THE RIGHT STUFF SAM SPEARS PILOTING ARA NORTH AMERICA
TOP DOG
REMEMBERING TIP TOP’S DANNY WASSERMAN
WHAT’S SELLING RUNNING SPECIALTY
LONDON CALLING SHOE STYLE FROM ACROSS THE POND
GROUNDBREAKING FLORALS FOR SPRING
Vertraue auf dein Gefühl
ileefruoytsurT
Celebrating 75 Years of ara Shoes! We could not have done it without the support of our indepedent retailers .
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2024
FEATURES
Sam Spears, president of Ara North America, on why the 75-year-old German brand is ready to
Greg Dutter
The passing of Danny Wasserman, owner of Tip Top Shoes, has left an industry void that may never be filled. By Greg
Dutter
22 Got Any Gum?
Designers stick with the classic outsole material for Spring/Summer ’25. By Kathleen
O’Reilly
DEPARTMENTS
4 Editor’s Note
6 This Just In: London
8 Scene & Heard
15 Trend Spotting: Catch of the Day
19 Trend Spotting: Traction Action
20 What’s Selling: Running Specialty
36 Shoe Salon
37 A Note to My Younger Self
39 Trend Spotting: Black Beauties
40 Last Shot
On the cover: metallic soccer style sneakers by J/Slides
Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; models: Nubia Santos/Major Model Mgmt., Ana Barbosa/ Supreme Mgmt.; hair and makeup:Stephania Parent/Next Artists; photo assistant Raymond Collette; photo and styling assistant: Nellyfer Espinsoa.
EDITORIAL
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors
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Mykos tennie; zero drop jogger by Xero Shoes
Propét Logo Solid : Black
Propét Logo Solid : Red
Big Wheels Keep on Turnin’
RECENTLY, I WAS driving on the Cross County Parkway, a perilous, often-clogged artery north of Manhattan with twisty turns, narrow lanes, numerous on- and off-ramps, and a swarm of distracted and road rage-y drivers. It felt like a scene out of Road Warrior. Then, as if on cue, a new Tesla Cybertruck, with its jarring bead of LED headlights, started tailgating menacingly. While I feared for my family’s safety, I couldn’t help thinking of how off-brand it seemed for Tesla, a company that burst onto the scene fueled largely by concerned citizens, a.k.a. tree huggers, hoping to lessen their global footprint, not lead-footed, self-entitled terrors endangering their own lives and those of everyone around them.
Driving a Tesla used to say a lot about a person. You were likely affluent, educated, and conscientious. Tesla Model S sedans were the antithesis of fossil-fuel-guzzling muscle cars and oversized SUVs. Drivers were part of a solution, albeit in style and with status that marked a big step up from Prius. Tesla, the new car candy, left legacy automakers in the dust.
But then came the Cybertruck and, not long after, Tesla CEO Elon Musk’s decision to take sides in our nation’s great political divide. Regardless of what side of the red/blue aisle you sit on, you have to concede that his decision to go full-MAGA alienates the customer base that made Tesla a leader in the electric car revolution. It seems like a car brand crash in the making. What is the logic behind alienating 50 percent of the country and nearly 100 percent of an existing customer base? Are there that many MAGA supporters willing to shift gears to electric vehicles to keep Tesla humming along in the years ahead? I doubt it. Electric vehicles are just too off-brand for many of them.
I’ve witnessed a lot of brand crashes in my years covering our industry. The roadside is littered with the detritus of those who veered off course, often through poor judgment. In fact, I would argue that the growth brands achieve in any given year has as much to do with what their competitors did wrong as with what they did right. Sometimes simply staying in your lane and driving forward while other swerve and burn is the best strategy.
Take Nike, for example. Recent history is proving that the company’s decision to focus on DTC—at the expense of doing business with thousands of long-time
wholesale accounts—has been a brand wreck. (A lack of product innovation coupled with relying too heavily on classic styles to fuel sales played a significant role, too.) The mistakes have steered Nike way off course, as evidenced by the recent change in leadership and the announcement of a turnaround strategy. Meanwhile, Hoka, On, New Balance, Brooks, and others have been racing forward with sales increases. These brands have done a lot of things right, but if Nike had been Nike, would they have been as successful?
Jackknifed brands extend to the brown shoe lanes, particularly Euro comfort. The list of wrecks that refused to adapt to the style nuances and production schedule of the North American market is like a backup on the Cross Bronx Expressway—endless. That has helped open the door for others. Sam Spears, president of Ara North America and subject of our Q&A (p. 10), is nothing short of a driving instructor on this topic. He has 30-plus years under his belt working for various leading Euro comfort brands, both here and in Europe. He knows which roads are avenues of growth and what the dead ends are. It hasn’t always been a smooth ride, but Spears has learned from experience, which he shares candidly.
Our latest issue is full of examples of execs with a firm hand on the wheel of their brands. There are startups—like Agency Footwear’s Mathew Drazic (p. 8) and Lyndsey Carmichael, founder of Soleni Shoes (p. 36)—as well as veterans, including Naot’s Ayelet Lax Levy, the latest participant in our A Note to My Younger Self series (p. 37). Their brand positions vary, but they all keep their eyes on the road and know the destination they want to reach.
At times I feel like a traffic reporter, providing updates on who’s moving in the right direction and what they’re driving to market. The jockeying of brands is not unlike a ride on any of New York’s hairy highways—fast, unpredictable, and at times downright dangerous. Some brands are cruising along with the top down. Others are running on empty, lost, or, worse, in need of a wrecker to come and pick up the pieces.
Stay tuned for more brand traffic reports from Footwear Plus. On that note, I’ll miss one of our longtime eyes-in-the-sky reporters, the late Danny Wasserman, owner of Tip Top Shoes in New York (p. 16). His industry knowledge was unsurpassed. His regular updates about how overall brand traffic was moving will be missed, not just by me but by much of the industry.
Smoke Signals
London Fashion Week is ablaze with statement shoe styles. Photography by Melodie Jeng
Agency Footwear Debuts
The purpose-driven startup teams with social justice organization.
PROOF THAT GREAT MINDS think alike, Agency Footwear is partnering with like-minded The Gathering for Justice, a non-profit founded by Harry Belafonte and dedicated to racial equity and justice. All net proceeds of Agency’s inaugural sneaker collection will go the organization and a percentage of sales on future shoes.
“The Gathering for Justice is the ideal partner for Agency because our missions for moving culture towards justice and equity complement each other,” says Mathew Drazic, founder and creative director. “Agency engages the community through product design that’s engineered with purpose and fully supports The Gathering’s efforts physically, philosophically, and monetarily.”
The Guardian Storm (SRP: $195) is a mid-top sneaker with interchangeable, purpose-based “Fix the Future” iconography. It also includes a plantbased D-Vine rubber outsole, a breathable upper with a lock-down lacing configuration, and a cushioned yet supportive plant-based D-Lite foam midsole. “Our shoes are designed for activists, organizers, and anyone working hard to get things done,” Drazic says.
The shoe debuted in October at Extra Butter in New York and on Agency’s DTC site. The plan is to initially focus on boutiques and specialty stores that share Agency’s mission to sustain and elevate those fighting for social change. “We also have a have a multi-tiered strategy to maintain relevance in the sneakerhead and social justice communities while making our shoes more accessible to a mainstream audience,” Drazic says. “This will take shape as our mission of positive change permeates the market.”
In the meantime, The Gathering is connecting Agency to its legion of activists. Drazic says the organization, founded in 2005, recognizes the opportunity fashion provides to creatively reach new audiences with a message of social justice in ways that feel rejuvenating and uplifting. “They’ve done this before as the only American-based nonprofit to represent Idris
Tradehome Shoes Honored
TRADEHOME SHOES, THE 135-store Midwestern-based chain, is the sole recipient of the Best Place to Work award by Minnesota Retailers. The nonprofit association cited the retailer’s workplace culture where employees feel valued, respected, and empowered to thrive. The icing on the cake: Tradehome Shoes being 100 percent employee-owned.
Justin Kehrwald, president/CEO of Tradehome Shoes, couldn’t agree more with the assessment. “We empower every employee to share ideas that help our company advance,” he says, noting that most of the leadership team began their careers at entry-level positions within the company.
and Sabrina Elba’s work with Christian Louboutin,” he notes.
This isn’t a fleeting marketing hook, Drazic assures. For starters, “Fix the Future” references macro issues like racial equity and environmental matters, and those can’t be fixed overnight. “Coalition-building spans the brand identity to the performance features of the shoes to the partnerships we seek, and building collective power is the key to solving the riddles of social inequity as well as climate change,” he says. “Our shoes give The Gathering another opportunity to bring more people together.”
It’s all about the people for Drazic. The former New Balance and Diesel designer stepped away from large corporations a few years ago to design for the people instead. But it hasn’t been easy. He likens the task to being like the musician, Beck. “I’m designer, producer, creative director, executive director, retail operations, website builder, project manager, financier…you name it, I do it,” he says, noting that getting factory owners to allocate resources has been the toughest challenge. Mission, though, is being accomplished. “We don’t over-promise; we remain in good standing with our partners, and we present a unique market position,” he says.
Drazic singles out development partner, Ken Shao, for bringing Agency to life. Shouts out also to Keiko Hirosue at Brooklyn Shoe Space, where Drazic hand-built the first prototype; Sean Williams at SOLEcial Studies CommUNITY Academy, who instilled the confidence to know he was on the right track; and Bernie Gross, creative director at Extra Butter, who connected him to like-minded creatives.
Drazic’s ultimate Agency dream: official outfitter of the U.S. Olympic Team for the opening ceremonies in eight to 16 years. Near-term goals for the Brooklyn, NY, company are to prove its philosophy that “activists are athletes and the sport is change.” That requires establishing Agency as an influential member of the activist community and a noteworthy brand within the market. “We already have several styles in the hopper, so we’ll also look to build on the momentum of our launch with thoughtful and engaging products,” Drazic says.
“We identify with every employee and their importance to Tradehome because we’ve been in their positions.”
The employee-ownership model fosters an entrepreneurial spirit, giving team members a sense of pride and ownership in the company’s success, according to Bruce Nustad, president of Minnesota Retailers. It helps Tradehome retain talent and provide career growth opportunities. “Their dedication to building a positive, inclusive environment shines through in everything they do,” he states.
Kehrwald says this recognition means as much as a growth-related award. In fact, he says they are directly related. “We believe sales increases and company growth are natural by products of treating people right— both customers and employees,” he says. “Winning this award reflects that our priorities are in the right place.”
The Tradehome Shoes team circa September 2024.
WSS Celebrates 40th anniversary
The Foot Locker subsidiary is marking the milestone with a community outreach tour.
WSS (EUROSTAR, INC.) has sure come a long way from its Los Angeles swap meet roots over the past four decades. The now 140-plus nationwide chain of athletic footwear and apparel stores wants to say thank you to the loyal customers who helped get it here with a month-long anniversary tour in October consisting of community events, exclusive collaborations with select brands, and a “40 Days of Value” campaign offering customers the best deals of the year.
“This anniversary is more than just a company milestone, it’s about celebrating the neighborhoods and communities that have supported WSS from the very beginning,” says Blanca Gonzalez, senior vice president and general manager. “We’re giving back to those communities that have been at the heart of everything we do. We’re putting a spotlight on the culture and traditions that make our customers who they are.” She adds, “This isn’t just about looking back; it’s about showing gratitude and continuing to build those meaningful connections that have made WSS what it is today.”
The events are taking place in key cities, including Los Angeles, San Antonio, and Bakersfield. They will spotlight the vibrant cultures that shape those neighborhoods, featuring local food, entertainment, and family activities. Sports and education programs, designed to empower communities and inspire a brighter future for children, will be a focus. In addition, a WSS food truck will make 40 stops nationwide and be accompanied by a street team dedicated to engaging with local community members. One such stop was the recent East Los Angeles Mexican Independence Day Parade, which reflects WSS’s commitment to celebrating cultural heritage and supporting the neighborhoods that have fueled its growth.
Similarly, the exclusive collabs—including Bad Bunny x Adidas (pictured) and Día de Muertos-themed collections from Adidas and Puma—honor the rich traditions that are deeply intertwined with WSS’s customer base, especially within Latino communities. Meanwhile, the “40 Days of Value” campaign will offer deals on popular footwear and apparel brands that have long been part of customers’ lives. The campaign, Gonzalez explains, underscores WSS’s philosophy that value goes beyond price. It’s about building lasting connections and creating experiences that resonate deeply within the communities it serves.
“It’s important for us to take this celebration beyond stores because WSS has always been about more than just selling shoes—it’s about building real relationships with the people in our neighborhoods,” Gonzalez says. “By hosting events with food, entertainment, and activities for families, we’re also creating memories that go way beyond a typical shopping experience. It’s our way of saying thank you and connecting with people on a deeper, more personal level, which has always been the heart of WSS.”
Give Breast Cancer the Boot!
IDA Sports cleats to raise funds and awareness.
IT’S A PERFECT match. IDA Sports, a woman-founded, led, and focused company, is putting its best cleat forward with the limitededition Breast Self Pack. The launch, this month, is in partnership with Know Your Lemons Foundation, a charitable organization committed to early detection and education of the disease. The brand will donate $10 for every pair sold to the foundation.
“When we connected with Know Your Lemons, we knew they were an organization that was about more than simply raising awareness, but also about action and addressing the problem further upstream,” says Tabitha Tice, head of marketing for the Houston-based company. “We share values around education and broadening conversations around the female body. Both organizations believe in the power women have to take action in caring for their bodies, which are much more likely once these conversations become commonplace.”
The cleat isn’t a case of pink washing, assures Tice. That’s because IDA Sports doesn’t adhere to the common “shrink it and pink it” approach to women’s sports footwear. The company’s footwear is designed specifically for the unique biomechanics of female bodies with the goal of reducing injuries and increasing comfort. “IDA has always existed to dismantle the ‘pink it and shrink it‘ ideology that has long prevailed in women’s sports, and has always been against defaulting to pink as a way to connect authentically with women and girls,” Tice explains, adding, “These are the first cleats we’ve designed that prominently feature pink, but we wanted to do it right and do it on behalf of a cause that truly affects our entire community.”
Tice says partnering with Know Your Lemons Foundation is what makes the collab special. “It’s important for us to partner with an organization that is making a tangible impact in breast health, and the money raised through our Breast Self Pack will provide additional opportunities for education on an illness that impacts one in eight women,” she says. “Simply put: education equals action.”
Since launching in 2020, IDA Sports has been scoring successes, reports Tice. “Business has been great,” she says. “Our online sales are up considerably year-over-year, and we’re available in more major retailers, such as Dick’s Sporting Goods, Scheels, and Soccer.com.” She credits the success to the growing popularity of the sport worldwide as well as the “aha” moment when women first slip on a pair. “Women’s cleats just make sense to them, and they can’t wait to tell their teammates about us,” Tice says. “IDA is more than a shoe, it’s a movement of women and girls who want better gear that is better suited for their needs.”
Blanca Gonzalez
Q&A
BY GREG DUTTER
FLIGHT TIME
Sam Spears, president of Ara North America, on why the 75-year-old German brand is ready to soar.
mUCH OF THE HEAVY lifting is done. The revamped sales team is firmly in place and killing it. The product, which has always been solid, is better and more diverse than ever. Once a brand known in North America almost exclusively for Gore-Tex-lined, black fashion boots, Ara has expanded into a year-round assortment including sneakers and sandals. In fact, sneakers are now the region’s largest-selling category. Few, if anyone inside and outside Ara, saw that potential—except Sam Spears.
“We’re up significant double digits over last year, and sneakers are our number one category by a long shot,” Spears reports. “In fact, we’re now selling more sneakers as a category than we used to sell as a brand in North America.”
Sandals are also resonating strongly of late, a first since Ara debuted in North America in 1998, according to Spears. He credits the success, in part, to head designer Ralf Schlachter making annual Sun Belt scouting trips, which began in 2022. “We meet with retailers and discuss what types of products work and don’t,” he says, adding that, for the first time, Ara will begin delivering sandals in November for that region. “That’s a monumental change for our company, which normally makes that category available in March and April when the European market needs it. I told them for years that we’re missing out on sales. They’ve come around to that change.”
Since joining as president of the division eight years ago, Spears has worked tirelessly to position Ara for growth. At times, it has felt like an army of one trying to convince corporate of the North American market’s unique product, marketing, and logistics needs. But when a division is miniscule in comparison to the 300-pound gorilla that Ara is in Europe, one can get lost in the shuffle. Still, Spears persisted. His extensive industry experiences spanning more than three decades at leading companies (Ecco, Pentland Group, and Ariat, among others) and introducing breakthrough designs and marketing campaigns convinced him that Ara possessed similar attributes.
“I knew Ara well because I’d lived in Europe for years, and I believe we can
do a Receptor type-program like we did with Ecco, which launched the brand to another level,” Spears says. “I believe we can make lightning in a bottle twice.”
That bolt, Spears says, could be Ara’s Mariana technical walking shoe, part of its new Motion collection for Spring/Summer ’25. The high-performance shoe was developed, over 18 months, in partnership with the University of Cologne’s Sport University—the same institution that developed Ecco’s BIOM natural motion construction. It’s been awarded the German equivalent of
the APMA seal of approval. But it’s not just an instability story a la MBT, Spears assures. “It’s a performance walking shoe with a gait design that also provides some instability when standing still,” he explains. “The core muscles are activated.” Spears adds that the shoe is aimed, in part, at attracting a younger, more active consumer—a focus of Ara’s worldwide. “Everyone knows sneakers aren’t going away, and we also recognize that if On, Hoka, etc. are surrendering sales in comfort specialty stores, then we should offer a technical walking product, especially for women who are only using those shoes for walking.”
So far so good. “We’re selling truckloads of Mariana. Retailers love the colors, styling, and the energy it creates on the shelf,” Spears reports, citing the orchid/royal/kiwi/white/silver combo being on almost every order at recent shows. The success has also opened eyes at Ara corporate. Spears initially thought that his division might be the only one to sell Motion, but that’s not the case. “We’re a drop in the ocean compared to what our European division is now buying of the collection,” he says. It’s made for a nice silver lining. “We’ve shown how we’ve successfully transitioned from a purely dress/Gore-Tex brand to sneaker-led. It’s helping the entire company.”
Ara corporate was also skeptical about the power of in-store events. That is until a Spears presentation on the topic at a recent sales conference. Initially, many of his international colleagues appeared uninterested. But when sales associate Jonathan Roselli displayed Ara-branded luggage tags, wine corkscrews, and stoppers and then passed around scratch-off cards so team members could see what they had won, they were sold. “The enthusiasm went from less than zero to them high-fiving each other,” Spears recalls. “You don’t need to spend a gazillion dollars to make a meaningful impact.” He adds, “The internet is just a transaction, whereas stores must create an entertainment value. Something that people want to partake in, and then they’ll tell their friends and so on and so on.”
Take Ara’s recent event at Fleming’s Comfort Footwear in Tulsa, OK, for example. In recognition of International Speak Like a Pirate Day and the brand being Arrrra, the staff and Spears dressed as pirates and gave away hats, eye patches, stuffed parrots, fake doubloons, and balloons. Customers could also get their pictures taken in a face cutout that made them look like a pirate. Fleming’s also hosted Ara’s “May the Fourth Be With You” event this year. Owner Ryan Fleming dressed as Obi Won Shoenobi and his staff dressed as various Star Wars–themed characters like BobaFOOT, Sandalorian, and Grogu the Shoe Guru. “Our territory manager, Cherry Shore, was Princess Laces and I was Arch Vader,” Spears says. “We waved
Q&A
long, red Ara shoehorns as ‘shoe sabers’ and gave away silly prizes and gifts to customers. Everyone loved it.” And, last month, the team held an A.R.A. (Ara Races Around) event at Cute & Comfy in Nashville. Customers raced around a track in the store wearing Ara dress shoes to win prizes while sales rep Mike Schmidlin and I, wearing referee shirts, officiated. Spears says the purpose was to show how comfortable and functional Ara shoes are, but everyone had fun.
These events cost from zero to just a few hundred bucks apiece, but the bump in sales and customers learning about the brand were far greater. “These events are silly, inexpensive, a lot of fun, and they work,” Spears says. “Humans all want to be entertained.”
Spears’ determination to get Ara to tailor its approaches to product, marketing, and logistics for North America are paying huge dividends. While it took six years to get his points across, the wind is finally at his back. The NSRA named Ara its “vendor of the year“ for 2024. The product, people, and planning are rounding into form. The results of the past two years back it up. Ara is growing fast, and Spears is confident the brand is positioned to soar in the coming years. “We have so much runway ahead of us,” he says. “Watch this space.”
You are patient and persistent if nothing else, no? I am. My first six years at Ara I felt like a goaltender. I was always on defense trying to position us in
OFF THE CUFF
What are you reading? Traction and Living the EOS Life by Gino Wickman. Traction is geared toward entrepreneurs, which I’m not, per se, but we’re very fortunate that our German ownership gives us a tremendous amount of lead to do what we believe is good for Ara North America. Living the EOS (Entrepreneurial Operating System) Life is about making sure you get the right people on the bus to figure out where you need to go. It’s very inspirational. I’m also a WWII history buff and I’m reading The Last Battle, which is about a small group of American tankers who joined forces with German soldiers to fight off fanatical SS troops seeking to capture a castle in Austria to kill its VIP prisoners. It’s an incredible story.
What was the last series you watched? Unforgotten. It’s a fictional BBC series about cold case murders. I’m also in the middle of Rings of Power on Amazon and I’m going, with my brother, to see the 50th anniversary showing of Blazing Saddles at our local theater. I love Mel Brooks.
Where is your moment of Zen?
Most often it’s in the garden. I’m also an avid scuba diver. I live to be under the water with the corals, reef fish, and turtles.
Your first concert and best concert? My first was a Christian rock band, but I can’t remember the name. So I count Simple Minds at Wembley Stadium as my first. My best was the Pet Shop Boys. I was at an Electronic performance at Wembley when former Pet Shop Boys founder Chris Lowe was unexpectedly joined on stage by his old bandmate, Neil Tennant. They did a 10-song set of their hits. The place went nuts.
What super power would you most like to have? My first thought is to fly, as I wanted to be a fighter pilot growing up.
Who have been your greatest influences? My parents and my older brother and sister. Professionally, it’s Elliot Schwartz, the former president of Kangaroos and the person who hired me into this industry. Also, Bill Lolas, who was very instrumental to me when I
worked at Pony and Stephen Rubin of Pentland Group. He always had time for me, even after I left Pentland twice. And Bruce Kaplan, who I first met in 1998 working at Ecco and later worked together at Ariat. We’ve traded ideas over the years. He’s an exceptional talent with extensive knowledge in sales, operations, logistics…the total package.
What keeps you awake at night?
A tremendous number of luxury problems, in that there’s just not enough time in the day for me to do the things I need and should do for Ara North America.
What is your favorite hometown memory? I’m from Tulsa, OK, and it’s of being an extra in The Outsiders. In one scene, I drive by in my dad’s ’62 Chevy Impala. In another, I’m smoking a cigarette outside my dad’s actual office at the phone company.
I was a Soc. I’m wearing a letterman’s jacket and plaid. It was such a cool experience.
What is your motto? Do unto to others as you would have done to you.
North America for success. Now I feel like a center halfback where I’m playing offense a lot more. I’m up there with the forwards trying to score. It’s so much more fun!
What took so long?
We’re a tiny division in relation to what Ara is in Europe. Sometimes, it’s just hard to be heard when you’re on the outside looking in and don’t move the needle nearly as much. But we’ve made tremendous progress over the past 24 months. Lots of logistical matters have been addressed and our storytelling has made great strides. Now we’re doing complete presentations about the theme behind each season, which includes trend and color analysis. We’ve also brought in fashionable, younger women into our sales force. We invested there when a lot of other companies cut back amid the pandemic’s fallout. Our sales team now better reflects the women’s fashion comfort market where we primarily reside. They sell stories and present fashion well, and our business has grown accordingly. The team works together so well. I’m so proud of them. Basically, the only thing that’s the same since I arrived is our warehouse and customer service staffs, which are tremendous. In fact, I told our new CEO Stefan Rassau that he already has a great team in place. That’s why I’m so bullish about our prospects for growth going forward. We have a great story to tell as third-generation, family-owned shoemakers.
Your track record of success in these areas must have helped make a strong case. It did, eventually. For example, when I first joined Ecco, I put together an ad campaign on the fly and inserted “by the appointment of the Royal Danish Court” into the logo. I’d lived in the UK for several years and understood the power of royal families in Europe. I thought that stamp of approval would be an incredible brand asset. This was around 1997, before things went viral online, and we had to hire an outside call center to handle the volume. I’m also the father of Receptor. The Yucatan sandal is my baby. I didn’t develop the concept, but I did develop the technology and I oversaw the introduction of it into the marketplace. It performed exceptionally well at retail. And I believe Ara has similar potentials for success. So long as we continue to be imaginative and smooth out any logistical matters to be more North American-centric, the opportunity for growth is exceptional. That has been my attraction to this brand all along.
Why is Ara North America doing so well when a lot of brands have been struggling of late? A lot has to do with the excitement and belief that our sales team exudes. It’s contagious. Also, our sellthrough reports from across the U.S. and Canada have been exceptional. For example, a multi-store
Q&A
premium business based in Quebec reported, for the first time in its 39-year history, a 100 percent sell-through, down to the size and at full price, of a brand. It was Ara. My response to him was he should have bought more shoes and chased that business! (Laughs) The bigger point, of course, is that Ara is selling great of late. We’re the number-one brand for the past three years at Jean-Paul Fortin in the Quebec region. That’s a really big deal.
Is the growth coming at the expense of other brands mostly? Partly. We’ve taken business from brands that have run into trouble, but we should’ve taken more. But most of our growth has been organic. It’s primarily consumers who are vot ing with their wallet in stores. While our retailers most likely still have to introduce Ara—our unofficial tag line in North America has been: “Quite possibly the most comfortable shoe you’ve never heard of”—once they get a pair on a customer’s feet, the sale is usually complete. Ara shoes look and feel very good. Another factor contributing to the brand’s success is stability. We’re consistent when it comes to quality and customer service. We’ve built strong relationships with our retail partners. So our business is growing not so much because of mistakes by others as much as it’s our years of consistently delivering high-quality shoes that are extremely comfortable and stylish. So it’s really up to us on how well we all continue to do our jobs and keep our promises to our retailers. I wear all those commitments on my sleeve. We may not be able to meet them all. For example, it’s hard to forecast a 200 percent increase on a category. But any we miss; we’ll acknowledge and try to remedy.
our partners. I’m fortunate to work for a company where the family ownership appreciates and values a long-term customer vision. We stand behind our work. If there’s an issue, we’ll make it right.
Well, you get more bees with honey, and over delivering is a Golden Rule of doing business the right way.
I agree! I always try to under promise and over deliver. Of course, our shoes must sell at retail, no question. Even with our best relationships, two seasons of poor sales and they’d be kicking us out the door. Our enthusiasm only goes so far. We must deliver great products. Fortunately, we are. So being able to make great shoes, delivered on time… these are luxury problems. I’m not complaining.
What is your outlook for next year and beyond?
Any anecdotes of that in action?
Just recently we shipped shoes to Footwear Etc. in California earlier than we should have. My mistake. Long story short, they kept the boots and stored them in the basement of one of their locations that then flooded. It ruined many of the boxes. So I told our warehouse to overnight new boxes with the correct labels and fresh tissue paper inside. That’s what Ara does, whereas a lot of brands wouldn’t have done anything to compensate for that loss. But I believe the $600 spent to ship empty boxes will come back many fold in
One-stop shopping: Ara’s Spring/Summer ’25 collection spans dress, casual, and athletic.
Our future is incredibly bright. Once we get our marketing strategy fully developed, there’s no telling what Ara can become in this market. On that note, we’re not just a “comfort” brand. We’re a fashion comfort brand, and that’s where our biggest opportunity lies. Comfort is a dime a dozen. A $29 sandal can offer a tremendous amount of comfort. We have to also promote that we offer
The Mariana technical walking shoe.
Q&A
THE GOOD LIFE
Sam Spears reflects on a footwear career well-lived.
As a young kid growing up in Tulsa, OK, Sam Spears dreamt of driving tractor trailers one day for a living. He was enthralled with the big rigs, often drawing detailed sketches of them. Then, during high school, he aimed higher, dreaming of attending the U.S. Airforce Academy to become a fighter pilot. He drew plenty of precise sketches of jets, too. Alas, his high school aptitude test determined that he was better suited to serve as a firefighter. Spears, instead, enrolled at the University of Tulsa with aims of becoming an ad executive.
“I thought David Ogilvy was the coolest guy on the planet,” Spears says. “I read every book I could find about him and his agency.”
How did Spears go from wanting to work on Madison Avenue to a life in the shoe industry?
“Purely by accident.” Spears followed a girlfriend to St. Louis after graduation and, after many job interviews, landed a position at Junior Achievement USA. There he wrangled local executives to educate junior high kids about how to make it in the business world. One such exec was Elliott Schwartz, president of Kangaroos footwear.
“I hounded the poor man for months to teach a class,” Spears recalls. “Finally, one day I got up the courage to ask, ‘What would it take for a guy with an advertising degree to work for your company?’”
In a matter of weeks, Spears was working in Kangaroos’ marketing department designing poster concepts. Not long after, Schwartz asked Spears if he’d ever designed a shoe. Spears said no but wisely added that he thought he could. “The next thing I knew, I was sent to South Korea for three months to learn how to design shoes that could be mass manufactured,” Spears says. “That’s how I got into the shoe industry. Elliott Schwartz took a chance on me. The rest is history, more or less.”
It’s an extensive history. Over the past three-plus decades, Spears has worked in nearly all facets of the industry—including the athletic, comfort, outdoor, golf, dress, and western markets. He has held 19 positions, with stops in Missouri, New Jersey, Connecticut, England, New Hampshire, Denmark, Switzerland, and Oklahoma. He has worked for powerhouse brands and legendary shoe dogs: Ecco/Karl Toosbuy, Pentland Group/
Stephen Rubin, Ariat/Beth Cross, and Keen/ Rory Fuerst, to name a few. He has introduced breakthrough shoe concepts (Ecco’s Receptor series), created noteworthy marketing campaigns, and designed shoes (Pony) for NFL, NBA, and MLB stars. Spears is a jack-of-all-trades executive, with a collection of vivid and cherished memories of an impressive career.
Oh, the stories Spears can tell! There was the time he and his wife vacationed with New York Giants great Carl Banks and his wife in Portugal while working together at Pony. There’s also his three-year stint at the then high-flying Starter. The company’s New Haven, CT, headquarters was a revolving door of sports and Hollywood stars. There was also the time Spears visited a Copenhagen biomechanics university to meet the scientist who developed the Receptor technology. His work led him deep into a basement lab where human feet, donated for medical research, were being tested on a machine to measure the effects of downward force. “He replicated the force impact from just a first floor drop onto soft ground,” Spears recalls. “Thankfully, he had me don safety glasses and a lab coat because fat tissue hit me in the chest from the force of the landing. I turned every shade of green, but I saw that the science was real, and I was hooked. I thought instantly that Receptor could be the next big thing in shoes.”
Spears has excellent shoe instincts. Perhaps it was industry destiny, as he was a three-sport athlete during high school and a self-described sneakerhead. “I’ve always loved sneakers; I must have had 30 to 40 pairs, including my cleats,” he says. “In the back of my mind, I always thought it’d be cool to work for a sneaker company.”
Dream fulfilled and then some. Spears radiates love and enthusiasm for the business—the product, people, and pace. He takes none of it for granted, and he’s quick to acknowledge his coworkers’ role in every success he has had. He considers himself fortunate to have been invited into this “incredible” industry 36 years ago. And the past eight years as president of Ara North America is the cherry on top. The best, he believes, is yet to come. Meanwhile, Spears continues to have the time of his life. “Look, I’m a bonehead kid from Oklahoma. I should be digging ditches for a living.” —G.D.
shoes for every aspect of a woman’s lifestyle. If she is traveling, we have the only shoe she needs. It’s casual yet dressy enough and comfortable. The Ara woman doesn’t want to look like the nanny or a granny. She wants a little more exclusivity and sophisticated style.
What is your top goal for next year?
It’s something that you can’t really measure, but it’s to maintain the positive energy level that we now have at retail and at shows. It’s not easy to build that level of energy, and I, again, give great credit to our sales team for making that happen. Part of that requires working months in advance to book appointments, and the willingness to work until closing every day at shows. They don’t just show up and speak with whomever might pass by. That’s a recipe for disaster.
Where do you envision Ara North America in three years?
That’s what keeps me up at night—making sure we meet our full potential. We can only plan and execute what Germany is able to fulfill. For example, we can make a great sandal, but if we deliver it too late, then we’ll lose a huge chunk of potential sales. But if we ship it in November to the Sun Belt, then we can increase sales. Again, these are luxury problems.
What do you love most about your job?
Almost every day is like Christmas; you never know what surprises might come. It’s a very dynamic job. We’re small enough as a division that I’m involved in every aspect with the exception of answering phones in customer service. I enjoy that variety. I also love interacting with retailers customers at our events. Dare I say, I’m the world’s greatest clean-up man. I can re-tissue shoes, put them back in a box, and back on a shelf better and faster than anyone. That’s my “official” job at these events. But I just love meeting our customers and consumers. If you just listen, they’ll share so much about what they want, need, and love about shoes. That interaction is priceless.
You seem happy and content leading Ara North America.
I have no plans to go anywhere. I love my staff. I’m also incredibly loyal to Frank Lüttig, our head of sales and who I worked with at Ecco prior, and Patrick Roseler, our chairman. I just enjoy what I’m doing. I’m extremely fortunate. To circle back to my high school aptitude test that suggested I become a fireman, I realize now that I am one. I’m always putting out fires, and I love the pace and excitement. I also love challenges, and I love to build. We’re growing fast because our demand is so strong. Thus, any problems that may arise are for all the right reasons. •
CAGE RAGE
The classic silhouette, a.k.a. the fisherman sandal, remains on the style menu.
Free People
BEST IN SHOW
The passing of Danny Wasserman, owner of Tip Top Shoes in New York, has left an industry void that may never be filled. By
Greg Dutter
There are many breeds of shoe dogs, all varying pedigrees. But there might never again be a purebred like Danny Wasserman. The man had a nose for shoes, merchandising, buying, brands, marketing, customers, inventory, trends…you name it. He was a bloodhound in his uncanny ability to discover the next big shoe/brand, and a bulldog in keeping his 60-year-old, family-owned-and-operated business (Tip Tops Shoes, Tip Top Shoes Kids, and West NYC) thriving on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. Wasserman also had Golden Retriever qualities: He was friendly, funny, and fiercely loyal. Above all, he exhibited a pack mentality, firmly believing that the industry was in this together. He would gladly offer insights and assistance, tapping his wealth of industry knowledge to help anyone who asked—and often those who didn’t. On the flipside, he continually sought the opinions and wisdom of others. There was always more to sniff out, more to learn, and Wasserman was ever doggedly in pursuit. It was 365, 24-7. That was just how the man was wired. He loved every aspect of the footwear business. After exchanging pleasantries, Wasserman’s next question invariably would be: So, have you seen anything new or interesting?
“Danny lived this business,” says CNCPTS owner Tarek Hassan, who considered Wasserman a trusted colleague and dear friend of nearly 40 years. “He didn’t just understand brands and products; he understood people, too. He knew his customers and community. He understood what the market needed and what was trending. He had a great vision about what was going to happen and what would work.” Hassan adds, “There aren’t
many people left in this industry as dialed into the business as Danny was.”
Sam Spears, president of Ara North America, deemed Wasserman the ultimate product maven with an “impeccable” eye. “His years in the industry, his hours spent every day in his store working with customers made him such,” Spears says. “Combine that with his honesty and, sometimes very frank way of communication, and he wasn’t just a shoe dog but an Alpha shoe dog.”
Robert Greenberg, CEO of Skechers, says Wasserman was the shoe business. “Danny’s passion for product was always so precise,” he says. “He was a legend in the shoe world—bigger than people who run hundreds of stores.”
In addition to being “omnipresent” in his stores, what made Wasserman unique was his array of exceptional talents, says Bruce Kaplan, CRO of Impo Intl. Kaplan likens him to a five-tool player in baseball, with the rare ability to hit for average and power, field and run well, and possess great arm strength. “Danny was a five-tool retailer. He had a great eye for product, a firm grasp of marketing, the ability to anticipate and react to trends, he was terrific with numbers, and, from a human resources standpoint, he was so caring of the people who worked for him,” Kaplan says, noting that Tip Top Shoes has one of the lowest employee turnover rates in the industry. Above all, Kaplan says, Wasserman was a gentleman. “He could speak intelligently and quickly about all relevant industry matters but, in the 30 years that I knew him, I never heard him raise his voice once.”
David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, singles out Wasserman’s uncanny ability to see the shoe future. Tip Top Shoes was one of the first accounts to carry the brand in the U.S., beginning on the heels of Woodstock. “Danny introduced Birkenstock to New York and has since put
All in the Tip Top Shoes family: Margot, Danny, and Lester Wasserman.
tens of thousands of locals and tourists from around the world into our products, along with many celebrities,” Kahan says. That includes selling Yoko Ono a pair that she bought for John Lennon. “During Covid, Danny and (his son) Lester set up a table outside the store and sold Birkenstocks to passersby. Where there was a will, Danny always found a way.” Above all, Kahan considered Wasserman a valued mentor and cherished friend. “I don’t think a week has gone by in more than 20 years that I didn’t talk or text with him multiple times,” he says. “I’m going to miss him dearly.”
The Shoe Whisperer
Execs share some of their favorite memories of what made Danny Wasserman a shoe retailer like no other.
NSRA PRESIDENT MARK DENKLER’S first brush with shoe retailing “greatness,” a.k.a. Danny Wasserman, came by happenstance. It was almost 30 years ago when he randomly sat next to the owner of Tip Top Shoes during one of the organization’s Education Events at a WSA Show in Las Vegas. Denkler was new to the business and had no idea who Wasserman was, but a long-lasting mentorship/friendship ensued.
“We joked then that my Florida customer was also his, so I needed to sell them shoes in the spring before they headed back to New York to shop his store,” Denkler recalls. “He also spoke of the Euro trend and told me to capitalize on it.”
Then, Denkler says, came a coveted tip that few knew. Wasserman explained to Denkler how he could stock less inventory, six sizes (from 36 to 41), versus the normal 12 sizes (from 5 to 11 including half sizes), which would increase cash flow but still allow him to concentrate on the “guts” of the business. “We added Naot, Mephisto, and Ecco shortly thereafter and it was one of the best decisions we ever made,” he says, adding that Wasserman’s keen eye for product made him someone to emulate. “I’d always check his product list to make sure my store kept up with the latest trends,” Denkler says, adding, “He’ll be missed as a gentleman, a legendary shoe dog, and an NSRA board member for 27 years.”
Spears says Ara owes a similar debt of gratitude to Wasserman. The retailer had an eye for quality and quickly became a fan when the brand entered the U.S market in the ’90s. “He and his staff introduced Ara to a lot of consumers who had not heard of us but now are lifelong brand ambassadors,” Spears says. “He knew Ara would provide what his customers wanted and needed, and that would keep them coming back to Tip Top for more.” Spears adds, “So many brands owe so much to him. All of us are better because of him.”
For Gary Champion, president of Clarks Americas, the mentorship/friendship with Wasserman stretches back 34 years. Wasserman basically introduced him to the industry. “Danny took time to share his extensive knowledge around merchandising, design, competitors’ strengths, and where Clarks’ opportunities lay,” Champion recalls. Then there were the invaluable product and branding tutorials Danny gave while walking trade shows with Champion over the years. “He’s a terrific product person. He listened to his customers and translated that knowledge into influencing brand design, last shapes, material offerings, and size ranges,” he says. “Danny knew the shoe business inside and out, and he was a hell of a merchant.” Above all, Champion
Gary Hauss, director of the IR Show and a longtime retailer, recalls another valuable tip he got from Wasserman. Back when they first met in the late ’90s, Wasserman told Hauss about using credit cards to pay bills. “This was way before anyone knew about that,” Hauss recalls. “Danny said: ‘Do you know how many trips I’ve taken and never paid for other than using points?!” Hauss adds, “Danny was always thinking ahead. We’ve just lost him, and he’s already greatly missed.”
Tarek Hassan, owner of CNCPTS, fondly recalls the many meetings he attended with Wasserman in showrooms and booths in New York, Las Vegas, and Europe. Wasserman would often pick up a shoe and move parts around, suggesting to the CEO and designers what they might be missing. “Fifteen minutes with Danny and you’d be schooled on everything that was right and wrong,” Hassan says, adding, “When Danny spoke, brands listened—and took notes.” Hassan absorbed all he could from the professor, including how he viewed product, did buys, focused on customers’ needs, looked for the latest trends, etc. “He was an incredible mentor. Danny played a huge part in the retailer I am today,” Hassan says.
Skechers CEO Robert Greenberg attended many meetings where Wasserman held court. “He was charming and seemed to love telling me what I could do better,” he laughs. “No matter how busy he was, he always had time to chit chat, and he loved hearing a good joke! We will all miss him, but just to think about him is a smile.”
Ayelet Lax Levy, president of U.S. operations for Naot, has the unique perspective of not only selling shoes to Wasserman, but also selling shoes for Tip Top during her college years. He was a great mentor on both sides of the coin. “I learned how to fit a shoe, how a stockroom works, how to greet customers, etc.,” she says, noting that he treated the staff like family. She recalls a memorable night was around the time Wasserman’s son, Lester, was getting married. Wasserman closed the store early and took the staff to his family’s favorite Italian restaurant. “It’s just how Danny was; he made everyone feel important and respected,” Lax Levy says. “His store is a destination, which isn’t easy to do in New York. He navigated through many storms and built a business to last, but he always did it with an underlying smile.”
Of the countless meetings with Wasserman, Impo Intl. CRO Bruce Kaplan’s favorite was his last. It took place this past August. Before catching a flight, he popped into Tip Top, as he often did. He and Wasserman talked for an hour. “As always, we picked up right where we left off. We talked, argued, and laughed,” Kaplan says. In particular, they talked about the impact AI will have on the industry. “He made me put some AI apps on his phone and show him how they worked,” Kaplan says. “I almost missed my flight, and now I wish I had. I, along with this industry, will miss him terribly.” —G.D.
“Danny had an incredible gift for identifying great product and the potential in brands...He was a masterful retailer.”
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Justin Orrell-Jones, president/CEO Finn Comfort USA.
says Wasserman was a terrific human being. “Danny was kindhearted, compassionate, would always ask how you were doing and care about your answer, and was always offering a hand,” he says.
Rusty Hall, CEO of Mephisto USA, says Wasserman’s incredible talent as a sounding board was a cornerstone of the brand’s long-running partnership with Tip Top Shoes. “He always spoke his mind, but you never felt that it was personal,” Hall says. “Danny just wanted to make you better.” He adds that Wasserman had his finger on the pulse of the business in New York and beyond. He was nothing short of a shoe oracle. “I’ll miss our touch-base conversations where he would often suggest, ‘Have you thought about this?’” Hall says. “He was so often spot-on. Our industry will miss Danny’s presence. I will, for sure.”
Steve Lax, former CEO of Naot, believes Wasserman was a wannabe shoe designer at heart. “He always had a suggestion on how to change our shoes,” he laughs. Wasserman’s suggestions were usually insightful. Lax notes that Tip Top was one of the first retailers to carry Naot, starting in 1989. He saw big potential before anyone else. “Danny always had room for Naot in his store, and he loved that he could order at 3 p.m. and the shoes would be in his store the next morning,” Lax says. Since moving to the neighborhood about 15 years ago, Lax has been a regular visitor to Tip Top Shoes to check in with Wasserman and talk about life and, of course, shoes. “He was a friend, and he will be missed,” he says.
Ditto for Justin Orrell-Jones, president/CEO Finn Comfort USA. Since 1995, he has enjoyed invaluable one-on-one time talking shop with Wasserman. He’ll miss “the dinner conversations, sitting with him across from the men’s wall in Tip Top, and even the occasional chastisement,” Orrell-Jones recalls. “Danny had an incredible gift for identifying great product and the potential in brands. He could suggest adjustments to a shoe that were invariably an improvement and always on-brand.” He adds, “He was a masterful retailer. He bought the right shoes and reordered what he should, when he should. He knew the state of his backroom. He even knew where to find something on his desk!” •
Dr. Scholl’s is All Smiles
SmileyWorld collab celebrates the brand’s 100th anniversary.
THINK POSITIVE AND smile as often as possible. That’s the basis of Dr. Scholl’s limited-edition collection with SmileyWorld, and the last in its series of 100th anniversary collabs this year.
“We couldn’t think of a better way to wrap up our milestone year than with the icon of positivity like SmileyWorld,” says Jen Wiley, senior director, Brand Marketing & Creative for Dr. Scholl’s Shoes, a division of Caleres. “This collection celebrates positivity and originality. It brings feel-good fashion to the whole family, marking our first collaboration beyond women’s.”
Wiley reports that the series has been a big hit, having generated sales amongst fans of the brand as well as attracted new ones. Each of the collaborations connected the brand to consumers in unique ways. For example, the one with Iris Apfel was the first Dr. Scholl’s collab beyond its Original Sandal. “It was exciting to see the other silhouettes, particularly the Time Off sneaker, get such a great response from customers,” she says. “And to celebrate what would have been Iris’ 103rd birthday with such a unique collab inspired by materials from her archives was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Consumers really gravitated toward the prints and special touches of the collection.”
As for the collab with Free People, released last spring, Wiley says it was timed perfectly to festival season. “Free People is such an icon of festival culture,” she says. “And now extending our collabs to the full family with SmileyWorld is another big moment for us, as well as a fun giftable moment for the holidays.”
The SmileyWorld collection is available (SRP: $35-$85) on Dr. Scholl’s DTC site as well as at Famous Footwear stores and online.
Clockwise from top: SmileyWorld, Free People, and Iris Apfel collabs.
BOTTOMS UP
Guys, it’s all about the gum rubber soles.
Under Armour
Gola
On the Run
San Francisco
T ALL STARTED 47 years ago with an ill-fitting pair of running shoes. That’s what prompted On the Run founder Mark Wachter to open his San Francisco foot health format in 1977.
As footwear industry lore goes, Wachter was inspired by the running boom of the ’70s while working at his sister Luba’s women’s clothing store. He ventured to a shop nearby to buy his very first pair of running shoes. Alas, the sales associate lacked knowledge about shoes and feet. Wachter’s new kicks didn’t fit properly and caused him pain. He decided he could do (a lot) better. He opened On the Run based on the premise of—and passion for—delivering top notch customer service that would genuinely improve lives.
Wachter took his dedication to customers’ foot health to the next level by manufacturing his own brand of hand-crafted orthotics imported from Germany and Poland. As the store’s website states, the orthotics are doctor recommended and “unique in their ability to be customized to fit your specific needs.” On the Run carries running brands such as Brooks, Hoka, New Balance, and Saucony, along with comfort leaders like Birkenstock, Dansko, and Taos. Customers receive skilled and attentive service from the store’s shoe specialists, who are trained in the biomechanics of the foot and ankle.
Sadly, Wachter passed away in 2023, but On the Run’s solid reputation lives on as a testament to his strong business intuition and his passion for helping customers find the right shoe for whatever their activities. It’s just like the store’s tag line reads: Walk, run, hike, play, live. “Our founder was as dedicated and visionary a person as they come,” says Sid Burger, COO. “We’re working very hard to maintain his legacy.” —Kiernan McCormick
Who is your top-selling brand this year? Brooks. The best styles are the Beast and Ariel.
What is the best new brand that you’ve added to your mix recently? Altra.
How important are the non-running footwear brands to your business, and might that segment be growing? It’s a very important segment. It probably makes up 30 to 40 percent of our business. It’s slightly growing.
What are your top-selling non-footwear items? Our own orthotics.
What can customers experience in your store they won’t likely elsewhere? We’ve been around 47 years, and we put the customer first. Our objective is to greet them, seat them, measure their feet, and give them the full, old-fashioned experience with the expertise from our sales staff to fit them properly in shoes and orthotics, if they need them. We strive to provide the red-carpet treatment of making them feel really great, happy, and comfortable.
Who is your core customer? It’s skewed a little bit more toward women. Our age group is primarily 45 and up. Our customer base includes a lot of people that have foot pain and discomfort, and who come to us for solutions.
How does fit, brand, style, and price rank in order of importance for your customers? Fit, brand, price, style. Price is not a big factor in our store. Regarding style, there are customers who have color or style preferences, but when we fit someone with the right shoe, in the right size, the vast majority of the time, they say, “Wow, thanks very much.”
How’s business this year in general? We’re ahead a little bit. Last year was an enormous year for us, so
being ahead a little bit this year is pretty satisfying.
How might the presidential election be impacting your business? Election years often create their own challenges. But I don’t think that there’s been a significant impact one way or the other from the election, so far.
What is the smartest business decision you’ve made this year? All of our decisions have been smart. We haven’t done anything dramatically different this year than in past. We’re very focused on our core principles, and we’re sticking to that.
What are your top goals right now? As always, our top goal is to help customers.
Where do you envision On the Run in three years? On the same path we’re on now. Modest growth while continuing to uphold our standards and taking care of our customers. Our path is very simple. It’s the old-fashioned way. We treat people with respect, care, and concern. As long as you treat your customers that way, they’re going to remain loyal and share their experience with their friends and family so that we grow organically.
What are you most proud of regarding your business? That we’ve been around for 47 years and continue to be successful and help people.
The City by the Bay fit destination is conveniently located a short jog from beautiful Golden Gate Park.
Ted’s Shoe & Sport
Keene, NH
TED’S SHOE & SPORT owner
Ted McGreer’s penchant for comfortable performance footwear dates to his childhood in New Hampshire. He grew up skiing, snowboarding, and cycling, and in 1991, took his talents to Dillon, CO, to improve his triathlon, ski racing, and competitive cycling skills. The right equipment—starting with the optimum fit—was a must.
While training at altitude, McGreer worked a side hustle as manager of a local sporting goods store. He became a master ski and snowboard boot fitter. (Little did he know then that it’d be the seeds to a life-long career.) He educated himself on the science of foot and ankle anatomy. He worked with U.S. Development Ski Team and athletes of various sports recovering from surgery. Then, in 1996, McGreer moved back to his home state to manage a specialty running store in Keene. Amid the region’s flood of big box stores, he noticed a need for quality, personalized service and, in 2000, opened his shop in the heart of downtown.
Ted’s features an array of leading running brands, including Asics, On, Hoka, New Balance, and Brooks as well as comfort brands such as Birkenstock, OluKai, Dansko, and Vionic. The all-about-the-fit mix appeals to a broad range of customers who seek relief and support for their feet, regardless of their fitness level. To that end, McGreer also sells his own line of footbeds, conducts free needs assessments with each customer to ensure proper fittings, and requires staff to participate in about 300 hours of training with podiatrists before they can work on the floor.
McGreer credits much of his store’s success and longevity to this level of customer care. “Our quality service builds a lot of long-term relationships with our customers and our community because we want to be a good corporate citizen,” he says. “We give a lot back, and our service levels have created a hugely popular reputation for our company.” —K.M.
Who are your top selling brands this year? Hoka and On.
Is there a best brand? The best brands are the ones that support us as it relates to access to goods, affordable shipping, and getting the product delivered fast. Brooks, Hoka, and Saucony of late
have been fantastic with great prices, like under $2 a pair to get shoes here, and they ship the same day. That customer service level is what makes me wrap my arms around a brand.
What are your top selling non-footwear items? Ted’s footbeds. We probably sell a pair for every 1.5 pair of shoes.
What can customers experience in your store that they won’t likely elsewhere? It comes down to old-fashioned, sit-and-fit service. We try to take that one step further by providing full-fledged needs assessments. I want to know what you’re using shoes to do and on what surface, any injuries, if you wear orthotics, etc. We want to listen to all factors in order to properly find footwear that matches your unique foot type. You can’t get this type of service online or in box stores.
Who is your core customer? Fifty percent is runners and fitness enthusiasts. Many are training for half and full marathons. We also cater to a lot of people coming back from injuries. The other side of our business is medical referrals. Physical therapists, chiropractors, and podiatrists from New Hampshire, Vermont, and Massachusetts send patients to us. We know as much about diabetic and arthritic footwear as we do running footwear. We’re working with one year olds up to 98 year olds.
Is there anything unique about the Ted’s customer? Our area is the last in and the last out of any trend. It took three years for white shoes to trend here. So do I buy them for next spring, realizing it’s probably not trending elsewhere? I probably will, because it takes us forever to get out of those trends.
How does fit, brand, style, and price rank in order of importance for your customers? Fit, style, brand, price.
How’s business this year in general? We’re up over last year. Nearly 25 years in, this will be our best year ever. It entails a similar number of transactions and traffic. But prices across the board have increased, so that’s a contributing factor. Our average ticket is up because of the higher cost of merchandise.
Any surprises this year, good or bad? We’re starting to see a lot more of our wholesale partners realize how important the brick-and-mortar channel is to their business. They’re doing a lot of decent partnerships as it relates to helping us maintain our customer base. It’s nice that they recognize what we do and want to support that.
What are your current top goals? I want employees who are committed, as I take care of them, to stay here long term. And who doesn’t like to see more revenue growth? I’d also like to see us grow our online business, and I’d like to do more community initiatives where we collaborate with local organizations to provide footwear to children in need.
What are you most proud of regarding Ted’s? That I’ve created a successful retail business that also manufactures footbeds that are sold all over the world. I’m also proud that we remained open during the pandemic. But I ultimately measure success with how much time I can spend with my family. I have great life balance. I work out, visit my children in college, and can trust my staff to hold down the fort. I define that as success.
Good times: Owner Ted McGreer says 2024 will be the best year in the store’s 24-year history.
Beckett Simonon leather and suede tennies.
Low profile sneakers by Scotch & Soda Opposite page: Bared trainers with plant-based, contoured footbeds.
Clockwise from top right: Naturalizer platform mule; suede/leather jogger by Regarde Le Ceil; leather tennie by Vionic; trainer with shock-absorbing midsole by Mephisto Opposite page: Rieker metallic leather soccer sneakers.
Dr. Scholl’s tennie with recycled pastic upper. Opposite page: vegan leather trainers by Mia Shoes
Metallic soccer kicks by Blowfish Malibu Opposite page: Remonte side zip court sneaker.
Above, from top: 100 percent sustainable tennie by Nothing New; bejeweled trainer by Mjus; platform by Gabor; Kuru court sneaker with contoured footbed. Right: suede/metallic leather trainers by Bos. & Co. Opposite page: Gola suede trainer.
Clarks nubuck/suede tennies. Opposite page: court sneakers with velcro closure by Ryka
Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; models: Nubia Santos/Major Model Mgmt., Ana Barbosa/ Supreme Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Stephania Parent/Next Artists; photo assistant Raymond Collette; photo and styling assistant: Nellyfer Espinsoa.
Defining Ortho Chic
Lindsey Carmichael, founder of Soleni Shoes, combines a pain-free construction with sophisticated styling. By Greg Dutter
AS AN ORTHOPEDIC physician assistant of more than 10 years, Lindsey Carmichael sees a myriad of women’s foot-related health problems on a daily basis. There is simply too much pain and suffering, which is often due in part to ill-fitting and poorly designed shoes. She decided to do something about it, embarking on a second career as founder of Soleni Shoes and led by its trademarked three-point ortho-technology that provides optimal fit and comfort along with sophisticated styling.
“I saw the need, both in my patients and myself,” says Carmichael, a former college basketball player who has suffered through six knee surgeries and later developed bunions and plantar fasciitis with the onset of pregnancy. “I know there’s a gap in the market for comfortable, functional, and stylish footwear, and given my unique background, I thought I’d create something better.”
Better starts with the three-point ortho-technology, dubbed Soleni Solace. It includes an almond-shaped toe box to accommodate wider widths, a deep heel cup, and removable contoured footbeds. The latter, she says, helps alleviate “bread-and-butter” orthopedic foot issues, as well as assists with mechanical alignment. Other features include all leather interiors and firm PU midsoles for support and structure. (The shoes can’t fold in half.) The bonus, Carmichael says, is Soleni’s aesthetic appeal. “They don’t look orthopedic,” she says, describing it as ortho chic. “One of our slogans is ‘orthopedic comfort without the orthopedic look.’”
The collection currently consists of flats (SRP: $225). Loafers are in the pipeline for next spring. Boots are on tap for next fall. “Our suede loafers feature metal bits,” she says. “We’re also adding pops of color, like emerald and shades of pink, to go along with black for those who need a uniform look.”
Soleni is sourced in a small factory in China. “The quality is unmatched, and the factory has been so great in working with us to Soleni get off the ground,” Carmichael says, adding that Torrent Concepts is her development partner. She is involved in design, development, and commercialization. “At times, it’s overwhelming because I’m also running sales, marketing, social media, wholesaling, QuickBooks, Shopify, and more!” she says.
The heavy workload comes with the start-up territory. Carmichael is committed to bringing her vision to life. She believes in her product because, for starters, she’s a customer. “I’m a busy working mom of young children; I believe many women can relate to my aches and pains of daily life,” she says, adding, “I don’t want Soleni to be just another shoe brand. I want us to be a movement that represents empowerment and confidence, and that women don’t have to suffer pain to feel beautiful and successful.”
How might your outsider industry perspective be an asset? The number of interactions I have with women in my ortho clinic has given be unique insight.
I’m definitely not alone in my joint pain. My perspective is to first let women know that it’s not normal to live with pain and that the right-fitting shoes can help alleviate that pain. That’s where Soleni Shoes comes into play.
Who is Soleni’s target customer? She’s a busy woman who spends most of her time on her feet, whether that’s as a mom, on the job, or both. She’s probably 35 to 60 years old and may suffer from some mild orthopedic pain involving her hips, knees, ankles, and feet. She may also suffer from plantar fasciitis, heel spurs, flat arches, and bunions.
How big might this market be in the U.S.? About 20 years ago, an American Academy of Orthopedic Surgeons study stated that up to 85 percent of women have changed their footwear purchasing habits due to ongoing foot pain. Currently, one in three women suffer from some form of foot-related pain. Our goal is to reach these 110 million women in the U.S., and then expand globally.
How’s business? Pretty good since we launched in December 2023. We’ve had tremendous feedback from customers. We’ve run some DTC advertising on social media, which has been quite successful. We also want to expand more into wholesale. We did our first two shows this year and look forward to participating in more in 2025. In five years, I want to retire as a physician assistant and make shoes full-time. I’m planning to raise another round of funding to fuel our expansion and growth.
What are you most proud of about Soleni? That we got to market! When I got the basic idea to pursue a footwear startup, I hopped a plane to Portland, OR, to attend a materials show. I was completely overwhelmed. I started without knowing anyone or anything about footwear development. There have been many times that I didn’t think we could do it. Yet here we are! It’s something to celebrate when people actually invest money in your creation.
What’s the best business advice you’ve ever received? Don’t quit but also know when it’s time to quit. It sounds counter intuitive, but entrepreneurs will understand this.
Who are some designers you admire? Taryn Rose is an inspiration. She changed the industry with her fashionable designs and orthopedic knowledge. Also, Sara Blakely (founder of Spanx and Sneex) is a bad ass trailblazer in fashion. She’s a constant reminder of what women can do.
What do you love most about designing shoes? The creativity aspect, hands down. I get to use my knowledge in orthopedics and implement that into the design and function of each style. It’s fun to make new ideas come to life.
Lindsey Carmichael: the smile behind the style.
DREAM CATCHER
Ayelet Lax Levy, president of U.S. operations of Naot, reflects on the power of family and eternal optimism.
DEAR AYELET…I feel too young to be writing this letter to you. When I look in the mirror, I still see the same 25-year-old you, bursting with passion for design, shoes, and a hunger to take on the world. Sometimes it’s hard to see all that you’ve become over the past two-plus decades, which includes manager of a leading comfort shoe brand in the U.S., designer of a eponymous label, mother of two incredible children, and a wife of a great husband, coworker, and friend in that reflection. You’ve come a long way! Through it all, I’ve tried to hold onto your relentless optimism, even as the world now feels heavy and scary.
The ’90s are your formative years—a time when the world feels on the verge of something beautiful. Peace, it seems, is within reach, and the possibilities of the new millennium appear endless. That flower child you are, sadly, will be bewildered by today’s world, where division, fear, and war often overshadow hope. Remember when you were an 18-year-old peace activist brimming with idealism and the belief that we could all coexist in harmony? I’m sure she would demand our current leaders do more to make the world a better place. Demand nothing less.
World affairs aside, I’m pleased to inform you that you love your job, cowokers, and customers. It’s a charmed career, which really kicked off at age 10. Remember the bustling flea markets, where you sold home made jewelry and T-shirts while Mom and Dad introduced Naot shoes to the United States? Your wares often sold out quickly, allowing you to duck under the table with your little sister and escape into a world of play. Sometimes, you’d re-emerge, pretending to be a model in store windows, posing to attract passersby to admire the shoes Mom and Dad had unpacked from the back of our wood-paneled station wagon.
Shoes, when you spent hours at M&J Trimming in search of the perfect ornament to present at design meetings. The excitement of finding just the right piece and imagining the life it would bring to those shoes…that feeling never gets old! Alas, that mecca of trimmings just closed after nearly 100 years in business. So remember to appreciate the places and experiences that you help shape you. They all won’t last forever, and oftentimes what replaces it is more fleeting and less tangible.
Now and then: Aylet Lax Levy and with younger sister Yonit.
Change is constant. But a little heads up: the pace and extent of the change that awaits you is unimaginable. Be prepared. Like, for example, you’ll be tethered to a handheld device that not only transforms how everyone communicates, but how we live, work, and dream. Change, while often difficult, is also how you learn and grow. So roll with them as best you can but hold onto your core—the things that make you whole.
Here’s some more advice: As a young mother, in your early 30s, put that smartphone down and play more with your kids! You don’t get those moments back. Stop measuring success by the pace of everyone around you. Hire good people, surround yourself with kindness, and remember that when you do business with people who share your values, work feels like play.
Those formative years are where you learn what it means to work as a family—the hustle, long hours, and unspoken understanding that running your own business requires giving your heart and soul. Those early years, though, weren’t just about selling shoes; they were about finding joy and pride in the small victories and discovering that the strength of family is at the core of everything we do. Don’t ever forget that. Family is everything.
Of course, our family graduated from flea markets to Naot becoming a cornerstone comfort brand sold in top retailers nationwide. We’ve done good! But never lose sight of the hard work that it took to get here. Like the time, as a 20-year-old intern at Donna Karen
Above all, and this goes for every age, keep dreaming! That is the light in what can be a very dark world. That ability to dream leads to you launch Ayelet by Naot, a high-end line of dress yet comfortable shoes. Can you believe it! You’re working with incredible designers, using the finest materials, and in the world’s best factories. Dreams can come true!
A few parting shots: Be patient, not just with others, but with yourself. Timelines are personal, and growth doesn’t always happen like clockwork. Keep pushing, adapting, and growing. And always remember to keep learning. Hold on to your optimism fiercely, because it will be what lifts you when the world feels heavy. Finally, smile more, and don’t forget to hug your family just a little tighter.
Take care, Ayelet
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