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FEATURES
12 Burning Desire Glen Barad, CEO/founder Taos, marks the company’s 20th anniversary with new investors and record growth.
By Greg Dutter
20 Game Changers
Leading Fall/Winter ’25 trends tracked at the Micam show in Milan, Italy.
By Noelle Heffernan
30 It’s a Guy Thing Burly boots take a beating but keep on kicking.
By Kiernan McCormick
DEPARTMENTS
4 Editor’s Note
6 This Just In: Paris
8 Scene & Heard
26 Trend Spotting: Men’s Slippers
27 Trend Spotting: Ballet Flats
28 Trend Spotting: Sneaker Boots
29 A Note to My Younger Self
42 What’s Selling: Men’s Boutiques
44 Upclose Comfort: Quadsis
45 Trend Spotting: Men’s Western
46 Shoe Salon: Highline United
48 Last Shot: Snake Print
On the cover: Georgia Boot waterproof logger boot with safety-toe and Goodyear welt construction; Hawke & Co. jacket; RRL shirt; mnml pants; vintage t-shirt, hat, belt, and hand warmers
Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Michael Macko; fashion editor: Kiernan McCormick; models: Pablo Morias/Q Mgmt., Cale Millen/Soul Artist Mgmt.; photo assistant Raymond Collette; photo and styling assistants: Eileen Viglietta, Nellyfer Espinoza.
MARCH 2025
EDITORIAL
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors
Kiernan McCormick Fashion Editor
Rosemary O’Connell Art Director
Kathy Passero Editor at Large
Mariah Walker Style Director
Ann Loynd Burton Unlaced Editor
Melodie Jeng
Marcy Swingle
Contributing Photographers
ADVERTISING
Noelle Heffernan Publisher
Laurie Guptill Production Manager
Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director
Maria Martucci Office Manager
Mike Hoff Digital Director
WAINSCOT MEDIA
Carroll Dowden Chairman
Mark Dowden President & CEO
Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO
Lizette Chin SVP/Group Publisher
OFFICES
ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL
One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656
Tel: (201) 571-2244
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Editorial: Greg.Dutter@ Wainscotmedia.com
CIRCULATION
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Steel-toe work boots with side zipper easy access and comfort arch footbeds by Blundstone; Hawke & Co. jacket; Taion pants; vintage scarf.
Present Tense
CAN YOU FEEL IT? An air of uncertainty, indecision, and unease hangs over us all like a dense fog. I’m not just talking about our industry, which is mired in murkiness— looming tariffs, high inventories, a shaky economy, and odd weather—that leaves us unsure what the future holds. How do you plan for next season when the previous one was far from normal, and the current one seems even more occluded? The collective cloud of uncertainty at The Atlanta Shoe Market was as real as the fog that shrouded the Cobb Galleria Centre much of that weekend.
Now layer on the broader collective tension sparked by a new administration hellbent on blowing up any sense of normalcy. Right or wrong, and right or left, a wrecking ball is swinging through many of our country’s institutions. The upheaval is real. Disruption is the new black. Until it settles, if ever, there’s a palpable hesitancy in the air. Businesses and consumers are wondering what it all means and what might come next. In the near term, thousands of unemployed government workers might be shopping less, especially if the cost of shoes, eggs, gas, etc. rises.
That’s just the tip of the iceberg. Thousands of Americans recently protested the new administration’s policies through an “economic blackout” that boycotted shopping. A movement that urges consumers to “spend nothing” can’t be good for any retailers. Organizers also have plans for weeklong blackouts of specific retailers, including Amazon and Walmart. Not long ago, AI was the most feared disruptive force in our industry. If consumers decide commerce is the enemy, all bets are off about what sort of disruption that might entail.
Actions have consequences. Even if some of these government cuts are part of a long overdue debt reckoning, the glee expressed by the powers that be about putting thousands of fellow citizens’ lives in financial jeopardy is gross. Why is cruel now cool? Why is helping those less fortunate considered a sign of weakness and someone else’s problem? Ending funding for polio, malaria, nutrition, and HIV programs around the world…seriously? Any near-term savings will likely prove thousands of times more costly in the long run. Why abandon longstanding allies?
The alpha tech bro heading the crusade against government
bloat—and pretty much anything he deems wimpy—has been pounding his chest of late. The Doge Dude is having a moment. I wouldn’t be surprised to see him swinging from the top of the Empire State Building. Meanwhile, everyone must try to stay afloat in the wake of his pink slip posse. Rough seas lie ahead. Boats (i.e. brands) that have already taken on water might sink. Others may run aground. And some might never leave the shipyard. The game of attrition rages on the retail side. Our industry has long since shed any bloat. It’s like we’re binging Ozempic.
But row forward we must. The Atlanta show harbored about 1,800 boats, even if many were dinghy-sized and not exactly seaworthy. Buyer attendance reportedly set a record. Plenty of business was written despite the disruptions and uncertainty. People aren’t going barefoot just yet. Some brands are performing quite well, even if it’s largely a market share battle. Taos, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, is one example. CEO Glen Barad, the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 12), shares many industry insights, including what’s fueling the company’s recent record sales. One key reason might surprise you: Barad believes in the power of independent brick-and-mortar retail to build a brand. There are no shortcuts to the company’s long-term success. He’s all in. Not even temporarily losing his home in the L.A. wildfires stopped him. That’s a must-read part of this survival story!
You’ll find plenty more survivor stories in this issue. Among them are our A Note to My Younger Self series, this time with Birkenstock’s Jacqueline Van Dine (p. 29); What’s Selling profiles of men’s boutiques Garys in L.A. and M Penner in Houston (p. 42); and Shoe Salon profile of Marina Rosin Levine, CEO/designer of Highline United (p. 46). All are industry veterans who’ve weathered plenty of disruptions over the decades, as their unique and successful resumes attest.
Last but not least is our Upclose of newbie Quadsis (p. 44). Industry outsiders Janet Ward and Stephanie Guido have jumped in with both feet on a fresh tween/teenager concept. Welcome! A potentially good idea, backed by hard work and thoughtful execution, deserves a chance to sink or swim. That’s a good reminder for us all. It’s how Nike started. Same for On, Journeys, Ugg, Nordstrom, Birkenstock, etc., etc. It can (still) be done. Such stories are the rays of sunlight we need to burn off this thick fog.
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
Message received: the hot hue sizzled at Paris Fashion Week.
Photography by Melodie Jeng
Best in Show
The Atlanta Shoe Market delivers
yet again.
TO PARAPHRASE THE great New York journalist Jimmy Breslin, there were more than 1,800 brand stories told at The Atlanta Shoe Market and what follows are a handful of them. Before that, though, a couple of stats: Retailer attendance was up 15 percent and exhibitor attendance increased 14 percent, reports Laura ConwellO’Brien, show director.
“This was, hands down, the most successful and best show in my nearly 41 years as Executive Director,” O’Brien says. “The halls were all buzzing with an infectious enthusiasm.”
Of note was the winner of the inaugural “Walk the Floor Challenge” awarded to the retailer who visited the most booths in the adjacent ballrooms and hallways outside the main exhibit area. The $500 prize went to Renee’s Birkenstock Shoes in Parkersburg, WV. “The challenge received a fantastic response,” O’Brien says.
As for the overall mood of attendees, there was positivity mixed with uncertainty. A warm, dry fall resulted in high inventories for many retailers and thus a cautiousness toward buying. Meanwhile, wholesalers are bracing for tariff increases. Layer on the general disruption brought on by the new administration and one can sense the general trepidation about what the next few years might hold. But the show—and the shoe business—went on.
Kevin Bosco, president of Bos. & Co., was excited to introduce a women’s collection of casual sneakers and boots by Ambitious. The Canadian-based company successfully introduced the Portuguese-made brand in men’s a couple of seasons ago. Also making its debut was Fred & Frederico, a new brand by Fortunato O. Frederico, the owner of Fly London, which Bos. & Co. distributes. “It’s an homage to his son who was killed in a car accident 35 years ago,” Bosco says. “It’s fashion outdoor, which has men’s ‘Roots’ and women’s ‘Rocks’ outsoles. It’s technical enough for hiking on trails and around town but also fashionable.” As for the show, Bosco reported solid traffic helped by 55 prebooked appointments. “We had a really good show despite a lot of uncertainty in the air among many buyers,” he says.
Also marking its debut was a Align, a men’s comfort brand by H.H. Brown operating under its Sofft division. Paul Sylvia, brand vice president, says it will launch in 50 Dillard’s doors. He has high expectations for Align. “The men’s business is pretty tough in general, but with more going back to offices we think Align is in step with those dress codes: casual enough but not sneakery,” he says.
Similarly, Tony Adams, president of Hälsa, has high expectations for the comfort brand’s first-ever hands-free booties collection. The exec says it’s in step with women seeking the ease and comfort of sneakers but more polished styling. “These go great with slacks and dressier outfits,” he says, noting that he opened 20 new accounts at the show. “It’s like we’ve opened a Pandora’s box with this collection.”
Marty Rose, North American distributor for All Black, reported a strong reaction to its latest collections, as well. Traffic was steady over the three days with around 60 appointments booked in 20-minute intervals. “We had a fantastic show,” he says. “Our fur-lined Mod clogs in dark colors, along with our Mod Ankle Janes and Mary Janes, pumps, and loafers all performed very well.”
Hot commodities at Vaneli included casual sneakers, loafers, and driving mocs, reports Todd Wolff, president of Wolff Shoe Company. “The show was very good; we were eight deep with customers at times,” he says. “Our price-value ratio is unbelievable, and our styling—materials, colors, and embellishments—are spot-on.”
Glen Barad, CEO of Taos, says there is no other show like Atlanta. “It’s just so well run and the most cost-effective show,” he says, noting the brand, celebrating its 20th anniversary (see Q&A p. 12), might need to expand its booth to accommodate the appointments load. “We had a great reaction to our Plimsole Lux sneakers and Showman sandals collections.“
Exhibitor registration for the upcoming Aug. 9-11 show can be done at atlatashoemarket.com beginning Mar. 10th. O’Brien advises brands to sign up early as spots are expected to sell out within weeks with a long wait list once again.
Dansko
Sanctuary
Rieker
Vaneli
All Black
Taos
Fred & Frederico
Twisted X Ara
Ayelet by Naot
Meet the New Boss
Ara CEO Dr. Stefan Rassau aims to spread the word.
ARA IS A REALLY BIG shoe brand outside of North America. And while the German-based comfort brand has been growing quite nicely the past couple years, thanks to the tutelage of division president Sam Spears, its unofficial tagline here is: “Quite possibly the most comfortable shoe you’ve never heard of.”
Dr. Stefan Rassau, who joined the 76-yearold company as CEO last fall, is determined to put that tagline to rest. The exec possesses years of management experience in the footwear and fashion industries with an emphasis on marketing. Previous career stops include head of commercial operations for Calvin Klein in Europe, several leadership roles for Esprit in Europe, and managing director of Italy’s Bama Group, makers of durable plastics for home, gardening, and pets. Most recently, Rassau was a senior adviser at the consulting firm Team Retail Excellence.
Rassau is relishing the Ara opportunity, starting with the fact that its shoemaking abilities are already renowned. Even better, much of the marketing background work had been completed recently but not implemented. The company went through a leadership change and sold off a couple of subsidiary businesses. Now the sole focus is on building the Ara brand worldwide with a focus on North America.
“We’re now focusing on building brand awareness, which really hasn’t been done yet,” says Rassau, noting that he’s working with a clean slate. “We’ll be adding further value to our products through branding and storytelling. This is our next biggest chapter.”
Part of this effort involves working with a trend agency (a company first) that provides insights about what’s happening in art, architecture, fashion, and other relevant fields. That knowledge is being baked into seasonal collections. Think on-trend colors, materials, shapes, etc. There’s more science to it than just whims of the design team. It’s a cohesive story. “Now Ara will not only have the right products, but the entire packaging will be on-trend as well,” Rassau says, citing Tommy Hilfiger as an example of a brand that does an excellent job with the latter. “Their brand packaging is incredible and enormous. Consumers know that brand.”
To get a firsthand read on the North American market, Spears recently led Rassau on a twoweek tour of key accounts starting in Montreal
Dr. Stefan Rassau, CEO, Ara
and finishing in Atlanta. The exec came through it encouraged by Ara’s growth potential. “We put 3,000 kilometers on that rental car visiting 15 to 20 stores and all with different concepts,” he says. “The consistent feedback was that our shoes are well-liked, and our customer service capabilities are super. We have a solid foundation, and now our mission is to get customers to come into stores asking for Ara.”
Rassau was quite impressed by at the quality of the retailers he visited. “They all had unique selling propositions, be it being extremely good at social media marketing, while others excelled as the neighborhood store and doing local marketing very well,” he says. One trait they all had in common: passion. “The employees were all highly motivated and passionate,” Rassau says. “The term ‘independent retailer’ here is true and inspiring.”
One store that especially stood out was Shepherd’s in Ottawa, which has an on-site studio to make videos for its social media feeds. Rassau, who was dubbed by owner Marlene Shepherd as the “European George Clooney,” was quickly cast for an Ara promo during his visit. Within minutes the team conducted the interview and it was posted that day. “It’s great entertainment in addition to retail,” Rassau says. “If you don’t bring that type of energy into a store, there’s little justification to exist. Consumers can just buy it online.”
Game On!
Dearfoams x Monopoly collab rolls out.
DEARFOAMS, A DIVISION of RG Barry, has teamed with Hasbro’s best-selling board game, Monopoly, on a limitededition slipper collection ideal for family game nights. The playful print taps into the leading slipper brands’ deep-rooted belief in connecting family generations in a fresh, cozy, and comfortable way. Features include temperature-regulating nylon uppers, machine washable, memory foam cushioning, fleece footbeds, and indoor/ outdoor outsoles. SRP is $22 to $35.
“We’re thrilled to team up with Monopoly to launch the first in a series of our Game Night Collection,” says Tracy Lehnen, director of marketing for Dearfoams. “This collaboration delivers on what both brands do best: celebrating family, friends, and shared moments. We’ve brought the comfort and fun of this classic partnership to life with a collection that lets fans enjoy a little friendly competition—all from the comfort of home.”
This year marks the 90th anniversary of Monopoly, and Hasbro will be celebrating all year. It ranks as the world’s favorite family board game with more than one billion players in 114 countries. That includes 300-plus culturally relevant editions and new ways to play spanning in-person experiences,
Q&A
BY GREG DUTTER
BURNING DESIRE
Temporary home displacement from the L.A. wildfires be damned, Glen Barad, CEO/ founder of Taos, is pressing forward and focusing on the company’s 20th anniversary celebration, a new investment agreement, and expectations for record growth this year.
GLEN BARAD WAS IN a product development meeting in early January at Taos’ offices in Gardena, CA. It was a typical Tuesday, and the team was going over its latest collection with a fine-tooth comb as it has for 20 years, making sure the fit, quality, colors, materials—every detail of every style—met the brand’s standards. That’s Taos being Taos. It’s about the product first and foremost.
In the midst of this meeting, Barad’s wife called. He silenced the ring, figuring it could wait. She called again immediately. Then she texted a photo of their backyard in Pacific Palisades, with a menacing plume of smoke rising above the hillside. The wildfires were that close.
“My wife, daughter, and her boyfriend were there,” Barad says. “So I jumped in my car and started racing home.”
Barad made it to a Vons supermarket parking lot just off the Pacific Coast Highway a couple of miles from his home of 25 years in Pacific Palisades. The road leading up the hill to his cul-de-sac was blocked. Undaunted, he started walking home when, about 20 minutes later, he happened upon his family standing on a patch of grass between town homes and a strip center at the base of that road. They had pulled over amid traffic gridlock as people abandoned their cars as fires, fueled by 60 mph-plus winds, raged on both sides. Inside the Barads’ two cars were two cats in carriers, two dogs, and whatever they had thought to grab. A dire situation was in danger of turning deadly as a palm tree in the center divide right next to them caught fire. The family carried everything to Barad’s car and fled to a hotel. They didn’t know if they’d ever see their home again.
Barad’s family was one of the luckier ones. The home is still standing, but it suffered severe damage as the intense heat of the fires blew out the back windows. The yard is cooked, too. Neighbors on the lower cul-de-sacs of their hill were not as fortunate. Their homes were destroyed. Barad’s eldest son lost his nearby childhood home. So did many close friends and acquaintances of the Barads. “The devastation is astounding,” he says, noting that the town looks
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like a checkerboard where a few houses are mostly unscathed while many others are burnt to the ground. “There’s no rhyme or reason to it.”
What was expected to be a night or two at that hotel turned into a 26-days in two rooms for the Barads and their pets. He and his wife, Cyndi, have since moved into a rental in Hermosa Beach where they’ve been slowly bringing some normalcy back into their lives. It will be well over a year before they can return home. The Barads are just one of approximately 10,000 families who’ve been displaced for however long it takes to rebuild. While everyone’s situation is different, they have common traits. “We’re all nomads now, and we all have lots of work to do to get our community back to where it once was,” he says. “It’s going to be part of our daily lives until we make that happen. We will.” Of course, it could have been much worse. “My family and our pets are safe, and that’s all that matters,” Barad adds. “And none of our employees were directly affected, which has been a great relief, too.”
Somehow through all this chaos Barad has managed to stay focused on his day job. He credits his leadership team of Bill Langrell, president and COO; Sylvia Jensen, vice president of domestic sales; Mike Walker, vice president and director of marketing; CFO Oscar Campos; Teresa Johnson, sales and marketing specialist; Erica Heck, director of product development; and Deepak Alag, director of operations, for making it possible. Credit also goes to every employee who stayed the course amid the turbulence. The fact is, it’s a very busy time for Taos. Not only is the company marking its 20th anniversary, it also recently announced its first-ever investment deal with Prospect Capital Corporation (Prospect), which will provide the necessary funds to reach next-level growth. Taos is already coming off its best year ever and expects to top it in 2025. The future is bright.
Barad foresaw this growth potential during the Covid hangover. The brand had done well those years but could have done much better, he says. For starters, its product “performed fabulously.” Second, the company stuck to its MAP pricing when many brands didn’t. Barad sensed Taos could be rewarded with increased orders once retailer inventories normalized. “A lot of our retailers had no room in their stores and warehouses, or they were maxed out on cash flow and couldn’t buy anything more from us,” he says. “That was so frustrating to hear. But I realized it wasn’t an us thing; it was an industry thing. I saw an opportunity for big growth in the future.”
Enter Prospect to help invest in that growth. Barad says the investment firm is a perfect match. “Their mentality is to let us run our business our way. They don’t want to change that,” he explains.
Q&A
“They’re helping us with structure, strategy, and any financial needs that might arise.”
Taos had its share of investment suitors, but Barad feels Prospect and Taos chose each other after an 18-month courtship. That bodes well for the relationship going forward, he says. “Many companies look for investment when things are going south,” the exec explains. By contrast, “Our numbers are good, and everything is going in the right direction. We don’t need major restructuring or changes in direction. This investment agreement is the best thing for the brand and our company right now. It’s a very exciting time.”
After 20 years with Taos, Barad remains as committed to building the brand as he was on day one. He’s proud of the company that he and his team have built from the ground up. He’s especially proud that Taos has never wavered from its product-first principles and steadfast belief in the power of independent brick-and-mortar retailers to drive growth. The journey has involved “plenty of blood, sweat, and tears,” and Barad appreciates what it took to get here. Back when he launched
Taos, he had no idea of the journey he was embarking on. “We didn’t think about that. Maybe that’s because we were such bad planners that we didn’t know what we were planning for,” he says with a laugh. “But here we are 20 years later and still in the game. As long as we’re good at what we do and still having fun, we’ll keep playing.”
So how are you holding up?
All things considered, ok enough. I’m getting my wits about living in our new rental in Hermosa Beach and figuring out what’s supposed to go where. I’ve also been meeting with insurance appraisers to go through all those protocols. That part of our lives has been tricky. For example, we’d been dropped by State Farm in August for fire insurance but fortunately we got insurance under the California Fair Plan. It’s not great, but it’s at least something. Others didn’t have any fire insurance. That’s awful. Thankfully, the entire Southern California community has been helping. We attended a recent event at a home in nearby South Bay for displaced Palisadians. It was a chance for us to meet, eat,
OFF THE CUFF
What are you watching? Less and less news because it’s less and less uplifting. There should be an Uplifting News show. I’d watch that.
What is inspiring you now?
First, our employees, who are so passionate and hardworking. Second, being a better mentor than I have been in the past. At this stage of my career, I want to share as much knowledge as I can with my team. I’m also inspired by trying to help those in need. Taos has always been a big advocate for animal welfare organizations like the Humane Society, ASPCA, and SPCALA.
What superpower would you want? To be a healer, no matter what that involves or where it is.
Who has been your greatest influence? Earlier in my career it was Jack Silvera and Robert Greenberg. What I learned from them never goes away. And while my father might not have been the greatest salesperson, he was a great human being and very influential in my life. Same for my mother, family, and friends. Over my 62 years, I’ve taken influence and inspiration from all these people who made me who I am. I wouldn’t change any of it.
What keeps you awake at night?
Not much, really. There’s nothing so extreme that I can control that keeps me awake. That said, my biggest concern is what kind of world we are leaving future generations. I’d like for them to be looking at a positive world going forward.
What would you like to be reincarnated as? Maybe a superpower healer. Like Samantha in Bewitched. I twitch my nose, and all is made right. Or me, only with the industry knowledge I have now at a much younger age.
If you could live in another time period, when would it be? I’ve really enjoyed the era I lived in, but perhaps a little earlier so I could be a teenager during the British Invasion. That’d be pretty cool.
What would be the title of your life story and who’d play you in the film adaptation? The title is still to be determined, but I think Brad Pitt or Larry David might be good.
and commiserate while the host provided a list of area restaurants, doctors, physical therapists, dog washers, etc. that we might need. The mayor of Manhattan Beach also welcomed us. The outpouring of support means a lot.
How is Taos holding up?
Very well, thankfully! Things are pretty much back to normal. In fact, our team worked straight through, which wasn’t easy when our staff was fearful that they could lose their homes or knew someone who did. Big credit goes to them for doing their jobs, which I’m grateful for.
What can Taos do now and more of with the Prospect funding?
First is focusing on our core business and get that going at full potential. Secondly, a lot more marketing. Over the last 20 years, Taos has grown steadily despite little to no marketing. It’s been mainly wordof-mouth and grassroots, which somehow still has driven many consumers into our retail partners asking for the brand. That’s pretty impressive. But we believe that if we increase our marketing efforts that investment will more than pay off. Prospect will also enable us to be better operators from a structural standpoint and to make sure whatever capital we might need in any facet of the company, at whatever time, will be available to us. Lastly, we’re able to analyze and plan better, which we never really did much of before. Before, everything was sort of shot from the hip. Now we’re set up well for growth opportunities going forward. We’re still Taos, but just a little more buttoned up on business matters.
This must all be liberating, no?
Q&A
late, we’ve had a lot of hot items. We’ve also never been deal-y. Many vendors will offer the deal, which is usually a heavy discount, longer terms to pay, etc. During Covid that approach was especially popular, and there was a lot of market share that we might not have gotten because we refused to be as deal-y. More recently, though, retailers have been shifting their focus back to the product and not the deal, which has benefitted us. We’ve always been about product, product, product. The reality is we’re not selling a deal to consumers; we’re selling a great product.
Absolutely. We can do whatever we want as long as it’s with integrity and it’s about building the brand, helping our retailers, and making our consumers happy.
What do you attribute last year’s record sales to most?
Great product, for starters. We have a mantra to be understandably fresh. For example, we don’t need an entire new collection every season. Instead, we’re smart about deciding what core items we take forward while being understandably fresh. We hit hard on those core items that ring the register. Of
overall store counts through acquisitions. That has contributed to our record sales of late, as well.
Might this consolidation make it more challenging to grow going forward?
There’s still plenty of market share up for grabs. As long as our product is great, we expand our marketing message, and continue to focus on better grade retailers, I think things will work out well for us. Now I can’t speak for other brands and I confess that when I walk into a show and see just how many vendors are there, I ask myself: How is this all supported? Some of it just seems so farfetched. Whereas we’ve approached this business completely different than many other brands. That includes our product-first focus, grassroots marketing, and our team. I’ll compare our team to any in the industry and then some. We didn’t have all the tools early on, yet we still competed with billion-dollar companies. We found a way. And now with these tools, thanks to our investment deal, we’ll be able to compete a heck of a lot better, so long as the product is there.
Any other reasons fueling the record growth?
Our distribution, which is primarily independent brick-and-mortar retail. That’s our number one focus. We made the choice from the beginning to support that tier, and we still believe that’s the right approach. It’s paid enormous dividends. On that note, business is really made up of a series of choices. Do you choose to offer a deal or focus on making great product? Same goes for the choice of who you sell to. Our customers, by and large, are just really good merchants who know how to buy, turn, and fill in. And we’re grabbing more market share in these better retailers. What’s more, many of these retailers have been growing their
A lot of brands go the deal, gimmick, or knockoff route because making great product is hard, right? It is hard. It requires consistency as well as knowing all the details that go into making a great shoe. Personally, it’s 40 years of sourcing and selling knowhow. You learn a thing or two over that time. Of course, we’ve had some misses. Nobody’s perfect. It’s like baseball, where you can go into a slump. But because we’ve treated our retailers fairly—like keeping our distribution clean, being product first, and not about the deal—we’ve had opportunities to work out of any slumps. Our track record shows that we hit it out of the park regularly.
Is this the harder road to success?
Yes. We could have gone with a completely different business model—that’s my background with Dynasty Footwear. It’s easier, plus you don’t have to carry inventory. But that’s not what Taos is about. I chose a different road, and I understand that our entrepreneurial approach has risks, but that’s also the invigorating part. No risk, no reward, right? We believe in ourselves enough to be able to take the risks, trust our retail partners, and for them to trust us. If we don’t believe in something, we won’t
just make a deal so that our gross sales look better for the year, because that’ll negatively hit our balance sheet eventually. That approach usually doesn’t end well. For argument’s sake, it’s easier to be a $100 million company and lose money than to be a $10 million company and make money. Long-term success is about how you manage the business.
Has it ever been easy?
No, especially the past few years. Look, this isn’t an easy industry. But we’ve evolved and overcome many challenges along the way, like the Financial Crisis of 2008, retail consolidation, the pandemic...you name it, we’re still taking our cuts. We just booked our best year and expect 2025 to top it amid what has been a very difficult environment with high inflation, a divisive election, and now increased tariffs. The environment is tough, but we feel like we have slowing tailwinds and not headwinds against us right now. It’s similar to Hoka, On, Brooks, Birkenstock, Ugg, Skechers, and New Balance—brands that are all doing well despite the challenges. There’s business to be had if you understand who you are as a brand and don’t try to be everything to everybody. That’s why product, planning, and message are so important. Passion is also important. We’re passionate about this business. We love it. We live it. So, yes, this is the hard road to success. But if it were easy, then everyone would do it.
Agreed.
Q&A
happy consumers. Sometimes it takes longer to identify or understand what works. But our numbers don’t lie. The report cards in most of retail partners are exceptional. And while we’re still far from superstar status in comparison to some behemoths, we can become one. We just have to continue doing what we’ve been doing, only now on a grander scale and backed by more marketing. If, after 20 years, we’re still endearing to our retail partners, it means we must be doing something right. That. Feels. Good.
What’s your take on the general state of retail?
We’ve gone through different chapters to reach this point, and we have many more chapters to write. The first chapter was just trying to get into the branded business without deep pockets. We found a way to do that. But you can only plan the journey so far out. There are too many twists and hurdles that you can’t foresee. But we’ve found ways to overcome those, too. Also, if we just think about what’s in it for Taos, then we’ll lose. It’s about what can Taos do for our consumer that maybe she hasn’t had before. And what can we do for our retailers in terms of creating unique and great product, or the fact that they can just trust us. That, for example, our distribution is really tight. Our retailers don’t have to worry about us being all over the place. Or just the fact that we have phenomenal people who connect with them along with a tremendous customer service team. That’s our legacy: Taos is consumer- and retail-facing versus it being about us first. If we continue with this approach, I believe our team will win.
How is Taos responding to the increased tariffs? It’s affecting everybody in the industry to some extent.
We’re all on the same playing field. Fortunately, we’re very diversified in our sourcing. We have one factory left in China, and they do a great job. We’re planning on staying with them. They’re also building factories in other countries. They’re well financed and managed, so I think we’ll be ok there. Our other factory partners are in Vietnam, Spain, and Portugal. We’re also going to play around in India a little bit and see how that goes. But the new administration is threatening tariffs in a lot of countries. He just like to stir the pot. We’ll see what happens. The one thing we won’t do is make rash decisions. Because, for example, staying in China might still be the best alternative versus moving to a factory in another country only to discover that the quality isn’t as good and there are other costs. It goes back to: Are we buying the deal or the product? Diversity is a strength. Product is a strength. A good factory is a strength. Chasing the cheapest deal isn’t a strength.
Might Taos expand into men’s styles?
There’s still so much room to grow where we are today, but I think men’s is getting closer every day. We just have to make sure our sourcing is aligned with our needs. What factories are best and are we doing it for the right reasons. That’s the backroom stuff that needs to be done first so when the curtain opens the performance goes off without a hitch. It’s the same for when a consumer opens one of our boxes, they don’t realize everything that went into making that product other than they want it to look and feel great. That’s our ultimate goal:
Everyone is searching for what’s next. So, for example, Vans Old Skool styles were the hottest shoe for a couple of years and then that hit a wall. Then Adidas came in with the Samba, and Hoka and On have also been hot. My take is that athletic has always been hot. What’s changed is the distribution channels. For example, better independents used to only carry New Balance but now that there are a lot fewer sporting goods dealers, they’re also carrying Brooks, Hoka, On, and Asics, to cite a few. That’s new growth for them. Same for the work boot business. When Payless, Kmart, and Sears closed, along with a Walmart cutting way back on its work boots offering, that’s 20,000 stores, give or a take a few, that used to sell that category. That’s another huge growth opportunity for better independents. Boot Barn has done well amid this shift, too. Getting back to Taos, we’re trying new categories, like active outdoor. It’s all a learning process. I call them correctibles: What can we do differently to make this category a little better? Meanwhile, we continue to update many core styles that drive our business.
What do you love most about your job?
I just love this industry. I love that I know people in just about every state and from around the world, be it sourcing, distribution, and retail. We work with a beautiful group of people. This morning , for example, I spoke with our factory partners in Spain and Portugal. Tomorrow, representatives from one of our Vietnamese factories are in town. At shows, I meet with our retailers, many of whom have been partners for more than a decade. I also love catching up with retailers who may not be customers now, but it’s always good to touch base because you never know when an opportunity to do something may arise. Also, many buyers are a lot younger than me now, and I love hearing their perspectives. I’m always learning. Similarly, if I can share anything that I’ve learned, it’s my pleasure. Lastly, I love interacting with our great competitors. At the end of the day, we’re all in this together. •
Mini Crave urban boot features inside zipper for easy on/off wear.
EDUCATIONAL OPPORTUNITY
for the footwear community
Did you know Two Ten Footwear Foundation awards over $700,000 in educational funding annually?
Two Ten scholarships make earning a degree or pursuing post-secondary vocational/technical training more affordable for footwear employees and their dependents.
Two Ten’s Women in the Footwear Industry (WIFI) grants for upskilling and professional development provide flexible options for women seeking to advance their careers.
Our goal is offering educational opportunity to lift lives. Visit twoten.org to learn more.
• Scholarship applications for the 2025-2026 academic year are due by April 1, 2025.
• WIFI grant applications are accepted on a rolling basis throughout the year.
twoten.org
Join Two Ten WIFI for Cocktails in Charlotte
Women in the Footwear Industry (WIFI) Networking Event
Culinary Dropout
1120 South Tryon Street, Suite #100, Charlotte, NC 28203
TUESDAY, MARCH 18
6:00-7:00PM
Game Changers
Trend spotting in the halls of Micam in Milan, Italy.
WITH 853 BRANDS, (415 Italian and 438 from 28 other countries), Micam once again delivered on its mission as a must-attend event on the industry’s trade show calendar. The theme was “game changers.” Specifically, celebrating brands and designers who renew, evolve, and embrace change with courage in what remains a disruptive and challenging market worldwide. Success depends on a visionary approach across the manufacturing spectrum, be it supply chain, new materials, and breakthrough designs.
“Micam is the best response to a challenging period for the footwear industry,” says Giovanna Ceolini, president of Micam, noting that last year saw a drop in Italian exports of 8.4 percent. “However, forecasts indicate a gradual market improvement by the end of the year, with recovery prospects driven by the industry’s capacity for innovation and resilience.”
Micam is busy prepping for its next show (Sept. 7-9), its 100th edition. Expect a lavish party, Italian style. Until then, here’s some of the key Fall/Winter ’25 trends that caught our eye at this show.
Burgundy Beat
The new black for Fall/Winter ’25.
Fly London
Thierry
Profession
Cangiano
Greta Nari
Arbiter
Here Comes the Fuzz!
Cozy, cute, and curly treatments create textural appeal.
Laces Not Required
Stud Finder
Tough times demand decorative body armor.
Zebra joins leopard print on the style safari.
Loafers: the OG hands-free silhouette.
Calpierre
Dino Draghi
Mephisto
Igi&Co
s.Oliver
Brunate
Rhode
Noa Harmon
Lince
XTI
Carrano
Fluchos
Felmini
Lazamani
The Icona Miuxa Shoes
Candace Cooper
Flower Mountain
Letizia Ferrari
Colors of California Rhode
Urban Jungle Gym
Sporty kicks are suitable for concrete canyons and beyond.
Fastenating
Solidus
Remonte
Kamo-Gutsu
XTI
Softinos
Ilse Jacobsen
Thierry
Natural World
Rieker
NeroGiardini
G Comfort
Andrea Conti
Fessura
W6WZ
Mocha Mousse Market
Pantone’s color of the year is soothing and sensible.
Chelsea District
The classic boot fits in any neighborhood
Bronze Age
The third place medal metal is a winner for Fall/Winter ’25.
Shoecolate
Hey Dude
Toni Pons
Wonders
Rieker
Pius Gabor
Sioux
Letizia Ferrari
Les Tropeziennes
Piccadilly
Amarpies
Fluchos
NeroGiardini
SLIM CLASS
Ballet-inspired flats: the chunky loafer alternative.
HIP HYBRIDS
Sneaker boots flex style versatility.
Jambu
Gola
GIRL POWER
Jacqueline Van Dine, vice president of merchandising and product for Birkenstock, reflects on a full circle journey.
DEAR JACQUELINE…
Growing up a Gen X, latchkey kid gives you the entrepreneurial foundation to fulfill your ambitions as a strong and caring brand leader in the footwear industry. For now, though, walking home alone from school to make yourself a sandwich, load your Kool-Aid with extra scoops of sugar, and sing your heart out to the pop tunes on KFRC while your single mom of three kids commutes to San Francisco to make ends meet is as real as it gets for a six-year-old.
As the youngest and only daughter, you’re regularly drafted into Wiffle Ball, basketball, catch, bike races, and pretty much anything your brothers want to play. Battling them day-in and day-out, you learn how to take a hard foul and push back. It’s ideal training ground because you’ll need mental and physical toughness to compete in a male-dominated industry led by alpha Shoe Dogs. You can connect, compete, and cope on that fast-paced playing field. Remember to thank your brothers for that.
Remember, also, that there’s no crying in baseball—or business. Play hard and don’t be afraid to take big swings, because you have the power to knock it out of the park. In 20 years, you’ll be honored in the inaugural class of an industry trade publication’s Top 40 Under 40 alongside Tony Hsieh, founder of Zappos. That’s a store where you can shop any time, from anywhere, and buy pretty much any shoe you want. The world changes in amazing ways; you wouldn’t believe half of what I could tell you.
So just how did you get into the shoe biz? By chance, really. With a degree in Business Management looming, you get your act together by taking an internship just to have something relevant on your resume. The company is in your hometown. The job is in the marketing department. The president is a woman. Her entrepreneurial spirit is passionate and infectious. She’s on a mission to bring health and happiness to anyone she can reach through comfortable shoes. Like Mom, she’s strong, independent, inspiring, and incredibly kind. Her name is Margot Fraser. The brand is Birkenstock.
historic day, albeit for terrible reasons. Thousands of Americans are killed in a terrorist attack. The world is dark, but your daughter represents a ray of hope. A new beginning dawns, and you start the best job of your life: motherhood.
The internship is the start of a nearly 14-year run with the company. You rise the ranks to Brand Manager for two subsidiaries, Birki’s and Tatami, building a portfolio that inspires consumers at both ends of the market. Collaboration is key, and you find understanding the cultural relevance of consumer behavior incredibly intriguing, as well as a key to success. Bonus: You enjoy traveling throughout the United States and Europe. Life is good.
But then a call comes during a layover in Chicago. Your beautiful, red-headed brother has died in a climbing accident on Mt. Shasta on Sept. 12, 1999, at age 32. Initially, you are desperate to keep your family within arm’s reach. Life is no longer something to take for granted. Devastated, you somehow push forward. Two years later, your ob/gyn says your delivery date is Sept. 12, 2001. You cry. After much praying, you’re spared that date. Your daughter is born on Sept. 11, 2001. It’s a
You manage both jobs well. You earn Business Week D&AD gold and silver medals for your work on Footprints, another sub-brand, in collaboration with Fuseproject. It’s ahead of its time but be proud of the product chops you earn and industry recognition. Then the time comes to take on a new challenge. As usual, you aim high and jump on a fast-paced growth train called Keen. You’re the category manager for lifestyle shoes. It’s a career- and life-altering move. The brand is less than two years old, and the team is disciplined, entrepreneurial, and dynamic. The captain is Jim Van Dine. (Psst: He’s your future husband!) The place is electric! Your peers become like family. It’s all about brand integrity and respect for all. Keen quickly becomes a leading outdoor brand. Life is really good. But you’re a California girl at heart. When the company announces in early 2006 that it’s moving to Oregon, you wave goodbye. You line up interviews with several major athletic brands, only to decide to go with your entrepreneurial spirit and cofound Ahnu with your former Keen team captain. You head up product, design/ development, and marketing. Thanks to incredible relationships built at Keen, Ahnu gets off to a roaring start. Then, in late 2008, life throws a curve ball: The country’s banking system nearly collapses. An acquisition by Deckers Brands saves Ahnu. The capital infusion and manufacturing muscle lead the brand to new heights. The growth and promise aren’t enough, though. To some, Ahnu is just a business. The brand is taken in-house and, worse, put in the proverbial basement. The silver lining: reconnecting with Van Dine. You soon marry the love of your life and become the second JVD in the industry.
Careers often come full circle! You’re one of the people for whom that’s true. Birkenstock 2.0 begins in 2016. You’re VP of merchandising and product. David Kahan leads the beloved OG comfort brand in the Americas. The atmosphere resembles your start-up days. Birkenstock is on fire. I’m talking youth culture fire. The brand is at the forefront of a macro comfort lifestyle movement. You’re given a clean canvas, made of the fibers of your roots, to add to this tremendous, now 251-year brand legacy. It’s now going on nine years with your first brand love. You’re proud to help the team take Margot’s original vision to the next levels. Life is grand.
Gotta run. You’ve got this. Aim high, believe in yourself, work hard, push back, and you’ll become the little sister who could. Never forget: “The best way to predict the future is to create it.” —Peter Drucker
Jacqueline Van Dine and her brothers, Rene and Walter.
Waterproof boots with anti-fatigue comfort footbeds by Timberland; Hawke & Co. jacket; RRL shirt and pants; John Deere hat; vintage t-shirt, gloves, and belt.
Cat Footwear waterproof leather boots with EVA midsoles; neoprene/rubber work boot with anti-microbial evaporative cooling lining by The Original Muck Boot Co Opposite page: composite safety-toe Skechers x John Deere work boots with Goodyear welt construction; Schott jacket; Carhartt sweatshirt; Levi’s jeans; Stetson hat.
From top: Clarks zip-up leather boot with comfort footbed; Schott jacket; Save Khaki United shirt; Quaker Marine Supply hat; vintage tie; waterproof lightweight compositie safety-toe work boot with Cellstretch comfort footbed by Twisted X Opposite page, from left: Red Wing moc toe work boots with Traction Tred outsoles; Bronson Mfg. Co. liner jacket; President’s shirt; vintage coat, pants, and gloves; slip-resistant biker boot by Durango
From top: Merrell waterproof hiking boot with Vibram TC5+ outsole; oil- and slip-resistant combat boot with SuperFabric instep panels by Rocky Boots Opposite page: waterproof logger boots by Ariat; Hawke & Co. vest; BDG sweatshirt; RRL pants; Billy Kirk belt; Oscar Ouyang scarf cap; Oliver Spencer gloves; Michael Macko beaded belt clip.
Clockwise from top: Zamberlan lightweight hiking boot with Gore-Tex Extended Comfort waterproof membrane and Vibram Pillow outsole; Camper combat-inspired boot with PU footbeds; acid-and chemical-resistant steel-toe boot by Xtratuf Opposite page: Wolverine waterproof leather work boots; Ryan Originals jacket; Jach’s shirt jacket; L.L. Bean henley; Filson Pants; American Trench socks.
Clockwise from top right: leather boots with rubber lug soles by Testosterone; President’s tote bag; logger boot with electrical hazard protection by Danner; Harley-Davidson biker boots with side zipper and cushioned sock lining; LL Bean lined jeans; Fjallraven hat; RRL vest; Levi’s chambray shirt. Opposite page: ECCO waterproof leather hiking boots; Hawke & Co. fleece half zip and shorts; Realtree leggings; American Trench socks; vintage sweatshirt, hat, and bandana.
Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Michael Macko; fashion editor: Kiernan McCormick; models: Pablo Morias/Q Mgmt., Cale Millen/Soul Artist Mgmt.; photo assistant Raymond Collette; photo and styling assistants: Eileen Viglietta, Nellyfer Espinoza.
Garys
Newport Beach, CA
N 1966, GARY WASSERMAN started his namesake upscale men’s clothing store out of a converted four-bedroom Brentwood house. Three years later, Dick Braeger, then a sales representative for shoe manufacturer, E.E. Taylor & Company, became partners. The two introduced customers to high-end shoes from labels such as Taylor Made, British Walkers, and Cole Haan, which Braeger cofounded.
By the early ’80s, Braeger had bought Garys from Wasserman and expanded to three locations: downtown L.A., Marina Del Rey, and Newport Beach. The remaining Garys Newport opened in 1978 in the upscale Fashion Island mall. The space has gone through five expansions, transforming from 3,500-square-foot to a 17,000-square-foot menswear destination. The experienced staff oversees a meticulously curated selection of brands that span dress, sportswear, furnishings, and footwear.
Braeger’s son, John, who’s been with the business for more than 35 years, is the current owner. He says the establishment is known for more than its elite menswear offerings. Namely, its club-like setting. “We have a high bar in our store,” Braeger says. “The sales associates have been with us for a long time, so there’s a lot of strong relationships here. It’s not uncommon for people to just say hi, whether they’re buying or not.” He adds, “Sometimes, people say, ‘I’m so glad you’re still here. There aren’t many stores like you around anymore.’” —Kiernan McCormick
Is everyone at Garys ok since the wildfires? Everybody’s good here, thanks. But my family has many friends who lost their homes. Over the last few weeks, my wife has been donating merchandise that’s been carried over from a season or two. She hand-delivered some of it to our friends in the Palisades so they could pass it out to those in need. That made it easier for them, because I think a lot of people didn’t want to rummage through all those donations. Also, a lot of people have been displaced and moved closer to our store, so we’ve been giving small discounts to help who we can.
Who are your best-selling footwear brands now?
The largest volume we’re doing now is Magnanni out of Spain. That’s been a strong business because our background is shoes. We’re constantly filling in. We sell 60 percent sneakers and casual shoes and 40 percent dress shoes. In the sneaker world,
Zegna’s Triple Stitch is still driving business, along with Brunello Cucinelli. For high-end dress shoes, Bontoni is popular.
What is the best new shoe brand added to your mix recently? Rubirosa is a new sneaker brand from Italy that’s doing well. Generally speaking, we stick to our best-selling brands and build them up. I haven’t recently brought in anything really new.
Anything unique about the SoCal customer in terms of shoe brand, style, and color preferences? We have a little influence of the LA style here in Newport Beach, which is sneaker-driven. We’re not selling as many loafers as maybe the East Coast. We’re not as conservative as that region.
How does fit, brand, style, and price rank in order of importance for your customers? Fit, comfort, brand, style, price.
Any perennial styles that you must have in stock each season? Our top-sellers for the most part. It’s what our customers expect from us. We don’t have a lot of newness on the floor right now, but it’s still early in the season. We’re always looking for something special, like a brand that people haven’t heard about.
What percentage of your business is footwear? It’s around 10 percent. But, for the last two years, it’s been one of the fastest-growing parts of our business.
Why is footwear doing so well? It’s partly because we stopped carrying opening price brands and went with mid-tier and high-end designer shoes. So, prices have gone up and it has been working well. Also, we’re not treating shoes as a forgotten department and continue to fill in weekly. We need to have a good balance of stock shoes as well as the special ones that we sell and then move on.
Who is your core customer? Men aged 35 to 60. Twenty percent are out-of-towners.
Who is your fastest-growing customer segment? The younger demographic. I feel like they’re more educated on luxury products. Either they’re reading
about the brands that we carry, or our mall has done a great job getting new companies here that they’re interested in. We also carry a few brands that are a little less expensive, like Monroe, which might appeal to their budgets. We’ve also been outfitting a lot of weddings, which gets younger customers into our store.
How’s business? We were up in 2024 from the previous year, which was one of our record years. That’s due to a couple reasons. One, there’s a lot going on in our area—new restaurants, retail, and hotels. Two, the past several seasons we’ve been pushing for more higher lux goods, and the customer has responded well. They want special items. Even when we bring in special items that they can’t wear yet due to the weather, they still pick them up because they love them.
What is the smartest business decision you’ve made recently? I hired a new guy who is writing big business. We’re also controlling our inventory well to make sure we stay profitable. Managing inventories is always an important part of this business.
What are your top goals for this year? To grow some of our new brands, like Brunello Cucinelli. We’ve also segmented some shops and are trying to grow those. It’s been working very well. The luxury and mid-level segments have been very successful too, and we want to continue to grow those. Overall, the goal is to continue to stand for what Garys has always stood for: great customer relationships with the best product in a great location. Success usually comes when we adhere to these basic fundamentals.
Where do you envision Garys in five years? Continuing to step up to more luxury products and giving our customers what they’re expecting from us.
What are you most proud of regarding Garys? Surviving 40 years in a very challenging industry.
What do you love most about being a retailer? The people, especially interacting with customers. Dressing people well, and them getting compliments from other people…We love hearing those stories. We get quite a bit of referrals from that.
John Braeger stikes a pose in his 17,000-square-foot menswear mecca in the Fashion Island mall.
M Penner
Houston, TX
ETAIL RUNS IN Murry Penner’s blood. The co-owner and CEO of M Penner comes from a line of Texas entrepreneurs. His mother’s family owned a group of East Texas stores named Hurwitz Man Shop, while his paternal grandfather and great-uncles started San Antonio shops, Penner’s, in 1916, and Todd’s in 1933. In 1974, Murry’s father, Morris Penner, opened M Penner, a luxury specialty store in Houston.
Murry didn’t join the family business right away. His career began at Macy’s in New York. After a year, he returned to Houston and worked at Marshall Field’s. Then, with M Penner nearing its 10th anniversary and sales growing, his dad asked for help. In 2006, Murry and his wife Karen bought the business.
M Penner carries oxfords from Bontoni and Magnanni, penny loafers from Di Bianco and Santoni, and sneakers from Premiata and Zegna, among others. Footwear represents seven percent of total sales. The store also offers helpful services like complimentary alterations, closet cleaning, personal shopping, home delivery, and an extensive madeto-measure program.
Making customers feel good about themselves is M Penner’s top priority. “We know your name and what you like, and if we don’t know you, we’ll get to know you, and we’ll make you feel great,” Penner says. “We love to help men live their best lives and style, and everything radiates from that.” —K.M.
always looking for fresh ideas. We want to stay ahead of the curve.
What are some of the biggest challenges you’ve overcome? My dad, who was demanding, but also good at this job. I had to fight for everything until I learned it all. That took years, but it did us both good. During an ’80s energy crash he asked, “Don’t you have any fear?” I didn’t, but if things had broken a little differently, we could’ve gone out of business. I came to really appreciate that question.
What can customers experience at M Penner that they won’t elsewhere or online? There’s no personal interaction whatsoever online. They can’t experience our level of hospitality and the beauty of our merchandise. Anybody who walks in will
What are your top-selling shoe brands? Zegna’s Triple Stitch is a big seller. It’s one of the most comfortable shoes I’ve ever worn. Our other top brand is Santoni. The shoes are great quality and a little more sleek. We’ve also seen a movement towards sassy casual styles.
Are customers dressing up again post-Covid? That’s been going on for three years. We chased athleisure a bit because we needed anything we could get. Now, we do elevated athleisure, but we don’t chase that business. While there’s definitely a movement towards dressing up again, a lot of that depends on retailers. Nothing happens in retail unless retailers make it happen. We have to love it, and we can’t be scared of showing something new.
Happy belated 50th anniversary! Thank you. When I think about being in business for 50 years, I wonder, ‘How the hell did we do that?’ We beat the odds, for sure. We had a big party attended by the people who made it happen: our family, customers, and employees.
What do you attribute your staying power to?
Number one: How we treat our customers, suppliers, and employees. Second: Our unwavering commitment to change. We have a saying: The best way to lose a customer is to bore him. We’re
be impressed by our displays. There’s also always somebody here to greet you. We’re not pushy, and we’re very knowledgeable about our goods.
Who is your core customer? Any man who likes to be treated with the same hospitality and respect that he treats his customers. He wouldn’t be able to afford our store if he didn’t. He appreciates fashion, quality, and value.
How does fit, brand, style, and price rank in order of importance? Fit, style, brand, price.
Any perennial styles? Perennial styles are sort of against my religion. Our philosophy is to devote a good portion of our open-to-buys to challenging the status quo. Everything comes to an end, and everything recycles. If our suppliers don’t believe that, they’re not going to be important to us for very long.
What is the best new shoe brand added to your mix of late? Bontoni. The brand fits with everything we do. We carry great penny loafers and classic cap toes reimagined in very creative ways. It’s a high-quality shoe with a wonderful fit. The finishes and the rubs are great.
Are your footwear sales growing? Yes. We work with very knowledgeable people from Wallace, the company in charge of our shoe department. They’ve become more open to experimentation, which is what everybody has to do in this business to survive.
What is the smartest business decision you’ve made recently? We remodeled the floors, dressing rooms, and layout. We took out a 20-year-old cabinet table that held 2,000 ties. We’re lucky to carry 200 ties now. People love the refresh. It allows the store to be merchandised much more effectively.
What are you most proud of regarding M Penner? That I have family in the business. I’m also proud of my staff. I get compliments all the time about how great they are. And I’m proud when I open the front door each day and people see who we are.
What do you love most about your job? I love our employees and customers. I love not being in a cubicle. I love when customers send pictures of our work and say how great a time they had and the compliments they received about how great they looked at a special event. That never gets old.
Karen and Murry Penner helm the 51-year-old meswear destination.
If the Shoe (Really) Fits
Quadsis targets tweens and teenagers with appropriate styling in women’s sizes.
JANET WARD AND Stephanie Guido knew from experience growing up. Their adult-sized feet didn’t match their young style preferences. Years later, the now mothers of four daughters between them discovered the problem had persisted, but this time they decided to do something about it. Enter Quadsis, a brand launched in 2022 designed for tweens and teens to rock age-appropriate styling that fits.
“Quadsis is an alternative to the typical matronly women’s shoe,” Ward says. “Every girl and young woman deserve a choice of comfortable, cute shoes, no matter their size or age, and we’re here to help them feel confident in their style choices and live on the go while looking their best!”
That starts with silhouettes suitable for an active lifestyle, which spans espadrilles, boots, ballerinas, and Mary Janes. (Quadsis isn’t chasing the sneaker business, which Ward says is already packed with options.) Take Quadsis’ 1.5 signature wedge, for example. “They’re still running around a lot, so our wedge offers a little height without her feeling too tall,” she explains. “It provides stability with a wider outsole so being active isn’t an issue. We also included a zipper entry on our boots for ease and function as well as skid-resistant rubber outsoles (on all styles) and a removable footbed to help eliminate shoe odor from young, stinky feet!”
Ward says the styling is a “perfect balance” between trendy and age-appropriate. “We’re giving girls a way to express themselves and explore more mature styles without going overboard, which is such a big deal at this stage,” she says, noting that their daughters (ages 9 to 15) serve as an in-house focus group. “We’ve toned down the maturity of a typical women’s shoe by adding youthfulness through materials (leather, canvas and denim), colors (soft golds, greens, and pinks), and fun details such as the ruffle, glitter, and velvet.”
The collection, made in Brazil, also includes customizable features like a removable decorative strap on the Katherine bootie, the bow on the ballerinas that can be tied on the side, front, or back, and the Elizabeth Mary Jane double strap can be buckled straight across or crisscrossed. “These details are for her to wear the shoe exactly how she wants,” Ward says, adding, “There are many opinions during this age, and we’ve built shoes that fit them.” On that note, Quadsis is available in half sizes from 5 to 11. “As a size 10.5 myself, it helps us capture the perfect fit,” she says. “We’ve also invested in creating our own molds and lasts, which ensures consistency in
our fit and was necessary as what we’re building doesn’t exist in the market.”
It might seem like Ward and Guido possess shoe industry backgrounds. They do not. But they do have 25 years combined experience in corporate America. Ward worked in mergers and acquisitions and Guido is an interior designer with a background in finance. “I thrive in the environment of finding solutions to problems and bringing new ideas to life,” Ward says. “Whether it’s buying companies, building new greenfield projects from the ground up in a foreign country, or launching a footwear brand, the basis of building a business is the same. Both require a plan, partners, operations support, and a project manager.” Knowing what aren’t her strengths are part of the formula, too. That’s where Guido’s talents come into play as principal designer. “Partnering together makes for a very strong team built for success,” Ward says.
No prior industry experience has actually been an asset, according to Ward. There are no preconceived notions. “Our fresh perspective has given us freedom to design shoes that we know are missing from the market,” Ward says. “And while the tween/teen demographic is viewed as fleeting, many do wear women’s sizes and their tastes can be fickle. There are millions of young women going through this
stage of life who deserve great footwear. It’s a very important time in their lives as they are figuring out who they are, and we want to walk alongside them with options.”
Ward and Guido aren’t going it completely alone, though. They are partners with a product consultant and a designer. They also have networked with FDRA, Two Ten Foundation, University of Georgia, and Next Generation Manufacturing, an industry group in their hometown of Atlanta. “We’ve also reached out to female-owned companies and founders of footwear start-ups,” Ward says. “We’ve received tremendous support since we’ve launched.”
Having just finished its first trade show in Atlanta, Ward says the focus now is on wholesale distribution. Seeing and trying the shoes on works best for Quadsis. “We’ve found our best sales are when we’re in front of customers, whether it’s a trunk show or a pop-up shop with a boutique,” Ward says. “When someone steps into a pair, they stand up straight, smile, and say, ‘Wow, these are so comfortable!’ That can’t be replicated online.”
Looking ahead, Ward says Quadsis (a mashup of quadriceps and the suffix sis and meant to convey strength, confidence, and self-esteem) expects to attract a broader age range. In fact, the initial target somewhat pigeonholed the brand. “College girls, twentysomethings, moms, and even grandmas are loving Quadsis,” Ward says. “Our mission of a lower heel, on-trend styling, and versatility along with quality, comfort, and affordability (SRP: $58-$78) piques interest because women all want that.” —Greg Dutter
Janet Ward and Stephanie Guido are not just the founders of Quadsis, they are wearers too.
HORSE WHISPERER
Subtle and versatile Western styling for guys speaks volumes.
Allen Edmonds
Goergia Boot
Culture Club
Marina Rosin Levine, CEO of Highline United, makers of Ash and Sanctuary, is living her designer dreams. By Greg Dutter
GROWING UP IN Queens, NY, Marina Rosin Levine always wanted to become a fashion designer. But that just wasn’t considered a practical profession for a child of USSR immigrants. So it was off to Cornell University where she earned a degree in Hotel and Business Management. When Levine returned home, though, she was intrigued by a friend attending Parsons School of Design and joined her fashion and footwear design classes. She followed that up with more classes at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Long story short: the designer heart wants what the designer heart wants.
The classmates soon turned their love of design into a business. (Levine’s Ivy League degree would pay dividends, after all.) The duo started out making clothes and shoes by hand in their East Village apartment. “We made these strappy knee-high gladiators, and through word of mouth they got into the hands of a fashion editor,” Levine says. “That’s when decided to start our own brand, Due Farina.”
The start-up designers were inspired by the city’s eccentric fashion scene of the early 2000’s. Specifically, club kid culture. They also led with a DIY approach. “Since we had very little experience in the fashion industry, we designed shoes based on our own creativity rather than what was trending,” Levine explains. “That’s what got us attention and grew our business.” The team also sought advice from whomever they could—like the Small Business Association of New York. “We were paired with a mentor, a shoe dog, Harry Dannenberg,” she says. “He taught us that each style within a collection is part of a cohesive story that must sing. I’ve followed that design advise ever since.”
After about four years, Levine joined the corporate world as design director of Schwartz & Benjamin. There, she oversaw Daniblack, Rebecca Minkoff, and private label divisions. In 2012, she joined Highline United as design director overseeing Ellen Tracy Luxury Rebel, T Tahari, and private label. Four years later she added a side business as president and creative director of Capsule Collection Intl., a design and development company that teams with a factory conglomerate based in China and Vietnam making all styles for men’s, women’s, and kids’. Late last year, Levine was named CEO of Highline United. She credits another mentor and coworker, Steve Waldman, for helping make that dream job a reality. “Steve was always very straight forward and tough,” Levine says. “He’d say, ‘You’ll never forget an honest response.’ So I learned to never sugar coat or embellish when dealing with colleagues and customers. Thanks to him, I have a thick skin.”
Levine is now pouring her decades of design and development experience into Ash and Sanctuary. She’s excited by both brands’ unique positioning and growth potential. Ash is two brands in one: Ash Sport and Ash Main Line. “Sport is focused on assortment built around an it sneaker, while Main Line is a collection of contemporary, trend-defining silhouettes that have an edgy European sensibility,” Levine explains. “The team pushes the boundaries of trending constructions in a way that aren’t duplicative. Ash is simultaneously aggressive, wearable, and feminine.”
Meanwhile, Sanctuary is a segment within a sustainable fashion lifestyle
brand. Highline works closely with owners Ken and Deb Polanco. The shoes are defined by contemporary, sleek silhouettes that offer an elevated look at an affordable price (SRP: $99-$139). Designs are crafted from natural leather and feature comfort insoles, ensuring both style and wearability. “Unlike fast fashion brands, Sanctuary maintains a refined aesthetic that resonates with a customer who values quality and understated elegance,” Levine says. “She has discerning taste and appreciation for being on trend rather than trendy.”
What are some signature design aspects of Ash and Sanctuary? Ash relates to moody materials such as deep, rich suedes and metallics that look elevated and romantic but still very rock and roll. There’s plenty of hardware and ornamentation along with unique textures and patterns. Sanctuary has a clean, contemporary aesthetic. We’ve pivoted the focus from single sole silhouettes to forward-trending constructions like heeled footbeds and chunky clogs that somehow are both chunky and sleek. We’ve also expanded our assortment of recycled knit uppers and developed a molded Oasis foam insole system made from recycled materials.
Who is the target customer for each brand? We think in terms of target attitude. The world has become so interconnected, which has created more nebulous categories of people. We call Ash customers ASHionistas. She is completely aware of the most popular designers and trends; her idea of status is to have all eyes on her. She’s not logo driven. In fact, she’s probably very judgy of those who wear logos—unless she’s wearing logos, ironically. Whereas the Sanctuary woman wants strong, clean, and forward styles that are no brainers and can be worn all day. She’s loyal to the brand because she knows there’s tremendous value. Sanctuary doesn’t have a fast fashion hand feel or aesthetic; our customer is worldly, but doesn’t reference to a specific age.
What are key trends in the Fall/Winter ’25 collections? I’m very excited about Ash’s flats capsule. It seems as if we’re all just swimming in Mary Janes, however Ash has developed these glove construction flats with either extra elongated pointy toes or broad square toe styles that have dark colored haircalf prints mixed with chunky studded
Sanctuary is all about clean, forward styles that can be worn all day.
straps. With Sanctuary, I’m loving our self-covered clog silhouettes. I understand that clogs have been hit or miss, but these are less “Swedish-ee.” They’re sleeker and designer looking. We made this unit bottom in mule, two piece, and bootie uppers. Trés chic!
Any signs that sneakers may lose traction as the ubiquitous fashion statement? Am I the only one that hears sneakers are up trending while also trending down? Sneakers will never going away. There’s the obvious comfort factor. Plus, there are very few pairings that look so effortlessly cool like a sneaker with a maxi skirt or with baggy flooded pants. But women are also very much wearing other silhouettes now. The dress category is blowing up. Post-Covid sloppy has burned us out. Women want to dress up, wear pretty shoes, and have a glamorous evening.
How would you describe your overall design aesthetic? While I thrived and was inspired by late ’90s and early ’00s NYC club culture that celebrated DIY fashion, the era that most inspires me is Disco. I love the glam, sparkle, and dark moodiness of that time and style. My personal style and designs reflect that.
In what ways does your extensive design background help in your duties as CEO? Easy answer. It’s all about the product. If the customer isn’t captivated in the first few seconds, it’s over. This is the vibe I’m instilling at Highline. An equally important vibe is new, new, new. Don’t mirror the market. That’s what mirrors are for.
What’s the best business advice you ever received? To succeed you must traverse the land mines of day-to-day business life, go home feeling exhausted, and start the next day with ideas based on the failures of yesterday. The hope is that there’s a net positive. But it’s not just one mentor or experience that stands out. It’s everything, and it becomes a personality trait. You must be a go-getter with an entrepreneurial spirit that works well with a team that shows initiative and
is focused on problem-solving and creativity.
Any designers you admire? I lean into the maximalist aesthetic, so I admire Farm Rio, Altazurra, and Ulla Johnson. This year Brandon Maxwell caught my eye as I love the mix of denim, tailored, oversize, and leather. I also had the chance to work with Iris Apfel, the queen of more is more. Her style is what I admire most because by breaking rules, she made the rules.
Any tariffs-related pivots at the ready? Highline is factory-owned, which allows us to maintain a dynamic, reality-based relationship with our founders. They understand the importance of staying competitive. In fact, both Ash and Sanctuary have successfully reduced WHS/SRP costs by 10 to 20 percent without making changes to leather uppers and linings. Additionally, we have a rapidly growing private label business with exceptional brand partners. We’re committed to their success, which is why we’ve kept our prices stable despite the recent tariff increase. We also have facilities in Vietnam that haven’t yet been affected by tariff increases. We’re also actively exploring alternative factory partnerships in other countries. That said, China remains the best value for production.
What’s your first shoe-related memory? We were poor immigrants in Queens, NY. For my 5th birthday my parents bought me white patent Mary Janes with a mini-Cuban heel. I wanted to feel like a big girl, so I purposefully cut the straps halfway through and the stems still popped up. My parents made me wear the shoes to my birthday, regardless.
What shoe must every woman have in her closet?
A well-made, mid-high heel pump in a bold color or metallic. It adds major zing to a broad range of outfits, whether that’s an office denim look or a sweat suit with chunky jewelry.
Is there a perfect shoe? I don’t think so. It’s like a favorite ice cream flavor: it varies person to person and everyone can change their favorites. One day you just don’t want Cherry Garcia.
Ash Sport is all about the it sneaker while Ash Main Line features contemporary, edgy European styling. Enjoyed
The Year of the Snake…Print
Come slither in an array of patterns and silhouettes that evoke healing, wisdom, rejuvenation, and sensuality, so says the Chinese Zodiac. We say snake print also just looks so tempting!
The first 3D foot scanning experience designed just for children. Kids shoe shopping is finally fun!
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