Earnshaw's | November/December 2016 by Wainscot Media

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BEYOND BOLD

N O V / D E C 2016 CONTENTS

F E A T U RE S 12 Creative Force Biscotti and Kate Mack Founder and Designer Bernadette Reiss explains how she keeps tabs on the pulse of girls’ apparel trends. 14 Star Performers Business owners Louise Connor and Cynthia Radocy receive recognition for their longevity. 16 2016 Earnie Awards This year’s A-list winners reveal how they thrived in a challenging year.

FA S H I O N

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Kristin Young Editor-in-Chief Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Emily Beckman Associate Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CONTACT INFO

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6 Editor’s Note 8 Small Talk 10 Trend Watch 25 New Resources 36 Up Close 40 Parting Shot

26 City Chic Hit the streets to see what the cool kids are wearing for Spring ’17.

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This page (left to right): Kapital K top, Nadadelazos sweatshirt, Sierra Julian shorts, Native sneakers; Ü blubyblu sweatshirt, Appaman shirt, Sierra Julian skirt, Native sneakers.

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On cover: Appaman blazer, Little DiLascia T-shirt, Kwadusa skirt, Childrenchic shoes.

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Photography by Zoe Berkovic/ Tricia Joyce Inc.; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; hair and makeup by Vivi Lapidus.

Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

CORPORATE

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 135 West 20th Street, Suite 402 New York, NY 10011. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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JANUARY! Before Florence, Paris & London... The World of Children's Fashion & Accessories Comes to New York City. JANUARY 8 -10 2017 JACOB JAVITS CENTER

Special Presentation

Introducing

Renowned children’s fashion show producers, Petite Parade will stage their first-ever kid’s runway presentation at Children’s Club.

An on-site social media studio for industry interviews and discussions hosted by Earnshaw's.

MONDAY JANUARY 9, 2017

SUNDAY-TUESDAY JANUARY 8-10, 2017

2017

COASTS. IMPORTANT SHOWS. ESSENTIAL MARKETS. for The Most Critical Buying Season of the Year for Retailers, Brands, Students and their Parents.

EDITOR’S NOTE

A Toast to the Winners! CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL the 2016 Earnie Award winners. This is the 39th year Earnshaw’s has turned to you, our readers, to determine the best and the brightest in the childrenswear industry and, once again, you enthusiastically came together to promote your peers. This year, we expanded our reach and created 26 categories that reflect the sector’s breadth, from apparel and footwear to juvenile products and novelty items. As part of the annual tradition, Earnshaw’s is pleased to bring you each winner’s story, p. 14, starting with Hall of Famers Louise Connor and Cynthia Radocy whom we honored for their longstanding commitment to the children’s fashion industry. We posed this question to each executive we interviewed: Against the backdrop of a contentious presidential election and this year’s continued contraction of brick-and-mortar retail, what did you do right? Some of the answers—ranging from ramping up investments in technology to simply remaining open for business every day—may surprise you. As we went to press, the 45th president of the U.S. had also just been determined and, as such, we wondered what the children’s business would be like under a Trump administration. In “Election Reflection,” p. 8, Associate Editor Emily Beckman asked manufacturers, retailers and showrooms about trade, tariffs and whether it really matters who is in the White House. Our reporting this month revealed another characteristic of the childrenswear business that I’ve come to appreciate: The way childrenswear companies do business matters greatly. Both retailers and manufacturers talked of attributes like friendliness, employing a welcoming attitude, building loyalty and the value of honesty and fair play as being crucial to their businesses in the long-term. Creating customers for life, not just for today, was a sentiment we heard often. As we look into the New Year and a new administration, I’ve no doubt there is some anxiety about the unknown. With the break-neck speed of globalization and advances in technology continuing its relentless march into the future, we all feel a bit disoriented at times. Transition is never easy. But I believe the childrenswear industry will adapt with grace and goodwill. There’s a lightness in childrenswear—no doubt inspired by the pint-sized end consumers themselves—that doesn’t exist elsewhere. It carried us through a challenging 2016, and it will carry us through next year and beyond.

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SMALL TALK

ELECTION REFLECTION The contentious 2016 election is now over and Donald J. Trump is our president-elect. On election night the futures market took a plunge, but the Dow recovered to almost record highs in the following few days. The domestic and foreign policies of Mr. Trump have yet to be fleshed out, and this uncertainty has influenced a spectrum of opinion on how his administration will affect the children’s fashion industry. To get a snapshot, Earnshaw’s set out to take the temperature of our peers – interviewing boutiques, showroom reps and brands about how Trump’s ideas on trade, taxes, immigration and infrastructure would either energize or demoralize those on the front lines of our business.

“We will be carrying on business as usual. Our manufacturer in India emailed us late last night to ask if the election outcome would change the way we do business with them, to which we answered ‘absolutely not.’ There might be changes in customs tariff at some point in the future, but that would have to be evaluated as regulations change.” —ALIYA TUFAIL, CO-FOUNDER OF THE SPUNKY STORK

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“I lost a couple orders from Mexican high-end boutiques. I presume some initial conversations with big retailers there might be stalled for a while due to uncertainty. I hope the rhetoric we’ve heard about creating jobs and bringing production back to the U.S. actually becomes something that supports us American-made brands and small businesses in general. I hope that government incentives and a general appreciation for American-made craftsmanship continue and become something sought-after and valued.” —ANA BIANCHI, FOUNDER OF PAPERGIRL “Trump ran on a platform of renegotiating all trade agreements in terms of being more protective, so I think a major concern is whether goods are going to flow easily like they have in the past. If not, we will start experiencing inflationary results.” —LOUISE CONNOR, OWNER OF THE SHOWROOM

“All morning I’ve been getting phone calls of reorders. It seems like it’s just business as usual. No matter what happens in the economy, retailers are going to continue to buy what sells.” —JEANETTE TRUJILLO, OWNER OF THE GLITTER BOX SHOWROOM

modal and bamboo are taking over the market as a hot-ticket item. I think it’ll be a matter of educating the consumer properly about what options are available.”—ALLISON MOROZE, OWNER OF ALI’S MARKET SHOWROOM

“Regarding Trump’s promise to bring business back to the U.S.—that we’ll be making our own clothes here—I don’t think he can do that. We [in Oakland] don’t have the infrastructure to begin to compete with what we can get done in China. It’s just a total fantasy. I think the whole issue about trade and all the talk about trade deals, I don’t think he’ll be able to implement too much change that would hurt the business.” —BERNADETTE REISS, FOUNDER AND DESIGNER OF BISCOTTI AND KATE MACK

“Short-term, all the concerns about his winning being bad for retail have gone away. Retailers will be promoting holiday deals and consumers will take advantage of them. This will help shake the September and October lull. Brands will be back to chasing the trends and need to get in front of them rather than be behind them.” —MARSHAL COHEN, CHIEF INDUSTRY ANALYST OF THE NPD GROUP

“The children’s business will figure out another way if there’s a blockade, whether it be finding more domestic brands or working with one expanded domestic brand—we always evolve. I remember 30 years ago when I would go shopping and if it didn’t say ‘Made in America’ it was a huge deal. I remember 20 years ago, everything had to be made from cotton. Now,

BY EMILY BECKMAN

“Economically, I have no reason to believe small businesses will be protected and encouraged. Trump has said he will lower taxes for the wealthy and corporate taxes. Neither of those are me.”—CAROL ADAMS, OWNER OF TORLY KID BOUTIQUE

TREND WATCH

Strokes of Genius

Autumn Cashmere sweater

Sophie Catalou dress

SPLASHES AND SPLODGES douse Spring ’17 collections in painterly prints. The art project originated in Spring ’14 when many womenswear designers like Vivienne Westwood and Chanel brought the artist’s studio to the runway with a nod to key movements such as Cubism, Art Deco and Art Nouveau. While the colorful creativity looked striking on women in past seasons, no one wears messy-chic better than kids. With finger-painting and splatter stains so close to heart, the paint effect is only a natural fit for the creatives of tomorrow. —Emily Beckman

Go Gently Nation tank top

Mini A Ture Copenhagen

Freshly Picked moccasin

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Missie Munster sweatshirt

Someday Soon bucket hat

Geox high-top sneaker Andy & Evan romper

Native shoe

No Sugar Added jumpsuit

Nadadelazos dress

Frenchie Mini Couture cold-shoulder top

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BY KRISTIN YOUNG

Creative Force t is fitting that Earnshaw’s should profile Biscotti and Kate Mack Founder and Designer Bernadette Reiss in this month’s Earnies’ issue. Her company has won an Earnie Award 15 times for both swimwear and dresses since the magazine first handed out the award 39 years ago. That’s a remarkable track record leading the designer to quip, “You’d think we were a big company.” Biscotti has a wide reach. Located in Oakland, Calif., the brand has morphed into a business with 1,000 retailers worldwide and has further international expansion plans in its sights. With a penchant for beautiful fabrics and eye-catching details, Biscotti has tapped into fashion-conscious young teens and their mothers, some of whom are Katie Holmes, Victoria Beckham and

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Heidi Klum. Reiss is one of those creative types who doesn’t just love to create, she has to. It was clear early on in her career that she would abandon her background as a psychology major at U.C. Berkeley and medical school for a life of fashion. “I don’t think I really had a choice,” she says. “I was destined to be a designer every since the age of 9. I would think about my clothes for school, put outfits together and set trends with my friends. I loved to surprise people and be the first to risk a new look.” Reiss founded Biscotti in 1986 as a line of separates inspired by a trip to Italy. Having recently given birth to a daughter with hus-

band Bob Mack, she mused that clothing in Europe far surpassed that in the U.S. and modeled a business plan upon sophisticiated fashionable clothing. By 1989, Biscotti was thriving, outgrowing an 8,000-square-foot factory for a 50,000-square-foot space. It was at that time she convinced her husband, a doctor,

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY L AU R A A L D R I D G E

How Biscotti and Kate Mack Founder and Designer Bernadette Reiss caters to fashionable girls.

to retire from running an emergency room and join her team. He did. “He still has his license and people at Biscotti still come to him with little questions about their health,” says Reiss. “He likes taking care of people.” In 2001, sister brand Kate Mack, named for her second daughter (her first daughter is Amber Reiss-Holt) burst onto the scene with swimwear, dresses and outerwear. Earnshaw’s caught up with Reiss to talk about childrenswear, the thrill of Malia Obama wearing a red taffeta Biscotti dress to her father’s first Democratic National Convention and the company’s new baby division called Lait-ETTE. bbb How did you get into the apparel business? I was living in Berkeley, and there was a store I loved called Yarmo that carried dress designer Karen Alexander. Her dresses channeled my taste in some kind of profound way. I remember thinking, ‘If I design dresses, this would be exactly what I would do.’ I found myself getting the designer’s name and phone number, calling her and asking if she could design my wedding dress. I was planning to get married. She said, ‘Sure. Come on down. I’ll design it for you, but it’ll be part of my holiday collection, if that’s okay.’ I agreed. She invited me to her factory and studio in West Oakland, which was in this old barely-renovated fire station. You walked in, and there was this big cage with a gorgeous parrot in it, and it was this whole little world—a sanctuary for design, production and shipping. Meeting her and seeing her operation sent me over the moon. I was totally sold on the fact that somehow, some way, I would thrive on designing and running a business like hers. The funny thing about it is her daughter now works for me. She’s on our design team. Why did you get into childrenswear as opposed to womenswear? My early experience as a designer was in fun and trendy junior and contemporary dresses and sportswear. I spent a month traveling in Italy where I was dazzled by the fashionable children’s clothing. In 1983, the children’s market in the United States was very basic. There was no tailoring, no

CHAT ROOM Whom would you invite out for a beer, dead or alive? I’ll say my husband and business partner, Bob. He’s very much alive. We’d probably talk about what happened during the day at Biscotti. His world is keeping things going in the current season, and I’m working on the next season. Sometimes we get confused about which season we’re talking about, but we get it worked out. What would people be surprised to know about you? Before I started Biscotti, I had two small companies in my early 20s designing young women’s dresses. I went to medical school, but I really didn’t have the stomach for it. I was in an anatomy class, and it was the day that a cadaver was going to come out of the closet behind me, and that was the day that I resigned from that idea. What’s on your iPad? I read the Wall Street Journal, a local San Francisco paper, The New Yorker and The New York Times. I also have a big sprawling novel called The Corrections by Jonathan Franzen.

fashion, no design—nothing cute. The cutest thing was OshKosh overalls. I thought I could offer some fresh and creative ideas that would resonate with buyers, mothers and kids. I thought to myself: ‘Let’s see what happens.’ I remember sending my sketches to the Saks Fifth Avenue buyer in advance of showing my first collection in New York. I got an appointment, and Saks grew into a very big account for us. What was the vision for Biscotti at the beginning? Biscotti actually started off as a very dressy separates collection. The second season, I did all dresses. It was a very small company back then. I was working out of my house, and I had three employees, so it was a good opportunity to explore the right balance of product. What did Kate Mack offer the market that was different from Biscotti? Kate Mack was launched in 2001 with a

swimsuit collection. We incorporated the girly details and Biscotti-like dimensional applications—climbing vines and flowers, tutu skirts on the suits—the novelty of it was a hands-down breathtaking success. People hadn’t seen tutus on swimsuits before. Parents told us their little girls were sleeping in their swimsuits. The fun part was doing something new and untested that resulted in a resounding success at wholesale and retail. For the winter season, we designed outerwear and sportswear—again reflecting the romantic vision and styling that permeated our dress and swim divisions. How big is the company now? We have about 44 employees. We have our own warehouse, and we do all the designing here in Oakland. I have a team of four designers plus a graphic artist. I also have sales merchandisers that help review and edit our collections. Another member of our team is our pre-production person who helps us execute embroideries and other creative ideas in a way that’s marketable and can be produced without any problems. Sometimes we come up with some really incredible ideas, and it takes quite a while working through how they are going to be executed. Embroidery might look great on a size 5, but it also has to adapt to a size 10. I love the process of problem-solving. The country has just decided its 45th president. I understand you have your very own political story. Malia Obama wore our dress to the Democratic National Convention in 2008. It was very exciting. I was lying in bed with Bob, and we were watching it and the family came out. I said to Bob, ‘That looks like our dress on Malia.’ He said, ‘Oh, no. It does?’ and I said, ‘I think it might be. I think she changed the belt around.’ And he said, ‘No, it couldn’t be.’ It looked completely different. Anyway, it was our dress.They went to Nordstrom and bought it. I think that helped put us on the map a little bit more, for sure. Suddenly, the press was calling me and wanting me to be on Good Morning America. I’ve never been more nervous in my whole life. There was no preparation for this public moment. However, I was honored to have our dress on Malia Obama. >37

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e a r n i e awa r d s h a l l o f fa m e

2016

Star Performers

Weathering the volatile economic climate for nearly four decades, this year’s Hall of Fame recipients, an expert showroom rep and a skilled retailer, are being recognized for their outstanding perseverance and customer service. Behold the secrets to longevity.

Louise Connor, Owner of The Showroom ALWAYS HAVING THE intention that she would end up in the psychology field, Louise Connor was in for a suprise when a friend invited her to help silkscreen T-shirts for a startup business. Agreeing to lend a hand, she stumbled upon a new career path—one that would ultimately lead to nearly four decades serving the children’s fashion industry. Connor claims that her master’s degree in psychology from Columbia University didn’t go to waste though. In fact, it became a great business tool in understanding and relating to clients: “Sales is personality,” she offers. “As we know from all our colleagues, personality is present in abounds, and it’s up to you to decipher their needs and be as helpful as possible.” Realizing her knack for childrenswear early on, Connor bought out the showroom she ran for her friend with the silkscreen business in 1980 (after only a year). Enter The Showroom, the commencement of Connor’s independent career as a showroom rep. Today, The Showroom operates like a well-oiled machine, nestled in a space on 33rd Street in New York. However, she admits that her journey to success began with a bit of trial and error: “When I started, I really didn’t know what I was getting into because it was not really something I was really trained for or looking to do,” she says. “It was truly an experiment and I was just going with the flow.” After weathering several business cycles (from the booming economy in the ’80s to the economic recession in 2008, Connor credits her success to her flexibility in times of uncertainty: “I think my ability to be nimble in changing times has been key,” she gleans. “Even though tough times have been trying, I’ve always been able to maintain an optimism through change. By analysis, business can always be done in a different way.” Using logic to prevail was not only admired by Connor’s clients (and the overall stability of her showroom), but a trait that the Fashion Institute of Technology was eager to invite aboard its staff in 2009. For almost three years, Connor taught “continuing education” workshops as an adjunct professor at FIT, discussing the inner workings of the children’s industry. In addition, she was offered a grant

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to run workshops for the industry helping to bring childrenswear professionals together for the good cause of education. “We shared resources, and we talked about receivables,” she reflects. “Simply how to keep businesses running in a smooth, profitable way.” With today’s economic climate, The Showroom has adapted by carrying fewer lines than they had in the beginning in order to hone in on its strengths: “There was a time period when we carried a lot more brands and we found that it really worked for us,” Connor says. “But we’ve found that in this environment we seem to be more successful keeping a narrower focus.” Between Connor and her “incredible” business partner Miriam Buchman—hiring Buchman in 1991 is reportedly the best business decision Connor ever made—the two women have strategized the best formula for successful outreach: “It’s a tricky combination of how to reach people with new technology and at the same time not flood them with so much information that you know everybody else is sending and still get heard above the noise.” Through e-blasts to more than 400 industry professionals as well as print publicity in publications like Earnshaw’s, Connor is able to elevate her showroom and showcase her longstanding lines, some of which include Petit Lem, Books To Bed and Mayoral’s newborn division. In addition to winning an Earnie Award, Connor says 2016 was a year of positive growth and change. Petit Lem transformed its line with a new look for the brand, while Connor also added Art & Eden, a new brand for the mother and child looking for an organic, free trade product as well as a strong charity component. So what’s in the pipeline for 2017? Only will time will tell as Connor stays hush about a big change to come. “It’s about brand realignment in the showroom,” she hints. Going forward, The Showroom plans to do what it does best: customer service. Connor says her favorite part of the business is interacting with retail professionals: “It is a sector of the industry that is very friendly,” she says. “The store owners are easy to work with—always making it easy to build relationships.”–Emily Beckman

Cynthia Radocy, Owner of Space Kiddets

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P O R T R A I T P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

Clockwise: Space Kiddets’ footwear display; Owner Cynthia Radocy; the Japanese-inspired approach Rodocy uses to merchandise the store.

CYNTHIA RADOCY WAS a glamorous fitting model in New York City and a regular at Studio 54 some 35 years ago. Childrenswear and retail seemed unlikely for the young woman and the Sex and the Cityesque lifestyle she had created for herself. But as it often happens in this business, a child entered her life and turned her world upside down. Her sister had her first child in 1980 and, sensing a need in the marketplace for cool kids clothing, the two women soon opened Space Kiddets near the Flatiron district (she has since bought out her sister). “Back then, there were no Baby Gaps, there were no Zara Kids,” Radocy explains. “There was nothing in the downtown area. Baby clothes were either pale pink or powder blue, and we did all cotton goods. We even had pediatricians send patients to this area and, back then, it was a questionable area.” Radical for its time, Space Kiddets also sold all-black childrenswear luring celebrities like Cher who, at the time, was raising Chastity (now Chaz) Bono. Space Kiddets was also unique in the way it displayed clothing. “I grew up in Japan and we displayed the clothing like they do there—with pushpins stuck to the wall,” says Radocy. “A class from the Fashion Institute of Technology once studied our presentation of clothing.” Today, Space Kiddets is a feast for the eyes, unique in its product displays and merchandising and, for that reason and more, is being inducted into the Earnie Awards Hall of Fame. Shoes, vintage frocks, edgy clothing hang alongside the store’s toys. This is not the land of apparel sets. Here, you mix and match sweaters, outerwear, tutus and dressy wear. Look around and you see vestiges of Radocy’s upbringing in Japan with Oriental flourishes. There’s also a vintage lunch pail that features images of Space Cadets, the television show from the ’50s which inspired the store’s name. “A lot of the stuff you see in here are memories from my childhood,” she says. “I had someone come in once and say, ‘These are all your memories, aren’t they?’” The unique mix has kept generations loyal to the independent boutique. “I hear from customers, ‘Hang in there, it’s great to see you,’” she says, noting a loyal throng of customers travel to her store every Christmas. “They really still want this type of store to exist. But it’s a very different ballgame now, it’s very challenging.” Among the challenges Radocy faces these days is European manufacturers demanding 30 percent up front and manufacturers selling directly to consumer. “The latter is a thorn in my side,” she laments. She will also drop a European line if she sees it on Amazon. The Internet, however, is not phasing her anymore. “Customers are realizing they like it when a sales associate remembers the names of their children,” she says. “Childrenswear is also very tactile and sensitive. I really think they are appreciative of this old-school type of atmosphere. With all of the technology out there, there aren’t too many interactive humanistic one-on-one situations anymore.” –Kristin Young

e a r n i e awa r d w i n n e r s

2016

The A-List

It’s no secret retailers are tough customers. That’s why we surveyed thousands across the children’s industry to reveal who the “cool kids” are in 2016. We’d like to congratulate this year’s honorees for their standout performance, and we encourage you to read on for the key to their success.

Company of the Year: Mud Pie

Best Denim: Hudson Kids

An ever-expanding resource for apparel and gifts in a challenging year earned Mud Pie its fourth Earnie Award. The firm, based in Stone Mountain, Ga., won Company of the Year in 2015 as well as Best Gifts in 2012 and Best Customer Service in 2011. Fred Pannek, president, spoke on behalf of the company and Founder and Chief Executive Officer Marcia Miller, who grew the company from a small housewares company in 2000 to a childrenswear company, including layettes, gifts, crawlers, hats and bibs in sizes newborn to 6 years. He says the company has enjoyed a growth spurt since 2007 with double-digit increases notched every year thanks to 62 salespeople on the road. This year, it was the six-member design team that helped push business over the finish line with oversized appliqué icons in themes like flamingo, mermaid or safari. “It was the boldness and size of the icons that set us apart,” Pannek says. The company has also added separates like girls’ tunics, sleeveless or 3/4-inch sleeves (perfect for monogramming), as well as embellished T-shirts with collar bands and fun appliqués for boys. Another change that occurred in 2016 was the addition of more themes and fewer pieces per theme to appeal to a greater range of retailers such as gift shops and general stores. Finally, keeping price points moderate—most items are tagged $35 to $40 at retail—helped keep customers loyal. “As we’ve grown, our ability to negotiate better with factories has kept us competitive,” he says. “Price is the driving force, especially in children’s clothing and our items come from India and Bangladesh to stabilize price points.” As ever, customer service plays a significant role in Mud Pie’s relationships with retailers. The company’s sales force provides hands-on consultations, the company stands by its product 100 percent and will always work with customers. “We’re very supportive,” says Pannek. “We have a loyalty program. We will issue credits. We tend to believe the customer is always right.” –Kristin Young

In 2013, 5-Star Apparel expanded its diverse portfolio by signing a licensing agreement with Hudson Jeans for children’s apparel. Following the DNA of its parent brand, Hudson Kids provides a contemporary, edgy aesthetic while never sacrificing comfort. Vice President of Sales Barbara Varnhagen joined the Hudson Kids team this year, excited to embrace the brand’s potential. She says that kids’ will be expanding to a full collection for Spring ’17, noting that Hudson Kids is already ranking as a top denim brand in Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. The new spring collection offers fun styles from trendy cold-shoulder tops and cropped jeans to studded vests and patchwork shorts. The most popular style themes include Boho destruction and motto glam. Furthermore, Varnhagen opines that the introduction of Hudson’s indigo knit material was one of the company’s smartest decisions. “We are very cognizant of fabric,” she says. “All of a sudden you’re wearing a jean, but it feels like a sweatpant.” The soft fabric received a tremendous response causing the brand to use it in other kids’ garments, and even the Hudson adult line. In favor of the new material, one children’s store manager commented: “I don’t care if Justin Bieber brings it to a kid’s house and asks her to wear it. If it’s not comfortable, she’s not going to wear it.” Varnhagen attributes the brand’s growth to word of mouth, magazines, bloggers and retailers. Further increasing outreach, Hudson Kids will be expanding to 46 Lord & Taylor stores in 2017. Hudson’s replenishment system that allows a store to stock core pieces of the kids’ jean business and replenish it on a weekly basis by size has also been successful. “A basic jean in a few different washes really allows a store to maximize the sales and minimize the floor space,” Varnhagen explains. “This is a great way to generate more happy customers.” –Emily Beckman

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Best Licensed Collection: Carter’s by Rashti & Rashti

Best Footwear: Skechers

This is the second year in a row Carter’s by Rashti & Rashti has snagged the Best Licensed Collection, a testament to the response the latest collections have garnered from retailers and consumers alike. Rashti & Rashti is the brainchild of Harry J. Rashti and his son John Rashti and is now run by John’s children, Charlotte and Michael Rashti. A 70-year-old company, Rashti & Rashti specializes in high-quality products under its own brands and licensed brands. Licensing first became important to the company 20 years ago when its collaboration with Carter’s began. Rashti had the know-how in gifts while Carter’s had the name retailers and customers recognized. Although the brands’ partnership is well-established, it has evolved. In recent years, Rashti & Rashti added technology, functionality and the expansion of sleep well products to the latest collection of Carter’s plush/toy category. Sleep products come in the form of animals that offer lullabies, sound, light and vibrations to sooth light sleepers while plush toys feature ultra-soft blankets. Licensing continues to be an important part of the Rashti & Rashti business, says the company’s marketing director, Danielle Signorelli, noting the company’s portfolio now includes Boppy, Taggies, Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer, Fisher Price, Sesame Street and Elf on a Shelf. And, while she could not elaborate further, she said the company will be adding new licenses in the sleepwear category in the future. “This is a product category the company plans to grow,” she explains. “We are interested in developing a long-standing relationship with our licensing partners.” –K.Y.

In today’s world where tablets and cellphones are toys for tots, Skechers understands the importance of incorporating tech-driven innovations in its designs. “This generation essentially has the world at their fingertips,” says Marc Rosko, Skechers vice president of kids’ product development. “It certainly keeps the design team on its toes!” The footwear company calls upon the team to consistently research what is trending in the lives of the consumer and integrate findings into the coming season’s styles. This year, the Skechers Game Kicks were a consumer favorite with its new remote control feature. To the delight of tech-savvy kids, the sneaker also incorporates an electronic game in the upper of the shoe. Rosko affirms that the Skechers Kids division stays focused on the details incorporated in the majority of the brand’s offerings. For instance, popular styles like Twinkle Toes feature embellishments not only in the toe bed, but also on the shoe upper. “Our design team continues to study the newest textiles, leathers and synthetics to elevate styles within Skechers Kids Sport with the newest and freshest upper materials,” Rosko offers. “Not to mention all styles include additional comfort with Skechers Memory Foam insoles— appreciated by both parents and kids alike.” Whether it is the Skechers Memory Foam insoles, the glitz and glam of Twinkle Toes or the light-up soles on S Lights, Skechers values every detail during the design process for a consistently quality product: “We continue to design our lines delivering trendrelevant, quality pieces at reasonable prices—all while integrating our signature secrets and tricks,” Rosko says. “With styles available from infants to adults, we’re proud to be a brand that serves the entire family.” –E.B.

Best Sleepwear: Kissy Kissy Staying true to the Kissy Kissy brand, commitment to customer service and expanding the line’s color palette were some reasons Founder and Owner Roxana Castillo offered when asked what snagged her the Earnie Award for Best Sleepwear. “Our customers love our pajamas and moms appreciate that they can keep their children in Kissy Kissy’s super-soft Peruvian Pima cotton beyond their baby and toddler years,” she says, noting sizes go up to 6 years. This spring, Kissy Kissy signed a two-year deal with the parent company of iconic baby gift character Sophie la Girafe which gives the brand the exclusive rights in the U.S. The character, which dropped in stores in June, adorned everything from pajamas to accessories up to size 2. “Retailers love that they can pair our pieces with Sophie teethers and toys to create themed vignettes in their stores and help gift-givers find new ways to

help baby, ” Castillo says, noting she always tries to find ways to offer fresh designs and hit the all-important “ahh” factor. One example is the line’s reverse prints featuring a colorful background rather than a typical white ground as well as mélange of fabrics that creates a heathered effect. For both spring and fall, customers gravitated to dainty mini patterns, delicate embroideries, pastels as well as 3-D tulle roses for girls while animals and sports-themed items were a must for boys. Nauticals also made a splash and Castillo says the company “excels at holiday themes.” This year for the first time, Kissy Kissy offered a Thanksgiving-specific pattern featuring colorful turkeys ready to feast. In a challenging year, Kissy Kissy stayed focused on fostering relationships with its retail partners, she says: “That goes a long way even amid market fluctuations.” –K.Y.

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2016

Best Girls’ Collection: MaeLi Rose

Best Infantwear: KicKee Pants

Sisters Carrie and Alison Chien grew up around production and fashion. Their mother, Lydia Chien, was in the importing business and would often take the little girls to buy trim and samples. The two would later go on to major in different subjects in college—intentionally—as if they were laying the foundation for childrenswear label MaeLi Rose they founded with their mom in 2012. Four years later, and the label has earned its first Earnie Award for Best Girls’ Collection. “I feel like the recognition really gives us confidence and reassures us that we’re headed in the right direction,” says Carrie. As Millennials, the sisters made a real push on social media this year. “From the very beginning of the production of a collection, we have more connection in our own community and that has been a really cool tool for us,” Carrie says. The designs this year were simple with a minimal color palette set off by trim, embellishment, a swatch of lace or a crochet patch. The collection is also meant to be built upon. “Boutique buyers display various pieces at different price points that allows for mixing and matching for multiple occasions,” Carrie explains. “It’s really about simple basics and elevating and embellishing them to make them stand out.” The approach has tapped into the way parents are shopping and what little girls are wearing. “It’s not realistic to have a new outfit everyday,” Carrie emphasizes. It’s a strategy that has put the line in 300 to 400 retailers. The future certainly looks bright for MaeLi Rose. The line surged ahead 35 percent this year. –K.Y.

For KicKee Pants, putting comfort first has always been nonnegotiable. Snagging its third straight Earnie Award, the cozy lifestyle brand is celebrating 10 years of booming business in the children’s industry: “It seems like just a minute ago we were in our garage with all these clothes hanging from the ceiling,” exclaims CEO, Designer and Co-Owner Aerin Nicole, describing the brand’s beginning. Celebrating a decade of achievement, the brand launched an anniversary collection for Fall ’16, elected by its loyal fan base. On the brand’s website, customers perused 10 years of fall prints and voted in April for their favorites which were reproduced for the season (the same applied to the Spring ’17 collection). “We typically never re-release prints,” offers Nicole. “So for our anniversary, this is a very special opportunity.” This exclusivity of prints was a shrewd business decision by the brand as it generated a cult following, particularly for the brand’s infant swaddle blankets. “This year, we literally cannot keep them in stock,” Nicole exclaims. “We had one of our styles sellout in 19 minutes—they are becoming a collectible item.” Of course, comfort-driven pajamas continue to thrive for KicKee Pants, but there has also been a positive response to new outfit sets: “I think moms are in a hurry with kids at their feet, and this is an easy way to give them something complete without having to piece together tops and bottoms,” Nicole explains. Going forward, she intends for the brand to expand its offerings further to include a wider range of apparel and accessories:“We are really looking to ultimately be recognized as more of a lifestyle brand.” –E.B.

Best Swimwear: Snapper Rock With more than 100 new styles added to the collection for 2016, Snapper Rock Founder Liz Eglinton is confident her brand offers something for everyone. “Sun protection is our focus so planning a collection where the customer can mix and match their bikini or one-piece with a short- or long-sleeved UV 50+ rash top is always key,” she explains. “Also, what sells in Florida may not sell in Los Angeles so variety is important.” This year, the brand’s gold flamingo collection turned out to be the top seller internationally. The two-time Earnie winner for Best Swimwear experimented in 2016 with digital printing to achieve new design effects. “Our feathers collection was one example,” Eglinton notes. “We couldn’t have achieved the gradation of this print without the digital printing process.” The brand hires graphic designers from both New Zealand

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and the U.S. to vary its perspective and create more unique handdrawn print designs to stand out in the market. Mixing a wider beachwear range was also a highlight for Snapper Rock. “Kaftans, jumpsuits and beach pants that tie into the swimwear line means our customers can go from the beach or pool to a party,” Eglinton remarks. Snapper Rock has also introduced Neoprene to the collection: “Following the Neoprene trends we saw in women’s, we were able to mix and match some cute wetsuit tops and vests into the range,” she says. Neoprene is particularly expected to resonate in areas with cooler water temperatures. Most of all, Eglinton is thrilled to see the global demand of sun protection continue to increase: “We are delighted that a UV 50+ swimwear company has won an Earnie as retailers recognize the importance of sun protection in swimwear.” –E.B.

Best Dresswear: Isobella & Chloe

Best Accessories: Chewbeads

Best Dresswear Earnie Award winner Isobella & Chloe has delivered mom- and dad-approved whimsical and stylish dresses for little girls for the better part of a decade. Founded by President and CEO Emily Fong in Los Angeles, the line is manufactured in Vietnam under the watchful eyes of her parents who strive to foster a safe and supportive workplace for their community. “The positive impact we have made toward their sustainable community reminds me how important, symbiotic and far-reaching human connection is,” says Fong. There is a story that goes with every garment, from sketches in L.A. to its creation by seamstresses in Vietnam to the little girl who wears them. This year was admittedly tough but Isobella & Chloe did a few things to effectively combat sluggish sales and increased competition, says Fong. The company implemented a reordering system, ranging from inventory to product images available at customers’ fingertips, maintained a strong presence on social media and maintained its loyal customer base. –K.Y.

Founders Elana Schulman and Lisa Greenwald continue to lead the accessory market when it comes to the teething jewelry trend, even despite the growing competition. Raking in its fourth consecutive Earnie Award, Greenwald quips, “We want to be the Kleenex of tissues.” This year, the brand offered two more concept lines: CB Go, a line of travel bath products and other necessities, and CB Eat, a line of silicone bibs. Chewbeads also expanded its jewelry collection to better target young boys. The brand previously offered a dog tag design for boys but now includes more fun options like robot and spaceman designs. According to Greenwald, the best decision the duo made this year was expanding its price point with new styles: “I think adding new necklaces, one at the higher price point and the other at entry level, will round out our product offering for retailers and customers alike.” –E.B.

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2016

Best Boys’ Collection: Appaman

Best Tween Collection: Limeapple

When the children of celebrity moms like Naomi Watts, Hilary Duff, Jessica Alba and Fergie strut Appaman up and down the streets and on the red carpet, it’s no wonder retailers flock to the brand’s fashion-forward yet functional styles. Winner of an Earnie Award three years in a row, Appaman continues to draw inspiration from all over the world while staying true to its strong brand recognition. “We always try to achieve high-end style combined with the comfort and playfulness that parents want from kids’ clothes,” explains Founder and Designer Harald Husum, reflecting on the season’s best performing styles like the faux leather biker jacket and down-filled coats, along with signature offerings of boys’ denim, twill and bottoms. “We usually draw inspiration from our childhood memories, combined with what we see everyday living in New York,” Husum says. Each season, the company scouts highend fabrics for on-trend designs that will maintain the quality they strive to achieve in each collection. While boys’ has been praised with an Earnie Award by retailers, Husum notes the brand’s development extends beyond boys’, recently acquiring a new designer to boost up the girls’ collection. Husum affirms that the brand is already seeing encouraging results in girls’ sales-wise. “We’re doing very well in our strong categories, and our customers are willing to try new categories with us,” he says. “They trust our attention to detail, so this year has been good, and we’re hoping for even better in 2017!” –E.B.

Limeapple Founder and Design Director Debbie Naren started the Calgary, Canada-based company in 2002 when her now college-age girls were tiny. “I had always wanted to do something that helped women and make a difference in their lives,” she says. “I work with a program to educate girls all over the world. If a girl is educated, her family’s life is better and her children tend to become educated. When a woman is educated, the effects are great.” As serious an endeavor as that is, it’s her company’s fun pieces bursting with colorful prints that make those philanthropic efforts possible. And it is those same pieces that have earned Limeapple its first Earnie Award for Best Tween Collection. “Our collection is always fun, sporty and feminine,” Naren says, noting one of her customers commented that the items look like pieces of art. “It’s meant to be bright, bold and colorful and we work very hard to make it affordable and give great value to the customer.” This year, customers responded to active jackets with ruffles, funky leggings, washable faux fur jackets and blankets. The company has surpassed its projected sales numbers thanks to a top-notch sales team and loyal retailers comprised of 800 stores in Canada and the U.S. This was also the year Naren started the program to implement her long-held dream to educate girls. “We all enjoy what we do,” she says of her team. “It doesn’t feel like work.” –K.Y.

Most Charitable: Rockin’ Baby Rockin’ Baby Founder and Chief Executive Officer Kathryn Wiley admits she was inspired by Toms Shoes Founder Blake Mycoskie. The one-for-one business model led Wiley to create Rockin’ Baby in 2011 with a mission that for every piece sold, another would be donated to charity. “The charitable work is what drives my passion,” says Wiley. “It’s not just a marketing position. Giving back is what drives Rockin’ Baby. If it’s not what drives us, then we’re lying to our customers.” To date, Wiley has worked with ChildFund International in Africa to donate products to children orphaned by the victims of Ebola and in the future plans to donate school uniforms to the children of Uganda. She’s even worked with ChildFund to sponsor a program working with three tailors in Uganda to create the Byella (“wrap me” in the Acholi language)

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Cooperative. Rockin’ Baby taught these tailors how to make the wraps and includes them in safe birth kits for moms, incentivizing them to get the crucial medical supervision they need. The culture to babywear is in Africa, but contrary to what you might expect, the textiles to make that custom a reality is lacking. “I never thought that they don’t have those beautiful textiles, but they don’t,” says Wiley. “We don’t want to just be giving how we think we should be giving. Rockin’ Baby wants to be ever tuned into how the world needs us to give.” As a child, Wiley knew she wanted to do something related to non-profit groups: “That’s how my heart is, but I have a business mind. The idea of combining the two? It’s the most beautiful thing for me to wake up and know that the more I sell, the more I can give.” –K.Y.

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Best Novelty Items: Little Giraffe Trish Moreno was in womenswear for 20 years when the recession hit in 2008, putting her business at risk. Along came Little Giraffe and its need for a president and CEO and Moreno jumped at the chance. “It had all the markings of a fit for me,” she says. Joining the company in 2009, Moreno says she set the brand on course, rededicated resources, established new distribution channels, expanded product offerings and “really listened to the team and the customers.” Fast-forward to 2016 and Little Giraffe has scored its second Earnie win, this time for Best Novelty Items. This year, Little Giraffe introduced products geared toward the lifestyle of the Millennial family. “We introduced a lot of grab-and-go products that are multifunctional,” says Moreno. “Our luxuriously soft fringed Turkish towel works seamlessly as a car seat blanket, nursing cover, stroller shade, scarf, sarong and towel. You can bunch it up in your diaper bag, and it won’t wrinkle and will get even softer with every wash. We also introduced our Bliss collection of cozy oversized plush blankets including our first-ever round blanket in modern geometric prints for picnic, park, play, cuddle and tummy time. Our new products multi-task like we do.” The brand is also investing in increasing the brand equity so that Little Giraffe resonates at both brick-and-mortar and online channels. Moreno points to Little Giraffe’s consistent retail following and, despite market shifts, the line’s key accounts have grown stronger and the audience is constantly renewing itself. “Thankfully,” says Moreno, “because new babies are born every day!” –K.Y.

Best International Brand: Mayoral Standing by its slogan “making friends,” Mayoral builds its offerings around “the complete look” (from apparel and footwear to accessories and novelty items) in order to please a wide audience. Spanning sizes newborn to 16 years, the Spanish brand participates in more than 60 international trade fairs worldwide to promote two annual collections: Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer. “All of our products offer an excellent combination of value, quality and European trendy style,” says Adam Herman, director of operations for Mayoral’s U.S. division. This year, the brand implemented new equipment that will double the current production capacity, processing up to 40 million garments per year, or 1,600 orders per day. For its girls Spring ’ 17 lineup, Mayoral launched “Pop Sugar,” a daring trend where aqua green blends with natural white. Distressed jeans and trend-right tops covered in brushstroke effects were other highlights of the new offerings. Then, for boys, the new collection called “Reflection” includes a similar aqua green color palette, but mixed with a very masculine neutral hue dubbed “gypsum.” The collection includes lots of photographic treatments across fleeces, T-shirts, pullovers, polos and shorts—some of them reversible for twice the fun. –E.B.

CMY

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2016

Best Outerwear: Mack & Co. Mack & Co.’s line of fleece and microfiber coats get plenty of feedback from the little ones, according to Founder and Creative Director Gerri Mack. “We have to sell to two people,” she explains. “We tell the store, ‘Hey, you can sell this,’ that sells to the mom who ultimately sells it to the daughter. So it’s almost like you have to have success three times. ” Mack founded Mack & Co. along with partner Penny Crivelli in 2006 to bring colorful and design-driven outerwear to the market. Mack, who operates out of Minneapolis, Minn., saw a dearth of technologically-driven washable outerwear with contemporary design details. Mack & Co.’s outerwear cuts are sophisticated, the fabric is high-end and often sourced from Italy. The design details are pure catnip for fashionable tots. The line did well this year, according to Mack, because it sticks to its original designs. Secondly, the line is less adversely affected by the warmer weather than its competition. Sales this year were up, says Mack, and the company continues to grow, including expansion into private label. –K.Y.

Best Hosiery: BabyLegs by United Legwear & Apparel Co. This is the sixth time BabyLegs, known for its beloved baby leg warmers, has won the Earnie for Best Hosiery and it’s safe to say the collection has hit its stride. According to Isaac E. Ash, president of the collection’s parent company United Legwear & Apparel Co., who’s been making legwear for all ages since he started the company in 1998, the line’s success can partly be attributed to increasing the offering to retailers by employing online ordering through its wholesale portal. “Buys can be placed from the cash wrap or the couch if it’s hard to find time to visit our showrooms,” he says. At the consumer level, parents’ appetite for top-quality basics has been driving sales. To that end, BabyLegs neutrals like gray and oatmeal have been outperforming stylized, graphic-driven designs. The company also produced an adorable line of floral and polka dot tights. It’s clear the 100-percent latex-free legwarmers are a mainstay in keeping babies warm. –K.Y

Best Showrooms:

Thank you for your support!

Best Licensed Collection: Carter’s

1-800-4-RASHTI www.rashtiandrashti.com

understand what they are going through. (That, and good old fashioned people skills.) “I think we are friendly,” she says. “We try to welcome everybody. It doesn’t matter if you’re a big store or a small store; you’re always welcome in the showroom.” Sandra Martinez, cofounder of InPlay, says buyers turn to her for the product: “We try to work with lines that we feel have long-term success in the marketplace, lines with a reachable price point that can succeed in multiple markets.” –E.B., K.Y.

We are celebrating the showrooms and reps across the country who, with their mighty pens, help make the magic happen at retail. Retailers and manufacturers voted for the following showrooms in five different regions across the country as deserving an Earnie award for their tireless efforts: Ali’s Market in New York, Summer Place in Atlanta, Tree-House of Fashion in Chicago, Cultivated Kids in Dallas and InPlay in Los Angeles. Allison Moroze, owner of Ali’s Market, notes that retailers seem to appreciate her sense of fair play—she will never court a line from another showroom, for instance—and retail expertise. “We’re not just order-takers,” she says, noting she often steers buyers toward and away from merchandise based on her knowledge of the market. Lisa Tompkins, owner of traveling showroom TreeHouse of Fashion, says what sets her firm apart is ease: “If you can’t make it to a show, our online tools are the next best thing offering, accessibility, convenience and visual aids.” Summer Place owner Brittany Harrell implemented Brandwise two years ago so all ordering is done on iPads and Bluetooth scanners. “Not only is it quicker, but it is more accurate,” she says. “The other thing customers and manufacturers constantly tell me is that we are very very responsive.” Jill Griffith, owner of Cultivated Kids, says its important to be patient and work with stores and

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Best Baby Gear: Ju-Ju-Be Launched in 2005 with the tagline “smart bags for smart people,” Co-Founders Kristin Hunziker and Joe Croft launched a line of cool, tech-driven diaper bags disguised in fashionforward designs. “Kristin, in particular, is a fashion maven,” Croft remarks. “She’s got a stack of fashion magazines about six feet high!” This year, the company’s new Onyx collection— diaper bags with a sleek appearance and trendy patterns—sold well. A new fabrication called Chrome was also introduced to bags to capitalize on today’s popular unisex “street” look. The brand also took note of the market’s baby-wearing trend, and introduced more backpack style designs compatible with carriers. Hunziker and Croft agree they owe their success to a supportive community that started 10 years ago with an online group: “We connect with the customers and allow them to connect with us,” Croft says. Fans discuss Ju-Ju-Be’s new products, but also topics ranging from moms trying to conceive to balancing work and motherhood. Hunziker affirms: “We have a massive social following, and we really credit it to the strength of the company.” –E.B.

Editors’ Pick: Blu & Blue Classic denim looks just got a facelift thanks to the new brand Blu & Blue. Providing a fresh take on traditional American clothing, the brand uses “butter soft” denims, made with special softeners. A heritage brand born from a family with 35 years of fashion industry experience, Blu & Blue has a world-class team behind its designs. Debuted in Spring ’16, Blu & Blue uses tasteful details like peter-pan collars, bows, pin tucks, chambray and pleats with premium tencel. To ensure the best quality, all fabrics are hand-selected from the best mills in Italy, Turkey, Japan and China. For Spring ’17, the brand used eyelet embroideries and embellishments on sky blue chambrays and soft tencel fabrics for an elegant, versatile collection. Within nine months of launching, Blu & Blue expanded to more than 45 stores across the globe, including the U.S., Canada, Puerto Rico, Taiwan, Kuwait and China. Founder Aaina Jain is thrilled with the brand’s progress: “I would say it’s been a pretty great start!” –E.B.

2016

NEW RESOURCES

children’s world

Classic florals share the season with quirky characters and paradise-inspired prints.

Alouette Comfortable enough for a breezy bike ride through Champs-Élysées yet posh enough for a special occasion, Alouette presents enchanting femininity with Parisian flair. The Spring ’17 collection charmed buyers at Playtime New York in July with pastel florals, flouncy ruffles and sweet bows. “Alouette is a beautiful merge of versatile, modern and classic designs,” offers Co-Founder Regina Newsome, noting the brand’s inspiration spans fashion, childhood memories, travel, nature and art. All garments are made from natural fabrics, adorned with floral buttons, delicate lace and smocking. Available in sizes 3M to 8, wholesale prices range from $26 to $34.

Ir regular Kids Eccentric footwear brand Irregular Choice has launched a children’s collection of footwear for Spring ’17, sporting the same pizazz as the whimsy adult footwear line. The brand debuted 12 playful styles for Spring ’17 that demonstrate the brand’s signature aesthetic of cute characters, loud prints and quirky embellishments in a colorful palette. Floral fabrics are particularly infused into the new collection, bedecked with bows, bunny ears, angel wings and cherries along with popular Irregular Choice appliqués like Abbey the crab, Frenzie the flamingo and Misty the unicorn. Available in sizes 10.5 to 3, wholesale prices range from $60 to $65.

Join Us in February Children’s World at February Atlanta Apparel NEW DATE PATTERN SHOWROOMS

February 1–5, 2017 TEMPORARIES

February 1–4, 2017 Onia New York City-based swim and resortwear brand Onia is diving into kids’ swimwear for Resort ’17. For the first time, the brand is launching girls’ swim to be sold at Net-a-Porter, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and other upscale retailers. In addition, Onia has released a boys’ collection of tropical-inspired swim trunks to be sold exclusively at Barneys New York. Both collections remains consistent with Onia’s brand DNA, offering high-quality, durable fabrics in bold designs. The girls’ line offers several one-piece silhouettes, full of leafy prints and juicy pineapples. All girls’ styles wholesale at $60, having the ability to match back to the women’s “Kelly” one-piece, while the exclusive boys’ wholesales for $48 and matches back to the men’s “Charles” style. Sizes range from 2 to 12 in girls’ and 2 to 14 in boys’.

NEW NIGHT! Make plans to join us for the: Children’s World Fashion Show Wednesday, February 1, 2017 6:15 p.m.

800.ATL.MART

TOP IM AGE: 7 For All Mankind BOT TO M IM AG E: Chaser Kids

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HIT THE STREETS TO SEE WHAT THE COOL KIDS ARE WEARING FOR SPRING ’17 – NO PAPARAZZI, PLEASE. P H O T O G R A P H Y BY Z O E B E R KO V I C ST Y L I N G BY M A R I A H WA L K E R

Ulises AGE: 7

Hailing from the Bronx, Ulises claims it is his long hair that gives him strength. When heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not modeling natty clothing on the streets of Manhattan, he can be found drawing pictures, rocking out to Twenty One Pilots, cracking jokes or simply kicking back with his pet turtle Marcus.

E-Land Kids blazer, button-down vest and shorts, Barque vest, Appaman bow tie, New Balance shoes.

Madison AGE: 5

This Jersey girl was quick to take to the limelight as a talented model who makes videos of herself singing tunes by Adele, Beyoncé and Michael Jackson. Madison is also an expert when it comes to trying out new toys. As for her awesome locks, she’s the only redhead in her immediate family—a trait handed down from generations ago.

Halabaloo dress, Cape Clogs clogs.

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Journey AGE: 6

With his signature swooping hairstyle, Journey cuts a fashionable swath whenever he ventures from his home in Central New Jersey. The musician-inthe-making says he loves playing piano along with listening to his favorite track â&#x20AC;&#x153;House of Goldâ&#x20AC;? by Twenty One Pilots. His best buddy is his dog Chewie, appropriately dubbed for his resemblance to Chewbacca from Star Wars.

Imps & Elfs jacket, Sierra Julian pink blazer, Art & Eden T-shirt, Kapital K shorts, Bearpaw shoes, Winkniks sunglasses.

Peyton AG E : 6

Residing in the suburbs of Philadelphia, Peyton channels the energy of the inner city to inspire her flippin’ fantastic life. From tumbling at gymnastics class to practicing drama (both at home and on stage), this little model has already hit her groove. For a pick-me-up during the day, Peyton likes to jam out to her favorite Kidz Bop song “Try Everything.” Another fun fact? She’s a lefty.

Imps & Elfs jacket, Zoe Ltd. vest (worn over dress), Mademoiselle à SoHo dress.

Reagan & Savannah AGE: 6

Reagan and Savannah may be twins born one minute apart but their interests could not be more dissimilar. When she’s not brushing up on her gymnastic skills, Reagan’s learning to bake or perfecting her acting. Savannah practices her plié in ballet, loves discovering and creating art and is beginning to study Mandarin. The jet-setting girls have lived in Atlanta, Seattle and Washington, D.C., and now call Westchester, N.Y., home.

From left to right: Kapital K top, Nadadelazos sweatshirt, Sierra Julian shorts, Native shoes; Ü blubyblu sweatshirt, Appaman shirt, Sierra Julian skirt, Native shoes.

Mae AG E : 9

This Brooklyn hipster has more than fashion on her mind. Mae may be a model, but she’s also a dancer, ballerina, gymnast, swimmer, skier, biker, artist and chess player. (Is there anything this girl can’t do?) Be sure to check out the multitalented bella as she dances “The Brooklyn Nutcracker” this month.

Soft Gallery sweater, Jolie Enfants dress, Mack & Co socks, Cape Clogs shoes, Winkniks sunglasses, Le Big necklace.

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Gavin AG E : 9

Whether he’s taking a spin on a skimboard or doing a hard flip on a skateboard, Gavin likes to turn up the volume with Kiss, Def Leppard and Disturbed. Although he’s an only child, Gavin enjoys watching The Loud House about a boy with 10 sisters.

Appaman top, Munster jeans, model’s own bandana.

Margot AG E : 7

This Brooklynite loves to play the piano and the electric guitar and is never happier than when sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s writing her own songs. Besides drawing inspiration from her two music idols, Katy Perry and Taylor Swift, Margot still finds time to sharpen her impressive tennis skills. Not to mention, sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fluent in French.

Kwadusa jacket, Chaser Kids shirt, Puma pants, Native sneakers, modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own skateboard.

Wolfe AG E : 9

Wolfe splits his time between Roosevelt Island, N.Y. and Aldie, Va., and if that werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t enough, he also loves reading, drawing, ice skating, soccer, singing, dancing, acting and, of course, hanging out with friends. He has three older sisters and a little brother he describes as fluffy and cute like his pet dog, King.

K-Way jacket, Rose Pistol buttondown (tied around waist), Nukutavake pants, Joy Joy watch, Happy Socks socks, Dr. Martens boots.

UP CLOSE

On the Bright Side Platypus Australia celebrates 20 years of swimwear.

HIS HAS BEEN a memorable year for Platypus Australia, celebrating its 20th birthday and having recently earned the KidStyleFile Australia Best Swimwear Award in all three age categories (0 to 3, 4 to 7 and 8 to 12). Reaching this point is a milestone for Founder and Designer Karen Wheen, who started the Sydney-based company with her friend Anne Flugstad Clarke (whom she bought out in 2007). The inspiration for the brand came when Wheen and her partner, both new moms, discovered for the first time that applying sunscreen to their on-the-move toddlers was like threading a needle. Enter Platypus Australia. The colorful line of UV-protective UPF 50+ swimwear (the highest rating bestowed by the strict criteria of the Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency) renders the tortuous sunscreen ritual unnecessary. “I was in the rag trade as a fashion forecaster in department stores and product development at various brands, so I thought, ‘why don’t we try sunprotective clothing?’” Wheen remarks. Today, Platypus Australia operates a global business with warehouses in the U.S., the U.K. and Hong Kong and caters to major international retailers like John Lewis, House of Fraser, Isetan and Takashimaya. “We’ve maintained our customers, and we’re growing and expanding,” says Wheen. “We’ve been successful in the last year identifying and securing the right people in the right regions. It’s very hard to do this long distance.” Although she travels extensively for business, Wheen says

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these strategic partnerships around the world have allowed her to produce more categories—she added a baby collection in 2009 which is one of the company’s fastest-growing categories—and the core collection expands every year. (Because of its seasonal nature, which caters to summers around the globe, Platypus Australia produces only one collection per year.) For Summer ’17, the company unveiled its most diverse range to date, including cropped rashguards, capped-sleeve one-pieces and flounce bikinis for girls, along with a T-shirt rashguard with a pocket for boys. The line also features items for swimming lessons and pool training: high-neck athletic-style bikinis, keyhole one-pieces, printed jammers and athleisure leggings. “You can edit the collection in a number of ways depending on your market,” Wheen points out. “In the U.S. and Australia, buyers tend to focus on fashion pieces, but in Asia, buyers place emphasis on maximum coverage.” Wheen says she is always looking to develop new product, including a partnership with Neoprene as well as printed boardshort fabric, 58 percent of which is made from recycled plastic bottles: “We’re always looking at new things and product extensions. We talk to consumers and retailers, and we incorporate that feedback into the next season to make a better product.” When asked what she enjoys the most about her job, Wheen says it’s all about watching the product in action. “I love seeing all the kids enjoying the swimwear, feeling good and knowing that they’re not only covered but also confident in how they look too,” she says. “It’s lovely to see that.”–Kristin Young

continued from page 13

Do you manufacture in the U.S. or overseas? We used to be completely domestic up until about 10 years ago. There were sewing shops in San Francisco and in Oakland, but now all of the sewing shops are high tech offices. We never were able to get the beautiful hand-done beadwork and embroideries [in California]. We’d send the bodices to Vietnam for the handwork. Then we started producing the whole garment there. Everything now is produced in China or in Asia. All our fabric too. We don’t buy our fabric off the shelf. We design our own prints. Fabric development is a huge part of our work.

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That sounds like a very creative process and authentic. Is that true? Very true. Sometimes we do our own digital prints. We wanted to do this rose print last year that looked like clumps of beautiful red roses. I went to the flower market to buy red roses. We set up our photo studio with the camera suspended vertically. It’s just unbelievable how hard it is to put a little pin through the rose stabilizing it and photograph the roses before they start turning another shade. It would have been easier to buy a print, but there we were pouring over this bed of red roses.

February 12 > 14, 2017 Metropolitan Pavilion & The Altman 135 W 18th St, New York

180 collections

What is the most valuable lesson you have learned in the apparel business? You have to understand how important your relationships are with your customers. Your customer service team and your salespeople have to work closely with them to understand and address their needs. Also, what is selling at retail is so important to learn as a designer. Once you’ve shipped [an item] to the store you have to know if it’s checking. That gives you information on whether you should change direction or stay on the same path. We’ve been doing this the last couple of seasons. We call [ the stores] and talk to them, and it’s great. You learn so much.

illustration Manon Debaye

Clothing / Accessories / Shoes Gifts / Toys / Home

How many retailers currently stock Biscotti and Kate Mack? About 1,000 worldwide. We have a huge business in Europe— the U.K., Ireland, Germany, Belgium, Holland, Spain, Italy, Japan and the Middle East.

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What are the challenges now at retail? There have been a lot of specialty stores that have not been able to keep their businesses going. The ones that have been able to deal with this new retail landscape—between the Internet and brick-and-mortar and increased competition—have figured out at least how to stay the course. You

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PA R I S 21st edition JANUARY 28 > 30, 2017

NEW YORK 14th edition FEBRUARY 12 > 14, 2017

TOKYO 16th edition FEBRUARY 21 > 23, 2017

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CHILDREN’S & MATERNITY TRADE SHOWS WORLDWIDE!

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have to be pretty nimble and respond to this retail reality. The challenges in retail are different in the U.S. than they are in the U.K. and Holland. Over there, the specialty store business is stronger than it is here. They don’t have as many department stores. It’s not that there are more specialty stores there, it’s just that when they place an order, they place a solid, good-sized order.

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Have you conducted business in Europe since the beginning? No, no. I think it was in 2008 when the market fell apart here. We needed to find another avenue of sales. Then our prices also looked really good because the currency was in a different place. Now our prices are not that much better than the European prices over there, especially in the U.K. with Brexit. My husband Bob is responsible for the perseverance and the vision of Europe. He maintains everything in Europe. We have six different banks he has to deal with, for instance. Are you planning to do more international expansion plans? Sure. We are working on Asia a little bit, trying to build that up. We have some stores in Japan and South Korea that carry us and we’d like to build that area more. We’re always trying to think of new people to sell to because we think our product will do well in a lot of places.

mackandco.com

Is the direct-to-consumer trend affecting you? The world is changing so fast right now. Department stores are doing a beautiful job at times, I think, on their private label programs. They have a design staff that can knock things off lickety split and provide a pretty good price to the customer. It puts the specialty stores and the smaller department stores at a certain amount of disadvantage. I don’t know what will happen, but we’ll figure it out. Inspiring fresh design has always been the key to our success. We’re diversified which is great. Yes, we do business with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and Amazon, but it isn’t the only thing we do. Otherwise, I think we would have a really hard time. You mentioned the Lait-ETTE line. When did that come about, and how is it performing? We started it a couple of seasons ago. We had a soft release with a couple of our salespeople. It was the first season we shipped it, and I thought it was just the most adorable thing we’d ever done. It is a modern, cleaner look, made from soft bamboo fabric, and it can be for a boy or girl. We weren’t sure we were on the right track since we failed to get immediate feedback from market. A few months later though, we heard from our sales people that the collection flew out immediately

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25 SHOWS

I LOVE SEEING HOW ONE IDEA CAN TURN INTO A CONTAINER OF DRESSES PULLING OUT OF OUR LOADING DOCKS.

12 YEARS IN BUSINESS

#1 CHILDREN’S FASHION EVENT

and that the stores wanted more. So, we’ve got a new LaitETTE collection in the works for Winter 2017. What is your long-term vision for the company? We always come up with new ideas to develop. We’re thinking about getting into the boy’s market again. We tried it about 25 years ago. I hope that in years to come Biscotti and Kate Mack continue to be the leader in design for kids. A lot of [manufacturers] take on licensing. I have no real interest in that but we’d love for the business to take on a totally different division. Personally, I would love to design a young women’s contemporary and designer collection. I know we could do a great job on that.

FEBRUARY 20-22, 2017

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What does philanthropy mean to Biscotti? We donate clothes and are helping to support the Oakland school system. It isn’t something that we advertise or incorporate in our presentations. We do it when we have a warehouse sale or overstock. We’ve been doing that for years, quietly. I know there are other companies that use philanthropy as part of how they present themselves to the world, but we haven’t done that really. What do you love most about your job? I love working with my design team, coming up with new ideas, brainstorming on how to execute them. I love seeing how one little idea can turn into a container full of dresses pulling out of our loading docks. It’s so exciting. And, the last, but not least, thing I love is when a new untested idea sells out at retail. I love the attitude, the culture, and the dedication of our team that keeps this business moving forward.

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What’s the secret to your longevity? In Oakland, there aren’t a lot of other manufacturers around. There’s Levi’s, Gap, Janie and Jack and some other retailers and manufacturers [in San Francisco]. But we’re pretty much the only private childrenswear company left around here. I think we’re still here because we’re passionate about what we do. I love the process and I love my team. The days fly by. I’m never bored. And I don’t think anybody that works for me, at least at the creative end, is ever bored either. •

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PARTING SHOT

About Face The poetic and artsy vision of women’s fashion label JC de Castelbajac Paris unites with the simple yet sophisticated designs of children’s apparel brand Wolf & Rita in an intriguing capsule collection for Spring ’17. Available in sizes 3 months to 10 years, the two fashion worlds have fused to create a fantastical realm of kooky characters mingling on modern cuts. According to Sónia Rocha, co-founder of Wolf & Rita, marrying her brand’s unique silhouettes to JC de Castelbajac’s world of whimsy visual elements just felt right: “We both wanted to work from the dreamlike characters that were so well imagined by the brand and use it tocreate a capsule collection for parents and children who seek simple, accessible and quality clothing with a creative design.” The capsule collection wholesales from $17 to $170.—Emily Beckman

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S PRING â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;1 7 P R E VI EW