$ 10.95
FEBRUARY 2020 I VOL 53 I NO 2
editor ’ s note
IMPULSE SHIPPING The world of e-commerce can be unkind, a place where customer loyalty is fickle and the next big sale by a competitor could lure away your customer. Free shipping programmes are increasingly-popular as sale promotions for e-commerce sites, where the customer does not have to pay an additional delivery charge for an order. Free shipping is appealing to customers who appreciate a simple pricing structure, and it contributes to your competitive advantage. These days free shipping is no longer considered as an extra benefit it almost comes standard. There are psychological reasons behind a customer’s interest in a free delivery offer. When surveyed, customers feel that they get a better deal with free shipping than they do with a discount offer. Additionally, in many customer insight surveys over the last couple of years on conversionboosting trends, nearly one-fourth of online shoppers were willing to spend more than they originally intended in order to get free delivery. There are obvious reasons for this interest, most commonly because customers love free stuff and they do feel that they have achieved that when shipping is free. When customers receive free shipping, they are more likely to purchase a second item. Customers who, then they see ‘only one left’ might if they also see ‘free shipping’ make the purchase. In doing the math it is easy to see that a second purchase by several customers will cover the bill for the shipping for all. There was an exciting flash sale the other day from a brand who rarely has a sale. I was excited to score a designer pair of trousers I had been in love with for a while, and you know, while I was there I added a few other things to my cart. Why? Because the free shipping banner was flashing and I thought, well, it is only what I would have spent on shipping. Despite it being a $80 top and I would’ve only spent maybe $17 on shipping. Comme ci, comme ça right? The store covered their courier costs and also profited from it. That is if they were absorbing the cost, and had not already built the price into the product pricing. Shipping is not an easy matter for any manufacturer, supplier or designer. For those who want free shipping, equally, some would prefer transparent shipping costs with options to click-andcollect. Some customers demand overnight delivery, while others will happily wait two weeks or more for their parcel. It is a fact though that shipping costs can make or break a sale and account as the reason for a large proportion of abandoned carts online. There is a lot more to shipping than slapping a generic shipping price at the checkout. Here are some options but as always, tailor your shipping options to what suits your brand and your customer profile best.
FREE SHIPPING Let’s dive right into it. Customers love free shipping. As a business owner, there are two main ways to achieve free shipping, either build the delivery cost into the listed product price or absorb it against volume sales. The upside of free shipping is customers are likely to spend more because the second item purchased replaced the cost of shipping. (See my purchase above.) Between paying $17 on shipping or adding an $80 on-sale shirt, they will probably go with the shirt. Not sure why, it just feels like a bargain. Free shipping also removes any barrier for the customer to buy and actively encourages purchase. There’s no hesitation at the checkout by customers and far less abandoned carts. CALCULATED SHIPPING The most basic way to begin calculating shipping is to take measurements of the products before listing them for sale. Measure the weight and dimensions of the package. The shipping charge is automatically calculated based on the package measurements and the customer’s location. FLAT-RATE SHIPPING Flat-rate shipping means what it says – a flat rate. The total price of shipping is not tied to the shape, weight, or size of the shipped items. Small business customers utilise flat-rate shipping because it’s convenient and reliable. However, a bigger company with more volume has more logistics to think about. First, you need to calculate the average of all the company’s shipping costs. Be sure to pay attention to the changing average over the year and any seasonal changes. If average costs fall, allow the price you charge for flat rate shipping to fall as well. Similarly, if overall costs rise, adjust shipping charges to rise to reduce or eliminate any losses. Flat rate shipping charges need to be carefully monitored and adjusted – this can be an area of loss if care is not taken to audit regularly. At the end of the day, each business determines shipping costs differently depending on your company, your customers, and logistics. Think strategically about packaging, post and handling costs in relation to your customer base and company revenue. Give your customers the best option, while still recovering the costs of packaging, handling and despatch.
fashionable reads
The Fashion Book
The Fashion Book showcases the A-Z of the greatest names in fashion. This updated edition, edited and curated by Phaidon gives us an insight into the fashion and apparel world – the people who created and inspired it. The fashion industry is celebrated through and through in this book, from designers to photographers, stylists, retailers, creative directors and editors. This new edition sees new names that have changed the game including Virgil Abloh, Gosha and Alessandro Michele. While fashion leaders such as Coco Chanel and Issey Miyake are also included. This book remains a comprehensive and definitive view of the fashion industry today.
Grace: The American Vogue Years by Grace Coddington
International fashion icon and creative director at large of American Vogue, Grace Coddington, showcases seventeen photographers whom she has collaborated with throughout the years in this book. This book is the second and final volume of the collection of Grace Coddington’s best work. Filled with 295 gorgeous illustrations encased in a hardback, this book has been praised for being iconic while celebrating Coddington’s most memorable and mesmerising works.
Supreme
by James Jebbia Supreme has transformed itself over the past 25 years from a downtown New York skate shop to a highly sought-after global streetwear brand. This book oversees around two decades of talented creations. This hardback beauty includes 800 stunning images from photographers such as Larry Clark, Ari Marcopoulos and David Sims. Supreme is known for its commitment to design, this book is no exception. It is beautifully produced in terms of quality and design whilst giving readers exclusive insight into Supreme’s core ethos.
Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes by Dana Thomas
CHAIRMAN Peter Mitchell ISSN 1171-2287 Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand ADMIN/SUZBSCRIPTIONS Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags. +64 9 304 0142 com
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITOR ASSOCIATE Janet Guan - janet@reviewmags.com CONTENT MANAGERS Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM Raymund Sarmiento
2 I February 2020
Debby Wei
Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2020 NZ Apparel Magazine.
Dana Thomas, a New York Times bestseller, has a new release; Fashionopolis. This book picks apart the depths of the fashion industry. In the era of fast fashion where the industry produces 80 billion new garments every year, it’s time to think deeply about our actions. This book sheds light on the issue of capitalist excess and looks at the damages done by a globalised profit-hungry supply chain. Our clothes shouldn’t be consumed in a cyclical manner. Thomas highlights ethical and sustainable companies who are leading this movement.
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I3
fast five
KIWI PARA SWIMMING STARS IN CAMPAIGNCAMPAIGN
VITAL INDUSTRY EVENTN Great success for the over 1,300 exhibitors represented at the 93rd edition of the Expo Riva Schuh and 4th edition of Gardabags, events dedicated to volume footwear and leather goods, boasting an increasingly international identity. “During the four days of the trade fair, we have welcomed a targeted audience of professionals,” stated the chairman of Riva del Garda Fierecongressi, Roberto Pellegrini. “We have developed a policy of allegiance and relationships with the various players in the market.” The increasingly wide network of relationships with the major leaders of the footwear and accessory sectors is proven by the participation in the event. The 1,310 exhibitors, brands and companies represented at the Expo Riva Schuh (of whom 266 were Italian), and the 78 companies present at Gardabags (36 Italian) – all presented their samples in an overall exhibition area exceeding 33,000m2. A perfect balance between supply and demand is what helps to reinforce the event’s reputation. The training offered by Expo Riva Schuh and Gardabags was greatly appreciated by companies and buyers alike. With its calendar of appointments dedicated to sustainability in fashion, the circular economy, design and new purchasing trends, the exhibition once again highlighted its fundamental role as a workshop for ideas, creativity, knowledge and competence for the footwear and leather goods market. The next dates for the 94th edition of Expo Riva Schuh and the 5th edition of Gardabags are from June 13th to 16th 2020.
4 I February 2020
A new ambassador for Jockey has been announced and its no surprise for the iconic brand which is known for its continued support for modern women's bodies. Sophie Pascoe is New Zealand's most successful para swimmer with nine gold and six silver medals under her belt. "I’m so proud of my body for how far we’ve come together. As someone living with a disability, my body is a glorious example of diversity," explained Sophie Pascoe. "When I look in the mirror, I see female power and a body that has worked so hard for every triumph. I couldn’t be more proud to partner with Jockey and to be the face of Bravo II." The new campaign Bravo II bra range campaign features Pascoe to showcase and celebrate women of all shapes, sizes, life stages and mindsets. Jockey senior brand manager Nadia White said the brand is globally recognised as a champion for celebrating modern women and their bodies. "Sophie is an aspirational New Zealander who really speaks to our brand positioning, as well as being an advocate for diversity and body confidence, embodying everything we want in an ambassador," White continued. "The Bravo II range is an all-out celebration of modern women and their real bodies by a brand who has always supported them, and the campaign highlights Sophie’s relationship with her own body and what it can do." Jockey's Bravo range is a recent development into the bra market for the brand. The new Bravo II range includes a contour bra that supports natural shape, as well as an underwire bra – both of which have been designed to make women feel confident and provide support.
LOCAL FASHION DUO CLOSES With a single Instagram post, iconic kiwi fashion duo Madeleine Harman and Jessica Grubisa have announced that their luxury label, Harman Grubisa, is closing its doors. After much consideration, we here at HG have decided to close the doors on our brand. Time for a new chapter. The talented Kiwi designers were a great representation of local talent, and since their announcement, have received numerous posts on social media from customers sharing their favourite HG pieces. We are saddened to hear this news but respect the two ladies' decision. It takes a lot to put a close to a wonderful chapter, we wish them all the best for their future endeavours.
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CRISPS A LA MODE salty snack. “There is something deliciously decadent about delving into a bag of golden Proper Crisps” Inside the striking, limited-edition packaging you’ll find locally grown potatoes sliced to perfection and hand cooked in high oleic sunflower oil, lightly seasoned with high-quality pink himalayan Kiwi designer Dame Trelise Cooper salt. Once devoured the bags can has teamed up with Proper Crisps to be placed directly into your garden create limited edition packaging for compost bin where it will naturally their new Himalayan Salt Crisps. The snazzy new packaging reflects decompose in 6-12 months. As always, Proper Crisps are gluten-free, Dame Cooper’s signature feminine style and brings some much-needed vegan-friendly and contain no MSG or palm oil. glamour to the FMCG industry. The release of the limitedThe bags have been designed in blush pink and Tiffany blue, and are edition packaging coincides with Cooper’s soon to be launched adorned with bold red hearts and AW20 collection. “This was such gold foil detailing. These crisps are a wonderful opportunity to create perfect to share with those you love while also loving the environment by something beautiful with crisp being a part of Proper’s new range of innovators Ned and Mina which could be shared with those you home compostable packaging. love.” “Trelise’s collection is proof that The limited-edition Trelise Cooper doing the right thing by the planet can be beautiful,” commented Proper collection is currently available at all major supermarkets and snack Crisps co-owner, Mina Smith. retailers. Cooper herself is a big fan of the
6 I February 2020
ACTIVEWEAR BRAND EXPANDS Well-known activewear brand is set to launch in Auckland's Commercial Bay at the end of March this year. Along with this, Lorna Jane has announced that their March collection will have weekly drops in-store and online from the 1st of March. Filled with bold colours of reds and blues this collection also showcases neutral tones of beige and light grey. There is a piece for every individual, whether you're after something bright to lift up your spirits or beige for something more subtle. The red snakeskin pattern is seen throughout this collection and makes up the hero of the range.
NEW ZEALAND DESIGNER SHOWCASE AT VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK
Taking emerging designer designer showcase showcase Takingapplications applications now now to to be be part part of of our our emerging ‘ApparelPresents" Presents’atatVFW VFWSS21 FW20 in March 2020 "Apparel in September 2020
PACKAGE INCLUDES ALL YOUR RUNWAY NEEDS. EMAIL JANET@REVIEWMAGS.COM OR EMAIL CAITLAN@REVIEWMAGS.COM OR CALL 09 304 0142 EXT 712 TO REGISTER YOUR INTEREST. CALL 09 304 0142 EXT 706 TO REGISTER YOUR INTEREST.
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footnotes
NEW INNOVATIVE ENERGYRETURNING SOLES Legendary mixed martial artist, Conor McGregor, is featuring in Reebok's new Zig Kinetica launch. This launch signifies the next phase in Reebok's 'Sport the Unexpected' campaign. “I absolutely love these, the grip, the stability. I feel the connection from the sole to the material,” said McGregor.
"I’ve been around with Reebok a long time now, and each launch, the energy level is climbing. Now we are exploding" .Reebok's ZigTech technology is the definition of innovation. It fuses innovative sport-tech with sleek style to create a shoe that is suitable for working out in as well as the streets. There are three parts to this shoe that creates this
'energy-returning' sole: • Floatride Fuel: energised bouncy foam which helps with cushioning the feet for everyday use. • Zig Energy Shell: Channels and returns kinetic energy. • Zig Energy Bands: A unique outsole that expands and contracts for a spring-like response.
TENNIS BALLS REINCARNATED
RUGGED ELEGANCE
TOP FOOTWEAR TREND
A Portuguese company has been selling ecological shoe soles made from recycled tennis balls. Experienced tennis players use approximately three tennis balls per game or practice session. After, these balls are unsuitable for professional games or training. Three hundred million tennis balls are produced each year and are mostly recycled. However, there has never been an alternative way of recycling these balls until now. ISI Soles studied this problem and after trial and error, the ecological shoe sole made out of tennis balls was developed. Tennis balls are crushed, mixed with cork shavings derived from wine stoppers and thermoplastic. "Several tests were carried out, with the combination of different materials, in order to achieve a sole that meets all the requirements and chemical and physical properties. A sole that is comfortable, durable and environmentally friendly,” said Vítor Mendes, CEO of ISI Soles. Environmental concern and sustainability have been at the forefront of ISI Soles' production principles and all operations they carry out. They have a line of Vegan soles which has been PETA-Approved Vegan as well as soles that are biodegradable. These new soles made from recycled tennis balls are just one more innovation that ISI adds to their admirable list.
An iconic Australian brand has crafted and curated a gorgeous collection that brings the brands statement of rugged elegance into the new decade. R.M. Williams is thrilled to introduce their Autumn Winter Collection for 2020; filled with updated archival pieces and contemporary takes on the R.M. Williams tenets. This seasonal collection is inspired by the rich colours of the Australian landscape, placing emphasis on hues of red ochre, khaki, burgundy, dark teal, white, mustard, bone, black, fuschia and turquoise as seasonal heroes across this collection. Taking a more targeted aim at the younger and more urban customer, the brand's classic boots have been updated with a new Vibram sole – perfect for city living.
Expo Riva Schuh is the most important footwear show for buyers and designers alike. Found in Italy, Expo Riva Schuh and Gardabags share a showground of over 32,000sqm to give visitors twice the expo. More and more manufacturers are becoming extremely cautious of their impact and are paying careful attention to the matter of eco-sustainability. A common theme among manufacturers at the expo was eco-sustainability, utilising recycled and salvaged materials. Waste components like rubber and plastic are the norm in footwear, but cork became the favoured material for soles – which has a 100 percent natural origin. Respecting the environment by using ecological materials is hitting all the right buttons for consumers and isn't compromising on style. Meanwhile at Gardabags, they made good use of waste materials and by-products the leather industry. A higher quality of sustainable products can be found at Gardabags thanks to the use of traditional methods combined with craftsmanship. The 94th edition of Expo Riva Schuh is 13-16 June 2020. Gardabags will also be held at the same time and venue.
8 I February 2020
TAKING SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES ONE STEP FURTHER Return and repair services for products is the next step to living a more sustainable lifestyle. Merchant 1948 is leading the footwear industry by implementing a sole-repair service in their new flagship store in Westfield Newmarket. Steve Monks will be the on-site cobbler, with many years of craftsmanship and experience, customers are sure to have near-new shoes after a visit. Steve Monks has honed his craft through his work at the iconic shoe repair shop Shoe Sherrif for ten years. Merchant 1948 hopes to promote a sustainable lifestyle by providing the service of giving your favourite shoes a second life. “The fashion industry is one of the biggest polluters in the world and we’re committed to doing our piece. The next area we’re tackling is packaging and we are trialling a take-back scheme in our 277 store, where unwanted shoes can be passed forward to those in need,” said owner Shane Anselmi. To encourage sustainable consumer practices, any shoe can be brought to the cobbler at the Merchant 1948 store.
SPORTSWEAR BRAND EXTENDS THEIR LEAD IN SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS
Windrunner jackets made from 100 percent recycled polyester and pants in 100 percent recycled nylon. The Nike Air Zoom Alphafly NEXT% is Nike's newest race-day shoe. With additional foam and an updated carbon fibre plate, it adds to the improved cushioning of your feet as well as the economy. The Nike Air Zoom BB NXT is Nike's iconic basketball shoe. Light and responsive. With the new Nike Air Zoom pod system, the exposed foam allows athletes to exert lightweight strength with optimised protection. Nike SB will introduce kits on the forefront of sustainable design. Team USA, France and Brazil will compete in uniforms designed with 100 percent recycled polyester made with pattern efficiency in mind to produce as little waste as possible during the production process. Styling of these uniforms work to celebrate each nation's unique culture. This spring, Nike will also launch an exploratory footwear collection that pushes the limit for sustainable product design. Space Hippie will be using scrap metal found on factory floors, now termed "space junk", into this circular footwear collection.
Nike has designed footwear that provides runners with a measurable benefit for the Tokyo 2020 Games. The NEXT% platform will now expand into new disciplines following its success in distance running. Nike has also debuted a new collection that incorporates sustainable materials for all athletes. Nike's sustainable innovations highlight the brand's commitment to helping protect the future of the planet. Nike continues to lead the way through various projects that they've presented - sustainability as their primary focus. This summer, Team USA medalists will take the podium at the Tokyo 2020 Games in iconic
PUMA LAUNCHES A NEW RS DESIGN WITH AN OLD SCHOOL FLAIR PUMA is rebooting its RS design for the new year. With its silhouette stripped down and the use of stronger material mixes, we see RS-X³ Super. The vibrant colours in the RS-X³ Super are
inspired by the unique collection of hues found in old school video games. Available in three different colourways, there is a colour combination to suit any personality.
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ELLA BATLEY
emerging designers
From a young age, Ella Batley has always had a keen eye for fashion. From entering a school wearable arts show to graduating with a Fashion Design degree from AUT. “The idea of designing garments that help others achieve this idea of individualism is something I aspire to do.” Batley’s graduate collection mixed the versatility of sportswear with high fashion from the Victorian era along with the intricate details seen in Bolivian architecture. These three elements captured the fine line between playful and feminine design seen in Batley’s graduate collection. This collection manifests the concept of Pulchrism; an art movement founded by artist Jesse Waugh, which celebrates the idea that beauty is paramount. Making sportswear
10 I February 2020
that is ultimately designed with functionality in mind and turning it into something visually appealing was something Batley aimed to achieve. “Pairing the functionality of sportswear with the clothing aesthetic of the Victorian and early Edwardian era isn’t something that comes to one’s mind at first, however, I really liked playing with this idea conceptually.” From her studies she has learnt the importance of being clear around what her end goal is and what she hopes to achieve with every project she takes on. “Along with this, hard work and dedication are the elements that are going to set you apart from the rest.” Batley is most definitely inspired by the fashion industry as a whole as well as the skills she has learnt
through her fashion design journey so far. For Batley, sewing is an invaluable art skill for any individual, especially from a sustainable point of view. “Even being able to do small things like fixing a hem can prolong the lifetime of a garment whilst reducing material consumption.” Through her internship experience for both small and large-scale New Zealand designers she has gained a bigger understanding of the New Zealand fashion industry. “Being a young designer, the biggest challenge would be trying to break into the fashion industry, particularly with the small industry we are situated within.” Currently, Batley uses social media as her main platform to showcase her designs and for generating sales.
KAJAL PATEL Photographer: Karleshia Wills
Kajal Patel grew up finding herself always gravitating towards interesting textiles and details found in clothing, especially those seen in traditional Indian garments. This interest translated swiftly to her most recent graduate collection named ‘Naam’, which celebrates and explores the combination of Kajal’s two worlds; her Indian cultural heritage and her life in New Zealand. ‘Naam’ celebrates the significance of textile and dress heritage that is in the heart of Indian clothing. This collection highlights elements in traditional clothing from Gujarat and Indian such as the sari’s pleating, draping and rich tasselling detail. In conjunction, this collection also sees informal and asymmetrical shapes that represent the relaxed and unique New Zealand lifestyle. In a bold colour palette of rich mustard yellows, bold greys and blacks in luxurious textiles it is hard to miss the Indian influence in Kajal’s designs. As a Kiwi-Indian, she hopes her
designs act as a canvas of personal expression for herself whilst also sparking the conversation for other Kiwi-Indians to explore their own unique identity. The collection is called ‘Naam’ as it is hindi for ‘name’; it is a collection for every individual Indian woman who seeks a ‘name’ in the world they live in that is so diverse. The celebration of diversity between different cultures as well as the diversity seen within oneself should be celebrated. Patel is inspired by fashion designer Sabayasachi Mukherjee as his work incorporates traditional methods of craftmanship specific to traditional Indian clothing. The way Kajal Patel finds various methods to create her pieces are hugely inspired by Mukherjee. The way a garment looks is just as important as the method pursued to create it, Kajal Patel is conscious of this and aims to incorporate such methods into her work. The design process is a huge passion of Patel’s. Seeing a garment come together is
one thing, but spending hours fine-tuning the details is one of Patel’s favourite parts of the whole process. After graduating from Massey University Patel has taken on internships to gain further experience in the industry. “At the end of my internship, I gained a stronger sense of vision of where in the fashion industry I would find myself heading.” Patel is hoping to open an online store one day but for now she is focusing on gaining as much knowledge about the industry as possible through further internships and local fashion events. “I would love the opportunity to showcase my work on an international platform such as New Zealand Fashion Week.” For more information, email kajalpatel.bhana@ gmail.com or find her on Instagram @_kajal.p.
Mia Lawson has recently graduated from AUT with a Bachelor of Design, majoring in Fashion. Currently, she is travelling through South East Asia which has been incredibly eye opening. Seeing the mass pollution and the amounts of plastic waste along the beaches has been impactful in Lawson’s life. “If I am to work in the fashion industry, I want to make a difference through something I love doing.” Lawson surprisingly has not been in the fashion world for too long. She planned to study textiles at University, as a child she had always had a strong interest in fashion, so she decided to listen to her instincts and follow her passion. Through her studies she has learnt a lot from the mistakes that she made during her design and production processes and aims to improve on them with every new project she takes on. “I found the most important skill to improve on, time and time again, was time and production management. I found that being proactive and giving myself early deadlines to allocate room for improvements were saviours for finishing my graduate collection on time.” Lawson’s graduate collection is vibrant in colour made with 100 percent silk taffeta
and 100 percent viscose knit. Her decision to use these textiles so intensely in her collection was to help her embrace the feminine aesthetic; a design aim in her graduate concept. Lawson’s graduate collection is influenced by the natural cycle of floral beauty. “I would have to say this collection is very true to my nostalgic and feminine aesthetic, which is obviously shown throughout my work.” The inspiration for this collection stems from the loungewear fashion of the post-war era in the late 20s – 30s. The inspiration extends to the beauty ideals put against women at the time and how this is still an issue to this day. “This is why I wanted to base my collection on enhancing and embracing a woman’s natural beauty.” After interning at Leo + Be, she has gained valuable industry knowledge, however, she is hoping to branch out to social media to showcase her own work for those who are interested in her designs. “In the future, I would like to have my own boutique that supports start-up and New Zealand designers that have a similar ethos to me.” For more information, email mia-hl@hotmail. com or find her on Instagram @mialawson_.
MIA LAWSON
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colour trending
THORNTON BREGAZZI Resene Bi Hoki
BOSIDENG Resene Nourish
12 I February 2020
DILARA FINDIKOGLU Resene Sorbet
A.W.A.K.E. MODE Resene Grey Seal
KIKO KOSTADINOV Resene Daredevil TEMPERLEY LONDON Resene Soulful
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edited
How to include modest fashion in your assortment According to the State of the Global Islamic Economy Report 201920, Muslim spending on apparel and footwear is projected to grow to $402b by 2024. According to the State of the Global Islamic Economy Report 2019-20, Muslim spending on apparel and footwear is projected to grow to $402b by 2024. This is a market that brands can no longer afford to ignore, as businesses already operating in this space are reaping the rewards. Religion isn’t the only reason women are opting to cover up. For some, it’s a personal preference, where modesty is empowering. As demand for modest dressing grows globally, we’ve studied how fashion trends are influenced at western retailers, as well as what opportunities brands can tap into.
FALL 2020 INFLUENCES
Analysing the latest runway shows, modest elements were prevalent in all cities, playing into the overarching theme of hyper-feminine dressing. Victoria Beckham, Simone Rocha and Fendi were among the many designers showcasing modest maxi dresses. While layering continued as one of the strongest trends of the season. High necklines were among the key shapes for tops alongside blouses featuring long, voluminous sleeves and feminine details such as ruffles, frills and pussybows. Capes and ponchos were noted at Jil Sander. For
BRAVE NEW WORLD – TREND SHIFTS IN THE UAE The Sunday Times reported a distinct shift in traditional dress in Saudi Arabia. New designers are pushing boundaries by introducing colour and patterns to traditional garments – a bold move in contrast to standard black. The EDITED colour recognition software shows how hues have evolved in this market. Let’s start with analysing new abayas (long traditional robes) available at nine of the largest UAE online retailers compared to a year ago. While black still dominates, playful colors like red and pink are increasing. Currently, black makes up 59 percent of the abayas available at these retailers. When compared to the same period a year ago, black was 70 percent. The abaya colour wheels reveal an obvious swing into brighter colours and less grey. This confirms bolder tones are becoming more acceptable within this market. There is a similar trend in prints, which are rapidly gaining popularity. Patterns make up 23 percent of the abayas currently in stock compared to 16 percent a year ago. There’s more growth in another area too – jewellery. The number of necklaces retailing online in this market has increased by 40 percent YoY, followed by bracelets 21 percent, rings 11 percent and earrings four percent. This is a powerful category, especially for younger consumers who wear accessories as a statement. Jewellery is an easy way for brands to gain footing in the UAE market.
14 I February 2020
commercial silhouettes, midi and maxi skirts remained a crowd favorite in an array of colours and prints. An alternative to skirts and dresses, tailoring and suiting continues to gain momentum on the runway. Look to designers such as Roland Mouret and Giada for inspiration. At Milan Fashion Week, modest accessories were incorporated including turbans at Dolce and Gabbana, headscarves at Gucci and bandannas at Mario Dice. These looks on the catwalk confirms the continued presence of modest dressing. While this market has grown, there’s still an open space for specialist categories and diversification within
HOW IS RETAIL INTERPRETING MODESTY? So who’s wearing modesty? Western women in the US make up 36 percent of customers shopping on The Modist, an e-commerce platform for luxury modest fashion. The retailer showcases pieces from luxury brands alongside up-and-coming middle eastern designers. The luxury market is pioneering the modest fashion movement. In addition to the success of the Modist, Dolce & Gabbana launched a range of hijabs and abayas back in 2016. Since Alessandro Michele joined the helm at Gucci, more demure and elegant pieces started to trickle through. This evolution is obvious in Gucci’s recent marketing, a stark contrast to its campaigns from the early noughties (‘G’ pubic hair anyone?) under Tom Ford’s direction. Meanwhile in the mass market, modest dressing has become more accessible. Uniqlo has collaborated on a range with visual artist and designer Hana Tajima since 2016. Back in May 2019, Zara temporarily included a modestwear edit advertised via a drop-down bar on its homepage. And Islamic label, the Verona Collection, is now available on ASOS. Over the past year, modest styles have grown in both the luxury and mass market. On luxury brands’ own sites, tops with a high neckline increased by 20 percent YoY. Compared to the US mass market, this style experienced a 162 percent uptick with growth driven by brands catering to a wide demographic, ranging from NA-KD to Target. In both sectors, hemlines are coming down. The midi dress continues to thrive with new arrivals increasing by 22 percent YoY in luxury market and 35 percent in the mass market. As the key shape for skirts, midis make
2017 assortments – the time to tap into this market is now. However you approach this category, make sure you’re using data to back up your decisions. Talk to us to find out more and sign up to our weekly Insider Briefing for data-rich analysis delivered to your inbox.
up 58 percent of new skirt arrivals over the past year for the luxury market driven by brands such as Prada and Dolce & Gabbana. In the mass market, this silhouette is also the dominant length, equaling 42 percent of skirts arrivals with boohoo, Nasty Gal and Macy’s as the top stockists. While the maxi skirt makes up the smallest percentage in both markets, retailers continue to back this shape. New styles rose by six percent in the mass market and 14 percent in luxury, YoY. Last year, Halima Aden covered Sports Illustrated as the first model to wear a burkini and a hijab in the magazine. In retail, modest active and swimwear still stand out as an untapped opportunity for western retailers. It’s been over two years since Nike launched its Pro Hijab with next to no competition from other pure-play active brands. Nike has also recently released the Victory swimwear collection, which includes full coverage swimsuits and hijabs. While Slazenger and Next have dabbled in a small range of burkinis, these items are yet to be a mainstay of swimwear assortments.
SUCCESS
UNDER 30
Benjamin Alexander Fresh off his win in the debut season of Project Runway New Zealand (2018), twenty-five-year-old Benjamin Alexander reflects on his recent success, including hosting his first solo show at NZ Fashion Week. Growing up in West Auckland, Alexander describes a normal and happy childhood. School was never really his cup of tea, but he credits a “beautiful” art teacher for helping him steer towards a creative path. As a part of the Farry family, originally from Dunedin, Alexander does have some fashion history in his blood – the Farry family name being associated particularly with menswear in New Zealand. Despite this, it was what Alexander refers to as the “ritualistic dance of getting dressed” in the morning that really fascinated him and inspired his future in fashion. “I’ve always been enticed by clothing, so it has forever been with me.” A normal day for Alexander includes a coffee and a vape in the morning, then heading to source pieces for a Fashion Quarterly photoshoot or perhaps viewing samples or sourcing fabric for his own collection.
When considering formal education and whether it is important for a creative career Alexander believes it depends on the person. “I went through a formal education because I enjoyed learning and researching my practice.” Alexander emphasise that the fashion industry is a people industry and that connections are just as important. His only regret during his studies was that he didn’t participate in an internship. “Knowing what I know now, they’re important in familiarising yourself with the industry and allow you to try various areas within it before finding what path you want to follow.” “We have a beautiful community,” added Alexander, referring to the New Zealand fashion industry, which continues to inspire him and make him stay proudly New Zealand made. “New Zealand is my home and I want to support our industry.” Benjamin Alexander currently has clothing stocked throughout New Zealand as well as through his own ecommerce. His advice to others wanting to jump in the fashion industry: "Go headfirst."
apparelmagazine.co.nz
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in detail
Caitlin Crisp Strongly influenced by her surroundings, designer Caitlin Crisp took inspiration from her old studio in Kumeu which she was very fond of. Key points she took from her previous space was the earthy colours, tones, and paired this with natural fibres that are easy to wear. The pieces are designed as everyday effortless garments which were akin to what Crisp wears herself. “I always design things that I would wear and suit my lifestyle,” she explained. “If I can’t see myself wanting to wear it to multiple occasions then it doesn’t make it to production. So naturally, I was inspired by my everyday surroundings.” Crisp described her Season Two collection as easy to wear, modest, elegant pieces for everyday wear. Made from mostly natural fibres, Crisp said this was because the fabrics felt good against the skin, are comfortable and durable. “We have used a lot of merino and created our first fully fashion knit style in 100 percent merino made here in New Zealand,” Crisp added. “I’m really happy with it and it has been well received by retailers.” Highlighting the knit, Crisp said it is one of the hero pieces of the collection as a lot of designers produce their knits offshore, and her knit is not only made locally but is also unisex. The knits were fit tested on a variety of men and women to get the final product. With the whole collection being made locally, each piece is made in very limited runs. Crisp added that the price point was excellent for New Zealand made garments, making buying locally more accessible to a wider audience. All of the samples were made by Crisp and her team of talented Auckland-based sewers. “The fabrics were sourced through local fabric merchants and the entire collection is made here in Auckland,” she said. While there are no repeat styles for the season, Crisp followed a similar range plan of dresses, tops, and pants at the same price point as last season. The first drop of the Caitlin Crisp Season Two is available online and in-stores late March, with a second drop in May. Crisp has already taken wholesale orders for the first drop, but there is still time to make orders for the May drop. For more information or to become a stockist, email info@caitlincrisp.com.
16 I February 2020
REACH TESTED
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I 17
What is an E-Girl and E-Boy? Just as the VSCO Girl evolved from the 'Basic Bitch', another Gen-Z online persona has risen from the remnants of early-mid 2000s subcultures. Unraveling the Gen-Z subcultures that will be important to retailers as TikTok starts to mature and takes more of an active role in fashion. Enter the E-Girl and E-Boy, an evolution of emo boys and scene queens, influenced by anime and reborn on TikTok and Twitch. Get clued up on the alternative dress style, now sweeping the mainstream and taking Gen-Z by storm. These subcultures will be important to retailers as TikTok starts to mature and takes more of an active role in fashion. The platform is set to be embraced by the upcoming fashion shows, which are placing a focus on virtual coverage to cater to the vast number of Chinese buyers, journalists and stylists unable to attend due to the coronavirus outbreak. Reach out to an EDITED retail expert to learn about how to tap into similar emerging profiles like the E-Girl and E-Boy with the world’s largest retail data source.
THE E-GIRL AESTHETIC - EARLY MID 00S
THE E-GIRL AESTHETIC - NOW
THEY’RE BUILDING A BRAND A MELTING POT OF SUBCULTURES
The E-Girl draws on fashion influences from many style tribes. They are touted as the modern day scene queens, but their look is also blended with elements of emo, cosplay, anime, grunge, skater, hip-hop and BDSM. A contrast of dark and light, their wardrobes range from pastel color schemes to dark and grungy aesthetics.
THE ANTI INFLUENCER
The E-Girl emerged as an antidote to the heavilyfiltered Instagram influencer, challenging the standards of beauty often perceived through social media. While the ‘E’ refers to electronic, according to Urban Dictionary, the name also dates back to 2009 as a derogatory slur for female gamers. It’s been reclaimed with this movement and is now used with pride.
THE E-BOY AESTHETIC - Early Mid 00s
With 800 million monthly active users worldwide, TikTok is an enticing platform to achieve viral success. E-Girl’s are native to the platform and are purchasing items specifically for their video aesthetic.
THEY’RE THRIFTY
Unlike the VSCO Girl, their wardrobe isn’t made up of a specific set of brands. E-Girls enjoy vintage shopping and buying via resale platforms, where the term is currently attributed to over 70k items on Depop.
SKATING INSPIRATIONS ARE KEY
Like the E-Girl, the E-Boy aesthetic is a melting pot of subcultures, drawing influences from many style tribes. In addition to evolving from the emo subculture of the early-mid 00s, nods to 90s grunge are of note here with Thrasher tees an essential part of the uniform.
THE E-BOY AESTHETIC - Now
E-Girl/E-Boy is slang that combines the words ‘electronic’ with ‘girl’ or ‘boy’. Generally, the label represents people who have a large presence online and tote a specific style influenced by skate culture, goth, KPOP and cosplay.
18 I February 2020
THEY’RE NOT AFRAID OF MAKEUP OR ACCESSORIZING
E-Boys champion gender fluidity and are comfortable incorporating beauty into their aesthetic with black nail polish, eyeliner and shapes like heart stamps under the eyes. Haircare is also important here as the E-Boy is known for his flopping lock. Jewelry has always been part of the emo boy wardrobe. Now, instead of ear stretchers and snake bite piercings, singular earrings and accessories adorned in chains are must-haves.
THEY’RE DIGITALLY NATIVE
You’ll find this cohort on TikTok in a clip backed by Mac Demarco’s ‘Chamber of Reflection’ showing how he transforms from an ‘ordinary boy’ into an alternative E-Boy. Or he’ll be trying to woo E-Girls by lip syncing to Billie Eilish while rolling back his eyes and biting his lips. On TikTok, the hashtag #eboy has over 100 million views while Instagram has over 38,000 posts tagged with the term.
GAMING IS IMPORTANT
A key activity for E-Boys who are also present on the live streaming platform Twitch. Their love of gaming influences the relaxed, oversized silhouettes in their wardrobes, differing from the skinny jeans synonymous with their emo and scene predecessors.
edited
PRODUCT TRENDS TO BUY INTO
CHOKERS
MESH TOPS
CHECK SKIRTS
As E-Girls love nostalgia, chokers are a great way to include ‘00s accessories at entry-level price points, where new arrivals are up 26 percent YoY in the US. Chains or black leather styles with charms or O-rings are styles commonly noted on TikTok.
Thanks to the success of puff sleeves, sheer fabrications have been a success across the US and UK, as new styles are up 18 percent and 91 percent, respectively. Popularity can be seen in the updated long-sleeved tops with netting and merchandise layered under crop tops or band tees to build a story for the teen customer.
Drawing on both nostalgia and anime influences, tartan and plaid mini skirts are a key piece in the E-Girl wardrobe. Currently, the US has seen more new styles with a 104 percent increase YoY.
CHAIN BELTS
EARRINGS
PLAID JOGGERS
The studded belt was an essential accessory for emo boys, paving the way for chains to enter the mass market. Not just for belts, this detail can also be incorporated into jewelry to further resonate with this subculture at an entry-level price point.
As one of the most accessible items to buy into to capture the E-Boy aesthetic, earrings arriving in the US and UK are up 26 percent and 51 percent YoY, respectively. Zara and Topman currently offer the largest selection of earrings categorised for men. To emulate the E-Boy aesthetic, invest in singular earrings or mixed packs with crosses, daggers, small hoops and spikes.
With the emphasis this cohort places on gaming, relaxed trouser styles are essential, shifting away from the super skinny silhouettes favored by the emo boy. E-Boys are tucking joggers into combat boots and, like the E-Girl, checks are a popular print. The US and UK are currently seeing a 68 percent and 21 percent increase in new plaid jogger styles.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
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fashionable films
1917
Epic war film, 1917, directed by Sam Mendes, is a visual spectacle. With breath-taking cinematography paired with uncomfortable realism, it keeps you on the edge of your seat throughout the whole duration of the film. Based on events recalled by Mendes’ paternal grandfather, we follow two young soldiers tasked with an urgent and impossible task. The gruesome elements expected in war films are evident. However, the costumes add to the realism as well as the spectacle in 1917. Costume designers David Crossman and Jacqueline Durran have put special care in creating costumes that closely resemble the uniforms at the time. Moreover, the amount of
Little Women Set in the 1860s you’ll be sure to see gorgeously ruffled gowns grace the screen in Little Women. This feminist coming-of-age film based on the 1868 novel by Louisa May Alcott sends a vital message for the modern-day audience. However, it is also ultimately advanced for the time that the film is set in. The film follows the story of four sisters and their struggle with traditional gender roles and expectations. We see the sisters in large gowns in neutral tones of brown, white and muted blues. The Victorian era is shown through the film’s carefully selected mise-en-scene; however, it is the
equipment Lance Corporals Tom Blake and Will Schofield carry make us feel empathetic and uneasy. We also see the lack of protective equipment soldiers had at the time. The ambitious one-take of the entire film somehow makes you even more aware of the cinematography techniques and decisions that Mendes incorporates. Filled with strategic close-ups, we see the intricate details of the traditional khaki war uniform. 1917 is more than just blood and gore; it is filmed beautifully with larger than life landscapes and effects. We are made aware of the hardships and the ambitions of every individual in 1917 and World War I.
costume that really transforms us into the film’s setting. Large skirts with small bodices decorated with lace detailing are seen throughout. Although most of our attention is drawn to these beautiful historical gowns, it is important to also note the traditional 1860s attire that Timotheé Chalamet’s character, Theodore, sports. The oatmeal white Victorian ascot cravat is iconic for its time, so it was only fitting we see Chalamet in one. These gorgeously styled pieces undoubtedly bring this film together, and we have costume designer, Jacqueline Durran, to thank for that.
Like A Boss Hillarious and clever are two words to describe Like A Boss directed by Miguel Arteta. A seemingly modern film, we see the differences in costume choices between the two protagonists, Mia and Mel, and the antagonist, Claire Luna. The disturbingly bright red bodycon dress paired with gold heels we see Claire Luna in is contrasted with the all-black ensemble
that Mia and Mel are in during their first business meeting. Although Mia and Mel are ecstatic about this new partnership, the costume choices, unfortunately, foreshadow their doom. Claire Luna’s plan to steal Mia and Mel’s business idea from right under their noses forces opposites, but good friends, Mia and Mel to work together to bring her down.
Birds Of Prey With Harley Quinn’s cheeky characteristic in full bloom, we see costume designer, Erin Benach, dress our empowering female leads in looks that aren’t completely in line with your usual overly sexual female ‘superhero’. Many critics have said that this would be the downfall for Birds of Prey, however, the message that these costume choices present are powerful and shut down any criticism we’ve heard prior to the release. The film is filled with nail-biting fight scenes and explosions, making it a visually enjoyable film. With complex stunts it is crucial that the costumes
Dolittle
This fantasy adventure film directed by Stephen Gaghan is based on the titular character created by Hugh Lofting. Academy award winning costume designer Jenny Beavan brings her creative eye to this film. Although presumably set in a the mid-19th century due to the events referenced, the costume choices pay an arguably minimal nod to the era. With a few glimpses of top hats and long coats, Jenny Beavan creates muted looks with a flair of Western influence for the film’s characters. Thus, our attention is drawn to the computer-generated wild animals
the female leads wear are comfortable, stylish and practical. From sparkly jackets to fully golden jumpsuits, the costumes in this film are impressive and made sense, despite the premature critiques. The four female leads; Black Canary, Huntress, Renee Montoya and Cassandra Cain are complex characters with important back stories. Thus, making this film a standout from previous DC films. You do not want to underestimate the power and strength of these female leads. With an unlikely grouping of the four, it seems like it’s best to stay out of their way.
that play a large and crucial part of this fantasy film. Dr Dolittle is paired with an urgent mission to save Queen Victoria from a terrible disease. He must sail across the seas to find a special fruit that will cure the Queen. Unfortunately, the journey is not around the corner. With surprise attacks and untimely meetings, we see Dr Dolittle and his crew of animals fight their way through the ups and downs. With Dolittle’s special gift of being able to talk to animals, it should mean that he has the upper hand in this situation, however, this may not be the case.
Just Mercy Francine Jamison-Tanchuck, costume designer for Just Mercy, had a huge responsibility to create costumes that would help tell the true story of defence attorney Bryan Stevenson and, the falsely accused, Walter McMillian. Set in 1989, Jamison-Tanchuck made sure to draw inspiration from the fashion trends of that period. Blocky suits with a lot of tans, browns and oranges were seen throughout the film. With a heavy story to tell, it was also important that the costumes helped tell the beautiful story of a family that was going through the whirlwind that is the
flawed justice system. Bryan Stevenson goes through lengths to fight for those who are too poor to afford proper legal representation. On his journey, he makes it his task to help Walter McMillian, who is convicted for the murder of Ronda Morrison. The case has put McMillian on death row. Stevenson discovers this decision has been made on a highly contradictory testimony of another felon, Ralph Myers. With issues of race being the underlying scope of this film, the audience is left with an uneasy feeling of what had been the reality of an innocent man’s life.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
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22 I February 2020
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Top quality products require the best quality. You’re lucky. We’ve got the best threads, needles and accessories for you.
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24m Allright Place, Mount Wellington
apparel@terrys.co.nz Private Bag 14-935, Panmure, Auckland 1741 tel: +64 9 966 1832 24m Allright Place, Mount Wellington Private Bag 14-935, Panmure, Auckland 1741
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I 23
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24 I February 2020