Avoid Using Discounts as a Crutch to Drive Sales
I have observed that many retailers and fashion brands have fallen into the trap of constantly offering sales and discounts to their customers. While these promotions can be an effective marketing strategy to drive traffic and sales, they also have the potential to harm a brand's reputation and train customers to wait for discounts before making purchases.
The problem with sales and discounts is that they create a culture of expectation among consumers. With your brand or store constantly offering discounts, retailers and brands, you are training your loyal customers to wait for the next sale rather than paying full price for your new releases. This can lead to a decrease in the perceived value of products and ultimately harm your bottom line.
Constant discounts and sales can also damage your reputation. If customers become accustomed to seeing a brand's products on sale, they may assume that the brand is struggling or worse – that its products are not worth the full price. This is detrimental to a brand's longterm success as customers may start to associate the brand with discounts rather than quality.
While sales and discounts can be effective marketing tools, they should be used sparingly and strategically to avoid training customers holding their breath for something to go on sale. You need to build a strong brand identity of high-quality products that customers will pay full price for. Clearing old stock can be tempting, but try to focus on an annual sale rather than monthly. If you are trying to compete in a sale season
like Christmas or Black Friday – you’ve already lost your customer. There is too much noise to make it worth the damage long term.
My other advice is to not sleep on third party Personal Shoppers. Yes, they still exist and often have an existing client base of customers who are ready and willing to spend on luxury fashion items. By partnering with personal shoppers, retailers and brands can tap into this customer base and offer additional services such as private viewings and made-tomeasure options. Personal shoppers can also provide valuable feedback on the brand's products and help to build relationships with customers.
Personal shoppers can help to reduce the emphasis on discounts and sales as they prioritise quality and fit over price, which can help to shift the focus away from sales and promotions. This can be a valuable strategy for retailers and brands looking to attract high-end customers who will pay full price and not think twice.
Chanel High Jewelry
ByJulie Levoyer, Agnès MuckensturmChanel High Jewelry is a spectacular publication to celebrate ninety years since the launch of Chanel’s first fine jewellery collection in 1932.
From Gabrielle Chanel’s 1932 collection to the newest interpretations of her signature signs and symbols by Patrice
Leguéreau,Director of the CHANEL Fine Jewelry Creation Studio, CHANEL High Jewelry remains eternally modern and authentic to the spirit of her enterprise.
Rei Kawakubo: For and Against Fashion
Edited by Rex ButlerThe Japanese fashion designer, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, is undoubtedly one of the world's prominent fashion designers. The 14 essays in this collection, written by eminent fashion theorists worldwide, ask about the relationship of Kawakubo's work to art, philosophy and architecture and ultimately illustrate how Kawakubo's creative output allows us to understand the very notion of fashion itself.
Re:Fashion Wardrobe, The: Sew your own stylish, sustainable clothes
By Portia LawrieReuse and sew a sustainable capsule wardrobe tailored to youand with it, break the cycle of throw-away fashion with Portia Lawrie, leader of the Refashioners - fashion reuse pioneers. In this book, learn how to alter or completely deconstruct once-loved clothes to create edited or entirely new garments and accessories that are chic and save the planet.
The Little Book of Versace
By Laia Farran GravesFrom Elizabeth Hurley's safety pin dress to Jennifer Lopez's plunging green gown, Versace has always been a brand at the cutting edge of fashion. With a foot firmly placed in pop culture, Versace is beloved by fashionistas and celebrities alike, providing iconic moments like Lil Nas X's gold armour at the 2021 Met Gala, many of Elton John's eclectic tour outfits and the gown worn by Lady Diana in her posthumous tribute in Harper's Bazaar.
Exquisitely illustrated and expertly written, this book explores the brand's story, from its creation in 1978 by Gianni Versace to its iconic status today. Featuring images of red-carpet moments, key pieces and stunning catwalk shows, this is a fabulous collection of all things Versace.
WHAT MATTERS MOST TO ONLINE SHOPPERS THIS HOLIDAY SEASON
With the holiday season around the corner, Cisco AppDynamics has revealed the importance online shoppers are attaching to seamless digital experiences as they hunt down great deals during the holiday period.
Consumers have come to rely on applications and digital services for almost every aspect of their lives and they’ve now become far more discerning about what makes an incredible digital experience. 78 percent of consumers regard the experience they get when using a shopping app as equally important as the deals on offer during seasonal sales and key shopping dates such as Black Friday, Cyber Monday, or Singles Day.
While 73 percent claim it doesn’t matter how good the deals are that retailers offer, there is still no excuse for poor online shopping experiences.
The findings serve as a timely reminder for retailers about the importance of application availability and performance at a time when they are looking to take advantage of heightened demand during what is, by far and away, the busiest time of year for most brands.
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R.M. WILLIAMS ANNOUNCES A
NEW BRAND STRATEGY
R.M. Williams has released a new brand strategy to enhance its products’ quality, durability, and sustainability. Investing in the future of sustainability, R.M. Williams’ new long-term strategy, ‘Crafted for Life,’ will focus on ethical and local manufacturing.
Nicola Forrest AO, R.M. Williams Owner and Director, said that the inspiration for this commitment came from R.M. William himself. When the brand was founded 90 years ago, he vowed to make boots that would last longer.
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ASICS AND P.E NATION LAUNCH FOOTWEAR COLLABORATION
After a successful footwear collaboration earlier this year, sports performance brand ASICS, and Australian label, P.E nation, have dropped another innovative footwear collection.
The retro-inspired collection is an ode to ASICS' sports heritage, incorporating P.E Nation's trademark bold colourways and prints on the iconic ASICS Sportstyle GELQUANTUM 180 VII sneaker, giving the shoe a street-style feel.
It is available in either the Pink Glo/Black or Ivory/Black colourway.
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RAF SIMONS CLOSES NAMESAKE LABEL AFTER 27 YEARS
Belgian designer Raf Simons is shutting down his namesake brand after 27 years.
In an Instagram post, he shared that his brand’s spring/ summer 2023 collection will be its very last.
“I lack the words to share how proud I am of all that we have achieved. I am grateful for the incredible support from my team, from my collaborators, from the press and buyers, from my friends and family, and from our devoted fans and loyal followers.”
The Raf Simons label has been influential in menswear. It is credited with the popularisation of the late nineties slimfitting suit. Simons’ graphic-heavy collections were also pivotal for blurring the boundaries between streetwear and high-end clothing.
For his final show, Simons has invited more than 1,000 guests to Printworks, a clubbing venue in south-east London.
Simons will continue working as the co-creative director of Prada, a role he has held since 2020. He has previously held roles at Calvin Klein, Dior and Jil Sander.
NEW MATERNITY CAMPAIGN: ‘WE SEE YOU, WARRIOR’
Australian maternity brand Cake Maternity has launched a new campaign aimed at showcasing the realities of motherhood on social media. The “We See You, Warrior” campaign encourages mothers to share unfiltered moments on Instagram to build a supportive community.
Cake Maternity has a no photoshopping policy and is working with birth photographer Dania Lauren to capture mothers in their most intimate moments. Tracey Montford, founder of Cake Maternity, said the campaign was about reminding mothers that “they are doing their best, which is incredible.”
March 8th marks International Women's Day and to celebrate, we are spotlighting influential women working in the fashion and beauty industry.
Owner of her namesake womenswear label, Caitlin Crisp has been sewing since she was 12 years old. Surrounded by positive role models in both business and fashion, Crisp was encouraged to follow her dreams of becoming a fashion designer.
“It's something I had dreamed of and worked toward since I was around 12, a passion that I got from my late grandmother,” she explained.
Crisp’s journey into the fashion industry was slow and organic. She described herself as the classic example of taking 10 years to become an overnight success. After studying fashion in high school and university, Crisp moved to Auckland and worked in fashion retail. She entered Project Runway, which pushed her to make oneoff pieces and complete alterations for
Dame Denise L’Estrange-Corbet is arguably one of the most influential names in New Zealand Fashion. With an illustrious career of more than thirty years as the creative force behind WORLD, Dame Denise has come a long way since her upbringing in London.
Dame Denise attended evening classes for dressmaking as a teenager in the United Kingdom, and in particular enjoyed the creative process of making something from nothing.
“To watch a garment unfold into 3D from a 2D sketch is quite amazing, and not as easy as one might think. When you have a creative personality, you have to have an outlet, whatever that may be, some have more than one creative outlet.”
After finishing school, Dame Denise would go into office work. Although
customers at the store she worked at.
“That grew a little busier so I started putting small runs of my designs into production, while working in retail part-time and nannying in the evenings. Those runs got a little bigger and we started stocking at fashion retailers.”
Fast forward a couple years, Crisp now designs clothing full-time with her team of five.
Crisp continues to look up to Deval Boutique’s Debbie Lawson, who she worked for during her first internship in the fashion industry.
“She is an incredible lady. She brings so much joy to those around her and is extremely talented at what she does.”
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For the last decade, Kate Berry has been the company director and managing director of Huffer, a unisex brand with 15 stores across New Zealand and Melbourne. Her journey into the fashion and retail industry began after working in FMCG for 14 years.
She joined Huffer at a time when the business needed extra support, helping the company to create a strategic plan for growth. Although Berry found her role tough initially as she lacked industry experience, she was able to gain a wealth of industry knowledge by learning from the bottom up through unpacking boxes, attending product development meetings, touching garments and listening to experienced professionals.
“I found it difficult to navigate at times as the business was still quite small back then. However, I surrounded myself
she was earning good money, she was bored with the office environment.
She later attended the London College of Fashion, which is now known as the University of the Arts London, as a full-time student for two years. She admits that she did not know exactly what it would entail, but she was a fast learner.
“I made some horrific outfits but made some wonderful friends that I still keep in touch with today, we laugh about what we created now, but it's all a learning curve.”
After her studies, she got a job working for the late Scott Crolla, whom she describes as ‘the darling of Dover Street in the 80s.’
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with experts and learnt from them. This experience allowed me to develop a huge amount of resilience and now I have an immense passion for what I do.”
Berry also leaned on her transferable skills attained from working in FMCG, utilising her strengths in structure and strategic plan to help Huffer expand.
She continues to look up to other successful brands and retailers in the clothing industry for inspiration. As she is involved in the day to day of fashion, seeing and hearing success stories from other companies helps to motivate her to give her all to Huffer.
“We also have an incredibly talented team at Huffer. Our success comes from them. They are the reason why I enjoy my job so much and why I come to work.”
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Dame Denise L’Estrange-Corbet Caitlin CrispLisette Godinez has always been fascinated by what motivates people to do the things that they do - including why they decide to purchase certain products, follow a certain lifestyle, or stay loyal to particular brands.
“Marketing is understanding the psychology behind consumer behaviour and this is what naturally led me to study and pursue a career in marketing.”
Now a marketing chapter member at The Warehouse Group, Godinez remains passionate about contributing to the success and growth of an organisation, understanding customer needs, and formulating marketing strategies to meet those needs.
Her path into marketing began when she worked as a communications coordinator for professional beauty and haircare brand, Zotos International,
After spending a decade as a florist, Sophie Cooper remembers that one of her favourite floristry jobs was for a woman who also owned a soap manufacturing business. Seizing the opportunity to also sell soaps and bath bombs alongside flowers, Cooper quickly fell in love with beauty products.
When she was eight months pregnant with her child and about to go on maternity leave, Cooper’s boss decided to sell her soap making business. She jokingly suggested to her husband that they purchase the business, which eventually led her to have a new baby and a new business, a few months later.
“I’ve always loved creating beautiful things and bringing joy to people. I think the simple act of self care is so important for our well-being,” said
after graduation. Godinez worked in communications for two years before deciding to change paths. Taking on a new role as the associate international marketing manager, she quickly realised that marketing was her calling.
Alongside working full-time, she enriched her knowledge of the marketing industry by completing a Master’s in Business Administration. Godinez collaborated closely with international customers, regularly travelling around the world to gain first-hand knowledge about the export business, including to Latin America, Asia and eventually to New Zealand.
Cooper.
During the first year and a half of operating the soap business, Cooper was a contract manufacturer. However, she decided to create her own brand, “Ahhh”, which was named after the sound people make when they get in the bath to relax at the end of the day. In 2021, Cooper rebranded Ahhh to “anihana”, which was her daughter’s middle name and her husband’s late mother’s maiden name.
An important motivator for Cooper is bringing joy into the everyday with anihana’s products. She also noted that promoting sustainable processes is another important motivator.
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Jennifer Del Bel has been making candles for over a decade. Her first candle company was Illumina, before she opened Downlights, a soy candle company and social enterprise that supports young adults with Down syndrome and intellectual or learning disabilities.
The idea for Downlights came to Del Bel four years ago when she was introduced to a family who were struggling to find employment for their daughter with Down syndrome.
“Not one company would return their email or phone call. This deeply affected me. I was at a turning point in my life and I decided to completely change my business model,” said Del Bel.
Utilising her intellectual property, contacts and manufacturing experience she had obtained from Illumina, Del Bel started Downlights with the objective of
supporting the development of workplace skills for young adults with disabilities.
During Downlights’ first year of operation, she met Grace Stratton and Dr. Robbie Francis Watene, who guided Del Bel through the steps of learning to advocate for the Downlights crew. She also worked with Amy and Sheridan from Recreate, who helped to support her through every learning curve.
“The parents of the Downlights crew were also incredibly supportive and worked closely with me to develop the best work environment for their children to thrive.”
Del Bel said that her biggest motivation is seeing the personal milestones that her Downlights crew achieve every day.
Kowtow is a Wellington-based label that is proud to produce clothing that has sustainability in mind. The woman behind this initiative is Gosia Piatek, the founder of Kowtow.
Despite making a name for herself in the industry, Piatek admits that she was not drawn to fashion originally, and was more inclined to want to start a business which created social and environmental change for the better.
“I felt that wearing clothing was a basic need, so why not try and stir some change within fashion.”
Having started Kowtow sixteen years ago, she has performed in every role needed for the business. She has been a dispatcher, a seller, a producer, and a designer, and now has grown her company to 45 staff. She no longer works in the office full time, having
During Natalie Procter’s last year of her fashion degree, she travelled to India on a Prime Minister’s Scholarship. For Procter, her six week seed-to-garment trip was not only eye-opening, but a key turning point in her life and career.
“The experience made me think ‘do I get out of this industry, which appears to be doing nothing good for people or the planet, or do I get into this industry to do things differently and with intention?”
She chose to go with the latter and Procter’s experience in India continues to be the “why” behind everything that she does.
To get stuck into the fashion industry, she interned with a number of local
fashion brands in Wellington and Auckland. This experience gave Procter insight into the reality of opening her own brand, which was always a dream of hers.
She now owns and is the creative director of Mina, an Auckland-based fashion label that is committed to producing long-lasting and sustainable clothing that also supports local businesses.
Even if Procter was given a chance to start over, she would not change anything about her journey into the fashion industry.
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moved back to Prague with her family recently.
She started Kowtow from a burning desire in her heart to do good and admits she wanted to disrupt an industry and shine a positive light on how things could have been done better.
“I chose the fashion industry and we have worked with our amazing Indian partners to make clothing within a Fairtrade and organic cotton-certified supply chain.”
When speaking of her biggest inspirations, Piatek says that Greta Thunberg’s advocacy has been a big influence, especially the spotlight she has shined on climate change.
Innovation manager at Essano Beauty, Marissa Kan knew from a young age that she wanted to work in the beauty industry. After observing her mum’s makeup and skincare rituals, Kan was inspired by the power of skincare and beauty products, particularly its ability to make people feel confident in their own skin. She also feels that the beauty industry is constantly evolving with new trends and technological developments, making it an exciting and fast-paced industry to work in.
Kan’s journey to working in beauty and skincare began after graduating university, where she was accepted into a graduate programme with Daymon Worldwide, private consultants for Progressive Enterprises, which is now Woolworths New Zealand. Her experience in the graduate programme was invaluable as it provided Kan insight
into all aspects of Woolworths’ business, beginning her love affair for product development.
To further her knowledge about the beauty industry, Kan also completed a makeup artistry course in her evenings after work. This led Kan to obtain a role with leading U.K health and beauty retailer, Superdrug, combining her passion for product development and beauty.
During her time at Superdrug, she played a key role in launching a brand new beauty brand called B, which boasted over 300 SKUs in over 830 stores. She also worked with a number of cult beauty brands like Liz Earle and Guerlain. Kan’s wealth of experience eventually led her to join Essano Beauty.
as usual BUSINESS
The beginning of 2020 signalled the downfall of workwear. It seemed like overnight we traded in our blazers and Italian wool trousers for a pair of sweatpants. Fortunately we have come full circle again and consumers are phasing out of this lethargic period.
For this issue we dive into the postpandemic workwear and how we are revisiting traditional suiting. This first look by Benjamin Benmoyal is from their Fall RTW 2023 collection, trending in this space is a vertical stripe and the wool textures similar to Terry Apparel’s Mara 6-369.
The next piece in our lineup is from Anna Kiki’s Fall RTW 2023 collection and boasts a strong silhouette that is a great example of statement wardrobe pieces that consumers are looking for. Dramatic, bold and cropped. Cropped jackets and blazers are rapidly inclining and making an appearance in collections across the globe.
Don’t be afraid to include some loud patterns in your range like this look by
Threads available from
Benetton. Revisiting a traditional blazer with a colour print is a statement piece that works with a wide range of styles. The lavender is very popular at the moment in a hue like Terry Apparel’s Mara 8-158.
Camel colourways don’t tend to date and have always been a traditional hue for timeless tailored pieces such as the iconic trench coat. This two piece look in a colour like Terry Apparel’s Mara 5-307, has a redesign on the shoulders creating a new point of interest. Unique pattern making like this can transform an otherwise normal garment into something truly eye-catching.
Hop on the bandwagon, everyone is going neon like this look from Luisa Spagnoli. First was zoomer green, now a bright hazardous yellow like Terry Apparel’s Mara 1-106. Surely to stop anyone in their tracks, this look brings back flared trousers but dressing a formal workwear look down with a casual singlet.
Last but not least is a military meets traditional suiting by CHB’s
latest runway for Fall 2023. Mixing in oversized pockets with zips and elongated rope, these cargo pants are a fresh take on wool trousers for the office. We especially enjoy the sleeveless button up shirt in a hue close to Terry Apparel’s Mara 10-5096.
BENJAMIN BENMOYALINDIGO & PROVISIONS
He began his journey in buying after working as an assistant with the owners of Meet Bernard, a Londonbased boutique. Now, the owner of his very own, Ellett keeps an eye out for brands that have a strong narrative, or strongly prioritises sustainable and ethical production.
“Brands that jump from one microtrend to the next are a no-go,” noted Ellett.
Located in Christchurch, Indigo & Provisions stocks high-quality contemporary clothing. While the boutique has clothing tailored traditionally for men and women, Ellett operates with the philosophy that all clothing is unisex. Rather than following trends, he opts for pieces that are seasonally appropriate, with a focus on stocking workwear and streetwear.
“We have core items, like Chore coats and Selvedge Denim, but I also love to experiment with styles that don't necessarily fit in those categories and instead complement them.”
Not only does Ellett actively avoid micro-trends but also garments made from synthetic fibres, unless they are made from recycled polyester or nylon.
A point of difference at Indigo & Provisions is their ability to build a great level of intimacy with their customers - providing genuine and personalised service, while directly sharing and advocating the brand's message.
“We also get real-time feedback from customers, which informs the buying process a lot more than just looking at numbers on a spreadsheet,” added Ellett.
His top advice for brands looking to differentiate themselves is to prioritise organisation.
“A well-presented line sheet, clear photos of samples and a transparent production timeline will make you stand out.”
The best way to get in touch with Ellett and Indigo & Provisions is by filling out the contact form on indigoandprovisions.com
Dominic Ellett“Iactively seek out brands that are otherwise unavailable in New Zealand, with a strong focus on high-quality textiles and construction,” said Dominic Ellett, the owner and primary buyer for his small independent boutique, Indigo & Provisions.
SLY AND COMPANY
Louise Sly has always looked for products with a point of difference – products that customers wouldn’t find in another store. After many years of working in workrooms and retail in the fashion industry, her business, Sly and Company, was born. With a love of art, design, and textiles, Sly offered a new range of natural fibres, reworked garments, and vintage and recycled clothing.
The importance of mindful and ethical consumption is at the heart of Sly and Company, and Sly strives to balance her love of fashion design with sustainable materials. She delivers garments and accessories with a style, quality, and individuality that will continue to give for many years.
“I'm more inclined to focus on New Zealand-made products. I love the way my customers are so considerate in their buying choices, and if they actually need it, I love this as it aligns with my own like-minded values,” Sly explained.
Sly believes garments should be wearable all year round, and she works to offer clothing that can be layered and styled in different ways in any season.
“I believe fashion should be inclusive, including pricing, so I look to offer a variety of price points to include
different buyer budgets.”
Helping to create a circular wardrobe, Sly works on ranges that include recycled and up-cycled clothing, and at the same time, this provides customers with a more budget-friendly shopping experience.
This season, Sly is excited to give multi-coloured garments, fluro, handmade, and bespoke items made to tell a great story. As Covid has altered the industry to focus on more local products and fast fashion is declining, Sly strives for a larger online presence and to collaborate with different makers and artists.
“I can only hope that running my own brand and having run retail stores, has given me a good understanding of the needs and wants of the customer, the maker, and the retailer.”
For more information, visit slyandcompany.com
Louise SlyRECREATE
Originally from Europe, Marielle Van De Ven came to New Zealand in 2011, having been awarded a scholarship through iD Fashion. With some experience under her belt both locally and from Europe, Van De Ven made the decision to leave the fashion industry as she knew it.
“Ino longer wanted to contribute towards the negative impacts often caused by garment production. As the creative director of ReCreate, we are paving the way towards an industry that I’m proud to be a part of.”
ReCreate is an accidental clothing brand, only beginning to provide fair employment for women in the marginalised community of Dey Tmey Cambodia. Since meeting the women, Van De Ven saw what a major issue lack of employment was, with only limited opportunities such as washing clothes or selling food.
In 2013, the ReCreate sewing workshop was born with the goal in mind of empowering women to provide for their families, gain lifelong skills, and embrace hope for a better future.
ReCreate is set apart from other fashion labels for the difference and purpose it has in the modern fashion industry.
“The vision of ReCreate is to transform the lives of the people who make our clothing. Through the ReCreate workshop in Cambodia, we provide fair employment and individualised training for our team, not only sewing but also literacy, budgeting and personal development.”
The label has also partnered with selected producers in Cambodia, who not only meet the ethical standards of ReCreate, but who positively impact
the lives of their makers through purposeful vocation and care.
“We’re not about ticking boxes but we want to see real changes. We want to make sure that every single person in our supply chain is valued and cared for, treated with love and respect,” said Van De Ven.
Her personal design focus has been influenced by designs that transcend time and that last a lifetime, but that also doesn’t go out of fashion. She said that she prefers to work with minimal colours and the use of strong patterns or prints.
“When designing our garments we begin with the end in mind, so that all garments are fully recyclable through our circularity model. We only use organic and natural fabrics, and all convenience items such as zippers have been replaced with sustainable alternatives such as recycled cotton buttons.”
Van De Ven would like to encourage aspiring designers to join the fashion industry, but to be mindful of the wider impact of the fashion industry.
“If it can’t be reduced, repaired, rebuilt, refinished, resold, recycled or composted, then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production.”
Van De Ven said that continuing to create change is important to her, and that helping to pave the way for empowerment in the fashion industry is a goal in mind for the foreseeable future.
BINKS
Binks is an eco-friendly fashion label made entirely in New Zealand, committed to providing ethical and quality items of clothing. Specialising in silk apparel, Binks founder Brittany McLeod says that the idea stemmed from the influence of her mum, and the handmade clothes she used to make.
“Witnessing this firsthand instilled in me a deep appreciation for the artistry and dedication that goes into creating a single garment. There were times when the clothing my mum made for me didn't quite suit my taste,” said McLeod.
“I vividly recall one particular outfit: a skirt and matching vest made of silk fabric that featured an eye pattern.
To be honest,
it frightened me a little, but I kept my feelings to myself and wore it proudly, fully aware of the effort and dedication that went into crafting it just for me. This memory marks my earliest recollection of developing my own sense of style.”
Having adopted the desire to be in the fashion industry whilst in high school, McLeod found herself enrolled in sewing classes and developing a love for designing. Fuelling her creativity from the work of others, she decided to avoid completing any formal education in fashion design.
“When I finished high school, fashion design wasn't a topic of discussion, and options were limited to taking a gap year or enrolling in university. The notion of pursuing a trade, starting a career, or capitalizing on creative skills were not on the table” said McLeod.
“Consequently, I decided to pursue a degree in media and communications at the University of Canterbury and while pursuing my degree, fashion design took a backseat. Upon completing my studies, I secured my first 'real' job, embarked on a year of travel, and eventually landed my dream job managing my favourite boutique store.”
As fate would have it, her lust for fashion was reignited just as the COVID-19 pandemic hit. Made redundant and confused with the situation, McLeod took matters into her own hands and launched Binks.
A big connection between McLeod and her label is that she makes the clothes that she would want to wear, uses the materials she likes, and sources them appropriately as she sees fit.
“As a conscious consumer who appreciates bold, exaggerated cuts and bright colours I found it extremely difficult to find clothing that aligned with my values while serving my personal style. When I shop I seek apparel produced in New Zealand, crafted from eco-friendly materials, and that reflects my identity.”
She prides herself on designing sustainable garments with her personal flare of creativity. Drawn to the plant, hemp, McLeod was surprised to find it is not widely utilised within the fashion industry. This added to the motivation to create the ideal label in her opinion.
“At Binks, our unique selling proposition is our main emphasis on utilising hemp silk fabrics for high fashion, setting us apart from other fashion labels. We do our best to bring a sense of fun and joy into the sustainable fashion sector by using colour and pushing the boundaries with unique cuts.”
McLeod said there is no exact time that people should start their own brands, and that there is no better time than the present. Knowing firsthand how the designing element is only one side of the brand, she says that currently marketing and social media are just as important.
With the goal of expanding the brand in her mind, McLeod said that she also aims to make hemp silk high-fashion more accessible is also a hurdle she would like to face.
“The fashion industry can be cutthroat, but finding ways to collaborate and support others can be more fulfilling and lead to greater success in the long run.”
SKECHERS COLLABORATes WITH RENOWNED INDUSTRY ICON
Skechers has just launched its new footwear and apparel collection with industry icon, Diane von Furstenberg.
The Skechers collaboration with the Belgian-born designer launches the Endless Kisses capsule, featuring the timeless DVF “Lips” print. The footwear range includes Skechers Uno and Skechers D'Lites fashion sneakers, Skechers Max Cushioning Elite running footwear, and the Hyper Slide recovery Sandal.
A celebration of effortless style, the Skechers x DVF collaboration's fashionforward design combines the designer's signature prints and bold colours with the unparalleled comfort of Skechers.
“As a woman on the go and a passionate hiker, I'm excited to launch our collaboration with Skechers, a leader in comfort innovation,” commented
Diane von Furstenberg.
“This empowering offering is designed for those who push boundaries, challenge the norms and inspire others.”
Leggings, shorts, a racerback longline bra and a tee constitute the collaboration's apparel offering. Wearers can easily transition from working out to hanging out due to the comfort innovations and breathable materials used in the collection.
“With the fashionable yet easy and affordable sneaker and activewear apparel collection, this collaboration will allow the women to be in charge of her life and of her health”, added co-chairman of Diane von Furstenberg, Talita von Furstenberg.
“This is our first coordinating apparel and footwear collaboration, and our partnership with CVF offers an expressive 'wow factor' that illustrates to women how Skechers has the range to offer a complete and comfortable look that she'll love to wear
throughout her busy day,” said Skechers' senior vice president of global product, Kathy Kartalis.
Skechers x DVF's Endless Kisses footwear and apparel capsule is now available. Additional designs featuring other iconic CVF prints will arrive later this year.
BRONWYN COLLECTION FOUR
New Zealand designed and ethically-made footwear brand, Bronwyn, has released its "Collection Four" for Autumn/Winter 2023.
Bronwyn's Creative Director, Sarah Street, makes waves in New Zealand footwear design with her captivating exploration of proportion and balance. Featuring a sharp curation of wardrobe staples like winter boots and flats
ideal for the upcoming cooler months, her minimalist designs are essential to every modern wardrobe.
"I believe we are seeing a focused shift into footwear that offers elevation but also has the practical qualities of comfort that flat shoes allow, that perfect blend of comfort
and aesthetics," remarked Street.
Collection Four demonstrates Bronwyn's commitment to a simplicity refined aesthetic. Sleek square toes, figure-hugging silhouettes and elongated leg shafts are peppered throughout the collection, alongside western nods and elevated outsoles. Unique heel designs and subtle details like triple-row stitching and double rands lift each piece, providing
comfort for even the highest heels.
The collection is coloured with latte, rosewater and chocolate hues, creating a gentle and warm palette inspired by Cy Twombly's Ferragosto series. Another hallmark of Collection Four is stretched leather, which Street has developed to establish a sleek and snug fit on a multitude of leg shapes.
BEE LINE AND TIMBERLAND RELEASE NINTH COLLABORATION
Bee Line by Billionaire Boys Club and Timberland have reunited to release their ninth collaboration.
CONVERSE DEBUTS RADIATING LOVE COLLECTION
Converse released a Radiating Love collection, which aims to celebrate romantic love, friendship and admiration.
From platforms to classics, this collection features eight desirable styles complete with details of gold chains, embroidered hearts and cherry red sparkle finishes, complete on a backdrop of soft pink hues.
Converse's latest iteration of its best-selling Run Star Legacy CX is sure to elevate any outfit, with its durable canvas uppers and
lightweight CX cushioning for comfort.
Established in 1908, Converse Inc is recognised as a brand for selfexpression across cultures and all around the globe. The adoption and interpretation of its iconic sneakers like the Chuck Taylor All Star, the One Star and Jack Purcell have occurred across decades.
Dropping on March 23, the new collection celebrates the cultural impact of Timberland's iconic six-inch boot with its debut of the Bee Line x Timberland 6" Rubber Toe Boot, in Wheat, Black and Red colourways.
The red colourway specifically pays homage to the 2014 "Crimson" style, which was limited to just 300 pairs across the world.
With both men's and women's sizes available, these waterproof boots are constructed with premium nubuck leather, rubber toe caps and overlays, which add extra protection against the elements.
True to both brands' commitment to responsible design, the boots also feature TimberDry waterproof linings made of 50 percent recycled plastic and ReBOTL fabric linings, which also contain at least 50 percent recycled plastic.
Accompanying the
selection of boots is allgender apparel that juxtaposes Timberland's outdoor heritage with its integration of abstract Bee Line iconography, created by New York based artist, Shaun Crawford. The apparel also features responsible materials like ReBOTL fabric, 100 percent organically grown cotton and recycled polyester.
The collection's editorial was shot by Aijani Payne, in New York's gorgeous Central Park, celebrating the beauty of the great outdoors in our own neighbourhoods and backyards.
Billionaire Boys Club was founded by Pharrell Williams, specialising in clothing and accessories that blend streetwear and luxury.
Timberland is an outdoor and work inspired brand based in New Hampshire, famous for its original yellow work boot, which debuted in 1973.
WINTER BOOTS AT KACHOROVSKA
Inspired by outerwear staples, the family-run Ukrainian brand offers unique style and quality,
having mastered the design, craftsmanship, and manufacturing of shoes since 1957.
Kachorovska's new footwear range features waterproof heightened protection, available in classic colours, black and milk. Made from products produced in Ukraine with Italian materials, the brand's winter boots are of high-quality leather.
BALLETCORE
What’s Selling?
Though not yet as commercialized as its fellow “cores,” the sell out data proves that the delicate, feminine aesthetic has struck a chord with consumers. Products boasting everyday appeal, such as ballet flats, have seen steady success alongside wrap knits and cardigans, and pink and white bodysuits, which support the Pink Pilates Princess sister trend. Meanwhile, the highest YoY sales increase is driven by the on-the-nose references such as arm and legwarmers and tulle skirts or tutus, indicating early adoption status. (fig. 1) Should You Invest?
What’s Actually Selling When Everything Is Trending?
Unpacking the success of Balletcore, Bikercore, Normcore and Gorpcore with considerations for future assortments.
Hyperfemininity is poised to be the underpinning trend in 2023, putting ballerina aesthetics front and center for the year. Plus, its strong runway presence indicates it’s only just getting warmed up. Ribbons and bows have emerged as a key detail for designers, cementing tie-front tops for SS23, which can be refreshed with floral corsages for FW23. The traditional baby pastel colorway will hold firm. However, directional retailers can tap into the darker hues creeping through, repositioning the trend as the grungier Ballerina Sleaze aesthetic –think corsets, frilly skirts and crochet.
BIKERCORE
What’s Selling?
The subculture, which counts Kim Kardashian and Rosalía as fans, has been part of consumer lexicons for almost a year, helping boost demand for accompanying products. Leather trousers for men moved well at Zara and Reserved, while for women, sell outs outpaced mini skirts by 56 percent. As interest in footwear swings back to favor smarter and more glamorous silhouettes, the number of biker boots selling out of majority SKUs over the past three months dwindled by 28 percent YoY.
(fig. 2)
Should You Invest?
Bikercore is yet to peak, with leather becoming more commonplace for spring assortments. At the end of 2022, it was predicted that the moto jacket would be the hero piece of SS23. Over the past three months, this style saw the highest increase in sell outs YoY across the Bikercore assortment. The recent men’s shows also showed a shift toward cleaner racing styles over traditional biker jackets, as seen at Hermès. For women’s pre-fall, lace overtook leather as the standout material, suggesting the
trend may run out of steam toward the end of the year for this market. While sell outs recently lagged for biker boots across both genders, they were a staple for menswear designers at FW23, so trend-led retailers will want to keep them
in circulation.
NORMCORE
What’s Selling?
A stripped-back aesthetic has made a quiet comeback amid the post-pandemic buzz, fuelling demand for the OG “core” popularized by unfussy wardrobe staples and 90s nostalgia. Straight-leg jeans
are continuing to sell well, especially in womenswear. However, this iteration of Normcore will be defined by baggy silhouettes, which outpaced straight fits by 27 percent. A major departure from Normcore’s first era, white sneakers are dropping off consumer’s radar, registering a 17 percent decline in sell outs YoY. (fig. 3)
Should You Invest?
A 70 percent likelihood for a recession in the US in 2023 is predicted, while UK spending power is expected to fall even further this year. Fashion mirrors the social and economic landscape, with a shift away from Alessandro Michele’s signature maximalism following his departure from Gucci being a sign of the times. Minimalism received a smarter, cozier facelift in menswear in the form of relaxed tailored styles with textured layers and oversized proportions, such as long top coats and chunky knits. For women, nods to the 90s will overtake Y2K references, focusing on bandeau dresses, branded tees and minimal accessories to create a clean, pared-back aesthetic –just don’t call it “Recessioncore.”
GORPCORE
What’s Selling?
A stalwart trend for several seasons, Gorpcore styles have maintained a strong performance at mass retailers. Cargo pants are the ubiquitous standout of the utilitarian uniform, registering a 126 percent increase in majority SKU sell outs YoY. While skirt versions emerged as a hot product, trousers outsold them seven-fold. Despite a slow start to winter, puffy and quilted jackets rose in popularity, while sell outs of fleeces noted a more minor sales increase YoY. Sell outs for hiker boots jumped less than 4 percent in line with the 2023 footwear trends to watch, calling out trail sneakers as an outdoor-friendly replacement. (fig. 4)
Should You Invest?
Gorpcore showed signs of slowing down on the men’s runway. Designers instead moved the trend in a more military-inspired direction, favoring MA-1 bombers and aviator coats. The appearance of cargos at both Pre-Fall 2023 and Fall 2023 runways secured continued demand for this silhouette,
which was showcased with camo print and technical pockets with zips and poppers. The supporting grunge themes point to the trend evolving into a more dystopian-fuelled aesthetic, timely as the post-apocalyptic series The Last of Us reaches viral success. Refresh your assortment with a workwear influence on boots, jackets and overshirts alongside relaxed check shirting.
ANNE AND LUCY AITCHISON DOROTHY
Behind Dorothy, a one-off and custom New Zealand knitwear label is the mother and daughter duo, Anne and Lucy Aitchison.
Their label began with a single phone call made on a chilly morning in 2017. After seeing a growing number of small, local hand-made businesses on Instagram, Lucy pitched to her mother, Anne, the idea to blend her design background and Anne's prolific knitting skills to create their own label.
"I knew she had always liked the idea of designing clothing and I'd seen the fab piece she'd knitted in the eighties," added Lucy.
Anne had spent her younger years making her own clothing and learning to knit. Despite wanting to studying fashion design, she was instead encouraged to pursue a different career direction. However, making wearable art remained a strong creative outlet for Anne, so when Lucy suggested her idea, she was up to growing a business together.
Their label Dorothy specialises in creating unique knitwear designs, often working with the customer to create something that is uniquely their own. All of their garments are made by hand, by Anne, alongside a couple of her friends who help out from time to time, using ethically-sourced New Zealand mohair wool.
"Hand-knitting for me is such a relaxing and creative process, I love creating things that make people happy. I also cherish that I get to collaborate on something with my daughter through pooling our ideas and employing our individual strengths," noted Anne.
The duo finds inspiration for their designs from a variety of places.
For Lucy, the primary designer for Dorothy, she often gets ideas from her physical landscape, including nature, architecture, art and design.
For Anne, Dorothy's main knitter, she finds inspiration from old knitting books and the colours and textures of the natural yarns used in their garments.
Their advice for anyone who is interested in starting their own fashion business is to utilise Instagram and social media.
"It's an easy way to start small and build a following. It is exciting as it gives anyone who creates the ability to build a brand, with very little financial risk," explained the duo.
Looking forward, they hope to continue creating hand-made and custom pieces for Dorothy's customers.
"Our business is small and I can't see that it would be any other way. Hopefully, people can continue to appreciate knitwear that is made lovingly by hand so that we can keep doing this for years to come," concluded Anne.
Their label Dorothy specialises in creating unique knitwear designs, often working with the customer to create something that is uniquely their own. All of their garments are made by hand, by Anne, alongside a couple of her friends who help out from time to time, using ethicallysourced New Zealand mohair wool.
CAMILLE PALOMA WALTON
Based on the Kapiti Coast, and doing what she loves most, Camille Paloma Walton designs jewellery in an artistic and expressive style.
Based on the Kapiti Coast, and doing what she loves most, Camille Paloma Walton designs jewellery in an artistic and expressive style.
After studying contemporary jewellery design at Whitireia Polytechnic, it was a long road from graduating to designing. Walton worked as a nanny for five years, and it wasn’t until 2020 that she would quit her job, build a studio, and dedicate all her attention to her brand.
Walton always knew she wanted to pursue a creative career, but admits she did not set out to create a label.
“I made work I enjoyed myself and was very lucky that other people seemed to also enjoy it also, which allowed me to grow it into a business.
“I believe what sets me apart is the sense of exploration in my work, I like to make sure I am always playing and growing my ideas. I treat it like an art form rather than just a business. I like to address each piece like a little sculpture and consider the gemstones as if I was a painter.”
With the ability to attract inspiration from various places, Walton said she likes to put her spin on traditional forms throughout her creative process.
“I very rarely start with sketches, instead I dive straight in and play with the materials I have. It can be quite a chaotic process which I find amusing since jewellery is so precious and delicate and the chaos isn't often seen in the piece.”
Some of Walton’s items were featured in the recent Lord of the Rings spin-off series; The Rings of Power, which was an exciting opportunity for her. She told Apparel Magazine that her biggest pride comes from being asked to make a piece for a special occasion, such as weddings and anniversaries.
“Whether that is an engagement, to represent the loss of a loved one or a piece to celebrate new life, these are the moments where I feel really proud of what I do.”
Walton enjoys showcasing her jewellery at exhibitions for collections and said that she aspires to make her pieces more global.
GILLIAN BOUCHER ORBA SHOES
For Orba's co-founder, Gillian Boucher, footwear is a necessity of daily life that is largely overlooked when discussing the environmental impact of the processes and materials used in fashion production. Each year nearly 25 billion shoes are produced, made from plastics, synthetics, and petroleum-based rubbers – materials that last in landfill for up to thousands of years and pollute and water environments with microplastics.
Orba was created to combat this gap in the footwear market. With the intention of sustainability and, as Boucher explained, a desire to set a new benchmark for what is possible when selecting and curating materials for footwear. Initially founded by Marshall Westlake, the “grandfather” of the Indonesian footwear industry, and Kapiti-based entrepreneur Greg Howard, Boucher came on board in mid-2020 as co-founder and sustainability advisor. After years of development, sourcing materials and components that meet their criteria of low-impact and plantbased materials, the Orba “Ghost” was released in September 2021 to the New Zealand market. Boucher was inspired to
create the Orba “Ghost” by adopting a minimalist design philosophy reminiscent of early court-style sneakers, focusing on highlighting the flax canvas material they had developed. Orba has also created a bespoke bio-sole made from natural rubber, rice husk ash, soybean wax, and pine tree resin – plant-based and highperformance.
“The Ghost is a nod to those timeless silhouettes but re-imagined with plantbased materials,” described Boucher.
Before selling their first pair of shoes, Orba committed to investing in smaller suppliers in order to grow their production while keeping the methods of manufacturing traditional and ethical. Initially, two of their suppliers were “uncertified” simply because they could not afford the accreditation required to recognise their already organic and ethical production. In working with these small Balinese suppliers, Orba was able to help them grow more sustainably and efficiently on a pathway to future certification.
Orba has already become recognised in their field, winning a Global Footwear Award in 2021. Two months later, they won the Sustainable Product Design Award at the Design Institute of NZ Best Design Awards.
“These awards and Orba’s B Corp certification endorse the unique worldfirst approach to design and sustainability that Orba delivers,” explained Boucher.
Undoubtedly on the up-and-up, Boucher explained Orba’s next plans are to prove, improve, and grow the product and the revenues in the New Zealand market. They plan to launch a range of colours using toxic-free plant-based dyes and some new styles internationally, taking pre-orders for a very small deposit. This allows Orba to sustainably grow its range while avoiding the waste that results from inventory forecasting risks.
The Hottest Streetwear Trends For 2023
Cargos reign supreme with arrivals up 198 percent in fall, while football jerseys make the cut as one of next year's most-hyped items.
CARGOS
The Gorpcore and Y2Kapproved trend shows no sign of slowing down going into 2023. The trend caught up on womenswear in 2022, with viral products like Motel’s chute parachute trousers, which replenished five times since their initial drop in February, and Jaded London’s tech cargo, which landed at number five on the Q2 LYST Index.
with 75 percent of sales made up of black, green, brown and grey.
On the Spring 2023 runway, silk fabrications seen at Versace and Fendi are the perfect addition to nostalgic stories. In the mass market, although only 7 percent of cargo intake in womenswear featured satin with little traction, the luxury space saw first majority sell-outs on three colorways of Off-White’s wide-leg style.
For male consumers, dadstyle 3/4 lengths emerged, still in technical fabrications but with a sportier feel, spotted at Givenchy and Robyn Lynch. Across genders, Grunge themes will cause cargo options to spill over into denim, an area already seeing significant growth across menswear and womenswear in the mass market, with options climbing 257 percent and 971 percent YoY in Fall 2022, respectively.
MAXI SKIRTS
in the mass market, with the tracking cargo and parachute, denim and lowrise styles as best-sellers. In the luxury sector, Rick Owens and ACNE Studios led the top moving styles, seeing first majority sell outs of jersey, split hem and metallic iterations of the trend.
assist in building out the theme.
MOTO JACKETS
One of 2022’s hotticket items, the Bikercore subculture, has caused the moto jacket to rival the varsity bomber’s cult status. The trend has been propelled by the release of Rosalia’s Motomami album and the resurgence of noughties nostalgia citing Christina Aguilera’s Dirty period and Diesel’s comeback.
Even in the mass market, moto jacket arrivals climbed 74 percent YoY in Fall 2022. The newly released PALACE x Gucci leather jacket trouser that has dominated social feeds has only fortified the trend’s return next year. Those tapping into the
The mass market took note, seeing arrivals over the past three months alone increase by 198 percent in womenswear and 98 percent in menswear YoY. Gen Z’s penchant for all things Y2K instigated the parachute shape as a key item, accounting for 20 percent of first majority sell outs over the period in womenswear. Male customers bought into more classic outdoor utility styles,
There is no denying Y2K’s influence in the streetwear space, with long-length skirts being one of the biggest new shapes in 2022. First, the Bella Hadid ACG vintage cargo style that caused a frenzy online and, more recently, Ganni’s collaboration with Levi’s, which became a front-row favorite at fashion week and saw the £245 denim skirt sell out.
Long skirts made up 29 percent of skirt arrivals
Denim is the runwayapproved fabric underpinning this trend in 2023. With Grunge hysteria dominating collections, fraying and acid-washing were details from key designers, Diesel and Givenchy.
Go one step further and update denim silhouettes with cargo styling –seen at Blumarine – as a welcome addition to Y2K assortments. The return of Gorpcore next year will see an emphasis on womenswear as it plays catch up, so include techy fabrics in earthy tones to
2000s appeal of this trend have had proven success with sell outs on washed
styles at Diesel and even biker pants, selling out in just seven days of landing at Bottega Veneta. More directional, denim versions of the style will refresh and support any noughties trend stories already spotted at Diesel and Supreme this year.
For female consumers, the runway was a treasure trove of inspiration, noting biker details such as padding, color-blocking and zips at Dion Lee and Dior, while menswear designers, including RHUDE, opted for a stripped-back, cleaner look.
VARSITY
While the varsity jacket
becoming Creative Director of the New York Knicks will only propel the trend even further into 2023.
Kenzo’s Class of 2023 on
Supreme, KAWS and Gucci this year, all of which have continued to champion the fleece. In the mass market, while arrivals are steady, standout trends have seen neutral colorways climb 11pp in menswear and, in womenswear, browns have increased by 9pp in the assortment mix.
Technical detailing remains at the heart of this
like the trailblazers in the space. Partnerships with sportswear brands have been a regular occurrence, recently noting ARIES’ partnership with New Balance and the PALACE collab with Umbro.
Not to mention the luxury market taking a piece of the action, spotting jerseys in some of the biggest collaborations to drop this year: PALACE x Gucci and Balenciaga x adidas. Interestingly, Balenciaga’s red soccer T-shirt has seen better SKU movement in bigger sizes after the campaign featured Bella Hadid sporting an oversized jersey.
the Spring 2023 runway hailed a new era for the brand and added a playful side to Preppy. Landing online in September, its Varsity collection has seen knitwear outperform other categories with best-sellers, including V-neck, striped and numbered graphic jumpers in bright hues.
remains a key ingredient to the Preppy aesthetic, the trend has transpired beyond the classic bomber, with collegiate graphics migrating across to sweats, accessories and knitwear. Streetwear labels have done well to shrug off the elitist Ivy League sentiment tied to the trend and, now more inclusive, the Prep Boy encompasses a new kind of self-expression.
Aimé Leon Dore and Kith have the aesthetic built into their DNA and bring a new smarter aesthetic to streetwear, mixing muchloved classics like chinos and Oxford shirts with New Balance 550s, beanies and chains or fleeces and shearling jackets. The news of Kith founder Ronnie Fieg
Elsewhere on the runway, neon pink hoodies at MSGM and slouchy striped jumpers at Paul Smith breathed new life into the trend, mixing sweats with tailoring and adding a younger feel to the classic trend. Don’t just take cues from the runway, PALACE, Kith and Supreme have all tapped into the style with updated collegiate logos on sweatshirts and tees, offering a simple update to core offerings.
FUZZY FLEECE
Outdoor brands and streetwear labels have had a long-standing relationship and their continued influence has brought Gorpcore to the masses. A bi-product of this has been the fleece jacket, noting Patagonia’s Better Sweater fleece in the LYST Index for Q3 as one of the year’s most coveted items.
Continued partnerships with The North Face have seen collaborations with
trend. Case in point, Aimé Leon Dore’s reversible style has seen the majority of SKUs sell out in both colorways. Color-blocking used in The North Face x Gucci collab and main range can be an easy update to achieve a technical look.
A sprinkling of fleece was spotted on the Spring 2023 runway, as we anticipate updates from the Fall 2023 runway. Dior’s contrast taped styles and 1/2 zips, also spotted at Kiko Kostadinov, were a welcome update to shape for next year. For womenswear, the SKIMS effect is likely to have an influence, with the brand having recently released its fleece loungewear that includes corseted tops and bottoms for luxe lounge looks.
FOOTBALL JERSEYS
The Blokecore subculture reared its head this year, paving the way for an endless stream of football jersey releases. Amid World Cup hysteria this month, streetwear labels feel
With a Martine Rose seal of approval on the Spring 2023 runway, this trend has legs heading into the new year. While the mass and luxury markets have only dipped a toe in for Fall 2022, sales have proven consumer appetite has grown. Sell outs in the market include streetwear interpretations like ARIES x New Balance x AS Roma to mass market boohooMAN’s Homme jersey.
Remember, this is a logo-heavy trend, so
sought-after brands have a particular accolade when selling shirts. For success, look to Balenciaga’s adidas soccer jersey for inspiration, boasting unisex appeal, retro sports themes and an oversized trend-driven block.