I N D I O L O G Y
INDIOLOGY B2B | 2015-2016
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COLOFON EDITING TEAM: Sela Clark Britta Flinterman Lisa Koning Geesje Remijnse
RESEARCH AND TEXTTEAM:
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Meetings Spell check Communication Load balancing Final sources list in Harvard-style Final check Test print + Final print
RESEARCH EN TEXTTEAM: Roos Bulder Robin Huberts Mart Meijers Sven Ponthofer Jaimy Schreuder Julia van der Veen Nikki Velemans
• • • • • • • • • •
List of brands Concept Tone of voice Sample tekst Vision, mission and values Link to a segments Link to air signs Introduction, conclusion, index Check substance analysis Sources list in Harvard-style
“ASTROLOGY IS LIKE A MAP. LIKE A ROADMAP, ASTROLOGY IS MEANT TO BE A USEFUL TOLL TO HELP GUIDE YOU TO WHEREVER YOU WANT TO GO.” - Pila Of Hawaii, The Secrets & Mysteries of Hawaii
VISUAL TEAM:
Amber van Bussel
VISUAL TEAM:
Micheline Karekezi Kim Neelemans Tessa Ruger Anna van der Velde Puck Verheul
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Moodboards + concept photograpy Moodboards lay-out and style Photoshoots Brand photo’s Cover Choice of paper Contact with the copyshop Sources list Harvard-style Making the brandbook
EDITING TEAM: • •
Making the schedule Between checks at deadlines
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FIRE ARIES DIESEL EVISU
LEO
ABERCROMBIE & FITCH TRUE RELIGION
SAGITTARIUS PME LEGEND VINGINO
LIBRA
BRAX PAIGE DENIM
AQUARIUS
CHEAP MONDAY KSUBI
70 78
30
EARTH CAPRICORN
42
WATER CANCER
TAURUS
50
SCORPIO
VIRGO
58
JACK&JONES WRANGLER
GAP NOT YOUR DAUGHTERS JEANS
ACNE DENHAM
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14 22
AIR
MUD JEANS NUDIE
G-STAR RAW LEVI’S
90 98
CONCLUSION BIBLIOGRAPHY
106 108 7.
IT’S BEEN WRITTEN IN DENIM It is difficult to find a garment as widely embraced, loved and worn as denim. It is a material with never-ending variations. Cowboys may wear jeans, but so do supermodels, farmers, presidents and housewives. For some they are comfortable, durable and easy - for others they are sexy and cool. Jeans mean different things to different people. The reason for their success has as much to do with their cultural meaning as their physical construction. From the sober workwear jeans, designed by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis in 1873, to the 1960s when the middle class started to wear them. Jeans have been revolutionizing human history and they still do.
“IT’S NOT JUST A THREE-DIMENSIONAL MATERIAL, IT’S FOUR-DIMENSIONAL BECAUSE IT CHANGES WITH TIME AS WELL. THE ETERNAL APPEAL OF JEANS IS JUST THAT THEY REFLECT US AND THEY REFLECT THE LIVES THAT WE’VE HAD IN THEM.” - Danny Miller
Today the dynamic jeans market may be more crowded than ever, with a large number of different players –each trying to be special and recognizable for consumers. But how do jeans brands distinguish themselves from all the others? And what makes them memorable? With these questions in mind, we started with the concept of INDIOLOGY: an astrology-based jeans brand book, INDIGO + ASTROLOGY, focusing on the distinguishing characteristics and personality of denim brands to offer clarity and distinction.
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For centuries we trust what is written in the stars. In all civilizations, the stars occupy an important place within creation. They tell supernatural stories of heroes and villains and symbolize light and the beginning of life. At birth we have been given a zodiac sign that matches our characteristics, which are influenced by the elements and qualities associated with each personal zodiac sign. Whether you believe in it or not, your star sign can give you plenty of information about your personality. From dominating and outrageous Leo’s to the more solid and practical Tauruses. It is like a window through which you view the world, and the world views you. It defines us as a person, helps us by making choices and gives us advice in hard times. Creating a distinctive personality has never been so been important in the denim market as now. The fashion industry is all about standing out, especially with an already limited material in a crowded market. INDIOLOGY explores the most important characteristics associated with each zodiac sign and matches them with a comparing jeans brand. Just like in astrology, denim brands have a few characteristics that set them apart from their competitors. Today you cannot only fit their product, but also their personality. It says something about who they are, how they visualize themselves and which target group they eventually attract. This way INDIOLOGY makes denim brands become more personal and visualizes a more human denim market where every jeans brand stands out by their distinctive personality.
INDIOLOGY is there to find the gap in the denim market by providing an inventory of 20 different jeans brands. Despite jeans brands may run the world, they do not operate all target groups equally. Therefore INDIOLOGY offers information about which target group is not yet represented by a specific jeans brand and shows opportunities in characteristics of other brands they can use to attract a new target group. To create an objective view all denim brands have first been analyzed fairly in order to put them within the right element, connected to a matching zodiac sign based on their most distinctive characteristics. As you flip through the pages, the first four chapters are divided by the elements: Fire, Earth, Air and Water, each responding to three different signs. In the last chapter we talk about the opportunities in the denim market by linking the target groups to jeans brands and their matching zodiac sign. Selecting the 20 divers denim brands was most important. The chosen brands are based on the difference in customer age and product price to get a good overall view, so no target group would be excluded. Since astrology is all about the inner person and how this reflects to the outside, INDIOLOGY uses a combination of the Brand Design model by Ruud Boer (2013), which focuses on the Brand Inside and Brand Outside, and the authentic Marketing Mix, also known as the 4P’s of Marketing by professor E. Jerome McCarthy (1960). This combination of research methods was made to see how the Brand Inside and Outside affect the actual outcome. Just as humans the inner person mostly stays the same, but the outside changes within time. In order to find out what distinguishes denim brands from the others we divided them into 5 sections: history, brand identity, visual identity, target group and output to highlight the difference in identity of each brand. We made this division because to all brands selling jeans is the core of the brand, but they all do this by using different strategies, visions and missions, each focusing on different market segments.
Take a look with an open mind and experience how astrology has the last word and the jeans brands automatically fall into place. Remember:
“ASTROLOGY IS A LANGUAGE. IF YOU UNDERSTAND THIS LANGUAGE, THE SKY SPEAKS TO YOU”. - Dane Rudhyar
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FIRE
Fire is a fiercely and unpredictable element. It can quickly go from a small flame into a raging fire. This element is full of power. It is adventurous, energetic and aggressive. Fire signs tend to have a forceful ego and put strong emphasis on individuality and independence. They are warm, honest and passionate, but at the same time they can be impulsive and risk taking. Fire signs are resolute, born leaders and make choices by their gut instinct. Zodiacs that fit the profile of the fire element are Aries, Leo and Sagittarius. Aries is the daredevil, the energetic and impulsive zodiac. Leo, known for its pride, strong ego and dominant character. Sagittarius is the adventurous zodiac and loves its independence. The Fire zodiacs all have a strong character and a resolute approach. The following brands are in line with the element fire, this includes Diesel, Evisu, Abercrombie&Fitch, True Religion, Vingino and PME Legend.
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DIESEL Individual and rebellious: Diesel is not just denim, it is a lifestyle. They are the daredevils in denim. As a unconventional, articulate and youthful brand, they reflect their energetic and somewhat agressive approach, making them an Aries by heart. Bursting the fire from deep in their soul.
ASHES OF THE PAST
With the idea to create the world its most innovative denim brand, Diesel was founded in 1978. Co-founder Renzo Rosso worked at a local clothing manufacturer Moltex, in Molvena, Italy. After two years of employment, Rosso and the owner of Moltex, Adriano Goldschmied, formed a new company for jeans together. They named this new company Diesel, inspired by the fuel diesel, which was considered to be the alternative during the oil crisis. The two liked the idea of their brand being perceived as an alternative jeans brand. In 1985 Renzo Rosso takes full control over Diesel. In the following years, with denim being the main focus, he began experimenting with different threading techniques for fabrics, stones and washes. At the beginning of the ‘90s Diesel gets a steady position in the global fashion market and later in the ‘90s Diesel opens its first mono-brand store in New York.
DNA
Even though Diesel has grown a lot since it’s creation, the philosophy remains the same. According to Rosso the brand stands for passion, individuality and self-expression. The brand believes that Diesel is not just apparel and denim: it is a lifestyle. This believe contributes to the brand’s mission statement: ‘To create an apparel line perfect for individual people who follow their own unique path in life and for those style-makers who express their individuality by the way they dress.’ Diesel states that by not following the norm the brand helps consumers to obtain a unique style. Building something special for the customers is more important to Diesel than sales and profit. This mindset means that Diesel tries to create a twoway dialog with the customer in order to interact with and entertain them. This results in a deeper relationship between the customer and the brand. Also, the customers are more involved with Diesel because of this mindset.
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ADMIRERS
Many external sources stated that Diesel’s target group is men and women between the age of 16 to 30, but Renzo Rosso sees that differently. He states that: ‘there is no target group and the real focus is on lifestyle. Diesel sees its customers as intellectuals who know what they are looking for’. These people look beyond categorization, gender and means of expression, just like Diesel. The focus is on those who see the world differently and who draw their own path. Focused on Diesel’s identity the target group is likely to be creative minded, individual and articulated. They will have a higher income and live in an urban setting. Although one of Diesel’s campaign says ‘Be Stupid, Not Smart’ the target group is more likely to be smart, otherwise they would not understand the humorous and ironic way of marketing Diesel uses.
VISUAL I.D.
Diesel is known for its various campaigns; for example the advertising campaign titled #Reboot. In this campaign Diesel featured artists with different styles, body shapes and sizes instead of actual fashion models. In another exclusively Internet based campaign Diesel launched an online reality show with two female models acting as hostage takers, interacting with the viewers. Among other things Diesel uses aging, obesity, disability, violence and religion in the marketing campaigns to tell a story. Diesel’s corporate identity is quite bold, yet simple. The logo is a composition of capitals letters forming the brand’s name. Depending on the occasion the letters are white on a plain red rectangle or just black on a white background. On the website the theme of all capital letters is also applied. The mono-brand stores of Diesel are a reflection of the brand’s philosophy. Diesel believes that the stores should be individually styled, in contrast to the common retail norms. Also, the stores are a place for artists to collaborate with Diesel and showcase their work. Even though the stores are styled on their own, they are recognizable as Diesel’s because of the overall dark and edgy feeling.
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OUTPUT
Diesel differentiates itself from the other jeans brands by its mindset and focus on lifestyle. The brand ignores common marketing rules and appears to be successful in its own approach until this day. The brand is known for various collaborations with different artists, designers and brands. The main focus with these collaborations is to find other parties who are likeminded. At Diesel you can either shop online or at one of the 5,000 points of sale, of which 400 are mono-brand stores. The jeans can be chosen by fit or by wash. The stitches are mostly very discrete and in the same color as the denim. The names of the models are related to body shapes. For example, if you are a man with firm athletic thighs but narrow hips, you will need a fit Larkee. Diesel emphasizes that the jeans are a luxurious alternative for casual wear and the prices vary from €120 to €600.
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EVISU Humor and a bit of disrespect is what a legend needs to survive. Evisu is known for its exceptional quality denims combined with their daring and energetic appearance. They present themselves as a bold and reckless brand, making them daredevils with a slight arrogant touch. Evisu is an extreme Aries. Dominating with fire lightning in their eyes.
ASHES OF THE PAST
Evisu, also known as Evisu Genes, is founded in Japan back in 1991 by tailor Yamane Hidehiko. The brand started as an original denim brand by introducing quality vintage denim in Japan. Yamane was tired of mass produced denim and started the brand with making only 14 pairs of jeans a day. Even though Evisu is now a worldwide jeans brand, Yamane his intentions towards the company were based on creating a loved enterprise rather than a commercial venture. Despite the success they stay true to their vision of creating a high quality product. Evisu is known for putting elements from existing jeans together to reproduce vintage-style jeans. This revolutionary idea is now seen as a leading course in the denim industry, worldwide known as the Replica Movement.
DNA
‘High quality builds an identity’ is the philosophy of Evisu. The brand is re-inventing old vintage styles for a modern new look. The philosophy highlights their aspiration towards quality and originality. The brands authentic identity also appears in their products. For example, the hand painted signature seagull logo on the back of the jeans. Their mission is in line with their philosophy, to create the highest quality product. With their core values: being bold and unique, they give a humoristic and young twist to their own Replica Movement. You can also see this in their name; it is a parody of Levi’s. Evisu’s vision says they don not believe in the renaissance, but in eternity. The core of their vision is the quality of the product. Also, with renaissance you can reflect on their use of old denim and designs. What makes the brand’s quality outstanding, besides using selvedge denim, is the use of a ‘dry and wet process’. This process gives each pair of jeans a different look that can take up to one week for a pair to be ready. The process is one by one completed by hand. Therefore, every pair of jeans has an unique identity with a different look and feeling.
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ADMIRERS
VISUAL I.D.
The visual identity of Evisu is about standing out with a mysterious, but also fun and daring look. The main colors of Evisu are black, red, dark blue and white, which give the brand an Asian look. The trims on the jeans are very contrasting to give the product a humorous effect. Evisu shows daring photography with sexual poses and extraordinary models. The brand also uses illustration for their campaigns and branding. The hand painted signature seagull logo has to do with the name that is based on the Japanese god of welfare Evisu. He is often portrayed holding a fishing rod in one hand and a bream in the other. Both objects are related to money and being affluent; the two loves of Yamane his life. Evisu its tone of voice is humorous, bold and with a little disrespect. This matches with their target group. The brand tries to create a playful and original fashion environment. The outside of the store is painted with mostly black or red, which makes it a stand out from the streets. On the inside, the store has a dark contrast with dark colors and wooden materials. Evisu visualizes their randomness with comical stuffed animals and other funny decoration that support the brands concept in the retail atmosphere.
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Evisu targets on both men and women between the age of 16 and 30. These teenagers and young adults who live in the city also have an urban career. They dislike authority, what gives them a mysterious but expressive attitude. With their young minds, they love to party which involves kicking up some dust. They have loads of interests, mostly in the fashion, music and sport industries. The brand has featured quite heavily in recent hiphop culture, mentioned in multiple songs by artists such as Jay-Z and Lil Wayne. The active wild young independents match with the brand because of the expressive huge details and colors on the jeans.
OUTPUT
The quality jeans are playful and eccentric which is recognizable in the distinctive design and the detail obsessed elements. Evisu names every jeans at fit and treatment of the selvedge denim. The price range for the authentic denim jeans are between â‚Ź250 and â‚Ź400. For an exclusive new pair of mens jeans you can pay up to â‚Ź800. Evisu is now a worldwide jeans brand with more than 150 outlets in the U.S., across Asia and Europe. Most of the shops are in Asia and Evisu is still in the developing stage to reach the Western market. They also sell their clothes at different online shops. Because the young urban daredevils are looking for mutual communication from a brand, Evisu is on all social media communication. On their pages, you can find a lot of quotes with humorous but sexual imagery. Evisu does a lot of collaborations with huge brands like Puma, but also with notebook brand Moleskine.
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ABERCROMBIE
& FITCH
With their past in mind, Abercrombie & Fitch is more self-conscious than ever. The brand appears as strong, confident and even a little arrogant. Therefore their preppy American style is practised all over. Being determined can not be denied. Abercrombie rawrs as a genuine Leo.
ASHES OF THE PAST
Abercrombie & Fitch Company (A&F) was founded in 1892 in New York City by David T. Abercrombie and Ezra H. Fitch. Abercrombie started off as a sporting goods store, selling outdoor and sporting equipment for hunting, fishing, camping, and exploring, but also for skating, polo, golf, and tennis. In 1992, their former CEO, Jeffries focused on transforming Abercrombie & Fitch into the retailer for the American youth. He wanted to replace conservative clothing lines with high-priced casual wear, à la Ralph Lauren. Nowadays the brand is also known as a jeans-brand, because of the high variation of jeans they are offering to their costumers. In retail, jeans are a best selling product for A&F’s clothing lines.
DNA
Abercrombie & Fitch used to have an identity that could be described as cool, preppy, and sexy. The brand is selling authentic American clothes since 1892. Because of its controversial image in the past; there was a lot of negativity, especially about their target group; young, thin and beautiful they were forced to change something. Abercrombie & Fitch has had many trials, lawsuits and protests against their company and image. In the past Abercrombie & Fitch was known for their All-American good-looking staff, sexually charged advertising and big brand logos. With all this negativity in media and personal complaints, they started to change their image. The staff is not all about appearance anymore, the blinded windows are gone and the shirtless male models welcoming at the door are removed. Nowadays the shopping bags just have an Abercrombie & Fitch logo on it and are no longer covered in a black and white male six-pack. The clothing sizes are not just small anymore. Nowadays the sizes go up to size 34/34 and XXL. The brand seems to be self-aware about their issues in the past. Their new longtime vision is being able to reach a broader audience. To achieve that they are trying to make the brand more premium. They started to offer,“timeless styles”. Abercrombie its makeover does not have a clear direction yet. The brand wants to be sophisticated but not too generic. Abercrombie & Fitch focus on their store-experience, that is what makes them stand out. Abercrombie & Fitch really seem to stick to their roots and their basics, by originally being an outdoor brand and maintaining to process outdoor elements in their clothes.
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ADMIRERS
The brand its former CEO Micheal Jeffries quotes about the target group were quite specific: “the clothes are only for beautiful, thin and young people, teenagers and those in their 20s and beyond”. Abercrombie & Fitch is now trying to reach a bigger target group, no longer making a difference between appearance, size or age. Like many teen clothing stores today, Abercrombie & Fitch is feeling the effect of tighter budgets among their customers. Teens are choosing to prioritize electronic gadgets or food when spending their money. Today’s teens want to follow the fast changing trends; there is excitement for brands that are good in quickly changing collections, like Zara. The sexy image has grown old, teens have moved on.
OUTPUT
VISUAL I.D.
Abercrombie & Fitch its clothes are ranged in the higher price segment. Although the brand tries to reach a bigger target group, they still want to remain exclusive. A pair of Abercrombie jeans will cost you about €100 to €120.
In the past their advertising photos were shot in black and white, focusing on the models; especially the male models and their six-packs. Nowadays Abercrombie & Fitch is looking for a new identity. For example; the catalog photos are not in black and white or sexually charged anymore. They are in full color, trying to create a more happy appearance.
The brands Headquarters are based in Ohio. Abercrombie & Fitch has over 700 stores around the world. All of the stores contain their signature look and feel; nightclub dark, the All-American looking staff, perfume smell and loud music. Abercrombie & Fitch wants to stay exclusive, so they choose to have a limited amount of stores in each country.
Abercrombie & Fitch uses a moose for their logo, which refers to their outdoor hunting past. Since Abercrombie was founded by a hunter and was originally an outdoor brand they chose to use a moose, which was the main hunting animal in America, for their logo.
The brand is all about the ‘Abercrombie image’. They always maintain to stick to their signature look. Which means: basic and casual outdoor clothing with a preppy edge. They are not trying to be trendy or experimental in their fashion, they focus on quality. The company its strength truly lays in their consistency. The jeans mainly have yellow stitching and the brand its logo sown on. They are really divers in the fits they offer men and women; they have a range of 47 different types of jeans.
Abercrombie & Fitch is rather arrogant when it comes to the tone of voice in their advertising. They use phrases as: “all of our jeans are the best you’ll ever wear” and “they’re just the perfect fit”. They know their products and what people expect of it.
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Abercrombie its most direct competition is Scotch & Soda when we are talking about retail environment and shop experience. They both put a lot of value in a great store experience and an exclusive appearance. America Today might as well be considered as a competitor relating to their products. Abercrombie & Fitch and America Today both sell basic and sporty casual wear.
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TRUE RELIGION True Religion portrays itself as a real Leo: confident and fearless, all with a nonchalant and energetic attitude. They make themselves be heard and make sure everybody knows their name, because True Religion always tries to be fashion forward, “even from behind”.
ASHES OF THE PAST
Inspired by the influences of the seventies, designer couple Jeffrey and Kym Lubell introduced their premium denim brand “True Religion” to the denim market. Through craftsmanship they wanted to create the best quality jeans ever. True Religion emerged into the Los Angeles denim scene by blowing up the construction of the classic five-pocket jeans. The brand wanted to create a vintage, Western style for iconic and fearless fashion leaders. They wanted to show elegance, confidence and nonchalance.
DNA
True Religion portrays itself as a brand with a high maintenance of quality, some laidback arrogance and a Western vintage style. Their mission is to provide good quality jeans for the ever-stylish fashion leaders and intend to be the best at their job. True Religion is not only known for its special stitch, but also for their nonchalant confidence. Because of their authentic way of creating jeans, True Religion jeans provides some very good quality and they are aware of that. That is why they have a ‘not caring about other peoples opinions’ kind of attitude, because they think they are the best. Their style has a vintage touch, but is also very Western. They always try to be fashion forward, “even from behind.” True Religion sees itself as fearless and capable of crossing boundaries in style.
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ADMIRERS
True Religion focuses on those who are fearless, the ever-stylish fashion leaders and who are able to rock True Religion with a bold attitude. They earn a lot of money and are between the age of 25-40. They already have a good job at a very young age. Those are jobs like magazine editors and young celebrities. These people are mostly based in the city because of their need to show themselves off. The brand uses this by saying they are ever stylish, fearless fashion leaders, because that is what True Religion its target group wants to be.
OUTPUT VISUAL I.D.
The corporate identity is a mix between Western sturdiness and elegance. The graphic design for their website is simple. Full of ruby-reds, denim blues and white, combined with a black, bold but simple font to not distract you from the main part: the photography. For their campaigns they use a lot of photography in a very Western and sensual setting. They usually use women in denim and leather fringe jackets on motorcycles. The iconic horseshoe logo that you see on the products and in their selling channels rose from the silhouette of a Buddha his smile. The horseshoe stands for luck and Buddha is a synonym for faith. If you combine these two things it matches with what True Religion values: confidence because you believe in yourself and the happiness you feel when you obtain this confidence. The tone of voice that True Religion uses is an informal kind of language; you can call it spoken language with a touch of confidence and some laidback humor. Their styles of jeans inherit the swagger of their given name. They are called “The Joey”, “The Ricky”, “The Halle” and etcetera. The interiors of the True Religion stores are decorated with concrete, wood and a lot of lights. This makes a balanced mix between the tough, Western feeling and the stylish elegance True Religion wants to show.
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True Religion is a worldwide company with its headquarters in Vernon, California. Their 900 stores are spread worldwide over 50 countries at six continents. Their products are also being sold at department stores and online shops. The prices of True Religion jeans differentiate between €200 and €450. All of their specialty denim fits, washes and treatments are all designed with amplified vintage details to grab attention at every turn. True Religion sees itself as fearless and capable of crossing boundaries in style. Nevertheless, their collections are more focused on the elegant part of the brand. They use size 23 to 34. Most of the jeans have a vintage wash, but they are always elegant: never destroyed or heavily washed. The innovative stitches True Religion uses are their trademark. That is why the stitches are always very present in the jeans designs. When True Religion was created, not any sewing machine fitted their need to create a new kind of stitch, so they built a new one. With its five-needle thread at two-stitch-per-inch process, their Super T stitch was born and became their trademark that changed the designs of their jeans enormously. True Religion promotes itself by their website and other web shops. They advertise in smaller fashion magazines and also have their own “True Religion Magazine” in which they show their own products. True Religion currently collaborates with supermodel Joan Smalls. Joan’s iconic status has made her a good role model for True Religion’s fearless and stylish target group, because she is confident, elegant and fearless.
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PME LEGEND With roots lying in the cargo airlines, PME Legend is a personification of the sturdy and adventurous men. They constantly refer to the sky-high pilot feeling, symbolizing eternal freedom. With passion for the outdoors and its masculine energy, PME Legend fits the profile of Saggitarius: they act from what they want, not from what they have to.
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ASHES OF THE PAST
PME Legend (Pall Mall Exports Legend) was founded by the Dutch fashion chain Just Brands, owner of the clothing brands Cast Iron Jeans, Tripper Jeans and Vanguard. Just Brands is a fashion company with over 20 years of experience. PME Legend through out the years has become a casual jeans wear brand for men. The fashion label is inspired by the Air Force. The heavy and extreme conditions on the adventurous routes made comfortable clothes of high quality very important for the pilots. In the time of the first airplanes, the jeans quickly became a determinative garment. The rough, tough and sturdy material was perfect for the demanding lifestyle of adventurous pilots.
DNA
PME Legend, according to Frank Uijt Den Boogaard (Creative Art Director of PME), is a Dutch brand that makes wearable and rugged collections for real men. The real PME Legend man is strong and determined. He tells that PME wants to reach their target audience in a different way: “Men need to think; ‘if I buy this, I’m a pilot’. Nowadays the identity of PME still stays true to its Air Force identity. Whatever the destination the pilots must always be prepare for the unexpected. They constantly adapt to the extreme situations they encounter. When there is no comfort to be found, the pilots have to find comfort in the gear they wear. This philosophy is clearly reflected in the collections based on their core values: uncompromised comfort, build to last, flexibility and functionality. Just Brands is the name of the design, logistics, marketing & sales organization behind PME Legend. Just Brands has entered into a partnership with MADE-BY, an organizationworking with fashion brands to make sustainable fashion common practice. Together with MADE-BY, Just Brands will develop strategies to produce clothes sustainably from raw material to end product, under fixed employment conditions.
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ADMIRERS
PME legend offers a complete range of rugged and masculine clothing for men from the age of 20 to 40 years old. They focus on the modern man with his own identity. According to the PME philosophy, the real PME Legend-man has a strong personality and is not afraid to take on challenges. These are urban men who tend towards the outdoors and have an active life. To reach this group the brand communicates in a sturdy and masculine way. For example the online series they launched a year ago about the renewed Commander jeans. It was a short movie divided into three episodes on which could be subscribed through the website.
VISUAL I.D.
PME Legend’s visual identity is all about communicating the pilotlook with a casual and no nonsense feeling. The images and videos they use on their website and campaigns represent this feeling. All of them have been shot in Tucson Arizona around the AMARC area of the U.S. Air Force. This location gives an extra dimension to the pictures with a real American touch. They try to capture the Air Force feeling in their retail environments as well. As soon as you enter a PME Legend store it looks like you walk into an airplane hangar with a high industrial ceiling and enormous aircraft propellers. Besides the interior decoration, they also show their film campaigns on big screens. The total store design communicates a sturdy and masculine environment. In their visual presentation they appear to identify in black and yellow. The typography consists of basic bold letters mixed and sometimes have a damaged look. The airline history of the brand is well represented in their overall branding strategy. The logo displays the wings of an eagle, visualizing the rough strength and power PME stands for. And again refers to the sky-high pilot feeling and the wings of their planes.
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OUTPUT
PME puts itself out there by maintaining a great balance in their marketing mix. Fine and luxurious but also rugged fabrics in various styles with comfort in fit and sizing, characterize the products of PME Legend. The prices vary from €50 to €150, which puts them in the middle segment of denim brands. Another characterizing and distinctive element of the brand is the perfect fit and size range which goes up to size XXXL. Especially for people with bigger sizes PME Legend is a suitable solution for finding good fitting denim. Both online as in offline retail, PME Legend developed into an international success. They have 1500 stores spread over the Benelux and with its only 15 years of existence, the brand already delivered some real classics: the pilot jacket worn by Tom Cruise in the movie Top Gun, the Aviator jeans and its successor the Bare Metal jeans. This jean is known for its various washings, large side pockets, curved back pockets and curved legs.
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VINGINO As a kids denim brand, Vingino is playful all over. They are energetic with an exploring attitude, being stubborn in a good way! Their adventurous and freedom seeking heart levels with the fire filled soul of the Sagittarius.
ASHES OF THE PAST
Vingino was founded by soccer player Benny Dekker. Benny his father in law was already in textile business for over 40 years. Together they originally began as a kids clothing company Vingino. Later, they added jeans to the collection and the brand began to grow rapidly. But they did not just want to create clothing for children; they wanted to give every single child all over the world a better future and indirectly create a better world. Since children are the most important base for the brand, Benny Dekker named the brand after his two children; Vince and Gino.
DNA
Caring, sturdy, playful and somewhat stubborn; these four things are the best way to describe this kid’s jeans label. Next to playful and well affordable clothing, Vingino wants to make a contribution to society and try to create a better future for children all over the world. A perfect price to quality ratio has enabled Vingino to attain a strong position in retail outlets in the Netherlands and abroad. Children are the base for the collection of Vingino. Vingino’s clothes are besides fashionable also safe and sustainability is important to the brand. Vingino’s clothes shall be worn safely and are socially- and environmentally responsible. Vingino has a special code of conduct for all the manufacturers they work with. The main points of this code of conduct are the rights of the child, a minimum wage, hygiene, and good working circumstances. Vingino also cares about the wellbeing of animals, that is why they only use organic cotton and fake leather labels.
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ADMIRERS
Vingino focuses mainly on children, but also on babies and toddlers. For teens they have a special collection, which has a more grown-up style. Vingino addresses to parents that are conscious of the future of the youth. Also, they think every parent deserves to give their children fashionable clothes for a good price. By broadcasting their commercials on children’s TV channels and using a playful, sturdy and heroic corporate identity, Vingino makes children enthusiastic for the brand. By stressing the importance of the wellbeing of the environment, animals and especially children, Vingino gets the attention of the parents as well.
VISUAL I.D.
Vingino’s corporate identity is very sturdy and suggests playing outside and crossing new borders. In their online and offline promotion they make use of wooden elements, rough painted white walls and faded fonts for their titles. The main colors that are being used are browns, faded white, black and blue. The logo is a combination of the first letters of Benny Dekker his two sons. They chose a red color for the logo because of the powerful effect it has, which rhymes perfectly with the values of the brand. The photography they use for their promotion, both online and offline contains al lot of images of children playing outside, being happy. The photos are often a little bit faded for a rough, used look. The tone of voice is a playful, but also a very heroic one; either in how they encourage children to do whatever they want, as in their seriousness about creating a better future for them. The interior of Vingino’s fashion environments is decorated with wooden floors, brick walls, pillars with white tiles and white ceilings.
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OUTPUT
With well-tailored models and innovative washings, Vingino creates a uniqe look in every collection. Their jeans always have outstanding details like embroideries, big texts, ornamental stitching and rhinestones. Their vintage washings and the use of color in their collections show playfulness within the jeans. Vingino maintains kids sizes 80-176 and baby sizes 29-34. The price of a pair of jeans is €40 - €60. Vingino has 1200 selling points divided over Holland, Germany, Italy, Austria and Scandinavia. Vingino is still expanding. They also sell their clothes at department stores and web shops for kids clothing. Vingino is being promoted at Vingino TV, Vingino Magazine and on social media like Facebook, Instagram, Youtube and Twitter. To promote the brand they introduced the Vingino Denim Weeks once a year. Vingino’s commercials are broadcasted on kids TV-channels. They support charities like SOS Kinderdorpen that are, just like them, concerned with children. By focusing on a better future for every child, they distinct themselves from the rest of the kids denim market. Also the perfect price to quality ratio has enabled Vingino to attain a strong position in retail outlets in the Netherlands and abroad.
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EARTH
Earth, the firm foundation on which everything is built. Solid and stable. Earth signs base their actions on seriousness and security. They are realistic and goal-orientated and therefore masters of turning ideas into reality. They are dependable, practical and conservative, yet fairly materialistic. Earth signs know what they want; their stubborn minds will not easily be changed. Earth signs are rock-steady and realistic. Zodiacs that come from earth are Capricorn, Taurus and Virgo. Capricorn is the most masculine, serious and straightforward. Taurus loves security and comfort. Virgo is perfectionistic, industrious and modest. These three signs believe in human abilities and timing, rather than intuition. Analyzed brands that fit in the element earth are Wrangler, Jack&Jones, Gap, NYDJ, Denham and Acne.
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JACK & JONES Jack & Jones is a brand that is known for its wide approachability and masculine products. It stands for quality, craftsmanship and affordable products for a broad target group. This results in the fact that Jack & Jones stands for a typical Capricorn.
ROOTS
It was in Denmark, mid 70s when Troels Holch Povlsen and his wife started the company called Bestsellers. Their aim was to provide fast affordable fashion for women, men, teenagers and chil-dren. 40 Years later the family company Bestsellers owned 11 brands in total, including Jack & Jones. It was during the early 90s when Bestsellers came up with this brand, which focuses on authentic style, great fits and affordable prices for every man. The following years, the brand mani-fests as one of the strongest jeans brands on the market.
INWARDLY
Bestsellers positions itself as “one world, one philosophy, one family.� This goes for every single one of their brands as well. By Jack & Jones we see this in the way they produce and how they choose their partners to work with. The jeans are still made in de same way and by the same peo-ple, as in the early days of their existence. Jack & Jones can rely on the knowledge and quality of their Italian partners to accomplish their vision. The brand aims to produce quality jeans with an authentic look and a perfect fit, for a reasonable price. Jack & Jones tries to differentiate themselves by taking care of the world as well of their company. They are member of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), which aims to make global cotton production better. This is a good initiative as 75% of all raw material used in Jack & Jones comes from cotton. Besides taking their responsibility for cotton use, they also refuse to take part in animal cruelty. So every piece of leather they use comes from animals that are raised for the food industry and nei-ther of their products will include real fur. With all the producing they create a lot of waste as well. At the moment Jack & Jones is already using textile waste for some of their products and the search for more developments in this area is still going on. They believe that a long life of a garment starts with design, the right materials and the way it has been processed and produced.
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SUPPORTERS
A fashionable metropolitan man, between the 18 and 30 years old, who is smart and well-educated is the target group of Jack & Jones. Still this is quite general and therefor they divided their brand in five different styles, which all hand their customers Scandinavian simplicity in a different way.
INNER TRANSLATION
Jack & Jones has a clear contrasting, black and white layout for their website and mainly titles written in capital letters. The design has a masculine look and does not show a lot of details nor authenticity. The Scandinavian simplicity is something really clear in this website. Their logo is strong and has the recognizable double J in the red square between the two parts of the name. Just as their website their stores are black and white with some industrial rough elements as wooden tables and steel shelving units. Sometimes outstanding elements as industrial boxes or oil barrels are used as small details. The photos are mostly taken with a group of men, who all represent a different target group. Their pic-tures are often taken in an industrial atmosphere, this reflects into the interior of the stores as well. Because of this broad targeting, which is clear in their visuals and the styles they offer, the brand comes off more approachable.
Jack & Jones Vintage Clothing offers authentic but modern jeans wear with special washings and details for the though, masculine man with appreciation for the jeans classics. Premium by Jack & Jones stands for high quality and iconic pieces to provide the stylish man with a modern appearance of a classic but contemporary look. Originals by Jack & Jones is inspired by indie-and urban pop culture scene and offers the hip, creative guys an easy going style based on the latest fashion. Core by Jack & Jones, a fresh and stylish collection for fashionforward guys with an eye for innovation, is inspired by street wear and based on a graphical concept. Jack & Jones Tech is all about functionality and comfort without compromising on style and fashion, for everyday life.
APPROACH
Jeans have always played a big role in the personification of Jack & Jones and motivated to de-velop and grow the brand. They aim to produce quality jeans with different details and washings without any compromise, for a reasonable price of â‚Ź80. Except for their well-known jeans wear, they also offer a range of other products. All of these products are made with care; by people who care for an environment they want to keep as clean as possible. Still the idea of the founders of Bestsellers is staying truth; provide fast affordable fashion for everyone, but in a sustainable way. Jack & Jones aims to produce sustainable craft products for a reasonable price, in this way they compete with the H&M group. To reach a broad target group they are selling in 38 countries around the world. Besides their own selling points the brand is also sold by thousands of wholesale partners around the world and still counting. They also try to gain ground on the Internet, by using social media as Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Youtube.
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WRANGLER Wrangler is known for its tough, durable and comfortable products. While being based in the solid earth, it focusses on comfort, heritage and strong materials. With their passion for outdoor products and masculine attitude, it is seen as a Capricorn.
ROOTS
Wrangler is one of the few iconic American denim brands with a long history and was created with the idea of making the best possible jeans for cowboys. In the 40s a company named Blue Bell, purchased the rights to the name Wrangler. They began with developing a line of jeans specifically for cowboys and rodeo use. The first western style: ‘13MWZ’ quickly became known as the “only jean a cowboy could wear” and is still available today worldwide. Through out the years Wrangler grew and eventually was sold to the VF Corporation, who also owns other denim brands like Lee and 7forallMankind.
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INWARDLY
The western image created by Blue Bell is still alive in the identity of the brand. Wrangler’s manly and rough character runs like a red thread through the whole brand. However, to approach a younger and also female audience it has been enhanced with a more modern en stylish character. But still being that authentic and masculine brand it was from the start. The brand strives to let everyone enjoy the comfortable lifestyle that the rodeo cowboys once had but with a raw modern twist. They took elements of the cowboys lifestyle like nature, living with animals, having courage and made that their main focus. The jeans are made to be as tough, steady and practical as the people who wear them to provide them in their needs. This also reflects the brands pay-off: “No matter where the destination, wear your heart out”. With their core values being honesty, consideration and respect, Wrangler believes integrity never goes out of style and aspires to promote the American Dream around the globe.
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SUPPORTERS
Wrangler produces jeans for the active male and female between the age of 18 and 60. They live in spaces around the big cities and love to be active outside. For them it is all about durability and dependability. When buying something it’s mostly out of necessity. They don’t care much about following trends but do like to experiment with their clothes. The typical Wrangler consumer is focused on buying objects with long lasting quality. To reach towards their target group the brand uses an interactive tone of voice in their advertising and website. For example: they use the customer’s location to help them pick a suitable jean for the planned activity and weather that day.
INNER TRANSLATION
Wrangler cares about its heritage and is therefore reflected in their visual identity. In their latest “Born Ready” campaign the brand goes back to their roots focusing on the outdoor life. The signature rope logo is iconic for its jeans and mirrors their vision of being the original American outdoor denim brand. The colors they use are very contrasting: soft colors like grey, beige and white mixed with strong colors like black and night blue. Here you can also see nature its influence on the brand. In order to support these features, Wrangler campaigns are always shot in an active outdoor setting. They have a very pure look and feel. The tone of voice of Wrangler is very friendly and warm, speaking to their consumers as equals creating a respectful relationship. Wrangler’s fashion environment reflects the brands American heritage by using rough materials as steel, wood and glass. The stores represent an old fashion ‘workshop office’ with typical western window frames and industrial lamps combined with a more contemporary twist. In October 2015 they opened a new flagship store in Berlin and introduced a new store design. It features a cleaner and more minimalistic look to attract a younger target group. Still both stores have a very outdoor and active feeling to it.
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APPROACH
Wrangler’s unique selling points are about comfort and style at an affordable price. A pair of jeans is priced at €70 to €100 with focus on functionality, comfort and quality. The Wrangler jeans are mostly plain and basic color washed with a distinctive trim label on the right back pocket. The importance of the functionality led to some characteristics in the design: flat rivets that will not scratch the saddle, customized watch pouches, 7 belt loops, completely flat stitched seams, W-stitching, the Wrangler patch and the rope logo. These elements should make the jean last during intense activities. While designing the jeans Wrangler keeps the customers needs in mind by creating special jeans segments for different environments. Thereby they create their ‘rain ready’, ‘cold ready’ and ‘active ready’ jeans for men. Wrangler strives to let people achieve a comfortable and active lifestyle with help from their products. Wrangler’s broad and diverse audience leads them to distribute worldwide in their own stores as well as in multi-brand stores. To get in touch with their target group they created an interactive website and use social media to fulfill their needs.
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GAP With GAP you know what to expect. The brand has an iconic reputation with its optimistic, down-to-earth attitude. Their casual approach makes you feel comfortable. The brand can be seem as solid and practicle which makes them a Taurus, litteraly portrayed with its paws in earth.
ROOTS
What if finding the perfect pair of jeans could be easy? That was the inspiration Gap’s founders, Doris and Don Fisher, had for opening the first Gap store in San Francisco, California in 1969. It was strategically placed near two colleges and a high school. In effort to attract 12 to 25 year-olds, they came up with a catchy brand name: The Gap, named for the gap between the silent generation and baby boomers. The store stocked ‘three tons’ of Levi Strauss jeans, in every size and color. Their strategy to sell jeans and records has earned a place in pop culture history. By 1972, Gap had become Gap Inc. Fisher stopped selling records to focus on clothing, and the company started making its own brand of jeans. In the 70s, Gap ads attracted a different audience: the target young adult shoppers. Gap’s story and fashion perspective quickly spread with the opening of more stores across the U.S. and the launch of their own label focused on delivering casual-American style apparel at moderate price points.
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INWARDLY
The optimistic attitude and classic American style resonated with customers and helped transform Gap into a global fashion icon. In a nutshell, Gap clothing is dressed-down yet sharp, casual yet fashionable, and preppy without being pretentious. From the start, Gap Inc.’s story was not going to be limited to just selling jeans. Doris and Don Fisher made certain that integrity would become a hallmark of their business. Their philosophy is simple: “We seek to make a positive, lasting impact on the people and in the places where we operate.” They create customer value by operating from 5 brand values: Integrity, respect, open-mindedness, quality and balance. Over the past 45 years, Gap corporate leaders listened to the public when it came to changing trends and in-demand fashions. Their flexible mindset made it easy for them to listen to their customers and to fulfill their wishes, such as the logo change. Gap wants its customer to ‘wear their passion’. Gap’s founders, are a big source of inspiration for generations of Gap employees, to “do more than sell clothes.” They want to improve our social and environmental performance, so Gap Inc. is sustainably active and they focus on things like; ecologic prints, energy efficiency and waste reduction.
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SUPPORTERS
Men, women, kids and babies wear Gap styles. Their age segment is ranging from 17 to 25 years old. The typical family life cycle for a gap customer comprises of single teenagers and young adults to young married couples who also buy Gap for their children. The income segment is middle to upper-class individuals who reside in urban or suburban areas in developed countries such as the U.S. and Japan. Common occupations of Gap customers include: high school and college students, entry-level college graduates and young working, married couples. Gap customers tend to be energetic, work/ career oriented and active people who have significant time to shop. In addition, their customers have a sense of style sophistication in their wardrobe and are confident individuals who feel they are buying the best product available.
INNER TRANSLATION
Gap’s visual identity is all about communicating a relaxed, effortless American classic look. They try to give the customer the feeling that they can wear Gap clothing anytime, anywhere, with their ‘Dress Normal’ commercials for example. Gap’s collections are a modern interpretation of their denim roots and signature pieces that are a staple for every wardrobe. Gap embraces a youthful, infectious spirit and the freedom to express individual style. What sets them apart from other brands is their choice for down-to-earth expressions in their corporate identity, such as Gap’s easy navy and white square logo. Their ‘individuals of style’ campaign shaped their tone of voice. They used both celebrities and unknown models in their daily clothes. Gap clothing didn’t appear in all advertisements, making the message clear – Gap style was more about the customer than the garment. The company its optimistic, music-driven adds used classic songs and this made them even more successful. Since 2002, the company returned its focus to clothing basics—jeans, khakis, and pocket T-shirts. Their fashion environment is a translation of the down-to-earth mentality and is characterized by white walls and shelves and high-gloss wood floors. From a wall of choice in denim to a place kids and parents love to shop. Gap’s variety of locations worldwide reflects the rich diversity of its customers.
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APPROACH
Gap focuses on the lower price segment by offering quality denim for a reasonable price. Therefore a pair of Gap jeans costs between €20 and €70. You will find classic characteristics such as button closures, zip flies, and five-pocket styling. They run in a broad range of sizes from petite to tall and they are typically fitted through the hip and thigh for flattering comfort. Gap had become the leading retailer with over 3,500 stores across the globe and is very active on social media. They use for example; Facebook, Instagram (1 million followers) and Twitter. Now ‘Gap inc.’ combines 6 primary divisions: The Namesake Banner, Old Navy, Banana Republic, Piperlime, Athleta and Intermix.
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NOT YOUR DAUGHTERS JEANS With a good eye for trustable and comfortable jeans, NYDJ has a solid base and creates practical jeans which can be used every day. This makes it a Taurus: a brand which is reliable in its promises and which stays close to its values.
ROOTS
A search for the perfect jeans was the start of NYDJ (Not Your Daughter’s Jeans). The in California based denim brand was launched in 2003 by apparel industry insider Lisa Rudes Sandel who had a vision of designing jeans for woman with womanly bodies like herself. A negative experience while shopping in a department store got the idea started. Just like many woman Rudes Sandel got discouraged when the fashionable brands did not fit or flatter her forty-ish figure properly or seem true to the label. Instead of giving up on jeans she recognized a gap in the denim market for woman who wanted to look and feel great in their jeans, just like herself. Today, the brand is an internationally known lifestyle business that includes a wide range clothing items but still with the focus on denim.
INWARDLY
NYDJ believes in the transformative power of fashion, wanting to make women all over the world feel comfortable and beautiful. They state that woman of all ages, races, religions and backgrounds have trouble reducing weight on their tummy and therefore cannot wear the jeans they would like to wear. Their clearly visible female brand identity runs as a red thread through the company. They want to be as close to their target group as possible in order to put their knowledge into their products, which makes NYDJ a reliable denim brand. NYDJ wants to be there for real woman with real curves and therefore tries to stand out from other denim brands by focusing on woman that were never answered before. Giving them confidence to look and feel great in their jeans. NYDJ wants to be there for every woman who has ever sacrificed comfort over style or style over comfort. This makes those two aspects the brands core values. NYDJ states it does not care much about following the latest trends but more about creating stylish looks for every time of the day.
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SUPPORTERS
With the name ‘Not Your Daughters Jeans’ the brand meant to reach the baby boomers. Middle aged woman who are in there 50’s with teenage daughters. Because of their advantage by selling jeans that flatter your figure the customers are mostly bigger in size that want to feel comfortable and look great in their jeans. However the brand does not want to exclude people and tries to reach a broader audience, talking about the ‘modern woman’. Someone of all ages, whether they are mom or not, that doesn’t has the standard figure but still cares about their appearance.
APPROACH
INNER TRANSLATION
As NYDJ only targets itself on women, their brand identity breathes femininity. The whole setting of the company is very relaxed, charming, warm, natural and elegant. Using safe colors as white and purple through their visual identity and a flowy roman yet feminine typography for their logo. Their campaigns have a fresh and lady-like feel and are all about attracting the average woman and make them feel comfortable in their own skin. NYDJ mostly use well-known celebrities as spokespersons, such as Oprah Winfrey. They find it important that the customers can compare themselves with the people behind the jeans and value the relationship it makes. In order to make their target group feel comfortable NYDJ uses a very friendly and positive tone of voice. They use a lot of quotes that spread out good vibes for women all over the world. The fashion environment of NYDJ has a casual chic setting. They want to keep it simple, organized and practical by using their main colors as a base with clear signs to show of their different products.
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NYDJ jeans is known for its Tummy Tuck jean line which is made of 2% more spandex then the average jeans brand. The spandex holds in the mid area and is supposed to provide a sleeker and slimmer look. Because of their distinctive Lift Tuck technology the price varies between €100 and €180, which is higher then most moms would spend on a pair of jeans. NYDJ offers a wide range of popular denim styles in a range of fabric washes as well as offering styles designed for petite, short, tall and plus-size women. Because of the brand’s international awareness the collection is available in 2500 different stores in 18 countries and owns a big worldwide web shop. NYDJ does not have its own stores but is sold in shop-in-shops at department stores and smaller boutiques. In order to get in contact with their target group and to promote them, NYDJ is very active on social media. They post a lot of styling tips and positive quotes and have also been featured in several magazines, such as InStyle, Glamour and Marie Claire.
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ACNE By having a trustworthy and industrious image, Acne is seen as a strong Virgo. Their products breathe independency and perfectionism combined with a straight forward feeling. It offers refined and unique items, which are separated in different price ranges.
ROOTS
It all started in 1996: when Johnny Johansson, Mikael Schiller and two others founded a digital film-designcreative consulting collective and named it Acne Studios. The name Acne stands for ‘Ambition to Create Novel Expression’. The Acne Studio brand is founded in 1997 when Johnny decided to produce 100 simple, straight-legged raw denim jeans with red stitching and gave them to his friends all around Stockholm. His aim was to see the jeans on cool creative people. His plan worked out: because of them, other people be-sides their friends started wearing their jeans too. That is how the brand started to grow and add more items to the collection.
INWARDLY
The core of Acne Studios is built on Johnny Johansson his creative vision. Driven by his interest in art, archi-tecture and contemporary culture, they have found an alternative path. Although at first the founders had no knowledge of how to run a fashion brand, the philosophy of self-expression and minimalism turned Acne Studios into a well-respected fashion house. Their philosophy has always been about creating effortlessly cool streetwear fashion. The luxury brand defines itself by its attention to detail, its experimental use of materials and its emphasis on tailoring. Acne is not just about fashion and therefore aims to create a modern framework for individuality within a multidis-ciplinary fashion environment. Acne believes in: ‘Being contemporary, because of being contemporary can make you historic.’ They create customer value by being straightforward, sincere, taking a minimal approach and integrity.
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SUPPORTERS
Acne Studios is a brand that attracts attention from a wide range of people both men and women from 25 to 35 years old. However, the prices are quite high, which allows a smaller target group to be able to buy Acne. Acne’s target group exists out of people with a good taste in design, quality and an eye for detail. They are between 25 and 35 years old, have a large budget to spend and consider their items as an investment.
APPROACH
INNER TRANSLATION
Acne’s corporate identity is clear, straight forward and to the point. Its clean appearance creates a business-like feeling. It gives the brand a mysterious, intelligent and honorable nature. For instance, the recently changed logo consists just the brand’s name in a minimalistic sans-serif font. The change in logo in combination with the typography on the website and the Acne Paper (the biannual magazine of Acne) makes the overall style even cleaner than before. The color usage of Acne limits itself to earth colors such as black, white, grey, sand tones and often a dash of color. For instance, the websites its homepage shows a campaign with Jonny Johansson his son dressed in one of the brands light blue statement coats on a grey sand background. Acne Studios has stores all over the world, each with their own design and atmosphere based on the city. The Acne concept is still consistent in every single one of them. The used materials are carefully selected and a harmonious color palette is used. The fashion environment revolves around the idea of having an open retail space that is neat and simple. It is supposed to be accessible and calm and the emphasis has to be pointed towards the concept and the products .
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Acne never uses traditional methods of advertising, which contributes to the brand’s mysterious and intelligent image. Each of Acne’s endeavors has an advertising function: one of the examples of branding is the biannual magazine. Acne does not show a lot of its own products. In their magazine it is not about the product, it is about presenting a concept, a world that Acne believes in and that inspires the consumer and makes them desire a pieces of Acne’s world. Acne Studios is well known in big cities and they own 650 outlets in 66 countries all over the world. The brands jeans have plain pockets, without embroideries or extra stitching. For example the latest collections do not have any brand label on the outside. This is a way for them to put the emphasis on the tailoring. The prices for Acne pair of jeans starts at €160 and goes up to €300.
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DENHAM Denham is a brand which offers solid, trustworthy and refined denim. It is a modest brand with an eye for detail and good quality. Their collection is based on basic and high-quality finished jeans for the conscious young urban adult. Because of their refined and trustworthy products, it is a typical Virgo.
ROOTS
Denham is a Dutch brand, founded by Jason Denham in 2008. He is born and raised in the UK. From a young age he was always surrounded by denim and denim tools. His career started with designing jeans for the pop group called U2. After this, he worked for several denim brands where he learned the tricks of the denim trade. Jason worked at Pepe Jeans for 17 years and when Pepe Jeans moved its headquarter to Amsterdam, he moved with it. He started a new brand called Blue Blood in collaboration with Steve te Pas. Eventually he wanted to create his very own brand and this resulted in the brand Denham.
INWARDLY
Denham is convinced by the thought that you need to understand the past, in order to be successful in the future. It worships the tradition and destroys the convention. Old traditions are combined with new innovations, which create a balance in the designs. The details, trims and the fit are central values for the jeans. Denham wants to create jeans that start as a ‘virgin’ and end as vintage item. The brand is seen as minimalistic, basic and solid combined with clean rawness. Denham is a jeans brand from origin and places itself in the luxury denim segment. It is a famous brand in the Netherlands, and it is on its way to become a global denim player. The brand distinguishes itself by designing jeans, which are striking in quality, fit and finishing. People who buy their jeans at Denham, also buy the story, the way of producing and the values of the brand. Denham’s products stand for tradition and inno-vation combined in a modest, basic and long lasting jeans. The products are created with high quality denim from Italy and Ja-pan and with care for the details. Denham characterizes itself by its seven point pocket on the back of every jeans This makes a jeans, together with a stitched-on scissors sign, a Denham product.
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INNER TRANSLATION
Its corporate identity can be described as a modern craftsman label with the intent to charge preconceptions of jeans. Colors such as light blue, black, grey and white create the cool and minimalistic feeling together with clean and raw elements. The scissors are a signature aspect for Denham. They chose for the scissors because of Jason Denham his background in the denim industry. Besides that, it is also a sign of craftsmanship. The scissors in the logo can be seen as a celebration of ‘two blades working together’. There are over 250 locations in the world where you can buy Denham products. The brand is located in the creative areas in a city, such as De Negen Straatjes in Amsterdam and Mitte in Berlin. This is a good way to reach its target group. The stores can be described as pure and minimalistic, combined with wood and rough elements. It sells clothing, but also vintage items and a couple of pieces from Jason Denham his private collection. There is a service point in the store, where Denham can fix your broken jeans and there are a lot of authentic and original denim tools visible. These are all signs that Denham stands for more than just a pair of jeans.
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SUPPORTERS
Denham focuses on both men and women from the age of 20 till 50. They have an urban lifestyle and are interested in the products they buy. The story behind the product is important for these people, they care about the product and are often familiar with the brand and the fashion world. A modal to high income is necessary for this brand and therefore the jeans are seen as an investment. It is not bought as formal wear, but as good and solid casual wear.
APPROACH
A Denham jeans distinguishes itself mostly by attention for the trims, details and the fit. It offers a lot of different models, colors, washes and sizes which makes it a clear jeans brand. A Denham jean is offered in the price category starting from €150 to €500. Noteworthy, Denham is a very unsustainable brand, which ranks low in surveys about sustainability. They have a couple of stores on their own and an online store. Besides that, they have many selling points in bigger and luxurious warehouses. It is quite known in the Netherlands, but also growing fast abroad. In Asia it is becoming a new and fast upcoming denim player. Denham is not a brand which has a lot of big advertisements. They focus on their target group and the tools their target group uses. Denham is active on several social media platforms and is regularly featured in different magazine editorials.
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AIR
Air, the power of mind, the force of intellect. It is the vital spirit passing through all things. Air signs think before they feel. They love to analyze, synthesize and probe and for that reason they can be perfectionists. They are able to approach things light-hearted and objective. Though, this can make them come across as cold and insensitive. Air signs are cooperative and communicative. Yet, they pursue to be independent. With their future focused minds, they are constantly seeking for new opportunities. Air signs are intellectual, versatile and idealistic. Libra, Aquarius and Gemini are zodiacs that are been shaped by air. Libra is the most harmonious, neutral and accomodating . Aquarius is the more independent, wayward and stubborn thinker. Gemini translates it’s air characteristics in a more outspoken, vibrant and playfull way. All three focus on intellect rather than feeling. Analysed brands that are in line with the element air are Brax, Paige, Ksubi and Cheap Monday.
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BRAX BRAX portrays itself as a solidary and reliable brand without a very distinctive style or opinion. They are neutral and accommodating and prefer comfortable and perfect fitted clothing for every occasion. Because of their balanced and harmonious identity BRAX stands as a Libra.
THE STORY BEHIND
In 1888 there was an increase in the demand for ready-to-wear clothing. Tailor Bernward Leineweber and his wife Mary therefore opened a store for men’s ready-to-wear clothing in Berlin. The goal was to offer ready-towear clothing for everyone. They survived the First World War, but the Great Depression brought the company to its knees. After The Great Depression, a young entrepreneur named Tengelmann took over the company. He made Leineweber very successful after World War Two by answering the people’s needs during the reconstruction. He transformed Leineweber into BRAX. BRAX has earned his success by their so-called “progressive jeans”. In the year 2000, the company started a relaunch with the slogan; “BRAX Feel Good”. This communicates a positive feeling for life and the emotional value for which the brand stands. The brand that once started as a small ready-to-wear brand with their focus on denim and trousers has now grown into an international brand.
INDIVIDUALITY
The philosophy of BRAX started with the goal to offer ready-to-wear clothing for everyone. They believe that everyone should be able to wear the same clothes. BRAX stands for high-quality garments and a perfect fit. The brand portrays itself as trustworthy, transparent and fair. It aims to be the most successful European brand for premium casual clothing. As they say; “our international mindset and our will to succeed are the keys to our future”. Their vision is that being comfortable and sustainable is important if you are a futureoriented company. The core values are individuality, modernity and honesty. Their mission to comfort people is definitely the most distinctive and conspicuous thing about BRAX.
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CORPORATE IDENTITY
In its corporate design BRAX translates their values: being comfortable, trustworthy and clear. The typography and online compositions make the brand very accessible for a lot of people, due to the very modern and casual chic style. The typography is therefore modern and simple, without decoration. Headings are written in capitals, so it is even more explicit to read. The logo of BRAX stands for the first progressive collection of the brand and shows the simplicity and modernity of the brand because of the chosen typography. BRAX also tries to make their brand accessible by using very soft, basic colors like blue and beige, to create a warm and welcoming ambiance. BRAX’s style can be recognized by the use of classic elements combined with today its trend. In their campaigns they use more neutral models with a happy facial expression, what makes them more accessible and show that they are just like everyone. Their fashion environment is designed to comfort and make people feel welcome, because of the spacious rooms and warm colors. According to everything told and shown by the brand, their tone of voice could be described as solid and reliable.
TARGET GROUP
The target group of BRAX consists of men and women from the age of 50 till 80. They are often high educated, wealthy people from the West of Europe, who want to stay up to date with the times. When they go shopping, they prefer quality to quantity. They are located in a quiet neighborhood, not too far from the city center. Their style can be described as a luxurious combined with a modern classic feel. It also has a sense of comfort and sportsmanship. The target group is sportive yet active, and likes to play golf for instance. This is a hobby BRAX smartly responds to by launching a special golf collection, as well as other sport collections.
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POLICY
BRAX’s jeans are made for comfort and to make people feel good. They use premium fabrics made of high quality cotton. Most of their jeans models are five-pocket models. The buttons and stitches are basic and don’t ask for too much attention in the main look of the jeans. The X is a returning token in the trims of BRAX’s jeans. It stands for the X in the name of the brand. The colors and washings BRAX uses on their jeans are similar to the expressive values of the brand, basic, modern and classic. The price range is between €90 and €120 for a normal jeans. Nowadays BRAX is an international brand with more than 1750 shop-in-shops and 100 shops worldwide. The head office still is located in Germany. BRAX advertises both online and offline. They have online commercials and post photos on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter. They are striving to be one of the most sustainable brands, and take their responsibility for the environment very seriously.
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PAIGE Not being size zero and looking more than great: Paige is all about creating a comfortable, loving and neutral environment for their customers. The brand is optimistic by heart and blows out air filled with pride like a Libra would.
THE STORY BEHIND
Many years of expertise as a fit model brought Paige Adams-Geller to start her own company in jeans wear. After her turbulent life of fighting with eating disorder, she realized that she led an unhealthy lifestyle. She entered an in-patient treatment facility to learn how to eat normally and to accept the healthy body she has got now. This led to a new career as a fit model for such brands as: 7 for All Mankind, True Religion, Guess and many others. Paige learned a lot during these 5 years. She got the opportunity to look at the design and production process of jean making. In 2003 Paige wanted to celebrate life by introducing her brand Paige Premium Denim in Los Angeles. This also made her the first female founder of a premium denim company.
INDIVIDUALITY
Paige thinks you do not have to be a size zero to look and feel great in a pair of designer jeans. Paige is passionate about designing pieces that reflect and celebrate a healthy and happy life that has to be lived to the fullest. They believe that every choice you have ever made - the big ones, the small ones, the right and the wrong ones has led you to this moment where you are now. They believe that the best story you can make and share is the one of your own life. The philosophy arises from Paige Adams-Gellers’ past personal body issues and personal values. Therefore the brand aims to design jeans that work like a charm, that makes you stand tall in what you are wearing and takes you where you want to go. Soon the brand became known for its “best butt jeans”.The fit of the jeans is reliable and usually made out of quality textiles. Style-wise the jeans are a combination of cutting edge and basic fashion. Paige is an advocate of a healthy and positive self image and because of that, the brand likes to work with a lot of charities, such as: The National Eating Disorders of America, to help individuals and families with eating disorders. But also The Rape Foundation to take care of rape victims.
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TARGET GROUP
CORPORATE IDENTITY
The brand’s basic appearance goes in line with the basic clothing the brand offers. They use mainly black, grey and white in the layout of their website. This means that last season its photos mainly create the atmosphere. Paige likes to work with a colored or blurred background in their pictures. These determine the kind of feeling of the (seasonal) collection. Product photos are always taken on the body with a grey to white degrade background, no matter what season or year it is from. The products are described in serif font, which gives an authentic and vintage feeling. However, the menu and the logo are written in sans serif font, which makes them look way more contemporary, clean and modern. The mix of fonts expresses the different sides of the brand, which gives a friendly and open impression. The stores that the brand owns are clean, open, light, with white walls and wooden floors. The logo is always written in the same sans serif font and colored black or white. The name will be mainly aligned on left and never exact in the middle. This has to do with the more open feeling of the brand. Their white shopping bags feel like a blank page where you are free to add a bit of your personal touch.
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With their position in the higher segment, Paige focuses on fashionable women and men with an average age of 30 years, who have a higher income and would like to invest in a good pair of jeans. The jeans are designed to be worn as daily wear or as a piece of a party outfit, so from morning to moonlight. They should be combined with every style and every moment. This is why they stay basic. Their jeans have to make the customer feel comfortable and confident, so they aim to have a good fit.
POLICY
Paige mainly focuses on producing denim basics. Every style they create is washed and wear-tested in Los Angeles and stand for quality jeans with commitment to the craft. They have a range of 11 different styles. Each of these styles has very different washings, details and colors. Their aim for good quality and well-designed denim reflects in the price. A pair of Paige jeans costs at least â‚Ź175.This means that the brand is segmented in the high-end fashion. Paige denim is sold in their own stores located in New York, Los Angeles and on their own web shop. Paige also sells in luxurious department stores as Selfridges England and Printemps Paris. Furthermore, they gain ground in online international web shops as Net-a-porter and Shopbop. Paige makes use of social media as Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest and Twitter to reach their target group. They also have a monthly newsletter to keep their customers up to date when it comes to new collections, sales and exclusive web offers. With a minimum amount of advertising and events they try to stay exclusive.
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CHEAP MONDAY Cheap Monday is known for its individualistic, off the beaten track attitude. They want to be seen as a unique and authentic brand apart from the mainstream. Hence their unpredictable, headstrong and stubborn characteristics Cheap Monday is a typical Aquarius.
THE STORY BEHIND
The Swedish clothing label Cheap Monday was born in 2004 at a trendy second-hand store called Weekday. From the start the shop carried high fashion and unique denim brands mixed with second hand clothing. Ă–rjan Andersson, one of the owners of Weekday, felt there was a need for more affordable but still fashionable jeans. Therefore he started to design his own: Cheap Monday. In 2008 Cheap Monday joined forces with the Fabric Scandinavian AB, owned by Hennes & Mauritz, which created new international expanding possibilities for the brand.
INDIVIDUALITY
Despite the fast growth of the company, the original mentality that fashion can be just as cool and cutting edge without the huge price tag is still firmly in place. Cheap Monday wants to deliver reasonably priced fashion that can compete with high-end brands both in attitude and fashion level as well as in quality. They create customer value by operating from 4 brand values: fashionable, cheap, rebellious and sincere. Cheap Monday is very influenced by the latest trends in fashion and music. Especially the indie rock and electro music scene are major sources of inspiration, which results in a clear punk rock style. The brand is known for following its own path regardless of what other brands are doing. Being standard and mediocre is not their aim and therefore Cheap Monday tries to find their way off the beaten track. Despite its rebellious character Cheap Monday cares about people and the environment. The brand not only brings reasonable priced clothing on the market for those who do not have a lot to spend. They also take responsibility in the care of people and the environment by joining the Fair Wear Foundation and keeping a strict eye on its production process.
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TARGET GROUP
Cheap Monday’s target group is very trend sensitive and does not want to be mainstream. They are often young, urban and middle class adults or students who live in the bigger cities worldwide. They often have a creative hobby, education or profession and share interest in non-mainstream fashion and culture such as alternative music, film, art and photography. To keep track of the trends in fashion and music they read magazines like: Code, Vice, Dazed & Confused and ID magazine. Because of the desire to be authentic and unique Cheap Monday stays true to its own origin and out of the ordinary.
CORPORATE IDENTITY
Cheap Monday’s visual identity is about communicating a street and urban look with a punk rock feeling. The brand uses deep black, dark blue and white colors which refer to the different tones of unwashed and washed denim. Their visuals and pictures have an urban feel with a raw edge to and include non-stereotypical models that suit the brand’s identity. The Cheap Monday stores are characterized by geometrical and abstract shapes combined with raw materials and metal details. Creating a dark and industrial feel that match their rebellious personality. What sets them apart from other brands is their choice for expressive, weird and sometimes confronting illustrations like their logo: a skull which originally included an inverted crucifix. This rebellious sign caused many problems at retailers stating that the company is sending out an antiestablishment vibe. It suits Cheap Monday’s rebellious tone of voice and can be seen in their payoff: “Över Min Döda Kropp” which means “over my dead body”. This describes their in your face, “I say whatever I want to say and I will do whatever I want to do” attitude. Cheap Monday wants to make people aware of the fact that they can make their own decisions and think and act for themselves rather than be restricted by society.
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POLICY
Cheap Monday mainly distinguishes itself from other jeans brands by focusing on the lower price segment. The brand is known for its unisex, unwashed, very tight fitted stretch jeans that are often priced at no more than €60. These trademark skinny jeans have plain back pockets and are free from typical stitching details that other denim brands use to identify themselves. Because of their young global target group Cheap Monday has got a big online audience and can also be found in more than 40 countries and in over 2000 stores worldwide. They got mono brand stores in London, Copenhagen, Paris, Beijing and Shenyang but mainly distribute its collection through multi-brand stores, such as Urban Outfitters, Weekday and Men at Work. To keep in touch with their audience Cheap Monday uses social media and organizes several marketing events, such as launch parties and popup stores. Because of the brands alternative identity it does not use traditional marketing like advertising in magazines. They rather use word of mouth communication to stay underground.
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KSUBI With their individualistic and stubborn approach, Ksubi is a jeans brand that focuses on authenticity and originality. They breathe an urban and youthful vibe, with a carefree vision. Their individualism combined with originality and stubbornness makes Ksubi a perfect Aquarius.
THE STORY BEHIND
Ksubi, originally Tsubi, was founded in 2000 by Dan Single, George Gorrow, Paul Wilson, Oscar Wright and Gareth Moody. They were a group of friends, from Manly Australia, that were disappointed with the clothing for men and could not find good fitted denim. They began experimenting with art to see what they could get away with, using Single’s living room for sewing and Gorrow’s stairway for screen-printing. Their first activity into denim was tearing up jeans on a balcony with an angle grinder. Inspired by bands like Guitar Wolf and artists such as Jean-Michel Basquiat a unique aesthetic came to life. The self-made denim fused art with fashion. In 2006 the shoe brand Stub threatened to sue Tsubi for the use of the first four letters of its name. To avoid misunderstanding Tsubi changed its name to Ksubi.
INDIVIDUALITY
According to Ksubi’s mission statement they do not believe in following existing trends. Ksubi is a stubborn and individualistic denim brand about capturing everything that excites them. They do not perceive themselves as just a fashion brand, but as a subculture. This philosophy is something they strongly hold on to through combining ideas, individuality and authenticity. These core values have developed Ksubi into a tangible subculture; one that includes all that is fashion, art and music. The designers bring their own personal style and inspiration to the brand, which is a large contributing factor to their international success and distinguishes them from other denim brands. Combining conceptual ideas with fashion trends, Ksubi prides themselves on their originality. In their identity, as well as in their aesthetics, they aim to be a blend of skater, surfer and punk rocker. Ksubi sees itself as an urban and carefree denim brand with a cutting edge personality.
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TARGET GROUP
The target group of Ksubi consists out of males and females aged 20 till 30. They can be described as indie alternatives and are found in the underground party crowd. Describing them as young and hedonistic people who are searching for personal harmony and new experiences. They mostly live in the bigger cities and have a creative profession or hobby with shared interests in culture, art, fashion and music. The brand aesthetic leans towards grunge meets indie rock, with worn out denim and original eyewear. Ksubi wants to be authentic and individual and does this by staying away from the ordinary.
POLICY
CORPORATE IDENTITY
Ksubi has a quirky and distinctive visual identity. Black, grey and denim blue are their most used colors. Combined with one or two bright colors it gives the brand an industrial and yet playful vibe. In their photography they use a lot of visual references to the urban youth by using industrial settings, younger models and ripped denim. In their typography they use faded and bold fonts, to emphasize the subculture they are in. Their logo is the word Ksubi written in graffiti with a stripe through the word. The graffiti is also referenced to the urban and artistic culture, while the stripe symbolizes rebelliousness and stubbornness. Ksubi’s tone of voice is bold, creative and sometimes a little sarcastic. They call their jeans models not by cut, but by their own made up names as: Bullet, Blue Moon and A-Okay. The name ‘Ksubi’ is absolutely meaningless, which confirms their obstinacy and sarcasm. In their retail environments they use a recognizable style. The garments are simply stacked or hanged in racks, while the decoration of the store is everything but simple. Concrete walls, graffiti texts, animal horns and mannequins decorated with ropes and tape.
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Since there are so many denim brands, Ksubi has chosen to stand out through their philosophy and their design process. The jeans vary between skinny, slim or straight leg for both men and women. They are priced around €180 to €220. Most of the jeans have light to no washes, and include a lot of ripped denim. Every jean is finished with a window pattern on the right back pocket and have a stitched or painted logo on the left side. Ksubi has 4 official stores in its hometown Australia, and their garments, jeans, and eyewear are sold in high-end boutiques worldwide and online. Most of their marketing happens through social media, smaller independent magazines and artistic pursuits. They toured through the U.S. with an unusual 8-foot sculpture. This eventually ended up in the art festival Burning Man. It has become an icon for the Burning Man Festival serving as a statement for world politics and world peace. Ksubi also collaborated with remarkable artists such as Jeremy Scott and Richard Nicoll.
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WATER
Water, the most sensitive and emotional element we know in astronomy. This element flows and takes the form of others. Water signs have a strong imagination but therefor they find it hard to be objective. They sense the needs and emotions of others but cannot manage their own. The water signs can be very vulnerable; they build an armor between the inner and the outer world, that is why they can be seen as mysterious and floaty. They live in an ongoing contradiction between feelings and wit. Water signs are passionate, soft and limber. Cancer, Scorpio and Pisces are the fitting zodiacs for the element water. Cancer is the most emotional, sensitive and protective zodiac. Scorpio is the passionate, resolute and strong willed zodiac and Pisces stands for mystique, softness and compliance. These zodiacs make choices with their feelings, not with logical reasoning. The following brands are in line with the element water, this includes Nudie Jeans, G-Star, MUD Jeans and Levi’s.
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MUD JEANS Mud Jeans wants to make a change and dares to make a risk for that. They are loving and protective, especially when it comes to nature. With its passion for sustainability and their protective nature Mud Jeans behaves like a real Cancer. ‘For the love of the earth’
WHERE IT ALL BEGINS
MUD Jeans is an organic Dutch jeans brand that was established in 2007. With their sustainable jeans they want to raise the customers awareness around the impact of fashion on the environment. In 2012 MUD Jeans was taken over by a new owner that had been working in the fashion industry for over 30 years. The poor working conditions and large amount of waste he had seen trough out his career made him wanting to change for the better. Together with a small team of three people he turned MUD Jeans into a sustainable clothing brand that works completely according to the principles of the circular economy.
PERSONALITY
MUD Jeans believes that fashion can be fashionable and sustainable at the same time. The brands slogan ‘for the love of earth’ already suggests it. The environment is extremely important to them and they believe in a world without waste. It is their goal to raise awareness around the impact the fashion industry has on the environment and to offer sustainable, and innovative solutions. They aspire to be a brand that sets an example for others by closing its production cycle completely. According to MUD Jeans it is more important to change the world, rather than making profit. In order to make a difference, the brand values to be environment friendly, caring, honest and transparent. They engage the customer in the production process to give a clear view on what they do and what they achieve. Namely: producing fair sustainable jeans, in order to save the environment. Besides that, MUD Jeans does not only want to be seen as an environmentalist and that is why they try to emphasize the young and fashionable side as well.
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CREATIONS
The sustainable and fashionable sides of the brand are both clearly visible in their recently renewed visual identity. Their value to produce sustainably still gets expressed, but in a restrained way. Their corporate identity is simple, clean and straightforward, which communicates their honest and open approach on the fashion industry. The circled logo communicates MUD Jeans’ circular production process. This information also stands in the logo in words. Furthermore, the logo is clean and simple, which shows their attempt to be modern, and fashionable, and to speak to a larger, young target group. As well as the tone of voice being used: straightforward, frank, informative and clear, without being too serious or compelling. In their campaign photography they show tough girls and men with beards who are not posing, but running around, playing in nature. The photos are usually taken outside, in the woods. With colors like green, sand and dusty brown, the color palette is a nature inspired one. From this it all becomes clear that MUD Jeans now portrays itself as a young, outdoors and laidback brand that is not only sustainable, but cool and fashionable as well.
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FOLLOWERS
MUD Jeans targets on a group aged 20 till 35 who are very well educated, conscious and care for the environment. They are also active, love to travel and are fascinated by ecological design. Nevertheless, this does not mean that they also live in nature. In contrary, they live in cities. This is the place for young people to share new ideas about sustainability and develop an interest for innovations. Besides that it is a surrounding where style, fashion and trends are important and so it is to the target group. MUD Jeans anticipates on this group by making its jeans ecological, fashionable and affordable.
EXPRESSION
MUD Jeans implements the sustainable aspect in its whole organization. Their jeans are produced under good working conditions in Italy. The buttons, labels and packaging are made out of organic cotton and recycled material. MUD Jeans is experimenting with different programs that encourage customers to recycle their jean. Twice a year, a new collection gets launched including simple, basic and casual design, with a few different washes and fits. Besides the recycling of the jeans they up cycle them as well. They have a collection of jeans that have been returned by customers after they have worn and damaged it. They sell these jeans as vintage, with a special story. A pair of jeans costs around â‚Ź100. MUD Jeans communicates through social media like Twitter, Instagram and Facebook. They also have a blog on their website. The media also loves to write about brands captivating ideas, which helps them to gain attention. MUD Jeans does not have its own physical store. They sell online and in selected organic fashion stores in the Netherlands, Norway, Germany, Austria, Italy and Switzerland.
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NUDIE Nudie is a brand which is known for its sustainable denim and loyalty towards the consumer. They want to stay close to their vision and protect their brand identity. Because it values the environment and wants to be transparent to the consumer, it can be related to the caring Cancer.
WHERE IT ALL BEGINS
Nudie Jeans is founded in the year 1999 in Gothenburg, Sweden. Nudie is not only a denim brand, but they are mostly known for their raw and pre-washed denim jeans. Erixsson’s brand concept is based on raw denim and the drive to make fashion more transparent and conscious. Nudie came up with a new concept for their raw denim: Dry Denim. These “dry denim” jeans are the most representative product for the brand. In 2006 Nudie Jeans made their whole brand organic and for now their mission is to also make their brand completely transparent.
PERSONALITY
Nudie Jeans portrays itself as an innovating and conscious brand. The brand translates their philosophy by being personal, raw and natural. Being nature friendly is also one of their core values, but when it comes to their employees they are also a progressive brand. For example, they pay their employees from India a living wage. This is something that distinguishes Nudie Jeans from other denim brands. Their vision is that everyone is unique and that they should feel that way when they wear Nudie jeans. Therefore their dry denim collection symbolizes their brand vision and strengthened their slogan ‘The naked truth about denim’. Nudie Jeans makes their mission clear to everyone; a transparent way of selling a product with a 100% organic production line. Nudie Jeans can call of one mission, since they have been given the title “most sustainable denim brand” by the website “rankabrand.org.” Nudie Jeans also develops their own organic fabrics with its suppliers.
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FOLLOWERS
The current target market of Nudie Jeans consists out of people between the age of 18 and 45. Who have an average or above average income and who live future forward. People who value a conscious and fashionable living. When Nudie Jeans started, their focus laid on the fashionable men who lived in the bigger cities. Over the years there target market changed and Nudie started to be an unisex denim brand. Nudie Jeans anticipates on their target group with their 100% organic products and their reliable services, like free repair for your Nudie jeans. Their mission to be a totally transparent brand is also something that the target group can rely on.
CREATIONS
Nudie Jeans tries to translate their philosophy about honesty and transparency in a minimalistic look. Their logo, for example is an orange natural colored N. drawn in a flowing movement, but also minimalistic in a certain way. This minimalistic part of the brand is best presented in their shops. Nudie sells a lot of their products in warehouses and multi-brand shops and they have a few stores of their own. These fashion environments have a Scandinavian look with industrial furniture and some vintage influences. The brand tries to create a calm environment. Nudie Jeans tries to maintain a good bond with their consumers by offering them free repair for their Nudie Jeans in their special repair stores but also by being consistent in their overall look and feel, sizes and cuts. This creates reliance. When we take a look at the corporate identity of Nudie Jeans, we see a lot of similarities with their core values and their vision. The combination of the natural colors and calm atmosphere, with still a little rawness processed into the photography. Gives you a tranquil feeling. The photography is often conducted in nature or a quiet and plain area. It symbolizes the Scandinavian men-tality and nature. The typography of Nudie jeans is simple and not really outspoken, as well for their use of colors. This simple and subdued corporate identity closely follows the core values and production line of Nudie.
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EXPRESSION
For Nudie, their best speaking product is the dry denim jean. Because Nudie is a unisex brand, their products are only differentiated in size, fit and washing. All the products are made out of 100% organic and fair-trade materials. A regular pair of Nudie jeans costs around â‚Ź139. Nudie Jeans promotes their products on their blog. Therefor they selected people from all over the world show their life with Nudie Jeans in a personal way through photography and handwritten postcards. Nudie also shows their core values through their collaborations with Amnesty International and the sustainable furniture brand Swedese. The way Nudie treats all their employees all over the world distinguishes them from other denim brands. The personal touch they are giving to the jeans and to your feeling as a customer is one of the key factors for most customers to buy a pair of Nudie jeans. Nudie Jeans portrays itself as an honest and caring brand.
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G-STAR RAW Raw denim and industrial looks characterize G-star, but it is also known for their care for the environment and passion for sustainability. Their responsible attitude combined with their confident, strong and masculine expression makes it a daring Scorpio running through the wild water.
WHERE IT ALL BEGINS
G-star is a dutch brand founded in 1989 and inspired by vintage military wear. In 1996, they were the first brand to release a ‘raw denim’ type of jeans. A jean that was completely untreated and which came straight from the factory. G-star originally came forward as a mens denim brand, and while time past, they also added womenswear and footwear to their inventory. For all that G-stars focus has always lain on creating jeans and denim products.
PERSONALITY
G-star is a brand which is all about the product. Their vision ‘Just the product’ is also based on the urge of making a good quality garment. During the process towards this product they always keep a few values in mind: sustainability, transparency and innovation. They make sure that they end up with a responsible and well designed products that lives up to the by G-star required comfort and quality level. The garments they sell are known for their cool, raw and almost industrial look. Their way of designing jeans differences them from other denim brands: instead of the regular 2D-design method G-star specialized itself in 3D-designing. Their jeans are molded around the body, that way they are providing a great fit and comfort. As result or their new way of designing they have created a new type of silhouette in the denim branch. The brand attaches a lot of value to sustainability in their products and in their producing process. They use different campaigns to show their customers they are actively working on a clean environment. Raw for the ocean was a collaboration with Pharrell Williams. Plastic from the ocean is recycled into yarns who served as a base for the collections garments. The Raw for the ocean collection has grown to one of the best selling G-star collections. During the proces they gathered around 2 million kilos of plastic from the oceans.
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CREATIONS
G-star is known by their raw and industrial appearance. Translating this into their advertising by using an identifying type of photography during their campaigns and advertising, they are usually black and white, with focus on the structure and the rawness of the jeans. Sometimes they use colors like: dark blue (denim), white and black. They usually choose a bright, fresh and popping color to let their brand name and quote stand out against the background. For their logo the use a modern and industrial looking font. G-star adds the word ‘raw’ to extend their brand tot try to portray themselves as a brand that is only about the product and the raw denim. The brand is known for their Dutch crudeness and down to earth mentality. They are often seen as arrogant because of the in your face way of promoting themselves. They are not about small and intimate advertising. That way they present themselves as a bold and confident brand which is not planning on adjusting to something or someone. An industrial yet chic look is distinctive for a G-star building. They managed to reflect that certain look to their headquarter (designed by Rem Koolhaas) and to their fashion environments.
FOLLOWERS
Although it sounds rather unusual. G-star is known for the fact that they do not focus on a specific target group. The brand tries to reach everyone with their products. Although G-star knows not everyone is able to afford their products they try to create items which are interesting to various customers. Because of this they are free to develop their concept the way they want to. In that way they have the ability to stay true to their signature look.
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EXPRESSION
The price range lays in a higher segment, it is generally €99 to €200 for a pair of jeans. You can recognize a G-star product by some of the standard trims they always use: the brands name is always embroidered near the right back pocket. It is also mentioned at the front button and one of the front pockets. The products are known for the comfortable fit, the stretchy fabric and the rawness of real and original denim. There is a various of models, fits, washings and material treatments. G-star uses a lot of advertising ways. They are an active brand on social media. They use it to inform their customers about all the activities, collaborations and giveaways. The headquarter is based in Amsterdam and the brand owns 5.500 selling points in 70 countries. Diesel is G-stars biggest competitor in the denim branch. They own a comparable image containing dark colors, dark denim and lots of coatings. But despite of many visual likenesses, G-star and Diesel are two entirely different brands.
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LEVI’S Not only claiming to be the creater and innovater of denim but actually making a change. Levi’s is change driven, passionate and innovative. They come op with different actions to help shaping a better world. They make the water of denim float world-wide. With the caring and authentic heart of a Scorpio.
WHERE IT ALL BEGINS
Ever since Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis created and patented the world’s first Blue Jean in 1873, Levi’s has been one of the leading denim brands worldwide. The first pair of jeans – the classic ‘501’– is developed in the U.S. and was supposed to function as a new type of working clothes. In the beginning of 1900 Levi’s jeans where mostly worn by the working class. This changed briefly after the Second World War. Different youth cultures started wearing the jeans and making jeans a symbol of youth, which they still are. Today, the range of Levi’s popularity is a direct result of that first pair of blue jeans.
PERSONALITY
Levi’s strives to boost the youth to go forth while making a change and shaping the world. The brand portrays itself as a change-driven, daring and provocative brand. Their core values - empathy, originality, integrity and courage are closely related to the young, rebellious and authentic identity they have shaped for themselves. These values seem to be well presented in their strategy. Levi’s is fueled by their values combined with their main focus on innovation and progress. Their passion for innovation and progress arises from their vision: ‘we believe that with the right principles anyone can change the world.’ That is why they participate with initiatives such as the Better Cotton Initiative and Water<Less<Jeans. For example. the brand contributes an active role discussing international trade, labor, sustainability and nondiscrimination. These actions show their mission ‘by giving value we strive to give people inspiration to keep on trying and pursuing their goals. Levi’s identity is not about making products and selling them, it’s a way of life’.
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FOLLOWERS
With Levi’s core values in mind, they target young individuals worldwide who are playful but serious about the future. Their focus lays on young students and professionals from the age of 15 to 30. They aim authenticity, have a middle income and peer acceptance. On the other hand – Levi’s also finds a spot in the segmentation 30-50 professionals who have been wearing Levi’s since their youth. This group has a sense of loyalty with the need to express themselves. Levi’s relationship with their key target audience relays on communication - empowering them to live by the day and take opportunities.
EXPRESSION
Levi’s positions itself as a strong, world dominating brand. In the minds of the costumer it lives as an old brand with new ideas. By using their mix of marketing in different models for different sub-segments, Levi’s can reach a big target group. They offer different cuts and washes with several marketing campaigns throughout the years to give their target group the feel-ing of actually being part of the brand. With prices varying from €50 to €200 Levi’s forms an acceptable price range for a pair of good jeans. Their products are sold through a combination of chain retailers, department stores, online stores and in more than 2800 shops in 110 countries majorly situated in the United States and Europe. Levi’s has invested in continuously advertising to stick with their original and quality driven brand image. Social media is part of their communication strategy. They mostly use Facebook and Instagram. With these tools, Levi’s tries to separates itself from the rest of the denim brands by being authentic, strong willed, young and rebellious.
CREATIONS
Levi’s visual identity rests in playful advertisements and cheery quotes, daring their target to express their individuality. They seem to manage a harmonious balance between clean typography and playful photography. In their pictures the main focus always rests on a pair of jeans. As for coloring, the main focus lays on denim. Levi’s has a natural coloring pallet with a touch of red, abstracted from their recognizable logo. Levi’s leather logo, which is stitched in all their jeans, symbolizes the craftsmanship that Levi’s stands for. The two horses pressed in leather, each pulling in the opposite direction on the same pair of jeans. It is the symbol of heritage and innovation which the brand stands for. Levi’s red tab logo is a display of the brand’s iconic reputation. It shows energy and passion, combined with power. The overall branding strategy of Levi’s highlights the mindset of youth and rebellion. This again shows in their visual merchandising. Their fashion environments link to their heritage mixed with current trends. Natural materials are used, including wood, leather and vintage furniture. The overall spaces feel and look industrial which commits to their sustainably values and craftsmanship.
104.
105.
CONCLUSION
SENIOR CITIZENS
EARLY ENJOYERS
True Religion PME Legend
PME Legend
Not Your Daughters Jeans
PME Legend
True Religion
Diesel
Diesel
Abercrombie & Fitch
Vingino
Not Your Daughters Jeans
Today a lot of different jeans brands want to dominate the crowded denim market by distinguishing themselves in different ways. INDIOLOGY looked at the most leading characteristics of each brand, which make the brand memorable, and placed it into one of the four connecting elements of this brandbook: Fire, Earth, Air or Water.
Wrangler Wrangler Jack& Jones
Denham
Wrangler
Acne
Denham
GAP
Wrangler Jack& Jones
If brands want to attract different target groups than they are aiming at now, they need to focus on the characteristics of the elements in which their possible new target group is. Seniors fit best in the elements Air and Earth, because of their neutral character and seek for comfort while most teenagers and young adults more tend to like Fire because they are more aware of self-expression and identity. For INDIOLOGY, this is the gap in the market. Attracting a new target group by adjusting more to that target group its element while still keeping true to your own brand values. By adding values of different elements than the one the brand is currently in, other target groups can become interested in the brand as well. Fire brands that want to attract a more mature target group should find inspiration in the elements Earth and Air and vice-versa. Water brands that want to specify their target groups can look at the element of Fire and so on. This creates a constant interaction between all elements and bigger chances for all denim brands.
Jack& Jones
Not Your Daughters Jeans
Denham
GAP
Brax
Cheap Monday
Paige Ksubi
Brax Paige
Levi’s G-star RAW
The matrix shows that there are unconnected lines in the galaxy, waiting for jeans brands to be targeted. This is our final step, by creating a new fashion environment. When this is done, the denim galaxy is completed.
G-star RAW
Nudie G-star RAW
Levi’s
106.
YOUNG FAMILIES YOUNG INDEPENDENTS Evisu
This is the end of INDIOLOGY. Which is more of a new beginning than the actual end. This brandbook gives a unique, real and honest view on the denim market. All the jeans brands together form their own galaxy represented in the matrix on the right page.
But what do all the analyses tell us about today’s jeans market? Most of the analyzed jeans brands seem to focus on the younger segments. Their clear characteristics and identity suggest they are a safe target group. But the standards of fashion are changing and brands could anticipate more on segments that seem somewhat insecure to start with; for instance the increasing popularity of the mature target group. Also jeans brands seem to focus and stick to one specific target group in general. This is not necessarily smart, because a bigger range could lead to a positive effect in retail and make the denim market more diverse.
AVERAGE FAMILIES
Nudie G-star RAW
Levi’s Levi’s MUD Jeans
MUD Jeans
107.
BIBLIOGRAPHY CONCEPTUAL PHOTOGRAPHY
Photography: Puck Verheul Styling: Micheline Karekezi, Tessa Ruger, Anna van der Velde MUA: Geesje Remijnse
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G-STAR
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MUD
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TRUE RELIGION
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