It’s taken a while, but Osaka has now truly emerged from Tokyo’s shadow to shine in a light of its own. More than 11 million people visited Japan’s third-biggest city last year. That’s five times as many as had done so in 2012, and makes it the country’s fastest-growing tourist destination. It’s not hard to see why. Tokyo may be more important and Kyoto more cultured, but Osaka scores highly for its cosmopolitan feel, its cheerful allure and its phenomenal foodie appeal.