H Magazine Winter 2020/2021

WINTER 2020 / 2021

St. Moritz – Life has never been higher!

the e Engadin

WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF SWISS DELUXE HOTELS

LORE – EXP ’S GAZINE A M » THE «H E ID U G TRAVEL

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Regional ingredients for culinary enjoyment

The call of the mountains

Alfred Hitchcock – a love story

It all started with a bet

White Turf St. Moritz like a fairy tale

2020

OFFICIAL NOMINATION

Tondagraph GT Steel Black Manufactured entirely in Switzerland parmigiani.com

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ASCONA Gioielli-Orologi Herschmann BASEL Gübelin BERN Goldschmied Stähli CRANS-MONTANA L’Atelier Du Temps GENÈVE Air Watch Center, Benoit De Gorski, Gübelin INTERLAKEN Kirchhofer KLOSTERS Maissen LAUSANNE Guillard LUGANO Gübelin LUZERN Gübelin, Les Ambassadeurs MONTREUX Zbinden ST. GALLEN Labhart-Chronometrie VILLARS-SUR-OLLON Brändli Creation ZERMATT Haute Horlogerie Schindler ZUG Lohri ZÜRICH Gübelin, Les Ambassadeurs

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Enjoy responsibly

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´DEAR OLD FRIEND, NOW I’M BACK IN THE UPPER ENGADINE, FOR THE THIRD TIME, AND AGAIN I FEEL THAT HERE AND NOWHERE ELSE IS MY RIGHT HOME AND HOTBED.´

© Engadin St. Moritz Tourismus AG bzw. Nico Schaerer

FRIEDRICH NIETZSCHE TO CARL VON GERSDORFF, SILS-MARIA, END OF JUNE 1883

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surprise with luxury YOU CAN’T GO WRONG WITH THE MOST EXQUISITE VOUCHER OUT THERE.

get your r he gift vouce onlin

SWISSDELUXEHOTELS.COM

Established in 1934, the Swiss Deluxe Hotels group combines 39 of Switzerland’s most iconic five-star hotels: ANDERMATT: The Chedi Andermatt BAD RAGAZ: Grand Hotel Quellenhof & Spa Suites

AROSA: Tschuggen Grand Hotel

CRANS-MONTANA: Guarda Golf Hotel & Residences, LeCrans Hotel & Spa Mandarin Oriental Geneva

Palace

LUGANO: Hotel Splendide Royal

NEUCHÂTEL: Beau-Rivage Hotel

Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, Suvretta House

BERN: Bellevue Palace, Hotel Schweizerhof Bern & Spa

GENÈVE: Beau-Rivage, Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues,

GSTAAD: Gstaad Palace, Le Grand Bellevue, Park Gstaad, The Alpina Gstaad

INTERLAKEN: Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa Le Mirador Resort & Spa

ASCONA: Castello del Sole, Hotel Eden Roc

BASEL: Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois

LAUSANNE: Beau-Rivage Palace, Lausanne Palace LUZERN: Mandarin Oriental Palace Luzern

PONTRESINA: Grand Hotel Kronenhof VEVEY: Grand Hôtel du Lac

Mont Cervin Palace, Riffelalp Resort 2222 m

LE MONT-PÈLERIN:

MONTREUX: Fairmont Le Montreux

ST. MORITZ: Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, Carlton Hotel St. Moritz,

VITZNAU: Park Hotel Vitznau

ZERMATT: Grand Hotel Zermatterhof,

ZÜRICH: Baur au Lac, La Réserve Eden au Lac, The Dolder Grand, Widder Hotel

HOLDERS OF A VISA BONUS CARD CAN EXCHANGE THEIR POINTS IN A SWISS DELUXE HOTELS VOUCHER ON BONUSCARD.CH 8

Into the white

© Julier Pass, Switzerland Tourism

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Walter Amstutz was director of tourism in St. Moritz from 1929 – 1938 – here we see him as a spirited ski jumper. One of the many wonderful photographs we received for this issue.

he name St. Moritz conjures up images and sets one’s imagination in motion – with Roger Moore schussing down the ski slopes some 40 years ago as the well-loved James Bond and Alfred Hitchcock, whose attention was drawn to black birds at the Badrutt’s Palace (read our story on page 96).

St. Moritz is a place of excitement, beauty and vitality – where attention to detail is key. Philippe Clarinval puts it in a nutshell on page 25 when he says, «With us our guests restore the value of their time». It was 1864 when hotelier Johannes Badrutt entered into a wager with guests from Great Britain with a promise that in St. Moritz the climate is pleasant not only in summer but also in winter, where on sunny days you can sit on the terrace in your shirtsleeves. The following December, the group traversed the Julier Pass wearing fur from head to toe. When they arrived in St. Moritz, the skies were friendly, the sun shone warmly and Badrutt welcomed his guests wearing a shirt with its sleeves rolled up. Winter tourism was born!

Our «Exclusive» contributions (start on page 14) want to put you in a mood to celebrate: with truffles, select champagnes, handmade knives, and the world’s best pasta, for which you don’t have to travel to Italy because it is right here in St. Moritz! We would like to wish you all the wonders of the winter months. Take your time and be creative with your activities – one can only guess at what is possible.

Enjoy our first winter «H»!

Evelyn Gorgos

P.S. Follow us on Instagram (@swissdeluxehotels) or read the online version of the magazine on

P.S. When it comes to making the right choice, why don’t you give away the luxury of «time» as a surprise? With our new voucher which you can choose and put together on our website yourself.

swissdeluxehotels.com/en/magazine

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Our portraits Philippe Clarinval 24 Carlton Hotel, St. Moritz «It is important to me that with us our guests restore the value of their time.»

Roland Höge Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa, Interlaken «Both cooking and mixology are professions connected with creating a taste experience.»

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Christoph Kokemoor 32 Les Trois Rois, Basel «I try to describe wines not only metaphorically, but rather with all senses.»

Sven Wassmer Grand Hotel Quellenhof & Spa Suites, Bad Ragaz «A preference for regional ingredients, but never at the expense of culinary enjoyment.»

Max Herzog Carlton Hotel, St. Moritz and Marcel Skibba, Badrutt’s Palace, St. Moritz The St. Moritz star chefs about afternoon tea, the Cresta Run and surprising insights about their favourite music.

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© Lake Sils, Switzerland Tourism

Richard Leuenberger 102 Badrutt’s Palace, St. Moritz «Our guests visit us to enjoy themselves, and they hope to spend a joyful time at the hotel. It doesn’t do any harm when you yourself radiate a sense of fun» Valeria Walther 124 White Turf St. Moritz «I admit, skijoring is a little crazy. However, the amount of adrenaline that flows through your body is so enormous that it blanks out everything else.»

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CONTENT

24 © Pierluigi Macor/DS Photographers

Ferrari in the bottle True excellence is not possible without 36 consistency

Our gourmet trends for this winter

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«Host with the most!»

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A weekend in St. Moritz An iconic destination calls for stylish pieces and cool accessories selected by 46 Clifford Lilley

Pasta, baby!

Among gourmets, Famiglia Cerea is world famous, and so are the «paccheri» you can find at their restaurant «Da Vittorio St. Moritz» at the 14 Carlton Hotel

Engadine travel guide How to enjoy the sweet life at the 56 «top of the world»

Fishing sea!

Gourmets consider it the ultimate delicacy, the subject of a myth and the most expensive food 16 item in the world – let’ s talk about caviar

Suite Talk at the Eden au Lac Zurich

Clinking champagne!

Suites are the ultimate differentiator of any ­sleepery­ worth its five-star standing, and this beauty on the 74 shores of Lake Zurich certainly makes a splash

Champagne is the best choice to accompany a medium-rare roast of venison, a chocolate-based 18 dessert or simply a perfect moment

The call of the mountains – luxury from head to toe

Sharp!

A spa review from the Kulm Hotel St. Moritz

What do you know about a good knife? «It’s got to look good, should be made out of local materials 20 and by hand»

Hunting truffles!

Stefan Heilemann is the star-chef at the Widder Restaurant in Zurich who enjoys working with luxury products. His rule is simple: only the best is good 22 enough. And it should be seasonal 11

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158 La vie est belle à Lausanne Claudio’s Top Ten and a bed of roses at 85 the Lausanne Palace

Happening pieces and gift inspirations 90

Alfred Hitchcock at the Badrutt’s Palace St. Moritz A love story

© Nikita Sibilev

«Feel the winter *****»

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Oskar on luxury tour A story about a Labrador and a very special hotel 104 in St. Moritz with friendly canine benefits

Our Seasonal Pic The Grand Hotel Kronenhof Pontresina, 5 things to do 148 around the hotel & our runner’s tips

An excursion to the valley of charm Discover the hidden gems of the 108 lower Engadine

Three days – three extraordinary chefs

It all started with a bet…

The «Tour de Swiss Deluxe Hotels» reveals why the best Swiss hotels are considered the creative nucleus of 150 Switzerland’s gastronomy

…when hotelier Johannes Badrutt talked about winter 114 in St. Moritz to some of his British guests

Children’s world

Swiss Top Events – magic moments at unique places

Dinner with a view, a bathroom with a Jacuzzi tub and suites that are easy to get lost in – magical moments 154 at the Beau-Rivage Genève

White Turf – St. Moritz like a fairy tale Art Basel – «The most beautiful temporary 118 museum in the world»

Enjoy Switzerland!

A unique experience with a horse-drawn carriage 158 driver from the wild valley

Emerging art scene St. Moritz Discover the new STUDI0

Standards Editorial 9 162 Contributors Locations Swiss Deluxe Hotels The 39 Swiss Deluxe Hotels 172 Publishing Credits 174 Preview

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Champagne is the king Did you know that excellent sparkles are also produced 140 outside the famous French regions?

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THOUGHTS

discovering

switzerland

It was supposed to be a summer reserved for domestic guests, good friends and visitors from neighbouring countries of Switzerland.

Without a doubt, the 39 Swiss Deluxe Hotels at 22 locations throughout Switzerland provide the best prospects for relaxed indulgence.

© Skiing Engadine, Switzerland Tourism

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id the people in Switzerland answer this call, and did they stay at the Swiss Deluxe Hotels? The statistics clearly say yes. The number of overnight stays booked by domestic guests during June and July grew by 32 per cent compared to the previous year. While total bookings decreased by 35 per cent, the market share of Swiss guests suddenly increased to 72 per cent from the normal 40 per cent. Unfortunately, the vacation boom produced by domestic guests was unable to compensate fully for the decline in international guests who this year are so sorely missed. It must be recognised that our European neighbours – above all Germany – have remained loyal to the vacation destination of Switzerland, or perhaps they took advantage of its proximity as an alternative to more distant destinations. Moreover, we observed an encouraging crossing of linguistic frontiers: guests from the French-speaking part of the country discovered the Appenzell region, while many from the German-speaking regions paid a visit to the Lavaux on the banks of Lake Geneva.

Unfortunately, not every region or destination reaped the benefit of the extraordinary touristic summer. Hotels in the large cities have remained almost empty, especially those in Zurich and Geneva. Usually, apart from business people and seminar partici-

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Michael Smithuis Chairman Swiss Deluxe Hotels

pants, visitors from overseas and the Far East stimulate business here. A permanent recovery of urban tourism is not foreseeable, and it is not expected that the large trade fairs, events and business gatherings will return in the accustomed manner in the near future.

Swiss Deluxe Hotels are now placing special emphasis on the winter season. Our assumption is that the ski resorts will resume operations, albeit with some minor limitations.

We feel optimistic for the future and will enjoy a good restart, reassuring all our guests with our fundamental values, such as safety, cleanliness, reliability, fresh air, lots of space and orientation toward the individual guest.

Of course, all we will need in addition are good weather conditions. Hotels and destinations that focused on sustainability and careful use of resources prior to the pandemic will, especially in times like these, be able to benefit. The diversity of the 39 Swiss Deluxe Hotels provides scope for entirely new offerings, such as packages that combine snow sport in the mountains with a city and shopping experience in one of our exciting «Little-Big-Cities», or a medical-wellness stay in a five-star resort between Lake Geneva and Eastern Switzerland combined with a visit to a lake in Ticino, Switzerland’s Italian-speaking region.

We wish you a great, eventful and relaxing winter and look forward to welcoming you to one of our hotels. Take good care of yourself and stay healthy.

pasta, baby! paccheri Among gourmets, Famiglia Cerea is world famous. Their main restaurant in Brusaporto is only an hour from the Swiss ­border and from their outpost at the Carlton Hotel St. Moritz, which was awarded a second Michelin star last year. Worldclass k ­ itchen, trattoria atmosphere, heated debates and casual fl ­ irtations – its relaxed and family-friendly atmosphere goes down well. If you hope to enjoy a meal at «Da Vittorio», be sure to make reservations well in advance.

´ Each shape has the right accompaniment.

Moreover, when the shape changes, you get the impression that you are eating something different. Each shape has its own character.

Without a doubt, dried pasta can be stored longer. Fresh pasta is stored in the refrigerator and has a much shorter shelf life, sometimes only a single day. From a taste perspective, fresh pasta is softer and tastier.´

© Beatrice Pilotto

´ It is especially important that the pasta can withstand the cooking process.

For Italians it’s important that pasta is cooked al dente, so it keeps a certain consistency. And then, of course, its taste must be good, like milled wheat.´

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PACCHERI ALLA VITTORIO MANTECATI CON PARMIGIANO SERVES 4

200 g extra virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove 500 g San Marzano tomatoes 100 g Piccadilly tomatoes 500 g paccheri 1 bunch basil 150 g Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan) Salt and pepper ½ teaspoon sugar 100 g golden Corbarino tomatoes from the Vesuvius region a little peperoncino chilli

´ Pasta is made out of wheat semolina.

The quality and origin of the types of flour make the difference. Pasta partly made by hand is given more time in the drying process, whereas conventional pasta is dried for only a few hours.

Da Vittorio St. Moritz serves pasta by Vicidomini, Mancini, De Cecco and Verrigni.´

Sauté the garlic clove in a pan with the oil.

Once the garlic is golden brown, remove it from the pan, and add the San Marzano tomatoes. Cut the Piccadilly and the Corbarino tomatoes in half, season half the tomatoes with salt and pepper, add the seasoned tomatoes to the San Marzano tomatoes in the pan, and simmer for 35–40 minutes. When the tomatoes have softened sufficiently, pass them through a sieve, and add the remaining Piccadilly tomatoes to the sauce. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until al dente and drain.

Stir the pasta into the sauce, and add the basil leaves, plus a little peperoncino chilli and freshly grated Parmesan to taste.

Garnish the dish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and serve immediately.

´ The old advertising slogan, «Dove c’è pasta c’è famiglia» (where there’s pasta, there’s family), expresses the generally accepted feeling that pasta, more than any other dish, radiates warmth and brings people together.´

DA VITTORIO ST. MORITZ

2 Michelin stars Via Johannes Badrutt, St. Moritz +41 081 836 70 00 15

ADVERTORIAL

fishing sea caviar Gourmets consider it the ultimate delicacy, the subject of a myth and it is the most expensive food item in the world ­according to the Guinness Book of Records. The valuable pearls are c ­ elebrating a comeback. How does caviar taste best? «Freshly caught», is what Heinrich-Marc Stehli thinks.

The director of sales at Oona Caviar gathers the roe from sturgeon that swim in the ponds of the caviar farm at Tropenhaus F ­ rutigen, where they produce Switzerland’s only domestic caviar.

´ The quality level most in ­ demand is the Nº103 – traditionnel selection, boasting a wonderfully nutty, mossy flavour. The Nº102 – jeune variety is ideal for beginners, contains only a m ­ inimum of salt, and is shipped on the day of ­harvesting. Limité (Nº 101), a top variety and true rarity, makes up only two per cent of the overall production and impresses gourmets with particularly large pearls and a perfect level of m ­ aturity.

Oona added Osietra caviar, ­ caviar from Russian sturgeon, to its product range and distributes it under the Oona Caviar ­Osietra Carat label. ­Finally, there is Millésime, the only pasteurised and, therefore, more durable Oona caviar speciality. Millésime is the perfect accompaniment for beef tartar.´

´ Each year, 1.3 tonnes of the rare d ­ elicacy are harvested at the Tropenhaus Frutigen. As an exclusive partner of Swiss ­Deluxe Hotels, Oona ­caviar can be found on the menus of ­Switzerland’s finest hotel restaurants.´

´ We focus on a careful treatment of our sturgeon and strive to sell h ­ onest, ­authentic caviar that is stored for short periods only and is free of ­additives and preservatives. It is the only way to harvest top quality c ­ aviar with a delicate skin, tender texture, and a subtle glaze.´ 16

´ Caviar should be stored at a c ­ onstant temperature in the c ­ ooler of your refrigerator. As ice c ­ rystals destroy the roe skin, it should not be frozen. ­Never­­t­heless, ­dropping the temperature to two d ­ egrees ­centigrade is ­ideal. Once a jar has been opened, the contents should be consumed within two or three days. Should a large portion remain in the jar uneaten, smooth down the surface, cut out an exact ­circle of grease-proof paper, lay it on the caviar and close the lid. This will protect the caviar even better from contact with air-borne contaminants.´

´ In accordance with ­Codex Alimentarius, the «Book of Food», only ­caviar spelled with a «C» refers to salted sturgeon fish eggs. Should the package contain K ­ aviar, the roe will refer to a ­different variety of fish.´

´ The delicious, firm meat of the fish is sold to the restaurant and shop at the Tropenhaus and is often used for exquisite smoked fish specialities.

Its robust skin serves as raw material for Swiss d ­ esigner ­Sabina Brägger’s exclusive, practical, and everlasting accessories.

All o ­ rganic waste is transported to a b ­ iogas plant.´

´ Fresh Oona caviar can be stored for only about nine weeks without spoiling. O ­ ther than a touch of salt – 4% at a maximum, depending on the kind of caviar – no i­ngredients are added. And it takes no more than 15 minutes from ­harvesting, gently cleaning and salting the roe to fill the caviar into mason jars.´ OONA CAVIAR

+41 33 672 11 47 sales@oona-caviar.ch oona-caviar.ch 17

clinking champagne The home of champagne is located in France, one of the most northerly wine-growing regions in the world. Grapes suitable for the production of sparkling white wine can be grown there only due to the relatively cool climate. The province of Champagne carries this name since the early Middle Ages, and today it is subdivided into «Champagne pouilleuse», the region dedicated to the cultivation of grain, and «Champagne viticole», where sparkling wine is produced.

The three cities of Reims, Epernay and Aÿ are located in Champagne province. ´ There are several different styles of champagne. Essentially, each style is based on the three most important grape varieties, Pinot noir, Pinot meunier and Chardonnay.

The largest share of production is white base wine without declaration of vintage. It is always a blend of different white wines from a range of terroirs and vintages. Rosé champagne, which is produced by adding small amounts of red wine, is enjoying growing popularity.

In very good years, the large champagne producers and small, independent vineyards offer vintage champagne. The prestige or luxury cuvées, like Dom Pérignon or Cristal by Louis Roederer, are expensive. While Blanc de Blancs is produced exclusively from Chardonnay, Blanc de Noirs is based on Pinot noir and/or Pinot meunier.´

´ Méthode champenoise is the traditional method by which champagne is produced.

A second alcoholic fermentation occurs in the bottle, and it is the basis for developing the bubbles which characterise champagne sparkling wine. Before the bottles are filled, a mixture of wine, sugar and yeast is added to the wine, the so-called «liqueur de tirage». The bottles are then stored for a period of at least 15 months by regulation authorities (Appelation d’Origine Controlée). Following regular agitation and the disgorging of each bottle, a dose of sirup consisting of wine and sugar is added, the so-called «liqueur de dosage». This determines the champagne’s degree of sweetness.

The largest part of champagne production is marketed as brut containing residue sugar measuring up to 12 grams/litre.´ 18

´ Dom Pérignon is considered the «inventor» of champagne. This honorific title for the Benedictine monk, who lived from 1639 to 1715, is based on a fairy tale. The transition from still wine to sparkling wine probably was an evolutionary process, and not a groundbreaking discovery by an individual person.

However, Dom Pérignon deserves special merits based on his refinement of still wines produced in the Champagne region. For instance, he introduced strict pruning of wines, low yields and careful harvesting. In this sense, the monk more than deserves an honorary mention in the annals of wine history.´

´ The well-known brands, such as Ruinart or Krug, may set you back a hundred francs or more. A more reasonably priced alternative is champagne produced by small, independent producers at a quality similar to that of the big brands.´

´ The production of champagne is a complex and long process. As a result, this sparkling wine is not cheap and definitely more expensive than, for instance, prosecco.

The price of a good bottle of champagne will range between 30 and 40 Swiss francs.

Having said that, the high end has no limits.

Along with high-quality products, the French sparkling wine is a product that reflects outstanding marketing techniques and high prestige.´

´ Champagne is versatile, and it can be enjoyed with a menu consisting of several courses. Two or three successful combinations are worth a try. For instance, a non-vintage, elegant Blanc de Blancs (e. g. Ruinart Blanc de Blancs) will go well with fresh oysters, a rosé champagne is the best choice to accompany a medium-rare roast of venison; a bottle of demi-sec champagne containing residual sugar will ideally complement a chocolate-based dessert.´

´ Champagne can be purchased in wine shops and supermarkets. Supermarkets regularly offer champagne brands that are available in large quantities at discount prices.´ 19

ADVERTORIAL

sharp! swiss knife Did you know that Switzerland is home to more than 600 cheese producers, over 200 watch companies, over 30 chocolate manufacturers and only 5 knife producers?

Michael Bach, founder of sknife AG, knows what characterises a good knife and identifies its progress: «It’s got to look good, use local materials, and be made by hand.» Bach started ­producing high-quality knives in Biel 5 years ago. Today the knives are endorsed by the world’s best restaurants.

´ In Switzerland, interested individuals can take a ­three-year course as a cutler. The apprenticeship is ­organised by the Swiss Master Cutlers Association.

As a journeyman’s project, the cutler has to produce ah ­ andmade pocket knife and a chef’s knife.´

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´ The production of a forged-steel knife begins with a blank heated to over 1,000 °C and forged into the desired shape under a blacksmith’s hammer. The highest level of knifemaking is the production of damask steel knives. Hard and soft layers of steel are forged together, and the individual layers are subsequently made visible by means of an acid treatment. As a result of this process, damask steel knives can be ground out much thinner while retaining a high stability. sknife today is the only manufacturer worldwide that produces steak cutlery in damask steel.´

´ More than 90% of wood used in knife handles is of tropical origin as it is more suitable owing to its higher density. A newly d ­ eveloped ­process based on research c ­ arried out by the Bern University of ­Applied Sciences permits the use of local wood, such as ash and ­walnut. In this process, the wood’s pores are closed by introducing acrylic r­ esin in a vacuum-pressure p ­ rocedure, ­making it suitable for use in a ­restaurant kitchen. As an i­nteresting side effect, the wood can be ­designed with decorative colours, for instance ash in black and grey.´

´ The higher the carbon share, the harder the blade.

Unfortunately, it also lowers the corrosive resistance.

A r­ ecently developed type of surgical steel stores ­nitrogen instead of carbon, reaching the hardness of Japanese knives while simultaneously improving ­corrosive resistance by a factor of four – ideal for use in restaurants by the sea and on yachts, such as at the yacht club in Monaco.´

´ Form follows function – regular­ exchange with top chefs provides sknife with important input and s­ upports product development. For some chefs, we have developed a specially ­produced series – a joint process starting with an early sketch and ending with the ­production of a prototype. Regular visits to Biel by many chefs working in the region give us good insight into their needs and desires. The exchange of ideas provides us with valuable input for improvement.´

SKNIFE AG

Monthly guided tours upon request +41 32 322 97 55 sknife.com 21

hunting truffles tuberibus conspersit In the olden days of the Greeks and Romans, truffles were c ­ onsidered an aphrodisiac, not least of all owing to their ­irresistible aroma. Stefan Heilemann is a chef who enjoys working with luxury products. Mixing classical French cuisine with elements of the modern kitchen is the formula favoured by the 18-point chef who joined the kitchen of the Widder Restaurant in ­Zurich. His rule is simple: only the best is good enough. ´ For storage, it is r­ ecommended to roll the truffles in a paper towel and keep them as airtight as ­possible in a preserving jar or a plastic container in the refrigerator. This way, truffles can be stored for up to five days, although they do lose some of their flavour every day.´

© [Toma Evsuvdo] / stocksy.com

´ The quality of truffles can be recognised by their smell, texture, and level of maturity. While their ­texture should be firm, the level of Périgord truffles’ maturity can be recognised by their full-bodied deep-black colour and that of Alba truffles by their light brown hue.´

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´ In principle, fat is essential in a truffle dish. White ­truffles do not like acidity as it destroys their flavour, and one has to be very careful to avoid it. P ­ ersonally, I consider eggs to be the best combination with ­truffles. For winter, we are planning a dish consisting of e ­ gg-yolk ravioli accompanied by spinach, Parmesan cheese and white truffles.´

´ Except for the fact that they are both t­ ruffles, white and black truffles share very few similarities. Their taste is different, and they have different uses in the kitchen.

While white truffles are shaved over a dish, because their aroma is very volatile, black truffles develop additional aroma when heated, for instance, briefly in butter. ­Truffles from the region of Alba in Piedmont are clearly the most expensive.´

´ The aroma of white ­truffles is distinctive and difficult to define.

While their traditional ­harvesting season is mid-­October to endDecember, today, the first white truffles are harvested as early as September, and Périgord truffles from the beginning of December to the end March.

Meanwhile, winter truffles from Australia can be enjoyed in the European summer, and their quality is in no way inferior to that of truffles from France.´

´ Truffles are sold by weight: white truffles start at 1,000 Swiss francs per kilogram and black truffles at 3,000 francs. Depending on size and quality as well as supply and demand, their price may be considerably higher.´ 23

WIDDER RESTAURANT

Rennweg 4, Zurich +41 044 224 25 26 widderhotel.com

THE VIEW

the view of Philippe Clarinval WORDS MARTIN HOCH PHOTOS NICO SCHAERER

A

hotelier must be authentic» is just a short statement that Philippe Clarinval ­expresses, and it couldn’t be more to the point.

In it lies the entire philosophy of the General Manager of the Carlton Hotel St. Moritz. Being authentic means not only knowing and living your own value(s), but also being empathetic ­towards everyone around you. Each inter­action triggers emotions, leading to change. Each conversation sparks reflections, often leading to­new ideas. Clarinval welcomes his role as an influencer who shapes minds and personalities – a role that serves both those he interacts with as well as himself. He explains this with a smile that s­ oftens the s­ eriousness in his tone.

Progress, change and exchange give him joy.

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´IT IS ­IMPORTANT TO ME THAT WITH US OUR GUESTS RESTORE THE V ­ ALUE OF THEIR TIME. THAT AFTER THEIR ­STRENUOUS EVERYDAY LIFE THEY MIGHT FIND BACK TO THEIR INNER SELF.´

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´IN ST. MORITZ, COSMOPOLITAN ­ATMOSPHERE COMES FACE TO FACE WITH WILD ­NATURE. ONCE A PLAYFUL TEENAGER, THE HOLIDAY ­DESTINATION IS NOW A SOPHISTICATED ADULT.´

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THE VIEW

´WHEN SHARED WITH ­OTHERS, CULINARY ­EXPERIENCES TURN INTO ­MOMENTS OF WARM-­ HEARTEDNESS, OF SHARING AND OF EXCHANGES, AND THUS INTO A TIME OF PURE BLISS, FILLED TO THE BRIM WITH MOMENTS THAT REMAIN ­UNFORGETTABLE.´ 28

´MY TIME IN ASIA GAVE ME BOTH CANDOUR AND A GRACIOUS EASE – TRAITS THAT ARE ­INDISPENSABLE WHEN WORKING IN FIRST-CLASS HOSPITALITY.´

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THE VJ ROYAL

The signature cocktail of the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa

0.6 cl

Monin pear syrup

1 cl

Jsotta vermouth bianco

10 cl

Veuve Cliquot rich white / rosé

Garnish

Pear, thyme, lime wedge

PRESENTATION

Created in a red wine glass on lots of rox

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PORTRAIT

ROLAND HÖGE Chef de Bar, Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa

´ I enjoy ­creating new taste ­experiences and being a host at the same time.´

WORDS ALEX KUEHN

Roland Höge discovered his passion for flavours as a child. «I spent a lot of time in the kitchen warming up meals for me and my sister whenever­we were at home alone. That led to my completing an apprenticeship as a chef,» says the Chef de Bar at the Grand Hotel VictoriaJungfrau­.­ Subsequently he went on to training in hotel management and then to working behind the bar – a love that has lasted until today.

«I enjoy creating new taste experiences and being a host at the same time,» says the 38-year-old. From a conversation with a guest he attempts to determine which drink best fits at that moment.

The fact that he learned on his own how to cook serves him well today. «Both cooking and mixology are professions connected with creating a taste experience, and many techniques used in the kitchen – such as sous-vide cooking – can also be used at the bar.»

At the Victoria Bar, Roland Höge is not only concerned with drink but also with food. «New taste worlds can open up with a suitable ­pairing.

For example, home-made chocolates filled with quince-Roquefort ganache harmonise well with rum, whisky and port wine,» says Höge.

Because he has a world view, Höge may r­ ecommend a chocolate that 31

goes extremely well with an exquisite ­cigar: «It includes Kampot pepper and Bali long pepper. It complements the creaminess and the ­cedar-wood note of the tobacco.»

ROLAND HÖGE’S TIP FOR A DAY IN AND AROUND INTERLAKEN

«In winter, a large ice rink is constructed directly opposite the Victoria-Jungfrau Hotel. I enjoy meeting friends and other bartenders there for a game of curling. Afterwards, I often walk to a small lake called «Burgseeli» and enjoy a meal at the rustic Restaurant Q. While reading the menu I can practice my ­knowledge of the local dialect.»

talking wine with Christoph Kokemoor

Not unexpectedly, Christoph Kokemoor was the first recipient of Guide Michelin Switzerland’s Sommelier Award in 2019. We met him at his place of work, the historical Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois.

He is the sommelier at the hotel’s 3* restaurant Cheval Blanc by Peter Knogl, which is home to a wine cellar holding some 11,000 bottles of outstanding wines.

WORDS THOMAS HAUER

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PORTRAIT

´I try to describe wines not only metaphorically, but rather with all senses.´

In 1797, Napoleon Bonaparte dined at Les Trois Rois. Rumour has it that the future Emperor of France preferred to enjoy his favourite wine, Gevrey-­ Chambertin, chilled. Today, this would be ­considered a taboo, right? How would you deal with such an ­unconventional guest request? At Les Trois Rois, such requests are rare. We’re not in Zurich, Geneva or New York. However, should a guest ask for an ice cube with a glass of red wine, sure, I’d serve it. We’d never argue the point. A visit to the Cheval Blanc is meant to make our guests happy, and their pleasure takes absolute priority over our own preferences.

In 2019, you were bestowed Guide Michelin­ ­Switzerland’s prestigious Sommelier Award. What is the significance of such an award? At the start of a career, especially, it can serve as a m ­ otivation to remain on the ball and always give one’s best. I, myself, having worked on the job for many years, consider awards are nice to receive, but they are not the priority.

Of course, it is an honour, a confirmation of the quality of one’s work, but at the end of the day, our guests decide whether I served them well.

The Cheval Blanc’s wine list includes over 700 different wines ranging from 50 Swiss francs for a bottle of Riesling x Silvaner from the Basel region to 13,500 francs for a bottle of Romanée Conti 2010 Burgundy from France. Truthfully, how often do you sell a bottle in the latter price range? Surely, a luxury wine of this kind mainly serves as a conversation piece. From my point of view, it needs both types in a top-class restaurant, reasonably priced wines that are fun to drink, and truly unique wines at a world-class level. Mainly, however, the price must reflect the ­value.

To be precise, the Romanée Conti is actually a bargain.

In the market, you wouldn’t get this bottle for less than 19,000 francs. Consequently, for the same money you would need to enjoy a bottle of this wine in our restaurant, you could invite a dozen more friends for a fine meal. Quite honestly, most of the wines we serve are in a balanced price range.

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We’ve also noticed that your wine list contains more than 100 types of champagne… True, sparkling wines – and especially champagne – are a hobby of mine, you could say, my passion. About 40 per cent of the selection on the list are produced organically, a very robust trend at the moment.

Your wine list includes over a dozen vintages of Château Cheval Blanc, a legendary Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru, to which the restaurant owes its name. Do you have a hot tip for a good bottle of ­Bordeaux that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg? Unfortunately, the price of Bordeaux wines has s­ kyrocketed in recent years and reached ­a stronomical heights, which is a problem for exclusive restaurants. We are happy to see that the market situation has eased up a little with the 2019 vintage – current subscription prices are more or less back at the level of 2008. But you are absolutely right, there are lovely ­Bordeaux Châteaux outside the Grand Cru range. The simpler Crus Bourgeois offer outstanding products. Off the top of my head, Château Poujeaux from the Moulis ­region comes to mind. Wines that are great enjoyment for the money come from such

PORTRAIT

Increasingly, non-alcoholic beverages are coming into vogue in top-class restaurants. What do you think of this trend? We have relatively few guests asking for a non-alcoholic beverage, no more than six or eight a year. That is why we do not have a standard selection, although we do serve some ­non-alcoholic ­alternatives. We’ve had very good experiences with single-variety grape juice from Sauvignon Blanc or Gewürztraminer, which convey the primary aroma of the grape variety without alcohol surprisingly well.

From your point of view, which elements of a dish are the most important when choosing a ­suitable wine accompaniment? In the past, the sauce determined the wine. Today, considering the complexity of the dishes, often with a dozen or more ­components on a single plate, this is no longer true. However, the style of our head chef, Peter Knogl, f­ ocuses on three to four first-class, intensely aromatic elements, which must be taken into consideration when recommending a wine.

In this respect, it is essential that the focus remains on the food. In other words, the dish and the wine should not put up a fight for ­supremacy. In actual fact, the wine should supplement or complement the aromas on the plate. Therefore, I don’t make a general recommendation concerning wine to accompany a dish. From the various options, I will recommend a wine that I believe will best fit the individual guest’s taste.

With more than twelve years of service, you count as one of the veterans among the staff at the Cheval Blanc. Have you ever been tempted to work in another restaurant? In the past 30 years I have ­r elocated thirteen times for occupational reasons.

That’s enough! Should I ever move again, it would be to a retirement home. (He laughs). I love Basel, and I’m surrounded by a great team. As long as this situation doesn’t change, I see no reason to move on. I enjoy putting down roots.

producers as Château de Fieuzal (Graves) or Château La Croix Saint ­André ­(Lalande-de-Pomerol). Of course, these wines will ­obviously not provide the same level of enjoyment as a top-class Bordeaux.

How would you describe a wine to guests who have never before tasted it? Do you fall back on ­sommelier phraseology, or do you try to show by the use of visual imagery? If I know in which lines of business my guests work, I like to make use of connected analogies. For a guest in the field of music, for instance, I may compare the wine to an opera by Wagner or a symphony by Mozart, depending on its character. For other guests I might use examples from architecture, the visual arts, or the animal kingdom. If you like, I try to describe wines not only metaphorically, but rather with all senses.

In a recent interview you mentioned that, today, fewer guests ask for a wine list. Instead, they prefer to order on the recommendation of the wine steward.

Are the days of the fat, leather-bound wine b ­ ibles on the way out? Today, on average, of ten tables only one or two will ask for a wine list. As a result, and I take a critical view of this, we have considered changing to a digital format. While an iPad may be stylish and practical, it doesn’t convey a sufficiently high ­le ­ vel of ­emotion and sensuality which I feel is an essential part of the enjoyment of wine.

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«H» SPECIAL

Ferrari in the bottle WORDS ALEX KUEHN

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´TRUE EXCELLENCE IS NOT POSSIBLE WITHOUT CONSISTENCY.´

«H» SPECIAL

Sparkling wines of the highest quality with an unmistakable personality are produced in the sun-drenched mountain valleys of Trentino. Join us on a visit to a magical region.

«If you aim to create an excellent sparkling wine, you must think like the conductor of an orchestra,» says Camilla Lunelli. «Similar to obtaining a full, harmonious sound, in our business you need skill to perfectly match several factors. Harmony suffers if too much emphasis is on one musical instrument and, similarly, when a base wine is too dominant.»

Signora Lunelli knows exactly what she is talking about. Her family, third-generation of winemakers, produces the enormously successful sparkling wine Ferrari Trento.

In 2019, the Lunelli family secured the title of Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year for the third time after 2015 and 2017. In the Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships, the Lunellis beat

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most prominent champagne houses. «These awards are of enormous significance to me, especially because I love champagne. They confirm that there are several regions that produce outstanding sparkling wines,» explains Camilla Lunelli.

In Trentino, characterised by sunny days, cool nights, wind and a special terroir, with the exception of the volcanic Cembra valley with soil consisting of stone and sand, grapes of select quality thrive. The goal at Ferrari Trento is to transfer the personality of this magic region into a bottle. Camilla Lunelli is convinced that «it takes unmistakable style to really stand apart».

Ferrari Trento’s ambition is not limited to a single vintage or a specific wine, but to each individual bottle.

In this regard, much depends on Ruben Larentis. Ferrari Trento’s chief oenologist and technical director works long days during harvest season in order to keep a close eye on the pressing of the grapes.

´ACTUALLY, SPARKLING WINES GO WITH EVERYTHING, EVEN WITH A CIGAR.´

Considering that grapes always vary, there is no strict recipe in winemaking. «Although we lay great store by state-of-the-art technology, it cannot replace human expertise,» emphasizes Camilla Lunelli, whose company purchases no still wine for the base but rather carries out the entire production process in-house.

In order to maintain the originality and quality of the terroir, the Lunellis have for many years consistently set stock in sustainability.

Their own vineyards, which measure some 100 hectares, were awarded organic certification in 2014. The 500 families that supply additional grapes to Ferrari Trento also dedicate themselves to production in concert with nature.

The Lunellis are convinced that organic wine growing in climatically blessed Trentino is of advantage not only to the environment but also to the quality of the final product. However, let it be known that they are not the only ones who appreciate unspoiled nature. Every now and then, a brown bear pays a visit to one of the vineyards.

Chardonnay, the dominating grape in the Trentino, was introduced to the region only at the beginning of the 20th century. Company founder Giulio Ferrari recognised the enormous potential of this grape and laid the foundation for 38

his family’s success story. Today, the Ferrari’s Blancs des Blancs are utilised in a wide range of wines.

The two complex Riservas, which lie on the yeast not for three or five years, but for ten: Riserva Lunelli, full-bodied thanks to aging in oak barrels; and creamy and elegant Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore, which is surprisingly fresh.

The producers’ most exclusive wine, Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore Rosé, after ten years on the yeast, exhibits a fine and rich perlage, vibrating intensity, a flavour of wild roses, red berries and citrus fruit as well as a mineral note. The key to success is again 80 per cent Pinot Nero and 20 ­per cent Chardonnay. Antonio Colaianni of Restaurant Ornellaia in Zurich, one of Switzerland’s top chefs, says: «Actually, sparkling wines go with everything, and when matured, even with a cigar. They refresh and clean your taste buds which then remain sensitive.»

And what are Colaianni’s culinary recommendations to go with Ferrari Trento’s sparkling wines? «A rosé with a Gambero-Rosso tartare with tarragon, cucumber, peperoncino and lime; a Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore with belly of young pork from Ormalingen, mashed beans and smoked eel; Riserva Lunelli with a veal chop with yellow boletus and sage butter.» By the way: pizza and sparkling wine make a really great match. Soon, I believe events will be organised in Switzerland similar to those in Italy where this pairing is served.

MORE INFORMATION

ferraritrento.com

Zurich’s Premium Department Store Your shopping destination no. 1 on Zurich’s famous Bahnhofstrasse

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HOST WITH THE MOST CURATED BY JASMIN BRUNNER

A feast for all senses. Furnish your nest with our selection of tasteful kitchen items.

«Dove c’è pasta c’è famiglia» (where there’s pasta, there’s family) expresses the generally accepted feeling that pasta, more than any other dish, radiates warmth and brings people together.

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TRENDS GOURMET

We produce the finest granola; organic, tasty and a unique local craft.

In short, we offer you «bites of bliss.»

Grappa Berta Amarone «Tra Noi» (engl. «among us») is a limited edition of 798 bottles, which has been aged in Swiss cherry wood barrels.

Protect your table with leather coasters from the latest Ralph Lauren Bar collection with tasteful polo imprints.

– CHF 19 (all variations) thetinyfactory.ch

– Garrett Saddle Leather Coasters, set of 4, from CHF 115, ralphlauren.ch

– CHF 98, vergani.ch

Mosaique au platinum pays homage to the mosaic which covers the floor of 24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the historic Hermès store. Bread and butter plate.

– From CHF 120, hermes.com

Knot Chair in Black/Nature made of stained ash and paper cord.

– CHF 480 normann-copenhagen.com

Hermès Mosaique au 24 gold teapot.

– CHF 700, available on hermes.com or Jelmoli

With the «WILD Edition Sommelier» Series, Werner Retter of the Retter Fruit Farm in Austria’s Steiermark strikes out in a new direction. His interest lies with the world’s best wild and primeval forest locations and their unique berries and fruit.

Piero Fornasetti shows his passion for opera singer and muse Lina Cavalieri by featuring her portrait on this porcelain «Losanghe» candle, crafted from vegetablebased wax that burns to release the brand’s signature warm «Otto» fragrance – blended with thyme and lavender top notes.

– «Scacco» candle from CHF 199, available on fornasetti.com or at Jelmoli Zurich

For your golden holiday ­breakfast.

– Academy Gold ­ emitasse spoons, D set of 4, from CHF 65 ralphlauren.ch

– WILD Quince Edition Sommelier 2018 CHF 29.80 weinauslese.ch

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Ruinart launches its new eco-designed Ruinart second skin Blanc de Blancs and Rosé cases: 2 years of research & development, a 100% paper case that reduces the bottle’s packaging carbon footprint by 60% and is 9 times lighter than the previous gift box generation.

– CHF 89, available at Globus and selected specialists

Highly functional and display-worthy cutting boards, handmade from white oak at Blackcreek Mercantile & Trading Co.’s Kingston, New York studio.

– From CHF 160 blackcreekmt.com

Dior Maison unveils a new collection in homage to the gentle, sunny lifestyle Christian Dior loved so much. The embroidered placemat pays tribute to the emblematic Toile de Jouy print, and evokes the elegant ambiance of Dior’s first boutique, «Colifichets».

– CHF 390, dior.com

Claudio Del ­Principe picks out the best Italian recipes with vegetables, describes their origin, t­radition and preparation and adds his own twist to contemporary creations and inspiring thoughts.

Special Editions CaviArt, this year featured by Eric Ray Blum, ice hockey professional, founder of the OnkaiHeiwa label and band member of «We and the Bulls».

– 100 g CHF 295 oona-caviar.ch/shop

– CHF 40, AT Verlag

Ferrari stands for fast cars – and top of the range spumante from the Italian Alps. Produced like a champagne, «Perlé brut» matures for five (!) years on the yeast. Wow!

From the Peruvian highlands into the cup: Nespresso’s Peru Organic allows coffee-lovers to experience new, sustainable flavours.

– nespresso.ch

– CHF 36, bindella.ch

Make yourself comfortable – the sophisticated technical construction of spring-action and seat cushion offers superb comfort designed to last a lifetime.

– FRIDAY 1 designed by Formstelle, 2012 CHF 2,555, zeitraum-moebel.de

100% pure Mandarin grown under the Greek sun, using sustainable and environmentally friendly farming & production methods.

– CHF 7 mediterre.com

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The new Ralph Lauren Langley barware collection is ­inspired by the delicate detailing of a traditional watch.

– Langley Martini Glass from CHF 110 and Langley Decanter, from CHF 250, available on ralphlauren.ch or at Jelmoli Zurich

TRENDS GOURMET

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1 — Tea time is all about taking time out to enjoy the moment over a hot cup of tea – and nowhere else is this ritual so beautifully performed than in St. Moritz. badruttspalace.com 2 — The Museo d’arte della Svizzera italiana features Ticino-based artist PAM Paolo Mazzuchelli with the exhibition titled Tra le ciglia, tracing the various stages of his career and showcasing around 150 works – 06.09.20 – 28.03.21, masilugano.ch

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Thanks to our deep market knowledge and our tight network in and around Switzerland, we facilitate highest quality production — the magazine you are holding is our business card.

Contact us at prowema.ch +41 44 950 28 21

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THE STORY BEHIND THE STORY

wanted to attend the spring festival «Chalandamarz», to which children bring a nice bell. Ursli’s bell was very small and his friends mocked him. So he decided to climb the mountain, and look for a large cow bell in an Alpine hut. Surviving bad weather and danger, he succeeded with his quest and became a star at the festival.

TEATIME IN CHUR A COLUMN

BY DANIEL TSCHUDY

After a 14-minute ride from Maienfeld, the elegant lady stepped off the train in Chur. She insisted she was still strong enough to travel on her own and happily agreed to meet me and my other special guest at the Café Maron.

I had met neither of them in person before, but read much of their childhood. And by what I know, the two had never met before either.

Waiting at the Café was Ursli, better known as Schellen-Ursli, another popular child star.

He arrived from Guarda, his home-town in the ­Lower Engadine.

MUTUAL APPRECIATION Now in Chur, decades later, Heidi and Ursli are fascinated to meet. They exchanged experiences, and chatted about fame, travel, and success. Heidi had already been a global star by the end of the 19th century, appearing in countless radio plays, cartoons and films.

The story had been translated into fifty­languages, including Hindi, Afrikaans, and Japanese of course. Heidi is still a superstar in Japan. Less known, Schellen-Ursli too conquered the world. Selina Chönz’ book, written in Romansh, was translated into many languages, including Japanese and Afrikaans too. Heidi was featured on many stamps, and so was Ursli. The first film adaptation of Schellen-Ursli was made in 1953; Not Schlegel, who played the boy, still lives near Guarda. Oscar winner Xavier Koller directed a new production in 2015 and four years later, a family opera premiered in Basel.

Heidi and Ursli take a last sip, look happily in each other’s eyes and understand that they should have met earlier. It’s just so complicated with time travel. But they admire each other’s stories, and appreciate their teatime in Chur. Ursli now returns to Guarda; Heidi takes the train back to Maienfeld. Let’s meet again, they promised

UNFORGETTABLE NARRATIVES Heidi was the lead character in two of ­Switzerland’s most famous children’s books, written by Johanna Spyri in 1880/81. «Years of Wandering and Learning» and «How She Used What She Learned» show how Spyri wanted to describe a romantic image of her country.

The story talks about Heidi, after her mother died, and how she got involved with her hermit grandfather high above Maienfeld, and with Peter, a local goat herd. Eventually, her aunt took her to Frankfurt for more a ­ dventures with the Sesemann family and their child Klara.

Novelist Selina Chönz published «Schellen-Ursli» in 1945. Due to the expressive drawings of Alois Carigiet, it soon became the most popular picture book in Switzerland. U ­ rsli 45

Illustrations: Schellen-Ursli (left) by Alois Carigiet; Heidi

by Yoichi Kotabe.

KEYPIECES

a weekend in St. Moritz WORDS CLIFFORD LILLEY

Such an i­ conic destination calls for stylish ­pieces and cool a ­ ccessories.

The question of what to wear a ­ lways comes up first for me.

MUST-HAVES

Welcome to St. Moritz, where beauty and ­nature rule supreme.

Perhaps, like me, you will fall in love with the grandeur of its great old luxury ­hotels as much as with the ­awesome spectacle that n ­ ature provides. ­St. Moritz is inspiring all year round. The wide open spaces, the towering mountains, the placid lakes.

The hotels themselves provide a sense of ­refined elegance and old world luxury, combined with state-of-theart ­technology and beautifully ­designed modern ­facilities.

This evocative cocktail speaks to the very core of my stylish heart! Not to mention the gourmet restaurants, winter sports and endless sunshine. And that, in a nutshell, is my St. Moritz.

1 Coolest wrap down The Stone Island anorak impresses with its checked 3D pattern in relief.

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– Available at Jelmoli

2 Kaenon Sunglasses 2

I can see clearly now! Their classic style combined with the advanced polarised glass offer everything I could wish for in a pair of sunglasses.

– Available at Giovanoli, Sport & Moda Sils

3 Keeping good time

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This particular Telda watch was o ­ riginally part of a limited edition known as the Paul Newman chronograph (with permission from Rolex)!

– Zeitjaeger.ch

4 Cashmere luxury There’s nothing quite like the luxury of a cashmere scarf to cheer one up on a chilly day. Add some colour and class with this gorgeous item from the latest collection at the house of Hermès.

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– Hermes.com

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5 Cold-weather boots It was love at first sight and I HAD to have them for my weekend in St. Moritz.

I love the cool styling and the fact they are waterproof, practically weightless.

– Available at Jelmoli

6 Bottoms up When Joseph Krug established his champagne house, his dream was to craft the very best prestige champagne every year regardless of annual climate variations.

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– Enjoy a glass of Grande Cuvée 168th Edition, at Badrutt’s Palace.

Also available at Globus.

7 It’s style o’clock 5

Dressed to kill in this sumptuous blue velvet jacket, this glamorous Zegna blazer conjures up an image of a James Bond world of style and seduction.

– Available at Jelmoli

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GIFTS TO TAKE HOME

Culinary pleasure Local natural products from PurAlps.

Exclusive restaurant & bar Balthazar in St. Moritz

– Via Maistra 3, St. Moritz puralps.ch WHERE TO EAT & DRINK Giovanoli Sport & Moda in Sils

Thanks a latté Coffee beans to grind from Glattfelder.

– Via Maistra 3, St. Moritz glattfelder.ch

WHAT TO DISCOVER

Sweet tooth Hanselmann’s café and confiserie. Chocolates for sweethearts!

– Via Maistra 8, St. Moritz hanselmann.ch

Take a leisurely drive to Sils Maria, have lunch at the Waldhaus and then enjoy a horse-drawn carriage ride through the Fex Valley.

Upscale butcher

When in Sils make sure you check out the fabulous Giovanoli’s for fashion and sportswear of the very best design and quality… great labels and great service.

– Via Maistra 16, St. Moritz hatecke.ch/shop

The exceptional quality of the meat in this upscale butcher is quite simply legendary!

Restaurant and butcher all in one.

Take home your favourite cut!

Fine dining Da Vittorio 2 Michelin stars and 18 Gault Millau points.

– Via Johannes Badrutt 11, St. Moritz, davittorio.com

Casual Conrad’s Mountain Lodge Restaurant Silvaplana for the best pizzas far and wide. A meal within a meal created by the former HR manager of the Carlton Hotel.

Cindy – we love you!

– Via dal Farrer 1, Silvaplana cm-lodge.com

– giovanoli-sils.ch

Swiss specialities

Another drive would take you to the nearby charming town of Pontresina and dinner at the 5-star Kronenhof Hotel.

Chesa al Parc rustic charm with large sun terrace at the KULM Hotel.

– kronenhof.com Luxury butcher Hatecke in St. Moritz Upon returning to St. Moritz take a trip back in time to the Segantini Museum, home to Swiss artist Giovanni Segantini.

Awe-inspiring!

– Via Maistra 44, St. Moritz chesaspuondas.ch

Alpine specialities Balthazar St. Moritz Restaurant, lounge, bistro, bar… a favourite among the cool and trendy.

– segantini-museum.ch

– Via dal Bagn 20, St. Moritz balthazar-stmoritz.ch

Contemporary art at the Hauser and Wirth gallery situated directly opposite Badrutt’s famous Palace Hotel in the St. Moritz Galleries brings one back to the here and now and the world of modern art.

Always worth a look into.

AND BEFORE YOU GO…

Cherish your last moments in St. Moritz with a glass of sparkling champagne in the luxurious lounge of the stunning Carlton Hotel.

Perfection!

– hauserwirth.com

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The hotel was festively inaugurated on 16 December 1912. Right on time for the opening celebration, snow transformed Suvretta House into a storybook castle in the midst of spellbinding winter landscape. Guests arrived from all over the world to delight in the Suvretta House experience and simply enjoy life to the fullest.

In the course of the decades, the hotel hosted many celebrities from the arts, the movie industry, politics, and business. They came to enjoy sports and fun on snow and ice, ecstatic ballroom parties, the amicable atmosphere, luxury and discretion – characteristic hallmarks upheld by Suvretta House to this very day.

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creating

memories A sophisticated combination of ­­ contemporary and historical: interior of the Memories Restaurant.

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CHEF’S PORTRAIT

While there are many talented chefs, only a handful ­possesses a clear creative signature to match that of Sven Wassmer. One year after its premiere, his restaurant, ­Memories, has become a beacon of Alpine cuisine.

WORDS ALEX KUEHN

aside reveals the salad’s inner core: a green-pea flan base serves as the bed for a velouté of green asparagus, briefly blanched fresh peas, finely diced red fennel, and pickled elderberry blossoms. The key feature is sallow-thorn fermented for a week in salt and chilli, which lends the dish fruitiness, depth and a touch of spice. A drop of tarragon oil and elderberry-blossom vinegar completes this masterpiece.

How can the nature of Sven Wassmer’s sensual and natural cuisine be put into words without succumbing to cheap clichés? Perhaps, if we provide a detailed description of a typical Wassmer dish which he himself modestly labels a «green salad».

The top layer of this creation consists of a bouquet of crisp lettuce leaves decorated with dried chive blossoms and a dash of herb-infused oil. Sliding the lettuce leaves 51

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1 — At the Memories Restaurant, the team aims to bring back reminiscences among its guests and create new ones 2 — In his dishes, Sven Wassmer brings out the freshness, naturalness and love of the product 3 — Sven Wassmer and his kitchen team are well adjusted to working together, and they bring the highest standards of quality and enjoyment to the table

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CHEF’S PORTRAIT

While Massimo Bottura’s famous blossom salad may look a little more avant-garde than Wassmer’s Alpine interpretation of the theme, its flavour doesn’t get close to it. «I’ve had the idea for a salad dish in my mind for years. One day, when I watched our vegetable supplier, Marcel Foffa, work in the field, I saw how pearls of morning dew developed on the Salanova lettuce heads, my brain began to work overtime,» the chef explains. «My idea was to move only one product into the limelight and not serve the entire range of Marcel’s harvest on a single plate – aiming to condense the qualities of a lettuce and elevate it to the level of fine dining.»

The Memories’ kitchen immediately provides consolation in the form of Wassmer’s signature dish: char carefully cured by Curdin Capeder in Val Lumnezia, accompanied by an enchanting sauce of caramelised cream, a dash of milk and fir-needle oil. «This dish has become a comforting memory for me – as well as for numerous guests who ask for it repeatedly. It reflects how we like to cook best: reduced and with Alpine flavours,» says Wassmer. «When I put char on the menu in Vals for the first time several years ago, I finally summoned up the courage to leave out everything that wasn’t absolutely necessary. This concept characterises my style of cooking to this day.

The success of this concept was the confirmation I needed to continue and consistently deepen my path.»

To accompany the iconic dish, Sven Wassmer’s wife Amanda, who is responsible for purchasing and the choice of wines, recommends

a wine from Canton Aargau – and not from the nearby «Bündner Herrschaft» region, as one would expect: «The fact that food and wine come from the same region is not sufficient reason for them to be a perfect fit. A Chardonnay from the Grisons is too overbearing, whereas Tom Litwan’s Chardonnay, ‘Schinznach Wanne’, has the necessary lightness to accompany the dish, and it does not have a woody taste.»

How does the couple work together, what makes them a successful team, both privately and in their profession? «Often, Sven will spontaneously call out for me: ‘I’ve just created something, would you come over and taste it?’ Of course, this usually happens when I’m busy with office work and under pressure,» says the Grand Hotel’s wine director and laughs. What follows is a sensory ping-pong with adjustments on the one or the other. «If I have to fine-tune a dish to allow Amanda to make the ideal wine pairing, I gladly oblige. Our aim is to create an overall experience that will be memorable. The more expertise I can take advantage of, the better,» says the chef. Sebastian Stichter, the restaurant manager and sommelier, sous-chef Benedikt Gerster, and chef-patissier Andy Vorbusch, each with a fine sense for food creations, join the tastings.

Ideally, emphasises Amanda Wassmer, the wine will open up new taste experiences with a flavour that is not entirely round and appealing.

Guests appreciate this enthusiasm, and sometimes over 90 per cent of them order the recommended pairing, which is also available in a non-alcoholic or mixed version.

´A preference for ­ regional ingredients, but never at the expense of culinary enjoyment.´

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´ Whitefish ­ resents a p challenge, and it took a long time for me to find the right approach.´

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In contrast to some of his colleagues in the Champions League of culinary fame, Wassmer is not attracted to luxury products, but to modest ones, a case in point is a whitefish from Lake Lucerne. He pickles it for four minutes by means of which he achieves a gentle cooking process. He softens the leathery skin with a dozen small cuts, and quick flaming gives it a crispy texture. The two-star Michelin chef serves the fish with a cream of sorrel, finely cut leaves of sorrel and nasturtium, freshly shaved horseradish and sour cream with horseradish and roe of whitefish. If you did a blind tasting of the fish, you’d never think it was whitefish. Its meat is juicy and buttery, yet beautifully filigree. «Whitefish presents a challenge, and it took a long time for me to find the right approach,» says Wassmer. «But then the freshly caught fish reminded me of herring, and I knew: it wants to be pickled!»

On the other hand, cuts in the skin are rooted in Kaiseki cooking: «Japan has a spring eel that is edible only if you cut each of its bones.»

Wassmer’s aspiration is to challenge himself and his team of top culinary professionals every day. «When you stop looking for and discovering new things, life gets boring.» He adds that «my chefs don’t work here only to earn a salary. They feel an urge to consistently continue developing both themselves and our kitchen.» He doesn’t shy away from rough edges. Take, for instance, the braised celeriac he carves into thin slices and returns into the shape of the original bulb and serves with an intensive, dark poultry sauce cooked with finely chopped needles of a Swiss stone pine tree.

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Contrary to his fish creations, this is a dish that may not be to everyone’s taste, but it will deeply imprint itself in every guest’s memory. It is as earthy as the mountains surrounding Bad Ragaz and, amazingly, it conveys the comfort experienced when smelling the fragrance of this royal tree in nature.

The final chord of a Memories menu is always played by Andy Vorbusch – one of the world’s best patissiers. The morning of our visit, he spontaneously embellished freshly picked wild strawberries with some Chantilly, a crunchy biscuit and a sorbet of elderberry-flower kombucha: uncharacteristically simple with an outstanding flavour. A true master knows when to hold himself and his artistic talent in check when a product, such as wild strawberry, requires a discreet and subtle companion.

Vorbusch reveals his skills when preparing an ensemble of short pastry, mousse of cream cheese, apricot meringue and hay nougat. The dessert brings back memories of a childhood in Switzerland when apricot tarts were ubiquitous – of course, this symphony of flavours is far fancier. Even more delightful: Andy ­Vorbusch’s beeswax ice cream with a cream of flowers, mead granité and lemon verbena. The Memories team started the honey wine required for the ice cream twelve months earlier. After all, time is one of the helpers in the search for flavours that will be remembered for many years to come. ­

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Š Freeriding Engadine, Switzerland Tourism

A GUIDE BY DIMITRI & MAMIKO BURKHARD

engadine

N 46°29'54'' | O 9°50'20''

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TRAVEL GUIDE MUST-SEE TRADITIONS IN ENGADINE

N°1 Schlitteda Frozen lakes, snow-capped mountains and majestic glaciers: you would think that the Engadine has always been a playground for winter sport enthusiasts. Yet, up until 1864, St. Moritz was visited during summer months exclusively. It took the pioneering spirit of a local hotelier to establish the town as a winter holiday destination.

© Curling, Switzerland Tourism

THE BIRTHPLACE OF WINTER TOURISM

Legend has it that Johannes Badrutt, the owner of the Kulm Hotel, dared the British sun-seekers who were spending their summer holi­ days there to return again during winter. The terms of his bet were that if the guests did not enjoy the sun terrace as much as during summer, the hotel would not charge for their stay. Lo and behold, the initial winter tourists were convinced by the sunny climate. They even extended their stay through spring and word spread quickly about holidays in the snow.

In the 1890s, the hotel introduced winter sports such as skiing, ice-skating, curling and bob sledding. And as a result of Mr. Badrutt’s inventiveness, the Kulm Hotel became the world’s first winter holiday resort. In 1928 and 1948, St. Moritz even hosted the Winter Olympic Games. And still today, the annual White Turf horse races draw spectators from around the world.

Apart from the Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, the Engadine is home to four other properties under the umbrella of Swiss Deluxe Hotels.

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January 9 2021 in Champfèr & February 20 2021 in Silvaplana (from 8:30 AM) Local couples parade in horsedrawn sleds as part of this age-old courtship tradition.

N°2

White Turf February 2022, 6, 13 & 20 Witness the world’s only horse race on a frozen lake. whiteturf.ch

N°3 Chalandamarz March 1 2021 Children dressed in folk costumes roam the streets, ringing their bells to usher in the spring.

TRAVEL GUIDE

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2 Reminisce about life ­during a scenic winter hike

For an unforgettable day in Engadine, pick and choose from our suggestions

The «Philosophers’ Trail» starts at Muottas Muragl and is the perfect way to appreciate the surrounding mountains. At the end of the six-kilometre loop, choose the funicular or a sledge to return to the valley. pontresina.ch

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1 Ride the Bernina Express from St. Moritz to Tirano What better way to see the winter landscape than through the panoramic windows of the Bernina Express? ­Reserve your seat on the Alps’ highest railway line ahead of time. rhb.ch

4 5 5 Try your luck at ice fishing

4 Book a skijoring experience in Samedan The flat valley floor is your perfect practice ground for skijoring. After learning the basics from a pro, you will be pulled across 3 km of pristine winter wonderland. engadingalopp.ch

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A novelty for the Engadine, it is now possible to carve a hole into the frozen Lake Sils for ice fishing. (Lake trout are predominant.) Reserve a day pass, then rent a drill and a fishing pole at Restaurant Murtaröl. silsersee.ch

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TRAVEL GUIDE

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3

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3 Treat yourself to an excursion by horse-drawn carriage The side valleys of Val Bever, Val Fex and Val Roseg are only accessible by foot or horseshoe. Hire a carriage for a memorable afternoon. engadin-kutschen.ch

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© Viesturs Lacis | IBSF

7 Ski the ­Corvatsch at night

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6 «Cool Runnings» on the bobsleigh track in Celerina For the ultimate adrenaline kick, book a ride on the world’s only natural track.

With speeds of up to 135 km/h, it is no wonder that it takes all but 75 seconds to reach the finishing line. olympia-bobrun.ch

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Every Friday night at 7 PM, they switch on the lights at Corvatsch.

After skiing Switzerland’s longest illuminated slope, take the night bus back to your hotel. corvatsch.ch

TRY THESE TYPICAL LOCAL DISHES

Due to a worsening food shortage in the 15th century, many Engadine locals were forced to abandon their homes and look for work across Europe. From Copenhagen to Venice, they would gain a reputation for their baking and confectionery skills. As a result, returnees brought considerable wealth back to the Engadine – as well as worldly flavours that influenced the local specialities.

What we treasure about the five-star Suvretta House The privileged location Located in the Suvretta part of St. Moritz, this luxurious hide-out values ­privacy and has been declared «Hotel of the Year 2020/21» by hotel rating Karl Wild. From the ­sun-soaked rooms and suites, enjoy un­obstructed views of the Engadine valley with its lakes.

The elegant dining experience

Capun wraps

The historic Grand Restaurant specialises in French cuisine of the highest quality – plated tableside. At the pinnacle of service is Head Manager, Marco Pavesi, who will prepare a heavenly order of Crêpes Suzette that you will not forget.

Spätzli dough containing air-dried meat, rolled in Swiss chard leaves.

Maluns A typical farmer’s dish of potatoes roasted in butter and flour, often served with apple sauce, cheese or milk coffee.

Pizzoccheri pasta

Everything’s ready for winter sports

Short buckwheat flour pasta served along with vegetables, cubed potatoes and cheese.

The ski room is connected with the hotel’s own ski lift, making the transfer onto the slopes of St. Moritz a breeze. While the kids are busy with the ice castle, ask the concierge for a pair of ice skates. The Suvretta House maintains its very own ice rink.

Walnut cake Leave space for a slice of Engadine nut cake, a delicious pastry filled with caramelised walnuts.

FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM FOR EVEN MORE INSPIRATION: @newlyswissed

MORE INFORMATION

For more information, visit suvrettahouse.ch or follow on Instagram @suvrettahouse 62

Horses flying across the frozen Lake St. Moritz during White Turf.

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TRAVEL GUIDE

From its elevated position, the Carlton ­offers fantastic views of Lake St. Moritz and the ­mountains. Once you are ready for an outdoor ­experience, simply ring up the h ­ otel’s outdoor butler for an ­excursion.

Mr. ­Othmar is a local who knows the ins-andouts of the Engadine.

––– Arrival: St. Moritz can easily be reached by (electric) car, train or even by plane.

Grand Hotel Kronenhof Pontresina Since its opening in 1848, the Grand Hotel Kronenhof has passed through various extensions and renovations.

Today, the heritage building is among the best-preserved 19th-century grand hotels found anywhere. The awardwinning Kronenhof Spa with its breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains is without doubt one of the highlights.

More Engadine hotels for a stylish stay

© Tatiana Vasilieva

Carlton Hotel St. Moritz

Kulm Hotel St. Moritz Being the birthplace of winter t­ ourism, Kulm Hotel combines a rich history with modern ­luxury and contemporary comfort.

The ­incomparable atmosphere and heartfelt service makes it the perfect hide­away for families, sports enthusiasts and epicures alike.

––– Arrival: Kulm Hotel can be reached by car, by Rhaetian Railway on the UNESCO world heritage route as well as by private jet to Engadine airport.

––– Arrival: Pontresina is easily reachable with your preferred vehicle. If you decide to travel by train, the hotel limousine will be waiting for you.

Badrutt’s Palace This hotel knows no limits. And just in 2020, the Badrutt’s Palace had ­another reason to party: the in-house IGNIV by Andreas Caminada ­restaurant has been awarded a second Michelin star.

––– Arrival: In honour of the 100-year anniversary of the first flight between St. Moritz and London, Badrutt’s Palace is offering direct flights on select dates in 2021.

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In we trust

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Styling: Patrick Häusermann, Hair/Make-up: Nicola Fischer, Production: Tina Aich Productions, Female Model: Ellen de Weer/Olga Modelwerk, Male Model: Rudolf Cinovskis/Rafael System Agency

The Carlton sun­ ­terrace offers unique views of the frozen Lake St. Moritz and the impressive Alpine panorama.

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T H E C A R LT O N

mountain trip

«The Carlton Hotel towers above St. Moritz – and upon ­entering the building, a sublime feeling overcomes you. A unique mixture of old-world ­grandeur and modern-day design ­conjures up a fairy-tale atmosphere. ­Welcome to a world that is ­different!»

Oliver Burger, Publisher Jelmoli Magazine PHOTOS CARLTON HOTEL ST. MORITZ // PIERLUIGI MACOR/DS PHOTOGRAPHERS

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By the cosy fireplace on the historical Carlton Bel Etage, guests indulge in a special Engadine afternoon tea.

The Carlton brings a fresh vibe to t足 raditional luxury, offering a 足selection of custom experiences to help you make the most of your stay. Meet the outdoor butler who is more than happy to plan an 足alfresco 足adventure for you or prepare a menu with the two Michelin star chefs of Da Vittorio St. Moritz.

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T H E C A R LT O N

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CHOCOLATE FLOWS

IN OUR

VEINS

We create the finest Swiss chocolate pralines and truffles.

Lovingly by hand.

Confiserie SprĂźngli Swiss chocolate tradition since 1836 70

spruengli.ch/shop

a love of cooking & music WORDS ALEX KUEHN PHOTOS NICO SCHAERER / V-ZUG

Max Herzog and Marcel Skibba share more than a passion for their profession. A conversation about fondue, Cresta Run and the special aura of St. Moritz.

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PERSONALITIES

MAX HERZOG Culinary Director, Carlton Hotel St. Moritz

What would you consider an absolute must for a guest in your restaurant?

— MH: Afternoon tea on the historical Bel Etage at the Carlton Hotel. It has remained practically unchanged for more than a century, and it transports you on a journey through time.

— MS: Next to Eggs Royale and spareribs, which you can order in every IGNIV restaurant, definitely the calf’s sweetbread coated with rice flour, baked crisply, and caramelised with a varnish of tomato, sugar, rice wine, and apple vinegar – an exciting combination of flavours and textures.

What makes St. Moritz a ­special place to work in?

— MH: The clientele up here ­allows

me to work with the most exclusive products every day. That’s a blessing for any chef. I am particularly fond of combining caviar with downto-earth regional ingredients, such as char.

— MS: For me it’s the whole aura of the place. Where else can you find as many absolutely top-class hotels in the midst of such breathtaking mountains. I enjoy entering this world as a guest every now and then, but owing to my work schedule only for breakfast. When I work at the stove at the Palace, I can sense the history of the building.

Where do you like to go when you want to eat simple food in the St. Moritz area?

— MH: My wife and I frequent a few favourite places in and around 72

Pontresina. We really enjoy the Gondolezza which is housed in an old cable-car cabin. The restaurant offers a variety of cheese dishes, like fondue and raclette, as well as the typical cured-meat specialities from the Grisons.

— MS: I’m also a fondue fan, but I prefer to enjoy it at home with friends. When we go out, we often order pizza at the Hotel L ­ audinella.

It is really great and we can go there after work, which is important in our profession.

Which type of winter sport do you enjoy? Would you ever consider going down the Cresta run?

— MH: When I was younger, I was a rather good snowboarder, but now I lack the time to practice.

My priorities changed in favour

© V-ZUG

MARCEL SKIBBA Head Chef, Badrutt’s Palace St. Moritz

of my job. I am fascinated by the ­C resta Run, but I’m not sure I’d have the nerve to give it a go.

— MS: The speed of the Cresta Run is a little too breakneck for me.

Instead, I enjoy skating on the frozen lakes. The water transforms to so-called black ice, which is really dark blue. On snow-free days you can see all the way down to the bottom of the lakes.

Your tip for an outing in the region?

— MS: The hiking trails around St. Moritz are beautiful. From Badrutt’s Palace, for instance, you can walk to Lake Statz, which is great for swimming in summer, and in winter a wonderful place to enjoy the peace and beauty of nature.

— MH: I can warmly recommend a

toboggan ride from Muottas Muragl back to the valley. If you wish, you can gather speed nicely – and the view from up there is fantastic.

If you hadn’t become a chef, which profession would you have chosen?

— MH: Chef was always my dream job. That is why I never considered any other profession. If at all, it would have been in a trade, perhaps a cabinetmaker, like my father.

— MS: I would have liked to ­become a pilot. When I was a child, the profession opened up the big, wide world much more than it does today.

Because my family ran a restaurant, I am glad I became a chef. Luckily, as a chef, I had the opportunity to travel the world anyway.

Many chefs cultivate a special 73

relationship with music. Do you as well?

— MS: Absolutely! When I was younger, I played in a band, and I think I have a good feeling for vibes.

Today, determining the p ­ laylist for our restaurant is my ­responsibility. I attach great value to a soft start and increase the intensity with the main course, and after that I tone the music down again.

— MH: I am not as committed to music as Marcel. Without a doubt, music helps create an atmosphere in which guests feel comfortable.

I like quiet music in the restaurant, and I enjoy jazz and house on vinyl.

Records, to me, are simply more ­authentic than digital sound.

suite talk

Lodgings offering guests a welcome respite have been around since early biblical times. Over the centuries, taverns and rustic guest­ rooms at road-side inns have matured into the ­multifarious­hotel landscape we know today. The ultimate differentiator of any sleepery worth its five-star standing, however, are its suites: p ­ residential, royal, or honeymoon suites and manifold declinations of junior, ­executive, corner, or terrace suites – all there to offer guests the apex of luxury and comfort. One particular type, however, the signature suite, is oftentimes the pièce de résistance of a hotel. Not as large or ­lavish as its presidential or royal counterparts, it is frequently the sort of commodious dwelling that reflects the true DNA of a ­property, often enough thanks to prominent guests who once rested or feted in them, or by their tale-telling design elements.

As I write this, I find myself in one such gem of the latter ­variety at the comprehensibly refurbished La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich on the shores of Lake Zurich. Two masterfully appointed «Eden Suites» include all of the elements of junior, executive, corner, terrace, lakefront, and, why not, honeymoon suites and occupy an entire front-floor. A capacious lounge, a bedroom and roomy corner bathroom are surrounded by four elegant wrought iron balconies offering picture perfect vistas of Lake Zurich, the surrounding hills and the Alps beyond. It’s just the right size and features all the finely-tuned suite components hedged by the humdrum of the fashionable Seefeld district.

Chronicling an imaginary yacht club dreamed up by interiors guru Philippe Starck, nautical accents are dotted around the property yet, paradoxically, the pioneer of the so-called «democratic ­design» has conjured up a wonderfully exclusive and sober décor that at first sight is hardly recognisable as his own. Minutiae here and there hint at his bolder signature style of yesteryears but it is the superposition of the exposed original 100-year old structure with savvy modern patterns that come forward as true showstoppers. Solid exposed brick meets myriad textile surfaces, while rattan wallcoverings harmonise with brushed metal fixtures.

Leathers, trim-lined sofas and chipped marble come together in a modern and achingly handsome interior that radiates spirit and intimacy. With interiors this slick and views this striking, it is easy to sweet-talk guests into main-sailing their monogrammed luggage right into this suite.

WORDS S. HOTTINGER-BEHMER PHOTO MICHEL REYBIER HOSPITALITY

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3 reasons to leave the suite:

1.

WINE & DINE

Perched on the sixth floor in the former attic beneath the hotel’s spectacular dome, La Muña ­towers over Zurich from a magnificent rooftop terrace.

Japanese-­Peruvian delights courtesy of chef Miya Gunji are served outdoors or inside, where the monumental framework of the building is highlighted with yet more original brick walls and ­exposed wooden floors that ­create a truly unique setting.

2.

ROCK YOUR BADI

For more than 120 years, bohochic crowds have jumped from Seebad Utoquai’s diving boards into the cool waters of Lake Zurich to reach pontoon rafts anchored some 50 metres away on a quest for the perfect tan.

This historic lido on the city’s lakefront promenade is favoured by locals and visitors alike for the ultimate summer splash.

3.

EARLY BIRD PEDAL PUSHING

Zurich insiders will tell you that early-morning biking along the lake is probably one of the most beautiful urban cycling routes in the country. Push your ­pedals ­before the first signs of rushhour to reach the other side of the lake, crossing the Limmat all the way to Mythenquai, and ­discover the various rowing clubs while you wave across the water to La ­Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich.

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the call of the

mountains

I sigh contentedly. Warm water bubbles up all around me as a soft, cool little snow flake falls on my head. I open my eyes and take in the amazing view from the Kulm Spa’s outdoor pool: Lake St. Moritz and the Piz Rosatsch are already bathed in sunlight, as the 76

© Siffat Haider

WORDS STEFFI HIDBER

Upon arrival at the Spa, one is immediately ­greeted by a bird’s eye view of the impressive indoor swimming pool.

­weather up here in the Engadine can change quickly. But that’s about all the drama I’ll experience during my stay at one of Switzerland’s most historic h ­ otels. Come join me for an extraordinary, pine-scented spa experience in a truly breathtaking setting.

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© Siffat Haider @icingandglitter

WELLNESS

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They’re every­ where. No matter where I turn, be it walking through the impressively large Kulm Hotel, grabbing dinner at the Kulm Country Club or taking the public escalators from the village down to the lake.

The heroic – or some would say crazy – bob riders on both the Olympia bob run and the Cresta Run that put St. Moritz on the map over 150 years ago by ­c reating brand-new winter sports – and the ice tunnels they required. And indeed, the Kulm has been the clubhouse of the Cresta Run crowd practically since its establishment in 1864. Founder Johannes B ­ adrutt, who gazes fondly from a number of paintings throughout «his» h ­ otel,

certainly wasn’t wrong when he boldly declared the Engadine one of Switzerland’s most beautiful ­winter destinations, boldly in the face of his (mostly British) clientele’s doubts. The amazing sunlight, both ­winter and summer, and St. Moritz’ ­location on a picturesque lake make points I don’t have the heart to argue. And why should I? I’m here on official duty: to make full use of the Kulm Hotel’s legendary spa!

For other hotel guests, the mountains are the reason for their stay – perhaps including a quick shopping trip at Prada, Hermès or Gucci. But for me, the draw of the 2,000 square metre Kulm Spa is more irresistible than any ­designer frock, so I slip into my hotel slippers and make my way 79

through the deceptively long hallways of the Kulm Hotel, straight to the ­exclusive Spa elevator. Upon ­arrival at the Spa, one is immediately greeted by a bird’s eye view of the impressive indoor swimming pool, as the treatment facilities and spa reception are located above the spa facilities. Airy, modern and ­deceptively minimalistic, the Kulm Spa has been designed according to a three-pillar wellness concept that unites «relaxation, detoxification and regeneration» – all while decelerating your body and mind. A plan I can absolutely get on board with, as it turns out.

Wellbeing is key here, both in the indulgently large indoor pool and the slightly warmer open-air pool. Both treat you to a ­fantastic view of the Kulm gardens, and the surrounding Alpine p ­ anorama.

It’s blissfully quiet this time of the morning, and I make full use of the serene mood while happily making my rounds through pools, saunas, steam baths and (brr!) even the icy-cold Kneipp therapy pools.

It’s so relaxing I forget to take pictures, much to my post-lockdown-physique’s relief.

Valmont of Switzerland has been setting standards in cell cosmetic expertise since 1985, but for

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WELLNESS

Contemplating life, love and the perfect cup of coffee while enjoying the amazing views.

the Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, it’s quite a new brand to offer their overwhelmingly international clientele. And somewhat surprisingly, as I’ve been a beauty editor for nearly 10 years, I was able to experience my very first Valmont facial in St. Moritz (see my «signature treatment tip»). I don’t want to drop any spoilers, but you may want to warn your significant other beforehand, as your unabashedly glowing complexion may cause extreme distraction later on.

If organic beauty is more your thing, then the Kulm Spa offers a selection of facial treatments by Pharmos Natur, a certified organic brand that focuses on 100% ­natural Aloe Vera… and if my mountainbiking husband is to be believed, the Kulm Signature Massage is just what one’s well-used hiking or b ­ iking muscles need after a day spent up on the mountain peaks surrounding St. Moritz. Not that I’d ever need the excuse of outdoor exercise to enjoy an indulgent day wrapped in a terrycloth robe!

All in all, my stay at the Kulm Hotel was an immersive ­experience, and a thoughtful lesson in what hospitality means in challenging times such as these. I r­ eluctantly pack my bags and return to the hustle and bustle of Zurich. But I’m pretty certain my gorgeous ­c omplexion has «The Top of the World» written all over it.

STEFFI’S SIGNATURE TREATMENT TIP

Valmont Energy Ritual Facial In this lovely anti-aging ritual, a triple cleanse with Valmont’s specialised cleansing balm, cream and foam is followed by a light enzyme peel and a surprisingly intense oxygen mask, which has a unique tingling, cold sensation on the skin.

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© Nikita Sibilev

– CHF 300 (90 min)

BEAUTY TIPS

LUXURY FROM HEAD TO TOE

Heeley Paris Zeste de ­Gingembre Eau de Parfum (100 ml) about CHF 140

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BEAUTY HIGHLIGHTS CURATED BY STEFFI HIDBER

3

T

his past summer has certainly put a lot of things in perspective, hasn’t it? I, for one, have a new-found ­a ppreciation for the beautiful country we get to live in, and learning to find joy in the smallest daily rituals is my credo when it comes to beauty. When they are as beautifully f­ ormulated as these new releases, I am sure you will discover that indulgence and selfcare can wonderfully complete each other – and make you look fabulous in the process.

1 – Beauty influencer Huda Kattan took four years to perfect the formula of her first mascara, but boy, was it worth the wait! This double-ended lash wonder creates an amazing, dramatic look.

2 – An intensive moisturising cream of unique lightness and deeply nourishing. Advanced ingredients and precious 24 k gold leaf flakes work synergetically like skin designers.

The illuminating effect is extraordinary.

3 – Taking luxury to a whole new level, namely: your teeth! Using the carefully formulated toothgel, which contains 23.75 carat pure gold dust will not only protect you from cavities, but leaves your smile refreshed and sparkling clean. A great present, too!

4 – The iconic story of Sisley’s anti-­aging masterpiece is entering a new, ­luxurious chapter this autumn: this 4-week transforming facecare programme promises to kickstart the skin cell’s vitality, for a transformed, refreshed look.

5 – Need a burst of energy? Look no ­further than «rebel» perfumer James H ­ eeley’s newest creation which offers a fresh burst of lime, natural ginger and sparkles of pink pepper and cardamom. Available in Z ­ urich at Süskind.

Swiss Smile d’Or toothgel and toothbrush CHF 99

Sisley Sisleya La Cure (4 x 10 ml) CHF 1,065

4

2 MBR Cream ­ xtraordinary with E ­illuminating 24 k gold (50 ml) CHF 430

1

Huda Beauty LEGIT Lashes mascara CHF 35.90

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FROM APÉRO TO DESSERT

INSPIRING HIGH QUALITY INGREDIENTS FOR CHEFS Patiswiss AG · Klärstrasse 1 · 4617 Gunzgen · T 062 209 66 1184

www.chefatwork.ch

lausanne mon amour WORDS CLAUDIO DEL PRINCIPE

TO

P

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© Lausanne city, Switzerland Tourism

Pocket-sized big, wide world Lausanne unites the flair of many large cities coupled with serene tranquillity. For instance, at the Café de l’Hôtel de Ville, with its pretty timber facade, nostalgic interior, and a terrace from which one can observe the passers-by, you might be in Paris. Imagine yourself in New York when admiring the instagrammable Le Pointu, a building that resembles the Flatiron Building. The cosy café inside is well-known for its delicious brunch. The colourful buildings along steep and narrow streets in the Rôtillon quarter are reminiscent of a Ligurian fishing village in Cinque Terre. Erected in 1898 in the Renaissance style, the Palais de Rumine radiates a touch of Florence, while its interior surprisingly reflects that of the Palace of Justice in Vienna. And then, of course, down by the lake, the harbour of Ouchy and secluded beaches capture a Mediterranean feeling. La vie est belle à Lausanne. On y va!

A bed of roses The chic Lausanne Palace is ideal for city slickers. It radiates grand hotel glamour, yet it exudes a sense of the familiar. Tip: have breakfast served in your room and enjoy the delightful view of Lake Geneva and the Alps. Would you like to be closer to water surrounded by first-class luxury? Immerse yourself in the perfect townand-country oasis provided by the BeauRivage Palace located in a unique parkland setting that includes a lavish spa. The impressive belle-epoque ensemble is one of the most beautiful grand hotels in Europe and provides an unforgettable stay replete with a renowned level of service.

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WINE AND DINE

LA VIENNOISE Brasserie Grand Chêne

Without a doubt the Brasserie Grand Chêne has the best Viennese schnitzel in town. Even in Vienna you’d be hard-pressed to find such a perfectly crumbed example of this ­delicious Austrian staple – coupled with a great atmosphere, perfect service, and suitable wine recommendations. lausanne-palace.ch

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10 A LIVING LEGEND Restaurant Hôtel de Ville

A SWEET TOOTH Blondel Chocolatier

This chocolatier has been an institution of sweet t­ emptation since 1850. The old-town building at 5 Rue de Bourg was ­carefully restored in 2019, while maintaining its charm and doll-house atmosphere. The choice is as enticing as it is ­complex: from infinite wonderful truffes to unusual ­combinations with yuzu, apricot and umeboshi.

Climb to the highest level of a gourmet’s quest only ten minutes from the city centre, the unique Restaurant Hôtel de Ville in Crissier is one of the world’s most exclusive haute-cuisine establishments. With a heart full of passion, chef Franck Giovannini brings to life the heritage of legendary master chefs Frédy Girardet, Philippe Rochat and Benôit Viollier. restaurantcrissier.com

blondel.ch

UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE Vineyards in Lavaux

Only 15 minutes from Lausanne centre, the unique vineyards of Lavaux extend south toward Vevey, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2007. The terraces were ­created by monks in the Middle Ages. Chasselas is the most frequent grape variety. Hike through picturesque wine-making villages, enjoy the breathtaking view of Lake Geneva and the mountains, and by no means miss a guided tour including a wine tasting. lavaux-unesco.ch

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GRANDE DAME Anne-Sophie Pic at the Beau Rivage Palace Hotel

The restaurant provides an­ experience of majestic splendour in one of Europe’s most impressive palace hotels. The French three-star chef’s Swiss restaurant is ­considered one of the most elegant in the country. The light dishes bewitch you with intense flavours and perfect craftsmanship. brp.ch

WINE AND DINE

THE KING OF CHASSELAS Domaine Louis Bovard

CASUAL CUISINE Tandem Restaurant, Bar & Jardin

Tandem in Vevey very quickly ­developed into a favourite hot-spot serving a selection of contemporary food. Tandem’s young chef, ­Joana Fernandes, is the cause of all the uproar. Trained by threestar chef Alain Passard at Arpège in Paris, careful craftsmanship and a love of regional and seasonal products characterise her cuisine.

Louis-Philippe Bovard represents the tenth generation at the Domaine Bovard in Cully. He carries the title of «Icon of Swiss Wine». No one has added more prestige to the Chasselas and the Lavaux region than Bovard. A visit on one of the many open wine days is definitely worthwhile. domainebovard.com

BOTTOMS UP! La Bavaria

This beautiful brasserie – called «Bav» by the locals – is quite an institution tracing its origins back some 140 years. Chef Geoffrey Romeas learned his craft from the legendary Bernard Ravet. The menu includes classical dishes like beef tartare and choucroute.

Owing to its Bavarian origins, Paulaner beer is one of the favourites.

tandemvevey.ch

labavaria.ch

COLOURFUL MARKET Marché de Lausanne SAY CHEESE La Pinte Besson

The market beckons every Wednesday and Saturday. Its location along Rue du Bourg, Place de la Palud and Place de la Riponne sets the tone: vegetable stands, speciality food vendors, cheese and even a flea market.

Chef Anne-Sophie Pic organises a particularly beautiful market at the end of August in the grounds of the Beau-Rivage Palace.

There are many traditional eateries in Lausanne offering a very good cheese fondue. None of them with a more authentic atmosphere than La Pinte Besson. Its narrow, woodpanelled interior with coloured glass and vaulted ceiling is the ideal place to sit around a fondue pot on a cold winter day. Of course, La Pinte serves other classical dishes, like Papet Vaudois.

lausanne.ch

pinte-besson.com

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From the Peruvian highlands into the cup: Nespresso’s Peru Organic allows coffee-lovers to experience new flavours.

This certified organic coffee also represents a milestone in the history of the company.

It brings the Nespresso Professional Origins range to a total of four varieties.

Tucked away in the remote slopes of the Peruvian Andes at altitudes ranging from 1,000 to over 2,000 metres, the climatic conditions are perfect for growing high-quality coffee. It is here that the Arabica beans are grown for the first certified organic coffee Nespresso offers its corporate customers. Peru Organic is a fruity, bold coffee, accentuated with a soft cereal note.

It owes its exceptional aroma profile to the high humidity of the subtropical highland climate – and, of course, to the dedicated care of the coffee farmers, who have passed on the knowledge of careful cultivation for generations. The beans are lightly roasted in two parts so that their unique flavour can unfold fully in the cup. This underlines the light and smooth character of the blend, while revealing its exotic fruitiness. Peru Organic is certified according to the guidelines of the independent Swiss certification body, bio-inspecta*.

Very rare, indeed: top-quality organic coffee The launch of a certified organic coffee is a milestone in the history of Nespresso.

Peru is one of the largest producers of high-quality organic coffee in the world. That is why Nespresso has been working with local farmers

in the Huabal region in the country's north-east since 2019. This cooperation grew out of the Nespresso AAA Sustainable Quality™ Program**. It ensures support for organic practices while maintaining the high quality of coffee for which Nespresso is renowned.

Nespresso Origins – a tribute to the best terroirs of the world Nespresso’s Peru Organic allows coffee-lovers to experience new flavours. The organic coffee extends the existing Origins range to a total of four distinctive varieties: Guatemala, Brazil, India and Peru Organic. What makes these coffees so special? Each comes from carefully selected areas within a single country of origin. The aromas of Origins coffees thus reflect the soils and the traditional cultivation, picking and processing methods of their countries of origin. Every coffeelover will find just the right flavour: India’s woody notes with hints of clove, nutmeg and pepper recall the plants that grow among the coffee trees of southern India. Brazil is a fine blend with notes of sweet cereal and roasted grains. Guatemala is an intense coffee with malty cereal notes, rounded off by a silky and mellow texture. All Origins coffees can be enjoyed pure or with milk.

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MORE INFORMATION

* BIO-INSPECTA bio.inspecta AG is an independent Swiss inspection and certification company that carries out recognised inspections and certifications for organic and branded products, such as Demeter or the Bud from Bio Suisse. ** NESPRESSO AAA SUSTAINABLE QUALITY™ PROGRAM Sustainability and a fair partnership with the coffee farmers are very important to Nespresso, as this is the only way to guarantee high coffee quality in the long term. This was the reason why Nespresso and the Rainforest Alliance founded the Nespresso AAA Sustainable Quality™ Program in 2003, which today supports more than 110,000 coffee farmers in 14 countries.

You can find more information at: nespresso.com

FEEL THE WINTER CURATED BY JASMIN BRUNNER

Happening pieces and gift inspirations for the cold season.

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Did you know that the hotel lobbies of St. Moritz’s luxurious grand hotels are open to everyone – almost every hour of the day and night?

They provide the perfect setting for a stylish afternoon tea in elegant surrounds.

Give cold necks a pass with the rectangular Fendi Roma cotton and linen stole; decorated with a graphic print and hand- drawn black Fendi Stamp.

– CHF 380, fendi.com

– carlton-st.moritz.ch

Certified vegan, Buckler’s heavy-duty formula treats and repairs weathered hands, feet, and ­elbows. Buckler’s Chapped Skin Remedy – CHF 17, bucklersremedy.com

Write your notes by hand again with the YStudio Brassing Desk Fountain Pen. – available from CHF 190 kohezi.comsum.ch

This Giraffe Chandelier has been on my wish list for a while now.

If you, just like me, don’t have high enough ceilings, opt for the outdoor version, or the XS one.

«Giraffe in Love» is a product born from the collaboration between artist/designer Marcantonio and Qeeboo.

– From CHF 2,800 (medium size) and CHF 430 (XS size), qeeboo.com

Exclusive silver chess and draughts set made of 925 sterling silver with a total weight of 3.8 kg.

– CHF 5,500 shop.degussagoldhandel.ch

The calfskin Chain Pouch by ­Bottega Veneta is timeless, simple, and ­beautiful, no more words needed.

– CHF 3,300, available on luisaviaroma.com

The Tondagraph GT is powered by the PF043 automatic calibre and combines two of watchmaking’s most useful complications – an annual calendar and a chronograph.

– CHF 19,500, parmigiani.ch

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Acqua di Parma’s gift packages feature an illustration by Chinese artist Oamul devoted to the holiday season.

– CHF 300, available on acuqadiparma.com or at Jelmoli Zurich

Once again, it was Johannes and Caspar Badrutt who provided and financed the first Cresta Run in 1884.

They had only one condition: the club had to be run by a Briton!

TRENDS LIFESTYLE

Scarf in 100% cashmere and lambskin, 30x140 cm.

RESPECT RECIRCLE REAWAKE – Shop a lovingly curated selection of high-end second hand & vintage treasures from Hermès, Chanel, Louis Vuitton… at REAWAKE – located in Jelmoli Department Store on Bahnhofstrasse Zurich. REAWAKE supports extending the lifecycle of high-quality products and, hence, consuming sustainably.

– CHF 1,150, hermes.com

Bring some light to grey winter days with the Big Sun Circle Earrings in 9ct gold, and 925 sterling silver by Swiss ­Jewellery House Marburger.

– reawake.ch

– CHF 690 marburger.ch

Attention to detail and outstanding performance are the core of Bang & Olufsen’s design language and give the Beoplay H95 its calm confident personality.

– CHF 900, bang-olufsen.com

Sneaker BOUNCING in mottled technical canvas and suede goatskin.

Leggybuddy create and carefully craft products with a soul, made to last and cherish for many years to come as a memory of early childhood.

– CHF 740, hermes.com

– CHF 159, leggybuddy.com

The Museo d’arte della Svizzera italiana pays homage to Hans Josephsohn on the occasion of the centenary of his birth presenting a selection of brass works produced between 1950 and 2006.

Italian design duo CTRLZAK create objects and spaces revolving around art following meaning.

The domestic natural camouflage carpets in three colours are designed in a traditional rug style whilst emphasising the need to reconnect with nature.

– Available in customisable sizes, round and square, from CHF 2,080, www.agentur-style-yourhome.ch or www.yoyo-designs.com

– 19.09.20 to 21.02.21 masilugano.ch

Converting kinetic energy into tranquillity is physically impossible, but this is exactly the purpose of the «Pan rocking chair» made by Garpa. A gentle swinging motion induces a deep feeling of restfulness.

– CHF 1,125, garpa.ch

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1 — In Survetta House, guests can enjoy afternoon tea over a game of bridge in the lobby of this grand hotel, where a pianist provides live musical accompaniment and, during peak season, a world-champion bridge player is on hand to offer guests a few insider tips 2 — Immerse yourself in the picture and travel back to the origins of peace and strength.

These breathtaking peaks have existed for much longer than we have, and they will continue to impress many generations to come.

They are stronger than everything we as human beings have ever created. The picture of Lago Bianco is part of the Swiss Peaks series created by photographer Nico Schaerer – nuvu galleries Zurich and Flims, nuvu.ch

ADVERTORIAL

the swiss smile Wellness in dental care is the new luxury. Swiss Smile offers you simple beauty rituals to transform your dental care tasks into moments of bliss. Read on and learn directly from the Swiss Smile Headquarter team how you can embrace dental wellness in your everyday life.

We are delighted to hear about Swiss Smile.

Can you tell us more about it? Swiss Smile combines clinical expertise with timeless design, using nothing but the finest of ingredients and materials. Its gift sets are popular with luxury hotels, and its brushes and toothpastes with those who see oral hygiene as a ritual of wellness. Swiss Smile differs from other oral health care brands by its abolute commitment to offer you the best dental care formulae in combination with a simple stepby-step approach to dental care transforming morning and evening routines in moments of bliss. We are the leading luxury brand in the dental beauty category, being globally active in many countries worldwide.

How did it all start? The brand started first with the internationally awarded Swiss Smile dental clinics offering the whole spectrum of oral care in Switzerland by renowned specialists. Being accustomed to high-end treatments, Swiss Smile clients also asked for state-of-the-

art products. Since the Swiss Smile Clinic Team was challenged in finding suitable products that would satisfy their demands, they realised that they had to develop their own product line. This is why, together with Curaden, they created this unique portfolio.

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following: brushing habits, mouth, teeth, tongue, throat, jaw, cheeks and neck.

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This whitening ritual set offers you a two step approach. First step: Smooth whitening cleansing thanks to the diamond dust toothpaste. Second step: Protect your teeth with the finely pored dental foam.

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AL FRED HITCH COCK a love story

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WORDS MARTIN HOCH PHOTOS CAROLINE KRAJCIR

Alfred Hitchcock, the master of suspense, had two loves in his life, and he remained faithful to both. In 1926, he married Alma Reville and lived with her until his death. The couple spent their honeymoon at Badrutt’s ­Palace in St. Moritz. One may consider the hotel and its surroundings to be his second home. «I am a creature of h ­ abit,» Bunte Illustrierte, the German illustrated weekly, quoted him as saying in 1926. «Nearly every villain stubbornly sticks to his methods. I am also stubborn – in my recreation. I returned to Badrutt’s Palace regularly for 36 years, and every time to the same room. I love the view from the balcony.»

© Badrutt’s Palace Hotel Archive, Photo: Olaf Küng

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© Badrutt’s Palace Hotel Archive, Photo: Friedel

1 — Alfred Hitchcock with his daughter,­ Patricia Hitchcock 2 — View from Le Grand Hall across the Engadine valley 3 — Andrea Badrutt with Alfred Hitchcock

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oom 501 in Badrutt’s Palace was Hitchcock’s second home.

Here is where he found peace in the intimacy of the family-run hotel in the absence of all the hustle and bustle. And thanks to another circumstance: it is interesting to note that the Engadine valley is similarly complex as the filmmaker himself was. A mirror of his personality. A landscape in which the master found himself. When the sun shines, the lake glistens, and the landscape wraps itself in the much-invoked unique light of the high mountain valley, Engadine presents itself from its gentle side. Very likely, Hitchcock was someone who could take an extended bath in nature’s mood. Who loved such days in the lap of the cheerful, dreamlike hotel. He was sociable. He had a sense of humour. He was someone who enjoyed a joke and revelled in a mischievous trick, wrote Hans Rudolf Haller in the Neue Zürcher Zeitung.

THE HITCHCOCK STORY

The Swiss alps, especially, impressed the man who gave us the shivers in his films, such as «Vertigo», «The Birds» and «Psycho». He was impressed by the high mountains, «because from up there,» he cunningly declared, «you can easily push someone to his death,» and by the deep mountain lakes, he chuckled, «because you can drown someone so wonderfully in them».

– From a conversation between Jack Starck and Alfred Hitchcock, 28 September 1972, Hotel Baur au Lac, Zurich.

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As mentioned, the region can have many facets. Often, Hitchcock would sit for hours in front of the hotel’s large windows. And here his dark thoughts will have found sustenance.

During the darkest of cloudy days. When wild winds raged across the frozen lake. On dark days, when even the snow doesn’t reflect the light, one can imagine how he would sit at his heavy wooden desk in room 501, the Piz Mezdi mountain on the opposite side exerting its archaic dominance, how he fought with his soul, with the small painted grimaces on the tiled stove keeping a wary eye on him. When the cheerful hotel turned into a mystical castle in his thoughts. We don’t know what went through Hitchcock’s mind in days like that.

But his work gives us sufficient clues – his films about fear, guilt and atonement, full of suspense and deep abysses. It can be assumed that his days at the Badrutt’s Palace significantly characterised his work. Hitchcock did not only write stories, he wrote history: movie history. And Badrutt’s Palace played a leading role in his life.

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1 — Alfred Hitchcock and his wife, Alma Reville 2 — Alfred Hitchcock and Aniko Badrutt 3 — Le Grand Hall: focal point of the Badrutt’s Palace

© Badrutt’s Palace Hotel Archive, Photo: Olaf Küng

© Badrutt’s Palace Hotel Archive, Photo: Olaf Küng

THE HITCHCOCK STORY

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5 questions

RICHARD LEUENBERGER Managing Director, Badrutt’s Palace WORDS MARTIN HOCH PHOTO NICO SCHAERER

You manage a palace. Which role suits you better, that of a king or that of a butler? The role of a butler. Primarily, a Managing Director is a host, and that requires humility. And even though my title is Managing Director, I am always a waiter and a receptionist.

People say you are an optimistic person with a sense of humour. Optimism and a healthy portion of light-heartedness are essential. Our guests visit Badrutt’s Palace to enjoy themselves, and they hope to spend a joyful time at the hotel.

It doesn’t do any harm when you yourself radiate a sense of fun.

The roots of Badrutt’s Palace run deep. Is that a disadvantage when trying to feel the pulse of time? On the contrary, guests are looking for authenticity. Being a hotel with a history is one thing we don’t have to create, nor Engadine’s pristine nature.

With this combination, we’re playing at a top level internationally.

To what extent can you, as Managing Director, contribute innovation to a hotel with so much tradition? Courage to introduce change is growing increasingly important. Pioneering spirit is in the Badrutt’s Palace DNA. There are numerous examples of innovation, such as transitioning to using water from the lake to provide heat for the building, reducing our heating oil consumption by 40 per cent. Here, I always find support for my ideas. As a hotel, we stay in touch with our guests by means of WhatsApp, WeChat and other services, which today represent more than half of our guest communications. We react to requests within less than one minute. It’s a conscious decision to make use of the platforms which our guests communicate on.

Where will the journey take you in the future? In addition to all of the innovation, we wish to remain a place where people meet, and where they connect with fun, festivities and vacations.

A truly unique place.

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OSKAR

and the Oskar goes to …

A Labrador in a luxury hotel: author Titus Arnu and his dog were guests at Badrutt’s Palace. A very special hotel with friendly canine benefits.

WORDS TITUS ARNU PHOTOS ENNO KAPITZA

As the owner of a Labrador retriever, one is always prepared for petty food theft. These animals eat practically everything that is not locked up or tied down. They cannot walk past a dining table without being tempted to snatch a piece of bread, a slice of sausage, or a wedge of cheese, preferably all of it at once. The cheekiest thing that my dog did was to steal an entire raw trout lying next to the stove, ready to be fried.

All I had done was briefly run in the garden to cut a handful of herbs. When I returned, I just managed to see a tail fin disappear down Oskar’s throat.

Oskar is a master thief. He can smell a treat from two kilometres against the wind, he is fast and strong, and well fed. His jet-black coat shines like silk, probably as a result of his healthy diet consisting of raw fish and 105

other delicacies originally purchased for his owners. He would be a successful draught animal in skijoring or a member of an avalanche searchand-rescue-dog team, but he is definitely not a lap dog you could hide in a handbag.

Now, however, he has got to show off his best side, because we are checking in at one of Switzerland’s top-rated hotels, Badrutt’s Palace in St. Moritz.

Oskar, heel! And, more than anything else, keep your paws and your snout off the food. As a start, we try to enter the foyer as elegantly and accident-free as possible. Before we get to the entrance, however, small piles of snow sit to the left and the right, and Oskar lifts his leg and puts down a brawny mark. After all, this is his first time in the area, and he has to leave a clear signal for the

OSKAR

local dog community. The porters watch the goings-on and smile. These well-trained professionals will undoubtedly discreetly wipe away the yellow spot later.

A porter’s responsibilities include packing and unpacking luggage, parking cars and running errands in the hotel. Oskar is being welcomed by Patron, a four-year-old, chocolate-brown male Labrador, who wears a chic leather collar decorated with shinygold cows. His owner’s name is Richard Leuenberger, the General Manager. Patron and Oskar get on well right from the start. Perhaps Patron barks into Oskar’s ear in Labradorian that the storage room is filled to the brim with salmon, cured meat, legs of veal, cheese and other delicacies, and that the loot would easily be sufficient to satisfy the two of them.

At check-in, Oskar is given a pendant for his collar, a stylised little tower of Badrutt’s Palace to identify him as a hotel guest. In the room, everything Oskar might need has been put out: dog bed, feeding bowl, a gift bag containing goodies, and plastic bags to collect dog droppings on a walk outside. Oskar feels comfortable in the room, especially when he realises that his owner brought along a bag filled with dried dog food. Before dinner we take a walk. Directly next to the hotel, a long, steep flight of steps leads down to Lake St. Moritz. Cross-country skiers glide across the frozen lake, walkers with fur hats on their heads raise their nose to catch the sun. The view shifts to the snow-covered mountaintops of the Upper Engadine: Piz Surlej, Piz Lunghin, Corvatsch. From somewhere in the distance, one can hear the jingle of a horse-drawn sleigh. Oskar runs through the dreamy landscape and fumes like a little steam engine.

Labradors love snow. Their fur is dense and short, their paws are hardly sensitive to cold temperatures. I often take Oskar on ski trips, sometimes go dog sledding with him, and I let him pull me on my cross-country skis. We also enjoy taking long winter hikes.

St. Moritz is ideal for such sports activities, and most of these sports can

be embarked on right from the hotel.

Signposted dog cross-country trails connect La Punt, Zuoz, and S-chanf, a few kilometres down the Inn valley.

After a while on the lake, we decide to return to the hotel, where several amenities await us – including Oskar’s new friend, Patron.

In the «Grand Hall», Oskar’s claws click on the marble floor. The high ceilings, antique furniture and paintings on the walls are impressive – but not for Oskar. He is more fascinated by the pastries which he can smell here. Afternoon tea at Badrutt’s Palace is legend. Guests can choose from 28 different kinds of tea, finger food is served on tiered cake stands – sandwiches, scones with jam and cream, and an assortment of pastries. I try to explain to Oskar that this is finger food and not paw food. He rejects my explanation, which he shows in his body language, so I take him to our room. Dogs are permitted in the Grand Hall if they behave, but not in the restaurant. Oskar is not permitted to join me in the swimming pool either, although Labradors are known to love water. But that would be too much of a good thing.

´It seems, Oskar wouldn’t mind staying at the Palace forever.´ Later, we meet Patron and his owner in the Hall. In principle, Managing Director Leuenberger welcomes dogs at the Palace, regardless of whether they are Chihuahua or Irish Wolfhounds, although no longer in the bar following an incident in which both dogs and guests were injured. Leuenberger lives in the hotel with his family, directly adjacent to the kitchen which, of course, is an ideal location from a Labrador’s perspective. One can order dog food from room service, ranging from uncooked vegetarian to fresh trout and fillet steak. Hansjörg Badrutt, the 106

OSKAR

´After only one weekend in St. Moritz, Oskar is known all over town.´

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former hotel owner, coined the saying: «When there are dogs in the hotel, times are good because people can afford them».

It seems, Oskar would not mind staying at the Palace forever. He lies comfortably on the carpet of the Grand Hall with his friend, Patron, probably dreaming of an invitation to dinner. Unfortunately, after two nights at Badrutt’s Dog Palace, the final farewell is nearing. In style, of course. In other words, bye-bye – heel! A black Rolls Royce is parked outside the hotel, and the colour suits Oskar’s. Ezio Colturio, one of the porters, opens the rear door and lets Oskar climb in first, for a souvenir photo. The Rolls Royce Phantom was built in 1966 and belonged to the British Royal Family. It is very likely that Queen Elizabeth’s Corgis were driven to and from the royal residences in this car. Colturio is extremely courteous, even to dogs, and Oskar obviously feels comfortable in the rear of the luxury saloon. He poses for the camera and presents his best side. Tourists stop, point to the presumed pampered Labrador, and film the scene. Against the backdrop of the black Phantom, black fur optically turns into a phantom itself. Nevertheless, it can be noted: after only one weekend in St. Moritz, Oskar is known all over town.

the valley of charm an excursion to the lower Engadine

9AM FUN ON BLADES

A refreshing start to the day. In Sur En close to the villages of Scuol and Sent, a three-­ kilometre ice-skating path meanders in a loop through the enchanted conifer forest along the River Inn. The experience is suitable as much for beginners as for skilled ice skaters.

The ice route trails conveniently at mostly flat elevation, yet at times at the edge of a slope the skating collects speed. The forest plays its quiet charm, and every now and then the sun throws a ray of light through a tight network of green branches.

ICE SKATING — SUR EN, ICE SKATES & HELMET RENTALS, T. +41 81 860 09 09, EISWEG-ENGADIN.CH

WORDS MARTIN HOCH PHOTOS NICO SCHAERER

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EXPERIENCE OF NATURE

10.30AM SNOW UNDER YOUR FEET

With warmed-up muscles, the fun can ­continue. Take a cable car in Scuol high up to Motta Naluns. From there, a winter hiking trail takes you to Prui and on to the village of Ftan located on a wide and sunny escarpment. En route, enjoy lunch at Prümaran Prui, an unspoiled mountain restaurant. For everyone who enjoys speed, a 3.5-kilometre toboggan runs from Prui to Ftan.

WINTER HIKE & LUNCH — A SIGNPOSTED HIKING ROUTE, ALTERNATIVELY, A CHAIR LIFT TO THE VALLEY FLOOR CAN BE TAKEN FROM PRUI MOTTA NALUNS – PRUI: 1.5 KM, ABOUT 30 MINUTES’ HIKE MOTTA NALUNS – FTAN, 3.5 KM, ABOUT 90 MINUTES’ HIKE BERGBAHNEN-SCUOL.CH

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1PM BATHING IN MINERAL SPRING WATER

Back in Scuol, the cultural and relaxation part of the day begins. Take a walk through Scuol with its impressive, historical buildings.

One should take a sip of natural spring water from one of the fountains in the village. Each fountain is fed by one of about 20 mineralwater springs. A bath in mineral water can be had at the Bogn Engiadina with several inside and outside bathing options. Don’t miss Hatecke, an upmarket butcher’s shop, that displays meat products as if they were pieces of art.

MARVEL AND ENJOY — INFORMATION ON TOURIST ­ACTIVITIES: SCUOL-ZERNEZ.ENGADIN.COM BUTCHER HATECKE: HATECKE.CH MINERAL WATER BATH: BOGNENGIADINA.CH

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3PM ARTISTIC CASTLE TOUR

Tarasp Castle, owned by internationally renowned artist Not Vital, beckons.

On a guided tour, walk through historic halls and the former bedchambers of royalty.

It’s well worth viewing the myriad artistic and historic details. Works of art, some by Not Vital, displayed in the building are of particular interest. One room houses Europe’s largest organ in private ownership which is still in occasional use.

TOURS AND EVENTS — INFORMATION ON GUIDED TOURS AND EVENTS: NOTVITAL.CH

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EXPERIENCE OF NATURE

4PM SWEET SEDUCTION IN LAVIN

It’s difficult to say who in the region bakes the best Engadine nut cake. Bäckerei ­Giacometti in the small and pretty village of Lavin ­definitely serves an outstanding nut cake ­baked according to an old family recipe.

Best to decide yourself. Visit the old coffee shop and order a cup of your favourite beverage.

COFFEE AND NUT CAKE — SUZÖL 22 (ON THE MARKET SQUARE), LAVIN GIACOMETTI-LAVIN.CH

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7PM A VISIT TO SCHELLEN-URSLI

Everybody knows Heidi, the Swiss girl from the mountains of Grisons. Schellen-Ursli, a little mountain boy, is less well-known outside Switzerland, although the story is equally fascinating. Written by Selina Chönz and illustrated by Alois Carigiet, the story takes place in small but appealing Guarda, a village full of traditional and attractive Engadinestyle buildings. Outstanding Grisons specialities, from barley soup to capuns, served at ­nostalgic restaurant Crusch Alba.

DINNER — RESTAURANT CRUSCH ALBA, CHANT DA LA SIGNURA 45, GUARDA T. +41 81 860 16 16, CRUSCHALBAGUARDA.CH

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it all started with a bet © Flying skier, vintageskiworld.com

WORDS ALEX KUEHN PHOTOS KULM HOTEL ST. MORITZ

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HISTORY

St. Moritz owes its global significance as a winter sport ­resort to its breath-­ taking ­location in the ­mountains – and a ­clever ­hotel owner.

We turn our eyes to September of the year 1864: Johannes Badrutt, owner of the Kulm Hotel in St. Moritz, has joined the last of his summer guests from the United Kingdom and enthusiastically regales them with his account of the splendour of winter in Engadine. As the six Britons consider his narrative exaggerated, Badrutt offers them a wager. Should the number of sunny days not make their stay unforgettable, he would cover their travel expenses.

The sceptical guests returned in winter, remained until Easter and subsequently spread the word at home. The foundation of a veritable boom had been established from which clever Johannes Badrutt benefited greatly.

Even if the details of this story may be somewhat exaggerated, St. Moritz definitely has become one of the most significant cradles of winter sport. Twice, in 1928 and in 1948, the scenic village of St. Moritz hosted the Olympic Winter Games. In this connection, the trail of the story also leads to the location of the Kulm Hotel, in fact, to the Kulm Country Club, which was renovated in 2016 in accordance with plans drawn up by the renowned British architect, Lord Foster. The location, which includes a large ice rink, served as the site for the figure skating competition of the Olympic Games in 1928.

Of course, Heinz E. Hunkeler, General Manager of the Kulm Hotel since 2013, is proud of the historic location of his hotel, and says: «Which other hotel can claim to have hosted Olympic competitions twice?»

When Hunkeler took on his present position in St. Moritz, he dreamed of breathing new life into the Country Club. Thanks to the generous commitment of the Niarchos family,

Johannes Badrutt promised some of his British guests that, in addition to the gorgeous summers, winter in St. Moritz was so pleasant that on clear days you could enjoy the sunshine on the terrace without wearing a jacket. If he turned out to be wrong, the hotelier said he would pay their travel costs and accommodation.

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´Which other hotel can claim to have ­hosted Olympic ­competitions twice?´ which owns the Kulm and made available 10 million Swiss francs for the project, his dream is now a reality.

There is more winter sports tradition in and around the Kulm Hotel. The start of the legendary Cresta Run is only a short walk from the hotel. The natural-ice channel measures 1,214 metres in length and is constructed anew every year. With a difference in its altitude of 157 metres and at top speeds of 140 kilometres per hour, mastering this channel requires a great deal of courage and considerable skill. «Jumping head-first into the ice channel gives you a queasy feeling in your stomach,» says Heinz E. Hunkeler, who has mastered this test of athletic prowess several times. Recently, he has focused on his role as host at the Sunny Bar, the meeting point of Cresta tobogganers at the Kulm Hotel.

«When there’s a new winner in the race for the sought-after Morgan Cup, the champion must fill the cup with champagne,» and as Hunkeler notes, the custom is rather profitable for his hotel. After all, the contents of the cup amount to no less than twenty-nineand-a-half bottles. Cresta Run and Sunny Bar attract not only the members of the St. Moritz Tobogganing Club founded in 1887. Here, there is quite a lot to be seen and heard: photographs and trophy cups that bear witness to the Club’s tradition and, mainly, the daredevil athletes themselves who have been known to tell one or two true and perhaps not entirely true tales of their daring exploits.

While the ice fascinated the masses during the pioneering years, in the second quarter of the 20th century, St. Moritz became a globally acknowledged and highly regarded skiing destination. Including the 1948 Olympic Games, the resort has organised Alpine world competitions five times. Heinz E. Hunkeler has very special memories of the 2017 FIS Alpine World Ski Championships:

«Before the medal ceremonies, the medallists gathered in our hotel and signed the helmets of my three children. I’m sure you can image the gleam in their eyes.»

These days were memorable for the Swiss athletes too. Beat Feuz was victorious downhill, Luca Aerni and Wendy Holdener won the combination run. Holdener, in addition, secured a silver medal in slalom. Lara Gut, whose star rose in 2008 with a victory in the World Cup Super-G in St. Moritz, won bronze in the second speed discipline. In addition, combination medals were won by Michelle Gisin (silver) and Mauro Caviezel (bronze).

Faithful winter guests, who return to the mountains year after year, nourish the legend of St. Moritz. The glitterati are as much a part of the resort as is the breathtakingly beautiful nature. For many years, the legendary playboy, artist and sports enthusiast Gunter Sachs was a regular visitor. In honour of the loyalty shown toward the resort, the square above the bobsled run was named after him.

Anyone who would like to race down the St. Moritz bobsled run, the scene of 22 world championships, can do so with an experienced driver during a so-called taxi run. «An exhilarating experience that I can recommend whole-heartedly,» says Heinz E. Hunkeler. And in what other way might the hotel General Manager spend a day doing sport? «With curling outside the Country Club, with ice fishing or snow kiting, for instance. And if you’d like to immerse yourself deep in nature, I’d recommend a ski tour in the unspoiled Diavolezza-Bernina region.»

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Entrance hall Kulm Hotel with Cresta sledges at the Portier desk. Picture dating back to around 1890, taken by Elizabeth Main, one of the few female ­alpinists of that time.

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swiss top events

Magic moments at unique places

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Swiss Top Events ­members distinguish themselves by setting high quality ­standards, having a dynamic approach to innovation and their ability to get perfection out of creative chaos. They pursue powerful visions.

Their creativity, ­passion, and positive energy are palpable at every event. Join us on a tour of this very prestigious league of cultural and sports highlights – unique, thrilling and of Swiss origin, just like the Swiss Deluxe Hotels.

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all events The New York Times dubbed it the «Art Olympics», Vogue called it «the most beautiful temporary museum in the world», and Le Monde simply hailed it as «the best in the world».

Art Basel, the premier international art show, attracts and inspires art lovers from across the globe year after year.

In January 2021 the 91st International Lauberhorn Races will be held in Wengen in the beautiful Bernese Oberland. The world’s best Alpine skiers will compete in the Alpine Combined on Friday, on the legendary downhill slope on Saturday, and in the Slalom on Sunday.

The Montreux Jazz Festival has become an essential event over the years, generating fantastic stories and legendary performances. With its intimate ambiance and the quality of its hospitality, it offers a unique experience for artists and public alike.

The Omega European Masters, which takes place in Crans-Montana (VS), has just celebrated its 80th anniversary and still offers its 50,000 spectators magical moments in a breathtaking Alpine environment. Pro golfers from all over the world come to compete in the most stunning setting of the European Tour schedule.

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The largest classical music festival in Switzerland is one of the leading music promoters worldwide.

The summer festival’s distinctive programme presents internationally famous orchestras, conductors, and soloists and also encompasses contemporary music, support for young artists, and the development of innovative concert formats.

When Olympic champions line up against ­world champions, athletics legends, and shooting stars. When 25,000 track & field fans barely dare to blink for fear of missing the narrow outcome of a close finish, the record jump, or the new world leading throw.

When athletes and spectators are under the spell of that unmistakable Letzigrund buzz, Welt­klasse Zürich is underway.

Noble thorough­breds from every corner of Europe, international jockeys and the traditional skijoring events enthral guests from all over the world. On three race Sundays, around 30,000 spectators converge on the frozen Lake St. Moritz to witness the horseraces with the highest prize money in Switzerland, all held in front of a unique Alpine backdrop.

Over the course of its seventy-year history the Locarno Film Festival has turned its host town into the eye and stage of international auteur cinema. For eleven days, in August, the shores of Lake Maggiore become the home and screen of the film industry.

CALENDER AND DATES

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SWISS TOP EVENTS

January 2021, 15 – 17

February 2022, 6, 13 & 20

June 2021, 17 – 20

July 2021, 2 – 17

FIS SKI WORLD CUP LAUBERHORN WENGEN

WHITE TURF ST. MORITZ

ART BASEL

MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL

On January 15–17, 2021, the world’s best Alpine ski athletes will compete on the Lauberhorn in the three disciplines Alpine combined, downhill, and slalom. In front of the breathtaking views of the Bernese mountain peaks Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau, the Swiss slalom stars Daniel Yule, Ramon Zenhäusern, and Loic Meillard will try to present a Swiss winner in Wengen once again.

In the Lauberhorn downhill race, Beat Feuz will be the man to beat. Due to the current situation with COVID-19, the OC Lauberhorn decided in agreement with Swiss-Ski to hold the 91st Int. Lauberhorn Races 2021 without spectator and hospitality offers on site.

Founded in 1970 by gallerists from Basel, Art Basel today stages the world’s premier art shows for modern and contemporary art, bringing the international art world together. The Basel show features over 250 leading galleries from five continents, showing works by over 4,000 artists, ranging from modern masters to the latest emerging stars. Combined with stellar exhibitions and art events offered by local cultural institutions, each edition of Art Basel creates an exciting region-wide art week for artists, collectors, curators, critics, and connoisseurs.

What started as a pioneering achievement and visionar y idea among equestrian sport enthusiasts in 1907, today occupies a very significant position in the international racing calendar. The fascination for the only horserace in the whole world to be held on a frozen lake has prevailed for generations. With the traditional skijoring, the races with the highest prize money purses in Switzerland and a fringe programme featuring music and fine food, White Turf will once again draw VIPs from around the world, locals, urbanites, families, and horse lovers to St. Moritz on the first three weekends in February.

artbasel.com

whiteturf.ch

Montreux Jazz Festival is held annually across two weeks in July and draws 250,000 music lovers from all across the world.

Nestled between the Alps and Lake Geneva, minutes from the terraced vineyards of Lavaux, the Festival’s setting is truly exceptional. Created in 1967 by Claude Nobs, the Montreux Jazz Festival has become a landmark event over the years, generating fantastic stories and legendary performances. Originally a pure jazz festival, Montreux began showcasing other styles of music early and today presents artists from every genre. With its ambitious programming choices, its intimate ambiance, and the quality of its hospitality, the Montreux Jazz Festival offers a unique experience for artists and public alike. montreuxjazzfestival.com

lauberhorn.ch

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August 2021, 4 – 14

September 2021, 8 – 10

March 2021, 26 – 28

August 2021, 26 – 29

LOCARNO FILM FESTIVAL

WELT­ KLASSE ZÜRICH

August 13 – September 12, 2021

In Locarno, thousands of film lovers have the chance to grow alongside the works that the festival offers and promotes each year. Visitors can view these films in a small cinema or as part of a crowd of 8,000 in Piazza Grande, one of the largest open-air venues in the world. Locarno is the meeting point of seasoned filmmakers and people who dream of becoming the stars of tomorrow. Throughout its over 70-years history, Locarno has played host to legends such as Marlene Dietrich and Anthony Hopkins, beloved performers like Hilary Swank and Ethan Hawke, strong minds such as Ken Loach and Werner Herzog. These unforgettable faces blend in with those of a family of thousands of film lovers, who meet in the same spot every year.

Olympic champions, world record holders, European and world champions: no track & field meeting in the world celebrates national and international athletics with more illustrious line-ups and extraordinary moments. No other meeting in the world treats its audience to larger numbers of stars and competitions, and to more excitement than Weltklasse Zürich. «Never stop getting better!» True to its motto, the much-loved Zurich event is about to enter new spheres: Weltklasse Zürich will host the prestigious Wanda Diamond League final events in 2021 and 2022. Athletes and fans are in for a whole new Weltklasse experience: three days of competitions and three venues – the city’s famous Sechseläutenplatz, the majestic ticket hall of Zurich Main Station, and the iconic Letzigrund Stadium.

OMEGA EUROPEAN MASTERS CRANSMONTANA

locarnofestival.ch

November 2021, 19 – 21

LUCERNE FESTIVAL Lucerne Festival is one of the leading international festivals for classical music and presents some 100 concerts each summer between mid-August and mid-September. Coming to Lucerne to perform every year are the most acclaimed symphony orchestras in the world – such as the Berlin and Vienna Philharmonic – and star soloists such as Anne-Sophie Mutter and Martha Argerich. The Lucerne Festival Orchestra attracts internationally renowned orchestral musicians to Lucerne. As part of a network called Lucerne Festival Alumni, former participants in the Academy have an ongoing impact both in Lucerne and around the world through their high-quality concert projects. lucernefestival.ch

The Omega European Masters is one of the most prestigious golf competitions played on European soil. Located at CransMontana 1,500 metres above sea level in the heart of the Swiss Alps, the Crans-sur-Sierre Golf-Club is indisputably the most spectacular golf course on the European Tour schedule. The 2019 edition of the Omega European Masters was exceptional from start to finish. It attracted 64,800 visitors from 26 different countries, a record. And the presence of Rory McIlroy, now world No. 1 and winner of the FedEx Cup in 2019, was a real opportunity. He gave fantastic publicity, and it was a great way to celebrate the tournament’s 80th anniversary (1939–2019)! omegaeuropeanmasters.com

weltklassezuerich.ch CALENDER AND DATES

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WHITE TURF

In 1907, an exclusive international event took place on Lake St. Moritz for the first time. Now, carried out every year, White Turf is one of Switzerland’s top events. Horses and jockeys from all corners of the globe compete on the frozen lake. It’s a place to enjoy a stroll, clink glasses with friends and acquaintances, to see and be seen – a small, elegant world filled with energy, passion and leisure.

WHITE TURF ST. MORITZ LIKE A FAIRY TALE WORDS MARTIN HOCH

Everything has its own rhythm.

There is a time for everything. Day turns to night. The earth circles the sun. Autumn turns into winter.

High tide follows low tide. Similarly, the racing days at White Turf in St. Moritz enjoy their own rhythm.

It changes every half hour. At every full and every half hour, hundreds of visitors pour out of the VIP tents and relocate to the grandstands or the rails of the racecourse. Jockeys warm up with their horses. Bets are made. Tension rises. Shortly before the start you can hear a pin drop.

The opening of the start boxes unleashes untamed energy. A murmur goes through the stands. At the rails, spectators cheer on the jockeys and their horses. Jubilation breaks out. The winner is named.

Then, everyone returns to the tents. Laughter, chatter and clinking of champagne glasses abounds.

And then, again, everyone pours out of the VIP tents and returns to the rails of the racecourse.

Everything has its own rhythm.

There is a time for everything. Day turns to night. For guests at the Carlton Hotel St. Moritz, night becomes a fairy-tale experience. Each of the 60 suites faces south with a view of the lake. The evening sky over the opposite mountain range is turning violet and orange, and from the window you can observe last-minute preparations for White Turf on the frozen lake. Each suite is decorated in a different way, colourfully and in a wide range of fabrics. Chic and dreamy, entirely in agreement with the distinctive style of the designer, Carlo Rampazzi.

His motto is: when on vacation, if you expect the same drab interior as at home, why not stay home in the first place? However, if you decide to take time out at a five-star hotel, you should be enchanted and feel the magic. Like in a fairy tale, time to feel like a king or queen.

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1 — Jockeys from all over the world compete for victory 2 — Freshly rinsed, smoothed and brushed – careful preparation is indispensable 3 — Spectators watch the races glued to their seats

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WHITE TURF

VALERIA WALTHER

© Marek Sekáč

WORDS MARTIN HOCH

Valeria Walther participated for the first time in a White Turf skijoring race in St. Moritz at the age of 18. In this discipline, horsewomen stand on skis and are pulled by the horse across the racecourse on a rope.

The start is ­explosive, and fights for position are tough. In 2019, 21-yearold Valeria won a silver medal. Next year, the native from neighbouring Pontresina will fight for a place on the podium for the sixth time in a row.

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What kind of person are you? I am addicted to adrenaline. Next to horse riding, I love riding my motorbike.

Moreover, I have a zest for life, I enjoy the moment, and I’m grateful for everything I experience, and I look forward to everything to come.

In skijoring, you are pulled on skis across the racecourse by wildly galloping horses. That surely takes a lot of courage. I admit, skijoring is a little crazy. However, the amount of adrenaline that flows through your body during a race is so enormous that it blanks out everything else. At that moment, all I perceive is the powerful energy of the horses, the snow that splashes through the air, and the tension of the spectators.

When the boxes open and the horses start to gallop, that is an exhilarating moment for any spectator. How do you experience it? The moment shortly before the start box opens is the most intense. My pulse feels like it is at 700 bpm. Then I hear 3, 2, 1 and a shot, the doors fly open, the horses leap forward, and for the duration of a second you can see almost nothing. The task then is to find my place in the pack as quickly as possible. Where is my horse going, what’s happening to the left and to the right?

These are decisive seconds.

On the racecourse, who is in command, you or your horse? I control the horse. However, one has to take into consideration that we are behind the horse, our reins are long, and we cannot use our legs to give a command. Consequently, we cannot control a horse as well as a rider sitting on the horse can. In addition, in skijoring you need a horse with a strong personality and enormous determination. These are aspects you don’t have under control at all. Neither I nor the horse decide alone between victory and defeat, we always decide together as a team. My role is to guide the horse and remain on course in order to prevent a gap behind us which a competitor could take advantage of. I have to defend our position, and the horse, on the other hand, rushes ahead and fights for the best position.

What goes through your head during a race, what kind of emotions do you experience across the 2,700 metres distance? It’s an emotional roller coaster. Initial nervousness and insecurity are followed by a high degree of concentration and a surge of adrenaline. I grow much calmer.

Then, when I enter the last arch on the finish line, I experience a moment of pure joy. I can actually feel the heat of the fired-up crowd. And then, behind the finishing line, I experience a huge sense of relief.

How do you prepare for a skijoring race, mentally and physically? In my training regimen I give mental aspects more attention than the physical. I used to be extremely nervous before a race, I was hardly able to control myself. I felt nauseous, and I had stomach cramps, which crashed over me like a wave. I wanted to change that. Mental coaching helps me with anxiety. I managed to convert anxiety into focused vision.

Which characteristics does a horse need to make it suitable for skijoring? We say: «A skijoring horse has to be a diesel», in other words, a horse that constantly runs at full throttle. It’s got to be of strong character, ambitious and always ready to push itself to its limits. It must never give up. Skijoring is different from other disciplines. These are horses that never make it to the front in other disciplines, while in skijoring on snow and without a rider they will win one race after another.

What are the demands made on a skier in a skijoring race? You have to be a good skier and used to working with horses. You need to know the rules of the sport, be courageous and never give up. Up until two years ago I fell more often than I reached the finishing line. I had to overcome these setbacks and grow more tenacious.

White Turf reflects luxury. What does luxury mean to you? For me, being a part of this occasion is luxury.

The entire event is something exceptional and involves a lot of voluntary work. Enjoying something like this right on my own doorstep is luxury.

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WHITE TURF 2022

Event venue: Lake St. Moritz Racing days: February 2022, 7, 14 and 21 Beginning: First race at 11:30 AM Disciplines: Trotting race, flat race, skijoring, pony race Trophy money: CHF 400,000 Further information: whiteturf.ch

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Art Basel, founded by Basel gallerists Ernst Beyeler, Trudl Bruckner, and Balz Hilt, launches with 90 galleries and 20 publishers from 10 countries, attracting 16,300 visitors at the inaugural show.

Š Courtesy Art Basel; Art Basel 01 1970; Art Basel 04 1973; Art Basel 07 1976; Art Basel 13 1982; Art Basel 15 1984; Photos: Kurt Wyss

During the eventful year of 1968, the Basel Gallery Association decided to stage an art fair featuring galleries from Basel and beyond. Basel needed something original with international participation. It had been possible to discover contemporary works in the salons and at large-scale museum exhibitions since the 19th century, but artists had only been represented by galleries for a few decades. It was therefore decided that prominent galleries should contribute to this new project, thus guaranteeing a firstclass selection of works.

1970

ART BASEL

art basel history

1973

ART BASEL

´It made me

«We first participated in Art Basel in this year. We showed Chris Burden’s photo-etching facsimile of an Italian 10,000 lire note that we printed on both sides, and early works by Vito Acconci. To announce our ambitions, we handed out compressed sponges as business cards.» – Kathan Brown, Crown Point Press, San Francisco

discover a completely different world from that of my gallery in Paris.´

1976

Natalie Seroussi, Paris

1984

Some of the most exhibited artists in 1984 are Joan Miró (22 galleries), Max Ernst and Lucio Fontana (16 each), Mimmo Paladino (15), followed by Henry Moore and Pablo Picasso (14), Martin Disler (13), then Hans Arp, Arnulf Rainer, Karel Appel, Antoni Tàpies, Antonio Calderara, and Andy Warhol.

1982

«I was born and raised in Basel, and even went to school where the exhibition halls now stand.

And that was back when they used to have separate classes for boys and girls! As a teenager, the Basel Kunstmuseum was my favourite place to hang out, and its unique collection shaped how I see art today. I moved to Vienna in the 1970s, and the gallery has participated in Art Basel every year since 1980. Already in those days Art Basel showed its potential as a strong platform for galleries and collectors, the perfect atmosphere for networking.»

– Rosemarie Schwarzwälder, Galerie nächst St. Stephan, Vienna

«In 1973 an important structural step created the basis for the future development of Art Basel. The local organising committee turned into an international Exhibitors’ Advisory Board (from 1974). Only art dealers were represented in this body, and the distribution by country reflected the rented exhibition area.» – Lukas Gloor, «The First Three Decades of Art Basel»

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2000

1994 1995

Pipilotti Rist and Enrique Fontanilles are the first recipients of the video art prize endowed by the main sponsor, the Swiss Bank Corporation – which later merged with Union Bank of Switzerland to become UBS. In creating the Video Forum, Art Basel is giving this comparatively young art form a platform of its own for the first time.

Video works, tapes, and spatial installations have as of yet been under-represented at art fairs. Not only do they demand special presentation conditions, they are also difficult to market.

Young Galleries is replaced by Art Statements, presenting 23 solo shows by young artists, establishing this sector as a launchpad for international recognition. The first edition included artists like Matthew Benedict, Ian Davenport, Pierre Huyghe, McDermott & McCough, Mariko Mori, Karin Sander, and Sam Samore.

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© Courtesy Art Basel; Staatsarchiv Basel-Stadt; Art Basel 23 1992, Art Basel 28 1997, Photo: Kurt Wyss; Art Basel 27 1996, Photo: Julien Gremaud

«This year, we are proud to inaugurate Unlimited, an event that is destined to expand the spectrum of the art on show. In the adjoining, newly constructed glass hall, galleries and their artists are given an opportunity to show exceptional artistic projects that could not hitherto be exhibited and bought at art fairs. Unlimited is not subdivided according to gallery stands or sectors, but has been devised in the form of an open exhibition. In the 21st century, Art Basel will continue to provide art of every kind with an optimum exhibition, sales, and communications environment.» – ­Samuel Keller, fair director (2000–2007), catalogue foreword, 2000

1996 1991

«I first participated in Art Basel in 1991. I was the first Latin American gallery. In the first years, we didn’t sell and didn’t know many people. We had no contacts with clients, galleries, or museums. I was seen as the «Banana Queen» …

Fellow gallerists and collectors looked at me, coming from São Paulo, as if I came from nowhere. For a long time it was more about making our artists known than about selling their works.»

– Luisa Strina, Galeria Luisa Strina, São Paulo.

ART BASEL

ART BASEL

´We first participated in Art Basel in 1997 with Jorge Pardo in Statements. Already back then we faced the challenge of developing exhibitions for Art Basel with exactly the same approach and impact as those in our gallery space over the years.´

1997

Tim Neuger & Burkhard Riemschneider, neugerriemschneider, Berlin

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´The aim of Art Basel Cities: Buenos Aires was to highlight the wonderful artistic ecosystem of Buenos Aires and to build new relationships with the global art landscape through my curation and all the events, talks, and workshops.´ Cecilia Alemani, Artistic Director, Art Basel

© Courtesy Art Basel; Art Basel 40 2011, Photo: Kurt Wyss

Cities: Buenos Aires 2019

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One of the most spectacular events was the presentation of Il Tempo del Postino at Theater Basel, marking Art Basel's 40th anniversary. A group of the world’s leading visual artists created a major experimental presentation, as a group exhibition that occupied time rather than space.

2011

2009

«The first decade and a half of the 21st century saw possibly more changes in the art market than there had been for 100 years, and it has emerged as a very different global trading ground than it was 20 years ago.

Some of the biggest changes have been in its size, its geographical distribution, and the polarisation of values at the top end and in modern and postwar, and contemporary art.» – Dr. Clare McAndrew.

Art Basel Conversations is launched: panel discussions with leading members of the art world providing privileged access to firsthand information on diverse aspects of collecting and exhibiting art. Art Basel in Basel launches Artists’ Books, a sector dedicated to an art form ordinarily accorded marginal attention at art fairs. Its success leads to two follow-up exhibitions: the Small Press Scene in the 1960s and 1970s in 2006, and Artistsʼ Records in 2007, a store/exhibit featuring recordings produced or designed by artists.

2014

2017

Announced in March 2016, Art Basel Cities is a new, multi-year initiative that partners with selected cities to develop bespoke programs and present the art world new opportunities to engage with cultural offerings across the globe. Buenos Aires, a city with a rich cultural heritage and innovative creative industries, was chosen as the first partner, with an initial activation centred on the Art Basel Cities House in November 2017.

Launched in 2019, Meridians at Art Basel in Miami Beach is dedicated to showcasing monumental works, pushing the boundaries of the traditional art fair format. First participants include Frank Bowling, Theaster Gates, General Idea, Luciana Lamothe, and Ana Mendieta.

Acclaimed artist Carsten Nicolai created alpha pulse for Art Basel in Hong Kong: a generated light pattern pulsating in a synchronised frequency across the entire facade of Hong Kong’s iconic 484-metre-high ICC building. The tower sent its pulses into the city like a lighthouse, reaching out to Hong Kong residents and visitors. An a c c o m p a ny i n g m ob i l e p h o n e application allowed audiences to synchronise their phones with the light installation.

2019

2005

ART BASEL

GOOD TO KNOW

Art Basel ­launches Online Viewing Rooms, a digital platform for gallerists, collectors, and artists to connect. artbasel.com

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Magic Moments at Unique PlaceS PARTNERS OF SWISS TOP EVENTS:

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MIRANDA FORRESTER

We l l o f l o n e l i n e s s

ADVERTORIAL

This winter season, St. Moritz is welcoming a brand new art space in the heart of the village – and ­becoming an art hotspot in the Swiss Alps.

Plenty of prestigious galleries have opened spaces in the Engadine ­Valley and younger gallery spaces are now starting to follow suit. Studi0, a new artist-run gallery space, will join and open their doors to visitors this December. Swiss Deluxe Hotels had a quick conversation with the founders of Studi0 to find out what they are all about.

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19.09.2020 – 21.02.2021 Hans Josephsohn 1972 © Willy Spiller

Hans Josephsohn

Masterworks of Modern Photography 1900-1940

The Thomas Walther Collection at The Museum of Modern Art, New York

Luigi Pericle Ad astra

Albert Oehlen.

Maschinenwesen

05.09.2021 – 09.01.2022

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Partner principale

Kate Steinitz Backstroke, 1930, stampa alla gelatina ai Sali d’argento, 26.6 x 34.1 cm, Thomas Walther Collection.

Donazione di Thomas Walther

28.03 – 04.07.2021

Luigi Pericle Matri Dei d.d.d., 1976, tecnica mista su masonite, 21 x 30 cm, Ascona, Collezione Biasca-Caroni © X4 Studios

18.04 – 05.09.2021

Albert Oehlen, Untitled, 2017, olio su tela, 250 x 230 cm

www.masilugano.ch

sure and create meaningful connections. As Studi0 was co-founded by two artists, our mission is to champion the way emerging art is presented and seen.

Through curated events we aim to bring artists and an audience with an interest in art together to create meaningful connections that can lead to future relationships between the two. Our packed schedule of events ranging from artist dinners hosted in the gallery to talks and private views cater for everyone and create different ways to interact with art.

Where will we be able to find you this winter? You will find us at Via Maistra 17 in St. Moritz. We’ll be open Tuesday to Sunday and we’d love to welcome you to the gallery.

Tell us about what kind of art we can be expecting? Only the best in fresh talent, from paintings to sculpture, we cover everything!

Each exhibition chosen by our curatorial team will showcase a broad range of art; there will be something for everyone. All our artists have had success stories and we truly believe that they are the artists of the future.

Crisis ELLIOT JACK STEW

STUDI0 FROM DECEMBER 2020 – APRIL 2021

Opening hours: Tuesday – Sunday Address: Via Maistra 17, 7500 St. Moritz Contact us: info@studi0.art

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MARY HERBERT

What is Studi0? Studi0 is a nomadic contemporary art gallery opening in St. Moritz this winter season. We’re an artist-run organisation and believe in promoting emerging and early career level artists. For our debut show in St. Moritz we have brought 21 of Europe’s most exciting and promising young artists for three back-to-back exhibitions.

Why St. Moritz? Amongst other things, the art scene in St. Moritz is fantastic. You have some of the best galleries in the world here, but unfortunately most of them only show established artists. We believe that there are so many incredible young artists that lack representation and also deserve to be seen at the top of the world.

How do you see Studi0 developing in the future? The growth possibilities for Studi0 are endless! The best thing about being a temporary gallery is that we can be anywhere at any time, bringing you the highest quality art that the emerging art market has to offer. This is an exciting format for a gallery we believe has enormous growth potential in the future. This is our debut exhibition, but watch out: we might have plans in a town near you soon.

How are you going to be different from other galleries? We put the artists in the centre of operations. Especially in the emerging and early career art market, artists often find themselves struggling to get expo-

This red boat

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A wine merchant once wrote provocatively that life without champagne is a life that misses out on something. That may be true, and probably no other wine worldwide enjoys such a grand reputation.

The products from the north-east of France are being marketed in every way imaginable. This is only possible because the product quality is outstanding, whether it is from renowned vineyards, such as Moët Hennessy, Roederer or Bollinger, or from smaller producers that cultivate individual vintner champagne from their own grapes.

Sparkling wines are much in demand, especially on festive occasions. It is not clear why this beverage should be enjoyed nearly exclusively on special occasions. It warms the heart and soul and radiates fun and enjoyment at all times. The secret of a good champagne is in the laborious production process: with grape varieties from an outstanding terroir, the second fermentation in the bottle and a long maturing process with yeast.

However, luckily enough, high-quality sparkling wines produced by the same method can be found outside the Champagne region, such as in Germany. «Make German Sekt great again» is the motto of the top-of-the-range vineyard of Raumland in the Rheinhessen wine region. The image of German Sekt is not very good as cheap sparkling wines without a second fermentation process in the bottle are sold under the same label. This is somewhat misleading, and that is why the designation «Winzersekt» was introduced to create a differentiation between tank and in-bottle fermentation. While sparkling wines from Switzerland are a niche product, an increasing number of winemakers are adding it to their range.

In Italy, on the other hand, sparkling wines enjoy a long tradition. The Franciacorta region in Lombardy is probably the best example. Here, sparkling wines are produced by the same process as champagne with Chardonnay and Pinot noir grapes, and occasionally Pinot blanc. Of course, Prosecco from the Veneto region is much more popular. A comparison of the two products is unfair as Prosecco is produced by a much simpler process whereby the second fermentation is carried out in large temperature and pressure-controlled steel tanks.

Champagne is the king of sparkling wines and an outstanding choice for festive events.

Excellent sparkles are also produced outside the prestigious French wine-growing regions, as proven by examples from Germany, Italy and Switzerland.

WINE STORY

Seven top sparkling wines

P u r i s t i c JUBILÉ SPARKLING WINE SPIEZER ALPINE WEINKULTUR SWITZERLAND –––– 2016 A superb discovery, produced by a small cooperative in the Bernese Oberland. It is as dry as a bone and very puristic. Fine perlage, beautiful flavours of dried fruit and yeast, elegant on the palate.

N o b l e DOM PÉRIGNON FRANCE –––– 2010 This noble sparkling wine from Moët Chandon is produced as a vintage wine based on Pinot noir and Chardonnay. The softly sparkling 2010 vintage is expressive and convincing with a complex aroma of ripe fruit and a brioche flavour.

F u l l - b o d i e d ROSÉ BRUT PERLÉ, FERRARI ITALY –––– 2014 This excellent sparkling wine originates from the Trentino region and consists of 80 per cent Pinot noir and 20 per cent Chardonnay.

Its characteristics speak for themselves.

E l e g a n t CHARDONNAY PRESTIGE BRUT, RAUMLAND GERMANY –––– 2011 This Blanc de Blancs is a serious competitor to many champagne brands: very fine perlage, multi-layered bouquet of apple and brioche, dry on the palate, straightforward, dense, with finesse, very good length, seven years on yeast.

A r o m a t i c CHAMPAGNE PREMIER CRU, MICHEL REYBIER FRANCE –––– This fine champagne stands out with its variety of flavours in the nose and on the palate.

The bouquet reveals fruit and mineral flavours with a touch of brioche. The wine is dry, fresh and elegant, and it ends on a long note.

C o m p l e x FRANCIACORTA EXTRA BRUT, LA FERGHETTINA ITALY –––– 2012 This model operation from the Franciacorta ­region convinces with expressive sparkling wines based on Chardonnay and Pinot noir. A festive ­accompaniment to food.

C l a s s i c CHAMPAGNE YELLOW LABEL VEUVE CLICQUOT FRANCE –––– This wine blend consists of grapes from 50 to 60 different locations. It develops a fine perlage and a fruity nose with a subtle flavour of yeast.

Its freshness, light palate and good structure make it an ideal sparkling wine to precede a meal.

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once upon a time,

WORDS BEATRICE LESSI

and precisely ­during the Belle Époque, a small hotel ­located in a picture-perfect ­valley in the middle of the Swiss Alps opened for business. The legend says that an old lady sat at a top window, assessing the wealth of new guests by their luggage, then signalling down a suitable price for them to be charged.

Imagine the ­elegant ladies, the carriages,­­ the woodpanelled rooms, and crackling fires. The hotel quickly became known as the Grande Dame of Engadine.

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SPARKLING & FRESH

Dinner at the Grand Restaurant was like being invited to an exclusive party in a splendid house. No wonder this building is heritage-protected; the décor is fabulous. The staff wear golden epaulettes. And some couples, when I had dinner there, turned up in full formal attire, wearing bow tie and evening gown. Service is warm and friendly, and, of course, some of the crew is Italian. Sergio Ciccarone, awarded Maître d’Hotel of the Year 2015, offers a menu based on local products, with an international touch.

Delicious vegetarian and vegan options are available as well. The cheese board was excellent, and the different types of mustards, nuts, breads and fruits that came with it were a real delight.

I photographed many of the products to make sure I could buy them, once at home.

If you fancy a less formal dinner, you can also dine in the Gourmet Restaurant Kronenstuebli or enjoy some casual dishes in the Kronenhof bar. During the day, wooden Le Pavillon serves typical Engadine dishes either on the sun terrace or, on colder days, in the cosy Stuebli. In addition, traditional afternoon tea is served in the majestic hotel lobby.

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RESTAURANTS

The spacious ­Beletage offers room to relax around the fireplace, ­and have private dinners and drinks with ­family and friends.

Today, the Grand Hotel Kronenhof retains that fabulous atmosphere and is routinely voted one of the top hotels in Switzerland, so I was very curious to see why. I entered the lobby on a crisp winter day full of sun and fresh snow, and the first thing I noticed was a huge chandelier sparkling in the natural light. It is rare to see a neo-baroque interior so light and airy.

The elaborate frescoes, stucco decorations, heavy velvets, and ornate furniture looked spacious and breezy. But what I liked most was something I had already seen in photos, that had not really prepared me for the real thing.

SEASONAL PIC

© Sarah Barthet

Refresh yourself in the snow after a sauna, accessible from the relaxation room at Kronenhof Spa.

SPECTACULAR SPA & WELLNESS This was the surprise up the sleeve of the Grande Dame: the 2,000 square metres of world-class wellness area. The peace you feel while lying on a lounger and soaking up the views of the forest, the surrounding mountains and the glacier, mirrored in the water, is intense – a good dose of eco-therapy just by being there. And you have not even started exploring.

Water and fire: the pool is also visible from the open fireplace in the relaxation room; the sense of calm and harmony, here, is extreme. Water beds are heated to 37 degrees. There are a floating grotto with underwater music, a salt grotto, a bio sauna with coloured lights, Jacuzzi areas, and – my favourite – a Kneipp footpath, alternating basins of cold and warm water. Not sure I really managed to resist the temperature change… and ended up having a good laugh.

But, of course, just enjoying the pool area is not enough for me. So I checked the programme of free classes for hotel guests, and picked morning yoga – a great way to start the day. I also tried the gym, which is stocked with the latest Technogym equipment and organised for functional training. The Kronenhof is very romantic and perfect for couples, although families are also welcome. A children’s pool with slide and water games is a highlight for kids. There are also a children’s club and a lovely dining room especially for them.

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DELICIOUSLY RETRO DETAILS The modern feeling at the spa does not mean the Kronenhof is informal everywhere – old elegance can be found in many small details. There are a lot of reasons to dress up or wear a gown in the hotel, especially when the live piano music starts. I was fascinated by the many details of classic elegance maintained from the past, but in pristine condition: a service bell, the traditional keys to my room (instead of a card), some old skis left by British guests so they could use them on their return, the classic recreational areas with a pool table and a bowling alley, the – very photogenic – smoking lounge and cigar room.

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IN A NUTSHELL

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I would recommend the hotel to anybody who is looking for a special treat. Only six kilometres away from glitzy St. Moritz, the Kronenhof is «the real Swiss thing». A very special gift idea? A day at the spa for non-resident guests.

Relax on the sun terrace at the hotel’s own natural ice rink or do your pirouettes.

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WORDS BEATRICE LESSI

HORSE CARRIAGE RIDE IN VAL ROSEG The most romantic way to go to a restaurant or simply explore the Roseg Valley is in a traditional horse carriage. During the day, you can stop to watch and photograph birds – if you stay quiet, you might get lucky and get them on your hands. The night ride through fresh snow is also magical. Better dress warmly!

ICE-SKATING ON THE KRONENHOF ICE RINK Feel the wind on your face as you skate around the breathtaking Grand Hotel Kronenhof’s own natural ice rink at the Kronenhof pavilion.

Skate hire available.

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CROSS COUNTRY SKIING TO LEJ DA STAZ As soon as the Engadine’s magnificent cross-country ski trails open for the winter, classic-style as well as skating cross-country skiers are in seventh heaven. For Lej da Staz, there is direct access to the cross country slope behind the hotel.

© Horse carriage & snowshoeing Furtschellas, Switzerland Tourism © Winter run, shutterstock.com

things to do around the hotel

RUNNER’S TIP

The Kronenhof welcomes well-behaved pets, so I could bring my dog Simba with me.

Running on fresh snow might be his favourite hobby, and a very good training for me, too. With 150 km of winter hiking trails, the Engadine St. Moritz region spoils you for choice.

Here are my tips for the most pleasant runs, best views, and winter trails.

TRIED AND TESTED The concierge and staff at Kronenhof walk regularly in the area to check the current state and difficulty of trails. Ask them for updates before deciding.

GLACIER DESCENT AT DIAVOLEZZA WITH VIEWS INTO VAL ROSEG A descent down this idyllic path will allow you to immerse yourself in the unique and fascinating world of glaciers that surrounds you on all sides. This glorious descent leads to a wilderness of snow and ice taking you along the moraines of the Pers and Morteratsch glaciers right to the foot of the glacier, and ends just in front of the sun terrace of the Rhaetian Railway station in Morteratsch.

ICE CLIMBING IN THE PONTRESINA GORGE Pontresina has become a major hub for ice climbing. Every winter, the Pontresina Gorge transforms into mighty ice walls. A dedicated team of mountain guides treat the rock with water for optimal ice density, providing climbers with a variety of surfaces. Ice-climbing courses and rental equipment are available from the Pontresina Mountaineering School.

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GRIP Use trail running shoes, no gym shoes, or you’ll slip! Spikes and snow chains are necessary only for prolonged trainings, but a sturdy shoe is advisable to run in the snow. Choose Gore-Tex or waterproof shoes for wet snow or wet weather.

START SLOWLY Stretch in the warmth before going. This is particularly important in low temperatures.

Pace yourself at the beginning, so your muscles are ready to perform in the cold.

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WORDS ALEX KUEHN

CONNECT Is Zurich a cosmopolitan city? From a food perspective, ­definitely!

Our gourmet tour is proof positive.

A Tickle and an Embrace

THE RESTAURANT

«To keep the fire going in my job, I need to continually invent something new,» says Heiko Nieder. This characteristic certainly stands out in the menus created by the «Gault Millau Chef of the Year 2019». Instead of taking the traditional path, he prefers to surprise – with a special appreciation for flavours, textures and temperatures. The chef of The Restaurant at the Dolder Grand Hotel does not use the juice of a cocoa fruit, which comes with a tinge of lychee, only for desserts; instead, he adds it to red curry, coconut and dill to accompany a fried Dublin Bay prawn from South Africa. This is a meal served only on very rare occasions: delicate yet powerful, mildly sweet, but pointedly spicy. Spice, of course, is a regular addition to Heiko Nieder’s creations. Because it bridges the gap between flavours of light fruit and substantial taste. However, the master is capable of being very gentle with a touch of the classical. The best example is his candied arctic char cooked in chamomile rape-oil stock, topped off with bright yellow char roe.

This classic dish has been a staple of Nieder’s repertoire for many years. With so much art on the plate, one might just forget to look out of the window and enjoy the breathtaking view of Lake Zurich.

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Two Continents, One Kitchen

LA MUÑA

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Nikkei, the offspring of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine, now also has a foothold in Zurich – in the historic attic of the Hotel La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich. While Restaurant La Muña was named after a medicinal plant from the Andes, the creations of the restaurant’s chef, Miya Gunji, derive mainly from the sea. We start our culinary world tour with a carpaccio of kingfish with Wakame algae, soy sauce, yuzu and jalapeños.

The fruity sauce of yuzu, considered the queen of citrus fruit owing to its slightly bitter note, represents a lovely contrast to the carefully sliced fish. Not surprisingly, this combination is a classic in Nikkei cuisine.

We continue our meal with equally down-to-earth light courses: a Norway lobster cocktail with a Shiso dressing served playfully in a Martini glass. In a centrifuge, the chef coaxes the juice of Shiso cress tasting of cumin seed, basil and mint and refines it with Japanese mustard. The La Muña kitchen does not serve steamed rice in a small bowl, but formed as a cube and fried crisply to serve as the base for a Maguro tartare refined with sesame seed, jalapeños and spring onions. And what does one drink at the La Muña?

A glass of champagne from the wine estate of Michel Reybier, the owner of La Réserve, or El Sueño, a typical Peruvian cocktail, with a dash of pisco, lime, coconut and passion fruit.

Fortune Favours the Brave

WIDDER RESTAURANT

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Does Stefan Heilemann cook even better now that he and his team work in the open kitchen at the Widder Restaurant?

Regardless, the «Gault Millau Newcomer of the Year 2020» radiates creativity. He serves dishes one might not expect in a fine-dining establishment. For instance, wonderfully crisp pig’s ears with a Thai cucumber salad, or carabineros of sensational quality and size halved lengthwise, with toasted garlic bread. Next to courage and stylistic confidence, the combination of Thai cuisine with classical French kitchen are typical for Heilemann.

King prawns, for instance, come in a frothy and spicy sauce with yellow curry, young carrots and Kaffir lime, while cucumber and yuzu provide a refreshing contrast to the tuna version with sautéed belly, back and heart. However, the chef with two Michelin stars and 18 «Gault Millau» points is also well acquainted with Nordic and Mediterranean flavours. For instance, he combines gambas blancas with a gazpacho made with dill and lettuce, or he refines Wagyu short ribs simmered for 48 hours with fennel, chorizo and dugga, a nutty spice mix known in Arab countries.

Pastry chef André Siedl’s cocoa mousse flavoured with pandan and served with apricot sorbet, marinated apricots, ginger sablé and candied ginger is equally as diverse and thought-through as are the hearty dishes. A typical Siedl dessert is refreshing, and, for all his fondness for experimentation, always extremely harmonious.

rich rewards on the shore of Lake Geneva

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KIDS

Dinner with a view of glacier-­covered Mont Blanc, a bathroom with a Jacuzzi tub, and suites that are easy to get lost in.

Even young guests enjoy ­magical ­moments at ­Hotel Beau-­Rivage Genève.

WORDS OLIVER SCHMUKI

B

eing adult sometimes means having a different perspective on things. Literally. I became aware of this the moment I looked down at my son and daughter. Both looked stunned. They gazed silently, their eyes wide with wonderment. We had only just ­entered the lobby of the Hotel Beau-­ Rivage Genève, a landmark edifice steeped in tradition. While the fountain unhurriedly turned its tricks in the courtyard, cocktails were being served in the lobby bar, and we were welcomed by several members of staff of this iconic five-star hotel.

«Why do they know our names,» my five-year-old daughter whispered in my ear. Her slightly older brother in the meantime managed to ­timidly pronounce a ­«bonjour».

We had practiced the greeting on our trip here from ­Zurich. As soon as the kids had ­decided that the surrounding ladies and gentlemen were not a threat (the welcome gift in the shape of a furry toy dog must have played a decisive role in putting them at ease), their initial reserve and shyness gave way to a spirit of adventure which 155

was clearly noticeable and definitely audible. Time to find our hotel room!

Although «room» is a ­colossal understatement. Our suite, one of the newest in the 155-year-old ­h istoric building, is named after Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. While entering the room I hardly had time to explain to my children that the suite was named after the author of «The Little Prince» before I lost sight of them. Their mission was to immediately explore every nook and cranny of this elegant room.

The curved staircase ­l eading up to the enormous king-size bed, the immense chandelier and the t­ elevision set hidden ­b ehind a ­mirror in the living space were ­u ndeniably impressive. Let’s not forget the view. I can hear my son calling ­e xcitedly, «Daddy, I can see the shadow through the open ­w indow»! Obviously, he had a ­b etter ­command of the English l­ anguage than of French. Of course, he was referring to the Jet d’Eau, to my son’s ears pronounced like ­«shadow», the ­famous water ­fountain.

KIDS

«Why don’t you have a swimming pool»? My son’s question didn’t catch Lars Wagner, the ­General Manager of the hotel, by surprise when we met him downstairs. The father of four ­children, he knew very well how to deal with this young man’s question.

He ­replied, «Instead, we have an enormous pool right in front of our h ­ otel». Later, after a dip in the lake at the Bains des Pâquis in close proximity to the hotel, no one missed a heated indoor pool.

The following day began early.

The kids insisted on sleeping in the king-size bed and daddy forgot to close the elongated skylight. Actually, the intent was to provide adult guests in the «étage céleste» with a view of the stars as they drifted off to sleep. In our case, however, the sun’s morning rays woke the children earlier than expected. Oh well, we took advantage of the time until room service brought breakfast by taking an extended bath in the Jacuzzi tub. A little later we walked through the Parc Mon Repos and Parc la Grange, visited the botanical garden, payed a visit to St. Peter’s Cathedral and took ­another dip in the lake. My children loved the boat trip back in a «mouette», a charming little water taxi. Swimming and sightseeing generated a hearty appetite for one and all. A view behind the culinary scenes of the hotel kitchen turned out to be truly mouth-watering. The sous chef let us taste the crustacean sauce and the head pastry chef, Yohan Coiffard, passed around a sweet treat.

Dinner outside on the «Terrasse

by Dauminique Gauthier» turned out to be the highlight of our visit. This was true not only for the food created by the 18-point chef.

Upon arrival of the blue hour, my daughter looked in the direction of the mountains as if she was hypnotised, even the white slopes of Mont Blanc were recognisable on this lovely summer evening. «Daddy, the view is so beautiful, I can’t eat.» I understood very well what

she meant because I also found it ­ ifficult to split my attention equald ly between the spectacular scenery and the home-made sepia-tinted pasta with the Brittany lobster. At that moment I knew what had magnetically attracted such illustrious guests as Angelina Jolie, Charles de Gaulle, Kofi Annan and Empress Sisi to this hotel.

´Daddy, the view is so beautiful, I can’t eat.´

Sisi, of course, was a ­topic of conversation during our ­rendezvous in the bar with Lars ­Wagner. ­D uring her last stay at the BeauRivage in 1898, she was assassinated with a rasp by an I­ talian anarchist in front of the ­Brunswick Monument directly next to the ­h otel. Sisi succumbed to her ­injuries and died in her suite in the arms of Fanny Mayer, the owner's wife at the time. ­Fortunately, Lars Wagner omitted this fatal detail from her biography when he recounted the story to my children.

He also tends to skip this part in business meetings with travel operators from Asian countries, whom Lars Wagner regularly lures to Geneva with similar anecdotes.

After a second, restful night (this time daddy reclaimed the king-size bed) the three of us had to say good-bye. But not before the kids threw a golden five-cent coin from our fifth-floor balustrade into the courtyard fountain. Smiling, they both closed their eyes and made a wish, as if there was anything left to wish for after such a glorious weekend.

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Did you know that, in general, the apartments for households of two or more individuals in Switzerland are about 80 square metres on average? Our deluxe suite at the «Beau-Rivage Genève» measures 150 square metres – nearly double the size.

SOPHIA LOREN Italian actress NELSON ROCKEFELLER Governor of New York

JEAN COCTEAU French author

ELEANOR ROOSEVELT American diplomat and First Lady

CHARLES DE GAULLE French General and President of France

SUGAR RAY ROBINSON American boxer

ANGELINA JOLIE American actress

BURT LANCASTER American actor and producer

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1 – The Hotel «Beau-Rivage Genève» is located in this city 2 – The language spoken in Geneva 3 – Another name for the boss of a hotel 4 – The fountain in Lake Geneva: Jet …

5 – The refrigerator in a hotel room 6 – Ranking for hotels 7 – A bigger room in a hotel 8 – Opens the door of a hotel room instead of a key 9 – Where you hide your money in a hotel room

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THE HORSE-DRAWN CARRIAGE DRIVER FROM THE WILD VALLEY WORDS AND PHOTOS SWITZERLAND TOURISM

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SWITZERLAND TOURISM

He speaks the horses’ language, but never sees himself as a horse whisperer. Werner «Wohli» Wohlwend is a coachman, businessman and family man. His heart belongs to the over 50 horses on his farm.

The Engadine is his home Wohli grew up in Pontresina which lies at an elevation of 1,805 metres in a side valley of the Upper Engadine. He was raised just a few hundred metres from where he now has his horse farm. «As a little boy, I often helped the farmer on this farm,» he recalls. A love of animals was always in Wohli's blood, but it wasn’t until he met his wife Gina that it was rekindled. A shared hobby turned into a shared profession, with Wohli as a coachman and Gina as a riding instructor.

Morning routine Dozens of horses galloping in a circle, snorting and whirling with their hooves on the snow. Behind the Piz Albris, the first rays of sunshine are peeking through, enveloping a scene of snow flurries and the haze of the animals in a magical light. Wohli himself has already been up for hours. His day begins and ends with a walk through the horse stalls to make sure everything is in order. With a bit of stroking and cuddling, of course. Because he’s got a very special connection with his animals: «I love the honesty of the horses. I just have the feeling we understand one another.»

With two horsepower into the car-free valley The sleigh is ready to go. Wohli lays out cosy furs and blankets. Guests should have a warm and comfortable ride. «On request, we also offer punch.» In the winter months, temperatures can drop to minus 20 degrees. But this doesn’t take anything away from the experience: if anything, it makes the atmosphere all the more mystical. «And that’s why a sleigh ride is worthwhile, even in freezing cold weather,» Wohli affirms. All that’s missing now are the horses.

Napoleon and Nero, two impressive heavy horses, are fixed to the reins.

They’ll be pulling the sleigh today into Roseg Valley. The starting point is right next to the Pontresina train station, where the small road winds along the Ova da Roseg into the valley.

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Wild winter wonderland Swiss stone pine and larch forests surrounded by metre-high snow cover and a spectacular mountain backdrop – it’s no wonder the Roseg Valley is known as one of Switzerland's most beautiful Alpine valleys. With a bit of luck, you’ll get a glimpse of an occasional ibex or chamois while you sleigh. When Wohli stops his sleigh, passengers get a feel for how calm it is in the valley: «Winter here in the Roseg Valley is so idyllic, so tranquil.»

Living traditions There are hardly any purely horse-drawn sleighs, without wheels at all, left in the Engadine. «For me, it’s a matter of tradition. And I think it's important that it doesn’t die out,» Wohli explains. His passion, however, is devoted to the horse-drawn bus: «I like driving the sleigh, but I prefer to drive the six-horse carriage.» The coachman likes socialising and joking with his guests.

«I’m happiest when everyone is yodelling and laughing. Something always has to be going on for me.» But Wohli loves the challenge as well. Driving a horse-drawn carriage measuring over 19 metres long and weighing more than 11.5 tons uphill around tight curves is an art in itself. «I read up and researched how the old stagecoaches did it.

And it works.»

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SWITZERLAND TOURISM

WITH

3 to 6 horsepower the horse-drawn bus runs depending on capacity.

5x UP TO

daily the horsedrawn bus runs from mid-December to the end of March according to the timetable.

7km

30

the distance up to Hotel Restaurant Roseg Gletscher.

passengers can ride on the six-horse carriage, trailer included.

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THANK YOU

DANIEL TSCHUDY

CLIFFORD LILLEY STYLIST

Born in Simonstown, South Africa, Clifford has lived for the best part of 40 years in the «Villa Egli» in Zurich. Dabbling in the arts, Clifford chose fashion and rose up through the ranks to become an independent stylist and image consultant. Today he is a wellknown face on TV, radio (voice) and in the media. Eventologist, life-style expert, bon vivant… call him what you will, if you don't know him, you should!

Instagram @cliffordlilleyofficial clifford@clifford-lilley.com

CONSULTANT & JOURNALIST

JOURNALIST

BEATRICE LESSI

Daniel Tschudy has been ­involved in the global tourism and hospitality industries for nearly five decades. He spent 13 years in Canada, France, Japan, and China. Daniel now focuses on his work as a freelance writer, speaker, and coach – writing regularly for Switzerland’s leading business newspaper Handels­ zeitung. His topics often include cross-border and cross-cultural communication and society issues. tschudy.com

ULTRA RUNNER & BLOGGER

Beatrice is an Italian/Swiss ultra runner who completed races such as the Everest Marathon.

After 10 years in London working as a bond broker, she moved to New York, and then to Zurich, where she lives with her husband and their three daughters. In Switzerland, Beatrice started her own fashion and lifestyle blog, askthemonsters.com.

Instagram @beatricelessi beatrice@askthemonsters.com

STEFAN HOTTINGERBEHMER

ENNO KAPITZA

JOURNALIST & AUTHOR

PHOTOGRAPHER When Enno Kapitza was asked to take pictures for this story, he briefly considered whether he should take his dog along. Lula would have been a really capable companion for Oskar, the young Labrador, at the Badrutt’s Palace. Enno has posted a selection of fascinating photographs of Lula on his website. Enno’s favourite subjects are: people, stories, and beautiful places around the world.

Instagram @ennokapitza contact@ennokapitza.de

ALEX KUEHN

MARTIN HOCH

For over 20 years, Stefan Hottinger-­Behmer has been writing about travel, design & lifestyle.

In this issue’s introductory column «Suite Talk», he sweettalks guests into La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich’s signature suites.

A contributor to Harper’s Bazaar, Wallpaper, Esquire, The Ritz-­ Carlton Magazine, Voyage and many others, he has lived and worked in São Paulo, London, Barcelona, Cologne, Paris, Zurich, Dubai and has now settled in Lugano.

Instagram @The_Discerning_Nomad stefan@thediscerningnomad.com

TRAVEL WRITER Swiss travel writer Martin Hoch travelled the world for more than seven years. The time he spent on the move shaped his career.

Since returning to Switzerland, he has worked as a freelance travel writer driven by a passion for nature and a fascination for diversity. His clients include internationally renowned magazines, newspapers and web portals. martin@nuvu.ch

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Even as a boy, Alexander Kuehn was ­fascinated by the art of cooking. In 2012, he started his professional career as a food writer with the Zurich Tages-­ Anzeiger. T ­ oday, he writes for various culinary magazines, including Falstaff and the Gastro-Journal, and he is a co-author for Switzerland’s three-star chef Andreas Caminada. If he had to recommend a restaurant beyond the country’s borders, it would be Landhaus Bacher in Austria.

Instagram @alexkuehnzh kuehntext@gmail.com

PETER KELLER JOURNALIST

Peter Keller is a part-time wine editor for NZZ am Sonntag and the lifestyle online portal bellevue.nzz.ch. In addition, the Weinakademiker hosts wine workshops for his readers. The remaining 50% of his working hours are dedicated to the Coop wine club Mondovino, where Keller curates his own «Peter Keller Edition» of unique rarities and special limited editions. peter.keller@nzz.ch

THANK YOU

DIMITRI & MAMIKO BURKHARD AUTHORS OF NEWLY SWISSED

Since 2010, Dimitri and M ­ amiko Burkhard have been exploring Switzerland through two curious pairs of eyes. Along with their team of contributors, they have published more than 1,300 articles in the Newly Swissed Online Magazine. This one-stop resource about S ­ witzerland covers topics ranging from hotels to hiking and from start-up portraits to unmissable Swiss events.

Instagram @newlyswissed info@newlyswissed.com

CLAUDIO DEL PRINCIPE

NICO SCHAERER PHOTOGRAPHER

FOOD WRITER

Nico Schaerer is well recognised for his unique, independent, and highly creative approach.

For many years, he travelled the globe. Nico graduated from the renowned School of Fine Art and Design / St. Joost, Netherlands in 2002, and has since built an impressive portfolio of key Swiss and international clients. mail@nicoschaerer.com

Claudio Del Principe is a copywriter, storyteller and successful author of six award-winning cookbooks. His blog «Anonyme Köche» (Anonymous Chefs) is regarded as a jewel among German-­language food blogs.

He is a master in reducing to the essential – in cooking, writing, and photography. He is a regular contributor to food magazines, a columnist and workshop lecturer on sour dough and handmade pasta.

Instagram @claudio_anonymekoeche claudio@delprincipe.ch

JOURNALIST

After seven years as managing editor and food critic for NZZ am Sonntag, Oliver Schmuki has just transferred to Zurich-based branding agency Branders where he will chiefly be responsible for the newly launched «Sanitas Health Forecast». As the father of two, he is grateful for every opportunity to unwind. Hence, he did not have to think twice about travelling to Geneva with his offspring. oschmuki@gmail.com

LIFESTYLE JOURNALIST Growing up in Southern ­ alifornia, Steffi Hidber did not C much ­enjoy her mother’s efforts to slather her with sunscreen. In love with all things beautiful, the outgoing Swiss beauty expert not only runs heypretty.ch, the country’s leading beauty blog, but shares her experiences in various print and online publications.

Instagram @heyprettybeautyblog steffi@heypretty.ch

JASMIN BRUNNER

TITUS ARNU

OLIVER SCHMUKI

STEFFI HIDBER

STYLE EDITOR

JOURNALIST & AUTHOR Travel, winter sport, dogs, nature, good food and beautiful hotels are Titus Arnu’s favourite topics.

The Munich-based journalist writes for Süddeutsche Zeitung, publications such as Geo, Natur and Mare, and he is the author of several books. It didn’t take him long to accept the request to travel to St. Moritz with his dog, Oskar, and research a story about the suitability of the famous Badrutt’s Palace Hotel as a base camp for snow sport with a dog.

Instagram @loremipsum titusarnu@mac.com

THOMAS HAUER JOURNALIST & AUTHOR

Dr. Thomas Hauer is an internationally renowned food and wine expert who made his passion a job. After earning a PhD, he set out to hunt for ultimate palatable pleasures all over the world.

Today, he is a regular contributor to various magazines and newspapers with a strong focus on all F & B-related topics.

Instagram @the_flying_gourmet thomashauer@web.de

163

Jasmin is a 33-year-old fashion and lifestyle entrepreneur. So far she has spent more than 18 years in front of the camera, modelling internationally, and founded her creative photography agency Rogues Artist Management in 2016, for which she acts as an agent and shoot producer. Her newest venture and passion is jazbrunner.com, a visual lifestyle blog on which she creates stories about her work, travels, fashion, and art. Jasmin curates our Trend and Gourmet pages.

Instagram @jazbrunner jasmin@roguesagency.com

22 locations

6

Basel Zurich

39 36

FRANCE

38

37

Lucerne Vitznau

23

Neuchâtel

32

25 7

8

Bern

18

Interlaken Lausanne 19

20

Le Mont-Pèlerin 21 31

Andermatt 1

Gstaad

Vevey

14

15 16

24

17

Montreux

9

11 12

10

Crans-Montana

13

Ascona

Geneva

4 33

34

35

Zermatt

0

100 km

City Hotel Resort Hotel

40 miles

164

I T A LY

GERMANY

13 Mandarin Oriental Genève 14 Gstaad Palace Gstaad 15 Le Grand Bellevue Gstaad 16 Park Gstaad Gstaad

AUSTRIA

17 The Alpina Gstaad Gstaad 18 Victoria-Jungfrau

Grand Hotel & Spa Interlaken 19 Lausanne Palace Lausanne 20 Beau-Rivage Palace Lausanne-Ouchy

Bad Ragaz 5

21

Le Mirador Resort & Spa Le Mont-Pèlerin

22 Hotel Splendide Royal Lugano 23 Mandarin Oriental Palace Luzern

2

Arosa

24 Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Montreux

27

25 Beau-Rivage Hotel Neuchâtel

28 29

30

St. Moritz

26 Grand Hotel Kronenhof Pontresina

26

Pontresina

27 Badrutt’s Palace Hotel St. Moritz 28 Carlton Hotel St. Moritz St. Moritz 29 Kulm Hotel St. Moritz St. Moritz 30 Suvretta House St. Moritz

3

31 Grand Hôtel du Lac Vevey 32 Park Hotel Vitznau Vitznau 22

Lugano

1

The Chedi Andermatt Andermatt

7 Bellevue Palace Bern

2 Tschuggen Grand Hotel Arosa

8 Hotel Schweizerhof Bern & Spa Bern

3 Castello del Sole Ascona

9

4 Hotel Eden Roc Ascona

10 LeCrans Hotel & Spa

Crans-Montana

5

11 Beau-Rivage Genève

Grand Hotel Quellenhof & Spa Suites Bad Ragaz

6 Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois Basel

12

Guarda Golf Hotel & Residences Crans-Montana

Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Genève

165

33 Grand Hotel Zermatterhof Zermatt 34 Mont Cervin Palace Zermatt 35 Riffelalp Resort 2222m Zermatt 36 Baur au Lac Zürich 37 La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich Zürich 38 The Dolder Grand Zürich 39 Widder Hotel Zürich

OVERVIEW

39

Swiss Deluxe Hotels

ANDERMATT

AROSA

ASCONA

Jean-Yves Blatt, General Manager

Stefan Noll, General Manager

Simon & Gabriela V. Jenny, General Managers

thechediandermatt.com

tschuggen.ch

castellodelsole.com

T +41 (0)41 888 74 88

T +41 (0)81 378 99 99

T +41 (0)91 791 02 02

ASCONA

BAD RAGAZ

BASEL

Simon Spiller, General Manager

Marco R. Zanolari, General Manager

Tanja Wegmann, General Manager

edenroc.ch

resortragaz.ch

lestroisrois.com

T +41 (0)91 785 71 71

T +41 (0)81 303 30 30

T +41 (0)61 260 50 50

BERN

BERN

CRANS-MONTANA

Urs Bührer, General Manager

Maximilian von Reden, General Manager

Nati Felli, Owner & General Manager

bellevue-palace.ch

schweizerhof-bern.ch

guardagolf.com

T +41 (0)31 320 45 45

T +41 (0)31 326 80 80

T +41 (0)27 486 20 00

THE CHEDI ANDERMATT

HOTEL EDEN ROC

BELLEVUE PALACE

TSCHUGGEN GRAND HOTEL

GRAND HOTEL QUELLENHOF & SPA SUITES

HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF BERN & SPA

166

CASTELLO DEL SOLE

GRAND HOTEL LES TROIS ROIS

GUARDA GOLF HOTEL & RESIDENCES

OVERVIEW

CRANS-MONTANA

GENÈVE

GENÈVE

Paola Masciulli, General Manager

Lars Wagner, General Manager

Martin Rhomberg, Regional Vice President

lecrans.com

beau-rivage.ch

and General Manager

T +41 (0)27 486 60 60

T +41 (0)22 716 66 66

fourseasons.com/geneva

LECRANS HOTEL & SPA

BEAU-RIVAGE

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL DES BERGUES

T +41 (0)22 908 70 00

GENÈVE

GSTAAD

GSTAAD

David Collas, General Manager

Andrea Scherz, Owner & General Manager

Daniel Koetser, Owner & Managing Director

mandarinoriental.com/geneva

palace.ch

bellevue-gstaad.ch

T +41 (0)22 909 00 00

T +41 (0)33 748 50 00

T +41 (0)33 748 00 00

GSTAAD

GSTAAD

INTERLAKEN

François Grohens, Hotel Manager

Tim Weiland, General Manager

Peter Kämpfer, Managing Director

parkgstaad.ch

thealpinagstaad.ch

victoria-jungfrau.ch

T +41 (0)33 748 98 00

T +41 (0)33 888 98 88

T +41 (0)33 828 28 28

LAUSANNE

LAUSANNE-OUCHY

LE MONT-PÈLERIN

Ivan Rivier, General Manager

Nathalie Seiler-Hayez, General Manager

Benjamin Müller-Rappard, General Manager

lausanne-palace.ch

brp.ch

mirador.ch

T +41 (0)21 331 31 31

T +41 (0)21 613 33 33

T +41 (0)21 925 11 11

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, GENEVA

PARK GSTAAD

LAUSANNE PALACE

GSTAAD PALACE

LE GRAND BELLEVUE

THE ALPINA GSTAAD

VICTORIA-JUNGFRAU GRAND HOTEL & SPA

BEAU-RIVAGE PALACE

167

LE MIRADOR RESORT & SPA

OVERVIEW

39

Swiss Deluxe Hotels

LUGANO

LUZERN

MONTREUX

Giuseppe Rossi, General Manager

Opening in 2022

Michael Smithuis, General Manager

splendide.ch

Christian Wildhaber, General Manager

fairmont.com/montreux

T +41 (0)91 985 77 11

mandarinoriental.com, T +41 (0)41 220 22 12

T +41 (0)21 962 12 12

NEUCHÂTEL

PONTRESINA

ST. MORITZ

Marc Landert, Maître de Maison

Marc Eichenberger, Managing Director

Richard Leuenberger, Managing Director

beau-rivage-hotel.ch

kronenhof.com

badruttspalace.com

T +41 (0)32 723 15 15

T +41 (0)81 830 30 30

T +41 (0)81 837 10 00

ST. MORITZ

ST. MORITZ

ST. MORITZ

Philippe Clarinval, General Manager

Heinz E. & Jenny Hunkeler, General Managers

Esther & Peter Egli, General Managers

carlton-stmoritz.ch

kulm.com

suvrettahouse.ch

T +41 (0)81 836 70 00

T +41 (0)81 836 80 00

T +41 (0)81 836 36 36

HOTEL SPLENDIDE ROYAL

BEAU-RIVAGE HOTEL

CARLTON HOTEL ST. MORITZ

MANDARIN ORIENTAL PALACE

GRAND HOTEL KRONENHOF

KULM HOTEL ST. MORITZ

168

FAIRMONT LE MONTREUX PALACE

BADRUTT'S PALACE HOTEL

SUVRETTA HOUSE

OVERVIEW

VEVEY

VITZNAU

ZERMATT

Luc Califano, General Manager

Urs Langenegger, General Manager

Rafael Biner, General Manager

grandhoteldulac.ch

parkhotel-vitznau.ch

zermatterhof.ch

T +41 (0)21 925 06 06

T +41 (0)41 399 60 60

T +41 (0)27 966 66 00

ZERMATT

ZERMATT

ZÜRICH

André & Simone Seiler, General Managers

Hans-Jörg & Claudia Walther, Keepers of the Hut

Wilhelm Luxem, General Manager

montcervinpalace.ch

riffelalp.com

bauraulac.ch

T +41 (0)27 966 88 88

T +41 (0)27 966 05 55

T +41 (0)44 220 50 20

ZÜRICH

ZÜRICH

ZÜRICH

Jörg Arnold, General Manager

Thomas Maechler, General Manager

Mark Jacob, Managing Director

widderhotel.com

lareserve-zurich.com

thedoldergrand.com

T +41 (0)44 224 25 26

T +41 (0)44 266 25 25

T +41 (0)44 456 60 00

GRAND HÔTEL DU LAC

MONT CERVIN PALACE

WIDDER HOTEL

PARK HOTEL VITZNAU

RIFFELALP RESORT

GRAND HOTEL ZERMATTERHOF

BAUR AU LAC

LA RÉSERVE EDEN AU LAC ZURICH

169

THE DOLDER GRAND

PREFERRED SUPPLIERS

AAAAA GLM General Limousine Management Chauffeur-Limousine-Academy

G. Bianchi AG

Newby Teas (Suisse) SA

Garpa – Garten & Park Einrichtungen GmbH

nussmischung.ch

Geberit Vertriebs AG

by Good Taste Imports GmbH Oona Caviar – Echter Schweizer

ADA Cosmetics International GmbH

Genossenschaft Berner Blumenbörsen

ananné AG

GK Media GmbH

Allfina Group AG

Globalwine AG

Orakei Ltd

Andros (Suisse) SA

Gottfried Hirtz AG

Pakka AG

Groupe GM Exklusive Amenities

Paola Lenti srl

Anton Spaargaren BV

Grohe Switzerland SA

Parmigiani Fleurier SA

Apostroph Luzern AG

Heineken Switzerland AG

Patiswiss AG

Bonne Maman

Arvi SA

Calanda-Biere

ARYZTA Food Solutions Schweiz AG

Eichhof-Biere

Askmi04 AG

Alpen Kaviar

Philip Morris S.A. IQOS

Hilding Anders Switzerland AG

Prowema GmbH

b&n Service AG

Carpe Diem Beds

Positioner SA

Baur au Lac Vins

Bico

P.F. Timmermans AG

BDO AG

Hofmann Swiss Prime Menue AG

Ramseier Suisse AG

Berndorf Luzern AG

Hotelis SA

Ringier Axel Springer Schweiz AG

Bindella Weinbau-Weinhandel AG

Hugo Dubno AG

Biner IT Consulting GmbH

Igeeks AG

Royal Fish Sàrl

BonusCard.ch AG

Jeroboam SA

Schlossatelier Group AG

Caratello Weine

KahnSwienty – Daniel M. Kahn & Partner AG

Schulthess Maschinen AG

Cardmatic AG

Kaldewei Schweiz GmbH

Schwob AG

Cash Hôtel Service SA

KERNenergie GmbH

Simex Trading AG / CULTI Schweiz

Chef Gourmet SA

Kerzenmensch Schönbächler AG

SIX Payment Services AG

City Broker / City Versicherungs-

Kessler & Co AG

sknife ag

Kundendienst AG Coca-Cola HBC Schweiz AG

GaultMillau – Channel

Smith & Smith Wine Compagny

Marsh Kimberly-Clark GmbH

Sola Switzerland AG Suter Viandes SA

Fusetea

kukui GmbH

Nestea

La Bottega

Sprite

Läderach (Schweiz) AG

Style your home

Valser

Boucherie du Palais

Lalique Group SA

Swisscard AECS AG

Confiserie Sprüngli AG

Laurent-Perrier Suisse SA

Swisscom (Schweiz) AG

Culturefood

Lyreco Switzerland AG

Swisslux AG

Cornèr Banca SA

Martel AG St. Gallen

Swiss Smile AG

CWS-boco Suisse SA

Maura Wasescha AG

Sygama SA

DD COM AG

Maurel SRL

Designeers GmbH

MASI Lugano

Dettling & Marmot AG

MBR Switzerland

Hendrick’s Gin The Macallan

Swiss Mountain Spring Tam Plenus GmbH Celergen – Cell Therapy Teehaus Ronnefeldt

Mérat & Cie AG

THE MUSIC ARTIST

Cher-Mignon SA

Diction AG

MEDITERRE International SA

The Tiny Factory

Diversey

Metafox NV

Transgourmet

Minibar Enterprises AG

Burra

Druckerei Bloch AG

MK Illumination AG

Coop Pronto / Tankstellen

DynaSphere

Moët Hennessy (Suisse) SA

Prodega / Growa

Taski

Valentin Gastro

Ecco-Jäger Früchte und Gemüse AG

Dom Pérignon

Ecolab (Schweiz) GmbH

Moët & Chandon

UCOB Ventures AG

Ruinart

USM U. Schärer Söhne AG

Ecotel Suisse AG E del & Stark AG

Molton Brown

vality GmbH

Elite SA

Mövenpick Wein AG

Vergani + Co AG

Erwin Müller Group

Musketier Blumen GmbH

Weishaupt Innenausbau AG

Esprit Gourmand

Narimpex AG

Wine AG Valentin & von Salis

E. J. Gmür AG

Nestlé Nespresso Suisse SA

Weita AG

E. Weber & Cie AG / Webstar

Nestlé Waters Suisse SA

YOURCAREERGROUP Schweiz GmbH

Fideco AG

Acqua Panna

Zamba Fruchtsäfte AG

Fresh Drink AG

Granini Fruchtsäfte

Zweifel Pomy-Chips AG

Chaya Bio Eistee Fredy’s AG

Henniez SA San Pellegrino

170

OFFICIAL PARTNERS

TOURISM PARTNERS

171

PUBLISHING CREDITS

«H» MAGAZINE THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF SWISS DELUXE HOTELS

DISTRIBUTION «H» is the only magazine that is available in all 39 Swiss Deluxe Hotels and reaches a readership of 1.5 million individuals PUBLICATION «H» Magazine is published twice a year, in June and December PUBLISHER Swiss Deluxe Hotels Augustinergasse 30, 8001 Zurich info@swissdeluxehotels.com

COVER PHOTO

St. Moritz is one of the best winter sports regions in the world and has hosted two Winter Olympic Games and five Alpine Ski World Championships.

Our title picture was captured by Nico Schaerer from a helicopter overlooking the whole Engadine valley with peaks rising to 3,000 metres.

EDITOR & CREATION Evelyn Gorgos gorgos@swissdeluxehotels.com DESIGN DD COM AG Seefeldstrasse 301, 8008 Zurich info@ddcom.ch ADVERTISING MANAGEMENT Swiss Deluxe Hotels gorgos@swissdeluxehotels.com TRANSLATIONS Wolfgang Schnekenburger PROOFREADING Barbara Brennwald, Apostroph Zürich AG PHOTOGRAPHS Photos were made available by Swiss Deluxe Hotels, Switzerland Tourism, and other sources

INTRODUCING GUESTS TO THE WORLD OF SWISS DELUXE HOTELS

Fascinating and informative stories, interviews, and theme features on gastronomy, lifestyle, luxury, trend, and business topics, as well as interesting long reads.

«H» Magazine conveys Swiss flair, savoir vivre, and the well-established world of Swiss Deluxe Hotels and their sophisticated guests.

All texts are written by renowned Swiss journalists. They offer guest experiences and glances behind hotel scenes. «H» Magazine is aimed at readers who love exquisite service and are interested in learning more about the passion and work of inspiring people who contribute to the success of Swiss Deluxe Hotels. The magazine would like to both surprise and fascinate readers – in an elegant fashion.

PRINTED BY Prowema GmbH Im Rebenacker 2, 8332 Russikon WEBSITE swissdeluxehotels.com «H» MAGAZINE ONLINE swissdeluxehotels.com/en/magazine «H» MAGAZINE BLOG swissdeluxehotels.com/en/blog DISTRIBUTION PARTNERS BonusCard.ch AG, Jelmoli AG, Gold Key Media Germany GmbH COOPERATION PARTNERS Traveller's World Verlag GmbH, Falstaff Schweiz AG

Would you like to sell our «H» Magazine in your book shop?

Please write to: gorgos@swissdeluxehotels.com

172

YOU ARE NOT JUST ANYONE. DON’T SUBSCRIBE TO JUST ANYTHING. SEE THE WORLD IN A DIFFERENT WAY. FROM HERE ON OUT.

TRAVELLER’S IN GOOD WE TRUST

Traum-Inseln Paradiesisch. Und ganz für Sie allein

Cirque de Soleil Kultstätte der Sonne: Saint-Tropez

Glut des Südens

Ist die Vulkaninsel Lanzarote die schönste der Kanaren?

Nächsten-

Subscribe to the fascinating world of Traveller’s World Four magazines per year. Subscribe today: travellersworld.de *makes for the perfect birthday or Christmas gift 173

Liebe

Auf 27 Seiten: Wo Deutschland zu verführen weiß

Throughout the ages, tradition and Alpine authenticity have been proudly and confidently cultivated.

Gstaad is no longer merely the exclusive playground of the international jet set. We will showcase summer in this traffic-free Alpine village.

THE SUMMER ISSUE OF «H» MAGAZINE WILL APPEAR IN JUNE, IN PRINT AND ONLINE.

174

S’21

SO THIS IS SUMMER IN GSTAAD

Endless refreshment.

Climate neutral – from Switzerland for you.

175

Š 2020 Valser Trading AG. All rights reserved. Valser is a registered trademark of Valser Trading AG.

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We help you compile your personal investment portfolio with a wide selection of Degussa-branded gold bars that include a security number. We also offer bullion coins as an alternative investment opportunity. In addition, we have collectible coins and high-carat precious-metal gifts.

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