The art of making footwear is a craft that requires skill, precision, and attention to detail— qualities 2024 NFR All-Around World Champion Shad Mayfield understands well. That’s why, for premium comfort and performance, he trusts the Reserve collection to meet his competition needs.
Explore our entire Reserve Collection by visiting twistedx.com/reserve
10 Twist and Shout Prasad Reddy, CEO of Twisted X Global Brands, on how the 20-year-old company is only just getting started.
By Greg Dutter
16 Resolutions and Revelations Industry leaders plan and predict the year ahead. Buckle up. By
Greg Dutter
18 Fall Boots Preview
Top silhouettes, colors, materials, and embellishments of the season.
By Kathleen O’Reilly
26 Easy Riders
Get in gear with moto-inspired boots. By Kathleen O’Reilly
4 Editor’s Note
6 This Just In: Cool for Cold
8 Scene & Heard
25 A Note to My Younger Self
36 What’s Selling: Outdoor Specialty
38 Shoe Salon
40 Last Shot
On the cover: Marcella dual side zipper moto boots; harness biker boots by Twisted X
Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; models: Olivia Schofield/Fenton Model Mgmt., Eli Forant/New York Model Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli/Ray Brown Pro; photo assistant: Raymond Collette; photo and styling assistant: Nellyfer Espinoza.
EDITORIAL
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors
Kathleen O’Reilly Fashion Editor
Rosemary O’Connell Art Director
Kathy Passero Editor at Large
Mariah Walker Style Director
Ann Loynd Burton Unlaced Editor
Kiernan McCormick Contributing Editor
Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers
ADVERTISING Noelle Heffernan Publisher
Lizette Chin SVP/Group Publisher
Laurie Guptill Production Manager
Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director
Maria Martucci Office Manager
Mike Hoff Digital Director
WAINSCOT MEDIA
Carroll Dowden Chairman
Mark Dowden President & CEO
Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO
OFFICES
ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244
Ads: Noelle.Heffernan@ Wainscotmedia.com
Editorial: Greg.Dutter@ Wainscotmedia.com
CIRCULATION One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244
Circ@Wainscotmedia.com
IN A WORLD GONE wicked, what evil lurks ahead in 2025? Tariffs, drones, retribution, AI, hot and cold wars, weather extremes, witch hunts, mass deportations, port strikes, political chasms, pet eaters, transgender athletes competing against women, oh my! Pick your villain, real, imagined, or hyped. A sense of uncertainty hangs in the air like fog. Can a swarm of flying monkeys be far behind? Maybe those mysterious drones recently spotted in the night skies over New Jersey are the modern-day equivalent.
Alas, something wicked this way will surely come in 2025. That’s inevitable in our world, where good and evil battle it out on a daily basis. It seems the dark side has been on a winning streak of late. Dictators, both real and aspiring, are committing scorched earth acts, leaving disruption, destruction, and death in their wake. I find it fitting that even the wizard depicted in the box office smash Wicked is a ruthless dictator fixated on abolishing freedoms. How apropos. As Dorothy put it, we’re not in Kansas anymore—or any place that feels familiar and safe. Where’s the yellow brick road when we need it?
But press on we must, with our best-laid plans and good intentions. That’s exactly what we’ve done in this issue, which kicks off our 35th year covering the industry’s tireless efforts to keep the world well-shod.
Our 300th Q&A (p. 10) catches up with Prasad Reddy, CEO of Twisted X Global Brands (TXGB). Like the long line of execs who precede him in this forum, Reddy is fixated on the best way to guide his company forward. This year will undoubtedly bring challenges, but Reddy doesn’t let that overwhelm him. In 53 years of industry experience, he’s learned how to chart a course for success. 2025 marks TXGB’s 20th anniversary, which makes it an even more joyous one than usual for Reddy. He’s proud of what the company has grown into during his 16-year tenure as CEO. Most of all, he’s proud of the talented team that has coalesced around the brand’s core values of innovation, sustainability, and philanthropy.
Our “Resolutions and Revelations” feature (p. 16) asks leading wholesalers and retailers what their personal crystal balls reveal for 2025. Will it be a good year or a bad one? Looming tariff hikes look to be the deciding factor. If the price of shoes jumps notably, there will be far fewer sales. You don’t need AI to figure that out. Wars, economic uncertainty, port strikes, and changing weather patterns will also heavily impact the odds of success in 2025. Some companies will deem the road ahead insurmountable and pack it in. Munro Shoes, closing up shop after 52 years, is one recent example. Fortunately, our customer base isn’t consolidating. Nor
will AI replace shoes any time soon. Growth opportunities abound for those still in the game!
On that note, our issue is coursing with our industry’s lifeblood: the latest styles. For the boot issue, designers have put their best Fall/Winter ’25 looks forward, starting with our Trend Spotting series (p. 18), showcasing key color, silhouette, and material stories. Meanwhile, our moto-inspired fashion story (p. 26) features tough, versatile styles perfect for today’s rough and tumble world.
Putting millions of people in shoes season after season is no small feat. Hard work, talent, innovation, and dedication gets the job done—challenges be damned. 2025 will be no exception.
A new year brings hope for better days. And hope is like oxygen. It sustains the human spirit. It fuels dreams. It even helps Dorothy get home to Kansas—with the aid of magic ruby slippers! I find them the perfect symbol of our industry’s importance to the world—not to mention women’s endless love affair with shoes. No wonder a pair of ruby slippers worn by Judy Garland in the Wizard of Oz
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
HOW DO YOU digest one of the world’s largest shoe shows? The simple answer is: one hall, aisle, and booth at a time. Of course, at 1,000-plus exhibitors, displaying 1,800 brands, it’s not humanly possible to swallow it entirely in three days—even if Show Director Laura Conwell-O’Brien is opening the show an hour earlier (appointments only) and closing an hour later each day for the upcoming Feb. 15-17 edition.
The fact is that many lesser-known and newer brands exhibiting in the adjacent Renaissance Hotel are hungry for foot traffic. Try as they may (and they must at least try), scheduling appointments in advance is a tall order when many buyers are booked solid with established brand partners. So Conwell-O’Brien, ever the accommodating host, has sweetened the pot with the debut of the “Walk the Floor Challenge.” A sticker will be awarded by each booth a buyer visits. The buyers who accumulate the most stickers on their card will then be entered into a drawing, on the last day, with one winner receiving $500. You don’t have to be present for the drawing.
“It’s long been a challenge to lead buyers over to the Renaissance to shop those exhibitors,” ConwellO’Brien says, noting that’s despite extensive signage, footprints leading the way, and complementary bar service. “I can’t hand-carry retailers there, but this should incentivize a lot of them to at least see what’s there and maybe they’ll buy something.”
Marty Rose, distribution manager for All Black, says its outreach efforts start with a target of “must-see” accounts and requests to book appointments in advance ASAP. “We create an appointment calendar with a max of 30 minutes per customer,” he says. “We also book appointments during setup day.” A successful Atlanta show, Rose adds, involves meeting with all key current customers, which is at least 30 to 40 boutique stores and three to four majors. The product must also speak for itself. “We need to wow buyers with styles and constructions never seen before—eye candy that brings in at least three to five new customers into our booth.”
Shopping a show as massive as Atlanta requires commitment and stamina. For Adam Beck, CEO of Beck’s Shoes, a 20-plus store chain in the western U.S., it requires meeting with as many vendors as possible, wherever they may be located. “We must prioritize the relationships we have with all our niche vendors, as well as prepare strategies to communicate to our biggest volume vendor partners,” he explains. “Having a clear path forward with all parties on the same page gives us our best shot at success.” Nonetheless, Beck says there is room for improvement on shopping brands outside the main hall. “We need to make more of an effort to visit these vendors and, at the very least, do a walk by,” he says. “We’re guilty of not doing this enough, which adversely affects our business by not bringing in additional niche brands. We aim to do better as a team this year to accomplish this.”
Of course, exhibitors can offer their own incentives to attract traffic. In addition, just looking interested can be a draw. Because the oft-seen brand representative sitting in a booth with their head down, scrolling through a phone, doesn’t exactly scream, come on in!
“Why would anyone show more interest in being in your booth than you do,” proposes Josh Habre, CEO of ERHCo, owners of 14 comfort stores in the Pacific Northwest and distributors of Ziera and Django and Juliette. As relatively new brands to the U.S. market, he says drawing traffic starts before the show. “Call and email prospective retailers, send a line sheet, invite them to come by. Old school works,” Habre says. “And at the show, make it look like you’ve had interest in your products, whether you have or haven’t. Leave a couple of interesting styles on the table as if someone had just laid it out and you are ‘redoing’ the booth.”
Sam Spears, president of Ara North America, also believes in the power of old-school outreach, which should start months in advance of a show. “It’s constant contact with existing customers and prospective ones, be it in person, emails, and phone,” he says. “To be successful, relationshipbuilding happens regularly throughout the year. Then, when you ask for an appointment at a show, the account will be much more willing to make one because you’ve been ever-present getting to know their business better, understanding their needs and their customer, and building a relationship that isn’t simply transactional but, rather, mutually beneficial.”
Habre says his buying team is always on the hunt for fresh or unique product, be it style, color, and technology. The team carves out several hours each show to just walk the aisles and scout for newness. “Oftentimes the smaller, unique brands aren’t in the main hall, so getting out there is very important,” he says. “Maybe we’ll find something that fits into our mix and maybe not, but we have to look.”
Not bothering or claiming to be too busy is a lost opportunity. The next Hoka or Birkenstock could be down one of those aisles. Same goes for attending the show’s complimentary Cocktail Party & Casino Night on the first night, the Two Ten WIFI social the second night in the show lounge, and the NSRA seminars being held the day before (NextGen Leadership Program) and the morning of day two about using AI for everyday business tasks. Networking is critically important.
Spears advises buyers to make a plan and stick to it, noting that the show provides reams of information well in advance to help create a game plan. For comfort buyers, that should include walking the fashion segments. “They need to block off time to walk those areas to see what will be influencing their buys in the coming seasons,” he says, adding that the NSRA seminars and industry parties are also worthwhile. “It’s very easy to find reasons to not do something, but the show is only three days, every 180 days, so work every minute and it’ll be a wonderful investment of your time,” Spears says. “You get out of the show what you put into it.”
BILL VAN DIS was one-of-a-kind, not to mention a loyal customer of Spring Footwear (makers of L’Artiste, Spring Step, Patrizia, Azura, and Flexus) for decades. Owners David and Avi Ben Zikry have honored that relationship by naming a Fall/Winter ’25 Spring Step style after the third generation, Kalamazoo, MI-based, sit-and-fit retailer, which celebrated its 100th anniversary last year. It’s only fitting (pun intended).
“We enjoyed working with Bill for more than 30 years,” says David Ben Zikry. “He always appreciated our products and quality. We all felt great admiration for him and knew we had to honor him in some way.”
Once all the new styles were received in Spring Footwear’s Pompano Beach, FL, headquarters the team jumped on a Zoom call to debate what shoe would best honor Van Dis. “Bill always had a great eye,” says account manager John D’Hondt, who first met Van Dis in 2009 and served as his Spring Footwear rep since 2022. “For the eponymous style, we knew it had to have longevity, commercial appeal, and the ability to make good margin for retailers.”
The unanimously chosen “Vandis” bootie features butter leather uppers, soft vamp ruching for texture appeal, contrast retro stitching, decorative elastic laces with playful tips, a contrasting leather band for a sleek, modern edge, and an edgy outsole. The team says it’s the perfect blend of comfort and
modern flair, and it exudes effortless style—all criteria for such an honor, as Van Dis was renowned for his eye for product, great customer service, community engagement, and Midwest nice demeanor. A savvy businessman, he also knew how to deliver turn and margin with the best of Shoe Dogs.
“Bill knew a good shoe when he saw one!” says Larry Goodman, national sales manager for Spring Footwear. “He had so much knowledge and insight on the business; it was always a pleasure speaking with him. His big smile and warm personality will be missed.” Adds Ben Zikry, “We feel like we’ve lost a family member, but Bill will always remain part of our lives.”
Reach 20,000 industry members through our weekly forum featuring the latest in footwear and fashion news.
UNLACED is a weekly digital forum created by the editorial team of Footwear Plus . Its fresh, visual, and engaging format features unique coverage of the dynamic world of shoes, including street fashion, runway reports, brand launches, retail trends, celebrity sightings, social media fads, videos, and much more. UNLACED is not just another newsletter.
footwearplusmagazine.com/unlaced Let’s work together! Noelle Heffernan, 917-886-6669 noelle.heffernan@wainscotmedia.com
BY GREG DUTTER
Prasad Reddy, CEO of Twisted X Global Brands, on how the 20-year-old company is only just getting started.
LAST MONTH, PRASAD REDDY was deep in his element, attending the annual National Finals Rodeo and Cowboy Christmas gift expo in Las Vegas. The 10-day dual extravaganza draws upwards of 500,000 Western sport and lifestyle fans. It was another can’t-miss opportunity for the CEO of Twisted X Global Brands (TXGB) to meet face-to-face with thousands of end consumers who stopped by to peruse the company’s latest collections of Twisted X, Black Star, and Wrangler Footwear on display at seven retail partner booths.
“I love interacting with end consumers and learning what they like, what they’re looking for, and what they’re wearing,” Reddy says. “They give great input on our products. It’s very helpful.”
It never gets old for Reddy. His quest to gather feedback and data to help TXGB innovate, evolve, and adapt is relentless. What’s more, he’s been at it for 53 years and counting. Many execs would have clocked out by this time, opting for pickleball over attending gift expos in Sin City in the middle of the holiday season. Not Reddy. He’s not “reddy” to retire anytime soon. The way he sees it, TXGB is a young buck with a long and fruitful life ahead, and overseeing it helps keeps him young. Besides, pickleball is not Reddy’s cup of tea. “My body tells me that sport isn’t for me,” he laughs. “It’s much easier and more enjoyable to walk a trade show and speak with end consumers.”
TXGB trucked about 12,000 pairs to the expo and sold about half, a level consistent with previous years. Reddy, though, wasn’t there to wrangle sales; he was there for the reams of consumer feedback. That’s worth its weight in gold, he says. “Introducing our brands and styles to as many consumers as possible is a great marketing opportunity for us,” he says. This time, the opportunity included early reads on CellStretch Active, Feather X, and Calf Stretch collections debuting this year. The three athletic-based product innovations are the company’s latest efforts to introduce breakthrough technologies.
CellStretch Active and Feather X are Twisted X’s takes on a “Western sneaker.” The hybrid features the company’s patented CellStretch cushioning technology, which activates 100 individual points of comfort hidden in the heel and ball of the foot, all housed in country style. Call it street rodeo. Reddy says the initial response is promising. He hopes it will generate buzz in the
• Minnetonka
• R. Watson Boots
• Rios of Mercedes
• Liberty Black
• Old Gringo
• Tecovas
• Ariat
• Corral Boots
• Lucchese
• Justin
• Twisted X
• Hyer
dallasmarketcenter.com / @dallasmarket
marketplace, especially in women’s. “Casual lifestyle in men’s has been good of late, but the women’s side has been soft,” he says. “We’re hoping CellStretch Active and Feather X will help grow that segment this year.” That market can be a tough nut to crack because its customer base is very traditional and often resistant to change. “It can take some time to convince them of product innovations that appear different, but the reaction from people young and old at the expo was strong,” Reddy adds.
The same holds true for Calf Stretch, another hidden comfort technology that enables the boot shaft to stretch to accommodate a larger calf size. The technology is cleverly hidden underneath the pull-on loops at the top of the shaft. It’s like Spanx for boots. “A lot of women seek a better fit, but don’t want the boots to look any different,” Reddy explains. “They don’t want the boots to look bigger. Calf Stretch expands, but you can’t tell from the outside. We think there’s a huge potential market for this innovation.”
These product enhancements reflect TXGB’s longstanding commitment to introduce a new technology every six months. It’s all part of the company’s ongoing mission to improve every facet of its business. This extends to becoming a better corporate citizen. Sustainability and philanthropic ROIs aren’t always quantifiable, but Reddy believes in doing the right thing. It’s good karma, and it helps attract talent. A “terrific” team has coalesced around him since he took the helm 16 years ago, one he credits with driving double-digit growth over many of those years. That includes increasing sales by 50 percent during the pandemic, when TXGB bet on investing heavily in inventory while many competitors drastically cut back. When shelf space opened up, the company took full advantage. Indeed, TXGB has come a long way since it emerged from bankruptcy in 2008.
“We’re definitely in a lot better shape than when I arrived. More than anything, we’re better for the type of people who work with us now,” Reddy says. “We’ve been very fortunate to attract great people, and they tend to stick around.” The team is on the same page when it comes to TXGB’s mission to make a meaningful difference across its product categories and the communities it serves, he adds. “We’re all working toward the same goal, constantly trying to improve our efforts in sustainability, philanthropy, product development, and retail partnerships,” Reddy says. “It’s a great place to work. I’m very proud to say that. We learn and work together. It’s always evolving. We have to keep on moving forward.”
The company will celebrate its 20th anniversary in 2025 with special product introductions, in-store events with long-time customers, and other celebratory tie-ins. It’s definitely a milestone
worthy of acknowledgement, but Reddy’s team stays focused on the future, working diligently to innovate, evolve, and grow. He remains as bullish as ever. (The logo at the most recent sales meeting was a soaring eagle.) Reddy sees growth potential across the Western, work (the company’s fastestgrowing segment of late), and streetwear categories. “Street retailers like our casual styles because of our Western flair. It’s something different and allows us to gain some shelf space within that tier,” he notes. Then there is the remaining two-thirds of the country that has largely yet to be introduced
to TXGB’s brands. The increased distribution potential alone is “tremendous.” Perhaps it’s only fitting that one of Reddy’s favorite songs is the Carpenters’ classic “We’ve Only Just Begun.”
“We’re still a very young company,” Reddy says. “We have a long way to go.”
Happy 20th anniversary. What does that milestone mean to you?
For starters, it means we’re no longer teenagers and just entering adulthood. We have a long way ahead of us. That said, it’s a great achievement. We survived
What are you reading? I just finished Invention: A Life by James Dyson. He’s a very engineer- and product-oriented person who has gone from one great innovation to the next. But he almost went bankrupt two or three times trying to bring his famous vacuum cleaner to the market. He believed in it and kept at it. And now he has the Dyson Institute of Engineering and Technology where students are employed while receiving a free education. He’s an amazing man.
What was the last movie and series you watched? The last movie was Lone Survivor Yellowstone is the series I’m watching.
What is inspiring you right now?
I lost my mother recently. She was 96. She had a great life, but it reminds me that life is fragile and we’re all here for a relatively short time. So I’m inspired by our company finding ways of making a meaningful difference in our product, business, and the communities we serve.
Where is your moment of Zen? First, when I see our shoes on someone’s feet, and they rave
about the comfort. That’s just so satisfying. Second, when we help someone in need and see the gratitude and happiness on their face. That’s especially the case with KidsMatter, a charitable organization we donate shoes to. Seeing the smiles of the many children receiving their first pair of new shoes is priceless.
What superpower would you most like to have? To eradicate disease, poverty, pollution, etc.
Who has been the greatest influence on you? Definitely my mother, father, and first teacher. They gave me good basic values and showed me how to live the right way. There have also been many other people at various stages of my career. And then there’s Jeff Bezos. While I’m not in favor of his entire business model, I admire his relentless pursuit of finding out what consumers are looking for and delivering on that based on the fundamentals of innovation, value, and speed.
What keeps you awake at night? Fortunately, I’ve been blessed and I’m not constantly worrying. But I am constantly thinking about what we can do
to get better, be it through new products, within our company, or in our community. That can keep me up at times, but that’s ok. I don’t mind losing sleep over those matters.
What are you most hopeful for?
As a country, I’m hopeful that we’ll introduce more ways to treat our veterans better. There should be more programs to provide assistance in housing, jobs, and healthcare for them after they’ve served. We can and need to do better.
How would you like to be reincarnated? I’d like to be a human being, as opposed to an animal or a tree. I want to be able to help people. I want to be a life guide.
With the rise of AI, will humans even be necessary for that in the not too distant future? Fair question. I’m okay with AI helping in areas like designing product and streamlining manufacturing. But I believe human thought and interaction should remain very much a part of the product process. AI still needs human input. We need to be careful not to take ourselves out of the process entirely.
JAN. 7-8
FEB. 5-6
FEB. 15-17
“WHILE SOME OF OUR COMPETITORS DON’T LIKE IT
WHEN I SPORT MY ‘NO DTC’ CAP AT TRADE SHOWS, I STRONGLY
BELIEVE THAT IF WE’RE TO BE TRUE PARTNERS WITH OUR RETAILERS—THE ONES WHO BROUGHT US TO THE DANCE—THEN WE SHOULDN’T COMPETE DIRECTLY AGAINST THEM.”
—Prasad Reddy, CEO, Twisted X Global
bankruptcy in 2008, the Financial Crisis, the retail apocalypse, a pandemic, etc., etc. We kept growing through all of that. I credit that entirely to our team. They kept working hard through all these difficult challenges and unknowns, and we stuck together and built this company. But we’ve only just begun.
A lot of execs say the business is more challenging of late compared to some past difficult stretches. Do you agree?
I don’t think any more so. Every year presents different sets of challenges. We just have to find ways to overcome them. The one thing we can’t do is stand still. If we do that then someone else is likely to pass us by. We have to keep finding ways to innovate, grow, adapt, evolve…whatever it takes to survive and thrive. In one sense, challenges are ok, because there are always opportunities as a result of them.
Like the decision to invest heavily in inventory after the pandemic hit?
Yes. We increased sales more than 50 percent from 2020 to 2022. We made the decision in March of 2020 to invest in inventory. Fortunately, we were in a strong financial position to do so, and we believed that the business would be there—that a lot of retailers would be low on inventory once their stores reopened. We also expanded our customer service department by 25 percent during that time because we expected that there would be increased demand. Retailers would be calling, and we wanted to take care of them properly. Fortunately, all those investments paid off very well.
Still, it was a big risk on your part. Oh, for sure. A couple of our board members questioned my thinking, as did others in the industry. But when I explained our logic, our board agreed that it made sense. That doesn’t mean they would have done it themselves, though. But we never dreamed of that sales increase. I can’t take credit for that.
Speaking of growth, how was 2024 for TXGB?
It was a good year, but not great by any means. We’re happy with our double-digit sales growth, product innovations, and our community engagements. Our patented technologies, CellStretch Active, Feather X, and Calf Stretch, were developed over the course of the year and will debut in 2025. So, all in all, it was a pretty good year.
How much might the growing popularity of Western lifestyle play in TXGB’s growth?
People want to get back to their roots. We call it country lifestyle. It includes country music, which is so popular among a broad array of fans. There’s also the enormous popularity of shows like Yellowstone Nashville has become one of the top tourist destinations. There’s also a population shift to states where the country lifestyle is more mainstream. It’s all contributing to the growing popularity of Western lifestyle trends. It’s a macro movement.
How much has the work category contributed to TXGB’s recent growth?
Work is our fastest-growing segment. Two years ago, we hired Kevin Barger as general manager of the division. His previous stops included Black Diamond (licensee for Carhartt) and Timberland Pro. He has brought along many of those distribution connections. Quite a few of those retailers had heard of Twisted X but they didn’t really know much about our products. Now we’re penetrating those markets with some big-name distributors. Many of them did tests last year and we feel 2025 is going to be another good year of growth in that segment.
Many would suggest that another avenue of growth for TXGB would be DTC. Yet you remain adamant on not going down that road. Why? We absolutely won’t. While some of our competitors don’t like it when I sport my “No DTC” cap
at trade shows, I strongly believe that if we’re to be true partners with our retailers—the ones who brought us to the dance—then we shouldn’t compete directly against them. Just look at the state of some brands that led with a DTC strategy. It’s not easy for them to expand into wholesale. Same goes for some wholesale brands that leaned heavily into the channel. I will add, though, that it can be frustrating at times because it’s not always been a two-way street in equal support. Some of our customers buy from brands that are heavily into DTC. But I also understand that they’re independent businesspeople and they need to do what they believe is best for their businesses.
Well, there are some valid arguments presented to selling DTC, like being able to present full collections, increasing sales and profits, cleaning out old inventory. It’s also a consumer expectation to be able to buy direct.
There is some truth in all of that. There are people who join our company, as well as plenty of industry associates, who often tell me that we’d increase our business 20 to 25 percent within 12 months if we went DTC. My response to all of them is that may be true, but how much business would we lose by doing so? Secondly, we don’t need to do that. We’re doing well. We’re growing. There are segments of the market that we haven’t yet even explored yet. Above all, we want to continue to grow with the values that we believe in. Not competing directly with our retail partners is a big part of our values system. So everyone in our company is clear on this point: adding a DTC channel is non-negotiable.
Pretty sure no public company could ever say no to a 20 percent growth opportunity within 12 months.
It’d be very tempting, for sure. But as a privately owned company, it’s not necessarily as tempting
Twisted X’s new Feather X and CellStretch Active collections blend atheltic comfort with a dose of Western style.
for us. First off, we don’t have to meet shareholder demands. We can keep on doing the right thing. So we won’t compromise our values to achieve those sales. Like I mentioned, we’re growing nicely and we don’t need to risk those relationships that we’ve worked so hard to build.
How much is no DTC part of the conversation when meeting with potential new accounts?
Very much so. We instruct our sales reps and management to make that part of the presentation right from the beginning. It’s part of our core values, which also include sustainability and philanthropy. We want to be true partners. A couple of years ago, Jim Conroy, the former CEO of Boot Barn, told us that we were a true partner and everyone else is a vendor. It’s nice that he made a point to recognize that. Of course, Boot Barn sells other brands, but I think they rewarded us with some more shelf space because of our unique partnership. Similarly, another one of our big customers told us recently that it tries to fill its needs first with our brands and then looks at others. And another important customer, who spoke at our recent sales meeting, noted how we became their number-one casual and work brand, and a key factor was our no DTC policy. They appreciated it very much and invested more in us. So I believe that we get a little bit more market share because of our refusal to sell DTC.
TXGB at least gets points for maintaining its integrity, which has played a key role in reaching its 20th anniversary, no?
I definitely believe so. Short-term approaches don’t work if it’s at the expense of long-term health.
What’s the biggest challenge facing the company this year?
The potential impact of tariffs, which look likely. Specifically, how we navigate whatever they might be. We can’t pass on the entire increase.
How much of your sourcing could be impacted?
A whole lot. China and Mexico account for 97 percent of our production. We source a bit in Myanmar and El Salvador. So we could
What are you planning to do?
We’re looking at moving some production elsewhere, but footwear is hard to move, whereas apparel is much easier. We’ve talked to a few sourcing options. But other countries like Vietnam, India, and other BRICS countries…Trump is talking about possibly adding tariffs there, too. You won’t necessarily be able to run away from all of it. So that’s our biggest challenge for 2025. We’ll have to absorb some of those costs. If it’s a 10 percent tariff, we probably don’t have to pass on more than two to 2.5 percent of those costs to consumers. The factories will have to absorb some costs and we’ll have to take a hit on margins as well. But what happens usually when tariffs are applied is the local currency depreciates, and since we buy in dollars that helps offset some of those price increases. If we sell-in enough we can absorb most of that cost.
war going on around the world?
I think our country is in a relatively great position right now. Yes, there is going to be some uncertainty with a new administration. But our economy is still strong, unemployment is low, and more jobs are being created. I think there are a lot of positives that we can be thankful for, and I expect it’s going to be a good year as a result. We all should at least give Trump the opportunity to try and make the improvements he claims he can make.
Where do you envision TXGB in three years?
What if Trump issues 100 percent tariffs, like he’s threatened?
Then 2025 is going to be case of lots of lost sales across the entire industry. Casual shoe prices would likely rise from $100 to $130, and boots from $200 to around $270. That would be impossible to absorb entirely. And lots of consumers would pass on paying significantly more. Whatever the decision, the shoe industry will not be returning to the U.S. like Trump has suggested manufacturing jobs would as a result of tariffs. Nearly the entire industry, including materials and components, is based in Asia. It’s just not practical to move. That said, I think Trump will raise tariffs 10 percent on China and possibly 25 percent on Mexico. The caveat being there might be a lot of posturing and negotiating, and it might take a year or two to fully implement. He did that early in his first term,
Still innovating, evolving, and growing. Personally, I’m having as much fun as ever. It might be toward the end stage of my career, but I still love what I do and we’re having a lot of success. We’re making a difference, creating new products, and helping our communities. It’s all very rewarding.
What do you love most about your job?
It’s changed quite a bit over the years, but it’s lot of things. One is that I love that our company works as a team. We’re all like spokes in a wheel helping us roll forward. Everyone has the same values, is on the same page, and is committed to keep doing the right things in regard to best practices, product, sustainability, philanthropy, partnerships, etc. We’re all marching in the same band. I love that. Selling shoes is really a means to an end, but this is not the end. Family, faith, and friends are the most important aspects that stem from our hard work that makes money to support all of those important aspects of life. That’s what I love most. •
Industry leaders plan and predict the year ahead. Heads up, it might be a bumpy ride.
By Greg Dutter
PLANS AND PREDICTIONS for 2025 are in. Here, leading industry executives share their resolutions, goals, and crystal ball readings based on experience and in-depth analysis. Only hindsight will tell whether 2025 will be a smooth ride in the right direction. Until then, it’s full speed ahead despite the detours, potholes, traffic jams, and roadblocks that might be around the bend. Buckle up.
RESOLUTIONS: The aim is to surprise, which includes receiving Fall/Winter ’25 samples early enough to attend January shows and meeting extremely early product delivery dates. Another surprise: the launch of our first bag collection this fall.
GOALS: Continue double-digit growth in curated fashion and not just growth for growth’s sake. Launch a B2B platform. Better SKU management. Introduce an eco-friendly shoe box and a highly legible, retailer-friendly box end label.
PREDICTIONS: Our hands-free Easy2Go launch will be highly successful. Confusion in how to manage possible tariff increases, be it sourcing strategies, transportation challenges, and pricing. Tariffs could be a big interrupter in all aspects of American lives. Increased costs will reduce consumers’ willingness to spend on footwear and accessories. Return to office increases, which will cause dressier sales to surge, especially the comfort-dress category since the majority of consumers have been wearing sneakers for half a decade. The next must-have “it” item will emerge, igniting the industry. Weather extremes and lack of true seasons will impact sourcing and create the need for more transitional styles. Instability and violence in developing regions will have unforeseen impacts on global trade. Labor relations at domestic ports will keep strong pressure to ship from country of origin and import earlier to hedge any bets.
Ara will be debuting its first collection of bags this fall.
RESOLUTIONS: Focusing in on our 80/20 inventory rule. We believe that our team shouldn’t have to work hard to make the first sale happen and that 80 percent of our top line sales are driven from the top 20 percent of styles displayed. We need to focus on how we can earn another spot in our consumers’ closets. So, creating a second and even third pair sale of something that they haven’t purchased from us before.
GOALS: Improved inventory turn and cash flow to be positioned to take advantage of all opportunities! Continue to pour into our internal teams to develop and teach them everything we know. Continue to work with are proprietary software developer to integrate AI with all our buying and inventory management systems.
PREDICTIONS: I see healthy, slow growth while earning loyalty from our end consumers. I also see the average length of employment from our team members growing. Tariff increases will create a domino effect from the supply chain to wholesale to retail to all consumers. We must combat this through added value. We need to roll the red carpet out to each customer—offer them a water, take pride in our visual appearance, and train staff daily for five-minute bursts. We’re at retail war, and the business needs to be taken more seriously than ever before. Not a prediction, but a hopeful end to the Middle East and Ukraine wars that can only help business in general. Fear is a big emotion that absolutely drives purchasing patterns and consumer confidence. Fear is also affecting our country regarding a new administration. Unity as a nation is truly the biggest issue that Americans are facing. I focus on what I can control to affect positive change. Control the controllables is my north star.
RESOLUTIONS: As a 100 percent employeeowned (ESOP) company, our resolutions must include providing a sustainable path to prosperity for our employees and their families. A culture that nurtures our commitment to listening to our employees, consumers, and retailers is key to achieving the growth necessary to accomplish that. To that end, our leadership team has committed to meet our consumer where she is—stores, festivals, conferences, etc.—to learn and respond to her needs. We’ve resolved to spend much more time out of the office in 2025. We’re calling it our “epic road trip.”
GOALS: Supporting women in pursuit of meaningful work. Growth.
PREDICTIONS: Dansko will show up in new ways in 2025, which will lead to deeper relationships with our key independent retailers and consumers. Our industry will continue to consolidate, the survivors will be retailers and brands that understand their brand (less me too, stronger brand identity) and how it connects with consumers. I wish that I could be as optimistic for our planet. Grace, kindness, and hope have taken a back seat. But then I’m reminded that there are still people that care about the planet. Dansko founders Mandy and Peter Cabot’s latest endeavor includes putting hundreds of thousands of acres of rain forest in Belize into preservations. We just don’t celebrate people like them enough. Prioritization and celebration go hand in hand. When one is absent the other follows. So, I have deep concerns about what the crystal ball says about the fate of our planet.
THE BIG STORY IN 2025 WILL BE TRUMP, TARIFFS, AI, WAR: That’s a tough one. There is the “what should be” versus the “what will be.” I’d put AI, the Middle East and Ukraine wars, and global warming in the former column. I believe that all things Trump will be the biggest story, and history will decide what kind of story it is.
RESOLUTIONS: Just constantly upgrading our level of customer service mostly through education and product knowledge. Basically, everything that we’ve been doing for years but just to raise the bar. Also, work more with the medical community.
GOALS: It’s always to increase margins, which is very hard to do in this difficult environment. To increase multiple sales through education of our sales staff. We’re implementing goals for our management that ties them into the success of increasing those sales. To foster more of a team environment. If someone isn’t helping a customer, then instead of just standing there they’ll introduce themselves to one being serviced. It’s a tag team effort to make customers feel extra special.
THE BIG STORY IN 2025 WILL BE: Everyone in the industry is afraid of the potential tariffs situation. On the one hand, higher price points are good for us, but our initiative to increase multiple sales won’t happen much if prices go up $20. The fact is it’s a very difficult environment. Last year our sales were up just a little bit. July, for some reason, and November with the warm weather were tough months. But then we had some decent months and along with some really kick-ass days and then you think: We’re still relevant. They’re coming into our stores to buy shoes. It’s very encouraging. Tariffs aside, if we can increase our multiple sales, raise the level of our in-store experience, and make customers feel like they’re in good hands, then I expect we’ll be ok.
RESOLUTIONS: Our team is committed to reinventing itself at all levels and departments. While our business starts with Shoes and People, every area will be reviewed to ensure that we put our best foot forward every day. We aim to constantly ask ourselves if we are in the best position to provide the very best shopping experience for our customers. Do this alone, and achieving most revenue targets, without unforeseen circumstances, will follow.
GOALS: Our top goal is to provide for everything that belongs in our customer’s closet. We offer dress, boots, sandals, flats, and pumps. We also just launched a casual line, which was met with terrific results at FFANY. Our customers seek a bit more in terms of fashion, details, construction,
management more important than ever. Issues like tariffs and port strikes will continue to loom over our industry until they are resolved. Strategic approaches to mitigate risk and ensuring our fundamentals are solidly in place will help us weather these storms. Ironically, neither of these issues may end up being the biggest stories of the year. One area that may not be talked about as much that will become a larger story is the changing consumer sentiment and purchasing habits, along with the shortened seasonality of key product classifications. For example, the shorter life cycles of selling boots and sandals require a new strategic look at planning and product development. Merchandising and marketing fundamentals will be more important topics than ever.
RESOLUTIONS: Just keep on doing the right things with regards to business, sustainability, philanthropy, and innovative products. It’s always about what’s next. That said, our goals aren’t so much about hitting certain percentage growth targets. Rather, we have distribution goals, because we want more retailers to know about our brands. So our sales goals are more internal.
PREDICTIONS: Every year is challenging, and 2025 looks to be no different with the change in leadership in the country. There will be challenges based on what Trump decides to do. The possibilities of increased tariffs, by far, loom as the biggest one.
RESOLUTIONS: To adopt a new understanding of what expanded role I play in my local small business community, what I want to be known for, and what further impact I can have with my shoe designs and collections. I’ve streamlined my buying strategy since Covid. Instead of representing a vast array of brands and only showcasing a few styles, I’ve narrowed it down to a key select designers and expanded SKUs. This way I can really showcase a collection and tell a story. It’s great for merchandising, too!
GOALS: My top goal is to continue designing my own brand Bus Stop X, which is a collaboration with All Black Footwear. I’ve been designing custom styles with them since 2015, and I’d like to expand to different silhouettes.
THE BIGGEST STORY OF 2025 WILL BE TRUMP, TARIFFS, AI, WAR: It’s a combination
of all those, but the one that worries me the most are Trump’s tariffs as it will make the cost of goods go up quite a lot. Will our customers be willing to pay extra? I don’t think so! And of course, I’d love to see the end of all wars. It saddens me that so many innocent lives are being lost, and in general it doesn’t help business. Consumers are definitely affected negatively by it.
RESOLUTIONS:
about sales performance in 2024, focus only on the future growth!
GOALS:
customer base and add at least three new customers from every trade show attended in 2025.
PREDICTIONS:
crystal ball sees many new styles that con tinue to separate All Black from the core competition. We also see capacity challenges and balancing quality control with growth demands as key issues to conquer. A growth in importance of color. A world seen only in black, white, gray, and brown will change dramatically. Real growth in color appreciation and designs that focus on color dominance will lead the footwear designer trends across all sectors.
THE BIGGEST STORY OF 2025: Trump/tariffs will be the big story, but the situation may be easier than expected. The new tariffs should be on items and services that impact the production process versus being added onto the finished product. We can gradually take price increases if the higher price is to justify a higher quality product. But increasing the price of shoes just to cover tariffs will backfire.
RESOLUTIONS: Continue to expand our online presence since the majority of purchases have shifted to this venue. This is the only way for brickand-mortar retailers to survive in today’s market!
GOALS: To increase our international presence, which largely went the way of the dodo during the pandemic. Much of the planet is back on track, and we’re again focusing on the Japanese and many other markets, knowing that we can rekindle our presence with very little effort.
PREDICTIONS: My crystal ball says it’s all about the ongoing shift to online sales. The challenge is acclimating the business to understand the related dynamics for our retailers, how to deal with credit and returns, how to develop an understanding of what the majority of their clients want from them and to focus their merchandising accordingly. •
Simmer over these soothing hues.
Battle-tested military looks are at the fashion front.
Chelsea boots come in myriad shapes and colors.
In a world gone mocha mousse mad,
Cozy fur treatments add textural appeal and warmth.
Sleek and spiffy Chelsea boots are a go-to stye for guys.
John D’Hondt, account executive for Spring Footwear Corp., looks back on a fruitful career in retail and wholesale sales.
DEAR JOHN…Do you remember one of the last arguments you had with your mother? It was Sept. 10, 1990, and you had just accepted a job with JCPenney. Mom was livid that you’d be selling shoes when you were supposed to be focusing on finishing college. You told her that you could balance both. Plus, the job paid $4.60 an hour with nine percent commission. She wasn’t sold. She kept saying: “The more money you make, the less important college will become.”
Mom was right. There is no way you could make a living off that hourly wage, but that commission is a game changer. You quickly discover that by being helpful to customers and doing your job well you can earn good money. College does become less important. You leave and embark on a sales career in the footwear industry—the wrath of Mom, God rest her soul, be damned! Fear not. I’m writing in 2025 to tell you that you made the right decision!
Your big break (and career epiphany) comes while working the floor one day in late 1991. That’s when this dapper man, pulling two large rolling cases, saunters into the department. His name is Wes. He’s a sales rep for Stacy Adams. You’re enthralled watching him from afar unwrap each sample and present them to your boss. Then she calls you over for input. Suddenly, this 20-year-old kid has a voice in the decision-making. Boy, did you feel like a $100, and that’s when a $100 meant something! Soon after, you graduate to merchandiser’s assistant, offering input on an array of buying decisions. You begin steadily building that sixth sense on what makes for strong brands and styles. It’s a skillset that serves you well throughout your career.
The former includes John Brown of Munro, who teaches you that loyalty and passion for a brand leads to success. And trunk show pro Roger Butler, a rep for J. Renee, shows you how a consummate professional opens doors. You kid that he needs to sell more shoes so you can work for him.
Damned if he doesn’t call in late 2009! Aunt Kate just passed, so your time as a caregiver has ended and you need a change. You crossover to the wholesale side at Phoenix Footwear Group. It’s all promising until that first set of samples arrives. WOOF! You left a sure gig with benefits to sell these dogs? What were you thinking ? Nonetheless, you press forward, utilizing your shoe eye talents. The collections improve, sales grow, and you become an Account Executive, which is just a fancy title for sales rep. Over the ensuing nine years, your customers consistently make money, and the brands (Soft Walk and Trotters) grow in size and prestige.
After about six years, it’s time for a new challenge. You jump, in 1996, to Nordstrom, the mecca that Mom spent a fortune at where you grew up in Washington. The chain is opening its first Michigan outpost. You drive a long distance to apply in person. You’re nervous milling among more people than there are positions. You fret about being a simple guy who, to this point, has catered to price-conscious consumers. What do you know about affluent shoppers? Apparently enough. You get your foot in the door as a salesperson! Let this be a reminder: never underestimate yourself.
Likewise, never underestimate the power of making good contacts. Many great colleagues-turned-friends are key to your career advancement. They always take time to guide and advise you. Remember to do the same. One of the secrets to success in business is realizing that people are different but inherently want the same thing: to be treated with respect. That is one of the Golden Rules of salesmanship. Most people also welcome opportunities to keep learning and evolving. During your 13-plus years at Nordstrom you rise from salesperson to assistant manager to rack shoe manager to department manager. You’re forever grateful for the opportunities. You’ve come a long way from meeting dapper Wes and his rolling cases!
Speaking of reps, you’ll meet all kinds. Some great and some not so hot.
But there is still something missing from your life. You want to give back to your local community. Fate steps in when you’re appointed to the Eastpointe, MI, planning commission at the behest of a former mayor. You’re thrust into ordinances, zoning matters, and public hearings. You love it! It brings back fond memories of volunteering for Shriner Children’s hospitals. Dad pounded away on needing to give back. He was right.
Your path includes a few unexpected twists and hurdles. That’s life. There’s the time you lose your job just before a pandemic in early 2020. It’s a very scary time. Fortunately, you’ve just been elected to the National Shoe Travelers board, an organization dedicated to assisting fellow reps. Its disaster relief fund and support from fellow members are lifesavers. You give back as much as you receive. Acting with honor, integrity, and compassion pay huge dividends. Your colleagues look out for you. A friend in Indiana asks if you want to manage one of her stores. It’s reassuring, in a time of great uncertainty, just to be wanted.
Then, in mid 2021, you receive a bunch of calls about a job opening at Spring Footwear Corp. The company is growing rapidly. You’re intrigued. But first you reach out to uber rep Stewart Hantman, the capo of reps and Shoe Mensch. He gives the inside scoop. You’re sold and jump in with both feet. Your Account Executive position stretches your skillset, forcing you to think outside of the box and find creative solutions. All those past selling and service training sessions come in handy. You also have learned not to overanalyze. Simply having fun—something that often evades the suits—is one of the best sales strategies. Above all, the key to success in sales stems from the relationships you build, which spans fitting stools to trade show tables.
Now just think if you’d listened to Mom and focused on pursuing that degree. You’d probably be sitting in some cubicle, doing mundane tasks that offers nowhere near the excitement and rewards of human-facing interaction. You’re a born salesperson! Embrace it and enjoy the ride!
UIDED BY THE dream of turning a passion for the outdoors into a lifestyle, friends Larry Lane and John Fernsell founded the Arcadian Shop in 1974. The store started on Lenox’s Church Street, then moved to a historic 1781 building on Pittsfield Road. In 1982, Lane became the shop’s sole owner (Fernsell launched Ibex) and turned it into “a hub for outdoor gear, community events, and adventure.” Forty years later, he sold the business to seasoned employees Chris Calvert, Keith Dupuis, and Jeff Minkler. The trio have remained steadfast on Arcadian Shop’s mission of a go-to destination for outdoor apparel, camping, snow sports, cycling, and paddle sports.
On the footwear front, there are trail runners by Altra, Hoka, and Salomon; hiker boots from Asolo, Lowa, and The North Face; and casual styles by Birkenstock, OluKai, and Blundstone, among many other leading brands. Then there’s the shop’s top-tier service. “From the beginning, Arcadian Shop has been run by people very passionate for the outdoors, and Jeff, Keith, and myself bring 75 years of experience to the plate,” says Calvert, the shoe buyer. “The connections we’ve made with our customers and community have attributed to our success and longevity. Without them, none of this would be possible.”
The icing on the cake: 500-plus acres of trails starting in the shop’s backyard. “We strive to provide our customers with the best advice possible, even if that means sending them elsewhere to get what they need,” Calvert says. “Our goal is to create relationships, not just sales.”
Who were your top-selling brands in 2024? We’ve always done well with Oboz, and we definitely saw an increase in non-traditional running brands like Hoka and Topo Athletic.
What’s the best new shoe brand that you’ve added to your mix recently? We brought Birkenstock back after seeing it trending strongly with teens and twentysomethings. I’m not sure what I think about wearing them with white athletic socks, though.
What are your top-selling non-footwear items?
We sell a lot of Trek and Pivot bicycles, and a ton of Kuhl, PrAna, and Patagonia clothing. Hurricane and Stellar kayaks and SIC paddle boards are hot.
And socks from Darn Tough and Smartwool!
Who is your core customer?
Keith Dupuis, Chris Calvert, and Jeff Minkler.
Anyone who enjoys the outdoors—from hard-core athletes to everyday dog walkers, we cater to them all.
Who is your fastest-growing customer segment?
One of the larger growths of late is youth cycling. To address that, we contribute and volunteer for local developmental programs, the NEYC youth race series, and even helped sponsor a few riders to race on the national circuit. It’s so important to keep the youth excited about the outdoors!
Anything unique about the Lenox, MA, customer in terms of shoe preferences? Our customers vary in so many ways. Most of them come in for what I call “Northeast everyday wear.” The brands are pretty recognized, the colors are toned down, and of course, they need to look good! We also cater to tree workers and landscapers looking for heavy-duty work/hiking boots, part-time residents from nearby cities who are looking for more urban styling, and even Appalachian Trail thru-hikers replacing their worn-out boots.
How was business in 2024? Overall, it was a great year. There were still some tricky situations with supply chain issues and several outdoor companies deeply discounting their inventories online, but we trusted our instincts, did what we do best, and came out on top.
Since buying the store what did you not want to change and what have you changed? There was nothing that we wanted to change. Arcadian Shop is an iconic store that’s been around for over 50 years. Several of us have been here for over 30 years and have helped shape what it is. The only major change that we made was to shut down a café we had in the building in order to concentrate on everything else in the store. Maybe someday we’ll revitalize it in some way.
What are some of the biggest challenges facing your store? Staffing. Not just with bodies, but highly knowledgeable people. We’re constantly on the lookout and often reach out to enthusiasts like ourselves to see if they have interest.
What was the smartest business decision you made last year? I contemplated moving into a new category but realized that sometimes making more money isn’t worth the extra stress. We’re doing fine with exactly what we know how to do best.
What are some of your most effective community engagement efforts? Hosting the Banff Centre Mountain Film Festival World Tour. It’s two nights of movies that range from adrenaline, documentary, and culture. We also host weekly bike rides yearround and participate in a weekly “Mountain Bike Training Series” in the spring and summer.
What are your top goals for 2025? To maintain a successful business in what may be a troubling economic time ahead, trim down some of the overages in inventory from the bike industry, streamline our POS software/website, continue a manageable growth, and enjoy the outdoors more with friends and family.
What keeps you awake at night? Knowing that my employees count on me keeping the business successful so that they’re able to maintain their livelihood and outdoor lifestyle.
Where do you envision Arcadian Shop in three years? Holding strong to our roots and passions while increasing the success of the business and camaraderie of our customer base.
What are you most proud of regarding the business? The friendships made with customers, between staff members, and with many vendor partners over so many years. Work doesn’t seem too hard when you see friends and family every day.
In the case of Ascent Outdoors, its three names over the course of its 28-year history reflects an evolution into what is a go-to destination for the latest outdoor gear and apparel.
Name number one: Second Bounce, then a secondhand sporting goods store founded by John Bolivar. Most of the shop’s inventory was found through garage sales and thrift stores. In 1996, he sold the business to Greg Shaw, who shifted the store’s focus to outdoor recreation, specifically backpacking, climbing, and mountaineering. Five years later, Second Bounce relocated and rebranded as Second Ascent, a full-service outdoor and bike shop selling new, used, and clearance gear. As its secondhand selection decreased in importance it led to another rebrand, in 2017, to Ascent Outdoors. Two years later, Sandeep Nain, founder of Seattle Miyar Adventures, became owner.
Ascent Outdoors’ team chooses gear based on the extensive knowledge and experiences of its staff, honing in on the needs of its Pacific Northwest community. The footwear selection spans hiking boots from Asolo, Merrell, and Salewa; rock climbing shoes from Butora, La Sportiva, and Scarpa; and trail runners from Brooks, Topo Athletic, and Xero Shoes. Footwear buyer Brennan Halterman assures customers find the right option. “I offer a process that can sometimes be extensive but pinpointed, and go through a series of fine-tuned practices to achieve the best fit possible before they leave the shop,” he explains. “I frequently modify footwear to achieve a better experience when appropriate, whether it’s softening a boot ankle or punching out spaces for bunions and the like.”
What are your top-selling brands/styles? We brought on Lems a few years back when they introduced outdoor-appropriate outsoles in their hiking boots, and it’s been a massive success story for us. Our top-selling styles are the Boulder Summit, Chelsea Waterproof boot, Primal Zen, and Outlander. We also sell lots of Topo Athletic Trailventure 2 WP, Traverse, Ultraventure, and Terraventure 4 WP. Additionally, we pump out
scads of Brooks Cascadia 18 GTX and other styles from that local brand.
What is the best new shoe brand added of late? We’ve added Xero Shoes and Vivobarefoot this past season with good success.
What are your top-selling non-shoe items? We sell lots of Darn Tough socks and their new Wide Open sock brand for all the folks purchasing open-toe box styles. We also do well with Currex and Superfeet insoles.
Who is your core customer? We have a large and loyal customer base that includes hikers, runners, skiers, climbers, and folks looking to fulfill their outdoor dreams. Our store is fortunate to have a very reputable history with mountaineering groups, rock climbers, and backcountry and Nordic skiers, among others.
Anything unique about the Seattle customer’s shoe preferences? We sell lots of earth-tone styles, whether it’s green Topo tail runners, brown Lems boots, or black Xeros and Vivobarefoots.
How was business in 2024? The year before was good, and while it’s been a struggle to exceed those numbers, thankfully footwear has been pretty consistent.
What are some big challenges facing your store? Since moving to our new location in Interbay, one of the biggest challenges is customers finding us. It‘s resulted in lower foot traffic and reduced sales, compounded by the overall tough retail environment this year. To overcome these hurdles, we’re focusing on increasing community engagement by hosting gear nights for local clubs, organizing events, and enhancing our social media presence.
We’re starting to see a gradual increase in traffic and are optimistic about rebuilding momentum.
What was the smartest business decision you made this past year? Opening our new location in a three-level building, which we own. It includes a massive warehouse, two levels of retail, and expanded parking. Our top floor, Second Ascent, is devoted to our original format, focusing on close-outs and used gear. For the footwear department, we’ve made efforts to increase our natural-shaped selection, which has been absolutely going gangbusters.
What are some effective community engagement efforts? We offer a large amount of rental gear that helps get folks outdoors without draining their pocketbooks. We also offer snow safety events and other educational clinics. I’ve also posted pictures of our minimal shoe selection on Reddit and have folks seeking us out. We also provide after-hours events for mountaineer clubs and are known for our customer service when outfitting those folks.
What are your top goals for 2025? To serve our community to help them achieve their outdoor goals and get the word out about how special our company is. Also, figuring out when to bring in exciting new styles and keeping up with the demand for our current selection.
Where do you envision Ascent Outdoors in three years? More growth and local awareness. The Pacific Northwest is a huge, awe-inspiring playground, and we’re blessed to be part of the experience for those who seek to get out in it.
What factors do you attribute your longevity to most? Our top-tier staff! They go hard in their fields and enjoy assisting customers. I’ve learned so much from them.
Where function and form meet, Sangmin Park, cofounder/designer of 4CCCCEES, is carving out a following with bold designs.
By Greg Dutter
COME ACROSS A 4CCCCEES shoe and chances are it’ll stop you in your tracks. Sangmin Park’s flamboyant proportions and striking color combinations of loafers, sandals, trainers, mules, and boots turn the ordinary into the extraordinary. She’s a shapeshifter of a different sort, transforming traditional silhouettes into trendsetting statement pieces. It begs the question: Is 4CCCCEES (an acronym for its design pillars of contemporary, comfort, confidence, and curiosity) a designer, comfort, or lifestyle brand?
“My ultimate ambition with the brand (launched in 2019) is to present products that allow freedom of movement while expressing personal taste and style, encouraging more action, movement, and confidence to the wearer,” explains Park, who previously designed for Alexander McQueen and United Nude. “In this sense, I’d say that we’re both a designer and a lifestyle brand.”
That brand width is attracting strong interest among the comfort specialty channel, which might come as a surprise. Historically, such bold designs would have been deemed too out there for a conservative customer base. But dealers say the striking designs are conversation starters as well as comfortable. Park affirms that her creations are grounded in comfort features and are everyday wearable. In addition, age is not a barrier in her designs. 4CCCCEES is intended for all stripes.
tions about surfaces being soft, springy, or rough? These preconceptions were used to exaggerate tactile characteristics or, in the opposite way, to give an element of surprise.
“The softness and flexibility of the curves, the intensity of the rough and aggressive details, and the joy of unusual proportion play are the key elements in which this new collection revels,” she says. Meanwhile, the palette is neutral and warm, spiced up with bright colors, adding vibrant energy to the classic silhouettes. “Fluffy shearlings and padded sheep leather are widely applied to the range, emphasizing our tactile quality, while polished materials such as supple cow leather and metallics are also featured for a dressier, autumn mood,” Park says.
“Motion has always been central to 4CCCCEES’ design conceptualizations; bodies in movement, flowing naturally with the rhythm of the stride,” Park says. “Merging functional aspects into visual and tactile charm are the unique characteristics and important values of our designs.” Park attributes this uniqueness as a reason for the positive feedback from consumers spanning wearers of other comfort brands to those who have never felt the need to wear such styles. “Either way, the comfort of our shoes is an absolutely important factor,” she says.
When embarking on a new design, Park says that the feeling of walking in a shoe is the first aspect she considers. “I take into consideration that sensation of putting your foot inside and then touching the ground to the density and elasticity of the sole that you feel when you transfer your body weight and so on,” she explains. “Only, I express these considerations and elements visually in a modern and witty way. As the design develops, I find a merging point where function and visual fun meet.”
For the Fall/Winter ’25 collection, Park immersed herself in exploring the relationship between touch and visual expression. She asked questions like: Can we sense texture without touching it? What are our visual preconcep-
So far, so good. 4CCCCEES is well ahead of schedule, and that’s despite introducing a new name and unique design concept in the stingy depths of a pandemic. The initial goal was to break even within three years. Mission accomplished ahead of schedule, and 2024 was a “great” year. “Our business remains very strong, especially in the North American market,” Park reports. “We hit a sales record with growth both online and in stores globally.” The designer is even more bullish about 2025. “We expect global sales to increase about 25 percent this year.”
Looking three years out, Park envisions much deeper U.S. market penetration, a broader following worldwide, and collaborations with multi-disciplinary brands and artists. Above all, 4CCCCEES will keep “pushing the boundaries while keeping a sense of humor in the detail”—along with a dash of commercial sensibility. “I realize not everyone’s favorite color is a fluorescent pink,” Park says. “As our brand evolves, we’ll expand in diverse directions while making sure we’re providing some conservative options as well. But our core 4CCCCEES values will always be reflected in all our designs.”
What made you feel like it was time to strike out on your own? I’d reached a point when starting a brand began to feel so natural and obvious. Based on my experiences at Alexander McQueen and United Nude building up my understanding of product and the industry over 10 years or so, I was confident in the products I wanted to create, even though the idea was still abstract. Fortunately, I had trustworthy and talented people around me to help bring 4CCCCEES to life.
What were some of the initial challenges launching a brand from scratch—like doing so amid a pandemic, perhaps? It may sound strange, but I didn’t have too many worries starting out. I think my pure excitement of launching the brand may have helped to suppress some of those negative emotions for a while. Defining my own identity and finding partners who understand and support my vision was not easy, though. During the first few seasons, I spent a considerable amount of time and effort to clarify the abstract identity into something concrete with compelling products and clear branding. I’m still constantly working to define and strengthen the unique brand that is 4CCCCEES.
How might being a woman in charge, which is still rare in this industry, be an asset to 4CCCCEES? As a designer who makes women’s shoes, it’s a huge advantage clearly understanding the needs of the consumer. I’m one of them. But I’ve always worked with a high proportion of women around me, so I’m fortunate that it’s something I’m used to. Speaking to my company in particular, I also think flexibility, creativity, and rapid decision-making are strengths. We’re a small, young company, which are also assets.
What is your first shoe-related memory? Not sure about the first, but I do remember the first time I wore stilettos. That sensation I felt, the instant confidence and feeling powerful and unstoppable! It’s a whole different kind of feeling than a pair of sneakers gives you. Unfortunately, the pain in the balls of my feet is too unbearable for wearing stilettos daily. I’d have to carry flats in my bag all the time. But this was my inspiration when I was thinking about 4CCCCEES. Namely, the comfort
aspect of our designs. When I tried, for example, the prototype of our Mellow sandal (pictured above, bottom right) at the beginning of the development phase, I found myself hopping around instantly, and I knew I could apply this sort of comfort fit and technology to other styles as well. I think that’s when I started to feel confident that my designs really had a place in the market.
Who are some designers you admire? I admire many designers and artists across different fields, and I’m inspired by artists who work in diverse approaches and materiality. Specifically, Martin Margiela, Issey Miyake, Olafur Eliasson, Ai Weiwei, and Kengo Kuma.
What is the best design advice you’ve ever received? One of the most important lessons I learned from my experiences at Alexander McQueen and United Nude is not to be afraid of playing with new materials and methods, as well as the importance of meeting diverse people and finding that synergy that’s so important to the creative process.
What shoe must every woman have in her closet and why? Lots! I design collections with the wide range of women’s lifestyles in mind. Our collections run the gamut from a dressed-up heel for a night out to a technical sneaker for an afternoon hiking around with friends.
What do you love most about designing shoes? I love the entire process. Designing shoes is such a fun job! From ideation to creating our mock-ups to going through fittings and endless revisions to making samples…I love it all. Oh, and of course, the moment of seeing someone walking by wearing my shoes is incredibly exciting! I love that.
Why go over-the-knee when ankle booties deliver as much of a style kick?
One Piece at a Time .
FW25 | COLLECTION PREVIEW
The first 3D foot scanning experience designed just for children. Kids shoe shopping is finally fun!
< Meet Tootsie! Contact Us: bookademo@aetrex.com