Footwear Plus Magazine | August 2022

AUGUST 2022 VOL 32 • ISSUE 7 • $10

22_08_FW_COVER_TM_R1.indd 1

7/22/22 4:55 PM

FOP AUG 2022.indd 2

7/21/22 1:42 PM

FOP AUG 2022.indd 1

7/21/22 1:45 PM

AUGUST 2022 F E AT U R E S 10 Brothers in Arms Joe and Daniel Safdeye, managers of SCL Footwear, on seizing the opportunities that have doubled the business since the pandemic

By Greg Dutter 16 Welcome Home John Daher, owner, Shoebox and Co., returns to his retail roots with a fresh concept in picturesque Maine

By Greg Dutter 20 Trend Spotting Spring/Summer ’23 preview

By Ann Loynd Burton

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Kathy Passero Editor at Large Ann Loynd Burton Fashion Editor Bernadette Starzee Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION

36 Dream Weaver Crochet, cutouts and embroidered details bring arts and crafts class to seasons in the sun

By Ann Loynd Burton

Noelle Heffernan Senior Account Manager

4 Editor’s Note

36

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

34 Mute Button Guy styles click with subtle shades

By Ann Loynd Burton

D E PA RT M E N T S PA G E

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher

6 This Just In: Paris 8 Scene & Heard 32 A Note to My Younger Self 46 Shoe Salon 48 Last Shot

Belinda Pina Director of Sales

Laurie Guptil Production Manager Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO OFFICES

On cover: Aetrex thong wedges with multi-colored woven uppers

Woven wicker loafers by Aerosoles

Photography and styling by Alexander Carr; fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; model: Mary/Q Management; makeup: Maya Ling Feero; production/stylist assistant: Eileen Viglietta. Special thanks to Mused for their one-of-a-kind punk couture pieces.

ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com CIRCULATION

One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 circulation@9Threads.com

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.

2 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_TOC_04_GD_TM_R1.indd 2

7/22/22 12:41 PM

Propét Ultra

Ultra Comfort, Ultra Performance.

THE IR SHOW ATLANTA SHOE MARKET

August 2nd – 4th August 13th – 15th propetfootwear.com

Propet August 2022 Footwear Plus Full Page.indd 1 FOP AUG 2022.indd 3

7/18/22 1:50 PM 7/21/22 1:46 PM

E D I TOR’S NOT E

Push It Real Good

My Morning Mecca IT STARTED IN the fall of 2020. While working remotely in my Upper West Side apartment, I took a browsing break one afternoon and stumbled upon an article about ways to stay fit during a pandemic. One of the avoid-the-gym tips was to do push-ups. They burn calories, protect the shoulders and lower back from injuries, improve balance and posture, and enhance performance in athletic activities. They can also be done in a living room, no instructors or $1,000-plus Peloton bikes required. Intrigued and curious about just how many I could do, I knelt onto my carpet and began. One, two…holy $#!*, that was hard!

Suffice to say, I didn’t even crack 10 push-ups that day. Worse, a drill sergeant would have said few, if any, were Marine caliber. In my defense, I had broken my collarbone a year earlier and my weighttraining exercises had ceased that April when my gym shut down. The truth: I was humbled—and weak. I vowed, while gasping for breath on my carpet, to push forward. Every morning since, I have knelt on carpets in my apartment, at my in-laws’ condo, in hotels, wherever I might be, to do my push-ups. I have increased the amount considerably (Yay, me!) and have, since Jan. 1, 2022, settled on a number broken out over five sets. It’s no longer about increasing the daily total. My earlymorning routine is not even about the physical benefits of push-ups (though they are real). It’s more about a commitment to start each day by facing a challenge and reaching a goal. (Unexpected perk: It’s also bonding time with my cat, Romeo, who has taken it upon himself to do carpet-tugging exercises alongside me without fail.)

My Morning Mecca, as I’ve come to call it, helps me face a world rife with strife and calamities. Every day, it seems, something next-level awful happens. Putin’s slaughter of innocent Ukrainians, a deadly earthquake somewhere, mass shootings across the U.S., etc., etc. It’s soul-draining.

Hiding under the covers seems like a safer alternative. But that’s no way to live. The very least I can do is start my day by getting through these push-ups. It gets my heart pumping. And it puts in perspective the far greater challenges so many others have to overcome each day just to survive. These push-ups are nothing in comparison.

Survival in our industry continues to be a daily struggle, as well.

The hits keep coming. Now record inflation is delivering body blows, compounding an ongoing flurry of supply-chain jabs and the threat of a knockout punch from a virus that’s one mutation away from wreaking

worldwide havoc again. Forgive anyone who feels punch drunk. Not knowing where to turn or what to expect is dizzying, and a breather seems unlikely. We’ve been pushed up against the ropes. Now we’re just trying to hang on.

But hope is not lost. Our industry has an ace up its sleeve. We can always play the “world’s not going barefoot” card. The U.S. generated a record $100 billion-plus in footwear sales last year, and while that figure might dip this year, sales won’t disappear. Also encouraging: A recent back-to-school survey predicts consumer spending will jump 5.8 percent to a record $34.4 billion. In-store shopping is expected to account for more than half. Loads of opportunities exist. Big ducks are still on the pond.

It’s why Joe and Daniel Safdeye, managers of SCL Footwear and subjects of our Q&A (p. 10), are bullish about growth potential this year and beyond. The Safdeyes have doubled the size of their 15-year-old company over the past two years. The fourth-generation shoe industry brothers believe the recent market disruption created a window of opportunity never seen before in their decades working in this business. Where there was once little room for smaller companies to grab a sliver of shelf space, the door has burst open. The Safdeyes are seizing the day. They are pushing forward with brand extensions and new launches aimed at the entry-level, comfort lifestyle market. Their spirited optimism and Brooklyn-brusque determination is inspiring.

Equally uplifting is our story (p. 16) about John Daher, owner of the recently opened Shoebox and Co. in Kennebunk, ME. Daher, who spent the past 25 years or so as the product guru at Clarks Companies N.A. followed by stints at Cobb Hill, Drydock Footwear and Rockport, has returned to his retailer roots with a curated “art gallery” concept located in a picturesque resort town. Once the purveyor of a successful namesake five-store, sit-and-fit chain in Massachusetts, Daher is reembracing his love of being a shoe retailer. Daher doesn’t need to do this. He wants to do it. It’s on his terms, which center on an eclectic array of 30 or so comfort brands. But rather than go with top-sellers found in many outlets, Daher is relying on his experienced eye for product to unearth hidden gems in those collections.

So far, Shoebox and Co. is rocking. In fact, Daher has plans to expand the concept to other resort areas. One of his goals is to mentor young talent, guiding newcomers into what he believes can be long and prosperous shoe industry careers. Now that’s something we should all push hard for!

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

4 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_ED_NOTE_02GD.indd 4

7/21/22 3:34 PM

Footwear_Plus_ECCO_Ad_August.indd FOP AUG 2022.indd 5 1

7/15/22 7/21/22 11:57 1:47 PM AM

THIS JUST IN

Eclectic Avenue A potpourri of shoe styles sprinkled the streets of Paris during Men’s Fashion Week. Photography by Melodie Jeng

6 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_THIS_JUST_IN_02.indd 6

7/20/22 6:09 PM

.

Come see all SCL Footwear brands at the Atlanta Show on August 13th-August 15th 2022.

Room 111, Room 112, and Ballroom Booth 213.

FOP AUG 2022.indd 7

7/21/22 1:48 PM

SCENE & HEARD

Evoco Wants the Industry to Come Clean Tola Oseni

THE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY has been very dirty, environmentally speaking. And while overall awareness of the need to clean up its act has increased significantly the past few years—and many sustainable initiatives hold great promise—there’s still tremendous room for improvement and clarity.

Enter Evoco, a components company founded in 2017 that’s on a mission to make genuine sustainable change happen. CEO Jason Robinson says the Toronto company’s efforts represent a step change in comparison to many other green initiatives, particularly the use of recycled plastics that fail to offer a substantial benefit in carbon emission reduction. In contrast, Evoco is all about closing the loop on unsustainable goods—for good.

“We use innovative technology to replace conventional petrochemical-derived materials by harnessing the power of nature to create high-performance, sustainable products,” Robinson explains. “We take great care to minimize CO2 emissions by using the carbon naturally stored in plants and not what’s stored in petroleum from 250 million years ago. We avoid the use of artificial, harmful production chemicals, such as tin-based catalysts and solvent-based blowing agents, which are standard in the industry today. Our products have enduring performance, designed to last through longer user cycles. And, at the end of a product’s life, our foams will biodegrade, returning to the earth to start the cycle again.”

Evoco has aimed its eco-friendly efforts at insoles first. Namely, its FATES brand, an eco-foam insole made with up to 80 percent of sustainably sourced plants that cuts partners’ products carbon emissions by up to 70 percent. Customers include Vans, Timberland, Keen and Kodiak.

“Consumers favor comfort, quality and the overall performance of products, and FATES over delivers on all these aspects,” Robinson says. In addition, though, he says consumers are concerned about sustainability, and it behooves brands Jason Robinson, CEO, Evoco to meet those expectations. “People understand that even something as simple as buying a pair of shoes can have a negative impact on the environment,” he says. “Collectively, we need to take accountability to challenge the status quo, and realize that we are witnessing the beginning of a next gen material revolution.”

Speaking of, Evoco will expand into other components soon. “We’re expanding our FATES material to create midsoles, outsoles (TPU) and, most excitingly, a plant-based leather alternative (PBLA) for uppers,” Robinson says. “Our PBLA will be 85-90 percent plant-based and free of toxic catalysts.

There’s opportunity in other industries, as well.” Evoco recently opened its own plant in Vietnam and plans to expand production capabilities in Europe and the U.S. to meet the expected demand.

In the meantime, there’s cleaning up to be done in the shoe biz. “The fashion industry alone contributes 10 percent of global emissions,” Robinson says, adding that as the world’s population grows, the need to find cleaner alternative increases. “As more people buy more clothes, that increases our global carbon footprint. But it’s also an opportunity for more sustainable materials to produce them.” Robinson adds, “We’re just getting started! Evoco will continue to push boundaries through our innovation pipeline to better support the footwear industry and significantly reduce its carbon impact.”

And the Winner is…

TOLA OSENI! THE New York native is the first winner of the Clarks Originals Wallabee design challenge in partnership with One School, a free portfolio school for Black creatives. Oseni’s design was chosen from a field of 60 One School graduates who were challenged to share their perspective on the brand’s iconic style combined with a celebration of New York City.

Oseni tapped into her “love-hate relationship” with Gotham.

“I designed this Wallabee to celebrate the duality of New York and the eclectic soundtrack of the city,” she says. “This way, every step a person takes with the shoes is just as loud, proud and vibrant as the city-dwellers themselves.”

Tara McRae, CMO of Clarks, says the One School design competition exceeded all expectations. “Our goal was to support the incredible work of the One School and the unique opportunity it provides as a free portfolio program,” she says.

“Additionally, we were thrilled to get to work with such a talented group of students and to see their perspectives on the classic Clarks Wallabee.” Clarks has already announced a second iteration of the challenge for this fall.

In addition to introducing fresh takes on Clarks classics, McRae says the partnership is in step with the brand’s broader objective to connect its rich history with its passionate fan base.

“We dedicated this past season to telling the story of Clarks New York and how the Wallabee became hip hop’s shoe of choice with a documentary short directed by Set Free Richardson,” she says, noting the design challenge coincided with the film’s release. “In selecting the winning design, we looked for something that encapsulated the many elements of New York and represented the culture of the city and its inhabitants. Oseni’s bold design and vibrant color selection accomplished just that.

It is a visual celebration of the city’s five boroughs through colorful motifs and screen-printed slogans.”

Orseni’s design (SRP: $170) is being sold worldwide on ClarksUSA.com and at select retail partners. A contribution from the proceeds goes to further her education and career.

In addition, Clarks sponsored two scholarships for students to attend One’s School’s recent spring semester.

8 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_SCENE_AND_HEARD_03_GD_TM.indd 8

7/21/22 2:06 PM

FOP AUG 2022.indd 9

7/21/22 1:51 PM

Q&A

BY GREG

DUTTER

BROTHERS IN ARMS

J o e a n d D a n i e l S a f d e y e , m a n a g e r s o f S C L F o o t w e a r, o n s e i z i n g t h e o p p o r t u n i t i e s t h a t have helped double the business since the pandemic.

THE SAFDEYE BROTHERS, fourth generation shoe industry lifers, had been waiting all their lives for this moment. Not a pandemic, mind you, but a window of disruption that could enable a small, nimble company like SCL Footwear (makers of Harborsides and licensors of Goodyear, NASA, Daisy Fuentes, Outdoor Life, Mario Lopez, Bisou-Bisou and Nanette Lepore) to strike. And that’s exactly what the brother have done, beginning in mid 2020, by adding new licenses (Mario Lopez, Outdoor Life and Nanette Lepore), creating a Goodyear Racing offshoot brand and expanding the brands within the existing portfolio.

When a lot of larger companies pulled back or pulled the plug entirely amid the shock and awe of the pandemic, SCL Footwear has stepped into the breach—and has doubled in size in the process.

It started by simply picking up the phone. “Some companies were taking days, if at all, to return calls,” says Joe Safdeye, executive vice president.

“Whereas we’d pick up on the second ring. As such, we were able to secure some good business during that time. It was exciting for us.”

The Safdeye brothers, who encamped to Joe’s house along the Jersey Shore in the early months of the pandemic, have stayed busy ever since plotting moves. The duo has also acted like ports in the storm. Plenty of people have been in panic mode, especially early on, as a lot of companies stopped operating at full capacity while others went under due to cash flow and inventory issues. A few SCL Footwear employees freaked out, too. Joe recalls the day his father, Sam and CEO of SCL Footwear, called and was depressed about how the world seemed to have shifted into the Upside Down a la Stranger Things. “He then asked why I seemed excited, and I told him I’d been waiting my whole life for opportunities like this to get market share,” Joe says. “When has there ever been an opportunity like this where we could be aggressive and score because other companies were cutting back or shutting down. These are the moments in time that can make companies.”

The Safdeyes were bullish because of their ability to act quick. Joe uses the analogy of 18-wheeler-sized companies like Nike and Skechers getting flats in all their tires, all at once, whereas SCL Footwear, cruising in an economy car, needed only to replace four flats. “Who the hell do you think would get back on the road quicker?” Joe says. “We’re small,

Joe and Daniel Safdeye

but we can move quick. We saw the opportunities, acted aggressively and grabbed market share.”

The Safdeye brothers relied on their years of experience and deep family ties in the industry to adapt quickly amid the new normal. SCL Footwear has strong factory connections in Asia, for starters. The company has continued to make and deliver goods without any major hiccups. The brothers also doubled down on their overall shoemaking philosophy, which starts and ends with delivering above and beyond the expected. That approach has become even more noticeable as many companies have cut back on quality as a way to control costs. “A lot of people in this

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_Q_A_02_TM_GD.indd 10

7/21/22 3:21 PM

FOP AUG 2022.indd 11 ASM-Spring-2023_FootwearPlus-FINAL.indd 1

7/21/22 4/28/22 1:52 3:47 PM PM

Q&A

business like to cut corners,” says Daniel Safdeye, vice president. “That can involve using unexpected (think lesser) materials and, worse, delivering shoes that look a little deformed or don’t fit correctly. We make sure every single shoe we ship, no matter if it’s a $14.99 or a $39.99 shoe, meets all specifications and fits properly.”

Offering comfort and proper fit at an opening price point is no easy feat. But it’s something the Safdeye brothers take great pride in delivering.

“Fit and comfort are the most important aspects across all our brands,” Daniel affirms. “Every style goes through multiple wear tests, whether it’s a hiking, dress, work or athletic style. If the shoe doesn’t fit, it won’t be shipped.” Daniel credits his father for teaching much of that knowhow, as well as instilling that commitment to every single detail.

“He always says it’s the last five percent that turns a good shoe into a great one,” Daniel says. Joe adds that SCL Footwear’s approach is about offering the best value. “We want to put more into a shoe than what might be expected,” he explains, noting that every shoe is looked at with a fine-tooth comb.

“The best compliment we can ever receive as shoe manufacturers is when a retailer or a consumer says they’d pay double for a shoe like this.”

On that note, the Safdeye brothers are adhering to a golden rule of manufacturing: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. They are sticking with SCL Footwear’s current battle plan to keep building its portfolio of eight brands zeroed in on the entry-price, comfort lifestyle market. There’s plenty of more territory to be seized, they believe. That might also include the addition of another brand or two, via a proprietary launch or another license, so long as the name is right and the need is there. “We’re working on a few concepts right now,” Joe says, adding that the thrill of the build is what drives them. “I call it the build and backfill approach. It’s about getting those first shoes delivered, seeing how they perform and then following that up with more shoes and programs.

It’s building a brand, shoe by shoe, into a success.

Then it’s onto building the next brand.”

So far, so good. Daniel reports SCL Footwear’s business this year has remained strong, and that’s despite the stiff headwinds of record inflation, war in Ukraine and an ongoing pandemic. One of the keys to the company success, he notes, is that focus on comfort at an affordable price. One might even say it’s a recession-proof business model. “A lot of times consumers don’t really care as much about fashion when times get tough,” he says. “But they always a care about comfort. People still have to go to work, and they want something that fits properly, looks good and enables them to be on their feet all day. That’s where SCL Footwear comes into play.”

How business?

Daniel: Business of late has been very good for us overall. Obviously, there’s been some slowdowns caused, most notably, by the record inflation. But we really haven’t experienced that. We’re in a very good position as an opening price point, comfort business. We believe everybody needs a comfort shoe at that price, no matter what the economy might be doing. For example, sales in Harborsides are up significantly this year. We see a lot of upside in that business going forward as opposed to, say, the mid-tier dress or junior markets. Trends today go in and out very quickly, and often you can get stuck with a lot of inventory. The comfort business is far more reliable. We’ve seen no slowdown in that division. And our new Goodyear Racing brand is doing extremely well since we launched a couple of months ago. It’s mostly DTC online, and we’re already hitting milestone marks. Plus, our men’s work and hiking styles in Goodyear and Outdoor Life are performing well, and we’re just getting Mario Lopez and Nanette Lepore delivered. Those startup logistics took longer than we had planned,

but that’s to be expected with so much disruption in the world of late.

Disruption is putting it mildly. The state of the world seems overwhelming right now.

Joe: It’s been a real pounding. Even before all this, we were trying to figure out how to land shoes with the additional tariffs. Then the pandemic and now record inflation. Like I tell our retailers, nothing surprises me in today’s world. Now consumers are battling inflation and exorbitant gas prices. It’s really tough. There was also a lot of free money issued by the government that’s no longer available, and that obviously hurts the retail market as well. But if I had to pick one that could correct itself immediately, it’d be gas prices. That impacts the end consumer directly. People are going to store only when they really need to. And having to spend nearly double makes consumers extremely cautious about what they spend elsewhere.

You’re really bumming me out, man.

Joe: Hey, it’s tough out there. But I believe what

O F F TH E C U F F What are you reading?

Joe: A biography of Charles Goodyear, Jr. Daniel: Shoe Dog

by Phil Knight and Delivering Happiness by Tony Hsieh. I take a lot of inspiration from what Phil Knight did in creating footwear designed for a specific sport. We applied that to our new Goodyear Racing line, which is designed for amateur and sim racing.

What was the last movie you saw? Joe: Top Gun: Maverick.

Daniel: Winning Time: The Rise of the Lakers Dynasty.

What might people be surprised to know about you? Joe: I enjoy the outdoors and fishing. Daniel: I cook very well, I play the ukulele and I also enjoy the outdoors.

What did you want to be when you grew up?

Joe: Right where I am today: selling shoes. We’re fourth generation shoe guys, and my childhood was always hearing about shoes. I wanted to grow up and sell them just like the rest of my family members.

Daniel: I wanted to be involved in the shoe business, but as an athletic footwear designer. In fact, I wrote that in first grade—my mother showed it to me a year ago.

What is your favorite hometown memory? Joe: Playing pick-up basketball in the Brooklyn parks. Daniel: Playing touch football in the street, tackle football in the parks, throwing snowballs at cars. We were mischievous kids growing up in Brooklyn.

(Laughs.)

What was the best business advice you’ve ever received?

Joe: Persistence brings down the resistance. Daniel: Show no emotion, even if you make or lose $1 million.

What is your least favorite word? Joe: Can’t. Daniel: No. What are five words that describe your life? Joe: Hardnosed, competitive, grateful, happy. Daniel: Fun, confidant, energy, persistence, shoes.

What is your motto? Joe: Passion ignites fire. Daniel: No means yes.

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_Q_A_02_TM_GD.indd 12

7/21/22 3:21 PM

FOP AUG 2022.indd 13

7/21/22 3:42 PM

Q&A doesn’t kill you only makes you stronger. And coming from when we started SCL Footwear 15 years ago when the business was so status quo, I’ll take it.

Back then, retailers mostly bought from the same brands and the slots were all basically filled. To get on to the shelves was nearly impossible. From a percentage perspective, if they even offered you something, it was hardly worth it. Now it’s almost the opposite. It’s like someone shook a snow globe and everything changed. Finally, opportunities have become available. So, this disruption is an exciting opportunity for us. This is like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. We just had to move quickly and seize the day. When the pandemic hit, we pounced. We deliver on time and in-full, and retailers can rely on us to deliver strong margins.

A lot of companies trade in the opening price, comfort space, so what might SCL Footwear being doing in particular to have doubled its business since 2020?

Daniel: I learned this from my father and Joe, which is attention to every little detail on every shoe we deliver. It’s about understanding how consumers shop and react the minute they pick a shoe off a shelf. We have to make sure we meet all those expectations. When they press the memory

22_08_FW_Q_A_02_TM_GD.indd 14

foam sockliner, feel the upper materials and flex the sole—that it all passes the test. Then there’s additional details, like our bilingual hangtags, that specifically target our demographic. We concentrate on all the little things. Whereas lots of people in this business don’t know or bother with all those finer details. And if it wasn’t for our father, we wouldn’t know to focus on them, either. We come from a family with deep ties in this industry. Our cousin, Solomon Dabah, is CEO of Vida Intl. Our uncle, Alan Safdeye, is owner of United Footwear Group and our cousin, Joe Safdeye, runs E.S. Originals, which has been one of the most dynamic companies in this industry for decades.

What’s the best industry lesson you’ve learned from your dad?

Joe: Always, always help your customers and be meaningful to them. He always taught us to value our customers, value what we ship to retail and value our family name. Daniel: He’s still very involved in the company. He looks at every shoe and speaks often with our factories and buyers. As the company has grown, Joe and I have taken on more of the heavy lifting, but my father will never, ever retire. It’s just not his style. He’ll always be opening boxes and looking at shoes.

How do you know if a shoe is right down to the last stitch?

Joe: There are just certain aspects you can’t teach, which is knowledge that we’ve learned over the years. It’s about making sure each shoe comes in correctly down to the last detail, be it sockliner and logo placement, upper materials, how they shoes look on the rack, are they being shipped properly, are the hangtags right, etc. We take price in every aspect because it’s our name on the company and our logos on those shoes. We want to represent who we are in the best way possible so that we’re proud of our shoes. We want to deliver great quality to our customers. That’s what makes product sell today. Name brands are great, but if you put name brands on bad-looking product and/or isn’t manufactured correctly, it will fail. Consumers will see those flaws in seconds, and then you won’t get the repeat customer. The brand—and possibly the retailer—will be held accountable. Product is king.

Who is the Harborsides woman?

Joe: She’s anywhere from 40 to 60 years old and wants a comfortable flat that doesn’t break the bank. Our shoes are comfortable, fit correctly and look great. It’s why many of our customers buy second, third, fourth and fifth pairs. My mother

7/21/22 3:21 PM

Q&A in-law recently bought a pair and loves them. She said they are more comfortable than many other name brands she’s bought. She had been buying flats priced $59.99 to $69.99, and ours are priced $29.99 and $39.99. That was a great compliment.

How do you deliver on comfort at that price?

Joe: Oh, that’s the secret sauce that we can’t reveal.

But it boils down to a lot of testing to get the optimum fit. This is a components-based business, and you have got to look at it from that perspective to make sure the fit is proper, the elasticity is right, the outsole works, etc. It all goes hand in hand, and if one component is off, it can result in a bad shoe. If, for example, the last is great but the upper material is wrong, then you’ve missed. Shoemaking is a harmonious process. Every component of a shoe has to all work in sync.

You both come across like you’re designers.

Joe: We aren’t. We wouldn’t consider ourselves line builders, either. I’m an avid shopper. I take inspiration from what I see in the marketplace and fill in the white space, be that a certain look or retail niche. Above all, we’re trying to deliver great product at a great vale under recognizable brands across our portfolio. It’s that value-quality equation

22_08_FW_Q_A_02_TM_GD.indd 15

that we’re always trying to put together. And one of the beauties of our company is we don’t focus on just one segment of the business. We have both a men’s and women’s design teams, and our brands address a broad range of categories. Our aim is to establish core programs within our brands. It’s about how finding dependable items that yield the most amount of units. In contrast, a lot of companies are more seasonal and trend-driven, whereas we keep our eye on core basics and deliver on those.

Daniel, myself and our design team do a great job on identifying what those are and then getting them into retail.

Is that pretty much how Goodyear Racing came into being?

Daniel: When we first started showing the line to retailers, most passed. So we launched a DTC site (Goodyearfootwearusa.com) because we believed there is a customer base out there. My father, who’s a little old school, advised against doing that. But we decided to let the consumers decide if they want this product. It’s been great so far. The shoes are blowing out. People keep coming back for the same styles, and a lot of them are buying multiple pairs. They wear them while attending NASCAR races, during their amateur races and while doing

sim racing. We even designed a gaming race shoe.

Over the next five years, we plan to expand into the flame-resistant, performance racing segment.

Eventually we want Goodyear Racing to be the Nike of NASCAR, where every driver wears Goodyear Racing footwear. So, while retailers early on kept telling us no, we kept saying yes. We believed the audience is there and have gone about seizing the opportunity.

How big is this audience?

Daniel: Overall, the gaming business is booming.

And since the pandemic, sim racing participation has grown 950 percent. Millions of people participate in sim and amateur racing. Every NASCAR driver is in the iRacing league. And there are millions of people who might wear our shoes casually to a NASCAR or Formula 1 race, which is growing in popularity. And with Goodyear being the No. 1 tire in NASCAR and the original sponsor of Formula 1 Racing, the name is iconic.

We see enormous potential going forward. Joe: We’re also going to continue to develop the work side of the Goodyear brand. The family footwear channel is a good fit. Actually, a lot of those retailers reached out to us about an opportunity with Goodyear, noting it’s their demographic, >47

7/21/22 3:22 PM

Welcome Home John Daher, owner of Shoebox and Co., returns to his retail roots with a fresh concept in a picturesque Maine resort town. By Greg Dutter

URNS OUT YOU can go home again. At least John Daher has gone back to the job he first called home more than 25 years ago. Daher started working in his mother’s shoe store and went on to expand that operation into a namesake chain of five successful sit-and-fit stores in Massachusetts over the course of two decades. He then crossed over to the wholesale side as product consiglieri for Bob Infantino at Clarks Companies N.A. and later at Cobb Hill, Drydock Footwear and Rockport. It was an incredible run—particularly at Clarks, where Daher oversaw the introduction of the Privo and Unstructured lines, and where pairs overall at the company grew by one million annually for 10 years straight. When the revival of the Rockport venture didn’t pan out as planned, Daher could have hung ’em up. He had nothing left to prove. One problem, though: He’s not the retiring kind.

“I’ve always been working,” Daher says. “Retirement has never been a consideration.”

In fact, Daher never even took a break. For the past few years, he has been a partner in a sourcing company that does design and development for major brands. But he wanted to do more. A period of soul searching ensued. He looked into many possible ventures, including investing and the food industry.

But his musings always circled back to the industry he loved most: shoes.

“And whenever I dreamt about the footwear business, it was always back to my retail days,” Daher says.

As fate would have it, Daher and his wife, who manages an interior design business in Boston, had recently bought a vacation home in the coastal resort town of Kennebunk, ME. Daher was on one of his walks around town, contemplating his next career move, when it occurred to him that Kennebunk could use a shoe store. Not just any shoe store, mind you. What Daher envisioned was more an art gallery concept featuring a curated mix of comfort and style.

The “gallery” would provide an experience—namely, an enjoyable discovery process for customers, where they could learn the stories behind an array of unique brands and styles. Customers might be familiar with some of the brands, but others would be new to them. The store might include 12 styles from one brand, while selections from another would be limited to two or three. In every instance, Daher would focus on the hidden gems rather than the shoes people could purchase in a thousand other outlets. The store Daher envisioned would be on his terms: selection, service, decor, vibe…every detail.

Above all, it would be fun.

“I don’t want this to be a burden,” he says. “I want to project my knowledge,

John Daher and his bubbles machine welcome customers.

gained from my years of footwear experience, to my customers. I want them to enjoy shopping and learning about these interesting shoes. It’s really more of a gallery/gift shop than a shoe store.”

BUBBLES AND TUNES An art gallery-worthy selection is great, but you have to lure customers inside first. Enter, a bubble machine and some good tunes piped outside

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_RETAIL_PROFILE_02_GD_TM.indd 16

7/21/22 1:24 PM

to draw Dock Square strollers into Shoebox and Co. “We’re in the primary shopping area, but just a little off the main thoroughfare,” Daher says, noting it was the only space available. “So, we’ve done some quirky things. The bubble machine has been really great—I should probably sell those, too. And the music is what our international tourist demographic relates to, like Stan Getz and Bob Dylan.”

Once inside the cozy, 1,000-square-foot space (the store name lives up to its size), customers can peruse at their leisure. There’s no pressure from the two fulltime and three part-time employees. Upselling is not the mission, either. Rather, guests are offered a glass of rosé and, if interested, can learn about the brands and styles on display. “It’s more of an interesting Every style has experience rather than selling shoes in an antiquated an interesting way,” Daher explains. “I don’t want our employees to story just waiting go to the stockroom and come back with shoes—that’s to be told. intimidating to some customers. They’re less likely to interact with you at that point.”

Daher didn’t want a self-service format, either. But the stock is merchandised in a way that encourages interaction. It’s not the typical “shoes on a shelf ” format. If a customer wants to look through the boxes for their size, they are welcome to do so. “The sales approach is never, ‘Can I help you?’” Daher says. “It’s more, if they pick a style up, we’ll tell them the story about that brand. And if they want to try it on, that’s their decision.”

Daher doesn’t want Shoebox and Co. to be intimidating in any way. That’s why the store vibe and decor is laidback and inviting. It mirrors the selection: casual elegance. “The common denominator is comfort and style integrated,” Daher says. “When you think of comfort, you tend to think of more mature footwear. My philosophy is comfort that works with the foot’s anatomy but also is trend-right and interesting, and maybe they haven’t been aware of.”

With the pandemic causing many consumers to shift to online purchases in the past two years, Daher believes such a shopping experience is particularly relevant. “People haven’t been able to get out, and if you don’t know about these brands and styles, you wouldn’t even think of going to those sites to find them,” he says. Hence, the importance of the storytelling component. “Getting customers interested in what this brand or particular style is about is our goal,” he says, adding that the interaction builds trust. “This approach gets people involved in the process seamlessly. They become more interested and build trust through our conversation and are willing to try on different styles.”

Ellen Price, sales rep for Bos. & Co. and distributors of Fly London and Asportuguesas, says Shoebox and Co. has done a great job in creating an inviting environment. “The store is beautifully merchandised and easy to shop,” she says. “The concept is a bit ‘out of the box,’ which is exactly what attracts customers. Offering alternatives to classic looks that are well-made and comfortable is refreshing, and the customer has responded positively.”

Such a nuanced, low-pressure sale requires the right employees. Once again, fate dealt Daher a winning hand. His two full-time employees are an ideal combination of freshness and experience. One, a yoga instructor, is new to the business. “She’s into holistic healing and can speak informatively about wellness and foot health, which enhances the story of our products,”

Daher says. “She loves conversation and people. I get so many compliments about her.” The other “wonderful” full-timer previously worked in a boutique shoe store. And one of the part-timers is a former territory sales manager for Spring Footwear and worked in the industry for years. “I guess all the stars were aligned,” Daher says of the team that has coalesced, noting he never specifically sought ‘salespeople.’ “That wasn’t the right approach. I wanted it to happen organically, and it has really come together nicely.”

BEYOND EXPECTATIONS Shoebox and Co. has been hopping since opening in May. Tourist season is in full swing, and traffic is approaching pre-pandemic levels. Still, Daher is surprised by the store’s success to date. Sure, his instincts told him this concept would take off. He just didn’t know it would soar. “It’s worked tremendously well,” he reports. In fact, he recently rented an adjacent 600 square feet of space to house more inventory. “I’ve turned my inventory almost twice this season already.”

Of particular surprise has been the success of men’s. Daher was confident women would respond well to Shoebox and Co., but in the first few days he could see men were “just as interested in interesting footwear.”

“It’s been really exciting to see men embrace our selection and willing to try something totally new,” he says, adding that he’s had particular success with Rieker, Naot and Birkenstock.

Rich Rask, president of Rieker Shoe Corporation, says the Shoebox and Co. concept is right in step with the brand’s premise. “Comfort with unique styling is Rieker’s DNA,” Rask says. “Shoebox is giving the consumer a fresh experience, offering unique styles that they may not see in their local markets.

And with Rieker’s large and diverse collection, they can select many styles that are unique to them.”

Brian Handler, a sales rep for Birkenstock, reports that Shoebox and Co. has been “killing it” so far. But, per the store’s approach, it’s not the Arizona or Boston styles leading the charge. “They’re doing great with the Bend (lifestyle 2022 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 17

22_08_FW_RETAIL_PROFILE_02_GD_TM.indd 17

7/21/22 1:24 PM

sneakers) for men and women,” he reports. “John reorders every week.”

Daher’s ability to fill-in on an almost weekly basis has been another pleasant surprise turned success strategy. He cites his strong industry contacts as a key to getting inventory, along with his focus on lesser-known styles, which are more likely to be available. The fact that many of the brands Daher carries don’t require ordering-case packs helps too.

The pick-and-choose approach also enables him to experiment. “It’s so much fun getting on the phone with customer service or my territory rep to see what else I can add,” Daher says. “At the rate we’re turning inventory, it’s allowing me to bring in small batches of items to test to see if they become something. I’m also willing to take more risks because I can see there’s a customer that has the eye and is willing to buy these styles.”

For Daher, having so much buying freedom is like being a kid with the keys to a candy store. “I see lots of shoes I love,” he says. “There’s so much creativity out there that’s basically been hidden from consumers, especially smaller brands that offer the style and comfort quotient that’s so important. It’s just so much fun introducing that to my customers.”

Shoebox and Co. styles currently fall in the $120 to $300 price range and span 33 brands, ranging from established names like Born and Dansko to niche players like Oncepts, Asportuguesas and Lemon Jelly. Sneakers are in the mix, just not the kind for competition. “I’m not big into athletics, which is kind of out of the norm right now,” Daher says. “But I offer something in between that’s very casual. I don’t offer heels either, but I certainly have high wedges—like our best-selling, three-inch wedge sneakers from Fly London. I don’t carry black dress shoes for men, but I do carry a lot of interesting hybrid dress-casual styles.”

Daher says the assortment reflects a world that dresses more casually, though it’s a tad more polished. “There’s a casual elegance need that I think is very

important, but it hasn’t been exposed to a lot of people,” he says.

Price gives props to Daher for letting her recommend exciting, multi-colored Fly London styles with aggressive bottoms for the store. It shows he has trust and vision, she says. “Creativity and originality inspire imagination. Why be mediocre when you can extraordinary.” She says Daher took a similar leap with the company’s sustainability brand, Asportuguesas. “When John initially walked by my booth at the past BTSA show, he was curious but skeptical,” she says. “He listened to the story and, on the second day, came back, spent time seeing styles on foot and then tried a pair on. He got it! They’re comfortable, hip, unisex and can be worn indoors and outdoors.” Price adds, “Both brands offer distinctive styling that are breath of fresh air. This is why John’s new venture is so refreshing and successful.”

Daher feels great joy in providing this platform. It’s a win-win for Shoebox and Co. and the brands, especially the smaller ones. “Those brands are looking for a lifeline to represent them, but the number of retailers who might is declining,” he says. “I’m representing them in an honorable way that benefits us both.”

One of Daher’s ultimate goals is building Shoebox and Co. into a trusted brand. He’s doing the heavy lifting by culling the sea of styles offered elsewhere and, by extension, making life easier for his customers. “It’s like going to a trade show and seeing 10,000 different styles. How do you make sense of all that?” he says. “When you shop online, you see so much that you lose focus.” Daher’s 30-plus years of experience enables him to weed out the duds. That’s basically what he did throughout his wholesale career. “I curated a line to represent the brand, and now I’m curating the Shoebox and Co. brand.”

Naturally, Shoebox and Co. had a few missteps along the way. For example, “I thought I needed some entry price points, but I found out that isn’t >47

Life is good.

Especially in comfy slippers.

See how good life can feel when you carry the Life is Good® women’s, men’s and children’s slipper collection from Green Market. www.greenmarketservices.com

Specialists in Indoor/Outdoor Slippers and Casual Footwear © 2022 Green Market Services Co., Inc.

22_08_FW_RETAIL_PROFILE_02_GD_TM.indd 18

7/21/22 1:25 PM

Industry-leading, FATES® technology cuts carbon emissions by up to

70%

80% sustainably sourced plants.

Powered By

Connect With Our Team @Evoco Ltd. | Evocoltd.com

FOP AUG 2022.indd 19

7/21/22 3:53 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G 1

3

BUSINESS CASUAL

5

Chunky loafers work beyond 9 to 5.

1. NeroGiardini 2. All Black 3. Geox 4. Aerosoles 5. Bos. & Co. 6. Vionic 7. Rockport

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_TRENDSPOTTING_10_GD_TM.indd 20

7/21/22 1:29 PM

2

4

6

P HOTOG RA P H Y BY DA N SP R I N G STO N

7

2022 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

22_08_FW_TRENDSPOTTING_10_GD_TM.indd 21

7/21/22 1:29 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

1

8

2

3

7

6 4

MANDAL MANIA

F r o m s p o r t y t o b e a c h y, g e n t s c a n s h o w a l i t t l e s k i n .

1. Xtratuf 2. Geox 3. Lamo 4. Florsheim 5. Remonte 6. Merrell 7. Ecco 8. Naot

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY DA N S PR IN G STO N

5

22 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_TRENDSPOTTING_10_GD_TM.indd 22

7/21/22 1:30 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

1

2

3

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY DA N S PR IN G STO N

4

AROUND THE BLOCK

U n d e r s t a t e d , ch i c an d ch u n k y mu l e s fo r to d a y ’ s an y t h i n g - b u t - s k i n n y je a n s .

1. Rockport 2. Salt + Umber 3. Naked Feet 4. Arch

2022 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

22_08_FW_TRENDSPOTTING_10_GD_TM.indd 23

7/21/22 1:30 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

1

2

5 3

TEXTILE MESSAGE Guys breathe easy in canvas.

1. Vionic 2. Lamo 3. Geox 4. Florsheim 5. Western Chief

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY DA N S PR IN G STO N

4

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_TRENDSPOTTING_10_GD_TM.indd 24

7/21/22 1:30 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

1

2

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY T RE V E T T M CC A ND L I SS

3

NEW ORDER IN THE COURT Creeper soles put a punk twist on tennies.

1. J/Slides 2. Victoria 3. Gabor

2022 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

22_08_FW_TRENDSPOTTING_10_GD_TM.indd 25

7/21/22 1:31 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

2

1

3

PUFF PIECE

Plush and padded sandals provide a cushy home for tootsies.

1. Enjoiya 2. Seychelles 3. Geox 4. Marc Fisher

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY DA N S PR IN G STO N

4

26 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_TRENDSPOTTING_10_GD_TM.indd 26

7/21/22 1:31 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

2 1

3

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY DA N S PR IN G STO N

4

HOW SWEET Slides as refreshing as sherbet.

1. Minnetonka 2. Xtratuf 3. Chooka 4. Sperry

2022 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 27

22_08_FW_TRENDSPOTTING_10_GD_TM.indd 27

7/21/22 1:31 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

1

8

2

3 7

6

4

BOLD SOLES

Aggressive, beefy outsoles add ’tude to kicks.

1. Jambu 2. Culture of Brave 3. All Black 4. Australia Luxe Collective 5. Cougar 6. J/Slides 7.

8. OTBT

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY T RE V E T T M CC A ND L I SS

5

28 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_TRENDSPOTTING_10_GD_TM.indd 28

7/21/22 1:32 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

3 2

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY T RE V E T T M CC A ND L I SS

1

GRAY AREAS

The in-between neutral for guys spans greige to charcoal.

1. Taft 2. NASA 3. Australia Luxe Collective

2022 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 29

22_08_FW_TRENDSPOTTING_10_GD_TM.indd 29

7/21/22 1:32 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

2

1

STUD FINDER

The rock & roll embellishment always strikes a powerful chord.

1. Nanette Lepore 2. Sugar 3. Bos. & Co.

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY DA N S PR IN G STO N

3

30 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_TRENDSPOTTING_10_GD_TM.indd 30

7/21/22 1:32 PM

Where

COMFORT MEETS ART springfootwear.com | 800.962.0030

FOP AUG 2022.indd 31

SS|23 COLLECTION Style FABULOSO & GWENA /Springfootwear

7/22/22 6:40 AM

A N OT E T O M Y Y O U N G E R S E L F

L E A N I N G T H E WAY Ma t t S c h w a r t z , c h i e f r e v e n u e o ffi c e r o f A e t r e x Wo r l d w i d e , on a life of listening, leaning and leading DEAR MATT, I’m you, 30 years in the future. You’re 18 and about to start college at the University of Vermont. I’ve been given a chance to write you a letter offering career advice. Before I get to that, you must be wondering what your life looks like in 2022. Here’s a quick snapshot: You married Kristin and have three wonderful daughters together; you love working with your dad and brothers in the shoe business; and you live 10 minutes from where you grew up in Closter, NJ. Life is good!

Now for a little bad news. Mom always said you had the thickest hair in the family. Alas, it doesn’t last. We can’t win them all.

Now for the advice…

The good should as well—accountability and praise. A more important and less acknowledged truth: The good and bad roll uphill, too. To your managers along the way—and to your peers—you’ll always own your team’s successes and failures.

Leadership: Great leaders identify the right course of action, tune out the noise and drag everyone along with them. Lincoln and Churchill, maybe the greatest leaders of their centuries, are terrific examples. It’s hard to tune out the noise and hard to keep everyone on course. But the underacknowledged strength of great leaders is that, in retrospect, they got it right. Put conversely, you can’t be a great leader when you choose what turns out to be the wrong course of action.

Perfectionism: Sometimes we all feel an urge to perfect what we’re working on. But perfectionism paralyzes. It’s motivated by fear that if what you do or make fails, the failure defines you.

It doesn’t. Do things. Make things.

You’ll just keep getting better. Fail your way forward.

Other Peoples’ Motives: Matt, I know you like Citizen Kane.

Remember how the reporters spend the whole movie trying to figure out why Kane whispers “rosebud” when he dies? They never find out it’s a sled from his childhood.

We find out, but we don’t know for sure what it meant to Kane.

Doing What You’re Meant to Do: Well, you’re going to know people You’ve heard this often: Figure out in business who spend way too what you’re meant to do and do that. much time looking for “rosebuds.”

Ignore this advice! Here’s what you They try to explain why someone should do: Pay attention to what said something or acted a certain works for you. What do you enjoy? way, and they do this by ascribing What do you need to be happy? Find motives or intentions to them. Here’s what feels right and then lean in that the thing, they are almost always direction. Each time you lean—be wrong! What motivates someone it a new job, a course of study, a else’s behavior is often exceptionally hobby—listen to yourself. What’s First date fate: Matt Schwartz and his wifeto-be Kristin in the good hair days. complex—and unknowable. Don’t right for you? What isn’t right? Lean worry about peoples’ motives, and in the direction that’s working. It’s don’t waste your time thinking about them. It’s a recipe for distraca long game. Listen and lean in. Keep repeating this. tion and exhaustion. Act and react based on what you do know, what you’ve observed with your senses and what you can verify. I promise Hobbies: You’ll be told that you can’t be great at both a job and a hobby. this will save you lots of time and energy.

Again, ignore this advice! Greatness is extremely rare. But who cares?

The pursuit of it is available to everyone. Enjoy your hobbies!

There’s so much more, bud. But I’m going to leave off here as I’ve given you a lot to digest. Listen to tons of music. Write lots of songs.

Management: Great managers identify the key roles on their team and Read as much you can. Explore the world. And, most of all, have fun! find people who can do these roles better than themselves. Then, they Hint: I know you will! create the context for their team to thrive. What else should a manager focus on? The roles only she or he can fill. For instance, prioritizing, With love, allocating resources, problem-solving and keeping everyone aligned behind the company’s goals. A corollary to this is the saying, “Shit rolls You downhill.” There’s truth in that. Though, not just the bad rolls downhill.

32 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_NTMYS_002GD.indd 32

7/21/22 3:31 PM

SCENE & HEARD

Aerosoles Rolls into New Categories expand into this on-trend market by introducing skates that incorporate AEROSOLES, RECENTLY ACQUIRED by American Exchange Group, our signature comfort technology in fun colors and prints,” he says. SRP is rolling into new categories—literally. The women’s comfort brand, will be $80 to $150. established in 1987, has signed a licensing agreement with Orly Corp. for Mamrout believes Aerosoles’ rich heritage in comfort footwear provides the distribution of men’s slippers, men’s and women’s flip-flops, hanging the bandwidth. “For the past 35 years, Aerosoles has footwear, men’s socks and roller skates for adults been synonymous with comfort and innovative techand kids. The collections are set to be launched in nology,” he says. “Our shoes are crafted in a unique summer ’23, and will be available at Nordstrom, way—by joining the upper directly to the outsole, Macy’s and other major department and specialty then turning the shoe right side out and inserting a stores to follow. cushioned footbed. The result is an ultra-flexible shoe, Alen Mamrout, president and CEO of American with no need for breaking in.” In addition, Mamrout Exchange Group, says the time to extend Aerosoles cites Aerosoles’ unique diamond pattern construction into men’s is now—when comfort footwear is reignthat disperses friction away from the foot, providing ing supreme in a casual lifestyle world. “This shift better grip and comfort, and results in long-lasting, is a perfect opportunity to bring the comfort and supportive footwear. “We plan to integrate these technology of Aerosoles to the men’s market,” he techniques into our new offerings,” he says, noting says, noting that as a global lifestyle brand, it is its an expectation. “Our customers know that when committed to showcasing a cohesive retail presenthey purchase a style from Aerosoles, they’ll be the tation featuring a wide variety of products for all Come slither: snakeskin print most comfortable shoes they own.” consumers. “Men’s and women’s hanging footwear skates by Aerosoles.

Albert Antebi, CEO of Orly, says Aerosoles is a and flip-flops are a natural expansion for the brand, perfect fit within the 47-year-old company’s portfolio. “We’re very excited and because they’ll be available at a friendly price point (SRP $20 to $50), to partner with an internationally recognized brand like Aerosoles, known it will assist in capturing more shares of the market as well as strengthen for their comfort, style and innovation,” he says. “We’ll leverage our brand our brand recognition.” equity, dominant position in fashion-forward footwear and industry-leading As for the leap into roller skates, Mamrout again cites timing. “Roller design team to expand upon Aerosoles’ style and offerings.” skating has seen a huge resurgence in popularity, so we’re excited to

Footwear for the beach, shore, boat, sidewalk, boardwalk and beyond.

WATERSPORTS Surf • Wake • Bluewater • Paddle • Wind • Skate COASTAL LIFE Swim • Boutique • Resort • Coastal Gift • Footwear

REGISTER AT S UR F E XPO .C O M

22_08_FW_SCENE_AND_HEARD_03_GD_TM.indd 33

7/22/22 11:47 AM

Clarks

Floafers

Guys click with subtle shades.

BY ANN LOYND BURTON

Florsheim

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

Mute Button

34 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2022

22_09_FW_MEN_02GD.indd 34

7/22/22 6:38 AM

Twisted X

Geox

Rockport

Dansko

35

22_09_FW_MEN_02GD.indd 35

7/22/22 6:38 AM

Multi-colored raffia mule sandal by Seychelles.

36

22_08_FW_FASHION_03GDNCindd.indd 36

7/22/22 3:57 PM

22_08_FW_FASHION_TYPE_ONLY.indd 37

7/22/22 4:45 PM

Woven leather deck sneakers with beaded detailing by Enjoiya. Opposite: Dingo western mules with wildflower embroidered uppers.

38

22_08_FW_FASHION_03GDNCindd.indd 38

7/22/22 3:58 PM

39

22_08_FW_FASHION_03GDNCindd.indd 39

7/22/22 3:58 PM

This page, top right: Biza perforated leather flat; Sperry woven boat shoe. Bottom left: kitten-heel slide with woven upper

by Marc Fisher; OTBT braided jute wedge sandal. Opposite: woven wicker loafers by Aerosoles.

40

22_08_FW_FASHION_03GDNCindd.indd 40

7/22/22 4:17 PM

41

22_08_FW_FASHION_03GDNCindd.indd 41

7/22/22 3:59 PM

Woven leather peep-toe mule

by Bella-Vita.

Opposite: Dansko sport sandals with woven herringbone pattern.

42

22_08_FW_FASHION_03GDNCindd.indd 42

7/22/22 3:59 PM

43 43

22_08_FW_FASHION_03GDNCindd.indd 43

7/22/22 3:59 PM

Top: woven leather platform slide by Bos. & Co.; bottom: handmade leather ballet flats by Amada.

Opposite: Salt + Umber hand woven mules.

Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; stylist: Alexandra Carr; model: Mary/Q Management; makeup: Maya Ling Feero; production/stylist assistant: Eileen Viglietta.

Special thanks to Músed for their one-of-a-kind, punk couture pieces.

44

22_08_FW_FASHION_03GDNCindd.indd 44

7/22/22 4:00 PM

45

22_08_FW_FASHION_03GDNCindd.indd 45

7/22/22 4:00 PM

Recipe for Success Beuatiisoles founder dishes on how the brand came to be. By Greg Dutter

IT WAS UGLY. It was scary. It was a potential killer. It also was the impetus landed in hundreds of boutiques nationwide, as well as in Nordstrom and behind Beautiisoles, an upscale women’s brand (SRP: $250 to $495) launched Lord & Taylor. “It’s been a very good beginning,” she says. “We now have in 2020 by snack food executive/competitive ballroom dancer/burgeoning shoe stores reaching out to us.” executive, Robyn Shreiber. That “it” was a soft corn between the toes of her left What retailers like, Shreiber says, is Beautiisoles’ wow factor. “There’s a foot. Shreiber had been living with the nagging ailment for years that, in 2018, genuine femininity and eye for detail,” she says. “Attention to detail is critidoctors warned could lead to sepsis—a potentially fatal infection. cally important, and that includes stitching colors, lasts, ornamentations, the Lying in the hospital bed post-surgery, Shreiber vowed to channel her years exact placement of those ornaments, fit, comfort (Beautiisoles shoes feature of pain and suffering into something beautiful or, more precisely, Beautiisoles. six millimeters of padding), heel shapes, colors of soles and sockliners, etc.”

“I had been running around the world, selling snack food products, dancing Shreiber adds, “Everything about each shoe involves hours of conversation, competitively and doing everything I do, but always wearing too tight heeled and when someone tries on one of our shoes, they feel instant comfort. They shoes only to wind up in the hospital with a very look up immediately and say, ‘Wow.’” serious issue,” she says. “I had to do something for The wow for Spring/Summer ’23 starts with a all women, and decided to create a line of shoes that gorgeous color palette, reports Shreiber. “There’s would be gorgeous and comfortable.” lots of mint, gorgeous lilac, beige and lemon,” she Beautiisoles cooks up Just one catch: Shreiber didn’t know a soul in the says. “We also have lots of elegant gold chain style and comfort, a.k.a. shoe business. But that didn’t stop her. She’s a selfornamentations and crystals, floral embroideries, its “wow” factor. described “tremendous multitasker” who always gets stunning heel shapes and classy textured pumps her foot in the door. “I have a huge bandwidth and I’m that are like burlap.” Shreiber says the broad generally awake at 4:30 a.m. each morning, working collection is aimed at Beautiisoles’ equally broad through the day and dancing competitively in the target audience. “We are for every woman—from evenings,” Shreiber says. She also possesses decades twentysomethings to 60-year-olds,” she says. “We of product manufacturing experience—something have flats, wedges, kitten heels and higher heels. We she told herself repeatedly early on. “I kept telling have conservative, office-friendly block heels and myself, how different can manufacturing snacks and gorgeous shoes for a night out.” What Beautiisoles shoes really be,” Shreiber says. “Find a good sourcing doesn’t have is basic black shoes. “Everything partner, mix the necessary ingredients, sample the has that extra oomph,” Shreiber explains. “Like goods, get it made, find distribution and ship.” While ballroom dancing, you can follow the steps, but that may be a tad oversimplified, it’s essentially the can you really evoke what you’re trying to do with path she set out on in 2019. the dance? Our shoes do.”

Early on, though, that path was bumpy. For Ever the multitasker, Shreiber plans to continue starters, the initial samples weren’t all up to snuff. doing both jobs, as well as dance. A typical day sees Also, getting one’s foot in the door of retailers, her meeting with national accounts in the snack amid a raging pandemic, proved quite challenging. foods industry, overseeing new product launches Then fate struck—Apr. 21, 2021, to be exact—durand dealing with supply chain issues. There are ing one of Shreiber’s presentations at a Miami also zoom meetings with Beautiisoles’ sales and Beach boutique. The retailer suggested Shreiber design teams, as well as with retailers. Then, most meet her boyfriend, who just so happened to be evenings, she’s off to the studio, ballroom dancJohn Hanna, a veteran of the shoe business with ing for two to four hours. It’s a heavy lift, but the a resume that includes CEO of Charles David and, exec wouldn’t have it any other way. “I just do it,” prior to that, founder of The Fashion House, which Shreiber says. “I make things happen.” She also held licenses for Nicole Miller, Isaac Mizrahi and credits her “phenomenal” teams at both companies Robyn Shreiber, founder, Beautiisoles Richard Tyler, among others. “It was as if my great for making it happen. “Everything starts with a grandmother was on my shoulder like an angel,” Shreiber recalls of the sale,” she says. “You can have the best product, but it will sit on a shelf if you initial meeting with Hanna, who was officially retired. “Worlds collided, can’t sell it. We have a very dynamic sales team that’s extremely hands-on in a good way, and we soon started working together and rebranding not and great at outreaching and following up.” just from an overall aesthetics viewpoint, but also operationally, sales, As for Beautiisoles’ next steps, Shreiber says the approach will be stradesign—in all ways.” tegic. “I don’t want to get too far ahead of myself, which is how my father The new-and-improved Beautiisoles launched in January of this year. built our snack foods company,” she says. “We started with one product and The debut season, Shreiber reports, has been a huge success. Thanks, in now manufacture over 10,000.” Shreiber envisions, in three years, targeted part to Hanna’s input and connections, an experienced sales team and brand extensions for Beautiisoles. “We won’t be making dishes,” she says. “But improved designs from a new sourcing partner in Italy, Beautiisoles has handbags and other accessories are a definite possibility.”

46 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

Q&A continued from page 15 which is primarily every day, do-it-yourself type guys. We’re developing better-grade Goodyear basic hikers and work boots for key customers.

We’re targeting the $90 to $120 price point with a few more specialized products up to $140. The air gets pretty thin over $120 for work boots.

Orders become scare above that price.

Few brands possess the recognition of Goodyear, not to mention the tremendous visibility provided by the Goodyear blimp and its iconic logo.

Joe: We saw that potential when we first signed the license in 2012. It’s also why we’ve renewed the license three times. However, I’m not going to lie to you, it took us a while to convince retailers of what this brand could be. Fortunately, once we got shoes to retail, they’ve done a lot of the talking. Buyers are happy. It’s good product. And while brand recognition is key, it still all comes down to product and value. Like I mentioned earlier, product is king. As long as we deliver on that equation, we should continue to be successful.

Does NASA have similar brand attributes as Goodyear?

Joe: Actually, the beauty of a brand like NASA is that there are no specific core basics we have to adhere to. It gives us a lot of leeway to build the brand across a range of styles, be they cupsole sneakers, sandals and slippers. It’s basically playing Potato Head: what uppers do we want to put on those core constructions. What materials make sense for the brand. For example, we have a cupsole sneaker that features all-over 3M reflective material. That’s a fit with the NASA brand. It’s also got great shelf appeal.

Ten employees managing eight brands is a lot of responsibility. How do you guys pull it off ?

Joe: We all wear multiple hats. But we are looking to expand our team where we can as we’ve grown fast over the last few years. That aside, there are some days when I get home from work and need to take a breather and get my equilibrium back. Going from brand to brand, category to category, shoe to shoe and retailer to retailer can be a real challenge. It can get confusing and stressful at times. But it’s also part of the thrill. I love building shoe brands. It’s a craft that we’re passionate about it. Passion ignites fire. We get fired up about this business. There’s nothing better than launching a brand and seeing it mature at retail.

What do you love most about your job?

Daniel: Meeting great, genuine, honest people. I’ve made amazing friends in this business along the way. Some of them aren’t even in the business anymore yet they are still among my best friends. There’s nothing more valuable than a genuine friendship. I also love this business because you can make a footprint, pun intended. Relatively, there’s not a lot of people in this industry overall and, if you come up with something really unique, you can be in the history books. Joe: I love the build. I love building shoes and brands, as well as then building them at retail. I love getting that call after we’ve delivered our shipments and the buyer says our shoes are doing great. That’s my ultimate thrill.

Is there a fifth generation in the wings?

Joe: I have two sons so, God willing, at least one of them will follow in my footsteps. And Danny will soon have a few in the pipeline, God willing.

For us, it’s all about building SCL Footwear into something for our family’s future. Daniel and I are the pioneers of this company. We’re doing the heavy lifting. We want the 10th generation of our family to run this company one day. In the meantime, it’s fun to build SCL Footwear from the ground up. We wouldn’t want it any other way. •

continued from page 18 necessary. I could go to a higher level.” Daher concedes that “there’s certainly some tweaking to do in the future.” But overall, the response to his store has been stellar.

“We get so many comments about the taste level, asking how we found these brands that aren’t seen elsewhere,” he says. “I’m just blown away by that emotional response—that they see the fashion within our collection and my brand in these brands.”

Based on the positive feedback, he envisions adding an online shopping component by next fall. “We’ve had multiple requests from our tourists,” he reports. “Shoebox and Co. is a brand for them wherever they may be.”

JUST GETTING STARTED It took just 90 days to get store No. 1 from lease signing to open for business.

And Daher is already in the early planning stages of two more Shoebox and Co. outposts, set to open by next summer, most likely in nearby resort towns for logistical purposes. He believes the capsule concept can work in most resort towns because the target demographic is already strolling through the various independent bookstores, gift shops and ice cream parlors nearby.

The customer base spans a broad age range, which surprised Daher initially. “We have young people come in looking for Birkenstocks and, while they can just as easily buy them online, they’re having a great experience trying them on and interacting with our staff,” he says. “I think there’s a yearning out there to reexperience the shopping experience that we call brick-and-mortar. People want to reconnect in a way where they can learn something, and it’s not just a bunch of merchandise stacked out there. That’s especially true for more personal items like shoes.”

Opening additional Shoebox and Co. locations is also a way to give back to the industry and pump much-needed new blood into it. “I would love to mentor young people into this business,” Daher says. “I think there’s such an opportunity here. People used to come up organically through Nordstrom and independent stores, but there is so little of that now. I believe this is a viable opportunity to mentor younger folks into this business.”

Managing one very busy Shoebox and Co. store is a full-time job, so potentially managing three will be a challenge. It helps that Daher is a 66-year-old who feels “like I’m 36,” reinvigorated by working in retail again.

“It’s a lot of work, but I thrive on that,” he says. “My mother was a tough cookie. I grew up in a family where all my siblings became entrepreneurs.

I was the black sheep who went to the corporate side. Now I’ve done a total 360, and I’m back to my roots and so energized that I don’t see an end at this point. I love the shoe industry, and before I leave this planet, I want to add value to it for people and brands.”

In the meantime, Daher is living the dream. “This store is my baby. I’m there every day, if possible,” he says. “I’m having the time of my life.”

Being in the store every day means Daher’s vacation home has become his primary residence. That wasn’t the plan, but duty calls. “I haven’t been back to Boston since we opened,” he says. “I hear fall is very popular here, and I’m excited to bring in seasonal footwear. There are so many interesting items that could intrigue my customers.”

Daher plans to stay open through January, then close for February and March before reopening. “That’s the beauty of a store in a resort location—you can take a break,” he says. Of course, his always-working M.O. means he’ll spend those months getting the new Shoe Box and Co. locations rolling.

But it’s not work if you truly love it.

And Daher does. His days are filled with doing what he enjoys most: running a shoe store and interacting with customers. “It feels like a party in the store all the time—the music, the bubbles, the wine, the shoes all work together,” he says. “It’s just so invigorating to engage with customers who appreciate what we are trying to do. It’s like being with friends all day.” •

47 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_RETAIL_PROFILE_02_GD_TM.indd 47

7/21/22 3:18 PM

L A S T S HO T

Nectar of the Shods

Juicy Couture

NeroGiardini

Dansko

Naot

Just Peachy

A s w e e t s p r i n g s h a d e t h a t ’s ripe for the picking across a range of silhouettes.

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY DA N S P R I N G STO N

Victoria

48 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2022

22_08_FW_LAST_SHOT_02GD.indd 48

7/20/22 6:05 PM

FOP AUG 2022.indd 3

7/21/22 1:44 PM

Featur ing Aetr ex or thotic suppor t and me mor y foam cushioning for supe r ior comfor t

FOP AUG 2022.indd 4

7/21/22 1:44 PM