into a cookie dough. Fit a piping bag with the Ateco tip #846 and fill the bag with half the cookie dough. (If you put it in all at once, it can be too hard to squeeze out.) Pipe the dough into 1½-inch dollops onto the prepared baking sheets. Repeat with the remaining half of the dough. Bake for 10 minutes, or until golden brown around the edges. Sprinkle a little cane sugar on top after coming out of the oven. Let cool completely on the baking sheets. Store in an airtight container for up to 7 days.

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1¼ cups finely chopped dark chocolate ¼ cup peanut butter Scant ¼ cup roasted and salted peanuts, coarsely chopped 1. Line two baking sheets

with parchment paper. 2. Temper the chocolate:

Place about 80 percent of the chocolate in a heatproof bowl and set aside the remaining 20 percent. To create a double boiler, fill a small saucepan with water and place the bowl with the 80 percent of the chocolate on top; do not let the bowl touch the water. Turn on to high heat and melt the chocolate until it reaches 110°F on a digital thermometer. Remove from the

heat. Immediately add in the remaining 20 percent of chocolate and stir vigorously to combine completely. Allow the chocolate to come down to 89°F. 3. Once the chocolate is tempered, add in the peanut butter and stir to combine completely. Scoop 1 scant tablespoon of the chocolate–peanut butter mixture onto the parchment paper to form a round disk of chocolate. Top with chopped peanuts. Repeat until all the chocolate–peanut butter mixture and peanuts are gone. Place the tray in the fridge to set, about 1 hour. 4. Store in a cool, dry place or in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Chocolate Sweet Rolls MAKES 8 ROLLS

“Rich, decadent, and not too sweet: I use Dutch cocoa powder instead of a sweeter chocolate to make these rolls. This allows the glaze to be just sweet enough.” —Mimi DOUGH ¼ cup hot water 2 teaspoons active dry yeast ¼ cup plus ½ teaspoon

grease a baking dish, either a 9-inch circle dish or an 11-by-7- inch dish. 5. To make the filling: In a small bowl, combine the cocoa and ¼ cup cane sugar. Set aside. 6. On a floured surface, roll out the dough to a rectangle that is about 12-by-16 inches. Using a spatula, spread the softened butter all over the rolled-out dough. Sprinkle the sugar and cocoa mixture on top of the butter. Starting at the longer side, fold the dough over and start to roll the dough until it is completely

rolled into a log. Trim off the edges and cut the dough log into eight rolls. 7. Place the rolls in the prepared baking dish and bake for 35 minutes, or until golden brown. Allow to cool for 5 to 10 minutes. 8. To make the glaze: In a mixing bowl, add the powdered sugar and 3 tablespoons milk and whisk until you have a smooth glaze. Pour the glaze over the top of the warm sweet rolls. 9. Store in the fridge for up to 3 days.

CANE SUGAR ¼ cup salted butter ¾ cup milk 3½ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 large egg FILLING ¹/₃ cup Dutch cocoa powder, sifted ¼ cup cane sugar ½ cup salted butter, softened GLAZE 1 cup powdered sugar, sifted 3 tablespoons milk 1. To make the dough: In the bowl

of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the hot water, yeast, and ½ teaspoon cane sugar. Stir to combine and let sit for 5 minutes until bubbly. 2. In a small saucepan over medium heat, add the butter and milk. Stir until completely melted. Remove from the heat. 3. Add the flour, ¼ cup cane sugar, and sea salt to the mixing bowl in that order. Add the egg and the milk mixture and knead on low for 3 to 5 minutes, until a smooth dough forms. Place the dough in a greased bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rise for 1 to 3 hours, until doubled in size. 4. Preheat the oven to 350°F and

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Merry Mixology

More than ever the holidays are the time to embrace the nostalgic and familiar. These festive drinks embody the season and range from deep and sultry to effervescent and uplifting. Photographs by REN FULLER

hile big family gatherings aren’t in the cards for you this year, don’t let that stop you from making a celebratory, party-worthy cocktail. Even it’s just you and close family and friends (socially distanced, of course, possibly wearing redand-green-checked face masks tricked out with Rudolph-style noses), few things uplift spirits more than, well, spirits—mixed with seasonal ingredients in a cocktail that looks and tastes like the holidays. These three drinks from Very Merry Cocktails, written by Jessica Strand and photographed by Ren Fuller (who shot much of our recent camping issue), fill the bill perfectly. Since you’ll likely be making these for a smaller group than you might otherwise, be sure to buy the best ingredients possible. Splurge, if you can, on top-shelf bottles, using high-quality crisp, dry sparkling wine, and make merry in the moment with gratitude and good cheer. Bonus: The leftover honey and cinnamon syrup can be drizzled over waffles or pancakes or used to sweeten hot tea and other beverages.

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Reprinted from Very Merry Cocktails, by Jessica Strand, with permission from Chronicle Books, 2020

Apple Pie MAKES 1 DRINK

This drink is easy as pie, thanks to an aromatic blend of honey, vanilla, and sparkling apple cider. Drop in a cinnamon stick for a delightful way to stir it up.

3 oz whiskey 2 oz Honey Syrup (see below) 1 drop vanilla extract Sparkling apple cider, for topping off 1 apple round, for garnish 1 cinnamon stick, for garnish (optional) • Fill a tumbler or mason jar with

a handful of ice. Pour the whiskey, honey syrup, and vanilla into an ice-filled shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into the glass. Top off with sparkling apple cider and garnish with a thin round of apple and a cinnamon stick, if desired.

HONEY SYRUP MAKES 12 OZ

1 cup mild honey, such as wildflower or orange blossom 1 cup water • Combine the honey and water in

a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring the mixture to a rapid boil, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and let cool. Strain the syrup and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

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Partridge In a Pear Tree MAKES 1 DRINK

This fresh, wintry cocktail works only if both the pear liqueur and the champagne are well chilled. If you like, rim the glass with citrus juice and dip in sugar.

1 oz pear eau de vie 4â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 oz champagne 1 frozen pear wedge or strip of pear, for garnish â&#x20AC;˘ Pour the pear eau de vie into a

champagne flute or a coupe glass. Fill the rest of the glass with champagne. Garnish with a frozen pear wedge.

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THE WESTERN HOLIDAY BAR These Western brands can elevate these cocktails or round out your holiday home bar.

St. George Pear Brandy

30 pounds of Bartlett pears go into every bottle of this exquisite eau de vie from the pioneering Bay Area distillery. $40 STGEORGESPIRITS.COM

Garrison Brothers Small Batch Bourbon

Fireside Glow CINNAMON SYRUP MAKES 1 DRINK

MAKES 12 OZ.

Ideal for warming up by a roaring fire, this boozy drink has comforting notes of cinnamon and almond, thanks to an elegant coating of amaretto.

1 cup sugar 1 cup water 1 cinnamon stick • Combine the sugar, water, and

3 oz bourbon 3 oz Cinnamon Syrup 2 or 3 dashes amaretto liqueur (see below) • Fill an Old Fashioned glass with

ice. Pour in the bourbon and cinnamon syrup. Stir gently to combine. In a separate Old Fashioned glass, add a few drops of amaretto and turn the glass to coat it in the liqueur. Pour out the excess amaretto. Strain the bourbon mixture into the amaretto glass. Add one or two cubes of ice, if desired.

cinnamon stick in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring the mixture to a rapid boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and let cool. Strain the syrup and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

This Texas bourbon has lovely toffee, oak, smoke, and caramel notes. $85 GARRISONBROS.COM

Oakland Spirits Co. Automatic Sea Gin

Someone’s going to ask for a G & T. Blow their mind with this gin made from locally foraged coastal botanicals. $35 OAKLANDSPIRITS.COM

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs This elegant crisp California bubbly will make a fine champagne cocktail. $22 GLORIAFERRER.COM

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CHEF

Chipotle Sweet Potatoes P.32

A HO Traditional Hummus P. 33

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: VARTAN ABGARYAN; STEPHANIE YOUNG/Â© SPICE TRIBE; COURTESY OF HOTEL JACKSON

Delicata Squash With Burrata P. 29

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Imoni P. 32

Roti Tacos With Paneer P. 30

TAKES Long Beans With Pork Belly P. 31

LIDAY

What do the best chefs and restaurateurs in the West really cook for their families come the holidays? Delicious food with heart and soul and meaning. Whether it’s Mom’s mole or a cheffy upgrade on gratin, these celebratory dishes are straight from their hearths to yours. SUNSET

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Potatoes au Gratin with leeks and horseradish

PAUL C. REILLY, beast + bottle, Coperta, Denver

“ A great alternative to boring mashed potatoes. Perfect with Christmas dinner where the trend has shifted away from turkey to larger beef roasts.”

See recipe at sunset.com

Mitsuko’s Crabmeat Korroke (Croquette) We use ketchup and mustard to flavor the mashed potato, fold in cooked sweet crab, and lastly add raw white onions for texture. We eat it with tonkatsu sauce, pickled ginger, and a cabbage slaw.

CASEY FELTON, Banh Oui, Los Angeles “My mom is originally from Tokyo, but married a Westerner (Gaijin) and moved to California when she was 27. I love this dish because it’s Japanese but has Western influences. Historically made with béchamel, my family’s recipe uses potato. It’s crispy, soft, and filling, but most importantly was fun to make as a kid with my mom.”

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1. Boil potatoes until tender. Once

cool, remove skin. Mash with food mill or hand mixer. Add milk and mix until incorporated. Don’t over-mix, or potatoes will become glutinous. 2. Gently mix in salt, pepper, ketchup, mustard, onion and crabmeat. 3. Shake out flour on a rimmed plate to prep for shaping croquets. 4. Combine egg and water for eggwash in small bowl. 5. Spread panko on secondrimmed plate. 6. Form crab-potato mixture into large potato-shaped croquette (about 3 oz). Should make approximately 8 croquettes. 7. Roll each croquette through flour, then egg wash, then panko and place on a separate plate. 8. In a 10-inch sauté pan, add 2 cups canola oil to create a fryereffect and bring to 325–350°F or until a sprinkle of panko sizzles. 9. Once oil is heated, add croquettes. Brown all sides. Remove and drain on paper towels. 10. Serve hot next to cabbage slaw and topped with tonkatsu sauce and pickled ginger.

COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF PAUL C. REILLY (2); CASEY FELTON/BANH OUI (2)

1 lb Yukon Gold potatoes (about 4 medium-sized) 1/4 cup whole milk 1 tsp kosher salt (or to taste) 1/2 tsp ground black pepper (or to taste) 2 tsp ketchup 1/2 tsp Dijon-style mustard 1/2 small white onion, sliced very thinly 8 oz canned real lump crabmeat 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 egg 1 Tbsp water 1.5 cups panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) 2 cups canola oil (or other vegetable oil) Cabbage slaw Japanese pickled ginger (pink) Tonkatsu sauce

FROM LEFT: BRANDON LY/© SPICE TRIBE; STEPHANIE YOUNG/© SPICE TRIBE

TRENT BLODGETT, Spice Tribe, San Francisco “The striped skin of my favorite squash adds to the beauty of this dish. Soft burrata, crunchy pistachios, and sweet squash are enlivened by just a little salt, pepper, and coriander. An easy go-to dish for a celebration.“

Delicata Squash with Burrata and Toasted Pistachios The technique of blooming the spices and pistachios in the oil not only adds a wonderful crunchy texture but also creates an infused oil that acts as the dressing. Using fresh spices makes all the difference. 2 delicata squash, cut in half lengthwise, seeded and sliced into ½-inch thick slices 8 oz burrata ¹/₃ cup raw, unsalted pistachios, shelled 1 Tbsp coriander seed to taste pink Peruvian salt to taste Spice Tribe Late Harvest Black Peppercorns 3 Tbsp olive oil Italian flat leaf parsley leaves for garnish

until the coriander is golden brown and remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper. 8. Place burrata in the middle of a ceramic platter. Remove squash from oven and arrange around the burrata. Pour the spiced pistachio oil over the burrata and delicata squash. Garnish with parsley leaves and serve immediately.

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place

squash slices into a mixing bowl and toss with 1 Tbsp olive oil and salt; place on a sheet tray in a single layer. Roast until the edges are well browned and the flesh is soft, about 15 minutes. 2. While squash is in the oven, combine pistachios and olive oil and sauté over medium heat, stirring frequently until fragrant and nutty, about 3 minutes. 3. Add coriander seeds and sauté while continuing to move the pan so they don’t burn. Cook

• NOTE: If burrata isn’t avail-

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able, a high quality fresh mozzarella or even fresh ricotta, drained well, will work in a pinch. The coarse grind of pink Peruvian salt gives a nice texture. Late Harvest Black Peppercorns have a fruity spicy flavor, adding another dimension to the dish. Be careful not to walk away from the pan when the nuts and seeds are toasting in the oil, as they can burn quickly.

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Roti Tacos The holidays are a great time to bring everyone together, all cultures, faiths, nationalities and create something new. It is so joyful to combine foods and traditions. Here’s our kind of taco night. ROTI 1 cup wheat flour 1 tsp ghee or olive oil salt to taste

POBLANO SALSA 4 poblanos, seeded and stems removed 1 onion, quartered 6 garlic cloves, peeled 8 tomatillos, husks removed ½ bunch cilantro 1 Tbsp olive oil salt and pepper to taste TACO paneer, cut to ½ inch thick and about 3 inches wide seasonal veggies, sautéed 2 rmedium ed potatoes, julienned and pan-fried ghee salt and pepper to taste POBLANO SALSA 1. Preheat oven to 450°F. 2. On a sheet tray, drizzle pobla-

nos, onions, garlic, and tomatillos with olive oil, and toss with a pinch of salt and pepper. Bake for 30 minutes. 3. Remove from oven, and transfer poblanos to a dish and cover with plastic wrap. Once cooled, peel off the skin. One secret to maintain flavor is not run the poblanos in water, so keep it dry. 4. Place all ingredients, along with cilantro in a blender. Blend at a low level then increase.

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ROTI

VEGGIES

1. Combine wheat flour, a little

• My family worked together to get

ghee, a little water, and salt. Knead for about 10 minutes. On a surface dusted with flour knead for about 10 minutes, or until the dough is soft and pliable and doesn’t stick to your fingers. Add more flour to the work surface, divide dough into 7 or 8 balls, and press out into circles. 2. Place a sauté pan on medium heat and add oil. Once heated (just before a smoking point) add the roti. At home we like to make it a little crispy, like taqueros do with tortillas. Once it reaches the desired crispiness, remove it with tongs and hold it over the open flame of a gas burner. The goal is to get that layer of char for a smoky flavor.

different flavor profiles.Medium diced carrots. Purple cauliflower florets. Asparagus sliced into rounds. Plus potatoes. It’s like a California burrito but in an open face. 1. Set a sauté pan over mediumhigh heat, and add olive oil. Before it comes to a smoking point add the potatoes. 2. Here is where the pan fry technique kicks in. When you add the potatoes, cook unstirred for about 5 minutes then flip them and repeat. The secret here is to get the texture without burning them. With these potatoes you want to serve them right away to avoid sogginess. This is a super tip. GARNISHES

PANEER

• As a family we went with pome-

• Wow, I love this cheese for its

granate seeds (pomegranate is a very spiritual fruit) to adds texture, acid and color. • Cilantro, both leaves and stems. Cilantro stems have lots of flavor and also add texture. • Edible Marigold flowers. This flower is auspicious for Mexicans and Indians. For Mexicans, it is used during the holiday Dia de los Muertos, and for Indians it is commonly used to decorate the space for weddings.

flavor and versatility. Place sauté pan on high heat. Once it comes to a smoking point add a little oil or ghee. Sear as if you were going to sear a nice steak. Texture is what we are looking for here. And of course, flavor!

FROM LEFT: © RYAN TENAKA 2020; MARIO CHRISTERNA

MARIO CHRISTERNA, The Paramount, Boyle Heights, CA “This is an homage to my Mexican roots and my Indian family through marriage. It has just enough Indian and Mexican that both grandmothers can be in the kitchen using their skills, but simple enough that my two daughters can also help. Felices Fiestas a todos!“

Enchiladas Sonorenses

CARLOTTA FLORES, El Charro, Tucson

“ We use fresh masa in Sonoran flat enchiladas topped with salsa de chile colorado.”

See recipe at sunset.com

Long Beans with Pork Belly

Pork and green beans are a perfect pairing to pick up the flavors of the hot, sweet, and savory flavors of the sauce and the char of the wok. 1 lb long beans or string beans, trimmed, cut into 3-inch pieces 4 star anise pods ½ tsp whole fennel seed 1 tsp whole coriander seed ½ tsp whole cumin seed ½ tsp whole red Sichuan peppercorns ¼ cup peanut oil ¾ lb pork belly, diced 3 Tbsp minced garlic 3 Tbsp minced shallot or yellow onion 2 tsp minced ginger 2 tsp minced serrano pepper (optional) 2 Tbsp Shaoxing wine soy sauce, to taste mirin, to taste 1 Tbsp black bean sauce white sugar, to taste fish sauce, to taste ground white pepper, to taste 2 tsp toasted sesame oil 1. Bring large pot of water to a roll-

ing boil. 2. Season with salt until salty like

the sea. Add beans and blanch 1 minute, or until just barely cooked through. If you are cooking beans immediately afterwards, blanch, drain, and let cool. If you are cooking beans hours or days in advance, blanch, shock in ice water, drain, and reserve in refrigerator. 3. Grind all spices in spice grinder

until coarsely ground. 4. Heat wok, large cast iron skil-

let, or other heavy-bottomed pan on high heat until smoking. Add oil and let heat 30 seconds. 5. Add pork belly with spices and sauté 2–3 minutes, or until lightly browned and outsides are beginning to crisp up. 6. Add Shaoxing wine. If using a wok, drizzle on outer rims for it to sizzle and caramelize in the process. 7. Add a splash of soy sauce, following a similar pattern as the Shaoxing wine.

8. Move pork belly aside in wok.

Add garlic, shallot, ginger, and serrano peppers to center of wok. Sauté in peanut oil and pork belly fat 1–2 minutes until fragrant, then stir to combine with pork belly. 9. Add beans and bean sauce to wok. Sauté another 3–4 minutes, or until beans are cooked through, while adjusting to taste with soy sauce, mirin, sugar, fish sauce, white pepper. 10. Once beans are cooked through, remove from heat and stir in sesame oil.

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JENNY DORSEY, Studio ATAO, Los Angeles “My husband always requests this for the holidays because it’s rather timeconsuming to make. The long beans must be wok-fried first, then stir-fried again with pork. It’s absolutely delicious, and has become a special marker of the holiday season.”

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KIMINOBU SAITO, Sushi Note, Sherman Oaks, CA “Imoni is made and eaten outdoors on an open fire. It’s typically served at the start of autumn by the river bank with a large gathering of friends and family. In Japan you can go to a festival known as Imoni Kai. This dish features Yamagata’s famous Yonezawa beef and taro.”

Imoni This is a fun and simple dish that Saito san still makes with his family to this day.

CARLOS CRUZ-SANTOS, China Poblano, Las Vegas “For the holidays I love cooking a chicken mole my mother makes from the state of San Luis Potosi, Mexico. Unlike most traditional moles that use chocolate to sweeten the dish, this one is a bright red mole that is both full of flavor and extra spicy because of the variety of chiles and spices added to the dish.”

1. Start with washing and cutting

the taro into large bite size pieces. Thinly slice the leeks. Cut the konnyaku noodles into bite size pieces. Boil 6 cups water in a large cast iron pot. Add the taro and cook until tender, then add the beef. Add sugar, sake, and soy sauce to the boiling water. Add the leek and konnyaku. Cook until leeks and konnyaku noodles are tender. Adjust to taste and enjoy!

Chipotle Roasted Sweet Potatoes With Labneh This is an easy recipe that my family loves me to make every year. This serves two but can be scaled up.

FOR LEBNI 1 cup Greek-style yogurt 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 lemon, zested and juiced 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 tsp salt 1. Combine chipotle peppers,

See recipe at sunset.com

2 chipotle peppers from a can 2 Tbsp pomegranate molasses, plus 1 tsp for garnish 1 garlic clove ¼ cup lemon juice 1 Tbsp red wine vinegar 1 cup olive oil 1 sweet potato Lebni (see recipe below) Pomegranate seeds, for garnish

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pomegranate molasses, garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, and olive oil in a blender and blend until emulsified into a vinaigrette. 2. Preheat oven to 375°F. Peel and cut the sweet potatoes into large chunks. In a large bowl toss with 1/3 of the dressing. Place in one layer on a parchment-lined tray (do not crowd) and roast for

30–40 minutes or until tender. Remove from oven and let cool. 3. Meanwhile, make the lebni: In a medium bowl combine yogurt, garlic, lemon juice and zest, olive oil, and salt, and stir to combine. 4. To assemble: Warm the potatoes in the oven and toss with remainder of the dressing. Spoon a dollop of the lebni on the side to garnish. Drizzle with pomegranate molasses and pomegranate seeds to finish.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF BREAD & BUTTER (2); CHINA POBLANO BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS; LOUIIE VICTA

Mole de Pollo Maria Cruz

1 lb taro 1 package konnyaku noodles 1 leek 1 pound thinly sliced beef ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup sake 1 Tbsp sugar

Traditional Hummus

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF HOTEL JACKSON (2); VARTAN ABGARYAN; © ROBERT STARK

Homemade hummus is easy to make and so much better than store bought. Since it isn’t always possible to soak and cook chickpeas beforehand, canned work just fine. Serve with pita wedges.

1 15 oz. can of chickpeas, drained, rinsed, liquid reserved juice of 1 lemon 1 clove of garlic ½ cup of tahini (if separated, stir well before measuring) 1 tsp salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling Za’atar spice mix

SADEK DARWICHE, Hotel Jackson and Figs, Jackson, WY “Lebanese love any occasion to celebrate, and despite religious and cultural diversity, Christmas is a major event regardless of religious background. We’ll serve our family’s hummus recipe next to the traditional English turkey.”

1. Pinch the skins from each of the

chickpeas; using two fingers they slip right off. Place chickpeas and garlic in the food processor and gently pulse to create a very coarse consistency. Add the tahini, lemon juice, salt, and pepper to the bowl of the food processor. Pulse again gently to combine. With the machine running, drizzle the olive oil until the hummus begins to get smooth. To get the desired consistency, add the reserved chickpea liquid. The more liquid the smoother the hummus. Sprinkle with za’atar and a drizzle of olive oil and serve.

VARTAN ABGARYAN, Yours Truly and Nueva, Los Angeles

“ The tart and creamy lebni balances the dish’s sweetness and spice” SUNSET

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P R OMOTION

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE Looking for some great gifts to give this season? Start here.

CELEBRATE

RELAX

You have your yoga mat- now what? Hugger Mugger teamed up with Judith Hanson Lasater to gather all the Restorative yoga essentials in one kit. Discover how these props and poses can help deepen relaxation and contribute to your health and wellness. Restorative kit includes all products pictured. $374.95, huggermugger.com

CLEANSE

Shampoo doesn’t need to be in a plastic bottle to be great! Velo Soaps, based in Beaverton, Oregon, is best known for their hand-made natural shampoo and conditioner bars. All shampoo is created without sulfates, parabens or silicones. Shampoo bars come in a reusable tin container, which is meant to prolong the life of your bar in the shower. Visit velosoaps.com for the full hair, body, and biodegradable lines. $8.00 - $32.00

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Garrison Brothers Distillery makes the finest, hand-crafted bourbon whiskey money can buy. It’s always been a great holiday gift for friends and family, or yourself. Purchase online garrisonbros.com/shop

TREK

Designed for unmatched comfort, durability, and ease-of-use, the Leatherman P4 represents decades of consumer feedback, testing, and engineering. Integrated FREE™ technology means all 21 tools are easily accessed with one hand, open smoothly, and click into place with a confident snap. Proudly made in Portland, Oregon. $139.95 - Available at leatherman.com

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HYDRATE

FEAST

There’s a new meal kit service in town. Recently launched in LA, Simple Feast serves up great-tasting, chef-designed menus that just happen to be made of plants. Each week, get three delicious, mise-en-place dinners made with locally sourced ingredients delivered to your doorstep. Starting at $98 (shipping included), simplefeast.com

AL FRESCO

Get the perfect backpacking kitchen this holiday season for just $59.95. The Essential Trail Kit is created for camping novices or experienced outdoor chefs. Invented in

The LifeStraw Home glass water filter pitcher boasts an impressive filtration performance including protection against bacteria, parasites, microplastics, lead, mercury, PFAS and much more. We love the elegant design and even better every purchase also gives safe water to a child in need. $54.95, lifestraw.com

SAVOR

Every year, Tillamook releases a new line-up of vintages, including a 3, 4, 5, 6 and 10-year Maker’s Reserve Aged Cheddars. Tillamook pairs the highest-quality milk and a recipe that’s been delivering for decades. Add proprietary cultures, cheese making savvy and time. What you get will have been worth the wait. $13, tillamook.com

Sweden, and handcrafted in Europe, this kit easily transports everything needed to cook a backcountry or car-side hot meal. Available at primus.us. (Fuel not Included)

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story by Hugh Garvey

photographs by Thomas J. Story

ROMAN

HOLIDAY

Chef Evan Funke, L.A.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prince of porchetta and pasta, cooks a holiday feast inspired by the flavors of the Eternal City. P. 37

s L.A. nearly imperceptibly tipped from summer to fall, chef Evan Funke gave the city an early holiday gift: a pop-up restaurant residency in Hollywood inspired by the pizzerias and osterias of Rome. Over the years, Funke has risen to fame as a master of Italian cuisine, most notably with his restaurant Felix in Venice, a transcendent temple to handmade pasta. His new spot in Hollywood, in a romantic little open-air passageway—a mini piazza if you will—is just what Angelenos needed some eight months into a grueling chapter in this city’s history. The restaurant is charmingly, hopefully, called Fingers Crossed. Here he serves his version of Roman food: simple pastas and pizzas and the occasional roast. For our holiday issue he returned to the dish that first drew him acclaim here in L.A. when he served it from a food truck: porchetta, that fennel-and rosemary-scented pork roast ringed with crunchy skin. He served it on sandwiches way back when, but for this menu he went big, with a twelve-pounder that’s worth the effort and will take you from the holidays and possibly into the New Year.

P O RC H E T TA SERVES 12 / 6 HOURS

“It’s nearly impossible to cook porchetta for a single meal, let alone a single meal for a small group. This large roast will provide multiple meals with many uses like sandwiches, cold cuts, pizza, and it can be cubed up and served with pasta. Speak with your local butcher to inquire about a pork loin, skin on, belly attached. When it comes to seasoning, be liberal with the salt, it will need to penetrate the meat. I’ve provided a salt variance here depending on the size of the pork section. You’ll need a digital thermometer to get this just right.”

10-to-12-pound section of pork loin, skin-on, belly attached ½ to ¾ cup kosher salt 5 large garlic cloves, grated Whole black peppercorns 1 Tbsp fennel pollen 1 Tbsp red chili flakes 1 cup finely chopped rosemary 1 lemon 1. Preheat an oven to 275°F. Lay

the porchetta on a flat counter or large cutting board skin side down, with the loin closest to you. 2. With a thin sharp knife, poke holes in the meat, about ¼ inch deep. Be careful not to cut all the way through. 3. Season the porchetta: Sprinkle

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the porchetta liberally with kosher salt. Massage garlic into the meat. Crack black pepper evenly across the entire surface, about 40 turns on a hand grinder. Sprinkle fennel pollen, chili flakes, and rosemary across the entire surface. Zest the lemon skin with a fine grater and sprinkle evenly across pork. 4. Roll the porchetta: Rolling the loin away from you, connect the top of the loin to the bottom of the belly making a roll. Slide a doubled length of butcher's twine under the roll and cinch a knot 2 inches from the edge of the roll. Repeat every 2-3 inches making sure the twine is taught and the knot tight. 5. Cook the porchetta: Place the porchetta on the sheet tray with a roasting rack. Add 1 cup of water to the bottom of the tray. Cover tightly with the aluminum foil, this will help to gelatinize the skin through steam. Bake in the oven for 90 minutes. Remove the foil. Increase the temperature of the oven to 325°F and cook for 90 minutes. Fat will have rendered into the pan and must be removed. To safely drain the rendered fat, place a damp kitchen towel on the open

oven door and place a medium sized steel bowl on the towel. While holding the sheet tray with oven mitts, slide the sheet tray toward you and gently tilt the tray so that the fat runs towards the corner of the tray and into the receptacle. Remove the rendered fat in this manner 1 or 2 times during the cooking process, being very careful as the pork fat is extremely hot. Check the internal temperature of the porchetta by inserting the thermometer into the center of the loin, it should be around 90–100°F. Degrease the tray and increase the temperature of the oven to 450°F and roast for 30 minutes. Check the internal temperature, it should be climbing towards 120°F. Roast for an additional 30-45 minutes, checking the internal temperature intermittently. Cook the porchetta until it reaches 140°F. At this point the skin should be bubbly and the belly fat will have rendered into the sheet tray. Be very careful of the rendered fat when removing the tray from the oven. 6. Allow the porchetta to rest for 30 minutes before slicing.

F O C ACC I A D I ZU CC A SERVES 6 / 2 HOURS

While foccacia can be dense if you’re not careful, Funke’s is airy and delicate, and shot through with a vivid orange thanks to his clever use of squash juice rather than a heavy purée. Puréeing, straining, and diluting the liquid adds a step but for focaccia fans and bakers it’s worth it.

3 cups cleaned peeled and diced kuri squash 1²/₃ cups water 1/2 Tbsp honey 4 tsp dry instant yeast 5 cups all purpose flour scant 4 tsp sea salt 1 cup extra virgin olive oil Coarse sea salt for finishing Chopped fresh rosemary, optional 1. In a high speed blender, blend

the cleaned squash and water until very smooth. Strain the juice though a fine mesh strainer, taking care to not press the puréed squash through the sieve. Reserve the liquid and reserve the purée for another use like soup. 2. In a shallow pot on medium heat, bring the juice to a simmer for 5 minutes to remove the starchiness of the squash juice. Cool the juice in a metal bowl set over ice until very cold.

3. With a digital scale, weigh the

juice and add water until the total liquid is about 16 oz. Note that if you have 2 cups of squash juice, there is no need to add water. 4. In a mixer with a dough hook, combine the juice, yeast, honey, and half the flour. Mix on low until the mixture is pancake batter consistency. Add the salt, olive oil, and the remaining flour incrementally until all the flour is combined. Mix on medium speed for 8–10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. Remove the dough from the mixer to a lightly floured surface and cover with plastic. Allow the dough to rest for 5 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, grease a deep baking tray with ½ cup olive oil. An aluminum turkey pan works great for this or two large Pyrex baking trays. Note: If using two smaller vessels, you will need to divide the dough in half before shaping.

To shape the dough, pull the farthest edge of the dough, folding under and towards you. Rotate the dough a quarter turn and repeat the fold, under and toward you. Repeat the fold 2–3 more times, shaping the dough into a tight round ball. The surface of the dough should be taught and smooth. Place the dough in the baking tray and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Place in refrigerator and let rest overnight. 6. The next day, remove the dough from the refrigerator, remove the plastic wrap. Preheat the oven to 425°F (preferably with convection). With your finger tips, dimple the dough deeply and evenly. Allow the focaccia to rest 10 minutes and dimple again, spreading the dough gently with your fingertips to the corners of the tray. Repeat one more time. Cover the focaccia with a damp, lightweight towel or plastic wrap and proof in a warm area of the kitchen for 1–11/2 hours or until it doubles in size. Bake the focaccia for 8–10 minutes rotating the focaccia at the 7-minute mark. Remove the focaccia when the surface of the crust is deep golden brown. Cool for 15 minutes, serve warm with coarse sea salt, rosemary, and a healthy drizzle of olive oil.

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B U C AT I N I A L PESTO D I B RO CCO LO ROM A N ESCO SERVES 5 / 1 HOUR

"Although not strictly traditional, this pesto provides an excellent complex backdrop for the additional romanesco florets. We substitute shards of crisp fried bread crumbs for finishing cheese for deep contrast of texture."

1. Preheat the oven to 300°F.

Spread the pine nuts evenly in a single layer on a small baking tray. Toast the pine nuts for 6–8 minutes or until deep golden. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. 2. Bring a large heavy-bottomed pot of water to boil, season aggressively with salt. 3. Meanwhile, trim the romanesco by separating the conical florets and reserve. Trim the bottom ¼-inch off of the stems and save the center mass and trim for another use like soup. Wash and trim the bottom ¼-inch of the rapini and discard. 4. Prepare an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice cubes and water. Add rapini to boiling water and blanch for 2–3 minutes or until bright green. Remove rapini from water (turn down the heat, but keep the water on the stove, you’ll need it to cook the romanesco) and immediately add it to ice water to shock it and stop the cooking process. Once rapini is

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cool, wrap it in a clean kitchen towel and twist to wring out all the water. Roughly chop the rapini and set aside. Return water to a boil, blanch the romanesco florets for 2 minutes and repeat the same cooling steps. 5. In a food processor combine the garlic, olive oil, anchovy, pine nuts and cooked rapini, and blend until bright green and semi smooth. Add the grated cheeses (reserving 2 tablespoons pecorino romano) and pulse to incorporate. Taste and adjust seasoning. Remove from food processor. 6. To finish the dish: Bring a heavybottomed pot of water to a boil, season it with salt so that it tastes like a soup, not the ocean. Add the bucatini. Meanwhile, place a sauté pan on medium heat and add 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil. Once the oil is shimmering, add the romanesco florets and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat until the pasta is just about cooked. Once the pasta is al dente, about 8 minutes, drain the pasta and reserve ¼ cup or so of the pasta water in case you need a splash to moisten the pesto. Add the pesto to the pan, add pasta, toss and stir until well coated. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons pecorino romano and a splash of the pasta water to bring everything together. Transfer pasta to a warm serving platter, sprinkle fried bread crumbs abundantly over the pasta. Serve immediately.

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Next Level Bread Crumbs "You can purchase premade bread crumbs but I prefer to use bread that is a few days old. You’ll need about ½-cup of bread crumbs for the pasta dish." • Preheat the oven to 300°F. • Tear 4 slices of day old bread into small bits and layer it on a baking tray. Toast the bread to a deep gold, about 30–45 minutes. • In a food processor, chop the bread until it is evenly coarse. • In a wide sauté pan, add 2 tablespoons good olive oil and a smashed clove of garlic. When the oil is shimmering, add the bread crumbs and toss or stir to coat the crumbs in oil. • Cook on medium heat for 3-4 minutes, moving constantly. • Once browned, remove the bread crumbs from the pan and spread them on a sheet tray to cool. • Reserve.

FRANK BEAN/GETTY IMAGES

1 large leafy bunch rapini ³/₈ cup pine nuts 2 large garlic cloves 12–15 anchovy fillets ½ cup grated pecorino romano 1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp grated pecorino romano 1 head romanesco broccoli 1 pound dried bucatini Fried bread crumbs

1. Adding cheese to the sauce before the pasta pre-layers flavor. 2. Finishing the pasta in the pan lets it soak up the sauce. 3. The trick to getting that vivid color is to cook the rapini just until it turns bright green and then shock it in an ice bath. 4. Bread crumbs add the final crunchy touch.

BIG REDS

Congratulations! You made it to the end of 2020. Now it’s time to break out a bottle of something worthy of that accomplishment. Lucky for you, we’ve assembled a guide to navigating the hearty reds and American sparkling wines perfect for a celebration.

Delmas

Cliff Lede High Fidelity

Adelsheim Vineyards

Cain Cuvée

Darioush Sage

Sokol Blosser

Located in the Stag’s Leap district of Napa, this forward-thinking winery often borrows from rock music to name its wines. This bottling features Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate’s Twin Peaks vineyard and Cabernet Franc from the vineyards of wine luminary David Abreu. $90 ledefamilywines.com

This pioneering Oregon producer makes a handful of sparkling wines including this chiseled, briocheforward bottling that was harvested in 2014 and then spent five years “en tirage,” or in bottle. The source is 100 percent Chardonnay. $90 adelsheim.com

Crafted in the Bordeaux tradition, this blend plays with wines from two vintages, an uncommon practice in the United States that offers the winemaker a broader palate. It features Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc for a full-bodied, luscious palate that’s ready to drink now. $40 cainfive.com

A single-vineyard Bordeaux blend from Mount Veeder, this wine isn’t made every year. Its rugged mountain origins show through in the glass, boasting notes of cedar, lilac, and cardamom. The estate calls the wine "poised to reward the patient collector" but we'll leave that up to you. $175 darioush.com

As the first LEED-certified American winery and a certified B corporation, Sokol is a good buy for more than just the wine. And at just under $30 per bottle, we like this sparkler, which not only helps preserve avian habitats but showcases a blend of white varietals with notes of apple blossom, lychee, and white peach. $28 sokolblosser.com

2018 SYRAH

The “Rocks District” of Northern Oregon is the only wine growing region in the country with boundaries defined by a single soil type and land structure. Born from rocky soil, the wines often boast 90-point scores or higher. This standout Syrah delivers complexity and minerality—exotic, perfumed, peppery. $75 delmaswines.com

2017 RED WINE

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2014 BLANC DE BLANCS

NV 16 RED BLEND

2016 RED WINE

2016 BLUEBIRD CUVÉE

AND BUBBLIES 9 8

12 The Sunset 2020 Wine Guide

Visit sunset.com/wine to browse our firstever wine issue, featuring 150 pages of trends, profiles, recommendations, essays, and more! Also included: The winners of the 2020 Sunset International Wine Competition.

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Quilceda Creek

Larkmead Solari

The Mascot

Chandon Etoile

Argyle Extended

One of the oldest family-owned wineries in Washington, this topflight Cabernet maker celebrates its 40th vintage with this bottling, the most accessible of its wines. Floral notes, sagebrush, and deep, luscious fruit compote components burst from the glass. $70 quilcedacreek.com

Crafted by one of our favorite winemakers, Dan Petroski, this flagship wine from the winery founded in1895 is built for aging. But if you don’t want to wait 20– 30 years to enjoy the violet, dried herbs, and black tea notes in the 100 percent Cab, have the courtesy to decant it for at least a few hours. $240 larkmead.com

Will Harlan grew up helping his father make big-ticket cult wines in the Napa Valley. Made from vines deemed too young for Harlan Estates, Bond, and Promontory, this Cabernet Sauvignon aged five years in the barrel offers the everyman a chance to taste greatness. $140 mascotwine.com

Plum, raspberry, and nutmeg are the hallmarks of this rose sparkler from the sparkling house launched in 1974. Nutty caramel rounds out the palate, derived from aging on the “lees” or yeast. We like it as a dessert pairing. $60 chandon.com

Aging a wine on its yeast, or lees, confers complexity to a sparkling wine. Traditional Champagne must be aged at least three years, and most producers wait between five and eight. That’s why this 10-year-tirage bottle is worth seeking out. You’ll get amplified brioche characteristics along with poached quince and currants. $80 argylewinery.com

Schramsberg Vineyards

2018 COLUMBIA VALLEY RED

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017

2015 CABERNET SAUVIGNON

ROSE

TIRAGE BRUT

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2017 BLANC DE BLANCS

While Blanc de Noirs sparkling is made from Pinot Noir grapes, the Blanc de Blancs variety is layered and complex, toasty with citrus midpalate, a great pairing partner for seafood dishes. For a splurge, opt for the 2000 latedisgorged J. Schramm. $41 schramsberg.com

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WT: XXX PF: XX ZO: XX

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Sunset Page Template.indd 1 SUNSET_HOUSE_ADS_GARDEN_APRON.indd 78

11/3/20 11/2/20 7:29 9:23 PM PM

HOME WFH for the Holidays A creative compound in Sonoma is the ultimate livework space for a designminded family—and the perfect place to hunker down for the holidays By HUGH GARVEY

GARDEN

. Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

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Well-placed overhangs, concrete floors, louvered windows, and sliding doors all keep the house at a comfortable temperature year round.

idway between Santa Rosa and Bodega Bay, there’s a swath of forest dotted with fir trees, vintage birdhouses, plantings of medicinal herbs, and other enchanted woodsy things. In the midst of this wonderfully styled wild sits a low-slung house sited just so, with a floor-to-ceiling glazing to frame the manicured lawn and forest beyond, an elegant little pool, and an ever-evolving collection of books, art, furniture, textiles, and, most of all, life. Welcome to the home of Becky Kelso and Dave Kovner, two designers who call this cozy corner of Sonoma County home, along with their daughter, Cleo, and adorable pit bull, Otis. Eternally creative— and iterative—Dave and Becky also call their property a work in progress: Designed by a One month the paintings Becky’s grandmother painted will be in the hallfirm specializing way, yet another time they’ll be perched above a vintage credenza. Mexiin commercial buildings, the lowcan hot-chocolate cups ring a ‘70s-era Swiss Cremina coffee maker. slung house is sturdier and more energy-efficient than most residential dwellings.

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The lushly planted pools of Bali inspired Dave and Becky to come up with the modern Northern California analog anchored by minimalist landscaping.

The house is a blend of old and new: a credenza built by Becky's grandfather, a vintage kamado grill from Japan; paintings of the original structures on the property sit near a garland of California Bay Laurel; a vintage Dutch camping tent serves as a popup guesthouse.

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Behind the Jewelry Becky shares the story behind her jewelry: 1. “The 22-karat charm necklace is a For now. “We’re constantly moving compilation of maternal heirlooms: a four-leafed clover from my mom, bezelthings around,” says Dave. “Let’s just wrapped slices of opal I sourced while studying jewelry fabrication in San Miguel say our house is unresolved.” de Allende Mexico in the ‘80s, an18-karat cardamon pod, the pearl and Georgian citrine heart were my grandmother’s 2. Natural opal rondelle strands layered with The house is a dream. Radiant handmade 22-karat matte beads 3. Labradorite 14-karat earrings have herons floors warm it in winter, the property engraved on their backs 4. Lapis and blue topaz earrings inspired by Georgian abuts a world-class vineyard, the antique settings 5. Rose-cut diamonds and ruby rings set in lacy bezels.” Go to beckykelso.com for more pieces. pool—inspired by a Balinese retreat the Rolling Stones favored—offers a cooling plunge in the warm Sonoma summers. But most of all it’s an in2 door outdoor gallery/factory open to friends and family come the holidays. There’s a guest cottage, a vintage Dutch guest tent, and plenty of space for folks to post up in the woods, use 3 the outdoor shower shielded by a stand of podocarpus, and soak in the wintry wine country vibes. It also 1 happens to be HQ for the couple’s two businesses, further blurring the line between work and life—something we’re all too familiar with these days. But for them it works: They’ve been doing it for decades. Becky is a jewelry designer who channels her world travels into elegant casual rings, necklaces, and ear5 rings festooned with precious stones. Dave designs catalogs for iconic brands such as Pendleton, Pottery Barn, and Restoration Hardware, setting up real and imaginary houses stocked with furniture, rugs, and blankets that represent the idealized western lifestyle. Walking around their house and property is like immersing yourself in a three-dimensional inspiration board. While you’ll find pieces from these brands, mostly they collect objects you can’t get in a catalog: Even before working from paintings of the original hunthome became a ing cabin that sat on the lot, pandemic reality sunbleached old wooden ladfor many people, Dave and Becky ders patina’d with lichen, bascreated a cokets, driftwood, taxidermy, and working office a stunning mid-century crewith views of their flower denza built by Becky’s grandfagarden. ther, topped with surplus hall tile from LAX. The backstory of the house is equally familial and one of a kind: the four-acre plot, enviably sited between

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Dave, Becky, Otis, and Cleo warm up with Mexican hot cocoa by a vintage Malm fireplace (a major thrift store score) manufactured in nearby Santa Rosa. The vintage Bertoia chairs are draped with Pendleton blankets to provide extra warmth when the sun sets.

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a quiet country road and a vineyard, was originally owned by Becky’s grandmother, a painting teacher who once went on a date with Salvador Dalí. Becky bought it from her some 20 years ago, when it was a shingled hunting shack, with very little insulation but tons of charm. Several years ago they built the new house, which is made of structural integrated panels by a firm that specialized in commercial buildings. The efficiency and solidity of that method of design paid off: Thanks to cross breezes and robust insulation and its concrete floors, the house stays cool in the hot Sonoma summers, even without central air conditioning. Come winter it stays toasty due to radiant heating in those same floors. Since they moved there, Dave and Becky have hosted annual holiday gatherings from summer to winter: For the 4th of July people come and camp out under the firs. This winter they’ll have friends drive over and celebrate outside, sipping hot cocoa huddled (socially distanced, of course) near the vintage Malm fireplace on blanket-draped Bertoia chairs (both thrift store finds). As a pop-up guest house, the couple has outfitted a sturdy vintage canvas Dutch tent with teak furniture, twinkle lights, and a thick futon topped with a down duvet. Being in the forest has its pros and cons: The towering fir trees offer shade and privacy but they also need to be thinned every year. The latter being a bonus come December: Free Christmas trees. A California Bay Laurel offers enough leaves to make fragrant garlands for guests so they can take a beautiful element of this ever-evolving property into their homes too.

Indoor–outdoor living is as crucial as ever these days: the floorto-ceiling sliding glass doors throughout the house allow for easy circulation of both friends and family and fresh air.

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Your Winter Garden Checklist Edited by NICOLE CLAUSING Contributions by KATHLEEN BRENZEL, JOHANNA SILVER, MIKE IRVINE Photograph by CLAIRE TAKACS

A view of the gardens at Daniel Hinkleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home, featured in Windcliff: A Story of People, Plants, and Gardens. See review page 58.

All Regions PLANT

To dispel winter gloom, grow potted, fancy-leafed scented geraniums in a sunny window. They are available in a wide range of flower and leaf colors, sizes, and fragrances. For abundant indoor bloom, try Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), whose birdlike flowers come in orange, pink, violet, and white. Grow containers of mint on a sunny windowsill, using fresh sprigs for cooking, as garnishes, and to make tea. Mint is available in many different flavors— look for apple, chocolate, ginger, and pineapple, as well as peppermint and spearmint. MAINTAIN

Add liquid fertilizer to winterflowering indoor plants, such as moth orchids and Christmas gift plants, during bloom. Always use half-strength when fertilizing indoor plants. Record your winter lows. Microclimates can cause certain areas to be cooler or warmer than reported temperatures in those general locations. Track air temperatures throughout the winter to get an idea of what to expect in your garden when chilly weather is forecast. Remove the foil or plastic around gift poinsettias to ensure good drainage. Let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings, and be sure to water only the soil, not the leaves. Give the plant five to six hours of filtered sunlight per day; keep it at 70° to 80° during the day and 50° to 60° at night.

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If houseplants stretch and grow leggy and spindly, they need more light. Gradually move them to a sunnier situation, such as an east- or south-facing window. After the holidays, move your cut Christmas tree to an out-ofthe-way area of your garden to provide shelter for birds. For an added treat, dress it with birdseed ornaments. Trap fungus gnats that plague household plants by putting a mixing bowl filled with soapy water below a light left on overnight. Dump out the bowl and the bugs in the morning. Get a jump on spring by getting chainsaws, chipper-shredders, mowers, blowers, tillers, and string trimmers tuned up and blades replaced or sharpened. Look for a shop that does small engine maintenance and repair. PROTECT

If you’ve worn a trail through your lawn or flower bed, turn it into a real path. Dig out the top 6 inches of soil; fill with 4 inches of crushed rock; water and roll or tamp it firm; then top with 2 inches of crushed quarter-minus gravel. Reduce the risk of fire by clearing debris from your yard, pruning any tree limbs closer than 15 feet from the roof, and maintaining a buffer of low-growing, irrigated plants around your home.

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B O O K W E LOV E

On a windswept bluff overlooking Puget Sound grows one of the most stunning, ambling, lyrical collections of palms, maples, flowers, and shrubs on the West Coast. This is garden designer and botanical philosopher Daniel J. Hinkley’s home and masterpiece, celebrated in Windcliff, equal parts memoir, meditation, and blueprint for creating your own slice of heaven. An inspiration to all gardeners, no matter where they live in the West. Windcliff: A Story of People, Plants, and Gardens $26, timberpress.com

Collect cornhusks, pinecones, rose hips, and seed pods from flowers such as poppies or scabiosa for holiday centerpieces. Group in a shallow bowl or use one for each setting. To prolong your lettuce season, pick only the outer leaves each time you harvest and keep the center rosette intact. For a larger harvest, snip all the leaves, leaving an inch of stems at the base, and the entire crop will regrow in two to three weeks. Begin harvesting brussels sprouts from the bottom of the stalk when sprouts are just smaller than a golf ball. Remove any leaves below harvested sprouts to prevent yellowing. MAINTAIN

After leaves fall, spray peach and nectarine trees with copper sulfate to kill peach-leaf curl, a fungus that reduces fruiting.

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Lay 3 inches of bark mulch or pine needles on dirt pathways to keep mud down and prevent tracking it into the house. PROTECT

When frost is predicted, protect avocado and citrus trees, especially young ones, by wrapping their trunks and covering their canopies with cloth overnight. (Burlap placed over a removable wood frame works well for small trees; it keeps cold cloth from touching leaves.) If a hard frost is predicted, deeply water all trees so they’ll be better able to tolerate the cold temps. Move houseplants away from windows if their leaves seem to be burning in the strong summer sun. Be sure to keep plants watered in air-conditioning; dry air is hard on them.

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Northwest

PLANT

For color, plant all kinds of camellias, heaths, hellebores, Mahonia x media ‘Charity,’ and winter-blooming viburnums. For fragrance, try daphne, sweet box (Sarcococca species), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), or witch hazel (Hamamelis). To multiply evergreens, scrape a bean-size patch of bark off the bottom of a low branch, dust the wound with rooting hormone, and anchor the branch to the soil with a brick. The scraped part will root over winter. Cut it free next fall and replant. HARVEST

Clip winter greenery for swags and boughs. Make each cut just beyond a side branch (don’t leave stubs), keeping the plant’s finished shape in mind as you snip. Work from the bottom of the plant to the top, and from the inside out.

MAINTAIN

Throw weeds, spent flowers, and vegetable waste into a compost bin at least 3 feet wide and high. Turn and water the pile occasionally, and you’ll have compost by spring. Apply liquid fertilizer to winterblooming houseplants lightly at flowering time, but wait until spring growth begins to feed other kinds. Check for standing water in the garden. Where you find it, dig drainage channels or convert the area to a rain garden, filling it with moisture lovers like gunneras, rushes, sedges, and dwarf willows. PROTECT

When snow falls in mild parts of the Northwest, it is usually wet and heavy. Sweep it off landscape plants and trees (a gentle swipe with a broom works nicely) before they are broken or deformed.

CLAIRE TAKACS

HARVEST

To smother any overwintering insects, spray roses and fruit trees with horticultural oil. Apply when no rain is due for a week.

THOMAS J. STORY

N. California

Southwest

PLANT

Grow Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) indoors or on a patio. This long-living flowering houseplant thrives in bright indirect sunlight. Water and feed it weekly with liquid cactus and succulent fertilizer while it’s in bloom. HARVEST

Pick olives, green or black, depending on preference, and cure using an easy salt brine. MAINTAIN

Feed succulents that begin to grow after summer dormancy. Give those in containers a halfstrength dose of fertilizer. Rejuvenate Mediterranean plants such as germander (Teucrium), lavender, rosemary, and santolina by pruning plants to the lowest new growth. As weather cools, increase the number of days between watering, but maintain the length of each irrigation cycle. Most established landscape plants only need a drink once or twice monthly in winter. PROTECT

If you get caught on a cold night without enough frost cloth for plants, improvise: Wrap the trunks of young citrus trees with holiday lights to generate warmth and then cover with old cotton sheets to retain warmth. For lower growers, try newspaper or overturned cardboard boxes. Drape the fabric, paper, or cardboard all the way to the ground and secure it around the plant to collect radiant heat from the earth.

Smother the eggs of aphids, mites, and scale insects by spraying dormant oil (find online or at your local nursery) on branches and trunks of deciduous fruit trees.

S. California

PLANT

From seedlings, grow coolweather veggies, including cabbage, carrots, chard, kohlrabi, and spinach. Set out bare-root fruit trees. In areas with the mildest winters, choose low-chill varieties. For apples, we like ‘Beverly Hills’ (near the coast), ‘Winter Banana,’ or ‘Winter Pearmain.’ For pears, ‘Monterrey’ or ‘Kieffer’ (an Asian pear hybrid). Finish planting spring bulbs. Keep them chilled in the refrigerator (bagged and away from apples) until you’re ready to put them in the ground. HARVEST

Make holiday decorations from the garden: citrus and apples spiked with cloves; rose hip clusters in foliage wreaths; grape and wisteria vines twisted into festive shapes; eucalyptus pods, pinecones, and acorns in magnolia-leaf garlands. MAINTAIN

Trim overly tall or dense ornamental trees and shrubs. Remove crossing or dead branches, and prune for shape. Never top a tree. Hire a certified arborist if needed. As deciduous ornamental grasses turn brown, leave them in place to enjoy their structure through winter, or cut them back to 4 to 6 inches. They’ll sprout new growth in spring.

To encourage roses to go dorDig the last of root vegetamant, stop feeding them and cut bles (including beets, carrots, back on watering. parsnips, and rutabagas) and store in an unheated PROTECT garage or basement that If plants get hit by frost, resist stays around 34°. When you the urge to prune away injured harvest, gently brush off tissue. The damaged parts will clinging soil but don’t wash protect inner growth from addi- until ready to use. Pack the tional harm should there be roots loosely in layers in a another frost. (Once spring cardboard box surrounded growth appears, you can cut off and separated by peat moss damaged areas above it.) or sawdust. Insulate frost-sensitive plants with floating row cover, which can raise the temperature inside the “tunnel” a few degrees while keeping out birds and pests. Use flexible PVC pipe to bend arches over edible crops in raised beds or in the ground, then drape the arches with row cover. It’s available at farm and garden stores.

Mountains

PLANT

Grow a living Christmas tree in a pot on your porch, and decorate it with miniature outdoor lights and waterproof ornaments. Keep the soil moist, cover with burlap when temperatures are predicted to drop below freezing, and transplant the tree to a bed in the garden in early spring. Pot up purple shamrock bulbs (Oxalis triangularis papilionacea ‘Atropurpurea’) in December for foliage in time for St. Patrick’s Day. Plant 1¼ inches deep and 3 inches apart in a peat-based mix. HARVEST

Clip rose hips from roses not treated with pesticides to make tea. Wash thoroughly; use five per cup and steep for about 10 minutes.

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MAINTAIN

Empty out spent containers, toss dead annuals and rootballs into the compost pile, and spread any loose potting soil several inches deep over your vegetable or flower gardens. (Used potting mixes containing coir, composted forest products, peat moss, perlite, pumice, sphagnum, or vermiculite make great soil amendments.) Spray dwarf conifers and broad-leafed evergreens with an antitranspirant to guard against dehydration and burn. After soil freezes, prevent root-damaging freeze/thaw cycles by covering landscape beds with 5 inches of loose hay, straw, pine needles, fallen leaves, or commercial forest mulch. Water to keep mulch from blowing away. PROTECT

Cover beets, carrots, turnips, and other root crops with a foot of leaves or straw to protect them from freezing temperatures, extending harvest for a month or more.

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IN THE DESERT

The most stylish Moroccan rug merchants in the West host a socially distanced holiday party in their mid-century Palm Springs home.

story by HUGH

GARVEY

photographs by THOMAS

J. STORY

P. 61

KENYA IS TRYING to get the outdoor lounging area for the holiday party just so: Fanned out on the lawn are three Moroccan rugs, one in chocolate and caramel striated with lines of varying width, another in psychedelic particolored purples, pinks, and royal blues, one is red and green like a Christmas wreath. She ditches that for being too on the nose. Taib, her husband, unfolds other options from a waisthigh stack of rugs and they finally

settle on the perfect three, tote out a tea table, and string a cactus with vintage Christmas lights. And magically there under the towering palms is a postcard-perfect place for guests to hang out at a socially distanced holiday party in Palm Springs. California Moroccan might be a design vibe some folks “curate” when they mix and match, say, an Eames shell chair with a leather pouf (always a good look), but for Kenya Knight and Taib Lotfi, it’s the nature of their relationship. They’re the owners of Soukie Modern, which might be the coolest little rug and housewares shop in Palm Springs, selling vintage

and new Moroccan rugs, housewares, and festival bags made of imported textiles. You’ve likely seen them on Instagram if you follow The Joshua Tree House or any number of other influencers who snap up and then share their wares, which stand out from the factory knockoffs with their array of vivid colors, subdued tones, and true Moroccan vintage vibes: Indeed, some of them are still dusty from the souks in Morocco where they originated. Taib was born in Morocco and is Berber, the indigenous people who’ve lived in the region for thousands of years. Kenya is from

Left: Kenya and Taib sit on matching peacock chairs surrounded by the stunning vintage rugs and wall hangings they sell at their boutique Soukie Modern.

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“ Berber weavers are prolific artisans and they weave the stories of their lives into their rugs with love.”

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Kenya and Taib’s house is a perfect example of an Alexander home, the modular houses designed by architect William Krisel. But the couple eschews the obvious Atomic Age look for an organic modern multiethnic vibe.

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Los Angeles, a Los Feliz native who runs a modeling agency in town when she’s not appearing in their viral videos, voguing imported rugs Taib sources from a network of makers and buyers back in his home country. They’re also the owners of the coolest little Airbnb in Palm Springs. The couple have put their distinct touch on the spot, bringing in their own rugs and blankets, framed Navajo textiles that inspire them, and one-of-kind pieces of furniture like butterfly chairs, albeit draped with vintage Moroccan fabric with the iconic frames cast in solid brass. And those snack tables? Those were Lucille Ball’s. Oh, and they also have an Eames shell chair and a leather pouf. Except theirs is a real Eames and the pouf is gold… and of course Taib sourced it from friends back at the souk in Marrakech. For a couple with a business that’s blossomed on instagram, Kenya and Taib’s relationship appropriately began on the platform back in 2014 when Kenya was shopping for an affordable Moroccan rug and stumbled upon the page Taib was running from Marrakech at the time. Taib was the first person in the souk to use social media to market his rugs. A friendship grew quickly and the two became a couple when she went to Marrakech on a trip. “If I hadn’t found his account I probably would’ve settled for a knock-off rug from one of the big brand stores,” says Kenya. Most of the affordable “Moroccan” rugs aren’t made in Morocco and no proceeds or credit go back to the original makers. “It’s cultural appropriation at its

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Fig Old Fashioned

Moroccan 75

Tea in the Kasbah

MAKES 1 / 5 MINUTES

SERVES 1 / 5 MINUTES

MAKES 1 / 5 MINUTES

Dried figs add just a bit of tannin and even more caramel notes to bourbon. Orange bitters and peel take the drink in a decidedly holiday direction. Fig bourbon can be made by steeping eight figs cut in half in a half-liter of bourbon overnight.

This variation on the crisp and effervescent French 75 champagne cocktail gets its blush from the simple addition of pomegranate molasses. To make molasses reduce 12 oz of Pom Juice over medium heat by half. Then add 6 oz of dry sugar and stir until dissolved. Add a few dashes of orange flower water. When it cools it will thicken.

2 oz fig-infused bourbon dash orange bitters 1 sugar cube orange peel soda water • Add sugar cube to a double Old

Fashioned glass and add orange bitters. Add a dash of soda water and muddle the sugar cube and bitters until the sugar starts to dissolve a little. Pour in bourbon and stir to fully dissolve. Add ice and stir again to chill. Flame orange peel over the drink and rim the glass with the expressed peel. Drop the peel in.

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1 oz gin 1/2 oz pomegranate molasses ½ oz lemon juice 3 oz chilled sparkling wine, such as cava, prosecco, or champagne • Shake all ingredients with ice

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except the champagne. Strain into a flute and top with the champagne. Garnish with a lemon peel.

1½ oz vodka 2 oz mint tea 1 oz lemon Juice 1 oz date syrup soda water fresh mint sprigs for garnish • Shake all ingredients except soda

water and strain over ice into a highball glass. Top with soda water and garnish with ample mint sprigs. • NOTE: If using store-bought date syrup, dilute it with an equal portion of water

highest,” says Kenya. “Berber weavers are prolific artisans and they weave stories of their lives into these rugs with love.” While the temperature can hover in the 70s during the day, at night it can drop into a cozy 40s, all the better for sitting by the fire. Kenya and Taib have assembled a group of friends to celebrate the holiday, desert style, with social distancing rules in effect. Their home lends itself to this sort of gathering: There are at the very least four distinct zones to hang out in—the expanse of lawn where the rugs have been laid out,

under the pergola in the dappled shade where throw pillows and a Moroccan tea table make the perfect setting for cocktails, a hammock, and the pool, with its numerous lounges and tea lights floating on it in trays. The menu is simple and true to Kenya and Taib and true to place. Taib makes a killer couscous. While the hardcore way to make a fluffy, next-level couscous is to make in the traiditional steamer, Taib does the next best thing: He bakes it in the oven in a closed vessel which steams the dish ever so gently, evenly

Kenya’s Desert Tree While you could put up a hodgepodge of decorations accumulated over the years, consider taking a cue from Kenya and find three statement pieces that stand out and complement each other. While the botanicals aren’t native, their colors echoe the desert hues—it’s maximalist minimalism at its finest.

BABY’S BREATH Kenya typically finds baby’s breath too fussy, but she saw its unique potential on a holiday tree. Threading sprigs throughout the boughs of the tree, the flowers echo white twinkle lights and are a sort of botanical snow.

PAMPAS GRASS Kenya’s inspired use of billowy pampas grass as a tree topper might be our favorite holiday decorating hack in years.

CITRUS CIRCLES Placing dehydrated navel oranges near twinkle lights adds a luminous natural glow to the tree. To make, preheat oven to 220◦F. Slice citrus into ¼-inch rounds, remove seeds, and bake from 2–3 hours, flipping every 45 minutes or so. Remove from oven before they begin to brown and let cool. Pierce a small hole near the peel using a knife or paper clip. Thread twine or ribbon through to hang on the tree.

Lauren Bojsen-Møller snaps a shareable holiday moment.

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cooking each grain. Afterwards he fluffs it by hand, further separating the grains so they’re ready to absorb the accompanying sauce and the other ingredients laid out for folks to customize their bowls. Today Taib has made a vegan version with roasted vegetables and a garlicky tomato sauce, but on other occasions he’s separately served it with braised meat on the

side so carnivores and vegetarians can partake in the same dish. Bonus: Tagines are perfect for making ahead of time so you can hang out with your guests. The cocktails on the menu tonight courtesy of their friend Steen Bojsen-Møller, beverage manager and co-owner of Palm Springs hot spots Seymour’s and Toucans. With bars at diminished capacity, Steen

has redirected his creativity into the California Moroccan drinks he created for the party. With effervescent Moroccan 75s tinged pink by pomegranate molasses, spiked tea, and figinfused Old Fashioneds in hands, Kenya, Taib, and their friends take turns serving themselves buffet style at the dining table and spread out on rugs throughout the yard to celebrate as the sun sets in the winter sky.

“ Kenya, Taib, and friends sip Moroccan 75s tinged pink by pomegranate molasses” Tea lights float on tea trays in the pool.

Nancy Deane and Laura Angelone toast with French 75s as the sun sets.

The sprawling yard allows for distinct socially distanced gathering spots.

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1. In a Dutch oven or large sauce

Taib’s Holiday Couscous SERVES 6 / 90 MINUTES

For this year’s holiday party, Taib made a strictly vegetarian version of his family’s couscous recipe, but at previous gatherings he’s offered a chicken variation as well. Cooking the tomato sauce, chicken, and vegetables separately allows guests to customize their plate to suit their tastes and dietary preferences. While you could simply make couscous according to the directions on the package, Taib’s oven-cooking method yields delightfully ethereal results.

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6 tbsps olive oil, divided 1 medium onion, one half diced, the other sliced 2 large skinless boneless chicken breasts 1 pinch saffron 1 tsp cumin powder 1 tsp turmeric powder 1 tsp paprika 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 tsp grated fresh ginger 1 28 oz can tomato purée 1 4 oz can of tomato paste 2 cups chicken broth 1 cup cremini mushroom, quartered 5 medium carrots 2 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley 1 zucchini, cut into rounds Handful of heirloom cherry tomatoes 2 cups of Bob’s Red Mill Golden Couscous 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 2 tbsp butter ¼ cup golden raisins ¼ cup chopped almonds Salt and pepper to taste

pan over medium heat, add 1 tbsp of olive oil. Add ½ cup of diced onion and cook until translucent, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes. Add chicken breasts to the pan. Add the saffron, cumin, turmeric, paprika, garlic, ginger, salt and pepper. Using tongs, turn the chicken in the spices and aromatics to coat well. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, giving the spices time to open up and season the chicken. Add the tomato purée, tomato paste, chicken broth, carrots, mushrooms, sliced onion, cilantro, and parsley, and let cook for 10 minutes. Add the zucchini and heirloom cherry tomatoes to the pan and cook for another 10 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Meanwhile, to make the couscous: Preheat oven to 350°F. Add couscous to a 3-quart rectangular baking dish (about 9 by 13 inches), drizzle with 1/4 cup of olive oil. Using a spoon, mix the couscous and olive oil together well and add salt and pepper as desired. Add 4 cups of water to the couscous. Cover pan tightly with tinfoil. Put in oven cook and cook for 15 to 18 minutes, or until couscous is tender. Remove from oven and fluff the couscous with a spatula. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Transfer to a large bowl and continue to fluff and mix together with a whisk, or, if you feel like it, use your hands to break any clumps of couscous into single grains. Add lemon juice, butter, almonds, and raisins. Mix together again and fluff with hands. Return couscous to the oven at 350°F for 5 minutes then serve.

Kenya and Taib transport rugs and holiday cheer in their 1957 Ford pickup truck.

PALM SPRINGS The hotbed of mid-century cool remains an essential destination There’s a reason Hollywood stars chose Palm Springs as their go-to getaway: The air was clear, the mountains stunning, and the striking desert compounds offered unparalleled privacy. Today, top-flight restorations sit alongside exciting new developments, making Palm Springs one of the top destinations for SoCal residents fleeing the city—for the weekend or forever. Here are some of our fave spots, with expert picks from local insider Kenya Knight.

1. Desert Chic

Taib and Kenya, our cover stars, run their eclectic and stylish boutique Soukie Modern in downtown Palm Springs. From rugs that really pull the room together to locally sourced antiques, there’s something for everyone’s digs. soukiemodern.com

5. Steakhouse Supreme

2.Vintage Vibes

If you want to go all-in on mod desert fashion, look no further than iconic contemporary resort wear genius Trina Turk’s flagship store for vibrant swim wear, caftans, and more. trinaturk.com

3.Glass From the Past

When designer Jonathan Adler needed to trick out The Parker Palm Springs with period-correct glassware, he sourced dozens of brightly colored bottles and vases from vintage housewares shop Bon Vivant, located in the Uptown Design District. psbonvivant.com

EAT 4.Sushi With a Twist

The idea behind chef Edgin Onural’s Sandfish in Palm Springs is to marry top-flight bourbon with handcrafted, high-quality sushi with a Scandanavian twist. We support this marriage. Sandfishps.com

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EXPERT PICK

An elevated reimagining of oldschool Palm Springs steakhouse Lyon’s English Grille, Mr. Lyons has all the nostalgic touchpoints plus contemporary flourishes: Think emerald green banquettes, Parker House rolls, Wagyu ribeye, and textbook executions of cocktails like the Vieux Carré. mrlyonsps.com

6. Strip-Mall Score

The Vietnamese-American fare at Rooster and the Pig works well no matter what the temperature outdoors: Go with spring rolls on a scorcher; opt for pho when the weather’s cool. roosterandthepig.com

EXPLORE 7. Hike With Spirit

The Agua Caliente band of Cuahilla Native Americans who once populated Palm Springs in great number considered the Tahquitz Canyon a locus of great spiritual importance. Their descendents now oversee this spiritual site and hiking trail. Pay the entrance fee—and pay respect to the land and its stewards—with a visit to the site. An hour-long hike takes you past ancient gathering sites, petroglyphs, and stone grinding sites culminating in a lush, 60-foot waterfall. tahquitzcanyon.com

SHOP

Mr. Lyons

8. Go Spike-Seeing

A “living museum of desert lore,” the Moorten Botanical Garden was established in 1938 and now plays home to 3,000 species of cacti, not to mention a handful of tortoises lazily lolling about. As an arboretum, it’s undeniably unique. moortenbotanicalgarden.com

EXPERT PICK

9. Quick Day Trip

High atop the San Jacinto Mountains, the alpine town Idyllwld has all the feels of a ski destination without the traffic. Just a 45-minute drive from Palm Springs, take this ultimate wintery day trip and enjoy the charming small town with its independently owned shops and restaurants. Bonus: Around the holidays there is often snow, which makes it all the merrier. Year-round activities include mountain biking, rock climbing, hiking trails and camping.

FROM LEFT: MATT BEAN; THOMAS J. STORY

Tahquitz Canyon

STAY 10. Hilltop Views

Up a winding road and overlooking the entire valley, the slope-side perch at The Ritz Carlton Rancho Mirage helps you stay far above the fray. ritzcarlton.com

11. One-of-a-Kind Luxury

Once the horse ranch of Gene Autrey, the 13-acre Parker Palm Springs started its life as the country’s first Holiday Inn. After being owned by TV titan Merv Griffin for years it was overhauled by designer Jonathan

Adler in 2004. Lush gardens and unique art installations make for a fresh experience no matter how many times you visit. parkerpalmsprings. com

13. Pool With A View

Two years ago the Kimpton hotel group’s The Rowan made a splash as the most stylish addition to downtown lodging. Its smart take on desert design includes guestrooms that tip a hat to mid-century without going overboard plus a rooftop pool with sweeping views of the mountains. rowanpalmsprings.com

12. Convivial Courtyard

Hammocks, a hot tub, and a centrally located pool are the stars of the courtyard at the 27-room Les Cactus, but our favorite pastime while staying a while is to pluck a piece of citrus down from the dozens of on-premises trees and give them a squeeze in the guest kitchen. Just add vodka! lescactusps.com

VALUE PICK

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Our Covers. Your Walls.

We recently uncovered a trove of posters litho-printed decades ago, featuring some of Sunset’s greatest classic covers—and now we’re offering them to you. Show off your pride in the West, and get them while they last at shop.sunset.com.

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COURTESY OF THE RANCH AT ROCK CREEK

By MATT BEAN and HUGH GARVEY

A rustic but well-appointed riverside cabin at The Ranch at Rock Creek in Montana.

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A sprawling Westworld for well-heeled cowboy wannabes, this rustic showstopper features top-flight fishing and shooting programs and a honkytonk complete with saddles for barstools and a two-lane bowling alley. Pricey, but one-of-a-kind. theranchatrockcreek.com

JINGLE BONES A festive antler installation in front of the main lodge at the Ranch at Rock Creek.

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Armory Hotel One of our favorite towns in the West, Bozeman is the portal to loads of outdoor recreation in Montana. The Bridger Bowl ski area, Chico and Mammoth Hot Springs, and Yellowstone National Park are all within day-trip distance. And back at the hotel, you’ll find Kimptonstyle interiors wrapped in a historic armory shell. armoryhotelbozeman.com

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This 12-room hotel dates back to 1889, an era it tries hard to preserve thanks to barnwood floors and its sturdy limestone exterior. If the on-piste aprés scene is too rowdy for you, the pool here is guests only. washingtonschoolhouse.com SUNSET

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Spreading out on the slopes is more important during the pandemic, which makes the 380-acre “Sunrise” parcel at Sun Valley clutch this winter. Fed by a four-wide quad lift (again, avoid the gondola if you can), it offers runs that promise to be both steep and deep this winter. Bonus: The historic chaletstyle Sun Valley Lodge is fresh off a complete interior remodel last year, which makes it a great crash pad for après drinks with your ski-bubble buddies. sunvalley.com

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Wilder Hope Valley A riff on the classic mountain resort, this collection of rustic cabins and modernized vintage trailers offers a welcoming Lake Tahoe home base. Snowshoeing on property, nearby hot springs, and other winter pursuits help round out the package of this affordable property, nearing 100 years of operation. wylderhotels.com

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Situated in a hidden gem of a town, Silverton, Colorado, the Wyman punches above its weight. The real draw: adventure in the nearby Wiemenuche Wilderness. Design-wise, you’ll find the 1902 digs updated in neo-Scandi form with rustic touches. thewyman.com

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On a remote ranch in southern Montana, one horse trainer mirrors her charges: resilient, enduring, and, despite long odds, flourishing.

“Fate” is a word you don’t see a lot of on LinkedIn. But most career paths are influenced, in some way or another, by fortune, whim, or some combination thereof. For Jackie Kecskes, however, divine inspiration came in a most peculiar form: A beat-up, bootleg copy of the Nickelodeon television series Hey Dude. This was 2007, and a torn ACL had landed the Division I college soccer player in the hospital for a stint. Named for its setting on a Tuscon, Arizona, dude ranch, Hey Dude aired on the network from the late 1980s to the early ’90s—and had been a favorite of hers, in passing anyway. Now, fully immersed in the adventures of the teenage ranch hands, poring over one episode after another, Jackie punched through the nostalgia barrier to reach a form of clarity, transcendence. The self-described “total Valley Girl” whirled down a rabbit hole of ranch-related searches, bent on leaving Calfiornia behind. And finally: There it was. A summer position on a ranch in Colorado. “It just kind of took ahold of me,” Jackie says. So much so that after completing her degree from California State

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Northridge in the San Fernando Valley, she took a job as a teacher in a town conveniently located just outside said ranch, and then, when summer came around, launched her ranching career and never looked back. “When I told my mom I wanted to be a teacher, you couldn’t get a word in between the two of us because of the yelling,” Jackie recalls of telling her parents, Hungarian conservatives. “They went without for so long, and now I’m choosing a profession that makes zero money.” But life on the ranch offered different riches for Jackie, delivering a sense of camaraderie she had never before experienced. “We became like a family.”

THE PLIGHT OF THE MUSTANG

Decades before Jackie would approach her personal fork in the road, President Richard Nixon signed into law a bill declaring wild, free-roaming horses and burros “fast disappearing from the American scene” to be “living symbols of the historic and pioneer spirit of the West; that contribute to the diversity of life forms within the Nation and enrich the lives of the American people.” Say what you will of Nixon, but the 1971 Wild Free Roaming Horses and Burro Act marked the culmination of a lifetime of efforts by Velma Bronn Johnston, better known as Wild Horse Annie, to protect wild horses and ensure their humane treatment. Johnston had witnessed firsthand the brutal eradication of mustangs and other breeds, which were rounded up, hog tied, and slaughtered for chicken feed and fertilizer. The picture today, when it comes to mustangs, in particular, is more complex than simple right and wrong. New policies, even those with good intentions, can have downstream effects few crusaders could have imagined. Protected under the act, the population of the mustang, which derives its name from the Spanish word mesteño, or “running wild,” began to spike to unprecedented numbers, worrying ecologists that overgrazing could damage much of the West’s already fragile ecosystems.

TOO MANY MUSTANGS?

Officials from The Wildlife Society testified in September 2020 before the National Wild Horse and Burro Advisory Board, asking the Bureau of Land Management to expedite the reduction of wild horse populations on public lands. The goal, said Keith Norris, The Wildlife Society’s director of wildlife policy and communications: to avoid the “increasingly negative ecological effects wild horses and burros” have on “the ability of wildlife professionals to do their own public mandate of conserving native wildlife species.” Proposed reduction methods, however, signal a welcome departure from the barbaric measures taken in the past. According to a recent report submitted to Congress by the BLM, population reductions over the next 15 to 18 years are to be achieved through a combination of innovative short- and long-term fertility control methods, the transfer of approximately 20,000 horses per year from public rangelands into off-range holding facilities, and the arrangement of additional off-range corrals and private facilities to adequately care for the transferred horses. Additionally, the proposal comes with a significant emphasis on getting more horses into private care, with the goal of at least 6,000 annual adoptions. That’s where the team at Paws Up, a 37,000-acre resort in Greenough, Montana, hopes to be a difference maker. The sprawling property has adopted 12 mustangs that Jackie says have adapted well to life there. Today, the mustangs at Paws Up serve active roles through interactive guest workshops and resort activities that emphasize desensitization and comfort, for the horses and visitors. “We share the BLM’s commitment to horse rescue and to protecting and preserving mustangs as living symbols of the West’s pioneering spirit and as beautiful creatures worthy of our care,” Paws Up Mustang and Horse Rescue management says. “It’s been an awe-inspiring journey of discovery and transformation as the mustangs have acclimated to their new home. We can’t wait to introduce you to the newest members of our family.”

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To alleviate the growing apprehension, the Bureau of Land Management created parameters for ecological sustainability known as appropriate management levels, a measure designed to preserve the equilibrium between all wildlife and their corresponding habitats. Under these guidelines, a cap sent wild horses exceeding appropriate management levels into holding pens, where, in a perfect world, they would enjoy a brief stay prior to adoption. The only problem: Adoption rates have repeatedly failed to come even remotely close to the soaring number of horses lingering in these short-term facilities, creating an interminable logjam that has hijacked funds once allocated for long-term pasture care for ongoing maintenance purposes instead. In turn, overcrowded short-term facilities can no longer afford to bring in additional wild horses to await adoptions that may never come. As a result, many wild horses live out their lives in these holding facilities while the population of horses on public lands continues to surge beyond what was once considered the appropriate management level. “As of March 1, 2020, the wild horse and burro population on public lands was estimated to be about 95,000, which is more than triple the number of animals the land can sustainably support in balance with other public resource values, including wildlife, recreation, livestock grazing, energy resource development and others,” the Bureau of Land Management announced in August. Excess mustang populations and the scores of horses unable to live out natural lives on long-term pasture facilities has made adoption more critical than ever. But adoption, as Jackie can attest, is only the first step toward a successful solution. Training a wild mustang can, to no one’s surprise, be an intimidating task. Sometimes, it takes the perspective of an outsider to provide a necessary breath of fresh air.

‘TOO BIG A PERSONALITY’ Early into her Nickelodeon-inspired career, Jackie set a course: She wanted to become a ranch horse manager. Those working the male-dominated job, however, weren’t as keen on welcoming her into the club. Men on the Colorado ranch frequently scoffed at Jackie’s aspirations, often calling her “obtuse” or “too big a personality.” “I had to hear, ‘We’re just looking for that classic male cowboy look,’ or, ‘We’re just not willing to figure out housing for a female,’ or ‘We’re just not convinced that the physical aspects of this job can be handled by a woman.’” Adding to the gender impasse were Jackie’s alternative training philosophies, which ran counter to the conventional wisdom where she practiced. “In the horse world, everybody knows everything,” Jackie says. “And you can’t tell anybody anything.” Jackie knew she needed to look elsewhere to pursue her dream. That’s when

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she discovered the Resort at Paws Up, a dude ranch outside of Missoula where the well-heeled go to put on the velvet cowboy gloves. Jackie’s teaching background and enthusiasm convinced the resort to bring her aboard to redesign the children’s program. It was Jackie’s then-boyfriend, not her, who landed her job as the lead horse manager at Paws Up. But that relationship ran its course, she says, and when he left the ranch, Jackie raised her hand. “I was very honest with them,” she says. “I told them I didn’t have the same level of experience, but I’d work my butt off. That was good enough for them. Four years later and here I am.” Jackie tried early into her tenure as horse manager to get mustangs to the property at Paws Up, but says her initial requests were answered with a hard “No.” Much like Jackie, the wild horses came with a perceived personality that was too big for life on a resort. But as has become a theme in her professional pursuits, persistence paid off. Before long the property welcomed the arrival of its first set of mustangs, which Jackie quickly recognized as “a very different breed” that no one on the staff had any knowledge about. In many ways, the staff’s unfamiliarity leveled what was previously a lopsided playing field. “At the other ranch I thought for a while that maybe I had to dumb myself down,” she says. “I lost myself for a little while there, thinking maybe I needed to talk a certain way, be a little more girly, or ask for help. “Eventually I realized you have to just be who you are. Instead of trying to adapt to fit in, you have to find a place that’s willing to accept you for who you are.”

NATUR AL HORSEMANSHIP

Paws Up not only accepted Jackie’s “big personality” but went the extra mile by embracing the unique training methods, often referred to as natural horsemanship, that she brought to the table. Among Jackie’s philosophical inspirations were the doctrines of Buck Brannaman, a renowned trainer who’s “probably the closest thing there is to what people would call a horse whisperer,” Jackie jokes, adding that “he’s also the first person who would punch you in the face for calling him that.” Brannaman, who is the subject of the documentary Buck, is described on his website as “one of the world’s leading practitioners of handling horses based on classical concepts from the California vaquero tradition,” an approach that emphasizes “working with the horse’s nature, using an understanding of how horses think and communicate to train the horse to accept humans and work confidently and responsively with them.” The ultimate goal with this approach, according to

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Brannaman’s program, is to make “the animal feel safe and secure” and to ensure “the horse and rider can achieve a true union.” Much of the onus in Brannaman’s method is placed on the human rather than the animal. “If you don’t like the result that you’re getting, it’s not the horse’s fault. It’s your fault,” Jackie says. “You’re not communicating properly. Most people don’t want that level of accountability. When you tell someone there’s a better approach to something, it rubs them the wrong way.” As with the property’s recently adopted mustangs, which Jackie now describes as “happy and enthusiastic,” horses brought to Paws Up traditionally arrive with little to no training. From there, Jackie and her team of trainers begin what they prefer to call the horse’s “education.” “First, there’s the old-school cowboy method of breaking them—which much of the Western world still uses— where they tie the horse’s neck tight around a post so it can’t move,” she says. “The entire time this horse is bucking and rearing to do whatever it can to save its life. Another cowboy will come up and grab or rope the hind leg and then back the horse up so it’s stretched as far out as it

can go. Eventually it exhausts itself and accepts its fate. “But we believe in educating our horses instead of beating them senseless.” This method, which separates the crew at Paws Up from many of the country’s equestrian centers, comes from a place of empathy. Horses look at humans with the distrust of a predator due to the appearance of our forward-facing eyes, Jackie says, which the animal can notice even from a great distance. Learning how to extinguish that skepticism is what creates a willing partner in the relationship, she says. The team at Paws Up accomplishes this by presenting the horse with options. If it reacts with a fight-or-flight response, they simply allow it. “But when that doesn’t get the horse its desired result, which is me leaving it alone, it’s going to start looking for other things,” Jackie says. “Being left alone by the predator is a reward for the horse. All of a sudden, trust is being built because you’re giving this animal the opportunity to make mistakes and you’re not punishing it. “The key is always to be consistent, because inconsistency is the killer of trust.”

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Despite the hard road she faced breaking into the world of horse training, the trailblazing ranch hand is now finding herself to be something of a role model to a mostly female staff at Paws Up. “It’s just crazy to see where I am now,” she says, “to be around all of these empowered women who come because they want that sisterhood.” The familial atmosphere at Paws Up has also extended to visitors, where Jackie uses equine therapy on teenagers and adults who have endured a traumatic experience. Having entrusted their well-being to Jackie and her staff, the mustangs at Paws Up now give their human companions an intimate window to their own strengths. Even Jackie, who has now been immersed in the Hey Dude lifestyle for nearly a third of her existence, says she, too, is perpetually learning from her mustangs. “How to present yourself, how to live with empathy for one another, how to approach things in a way that encourages people to want to be a part of your team, and how to believe in yourself without being prideful.” “They teach us so much,” she says.

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ABOUT PAWS UP Scattered across Paws Up’s 37,000 acres of mountains, rivers, and meadows are 28 luxury cabins available year-round. May through October, 36 glamping sites are available as well. Cabins range in price from $1,700 to $5,235 per night, based on season and occupancy. Rates for the resort’s luxury tents, which provide up to three bedrooms and 1,200 square feet of space, start at $1,560 per night. Onsite activities include horseback riding, archery, hot air ballooning, helicopter tours, dog sledding, fly fishing, canoeing, backcountry ATV tours, and more. Nightly rates include round-trip transportation from and to Missoula International Airport, complimentary use of a luxury Lexus SUV, and an array of recreational activities. pawsup.com

COURTESY OF THE RESORT AT PAWS UP

‘THEY TEACH US SO MUCH’

West Essentials { OUR PICKS FOR WHAT’S ESSENTIAL IN THE WEST }

Tempe Tourism Office Tempe’s working hard to ensure your visit is safe and fun. Enjoy great shopping, poolside sunsets, hiking and delicious dining. Check out our Tempe’s Travel Safely Checklist and plan a trip to Tempe today. VisitTempe.com

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United States Postal Service—2019 Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation 1. Publication title: Sunset. 2. USPS publication code: 0057-9690. 3. Filing date: October 1, 2020. 4. Frequency: Bi-Monthly; 5. Number of issues annually: 6. 6. Annual subscription price: $28. 7. Complete mailing address of known office of publication: P.O.Box 15688, Beverly Hills, CA 90209. 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business office of publisher: Sunset Publishing Corporation, P.O. Box 15688, Beverly Hills, CA 90209. 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Shawn Byers, 1919 Gallows Road, Suite 400, Vienna, VA 22182; Editor: Matt Bean, P.O. Box 15688, Beverly Hills, CA 90209; Managing Editor, N/A. 10. Owner: Sunset Publishing Corporation; P.O. Box 15688, Beverly Hills, CA 90209; Michael A. Reinstein, 9720 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 600, Beverly Hills, CA 90212; 11. Known bondholders, mortgages, and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent of more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities: None. 12. Tax status: Has not changed during preceding 12 months. 13. Publisher title: Sunset. 14. Issue date for circulation data below: March/April 2020. 15. Extent and nature of circulation:

a. Total number of copies printed (net press run): b. Paid circulation 1. Mailed outside-county paid subscriptions: 2. Mailed in-county paid subscriptions: 3. Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors and counter sales: 4. Paid distribution through other classes of mail through the USPS: c. Total paid distribution: d. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail or outside mail): 1. Free or nominal outside-county: 2. Free or nominal rate in-county copies: 3. Free or nominal rate copies mailed at other classes through the USPS: 4. Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail: e. Total free or nominal rate distribution: f. Total distribution: g. Copies not distributed: h. Total: i. Percent paid: 16. Electronic copy circulation: a. Paid Electronic Copies: b. Total Paid Print Copies + Paid Electronic Copies: c. Total Print Distribution + Paid Electronic Copies: d. Percent Paid:

Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months

Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date

707,704

558,095

505,004 0 33,378 0 538,382

380,853 0 39,336 0 420,189

101,243 0 0 2,314 103,557 641,939 65,766 707,704 83.9%

76,354 0 0 1,643 77,997 498,186 59,909 558,095 84.3%

41,488 579,870 683,427 84.8%

40,862 461,051 539,048 85.5%

I certify that 50% of all distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid above nominal price: Yes. 17. Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in the Hearth & Home 2020 issue of this publication. 18. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanction and civil actions - Shawn Byers. NOTICE TO SUBSCRIBERS In the event that we are unable to effect the delivery of your subscription to Sunset for any reason beyond our control, our obligation is limited to the resumption of your subscription when we are able to do so. If we remain unable to resume delivery within 24 calendar months from the date of interruption, we will have no further obligation under your subscription agreement.

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SUNSET

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VOICES OF THE WEST

In-N-Out. When I moved to California in 1992 a wine aficionado in Los Angeles took me to my first In-N-Out in his big Range Rover and said it would be the best hamburger I’d ever had. He brought a half bottle of red Zinfandel that we drank with our burgers and that was the moment that forever changed my impression of what fast food could be. My new restaurant Burgers and Half Bottles in Yountville is my ode to that moment some 29 years ago. Is it harder to blow people’s minds with food now that elevated California cuisine is everywhere?

Keller Knows Best

America’s most influential chef dishes on the power of burgers, the definition of California cuisine, and the importance of paying it forward. Thomas Keller is arguably the most important chef in America, though the humble culinary genius would likely say otherwise. In the middle of a pandemic with restaurants closing left and right, he dropped a gift just when we needed it: The French Laundry, Per Se cookbook, a gorgeous compendium of recipes and stories about how the two sister restaurants operate at the highest level. Here he shares the long view on how we got to this moment in restaurants and food. Interview by Hugh Garvey

When you talk about California cuisine, that really revolves around Alice Waters, who was one of the first people to ask: Where are we getting our food, how nutritious is it, and how do we support the people growing it? At the same time in Washington, D.C., the French chef Jean-Louis Palladin was asking the same questions. He opened so many American chefs’ eyes, including mine, because I was a French chef. So the food revolution we take for granted was fought by many.

So many people in the early ‘70s spawned what we have today. There’s what I call the trilogy: Chuck Williams, Julia Child, and Robert Mondavi. Mondavi created the Napa Valley Vintners Association in 1944 and now there are 400

vineyards in the Valley. Before Chuck Williams and Williams-Sonoma, who knew what a mandolin was or a copper pot? And Julia’s TV shows, first by herself and then with Jacques Pépin. And Pépin with his groundbreaking books La Technique and La Methode. We stand on the shoulders of those who came before us. With wildfires having devastated the Napa Valley in recent years, do you have hope for how wine country will go forward?

With the drier weather that comes from global warming we need to manage our forests better. There are cities within forests in Europe with no fires because they manage theirs better. Our governor recently said he is working on a plan to help prevent forest fires. I hope he can. The pandemic has ravaged the restaurant profession. How are you faring?

Before March 18th we had 1,200 employees and we had to furlough them all. We closed the TAK Room in New York and two bakeries. We’ve reopened our other restaurants but with half the staff and are trying to bring recognition to small restaurants facing challenges. Until a vaccine or a cure for the virus we need to do everything we can for staff and guest safety and comfort. We’re optimistic and grateful for our guests. They’re the engine that drives this, and we’re grateful for their willingness to support us and the people we support.

SUNSET (ISSN 0039-5404) publishes 6 issues per year in regional and special editions by Sunset Publishing Corporation, P.O. Box 15688 Beverly Hills, CA 90209. Periodicals postage paid at Oakland, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.) Nonpostal and military facilities: Send address corrections to Sunset Magazine, P.O. Box 3228, Harlan, IA 51593-0408. Vol. 243, No. 3. Printed in U.S.A. Copyright © 2020 Sunset Publishing Corporation. All rights reserved. Member Alliance for Audited Media. Sunset, The Magazine of Western Living, The Pacific Monthly, Sunset’s Kitchen Cabinet, The Changing Western Home, and Chefs of the West are registered trademarks of Sunset Publishing Corporation. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited s ubmissions. Manuscripts, photographs, and other material submitted to P.O. Box 15688 Beverly Hills, CA 90209 can be acknowledged or returned only if accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. For 24/7 service, visit sunset.com/customerservice. You can also call 1-800-777-0117 or write to Sunset Magazine, P.O. Box 3228, Harlan, IA 51593-0408. U.S. subscriptions: $28 for one year. 96

HEARTH AND HOME 2020

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WHEN IT RAINS, OUR BOURBON POURS. GOURMET-GRADE GRAINS. HILL COUNTRY RAINWATER. CUSTOM-BUILT BARRELS. SCORCHING TEXAS HEAT. Some hide from the rain. We welcome it with open arms. Because when Mother Nature decides it’s time, we do our best to harvest every drop of rain possible using our distillery barn rooftops. The water is filtered by ultra-violet rays and immediately put to work, proofing our award-winning, amber-crimson Texas Straight Bourbon Whiskey.

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Hearth and Home 2020

Articles inside

THE LAST WILD THINGS

COZY COTTAGES & REMOTE RETREATS

IN THE DESERT SPIRIT

WINTER CHECKLIST

A SONOMA COUNTY CHRISTMAS

MERRY MIXOLOGY

HOLIDAY MEALS FROM CHEFS

ROMAN HOLIDAY

COOKIES, CAKES, AND CANDIES

BEST OF THE WEST

EDITOR’S LETTER