THE #GIRLPOWER ISSUE A Celebration of Strength and Style
G i r l Po w e r is a Movement — Not a Fad • Styles That I n s p i r e for Fall ’20 Po w e r P r o f i l e s : Get to Know Our Industy’s Ambitious Women
Contact: Rosie Burno (514) 927-0100 sales@daintygirlaccessories.com Daintygirlaccessories.com Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/daintygirlaccessories/ Instagram: @daintygirl_accessories The Klein Group Dallas & Atlanta dallasinfo@thekleingrouponline.com 214.637.5111 Dallas Market March 23-28 Shop us on Brandboom! Brandboom.com/thekleingrouponline
MARCH 2020 CONTENTS
Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor
F EAT URE S
Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors
6 Girl Power Rising Brands and retailers are empowering girls like never before, and it’s more than just words. By Lauren Parker
EDITORIAL Lauren Parker Executive Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor
12 Women in Power Reflections and real life advice from female leaders across our industry. By Emily Beckman
ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager
18 Fearless Voices Fall fashion: built by brands, powered by girls. By Mariah Walker
PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director
DEPA RTMEN TS
CORPORATE
4 Editor’s Note
Caroline Diaco VP/Group Publisher
6 Scene & Heard
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
28 What’s Selling
Carroll Dowden Chairman
30 Be the Buyer 32 Final Cut
PAGE 18
10 In the Aisles
Mark Dowden President & CEO Agnes Alves Controller 9Threads One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244
On cover, clockwise: Greer wears Rowdy Sprout “Vote” T-shirt; A’naiiyah wears Champion red hat and Gildan shirt; Sydney wears Coco Au Lait sweatshirt; Jana wears Boboli top; Mylah wears Spiritual Gangster T-shirt; Hannah wears Le Big dress. Photography by Zoe Adlersberg/ See Management; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; hair by John Ruidant/See Management using R + Co hair products; makeup by Rebecca Alexander/See Management using Glossier; styling assistance by Khalila White; photo assistance by Ian Barling.
CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 Advertising@9Threads.com EditorialRequests@ 9Threads.com
This page: A’naiiyah wears So Nikki hoodie, Spiritual Gangster joggers, Fruit of the Loom socks, Converse sneakers and Catya knit hat.
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Earnshaw’s Infants, GIrls and Boys wEar rEvIEw Issn 0161-2786 (UsPs-320-090) the business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by wainscot Media, 214 west 39th street, suite 205 new york, ny 10018. the publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Wainscot Media. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. no portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in Usa.
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c h i l d r e n ’ s
c l o t h i n g 0 - 1 8
m o n t h s
ATLANTA • BOSTON • CHICAGO • DALLAS • LOS ANGELES • NEW YORK MAYORAL USA INC. Miami FL T 305.779.4305 mayoral.usa@mayoral.com
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EDITOR’S NOTE
Victoria’s Sequel DONNING ALL BLACK with a hot pink tape measure draped around my neck, my heels tapped a brisk cadence against glitter-infused tiles on my way to greet a customer. I was 18 and working as a sales associate at the Victoria’s Secret store in my local Northern New Jersey mall—considered one of the “cool jobs” by my high school peers. And, boy, it sure felt like it! The aura of Victoria’s Secret then was grown-up, sexy, slim, worldly, adventurous and successful—superlatives that were quite alluring to a young woman like myself. The company evoked perfection and bliss to all those daring enough to embrace the treasures of its often-racy merchandise. I was fired up about landing the job. Yet, after only a few days, I noticed how many customers lacking supermodel proportions needed to muster the courage just to enter. Their discomfiture only increased as they browsed merchandise surrounded by displays featuring extremely thin, young models. I quickly became attuned to that angst and discovered my job was much more than helping coordinate bras and panties. I tried to replace their vulnerability with confidence. Many of my customers needed emotional support, and I was happy to oblige, albeit clandestinely. Because corporate was big on metrics that optimized sales, like spending a set amount of time with a customer before “cutting bait” and knowing when to introduce upselling techniques. (We all wore headsets, so our manager could monitor us and provide prompts in our ears.) Discussing customers’ body issues at length, however, was not part of the Victoria Secret’s playbook. Still, I repeatedly found myself engaging in deeper discussions with my customers—a “problematic time suck,” according to management. But I couldn’t help it. From picking out lingerie that would make a woman feel more confident on her honeymoon to finding a wireless bra for a woman overcoming the emotional and physical trauma of a mastectomy, I believed I was performing a valuable service, even though my time with the customer could last nearly an hour in the fitting room. I was admonished that I could make more commission if I serviced a greater quantity of customers. I conscientiously objected. I learned that candid conversations discussing fit, fears and materials more likely led to a sale. But it wasn’t just about “getting a sale” for me. It was about helping women make the best choice and hopefully feel better about themselves in the process. Little did I know then that I was laying the groundwork for our
first-ever Girl Power issue. We’ve come a long way from how Victoria’s Secret “empowered” women. The Angels have flown the catwalk, and the company is now the posterchild for the objectification of women. To be fair, Victoria’s Secret introduced expanded sizing for “regular” women a few years ago, but it was a case of too little, too late. Meanwhile, others are filling the vacuum. ThirdLove, for example, is using data analytics to offer custom options beyond the standard cup size for a better fit. The company reportedly had 1.3 million women on a recent waitlist for its 24 sizes. They also offer a nude for every skin color, not just beige. The undergarments are functional and affordable and, as one happy customer noted on its website, “I don’t feel like I’m losing the feeling of being beautiful when I wear them.” In short, ThirdLove’s platform is one of inclusivity, not extreme exclusivity. I, for one, am on board with the “women come in all shapes and sizes” approach. And it appears a growing amount of people in our industry feel the same way—Hooray! Because body image issues can begin at an early age. The more inclusive we are about embracing such diversity early on, perhaps we can nip those problems in the bud. Likewise, the more we encourage girls of all ages to speak their mind and refuse to be intimidated or labeled, the better. Hence, this month’s fashion story, “Fearless Voices” (p. 18), that showcases an array of customized bold messaging on fresh fall styles. We also profile leading female childrenswear executives, “Women in Power” (p. 12), who reflect on what it took to break the glass ceiling, how they juggle work-life balance issues and offer predictions on what the future might hold for their gender. Surprisingly, some women said they feel most empowered at home, taking care of their children, while others felt their strongest in the C-suite. Others feel most empowered working on a cause, like breast cancer awareness and prevention or furthering LGBTQA+ rights. The responses are all different, proving no two women are alike. It’s an inspiring read for women at all levels of our industry, not to mention young girls who might look up to these power players. Women have come a long way as a gender, but we still have a long way to go. This year marks the 100th anniversary since women earned the right to vote. Personally, until our country elects a female president, we won’t be on equal footing. Until then, let’s celebrate the female leaders of our industry and empowerment messaging that encourages young girls to dream big. Who knows, maybe one of them is presidential material?
E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor
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SC E N E & H E A R D
Keds Kids Announces Ambassador Program KEDS KIDS HAS selected youth activists Khloe Thompson, Jordan Reeves, Rebekah Bruesehoff to kick off its 2020 brand ambassador program. Representing the company online and in-person, the girls will be sharing content on Instagram with their engaged audiences, as well as weighing in on new designs and contributing to brand events. “To see them all interact so naturally together and become fast friends was such an inspiring experience for all of us at Keds Kids,” says Liz Bunnell, vice president of marketing for the kids’ division of Wolverine Worldwide, noting more collaborations with inspiring young women are in the pipeline. “We know today’s consumers will reward brands that stand for something more than just the product or service they are offering,” Bunnell adds, hinting at special plans for International Day of the Girl in October. “We are super excited about how this year’s program is going to evolve.” KHLOE THOMPSON @KHLOEKARES
JORDAN REEVES @JORDANJUSTRIGHT
Twelve-year-old Khloe Thompson started Khloe Kares, a nonprofit organization offering necessities to homeless women. Since 2017, Thompson has distributed over 5,500 “kare bags” to less fortunate families in the Los Angeles area. She has also traveled to Ghana, where she helped rural communities by raising money to install water pumps and bathroom facilities. Thompson has hosted leadership workshops at home and in Ghana. She even was granted an acre of land in Ghana that will become the first Khloe Kares community center, allowing kids to do homework with electricity and warm food, as well as providing opportunities to learn new trades.
Jordan Reeves is a 14-year-old designer, mentor and consultant. She co-founded the non-profit Born Just Right with her mom, Jen Reeves. She is also one of four founding members of the STEAM Squad, a group of girls who work together to get kids involved in science, technology, engineering, art and math. She is additionally an active member of the Marvel #HeroProject, bringing creative solutions to kids with disabilities.
Encouraging Mom Dresses Daughter as Female Icons EVERY MOM LOVES posting photos of her kids on social media, but Illinois’ Jenelle Wexler decided to add her own twist. Since her daughter Liberty was three weeks old, the crafty mama has designed costumes and coordinating sets that (adorably) pay homage to female icons on Instagram. From recent household names like Greta Thunberg, Billie Eilish and Megan Rapinoe to late legends like Lucille Ball, Helen Keller and Rosa Parks, Wexler has grown the dedicated account @photographyofliberty to nearly 15K followers in less than two years. The concept of oh-so-cute photos paired with educational captions quickly went viral, attracting media outlets worldwide. Many of the featured women, such as Olympic gymnast Simone Biles, painter Ashley Longshore and comedian Ali Wong, even shared Wexler’s post to their own Instagram stories. “Realizing how many lives Liberty touches makes me want to continue to highlight all of the amazing women who have contributed to the betterment of society,” Wexler says. “Girls can be anything they want to be, and I wanted my daughter—and all girls for that matter—to grow up knowing that.” Wexler plans on posting every day to celebrate Women’s History Month, adding she ultimately wants to grow the online platform with a children’s book series or doll collection.
Greta Thunberg
Billie Eilish
Ellen DeGeneres
Megan Rapinoe
REBEKAH BRUESEHOFF @THEREALREBEKAH Rebekah is a 13-year-old activist, spreading hope for transgender and LGBTQ+ youth through international speaking engagements and social media. She particularly advocates for transgender and non-binary kids who are fighting for the right to be who they are in their homes, schools and communities. Her efforts have furthered representation of LGBTQ+ people in curriculum, books and media.
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S PECI A L R E P OR T
Girl Power rising BRANDS AND RETAILERS ARE EMPOWERING GIRLS LIKE NEVER BEFORE, AND IT’S MORE THAN JUST WORDS.
IRL POWER IS MUCH more than just a hashtag. This rising movement to make girls strong, empowered and heard is as nuanced, complex and diverse as the gender it serves. Brands, retailers, celebrities, moms and kids have all leaned into this, lifting girls up with respect, support and inspiration. The first place to start, agree brands and retailers, is stomping out stereotypes. While it’s certainly okay for girls to be girly, there’s a yearning for a broader definition. Frustrated by the fact that girls get unicorns and princesses while boys often get “whiz kid” and “genius”-
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themed apparel, many moms have created their own lines. “I don’t mind my daughter wearing blue and green [versus pink], but I feared she’d believe that science-related topics were only for boys,” says Emilee Palomino, who founded Smarty Girl legging brand in 2016 with trucks, airplanes and robots printed on girls’ leggings, not to mention its sold-out chemistry print. “Gender stereotypes discouraging girls from being brave, curious and scientifically-minded are in nearly all kids’ products, perpetuating the underrepresentation of women in STEM. They need to know STEM is for them!”
girl looking just as cool in boys’ clothing or The irony is that girls score as well as boys riding an electric luxury kids’ car that’s norin math and are more likely to graduate and mally considered a ‘boy toy.’” Olivarez cites enroll in college, so such gender-neutral prints Nununu as a great example of a brand that’s and empowerment efforts are welcomed with shattering gender stereotypes and promoting open arms. “I know these say no restock, but girl empowerment. Last season, the label’s I really, really hope [the chemistry leggings] campaign video featured girls speaking out come back,” one mom wrote on Smarty Girls’ with phrases like, ‘Who cares if I’m pretty, I website. “My husband is a chemist, and we would am smart!” and “I don’t dance, I do kung fu!” love to have them for our three-year-old girl!” Couture Kids doesn’t see this as a fleeting Princess Awesome is another brand shatterfad either. “Keeping a positive girl power ing stereotypes, featuring “boyish” prints on movement is crucial in today’s times, and dresses. “Space and dinosaur prints tend to be it’s something we strive for through social bestsellers, and around Pi Day, our community media, in-store and online,” he says. “It’s really gets excited about math,” says Founder important to keep girls motivated that they Rebecca Melsky. Meanwhile, Hatley’s Books can do anything they want to!” to Bed division, which pairs and sells beloved While there’s heightened emphasis on books with matching pajamas, has had great gender neutrality and equality, the movement success with its pink Princess Wears Pants isn’t trying to erase girls from the equation. style. (The book was written by “Today” show Princess Awesome’s best-selling solar system dress proves science isn’t just for the boys. In fact, many stress that while girls can anchor Savannah Guthrie.) embrace traditional “boy” pursuits in the To promote Girl Power, upscale retailer classroom or on the field, it’s still okay to Couture Kids advises moms and brands to be girly…should that be their choice. Henny and Coco, for example, showcase more girls defying gender norms on social media. “Don’t features two mini “business” tote bags for girls—Future CEO and Goal just post about girly/princess girls in a post,” says Bryan Olivarez, Getter—one in solid black, the other pastel rainbow. “These styles director of marketing, public relations and e-commerce. “Post a
KicKee for the whole
family!
WINTER CELEBRATIONS 2020
@kickeepants #kickeepants kickeepants.com
sells Trailblazer tees from Piccolina and Free To Be Kids tops featuring pictures and positive words about girls/women. “We also sell a great deal of books empowering to girls and focusing on girls being proactive and active agents driving the plots, as well as non-fiction books about women who have made a difference,” says co-owner Becca Bramhall. “We also host some local authors in our store who write books about complex girls, or girls in different contexts than we are used to seeing.” Ruth Bader Ginsburg and Amelia Earhart are the top two Trailblazers in the Piccolina series, and the brand is also introducing more relevant figures for Black History Month as well as athletes for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. It all inspires a “dream big” spirit, one that is carrying over into this election year, which, incidentally, is the 100th anniversary of women gaining Free to Be Kids is leaning into this election year, which is also the 100th year of women’s right to vote. the right to vote. Moms are particularly attuned to teaching the legacy of women’s suffrage and importance of voting, and many will bring their daughters with them to the ballot box. There’s BLAZING A TRAIL also the possibility of the first female president, as Free to Be Kids’ Having female role models is key for girls, and history has no shortage “Forget Princess, Call Me President” shirt implies. of them. Clothes Pony & Dandelion Toys boutique in Fort Collins, CO, are great sellers for us, and we get a lot of positive feedback from our customers, many who confidently rock the purses on their Instagram,” says Lauren Rice Haney, account and operations manager for Henny and Coco. “Our goal is to inspire and celebrate young girls, who are our future, with these positive and empowering statements.” Defying expectations is trickling over into the boys’ realm too. Boys have long had clothing options empowering them to be adventurous and courageous risktakers, but modern messaging encourages boys to be kind, caring and respectful. Free To Be Kids makes great tees about/ for boys with saying like “Boys Will Be Boys” with the second Boys crossed out to read “Good Humans.” Princess Awesome launched Boy Wonder in Fall 2019, where boys can find monsters as easily as unicorns to express themselves… or coordinate with their sisters.
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(including two male dolls) to the already strong narrative around celebrating individuality. The Charmsters, an animated short and extensive accessories/doll line in development, aims for inclusivity on multicultural and intellectual levels. The six characters— Entrepreneur Ella, Architect Aaliyah, Coder Cora, Reporter Rita, Blogger Bailey and Innovator Ivy—are as diverse as they come, with STEAM-based skills ranging from ALL-IN INCLUSIVITY building businesses to coding. The concept Just as girls are diverse, so should be the was created by Emily Blumenthal, founder of items marketed to them. To better reflect our Handbag Designer 101, The Handbag Awards culture, Mattel launched a gender-inclusive and children’s entrepreneurial Instagram doll last year called Creatable World that lets site @savvysuzanna. Calling itself “the paper kids be kids…and dolls be dolls. The customizdolls of the next generation,” the patented able characters feature extensive wardrobe Charmsters have 3-D dimensional mixoptions, accessories and wigs, so kids can and-match clothing and accessories. Girls style the doll with short or long hair, or in a can collect them to assemble a squad to play skirt, pants or both. “Toys are a reflection of with and/or hang them on their backpacks culture and as the world continues to celebrate as charms. the positive impact of inclusivity, we felt it Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsberg (“RBG”) is a favorite in Piccolina’s Trailblazer tee series. When Blumenthal tested The Charmsters, was time to create a doll line free of labels,” she received an overwhelming response. says Kim Culmone, senior vice president of “From African-African moms, Asian moms Mattel Fashion Doll Design. “We’re hopeful and moms with family who wear hijabs all wrote me thank-yous saying Creatable World will encourage people to think more broadly about how much it meant to see themselves (and more so their daughters) how all kids can benefit from doll play.” Meanwhile, Barbie’s “If You in such a positive and collaborative light,” she says. “As a parent >31 Can Dream It, You Can Be It” campaign added six Fashionista dolls Love Bubby, which makes coordinating Mommy and Me tees (Vote for moms and Vote for Me for daughters), has also partnered with Rey to Z for a feminist collection in time for International Women’s Day. The collab features Love Bubby’s best sellers (“Little Feminist” for toddler and “Feminist” for moms) printed on Rey to Z’s classic hats.
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VIE W TH E N E W
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secrets to success
Women in Power Reflections and real life advice from female leaders across our industry. By Emily Beckman
LISA GURWITCH
How do you stay motivated? During the last
President and CEO Delivering Good
over to better understand and address the
What was your dream job as a young girl? I have always loved languages and imagined being a translator at the United Nations. What three events have helped shape your life?
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Do you feel our society is improving the culture for working mothers? I have seen
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How do you view women and leadership in the context of your position? What traits does a great leader possess?
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What advice would you give the next generation of female leaders?
RITA POLIDORI O’BRIEN
LINDSAY ERICKSON
What was your dream job as a young girl? I wanted to be Nancy Drew. I read the books until I knew lines by heart. She was a good role model—courageous, independent, resourceful and smart, and she surrounded herself with people who wanted her to succeed. How do you balance work and life responsibilities? Balance is essential in all aspects of life, and I find it’s only achievable when approached like a business plan. What’s the best decision you’ve ever made? To honor my career as an integral part of who I am. And the worst? I dreamed of living in Paris for a few years after college, but fear of the unknown held me back. Fear is awful. It prevents us from learning how strong we really are. What’s an important discovery you’ve made in the past year? I’ve finally accepted women can have it all, but just not all at once. Women have been sold a bill of goods that’s impossible to achieve. I can’t successfully split myself into three people—100 percent perfect employee, 100 percent mother and 100 percent wife—every minute of the day. I’ve finally realized I can balance all of my roles by prioritizing well and performing tasks to the best of my ability. Knowing I’m giving all I can is more than good enough—it’s great! I don’t think I could have said that a year ago. With age comes wisdom... Who inspires you? My mother. At age 13, she was taking shorthand notes in a law office, working in a department store and babysitting, all while going to high school. Her father passed away when she was 15, and she supported her mother afterward. She helped run my father’s business when I was growing up and ultimately managed the showroom of a global luxury womenswear label in her 50s and 60s. She’s never stopped working, and that has given me my ‘hustle!’ What challenges will the next generation of women face? The same challenge women have faced since the industrial revolution, which is to reject a patriarchal sociopolitical and familial model. Women remain far from parity (earning potential, representation in government and the C-suite, etc.), so this is a struggle they will, unfortunately, still need to fight.
What was your dream job as young a girl? First I wanted to be a gymnast, then an architect. But when I was in high school, I began making all kinds of fashions, from leopard pants for my willing friends to prom dresses. This became my favorite hobby, and I dreamed of becoming a fashion designer. What three events shaped your life?
Vice President of Marketing and Licensing United Legwear & Apparel Co.
Executive Vice President and Design Director Andy & Evan
which allowed me the opportunity to meet interesting people and travel abroad for a year. own custom-made business. I made a lot of mistakes but learned so much during that short-lived venture. to return to a regular design job. From a freelance design project to partnering in the company, my career took a new and exciting direction. Who inspires you? I have always been inspired by the leading ladies in the books I’ve read (fiction and non-fiction), including I am Malala, The Joy Luck Club, A Thousand Splendid Suns, Lady Sings the Blues and The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, for example. Their struggles were beyond any I have encountered in my relatively charmed life. That perspective has always been helpful in stressful moments. How do you stay motivated? Traveling and shopping the market help clear my mind for design. As for the production end, I’ve always had a voice in the back of my mind saying, “If you don’t do this, it won’t get done.” I cannot go to sleep knowing something is unfinished or undecided. What will be the biggest challenge for future female leaders? I believe many individuals have the right intentions and commitment to an equal work environment with equal pay. Regardless, gender pay gap inequalities still exist. The more women who break through those barriers and have a seat at the table, the more women will follow. What advice do you have for girls aspiring to lead? There is room at the top for more than one woman. We must make sure we are supporting and promoting each other. I would also quote what my mother said to me my whole life: ‘Know your worth.’ You need to know you are in the right place and being offered the right support to thrive, whether at work or at home.
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secrets to success
ALEXANDRA GIZELA
SAMANTHA MORSHED
What was your dream job as a young girl? My mom actually just gave me an old diary she found from when I was seven. I listed ‘what I want to be when I’m older’ as ‘cash register girl,’ model and fashion designer. I can happily say I have checked off all three! What does your morning typically involve? My day usually starts at 6:15 a.m. when my two-year-old decides it’s time to jump on Mommy’s face. Then, like dominos, the other three kiddies wake up. My first role of the day is usually a personal chef, serving up an array of diner-like requests (rarely am I able to make the same dish for all). I then become their dresser—not so much stylist with how picky they’ve become over time—but helping dress four little people always makes me happy. That usually transforms into me being their personal assistant, explaining any lingering homework questions or putting the finishing touches on a class project. At 9 a.m., I’m the chauffeur, shuttling them to school. Basically, I’m an octopus in the morning, with figurative tentacles going off in all directions! Who inspires you? My mother. She has always provoked me to have my own sense of style and individualism. She would ask what my favorite animal or object was at the time and proceed to embroider it on my jean pockets. She would always have fabric paints, markers, rhinestones and studs readily available to create magic on my sneakers or T-shirts. We would even go to the Fashion District and choose buttons and charms together. Her fashion sense has played an enormous role in my creativity and lust for uniqueness today. Some other notable women who have inspired me through the years are Iris Apfel’s passion for travel and worldly style, as well as Giovanna Engelbert, a modern day Audrey Hepburn for her style and grace. What three events helped shape your life?
What was your dream job as a young girl? As a child, I wanted to be a textile designer. In many ways, I’ve gone in a circle. I graduated college with a degree in physics and became a computer programmer, worked in investment banking, started a non-profit and then found myself, out of necessity, designing toys. I smile when I think maybe I was always meant to be a designer. How do you start your day? My day starts at 5:30 a.m. I usually practice yoga for an hour, have breakfast and then practice the cello for an hour or so (which I started learning about three years ago). I take my little dog out for a walk, and we stop somewhere for a coffee. Because of the time difference, I don’t need to be working until around midday, and then I continue until quite late, but it means the morning is time for me. What three events helped shape your life?
Founder and Designer Cabbages & Kings
an early age definitely played a major part in who I am today! industry of creatives (stylists, photographers, makeup and hair artists, and pattern makers). for me in a way I would have never been able to understand before. Do you feel society is improving the culture for working mothers? Yes—slowly, but surely. There are much-needed women support systems sprouting all over, such as Hey Mama, FFC and women work spaces like The Wing in New York. What keeps you motivated? My kids! I have to constantly impress them and lead by example or all my validity is lost!
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Founder Pebblechild Bangladesh Ltd /Hathay Bunano PS
1.6 kg and three weeks early. He had a long list of medical problems and went straight into an incubator. Until that point, I had assumed childbirth and pregnancy were straightfoward and had taken for granted nothing would go wrong. Thankfully, we had fabulous care, and the story has a happy ending. But I was painfully aware that had I been a mother in Bangladesh, particularly in rural Bangladesh, it’s likely neither of us would have survived. what his mummy and daddy do. He replied his mummy stays at home, and his daddy plays tennis! Clearly that wasn’t true, but I was really shaken by the way my two-year-old saw us. I wanted him to be proud of us. The following year we moved to Dhaka and started a non-profit. Only once we had fled to Bangkok and started to feel safe could I see the damage I created to myself both mentally and physically. Since then, I’ve tried to ensure better balance in my life. Sometimes when you’re in the thick of it, you can’t see the wood for the trees. What traits do great leaders possess? A great leader inspires, and then steps back and watches everyone flourish. A great leader looks for no personal acclaim but celebrates the successes of everyone else. A great leader delegates, while still supporting from the sidelines.
EMMA AER
Head of Cluster North America Reima USA What was your dream job as a young girl? I wanted to be a veterinarian. I love animals and thought it would be great to help them. How do you balance work and life responsibilities? I accept that my life—at home and at work—is not perfect. I try to do the best I can on both fronts, but I remember not to sweat the small stuff. I was home for three and a half years raising my two younger boys, and to be honest, while I loved spending time with my kids, I really missed the buzz of work life. Returning to work, I missed many soccer and ice hockey games. I was not always home to read bedtime stories. It was hard, and I remember being very tired. Sure, I was not always the perfect mom, but I was always trying to be a role model to my kids. I believe you can have it all, just not at the same time. It is great to have a family, and it is very rewarding to have an interesting job. I am very fortunate and blessed to have both. What traits does a great leader possess? A great leader is someone who is fair, authentic and able to see the forest for the
trees. Being a good leader means being a visionary, yet keeping your feet on the ground. What three events helped shape your life?
travel for a year to the other side of the world. It was a very different
of cancer patients. I also interned at Porsche in Salzburg, Austria, from the Virgin Islands to Bermuda. I had a blast, matured a lot and somewhere along the way, I decided to apply to study business. we had three boys, and the children outnumbered the adults in our life is chaotic, imperfect and happiness lies in accepting that fact and being merciful to yourself and to others. Any advice for future female leaders? Push yourself out of young man thinks he can do the job, you can as well. Running a a woman can’t do.
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secrets to success
KIM PERRIN
CHEWY JANG
What was your dream job as a young girl? A private investigator! I’m a kid of the ’70s and wanted to be a Charlie’s Angel. Describe your typical day. I wake up at 5:30, have coffee, check emails and plan the rest of my day. I’m a list-maker and love a pretty notebook. I usually hit the elliptical for one mile three or four times per week. I’ll be home from work by 6 p.m., followed by dinner and more emails. My goal is to be in bed by 9 p.m., with a good book or a little BBC procedural. I’m currently reading Washingon: A Life. How did you balance being a mother and professional? My kids are older now, so it’s a little easier, but when they were young, they would go to Nanna’s every summer for six to eight weeks during my summer tradeshow season. Who inspires you? My grandmother. She never worked in a traditional job but was always creating something. Whether she was gardening, sewing, canning or cooking, her hands never stopped moving. Thanks to her, I never ate an egg from the grocery store or purchased store-bought veggies until I went to college. She home-canned everything and kept chickens. So delish! What are some traits of a great leader? Passion, optimism accountability and responsibility. What will be the biggest challenge for the next generation of women? The age-old question: motherhood or career. Do you feel society is improving the culture for working mothers? I do. The Women’s March and Me Too movement have been so inspiring. I was able to attend the Women’s March in 2017, and it really was one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen. I set up for the Las Vegas Gift Show the night before, caught a flight on Friday to Washington D.C. and a flight back to Las Vegas on Saturday night after the march. I rocked the booth like a boss on Sunday, albeit a little bleary-eyed! What advice would you give the next generation of female leaders? Be supportive of other women. Together we are unstoppable! What’s the most important discovery you’ve made in the past year? That you need a team of amazing people to really make things happen. You cannot do it alone. Once you have the team, you are unstoppable.
What was your dream job as a young girl? To have my own restaurant/ bar with live jazz. I still plan to open one! What three events helped shape your life?
Director of Sales, Creative and Marketing Angel Dear
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President Kid’s Dream
I was five years old. The immigrant mindset has always stuck with me. I continue to strive for the American Dream, which changes and grows with time. and I hope to continue growing the business for him and my family. Association) and ACE NextGen for the past five years. These two organizations have made me a better leader. Your network is your net worth. How do you view the concept of women and leadership in the context of your own career? Being in fashion, we are in an industry that is mostly dominated by woman with many female leaders and role models, such as Anna Wintour. Compared to almost all other industries, I believe gender plays less of a role in leadership than talent, passion and grit. What’s the most important discovery you’ve made in the past year? Having a solid relationship with your suppliers and vendors is crucial. When cash is tight, they’re able to extend credit because of the relationship you have built over the years. Additionally, diversifying your customer base and suppliers is very important. You can’t put all your eggs in one basket. With the current uncertainties with the coronavirus, people that only manufacture in China are scrambling to find alternative ways to produce their goods. We have trim and fabric orders that will be delayed, but we’re fortunate to manufacture here in America, so the production is still going strong. Do you feel society is improving the culture for working mothers? Definitely. It’s the most obvious in the tech industry since it’s dominated by men, but big companies now have daycare and even pay to freeze eggs for career-focused women who want to work now but don’t want to jeopardize their chance of having babies in the future. I’m on the board of two business organizations that both have women’s initiatives. Our signature women’s entrepreneur event has 200+ attendees annually and is the most cherished event of the year. What advice would you give the next generation? Collaborate more, and find ways to grow together. Find mentors who care about you and want you to succeed. Try to separate business with emotions, and don’t take rejection or difference in opinions too personally.
LINDSEY SIMS
JULIA ARLEDGE
What was your dream job as a young girl? I wanted to be a teacher, and then a movie director. It wasn’t until high school that I decided I wanted to work in the fashion industry. How do you stay motivated? It’s easy to get in a rut. I find sticking with a routine helps me. I need to eat healthy and stay active to feel motivated in other areas of my life. It’s hard to work out or plan nutritious meals when you’re tired, but the reward of feeling strong, accomplished and healthy outweighs the alternative. Who inspires you? While I was in college, I worked in a magical children’s boutique in Los Angeles. The owner was a high-spirited and creative soul, offering stunning storefront windows, beautiful merchandising, cozy places for kids and a great shopping experience for her community. She really brought out the creativity in me. What’s the best decision you’ve ever made? Breaking away from what was ‘normal’ growing up. I was raised in a small town in Wyoming. In high school, we had an entire club dedicated to ‘homemaking.’ I always felt I was cut out for more than what the least populated state had to offer. I followed everyone to the University of Wyoming, but after a year I transferred to FIDM in L.A. What’s an important discovery you’ve made in the past year? It may sound simple but podcasts! I have a long commute and love music, but now I’m completely consumed by podcasts. I’ve found at least a dozen I listen to on a weekly basis. I have learned so much about business, marketing, leadership and life in general over the past year because of them. Do you feel society is improving the culture for working mothers? Women are being heard, and that is the first step. In my 10 years with Kickee Pants, I’ve watched our female founder bounce a baby on her knee while designing our collections. I’ve seen women in our customer service department work a full day with their baby strapped to their chest. The company has supported multiple women in working remotely to raise their familes. We really are a family. Working and being a mother takes a ton of hard work and a lot of balance. It’s not easy, but when you have support it sure does make it more enjoyable. What advice would you give the next generation of female leaders? Be yourself! If women focus on themselves by growing and learning every single day, building confidence and acknowledging their own values and beliefs, everything will fall into place. Women are powerful and can accomplish so many things, often all at the same time.
What was your dream job as a young girl? I’ve always wanted to be a designer. As a girl, I would dress up in my mother’s clothes and run around the house. How do you balance work and life responsibilities? In the beginning, it was nothing but work. There wasn’t a balance. I had to source materials, make samples, find manufacturers, workshows,servecustomers, you name it. Sleep was a luxury I couldn’t afford, let alone a personal life! But as the company grew, I started to to dial back my workload, which is when I met my husband! Who inspires you? My parents. Being first-generation immigrants, I saw how hard they had to work to provide for me. When we first came to the United States, we did not have a lot of money or connections. Through their hard work, we were able to buy our first house, and Mom opened up her own needlepoint pillow business. I learned if you are willing to work for it, you can achieve anything. Do you feel society is making efforts toward improving the culture for women and working mothers? Yes, I believe society as a whole is making improvements toward the female work environment, but it is also what you make of it. In today’s world, anything is possible. Owning my company has taught me to stand up for myself and what I believe in. If someone doesn’t have your best interest at heart, move on. You are your own advocate for success. How do you view the concept of women and leadership in the context of your own career? Being a female business owner in today’s world is not easy. I have had setbacks because as a woman and young entrepreneur, I was perceived as inexperienced and weak. People will try to put you down and take advantage, especially in a industry as competitive as fashion. What will be the biggest challenge for future female leaders? Finding your own voice. With society today, social medias, influencers, celebrities, etc., it is very important to stay true to yourself and not be a follower. What advice would you give them? Have a tough skin. Understand business is business. Not everyone is going to agree and praise everything you do. You will have shade and criticism thrown your way but focus on you and your vision, and don’t stop until you reach it.
Director of Marketing Kickee Pants
Owner ML Kids
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Left to right: Georgia wears Candy Pink T-shirt (customized with her own message); Hannah wears Faire Child overalls and hat, Joules leopard raincoat, Kidential red and green T-shirts and Old Soles boots.
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Jana wears Zadig & Voltaire denim shirt, Nupkeet blazer and The Campamento pants. Opposite page: Violet wears Hanes (customized) sweatshirt.
Left to right: Lola wears Tea Collection shirt (customized with her own message) with necklace by Gunner & Lux; the Lee twins wear Lazypants (customized) sweatshirts; Charlotte wears Tea Collection long-sleeved underneath black (customized) Candy Pink T-shirt with Levi’s jeans, Puma beanie and Little Miss Zoe bracelet; Sydney wears Omibia dress, Munster Kids pants and Yellowpelota jacket and Florsheim shoes.
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Mylah wears Tia Cibani Kids top, Kids on the Moon skirt, Nadadelazos leggings, Old Soles shoes and Little Miss Zoe necklace. Opposite page: Marley wears Candy Pink (customized) black T-shirt over Tea Collection long-sleeved shirt and her own pants.
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Greer wears hoodie by Puma over Nev & Lizzie sweater with Champion hat, Piupiucheck jeans, Puma socks, Vans shoes and Mikayla’s Creations scrunchies (on wrist). Opposite page: Stella wears Lazypants sweatshirt (customized with her own message) and Republic of Pigtails scrunchies (on wrist). Hair by John Ruidant/See Management using R + Co hair products; makeup by Rebecca Alexander/See Management using Glossier; styling assistance by Khalila White; photo assistance by Ian Barling. This photo shoot is unretouched.
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W H A T ’S S E L L I N G
Inspired Style Sonia Malloy, founder of Splurge in Greenwich, CT, motivates customers with hand-picked treasures and girl-empowering events. By Lauren Parker
S
come in with their mom, dad, sister OME WOMEN OPEN and grandmother, and we’ll share boutiques fueled solely photos on Instagram captioned by desire to do so, but ‘I said yes to the dress!’” Splurge Splurge owner Sonia Malloy also promotes philanthropy, came to it with massive retailing such as collecting Easter baskets experience. She cut her teeth at for the needy, or donating May Company’s executive training pashmina scarves to cancer program, rising through the patients if a customer spends $150. buying ranks for Infant/Layette, Girls 7-16 and Cosmetics. After a How do you empower girls stint as DMM of Intimate Apparel through product? Messaging at Lord & Taylor, she worked in that supports girls is important, marketing and merchandising for like girl power tops from Sparkle Avon and Victoria’s Secret. After by Stoopher and Chaser, plus leaving the corporate world, she notepads and journals stating opened Splurge Gifts in Greenwich, Kindness is Cool or Kindness CT, focusing on gift, home and Matters. I really believe kindness jewelry with a small section in is a type of girl power, and I want the back for baby and kids. In to teach girls that it’s not just about 2017, Splurge turned the space being pretty. Doing good is pretty! next door into a kids’ destination, Splurge’s chic storefront attracts Greenwich’s quality-seeking patrons. expanding to 2,600-square-feet What about events? I work of combined selling space. Today, with a marketing company on a Stylista contest, where winners get 85 percent of the new space is for girls with 10 percent baby/toddler to model kids’ clothing for our look book. But they don’t just submit and five percent boys. Gifts/apparel are split 60/40, with items ranging photos, they have to write an essay on how they exhibit kindness from $5 to $100. in their community. I’m not just looking for pretty or popular. An Splurge grew its tween business not just because analytics 18-year-old female film student photographed the fashion shoot, highlighted its success, but because it gave Malloy the opportunity to which also modeled success for these girls! We chose seven girls total, advance her true passion: empowering young girls. “Seven to 12 is a and highlighted a fun fact about each one. I’m also a big believer in very impressionable age, and girls really struggle in that time frame,” teaching, and we recently hosted the Girl Scouts at Splurge to learn Malloy says. “I take my public space very seriously and want to use it about retailing—9-year-olds who needed for good. I try to instill confidence with business education to get their next badge. the motto that ‘anything is possible if I had a whole big presentation planned you set your mind to it.’” but it turned informal because as soon Splurge has been amping up its events, as I began all these hands shot up with a using them to build community, introduce million questions! And today, I spoke to new brands and provide services. The 30 third graders at a local school about store hosts an ear-piercing pop-up event owning a store. each month with Hey Rowan, who brings in licensed nurses and sells earring What’s planned down the road? We’re subscription programs. Communion dress launching a Shop Owner for a Day project, trunk shows are another recent addition, where 7th and 8th grade girls will come built around Joan Calabrese for Mon into the store 3-4 hours a month to learn Cheri, which sends 30 or 40 additional about retailing. It’s through the Junior dresses if Splurge hits a threshold buy. Achievement organization that teaches “Communion dress shopping isn’t for children about business. Spurge wants young girls to love others. And themselves. online, it’s an event, notes Malloy. “Girls
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What’s selling in apparel? Greenwich isn’t as preppy as people think, but it’s still a fairly conservative town. I don’t sell anything with skulls, rips or edgy phrases. It has to be cool enough that girls like it but still mom-approved! Camouflage does great. Most of what’s sold is for weekendwear since many of our customers wear uniforms for private school. The No. 1 vendor in the entire store is Iscream, and this year their ‘yummy’ fuzzy blankets that coordinate with pajama pants have been a huge hit, especially tie-dye, rainbows, unicorns and narwhales. Our second-best brand is Vintage Havana. They have a great aesthetic and we do best with sweats and hoodies (both sets and separates), cute tops and flowy pants. Rompers still do well but skirts have really come up in popularity, like layered/tiered miniskirts. Overall, I try not to sell anything so trendy that she won’t want to wear it in in six months. What’s selling in gifts and accessories? Definitely bath bombs, scented pillows, room décor, journals, games and art kits. A lot of our private school customers use accessories to express themselves in their uniforms. Bari Lynn headbands are go-tos for some bling or fur pompoms. We also do well with mission-based accessories, like bracelets from Pura Vida (providing jobs for worldwide artisans) and 4ocean (made from debris pulled from the oceans), to Ivory Ella backpacks and lunchpacks (affiliated with Save the Elephants). For tees and sherpas, I buy Ivory Ella in XXS since they don’t have a kids’ line yet.
Owner Sonia Malloy teaches Girl Scouts about retail.
Where do you see the store in five years? Definitely more experiential. We are trying out a lot of different things, and brick-and-mortar retailing is a whole new ball game. Splurge is now about providing a service to the community, not just selling merchandise.
BE THE BUYER
London Eye Beth Clifton, senior buyer for AlexandAlexa.com, on what makes or breaks her buy.
WHAT SHE NEEDS: We are always looking for newness, whether that be within a brand
Outerwear Burberry Girls’ Playwear Stella McCartney Kids Boys’ Playwear Bobo Choses
we already buy or emerging brands in the market. I want to see a collection that excites me. I am also looking to give the customer what they are after at a price they desire. In a business that’s extremely tech-driven, I have the ability to analyze and drill deep into the details, allowing me to make informed decisions for each market. Sustainability is another key focus in business of late. In an industry of high wastage, it is important we act as market leaders to ensure our suppliers are environmentally conscious.
Tween Fashion Moschino or MSGM
WHAT SHE AVOIDS: It has to be profitable for the business. I also avoid real fur, Angora and poor quality.
Layette Mori
WHAT SHE DISCOVERED: I have just discovered a really fun skiwear brand, which is fully sustainable. The clothing is made from recycled plastic bottles and eco-friendly dyes. I spend lots of time looking for new and exciting brands via social media and trade shows. I also look at every email that hits my inbox! If it’s something the team is looking for, we’ll always follow up with these leads.
Baby Shower Gift Liewood Special Occassion Bonpoint
WHAT SHE RECOGNIZES: Buying has become more technical. Coming from a company
Toys Jellycat
that works across worldwide markets, this is key—especially when dealing with markets I’m less familiar with. Process has become much more efficient. We have an impressive automated warehouse that ships worldwide. Sell-through reports are obtainable with the click of a button. When I first started, we didn’t even have access to such information! WHAT SHE RECOMMENDS: Relationships are key. Make sure you stay true to yourself, and be kind to all the people you work with. The childrenswear industry is a very small world, and you will call upon these relationships throughout your career.
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BESTSELLERS
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Accessories Mimi & Lula
Sportswear Nike Shoes Golden Goose Home Décor Jox
continued from page 9 of a tween and a toddler, it’s frankly disappointing that diversity and inclusivity aren’t core values, but to launch a brand in 2020, they have to be.” The key, however, is authenticity. “Kids can sniff out a marketing ploy,” stresses Blumenthal, who lives in downtown New York. “From where I grew up and where I’m raising my kids, The Charmsters is representative of what is real in the community.” BEYOND CLOTHES For retailers and brands, empowering girls means more than just selling them “woke” fashion. Hosting in-store events that foster kindness, girl-focused education, confidence, philanthropy and empathy are key to fostering an empowered girl community. Greenwich, CT children’s and gift store Splurge has made it a mission to work with girls in the community, be it by hosting business presentations with the Girl Scouts, Store Owner for a Day mock internships, or modeling contests where contestants also submit an essay on an act of kindness they did for the community. “I have lots of cute tees that say meaningful things like The Future is Female, but to me, kindness is a really strong element of girl power,” says Splurge owner Sonia Malloy. For its Stylista contest, winners had their kindness act printed alongside their modeling session in the store’s back-to-school look book. “This contest focuses on inner beauty and personality, along with personal style, and our goal is to highlight girls who are ‘kindness leaders’ and exhibit the Splurge spirit of giving.” The winners, ages 8 through 10, exhibited kindness in a variety of ways, from making and selling bracelets to raise money for the Breast Cancer Alliance to throwing out trash in parks to collecting Band-Aids with characters to give to kids in hospitals. The contest, which was photographed by an 18-year-old female film student, was such a hit that Splurge plans to make it an annual event. MOD Studio, a retailer in South Orange, NJ, partners with local organizations on fundraising and product drives, including a new partnership with Girls Helping Girls Period. In March, MOD will host a “Girl Talk” event with a supply drive, collecting feminine hygiene product donations in exchange for girls attending a presentation by a pediatrician on “Puberty, Periods, and All the Stuff that is Too Awkward to Talk to Your Parents About.” Girls will find a comfortable space to get information they need and ask questions about their changing bodies. Another way of evoking girl power is teaching girls to look beyond themselves. Having empathy and using their power to support others less fortunate, can be very empowering. Clothes Pony & Dandelion Toys sells Heart for Hearts dolls which represent real girls from around the world and have a component that gives money back to non-profits that empower girls. For 17 years, they’ve hosted in-store singalongs, asking for a $2 donation to a local non-profit for low income families. Kids clothing line Cheeni, which is created by female artisans around the world, actively communicates this message on social media and tags. They also include a note card in each shipment explaining the significance of their order and our gratitude for supporting the mission. Smarty Girls donates leggings to girls in India as a way of saying they care. “While clothing can only do so much to empower and uplift,” says Palomino, “I hope the girls knew a person on the other side
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FINAL CUT
Better Together Women-owned businesses prove collaboration is the new black. “Be Girl Clothing sponsored a charity event, bringing families together to tie teal ribbons around our community for Cervical Cancer Awareness Month. Next year, I hope to spread the message further by donating ribbons to the brand’s followers, so they can do the same in their home towns.”
“Whenever I organize events, I make sure to include all ages, races and ethnicities of women. I believe we can all learn something from each other.”
—ALISO N B UIRLEY, OW N E R A N D D E S I GN E R OF B E GIRL CLOT HING/ B LU E B E RRY BAY SW I M
—Arlinda McIntosh, owner of Sofistafunk “I HELD A POP-UP SHOP LAST SEPTEMBER WHERE I SHARED WITH A CUSTOMER’S 7-YEAR-OLD DAUGHTER HOW I GOT STARTED IN FASHION—DRESSING DOLLS LIKE SHE WAS! IT BROUGHT ME SO MUCH JOY TO SEE HER EYES LIGHT UP. I EVEN MAILED HER SOME OF MY EXTRA FABRICS. EVERYONE SHOULD DO THEIR PART TO SPARK YOUNG GIRLS’ DREAMS!” — C A R M E N F R E D R I C K , O W N E R O F M O N TA N A M I L A N
“Polliwogs loves hosting ‘girls night out’ parties, often for local fundraisers. It’s so fun to see the different groups of women come together after regular store hours and just relax. I’ve also been supporting more brands that use their platform to empower and support young girls.”
“I held a women’s tea party fundraiser to support advancements in ovarian and uterine cancer testing.” — R OS I E B URN O, OWN ER OF DA I N TY G I R L ACC E SSO R I E S
— MARGARET WHITE, OWNER OF POLLIWOGS
“I’m one of Hawaii’s 2020 Women Who Mean Business honorees, sponsored by Pacific Business News. This honors my mentoring of young female business owners. I have previously partnered with Hawaii’s Big Brothers Big Sisters organization to educate young female interns who are interested in fashion, exporting and business. I’ve worked with young women from when they were 16 years old until now— over 15 years later!” —CO RA S PEAR MA N, C EO OF CO RAD ORA BLES
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