indulge
F+B TOP EATS THE POUR
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Spice Loving Wines
scan this page with Layar to download a spice and wine pairing guide.
Find just the right wine to complement even the spiciest of dishes. BY ROBIN BARR SUSSMAN
Big food requires big wine, says Rusty Sanjana of Indika and Pondicheri, like the shiraz with the lamb curry (left). Spicy flavors are also enhanced by a riesling (far left) or cabernet (above).
VINO TIME
We huddled with wine experts for basic guidelines for pairing vino with spicy or ethnic foods. Here are some things to contemplate for gustatory bliss: 1) Gauge the heat or spice level in the dish. Is it searing hot or just pleasantly piquant? 2) Consider the variety of meat, seafood or vegetable you are eating. 3) The textures of the dish and the wine should be compatible. PERFECT PAIRINGS AT PONDICHERI
Pondicheri will open your eyes to the world of Indian spices. Happily, the well-edited wine list by Rusty Sanjana, also responsible for the list at sister restaurant Indika, meets 56
the pairing challenges. “Most people think white wines match the complexity of any Indian dish, but this is not really true,” says Sanjana. He says the texture of the wine should keep up with the texture of the dish. “Some light white wines will not enhance a heavier meat dish like beef or lamb with a complex sauce. Indian food is big food; why serve wimpy wine?” One of the spiciest—but not crazy hot— menu choices is the Sayel Lamb Curry. “Earthy, slightly spicy red wines with low tannins will coat your mouth much the way this rich Indian dish does. Rhones, syrahs and New World reds work well due to their medium body and spicy nuances,” says Sanjana. For a lip-smacking choice, he suggests pairing the lamb curry with Australian d’Arenberg The Footbolt shiraz—a full bodied beauty with aromas of ripe blackberry and minty peppery notes. For whites, some viogniers, semillon and unoaked chardonnays drink well with cooling Indian yogurt sauces and appetizers. “Dry rosé is always a great way to start a meal here,” says Sanjana. White wine
bayou city m ag a z i ne December/January 2014-2015
lovers should sample Daniel Gehrs Oak Free chardonnay with the goat samosa and spicy cilantro chutney starter. “The goat meat is braised slowly with a rich garlic sauce and the cilantro chutney made with fresh serranos will get your attention,” Sanjana notes. “Creamy, yeasty chardonnay matches flavors in the pastry dough of the samosa and the clean, fruity green apple notes of the wine are a nice foil for the spicy chutney.” ASIAN ALCHEMY AT KUU
Cold Japanese beer or premium sake are safe sips with Japanese food. But why play it safe? The name Kuu means “the art of eating” so its meals deserve a quality wine hook up. The house-cured bacon, wagyu and jalapeño is a spicy yet meaty little starter and sommelier Ricky Cheung recommends Egelhoff riesling, Napa Valley, offered by the glass. “It has a sweet bouquet but is a dry riesling so it marries well with spicy food by refreshing the palate.” For red, he likes Match Vineyards cabernet sauvignon, Napa Valley. “This particular cabernet is so rich and dry it will cut through the marbling in the beef and bacon
RANDALL MURROW | COURTESY KUU
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ouston’s winter menus usher in diverse hearty fare like jalapeñohot Latin American cuisine, exotic Asian, complex Indian lamb dishes, and peppery steaks and short ribs. Whether entertaining at home or dining out, this is the time to experiment with wine picks like sizzling syrah or vivacious viognier. Spicy food, meet your match!
