SUR LA TERRE Doha No27 by SUR LA TERRE Magazines

Editorial News of the birth of a royal baby in the UK only served to add to the sense of new beginnings here at SLT.

While we offer our heartfelt congratulations to the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, plaudits and recognition also has to be handed out within the corridors Sur la Terre Towers for the birth of our brand new website: www.surlaterre.me. The team have worked long and hard to finally bring to bear, on the world wide web, a server of sumptuous luxury editorial content, available anywhere around the globe to expand the reach of not only the magazine you hold in your hand, but the local people, products and brands that often feature within its pages. A big "thank you" then, to Tom Dibaja, Laura Hamilton and Steven Paugh for their efforts in taking Sur la Terre’s opulent opinions to a wider audience. We have also ramped up our efforts on social media, with snapshots of our adventures appearing on Instagram (@slt_arabia) as well as treating the Twittersphere to our daily musings on all things luxury (@SLTMiddleEast). So, come join us, follow us, interact with us and tell the team what you want to see in the magazine, online and across all of these platforms. We’re a social bunch and we don’t bite. While all this has been in the offing, we have still had to beat the summer heat, and put together this latest issue. And boy, is it hot. If you’re feeling a little ragged and no amount of “tszujing” can maintain your normally coiffured appearance, we have hand-selected a few beauty products to help keep you feeling fresh, while Sophie Jones-Cooper and SLT International have the latest cool clothing looks covered. As the Holy Month of Ramadan draws to a conclusion, thoughts will no doubt be turning to faroff travel destinations, which is why Mr Paugh brings you the best in eco-luxury; travel with a conscience and visit sybaritic safaris to ritzy ranches to really live The Good Life. In the meantime, I explore a more well-travelled path, joining the Jetset with a stay at London’s Corinthia Hotel. For the stay-cationers amongst you, Laura scopes out the splendour of Salalah’s sumptuous five-star resorts beyond the mountains of Oman. We also have her first car review, alongside Damien Reid’s exclusive journey to “Infiniti and beyond” with F1 Champion Sebastian Vettel. There’s even men’s fashion from the Milanese catwalk, luxuriant leather from Pavoni, an interview with the CEO of La Montre Hermès, Luc Perramond, and your guide to sizzling a steak the New York Steakhouse way. If that lot doesn’t get you hot under the collar, then we’re as stumped as an Aussie cricketer. Whichever way you choose to enjoy it; here, online, Instagram, Twitter or by getting your fix on Facebook, we sincerely hope you enjoy our scorching summer serving of Sur la Terre. Eid Mubarak James McCarthy

Regional Managing Editor

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CONTENTS

DOHA NUMBER 27

the list A r t , c u lt u r e , l i f e s t y l e

the scene W e r e yo u s e e n o n t h e s c e n e ?

f o r y o u r e y e s o n ly Th e t h i n g s yo u n e e d to o w n

rev ue N e w yo r k s t e a k h o u s e

gl obe tro t ter Yo u r g u i d e to g lo b a l l u x u r y

st y le con fiden ti a l S t y l e s o l s ta c e

u p cl ose & per son a l Ta l e n t e d & pa s s i o n at e p e o p l e

lifestyle Th e b e s t o f b a s e lw o r l d

tr en ds con fiden ti a l Fa s h i o n o n f i l m

s i g n at u r e

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CONTENTS

DOHA NUMBER 27

look book Th e b e s t lo o k s f o r g u y s

fe atu r e G o i n g g r e e n t h e g o l d e n way

i n mo tion I n f i n i t i ' s f x 50 a n d m e r c e d e s ' a 2 50

jetset Co r i n t h i a h ot e l

fa s h i o n Co u n t ry c lu b c h i c

106 111

girls

hor izons S a l a l a h : t h e g u l f 's s e c r e t g a r d e n b e au t y S u m m e r lo v e s

114

o u t o f t h e b ox P av o n i , a s p r e y s a n d m i l a n fa s h i o n

124

m a r k e t p l ac e P r o d u c t s ava i l a b l e lo c a l ly

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N euschwanstein C astle , Germany

the list arts and culture

4 June 31 AUG

sep

14, 16, 18

A Verse Imprinted

Dance of the Devadasi

The Barber of Seville

WHEN: 4 June - 31 August WHERE: The Ara Gallery, Downtown Dubai WHAT: Art Exhibition Arabic calligraphy has been a major form of artistic expression in Arab culture for hundreds of years, imbuing a timeless quality that still has artists and art-lovers enthralled. Calligraphy has been described as “frozen” poetry and “the written beauty of feeling”, instilling a sense of beauty into the written work. A Verse Imprinted at The Ara Gallery focuses on calligraphic artworks that are inspired by the Holy Quran, quotations from the Prophet Mohammed and the ceaseless wonder that is Arabic poetry. With art from the likes of Abdulrazzak Mahmod, Eman Al Bastaki and Fatma Saeed Al Bagali, it’s a perfect chance to immerse yourself in this ancient tradition and admire Arabic culture in its purest form. www.thearagallery.com

WHEN: 13 September WHERE: Dubai WHAT: Dance In the melting pot that is Dubai, cultures swirl around each other much like the Dance of Devadasi, a traditional Indian performance that focuses on the girls who are “married” to deities. The story of the history of Indian dance, its glory, downfall and revival are told through the perspective of Nithya, a Devadasi (temple dancer), who lives in a Hindu temple and has devoted her life to the gods. Performed by the Maayavi Dance Drama Concepts Company, the Dance of the Devadasi will transport you into a different culture and a new world. www.maayavi.com

WHEN: 14, 16 and 18 September WHERE: Royal Opera House Muscat, Oman WHAT: Opera It is said that love makes fools of us all. Nothing could be closer to the truth in this opera buffe, a comedic turn that sees heroic Count Almaviva disguised as a penniless music teacher in order to win the fair Rosina’s heart. Meanwhile, her evil guardian Dr Bartolo plots to marry Rosina for her dowry, but after several plot turns, an aria, a duet and a clever trick, Almaviva gets the girl and Bartolo gets the dowry. Everyone goes home happy. It may be a little strange to hear Italian opera performed in Muscat, but the love of music is inherent in Omani culture and The Royal Opera House Muscat is a magnificent setting in which to appreciate Gioachino Rossini’s masterpiece. www.rohm.org.om

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sep

the list ENTERTAINMENT

JULY AUGUST

AUG

SEP

The Festival Fantasia

Placebo at Vodafone Istanbul Calling

Tom Jones

WHEN: July/August WHERE: Various locations, Morocco WHAT: Festival Fantasia is the perfect example of traditional folklore and a peek into the unique culture of Morocco. Every year in the summer, each village has at least one fantasia, a group of superior horsemen who don traditional garb whilst charging and firing into the sky with old gunpowder guns. This colourful display of horsemanship is a testament to the importance of horse culture in the region, as only well-bred horses (and men!) can take part in this nod to the history of Morocco’s fierce warriors, the Berbers. www.travel-exploration.com

WHEN: 16 August WHERE: Istanbul WHAT: Concert Before emos ruined everything, the alternative rock band Placebo’s sharp lyrics and morose and morbid themes filled a hole in the UK music scene that The Smiths had left in the 80s. Androgynous and fueled by angst, Placebo was the soundtrack to those who like their music witty and so cool it hurts. This summer, they’re heading to Istanbul, where they will headline at the Vodafone Istanbul Calling Festival, playing tracks from their latest album and hopefully some of their much-loved older songs, like “Pure Morning” and “Every You, Every Me”. www.istanbulcalling.com/tr/

WHEN: 19 September WHERE: Abu Dhabi WHAT: Concert Back in the day, Sir Thomas John Woodward, or Tom Jones to the world, could make a girl weak at the knees merely by sounding out a single note, his voice is so mellifluous and indeed, sensual. Dubbed “The Voice,” the Welsh charmer has been hitting the charts for almost half a century, but his sheer talent still draws in the crowds despite having entered his eighth decade. Thanks to his son, Jones made a comeback in the 90s and recorded tracks with younger bands and artists which shed his kitsch image. When it comes to live performances, Tom Jones is old school and completely unparalleled. www.thinkflash.ae

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the list Lifestyle

21 JUNE 21 AUG

27 JUNE 17 AUG

19-21

Dubai Sports World 2013

SummerFest Abu Dhabi

“Dralion” Cirque du Soleil

WHEN: 21 June - 21 August WHERE: Dubai WHAT: Sports festival Bike Pump Tracks, Skate and BMX competitions, walkathons, charity Zumba and enough football tournaments to satisfy even the most hardcore footie fan - did you think you were going to be able to take it easy this summer? Sportsmania hits an all time high along with the temperature this summer as spectators, wannabe athletes and professionals meet in the huge indoor facility to test their abilities and shake off the lethargy that falls upon us in the summer months. If you’re a sport aficionado then you shouldn’t miss this! www.dubaisportsworld.ae

WHEN: 27 June - 17 August WHERE: Abu Dhabi WHAT: Summer Festival Summer lovin’ can be hard to come by in the intense heat of the Gulf. To get us out of our slothful stupor and in the mood to party, SummerFest Abu Dhabi is holding a 52-day extravaganza, in which there will be concerts, theatre performances, international stars, sporting events, live shows and celebrity appearances and premieres to keep us all amused in the heat. A three-storey obstacle course with rock climbing walls, zip lines, a maze and the worryingly named “Extreme Tower Bag Jump” will entertain the hyper-active children, while a set of English-speaking Arabic comedians will keep the less-adventurous adults adults amused. summerfestabudhabi.ae

WHEN: 19 - 21 September WHERE: Aspire Dome, Doha WHAT: Circus The insane and magical world of Cirque du Soleil returns to Doha after its triumphant debut last year. “Dralion” is a fusion of Chinese ancient circus traditions and Cirque du Soleil’s signature avant-garde whimsy, and promises a harmonious blend of Eastern and Western acrobatic prowess. Complementing the usual clowns are Azala, the goddess of air, Gaya, who possesses the power of fire, Oceane the queen of the water, a firey demon and the Little Buddha. As usual, the voices of Dralion are in an invented language that only Cirque du Soleil understands, making the unique universe truly international. www.cirquedusoleil.com

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SEP

th e scen e

Ramadan Special: W Hotel â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

As Qatar celebrated the holy month with souhours and iftars, Sur la terre was there to capture some of the local festivities.

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4 1. Fadi, Esra and Clara 2. Madona and Kristyna 3. The Brooke family 4. Norma, Ana, Marwan, Amer, Jeanette and Akram 5. LaLive in Qatar LLC group

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th e scen e

Ramadan Special: Rennaissance City Centre â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

As Qatar celebrated the holy month with souhours and iftars, Sur la terre was there to capture some of the local festivities.

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1. Werner, Peter and Ute 2. Bob and Ereecka 3. The Renaissance City Centre team 4. Mohammed, Amaa and Amy

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th e scen e

Ramadan Special: St Regis Doha â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

As Qatar celebrated the holy month with souhours and iftars, Sur la terre was there to capture some of the local festivities.

1. St. Regis staff with Executive Chef Brendan Mcgowan 2. Adulwahab, Mohamed, Lubna, Andre, Ashantai, Chamila and Sara 3. Zoran and Caterina

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4. Sami, Amjad and Saleekha 5. Ranran, Karen and Laura 6. Sophie, Malin and Madona

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th e scen e

Launch of Fate by Amouage —

The Omani perfumer unveils Christopher Chong’s latest olfactory Opus

In June, Omani perfumer, Amouage, invited VIPs and selected regional and international media to its beautiful new production facility and visitor’s centre in Muscat for a very special dinner to launch Fate, the latest fragrance by creative director, Christopher Chong.

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For your eyes only

WELCOME To a world where money is no object and Cool comes at a price. FYEO is A millionaire’s shopping list that gives you an iNSIDE track to the things you need to own.

Atmos-Clear >>> As anyone of a certain age will tell you, time is a fragile thing. However, perhaps never before has that delicate nature been so artistically captured as it has in the joint project undertaken by Hermès, JaegerLeCoultre and Les Cristalleries de St. Louis. In fact, this intricatelylain, 176-piece limited edition Hermès crystal clock is so gorgeous, it may just leave you breathless, which would be ironic, given that it runs on... air? That’s right tempus fugit fans, we don’t need batteries, electricity or winding where we’re going. Thanks to an ingenious design, which allows a hermetically-sealed capsule - pregnant with a heady cocktail of gases - to expand when the temperature rises and contract

as it drops! Amazingly, this mechanism acts as a bellows to maintain a nigh-perpetual timeliness, not to mention beauty. Consuming 250 times less energy than a wristwatch, the Atmos is a thing of precision as much as it is ornate splendour. Each exceptional globe is handmade by one of six dedicated master glassmakers using a painstaking double overlay technique that makes each Atmos chime with one-of-a-kind timelessness, which is made all the more resplendent by the inclusion of a 15-jewelled movement. Put simply, if time had a heart, it would look like the Hermès Atmos clock. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

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The Art of Being You >>> Did your mother ever tell you that you were a work of art? Huh, ours just told us we were a “piece of work,” but never mind. It turns out yours might very well have been right, as is proven by the PlayDNA genetic portraits from DiagnOx Laboratories! Now, you can frame the very genetic markers that make you the beautiful and unique snowflake you are at a molecular level. Based on years of genetic research conducted by founder Dr Sam Decombel and Oxford University’s Dr Stuart Grice, PlayDNA takes a simple cheek-swab sample supplied by you and transforms it (via “Science”) into one of the most personalised pieces of art we’ve seen in quite some

time. In quintessential postmodern art fashion, PlayDNA renders the genetic banding patterns produced by one simple mouth swab and charts a light-map comprised of key characteristics locked within your genetic code, including your preference for day or night, memory, the strength of your taste for bitter things, pain sensitivity and finally, eye colour. This is not just a picture of you, it’s a portrait of what MAKES you “you.” Finally, forensics isn’t just for police work or terrible TV shows about police work. Congratulations you little masterpiece, your mum was right! www.playdna.co.uk

Textcalibur >>> If, as they say, the pen is mightier than the sword, then we may well have found “textcalibur.” While the legendary sword would bite its enemies to protect their rights, this Porsche Design P‘3135 Titanium Pen will instead protect your writes, and it all begins, as so many things do... with style. Much like that wielded by King Arthur, the P‘3135 is a thing of understated, majestic beauty; it does not rely on the ostentation of embellishment, nor does it hide behind the pomp and circumstance of flair: an unfettered, unbroken implement of change, with a slash not hindered by flash. Just like any stalwart guard well-practiced in the dark art of editorial swordplay, the

Porsche Design P‘3135 Titanium Pen is neither one to fall to pieces, being made of much sterner stuff than that. Not for nothing, after all, has it earned the befitting moniker “Solid,” as each pen is milled from one piece of solid titanium. Thereafter, it is polished and coated with a scratch-resistant PVD coating, thus creating an impenetrable housing for its hidden mechanism, which feeds its 18 carat gold rhodinized nib and comes emblazoned with the Porsche Design icon. At a cool US $1250, this “steel” is no steal, but there’s really no better way to make your mark on history. www.porsche-design.com

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The Sound & The Hurry >>> Sometimes, the sight of sound rings just as beautifully, a strange truth exemplified when British artists of amplification, Bowers & Wilkins teamed with Maserati to make sweet music together... in stereo. The 805 Maserati Edition Speakers are, first, things of visual design beauty. Resonant in a luscious birdseye maple real wood veneer and girded within luxury black Maserati leather, each loudspeaker evokes volume even when at rest, much like the luxurious models of Maserati do at speed. Supported by a base tattooed with the iconic Trident, this collaborative triumph is the latest stand-mounted model in the flagship 800 Series Diamond speaker range, which elicits a Pavlovian response in audiophiles. Given its celebrated lineage, this exclusive edition will contain the tech necessary to make the promise of “stunningly realistic sound quality” more than just an idle boast. Armed with innovative Quad Magnet Tweeter and Dual Magnet Bass Motor Systems, a bevy of diamond tweeters, the revolutionary crispness offered by its Nautilus heart and its recognisable tweeter-on-top technology, these are some of the most arresting speakers, both in design styling and output, ever produced by Bowers & Wilkins... which is saying a lot. This may well be the shape of the sound that drives you. www.bowers-wilkins.co.uk

Lunar Camera >>> Anyone who told you that your photographs are “out of this world” was, perhaps, being overly generous. Now, don’t get us wrong, you might have “the eye,” but your pictures can’t be classified as truly heavenly until they’re taken by the Hasselblad Lunar Camera. Inspired by the classic 500C from 1957, the first camera to be used in space (after being purchased by astronaut Walter M. Schirra from a camera shop in Houston, Texas), the Lunar is a thing of both technological and aesthetic wonder. This is a camera that comes with a charisma to suit your own. The LF 18–55mm Lunar is not just an exercise in ergonomic excellence, but in style, as each unit can be personalised in a a number of natural materials, including brown tuscan leather, carbon fibre, rich mahogany, olive wood or simple yet lustrous black leather. Thanks to its inherent Optical SteadyShot image stabilisation system, you’ll also get a sure shot no matter where your intergalactic travels take you, or how much you find your body moving. Sleek where it needs to be, yet supple in design, the Lunar is one of the sexiest cameras we’ve ever seen, in this universe or any other. www.hasselblad-lunar.com

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A Signature Dish Four pearls One of Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hidden gems is Melia, a Spanish hotel that is inconspicuous from the outside, but holds within a visually impressive interior in an arresting feat of architectural prowess. Inside is Signature, a restaurant for those in the know, who actively avoid the tourist traps and Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well-known glitzy hot spots for the real deal.

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anjeev Kapoor is the face of Indian cuisine, a famous and international star who is behind the deceptively named Signature, which dishes up authentic Indian cuisine. Kapoorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life goal is to wrest his beloved food away from misconceptions and stereotypes and establish Indian cuisine as the most popular and best in the world. What better way to start than in the cosmopolitan, east-meets-west city of Dubai? Although Melia is a Spanish hotel, it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a tapas bar - only Signature, which may seem a little strange, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just testament to the melting pot that is Dubai. Located in the heart of traditional Burj Dubai, its contemporary elegance makes it stand apart from other five-star establishments; more specifically impacting is its use of space, which is highly innovative. The lucky writers of SLT have had the combined good fortune to stay at some of the most glamorous and luxurious hotels all across the globe, from the intimate boutique hotels, to the ostentatious and opulent resorts. Melia is the only one that truly impressed me with its design. It is

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rather like the TARDIS, unimpressive from the outside, but with a clever use of space - to enter the hotel, you must drive underground. Inside the hotel, it’s austere and striking, an impressive melted mirror hanging on the wall casting off light, and comfortable leather furniture dotted around the lobby. It’s atmospheric, and very different from Dubai’s usual Arabian modern style - this kind of grandeur is entirely design-led. The rooms themselves are also unusual - the en suite is in a glass box which may sound a little clinical, but comes across as more art house, a room within a room. Signature is on a mezzanine between the entrance and the hotel lobby, so you don’t have to traipse past tourists lugging their Louis Vuitton suitcases and waving around maps. On entering the restaurant, the first thing I notice is that it’s full of Indians; a good sign. No restaurant can be truly authentic if it can’t draw in its native people. The second thing I notice is the darkened interior, the crushed silk dangling from the ceiling and catching the light - the ambience is that of a theatrical set; romantic, dramatic, but still. There is nothing ostensibly Indian about the setting - no sitar playing, no bright colours. It’s very modern, classic and, perhaps most importantly, subtle. Outside is a covered patio, with a slightly more relaxed atmosphere, where Signature hosts its many food festivals, where you can taste the regions of India, feasting on local cultural delights without the hassle of travelling around a country.

The menu reads like a personal book of recipes that the chef created on a culinary journey. If you like your dishes to come with a story, then Signature is for you. The duck roast, we learned, was a recipe Sanjeev was introduced to at his Syrian friend’s house, for example. Some of the dishes have an Italian twist, like the chicken parmesan tikka, neza kabab and chicken seepha, which came with a smooth and creamy sauce which I soon found out to be Signature’s theme. Signature’s pièce de résistance (its “signature” dish, if you will) is the Gharha - earthen pot cooking. It is a truth universally acknowledged that cooking with fire is vastly superior to the modern oven; the flames imbue the meat with a smokey flavour. The Maharajahs of Mewar and Marwar used to use this technique of cooking during shooting season and Gharha cooking is one of Sanjeev’s earliest culinary memories of his mother - another personal anecdote. I chose the slow-cooked lemon grass butter chicken, because Sanjeev calls it his special gharha creation for “food lovers,” so any half-serious foodie should have his or her interest piqued. This really is the star of the show - subtle enough to not upset those who react badly to intense spice (sorry spice lovers), but interesting enough to please curry-lovers. The lemon grass and butter melt together to deliver a velvety sauce for the tender chicken. It’s not something, however, that strikes you as typically Indian it comes with sun-dried tomato olive naan, another nod to the Italian influence.

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"There is nothing ostensibly Indian about the setting no sitar playing, no bright colours. It’s very modern, classic and, perhaps most importantly, subtle." The prawns and aromatic basmati biryani is succulent and perfectly paired with the garlic yoghurt, a rare dairy treat for my lactoseintolerant stomach. Again, it was perfectly smooth and mild. My only issue is whether Signature’s dishes are not a little too smooth I’m not sure if I just chose similar dishes or if the smoothness was getting a bit too ubiquitous. Dessert was a traditional trio of gulab jamun, rasmalai and bhapa doi, respectively a deep fried dumpling of condensed milk, a smooth cardamom flavoured milky paste and pistachio and almond pastry. All made from similar ingredients, you’ll be surprised at the strong and distinctive flavours - best washed down with a cup of sweet tea.

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High Steaks Four pearls When confronted with a hunk of meat, sizzling in a pan, the marbled fat melting into the juice and emitting "that" aroma, even the strictest of vegans raise their eyebrows in anticipation as their mouths water. No one can resist The Steak. Not even former (or shall we say reformed?) vegetarian, Laura Hamilton.

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he Chef cuts the ribeye steak into slices, and juicy pink flesh peeks out from under a browned and peppery epidermis and I close in on the plate, my gnashers are gleaming with anticipation.

According to legendary food lover, francophile and American chef Julia Child, “The only time to eat diet food is while you're waiting for the steak to cook.” It’s delicious - the marbled fat melted into the juicy meat makes it tender. Fat in steak, I learnt quickly, is not necessarily a bad thing, and can actually improve the taste. On the flip side of the manly meat coin is the sophistication and precision, the dandyism. One may not know the difference between gnocci and granadilla, but one has very strong opinions on the correct way to cook a steak. Despite living in Paris for years, the only French mon père managed to master was vocabulary directly related to how his meat is cooked; the man has his priorities and they involve steak being entrecôte.

The Steak Sommeliers Sous Chef Moritz Neumann and Manager Owen Cooper may have left for Dubai to helm a new steakhouse for Renaissance hotels, but their legacy will live on here. “The New York Steakhouse is more about the concept, the look of the restaurant, the service. Obviously a lot of the cuts are from the East Coast of the US, the Porterhouse, the T-bone, even the sides like the spinach and mashed potatoes. The open kitchen, the leather armchairs, and the huge glasses all contribute to the traditional New York atmosphere,” says Owen. “When we first opened The New York Steakhouse, there were only two competitors and now we have seven; all up-market, highend restaurants. It’s going to continue without a doubt.” The new manager, Faizer Mohamed, agrees that times are changing. “People have become more sophisticated with their choice of steak. Everyone’s vocabulary has changed, they’re not asking about steak anymore, they’re asking about Kobe or Wagyu.”

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The Perfect Steak “To execute the perfect steak is fairly simple, although it takes a lot of experience to do it the right way,” insists Chef Mortiz, a chef whose eclectic career has taken him across the Atlantic and back from Grovesnor House in London, to the steakhouse scene in Phoenix, Arizona. “There is not one way to cook steak,” says Chef Moritz. “But the best advice I can give for home cooking is to take the beef out of the fridge half an hour before you cook it. I would never finish the whole beef in the pan alone. You should pre-heat the oven to 100 or 120 degrees and once you’ve marked the steak in the pan, you can let it cook slowly in your oven. This will relax the beef a lot more. The temperature will cramp the beef so you need to let it rest afterwards. If you serve the steak right away, and cut it open, the juice will leak out and your plate will be covered in red liquid and the steak will lose all its flavour,” he warns. “When the pan is hot, you slap the steak on it,” explains Faizer, “As the heat permeates the steak, all the juice goes to the centre of the steak. If you overheat it, then the juice evaporates, but if you do it right, then the juice stays inside. When you rest it, the juice goes back to where it belongs.”

marbled steak is juicier and more tender, I wanted to know if there were any other common misconceptions. “Meat is getting so expensive and people want to become more educated about it. They want an explanation of the best way to eat the beef, they want a professional to recommend which cut should be medium rare, and which cut should be rare. The first year we opened, people asked for welldone steak, or very well-done and now they come back and they’ve become a bit more experimental - they tried it medium and found it was juicier, more tender,” says Owen. “We take a lot for granted - there are many more different cuts of steak than are available in a supermarket. Most of the beef that steakhouses use cannot be bought in your average supermarket. Even in Europe, you have to go to a special butcher. It’s a cut above supermarket beef.”

Would You Like to Taste, Madam? So the rule goes “White with fish and red with meat”, but do we actually want to follow the rules? “Big reds are always going to be popular in steakhouses,” says Owen. “Bordeaux, Cabernets, Malbecs from South America, Shiraz from Australia. Qatar is so diverse, and people are so accustomed to their tastes, steak is so personal to everyone. The French will always order from France, the “You have to be patient. When you rest the meat, it tastes completely different,” agrees Owen. “How long we cook steak here all depends on the temperature, on the thickness of the beef, if the customer wants it charred or not; it depends on the cut. “If someone was having a tenderloin, which is a lot thicker, with less fat content, it would take 10 minutes to cook it rare and if they wanted it well done, then it would take a lot longer, especially if they wanted it butterflied or holed. The tomahawk, for example, is our biggest steak at 1,000g, and even a medium rare would take 20 minutes,” explains Owen. Steak, it seems, is an equation. x (cut) + y (fat) - z (rarity) = 10 minutes. For those of us who aren’t mathematically inclined, take hope: everyone cooks steak a different way and therefore, there is no “right” or “wrong” way. “The great thing with steak is that everyone eats it all around the world. The US, the French, Australians... they all have a different idea of the way it should be cooked and also one person’s idea of medium rare is different to someone in

another country,” says Owen. “Everyone has their own way of cooking beef, even of breeding it. People come in to The NY Steakhouse, and it turns out they’re farmers in a particular part of the world and they start testing you - asking you questions. We have a lot of Argentines who come to the restaurant and they convinced us to get Argentine beef.” It seems that even the experts aren’t afraid of learning new things.

The Cuts Like with fashion, the cut is the most important part of the steak. “We have Australian Kobe, Australian Black Angus, US Black Angus and we’ve just added Argentine Black Angus. So that’s five different breeds of cow and around 20 cuts. The Wagyu Kobe and Wagyu Tenderloin are the most popular and the highest grade beef,” says Owen. “When we first opened the restaurant, we noticed the Wagyu Tenderloin was the most popular beef, and thought there is a market for this really specific quality. So we ordered the Kobe, which is just as popular.” After I found out that fat wasn’t necessarily a bad thing when it comes to steak, in fact,

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South Americans get excited when they see a bottle from Chile... it all depends on what you’re used to.” “Technically speaking,” says Faizer, “Red has a tannin in it, and that works very well with a protein - like meat. They marry very well together. It’s the same as black tea and milk. As Owen says, it’s a personal preference at the end of the day, but if we’re asked for a recommendation, that’s what we all go for; a big red with a steak.”

The Verdict After nibbling on Chef Mortiz’s ribeye, I was hungry for more. A few hours later, I returned to The New York Steakhouse with a hunger in my belly and two parents in tow. The leather armchairs, the low-lit ambience, the intimate room that is spacious enough that no one can eavesdrop on your private conversations... there is nowhere else like it in Doha. This is a real class act. For our first course, we chose the Fines De Claire Oysters, Seared Foie Gras and Tuna Ceviche - almost a cliché of what the sophisticated palate desires - and while the oyster I pinched from my father’s plate was delicious - salty, cold and fresh, the foie fras was a little too wobbly for my tastes - images of sad ducks and geese rose in my mind, before I could wash them down with a glass of delicious red. What makes the steakhouse stand apart is its relaxed atmosphere; this is not a restaurant that you go to see and be seen, with women clattering about in Louboutins and men

adjusting Dunhill cufflinks. It comes across as a private club, a little corner in the Renaissance hotel where you can unwind and feel at home; a good place to spend an evening. After a few more sips and a lot more reclining in my plush armchair, I went for the Rib Eye Black Angus, which was smaller, but thicker than I had imagined, and infinitely more tender than anything I have ever produced in the kitchen. Before slicing into the meat, you are offered a selection of knives from an enigmatic box, from the antiquated to the deadly. They are all adequate to your needs, and sharper than Oscar Wilde’s wit, but your choice determines your character (or perhaps your fate). My knife practically sunk into the meat as the table quietened; we were all focused on our food. It’s here that vocabulary fails me... Coco Chanel made little black jackets (dresses?), James Bond makes the ladies swoon and Chef Moritz makes steaks. My parents went for the Filet Mignon Australian Kobe and the US Wagyu Ribeye, respectively. I opted for a juicy, delicious hunk of Australian Black Angus filet mignon. The steakhouse really outdid itself with the side orders, where we had both Butter and Truffle Mashed Potato (Irish genes), which was smooth and delicious, Creamy Spinach, upon which Popeye would have surely gorged. My favourites were the Grilled Asparagus and the Sautéed Wild Mushrooms; crunchy and juicy, they were the perfect accompaniments to the tender meat. My personal philosophy in regards to haute cuisine is that even the finest steak can be let down by weak side dishes, and The New York Steakhouse does not let this

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happen (so impressed was I by the asparagus and mushrooms, I returned a week later, sat at the bar, ordered a drink and my two favourite side dishes). An honourable mention, for experimentation at least, goes out to the Bourbon Mashed Sweet Potato/Marshmallow - deliciously light sweet potato topped with marshmallow. By themselves, delicious; together, disastrous. There is no one steak. There are many different types for you to savour, to ponder over, to masticate, to taste and to daydream about. It’s surprising how different the beef can taste, and it is worth becoming a “steak sommelier” and learning the difference between Kobe and Wagyu so you can discover which one you prefer. The educated staff (easily the most helpful and knowledgeable in Doha) will happily guide you through your meat-filled journey. I leave you in their safe hands.

What’s Your Favourite Steak? “For me, it’s a Wagyu Ribeye, medium rare,” says Owen. “Same,” says Moritz, “It’s by far the fattiest, richest, most satisfying steak for me.” Faizer, on the other hand, plumps for something a bit different. “Wagyu sirloin. It has a unique flavour. It has more texture to it. It’s not as soft and tender, perfectly medium rare.”

GLOBETRO TTER

Where: Eugene Onegin What: The Met, New York, USA When: from 23 September to 2 December www.metoperafamily.org

Where: New York, USA What: 2013 US Open When: from 26 August to 8 September

www.usopen.org

Global Gatherings Global Gatherings is your at-a-glance map of magnificence, directing you to all of the culturally essential, entertaining and luxurious events and happenings that will be taking place across the world (or perhaps, we should say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;sur la terreâ&#x20AC;?) over the coming months.

. sur la terre . globetrotter .

Where: Edinburgh, Scotland What: Edinburgh Fringe Festival When: from 1 to 26 August www.edfringe.com

Where: Tokyo and Osaka, Japan What: Summer Sonic When: from 1 to 19 August www.summersonic.com

Where: London, UK What: Notting Hill Carnival When: from 25 to 26 August www.nottinghillcarnival.com

Where: Monaco What: Monaco Yacht Show When: from 25 to 28 September www.monacoyachtshow.com

Where: Hong Kong, Hong Kong What: Fine Art Asia When: from 4 to 7 October www.aaifair.com

Where: Darling Harbour, Sydney What: The Sydney International Boat Show When: from 1 to 5 August www.sydneyboatshow.com

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GLOBETRO TTER

nightlife

SHOPPING

Orgo

Momentum

Where: Singapore GPS: 1˚ 19’ 19.03” N, 103˚ 54’ 00.59” E

Where: Dubai, UAE GPS: 53˚ 20’ 33.129” N, 6˚ 15’ 35.02” W

Short for Organic Chemistry, Orgo stands out from the crowd for two reasons. First is its approach to the menu - it takes the artistry of making cocktails to a whole new level, while at the same time maintaining the simplicity of fresh and pure ingredients. Japanese mixologist Tomoyuki Kitazoe replaces processed ingredients like syrups and liqueurs with fresh produce; for example, pomegranate is used instead of grenadine, creating one of the few seasonal cocktail menus in the world. The second exceptional aspect of Orgo is the structure, interchangeable glass boxes feature instead of a walled-in bar, making the surroundings part of the interior and a visit to Orgo a truly unique night out. www.orgo.sg

In these modern times, when one only has to glance down at one’s iPhone 5 to tell the time, watches have unsurprisingly outstripped their practical uses and become a luxury commodity. The best (and some would say only) accessory for men, as well as the most classic one for women, it’s unusual to find a place in the Gulf like Momentum, which answers all your horological needs. Not only a cultural hub for watch and jewellery exhibitions and the showcase of cultural displays, Momentum serves as a platform through which to find your one-of-a-kind timepieces; vintage and modern. Spend your time browsing through its impressive array of watches from Cartier to Omega. www.momentum-dubai.com

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HOTEL

restaurant

InterContinental Marseilles

St John

Where: Marseilles, France GPS: 43˚ 18’ 23.20” N, 5˚ 22’ 10.11” E

Where: London, UK GPS: 51˚ 31’ 16.59” N, 0˚ 06’ 05.37” W

Heralded as “The best Marseilles has to offer,” the InterContinental Marseilles opened in April 2013 is steeped in luxury. Seated at the foot of Le Panier, Marseilles’ oldest quarter, the hotel boasts a magnificent view of 2013’s European City of the Year. Transformed from the former Hotel Dieu, vaulted passageways, terraces, grand staircases amid vast gardens decorate the 18th century architecture and transport you into the lap of luxury. There is a brasserie on the terrace, and Chef Lionel Levy, who has held a Michelin star for the past seven years, heads a gastronomic restaurant which specialises in delicious, locally-sourced seafood. To relax, you can visit the six treatment booths in the Clarins Spa, and there is also an indoor pool, two saunas and a hammam. www.ihg.com

London is arguably THE cosmopolitan metropolis on the planet, and boasts the finest cuisine a single city has to offer. It would be very remiss, however, to visit the capital of Britain without sampling some of the delicacies that makes the nation Great. British gastronomy has a bad rep, but St John is one of the hidden gems peppered about the sprawling city that can change your mind. A former smokehouse, the Georgian townhouse has been a well-known haunt for the locals for the last twenty years, where you can kick back in the simplistic English ambience and gorge yourself like the lords of yesteryear on such hearty fare as roast bone marrow and parsley salad, pigeon and beetroot tops and braised wild boar. www.stjohngroup.uk.com

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style confidential

Style Solstice As summer sets up in full-force, we bring you the hottest styles, trends and fashion news for this season and beyond.

Join the Crew When it comes to baby clothes, they are more often than not either too sickly sweet or overly kitsch. For something stylish, yet cute, J.Crew’s babywear collection is just the ticket for trend-setting tiny tots. With a main collection - Crewcuts Baby - which boasts an adorable cashmere sweater line, an organic range, baby kurtas and bloomers by Rikshaw Designs and their latest collaboration with Nili Lotan, you can be assured of having the bestdressed baby on the block. If only they made mummy sizes too. www.jcrew.com

J.Crew

Orlebar Brown for her

Shoes, Choos and Chois

Orlebar Brown is a name synonymous with super stylish men’s swimwear and in particular dapper tailored shorts. This season, though, us ladies can also enjoy this classic and preppy style on and offshore, as the brand has launched its debut collection for women. The 16-piece capsule collection is modelled after the men’s signature trunks and includes bikinis, one pieces, shorts and rash guards. The collection is available exclusively on Net-A-Porter.com.

Everybody loves a bargain, and with Lucy Choi now available at online designer discount store, TheOutnet.com, you can treat your feet to not only one pair of new designer shoes, but a medley of flats, kittens and maxi heels. Not heard of Lucy Choi? She is the niece of Jimmy Choo and sister to Jimmy Choo’s Creative Director Sandra Choi, so you can be sure you’re in good hands, or should we say feet? www.theoutnet.com

Lucy Choi

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Eid indulgences Gents, ladies can never have enough accessories, so earn some brownie points this Eid Al Fitr and spoil accessory addicts with a little something special. This necklace from Marni (one of a selection of limited edition designs available in Dubai) is chic and sassy, or for something more lightweight, these Hand of Fatima bracelets from Cruciani available in a range of twenty colours will bring luck, protection and goodwill, as well as a dose of quirky character (available from Crucianibracelets.ae). If her penchant is for handbags, then this limited edition version of Jimmy Choo’s Shadow bag (available in Dubai) crafted from bronze elaphe, oozes a subtle and sleek elegance and is an undeniably enviable piece of arm candy.

No stress dresses

Jimmy Choo

Hand of Fatima

Marni

Winning whites White has had a good run this summer and is a great colour to take us into the new season. Eva Longoria combines white with vibrant yellow for a simple, yet striking daywear style, while Pixie Lott goes for the classic combination of black and white for her evening ensemble. We love this chic white jacket from Dolce & Gabbana’s pre-fall collection as it can be worn day or night, smart or casual.

As we get ready to leave behind the summer season of trends and make way for autumn’s latest offerings, the simplest way to transition between the two is with a pre-fall dress. Designers including Dolce & Gabbana, Marni and Jean Paul Gaultier (who this season launches his very first pre-fall collection) have all opted for simple yet bold dresses to bridge the gap. Think pretty and bold florals and simple colour blocking.

Marni

Jean Paul Gaultier

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana..

Eva Longoria.. (Image courtesy of..Coach and Bauer Griffin) ..

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Pixie Lott..

Fashion Forward We may still be sporting our SS13 wares and planning our AW13 buys, but with the recent SS14 Men’s Fashion Weeks in London, Milan and Paris, we are already able to catch a glimpse of what is in store for the boys next summer! Slick tailoring was certainly at the forefront of fashion, with designers including Alexander McQueen, Emporio and Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana opting for sharp and glossy suiting. Alexander McQueen’s suits were ceremonial yet lightweight, cropped at the ankle and in a medley of fabrics including distressed floral jacquard weave, while Emporio Armani’s tailoring was laser-cut with a sleek and slick finish. As well as showcasing its mainline collection in Milan, as part of London Collections Men, Dolce & Gabbana presented its tailoring collection at the opening of its latest menswear store in London, on Bond Street. The style was dapper and utterly refined with a glossy and preppy finish. If this look is anything to go by, thick blackrimmed Woody Allen glasses will be everywhere next summer.

Alexander McQueen ..

Dolce & Gabbana ..

Jimmy Choo ..

Footwear was also given a slick lick. We love these pimped-out studded slippers from Jimmy Choo’s, SS14 collection, which saw classic styles given a contemporary twist, inspired by unique street style from around the globe.

Emporio Armani ..

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Make your statement If you are going to invest in one piece of jewellery this summer, make it a bold statement necklace. These oversized dazzlers will transform everyday wardrobe staples in an instant, bringing colour and character to plain separates. For the office, wear with a simple white shirt to pep up proceedings, or add charisma after hours with the perfect antidote to a simple block colour shift dress. And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fret over matching colours â&#x20AC;&#x201C; clash your shades and mix up your fabrics for an eclectic and quirky finish.

Matthew Williamson at Net-A-Porter.com

Shourouk at Net-A-Porter.com

Ranjana Khan at Saks Fifth Avenue

Erikson Beamon at Saks Fifth Avenue

Mario Testino for Mate at Net-A-Porter.com

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M ach u Picch u, c uzco , Peru

The Horology of HermĂ¨s

u p close a n d per so n a l

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Jean-Louis Dumas When Jean-Louis Dumas established La Montre Hermès in 1978, it was the start of a journey to haute horology. Laura Hamilton speaks to Luc Perramond, the CEO of La Montre Hermès about the luxury market, BASELWORLD 2013 and Hermès’ new complication, Arceau Le Temps Suspendu.

ow has La Montre Hermès evolved since it was established almost forty years ago? In the 80s and 90s, we focused on ladies watches, mostly on design, so we were in the fashion accessory market. We worked with Swiss watch manufacturers in the past, learning from them; then, in 2000, we decided to take watches to a different level, adding more craftsmanship and more value to our products. We wanted to raise watches to the same level as our leather goods. So we increased production - making more watches for gentlemen, increasing our mechanical-type pieces and made more precious timepieces for ladies. More gold, more diamonds, which will definitely appeal to people in the Middle East! We are now the prestigious watchmaker as you expect Hermès to be. What is the luxury market like in the Middle East and what is your next step in the region? Hermès has opened several flagship stores in Dubai, Bahrain, Kuwait; we now have a network in the Middle East. You know, since 2009, which was a difficult time here in the Gulf - especially Dubai - the market has fully recovered. We’re seeing a dynamic luxury goods market again. We’re also looking into setting up a flagship store in Saudi Arabia, as we’re not present there, yet. The country has a very strong appetite for luxury goods, especially watches, and Saudi makes up around 50% of the total business in the Middle East.

Switzerland. We think of a global customer, of global clients. The philosophy in Hermès is to give the store manager free reign over what is in his or her store. Twice a year, in Paris, we have a podium where all the buyers congregate, and all the product novelties are shown for the next season. The buyers come and chose what they want for their store, as they know their customer, what they feel is appropriate for their market. We don’t do local products. The only time we ever created something specifically for a store was two years ago when we opened in Mumbai. We created an Hermès sari to celebrate the inauguration, but in general, it’s not our approach. Who is the target customer for Hermès? You! It’s quite interesting that although we sell to women, we have a very strong male following, especially for watches. When you go into an Hermès store, you feel very comfortable as a man - it’s quite androgynous. The best way to describe the customer is the person who appreciates beautiful and high-quality products. They are looking for craftsmanship, elegance, an understated style and the highest quality of design. Hand craftsmanship is very important - most of the watches are made by hand. Exclusivity is also integral to Hermès; our collections are often quite small. We follow a value strategy rather than volume.

Residents in the Middle East often travel abroad, especially to shopping capitals like London, Paris and New York. How do you make each store unique and different? We have a network of 330 Hermès stores worldwide, and our clients are mostly international. They may buy in London, or Cannes, but what’s important is that they receive the same high level of service. If you travelled to each Hermès store around the world, you wouldn’t find the same products because we have so many different collections, and that’s to our advantage. When you travel from store to store, you will always find something new; clients from Doha can buy something here that they won’t find in London, and vice versa. This makes for a more interesting shopping experience, and it’s worth going into every Hermès store as it’s a discovery each time. If everything were standardised, it would become less exciting. However, we don’t have local or regional collections. All of the Creative Directors are in Paris, and the watch design and manufacture is in

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The Queen of England is very famous for her Hermes headscarves, but there are plenty of younger pieces; for example, watches and jewellery have a very timeless quality. That’s the paradox; we want to be exclusive, but at the same time we’re accessible. The feel is very modern, contemporary, so we do attract younger customers across the globe, despite Hermès being a historical brand (we were established in 1837). Whereas in Europe, where we are very well known, the clientele tend to be older. There’s a dimension of modernity in every creation and this attracts younger customers, especially in the Middle East and Asia. Even in the US, there has been a renaissance of Hermès. It’s a younger crowd. What about in your native France? In France, there are three groups of established clients; the bourgeoisie for whom Hermès is a family tradition. In those circles, the grandmother, the mother and now the daughter buy Hermès watches. France is our first market for watches, because there is a tradition that after your baccalaureate, you get your first Hermès watch as a gift, usually a Cape Cod. It’s a nice piece for a young graduate. Then there are the new entrepreneurs, in their 30s or 40s, having the first experience with Hermès, and finally, the tourists. However, the market is changing, especially with watches, and we are constantly recruiting new clients for Hermès. People sometimes hesitate to push open the door, because it can be intimidating, but the watch is an easy way to enter the universe of Hermès, and a good way to start your Hermès experience. How is the luxury market in Europe? It’s “interesting,” as the British would say! We were concerned last year about what was happening at a micro-economic level and we expected domestic business to suffer, but it resisted quite well. We are valeur refuge, that is to say, a huge brand, and when things become tough, you tend to go to brands you trust, because you know there is a strong name, a strong history, and our quality will always be recognised. In fact, customers tend to abandon companies with less standing, so we are much more resilient than most brands. But you can see in Europe that the mood isn’t very positive. I think that politicians have understood that austerity is not the only solution, so they know they have to stimulate the economy, but it will take a while. In Europe, however, there is a large tourist industry, so we benefit from this. In the future, growth will come from South East Asia, China and Russia. You’ve just returned from exhibiting at BASELWORLD 2013. How was it and what new novelties did you unveil? BASELWORLD is a unique platform for watch and jewellery makers to present novelties to all the major brands and international journalists. It’s where we share our plans for product development with the press and it has become the place to be. If you’re a player in this business, you must go. This year, our pavilion, designed by Japanese architect Toyo Ito, who just won the Pritzker Architecture Prize, was very organic, made of wood, surrounded by a garden - absolutely stunning. We unveiled our new complication, Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. It looks like your usual beautiful ladies watch, with rose gold and diamonds, but it’s actually quite whimsical. If you press a button, it gives you the unique ability to suspend time - the two hands both swing to 12, although the inner mechanics are still tracking time. So you can enjoy the quality of time without worrying about the quantity of time. You can press the button again and it returns to the correct time. It’s a poetic watch, in terms of movement, it’s all made in-house by Hermès, and we had to invent a mechanism that would allow you to suspend time. The dial turns anti-clockwise and instead of 60 seconds, we chose to only have 24, the number of our flagship store, 24 Rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré, in Paris. It’s a number that is important for Hermès. It’s playful, and we don’t take ourselves too seriously, although there is very serious watchmaking behind the watch - a unique combination. We are not just another watchmaker, we are trying to make people dream, to help them escape routine. We think it’s going to be very successful!

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life s t yle

Vintage Baselworld More than 120,000 fans and collectors of exclusive timepieces were in Basel in March for the 41st Baselworld fair. SLT International presents the new technological achievements and designs of the latest watches from today’s most prestigious brands. Text: Gaëlle Hennet Photographs : all rights reserved

Calatrava 5227, Patek Philippe

81 years after the launch of the first Calatrava, Patek Philippe presents another example of the timeless quality of this legendary collection. Available in yellow, grey or rose gold, the watch sports a round body with a diameter of 39 mm, with the slightly concave bezel, curved lugs and slim profile typical of the Calatrava family. The innovative case has a hinge which can only be seen when the case is examined closely, the perfect place to engrave a dedication or to admire, through the transparent backing, the magnificence of the automatic inner mechanisms of the watch. Combining elegance and technical accomplishment, this new model has already become a cult item!

MP-05 LaFerrari, Hublot

Paying homage to the functionality and beauty of the LaFerrari, this timepiece, which has been designed entirely by Hublot and will be limited to an edition of merely 50, can bear comparison with the star car itself. A true concept watch, this unique model already holds two records, its 637 components integrated into a tourbillon movement, and the 50-day power reserve. In terms of design, it makes subtle reference to the shape and colours of the LaFerrari, with its sapphire crystal face in a complex shape and the red bars on either side of the cylinders. The lucky owners of this racing car of a watch will discover that the attention to detail has gone so far as to include the design of the presentation case, made of leather and carbon fibre, which contains the tools needed to wind it up.

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MegaWind, MB&F

Derived from the HM3 series, the MegaWind offers an unrestricted view of the movement, and keeps hold of our attention thanks to the two cones emerging from its asymmetric case, displaying the hours on the left and the minutes on the right. The Megawind’s motor, with its 270 components, is a real technological feat by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, who, in order to invert the movement, devised a system of ceramic ball bearings, visible through the back, which transmits the time to the rotating hour and minute cones. A machine to show off as soon as possible!

Chronograph Grande Date, Blancpain

True to tradition, the new Chronograph Grande Date from Blancpain combines a mother-of-pearl face, a self-winding mechanism and several complexities into a model with a lavish setting. From the first glance, two parts of the mother-of-pearl dial can be seen clearly, divided by two arrays of 17 diamonds of different sizes. At 12 o’clock the Roman numerals displaying the hours and minutes form a dynamic counterpoint with the Arabic numerals of the chronograph counters; meanwhile, at 6 o’clock an aperture shows the date, formed by two discs. And as for the automatic winding mechanism of this exceptional timepiece, it contains 495 components!

Première Flying Tourbillon Sapphires, Chanel Horlogerie

Elegant and refined, this new model from Chanel, offered in a limited edition of 5, has a white gold bezel set with 112 baguette-cut blue sapphires, which surround a dial with hands and a tourbillon in white gold set with diamonds. This stylish watch is the fruit of a close collaboration between Chanel and the Swiss manufacturers, engineers and watchmakers of Renaud & Papi. The exclusive mechanical movement, with manual winding, has a power reserve of 40 hours.

Carrera CMC Concept Chronograph, Tag Heuer

This new watch stands out as one of the most futuristic versions of the famous TAG Heuer Carrera, the watch inspired by motor sports designed by Jack Heuer in 1963. Including the same carbon composites found in Formula One and the aerospace industry, this new watch is driven by a movement developed entirely in-house, the Calibre 1887, which has 320 components. With a case very similar to that of the Carrera Mikrogirder, winner of the prestigious Aiguille d’Or at the most recent Grand Prix d’Horlogerie in Geneva, the Tag Heuer Carrera CMC Concept Chronograph takes watch-making technology to a new level.

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Breguet Type XXII 3880, Breguet

Joining Breguetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s emblematic collection this year is a beautiful model in rose gold. It encloses a chronograph movement with silicon escapement and flat balance, whose frequency has been raised to 10 Hz, the equivalent of 72,000 vibrations per hour. This watch is characterised by precision, with the second hand completing a full rotation in 30 seconds. Besides the second time zone on the dial, there is no doubt that you will appreciate the aesthetics of this model, with a brown dial contrasting with flyback features, shown in red, and the luminescent hands and indices; a perfect marriage of beauty and innovation.

Pilot Montre dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;AĂŠronef Type 20 Tourbillon, Zenith

In titanium and rose gold, the rotating cage on the upper left side of the dial in this tourbillon watch includes a display of the days of the month. The asymmetric aesthetic allows the mechanism of the tourbillon to be highlighted while preserving the elegance of the proportions and lines. The date is shown via a disc placed at the edge of the cage. The calibre of the El Primero 4035 D constitutes the heart of the movement of this timepiece, which is both refined and elegant.

Grande Heure GMT, Jaquet-Droz

This new model shows the time clearly via two apertures. With 24 indices in Arabic numerals positioned around an ivory-coloured enamel dial, it has two magnificent compass-shaped hands, one in red gold showing the local time and the other in blue steel, showing the destination time. Simplicity and elegance are complemented by the bold choice of a unique system of time setting, via a single crown.

S39 Instrumentino, de Grisogono

This year, de Grisogono adds another model to its emblematic Instrumentino collection with colour and precious materials. Dressed in pink, and adorned with a salmon shagreen bracelet, there 717 diamonds elegantly arranged on the rose gold case and dial. This ultra-feminine version of the Instrumentino opens the door to telling time, with its double display of hours in the centre of the dial and the automatic movement opening onto a second time zone.

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Speedmaster, Omega

Both sporty and distinguished, this new model has a black ceramic dial and case, highlighting the superb white gold indices and hands. In addition to this contrast, the tip of the central chronograph hand is red and the hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova. This model is based on an ultra-sophisticated movement, the Co-Axial calibre 9300, with a silicon balance spring, making it an advanced feat of technological innovation.

Dior VIII in rose gold and ceramic, Dior Horlogerie

Dior Horlogerie has abandoned its dichotomy between black and white to come up with a rose gold trim for its Dior VIII models, directly inspired by fashion trends. Complemented by the black ceramic of the case and fine diamonds accentuating the bezel, the rose gold also adorns the hour and minute hands, as well as appearing on the clasp of the bracelet.

Emergency II, Breitling

This year, Breitling has reaffirmed its role as a pioneer in the field of watch-making techniques by launching the Emergency II, the first wristwatch with a personal dual-frequency distress beacon. This model has a rechargeable battery, integrated antennae and a dual frequency transmitter which meets the specifications of the international satellite alert system, allowing it to send both a distress signal and guide localisation to aid rescue operations. The Emergency’s unparalleled technological features also include a robust and lightweight titanium case, which adds to the technical and powerful looks of this timepiece.

Discovery Expedition special edition, Da Vindice Genève

The 500th anniversary of the discovery of Florida by Ponce de León was marked by Da Vindice of Geneva unveiling three Florida Discovery 1513-2013 special edition watches, which were offered to President Obama, and the adventurer Alvaro de Marichalar. Including the features which made the Race Challenge model such a success, the watches has a steel case and a Valjoux 7750 mechanical movement with automatic winding, granting a power reserve of 42 hours.

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Arceau Temps Suspendu, Hermès

The 2013 Pritzker prize Toyo Ito created the impressive pavillion in which Hermes unveiled the latest model from its Le Temps Suspendu collection. Classic and elegant, this new timepiece has a 38 mmdiameter case in rose gold set with 62 diamonds, surrounding a silverplated dial with mother-of-pearl highlights. The new Arceau can make time stand still: a simple press on the button located at 9 o’clock stops the hands in their tracks, giving an unexpected break from the onward march of time.

Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster, Rolex

This new timepiece has noble contours and generously set diamonds on its 29-mm diameter case and its bezel. This exceptional aesthetic shouldn’t cause one to overlook the technical qualities of this Oyster, which has a waterproof case up to 100 metres with a base hermetically sealed using a special tool unique to the Rolex watchmakers and synthetic sapphire crystal which is virtually unscratchable. Finally, the Pearlmaster has the 2235 calibre, a mechanical movement with automatic winding which is 100% designed and manufactured by Rolex.

L.U.C Perpetual T, Chopard

New from the L.U.C. range, the Perpetual T epitomises the standards inherent to the legacy of Louis Ulysse Chopard. With this model’s refined aesthetics, the mechanism fulfils one of the world’s most prestigious horological combinations: the coupling of a tourbillon at the base of the dial with a perpetual calendar, in pride of place with a large date shown in a double aperture. At 9 o’clock, the day of the week is shown along with a day/night display, while the months and the leap-year cycle can be found at 3 o’clock. And to complete these impressive features, the Perpetual T has a nine-day power reserve.

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tr en ds confidential

Fashion on Film Sophie Jones-Cooper explores the impact film has had on our style over the years from the chic elegance of Holly Golightly to the eclectic charm of Carrie Bradshaw.

nspiration can show itself at the most unlikely of times. Who would have thought that walking my rather unruly 18 month-old yellow labrador down a rural country lane, in my Hunters as opposed to my Louboutins and surrounded by farmers and holidaymakers instead of fashionistas and style makers, would be the source of inspiration for my latest fashion feature? As I navigated streams and styles, passed sheep and pheasants and said good day to the Belstaff and Barbour brigade, from out of nowhere, a stunning Chanel red MGB sports car whizzed past me, and I was instantly transported back to a 1950s film scene. The driver, a very stylish lady from the neighboring village was every bit the glamorous screen siren in her chic LBD, oversized shades and Pucci-esque headscarf billowing in the breeze. Her two dapper gent passengers looked as if they had stepped off the set of The Talented Mr. Ripley in their linen shirts, blazers and retro round shades. Where were the director, the catering van and the hoards of extras? For a minute I was in movie land and it was as much the clothes my neighbours were wearing as anything, that took me from a quiet country lane in 2013, to a scene from a film circa 1958. This got me thinking about how much films have influenced the way we dress. Films have shaped fashion and inspired decades of style. Take Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, who immortalised over-sized shades, the now truly iconic LBD and not to mention a penchant for pearls. For decades, women have turned to this iconic style from the 1961 film. Even before this, Vivien Leigh, who graced our screens as Scarlett O’Hara in Gone With The Wind in 1939, was a true inspiration for an

era of memorable fashion. Southern belles in flounces, feathers and fancy hats became the style du jour and the film - and its leading lady’s style - brought about a wave of bold and elegant ladylike dressing. Scarlett’s wardrobe was thanks to costume designer Roger Plunkett who was also responsible for the costumes for films including Showboat, Little Women and Seven Brides. As well as the green velvet gown made from her very own curtains, perhaps the most renowned of Scarlett’s wardrobe choices was the off-the-shoulder white and green ruffled gown she wore, not to a ball, but to a BBQ. Sadly though, today’s BBQ goers are more akin to a lightweight maxi gown than a voluminous frilly frock; however, there is without a doubt a “Scarlett” tint to today’s A-list red carpet starlets.

Breakfast at Tiffany’s ..

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Gone With The Wind ..

Annie Hall ..

Fast-forward to the 70s and a whole new era of fashion was to be inspired from the 1977 classic Annie Hall, whose eponymous character, played by actress Diane Keaton, started a penchant for rakish menswear, with Diane herself becoming not only Woody Allen’s on-screen muse, but an international style icon. Annie Hall’s style was throwaway and spirited, made up of slacks, vests, ties, loose jackets and fedoras, all worn in an effortlessly chic manner. Yes, Marlene Dietrech and Katherine Hepburn had previously introduced mannish fashion into our wardrobes back in the 30s and 40s, and YSL’s “Le Smoking” was an iconic menswear staple for women, but there was something fresh and fancy-free about Annie Hall’s approach to menswear as a way of expressing her free spirit. This carefree aesthetic has filtered onto the streets, down the runways and into the wardrobes of women around the world and is still very much an influence on today’s fashion scene. So when you next don a pair of brogues, iron your crisp white shirt or step out in your boyfriend jeans and blazer, remember Annie Hall and slip her a quiet thank you for allowing you to express yourself however you want – frills or no frills. Another trend, which has seen a recent resurgence, is the love of all things 80s, and there is really only one woman who sums up 1980s dressing to the max and that is the queen of Pop herself, Madonna. It was her role in the 1985 film Desperately Seeking Susan that put her firmly on the map as a true fashion icon and propelled a style that would define a decade. The movie’s director, Susan Siedelman, claimed she chose the up-and-coming music star for the role of Susan in light of her unique sense of style and bravado, which she channelled through the character’s wardrobe and which in turn propelled Madonna into the mainstream. The “Susan” look captured the spirits of young women around the world. Her rock star style of embellished jackets, lacy black tops, lashings of

Desperately Seeking Susan ..

necklaces and bangles, door knocker earrings, fingerless gloves, exposed bras and leotards worn as tops became the go-to look for the 80s style-savvy set. It is once again at the top of the style charts today. Jennifer Beals’ iconic leggings and slouchy grey sweatshirt worn in the 1983 film Flashdance also made a huge mark on fashion and the leg warmer-wearing kids of 1980s film Fame sure won a firm fashion following back then and today. There is no doubt the 80s was a very influential decade over fashion and its films played a crucial role. You only have to look at Rita Ora and Rihanna to see that the spirit of Susan and her fellow 80s film chums are still living strong nearly 30 years on. On to the 90s and it was out with the excess and in with the minimal thanks to 1994 classic Pulp Fiction and notably Uma Thurman’s chic noir style as gangster wife Mia Wallace. As well as her signature blunt bob, Uma’s black body con dress and killer heels, crisp white shirts and sleek black pants created an instant cult classic and one of cinema’s most recognisable looks. It was to be replicated in many stores and wardrobes for the discerning women of the 90s and set the precedence for today’s love affair with sleek minimalism. For teens of the 90s, it was 1995 film Clueless that would define their wardrobes. All around the world, teenage girls emulated the styles of Cher, Ti and Dionne. Cher, played by actress Alicia Silverstone, led the way for the trio that wore a concoction of schoolgirl skirts, plaid mini skirts, blazers, argyle sweaters, crop tops, berets, headbands and mini backpacks. These girls were cute, classic and sexy and a lot of the praise should go to fashion designer Jill Stuart, who rose to fame after several of her sportswear designs from her first collection were featured in the movie. Thanks to Clueless, the cute, naughty LA schoolgirl look offered a fresh approach to 90s dressing and an alternative to the popular grunge style of the decade.

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Pulp Fiction ..

Clueless ..

Sex & The City ..

Another name that has also shot to fashion fame thanks to the silver screen, is Patricia Field, the stylist and doyenne of design behind the enviable wardrobes of our favourite New York gals, Carrie Bradshaw and co. from the hit TV series and films Sex & The City. If there were ever four women who could inspire wardrobes and set new fashion trends globally, it is Carrie, Samantha, Charlotte and Miranda. The fabulous four made fashion fun again, from the moment the TV series first aired in 1994 to the 2008 and 2010 movies, and have continued to take everyday fashion to new heights, break style codes and bring us a new era of eclectic dressing where pretty much anything goes. Manolo Blahniks became the “it” shoes, namesake necklaces the accessory of choice (inspired by the iconic “Carrie” necklace, of course) and we had a free pass to wear exotic colour with animal print and combine silk, fur and tulle in one outfit. From Carrie’s infamous tutu from the opening credits of the TV show, the ruffled Versace couture gown she wears in Paris and the Halston one shoulder dress and turban worn in Abu Dhabi in the second movie; Carrie Bradshaw and her girls have given women the licence to once again dress up. When it comes to dressing up, there is nothing better than a good old fairytale to inspire fantastical fashion, and Tim Burton’s 2010 adaptation of the classic Victorian novel Alice In Wonderland brought a whimsical yet avant-garde wonder to our wardrobes. Frilly frocks and “Alice blue” dresses were everywhere for SS10 and fantasy fairytale dressing has been a mainstay on the fashion radar ever since. This summer’s floaty florals and flirty ruffles are testament to fairytale fashion’s long-standing popularity. The latest movie to set our fashion hearts racing though has been this summer’s stunning remake of The Great Gatsby, which has brought

The Great Gatsby ..

about a renewed love for all things 20s. Italian fashion designer Miuccia Prada was brought on board to work with costume designer Catherine Martin, adapting 40 dresses from her Miu Miu and Prada collections. One of which was the party dress worn by Carey Mulligan in the big party scenes, inspired by a dress from the Prada SS10 collection. This summer the glamour and glitz of the roaring 20s and styling of The Great Gatsby has held a strong influence over the catwalks, with dropped waistlines, pleats, razzle dazzle embellishment, ornate box clutches, Mary Janes and T-bar shoes as well as the art deco-style accessories popping up everywhere, from the high street to the designer boutiques. So what’s next? Shabby chic dressing, courtesy of the forthcoming remake of 1982 musical Annie, with Cameron Diaz as style inspiration cast as evil orphanage proprietor Miss Hannigan? Or could we be about to witness a new era of suave and illusive Christian Grey inspired men with the August 2014 release of 50 Shades of Grey? I know what I’d prefer…

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Alice In Wonderland ..

LO O K BO O K

SHORT STOP

Pitching in as a stylish alternative to summer’s maxi lengths are this season’s slick city shorts.

Debenhams

H&M .. Office

TOP TIP:

Pair with a billowing blouse to give a chic finish or add a pair of fun brogues and a midi top to lighten the look

Emporio Armani ..

Versace ..

CATWALK MOMENT: ASOS.com, DKNY at Net-A-Porter.com, Debenhams, La Redoute, Marks & Spencer, Boohoo.com, Hobbs, Proenza Schouler at Net-A-Porter.com, Boohoo.com, White Stuff, See by Chloé at Net-A-Porter.com, Splendid at Net-A-Porter.com

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Emporio Armani and Versace prove that shorts are an elegant alternative for both day and evening wear.

STROKE OF JEAN-IUS Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t restrict denim to just your jeans. Now is the time to think shorts, shirts and shoes. JACKET Superdry, SHIRT Urban Outfitters, SHIRT River Island, SHORTS Red Herring at Debenhams, SHIRT Dolce & Gabbana at MrPorter.com, SHIRT River Island, JACKET Gucci at MrPorter.com, JEANS River Island, SHORTS Orlebar Brown at MrPorter.com, SHORTS Oliver Spence at MrPorter.com, SHOES Rivieras at MrPorter.com, SHOES Converse at MrPorter.com

TOP TIP: Washed out and faded denim is the ideal way to inject some cool retro luxe into your summer style.

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fe at u r e

The Good Life: Going Green the Golden Way

Sur la Terre explores the world of sustainable luxury.

The Tucson Mountain Retreat shares - rather than exploits - the gifts of its unspoiled location, incorporating fixtures and design elements that minimise the physical impact that the home has on the environment, while at the same time enhancing its various boons. For example, the retreat boasts a 30,000-gallon rainwater harvesting system with an advanced filtration network that provides this most precious desert commodity throughout the entire household.

Using design elements similar to those once used by traditional Bedouin societies here in the Gulf, the retreat also maximises its geographic positioning while naturally eliminating its more detrimental environmental factors. Heat is reduced by laying out the house in a more linear way, along its east-west axis, while capturing prevailing southerly breezes and ushering them throughout the structure as a means of natural ventilation. Of course, sustainability is also about interaction; to â&#x20AC;&#x153;know

he luxury market is often blamed for many things: the broadening of the inequality gap, the furtherance of a society of excess and even as being a contributor to the destruction of the natural environment. True luxury, however, is not wasteful, nor is it invasive or unnecessarily consumptive. Real and lasting luxury is all about precision exclusivity and bespoke experiences, rather than mass production. Luxury is enduring, not disposable; therefore, to be luxurious, almost by its very definition, is to be sustainable. Allowing that this may be a more conceptual argument, many corners of the luxury market have begun to take very real, measurable steps in creating and fostering a much more conservational approach to merchandise, experiences and services. In a bid to do our part, then, Sur la Terre would like to present the following small yet powerful list of options that could make your life truly rich.

Tucson Mountain Retreat One of the more uncompromising luxuries anyone can experience in life is achieving a oneness with the natural world. However, we as a species still have not quite learned that balance. Especially invasive is the way we adapt our environment to suit our needs, rather than evolving alongside it. Architecture and private development can cause massive and longlasting damage to the natural world. That is exactly why we have fallen in love with the architectural design firm, DUST, and perhaps its most famous project, The Tucson Mountain Retreat. Located in the Arizona portion of the Sonoran desert, the retreat is not so much an architectural wonder hammered into its environs, as it is one urged, divined, even grown from the earth itself. Rendered primarily from an ancient building technique called â&#x20AC;&#x153;rammed earthâ&#x20AC;? (which, as the name implies, uses compressed soil to construct durable earthen, load-bearing walls), it looks as native as the adjacent arroyos, rock outcroppings and cacti that surround it.

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thyself,â&#x20AC;? one must also know that which surrounds him or her, which is why the parking area is 400 feet from the house and why it enjoys such an open, by-zone plan: these design cues urge an engagement with the natural world - something that is, particularly in modernised societies, increasingly being lost. Homes like the Tucson Mountain Retreat could and should be emulated here in the Middle East - particularly in more arid climates like those found in the Gulf - and to ignore its progressive environmental innovations would be a baffling sin of omission. To see more about the Tucson Mountain Retreat, visit the DUST firmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blog, www.blog.dustdb.com Of course, not everyone has the land to build such an exciting fulcrum of a life-better-lived, so instead, why not focus on making your time away from home that much more sustainable?

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Singita Luxury Safari For those not yet willing or financially able to commit to incorporate positive environmental changes to their permanent dwellings, there is an emerging market called “eco-tourism,” which allows travellers to engage directly and in a non-invasive way with the natural world. Paramount amongst these options is perhaps the Singita Luxury Safari experience. Meaning “place of miracles” in the Shangaan language, Singita is a family of luxury wildlife and safari reserves, which is truly wellnamed. Originally conceived as a single lodge in 1993, Singita has since expanded to almost a dozen different styles of luxurious accommodation across more than half a million acres throughout three different African nations, with each branch existing as its own stand-alone (not to mention stand-out) experience. In the words of its mission statement, “Singita’s enduring purpose is to conserve, preserve, and protect the miraculous places of which we are custodians. Our concessions, reserves and properties represent some of the most pristine wilderness areas on the continent and we are dedicated to maintaining these incredible pieces of earth for future generations.” Throughout its numerous sites, Singita has an even greater and more diverse number of different lodges, homes and camps to choose from, each one abounding with a luxury that is uncompromising, but one that is also pure; it beautifies its environment without molesting it with gilded excess. Even the most cursory look at www.singita.com affords an amazing tour of its varied accommodation options, each of which is set like a diamond within the natural setting of its particular environment, every one of which teems with life. Not only will your stay come peppered by run-ins with some of the more colourful members of the animal kingdom, being that they are given the same freedom to roam the grounds as you, but by signing up as a guest, you will have an even more directly positive impact on the surrounding environment. By staying at a Stingita property, you are contributing to local programmes which facilitate and enrich the communities of which they are a part. Whether it’s the “Touching the Earth Lightly” programme at Singita Kruger National Park, which provides funding for environmental maintenance, monitoring and ongoing research, or the perhaps more focused Singita Pamaushana Rhino Reintroduction Programme, each of the diverse and worthwhile systems will assist in preserving the natural world through luxurious means, rather than detracting from them. The list of awards and general praise for Singita is nigh-innumerable, if not certainly too lengthy to report within this article (a comprehensive list of its accolades can be found at www.singita.com/about/awards); suffice it to say, however, that Singita properties across Africa are wellregarded, not only for their commitment to luxury sustainability, but also for providing a bridge between Man and the natural world within an authentic, rewarding and indeed life-changing framework.

Sustainable luxury is not necessarily relegated to the realm of accommodation, of course. There are many products that have begun to crop up throughout the world that use, as their basis, the idea of a rather more long-lasting and positive luxury culture. Tropical Salvage is one such company that specialises in producing high-end goods with an equally high-minded sensibility.

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Tropical Salvage To those readers who may be unaware, clear-cut logging (which haphazardly uproots trees on a mass scale) effectively undermines the structural integrity of forests, thus allowing erosion and the danger of resultant flooding, which in turn destroys the fragile ecosystem by robbing it of life, be that endangered animals or rare species of medicinal plants. That is just one of the potentially world-threatening dangers involved in careless methods of deforestation, and why Timothy O’Brien founded Tropical Salvage in the first place. His visit to Gunung Lueser National Park in West Sumatra in 1998 left him aghast. After coming face to face with the shambolic remains of some particularly wasteful deforestation, he would go on to found Tropical Salvage with the keenly-focused remit of finding, excavating and utilising wild-growth, felled, buried and reclaimed wood found in the Indonesian islands of Java and Borneo to create minimalist, understated, one-of-a-kind household furniture items. The diverse catalogue at Tropical Salvage includes everything from tastefully-carved bureaus and bed frames, to naturally-varnished entertainment stands and beverage towers, to gorgeous chests, chairs and benches. Meanwhile, organisations like the Jepara Forest Conservancy are simultaneously funded in their important work to restore forests, facilitate environmental education and dialogue, and embolden local communities to elicit change themselves. Keen observers will note that while they are unquestionably beautiful, the wares at Tropical Salvage may also appear misshapen, with small, natural or previously manmade flaws peeking subtly through the surface of the wood. Explains the company mandate: “We embrace idiosyncrasies that history has fixed into our salvaged woods: marks from nails, old bore holes from insects [...] intense grain colours caused by long immersion in mineral-murky rivers [...] These characteristics are all part of the wood’s rich history and provoke our wonder and respect.”

This is a luxury that adopts what is known in Japan as the Wabi-sabi school of thought, which states that there is beauty in the transience of life, and in the embrace of imperfection, and thus, we would argue, exclusivity. Much of the wood re-beautified by the company has been carbon-dated at anywhere between 700 to 1,000 years old, making it a unique, time-tested collaboration between man and nature. Tropical Salvage is a celebration of a that less-invasive harmony; it appreciates a functional body that can still stand resplendent in a skin which affords the wealth of a millennia of stories; grizzled with a resounding depth that is mirrored in its scars, earned as they have been through the long passage of time. This is luxury with character, and we couldn’t love it more. To read more about O’Brien and the journey he and the artisans of Tropical Salvage continue to undertake, visit tropicalsalvage.com These are but a few of the increasingly prevalent ways that prove luxury can be beautiful, bespoke and elegant, while at the same time being environmentally sensitive, sustainable and ethically true. But the story doesn’t stop there! To see more of Sur la Terre Arabia’s top pics for “going green the golden way,” visit www.surlaterre.me, where you will find a few more examples of how to live a rather richer luxurious life.

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H vitserk u r Rock , the Northern coast of Iceland

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Infiniti FX50: Sebastian Fettled 76

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Modern F1 drivers have a tough schedule but it’s nothing compared to being a VIP guest as Damien Reid discovered with Infiniti. The very next morning after the Monaco Grand Prix he had to “test” the latest product with triple F1 world champion Sebastian Vettel. It’s just one job after another.

here was some quiet sniggering amongst the senior Infiniti staff as they watched the pearlescent white, Infiniti FX50 roll down pit lane on a sunny day at the Le Castellet circuit in southern France before I climbed out of the passenger’s seat.

Behind the wheel was three-time Formula One World Champion, Sebastian Vettel, who less than 24 hours earlier was using every ounce of talent gifted to him to find a way past the silver Mercedes of Nico Rosberg so he could tick off one goal that has thus far eluded him, victory in the Monaco Formula One Grand Prix. Yet here he was, at a quiet and windy track, seemingly a million miles from the adulation of race fans, the hundreds of media and the champagne bubbles he sprayed over the podium the day before for his second place finish in the world’s most glamorous race, being politely chastised by the track’s manager for doing doughnuts across the run off area of their precious tarmac. Did someone not tell those in race control that it wasn’t Henri-frommaintenance cutting loose in the Citroen van on his way to a baguette in the canteen, but one of the most calculating, successful F1 racers of our time? Perhaps they should pour resin over that piece of scrap tarmac, seal the marks for posterity and get him to autograph it instead of telling him he’s been a naughty boy.

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He is only 26, I guess, and I remember being a bit reckless like that when I was his age. The difference is, he knows what he’s doing and he was doing it to show me, a learned colleague of the media, just how good this latest Infiniti FX50 which bears his name, really is. The Red Bull Racing driver spent the day evaluating the latest Infiniti road cars and showing off for a couple of lucky journos, but earlier that morning before we arrived, he was on track accompanied by experts from Infiniti’s European Dynamic Performance Team based at the company’s development centres in Germany and Spain, testing a whole range of competitors products. The life of an F1 driver, even one who almost claimed victory in the Monaco Grand Prix, doesn’t have room for post-race partying these days, especially when they’ve also just started a new job, as Seb has, as Infiniti’s Director of Performance. “As new Infiniti cars are created, it is really important for us to develop them with their own consistent driving style, so it has been really useful to be able to drive so many cars hard, back-to-back on the same track,” said Vettel. “Similar to Formula One cars, it’s interesting to feel how different some are configured for steering response and braking as well as driver assistance features like ESP and Traction Control. Getting these things right is what makes a good car great,” he added. His role as Director of Performance will allow him to work closely with the company to provide feedback about what he wants and expects from a premium, performance

road car which will then go into developing the driving and performance attributes of the next generation of Q cars. Already he has played a key role in developing the current vehicle line-up, most notably with the FX Vettel edition and the all-new Q50 sedan. “The enhanced role Sebastian has taken on is another step in the integration of our Formula One program into the product development process,” Infiniti President, Johan de Nysschen said. “His uncanny sensitivity to chassis set-up has made him very popular with our development engineers who relish the opportunity to achieve great precision in suspension, braking and steering calibration,” he added. This limited edition FX50 is a unique collaboration between Vettel and Infiniti’s Chief Creative Officer, Shiro Nakamura, which, apart from the throaty 5-litre V8, features some nifty aero tweaks signed off by Seb himself. Straight after the Japanese Grand Prix last year, he drove the first vehicle to leave the production line at Infiniti’s global manufacturing plant in Tochigi, Japan. “I got my first true feel for the production version in Japan just before the Grand Prix there and was impressed with it. Today it’s been great to meet everyone and to see the smiles on their faces,” he said.

"Just in case you forget you’re in a Vettel fettled SUV, there’s a metal plate on the centre console which features the world champion's signature." . sur la terre . in motion .

Performance mods include a new exhaust system and some wizardry in the engine management system department as well as taller gearing to help it hit its 300kmh target, yet it still gets from zero to 100kmh quicker than the regular version it’s based on. Unveiled at the Frankfurt motor show less than six months after the idea was first mooted during a casual conversation between Vettel and senior staff including Nakamura-san at the Geneva motor show, the Infiniti FX50 Sebastian Vettel, to give it its full name, is Infiniti’s fastest car produced to date. It began life as the range topping FX50 S Premium which already features lightweight components and active rear wheel steering as standard but now includes more power, lower weight, a de-restricted top speed, taller gearing, increased downforce, lower and stiffer suspension. “It’s great fun to drive and I’ve been driving it a lot,” he says of his eponymous car, adding: “but of course, it could go a little faster.” Racers will be racers I guess. "I drive a lot in Germany on motorways that have no speed limits and have enjoyed taking it around the Nürburgring Nordschleife. Driving at high speed is part of my life but as well as a higher top speed I wanted better stability which meant some work on the aerodynamics. It is a tribute to the standard FX that achieving all my targets required so few changes.” One of its most visual features is the carbon fibre rear wing which has managed to both reduce lift and cut through the air more efficiently at the same time. Co-efficient of

lift is 30 percent better than the regular FX 50 S Premium while the co-efficient of drag has been reduced by five percent, resulting in less fuel burnt and better traction over the rear wheels. Even the door mirror housings have been shaped to increase downforce. “Usually I have hundreds of engineers building one car just for me, so it’s fantastic to be able to contribute to the design of a car. The result is something I am very proud to have my name on. It is all I hoped for, 300kmh, plenty of downforce, but I can still fit my mountain bike in the back and it is totally exclusive.” Carbon is used for the splitter, sills, front grille, mirror covers and rear diffuser, trimming the weight of what is already one of the lighter SUVs in its size class. Design of the splitter and diffuser is inspired by the F1 car, as is the central rear fog light which mimics the placement of the F1 car’s rear rain light.

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Also, just in case you forget you’re in a Vettel fettled SUV, there’s a metal plate on the centre console which features the world champion's signature. My time in the passenger’s seat of the FX50 was all to brief as we flew out of pit lane, using all 420bhp from its 5-litre V8, the same V8 that’s currently used in the Australian V8 Supercar racing series under the hood of the bespoke Nissan Altimas run by Nissan Australia, and headlong into turn one. Forgetting that even though it’s been on a diet, it still weighs a hefty 2049kg, the FX50 stuck like glue, kept firmly planted despite the usual body roll you would expect from a car with such a high centre of gravity and powered its way off the turn and down the back straight. Its 300kmh top speed was never an option as the second gear right hand corner approached far too quickly and was swiftly followed by a series of leftright combinations. Seb did everything to try to get the back end to break out and drift it through the turns but it was a futile task, the FX50 refused to act up and stayed on the straight and narrow. Inside, it was quiet and oddly, I wasn’t gasping in excitement or overwhelmed by adrenalin as the car just seemed to do its job. Seb was smiling but you got the impression that on this day he was beaten by a machine cast from his own hands. Compared to hustling the RBR9 race car around the demanding principality track an inch off Rosberg’s rear the day before, it’s safe to say Seb found it a bit mundane as well. Which is where our doughnuts came in to play. Ever the competitor, he was not going to let this car defeat him, some how, some way he was going to make this FX50 dance to his tune and tear up a bit of precious Ecclestone-owned tarmac. “Right, I think we can try something here,” he calmly said not knowing that at the same time race control was radioing to the pits informing them that tyre screeching doughnuts would not be part of the day’s agenda.

The wheels are 21-inch black multi spoke alloys with silver rims that save weight over the standard 21-inch FX50 wheel. It’s all part of the process which has resulted in a 49kg weight reduction compared to the regular model. Sitting 20 millimetres lower than the conventional model and even more distinctive with new LED daytime running lights set just below the front bumper, the look enhances its sports car-like proportions along with a smoked tint for the front indicators and tail lights. All this has been capped off visually with Seb Vettel logos on both sides and at the rear. Before setting off for our soon-to-be infamous lap of the Bernie Ecclestone-owned, Paul Ricard circuit in Le Castellet, there was time to have a look around the interior and immediately noticeable was the genuine black carbon - not a transfer as some other manufacturers like to use - but real carbon veneer on the doors and centre console. Highlights that would normally be silver chrome on the Premium model are set off in a black chrome finish, while in true F1 style, Alcantara is used on the steering wheel and gearshift paddles. The front seats are made exclusively for the Vettel wagon offering extra support and are covered in black quilted suede cloth topped off by the SV logo in the headrests and capped by contrasting stitching in the Infiniti corporate colour of purple. That wouldn’t be my choice, but there you go. The material is also used on the pillars, roof lining and sun visors.

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Apparently as that command was issued before it had time to be relayed to Seb in the car, the white FX50 went into a delicately choreographed series of pirouettes in the run off area on the approach to the front straight. Once, twice we danced around in a loop with white smoke billowing from the rear tyres when Vettel stops. “Wait, wait, I’ll try something else.” He locks it in low, makes sure all traction control systems are off, turns full lock then plants the right foot with the same result before straightening up and heading into pit lane to be cautioned – in a very friendly way of course for his antics. It seems he’s developed the FX50 a little too well as it had so much grip, it took a triple world champ everything he had to fry some meat off the tyres. I’m sure it went down in his mental notes as he develops the next batch of hot Infiniti road cars which will include a premium entry compact model to take on the BMW 1-Series and Audi A3 and is expected to be produced in Europe from 2015. It will probably be something the guy in race control will buy in four years time. I wonder if he thought of that when he told Seb to stop?

The Namesake Laura Hamilton embarks on her first automotive test drive and finds that the Mecedes-Benz A-Class 250 may look masculine, but has a feminine heart.

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t’s often raining in car adverts. The water splashes the car’s contours, drawing attention to the smooth curves of the model, evoking sensuality, femininity and desire, being both suggestive and aspirational. These ads mainly appeal to men. The motoring world is dominated by men, most motoring journalists are of the male gender, I’d hazard a guess that those writing the ads have both X and Y chromosomes; after all, driving is considered a “masculine” pastime. Plus, of course, since the Mad Men era, we all know what sells (wink wink), but treating a car with a leer, in my humble opinion, is a little disingenuous. Considering women buy and drive cars, too, I think this divide is antiquated. Women appreciate cars, even if it’s

not always in the semi-obsessive way men do. I like to think that men buy accessories for their cars in the same vein that women get a manicure (which a lot of men do, too, I hasten to add). The whole gender issue was highlighted when one of the three female journalists on the Dubai press trip opined that the new Mercedes A-Class would not appeal to women, because of the fire engine red seat belts and stitching. Then again, the journalist in question looked like the kind of person who would drive around in a violently pink Mini Cooper - the kind that has eyelashes on the headlights - without any hint of irony or shame. Where are the women in this equation? Women driving is a contentious subject, some men derisively snort and make jokes about us behind the wheel and some women roll their eyes when men start waxing lyrical about Jeremy Clarkson’s illustrious opinions (personally, I start foaming at the mouth when I hear his voice, but each to our own bigotries). At the end of the day, driving means freedom, especially in this part of the world where there are limited transport options, but it’s still considered a man’s domain. If I were to describe Mercedes-Benz in one word, it would be “masculine,” however much I dislike assigning gender to characteristics or indeed, cars. And yet, Mercedes-Benz was named after a woman. Interesting.

A Little Background Gottlieb Daimler and Carl Benz invented the automobile in 1886, when Henry Ford was just a whippersnapper. However, the direction of the automobile industry was really driven by a man called Emil Jellinek, whom history has largely forgotten. He was the original petrol head, with a need for speed and to press pedal to metal, so when he got word of what Benz and Daimler were up to, he travelled across the country to buy a Daimler. The wealthy and entrepreneurial Jellinek moved in high circles, and was in a position to help out his new friends; the diplomat promoted the newfangled invention to his vast social group and eventually became the sole seller.

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It was Jellinek, rather than his daughter Mercédès, who had the more tangible influence on the evolution of the automotive industry, in that he held a lot of sway with Daimler and Benz, convincing them that the future of the car was racing: speed and elegance, he thought, should be their aim. “If I cannot obtain more from an automobile than from a coach and horses,” he said, “I might as well go back to horses!" He was severely disappointed with the 24-km/h speed that cars were limited to at the end of the 19th century, and demanded a motor be built that could reach an outrageous 40km/h. Jellinek convinced Daimler to enter racing week in Nice in 1899 under the pseudonym “Monsieur Mercedes” and that seemed to whet an appetite in Daimler for speed or at least opened his eyes to new possibilities, and also perhaps a bit of glamour. Jellinek convinced DaimlerMotoren-Gesellschaft (DMG) to build a new vehicle and engine and call it the Daimler-Mercedes. Why his daughter’s name rather than his own? Perhaps this is an early example of rebranding - even in German, a language known for its compound nouns, the DMG name hardly rolls off the tongue and isn’t as evocative of luxury as “Mercedes.” From 1901 onwards, all the cars were named after her and the Jellinek family officially changed its name to Jellinek-Mercedes to capitalise on its success.

What’s in a Name? According to Shakespeare, a rose by any other name would smell as sweet, but would a Mercedes with any other name have the same allure? Would car enthusiasts covet the Daimler-Motoren-Gesellschaft in the same way they do the Mercedes? Oh lord, won’t you buy me a Daimler-Motoren-Gesellschaft? It doesn’t quite have the same effect. Mercédès herself had a short but intense life. The daughter of a rich and driven father, she grew up on luxury yachts,

married into aristocracy and for a while, everything seemed golden. But when Jellinek fell out with Daimler, the family fortunes sank, and his attempts to create a new car called Maja, after his other daughter, failed badly - he could not recreate his previous success. Things went from bad to worse - Jellinek was suspected of espionage during the Great War, lost his property and died shortly thereafter. Mercédès then left her husband and children to live with a penniless sculptor called Baron Rudolf Weigl, who passed away a short time later. The headstrong Mercédès didn’t reach her 40th birthday and died in Vienna. You probably didn’t know this tragic backstory as it’s not common knowledge. In fact it was unknown until fairly recently if Mercédès was actually her real name, or just a nickname, as her life was shrouded in mystery until her grandchildren came to light and revealed old family photos. The name Mercedes conjures up thoughts of The Count of

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Monte Cristo’s long lost love, a beautiful woman, but it’s also a Spanish name meaning “mercy.” In short, it is evocative of feminine beauty, luxury and majesty. Artists have their muses, ships have historically been named after women and the most famous automobile in the world was named after someone’s daughter. That name, Mercedes, regardless of its past, has stuck and accompanied the Mercedes-Benz brand throughout its success for over a century.

What Would Mercédès be Driving Now? When the afore-mentioned female journalist commented that the new A-Class 250 would not appeal to women, she was unaware of the lurking femininity behind the Mercedes brand. If Mercédès was around now, she would drive her namesake with pride, whizzing around town in the new A-Class 250. Equally, her old man would be happy with the speed, it has 211 horsepower and can go from 0-100mph in 6.6 seconds, which would make Jellinek’s eyes light up with glee and throw away his jodhpurs forever. As for the red details, the stitching, seat belts, framed SLS AMG style air vents and the marker rings on the headlamps - red is the colour of adventure and I think they make for an androgynous car, suited for the young, fun, city dweller (or anyone going through a mid-life crisis, but the less about those poor souls, the better), who appreciates speed, agility and performance, as well as wanting a rather handsome car. When I sped around Dubai’s motorways, the worry that the other motoring journalist in the passenger seat would be judging me faded into a dream. For a novice like myself, it handled perfectly, and I had none of the awkward getting-to-know-you stage I usually have when I test drive something fancy. Mercedes’ trademark smoothness came out in full force. My father is a Mercedes man through and through, and what I remember most from childhood trips to the countryside in his W124 model from the early 90s was the dearth of noise, shudders and bumps - the effortless glide. The silent engine gave the smoothest ride I’ve ever had in a car. This is not a car for those who want to hear the engine roar, and feel adrenaline in their veins. This is the car for someone who likes being in control, who likes to float over tarmac as easy as the blade of a skate cuts through an ice rink. Driving in Dubai (which doesn’t even compare to the “adventure” that is Doha) was surprisingly easy. The good people at Mercedes-Benz had organised a little assault course for us to test the specs of the new model. Cones were dotted about an empty car park, as I was

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"If Mercédès was around now, she would drive her namesake with pride, whizzing around town in the new A-Class 250."

partnered with a Jordanian journalist with an appetite for sharp turns and sudden stops. I can safely attest that the fire engine red seat belts work. I went easy on the new A Class as the husks of dead cars that litter the sides of roads in Doha have instilled in me a sense of road safety that nothing can break, not even the childish glee of testing the limits of a brand spanking new Mercedes. Nevertheless, it passed with flying colours. For safety purposes, I drive a monster of a car that I have to climb a ladder to get into, but if I lived in a city where the roads weren’t peppered with holes and I didn’t have to drive an SUV, then I would want the A-Class 250. Driving around Dubai’s motorways was like a holiday compared to navigating the potholes and reckless drivers that pepper Doha’s labyrinthine lanes. I wasn’t a big fan of the plastic-y interior, but the sporty and powerful aesthetic more than makes up for it. Most of all, there’s something terribly grand and powerful about a woman commanding a masculine car.

J ETSET

A Pillar Of Luxury

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James McCarthy’s ongoing journey around London’s iconic hotels continues with a two-night stay at The Corinthia.

he Corinthian Order is listed as one of three principal classical orders of ancient Greek and Roman architecture, predominantly centred around the use of pillars, columns and plinths. It is fitting, then, that one of London’s newest hotels, The Corinthia, is not only a sentinel of luxury living in the heart of London, but a modern tour de force of classic interior design. From the immense, “Full Moon” Baccarat chandelier that dominates the atrium of the hotel to the pillar-lined, vaulted ceilings of the Massimo signature restaurant, you are left in little doubt that the century-old building that houses The Corinthia has been transformed into a truly grand hotel for the 21st century. The 125-year old building has not only been revived and rejuvenated, but the tenancy of The Corinthia brings the monolithic Whitehall structure’s story full circle.

Originally, the corner building, which juts like a sandstone arrowhead aimed at the South Bank, was built to house the Hôtel Métropole, an opulent and ornate property built and designed very much in a Parisian style. Boasting over 600 rooms, it was a beacon of high society, with its exquisite balls and lavish, aristocratic parties. However, in 1936, in the shadow of looming war, the building was bought by the Ministry of Defence. Churchill listened to Big Ben strike on Armistice Day from one of its windows, while operatives of MI9 plotted and masterminded jailbreaks from prisoner of war camps all over Europe from within its porticos. Room 801, apparently, is where the government’s records of UFO sightings were housed. After being put up for sale in 2007, within four years, in April 2011, an elegantly-attired footman in top hat and tails, opened the doors for the first time in three-quarters of a century to once again welcome hotel guests, this time to the Corinthia London.

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A greeting I sadly missed when I arrived through the back door of the hotel. The Corinthia sits a mere three minute stroll from Embankment tube station, meaning that the underground journey from Heathrow’s terminal four is relatively painless with just a single change at South Kensington. However, as you approach the hotel from the station, it is easy to miss the sleepy Whitehall street which spears off the main road, which is where the front entrance is situated. The rear entrance is slightly less grandiose and sans doorman, but opens directly onto the main thoroughfare of Northumberland Avenue. I waited for several minutes for the revolving door to rotate automatically, before realising I wasn’t in Qatar anymore. Eventually, I clambered my way through manually and set about subjecting the tea-taking masses to my bedraggled, tail-end-of-10-hours-travel visage as I lumbered through the dome-ceilinged, green-carpeted and marble-adorned atrium to the reception at the other side.

In fact, it was the exact tonic to wash away the cobwebs of my long journey and to prepare for my evening’s repast at the Massimo Restaurant and Oyster Bar. After a refreshing shower, I lounged languidly in the tub, while watching the latest sports news on the Lowe LCD TV which was built in to the bathroom wall opposite - a perfect example of how GA Design, the company tasked with the interior renovations, has artfully blended many of the original fixtures and fittings like window frames, columns, banisters and ceiling decorations, with 21st century technology to create a truly contemporary hotel.

It gave me plenty of opportunity, while avoiding tables and ornate trays filled with delicate cakes, to admire Chifik Gamsi’s masterpiece, the afore-mentioned “Full Moon” chandelier. It is the largest of its kind and consists of no less than 1,001 crystal baubles in varying sizes. The signature red crystal of the Baccarat brand nestles in the heart of the imposing piece, which itself hangs in bosom of the domed glass ceiling. I had little time to ponder the vast amount of Arabic symbolism of the piece, before a gentleman in a smart velvet-collared city coat happily took my bags and I was led to a grand marble reception desk overlooked by a massive bronze relief of the river Thames. I was met by the elegant Marketing Coordinator, Henrietta Low, who cheerfully gave me a brief overview of the facilities, including the only Harrods concession you

will find in any hotel in the world, before showing me to my well-appointed executive room on the fifth floor. While it may have not been the most prestigious room in a hotel boasting 36 luxury suites and seven two-storey penthouse apartments (complete with turrets, rooftop terraces offering sweeping vistas of the Thames and private elevators), with many of the 600 guest rooms and offices from the old Métropole and MoD days combined to create 251 larger living spaces (excluding the suites and penthouses), it was nothing less than sumptuous. With a walk-in wardrobe, a Calcutta marble-adorned bathroom bigger than my Doha apartment, replete with stand alone tub and vast rain shower, as well as a bed that you could comfortably park at least two Humvees in, it was the perfect residence for my brief stay.

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Fully recharged after all of that, followed by a solid nap on the chaise lounge, it was time to get suited and booted for dinner. I headed down to the courtyard, an oasis of calm in the middle of a hectic city with a full open fireplace and rockeries sprouting trees, for a coffee and an aperitif while I awaited my guest for dinner. After exchanging the time of day with none other than international mega-star and founding member of The Black Eyed Peas, Will.I.Am, who was relaxing on one of the sofas with two of his entourage, my guest arrived and we made our way to dinner. The room, designed by David Collins Studio, is dominated by three imposing spherical chandeliers and dramatic striped columns, very much in the Corinthian Order style, that seemingly support the beautiful vaulted ceiling and form a colonnade through the room to the critically-acclaimed oyster bar. The polished hardwood floor beautifully sets off the colour-pallette of green and shades of tan, augmented by elements of pewter, nickel and brass - including the stylishly contemporary dinner service and cutlery.

Amidst a discussion about the merits of print media in the digital age, my dinner companion opted for four of the signature Irish Oysters as a starter, while I went down an oft-travelled route and selected the foie gras, all of which was paired with a fantastically complimentary wine choice, made personally by the sommelier. The Massimo menu has a distinctly Italian flavour, though a better description of the diversity of dishes would be Mediterranean cuisine. The main course was a tough choice, with my guest settling on the rack of lamb, which was cooked and seasoned to perfection. I went distinctly Azzuri, choosing a pasta dish with a rich and meaty rabbit ragu. Conversation waned as we both tucked in to our respectively delicious meals while, once again, the excellent choice of libation provided by the sommelier added warmth and body to the wonderful flavours of the food.

finally resigned myself to the fact that what I was looking for was out of stock and it was time to head back to the Corinthia. Fortunately, the Corinthia is home to a flagship ESPA Life spa, an ideal place to work out some of the stress and strain of failing to achieve my consumerist goal. Spread over four floors of the hotel, the ESPA Life offers a full suite of services and facilities including customised massages, a thermal floor with vitality pool, amphitheatre sauna, ice fountains, marble heated loungers and private sleep pods, as well a full-size indoor swimming pool, hair salon and nail bar. It even has a healthy option cafe. A full, modern gymnasium is also included, though anyone who knows me will not be expecting an indepth review of that particular offering.

"You are left in little doubt that the century-old building that houses the Corinthia has been transformed into a truly grand hotel for the 21st century."

I had been booked in for a customised massage and, normally, I am not a massage kind of guy.

In very much the Mediterranean tradition, we were not left wanting. Satiated and satisfied, we retired, once more, to the courtyard for a post meal 18-year-old Macallan, a coffee and a cigarette, while we resumed our animated conversation about the future of the Fourth Estate. Convinced we werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t going to reach a conclusion, we decided to leave the hotel and make the short walk to The Strand in search of a few late evening drinks. The following morning, after a long lie-in and a lavish breakfast, I decided to take the most advantage of the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fantastic location and headed to the West End for a bit of shopping. A few short tube stops later, and I was traversing the wide boulevard of Regent Street to Picadilly Circus. Two hours later, after wandering fruitlessly around Oxford Street, Tottenham Court Road and Carnaby Street, I

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mobile phone network capability when I needed it the most to organise, with militarystyle precision, the big surprise entrance to the 72nd floor of the The Shard, didn’t phase me. That much.

The idea of a stranger laying hands on my naked flesh is not one that relaxes me. However, Kirsty, an ESPA veteran who moved from the Gleneagles hotel to the Corinthia when it opened, calmed my fears with her lilting Scottish brogue and got to work on my knotted back.

As the warmth of the hot, polished volcanic stones penetrated deep into the muscle tissues of my shoulders, back, arms and hands I drifted in and out of a relaxed sleep, barely even flinching when she undertook the deep therapy scalp massage.

I was immediately supplicant, her small, but strong hands grinding and caressing my broken down body, as the scent of essential oils calmed my bedraggled mind. As I drifted in and out of a content consciousness, I could have sworn that my lovely Scottish therapist had either transmogrified into an octopus or had some strange superpower that could summon limbs at will, as it certainly felt like there were multiple hands kneading my my pallid skin. It was, however, just down to her expert dexterity and sleight of hand (and possibly some elbows), which not only covered the whole pinky expanse of my battered muscles, but also seemed to speed up time.

The hour seemed to melt into mere minutes and the treatment hardly seemed to have started before it was finished, such was the complete relaxation I was feeling. Before I floated back to my room with limbs and body feeling light and slightly floppy, Kirsty explained that, owing to my deskbound job, I would do well to see an osteopath, a service which, remarkably, the hotel can also provide.

As members of my family gathered in reception to help fulfil the true purpose of my visit - a 70th birthday surprise for my mother - I was able to approach the evening free of stress and worry. Even losing all

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Returning back to the hotel that evening, I enquired about my check-out the following day, revealing perhaps the true depth of the service offered by the hotel. I was happily informed that I could check out any time I liked, meaning that I would not be rushed in the morning and, perhaps more importantly, I could head to the Famous Three Kings pub in West Kensington to meet my brother and his girlfriend for the crucial first rugby match between the British & Irish Lions and Australia without having to worry about the time. “We like to be flexible to fit our guests’ plans,” the receptionist beamed. That next day, following a nail-biting victory in the rugby, my brother, his better half and I bade farewell to F3K and it’s affable landord, Lee, and joyously made our way back to the Corinthia to collect my belongings, enjoy one last iced latte and regale the eager doormen with a blow-by-blow account of the game. Trading the Corinthia’s opulent embrace for my brother’s sofa in Basingstoke was tough, but I did so safe in the knowledge that, like the Corinthian Order itself, the eponymous hotel will stand as a pillar of the hospitality landscape in Britain’s great capital for many years to come - allowing me plenty of time to find the funds for a night in one of the penthouses.

fa s hio n

A day at the country club Sensual materials, pseudo-relaxed silhouettes and sparkling jewellery, this summer signals the return an age of elegance. Photographed by Marc Ninghetto Photo assistant: Timothée Jeannotat Fashion styled by Mélanie Hearnden Deco styled by Laurence Baud www.art-your-home.com Hair & make-up by Christophe Durand (Le Bal des Créateurs) Hair & make-up assistant: Jonathan Lanfrit www.lebaldescreateurs.wordpress.com Model: Aga and Gautier from VIP Models Special thanks to Country Club Geneva, Mr. Frédéric Bouvier and the team www.countryclubgeneva.ch T. 022 959 79 00 info @ countryclubclubgeneva.ch

Printed blouse by Missoni (Bon Génie Geneva), “Gipsy” white leather belt by Hermès, Yellow skirt by Comptoir, des Cotonniers (Globus Geneva), “Anouk” pink shoes by Jimmy Choo, Yellow and white diamond earrings by Graff, “Wave” bracelet in white gold and white round diamonds by Graff Sun lounger “Mistral” by Roda, design by Rodolfo Dordoni (Arcadia Geneva) Plants, Cyril for Trend Geneva

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HER: Silk dress by Dior, Suede shoes by Gaspard Yurkievich (La Muse Geneva), Spinnakers scarf by Hermès,“Madagascar” necklace by Gübelin, Pink gold, diamonds and fine stones bracelet by Cartier, Pink gold, diamonds and fine stones earrings by Cartier, “Brilliant” watch by Jacob&Co Floor Rocker “Fedro” by Dedon, design by Lorenza Bozzoli (Artopia Geneva) HIM: Black and white tee-shirt by Sandro, Golfer trousers by Gaspard Yurkievich (La Muse Geneva), Basket by Hermès, “Ocean Sport” chrono watch by Harry Winston

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Black top by Sandro, Kimono by Prada, Black leather belt by Isabel Benenato (Apollinaire Geneva), Printed organza skirt by Christopher Kane (Apollinaire Geneva), Shoes by Fendi, “Magic Alhambra” necklace in gold and malachite by Van Cleef & Arpels, “Vintage Alhambra” bracelet in gold and cornelian by Van Cleef & Arpels, “Colpo di Fulmine” ring in pink gold, amethyst and ruby by Pomellat (Les Ambassadeurs Geneva)

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“Intoxe” pink swimsuit by Erès, Necklace in white gold and emeralds by Benoit de Gorski, “Madagascar” spinell and tourmaline bracelet by Gübelin, Pink gold, morganite and diamonds ring by Ponti Joaillier Geneva, Rose gold with pink sapphires earrings by Benoit de Gorski

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HER: Violet silk top by Toupy (Bon Génie Geneva), White lace short by N°21 (Sab’s Geneva), “Galet” sandals by Hermès Necklace in pink gold and white quartz by , Pasquale Bruni (Les Ambassadeurs Geneva), “Pan di Zucchero” bracelets with a superposition of fine stones on pink gold by Vhernier, “Floral” shopping bag by Gucci HIM: Flowered swimsuit by Massimo Dutti, Leather tong by Hermès, “Ghost” watch by Jacob&Co Lounge chair “Dansk” by Gloster, design by Philip Behrens , (Artopia Geneva), Vases “Cutting” (Ligne Roset), Plants, Cyril for Trend Geneva

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“Catalina” swimsuit by Hermès Yellow short by IKKS (15TER Geneva) “Manila” sandals by Visconti du Réau Earrings by Djula (Ponti Joaillier Geneva) Jackie Onassis gold cuff by Van Cleef & Arpels “Pan di Zucchero” ring with a superposition of imperial jade on pink gold by Vhernier “Gil” shopping bag by Halaby (La Muse Geneva) Chairs and footstool “Papilio” by B&B Italia, design by Naoto Fukasawa (Artopia Geneva) Baskets, large and small models by Bidum (Ligne Roset) Plants, Cyril for Trend Geneva

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HER: White dress by N°21 (Sab’s Geneva), Golfer shoes by Hermès, Hat by Chanel, White mother of pearl and diamonds earrings by Bogh’Art, “Khesis” watch by Chaumet (Bijouterie Kunz Geneva), “Raani” ring by Repossi (Bijouterie Kunz Geneva), Lamb leather and silk jacket by Hermès HIM: White jacket by Fendi, Striped tee-shirt by Sandro, Jogging by Paul Smith (15TER Geneva), Shoes by Lacoste, “White vision” watch by Technomarine Chairs “Cabrio” in vinyl by Living Divani, design by Piero Lisoni (Arcadia Geneva), Abstract dog “Puppy” by Magis, design, by Eero Aarnio (Arcadia Geneva)

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Flowered shirt by Paul Smith (15TER Geneva) “Genève” navy blue chino by Berence Navy suede basket by Paul Smith (15TER Geneva) Worldtimer watch by Frédérique Constant (Maverick Geneva)

Swivel chairs “Chair One” by Magis, design Konstantin Grcic (Arcadia Geneva) Portable light in black “May-Day” by Flos, design Konstantin Grcic (Arcadia Geneva)

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Black swimsuit by Chanel “Tahiti” printed chino by Hermès “Ursula” ankle-strap blue sandals by Gucci Diamond inlaid into blue opal earrings by Bogh’Art Diamond inlaid into blue opal necklace by Bogh’Art Diamond inlaid into blue opal ring by Bogh’Art “Premier Feathers” quartz watch by Harry Winston Footstool and basket “Nido” by Paola Lenti (Artopia Geneva)

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H along Bay from titop island, V ietnam

ho r izo n s

Salalah: The Gulf's secret Garden Welcome to the region’s best kept secret - khareef season in Salalah, Oman.

The Sea It sounded like a dragon. We inched nearer, afraid to reach the precipice, but curiosity drew us on. The waves were crashing ferociously on the rocks below, and our guide Suhail was smiling knowingly at us, and proudly at the majestic and slightly scary sight. We had teetered along the edge of the mountain to see this, overwhelmed by the sheer size and the noise of the Arabian Sea and the height of the rock beside us, which looked like a giant pile of frankincense - a shock, after driving through the flat Omani desert. We turned a corner and walked across the cliff top towards the sea... and the sudden drop. With a howl, water shot twenty feet into the air through the blowhole and we shrieked in surprise and fear, brine spraying our face. I’ve never seen anything like it in the Arabian Gulf. But then, Marneef Cave is just one of many wonders of Oman. It may be surprising to those of us familiar with the flat deserts of the Gulf, to find that the sparsely populated Sultanate of Oman breaks the mould, but to plagiarise Hugh MacDiarmid, Oman small? Our multiform, our infinite Oman, small? With towering sand dunes in one corner (the highest in the world, Suhail told us), and rocky mountains peppered with small garden oases that serve as tombs of prophets in the next,

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and water running between them in ancient canals called aflaaj, Oman really is one of a kind. Immediately upon landing at the tiny airport of Salalah, Oman’s second capital, stress slides from you like water from a duck’s back. Omanis are famous for their relaxed and friendly charm, not to mention their impeccable English, so visiting the country feels like slipping into a hot bath; it’s impossible not to feel at home. Camels roam around both the deserts and the roads, shimmying after each other, while cars calmly wait for them to pass. Life is so relaxed, Omanis regularly stop at the side of the road to pick up a coconut for a cool drink. Oman stands out amongst the Gulf States for its calmness, diverse landscape and its unique culture.

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Feeling the Heat While the rest of the Gulf starts to sizzle, Salalahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s climate cools down and enters monsoon season, called khareef. The manager of Juweira Boutique Hotel tells me that Gulf tourists visit in the summer months to escape the heat of home, while the rest of the world tends to visit Oman during the winter. Omanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s khareef season seems to be a secret well kept by the locals, but not for long. I visited at the start of the season, so the temperature had dipped and it had become humid. The sea had also become too strong to venture out into, but the barren trees that dot the landscape had not burst into life. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m told that in the summer months, until September, Salalah turns into an oasis, a verdant paradise.

Unlike summer in the Gulf, where the cities shut down and essentially become ghost towns, shadows of their former selves, Salalah perks up during khareef, as the weather changes and becomes more bearable. During khareef, there is a festival in Salalah theatre, where every day each village or town will come and celebrate different aspects of their traditions, to share and experience the diverse cultures that make up Oman. The only blight on this, otherwise idyllic, locale is the abundance of mosquitos. These nasty little insects swarm invisibly around you, feasting on your sweet blood and leaving itchy, red spots in their wake. Pack both the suntan lotion and the insect repellant; nothing spoils a holiday faster than a visit to the pharmacy.

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Juweira Boutique Hotel Lounging in the Marina Suite, a famous quotation by Coco Chanel springs to mind. The French designer once opined that, “Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity.” And there is nothing vulgar in Juweira Boutique Hotel, or indeed, in the entire country. The boutique hotel does not submit to the over-the-top flashiness that is so prevalent in modern hotels, but rather has a luxurious sparsity - the minimalist white of the walls, only an arrow pointing to Mecca punctuates the bare ceiling, while the adjoining French windows lead out to not one, but two balconies that boast an impressive view of the marina. The bathroom, in particular, is beautiful. Luxuriating in the bathtub I felt like a queen. The spacious open plan design and “his” and “hers” sinks makes the bathroom feel cavernous - Juweira has its priorities right, as the bathroom was bigger than the sitting room! For now, Juweira is the only hotel on the beachfront, but when the resort is finished, Muriya Tourist Board promises golf courses, marinas, shops, restaurants, cafés and more boutique and five-star hotels. Salalah Beach is eight kilometres of pure white sand, but here’s the catch - during khareef season, the waves get so wild it’s impossible to go in the water, although you can lounge on the beach instead. To combat nature, Juweira has two pools; one is an infinity pool and both boast a view of the sea. After a short blast in the gym (as all frequent travellers will know, it cures jet lag and tiredness), a quick swim and doze in the sun is the perfect way to relax.

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You Shall Have a Fishy on a Little Dishy Is there anything better than seafood by the sea? Although on our travels around Salalah, our guide told us about desert BBQs, and we even saw a makeshift butcher in the mountain, with hunks of meat hanging by a hook, I stuck to fish. Whereas in Qatar and the UAE, hammour reigns freely as the fish of choice, Oman has a vast selection of underwater creatures to delight your taste buds, and a long history of fishing - even Suhail, bedouin turned civil servant turned guide, used to be a fisherman. “Although really,” he says, “you never stop being a Bedouin!” There is fresh crab, Omani lobster, mussels and squid that come from Salalah’s 75 km coastline - Juweira offers all kinds of fresh and simple produce. There isn’t a restaurant culture in Salalah - the only restaurants are in the hotels. Luckily, Juweira has two: As Sammak and Fanar, which I became very well-

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acquainted with during my stay. At As Sammak, I tasted Treasure of the Sea, a plate stacked with gleaming, grilled hammour fillet, pink jumbo prawns, calamari, salmon and mussels, which was delicious. The different textures of the fish and seafood were a mixture of meaty, melting softness, and crispness, which was hungrily ploughed through whilst watching the boats float in the harbour as the sun set. At Fanar, I had the Fish ‘n’ Chips, Omani style, which meant a batter fried hammour fillet and hand-cut chips. The crisp batter juxtaposed with the soft, flakey white fish, a squeeze of lemon and a deep breath of fresh sea air, it was utterly perfect comfort food (I had this more than once). The jumbo prawns were also delicious - there’s something very animalistic about ripping off a creature’s skin to feast on its delicious pink flesh.

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The only downside to the menu is that it’s a little limited - the Juweira philosophy is to keep things simple, and the boutique has only been open a year. As the resort grows, so, presumably, will the menu.

Frankincense Back in the day of the Frankincense Trail, where merchants used to trek around the Middle East selling their goods, the aromatic resin used to be worth its weight in gold. Frankincense is very rare - there are only two places in the world where it can grow, Oman and to a lesser extent, Yemen. You can tell the quality by the colour; the lighter and clearer it is, the more pure the resin. In ascending order, the four types of frankincense are asha’bi, the darkest and worst quality; ashazri, which is found between the coast and the mountains; annajdi, which is found in the desert; and the best frankincense, al-hojari. Our guide Suhail took us into the desert and with a pocket knife, peeled the papery bark from a Frankincense tree (or Boswellia Sacra, to give its proper name), revealing marbled green flesh, from which sticky white sap protruded; the frankincense. Frankincense was used to ward off evil spirits, as well as having many medicinal uses (it’s an antiseptic), but the smell will be familiar to any afficionados of another of Oman’s luxurious exports. If visiting the souq in Salalah to pick out some frankincense doesn’t appeal, Amouage’s perfume, for men and women is a perfect substitute. www.juweirahotel.com

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Summer Loves As the heat rises here in the GCC, trust Sur la Terre to come to the rescue of your suffering skin by reviewing a raft of razors, moisturisers, and perfumes for men and women that will keep you feeling fresh and luxurious this summer. Photographed by Herbert Villadelrey

Fate Accompli Fate is the final act in Christopher Chong’s first olfactory opus for Omani perfumer, Amouage. “Each of my fragrances is a different character, and Fate,” the ebullient Creative Director explained at the launch of the fragrance, “is me setting them free; letting them loose on the world.” Fate Man (right) creates a sense of beginning with fresh notes of Citrus, Absinthe and sharp Ginger which pervades to a predestined heart of Rose and Frankincense. The woody accord in the base of Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Musk, Liquorice and Tonka Bean adds a haunting intensity of uncertainty. With a heart resonating in the tumult of the unknown, Fate Woman (left) opens with spicy accords to set a mysterious mood of the unexpected. The base features a rich and forceful blend of Frankincense, Oakmoss and Leather.

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Mint C onditioned Skin

L ook Sharp

L’Occitane’s new Verdon range for men uses organic plant extracts of sea-buckthorn, genepi and mint with invigorating spring water from Provence in France and is packaged in 100 percent recyclable materials. The Energy Moisturiser (pictured) is an ultra-fresh gel that not only refreshes, but re-energises the skin.

L’Occitane has also partnered with shaving specialists, Plisson, to bring its shaving accessories to the region for a limited period through L’Occitane boutiques.

The SLT Team has been using this for the last month and a half and its application straight out of the shower ranks as the third best way to wakeup on a summer’s day and beat the interminable summer heat of the GCC.

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The fine, 100 percent synthetic shaving brush will not only get your face in a lather, it will have your skin tingling with pleasure, too. Equally, the wood-handled razor, which is compatible with Gillette Fusion blades, feels rich and as smooth - just like your face will be - in the palm of the hand. Despite its wood finish, it offers a good grip and a close shave.

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Natural Beauty In our busy lives, it pays to find skincare products that are multi-purpose, to lighten our beauty bags and reduce our time in front of the mirror. That’s why SLT loves Figs & Rouge’s 100% Natural Balm, which is suitable for lip, face, hand and body. It’s petroleum free, making the soothing multi-purpose lip balm tin a guilt-free and handy addition to your handbag whenever you suffer from dry skin. Continuing on the all natural theme, Human + Kind is a skincare range with a conscience. Its products have no parabens, chemicals, colourants

and it doesn’t subscribe to animal testing. Its Family Remedy Cream is something no one should be without - a hypo-allergenic miracle cream will sooth everything from eczema to minor burns - SLT found it very effective against mosquito bites. BB Creams are all the rage now - both a moisturiser and a foundation, they are the way of the future. Foundation can often by quite drying to the skin, but L’Occitane’s Sublime Beauty Cream uses organic angelica essential oil to keep your skin bright and dewy. The Sublime Beauty Cream also boasts SPF30, so you don’t have to worry about your skin burning.

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out of the box

Pavoni:

Hides And Chic Sur la Terre highlights the exquisite leather goods of an Italian brand that’s boldly shaking up the luxury leather accessories market with colourful exotic hides and skins, crafted using generations’ old methods.

ince the days when ancient man scrawled the first hieroglyphs, the scribe’s leather bag was an essential tool in the communication of the history and culture of our species. Later, without leather, we would not have bound and safely stored the pages of our ancient books that document our past and have passed down knowledge through generations. Leather, then, has been an essential material in the development of our collective knowledge and cultures; of our history and legends. Even back then, it was only royalty, the rich and the well-financed religious institutions that could afford to commission, buy and keep these leather-bound tomes, making leather one of the world’s oldest truly luxurious materials with which to craft products of note, as well as fine clothing and accessories. These days, though, its uses are much more diverse and mass-production means that cheap, hardwearing leather is ubiquitous in our lives, from cheap $10 shoes to a $2 watch strap. However, whether it be from soft, nubile calf-skin, or more exotic pelts such as snake, alligator or crocodile, there is a company currently plying its trade that has mastered the craft of leatherwork and artfully creates reassuringly expensive, beautiful and desirable leather goods using methods passed down the generations of craftsmen.

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Pavoni's Stingray "Beth" bag

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The Pavoni brand has gained traction in the GCC and Asia through its partnership with Amouage ..

Sophia Sassoon on the red carpet with a Pavoni Sofia Shopper ..

For the last decade, from its base in the shoemaking capital of Europe, the Marche and Abruzzo provinces of Italy, the house of Pavoni, has tasked itself with supplying the world's nobility, rich and famous with exclusive pieces ranging from the most beautiful exotic leather handbags to interior bespoke leather furnishings. The brand can count among its many admirers - and we warn you, some heavyweight names are about to be dropped - the likes of Victoria’s Secret model Sophie Anderton, classical music virtuoso Katherine Jenkins as well as stars of the silver screen, like the stunning Sophia Sassoon and the evergreen Samuel L. Jackson. Pavoni is also feted by some of Europe’s top fashionistas, like celebrity fashion designer and stylist, Lewis-Duncan Weeden. The brainchild of founders, Alan Newberry and Albena Taneva, who recognised that there was a need to offer their Vittoria I. Pavoni product style to a broader, more commercial, global market, Pavoni adapts the basis of the traditional, classic lines from several generations of Artisan production and delivers a collection of desirable, feminine and fashionable handbags, with a modern look and more fluent name. The brand has quickly become synonymous with timeless and elegant chic, brought forth by using the best leathers and most vibrant colours. It is, as the company describes it, “luxuriously stylish arm candy.” Each article is "lavorazione artiginale" (hand made) using only the finest leathers and most vibrant colours,

exploiting some of the most exotic materials, from crocodile, ostrich, snake and pony skins. Every step of the process remains 100 percent an Italian endeavour, from the tanning of the Tuscan leathers to the presentation confection by generations of artisan craftsmen who have that unique and unequalled passion for their trade. While certain elements and products share a workspace that has seen the products of Gucci, Dolce & Gabanna, Alexanda McQueen, Chloe and Roberto Cavalli pass through the doors over the past 30 years, Pavoni’s pieces are characterised by brilliant, innovative and creative design, with an emphasis on luxury and distinction and not on garish flaunting of a brand identity. The stunning pieces for both her and him offer the look and feel of the best that money can buy, but with a VIP discretion that is not necessarily associated with other, louder leather goods brands. It is this ethos that has seen Pavoni’s exquisite pieces and craftsmanship catch the eye of larger luxury goods providers with a leathery gap in their catalogues. Among some of the A-list organisations that Pavoni provides fine leather accessories for are the likes of Jimmy Choo and Tonino Lamborghini, the son of Ferrucio, who has a multi-faceted portfolio of luxury products from kitchenware to watches.

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Keeping with an automotive theme, there are few marques that exude style and chic better than James Bond’s choice, Aston Martin. Q-Branch would be hard pressed to kit out their ineffable super spy with a better line of leather accessories than Pavoni’s offerings to the Warwickshire-based car maker. It is through just such an association that, in the GCC and Asia, Pavoni has gained huge traction for its sumptuous products with Omani perfumer, Amouage. One of Pavoni’s latest partnerships, it is seemingly a match made in luxury heaven given the olfactory house’s claim to be “The Gift Of Kings.” Of course, Pavoni understands that true luxury can’t be bought “off the peg,” so to speak, and recently added a bespoke handbag service to its repertoire. Providing a truly pampered experience to its VIP clients, the bespoke service deals only in the most desirable and exotic leathers available and is designed to deliver the ultimate in quality, fit and personal service with a passion for craftsmanship. So special and unique is the process, that the customer is encouraged to invest not just the idea, but their emotion, creativity and time in to the product’s design and manufacture, participating in every aspect of creating that special handbag. Pavoni will either task one of their artisans to develop a design from the initial thoughts of the customer, or allow them to be guided through every step of its conception, from assisting in the design, approving the model, to picking the leathers, colours, accessories and finishes - even adding precious metal flourishes to the final product. Each and every Pavoni Bespoke bag is artfully embellished with the client’s signature and name, delivering not just a warm feeling of achievement and status, but the security that no-one else will rock up at a party with the same thing - it is the the ultimate luxury: one-off exclusivity. It is this singular desire to create the truly special that has driven Pavoni to success, to the point where the company not only has some heavyweight celebrity cheerleaders, but is now putting its name to some prestigious events such as the 2013 Rendevous Super Yacht Awards in Monaco, as well as being the official product supplier to the A-lister team captains of Samuel L Jackson’s “Shooting Stars” charity golf event in the UK. Pavoni, then, is itself fast becoming a shooting star of the luxury market. Whether its products become as intrinsic to the future of mankind as our ancient scribe’s leather bag is yet to be seen, but one thing is for certain: if his leather tool bag had been made by Pavoni, he would have been too busy admiring its beauty to scrawl any hieroglyphs, and where would be then? www.pavoni.com

Pavoni uses only the most exotic and luxurious skins and hides . . .

Pavoni's Python "Beth" bag ..

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The British Standard: Asprey of London In a special Out of the Box feature, Sur la Terre explores the history and mystery of what makes Asprey the uncontested “British Standard” of luxury.

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it requires uncompromising confidence to refer to oneself as “The British Standard” of anything, but on very rare occasions, that moniker does prove to be well-deserved. Such is the case with Asprey of London, an historically expansive and luxuriously extensive family brand with an uncanny swagger matched only by its uncommon craftsmanship, commitment to quality and sumptuous, innovative design. The lifeline running throughout the Asprey crest comes sewn from a lustrous lineage, one whose heritage benefits both from a dedication to softness and one that is rather more tempered, wrought as it is within Hephestian fires of artistic inspiration. Founded in 1781 by William Asprey in Mitcham, Surrey, the luxury goods house began its life within the focus of silk printing, before evolving into what the company describes as “the metallic arts,” thanks to the long lineage of ironmongers and blacksmiths within the Apsrey family. This familial connection to those most precious of natural elements would coalesce later as the company delved still deeper into silver and gold-smithery, but not before the family would find a home befitting its increasingly lauded status on the international scene.

In 1847, Charles Asprey oversaw the family business’s move to 167 Bond Street, which still today remains the headquarters of the brand. So flanked by likeminded progenitors of the modern global luxury community, Asprey quickly focused its considerable resources toward its early speciality in aesthetically simple, yet technically ornate dressing cases. “Articles of exclusive design and high quality,” went the brand’s early slogan, further promising its quickly-growing clientele satisfaction, “whether for personal adornment or personal accompaniment and to endow with richness and beauty the table and homes of people of refinement and discernment.” Is it just us, or does that not describe wonderfully the standard and calibre of the regular Sur la Terre reader? In 1859, Asprey purchased both the Alfred Club, to establish a larger storefront presence, as well as an historic company called Edwards. Yet another fine purveyor of dressing cases, Edwards was also counted amongst the few holders of a highly-prized Royal Warrant, an accolade Asprey itself would achieve on its own merit in 1862, when it was afforded the honour, first by Queen Victoria and then by the Prince of Wales, who would later become King Edward VII. Of course, it was not only the shoulders of kings with whom Asprey found itself rubbing alongside, but also with the worn, weathered and practiced hands of master craftsman - indeed, members of a certain royalty in their own right. In the early days of the 20th Century, Asprey decided to expand its commitment to the finer things in life by broadening its production scope to include watch and jewellery-making, employing the finest contemporary craftsmen in the world, such as the renowned Ernest Betjeman. This marked a renewed attention to cultivating the artisanal within their designs, regardless of product. Across its various permutations of luxury - be it bags, travel clocks or even automatic pencil sharpeners, Asprey refused anything less than the exceptional.

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As such, the family name continued to be associated with greatness within the world, boasting clients from a new crop of American millionaires to the Maharajah of Patiala, all of whom left outfitting their discerning collections with Aspreyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most definitive wares. Regardless of epoch or product, Asprey has always associated itself with only the finest things in life, particularly when it comes to artisanal talent. Its long and storied tradition of specialised workshops is well-known within the corners of luxury, and runs the gamut of talent, from silversmiths, goldsmiths and jewellers to leatherworkers, engravers and watchmakers. If you can dream it, chances are, Asprey already has. So suitably armed to helm bespoke and beautiful production, Asprey is limited only by the impossibly deep well of imagination drawn upon by its craftsmen, allowing a uniquely-faceted service with which it continues to be associated to this day. Whether a discerning client desires an intricately-designed, 16-piece picnic set or a discrete toothbrush with an 18-carat gold case, Asprey is fully prepared and infinitely wellequipped to forge dreams into reality within the kiln of its tempestuous inspiration. The newest designs and collections are the latest descendants of that longstanding and rich tradition, hewn from the finest materials by the hands of historyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest craftsmen. Take the new Lotus Flower Collection, for example. A gorgeous parade of turquoise, aquamarine, rubies and a rare green tsavorite suite, all set in platinum or 18-carat gold, this is one of the most singularly stunning collections in recent memory, and is a true sight to behold, thanks to painstaking craftsmanship and a keen commitment to quality materials and techniques, the like of which are often imitated, but never duplicated. Similarly inspired, although resplendent within a different medium, the Autumn/ Winter Leather Collections from Asprey encapsulates what is so unique and arresting about the brand. Led creatively by celebrated accessories designer Katie Hillier, the new collection cuts striking new silhouettes within bags such as the Blakes Tote (a crucial carryall), the modern classic known as The Morgan and the Cigarette Clutch, which comes directly inspired by some of the most classic designs within Aspreyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s deep archives. It is difficult to define a British style, but given the way its lineage luxuriates across the ages with a homegrown, close-knit collusion with quintessentially British quality - the kind that is born of a rather more robust and palpable essence - Asprey has indeed set a firm and unwavering standard.

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The Italians

Wear Armani Imitating a fashionista, Laura Hamilton heads to Milan to attend Giorgio Armaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menswear summer 2014 show and learn about the fashion show on its way to Dubai.

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car pulled up outside the Giorgio Armani fashion show and the paparazzi and bloggers swarmed around it, cameras at the ready, buzzing with whispers about which celebrity would be gracing Milan’s king with his or her presence. The door opened and a tiny blonde pixie stepped out, hand on hip, posing expertly. “Who is it?” one of the other journalists hissed in my ears. While I can say that I do know my Manet from my Monet, have read most of the classics and can have a fairly well informed discussion on world politics, I am ashamed to say that I can also recognise the back of Hayden Panettiere’s head from 20 paces. “It’s the cheerleader from Heroes,” I say, downcast. The lights dim on and off. From the back, where all the fashion insiders stand, as we are told, there is a good view. The theatre is immense and the catwalk is a stream of white light. I’m told that Armani’s shows are the biggest and best in Milan - the most theatrical and the most popular, as I peer out into the darkness in anticipation. Hunched over smart phones, people’s faces light up blue in the dark and there is still a crowd of photographers around Hayden Panettiere. It’s as if someone snaps their fingers (Giorgio Armani, perhaps?); everyone is seated and music blasts out and the models emerge. Models have their own unique walk - whereas female models tend to strut like a newly born giraffe, the male of the species hunch over like a peculiarly slim-line gorilla. My observations on what they were wearing is limited - sports luxe is still all the rage and apparently next summer men are going to be wearing a lot of grey, white,

SLT 's Laura Hamilton meets with Franca Sozzani, editor of Vogue Italia .

fuschia and, most curiously of all, drawstring trousers. I’m sure by next year this will all make sense to us. Whereas Paris is the fashion capital of the world for womenswear, Milan is the most important place for menswear, as is evident by the way the gentlemen of Milano dress. Part flamboyant, part practical, a little dandyism is at work here and I felt quite unstylish by comparison. As we are shipped to our next fashion show (a decidedly more low-key affair), my thoughts turn to Dubai. Dubai, of course, has its own fashion style, which is colourful, practical and with a Middle Eastern flair. In October, The Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience comes to Dubai Mall, thanks to Vogue Italia, which will cement The Dubai Mall’s position as the fashion hub of the Gulf. Usually Vogue Fashion Experiences focus on a city and the fashion events line the streets, but in Dubai, it will be entirely encompassed within The Dubai Mall, one of the largest and most luxurious malls in the world. The extravaganza will see 250 fashion brands, including rising stars of the Middle East as well as the usual suspects (like Giorgio Armani), come together for one night only, with catwalk shows, exhibitions and a gala dinner.

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“I want exposure,” Vogue Italia Editor, Franca Sozzani, one of the five most important people in the fashion world, tells me. “Not for the magazine, or for The Dubai Mall, but for fashion. We are always talking about China and India as new markets, but Dubai and the Emirates have much more sophisticated tastes. I went to Dubai to see the level and choice in the shops and it was very interesting to see how they choose what they like. Their tastes focus on sophistication and elegance, they don’t like to be too trendy, but they’re not too boring.” In The Devil Wears Prada, a film about the fashion industry, Anne Hathaway mocks the serious discussion Anna Wintour doppelgänger Meryl Streep is having about the colour blue. It’s hard to take the fashion world seriously sometimes, considering we passed a Japanese blogger in circular glasses, a tartan scarf and a long yellow mackintosh after the fashion show. However, the fashion industry is huge - we all wear clothes, don’t we? In the end, Streep wins the argument by pointing out that the cerise jumper Hathaway is wearing came into existence by Streep’s trivial talks about colours. Although in the Middle East fashion tends to trickle down to us from Europe, so most jetsetters buy abroad, I predict that after The Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience, when the European fashion world comes to us, there will be a change in perception. Middle Eastern fashion designers are rising up in the world, as everyone knows, so the Middle East as a shopping destination will, too. “Dubai could potentially become a fashion capital,” muses Sozzani. “We are so used to how important the press is for a fashion brand, but it’s only partially true today. If you don’t have the right shop, the right image, know how to sell it, and have good exposure, the press by itself is not enough. Unlike Europe and the West, Dubai starts from the other side. They start from the shop, from the image. So it’s going to be interesting to see how they develop from there.”

The Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience will be held at The Dubai Mall on 10 October, 2013.

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Q&A with Franca Sozzani So many of the best magazines have originated from Italy, like Vogue. What is that makes Italian magazines so popular and successful? I think you have to make a difference. You have to do what no other magazine is doing. The photographers with whom we work, are the best photographers in the world. They don’t come from any other magazine, they start with us. It’s a very different kind of language that we use than any other magazine. In Italy we have a lot of fashion magazines, and generally speaking, they are all good quality. To be very high quality, however, is difficult because you have to really understand the images.

Is print media in Italy suffering? Will it ever die out? It’s difficult to say. There are so many things for us to do, like Vogue Fashion Experiences. Even if the numbers in Europe are lower than the numbers in the US, our website is very popular. Vogue Italia is in a different position than Vogue UK, as we speak a language that even if we put a translation at the end of the magazine, it’s only spoken here. So we use images more than any other Vogue because of the language. Image is a kind of a communication and we concentrate on our photographers; that has become our strength.

Why are Italians so well dressed? It’s in the culture. In Italy, France, England, we have a long history and tradition of fashion. It’s not even about industry, even before that, if you go back to the Renaissance, fashion was so important. We have a long story of couture, of fashion, behind us. There is a certain kind of elegance, sophistication that comes with this kind of history and no other places have this. It’s something you have in your DNA.

Who are your favourite designers from the Middle East? I’ve been to Dubai three times, and it was very interesting to meet the young designers. One of my favourite designers from the Middle East called Ashi’s Studio impressed me a lot, and I also love Razan Alazzouni.

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M A R K ETPL ACE

WelcomE

to the SLT Market place.

a go-to guide

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, available at all Fifty One East showrooms.

Sony VAIO® Pro 13/11 inches, available at all Fifty One East outlets in Doha in addition to Virgin Megastores and sony dealerships region-wide.

of the hot products you should be buying, available in the local market now.

Venini Bolle, handmade and blown glass with the “Incalmo” technique, designed by Tapio Wirkkala, available at VENINI Space – Doha, The Gate Mall.

Anya Hindmarch Limited Edition Bathurst Bow Gold bag, exclusively available at Fifty One East in Lagoona Mall, DOHA

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Globe Trotter Cruise Line 33â&#x20AC;&#x2122; extra deep suitcase with wheels, available in Salam Stores in Qatar.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Perpetual Calendar , available in all Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques across the Middle East and in Al Majed Jewellery outlets in Qatar.

IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Silberpfeil, available in Qatar through Al Majed Jewellery and Rivoli Prestige.

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Longines La Grande Classique de Longines 180th Anniversary Limited Edition, available through Rivoli stores and Longines Boutique in Dubai.

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Armani PRIVĂ&#x2030; NUANCES, exclusively available at the Armani counter in Salam Plaza, The Gate Mall and Armani boutiques region-wide.

Ralph Lauren Soft Ricky bag, available exclusively in Ralph Lauren boutiques.

Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina Edt., available at all Salam and 4U retail outlets.

Katharine Pooley Humidor Shagreen, available at Katharine Pooley boutique at The Gate Mall.

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CH Carolina Herrera Tote Gaspar bag in red leather, available at all CH Carolina Herrera stores region-wide.

Lalique Equus Vase, available at Tanagra boutiques in Qatar, Kuwait and Dubai.

Knot Lounge Chair by Mcguire, available at Living In Interiors showroom in Qatar.

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DETAILS Publications Director Mohamed Jaidah m.jaidah@firefly-me.com - Editorial Regional Managing Editor James McCarthy j.mccarthy@firefly-me.com Senior Editor Steven Paugh s.paugh@firefly-me.com Fashion & Style Sophie Jones-Cooper s.jones-cooper@firefly-me.com Staff Writer Laura Hamilton l.hamilton@firefly-me.com

Sur La Terre International S.A. Head office 26 avenue de la Praille 1227, Geneva, Switzerland. Tel: + 41 22 310 48 00 Fax: + 41 22 310 48 01

Contributors Damien Reid Gaëlle Hennet - Art & Design Creative Director Roula Zinati Ayoub Art Direction Teja Jaganjac Finaliser Ron Baron

SLT 27 Cover.pdf

7/28/13

10:24 AM

Photography Herbert Villadelrey June Delgado - Sales & Marketing Regional Sales Director Julia Toon j.toon@firefly-me.com Area Manager Bahrain-Qatar Chirine Halabi c.halabi@firefly-me.com - Printing & Distribution Distribution Manager Azqa Haroon a.haroon@firefly-me.com Cover Image by : Marc Ninghetto

Logistics Manager Joseph Isaac j.issac@firefly-me.com - Printer Raidy Printing Group www.raidy.com

- Publisher Firefly Communications PO Box 11596, Doha, Qatar. Tel: +974 4434 0360 Fax: +974 4434 0359 info@firefly-me.com www.firefly-me.com

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© 2013 Sur la Terre (SLT) is published bi-monthly by Firefly Communications. All material strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, without the prior written permission of Firefly Communications, is prohibited. All content is believed to be factual at the time of going to print, and contributors’ views are their own derived opinions and not necessarily that of Firefly Communications or SLT. No responsibility or liability is accepted by the publishers or editorial staff for the loss of occasioned to any individual or company, legally, financially or physically, as a result of any statement, fact, figure or expression of opinion or belief appearing in SLT. The publisher does not officially endorse any advertising or advertorial content for third party products. Photography and image credits, where not otherwise stated, are those of Getty/Gallo Images and/or Shutterstock or iStock Photo and/ or Firefly communications, each of which retains their individual copyrights.

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