Sunset Wellness 2021

WELLNESS IN THE WEST

2021

PANTRY AWARDS

93

inspiring ways to feel better now

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CONTENTS THE WELLNESS ISSUE

Editor’s Letter

2

We are the West.

Let’s take care of it, ourselves, and one another.

Best of the West

5

A 3D-printed cottage, a DIY backyard spa, and more.

Home & Garden

11

Mid-Century Makeover An iconic modern

house in Indian Wells gets a second life.

22

Garden Checklist A region-by-region

guide for what to do in your garden now.

26

Indoor Gardening The best products for growing produce inside, no matter the weather.

30

Home on the Ranch How an adventurous

family built a working ranch in the wilds of northern California.

44

Smart Home Awards The best tech gear for your home.

Food & Drink

49

Hawaii 411

THOMAS J. STORY

The Heffernan family look out at the working ranch they risked it all to build and run.

Photograph by TH O MAS J. STO RY

54

Nourish and Flourish Ayurvedic expert

Chef Sheldon

Radhi Devlukia-Shetty

inspired seasonal

that make a seasonal

the definition of

endeavor.

Simeon dishes up

shares vegan recipes

recipes that deepen

cleanse a delicious

island cuisine.

ON THE COVER

58

Zero-Proof Cocktails Inventive alcohol-free cocktails from the

best bartenders in the West.

72

Travel & Escapes

83

The Western road trip is being revolution-

sauces, snacks,

condiments, meats, and more.

MaryMarjorie Hef fernan picks wildf lowers at Five Marys Farms.

ized. We test-drove

the best new electric cars to get you

Pantry Awards We select the best

Electric Vehicle Guide

rolling right.

88

Hotel Happenings Newly opened and

renovated hotels to dream of visiting soon.

Voices

of the

West

96 Devon Combs

An equine therapist

on the healing power of horses.

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

1

EDITOR’S NOTE

Finding Beauty I write this in my backyard in Los Angeles after a hard rain, my eucalyptus tree’s damp leaves perfuming the air, nearby nasturtiums overflowing from a galvanized tub that used to hold ice and Champagne bottles back when we did things like throw parties. Now it’s the hummingbirds living it up while the occasional caterpillar crashes the festivities—that is, until I play backyard bouncer and pluck them before they decimate the potential pesto or salad garnish in waiting. We’re in that bridge season where winter’s not quite behind us but spring hasn’t arrived in full force. It’s a waiting game, but it pays dividends to relish the now. Even though I moved to the West 20 years ago, I still marvel at the fact that we can grow edible flowers year-round, that our purple basil may have gone to seed but is still aromatic. We have abundant mint I pinch to check that it’s still producing its fragrant oil—but also to remind myself that this isn’t all a dream.

The longer you live here, the more you notice these micro-seasonal moments. Before Sunset photo editor Christine Bobbish sets out on one of her long weekend bike rides, she’ll sometimes send out a group text. “I’m going out to find the beauty,” she’ll say, then text the staff snapshots of oversize agaves in front of bungalows, perfectly restored Chevy Impalas, and whatever adorable mutt she saw on the Venice boardwalk, the sun setting behind it, all gradations of yellow, orange, and pink, like a vintage surf-movie poster.

I’ve been thinking about custodianship a lot these days, particularly as we worked on this issue of Sunset, my first as Editor-in-Chief. As a Sunset reader and supporter, you, too, are a custodian of the West—and so are the people in this issue devoted to wellness and innovation. People like Sheldon Simeon, the Maui-based chef who cooks personal and inventive dishes that deliciously expand the definition of Hawaiian food; Radhi Devlukia-Shetty, who educates people on the ancient Indian practice of Ayurveda, albeit on YouTube and Instagram; the Heffernan family, who up and left the Bay Area and risked it all to start Five Marys, now a thriving cattle ranch in the wilds of Northern California; and Karlyn Neel, who bought a mid-century modern masterpiece and turned it into a vision of sustainable desert style. One and all, they cherish, celebrate, and evolve what the West can be.

And like the seasons, that changes every day.

My persimmon tree isn’t yet budding, but I know it will soon, and that it will provide shade in the summer, and eventually fruit in the fall. But we’re not quite there yet. For now the sun is lingering in the sky a little longer each day, and that’s beautiful in and of itself.

CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER

Michael A. Reinstein PUBLISHER

David Steinhafel

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Hugh Garvey CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Wilson PHOTO EDITOR

Christine Bobbish STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Thomas J. Story

SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL INITIATIVES

Matt Gross

DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Jasmin Perez

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Magdalena O’Neal DIGITAL PRODUCER

Nicole Clausing WRITER

J.D. Simkins

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Jamie Elliott Sales

SVP, MEDIA SOLUTIONS

Mort Greenberg VP, PARTNERSHIPS

Kathleen Craven HEAD OF TRAVEL

Pamela Coffey HEAD OF OUTDOOR

Kristi Rummel

VP, REVENUE OPERATIONS

Kelly Facer

DIRECTOR OF AD OPERATIONS

Kathleen Pratt

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Isabel Lanaux Marketing

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Stephen Kamifuji

HEAD OF CUSTOM EVENTS

—Hugh Garvey,

Tracy Seng

E D ITO R-I N - CH I E F

Sunset Publishing Corporation BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Tom Griffiths, Graydon Sheinberg

SunsetMagazine

@sunsetmag

@Sunset

pinterest.com/SunsetMag

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For assistance with your Sunset subscription, call 1-800-777-0117.

2

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

VP, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT & CIRCULATION

Shawn Byers

THMOAS J. STORY

JOIN THE SUNSET COMMUNITY

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CABIN: MATTHEW MILLMAN; TAGINE: RAEL SAN FRATELLO

Cottage Envy

When we first saw Oakland based design firm Emerging Objects’ 3D printed

concept cabin we had a serious case of cottagecore envy. Designed to help al-

leviate the Bay Area’s housing shortage in a sustainable and elegant fashion, the structure features a living wall of succulents and undulating tiles printed from

waterproof clay. Fortunately for us they’ve just launched Loopy Ceramics, a new

line of 3D printed mugs, vases, and other cool objects so we can easily bring their next wave hygge home. 3D PRINTED TAGINE; LOOPYCERAMICS.COM

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

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Siesta Wares If the pandemic taught us anything, it was the restorative power of the midday nap. These products from the West (and beyond) will help you sleep in style.

CBD FOR ZZZS San Francisco–based Prismatic’s day and night CBD tinctures are loaded

with natural ingredients like valerian, California poppy, and adaptogens

that can help ease you in and out of your slumber. DAY AND NIGHT SET: $135; PRISMATICPLANTS.COM

SUCCULENT SQUAD Oakland-based Green

Philosophy’s plush pillows come in the shape of Monstera deliciosa,

Antherium clarinervium, and other trending houseplants.

SUCCULENT PLUSH BUNDLE:

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Block out the day’s rays with this soft silk machine-washable wraparound sleep mask that also helps reduce

ambient noise. SILK MASK: $48; LUNYA.CO

HEAVY SLEEP This well-priced, hand-poured

coconut and soy wax candle from

Otherland releases soothing notes of

saffron, champagne, and leather over its 55-hour burn time. CHANDELIER CANDLE: $36; OTHERLAND.COM

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

Most weighted blankets are lumpy and charmless, but the cable-knit

versions from Bearaby are not only

made from organic cotton but look good enough to leave out all day

long. COTTON NAPPER: $249; BEARABY.COM

COURTESY OF COMPANIES

ETERNAL FLAME

DIY Backyard Spa

POPPY AND SOMEDAY

Herbalist and wellness expert Kari Jansen shares low-cost and no-cost tips for how to create a serene sanctuary at home

A backyard spa may sound like a luxury, but it doesn’t need to be elaborate or expensive. Herbalist and ayurvedic practitioner Kari Jansen of the self-care brand Poppy and Someday has created an enviable outdoor oasis at her Laurel Canyon home she calls the fairy garden. Here, until the pandemic, she offered clients sound baths, Reiki, and other treatments incorporating oils, tinctures, and scrubs from her organic herbal apothecary. With its dappled canyon light, vintage clawfoot bathtub, wind chimes, and herb garden, her space is the stuff of serene Instagram dreams—and something not far out of reach for the rest of us. Here Jansen shares five tips on how to create and make the most of a restorative retreat in your own backyard.

INFUSE AN OIL Jansen’s oils use ingredients like sandalwood and frankincense and Hawaiian kukui nut oil, but you can use what you have on hand. “Pick a resiney herb like rosemary and put it in olive or sunflower oil and put it in the sun for a month for a solar infusion,” she says.

DRAW A BATH “You can get a vintage bathtub for $200 on Craigslist,” says Jansen. Place it in a shady spot and fill it with warm water. Jansen’s tub is plumbed but you can use a mix of hose water and water you’ve heated on the stove. Only use natural ingredients while bathing and you’ll be able to drain the tub and water your garden.

GET NATURAL Surround your tub with plants and crystals, and put up a birdfeeder within sight to reconnect with the rhythms of nature. “You’re reconnecting with the plant and natural world,” Jansen says.

“Our bodies react to the seasons, and observing them reminds us that as the seasons change so do we.”

GIVE YOURSELF A MASSAGE “Apply your warmed oil before you get into the tub.

Start with your lower extremities and move toward your heart to reconnect with your body.”

RITUALIZE IT The most important thing is there are no rules beyond making it a regular thing. “Pampering isn’t a specialty thing,” Jansen says.

“Nourishing our own bodies reminds us we should nourish the Earth and other people.”

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

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Wine shops are thriving throughout the West.

These Southland stores are celebrating diversity while serving up wine in novel ways.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

Capitol Records The Comedy Building Store SANTA MONICA BLVD.

Fellow Traveller West Hollywood West

MELROSE AVE. La Brea

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Alta Adams

Gingergrass Silverlake

SUN

WESTERN AVE.

8

Griffith Observatory

Hollwood Hills Hollywood Bowl

LA CIENEGA BLVD

Clockwise from bottom left: Vinovore’s Vinovan; Gingergrass’s pop-up drinks patio; Rick Arline at Fellow Traveler; Ruben Morancy serves guests at Alta.

While nothing can match the bliss of lazily tasting wines in a cozy wine shop on a Sunday afternoon, the pandemic put a stop to such vinous delights and forced shop owners throughout the West to pivot to new models. Fortunately, many wine shops are thriving, with customers, unable to drink in restaurants and bars, now spending their wine budget at shops that offer online ordering and socially distanced pickups. For residents of Los Angeles, the upside is a boom in diverse openings and offerings in the wine world.

In the West Adams neighborhood Ruben Morancy, wine director at modern soul food restaurant Alta Adams, runs Alta Wine Shop, whose tightly curated selection of bottles focuses on wines from BIPOC and female-run wineries around the world—snag a bottle of Russian River Pinot Noir from Vision Cellars run by Mac McDonald, one of the few African American winemakers in California. In West Hollywood, former Auburn sommelier Rick Arline is

Vinovore

SET

BLVD .

101 110

GINGERGRASS: @AISHASINGLETONPHOTOGRAPHY; FELLOW TRAVELER: KATRINA FREDERICK; ALTA ADAMS: THOMAS J. STORY; VAN: VINOVORE

Viva Vino

running Fellow Traveler wine bar, which sells natural and skin-contact wines from California and beyond along with to-go charcuterie, pates, burgers, and the unsung but perfect wine-pairing food item: curly fries. Silver Lake Vietnamese restaurant Gingergrass opened a pop-up shop selling wine and beer exclusively from Black-owned companies, including pioneering Inglewood brewery Crowns & Hops.

Also in Silver Lake, Vinovore focuses on women-owned wineries, added a roving Vino Van to their bricks-and-mortar operation, and curates clever self-care gift boxes. Think “meditate and levitate,” a box loaded with a bottle of wine, CBD hemp smokes, and a meditation manual. If you don’t live in LA you can still attend one of their “winesplaining” virtual tastings.

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Our Covers. Your Walls.

We recently uncovered a trove of posters litho-printed decades ago, featuring some of Sunset’s greatest classic covers—and now we’re offering them to you. Show off your pride in the West, and get them while they last at shop.sunset.com.

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shop.sunset.com

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HOME

&

GARDEN Desert Revival

A lost classic of mid-century modernism in Indian Wells finds more sustainable life under the careful custodianship of a new owner.

HAIR BY BRANDON LIBERATI; MAKEUP BY KIRSTEN SAGE COLEMAN

Story by H U G H GARVE Y • Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

11

ith houses as in life, sometimes we need to go back to go forward. When Karlyn Neel was vacationing in Palm Springs one February weekend, a real estate email showed up in her inbox advertising a perfectly restored mid-century modern house in Indian Wells: all low-slung glazing, with a reflecting pond in the entry and views of the Santa Rosa mountains—it was the sort of blast from the past that makes you dream of your future.

Designed by legendary architect William Cody, the Indian Wells house had it all: design pedigree, an old Hollywood past (Beverly Garland, the mother in My Three Sons, had lived there), and a backyard pool with view of the mountains in which Neel planned to spend nearly every moment of leisure. Neel, who was living and working in the Bay, had been planning on eventually buying a second home in nature. But this dream some 10 years down the line became reality when she visited the house, promptly fell for it, made an offer, and bought the house.

The indoor-outdoor vibes and striking design appealed equally to Neel, who works as a user experience designer at Tesla. Neel grew up in a family that treasured the outdoors

When Karlyn Neel (pictured above with her cat, Eames) bought the restored William Cody house, she saw herself as a custodian as much as a homeowner. She installed a commemorative plaque on a stone out front as a way of sharing its history with passersby.

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“ Preserving the historic significance of the house and keeping it pristine is important to me as stewardess of the property.”

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

Neel was gifted many of the furnishings from the previous owner, Southern California designer Jessy Moss. The green Papa Bear Chair and Eames credenza are from Los Angeles furniture store Modernica.

Neel bought the art in the dinette from Palm Springs gallery Flow Modern, the bar cart from West Elm, the lip painting in the den from Sunbeam Vintage, and the vase from Sara Paloma on Etsy.

Neel is a DJ in her spare time and goes by the name LadyHouse. When a friend saw the three palm trees in front of the house, she dubbed it Lady Palms. Neel loved it so much she had a sign made in a custom font she designed and put it up by the pool.

Updates to the house include a Falmec range hood and a Tesla Powerwall.

16

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

as much as good architecture: Her grandfather was a builder whose house on a cliff on the Pacific left an indelible mark on Neel as a child.

Much of her childhood in Mount Shasta was spent outside in nature.

Her parents moved the family up from the Bay to Etna, California, in the Marble Mountain Wilderness. She grew up hiking, fishing, camping, and cross-country skiing. “My parents bought an old Victorian on an acresized lot,” say Neel. “We had a giant vegetable garden, and my mom canned fruits and vegetables. I literally grew up with the earth in my hands.” While the desert’s natural offerings are radically different, from the living room in Indian Wells the house is sited just so that you can see Mount Eisenhower rising in the distance while you sit by the fire. “It couldn’t be a better view.”

Only a few years ago, the house was in disrepair and listed on the market as a tear-down, but Southern California interior designer Jessy Moss worked with William Cody’s daughter to restore it to its former glory while updating the systems. Neel then installed solar panels and a Tesla Powerwall, adding even more efficiency to

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

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“When the temperature hits

120 degrees, I basically live in the pool.”

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the house, a no-brainer addition after she got her first, and soon to be last, monthly $700 air-conditioning bill. The battery allows her to store the desert sun’s power by day and eventually sell it back to the city. Given the age and unreliability of California’s electric grid, the battery pack also gives her independence and resilience in the event of power outages, a reality in wildfire-plagued California, where blackouts roll through the region more frequently than ever before.

But beyond that and adding some architecturally appropriate desert landscaping and a firepit by the pool, Neel left well enough alone. “Preserving the historic significance of the house and keeping it pristine is very important to me as stewardess of this house.”

From nearly every spot in the house, the windows and architecture create sightlines that connect your eye with nature: The fireplace is situated to provide privacy and warmth, while simultaneously revealing plantings across the way and the mountains beyond. Dramatic uplighting indoors and out was a signature move of architect William Cody.

While Neel had been planning on flying down to Indian Wells on occasional getaways from the bay area, the pandemic forced her hand. She could either stay up north in Oakland and weather the storm, or hunker down in the desert. Knowing firsthand the benefits of the wide-open spaces that made her happy in her childhood, the restorative power of the sun and the pool, Neel chose the latter.

“I’m very much aware of the privilege of being able to shelter in place in the best time of the year. I think all that vitamin D and sun helped with my mental wellness compared to if I’d stayed up north,” says Neel.

“When it hits 120 degrees, I basically live in the pool.” Mindful of her good fortune, Neel is committed to sharing the joys of her

house with the public and preserving it for generations, applying for the Mills Act to protect it from any modifications, and opening it up to tours during Palm Springs’ celebrated Modernism Week in the future. In the meantime she’s put up a plaque to share the history of the house. While some people put them on the front entryway, Neel, ever the user experience designer, had a better idea. Why not put the plaque near the street so all interested passersby could easily read and learn about the architectural gem. “What I do for a living is create human-centered design experiences, so I made sure I picked the perfect rock that would perfectly mirror the mountain beyond and put it out front so people could enjoy it,” Neel says.

“And now one of my favorite things to do is drink my coffee and watch walkers and runners stop and read the rock.”

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

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© CHRIS BENZAKEIN

SPRING GARDEN YOUR

Warm weather is right around the corner.

Here's what to do in your garden now.

Contributors: JO HAN NA S I LVE R , MARCIA TATRO E , JI M M CCAU S L AN D, SCOT T CALH O U N , K ATH LE E N N . B RE NZ E L Compiled by N I CO LE CL AU S I N G

CHECKLIST M A I N TA I N Turn on drip irrigation systems and

repair any leaks. Flush sediment from filters and check screens for algae;

All Regions PREP Test the viability of vegetable seeds

clean with a small brush if necessary.

To create reusable plant markers,

dip the tops of wooden stakes in

chalkboard paint (available in craft

left over from last year by putting a few

stores). Use them now to mark the

over the seeds and place in a reseal-

and in the spring to identify herbs

on a damp paper towel. Fold the towel

spots where you’ve sown seeds,

able plastic bag, marking the bag with

in your garden.

room temperature and check in a week

PROTECT

not, it’s time to order replacement seed.

ed frosts—plants are less susceptible

the name of the vegetable. Store at

to see if the seeds have germinated. If

If you’re redesigning your garden, in-

dicate where new trees, shrubs, or gar-

Water the garden before forecast-

to damage when the soil is moist.

Check plants for early signs of in-

den beds will go by marking their loca-

festation by insects such as aphids

chalk, which comes in many colors. It’s

tiny, often green or black insects) and

tions on the ground with aerosol garden like spray paint, but temporary, and available at any garden center.

Succulents contain lots of water in

their leaves, making them useful for

fire­scaping (landscaping to prevent or minimize fire damage).

Sharpen shovels to keep them

working effectively. Using a large file, with the shovel facing up, rub along

the shovel’s bottom edge at a 45° angle, filing from the left side to the tip;

repeat on the right side. With a clean

cloth, apply a small amount of mineral oil to the newly sharpened edge to prevent rust; wipe off before using.

When buying bare-root fruits,

vegetables, and ornamentals, keep

roots moist from the time you leave the nursery until you plant them in your garden.

(look for distorted new growth and

H A RV E S T

spittlebugs (look for white foam on

so sample fruit to gauge sweetness

the stems). Blast them off with a hose.

Citrus ripens only while on the tree,

before harvesting a mass quantity.

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

23

Northern California PLANT Start tomato seeds indoors for planting outside in late March or early April.

Continue to sow seeds of cool-sea-

son vegetables such as broccoli, chard, and lettuce.

outdoors (June in cold country).

Sow beets, carrots, onions, peas,

vegetable gardens.

their soil warms up quickly.

Spring-flowering trees (cherries,

go into the ground now. Don’t forget

Add spring-flowering shrubs such as

sythia, winter hazel, witch hazel) can pussy willows and ornamental hazelnuts, whose catkins put on a show early in the season.

daphne, quince, rhododendron, and

M A I N TA I N

in spring.

spots of a garden. That’s where to

viburnum to your garden now for color

M A I N TA I N Feed annuals, perennials, and trees

with an all-purpose fertilizer.

Bent, blue, fescue, rye, and other

grasses begin their spring growth

spurts now. Feed with a high-nitrogen lawn fertilizer according to label directions.

PROTECT Keep apples worm-free by setting

codling moth traps high in trees before flower petals fall.

H A RV E S T Pick the outer leaves of collards, kale,

Rains reveal the low, flood-prone

plant moisture lovers, such as gunnera, Japanese iris, and sedge.

Snip dead tops off last year’s pe-

rennials and grasses to make room for new spring growth.

Build wooden raised beds now to

give veggies an early start. Ideal di-

mensions are 4 by 8 feet, with 10-to12-inch-high sides.

Rinse off houseplants in a shower

and prune faded foliage. When you see the season’s first new growth,

fertilize lightly with a plant food formulated for indoor plants.

mizuna, and mustard to add to winter

PROTECT

the center of each plant to eat raw or

troubled with insects and mites,

soups. Snip young, tender leaves from braise lightly.

Pick asparagus from year-old plants

when spears reach 5 to 8 inches long.

If you have woody plants that are

spray them with horticultural oil to smother overwintering pests.

Handpick slugs from your plants

To keep plants healthy and productive,

or set out bait for them, since they

thinner spears appear. Then mulch with

you even realize the plants have

harvest for only 4 to 6 weeks, or until

compost and allow plants to grow. After the third year, extend the harvest period to 8 to 10 weeks.

Northwest PLANT Start seeds of warm-season vegeta-

bles like cucumbers, eggplant, melons, peppers, squash, and tomatoes indoors this month so they’ll be well

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

Order seeds, such as bean, corn,

early sowing: They drain well, and

garden. Raised beds are optimal for

tarragon in a sunny location outdoors. close to the kitchen for easy snipping.

PREP eggplant, pepper, pumpkin, tomato,

magnolias, plums) and shrubs (For-

Consider putting herbs in containers

Southern California

radishes, and spinach directly in the

After the last frost, plant herbs such

as basil, chives, cilantro, parsley, and

24

established in time for May planting

and zucchini, for spring and summer

PLANT Sow beets, carrots, collard greens,

lettuces, peas, potatoes, radishes, and turnips.

Attract beneficial insects by planting

the nectar- and pollen-bearing plants

they love, such as aster, coreopsis, cosmos, feverfew, scabiosa, and yarrow.

Plant seeds of summer flowers such

as gaillardia, marigold, Mexican hat,

and zinnia in pots on sunny windowsills.

M A I N TA I N Set traps now before gophers

become a problem: They are more active when the soil loosens after winter rains.

Pinch off strawberry blooms through

May to ensure large, sweet berries instead of small, tart ones.

When early apples, pears, and stone

fruit are ½-inch in diameter, thin fruit to 4 to 6 inches apart.

Give mature avocado trees their

first of two feedings for the year. Each

tree needs 2 pounds of actual nitrogen

per year, so check the fertilizer label for percentages of NPK (nitrogen,

phosphorus, and potassium). Feed

the entire root zone (without disturbing the tree’s shallow feeder roots) and water.

can mow down seedlings before

PROTECT

germinated. We like to use Sluggo, a

of eggplant, pepper, potato, tomatillo,

biodegradable slug and snail bait.

Rinse houseplants in a lukewarm

shower to remove dust, which har-

To foil tomato psyllids, enclose plants

and tomato inside square tomato cages covered with floating row covers.

Prevent mildew by planting disease-

bors pests. Sponge off dust on in-

resistant varieties of cucumber, melon,

making sure to dust the undersides

from dining on freshly planted bean

door plants that are too big to move, of the leaves. If you like glossy

leaves, spray with a leaf-shine

product. Make dusting your plants part of your cleaning routine.

and squash from seed. To keep birds

and corn seeds, cover them with upside-down berry baskets or bird net-

ting. Once the seedlings are 4 inches tall, birds lose interest.

Southwest PLANT For pops of color, plant flowers such

as alyssum, calendula, canna, gladiolus, pansy, and petunia.

H A RV E S T Pick grapefruit, kumquats, oranges,

and tangelos. Once they’re plump and

sunny window or under grow lights to

sweet, the rest of the tree should be

ground in late April or early May.

fully colored, taste one fruit—if it’s ripe for picking.

Sow seeds of chives, cilantro, dill, and

Mountain

parsley. Plant marjoram, oregano, rosemary, and sage.

Create a moon garden (one with

PLANT Plant strawberries in a sunny spot,

white blooms that catch a glow at dusk

keeping plants well watered and cov-

blooming hesper­aloe (H. nocturna),

weeks.

or in moonlight). Consider night­-

white­tufted evening primrose (Oeno-

thera caespitosa), and desert snow­-in­summer (Plumbago scandens).

In the low desert, plant broccoli, cau-

liflower, English peas, onions, and other

cold-tolerant vegetables. At higher elevations, sow wildflower seeds now for

blooms later in the season. Try blue flax

ered with a frost blanket for the first few

have seedlings ready to go in the

M A I N TA I N Prep vegetable beds by tilling in 3 to

4 inches of compost, leaving soil clods large to help trap moisture until planting time.

To prevent soil compaction, clean up

beds while the ground is still frozen.

Keep pine trees dense and compact

As soon as soil thaws, plant brilliant

orange- or red-blossomed crocosmia,

by cutting or snapping in half new

shoots while they are still supple and

lavender-flowered gayfeather (Liatris

before they produce needles.

All thrive in irrigated beds where they

PROTECT

spicata), and fragrant lily-of-the-valley. can naturalize and spread.

Fill sunny windowsills with potted

(Linum lewisii), Rocky Mountain penste-

English primroses in shades of blue,

ambiguus).

yellow. When they stop flowering, plant

M A I N TA I N

shade. They’ll bloom again in the fall.

mon, and sand penstemon (P.

Start seeds of broccoli, cabbage,

cauliflower, and kohlrabi indoors in a

brown, orange, peach, red, white, and them in the garden in sun or part

Sparrows and house finches tear up

crocus blossoms. Place foil pinwheels every few feet among the flowers to discourage the birds.

Shovel snow onto garden beds to

add insulation, which helps prevent temperature swings in the soil.

Cut back ornamental grasses such

as blue grama, deer grass, regal mist

muhly, and sideoats grama to about 1 foot tall. New growth will rapidly obscure the remaining brushlike tuft.

Around Valentine’s Day, fertilize citrus

using a plant food formulated for citrus and avocado.

In low-desert locations, separate

dense clusters of succulents such as

agave, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, and yucca. Let the pups’ roots scab over in

the shade for a few days, then replant.

PROTECT As insects become active, treat aga-

BOOK WE LOVE

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source for seeds, education, and inspiration for fans of

cutting gardens. Their latest book, Discovering Dahlias:

A Guide to Growing and Arranging Magnificent Blooms, is being released on March 9.

Alongside stunning photography of the farm and elaborate and elegant floral arrangements,

founder Erin Benzakein shares tips on growing these striking,

vivid flowers in gardens of any

size. Pre-order now and receive free bonus videos and garden planning cards.

$24.95, FLORETFLOWERS.COM

ves with a systemic insecticide containing imidacloprid to deter agave

snout­nose weevils, which can kill the plants.

Fight insect infestations by introduc-

ing their natural predators. Try ladybird © CHRIS BENZAKEIN

beetles or green lacewings for aphids;

for desert species such as yuccas that

are prone to spider mite, get the spider mite destroyer (Stethorus punctillum).

Follow label directions before releasing them in the evening hours.

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

25

Indoor BOUNTY

THE

A new wave of growing technology means year-round veggie production is a reality.

Which solution is right for you?

RISE GARDENS

Story by MAT T B EAN

Most gardeners cede the colder seasons to the whims of winter.

Coaxing hearty crops out of the cold earth can prove complicated, and lowyield. Fortunately, there are a more companies than ever making products that can keep you in homegrown fresh vegetables yearround. This year I decided to try my hand at small-scale gardening on my balcony with a Farmstand system from Lettuce Grow, which launched in late 2019 and counts Zooey Deschanel among its founders. The company offers a compelling promise: They ship you the starters, and within weeks you’ll have a veritable bounty of herbs and veggies to enjoy. I’ll have to admit I was skeptical when the undulating plastic base and skull-like extensions showed up. Each level includes six circular holes, into which you’ll place your seedlings. But naked of plants, and stacked atop the rounded pyramidal base, the construction resembles a pile of Jack Skellington heads, or some kind of ancient graveyard marker.

There’s a reason they look this way, however.

Each aperture is spaced equally to provide access to available light. They bell out in the middle to allow the roots room to spread—and the water to briefly pool around them. Inside the setup, a water pump sits attached to a long PVC pipe.

That pump circulates liquid (along with nutrients) to the top of the structure, where it then washes down over the roots, level by level. A timer attached to the outlet facilitates this cycling.

This doesn’t just make it easier to grow vegetables. By recycling water, the company claims you’re using 95 percent less of it overall, compared with ground crops. Across the near500,000 fruits and veggies they’ve grown, they estimate they have saved nearly 10 million gallons of water.

The seedlings arrive in tiny greenhouse-like containers, and you’re asked to get them going right away. All of my seedlings survived and are thriving but for some romaine that wilted while I awaited an additional level to fit them all. One of the smarter aspects of the system is that the seedling containers include a legend next to each plant indicating whether it should be positioned high up on the tower, in full light, in shade, and so on. You’ll have to do a bit of mixing and matching as there isn’t a full map provided, but that’s part of the fun.

So, I know what you’re asking: But how does it grow? And let me tell you: you’ll turn your head

and next thing an obscene amount of greenery will be sprouting from this sleek, white space pod. My arugula was larger than any I’ve ever seen. My cabbage blocked out the rays of the sun. The thyme became sentient and was contemplating a run for president. And the kale kept me in green juice for weeks.

Overall, I’m thrilled with the Farmstand system. Having fresh greens without incurring a grocery store trip means I’m eating more healthfully. My cooking has benefitted from having a thoughtful visual browsing system to plan my meals. And the pop of green is a welcome sight: Instead of a banana plant getting buffeted about by the wind, I’ve got functional beauty to enjoy.

Yes, the Farmstand is expensive. It starts at $348, and seedlings are $2 each. But my quick math tells me it’s worth it. Organic kale can cost as much as $4 per bunch.

Bok choy the same. If I stick with it, it’ll have paid for itself in about a year. Read on for an overview of other indoor gardening systems to suit any household or need.

PRO TIPS FOR INDOOR GARDENING

CHOOSE AND PLACE YOUR PLANTS WISELY.

FERTILIZER MATTERS.

AVOID SITES FOR SORE EYES—AND EARS.

Sprawling leaves (we’re looking at you, cabbage!) can block light from other plants. Vertical growers, such as tomatoes and Swiss chard, can reach your light source quickly.

Gourds are gobblers, and not in the Thanksgiving sense. They produce sprawling vines and leaf systems that require lots of sun and water. At peak season, they’ll fill up a patio and drain your reservoir.

Hydroponic systems lack the natural minerals found in dirt and compost. Use provided fertilizers or save money by matching your crop and season to a fertilizer chart including nitrogen, phosphorous, and sulfur. Keeping a log will help you from forgetting a cycle.

Hydroponic solutions run periodic irrigation schedules, which can provide either a calming, meditative spa soundtrack or a disruptive faucet-is-leaking feeling. LED illumination runs on a similar schedule.

Place your indoor units with that in mind. Water leakage shouldn’t be a huge issue, but on wood floors take care to place floor units on a mat of some kind.

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

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28

FOR THE COLLEGE STUDENT

YOUR GARDEN: Lettuce Grow Farmstand This undulating space-capsule-style unit kept us stuffed with veggies all summer. Now, thanks to LED add-ons, we’ll keep the greens coming all winter long.

Each tier offers six planting positions, and a pump in the base sends water and nutrients up to the top, where it cascades down to happy and growing roots. Lettuce Grow offers some of the best pre-sprouted seedlings and most eclectic options, including our absolute favorite Koji Tatsoi. $348 and up, lettucegrow.com

YOUR GARDEN: Back to the Roots Systems Whether you’re starting your own seeds in a Ball jar with a mixture of potting soil or purchasing an aftermarket solution, the small-scale systems from Oakland-based Back to the Roots require ample light and regular watering. But they’re cheap—and cheerful. $10 and up, backtotheroots.com

FOR THE CITY DWELLER

FOR THE DESIGN SNOB

YOUR GARDEN: Aerogarden Sprout This pint-size hydroponic system boasts 10 watts of light across 60 LED units and, thanks to an extendable arm, stretches to fit your herbs and lettuces.

We like the quiet pump, which keeps audio intrusion to a minimum. Alerts help you keep the tank full and the crop happy. $60 and up, aerogarden.com

YOUR GARDEN: Rise Gardens There aren’t many indoor gardens that would look at home in a Design Within Reach catalog, but this setup stands out by blending in to a midcentury living room. It tucks away the business end of its irrigation in the credenza-style cabinet below, and gives you three optional tiers on top, stretching up to a height of 65 inches or so. Go with one level and use the top shelf as a display area for knickknacks. $549 and up, risegardens.com

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

LETTUCE GROW: ONA CREATIVE; AEROGARDEN: © 2019 JULIA VANDENOEVER; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF COMPANIES

FOR THE FAMILY

WT: XXX PF: XX ZO: XX

page

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Great Gifts for Green Thumbs.

Sunset Garden Apron ($125).

Gardeners want three things from their tools: functionality, sturdiness, and a bit of beauty. That’s why we’re proud to offer our first-ever Garden Apron—made in California from 100% hemp, with tough, oversized pockets—plus hand-forged trowels and more, all at shop.sunset.com.

shop.sunset.com

Sunset Page Template.indd 1 SUNSET_HOUSE_ADS_GARDEN_APRON.indd 78

1/6/21 2:26 11/2/20 9:23 PM PM

HOME

Story by CHANTAL L AM E RS and E L AI N E JO H N SO N Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

AN ADVENTUROUS COUPLE BUILDS THE ULTIMATE WORKING FAMILY RANCH IN THE WILDS OF RURAL NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.

on the

R ANCH

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31

WHEN BRIAN AND MARY HEFFERNAN MET 12 YEARS AGO, SHE COULDN’T GRASP WHY HE ALWAYS SUGGESTED THEY MEET UP FOR DATES. “I thought he was so rude for never offering to pick me up,” laughs Mary, who owned a Bay Area tutoring company at the time. Over the course of a few long dinners, Mary revealed her love of horseback riding, of tumbledown country homes, of antique hunts, and, well, of trucks. That’s when Brian, a real estate attorney with deep agricultural roots, uncloaked his old Ford pickup. It was a well-loved ride with dog-fur-coated seats and muddy paw prints. “We were the only two people who drove trucks in Menlo Park,” says Mary. “We knew it was meant to be.”

Nine years later, when the couple announced they were leaving the suburbs for an 1,800-acre ranch six hours north, it came as a surprise to friends and family, but not to Mary and Brian. Several years and a few kids into their marriage, the couple began opening family-friendly restaurants, with amenities like playrooms where kids could gather while parents finished their meals. The couple had always relied on local farms, but when they were unable to source the quality pasture-raised, dry-aged beef they were adamant on serving, they snapped up a dilapidated ranch in Fort Jones, in Siskiyou County. They hired a hand to help raise their own cattle, but after eight weeks of grueling weekend commutes with four small children in tow, they agreed it wasn’t sustainable. “We realized we can’t do both, and we knew we had to pick one,” says Mary.

“We’d reached a point where we were pretty burnt out in the The Heffernans Bay Area,” she says. While that reditched the city for ality made it easier to walk away, ranch living and as first-generation ranchers they never looked back.

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

Running the ranch is a full-time family affair for the Heffernans, but for guests attending their retreats and cooking workshops it's more like a luxe agricultural summer camp, complete with an outdoor shower and a canvas guest tent with Tuft & Needle mattresses.

The girls share a rustic chic bedroom in a converted dairy barn and work the ranch alongside their parents.

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

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Clockwise from top left: Fog hugs the ranch as the sun rises over Klamath National Forest; MaryJane, MaryFrances, MaryTeresa, and MaryMarjorie, four of the five Marys for whom the ranch is named; in addition to beef and other livestock, the Heffernans also raise rare Navajo Churrro sheep.

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

needed to turn a profit. They quickly realized a direct-to-consumer strategy would allow them to sell meat while focusing on the ranch and the girls. They named the ranch Five Marys, after Mary and their four daughters—whose first names are all Mary. Each girl goes by their middle name: Francie, Maisie, Janie, and Tessa.

Mary uses Instagram around the clock to share a behind-the-scenes perspective of ranch life, where they raise about natural, beef, pork, and lamb from birth to slaughter. “I think there really is an issue in much of the country of people not truly knowing where their food comes from or how it’s raised,” says Mary. “But people are hungry for that information. Social media gives them that window: the good, the bad, the everyday.” Some days it’s one of the girls fulfilling a wish to learn to use a chainsaw or trudging out in the snow at dawn to feed the

animals. Another day, it could be an account of Mary, Brian, and the girls struggling to help a mother cow deliver a calf.

Today 90 percent of their meat is shipped to customers around the country, with the remainder sold at their downtown farm store and restaurant, Five Marys Burgerhouse.

More than three years ago, when the small town’s historic local bar and restaurant closed, Brian and Mary couldn’t resist turning it into an authentic Five Marys experience.

Mary already had the menu covered, since she’d been creating recipe booklets since they launched. So they hustled to give the bar a quick four-week rehab, painting and repurposing furniture from the 5,000-square-foot-home they sold back in Menlo Park. On Friday nights before the pandemic, much of the town would turn up for live music. “It was a great way to be social,” says Mary. “People work so much here, there’s not a lot of time to socialize.”

Mary’s first cookbook, Ranch Raised Cookbook: Homegrown Recipes From Our Family to Yours, was released late last year and is a compendium of dishes and drinks from the restaurant and the ranch. The pandemic has kept them busier than ever: direct sales have increased four fold as more people turned to buying meat online rather than in the supermarket, Mary began teaching online entrepreneurship classes to woman ranchers, they're breaking ground on a butcher shop, while a virtual ranch skills course draws kids in from all over the world.

Otherwise they live at the base of the property, in a 1920s, 900-square-foot dairy barn turned ranch house, complete with 12-inch cement walls designed to keep the milk chilled. At the beginning, Mary envisioned updating and expanding the home into a modern farmhouse with expansive windows to take in the valley. But as they settled into their lives, priorities shifted, and one tractor turned into three. What’s more, points out Mary, she’s surrounded by those views all day. When she gets home, she’s content sitting in a leather chair by the fire with a whiskey.

While Brian’s old suits collect mothballs in the closet, the girls have not once questioned the leap. They went from drawers with “a billion bows” to never wearing matching socks, if socks at all. Before they built out the girl’s shared attic bedroom, three of the girls shared a bed while Tessa slept in a crib in the closet. “They didn’t care about a pool in the backyard when they had a pond in the backyard where they could catch frogs,” says Mary. “They never looked back or asked when we were going back.”

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Clockwise from left: With 500 head of cattle, plus sheep and hogs, the wood-fired grill gets a workout come summer; MaryTeresa about to dig into the family's signature M5 burger; when the weather's warm, alfresco dinner is often served with a side of a spectacular sunset.

Bacon Jam M A K E S 1 ½ C UP S

Sticky, sweet bacon jam is the perfect burger topping. It gets a deep umami flavor from the addition of dark beer.

1 lb. bacon, chopped 1 small onion, diced 2 garlic cloves, chopped About ½ cup dark beer such as Anchor

M5 Burgers with Bacon Jam S E R VE S 8 GEN ERO USLY / 40 MINUTES

Use dry-aged beef for a deeply flavorful patty, then add unctuous bacon jam for a truly decadent burger experience. House pickles will serve to cut through the richness.

DIJON AIOLI 1 cup mayonnaise 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 large garlic clove, minced

BURGERS 4 lbs. ground dry-aged chuck 2 tsp. kosher salt 1½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 8 slices sharp white cheddar cheese 8 brioche hamburger buns, sliced crosswise

1. For the aioli: Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and chill until used.

2. For the burgers: Shape ground beef

into 8 patties, each about 4 in. wide and ¾-in. thick. Season both sides

with salt and pepper. Cover patties

with plastic wrap and allow them to reach room temperature, about 15

minutes. Heat a gas grill on high, until it ranges from 450° to 550°.

3. To oil the grill, saturate paper towels with oil and use tongs to thoroughly

coat the grate. Grill patties with cover closed, turning once, until desired level of doneness is reached; about

8 minutes total for medium-rare. Lay a slice of cheese on each burger,

cover grill, and cook just to soften

cheese, about 30 seconds. Transfer burgers to a serving board.

4. While burgers rest, toast buns cut

side down on grill, about 30 seconds.

Transfer to board, spread buns with aioli. Build burgers starting with let-

tuce on the bottom, followed by to-

FIXIN’S Lettuce leaves, iceburg or Little Gem Sliced beefsteak tomatoes Bacon Jam Pickled Onions and sliced House Pickles

mato slices, patties, pickled onions,

and a big spoonful of bacon jam on each. Serve with house pickles on the side.

Porter

¼ cup packed brown sugar ¼ cup maple syrup 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Add bacon to a large, heavy cast-

iron skillet and cook over mediumhigh heat until browned but not

crisp, about 8 minutes. When bacon is cooked through, transfer to a

bowl with a slotted spoon. Pour off all but 3 Tbsp. of fat, discarding the rest.

2. Reduce heat to medium and cook

onion in the bacon fat, stirring often, until soft but not brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Return bacon to pan along

with any fat that has collected in the bowl, and add garlic, beer, brown sugar, maple syrup, and vinegar.

Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer gently, stirring occasionally,

until liquid has thickened and about 1

/3 cup liquid remains.

3. Remove from heat and let mixture

cool. Pulse the mixture in a food processor until it becomes a chunky

paste. Season to taste with salt and

pepper. Serve at room temperature.

Bacon jam can be stored for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.

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House Pickles MAKES 2 QTS. / 1 HO U R, P LU S 2 DAYS TO CHI LL

Pickled vegetables bring color, snap, and tangy contrast to the rich burger and bacon jam.

BRINE AND SEASONINGS 8 garlic cloves 1¾ cups distilled white vinegar 2 Tbsp. kosher salt 4 sprigs fresh dill 1 tsp. celery seeds 1 tsp. coriander seeds 1 tsp. mustard seeds 1 tsp. black or multicolored peppercorns

VEGETABLES 1¼ lbs. pickling cucumbers (such as

Kirby), cut lengthwise into eighths

2 bunches slender rainbow carrots, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

1

3

lb. green beans, trimmed

4 small hot fresh or dried red chiles such as Thai

1. Make brine: In a medium saucepan,

bring 3½ cups water to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer, add garlic, and cook until slightly softened, 3 to 5

minutes. Stir in vinegar and salt, re-

turn to a boil, and remove from heat.

2. Divide dill and dry seasonings be-

tween 2 wide-mouth quart canning jars. Remove garlic from brine and add 4 cloves to each jar.

3. Prepare vegetables: Tightly pack

jars with vegetables, trimming to fit as needed.

4. Return brine to a boil and pour over vegetables to cover completely. Let

cool, then fasten the lids and chill for at least 2 days before using. Pickles will keep up to 3 months, chilled.

Big-Batch Bourbon Sidecars S E R V E S 8 / 1 5 M I NUTE S

Bourbon takes a refreshing turn when mixed with the sweet-tart juice of Meyer lemons. ¾ cup honey 1 cup freshly squeezed Meyer lemon

juice, plus lemon wedges for serving

1 cup bourbon About ¼ cup superfine or

1. In a small saucepan, heat honey and ¾ cup water until honey dissolves; let this syrup cool.

2. In a large pitcher, combine lemon juice, bourbon, and ¼ cup honey simple syrup.

3. Pour sugar into a shallow dish.

Rub rims of glasses with lemon

wedges and dip in sugar. Fill pitcher with ice, stir to mix well, and add

more honey simple syrup as needed.

Pour into glasses.

granulated sugar

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

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No-Cook Tomato Sauce M AK E S 2 CU PS / 2 0 M I NU T ES

No need to turn on the hot stove for this aromatic sauce. Fresh tomatoes, basil, and garlic make this a hit for almost any use, from pasta to pairing with freshly fried arancini.

1½ lbs. ripe red tomatoes

1½ tbsp. good

extra-virgin

Crispy Corn Risotto Balls (Arancini) MAK ES ABO UT 3 0 / 3 HOU RS

1½ cups panko bread crumbs ¾ cup masa harina 6 oz. mozzarella, cut into 32 (½-in.) cubes

Arancini are perfect appetizers, and a great way to use leftover risotto and corn on the cob.

Lard or vegetable oil, for frying

RISOTTO

2. Melt butter in a large saucepan over

4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth 2 Tbsp. salted butter 1 white onion, finely diced ½ cup dry white wine 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp. ground coriander 2 bay leaves 1 cup Arborio rice 3 ears of corn, kernels removed 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced chives

ARANCINI 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving

3 large eggs

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1. Bring 6 cups broth to a simmer in a medium saucepan and cover.

medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until soft, 5 to 8 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring,

about 4 minutes until it evaporates.

Mix in salt, pepper, coriander, bay

leaves, and rice, stirring constantly,

until rice is slight toasted, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add corn kernels and stir.

3. Ladle in about ¾ cup hot broth and

cook, stirring often, until rice absorbs most of the liquid. Repeat steps with more broth until rice is just tender

and slighty soupy, about 30 minutes.

Add Parmigiano Reggiano and

chives and stir. Spread risotto into a

thin layer on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment. Discard bay leaves, and let cool completely.

4. Scrape risotto into a mound. Using your hands, roll 2 Tbsp. into a ball

and insert a cube of mozzarella into the middle of the ball. Reshape,

making sure cheese is com-

olive oil

pletely enclosed. Repeat until

2 garlic cloves,

been rolled into balls.

12 large fresh

all risotto and cheese have

5. To bread the arancini, you’ll

need three separate, shallow

bowls or pie pans. In the first,

combine flour with ½ tsp. each

salt and pepper. In the second, whisk eggs with 3 Tbsp. water.

In the third, combine panko

and corn flour. Roll about 5 ri-

sotto balls at a time in flour to

coat. Shake off excess flour, roll balls in egg wash, then roll in

crumb mixture until complete-

chopped

basil leaves, roughly

chopped 1 Tbsp. parsley, roughly

chopped 1 tsp. capers, chopped

Kosher salt Freshly ground

black pepper

ly coated. Set balls on a clean rimmed baking sheet.

6. Preheat oven to 200°. Fill a

5-to-6-qt. pot with 1½ in. lard or oil and heat to 350°. Using a

slotted spoon, carefully lower a couple of risotto balls at a time into oil; fry about 10 at once until well browned, about 5

minutes. Transfer arancini to a

platter lined with paper towels

and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm in oven up to 1

hour while frying the remaining arancini. Serve with No-Cook Tomato Sauce for dipping.

• Using a box

grater, coarsely grate tomatoes directly into a large

bowl, discard-

ing skins. Stir in 1 ½ Tbsp. extravirgin olive oil, garlic, basil,

parsley, and capers, plus

kosher salt and black pepper to taste.

Berry Meyer Lemonade MAKES 7 ½ CUPS / 1 0 MI N UTES

Lemonade with strawberries from the U-pick patch at the ranch next door is always fun. It’s also a refreshing way to use up overripe berries.

1 qt. strawberries,

hulled, or mixed berries like

blueberries and blackberries ¾ cup Meyer

lemon juice, plus lemon slices

Strawberry Zabaglione S E R V E S 8 / 2 0 M I NUTES

Showcase juicy, ripe berries with rich zabaglione, laced with sweet wine.

1½ qts. strawberries, hulled and quartered

½ cup plus 1½ Tbsp. sugar ¾ cup whipping cream 8 large egg yolks 1 1

FOR SERVING ¾ to 1 cup simple syrup

Mint sprigs

3

cup Vin Santo or Marsala

3

Prosecco

1. In a large bowl, gently combine ber-

ries with 1½ Tbsp. sugar. Let stand until sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes.

2. Spoon half of the strawberries into 1. In a blender,

purée berries, lemon juice, and ¾ cup

simple syrup

8 serving bowls or stemmed glasses and set aside. With a mixer, beat

cream in a medium bowl until thick; chill.

3. Fill a large pot with 1 in. water and

until smooth.

bring to a gentle simmer. In a large

strainer to

together egg yolks, Vin Santo, Prosec-

pitcher. Stir in

(but not touching) simmering water

and add

is thick, frothy, and forms a ribbon

Use a mesh

copper or stainless steel bowl, whisk

strain into a

co, and ½ cup sugar. Set bowl over

5 cups water

and vigorously whisk until mixture

simple syrup

when whisk is lifted, about

to taste.

2. Pour lemon-

8 to 12 minutes.

4. Remove bowl from heat and whisk

ade into ice-

until the mixture is just lukewarm,

and add a

in whipped cream. Spoon zabaglione

to each.

top with reserved berries.

filled glasses

5 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, fold

mint sprig

over strawberries in serving bowls and

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

43

TEA TIME

Balmuda The Kettle Ritualize your pour-over cof-

Top Trend: The Kinder Kitchen

fee or tea routine with this

compact electric kettle that

boils water in a jiffy and with

It’s electric, it’s efficient,

style. We love its matte black

and it looks sleek and stylish.

finish and throwback amber indicator light integrated

Here’s the kitchen gear

into the handle.

that’s kind to you and

$179, balmuda.com

kind to the world.

COUNTER INTELLIGENCE

Anova Precision Oven Formerly the secret weapon of professional chefs and caterers, combi ovens pair steam

and convection heat to dial in juicy, crisp-skinned chicken,

succulent roasts, and tender

vegetables with sous-vide-like accuracy. Enter Anova's Preci-

sion Oven, which offers pro efficiency at civilian prices.

$599, a novaculi nar y.com

CLEAN MACHINE

iRobot Roomba s9+ The nightly ritual of sweeping the kitchen floor can be retired in

perpetuity thanks to this top-of-

the-line Roomba. It’s self-emptying, learns your floorplan on its own, and, unlike you, can recharge itself instantly when

needed. $1,099, irobot.com

THE FIFTH A N N UA L

“SMARTER”

Awards EDITORS SELECT THE BEST TECH PRODUCTS OF THE YEAR FOR YOUR HOME

In the years since we launched this franchise, so-called “smart” technology has evolved from science fiction experiments riddled with configuration glitches and rapid obsolescence to life-improving essentials that make almost everything that much easier. Check out our favorite new devices, systems, and solutions for improving your life with every click, swipe, and command.

FERTILE GROUND

FoodCycler FC-50

Story by MAT T B EAN and H U G H GARVE Y Photograph by TH O MAS J. STO RY

Tricked out with a robust grinding mechanism, a carbon filter,

and an air-tight storage bucket, and taking up only 1 square foot of countertop, this machine

grinds up vegetables and other food scraps and transforms

them into nutrient-rich fertilizer, no composting required. $400, vita m i x.com

SUPER COOL

SMEG Refigerator The Smeg refrigerator is a modern classic that raised the

bar on kitchen appliance design. The compact 24 inch wide model also is one of the most energy efficient refrigerators on the market, plus the slightly reduced storage space en-

courages buying just what you need for the week, which has been shown to reduce food waste. $2,999, smegusa.com

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

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ROYAL FLUSH

Duravit SensoWash i Behold the status toilet 2.0! The new Duravit

SensoWash i has us coveting the sleek Philippe

Starck–designed com-

mode. We love the minimalist space-saving

design, heated seat, air

drying, bidet functionality,

odor extraction, nightlight, no-touch app controls.

The bathroom is our new favorite room in the house.

$8,755, duravit.us

iFIDO

Fi Smart Dog Collar Series 2 Like a FitBit for Fido, this durable connected collar welcomes our four-legged friends into the age of optimization and security. Using GPS, you can track steps, receive alerts when

the collar leaves a predetermined geo-fence, connect with other dogs (and owners) in the community, and more. Jail break? Just trigger “lost dog” mode and you’ll be able to

track them down to a seven-foot radius. There’s no better way to keep tabs on your furball. $149, tr yfi.com

BRIGHT IDEA

Dyson Lightcycle Morph Desk Lamp Two lamps in one, this

ingenious desk system is

IN CHARGE

Belkin 3-in-1 Wireless Charger with MagSafe

loaded with next-level

features. For starters, the motion-detecting,

app-connected lighting system can work as a

task lamp, with a boommounted LED grouping

cables snaking from a

power strip can instantly

undermine the elegance

of an Apple product. Belkin's charging station

keeps your devices ready and your desk sleek and serene, while corralling

your go-to tech gear all in one place.

$150, belki n.com

that can range from

warm and relaxing to

cool, precise illumination.

Then there’s the vertical shaft lamp that can

bathe your space with a

comforting, golden glow.

We’ve never seen

anything like it—once

again, Dyson has made

a drool-inducing piece of hardware out of an

everyday appliance. $649, dyson.com

46

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

COURTESY OF COMPANIES

A tangle of chargers and

FLOW PRO

Phyn Smart Water Assistant Smart plumbing is now a

reality. Not only can units like this one help detect leaks and shut off your

PICTURE PERFECT

system as a failsafe, they

Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max

also help you monitor

your consumption with an eye toward conservation.

This system even learns as you go and can help

There’s the unbelievable

track usage down to the

camera, the ultra-bright

individual faucet.

screen, and the much-

$299, phy n.com

heralded 5G capability,

which promises full-resolution movie downloads in ten seconds or so.

SMART STORAGE

We’re blown away by the

SanDisk Ixpand Wireless Charger Sync

constellation of accessories that leverage Apple’s new game-changing

We’ve all fought the uphill battle against cloud storage for our phone backups.

This wireless Qi-compatible charger not only pumps out 10 watts of power, it

also backs up your handset with onboard memory up to 256 gigabytes. Lay the phone down for the night and sleep soundly knowing your data is secure the next day. $99 a nd up, shop.wester ndigital.com

MagSafe technology,

which improves wireless charging dramatically by pulling the handset

into just the right place on the charger.

$1,099 a nd up, apple.com

COURTESY OF COMPANIES

Speakers of the House Smart speakers are commonplace these days—and the one you choose might have more to do with your favorite digital assistant than the actual product features. We looked at sound quality, compatibility with smart home platforms, assistant performance, privacy, and design to choose our favorite new units from the big three.

YOUR HELPER:

YOUR HELPER:

Google Assistant

Siri

YOUR HELPER:

Alexa

YOUR SPEA K ER:

YOUR SPEA K ER:

Y O U R S P E A K E R:

Google Nest Audio

Apple HomePod Mini

Amazon Echo

Solid sound in a slim silhouette, this helper has top-notch intuition and smart privacy features. A physical switch—the only one on the device— disconnects the mic, and the device learns your most common asks and processes them locally, reducing your reliance on sending audio to the cloud.

Separation means safety. $100, store.google.com

Apple’s also strong in the privacy game, as they’re the only player here that doesn’t mine your data for dough. But we love this setup most for its integration into the Apple ecosystem— particularly the ability to dictate and hear text messages from our network.

Lost your iPhone somewhere in the house? Fess up and Siri will trigger a tone to guide you. Bonus: Pair two units together for a killer stereo setup or TV add-on. Want to transfer a podcast from your phone to the HomePod? Just tap the handset on the top of the speaker, et voilà! $99, apple.com

Redesigned from the ground up, this fourth-generation Echo adds ZigBee compatibility, allowing it to function as a hub for smart devices, from doorbells to light bulbs. It packs an audio punch, thanks to stereo drivers, and boasts upgraded silicon brains to help Alexa make quick work of your commands. $100, amazon.com

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

47

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1/6/21 2:47 12/17/20 4:25 PM PM

FOOD

&

DRINK

Hawaii 411

These inspired, flavorpacked recipes from Sheldon Simeon will forever expand your notion of what Hawaiian food can be.

Photographs by KE VI N J. M IYAZAKI

W

hen Sheldon Simeon was a kid growing up in Hilo, he’d help put together massive spreads of pupus for guests his dad had invited over at the last minute. Improvisation was key and delicious was a given. Simeon, if you don’t know, is a two-time Top Chef veteran (and fan favorite), the chef behind Maui's Tin Roof restaurant, and the author of the new Cook Real Hawai’i, a book that expands the popular definition of Hawaiian food beyond the clichés like kalua pig (if you’re looking for amazing pork dishes, rest assured the book includes a killer recipe for Pork Belly Dinakdakdan, a tangy and rich chile-spiked dish that expresses Simeon’s Filipino-Hawaiian heritage). As Simeon puts it: “Tom Colicchio said to me: ‘If you combine delicious and delicious, you’re going to get more delicious.’” Which is exactly what these dishes are. Whether it’s the nostalgic flavors of ranch-dressing-draped blistered shisito peppers or classic huli huli chicken enriched with koji paste, these are simple but smart combinations of a few good ingredients that will nourish you at home—until you can get to Maui and try Simeon’s food firsthand in the land where it came from.

Blistered Shishitos With Furikake Ranch and Crispy Quinoa

3. In a small bowl, whisk together the ranch with 2 Tbsp. of the furikake.

Serve it alongside the shishitos.

Sprinkle with the remaining furikake

SERVE S 2 T O 4 / 1 H O U R

before serving.

“I imagine many chefs have a dish like this, one that begins as a hastily assembled staff meal and somehow morphs into one of the most popular things they’ve ever served in a restaurant. Oh, wait, is it just me?

It began with shishito peppers blistered in a screaming hot pan, because who doesn’t love shishitos? I took some cooked quinoa that was on the line and threw it in the fryer until it turned nutty and crunchy. I mixed some furikake and ranch together, because delicious plus delicious equals more delicious. The rest is history.

That dish first went on the menu at Migrant, which closed in 2016; people still request that I cook it for them to this day. But I’m fine with it, because it’s still a combination of tastes and textures that I crave. In fact, I made it for the construction guys who poured the cement patio at my house just the other week. Furikake ranch forever.”

4 Tbsp. neutral oil such as canola ½ cup cooked quinoa Kosher salt 1 lb. shishito peppers Garlic salt ½ lemon, cut into wedges ¾ cup ranch dressing (made from

Hidden Valley ranch dressing mix)

3 Tbsp. Furikake )

50

M A K E S A B O UT ¾ C UP 2

3

cup sesame seeds

3 sheets unseasoned nori (dried seaweed), about ¼ ounce

2 Tbsp. dried bonito flakes 2 tsp. sugar 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal (or 1½ tsp.

Morton) kosher salt

depends on the quinoa’s moisture

1. In a dry pan or skillet, toast the sesa-

content; freshly cooked quinoa will

me seeds over medium heat until

take longer). Drain the fried quinoa on

lightly toasted, about 2 minutes, stir-

paper towels and season with a pinch

ring often. (If your seeds are sold

of kosher salt. Wipe the pan clean.

roasted, skip this step.) Transfer to a

2. Add the remaining 2 Tbsp. oil to the pan and place over high heat. Once

small bowl and let cool completely.

2. If the nori sheets are not crisp

the oil begins to smoke, add the

enough to crumble easily, carefully

shishitos. It’s important that all the

toast them by waving them over a

peppers touch the pan, so work in

gas flame or placing under a broiler

batches if necessary. Sear the pep-

1. In a large skillet, heat 2 Tbsp. of the oil

FURIKAKE

pers on all sides, turning occasional-

for a few seconds.

3. In a food processor, combine the

over medium-high heat. When it’s

ly, until they begin to blister and

sesame seeds, nori, bonito flakes,

shimmering-hot, add the quinoa to

slightly char, about 4 minutes. Sea-

sugar, and salt. Pulse 8 to 10 times or

the pan and spread evenly. Cook, stir-

son to taste with garlic salt and a

until mixture is well blended. Store in

ring occasionally, until golden-brown

squeeze of lemon. Transfer to a plate

a sealable container in a cool, dry

and crisp, 5 to 15 minutes (this

and top with the fried quinoa.

place for up to 1 month.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM COOK REAL HAWAI’I BY SHELDON SIMEON AND GARRETT SNYDER, COPYRIGHT© 2021.

PUBLISHED BY CLARKSON POTTER/PUBLISHERS , AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE.

1. Place the chicken in a large bowl

Chicken (or Turkey) Arroz Caldo S ERV ES 4 TO 6 / 2 HO U RS

“It’s a common local tradition to make rice porridge with leftover turkey the day after Thanksgiving, but what you called it depended on your roots. For Chinese and Korean families it was jook; Japanese families, okayu or zosui; and for Filipino families, arroz caldo, a dish that translates to ‘rice broth’ in Spanish.

There’s no agreed-upon recipe for arroz caldo, per se; it’s more of a simple equation of rice, salt, and water doctored up with whatever seasonings are handy. Some people like their arroz caldo soupy, others prefer it cooked longer so the rice breaks down and it becomes thick and starchy.

Since most of the year you won’t have a turkey carcass to pick from, this version uses chicken thighs (though the leftover turkey option is also included). And since half the appeal of arroz caldo is in the toppings, I use a grip of them here: fresh scallions, fried garlic, pork rinds, boiled eggs, citrus, and a spicy umami-bomb condiment we make at Lineage called Hilo X.O.” 2 lbs. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (or 3 cups shredded cooked turkey meat)

1½ tsp. garlic salt ½ tsp. ground white pepper 2 Tbsp. neutral oil such as canola 1 medium yellow onion, diced 6 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger 1 cup uncooked rice 6 cups chicken or turkey broth 1 Tbsp. fish sauce, plus more to taste

FOR SERVING (ALL OPTIONAL) Calamansi or lime wedges Fried garlic or crushed pork rinds 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced Hilo X.O. Soft-boiled eggs, peeled and halved

and sprinkle with the garlic salt and white pepper. Toss to coat, then set

aside. (If using turkey, you will season it with garlic salt and white pepper and add it later.)

2. In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high until shimmering-hot. Add

the onion, minced garlic, and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until

softened and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken and cook, stirring occasionally, until the skin begins to brown and the fat renders, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in the rice so that it’s coated in

chicken fat and cook for another 5

minutes, until the rice smells toasted and nutty. (At this point, if you’re us-

ing cooked turkey, season the shredded meat with garlic salt and white

pepper to taste and add to the pan.)

Pour in the broth.

4. Increase the heat and bring to a boil.

Reduce to a low simmer and cook,

stirring occasionally, until the chicken is nearly falling off the bone and the rice grains have broken down

significantly, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove the chicken from the pot and let cool. (If you’re using turkey, just

leave it in there.) Adjust the consistency with water as desired.

5. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the

bones and roughly chop, then stir it back into the arroz caldo. Season with the fish sauce, then divide

among bowls. If desired, squeeze

a calamansi or lime wedge over the

top (serve extra wedges on the side) and garnish with fried garlic,

scallions, X.O. sauce, and a softboiled egg.

Huli Huli Chicken S E R VE S 2 TO 4 / 2 HO URS

“Huli means ‘turn’ in Hawaiian, a reference to the special rotating grills used to cook this local style of rotisserie chicken. Huli huli, so the legend goes, was created by an enterprising poultry farmer named Ernest Morgado in 1955. In the decades since, it has become a favorite here, often sold at school fundraisers and stands that set up along the highway.

Recipes for huli huli tend to use teriyaki with the addition of ketchup or pineapple for tanginess. When I put huli huli chicken on the menu at Lineage, the idea was to combine those homey roadside flavors with how classic roast chicken is often presented at fancy restaurants. I start by coating the chicken in shio koji, a paste for marinating or seasoning made from fermented rice malt and salt, which has the dual effect of tenderizing the bird and unlocking a whole universe of savoriness. (Readyto-use shio koji paste or marinade is available at most Japanese and Asian markets, or can be ordered online.)”

1 whole chicken (3–4 lbs.),

spatchcocked (see Note)

½ cup shio koji paste 3 cups chicken stock 8 Tbsp. (1 stick) salted butter 2 Tbsp. oyster sauce ¼ cup pineapple juice ¼ cup packed light brown sugar 4 oz. ginger, sliced and crushed 6 cloves garlic, crushed and peeled 2 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil 12 scallions, white and green parts

separated, greens roughly chopped

1 Tbsp. cornstarch Garlic salt Oil, for the grill

1. Place the chicken on a large sheet pan and rub all over with the shio

koji. Cover loosely with parchment paper and refrigerate overnight.

52

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

2. In a saucepan, combine the chicken stock, butter, oyster sauce, pineap-

ple juice, brown sugar, ginger, garlic,

Hilo X.O.

parts of the scallions with the butt of

M AK E S AB O UT 2 C UP S / 1 HO UR

to a boil, then reduce the heat and

“At Lineage, we made our own X.O.style sauce—a spicy flavor-bomb condiment traditionally flavored with Chinese smoked ham and dried seafood. Rather than a standardized recipe, our cooks often used whatever bits and pieces were around that day, and it always included some blend of sweet, smoky, salty going on—a balanced approach reflected in the recipe below. Considering its profound wallop of flavor, a couple spoonfuls go a long way. Use it to season cooked rice or noodles, top roasted vegetables and grilled meats, or dab onto steamed fish or seafood.”

and sesame oil. Crush the white

a knife and add those, too. Bring this

simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the liquid has re-

duced by about half. Remove the

ginger, scallions, and garlic using a slotted spoon or sieve.

3. In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch

with 2 Tbsp. water to make a slurry.

Stir it into the sauce and increase

the heat to bring back to a boil before removing from the heat.

4. An hour before you’re ready to cook, remove the chicken from the fridge and let it come to room temperature.

5. When you’re ready to cook the chicken, rinse off the shio koji and pat the

chicken dry with a paper towel. Season the chicken lightly and evenly with garlic salt.

6. Preheat a grill to medium-hot. Using tongs, oil the grates of the grill with

an oiled rag or paper towels. Set up

the grill for two-zone cooking: If using coals, push them off to one side of

the grill so you have direct and indirect heat. If using gas, reduce the

heat to low on one side of the grill.

7. Place the chicken, breast-side up, on the cooler side of the grill. Cover and

grill for 10 minutes. Uncover, brush the chicken with sauce, cover, and grill another 10 minutes. Uncover, glaze

the chicken again, then flip the chicken breast-side down onto the hotter

part of the grill. Cook over direct heat, uncovered, until the skin begins to

N O T E: The easiest way to spatchcock a chicken is to have your butcher do it.

Otherwise, use a sharp pair of kitchen shears to cut along both sides of the chicken’s backbone (spine), separating it from the ribs. With the backbone removed, turn the bird over so the breast is facing up.

Splay out the legs and breasts until they lie flat, and give the bird a firm press in the center of the breast; you may hear a crack, and it should lie flat on its own.

3 oz. dried shrimp 3 oz. dried cuttlefish or squid jerky, roughly chopped

2 jalapeños, seeded and roughly chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced ½ medium sweet onion, roughly chopped

2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh

lemongrass (cut from the tender center of 1 stalk)

2 small links lap cheong (Chinese

sausage; about 3 oz. total), sliced

½ cup neutral oil ¼ cup sambal oelek

in a microwave-safe bowl and cover with water. Microwave for 4 minutes, or until the cuttlefish is tender and

shreds apart when pinched. Reserving ½ cup of the soaking water, drain and set aside.

2. In a food processor, combine the jalapeños, garlic, onion, and lemon-

grass, and pulse until a rough paste

forms (scrape down the sides of the

bowl if necessary). Add the sausage, dried shrimp, and dried cuttlefish and pulse until finely minced.

3. In a large wok or skillet, heat the

neutral oil over medium-high heat until shimmering-hot. Add the onion-shrimp-sausage mixture and

stir-fry until it’s very fragrant and beginning to crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the sambal, oyster sauce, brown

sugar, fish sauce, Cognac, five-spice powder, and sesame oil and continue to stir-fry until the mixture starts to caramelize, 2 to 3 minutes.

4. Deglaze the pan by stirring in the re-

served shrimp soaking water, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Continue cooking

until the liquid has mostly evaporated, then remove from the heat.

Transfer to a jar or sealable glass container and let cool. Once the

mixture has cooled, cover and re-

frigerate. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. Bring back to room temperature before using.

2 Tbsp. oyster sauce 1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. light brown sugar

brown and char slightly, about 10

2 tsp. fish sauce

flip the chicken breast-side up, still

½ tsp. Chinese five-spice powder

minutes, then brush with sauce and

2 Tbsp. Cognac or other brandy

over direct heat. Brush the breasts

1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil

with sauce and continue cooking the

1. Place the dried shrimp and cuttlefish

chicken over direct heat until the juices run clear or a thermometer inserted into the breast reads 160°F (plan

for about 40 minutes total cook time).

Remove the chicken from the grill and let rest for 15 minutes.

8. Meanwhile, bring any remaining

sauce to a boil (if the sauce is broken, don’t worry, it will emulsify when it

boils). Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Slice the chicken and

serve topped with some more sauce

Be sure to pick up a copy of Cook Real Hawai'i for more inspired recipes from Sheldon Simeon $35, amazon.com

and the chopped scallion greens.

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

53

Alcohol-Free

COCKTAILS FROM THE

BEST BARTENDERS IN

The West Photographs by ALEX L AU

Shirley Temple might've been a star, but she sure doesn't make a very good faux cocktail. “Until recently, alcohol-free cocktails have been treated as afterthoughts,” says Julia Bainbridge, author of the new book Good Drinks: Alcohol-Free Recipes for When You’re Not Drinking for Whatever Reason. “A higher level of effort and care anoints them as proper drinks.” Bainbridge spent the better part of a year driving across the country, cataloging and chronicling a welcome trend that’s emerged in recent years: talented bartenders applying their exacting methods to the creation of alcohol-free drinks that stand on their own as delicious and inspiring cocktails that aren’t just “virgin” versions of classic drinks. “People don't drink for all kinds of reasons,” says Bainbridge. “Religion, health issues, substance-use disorders, pregnancy, mindful living. Maybe alcohol simply doesn’t fit into their lives anymore. Maybe they’re just not drinking this week. Or this night. Or this round. (And by the way, the why just doesn't need to be part of the conversation!) This book is for all of them— and, really, anyone interested in having a culinary experience.” While this is a global revolution, here we've compiled a few exceptional drinks from talented bartenders in the West who've applied their mixological knowhow to drinks that satisfy and delight, albeit without the booze.

54

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM GOOD DRINKS: ALCOHOL-FREE RECIPES FOR WHEN YOU’RE NOT DRINKING FOR WHATEVER REASON BY JULIA BAINBRIDGE, © 2020.

PUBLISHED BY TEN SPEED PRESS, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE.

Get Well Soon J I M M E E HAN — AU T H O R O F ME E H AN ’ S B AR T E ND ER M A NU A L

"Jim Meehan was my first-ever boss out of college. He is a legend in the bartending world, and I had the privilege of being his assistant on Food & Wine's 2007 cocktail guide, a book of drink recipes the magazine used to publish annually. He’s remained a supporter and a friend ever since, and now here I am, writing my own book, to which he so graciously contributed. Jim’s drink is a toddy inspired by the Master Cleanse (!), and he calls it 'a post snow-shoveling cocktail.' If the flavor is too concentrated for you, simply add another ounce or two of hot water."

S E R V E S 1 / 2 0 M I NUTES ¾ oz. freshly squeezed lemon juice ¾ oz. Turmeric-Ginger Honey Syrup (recipe follows)

1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar Pinch of cayenne pepper 1 clove-studded lemon wheel, for garnish

1. Fill a mug with hot water and let it

stand for 1 to 2 minutes to warm it.

2. Empty the mug and fill it with the

lemon juice, syrup, vinegar, pepper,

and 5 ounces hot water. Stir to com-

bine. Garnish with the clove-studded lemon wheel.

3. Batch for 6: Fill a 6-to-8-cup ther-

mos with 3¾ cups hot water. Add ½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. freshly squeezed

lemon juice, ½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. syrup, ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar, and ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper. Stir to combine, then divide among 6

pre-warmed mugs. Garnish each

with a clove-studded lemon wheel.

TURMERIC-GINGER HONEY SYRUP M AK E S J US T O V E R ½ CU P, E NO UGH F O R 6 D R I NKS 1 oz. fresh turmeric juice 1 oz. fresh ginger juice ⁄3 cup honey

1

• Whisk together the juices and honey until well combined. Store in an air-

tight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

55

Better Bottles NO ALCOHOL? NO PROBLEM. NO-ABV DRINKS THAT DELIGHT.

GHIA A zero-proof aperitif inspired by the vermouths of the mediterranean.

DRINKGHIA.COM

MANUFAKTUR JÖRG GEIGER All hail nonalcoholic Prosecco, because, let's be honest, we mostly like Prosecco for the bubbles.

DELMOSA.COM

GNISTA

Nectar of the Gods MINE T TA GO ULD — LA DY JA N E , D E N V E R, CO L O RA DO

"Brine and soda is a funkier, saltier, but equally simple alternative to syrup and soda. With this recipe, Minetta Gould kicks brine and soda up a notch, adding citrus juice to the mix and using brine from jarred Sweety Drops, Peppadews, or sweet cherry peppers. Bread-and-butter pickles could work, too, but I recommend reducing or omitting the simple syrup if you go the latter route."

S E R VE S 1 / 10 MI N UTES 2 oz. freshly squeezed grapefruit juice ¾ oz. freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ oz. sweet pickle brine ½ oz. simple syrup 5–6 oz. soda water 1 grapefruit slice or pickle, for garnish

1. Combine the juices, brine, and simple syrup in a Collins glass and stir to combine. Add ice and top with

2. Batch for 6: Combine 1½ cups grapefruit juice, ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 3 oz. brine, and 3 oz.

simple syrup in a pitcher and stir to

more. Divide among 6 Collins glasses, adding more soda water if you

wish. Garnish each with a grapefruit slice or pickle.

Note: You could keep a batch of the

slice or pickle.

the fridge for a couple weeks without

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

This UK-based brand offers a line of "healthier booze alternatives" that load beverages with bold, bittersweet botanicals.

THREESPIRITDRINKS.COM

cups soda water, gently stirring once

base (the juices, syrup, and brine) in losing much integrity. Just top with soda water to serve.

56

THREE SPIRIT

combine. Add ice and top with 3¾

soda water, gently stirring once

more. Garnish with the grapefruit

This "zero-proof spirit" employs boozy botanicals like oak and wormwood to give its zero-proof offerings backbone.

GNISTASPIRITS.COM

NON Salted raspberry and chamomile make this Australian zero-ABV wine taste like a natural pét-nat.

DRINKNOLOW.COM

Yu the Great SAMAN THA AZA RO W — DE PA RT URE , PO RT L A N D , O R E GO N

"Former beverage director Samantha Azarow leaned on coconut milk in order to keep Departure’s menu dairy-free, and it works to marry two seemingly incompatible ingredients in this drink: basil and matcha. I tested the recipe with Italian basil, out of curiosity, and it didn’t work. You really want Thai basil, which is less sweet, more herbal and licorice-like—spicy, even.

It’s grown domestically these days, and if it’s not at your local supermarket, you can find it at Southeast Asian stores or order it online at importfood. com. Find matcha powder at most major grocery stores or at kettl.co. And feel free to bump up the lime juice to one ounce if you want more acidity."

S E R V E S 1 / 3 0 M I NUTES 1 oz. Basil-Matcha Syrup (recipe follows)

¾ oz. freshly squeezed lime juice 1 oz. full-fat coconut milk, well shaken 3 oz. soda water Matcha powder, for garnish

1. Combine the syrup, lime juice, and

coconut milk in a cocktail shaker. Fill with ice, seal the shaker, and shake just to combine, about 3 seconds.

Double-strain into a tumbler filled with ice and top with soda water.

(This will produce foam, so pour

slowly and carefully.) To garnish, sift

matcha powder on top of the foam.

2. Batch for 6: Combine ¾ cup syrup, ½ cup plus 2 tsp. lime juice, ¾ cup coconut milk, and 2 cups ice in a

blender and pulse once or twice, just to combine. Divide among 6 tum-

blers and top each with soda water.

Garnish each with a dusting of matcha powder.

BASIL-MATCHA SYRUP

M AK E S 1 ¼ CUP S , E NOU GH F OR 1 0 D R I NK S 1½ tsp. matcha powder 1 cup loosely packed fresh Thai basil leaves

1 cup sugar

• Combine the matcha powder, basil, sugar, and ¾ cup hot water in a

blender and blend on high until

smooth and bright green and the

sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes.

Strain through a cheesecloth-lined strainer, discard the solids, and let

the syrup cool to room temperature.

The syrup will keep for 1 week in the refrigerator.

Story by H U G H GARVE Y

NOURISH AND FLOURISH

Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

AYURVEDIC EXPERT RADHI DEVLUKIA-SHETTY SHARES CLEANSING DISHES AND DRINKS TO HELP YOU REFRESH, RESTORE, AND RENEW.

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

59

A gentle breeze sends bougainvillea petals scattering across the patio. We're at the serene home compound of Radhi Devlukia-Shetty, the Ayurvedic cooking and wellness expert, high up in the Hollywood Hills, the iconic sign looking down on us, Lake Hollywood gleaming in the distance below. The aroma of toasting coriander and fennel wafts outside as Radhi prepares kitchari. Made of stewed lentils and warming spices, it's a classic dish in Ayurvedic medicine that's meant to balance, cleanse, and nourish, three principles of the 5,000-year-old practice that Radhi celebrates and shares with her million-plus followers across YouTube, Instagram, TikTok, and her blog. Today she's preparing a menu of dishes that are vibrantly colored, boldly seasoned, deeply satisfying, some might say indulgent—and that just happen to be vegan, and very, very good for you.

Born in England, Radhi moved to Los Angeles three years ago after having lived two years in New York, where she was drawn to Ayurveda as a practice and eventually a profession. "New York didn't really suit my constitution," she says. "But when I visited L.A. on a work trip with my husband, I fell in love with the energy, the pace, and the people. It was so much more my vibe. It also had a lot to do with nature—you can drive an hour here or hour there and there's so much beauty." While some might challenge that perspective on a massive city with more than its fair share of chaos, it's Radhi's ability to find the bliss in the everyday that makes her so appealing and accessible. But it doesn't come without regular and intentional thought and method. Even the most disciplined student of morning routines might have a hard time keeping up with Radhi's, which involves a 5 a.m. wakeup, stretching, self-massage, and a multi-stage meditation session (watch "My 5 am(ish) Morning Routine" on YouTube for a serious case of selfcare envy).

The same thought and intention go into everything she eats, including the recipes on the following pages, which have all been chosen to function in the bridge season

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

In Ayurveda, warming spices like fennel, cumin, and mustard seed are thought to aid in digestion.

Radhi DevlukiaShetty rises at 5 a.m. to meditate.

between winter and spring. "We’re moving out of the cooler season and heading into the warmer season. Because Ayurveda is preventative, you need to get a grip on what’s to come." The thinking is, spices such as coriander, ginger, and mustard seeds are warming and help modulate the coolness of winter and detoxify what's accumulated over the season, while preparing you for the warmer months ahead. Those spices also make for dishes and drinks that are both comforting and invigorating: a ridiculously easy detoxifying CCF tea (that's short for coriander, cumin, and fennel), a springy minty zucchini soup, super-pretty chocolate Ojas balls loaded with adaptogens. Even if you're not a practitioner of Ayurveda, the benefits of these dishes are clear: They're nutrient-rich, stunningly beautiful, in sync with the seasons, and, most of all, undeniably delicious.

GUTTER CREDIT

GUTTER CREDIT

“ A kitchari cleanse is common in Ayurveda and helps reset your body during seasonal changes.”

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

63

Zucchini Mint Soup "If spring were to take the form of a soup, I genuinely believe it would taste like this. I’ve made this with and without the pistachios, I’ve made it with and without the fennel. It’s a very versatile soup, and you can experiment with whatever veggies you happen to have in your fridge."

4 SERV I N GS 1 Tbsp. vegan butter or extra-virgin coconut oil

4 cups chopped zucchini 1 cup chopped celery 1 cup chopped fennel 1

8

tsp. asafoetida

½ tsp. pink Himalayan salt ½ cup pistachios

1. Put vegan butter, zucchini, celery,

fennel, asafoetida, pink salt, and 1 cup water in a large pot.

2. Cover with lid, and cook on medium

heat for about 20 minutes, or until all the vegetables are mushy and the pistachios are soft. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.

3. Put soup ingredients and mint leaves in a blender and combine at high

speed until super smooth, adding up to ½ cup water for consistency.

5. Pour into a bowl, drizzle with olive oil oil, sprinkle with sesame seeds, and serve.

15–20 fresh mint leaves olive oil for garnish black sesame seeds for garnish

CCF Ayurvedic Tea A well-known Ayurvedic tea that aids digestion, increases absorption of nutrients, and helps detoxify the body.

2 SERV I N GS 2 cups water 1 tsp. coriander seeds 1 tsp. cumin seeds 1 tsp. fennel seeds

1. In a small pan over high heat, bring water to boil. Turn off the heat.

2. Add coriander, cumin, and fennel seeds and let steep for at least 5 minutes.

3. Strain into a cup and serve.

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

65

Kitchari "Kitchari means mixture and is an age-old Indian recipe that's often served to you when you’re feeling a little under the weather or sick. When I was young and it was kitchari day, I would have a tantrum and be extremely mad about it. But now I make it almost three times a week. In Ayurveda, kitchari is like the mother of all dishes; the lentils and rice come together to make a complete protein, and the veggies (although not a traditional addition to kitchari) provide vitamins and minerals, and the spices detox your body. A kitchari cleanse is common in Ayurveda and helps reset your body and digestive system during seasonal changes."

4 SER VIN G S 1 cup yellow split lentils, soaked

overnight or for at least 2 hours

1 cup basmati rice (or ½ cup rice and ½ cup quinoa)

1 tsp. turmeric 4 cups diced carrots and zucchini 1 Tbsp. avocado oil 1 ½ Tbsp. vegan butter or coconut oil 1 Tbsp. cumin seeds 1 tsp. mustard seeds 1 tsp. fennel seeds ½ Tbsp. grated or finely diced fresh ginger

10 fresh curry leaves ½ cup coconut milk (optional, but divine)

½ Tbsp. ground coriander 2 tsp. pink Himalayan salt 1 tsp. garam masala

1. Drain the lentils. Pour rice into a fine meshed strainer and rinse under

running water until the water runs clear.

2. Add the lentil-rice mixture and 8

cups water to a deep cooking pot

and cook on medium heat, partially covered, for 15 minutes.

3. Add the turmeric, half the diced carrots and zucchini, and stir. Cook an-

other 20–25 minutes, covered, or un-

til the vegetables, rice, and lentils are mushy and soupy.

4. Meanwhile, heat avocado oil in a

medium saucepan over medium

heat until shimmering, about 3 min-

remaining cumin and mustard

seeds and fennel seeds. Cook for a few minutes to release aromatics, and until the mustard seeds have

popped. Add the curry leaves and ginger, and stir to combine.

6. Remove from heat and add to the

rice-lentil mixture along with the coconut milk, coriander, salt, and garam masala. Stir to combine.

7. Feel free to add more water if you prefer a soupier texture. I adapt it depending on how my body’s feeling.

8. Top with cooked carrots and zucchi-

leaves, and the remaining carrots

yogurt, or simply enjoy it by itself.

half the cumin seeds, half the curry

sionally, until tender, 7 to 10 minutes.

Set aside.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

butter over medium heat. Add the

utes. Add half the mustard seeds,

and zucchini. Cook, stirring occas-

66

5. In a smaller pan, heat the vegan

ni. Serve with green chutney, vegan

Almond and Coconut Cashew Ojas Balls These beautiful, chocolate-dipped, spiced balls look like dessert, but are boldlyflavored, full of adaptogens, and can function as an energy-boosting snack. To make the balls easier to roll, be sure to use natural almond butter that's separated from its oil and is somewhat crumbly. Ashwagandha, sometimes called "Indian Ginger," is a pungent adaptogen said to reduce stress. For a touch more sweetness use 70 percent cacao dark chocolate.

M AK E S AP P R O X I M ATE L Y 2 0 P I E CE S

RADHI RECOMMENDS...

HERE ARE A FEW EASY AYURVEDIC HACKS TO TRY THIS SPRING. PICK ONE OR TWO, TRY FOR A WEEK, AND NOTICE HOW YOU FEEL.

ALMOND OJAS BALLS

COCONUT CASHEW OJAS BALLS

¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. almond butter

½ cup desiccated coconut

10 Medjool dates, pitted

½ cup raw cashews, plus 2 Tbsp.

½ tsp ashwagandha ½ Tbsp. extra-virgin coconut oil 4 oz. dark chocolate

use the evening to do what it is meant to be doing... resting and detoxing.

2. FIND THE FIRST LIGHT Wake up before 6 a.m., which will prevent you from feeling sluggish throughout the day.

3. DRINK WISELY Drink your fluids between meals, not with your meals. Drinking water with

meals dilutes the acid that is breaking down your food, so it takes longer to digest.

4. RITUALIZE YOUR MEALS Sit and eat your meals in a calm environment and focus on the meal. Try not to eat while working or with distractions around you.

5. TREAT YOURSELF Try to make time for self-care rituals that enhance the detoxing process, such as self-massage (abhyanga) and taking baths.

6. DINE EARLY Ideally, eat your evening meal at least

3 hours before you sleep, so your body is able to fully rest.

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

½ Tbsp. coconut oil ½ tsp. ground cardamom

Freeze-dried raspberries, chopped, for

3.5 oz. dark chocolate

Shaved almonds, for garnish

1. Add coconut, cashews, coconut oil,

garnish

1. SLEEP SMART Get to bed by 10 p.m. so the body can

chopped cashews for garnish

1. Take 1 tsp. of almond butter and roll

into a small ball. Use a little coconut oil to grease your hands if needed.

Repeat approximately 9 more times.

Put on a plate in the freezer for about 10 minutes or until firm.

2. Meanwhile, put dates, ashwagand-

ha, and coconut oil, plus remaining 1 Tbsp. almond butter in a food

processor and mix until all ingredients come together Into a smooth ball, about 3 minutes.

3. Take the almond butter balls out of the freezer. Take approximately 1

Tbsp. of the date mixture, roll into a ball, and pat down into a circle on your hand. Put one almond butter

ball in the middle, wrap filling around it, and roll into a ball. Repeat 9 more

times, place the balls on a plate, and return to the freezer for 10 minutes.

4. Melt chocolate using a double boiler or the bain-marie method. Remove

balls from freezer and dip each one into the chocolate, coating evenly.

Garnish with freeze-dried raspberries and almonds. Place on a plate

lined with parchment paper and refrigerate until chocolate hardens.

and cardamom to a food processor.

Mix until all ingredients are ground up and combined, scraping bowl down midway through, about 2 minutes.

2. Take approximately 1 Tbsp. of the

mixture and roll into a ball. Repeat 9 times.

3. Melt chocolate using a double boiler or the bain-marie method. Dip each ball into the chocolate, coating

evenly, then place on a plate lined

with parchment paper. Garnish with chopped cashews, and rerigerate until chocolate hardens.

Masala Milk 2 S E RV I N GS 2 cups full-fat oat milk

¼–½ Tbsp. chai

masala, depending on how spicy you like it

½ Tbsp. coconut

sugar or date sugar (optional)

Rose petals for garnish

1. Bring milk to boil in a small saucepan.

Reduce heat to a

simmer, add chai masala, and stir.

2. Add sweetener to taste and stir.

3. Pour masala milk

into a cup. Garnish with rose petals

and serve immediately.

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

GUTTER CREDIT

Our editors pick the very best snacks, spices, oil

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

ls, sauces, and more from the West and beyond.

Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

W

e taste a lot of food here at Sunset, all in the line of duty. Whether it’s testing recipes, trying out the latest gluten-free this or keto that or alternative nut milk, or just, you know, eating lunch at our desks (at home, obviously), there’s never a dull taste bud. We’ve also been cooking more than ever before. While we love a laboriously lovely kitchen project that takes hours and hours (name check: sourdough), fast flavor and satisfaction are often the name of the game. So when we vetted, tasted, and selected this year’s winners of the Pantry Awards, it’s no wonder that sauces, pastas, condiments, and snacks figured so heavily in the final selection. We want comfort. We want convenience. And, yes, we want major flavor. So, without further ado, here are the winners of the 2021 Sunset Pantry Awards.

NEGRANTI CREAMERY

Paso Robles, California–based Negranti creamery uses milk from pasture-raised sheep to create its luscious line of ice creams. With gentler lactose than cow’s milk and higher in protein, sheep’s milk plays well with bold flavors like Syrah and blackerry and salted brown sugar.

NEGRANTICREAMERY.COM

Meet Your Matcha

ART OF TEA MATCHA FRESCA The Art of Tea’s vast offerings of all things simmerable and steepable now include what might be the most refreshing way to get your daily dose of healthy caffeine with their Matcha Fresca, a premium matcha blend with uplifting notes of melon.

ARTOFTEA.COM

Smart Storage STASHER BAGS Not only are Stasher’s reusable, machine-

washable, high-grade

platinum-silicone stor-

Cool Condiments FLY BY JING

We’ve long loved Fly By Jing’s tingly spicy salty crunchy Sichuan chili crisp, but the company’s other spices and sauces deserve a place in your pantry. The sultry mala spice should be your go-to chicken thigh seasoning, while the zhong sauce can turn a humble bowl of rice noodles into the main event. FROM $15 / FLYBYJING.COM

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

age bags good for the planet, they roll up,

stack, and compress to slot into even the most crowded refrigerator or cupboard. Bonus:

They can be used for

sous vide, no vacuum sealer required.

STASHERBAG.COM

NEGRANTI: ASHLEY BLASINGAME; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF COMPANIES

Alternative Ice Cream

RULERS OF THE

RACK Better Pepper LILLIE’S BRISKET PEPPER

While most preground pepper pales in comparison to fresh ground, Lillie’s No. 28 Brisket Pepper has tons of the spicy sweet heat and crunch we crave. Perfect for when you need peppery heat at scale (think roasts and whole birds) and don’t want to be grinding for minutes on end.

LILLIESQ.COM

Spice Solution

THOMAS J. STORY

SPICEWALLA

Spicewalla’s tins are loaded with super-fresh spices and blends and are so pretty you’ll want to leave them out on the counter.

The tins stack tidily and also can lie flat in drawer if that’s your preferred storage method.

What’s more, you can order lowwaste pouches to refill the tins as needed. SPICEWALLABRAND.COM

Rice Ready

TRADER JOE’S FURIKAKE This additive and sugar-free furikake is a straight-up blend of white and black sesame seeds, nori, salt, and kelp powder, and adds instant umami to rice, chicken, eggs, and other dishes. Sprinkle generously just before serving for maximum impact.

TRADERJOES.COM

Italy in a Jar

BONA FURTUNA FENNEL POLLEN Foraged in Sicily, this organic fennel pollen is the easiest way to transport your tastebuds to Italy. The heady, licoricey aroma and flavor will elevate a simple roast chicken, upgrade pork chops, and perfect your porchetta.

BONAFURTUNA.COM

F L AV O R S AV E R S CHE FICO CALABRIAN CHILI BOMBA This spicy-tangy California-Italian condiment from San Francisco restaurant Che Fico combines Calabrian and Fresno chiles to powerful effect. CHEFICOALIMENTARI.COM

Top Teriyaki BACHAN’S JAPANESE BARBECUE SAUCE

Made in Sebastopol, California, this just-right saltysweet soy-based sauce from Justin Gill is based on his Bachan’s (a.k.a. grandmother’s) recipe. It’s coldfilled, preservativefree, and loaded with umami.

BACHANS.COM

Plum Good

GIRL MEETS DIRT SHIRO PLUM MINT JAM This tangy, mintinfused jam made from shiro plums grown in Washington’s San Juan Islands is a utility player that’s equally at home on toast and on a cheeseboard.

GIRLMEETSDIRT.COM

Oil Boom

SEKA HILLS OLIVE OIL Milled and bottled by the Yocha Dehe Wintun Nation in California’s Capay Valley, this line of fresh and peppery olive oils is delicious enough to serve as a breaddunking sauce.

Also ideal for finishing salads, soups, pastas, and more.

SEKAHILLS.COM

Berry Nice

OREGON SPECIALTY FRUIT BLUEBERRIES Canned with no added sugar, these blueberries have all the flavor of summer but can be kept in the cupboard year-round until the need for a perfect pie or nextlevel pancakes arises.

THOMAS J. STORY

Fiery Flavor

WHAT’S IN MY PANTRY?

Jenny Gao, Founder, Fly By Jing

Blanc Slate

COWGIRL CREAMERY FROMAGE BLANC Free of additives and fillers often found in cream cheese, this lighter version from legendary Cowgirl Creamery is made with milk from West Marin and is blended with a dollop of crème fraîche. Your breakfast bagel just got a whole lot better.

COWGIRLCREAMERY.COM

Soy Sauce

Can Do

AMY’S ORGANIC TORTILLA SOUP Is there anything more comforting than a warm bowl of tortilla soup? Yes, there is: being able to simply open a can and have all that slow-simmered, organic, vegetarian, black bean, tomato, sweet potato, and masa goodness ready in mere minutes.

AMYS.COM

“One soy sauce is not enough. My kitchen is never without two: a light soy sauce that’s a bit saltier and more savory, and a dark soy sauce that is less salty but with a highly concentrated flavor that adds depth to long braises.”

Hot Stuff

GAO: SANA JAVERI KADRI; AMY’S: THOMAS J. STORY; MEYENBERG: ERIN SCOTT PHOTOGRAPHY; ILLUSTRATIONS BY MICHAEL WILSON; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF COMPANIES

Zhenjiang Black Vinegar

“This is a must-have when cooking Chinese food. This version is aged for six years, giving it a complex flavor, but you can find a more basic version in almost any Chinese market. Treat it like you would lemon to add a little bit of zing to any dish.”

Butter Up

BOONEVILLE FARM PIMENT D’VILLE

ENZO’S TABLE ALMOND BUTTER

Grown from Basque Espelette chile seeds in Boonevlle, California, this slightly hot, slightly sweet pepper should be your go-to when you want to add color and flavor to roast chicken, pork, or soups without overwhelming the flavor of the dish. Try the smoked version as an alternative to chipotle and pimentón. PIMENTDVILLE.COM

Enzo’s estate-grown almond butter is silkysmooth and rich, with a nutty natural sweetness. Their regular almond butter is delightful, but keep an eye out for their seasonal autumn blend that’s spiked with ginger, turmeric, and other warming spices. ENZOSTABLE.COM

Top Trend GOAT GETS GOOD Americans are finally

catching on to what the rest of the world has

Oyster Sauce

“This is an immediate flavor booster whether you’re making a fast stirfry, a slow braise, or just dressing up simple steamed vegetables. Oyster extract, sugar, salt, and water come together to create a thick, umamirich sauce that’s savory but with a hint of sweetness.”

known for centuries: Goat-

dairy products are healthy and delicious. We love

Meyenberg’s goat milk

butter for its earthy sweetness (tip-top on toasted

sourdough!) and Redwood Hill Farm’s kefir for its tangy probiotics.

MEYENBERG.COM / REDWOODHILL.COM

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

77

B R A N D OF THE Y E A R

PATAGONIA PROVISIONS

You likely know that Patagonia has set a high bar in

sustainable best practices in the world of outdoor apparel, but in recent years it has

applied the same rigor to its

food brand Patagonia Provisions (for a crash course on founder Yvon Chou­i­n ard’s

pivot from climbing gear to culinary offerings, read his

essay “Why Food” on PatagoniaProvisions.com). Suf-

WHAT’S IN MY PANTRY?

Katie Flannery, Flannery Beef

fice it to say, unlike buying

gear and traveling for ad-

venture, we all need to eat.

And Patagonia wants to be

at the forefront of saving the planet by any means possible. That means supporting regenerative agriculture

through the production of super-tasty products that are fantastic to have on

hand at the campsite or in

the kitchen: rope-cultivated mussels that clean the

ocean while growing, bison

jerky that restored the prairie on its way to your plate,

Reluctant Trading Salted Cambodian Pepper Berries in Fleur de Sel

“Without a doubt, this is the coolest thing I have in my pantry. Just as fun to pop a few in your mouth while cooking as it is to throw on a finished steak for all the flavor of a peppercorn sauce with zero effort.”

and honey that helps save

the bees. Saving the planet never tasted so good.

Bona Furtuna Sicilian Extra-Virgin Olive Oil

“A friend gave this to me as a gift, and I’m obsessed. It’s from a small town of in Sicily named Corleone (yep, like ‘The Godfather’) on a farm where a botanist revived some super ancient olive species—and it rocks!”

Melt With You

Tender is the Slice

JASPER HILL FARM MELTING BLEND

REGAL MANUKA KING SALMON

Whether you’re making grilled cheese, a gratin, or mac and cheese, you want just the right combination of sharp, salty, and creamy. This special blend of hard cheeses from Jasper Hill Farm is designed to do just that. Bonus: It freezes easily so you can always have some on hand to cook up on a whim. JASPERHILLFARM.COM

Possibly the sweetest, richest, most delicate, pre-cooked salmon we’ve ever had.

Sustainably farmed in New Zealand, the manuka-roasted and honey-finished variety is great for crumbling into a salad, spreading on crackers as an appetizer, topping a bagel, or serving as an instant entrée. REGALSALMON.COM

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

Sonoma Brinery Spicy Bread & Butter Pickles

“Can’t hate on a pickle made in wine country. Crispy, crunchy, sweet, and spicy—all in one.”

PATAGONIA PROVISIONS: THOMAS J. STORY; FLANNERY: FLANNERY BEEF; ILLUSTRATIONS BY MICHAEL WILSON; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF COMPANIES

PATAGONIAPROVISIONS.COM

G R E AT , WITHOUT GRAINS Mac Daddy

THOMAS J. STORY

MODERN TABLE VEGAN MAC

LIVIVA EDAMAME SPAGHETTI

Keep It Keto

Cool Kernels

Made with red lentil flour, rice flour, and pea protein, and a vegan cheese substitute, this mac has all the comforting creaminess of the classic, but without dairy or gluten. Spicy Southwest is our favorite flavor.

MODERNTABLE.COM

With more people incorporating keto into their diets, it’s handy to have an appropriate pasta on hand. This mildly flavored spaghetti cooks up al dente and pairs well with a spicy tomato ragù.

LIVIVAFOODS.COM

This rice alternative made from lentils, chickpeas, and pea fiber has all the textural delights of the real thing but without the glycemic load and with twice the protein. The vibrantly seasoned Spanish flavor is our favorite.

RIGHTRICE.COM

RIGHT RICE

SUPER S NA C K S MAD CRISP

Our new favorite gluten-free happyhour snack is made from puffed quinoa, California almonds, and chives, and comes in wine-friendly flavors like za’atar and porcini-herb.

MADCRISP.COM

Bar None

KATE’S REAL FOOD Made in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, these bars are full of energy-packed clean ingredients like gluten-free oats, hemp, and flax and sweetened with organic honey.

A natural functional food that’s ideal for the trail or slopes.

KATESREALFOOD.COM

Sustainable Staples SUN & SWELL

Sun & Swell’s carbon-neutral mail-order service is a sustainable way to keep your pantry stocked: Buy organic bulk foods like pistachios, dried fruit, hemp, and more, and mail back the compostable bags when you’re done.

SUNANDSWELLFOODS. COM

Sweet Everythings

CLUSTERBUCKS ADAPTOGENIC BUCKWHEAT CRACKERS Who knew sprouted buckwheat groats mixed with coconut, maple syrup, ginger, and turmeric would be an incredible topper for açai bowls and hot cereal? It’s raw, it’s gluten-free, it’s vegan, but most of all it’s delightfully crunchy and delicious.

LOVELILBUCKS.COM

THOMAS J. STORY

Crunch Time

WHAT’S IN MY PANTRY?

Justin Gill, Founder, Bachan’s

Rad Ramen

Superior Salt

IMMI RAMEN

JACOBSEN SALT CO.

Yes, ramen can be soul-satisfyingly, slurpingly umami-packed and warming, and now it can be truly nourishing and sustaining thanks to Immi, the first lowcarb, high-protein (31 grams per serving!) ramen. The noodles are tender, the soup bases flavorful, and the kits invite improvisation with toppings (braise that pork loin and set that egg timer!). IMMIEATS.COM

Oregon’s Jacobsen Salt Company made a name for itself with its superlatively brinycrunchy-flaky finishing salt, but we’re major fans of the company’s humbler pure kosher sea salt, harvested from Netarts Bay. Dry-cure a chicken or beef roast with these pristine crystals and you’ll be forever converted to the idea of fresh and local salt. JACOBSENSALT.COM

Sabor Mexicano Homemade Tortilla Chips

“I love these chips because they are made with good ingredients, taste delicious, and come from another Northern California family. Paired with fresh guacamole, they are a favorite easy snack. “

Top Trend AMAZING MAIL-ORDER MEAT While mail-order meat was a

rarity before the pandemic, this

year saw a boom in companies offering delivery of prime beef, artisanal sausages, heritage ROAM BUTCHER SHOP: KASSIE BORRESON; FLANNERY BEEF: AARON TELL; GILL: © DANIELLE NAVRATIL; ILLUSTRATIONS BY MICHAEL WILSON; REMAINING IMAGES; COURTESY OF COMPANIES

breed pork, and other quality

animal proteins straight to our

doors. We tried many of the services, but two companies stood

out: For quality, variety, and ease of use, we love Roam Butcher

Beaujolais Granola

“A tasty, healthy fuel for bike rides, surfing, and my family’s active lifestyle. We love that they are a local Sonoma County company as well. We like it mixed with yogurt or blended into a smoothie.”

Shop, plus the fact that you can

see which small family farm produced which cut of meat. They

offer free delivery in San Francisco, deliver nationwide, and can help keep your freezer stocked

for the month. And for sheer deliciousness we could not find a

steak, Wagyu or otherwise, that matched the deeply flavored,

perfectly aged, stunningly satisfying “Jorge” cut from top Bay

Area butcher Flannery Beef. It’s a thick bone-in ribsteak that in-

cludes a large portion of the ex-

quisitely marbeled deckle. It’s life changing. ROAMBUTCHERSHOP.COM /

Huy Fong Foods Sriracha

“I love everything about this sauce.

So versatile, the flavor is amazing, and the brand is iconic. They are aspirational for so many of us sauce producers. I make a big breakfast for my family every Sunday, and I put it on my eggs, potatoes, and sometimes on a fried rice omelet.”

FLANNERYBEEF.COM

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

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page

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Three Distinct Idea Homes. Triple the Design Inspiration.

MALIBU

From the desert to the coast, Sunset presents the Idea Hub. The ultimate destination for design influence and creativity driven by the unique architecture and geographic beauty of Southern California. Find it all at Sunset.com/ideahub •Ideas in architecture, home design, and living •Weekend renovations

DESERT OASIS

•Design trends •Smart homes •Expert advice from brilliant creative design minds •Appliances and fixtures •Bold new styles •Garden & landscape plans •DIY product reviews SUNSET BEACH

•Plus updates on our 3 Idea House projects in 2021

Sign up for the Idea Hub newsletter: sunset.com/idea-emails Partnership opportunities: sunsetadops@sunset.com

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1/6/21 2:31 12/30/20 8:48 PM AM

T R AV E L

&

ESCAPES

Have Electric Vehicles Arrived?

Electric cars are changing the way we road trip. But are they ready for prime time?

We drove into the future to find out.

Story by MAT T B EAN Photograph by TH O MAS J. STO RY

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

83

W

2021 Ford Mustang Mach-E SUV With four doors, loads of cargo space, an ele-

gantly appointed interior, and a touchscreen

center console

the size of a flatscreen TV, this

tasteful, solid-

footed SUV is a

Mustang in name only. With generous range, a fair price, and good

looks, this is one

to beat. $ 3 6,0 0 0 w it h fe d e r a l t a x c r e d i t, f o r d.c o m See also: Tesla Model X, Model Y

The stylish and surefooted Mustang Mach-E SUV boasts an impressive touchscreen console.

THOMAS J. STORY

e were somewhere outside of Temecula when the nerves took hold.

“Range anxiety,” they call it—which somehow fails to encapsulate the particular sense of dread that comes from running on empty in an electric vehicle.

Outside, it was 90-plus degrees in late November. Warning chimes reminded me I was on the razor’s edge.

And if the cocoon of this particular car weren’t so cozy—a sleek Audi sportback that purrs to 100 miles per hour and practically drives itself—my hands might have been sweating.

Concessions were in order. I sighed and turned off the seat-back air conditioning, eased off of “sport turbo stupid extreme” mode. “Show me nearby chargers,” I told the digital assistant, that patient, occasionally befuddled British genie whose 4G umbilical cord was my only hope for a much needed dose of voltage.

This was before the third wave of lockdowns, when the responsible, right-sized road trip was the only way to travel in our book. And while here at Sunset we’ve long chronicled the roadways of America and celebrated the vehicles that canvass its breadth, our forays of late have been confined to nearby escapes, not lush forests

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

and breathtaking canyons.

Research, planning, and a healthy amount of precaution aren’t how I approach road trips. But I needed a challenge.

I’d already talked to the experts, who largely agreed that around-town usage of EVs trumps combustion vehicles through and through, thanks to the simplified mechanical systems (read: fewer “catastrophic failures”) and cheap athome charging.

So this jaunt—a spontaneous, carefree weekend in California’s third most popular wine country—was as much a test of me as much as of the car and the systems and networks that support electric vehicles.

“I know you,” my friend had warned. “Nobody’s going to come to your rescue with a five-gallon can of electric.” I’ve run out of gas just outside of Santa Barbara; I’ve ridden a Ducati dry on the George Washington Bridge in New York; and a Tacoma died on me between Oakland and San Francisco. Could the nation’s burgeoning network of superchargers offer salvation?

What I learned during three months of testing electric vehicles for this story and talking to everyone from passersby to all-out experts is this: Electric cars are a joy to drive, sometimes a chore to charge, and for all intents and purposes cheaper, in the long run, than operating a combustion vehicle.

“Most people say, ‘Wow, an EV is a lot more expensive than a gas car with the same features and size,’” says Ben Preston, a senior writer at Consumer Reports who covers

the EV space. “But in most places, especially where there are subsidies and relatively inexpensive electricity, they end up being cheaper in the long run.”

The caveat—and the EV world is loaded with them—is that EVs are not passive conveyances. You don’t just roll up at a Sunoco and pick a number.

You have to commit to ownership.

You have to accept the complications, the tradeoffs to earn the moral and mechanical advantages: reduced emissions, a growing share of renewable energy sources, HOV lane access, and, it must be said, that smug satisfaction you get when passing a lifted diesel with stacks belching black smoke into the air.

As for me, I just found myself wanting to get out and drive each and every car we tested. They just go. And so

can you. Fewer buttons, fewer systems, fewer blinking lights. And for as long as we’ve had four-wheeled transportation, that connection to the car and to the road has been what drives us to roam.

I had all the time in the world to ponder these heady issues as I hugged in behind a semi truck to cheat aerodynamics, sipping electrons toward the tail-end of my trip. The hastily planned excursion ultimately followed the same arc as many a gaspowered road trip I’d seen through: I coasted into my garage, needle near empty, after white-knuckling it the last 15 miles.

I guess whether I’m surfing electrons or firing up the octane, there’s no substitute for an adventure. But as they say, your miles may vary.

CAMP READY:

Bowlus Endless Highways Performance Edition This behemoth Airstream surrogate is our choice to wait out the apocalypse. From spacious skylights to 110V outlets

throughout and a killer kitchen, there’s little left off of the

spec sheet. It’s light enough to be towed by a Tesla, and an

enhanced 8 kWh lithium-iron-phosphate battery allows for up to two weeks of luxe living sans power source—along with an emergency EV charge up to 16 miles. $2 2 5,0 0 0, b o w l u s r o a d c h i e f.c o m

We tested a dozen electric vehicles to arrive at this survey of existing options, and then peered into the crystal

ball (is that what we’re calling Zoom these days?) to see what’s coming from the big manufacturers still playing

THE FUTURE

catch-up in the space. While some are betting big on ambitious new flagship vehicles—such as GM’s relaunched all-electric Hummer—others are, like Dylan, simply plugging in. “Customers love the F-150, the Mustang, and the Transit,” says Kumar Galhotra, president of the Americas & International Markets Group at Ford Motor Company.

“Now they’re going to be able to have them as electric vehicles, too.” Sounds simple, right? Try cramming a bunch of D batteries into your TV remote and you’ll feel their pain. At the end of the day, if you’re getting into the EV

BOWLUS

game, there’s only so much forecasting you can do.

NOTE: While Tesla and GM have already hit the 200,000-vehicle cap on federal subsidies, many other car manufacturers have not—which means new purchases are eligible for a $7,500 tax credit. State and local governments also offer subsidies that vary by location.

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

85

Rivian R1T

While Tesla’s fever-dream

This rig is a four-motor go-getter

energy output can also sap

looks to be one of the first trucks

love the definitely-not-Detroit design,

considering going-off road, is that

Cybertruck hogs the headlines, this scheduled to hit the market, with a

June 2021 due date. Key here is that

the manufacturer won’t soon vanish, as others have: Rivian has also

partnered with Amazon on a line of

delivery vehicles scheduled for 2022.

that promises 300 miles of range. We and a super smart “gear tunnel”

running the length of the vehicle

provides space for two-by-fours and skis alike. EVs boast massive torque, which makes them great in the rough or when towing, though

batteries. The caveat, if you’re

the nationwide charger network isn’t exactly robust in the backcountry,

though Rivian and others are working hard to change that. $67,500

w it h fe d e r a l t a x c r e d it, r iv i a n.c o m See also: Hummer H2

FIRST RIDE:

THE ROLLING REVOLUTION

Electric bicycle You're not the first Sunset reader to turn to us for advice on how to adapt to the evolution of the automobile.

Over the years we've offered solutions to novel chal-

lenges like horses versus cars, how to design an attractive driveway, and what to pack for a desert road trip.

Not ready to invest in a four-wheeled EV? Dip your toe in with Vintage

Electric's Cafe e-bike. A two-hour

charge gives you up to 60 miles of

range, while the top speed of 28 miles per hour makes this a viable form of in-town transportaaion. $ 3,9 95,

v i n t a g e e l e c t r i c b i k e s.c o m

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JEFF JOHNSON; VINTAGE ELECTRIC BIKES; SUNSET PUBLISHING CORP (3)

THE HAULER:

ROAD TRIP ACE:

THE COMMUTER:

SUSTAINABLE SPEED:

This lithe crossover is designed to

This dual-motor fastback offers top-

Spacious, smooth, and sleek, this SUV

aerodynamics. The 90 kWh battery of-

promises smart features in the pipe-

boost engaged, you’ll draw on an extra

Jaguar I-Pace

carve through the wind, improving

fered the most range of anything we

tested, and was also the fastest, with a 0–60 time of just 4.5 seconds. The in-

terior offers futuristic touches such as

smart climate controls and an uncluttered navigation system. $ 69,8 5 0, j a g u a r u s a.c o m

Polestar 2

flight design inside and out, and

line, including driver assist and autopilot. The 300 kW engine pumps out

more than 400 horsepower across an EPA-rated 220 miles for a fun ride, to

boot. This brand is one we’re watching closely. $ 52,4 0 0 w i t h f e d e r a l t a x c r e d i t, p o l e s t a r.c o m

CITY READY:

MINI Cooper SE This around-town buggy is a great blend of polish and price. The range is

just north of 100 miles per charge, but for errands and daily commutes, that should more than qualify. We like the subtle style updates, which keep the

Mini silhouette but add just enough neon to inform the world you’re part of the future. $29,0 0 0 w i t h f e d e r a l t a x c r e d i t, m i n i u s a.c o m

COURTESY OF COMPANIES

See also: Chevy Bolt, Kia Nero, BMW iNex

Audi e-tron Sportback clocks a range north of 200 miles. With reserve of power launching you to 60

miles per hour in just 5.5 seconds. Audi

claims its battery science allows for su-

perior charging and reduced decay with age, though we’ll have to wait that claim out. $ 6 5,9 0 0 w i t h f e d e r a l t a x c r e d i t, a u d i u s a.c o m

IN AN EVER-SHIFTING WORLD, TRAVEL HAS BECOME A GREAT UNKNOWN. BUT WITH HOPE FOR A SAFER FUTURE, WE CAN ALWAYS DREAM. HERE ARE NEW AND UPDATED HOTELS TO PUT ON YOUR LIST FOR NEARBY STAYCATIONS WHEN THE TIME IS RIGHT. Story by H U G H GARVE Y and J. D. S I M KI N S

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

GRAEME OWSIANSKI

DREAMING O F A W E S T E R N G E TAWAY

FIRVALE, BRITISH COLUMBIA

FIRVALE WILDERNESS CAMP Few destinations pair adventure with rustic luxury like this retreat nestled deep in British Columbia’s Bella Coola Valley. Enjoy hiking trails, world-class fishing, and jaw-dropping views of the Monarch Icefield from a seaplane. Evening relaxation awaits in the property’s heated glamping domes and A-frame cabins. The ultimate in social distancing.

GRAEME OWSIANSKI

firvalewildernesscamp.com

PALM SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA

CASA CODY Opened in the 1920s by Buffalo Bill Cody’s cousin Harriet, Casa Cody is the longest-running hotel in Palm Springs and has undergone a top-to-bottom remodel that adds outdoor

soaking tubs, stylish new furnishings, upgraded kitchenettes, re-landscaped grounds, and Parachute linens. casacody.com

SCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA

ARIZONA BILTMORE The iconic desert retreat built in 1928

under the watchful eye of Frank Lloyd Wright has long attracted snowbirds and Old Hollywood (Marilyn Monroe

was a fan of its grand pool). It’s in the

middle of a property-wide renovation, with a new adult pool and bar, next-

level family pool complete with super slides, and other indoor upgrades for when we return to travel in full force.

MORRISTOWN, ARIZONA

PUNTA DE MITA, MEXICO

CASTLE HOT SPRINGS

CONRAD PUNTA DE MITA

Set on 1,100 palm-and-saguaro-stud-

Snuggled in a picturesque oceanfront

toric getaway is ideal for our times:

ico’s Riviera Nayarit. Sample ocean-

ded acres of Sonoran desert, this hisUpdated cabins and bungalows dot

the sprawling resort, the spa features open-air treatment tents, while out-

door activities such as a new via ferrata course, stand-up-paddle yoga,

horseback riding, and archery combine for a haute hard reset for the

mind and body. castlehotsprings.com

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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2021

inlet is this new luxury property in Mexto-table dining, or enjoy a tequila tasting that doubles as a class in local history. Stunning guestrooms and

suites cosset while unparalleled hos-

pitality ensures pandemic safety standards are surpassed. The ultimate WF-

Hotel for the itinerant worker with good taste. conradpuntademita.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JOSH CHO PHOTOGRAPHY; CASA CODY; ARIZONA BILTMORE; ©VICTOR ELIAS; RYAN DONNELL; ©2020 MARK BOISCLAIR PHOTOGRAPHY

arizonabiltmore.com

GRASS VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

HOLBROOKE HOTEL Grass Valley’s Holbrooke Hotel is a Golden State

staple. Boasting a storied history of 1800s fortune seekers, gamblers, and gunfighters, the vintageyet-refined property recently completed a

multi-year renovation fine-tuning much of the

building’s original 1862 charm. Just don’t call it a

comeback—the iconic property has already survived a history of fires and Prohibition. Modern-

ized tweaks to its rustic aesthetic—think original clawfoot bathtubs—have Holbrooke poised to

welcome guests with its timeless allure for years to come. holbrooke.com

SOLVANG, CALIFORNIA VALLEY

HOTEL YNEZ The sister property to nearby Skyview Motel, this low-slung 18-room hotel

boasts vintage and modern amenities, lush gardens, bonfire pits, and an outdoor pavilion perfect for stargazing.

Plates and wine from local wine makers, daily alfresco breakfast, and inhouse desserts will fortify you while

lounging by the pool or unwinding at

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: SYDNEY BROWN (2); NICKI SEBASTIAN; ALISAL; KAT ALVES(2)

the spa will remove any lingering

stresses of urban living. hotelynez.com

SANTA YNEZ, CALIFORNIA

ALISAL The Central Coast’s premiere dude

ranch is taking advantage of its loca-

tion in the rolling hills of the Santa Ynez Valley and has partnered with local

Folded Hills Winery to offer guests a Sip and Saddle package that offers private and socially distanced group

outings. Upgrade the experience with a Polaris tour of Folded Hills’ grounds,

which includes a dock tasting on their private lake. alisal.com

WELLNESS 2021 • SUNSET

91

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present without running for the hills—or the refrigerator.

Tell us about the human element in that first experience.

From the outside of the arena, the

equine therapist, Marla Kuhn, guided

me through a series of breathing exer-

cises. I could feel my body anchored to the dirt floor, the desert sun beating on my face, and my palms outstretched to the universe. A melting feeling

washed over my brain. Something

started to shift. My inner critic’s voice was nowhere to be heard, and I was aware of a connection to my body,

which felt foreign. For the first time in a

long time, I wasn’t trying to change the way I felt, the way I looked, or wanting

everyone to like me. I gave myself permission to just stand still and breathe.

Riding to Renewal

You run your retreats on ranches in

Arizona, California, and Colorado. Is

How equine therapist Devon Combs works with horses to help women transform their lives.

there a healing power to the wild places of the West?

The healing power of the West is tangi-

Denver native Devon Combs knows firsthand the healing power of horses.

After struggling with depression and an eating disorder that she treated with equine gestalt therapy, the former competitive rider went on to study the practice and founded Unbridled Retreats, a company that leads inspirational workshops for women at ranches and resorts throughout the West.

We spoke with Combs about her path to purpose and serenity.

ble. Imagine sitting astride a beautiful horse, looking out as far as you can see, and taking the deepest breath

you’ve taken in years. It’s heaven on

earth. You can’t stay stuck in the West— the wide-open spaces expand your heart, clear your mind, and set your

Interview by J. D. S I M KI N S

had a profound experience with during your first equine therapy at the

What did Jack teach you about your-

out, he turned his head away from me

That horse put his face inches from my

and began to walk other way. I was

humiliated and confused. I was an ex-

perienced horsewoman and was used to being in control. Jack didn’t give a

damn about any of that. Being a prey

animal, he instantly sensed my energy as a predator. Through reading my vibrational field, he also picked up on

something I had mastered hiding over the years: being incongruent. I was

skilled in the art of acting like I was fine when on the inside I was a mess.

Jack’s feedback about my energy and

transformation.

learn from this horse.

Arizona retreat Miraval.

Strutting up toward Jack with my hand

ery, it’s the perfect backdrop for

presence was invaluable. I had a lot to

If you could offer a word of encour-

agement to those who are in a similar

self that you never knew?

chest and stood still. Jack’s hooves did not move an inch while he breathed into my heart area. A flood of sup-

pressed emotions washed over me.

There were no words, just a connection that I had been craving my whole life, with no agenda and no expectations.

As tears streamed down my face, I noticed that Jack remained present. I

was astonished the weight of my emotions had not scared him away. He

stood with me in my pain. Slowly but surely, I also began to embrace the

place as you once were, what would

“You can’t stay stuck in the West. The wideopen spaces expand your heart, clear your mind, and set your soul free.”

you say?

We so often fall into a rut while thinking what we should do. When we identify

what we truly want through taking action and trying new things, not just by

thinking about it, doors open and opportunities manifest. If you feel stuck,

keep trying new things and searching for your passion. Keep experimenting.

Don’t settle until you discover what energizes you. Trust your intuition and keep following the trail of what you

love—it will lead you to the right people and places (and horses!).

SUNSET (ISSN 0039-5404) publishes 6 issues per year in regional and special editions by Sunset Publishing Corporation, P.O. Box 15688 Beverly Hills, CA 90209. Periodicals postage paid at Oakland, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.) Nonpostal and military facilities: Send address corrections to Sunset Magazine, P.O. Box 3228, Harlan, IA 51593-0408.

Vol. 244, No. 1, Issue: FebMar 2021. Printed in U.S.A. Copyright © 2021 Sunset Publishing Corporation. All rights reserved. Member Alliance for Audited Media. Sunset, The Magazine of Western Living, The Pacific Monthly, Sunset’s Kitchen Cabinet, The Changing Western Home, and Chefs of the West are registered trademarks of Sunset Publishing Corporation. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited s ­ ubmissions.

Manuscripts, photographs, and other material submitted to P.O. Box 15688 Beverly Hills, CA 90209 can be acknowledged or returned only if accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

For 24/7 service, visit sunset.com/customerservice. You can also call 1-800-777-0117 or write to Sunset Magazine, P.O. Box 3228, Harlan, IA 51593-0408. U.S. subscriptions: $28 for one year.

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FEARLESS PHOTOGRAPHY

Tell us about Jack, the horse that you

soul free. It’s not just a change of scen-

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