DECEMBER 2024
10 Playmaker
Josh Habre, CEO of ERHCo— distributors of Django & Juliette and Ziera and operators of Shoe Mill—is leading the family business to new and expanded heights.
By Greg Dutter
16 The ’Zoo Keeper V&A Bootery’s Bill Van Dis of Kalamazoo, MI, leaves behind a rich independent retailer legacy.
By Greg Dutter
22 Ballet Class
Designers are on point with dance-inspired details.
By Kathleen O’Reilly
FEATURES DEPARTMENTS
4 Editor’s Note
6 This Just In: New York
8 Scene & Heard
15 Trend Spotting: Leopard Prints
19 Trend Spotting: Men’s Loafers
20 A Note to My Younger Self
21 Trend Spotting: White Boots
36 What’s Selling: Boutiques
38 Shoe Salon
40 Last Shot
On the cover: ballet-inspired trail runners by Ecco
Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; models: Fiona Auguet/Q Mgmt., Olivia Schofield/ Fenton Models.; hair and makeup: Andrea Wilson/Next Artists; photo assistant: Raymond Collette; photo and styling assistant: Nellyfer Espinoza
EDITORIAL
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors
Kathleen O’Reilly Fashion Editor
Rosemary O’Connell Art Director
Kathy Passero Editor at Large
Mariah Walker Style Director
Ann Loynd Burton Unlaced Editor
Kiernan McCormick Contributing Editor
Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers
ADVERTISING Noelle Heffernan Publisher
Lizette Chin SVP/Group Publisher
Laurie Guptill Production Manager
Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director
Catherine Rosario Office Manager
Mike Hoff Digital Director
WAINSCOT MEDIA
Carroll Dowden Chairman
Mark Dowden President & CEO
Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO
OFFICES
ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL
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Ads: Noelle.Heffernan@ Wainscotmedia.com
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CIRCULATION One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244
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Nicky Hilton x French Sole leather ballet flats with embroidered bow detail.
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Chew on This
AN UNEXPECTED THEME arose in the making of our latest issue: third generationrun, primarily retail businesses. There’s our Q&A (p. 10) with Josh Habre, CEO of ERHCo, an Oregon-based company encompassing 14 comfort specialty stores under the Shoe Mill, Burch’s, and Footwise banners, combined with a burgeoning wholesale division featuring Django & Juliette and Ziera comfort brands. Next is our in memoriam feature (p. 16) on Bill Van Dis, long-time owner of V&A Bootery in Kalamazoo, MI, who passed away unexpectedly in late October and left a legacy of independent retailing excellence and deep community ties. Last but not least, there’s the latest participant in our A Note to My Younger Self series (p. 20): Mark Denkler, president of the NSRA and former owner of Vince Canning Shoes and Tootsies in Florida.
What’s noteworthy about our theme? Everyone profiled defied the third-generation, family-owned business curse. (The first generation launches it, the second generation grows it, and the third generation kills it.) Studies across a variety of industries estimate that only 12 percent of businesses successfully transition to the third generation, which marks a steep drop from the 30 percent that manages to pass the torch from the first and second generation. There are many reasons for this. There’s the argument that when you make a copy of a copy, it’s just not as sharp. There’s also a case to be made that a lot third geners never learn the value of hard work. (They didn’t have to, thanks to the hard work of previous generations.) Thus, many aren’t prepared to take over when the time comes. They lack the skills and drive. When it comes to retail, your heart has to be in it to survive. As everyone reading this page knows, retail is an eight-days-a-week grind in a viper pit of competition and endless challenges, both expected and unexpected. Even if you have the skills, if you’re not passionate about your work, you’re not going to last long.
worked his way up from the sales floor through just about every position possible. He’s got “mad” retail skills, as the kids would say. His decision to branch into wholesale promises to further diversify and grow the company. Ever the retailer, he knows that standing pat is a risky gameplan. But he isn’t just trying grow his family’s business. He believes his company’s acquisitions, new stores, and wholesale division will help the independent retail channel grow overall. Habre is dreaming real big, and it’s an inspiring read.
Equally inspiring, albeit profoundly sad, is the third-generation retail success story of Van Dis. He, his family, and the 101-year-old V&A Bootery, now in its fourth generation under the leadership of Dan Van Dis, are greater Kalamazoo institutions. The outpouring of condolences from industry colleagues extolling Van Dis’s retailing skill and community engagement is moving. His impact went far beyond selling lots of shoes. The sidebar (p. 17), written by Editor at Large Kathy Passero, is a beautiful tribute to the store, which played a significant role in her Kalamazoo childhood. You can practically hear the crinkling of the tissue paper in those shoe boxes. The only drawback to an article like this is that the person we’d most like to read it can’t.
Habre, Van Dis, and Denkler all defied the odds with a winning combination of skills and passion.
Habre and his three brothers are in the process of turning the third-generation curse on its head. In fact, they’re well on their way to surpassing previous generations’ success in growing and transforming the family business. It’s a team effort with Habre, the eldest, serving as captain. He’s been in the retail game nearly his whole life, having
Denkler’s third-generation retail run, from 1994 to 2020, also transformed the family business for the better, starting with embracing the computer age. While Mark’s uncle claimed he could “look at the wall and tell you what’s missing,” Denkler has always embraced technology. He could have entered the family business right out of college as GM at an attractive salary, but Denkler chose a harder path by working (for far less initially) in the corporate banking world. He gained invaluable financial skills and developed self-confidence by earning the trust of industry titans. When he returned to his deep shoe retailing roots, he arrived extremely well prepared. Fellow NSRA members saw his retail, financial, and leadership skills as ideal qualifications to lead the organization, which he has done dutifully since 2021. NSRA is dedicated to facilitating the successful transition of family-owned businesses from one generation to the next. Having a third-generation success story at the helm is like thumbing one’s nose at that old curse.
This issue marks our 34th year. It’s been 12 months of great division, discontent, and distraction—and I’m not just talking about our industry. While the election is finally behind us, the road ahead looks anything but smooth. Buckle up. We’ll do our best to provide traffic updates in 2025.
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
NSRA President Mark Denkler’s granddaughter has excellent taste in reading material.
COLLEGE can happen
Two Ten Footwear Foundation is a nonprofit dedicated to lifting lives in the footwear community. We’ve helped make college dreams more affordable for thousands of footwear employees and their families. If you currently work in footwear and have been in the industry for at least two years, you—and your dependents—may be eligible to apply for a Two Ten higher education scholarship that can be used for full- or part-time study in an associate or bachelor’s degree program or post-secondary vocational/technical training program at an accredited institution.
…Made for Walking
Boot season arrives in the Big Apple. Photography by Marcy Swingle
Ladies’ Might
Two Ten WIFI grant to fund women’s-only sneaker design course.
TWO TEN’S WOMEN in the Footwear Industry (WIFI) community has been helping the gender connect, share information, educate, train, and elevate themselves for more than a decade. The organization’s WIFI Grant program takes it a step further by backing up its mission with funds. The latest recipient is Jeneene Bailey-Allen, who will lead a women’s-only sneaker design course at SOLEcial Studies CommUNITY Academy in Brooklyn, NY.
Shanee Helfer, director of Grant Programs for Two Ten, says the decision to award Bailey-Allen and partner with SOLEcial Studies Academy were no brainers. “In a word, empowerment. Jeneene wants to help women find the confidence they need to pursue roles in the industry that tend to be male-dominated,” she says. “We know it can be challenging for any woman—and particularly challenging for a woman of color—to break into design, and that’s especially true in the streetwear and sneaker space, an area where women are not well represented at all.”
Bailey-Allen, a sneaker/streetwear designer by trade, relishes the opportunity the WIFI grant provides. “The grant is an acknowledgment of my commitment to creating impactful experiences and fostering growth opportunities for women in our community,” she says. “It’s a testament to the work I’ve done and continue to build on, fueling my commitment to making a lasting impact.” The grant also enables her to further her role as a leader in this space. “The support from Two Ten allows me to expand my reach, leveraging my experience in project coordination and brand-building to create an enriching, supportive learning environment to participants without financial barriers,” she says. “My goal is to empower women with hands-on, practical skills they can apply immediately while also giving them the confidence to pursue their passions within the streetwear and footwear industries.”
Taos Tidings
The comfort brand announces a round of promotions.
Sean Williams, cofounder of the SOLEcial Studies CommUNITY Academy, says Bailey-Allen, an alum, is the ideal sneaker scholar to lead this course. “Jeneene has invested in making sure more women have the experience that she had, and can feel more educated and empowered to enter the footwear industry,” he says. “We highly value her commitment to doing that, which is why she’s the perfect choice for lead educator of this program.” Williams adds that the academy has some amazing female alumni. “There are some very talented women doing great things as professionals in the industry that I’m very proud to have taught personally or in tandem with Dee Wells, our cofounder.”
Bailey-Allen gives props to the academy as a place to learn and break into the industry. She cites the community-driven, inclusive approach that aligns perfectly with the goals of the design workshops. “Sean’s work emphasizes the value of cultural expression, identity, and creativity—elements that align closely with our mission to empower women to find their voices and express themselves through design,” she says, adding, “SOLEcial Studies has a strong reputation for combining hands-on learning with personal empowerment. Partnering with them allows us to blend expert knowledge with a safe, collaborative space for women to explore their talents.”
Helfer says to expect more WIFI grants and success stories. Just in the past year, the program has helped cover the cost of upskilling and professional development opportunities for more than 100 women. This year’s goal is more than 150 women. “Our long-term goals are to offer more career coaching and one-on-one mentorship to grant recipients, as well as to support a way for small groups of women to do special types of training together as a team,” she says.
WIFI grant applications are currently open. For more information, log onto: twoten.org/our-programs/upskilling-grants/.
GLEN BARAD, CEO and founder of Taos Footwear, has announced a round of “long overdue” promotions for the 19-year-old company. COO Bill Langrell, who has been with Taos since day one, adds president to his title. National Sales Manager and 18-year company veteran Sylvia Jensen is now Vice President of Domestic Sales. Mike Walker, who joined from The Walking Company nearly three years ago, adds Vice President to his current title of Director of Marketing and Ecommerce. Oscar Campos, currently Director of Finance, is now CFO.
“They’re some of the most dedicated, hardworking, passionate, and personable people in the industry,” Barad says. “The reason for our success is because of them.”
Barad says Langrell and Jensen’s loyalty and dedication deserve recognition, especially. “They worked straight through the pandemic and helped
The Tradehome Shoes team circa September 2024.
get our company back to normalcy,” he says. “Now it’s a good time to focus on all of them as individuals, and not on all of the challenges the industry has been going through.”
The promotions represent a change in Taos philosophy.
“We’ve never really been about titles,” Barad says. “But these teammates have formed this company, and it’s time for the industry to know what the power of their efforts has earned them. They should feel good about the new titles, and they should be proud of themselves as I am.”
It’s business as usual at Taos. The leadership team continues to meet regularly. But Barad can now devote more time working in his wheelhouse of product, merchandising, buying, and sourcing. He’s spent more than 40 years honing his skills in those areas. No product detail is too small, and the fit must be perfect. Barad is a student of shoes, which lies at the forefront of Taos being a category leader.
On that note, it’s another strong year in the books for the company, and the outlook for 2025 is for “continued growth.” The well-oiled team, though, isn’t resting on its laurels. “We’re working on analyzing and planning better,” Barad says. “Also, we’ll be allocating more resources to marketing. With these key pillars, we don’t see anything but positives for Taos going forward.”
Sneaker design gurus: Sean Williams and Jeneene Bailey-Allen.
Glen Barad
January 22-24, 2025
San Diego
Q&A
BY GREG DUTTER
PLAYMAKER
Josh Habre, CEO of ERHCo—distributors of Django & Juliette and Ziera, and operators of Shoe Mill—is leading the third-generation family business to new and expanded heights.
bACK IN SOPHOMORE year of high school, Josh Habre was pursuing his hoop dreams. There were a few caveats, however. He couldn’t jump, dribble, or shoot very well. Habre saw the handwriting on the court. Then came a job opportunity to do deliveries for his family’s four Shoe Mill stores in the Portland, OR, area. Habre essentially went retail pro, skipping college and, over the past 25-plus years, climbed the ranks by taking on nearly every job the company offered and earning every promotion along the way—working the floor, then serving as assistant store manager, manager, head buyer, general manager of all stores (14 in total), and, in 2019, president of the company and now CEO.
Habre’s latest role involves overseeing ERHCo’s burgeoning wholesale division, which features the Australian-based comfort brands Ziera and Django & Juliette. Habre and his brothers—Jared (president of the retail division), Joel (vice president of finance and wholesale), and Jordan (vice president of digital)—are a dream team, working seamlessly and aggressively to build upon the family’s deep industry legacy.
“My brothers and I get along great. We’d make for a terrible reality TV show,” Habre says. “When we’re facing a task, we simply ask: Does this feel heavy or light to you? Even if it’s not in one of our purviews, if it feels light, then one of us will take that task on.”
Habre, the eldest, serves as team captain. In fact, after being named president, he got the family together for a meeting because he realized that the then six-store company wasn’t big enough to support everybody in the family. He created a two-pronged growth plan to remedy the problem: First, grow the retail footprint through acquisitions and opening new stores; second, launch a wholesale division. Part one started with the February 2020 acquisition of the 100-year-old Burch’s Shoes, a two-store chain in Eugene, OR, that had no legacy plan. It was followed up with the acquisition of the four-store Footwise chain in February 2022, which has since opened a fifth Oregon location. Part
Want to accelerate your career? Join Two Ten’s Women in the Footwear Industry (WIFI) community at a networking cocktail hour, catch a WIFI panel discussion online, or apply for a WIFI Grant to cover the cost of a professional development opportunity.
Learn more at twoten.org/wifi
two started with Ziera in late 2021 and, last year, Django & Juliette.
To date, the full court press strategy is delivering success, despite much of it being implemented in the throes of a pandemic. It hasn’t been easy learning on the fly and in the face of unprecedented disruption. But those moves—made when a lot of other companies had called timeout—created new revenue streams. The Burch’s acquisition proved particularly fortuitous because the county where the stores are located reopened much earlier than other Shoe Mill locations and provided desperately needed revenue.
Habre isn’t one to sit still or play out the clock. “I always like having options, and these moves give us diversification, for starters,” he says. “It also makes room in our family business for all of my siblings.”
He is wary of the third-generation curse associated with family-owned businesses. (Data shows that many fail when the grandkids take over.) “We didn’t want to become another statistic, and I want new challenges,” he says, adding that the wholesale opportunity is too good to pass up. “It gives us a vertically integrated supply chain and access to product at very good margins.” Then there’s Habre’s bigger picture. “I see wholesale as an opportunity to help fellow independent retailers first and then retailers in general by offering unique brands. So we’ve diversified our family business, we’re filling a void in the market, and we’re helping fellow retailers. It’s a win-win-win.”
He says the wholesale division is off to a “fantastic” start. “We keep doubling sales.” He chalks up the success to unique styling, legitimate comfort features, margin propositions initially in the 60s, and ERHCo being a seamless business partner. “Before we got into wholesale, we listed all the pain points that vendors create for us and asked ourselves, ‘How do we not do any of that?’” Habre says. For example, there are no pushy reps and there’s no competing on price. Both go against ERHCo’s core company values of being kind, positive, helpful, responsible, motivated and focusing on integrity and teamwork. “Our operating premise is to just do the right thing,” he says. “Be accessible and easy to work with across all aspects of this business.” In other words, treat retail accounts the same way the company treats its store customers. “If they’ve got a problem, let’s figure out a solution. From little things to big, we do all we can to make retailers fans of our brands,” Habre says.
It helps to have “great” partners in Munro Footwear Group. Since day one, the company has served as an excellent wholesale tutor. Having similar DNA (both companies are family run and started out in retail) is also an asset. “I couldn’t imagine better people to do business with,” Habre says. “They’re
Q&A
friends, mentors, and the best business partners. We’re blessed.”
ERHCo’s retail division is humming along, too. Doubling the store count in five years represents a calculated expansion strategy that doesn’t overlap Shoe Mill’s existing format or locations. For example, the company decided to keep the Burch’s and Footwise names because, “They’re well known in their communities, and we didn’t want to disrupt the marketplaces,” Habre says, noting that Burch’s is a big store concept while Footwise stores have a smaller format, are in smaller towns,
and offer a merchandise mix focused on the Pacific Northwest. Think Keen, Oboz, Taos, Bogs, Hoka, and Ugg, among others. By contrast, Shoe Mill is focused on higher-end Euro comfort brands. “Our tag line is: ‘We put the world at your feet,’ and that reflects our international mix,” he says. Key brands include Birkenstock, Rieker, On, and Pikolinos, among others.
The retail division’s comp store sales are up seven percent over last year. Habre credits this gain to the department heads, who are now empowered to run the show. “Buying has enough of the right shoes at
OFF THE CUFF
What are you reading? The Big Burn: Teddy Roosevelt and the Fire that Saved America by Timothy Egan. It’s about a huge western fire in the early 1900s that sparked the conservation movement. I’m fascinated by Teddy Roosevelt.
What was the last movie or series you watched? I don’t watch a lot of TV other than sports. Football and basketball are where it’s at. The University of Oregon is No. 1 right now. We have three stores in Eugene, where the school is based, and the energy in town is terrific.
What is inspiring you right now? Not much. It’s not that I have a negative outlook, but I don’t feel I need to be looking for inspiration right now.
Where is your moment of Zen? In the gym. I tune everything out there.
Who was your first concert and best concert? First was Garth Brooks. I was in high school and saved every penny to purchase those tickets. Best concert? I saw Iron Maiden a couple of weeks ago, and I don’t know if it was the best, but it sure was fun
That’s quite the “band” width in genres. I love country, southern rock, California reggae, heavy metal, gangsta rap. I’m a kid of the ’90s. It was a melting pot of music.
Who has had the greatest influence on you? My dad, and I probably don’t tell him that enough. It goes beyond my career. His influence is in everyday life.
What keeps you awake at night?
Nothing. I sleep great.
What are you most hopeful for?
That the upside of social media and our connectivity in general is that people will have more access to the truth and be able to make better decisions.
A pessimist would say that social media fuels conspiracy theories, fake news, etc. True. But there may be an official narrative, and then the bootson-the-ground reporting on social media shows something completely different. The hope is that people aren’t as reliant on drinking the Kool-Aid of particular news outlets.
What’s the best business advice
you’ve ever received? You reap what you sow. The amount of effort you put into your work and the type of person you are will always come back to you. It may not happen soon, but you can’t outrun what you’ve done. So, make the wisest decisions you can in the moment.
What is your favorite hometown memory? The feeling around Portland, in 1992, when the Trailblazers were competing against the Chicago Bulls in the NBA Finals. The camaraderie in the city was just super-fun.
What is your motto? “What’s it going to matter in 30 years?” It came from my soon-to-be wife, Lisa. We had dated on and off and hadn’t spoken for a while. She invited me to her sister’s cabin for Labor Day weekend. I said I had plans and had to work that Monday, and that was her response. It was a turning point in our relationship, and we’ve been together now almost 11 years. Since then, I try to make every major decision through that lens. Why agonize over something that won’t matter in 30 years? Go with the flow. It’s made me much more Zen. I don’t get stuck as easily as I once did.
the right time, marketing is driving customers into the stores, and the sales team lives our mission of ‘creating authentic memorable experiences through personalized fit and service,’” he says.
Indeed, team ERHCo is on a roll. The brothers are spreading out the scoring opportunities like the Chicago Bulls’ once-vaunted triangle offense. While Habre may not have fulfilled his hoop dreams, he’s winning at the fast-paced and fiercely competitive game of shoe retail and wholesale. His innate talents and honed skills, along with rare leadership qualities, are leading the company to the top of the shoe game. There’s no I in this team. “There’s not a lot of ego in the room,” Habre says. “We have a system for making decisions, and it’s working. We’re all in this together.”
Why are Django & Juliette and Ziera, relatively new brands in a very crowded field, working well?
First off, we offer uniqueness and genuine comfort. Retailers are finding room for us as opposed to stocking brands that might look like more of the same. I’m a buyer above all else, and when I walk shows it’s often a case of I’ve already seen that, that, and that. Like a lot of my fellow retailers, I’m looking for uniqueness and freshness, because that’s what sells. Take 4CCCCEES and Oncept, for example. They’re unique. They’re like art on your feet. They attract attention. The three things I look for when buying are: comfortable, unique, and practical. That’s Django & Juliette and Ziera. In fact, our shoes are selling without the dopamine hit of special sales offers or in-store events. While I wish we could do more to romance our brands, they’re selling because customers either pick it up on their own or salespeople are raving about them.
How much is your retail experience an advantage in managing these brands?
It’s a double-edged sword, because I don’t have a ton of wholesale experience. So, for example, sometimes I’m too conservative in backing inventory in some areas because, as a retailer, I’m all about the turn. We’ve missed out on some sales as a result. There are also retailers who just don’t want to do business with another retailer, which is fine.
Unless competing directly, wouldn’t a retailer rather do business with someone who speaks their language?
I’d think so. To that end, we have a single door account located in the same shopping center as one of our stores, and we deliver reorders every week. We offer next-day shipments with no freight costs, and he loves it. We also stick to our MAP policy. Basically, we don’t do things that some other vendors do. Like, for example, we let them buy what they want and don’t push styles on them.
Q&A
Does that retailer have access to the same selection as your stores?
Yes, and closeouts too. He also has exclusives that he can price however he wants. I truly want independent retailers to be successful. If this channel dies, this business is going to be so boring. I guess, per your earlier question of what keeps me awake at night, it’s how do we get new shoe stores to open? Right now, it costs a bare minimum of $500,000 to open a new store. There’s the lease and about $100,000 for a buildout and $300,000 in inventory that you’d love to get a three-time turn on, but that’s very unlikely. Even a two-time turn requires hitting it just right. That store likely won’t hit $1 million in sales for several years. So how do we help grow independent retail? Offering brands to retailers who are already in business that enables them to make enough profit to open additional locations is one way. Django & Juliette and Ziera do that.
Won’t more retailers mean more competition for your stores?
There’s plenty of room across the country. Independent shoe stores provide an essential and much needed service in the communities they serve. Consumers can find fixes for their foot problems, as well as discover new and exciting brands and styles The buzz in the industry of late is that many independents are losing a few big athletic brands as they take different distribution paths. Our industry needs to remember that these brands launched in independent comfort stores. In one case, run specialty wanted nothing to do with the brand at first. Pretty much every up-and-coming big brand is launched in this channel. We bring new and innovative products and brands to the market. We’re also provide jobs, and being locally owned businesses is a strong selling point to consumers. So, yes, I want and believe there should be more stores like ours across the country. If we didn’t acquire Footwise, those stores would’ve likely dis-
appeared from those communities. People would have lost jobs. I believe we have an obligation to keep this channel alive.
What else are your offering to entice retailers to carry your brands?
A lot of sales data from Australia, which is a season ahead, our stores, and other retailers. We can say with confidence what styles work. And we’re more than happy to share that data. We’re a very transparent company, because I believe that builds trust.
Anything else?
Our shoes really fit. Retailers love these brands for that reason alone. When trying a new brand, fit is critical. If they don’t fit well, the chance of getting a customer to buy that brand again is nearly non-existent, not to mention the retailer often gets blamed just as much. Credit goes to Munro’s two lead engineers, who were trained in the UK at Clarks. They understand lasts and where straps, buttons, and elastics need to hit. They know if they need to adjust the forefoot by a couple of millimeters. They are experts in making sure all our styles fit properly. In addition, founder Carrie Munro personally tests the fit of every new shoe and will not allow it into production until it meets her rigorous standards. That’s the beauty of people who’ve spent a career on the floor never forgetting what retailers face. Also, our retail infrastructure allows us to offer higher margins than standard. Plus, we push our SRPs up a bit because we believe these brands warrant a higher price, which means better gross margin dollars, as well. Our brands make a meaningful difference when you ring the register. They are day-makers that turn. As a retailer, you want margins and turn.
How much is your wholesale success attributable to what other brands are doing wrong?
It’s definitely a factor. Some companies have been messing up of late. It’s not the product so much as it’s how they’re managing the business. Retailers
Upstyle from Down Under: Ziera and Django & Juliette.
are choosing not to do business with them. It goes back to our wholesale philosophy of trying to do right by retailers, which is essentially not treating them like crap. Brands like Rieker, Ara, and Josef Seibel have all been making hay of late in response to other brands’ recent management decisions.
Nike has run into similar issues of late.
The difference, though, is they’re a household name. If they flex their muscles, I think they’ll can get back on track. Their biggest issue was that they’d stopped innovating and relied too much on retro styles. They need to get back to innovating. The two brands growing most of late, Hoka and On, are technology-driven companies that look and feel different. The other lesson is don’t ever pull from retail. Nike is a fantastic case study of the perils of focusing too much on DTC.
What are your top goals for 2025?
We’re doubling down on our growth plans for retail and wholesale. If there’s a retail acquisition that makes sense, then we’ll capitalize on that. If there are new store locations to open, we’ll capitalize on that as well. Same goes for wholesale. If there’s something that we could do justice with, we will. We’re also going to deepen our partnerships with vendors who really matter to us. We kept a scorecard coming out of the pandemic, and we’ve quietly reduced our business with those who were hard to do business with and doubling down on the ones that have been great partners. Covid forced us to become better businesspeople and less emotion-driven.
What is your biggest challenge?
Finding good employees who want to work retail. It’s very tricky. People who might want to work in retail are also content doing gig work. So, we have to communicate our work schedule flexibility and not having to sit at a desk all day, like Uber offers. We also have to show, as a growing company, that there are opportunities for advancement with us. They can climb the company ladder just like I did.
What do you love most about your job?
I love that my brothers and I can do this for a living. If we’d just kept the business basically the same, we’d always have this thought in the back of our minds of taking the easy route. Instead, we’ve taken the hard path and are putting our own stamp on our family business, and I love that’s it’s working so far. My brothers and I are growing as businesspeople, as are our employees. I also love being part of an industry with a network of amazing people who, in many cases, are rooting for each other to succeed. I’ve received a lot of advice from our partners and the within the industry. This isn’t just a Josh/ERHCo show. People who I’ve made relationships with over the last 30 years have been very generous with their insights. It’s a great industry. Some of my best friends are Shoe Dogs.
I bet your grandparents would be very proud. They just wanted one store. They were impressed how my dad and my aunt grew the business to four stores. Now we’re at 14 and counting, and we have a wholesale division. I think they’d be very proud. As the third generation, which often implodes, we’re doing our very best to avoid that. We’re trying to blow it up by becoming much bigger. •
Destination Dallas
Five shows combine to create the largest head-to-toe fashion marketplace in the U.S.
IT’S BEING DUBBED the first-ever Dallas Fashion Week (Jan. 21-27), which consists of five apparel and accessories shows running in succession to create an efficient, affordable, and effective way to shop head-to-toe fashions in one location: the Dallas Market Center. There’s Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market and KidsWorld (Jan. 21-24), WESA (Western) and AETA (English) shows (Jan. 22-25), and Dallas Men’s Show (Jan. 25-27).
“Dallas Market Center is the largest head-to-toe fashion marketplace in the U.S. and offers the most complete and comprehensive range of apparel, accessories, and footwear plus aligned categories like gifting,” says Jill Cunningham, senior vice president of leasing, apparel, and accessories for Dallas Market Center. “Offering an unmatched mix of merchandise helps retailers create a lifestyle experience that will attract new customers and keep their inventories fresh.” She adds, “Buyers can choose their own journey and mix up their merchandise with a selection of product and styles for women, men, and kids’ as well as Western and English.”
The one-stop shopping, Cunningham says, is a key point of differentiation from other trade events. In addition, no other show offers the breadth and depth of Western fashions. “Dallas is the largest Western marketplace in the world, which we’ve expanded with new Western and English permanent showrooms on the 10th floor,” she says, noting that exhibitors include Tecovas and Ariat. “This new neighborhood of Western and English is a compliment to the existing full floor of Western showrooms on the 14th floor.”
Then there’s Dallas as a draw. The mecca of Western fashion was recently voted in a Gallup poll as the “safest big city.” It also has two international airports within 25 minutes of the center and is renowned as a vibrant hub of food, arts, and architecture. Plus, there’s the show’s earlier timing. “January is the ideal time for buyers to get an early start on the latest footwear styles for the upcoming season,” Cunningham says. “Exhibitors will benefit from the influx of buyers eager to write orders for the newest styles to start the year strong.”
Cunningham expects a “huge” attendance. “Retailers are very excited about five markets happening in succession, and exhibitors are thrilled at the unique opportunity to connect with a new buyer base,” she says. “Dallas has had tremendous momentum in recent years, and our goal is to bring that energy into 2025 for this special, never-done-before Dallas Fashion Week that will welcome attendees from coast to coast.”
Dallas Fashion Week will be a destination for shopping Western style.
Ziera features a roomier fit without sacrificing style.
THE ’ZOO KEEPER
Bill Van Dis, long-time owner of V&A Bootery of Kalamazoo, MI, leaves behind a rich independent retailer legacy.
By Greg Dutter
Business lore states that in familyowned companies the first generation launches it, the second generation grows it, and the third generation often runs it into the ground. Not so for Bill Van Dis, the third-generation owner of the 101-year-old V&A Bootery, who passed away unexpectedly in late October. Van Dis joined the operation in 1973 and kept V&A Bootery a vibrant downtown Kalamazoo destination over many years. He also helped the company evolve: V&A acquired Okun Brothers Shoes (also downtown) in 2017 and opened a V&A Bootery in the nearby suburb of Portage. That store is now housed in a 5,000-square-foot space with an adjacent 2,000-square-foot Mitten Running Company, which opened last year. The stores have separate entrances, but a walk-through connects them to make it easy for customers to shop both selections.
That was Van Dis in a nutshell: always adapting, evolving, and maintaining the highest standards for customers. He focused on having the right products and the right employees, two retailing tenets he learned from his grandfather and father. In fact, Van Dis was renowned for focusing more on meeting customer needs than on sales, believing the former takes care of the latter.
“Customer service has always been a hallmark of our stores,” says Dan Van Dis, now the fourth-generation owner. “My dad took pride in delivering great customer service, especially to those who had a difficult time finding the right shoes or suffered from foot issues.” His expertise spread across all relevant areas required to be a successful shoe retailer. “Dad was extremely hardworking and detail oriented. He was a sharp businessman with a great eye for product. He had a naturally friendly and outgoing demeanor. He had an innate curiosity about people and where they were coming from, and he loved to engage in
that.” Last but not least, “No job was too big or too small for him. He often said he was the CEO, CFO, head plumber, head of IT, or whatever issue arose for the business.”
Van Dis was determined to do whatever it took to keep the business thriving. Matt Thibeau, channel director for Ecco, says Van Dis was tenacious. The two first came in contact in 1988—Thibeau’s first-ever wholesale appointment with V&A Bootery’s longtime buyer, Jeff Gibson. “Bill was a protector of his livelihood and the independent channel in general,” Thibeau says, noting that no product meeting was finished until Van Dis asked specifically what your brand was doing to improve its performance in his stores. “He also always came prepared with ideas for how your brand could improve operations. He always had the independent retailer at the forefront of his concern.” Thibeau adds that another notable strength of the company was Van Dis’s ability to retain talent. “Jeff has worked there for over 30 years, and many of the salespeople have been on the selling floor for 20-plus years,” he says. “Bill took care of them and created an atmosphere for them to excel.”
Van Dis’s jack of all retail trade skills made him a go-to source for many fellow independents seeking advice. Jill Snyder, owner of Snyder’s Shoes—a third generation–owned, two-store business based along the north shore of Lake Michigan—tapped him regularly over the past 18 years. “He was more than just a valued mentor; I told people he was my Shoe Dad,” she says. “I can reflect on so many phone calls that I made over the years, and he always took the time to pick up. I could run anything by him, and it wasn’t just me he did that for; there were many of us.” It was about more than just shoes, Snyder adds. Van Dis truly cared about the industry and everyone in it. “He served faithfully for many years on the NSRA board,” she says. “He had a ‘we’re all in this together’ mentality, believing that we’d all be better off for it. It was like family.”
Award-winning Shoe Dog: Bill Van Dis
Van Dis cites his father’s golden rules of retailing as keys to V&A Bootery’s longevity. They include honesty, customer service, and knowing your numbers. “Dad loved turn and margin, and trying to marry those two,” he says. “He taught me how to ‘not make a good shoe bad.’ Meaning, it’s easy and fun to keep reordering shoes when they’re turning but going back to the well too frequently or too late in a season can turn a great-performing shoe into an average one.” His dad aimed for a clean inventory at the end of every season. “He wasn’t afraid to mark down the shoes that weren’t turning,” Van Dis says. “He also loved to invest in the business, whether through store remodels, fun advertising campaigns, or in the employees who made our stores great.”
Van Dis’s advice often extended beyond the nuts and bolts of retailing. Adam Beck, CEO of Beck’s Shoes, a fifth-generation-owned chain of 27 stores in the western U.S., credits the man with helping him become less brash. They first met in 2012 at an NSRA NextGen conference and later served together on the organization’s board of directors for about five years. Beck, a high energy person with a lots of ideas, wasn’t always patient. “Bill taught me to bring a little more poise and calm into my professional life,” he says. “He taught me that perseverance, professionalism, and, most importantly, bringing your most genuine self into every situation will prevail.”
‘You Follow Me?’
That was Van Dis’s classic catchphrase. “Anyone who knew Bill would chuckle at hearing that,” says Snyder. Thibeau says the phrase was Van Dis’s way of confirming that you had heard and understood him. “Many retailers have mannerisms that become trademarks, and that was Bill’s,” he says.
Another Van Dis catchphrase: “What’s your best seller?” Whatever the booth and wherever the show, it was Van Dis’s opening question. Mark Denkler, president of the NSRA, and Snyder both recall a buying trip to Expo Riva Schuh in Italy where Van Dis hammered away with that opener. “We’d laugh because that might work with your local rep, but when importing you really need to have an eye for the right product for your store,” Denkler says. “Bill surely did. He was very successful with his curated collection of first cost shoes.” Snyder initially thought the brands would recommend best sellers for other countries that would not apply to Michigan tastes. “Bill politely disagreed and told me I was making it too complicated. As usual, he was right,” she says. Van Dis had a sixth sense when it came to picking winners. He didn’t just
An Ode to V&A Bootery
A childhood customer recalls the joys of shopping the store
GROWING UP IN KALAMAZOO in the late 1970s and early 1980s, V&A Bootery played an essential role in my annual back-to-school routine. In those days, the store was on the Kalamazoo Mall (the first outdoor pedestrian mall in the U.S., if you like historical tidbits). My mother and I always made our seasonal pilgrimage to V&A for new school shoes on a Saturday. In my memory the shelves are filled with Bass Weejuns, Sebago penny loafers, and velvety suede chukka Hush Puppies in shades of burgundy, chocolate, crimson, and copper—the same rich, warm colors as the leaves on the sugar maples, birches, and beech trees that filled my childhood neighborhood come fall.
In an era long before the internet, the cache at V&A held every musthave style for preteens and teens. I used to cross my fingers that my classmates wouldn’t snap up all the styles I wanted, in the colors I liked best, before I got there.
I remember the store’s layout perfectly. The smell of leather. The sound rustling tissue paper made in the boxes—the sound of anticipation. The sight of busy salespeople emerging from the backroom with towering stacks of boxes so tall they had to crane their heads sideways to see where they were going. The claret-colored Etienne Aigner wallets as lustrous as horse chestnuts in a glass class under the cash register, next to a metal stand that held smooth leather shoulder bags with adjustable buckle straps. And the thrill I felt when my mom splashed out for a pair of slouchy, knee-high leather Stone Mountain boots the color of old bones (and a matching Stone Mountain purse!) when I started high school.
We shopped at V&A Bootery in other seasons (patent leather Mary Janes for Easter were a must in my family), but our traditional fall visits are the ones that come rushing back in a flurry of memories whenever I hear the store’s name. Halcyon memories as glowing and vivid as the ones of football games, homecoming floats, bonfire parties, and other glorious autumnal rites of passage that were part of a Midwestern coming of age in that time and place. —Kathy Passero
rely on recommendations. “Bill was raised in this business and very connected to his customers and understood their needs,” says David Ben Zikry, CEO of Spring Footwear Corp. “He always had the ability to select great product.” In his honor, the company is naming a shoe after Van Dis in its Fall/Winter ’25 collection. “We enjoyed working with Bill for more than 30 years,” Ben Zikry says. “He always appreciated our designs and quality. We feel like we lost a family member, but he’ll always remain part of our lives.”
Steve Mahoney, senior vice president of sales for Samuel Hubbard, worked with Van Dis for 20 years. He, too, praises Van Dis’s astute product eye, which was made even sharper by his willingness to look beyond his sightlines. “Bill was often curious about new trends and changes that I was seeing or hearing about,” he says.
Sylvia Jensen, vice president of Domestic Sales for Taos Footwear, concurs. “Bill was pragmatic, but not so cautious that it didn’t allow him to grow his business,” she says. “He understood relationships with vendors are important, and he knew a good shoe when he saw it.”
Van Dis says his father had a knack for making the stores beautifully
WORDS TO LIVE BY
Colleagues, family, and friends remember Bill Van Dis.
Hard-working, passionate, diligent, kind, welcoming, service-oriented, responsible, and uncanny business sense. He knew everything I ever wanted to know about the shoe business and small businesses. Any government report, leasing issue, accounting question, something going on with our building…he was the answer man. —Dan Van Dis, owner, V&A Bootery
Integrity, strong principles, passionate about beliefs, immersed in and caring of his community, giving, helpful. —Jill Snyder, owner, Snyder’s Shoes
Great guy, dedicated to his customers, positive energy, great eye, pleasant, friend, family man, big smile, spark in his eyes. Bill would often call to compliment a “winner” style of ours and then always advise, “Please make sure you buy enough inventory.” He saw much in common with our family business story. Namely, to build a business with love and integrity, and to develop great partnerships that last forever.
—David Ben Zikry, CEO, Spring Footwear Corp.
True Shoe Dog. When Bill retired last February, it meant working 30 hours a week versus 50 hours. He loved his customers, staff, and shoe community. —Mark Denkler, president, NSRA
Fitting tribute: Van Dis at an NSRA/ Soles 4Souls event
Always positive, ability to connect quickly with anyone, calm, goodhearted. —Adam Beck, CEO, Beck’s Shoes
Friendly smile, respectful, great with product, dry sense of humor, successful family businessman. To have your life’s work continue to grow and prosper in the hands of the next generation is the ultimate legacy.
—Jeff Herrick, national sales director, U.S. Independents, Clarks Americas
merchandised. Products ranged from big-name brands to ones customers had never heard of. The mix included traditional styles that were staples in people’s closets as well as some edgy items. “He was a Shoe Dog at heart, and what one doesn’t love cool shoes?” Van Dis says, adding that his father was never afraid of change. “This business changed a lot over his 50-year career, and he was always on the cutting edge. He diligently watched trends, read industry magazines, and talked to people in and outside the business.”
Kind Soul
No doubt a great retailer, Van Dis will also be remembered for his kindness, generosity, and community philanthropy. The first word that comes to mind for Jeff Herrick, national sales director for U.S. independents at Clarks Americas, is “gentleman.” The two were close colleagues for 15 years. “Bill was the nicest guy. He was genuinely interested in you and what was going on in your life,” he says.
Ditto for Mahoney: “Bill was a gentle giant. He was always kind, gracious, and fair— somewhat rare qualities these days,” he says. “He had a booming laugh and was always fun to be around. Anytime you saw Bill, your day was a better one for it.”
Jensen describes Van Dis as a “great, big teddy bear!” He always made the time to talk to us, no matter how full his schedule was. “He wanted to touch base, learn, and get insights as to what was going on with hot styles,” she says. “And he was open, sharing a tough season, and how they would pivot and right the ship. He was a dear, sweet man, and he will be missed!”
Denkler concurs that Van Dis, an NSRA board member since 2013, had “a big heart.” He recalls one of Van Dis’s favorite activities: helping fit children with shoes during the Soles4Souls charity events that kicked off NSRA’s annual conferences. “It was his good nature and way of giving back,” he says, noting that Van Dis’s crowded funeral showed how much the community appreciated him. “He was known throughout Kalamazoo, as he served on many local boards and was involved with his church. People will smile when they think of all the good things he did for his family and community.”
Beck was on hand for those NSRA/Soles4Souls events, including one this past year in Hershey, PA, where Van Dis’s contagious enthusiasm stood out. Beck served as a shoe fitter and Van Dis greeted the kids. There were hundreds in attendance who received free shoes that day. “Bill was so eager and enthusiastic that about half the other greeters finally just stopped and watched him,” Beck recalls. “A smile never left his face as he walked the kids to the seats and had a chance to talk to them along the way. It showed his heart for people and his passion for our industry. He was a genuinely good human.” •
Team V&A Bootery: buyer Jeff Gibson and owners Dan and Bill Van Dis
Michigan Shoe Mafia members: Bill Van Dis, Jill Snyder, and Bill Golden
EASY DOES IT
Slip-on loafers: a sophisticated alternative to sneakers.
PATH FINDER
Mark Denkler, president of the National Shoe Retailers Association, reflects on a unique journey through corporate banking and independent retailing.
DEAR MARK…Your life story is about family and shoes. It starts with grandfather, Pop, a.k.a. Vince Canning. He owns The Peacock Shop, two shoe stores in Indianapolis, until the depression forces him to close in 1933. Ever the audacious man, he pivots to selling shoes on the road until he pays off his debts. Then he semi-retires to sunny Delray Beach, FL, and opens Vince Canning Shoes. His son, Vince, Jr., joins the business in 1957. It expands into a solid, four-store business over the ensuing decades.
Flash forward to 1972, and it’s your first childhood summer in Delray Beach with your aunt, uncle, and grandparents. It’s plenty of beach days and tennis matches, but also lots of hard work in the stores. Your first job is cleaning the ashtrays daily. Over the next five summers, you take on more responsibilities and learn retail’s Golden Rule: treat customers how you want to be treated. Other key sales floor lessons: never judge, show everyone respect, and always act like a gentleman.
Now it’s senior year of college at the University of Texas, where you’re majoring in Finance. You have a sit down with Uncle Vince to talk about your future. He makes you an offer: general manager with a salary of $50,000. It’s very tempting. But it isn’t the path for you—yet. You politely decline, determined to forge your own path and learn the corporate world first. You take a position as an auditor with a local bank for $19,000 a year. You might think this is crazy, but this decision teaches you another great business lesson: money isn’t always the most important consideration. Your experience as an auditor teaches you about accounting and internal controls, both critical skills to operating a successful retail business.
experience than you. You’re also reminded that money isn’t the only consideration. You spend that first year or so living off your savings and returning all profits back into the business. This proves important as you have the cash to maintain high credit standards with vendors, and you always pay on time. Side note: cash is king.
One of your first official acts as owner is investing in a computer software system. Unlike your uncle, who claimed he could “look at the wall and tell you anything that’s missing,” you know technology is key to maintaining inventory and retaining customers while increasing profits. Side note: technology is your friend.
Then it’s off to your first WSA Show, where you make one of the smartest business decisions you’ll ever make by attending a NSRA education workshop. By chance, you sit next to Danny Wasserman of Tip Top Shoes. He offers incredible business insights that you’ve never even considered. You also learn a great deal from Maurice Breton of Comfort One Shoes. Many of his brand roster will soon become staples of your merchandise mix. The NSRA community becomes your source for tips and trade secrets. Mentors-turned-friends include Paul Muller, Randy Brown, Jim Sajdak, Ed Habre, Alan Miklofsky, and Phil Wright. They’re Shoe Dog sages. Side note: always be networking.
Your next career stop, in 1986, is the executive credit training program at First City Bank. You become a lender and learn invaluable financial skills. As a fresh-faced, 25-year-old, you work with seasoned corporate CFOs from Kroger, Federated Department Stores, NCR, and Proctor & Gamble, among others. It’s intimidating, but you gain confidence in your financial skills. In 1989, you move to Fuji Bank, then the largest financial institution in the world. This is the leveraged buyouts era. You love the excitement and challenges. You manage more than $3 billion in loans, including a single, $1 billion loan. Long hours are the norm, but there’s no complaint when you love your job.
But your family’s rich shoe retailing legacy starts calling. It’s time to return to your roots. Plus, you have a secret weapon: your wife, LaRonda. She’s a top buyer at Foley’s. (She was “buyer of the year” in 1992.) Together, you make a great team.
In 1994, you buy Uncle Vince’s store. The lessons learned in your career immediately come into play. Like the importance of confidence in your abilities. It’s key as you manage salespeople with more shoe
After a decade working closely with NSRA, you’re invited to be on its board. In 2010, you become Vice Chair. When you’re asked the following year to become Chair, you’re surprised and humbled. Why a single-store operator and not a multi-store owner? You’re told that it isn’t just about running a successful business. It’s also about leadership qualities. You’re grateful for the opportunity, and even more motivated to make it count.
In 2020, you retire from Vince Canning Shoes and Tootsies (acquired in 2015). A year later, you’re offered another great opportunity: NSRA president. The world is turned upside down by a pandemic. It’s a tumultuous time in independent shoe retailing, and that’s saying something for a channel that has endured wars, recessions, big box retailers, online behemoths, and direct-to-consumer competition. Your retail experience and corporate banking knowledge come in handy. You’re thrilled to assist in any way possible—just like the Shoe Dog sages who helped you along your career journey. You love this industry, and you love giving back.
Take great comfort in knowing that the choices you made throughout your career have been mostly right. (Nobody’s perfect.) You’ve done well! You made the right call by learning from the corporate world before going into small business. You treat others with respect and cultivate strong relationships. You seek out knowledge and implement that wisdom into your business and personal life. You balance hard work with family time. Above all, you follow the path meant for you!
Retail power couple: LaRonda and Mark Denkler in 1996.
THE WHITE STUFF
The summer boots trend heats up.
DESIGNERS ARE ON POINT WITH DANCE-INSPIRED DETAILS.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS
STYLING BY MARIAH WALKER
Taos elasticized topline flats with removable footbed.
Mephisto Mary Jane
sneakers. Opposite page: FSNY ballet flat with topline lace detail; ankle wrap wedge espadrilles by Andre Assous
Spring Step quilted flats with sawtooth sole; satin sneaker with ankle strap by All Black; Mary Jane with Velcro closure by Naot Opposite page: Jambu laser cut floral ballet sneaker.
Aetrex ballet flats with memory foam insoles. Opposite page: Nicky Hilton x French Sole leather flats with embroidered bow detail; cork platform sandal by Impo
Chinese Laundry mesh ballet flats with rhinestone details. Opposite page: raffia heeled flats by Vaneli
Gabor cap toe flats with low heel. Opposite page: ballet flat with bow details by Patrizia
Almond toe flats with mini wedge by Sclarandis
Opposite page: Fly London cutout dance shoe with tie detail.
Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; models: Fiona Auguet/Q Mgmt., Olivia Schofield/Fenton Models.; hair and makeup: Andrea Wilson/Next Artists; photo asst: Raymond Collette; photo and styling asst: Nellyfer Espinoza.
Cute & Comfy Shoes and Apparel
Nashville, TN
ARCY BOMER, FOUNDER of Cute & Comfy Shoes and Apparel, knows the importance of stylish and wearble footwear. During her previous career as a software analyst in Houston, Bomer developed foot pain. Despite her doctor’s advice, she held off on purchasing comfortable shoes, as she struggled to find any that aesthetically appealed to her. Her foot discomfort worsened. Something had to give.
Bomer finally visited a Foot Solutions and left with comfy shoes—and a new job. The Nashville native went on to work her way up to manager of that shop and, after two years, moved back to the Music City where, in 2009, she opened her store with the premise of providing women with equally fashionable and comfortable shoes. Daughter Devri Penrod, co-owner, gets credit for the name after hearing constant pleas for “cute and comfy” shoes.
The mother-daughter duo and their staff are knowledgeable about foot problems, like plantar fasciitis, Morton’s neuroma, bunions, and hammer toes. As the store’s website explains, the staff takes time “to help you find the right shoes for your needs both physically and stylistically!” Cute & Comfy merchandise mix spans dressier styles from Gabor, L’Amour Des Pieds, Ara, and NYDJ, along with casual staples from Dansko, Aetrex, Haflinger, and Naot.
Fifteen years since stepping foot into the shoe business, Bomer remains most proud of the Cute & Comfy community she’s built with her daughter. “Our customers feel at home. They’re in a neighborhood store where we’re just glad to see them,” she says. “We might offer them a beverage, sit on the couch and see how their family is doing, or we’ll sell them three bags full of shoes and accessories.” —Kiernan McCormick
What are your top-selling brands and styles this year? The number one brand in our store, by a landslide, is Naot. The style that continues to perform for us is the Agathis Mary Jane. The second best-selling shoe is the Ophelia pump by Ara.
What is the best new brand that you’ve added to your mix recently? Kizik.
Who are your core customers? Women between
40 and 90 years old who are tired of mall shopping and mediocre footwear.
Who is your fastest growing customer segment?
The younger, more active customer. We’re in a new location, next to Trader Joe’s, a nail salon, and a skincare place. They buy shoes from brands like Remonte because they’re really good at making cute sneakers.
Anything unique about the Nashville customer in terms of brand, style, or color preferences?
The Nashville customer loves all things navy. It’s something that I really have to pay attention to and keep in stock when it comes to clothing and shoes. The customer I cater to is not interested in cowboy boots and fringe. We’re not in a tourist area, so I don’t even look at those items.
How does fit, brand, style, and price rank in order of importance for your customers? Fit, style, price, brand.
What can customers experience in your store
that they won’t likely elsewhere or online? We won’t oversell them or push anything on them. And we have a teamwork environment. My employees aren’t on commission, and I encourage them to help each other, like get the shoes that aren’t working out of the way so customers don’t have to walk over a lot of boxes. You get personal service. Also, we have the best selection of shoes in the Southeast. People walk in and their mouths drop open. They’re like, “Oh my gosh, this is like a shoe emporium.”
What’s the best in-store promotion you’ve ever done? The buy two get one free, store-wide promotion. That’s how we moved out some merchandise right before we moved to our new location. We’ll probably do it again in the first week of January to get some stuff out.
How’s business this year overall? Business every month is up, and overall up over last year. We’re doing great. Nashville is a very small businessminded city. We’re blessed.
How is your online sales channel doing? It’s about 12 to 15 percent of our business.
What are your top goals for 2025? Do a better job at advertising on Instagram and Facebook. I also want to increase our following on Instagram.
What are your biggest challenges, and how do you plan to overcome them? Time management of my bookkeeping and back-of-the-house processes. I’m going to hire the person who does my accounting for taxes to do my monthly bookkeeping instead of me.
Having been in business for 15 years, what do you attribute your longevity to most? My repeat customers who spread the word and bring their daughters in. That’s key because then we get another customer for the next 20 years.
Where do you envision Cute & Comfy in three years? We’re going to stay in the same location, keep our existing customers comfortable and cute, and grow our current customer base. I don’t see a lot of changes in the next three years, other than continuing to grow our sales like we have every year.
Dynamic buying duo: Darcy Bomer and Devri Penrod stand proud in their gleaming shoe emporium.
Street Feet
Santa Fe, NM
TREET FEET OWNERS
Lou Ann
Toland and Margaret Hanson started as neighboring business owners and quickly developed a friendship. In 1986, it blossomed into opening a shoe boutique together in the Railway District of Santa Fe. Several years later, Street Feet moved to its current location in Santa Fe Plaza’s historic La Fonda Hotel and it’s been pretty much shoe retailing bliss since.
The store offers a versatile selection of comfortable styles, including boots from Blundstone, Miz Mooz, and Pikolinos, along with stylish sandals and sneakers from Gabor, Asportuguesas, Remonte, and Wonders. Street Feet also carries accessories such as hats, socks, and ponchos.
Store Manager Kamilah Muhammad says that next to Street Feet’s topnotch customer service, its curation of merchandise sets the shop apart from the competition. “Walking through our store, each grouping offers something unique and has a viewpoint,” she says, adding, “As a boutique shoe store, the addition of accessories adds a fun element for shoppers. Often, we select our accessories based on our footwear selections, so you can really put an entire look together.” —K.M.
What are your top-selling brands this year? It changes seasonally but, overall, Pikolinos is our strongest brand. Asportuguesas, Toni Pons, Miz Mooz, Taos, Rieker, and Remonte are also important. In addition, Sofft boots have been strong this fall.
What is the best new brand that you’ve added to your mix recently? Saola. We did a test run with them this fall, and we’re excited to introduce them in a big way this spring.
Is there an “it” shoe this fall? Fashionable and comfortable sneakers continue to be “it”!
Who are your core customers? She’s over 40 and well-travelled.
Who is your fastest growing customer segment? After years of selling women’s shoes exclusively, we’ve expanded with men’s and unisex styles.
A
friendship of nearly 40 years serves as the foundation of Street Feet’s success.
We’ve been pleasantly surprised with the interest in our men’s selection.
Anything unique about the Santa Fe customer in terms of brand, style, or color preferences? Santa Fe women wear boots year-round, so we always carry a strong selection. We’re also drawn to styles, patterns, and colors inspired by the Southwest. Our city is also a vacation destination, and customers are looking for something they can’t find at home.
How does fit, brand, style, and price rank in order of importance for your customers? Style, fit, price, brand.
What’s the best in-store event you’ve ever done? In 2013, we held an event for the Maasai collection by Pikolinos. The collection was part of an initiative that combined the beadwork of Maasai women from Kenya with Pikolinos’ comfort sandals made in Spain. All the brand’s profits from this project went to the Maasai community to help build schools and healthcare facilities. Maasai leader, William Ole Pere Kikanae, wearing his traditional garb, came to our store and opened the hearts of everyone who walked in that day!
How’s business this year overall? Down a bit from last year, but thankfully still brisk.
How is your online sales channel doing? Online sales represent a small percentage of our overall sales. However, our online presence is very important. It’s a strong tool to engage our existing customer base and introduce our store to new customers.
The good news is...Shoes continually inspire us, and our strongest lines keep getting stronger.
The bad news is...Our storage space is limited. We always joke that our eyes are bigger than our stockroom.
What’s the smartest business decision you’ve made this year? Dropping a major brand due to logistical issues. Knowing when to walk away is an important part of running a business.
Having been in business for nearly 40 years, what do you attribute Street Feet’s longevity to most? An owners’ partnership based in friendship, shared ethics, and complimentary skills. From this stable core, we’ve been able to keep employees and customers over the long-term.
What are your goals for 2025? To continue to look at our business in fresh ways, keep mixing it up, and be open to new approaches and ways to improve.
What is your biggest challenge, and what are you doing to overcome it? We have an amazing core staff, but recently we’ve had difficulty hiring new employees. There are fewer applicants. We’ll just continue to offer competitive wages, expand our outreach, and be patient until the right person comes along.
What are you most proud of regarding the business? Our positive relationships with vendors, customers, and employees. This is the basis for our success and enjoyment of life!
Quality Over Quantity
Clara
Barcelo, founder of her eponymous label, creates durable, fine-crafted designs.
By Greg Dutter
WHEN IT COMES to describing women’s fashion footwear, durable is not an often used adjective. Delicate, perhaps, but that’s just not Clara Barcelo’s way. The Argentinian designer believes that in an age of fast fashion, where quality and craftsmanship often take a backseat, her thoughtful, durable, and more sustainable styling resonates with a growing number of consumers.
“Rather than flooding the market with fleeting styles, we focus on creating a select range of durable, beautifully crafted shoes that prioritize quality over quantity,” Barcelo explains. “This approach not only reduces waste but also speaks to consumers who value products that last—those few essential items that add the most value to their wardrobes.”
Launched in 2010, Barcelo says it’s time to introduce U.S. consumers to the brand. “Our target customer isn’t driven solely by trends, but by an emotional connection to the items she wears,” Barcelo says. “She values stories behind the styles and that reflect her lifestyle of thoughtfulness, independence, and understated yet deliberate sophistication.”
For Spring/Summer ’25 that translates to a vibrant yet grounded aesthetic, balancing playful and bold designs across boots, sandals, and sneakers. The overall emphasis is on comfort without sacrificing style. The palette spans lively hues like bright reds, yellows, and deep blues to softer, earthy tones such as rose and natural greens as well as metallic touches like silver and pewter. As for materials, it’s a mix of high-quality leathers with metallic finishes alongside matte natural tones. Embellishments include intricate embroidery, fine ornamentation, and contrasting color-blocking.
“Our shoes are a blend of bold artistic expression and meticulous craftsmanship,” Barcelo says. “Every pair reflects Argentina’s vibrant culture and rich leatherworking traditions, combining elegance with a contemporary edge. The result is shoes that are not only comfortable and durable, but also carry a distinctive, high-end artisanal appeal.”
shifting toward sustainable, timeless products and designs, and we see that as the wind in our sails and sales, propelling our growth,” she says. “By aligning with this movement, we aim to offer collections that resonate deeply with the values of today’s consumers.”
Why is durability so important? True luxury and style should endure. The essence of Clara Barcelo lies not in producing countless designs but in focusing on key pieces that provide the most value and joy to our customers. Our approach follows the 80/20 principle, where 20 percent of our efforts yields 80 percent of the long-term satisfaction and utility for customers. That’s why durability is at the core of everything we create. We believe in delivering lasting value. From using high-quality, locally sourced leathers to collaborating with artisans who apply traditional techniques, every step we take is to ensure longevity. By focusing on quality over quantity we deepen the connection between the wearer and their shoes, aligning with our commitment to timeless integrity and an exceptional customer experience. In stressing durability, we’re not just meeting the demands of the present but also setting a standard for future expectations. Durability is not merely a feature; it’s a promise and a reflection of our dedication to creating footwear that truly matters.
What are some signature design details? Clara Barcelo is a fusion of artisanal craftsmanship and modern styling. We often incorporate distinctive leatherwork techniques, such as hand-braided straps and detailed stitching, elevating each piece beyond mere functionality. A key element is the use of textured and trimmed leather, which adds depth to our overall aesthetic. Other signature details include bold, angular shapes, sophisticated color-blocking, and custom soles that offer both elegance and durability. Additionally, our designs often infuse Argentine cultural elements, such as naturalist or gaucho style and artisanal metal working and lapidary techniques to create unique embellishments. These components come together to create shoes that are refined yet grounded in a sense of authenticity and heritage.
Barcelo, a former footwear design intern turned bikini designer/wholesaler, is thrilled to be designing shoes for a living. Her return to the industry happened by coincidence. One of her bathing suit clients asked her to design a pair of children’s sandals. The positive reception encouraged Barcelo to create more designs, which she first sold at fairs and on Facebook. Word of mouth quickly expanded the client roster, which led to opening a showroom, expansion into wholesale, and a flagship store. Barcelo eventually shifted to designing women’s styles, which are made in a family-owned factory in Argentina. The rest is an emerging brand story in the making. Barcelo has found her design sweet spot, and is excited to write future chapters. “The zeitgeist of fashion is
Who is the Clara Barcelo woman? She has a distaste for disposable fashion, preferring products that she can form a personal bond with. She seeks shoes that cut through the vicissitudes of social media trends, offering timeless quality and character that resonate with her deeply held values. She recognizes and values this authenticity. She believes in quality, sustainability, and wearing pieces that reflect her beliefs, experiences, and personal story.
Where do you look for inspiration? Inspiration often comes from vivid details of everyday Argentine life, be it landscapes, architecture, and personal moments. It can be a detail spotted at a restaurant that sparks an idea for a piece of
Clara Barcelo
piece of hardware or embroidery. A simple sketch from one of my nieces or nephews can also inspire a new design. That’s why each collection is unique. It’s why every style is baptized with a name, which honors the love and time invested in creating them. I’m deeply influenced by The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. I carry that same dedication to each shoe as the Little Prince did to his rose. Thus, our attention to detail is our overriding muse—an ode to the moments, inspirations, and loved ones that make each creation significant.
Clara Barcelo fuses durability with artisanal touches and Argentine flair to create unique looks.
What is your distribution strategy for the U.S.? Initially, we aim to partner with select boutiques to ensure our shoes are positioned as premium, artisanal products. These relationships will allow us to maintain quality control and create a deeper brand connection with retailers. Rather than pursue rapid expansion, we aim to cultivate meaningful partnerships with boutiques that appreciate the artistry and longevity of our products. We believe in creating spaces where Clara Barcelo becomes a brand associated with timeless style and lasting quality. We hope to instill a sense of loyalty and trust with our retailers, underscoring our commitment to sustainable, thoughtful fashion. Along those lines, we embrace the Argentine tradition of fostering close client relationships, bringing warmth and attentiveness to every interaction. We believe this will provide U.S. retailers and consumers with a refreshing and relatable experience, enhancing the connection to our brand and values. Over time, we see opportunities to curate specific collections and make them available through a variety of channels.
Where do you envision your U.S. business in three years? As a recognized name in the market celebrated for our authentic, high-quality, and durable footwear. We expect to have built strong relationships with select boutiques as well as a thriving ecommerce platform.
What are some of Clara Barcelo’s responsible sourcing examples? We use recycled cardboard for boxes and our ecommerce bags are compostable and biodegradable. In addition, our leather suppliers follow best practices in processing, such as using water-based finishing methods, minimizing energy consumption, and responsibly manage chemical
waste. They also implement closed-loop water systems to reduce water waste and ensure safe working conditions through regular monitoring of air quality and exposure levels.
What is the best business advice you’ve received? It came from my first boss. We met for coffee at a time I was overwhelmed with pressures about growing this business. He said, “It’s time to grow to the inside.” Meaning, I needed to reconnect with the essence of my work and remember the early days when my passion for designing was pure and unhindered. It was a wake-up call. I’d allowed the responsibilities of running this business to overshadow my creativity and love of design. It helped me re-engage with my passion, and ensure that my enthusiasm remains at the heart of every Clara Barcelo creation.
What shoe must every woman have in her closet? A cool pair of sneakers. We offer a big variety, including bootie-like styles, artisanal soles, embroidery details, metallic ornaments, and platforms.
First shoe-related memory? When I was three, I loved wearing my Mom’s shoes, especially her black cowboy boots. I felt like Wonder Woman in them.
What do you love most about designing shoes?
The intensely handmade nature of the process. Every detail requires careful attention, and I’m constantly drawn to how each piece comes together to create something unique. Unlike clothing, where you have some flexibility with fit, shoes must be precise. If they don’t fit, they simply won’t work. That’s why I focus so much on comfort. I also love thinking about the journey each pair will take. They’re more than just shoes. They must be comfortable to support people on great adventures and meaningful enough to tell a story along the way. Designing shoes is about creating pieces that become trusted companions for every path the wearer chooses to explore.
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