Footwear Plus | January 2018 by Wainscot Media

T H E E P I C T U R N A R O U N D TA L E O F T W I S T E D X

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THE BOOT ISSUE Bold, Beautiful, Ve r s a t i l e S t y l e Statements

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H E R I TA G E M E E T S T E C H I N T H E O U T D O O R C AT E G O R Y

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T H I S J U S T I N : M I A M I B E AT

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c Rag & Bone

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FALL 2018 SHOW F E B R U A R Y CO B B

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C E N T R E

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 8 Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director

FEATU R ES 12 Twists of Fate Prasad Reddy, CEO of Twisted X, reveals how the brand is making inroads into the Western and casual lifestyle markets. By Greg Dutter 18 Trend Spotting The Fall ’18 boot preview rounds up the latest materials, hues, embellishments and silhouettes. By Aleda Johnson 42 Present Perfect Outdoor brands blend heritage styling with cutting-edge performance features to reach new heights. By Kirsten Koba 46 Chelsea Market Refined, rugged and reliable, the classic men’s Chelsea boot steps to the forefront this season. By Aleda Johnson 50 Sole Searching Sneakerboots, the latest haute hybrid, answers a growing demand for seasonal and style versatility. By Mariah Walker

PA G E

DEPA RTM ENTS 6 Editor’s Note

On the cover: Cougar pony hair sneakerboot. Photography by Trevett McCandliss; model: Elizabeth Annunziato This page: Photography by Mark Andrew/ Kate Ryan Inc,; stylist: Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; hair and makeup: Abraham Sprinkle/ Next Artists; model: Caleigh D./Women/360 Model Management; stylist’s assistant: Kiyana Panton

8 This Just In 10 Scene & Heard 41 A Note To My Younger Self This page: Sorel camo-print hybrid hikers, kimono by Tang Yi, Sloane & Tate bra and underwear, We Love Colors socks.

64 What’s Selling 66 Shoe Salon 68 Last Word

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Emily Beckman Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Kirsten Koba Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Mary Kang Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director Ana Novikova Office Administration OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 135 W. 20th St., Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

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ED ITOR’S NOTE

May the Force be with You

You Gotta Have Fate HAVING REPORTED ON this industry for close fortune on people as passionate, relentless and smart as Knight? Surely, it to 25 years, the routes successful companies take to wasn’t all divine intervention. The man was driven, or as William Ernest reach the promised lands never cease to amaze. Sure, Henley’s famous poem Invictus ends: “I am the master of my fate/I am the basics of great product, business fundamentals the captain of my soul.” Still, Knight needed to be saved at times. He and people with perseverance, passion, talent, wanted to name his company Dimension Six, not Nike, the Greek winged blood, sweat and tears are key ingredients. But an goddess of victory. Really? extra secret ingredient plays a role in many of these On a smaller scale, the turnaround tale of Twisted X—the upstart Western stories. Call it the fate factor. brand currently on an explosive seven-year growth Some might refer to it as luck, Tao, kismet, karma streak—is filled with similar twists and coincidences. or serendipity. Whatever the term, it comes down to It’s enough to make a cynic rethink his skepticism a timely, seemingly divine intervention that is later about the hand of fate. There’s even a devastating canonized as having saved the business or set it on a drought involved. It played a key role in how CEO new trajectory. Such catalysts often occur in mysteriPrasad Reddy, the subject of this issue’s Q&A (p. 12), ous ways. You can’t count on them to appear and you has led the struggling company to greener pastures. can’t manufacture one, but without them, many of the A native of India who lived in Michigan and had zero execs I’ve interviewed say their companies wouldn’t Western market experience receives an out-of-thehave survived, let alone succeeded. blue call from a colleague in Taiwan requesting help Take the rise of Nike, as told by Phil Knight in his to save a Texas-based company… No one—especially memoir, Shoe Dog. The Sneaker King tells of several not Reddy—could have envisioned how this success instances where the stars seemingly aligned to provide story would unfold. signs, guidance and reassurance as he led Nike from a Of course, there’s also the argument that fortune garage-sized importer of Japanese-made track shoes favors the bold. That the Lord helps those who help into the planet’s largest sportswear company. How themselves, if you want to put it in the context of else could the failed former door-to-door encyclopedia divine intervention. In other words, you’ve got to be salesman come to terms with what Nike has become—a sharp-eyed, smart and ready to spring into action when $100-billion entity generating $30-billion in annual fate deals you an ace. Benjamin Disraeli put it, “the sales that business schools now use as a case study of secret of success is to be ready when your opportunity Swoosh, there she is: Nike, the Greek goddess of victory. entrepreneurial excellence and corporate acumen? By comes along.” Or, to quote Life’s Little Instruction Book Knight’s own admission, even his best-laid business author H. Jackson Brown, Jr., “Opportunity dances plans—what began as his “Crazy Idea”—wouldn’t have succeeded if it with those already on the dance floor.” hadn’t been for a string of fateful occurrences along the way. Writing unlikely success stories never gets old. The players, settings, plot Perhaps it’s only natural to suspect greater forces have played a hand lines and twists on divine intervention serve as inspiring reminders that when your success surpasses your wildest dreams. Many of the world’s passionate people can come together and create something special. The greatest athletes and artists are quick to “thank God” for their record-setting stars sometimes align and, amid trade show halls filled with competitors, physical achievements and transcendent talents. How else to explain it? one company somehow rises above the rest. It’s a good reminder that fate We could all use a little divine intervention at times. But the question is, might be capricious and success elusive, but the harder you work, the does Lady Luck smile on just anyone, or is she more apt to bestow good luckier you’re likely to get.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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THIS JUST IN

the art of the heel The annual Art Basel Miami Beach provided the ideal backdrop for statement shoes. Photography by Marcy Swingle 8 footwearplusmagazine.com â&#x20AC;˘ january 2018

SCENE & HEARD

Sneaker Con Rocks

Gold Digging GOLD HAS LONG adorned the body from head to toe, as the mineral is central to sartorial expressions of status, power and wealth as well as linked to divinity and purity. Toronto’s Bata Shoe Museum is paying homage to this love affair with its latest exhibit, “The Gold Standard: Glittering Footwear from Around the Globe.” The collection showcases 35 styles, including gold-winged sandals of the Ancient Greek messenger god Hermes, ancient Egyptian gold funerary sandals, rare 16th century Italian chopines and gold Jeremy Scott x Adidas sneakers (top). In addition, the exhibit features examples of how gold has been used in Western culture, techniques for applying gold to shoes and a section on how the mineral is mined. “What we put on our bodies is never based on personal whim,” says Elizabeth Semmelhack, senior curator of the exhibit. “How we dress is very discursive, and by looking at the gold in footwear, you can see how people in positions of power used precious metals in ways that are exceptionally different from culture to culture.” Whether used for sacred or secular meanings, Semmelhack says gold has remained a popular adornment partly because it’s incorruptible. “Physically, it cannot be tarnished or lose its gleam,” she says, adding that the metal’s exceptional malleability makes it easy to work with and relatively inexpensive because it can be hammered leaf thin. “In a weird way, you get a lot of bang for your buck,” she says, noting that gold has been used ornamentally since the Bronze Age. Semmelhack’s personal exhibit favorite is the gold footwear (above) worn by society women during the early Great Depression. One might assume it was a way the rich flaunted their wealth during hard economic times, but that wasn’t the case, according to Semmelhack. Advice columns at the time advocated gold heels as a frugal choice. Gold was considered a neutral, so it was easily paired with any evening outfit. “In fact, the majority of our gilded evening footwear from that era is exceptionally worn out, so the advice was well taken,” she says.

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ALMOST 20,000 SNEAKERHEADS from around the world converged for the “The Greatest Sneaker Show On Earth” in New York last month. Attendees perused $1 billion worth of sneakers on display inside the Jacob K. Javits Center, where plenty of buying, selling, swapping and drooling over some of the hottest and rarest kicks occurred during the three-day event. The (predominantly young) crowd could authenticate kicks while hunting through more than 100 resellers exhibiting their collections. The event included the third annual Sneaker Con Hoops Classic, consisting of teams made up of some of the biggest sneaker content creators on YouTube, like Qias Omar, Benjamin Kickz and Mr. Foamer Simpson. All in all, Sneaker Con cofounder Yu-Ming Wu says this latest edition exceeded his wildest expectations and dreams. Back in 2009, what started out as an underground show staged in a small event space in Times Square that drew 600 people has exploded into 13 Sneaker Con shows a year, including stops in Atlanta, Chicago, Fort Lauderdale, London and Berlin. “We never thought we would ever get to taking over a good chunk of the Javits Center,” Wu says, noting that New York is the sneaker capital of the world. “We’re part of a community and have created a fun place for thousands of sneakerheads to be around like-minded people to trade, buy and sell shoes.” Wu credits much of Sneaker Con’s growth to adhering to its original mission: to create a community atmosphere where sneaker collectors, resellers and fans could find the shoes they love and have a great time doing so. “So many times I’ll be walking around one of our conventions and hear a young teen with his dad say, ‘This is the best day of my life!’” Wu says. “Hearing that makes us very happy.”

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BY GREG DUTTER

T W I S T S O F FAT E R u n n i n g f u l l g a l l o p o n g r o w t h , P r a s a d R e d d y, p r e s i d e n t a n d C E O o f Tw i s t e d X , r e v e a l s h o w t h e b r a n d i s m a k i n g e x t e n s i v e i n r o a d s i n t o t h e We s t e r n a n d c a s u a l l i f e s t y l e m a r k e t s .

UST HOW PRASAD REDDY came to be president of Twisted X eight years ago—and has since led the company out of bankruptcy to seven straight years of 30 percent–plus annual growth—can only be described as a twist of footwear fate. No one saw this coming, especially not Reddy. The rise of Twisted X from fringe Western boot player to rapidly evolving casual lifestyle brand is a serendipitous turnaround tale full of twists and turns as well as several market firsts. It’s a success story that proves basic brand management tenets apply regardless of market segment and, at the same time, how a fresh approach can be exactly what’s needed to spark growth. Here’s how the story goes: Reddy, who possessed nearly four decades of senior level executive experience working at Wolverine Worldwide, Freeman Shoes and K•Swiss, received a call in the fall of 2008 from a colleague in Taiwan in desperate need of his assistance. The friend had invested heavily in an upstart Texas-based Western company, Twisted X Boots (as it was then known), that was heading into bankruptcy. He held fast to the belief that the company still had potential. “There’s something there,” he told Reddy. He asked Reddy to look into it and consider helping. While Reddy had zero experience in the Western market, he had become a footwear fixer in the casual and athletic markets, adept at looking under the hood of companies, determining what was wrong and getting them running smoothly again. Following three days of diagnostics on Twisted X, Reddy agreed with his friend: “I liked the product, the niche and the owner [Bob Frazier]. There was something special there.” Reddy spent the next five weeks going over the company’s inner workings with a fine-tooth comb. “I looked at the numbers closely and concluded that we could turn this around,” he says. Reddy, who most recently had been consulting for a smattering of casual footwear brands and overseeing the completion of a temple in his adopted hometown of Grand Rapids, MI, officially

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2018

PHOENIX

O&A came on board as president in March of 2009. What he discovered was that many of the main ingredients for success were already in place at Twisted X, but the company was failing at the footwear business basics—badly. “I looked at costs and expenses and thought, ‘Oh my God, this is not run properly,’” Reddy says. Gross margins, for example, started at about 30 percent. “You can’t run a business that way. It has to be at least mid to high 40s,” he adds. “They either paid too much for the product or their wholesale prices were too low.” All in all, Twisted X was a twisted mess, structurally. “Its expenses were set up for a $100-million company in some areas and a $50-million one in others,” he says. “It just wasn’t the right structure.” That was all fixable, and Reddy What are you reading? I just saw tons of potential to build upon finished Phil Knight’s memoir, Frazier’s fresh, colorful and comfortShoe Dog. Our Australian disdriven premise for Western boot tributor gave it to me as a gift, making. “Bob had a strong boots saying it reminded him a little background; he had been at Justin of Twisted X. I’m also reading and Ariat beforehand,” Reddy says. You Can Win: A Step by Step “He’s a pure, good-hearted cowboy Tool for Top Achievers by Shiv with special design skills and a pasKhera. It’s great motivational sion for boots.” But it was Frazier’s advice. I’ve bought copies for commitment to comfort that won all our employees. Reddy over. “He believed in something that I’ve always believed in: What is your motto? Without Make the most comfortable product. getting too philosophical, I Period,” Reddy says. “He set himself hope that when I leave this apart by making comfortable Western world people remember me boots, which really had never been as having tried to make it a done before.” better place. On day one, Reddy set about upgrading operations to match the What was your first-ever paylevel of product. “We got back to the ing job? While studying for my fundamentals,” he says. “There were master’s degree, I packed fruit too many styles, not enough turn, too baskets during the holidays at many employees and expenses were a Stop & Shop. high.” Reddy slashed the number of styles from 275 to 125 and the If you could hire anybody, company renegotiated its contract who would it be? Phil Knight on a third-party warehouse, saving and Steve Jobs. Phil for obviapproximately $500,000 right off the bat. There was no sales increase that year—it actually went down a little bit— but the company, founded in 2005, made a profit for the first time in its history. Then came another twist of fate that same year—one that would set Twisted X on its explosive growth curve. A Southwestern drought had slowed the company’s sales to a trickle. Concerned, Reddy asked his team what was wrong, and they told him, “No one buys boots in this kind of weather.” Reddy knew that being dependent on one silhouette—especially one at the mercy of Mother Nature—was no long-term survival plan. “I told our controller, ‘Next year we’re not going to be making just boots. We’re going to introduce some footwear that will sell during the summer,’” he says. Twisted X introduced what Reddy calls the first “true casual shoes” in the Western market in January 2010. The momentous occasion, which came at the WESA show in Denver, had serious doubters at first—even within the company. “The day before the show, I showed the six casual styles and

three sandals to a couple of our reps who said, ‘Are you out of your mind? This is a Western industry show. Nobody buys shoes here.’” A few forwardthinking retailers, however, did. Reddy remembers the owner of David’s Western Store as one who saw the potential. “He said customers come in to buy boots, but then they go to a mall and buy athletic, casual and dress shoes. You’ve given me the opportunity to get that second sale.” Indeed, many of Twisted X’s core dealers have nabbed second and third sales thanks to the company expanding its casual offerings and introducing what Reddy claims was another Western market first: a steel toe work wallabee in 2013. Twisted X now offers men’s, women’s and children’s styles spanning casual, work and ous reasons and Steve because traditional Western categories. The he always thought outside the current breakdown is 55 percent box. I tell our team to try and casual, 30 percent work and 15 think differently all the time. percent traditional Western. Along It’s ok to fail, but learn from the way, Twisted X has expanded the mistakes. its distribution well beyond core Western dealers and experienced a Which talent would you most combined 750-percent sales increase like to have? To see clearly and over the past seven years. “We’re listen better. profitable, and we’ve had zero debt since 2015,” Reddy says, noting that What are three things you can’t the company dropped “Boots” from live without? Three Fs: family, its name three years ago. faith and friends. While few could have envisioned Reddy as the ideal candidate to take Who is your most coveted dinthe reins of a Western company, in ner guest? Bill Gates. He does hindsight he was exactly the right so much to make the world a person. An industry entrenched better place. He’s phenomenal. in product concepts and thought processes for decades was in dire What is your favorite homeneed of a fresh perspective—it just town memory? I come from a didn’t realize what was missing. small town outside Chennai in In all fairness, neither did Reddy southern India, and it’s just the until a drought forced him to think simple things like playing games outside the box. “It’s not like I had with friends with what little this vision of what to do going we had or taking a swim in the in,” he says, crediting his product local river. Life seemed so pure. background for the breakthrough. In that sense, Reddy did what he’s always done: He focused on the product. “Our goal is to introduce a new technology, concept or category every six months to try and stay ahead of the competition,” he says. It’s an intense pace, but Reddy believes it’s necessary in today’s uber-competitive market. “I tell our team I don’t mind failing 50 percent of the time on product,” he says. “If we don’t fail close to that much it means we’re not pushing hard enough.”

OFF THE CUFF

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Something new every six months is an ambitious pace, regardless of the market segment. It is, and it’s going to get harder as we go. (laughs) But we’ve done it so far, and we have something new set to be introduced through Spring 2019. We’re blessed to be working with a great freelance designer, Tuan Le. I’ve known him for a long time. He’s been rated as one of the top 10 footwear designers in the world over the course of his career. He’s done work for Mizuno, Ecco, Keen and Merrell, among others. We want to stay ahead by

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O&A introducing new technologies, and when you have the talent of someone like Tuan, why not go this route. Is it a case of innovate or die? How else are we going to maintain our growth? Also, the entire Western industry has woken up—all the big names have come out with casual shoe collections. We want to stay ahead of the competition with new technologies. What are some of the new technologies on tap? We have two new constructions for Spring ’18. A Western tooling wraparound construction that’s lightweight and offers optimal comfort. It’s like a vulcanized construction only without the weight. The other incorporates our leather soled driving moc construction into a sandal package. It’ll be something unique in the marketplace. Next fall, we’ll be introducing a new cushioning technology called Cloud. We’re also expanding upon our Eco Twx collection, which we introduced this fall. The collection features recycled plastic bottles as the upper material. We’re taking that concept to the next step: no glue or chemicals will be used in the entire Fall ’18 collection of Eco Twx. Twisted X is making a name for itself in a market that historically hasn’t introduced much newness, correct? Yes. It’s pretty much been the same old outsole, heel and shaft construction for years. The Western boot business, in general, has been declining between three and five percent every year over the last few years. It needs a catalyst. For example, when Urban Cowboy came out it caused a huge spike in sales. The market hasn’t had any such catalyst for quite a few years. I’m hoping a new technology can be that. It may not be huge like Urban Cowboy, but it’ll be something unique that can reverse the downward sales trend. Consumers are so accustomed to out-of-the-box comfort (think sneakers) that for traditional Western boots to make any meaningful rebound they have to be just as easy to wear. I agree, the comfort aspects must be there because the fashion element can only take us so far. Along those lines, a lot of our customers tell us that the minute they dismount their horse they put on our casual shoes. That’s where the idea came to put this type of comfort into our traditional Western boots. It’s taken some time, but Spring ’19 will be when we introduce the concept. You’ve worked for some pretty big companies over the course of your career. How big do you think Twisted X can become? I don’t know if there has to be a set limit to the brand. Our focus is to make comfortable footwear. Period. Comfort is going to be our leading feature, and not necessarily the look. That said, we are in a different niche; we’re not going to be making athletic shoes. Twisted X is a lifestyle brand with a Western heritage. Even our casual styles have some elements of Western. Our mission is to maintain that heritage while making the most comfortable footwear possible.

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In five years, how much bigger might Twisted X be? Twice the current size? I don’t see why we can’t be three to four times the size that we are today. We’ve grown 30 percent-plus every year for the last seven years, and we are at a 41-percent increase for this fiscal year, which ends in June. There’s plenty of runway in the Western-themed casual market? Yes. When I first came here, 80 percent of our sales were in core Western distribution. Now that segment accounts for one third of our sales. We’re getting more shelf space in that tier and, at the same time, we’re getting

lots more shelf space outside the core distribution. That’s a huge channel, as you know—100 times more than core Western.

with and don’t ask for a lot—like markdowns, chargebacks and such—but they have to be convinced to change even a little bit.

Who is the Twisted X consumer today? We’re reaching more and more casual lifestyle customers. In particular, younger people have been coming to the brand quite a bit of late, especially women. Typically, Western boot sales split 75 to 25 in favor of men. Right now, we’re almost even. But our women’s casual sales are growing unbelievably, which is helped by the fact that they tend to buy multiple pairs at a time. They like our comfort aspects, our colors and unique materials.

It really was a fortunate twist of fate that your friend called asking for your help to turn Twisted X around. I guess so. For sure, they didn’t need more of the same. But we’ve also went through our share of tough times. There were several times where it was dicey as to whether we would make it or not. In order to maintain growth in our industry, for every dollar increase in sales we need about 33 cents of capital to fund the inventories and receivables. At times it was a case of where are we going to get that 33 cents from? You can only borrow so much,and we had to pay off our debt. I remember speaking with one bank official in 2012, and he asked me what are we going to fund: our growth or paying off the debt? I told him I don’t have a choice; I have to pay both.

Every once in a while, a brand comes along that just stands out from the crowd. Twisted X is one of those brands. I agree. Coming from an athletic brand, when I suggested a few years ago that we put a solid color in the rubber outsole of a few women’s styles, at first people said, “We can’t do that.” I wanted to put teal in the soles, seeing that Nike and Adidas had been using color in its outsoles for a while and to great success. I said, “Why can’t we do it, too?” It’s been a huge success for us. Our mantra is we want to make boots and shoes that are unique, colorful and comfortable. In hindsight, an outsider like yourself has been the perfect fit for a market long been set in its ways. Yes. I suspect if a person with Western market experience had taken over Twisted X back in 2008, they probably could have made the company profitable by running the operations better. But product-wise, it probably wouldn’t have been all that different. And part of that reason is that many Western retailers are pretty set in their ways, too. They are very nice people to work

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How did you do it? Our accounts payable person would warn me about the looming deadlines. I always said we’d get through it. It helps that the people in our factories are good friends—many of whom I’ve worked with since the early ’90s and even before that in some cases. If I asked that they ship the goods but I’d pay three months later, they allowed it. They trusted that I was good for it. And sometimes I asked if they could just hold onto the product a little longer, and they did. We did what we had to do to survive. Speaking of just trying to survive, it’s been a struggle of late for many on both sides of the equation. Will 2018 be more of the same? It won’t be easy, but I think it’s an opportunity. To me, the biggest problem for brick-and-mortar stores is lack of traffic. If you don’t bring them >65

T R E N D SSPPOT OTTTIINNGG

VERY BERRY The mouthwatering shade ripens across a range of fall silhouettes. P h o t o g r a p h y b y Tr e v e t t M c C a n d l i s s 1. All Black 2. Trask 3. Khombu 4. FS/NY 5. Sorel, 6. Ecco 7. Walking Cradles 8. Easy Street.

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NORTHERN DELIGHTS Arctic-inspired design elements raise the cozy quotient to extreme. Clockwise from top right: Sanuk, Ecco, Cougar, Spring Step, Bearpaw, All Black.

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GRIME FIGHTERS S p o r t y, c o z y s n e a k e r b o o t s i n c i t y c h i c b l a c k t a m e a n y u r b a n j u n g l e . Clockwise, from top: Trask, Walking Cradles, Merrell.

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BUSY BOOTIES All-over flower prints transform basic boots into (flower) show stoppers. 1. J. Reneé 2. Bearpaw 3. Dr. Martens 4. Butter 4. L’Artiste by Spring Step

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P HOTO G RA P HY BY T R EV E TT M CCA N DL ISS

MEOW MIX Kitten heels offer the purrfect demure lift. 1. Rockport 2. Restricted 3. BC 4. Bella-Vita 5. Splendid

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SOCIAL CLIMBERS A l p i n e d e t a i l s e l e v a t e t h e t r a d i t i o n a l m e n’s h i k e r. Clockwise from top left: Timberland, Danner, Trask.

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KNIT FITS Sock booties cling on for another season. Clockwise from top: Restricted, FS/NY, J. Reneé.

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P HOTO G RA P H Y BY TR E VE T T MCCA N D LI SS ; P RO P STY LI N G BY R O B I N ZAC HA RY

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GOING GRAY The classic fall neutral never gets old. 8

1. Vionic 2. Butter 3. Minnetonka 4. Cougar 5. Antelope, 6. Restricted 7. Dansko 8. FS/NY

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NEW HEIGHTS Pe r f o r a t i o n s a n d c u t o u t s p r o v i d e t r a n s i t i o n a l s e a s o n a p p e a l . Clockwise from top left: Spring Step, Antelope, Merrell, Restricted.

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TUFF ENUFF Brawny boot classics built to last. Clockwise, from top left: Twisted X, Harley-Davidson, Keen.

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STUDS FINDER The metal embellishment adds a dose of ’tude to booties. From top: Cat, Bella-Vita, Rockport, Naot.

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SWISS MISS Alpine boot accents echo heritage hikers. 1. Cat 2. L’Amour Des Pieds 3. Cougar 4. Cole Haan 5. Merrell 6. Earth 7. Johnston & Murphy 8. Propét

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LATEST CRUSH Ruching on vamps and shafts add a (good) wrinkle. 1. Khombu 2. Bearpaw 3. Birkenstock 4. FS/NY 5. L’Amour Des Pieds 6. Spring Step

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TEXTURE MESSAGING Fe l t d e t a i l s s e n d a s o p h i s t i c at e d m e s s a ge . 1. Danner 2. Propét 3. Cat 4. Timberland 5. Johnston & Murphy

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BACK IN BLACK The perennial fall shade strikes a powerful chord—always. 1. Spring Step 2. Harley-Davidson 3. Bearpaw 4. Propét 5. Minnetonka 6. Ecco

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A N OT E T O M Y Y O U N G E R S E L F

HUSTLE AND FLOW John McPhe ters, cofounder and CEO of Stadium G oods, a N e w Yo r k s n e a k e r c o n s i g n m e n t b o u t i q u e , d e l i v e r s t h e D o s and Don’ ts that led to his dream job.

DEAR JDM, Right now, you’re 21 and the future is an unsolvable riddle, looming over your shoulder like a box you can’t open and a choice with only one right answer. Rather than take a leap, you focus on what’s right in front of you: hanging out with friends, running through train yards, throwing up tags, plotting out dreams and soaking up all of New York’s street culture. Know that all those experiences aren’t a waste of time. They make you who you will be. If you know that, maybe you’d gain the confidence to follow your passions even earlier than I did. I figured that out just 8 years ago, at age 30. That’s when I pivoted from media research to marketing and business development. That’s when I followed two of my passions—sneakers and streetwear—and opened Stadium Goods, a consignment mecca where our team sources, authenticates and curates the best selection from around the globe. It’s a dream job, and one that I do alongside my friend and business partner, Jed Stiller. Now how did you get here? First off, understand that it’s not as important to pick a destination as it is to develop the tools to get you there. Trust that if your fundamentals are in place and your foundation is strong, you’ll do great things no matter what route you take. Believe in yourself, but don’t believe you know all the answers. Here’s a Dos and Don’ts checklist for guidance. 1. Do the work and be humble. Work your way up through internships and entry-level jobs. Do the dirty work, and always ask for more. It’s the long game, but it separates the best from the rest. Your talent and hard work will make you shine, but humility makes you stand out. Provide value for people, first and foremost. 2. Do the side hustles. Living in New York, the access to power and culture comes at a high cost of living. Find alternate income streams. This is the new reality: you need a main job, part-time jobs and freelance gigs. The added financial buffer allows you to take more professional risks. The diverse projects also give you a creative outlet. I knew my heart wasn’t in media research when I was 30, so I kept creating side hustles. Even now as a successful business owner, I cultivate multiple income streams. If you can do this at a young age, you can avoid decisions made out of necessity. 3. Do find mentors. It’s important to find people you can learn from, inside and outside of your field. They can be friends, old professors and coworkers. Searching for mentors is a long-term journey that requires

time and effort. Don’t just surf through LinkedIn, asking executives to be your mentor. Work on building meaningful relationships that are mutually beneficial. For example, someone might have incredible experience but no time to follow the latest trends. Be their go-to grasshopper who always has his finger on the pulse—to be a sounding board, a talent scout, a sponge. Lastly, make sure you’re at a point in your life where a mentor’s advice can actually help you. 4. Don’t assume that the people are an endless resource for you to tap at will. Save requests and favors for things that are important, impactful and realistic. A pitch done right is focused, researched and states how the person might fit into your goals. It also respects the value of their time. 5. Don’t underestimate the power of community. As you build your career, the lines of social and professional will blur. I work with a network of friends that’s become an extended family of like-minded people. It’s not about liking the same music, going to the same bars or even working in the same field. Rather, find contemporaries who share your same work ethic, hunger, respect, moral code and family values. 6. Don’t have an unbalanced lifestyle. I’m still grappling with this one. Putting 110 percent into work and 110 percent into family leaves little on the table for diet, exercise and mental health. At age 21, that might sound like hipster nonsense. But neglecting any one of those things can bring all your dreams to a halt. Know that I’m going to focus a lot more on healthy habits in 2018. 7. Do appreciate life in every sense and understand how fragile it is. It’s easy to get carried away by your career and the status system in this industry. But as a man who started a family just one year before I started Stadium Goods, family comes above all else. Don’t blow past the special moments in pursuit of professional goals. Remember why you are working so hard. Nurture and enjoy friendships, as well. They are delicate and need water and sunshine. In all of life’s ups and downs—and trust me, there will be many—it’s the people around you who will carry you through. 8. Do be grateful at every stage in life. Whether you’re working in your dream job or just starting out, trust that you have the ability to direct your own destiny. Enjoy this journey and don’t be afraid to explore the road along the way. I’ll be right here with you.

2018 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 41

OU TDOO R RE TAIL E R P RE VIEW

Present Perfect BY KIRSTEN KOBA

BY CULLING FROM the past with heritage styling and looking to the future with daring tech innovations, outdoor brands are creating footwear that is completely of the moment. Whether designed for serious trekking, a walk in the park or a winter work commute, companies like Source by Naot, Danner, Rockport, Wolverine and Gore-Tex are delivering products and components that embed cutting-edge technology into stylish, time-tested silhouettes. Perhaps nothing is more au courant than a commitment to high manufacturing standards, and brands are delivering in spades via handmade construction, made in the U.S.A. cred and premium materials. Lightweight fabrications and innovative insulation solutions help brands effortlessly transition their designs from wilderness paths to city streets, embracing consumer’s desire for wearable technology in a stylish package.

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DANNER : HOMETOWN HERO As rugged outdoor styling—think traditional hiking boots, raw denim and well-worn flannel—continues to look equally at home on the streets of New York as on the mountain trails of the Pacific Northwest, Danner Footwear is poised to deliver on-trend, premium boots for men and women for Fall ’18. Celebrating an 85-year history of U.S. manufacturing, the brand is presenting its Portland Select Collection, which draws from its heritage and offers a modern take on classic Americana. “Today’s consumers want footwear for multiple situations: hiking in the mountains, trekking in the city and everything in between,” says Will Pennartz, senior marketing manager. “With roots in the Pacific Northwest, we build boots to withstand the most rugged conditions and terrain, but we realize people want to wear their boots in the city as well.” Danner aims to deliver that crossover appeal by combining timeless outdoor, work and military looks with performance features that make boots light enough for everyday use. New products include the Danner Ridge, which is 20 percent lighter than its Danner Light boot, from which it evolved. The Danner Ridge comes in sleek dark brown leather with green canvas siding and tan leather with gray canvas. Both the Danner Light and Danner Ridge integrate stitchdown construction, Vibram Kletterlift outsoles and breathable Gore-Tex waterproof liners. Also new for Fall ’18 is a re-release of Danner’s Feather Light Revival. Introduced in the early ’80s as one of the first fully waterproof Gore-TEex light hiking boots, the style was taken out of the line in the U.S. less than 10 years later. However, it stayed strong in Japan and gained a cult following in Tokyo

as a fashionable hiker. “The new version is very true to the original, but it incorporates more premium leather and abrasion-resistant textiles, along with improved midsole materials and a rugged Vibram outsole,” Pennartz says. In a nod to the brand’s commitment to quality, if the sole wears down or the shoe needs repair, it can be re-crafted by Danner’s team in Portland. According to Pennartz, the Portland Select collection, which first launched for Fall/Winter 2016, has been well received at retail partners like Kith, Nepenthes, Huckberry, United by Blue, Westerlind, Topo Designs, Ball and Buck, Tanner Goods, Paragon Sports and Backcountry. In addition, over the past year Danner has opened up distribution in the U.K., with accounts including End, Kafka and Outsiders, and created a pop-up shop at Huus Hotel Gstaad, a high-end chalet style hotel in the Swiss Alps. He believes the line, which retails for between $300 and $400, is successful largely because, “The world is tired of disposable footwear, and we feel the Portland Select collection offers consumers a viable alternative.” Danner intends to continue expanding its U.S.-made offerings while growing distribution worldwide. Pennartz believes it’s about giving the people what they want: “He or she appreciates premium craftsmanship, timeless style and USA-made manufacturing,” he says, noting its women’s Mountain Light Cascade has been a top-seller since Reese Witherspoon’s character sported a pair in the film, Wild. “The Portland Select collection creates an opportunity for our designers to celebrate our rich history manufacturing footwear in the United States,” Pennartz says. “To say making boots in the U.S. is important to Danner is an understatement; it’s part of our identity.”

SOURCE BY NAOT : A LOVE STORY Taking it slow may just be the best advice for growing a healthy relationship. At least the old-adage holds true for two beloved Israeli brands, Naot and Source, which have recently turned a 25-year flirtation into a robust partnership. Stemming from a shared passion for technological innovation and handmade craftsmanship, the new Source by Naot platform promises to deliver high-tech outdoor shoes to the U.S. market. The partnership is entering its first season for Spring ’18 with amphibious sandals designed by Source and distributed by Naot, to be followed by co-designed winter collection that draws from the strengths of each brand. “This has been a love affair of mine for the last 25 years,” says Steve Lax, CEO of Naot. After first meeting at Outdoor Retailer over two decades ago, Source approached Lax about becoming the brand’s U.S. distributor. However, at that time Lax was representing 75 percent of Naot’s business, posing a potential conflict. That dynamic changed in 2014 when Lax purchased Naot. When Source approached him again in 2017 about partnering, he was eager to finally make it work. “I think the brand has incredible tech advantages over everything else in the market, and every third Israeli owns a pair,” Lax says. “In Israel, Source is almost as synonymous with footwear as Naot is.” Naot offers some 700 styles of fashionable comfort shoes, sandals, boots and clogs, all defined by cork and latex insoles, yet this marks the first time it has ventured into the outdoor performance market. “At Naot we have a shoe for every part of your day, and now we are covering another part of people’s lives,” Lax says. Source will also offer a new price point. “When you are dealing with cork and latex it raises the price,” he says. “Here, we can compete at lower price point.” Retailing at $60 to $125, the vegan, handmade, fully traceable Source by Naot sandals are designed to stand up to every kind of terrain whether hiking, climbing, river crossing or navigating city streets. Among a bevy of technological innovations, the soles are tested to be “twice as strong as the best U.S. tire on the market and three times as strong as the competition,” according to Lax, who adds, “We are 100-percent sure that unless you run them over with a lawnmower, the sole will hold up.” As long as a green dot on the three-ply outsole is present within two years from date of purchase, defective shoes can be exchanged. Similarly, Lax says Source uppers are guaranteed to hold up. Instead of gluing, the straps are sewn attached. What’s more, they are made from ultra-quick drying polypropylene webbing and hold over 1,200 pounds of pressure. “Source has had people doing chin-ups hanging from the sandal straps,” Lax says. “The strapping is so strong that you can’t rip it apart.” The straps—available in a range of patterns including purple triangles, retro green and tribal red—are connected through a patented X system with six anchoring points that hold feet in place and prevent ankles from turning. As compared to other outdoor sport sandals, Lax says Source may look similar but it’s like comparing a “jet engine to a Model T.” In addition to cutting-edge tech, Naot and Source share a deep love for manufacturing in Israel—a love that fuels their factories. “We have people from every race, religion and color working together as a family in both of our factories,” Lax says. “We’re trying to support peace through our shoes.”

ROCKPORT : WALK THIS WAY Rockport, the brand that created the walking category in the ’80s, is now inspiring a new generation to get walking. While its latest franchise, dubbed “Let’s Walk,” is brimming with technological innovations, these revamped walking shoes bear little outward resemblance to the classic brown lace-ups that solidified Rockport as a leader in the comfort realm decades ago, not to mention the poster child for dad style. Let’s Walk, a modernization of Rockport’s acclaimed Pro Walker line, was created to “shake up the market,” according to John Daher, senior vice president of product development at The Rockport Group. “They are really well designed inside and out, with a look that works across many wearing occasions,” he says. The chic, dual-gender collection debuting for Fall ’18 speaks to customers’ demand for style and use versatility. The slip-ons and lace-ups reflect the ongoing strength of athleisure, with pops of metallic leather; rich suede in shades of blue, tan and gray; high-tech upper detailing; and rubber outsoles with translucent pods that reveal the comfort technology within. “We wanted to incorporate athleisure, which as we all know is a growing trend in the casual business, but we didn’t want the shoes to look like something you’d wear to the gym,” Daher says. “We wanted them to be something you could wear all day long, whether you are walking, using them casually or going to work. The look is so relevant in today’s age.” Let’s Walk is built upon Rockport’s proprietary “Integrated Motion Technology,” a seven-layer system with a nested spring chassis at its core. The chassis has an interlocking dome architecture designed to absorb and return energy in every step so that walkers can go that extra mile. It is coupled with a TPU center plate encapsulated in a lightweight rubber sole with OrthoLite memory foam insole. “This makes for a really comfortable, all-day walking shoe,” Daher says. “It’s also fully leather lined from toe to heal, so it encompasses the foot in a wonderful way and offers a climate control system that works really well.” The commitment to technical innovation is nothing new for Rockport. The company was founded more than 40 years ago with a vision of using sports technology to create ultimate comfort in dress and casual shoes. Daher notes that when The Rockport Group became a standalone company again two years ago, the team wanted to “harken back to the days of our innovation,” and Daher has created a business unit exclusively devoted to innovation that works outside of the normal product calendar. “We are tasked with developing programs like ‘Let’s Walk’ in order to make an impact in the comfort shoe industry,” he says. The Let’s Walk collection will retail for $140 to $150 and will be sold at Rockport’s premium retailers worldwide. According to Daher, “It will be a big play for comfort specialty dealers in the States.” Beginning in August 2018, Let’s Walk will also be available online with select accounts and available at all of Rockport’s direct-to-consumer (DTC) channels. Let’s Walk will be a focus in Rockport’s branded environments and the company plans a full-fledged marketing program next fall that Daher says will, “inspire consumers to get out and walk again and enjoy the journey.”

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GORE-TEX : FASHIONABLY WARM As winter winds pick up and temperatures plummet, there arises an age-old dilemma most women can understand: whether to wear bulky boots that weigh down the feet and are sweltering indoors, or stylish shoes that leave toes freezing during the morning commute. Gore-Tex has sought to end this conundrum and make its mark in the women’s casual shoe market. For Fall ’18, the company is introducing a new class of ultra-thin footwear insulation dubbed Thermium as part of its recently unveiled Gore-Tex Infinium program. Expanding beyond Gore-Tex’s “waterproofness” base, Infinium represents a burgeoning focus on comfort and protection. “The idea is that we’re moving beyond waterproof, and coming up with different products that people can use in their everyday lives,” says Farra D’Orazio, spokesperson. “We’re moving from outdoor to outside.”

According to Steve Rosenberg, Gore-Tex global product manager, Infinium is a new brand architecture that allows the company to expand its market base and focus on needs like better insulation in stylish everyday footwear. “It’s great to talk technical but at the end of the day style matters most, and many women won’t compromise it,” he says. “If you can give them style with warmth and comfort, that’s a really great sell.” An innovative insulation that is seven times more efficient than a comparable amount of loft insulation and as thin as typical footwear leather, Thermium has a unique ability to provide superior warmth in slim silhouettes. “We were trying to find a solution where insulation isn’t big and bulky and can be fit into the wardrobe you have,” Rosenberg says. To create Thermium, Gore-Tex leveraged its deep knowledge about how to use expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE), and combined the polymer with Aerogel technology. Developed by NASA for uses like helping shuttles re-enter the atmosphere, Aerogel is an incredible insulator, but without the added element of ePTFE it is brittle and difficult to manipulate. The result is an even, pliable and compressionresistant insulator that can be cut and treated like leather and applied to shoes in a way that doesn’t compromise style. Through advanced thermal-mapping, Gore-Tex confirmed that toes are the first area to feel cold, and realized that by concentrating insulation in the toe box, it is possible to warm the entire foot without sacrificing a shoe’s silhouette.

“THERE’S NOTHING LIKE GETTING THE RESPONSE FROM WOMEN ON A COLD DAY WHO SAY, ‘THIS ABSOLUTELY MADE A DIFFERENCE IN MY LIFE.’” While Gore-Tex first began looking into this technology more than a decade ago, it was only within the last three years that the company delivered on the concept with Thermium. In addition to extensive testing in its advanced climate chamber at its Maryland-based biophysics lab, the company conducted on the ground trials in the Midwest and Europe. “There’s nothing like getting the response from women on a cold day who say, ‘This absolutely made a difference in my life,’” Rosenberg says. Gore-Tex plans a limited introduction of Thermium, rolling out with Ecco this for Fall ’18. It will also launch specifically in Italy with Frau, which has been a development partner throughout the process. “Working with fashion-forward companies during development made sure we could integrate our technology into not only the basic ankle boot, but into really fashion forward shoes,” Rosenberg says, adding that the technology is incredible yet nearly invisible. “I can’t overstate how revolutionary this approach is,” he says. “We are going to make you feel better without changing the look of your shoe.”

WOLVERINE : EXTREME INNOVATION For Fall ’18, Wolverine continues its 130-year tradition of crafting intrepid outdoor boots for people who work hard, play hard and, through it all, brave the elements. Now, with the integration of new cutting-edge technology into the mix, consumers won’t just brave the elements, but may even welcome cold, wet days, according to Yahn Lebo, product line director. That includes the incorporation of PrimaLoft Aerogel insulation in the Glacier Xtreme and Crossbuck Xtreme hikers. Aerogel technology offers heightened levels of warmth and breathability by using millions of air pockets to form a thermal blockade that provides comfort in both extreme cold and heat. “PrimaLoft Aerogel is almost weightless and is the best insulator on the market right now because it is non-compressible,” Lebo says, noting that traditional insulations, when compressed, minimize the warming capabilities, particularly around the toes. “Even in the face of pressure from active use, the Aerogel insulation maintains 96 percent of its original thermal performance over time.” Lebo adds that both styles boast 360-degree insulation around the entire foot, as well as under the footbed for extra cold protection. Built for extreme weather conditions, the Glacier Xtreme is a tall hiker available in waterproof premium full-grain black or brown leather with pops of suede and an encased heel counter and toe. Its Vibram Arctic Grip Pro outsole is resistant to the slickest conditions, including oil, water and chemicals. The Crossbuck Xtreme, which is replete with a Vibram Arctic Grip outsole and a moisture wicking mesh lining, is available in a black and brown premium waterproof full-grain leather combo. “We wanted to continue the Arctic Grip story, because we’ve received positive consumer feedback,” Lebo says, adding that being light weight is essential, not only for hardcore hikers, hunters and adventurers, but for urban dwellers who want iconic outdoor styles that can be worn throughout the day. “The Glacier and Crossbuck Xtreme (suggested retail is $220 and $210 respectively, and backed by Wolverine’s 30-day comfort guarantee) are both great boots because they can fit the needs of many people. Serious outdoor enthusiasts will be able to capitalize on all the benefits of the technologies in the boots like warmth and traction, while city dwellers have a boot with rugged styling and performance features. Simply put, these are the warmest work and hunting boots for their weight.” •

ON THE TOWN On him: Florsheim leather-soled boots, Express blazer and pants, H&M turtleneck and socks. Top to bottom: Vionic, T.B. Phelps.

CHELSEA MARKET

DRESSED UP OR DOWN, THE CLASSIC SILHOUETTE IS A GUYSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; CLOSET STAPLE.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

BAND PRACTICE Top to bottom: Johnston & Murphy, Bearpaw, Trask. C.P Company knit beanie, Barking Irons distressed denim jacket and graphic tee, H&M jeans.

ON THE JOB Top to bottom: Naot, Ecco, Joules. Selected Homme scarf, sweater and blazer, Krammer & Stoudt shoulder bag, H&M jeans.

INTO THE WOODS On him: Birkenstock lug-soled boots, Selected Homme knit beanie and denim jacket, Life After Denim hooded sweatshirt, H&M distressed jeans and socks. Top to bottom: Merrell, Danner.

Styling by Katie Belloff Model: Andrew M./Red Model Mgmt. 49

Bearpaw sweater knit sneakerboot, Marimekko shirt, feather earring by Seventh House PR. 50

Vintage jacket by Yves Saint Laurent, MKT shirt, Zynni Cashmere skirt, Vintage Burberry tie (used as belt), Tia Cibani hat, Seventh House PR bracelets, Babs & Brent rings. Opposite: Faux croc Xsensible hi-top, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Amour Des Pieds snakeskin print leather bootie.

Clockwise from top: New Balance quilt-trimmed sneakerboot, Walking Cradles bootie, sheepskin-lined desert boot by Bella-Vita, dress by Manoush, We Love Colors bodysuit, Babs & Brent bracelet. 54

Top to bottom: Camo-print boot by Sorel, Alpine-inspired hiker by Rockport, Tia Cibani turtleneck, Sarah Swan vest, MKT pants. Opposite: Ecco sneakerboots with fur trim, MKT jumpsuit, Sloane & Tate t-shirt, vintage tie (used as belt). 57

Hair and makeup: Abraham Sprinkle/Next Artists; model: Caleigh D./Women/360 Model Management; stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Kiyana Panton 58

Restricted sneakerboots with fur lining, Izipizi glasses. Opposite: moon bootinspired hiker by Earth.

S H O W C A S E FALL ’1 8

Cougar’s Fall ’18 collection draws inspiration from around the world to create fashion forward looks built for multi-seasonal wear. The “Dani” comThe full cow suede Dana boot’s gentle ruching offers a stylish, slouchy appeal

bines genuine rabbit fur, supple suede and rugged Iceland leather to craft a

that is accented with grommets and draped fringe on a lateral shaft. Additional

distinctive cold weather silhouette. Always waterproof construction coupled

features include a wool blend lining, sheepskin comfort footbed on a sturdy

with a lightweight sport-inspired outsole delivers unmatched style and

blown-rubber wedge and NeverWet water-resistant protection. Come see us at

versatility—whatever the weather. Visit us at FFANY, Outdoor Retailer, FN

FFANY, Outdoor Retailer, The Atlanta Shoe Market and FN Platform.

Platform and select regional shows across North America.

www.bearpaw.com

www.CougarShoes.com

The new Exostrike by ECCO combines fully functional outdoor attributes with the style of a street-smart sneaker. As a fast hiking product, the Exostrike allows you to get outdoors and hit the trail quickly. This inno-

Walking Cradles introduces the METRO collection, a new line of urban

vative product range is a true

casual sneakers inspired and designed by women on the move! Available

representation of the new look,

in 60 sizes and widths, each pair comes with removable Tiny Pillows

stylized outdoor movement. Visit

insoles that massage feet with every step. Perfect for the woman who

us at Outdoor Retailer (#42043-UL), The Atlanta Shoe Market,

wants to be comfortable and effortlessly chic! Come see us at FFANY, The

FN Platform and select regional shows.

Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform and all major reginal shows.

www.ecco.com

www.walkingcradles.com

Birkenstock offers sandals, clogs, shoes and arch supports all based on

Restricted Footwear focuses on edgy elements of design and unique silhou-

our original contoured cork latex footbed for women, men and children.

ettes while presenting eye-catching details to the fashion-forward consumer.

Birkenstock products are made in Germany, since 1774, and reflect our

The smart shoppers who like to combine fashion and comfort with quality

key values of health and wellness, quality, craftsmanship and

and a great price always look to Restricted for the latest shoe inspirations.

environmental sensibility. Visit us at Outdoor Retailer,

Visit us at FFANY, The Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform, Atlanta Apparel,

The Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform and FFANY.

Chicago Shoe Market, Dallas STRUT and many other regional shows.

www. birkenstock.com

www.restrictedshoes.com

60 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2018

At Earth, every small step counts. We care about our home and our planet, EasyWorks by Easy Street are designed for modern professionals.

and we believe following a path to wellness includes making our Earth a healthier

The collection features slip- and oil-resistant soles and the exclusive

place for all. From doing our part with more responsible shoe making, to

EasyMotion Pro-Comfort System, where the innovative fusion of

designing shoes that have your physical well-being top-of-mind, to partnering with

orthotic styling meets anti-fatigue comfort technology. Available in 35

Trees.org…Earth is a company with a conscience and a mission to do better—

sizes and three widths. Come see us at FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe

step by step, day by day. See us at Outdoor Retailer, FFANY, FN Platform

Market and all regional shows.

and The Atlanta Shoe Market.

www.easystreetshoes.com

www.earthbrands.com

The Carly features a waterproof construction with Aquastop membrane as well as a breathable waterproof insole. Soft mellow leather uppers meet a wrapped embossed leather heel, and large oversized eyelets and

Staheekum makes luxurious, comfortable indoor and outdoor slippers for

velvet lace round out the aesthetic with a classic “Audrey” retro look.

men and women. This men’s Salish slipper in soft cow suede features a warm

Come see us at Outdoor Retailer, FFANY, FN Platform, The Atlanta

shearling lining and memory foam insole. If they’re not Staheekum, don’t keep

Shoe Market and all major regional shows.

’em! Come see us at Outdoor Retailer, NBS, FN Platform and BSTA.

www.bosandco.com

www.staheekum.com

Finn Comfort is the undisputed leader in healthy, natural comfort footwear for the sophisticated set. Skillful, old world European craftsman-

Naot’s superbly crafted products demonstrate a response to the

ship combined with medical know-how and state-of-the-art modern

compelling need for healthy, comfortable and fashionable footwear. At

technologies give our shoes unparalleled quality, trademark support and

the same time, Naot’s unfailing commitment to integrity makes quality

world-class comfort. Each shoe is meticulously handcrafted exclusively in

customer service the highest priority. There is nothing like the original,

Germany according to the most rigorous quality standards. Visit us at FN

and your feet can tell! Come see us at Outdoor Retailer (#49129-UL), Surf

Platform, TRU Show, Sole Commerce, The Atlanta Shoe Market, Michigan

Expo (#2140), FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe Market (Galleria room

Shoe Market, BSTA and Chicago Shoe Market.

#106), BSTA and Chicago Shoe Market.

www.finncomfort.com

www.naot.com 2018 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 61

S H O W C A S E FALL ’1 8

PerfX is an exclusive Jones & Vining breathable Camtrade Footwear designs and distributes two unique

Polyurethane (PU)

women’s footwear brands. Secret Celebrity features updated and stylish

footbed formulation that gives

modern designs with a “City Chic” flair at accessible prices. Soft Comfort

superior comfort without

stands for style, comfort and fit, perfect for the sporty and contemporary-

breaking down. At 30-percent less weight than conventional PUs, PerfX

casual lifestyle. SRP $49 to $79, both brands are available at fine retail-

out performs all lightweight footbed options. PerfX also features Hi-Def

ers and e-tailers across the country. Visit us at The Atlanta Shoe Market,

molding capabilities. Come see us at the NE Materials Show, Wilmington,

FFANY and FN Platform.

MA, Jan. 30-31 and the NW Materials Show, Portland, OR, Feb. 7-8, 2018.

www.camtradeinc.com

www.jonesandvining.com

Propét takes a great amount of pride in offering a diverse footwear line

Wolky has been perfecting the artisan craft of shoemaking for

with a full range of sizes and widths to ensure a perfect fit for miles of

well over 30 years through use of old and new techniques. Combined,

comfort. Our designs, crafting and material selections are carefully chosen

Wolky has more than a century’s worth of experience. It is noticeable

to create footwear that provides for proper healthy foot function. Visit us

with its exceptional quality and comfort. For Fall ’18, we will

at FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe Market, Outdoor Retailer (#46166-UL)

introduce new collections and showcase signature styles. Keep an eye out

and Chicago Shoe Market.

for previews and stop by all regional shows.

www.propetusa.com

www.wolky.com

Softino’s new Aku style’s wedge sole provides uncommon Bella-Vita designs all its shoes for consumers to exclaim, “It’s a beautiful

comfort through inside coring technology that helps absorb shock and

life!” For Fall ’18, the Clementine espadrille oxford with its adorable, breezy

cushions every step. Butter soft leathers combined with light, flexible

cut-out canvas detail design embodies an easy-to-wear warm weather style.

cushion memory foam technology and the revolutionary “on steam” anti-

Adjustable laces allow for a customizable fit. The shoe is available in sizes

bacterial microfiber lining keeps you comfortable no matter the season.

5-12, widths narrow through WW and open-stock—as always. Come see us

Come see us at Outdoor Retailer, FFANY, FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe

at FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe Market and all regional shows.

Market and all major regional shows.

www.easystreetshoes.com

www.softinos.com

62 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2018

W H AT’S SELLI NG

Outdoor Speciality

UNCLE DAN’S Chicago, IL

HE FIRST UNCLE DAN’S OUTFITTERS opened in 1972 with the mission of equipping Chicagoans with everything they’d need to explore the great outdoors. Founder and avid outdoorsman Brent Weiss had previously worked at his uncle Dan’s Army Navy surplus shop, which he took over and converted into an outdoor specialty store named for the man who inspired his dreams. “I remember looking at an old flyer that read, ‘We get you anything you desire,’ and that’s still pretty true today,” says Carla Arias, vice president of retail operations for the now five-store chain. “We listen to the customer and take pride in giving them a great experience, which is lost on most retailers the bigger they get.” Uncle Dan’s stores range in size from its new 3,000-square-foot store (opened last month) to the largest at 6,000 square feet. Each is stocked with leading outdoor apparel and footwear brands like Hunter, Keen, Merrell, Vasque, Western Chief and Sorel. The mix is ideal for a clientele battling windy, icy Chicago winters and wherever their travels may take them. “People want a boot that’s not ugly but very warm,” Arias says, adding that many of its customers take adventure travel trips and need footwear that can easily transition from soil to sidewalk. “With baggage restrictions these days, people are looking for that one shoe that can transcend many avenues,” she says. Despite the challenges presented by online dealers, Arias says the key to Uncle Dan’s longevity is its great selection and a dedicated staff who know— and use—the merchandise. “My staff does a great job at determining what a customer needs and matching him or her with the right product,” she says. “We take pride in listening to our customers and giving them great service.” How’s business of late? Other than gifts, our business in the winter is heavily dependent on snow or cold weather. Up until November, we were at a good pace to outshine last year, but sales levelled off a little because we had several 50-degree days in December. We have our foot in online sales as well, however, so we’re still on the plus side. What are your top-selling brands? Merrell has been pretty great for us because their new Arctic Grip sole is very popular. They keep people from slipping on the ice during Chicago winters. Certain women’s Keen styles have also been big as have some Sorel boots, which are really cute. Chaco sandals have been another huge growth segment during warmer weather.

64 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2018

What is your best-selling accessories category? Socks, hands down. We sell a ton of Smartwool, and I wear them every day. They’re a really easy add-on for anything footwear related, except for sandals. Even though some people still do that. What’s been the best new brand added to your mix in the past year? We’ve dabbled a little in Salomon because it looks like a gym shoe, but it’s actually a hiking shoe. We’re always looking to expand with something our customers want. Any trends you are eying in particular for Fall ’18? A little on the younger side, youthful hikers that transfer between daily use and hiking. Keen’s Targhee boot has done well because you can go trekking and walk around town in them as well. What is your fastest growing footwear segment? We’re seeing more people taking adventure trips, and they range in age from 16 to 70. So versatile footwear for urban adventurists. Our customers travel often, whether it’s a weekend trip, hiking in Colorado or trekking in Antarctica. We cater to a wide array of people. I say Amazon and you say? We actually do a little bit of business on Amazon, so I can see the positives and negatives. But it is more challenging because people are more cognizant of pricing. If they’re in the store already, we don’t want to lose them. My employees are key in keeping them. They’re what separates us from Amazon, so I make sure my best people are on our front lines. What is the biggest challenge facing Uncle Dan’s right now? We need to offer better customer experience in every facet to battle the threat of online competition. Whether it’s growing our stand-up paddle business in the summer or expanding our adventure programming through classes and events to give customers the best experience possible. What’s your take on brands that are ramping up their direct-to-consumer platforms? I think it widens their customer base, but I’m not too scared. It makes many customers want to try on the product in-store, and they often end up buying it here because of our service. My staff does a great job at determining customer needs and matching them with the right product. Where do you envision Uncle Dan’s in five years? I hope to be everywhere. I hope that one day people can walk down the street in New York and see one of our stores. I definitely think we’ll continue to grow both our online and store presence by offering great customer service, like we have since day one.

O&A “ We d o n ’ t s e l l d i r e c t t o c o n s u m e r, because we don’ t want to be in competition with o u r r e t a i l e r s .”

Designed for walking www.wolky.com

-–-– –-–-–-–-– FEATHER

LIG –-–-–-–-–-–-–

Range 01362 Hayden

continued from page 17 in, you can’t sell them anything. You must find ways to bring them in. We strongly believe in cause-related marketing campaigns as a way to help increase in-store traffic. Four years ago, we teamed with the “Tough Enough to Wear Pink” campaign in support of breast cancer awareness and, three years ago, we became a corporate sponsor for VFW and Snowball Express. (The latter supports the children of military member parents who have died in war.) They are all phenomenal organizations. So why not host a Pink Weekend and invite breast cancer survivors to talk to the local population and raise awareness and funds. Or, during the stretch between Memorial Day and Independence Day, retailers could offer a portion of proceeds to benefit the local VFW chapter and/or Snowball Express. We’ll provide a free U.S. Constitution booklet with purchase. Eco Twx offers another example. We are going to plant a tree for every pair we sell. Why not invite the community and local press for a tree planting ceremony? They are all potential ways to bring customers into stores. My bigger point is: if you don’t do something different, you’re probably not going to survive. About three years ago, I predicted that 25 percent of the mom and pop Western retailers would likely go out of business. Unfortunately, that has come true. I think it’ll keep happening, unless they embrace new trends and become more involved in experiential retailing. I remember when Journeys first came out, it was total unique concept at the time. Loud music and a totally fresh vibe that became a draw for teenagers. I believe if you create something unique and experiential, consumers will come. It helps if retailers are not all selling the same brands and styles that can just as easily be purchased online—and likely for less. Does Twisted X sell exclusive by tier? We protect our retailers with some exclusive products for at least six months so they can generate better margins. We’ve been doing that for about two years, whether it’s new categories, technologies or styles. It’s been well-received, and we want to do more of that going forward. We are developing a lot more prototypes with different materials that we think we can distinguish better between our retailers. Of course, we run up against some retailers who only ask for our five top sellers. That creates a challenge. And it’s not only them. A lot of salespeople begin a meeting by showing their five top-selling styles as a safe presentation. I hate that kind of presentation. Actually, it’s the opposite of safe. Yes. I tell our salespeople all the time to avoid that approach. When Nike announced recently it will cut back drastically on retail distribution, what did that say to you? It’s an opportunity. Why might a retailer choose Twisted X over another

RestrictedShoes.com | 626.961.8889

EDITOR’S PICKS

Butter

D E S I G N E R C H AT

SOMETIMES ALL IT takes is a droll dinner party to bring two unlikely business partners together. Neither one particularly wanting to be in attendance, Mary Alice Malone and Roy Luwolt restlessly got to talking about her studies at the Cordwainers program at the London College of Fashion and his legacy as a venture capitalist in the luxury sector. “I accidentally offended a few of the labels that Roy had been influential in starting up, so we argued that night,” Malone says. “But after butting heads with each other initially, we discovered a shared love of rebellious creation, craft and distinct form.” Luwolt stayed up that same night, drawing a comprehensive business plan, and Malone Souliers was born. Their debut collection came in the fall of 2014, and since then the luxury footwear label has exploded onto the couture circuit worldwide, according to Luwolt, now managing director. He reports 2017 sales were up a meteoric 275 percent over the previous year with sell-through rates far exceeding industry standards. He credits a “needlework wholesale strategy” with a focus on localization for contributing to the success. In addition, it’s the brand’s dedication to understated sexy—no matter the style, color or silhouette—that is resonating with women. “Our approach to shoes is this tension between conceal and reveal,” Malone says, adding that shoes should have some intrigue. “Some shoes can be too exposed, and that’s something I’ve always shied away from because I don’t think it connects as much with the innate femininity of the wearer. I like when there’s substance and intrigue to a shoe; that’s where the beauty comes from.” Daring laces, pencil-sharp stilettos, buttery-soft suedes and a vivid palette are just a few of the signature features of Malone Souliers. Another design trademark: comfort. With Malone’s training in furniture making and welding, the creative director crafts each style first architecturally (heels are positioned down to the millimeter) then aesthetically. “We’re often told that our heels are the most comfortable—the utmost testament to our insistence on architectural shoemaking,” Malone says. “As a woman, being on both the development and usage sides of the dynamic, it would simply be unkind for me to make any of shoe uncomfortable.” —Aleda Johnson Who is the quintessential Malone Souliers woman? We have a particularly identifiable silhouette, which is consistently femi-

66 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2018

Summit by White Mountain

Bella-Vita

MY PEEPS! Versatile and transitional, peep-toe booties can be dressed up or down, for day or night. Manic ures not included.

nine, be it day or evening wear, formal or casual, daughter or mother. I design for an integrally specific woman, hence only in attitudinal embodiment. We do not care where she comes from, whether she’s a student, mother or banker. We are more fascinated by the woman or girl who is unapologetically herself.

anatomy. Comfort is key. I want women to be comfortable standing, and I want them to have a natural gait when they walk. Part of the beauty of high heels is a woman in motion. They need to be functional before they can be beautiful. There is technology to adhere to before you can come to the pretty lines and pretty colors.

What’s the theme of your Spring ’18 collection? I drew inspiration from the surrealism of fairy tales, the timeless space of reckless imagination, the expression of that which exists somewhere, somehow, eternally. The collection features rich moire trim and metallic Nappa leather in vibrant emerald, turquoise and electric blue hues complemented by bold mustard tones.

Any designers you admire? In terms of admiration and inspiration, I tend to look beyond fashion, but I must highlight the archives of Manolo Blahnik. The man is a pioneer in matters of cordwaining.

Any hints on Fall ’18’s theme? One of my main sources of inspiration is the human

What do you love most about designing shoes? I love the human interaction in shoemaking. You’re making this object that someone will put on, that could change their self-confidence, their outlook, their day and even possibly their life. Maybe they just got a new job wearing your shoes.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

MALONE SOULIERS

O&A brand? Well, here’s three reasons. One, we don’t sell directly on Amazon as we try to be price protective. Two, we don’t sell direct to consumer, because we don’t want to be in competition with our retailers. Three, we are working on cause-related marketing initiatives events to help bring traffic into their stores. We want to grow hand in hand with our retail partners.

Enjoyed this issue of Foot wear Plus?

Meanwhile, many brands are consolidating their retail accounts and ramping up DTC platforms. Why go against the grain here? First off, with respect to DTC efforts, 90 percent of the time they start out with good intentions—like it’s going to help market the brand to a wider audience, showcase the full range of styles product, etc. But from what I’ve seen, almost every time it becomes a discount site that competes with retailers. And every one of those sales—full price or at a discount—comes at the expense of one of their retail partners. Exactly. I understand the temptation, but how much are we going to lose on the retail side in the short and long term? I believe more sales will come if we continue on the path we are on. We don’t have to rush. Let’s stick with our current game plan. At least, that’s what we’ve been preaching. I tell our team that the bottom line is if the product is selling, retailers will keep buying it. If it doesn’t sell, then that’s it. Beyond that, I believe loyalty has value. We are being loyal to our retailers, even though their loyalty is to the bottom line. But, in the case of a tie, we would hope they would prefer to partner with a company that has been loyal to them. That’s why we are trying to address their problems and needs with viable solutions, whether it’s through innovative products or cause-related marketing campaigns. For example, this past fall we introduced infant styles. Our core distribution never sold the category before. While some were skeptical at first how it might do, we sold out in days and can’t keep up with the demand. Any New Year’s resolutions? Nothing special other than continuing to do what we’ve been doing while upping our humanitarian efforts. One of our mantras is we are a company that cares about our local community, employees, retailers and customers. We want to do more of that. Plastic pollution, for example, is already one of the world’s biggest environmental problems. Whatever we can do to help the environment and be a better company in the community is one of our key goals for this year and going forward. You’re 40-plus years into this business, where does this particular job rank? I would say this is the most enjoyable job that I’ve had. Not only am I learning about a new industry, but we’ve been blessed with growth that has allowed us to take part in our various charitable initiatives—like donating 1,000 blankets made from our recycled plastic bottles fabric this holiday season. Plus, we can take care of our employees. We’ve created a 401K plan that’s the best the company has ever had. We want to take care of them because they are the ones who are making things happen for us. It makes my job more enjoyable than ever. What do you love most about your job? I love helping our people and our retailers succeed—it just makes me feel good. I also love the product. I’m obsessed with making it as unique and comfortable as possible. I still visit the factories often; I just came back from visiting two in China with our designer. Discussing the various new concepts is so much fun. I just love product and being around it. •

Stay informed of the most relevant market news and latest fashion trends by subscribing to the premiere industry fashion magazine: Footwear Plus. A quick visit to www.footwearplusmagazine.com (subscribe link) ensures that you will receive a free subscription to our awardwinning publication. Be sure to include your email address and phone number so we can easily contact you for timely, uninterrupted renewal service. Feel free to contact us anytime at circulation@9threads.com or (440) 871-1300 with your questions.

LAS T WORD

Story Time

These Boots Were Made for Working R e d W i n g ’s n e w c a m p a i g n c e l e b r a t e s customer love affairs with its work boots. By Aleda Johnson LEGEND CIRCULATES THE halls of Red Wing Shoe Company headquarters about a laborer who buried his Red Wing 877 boots three feet below what would become center ice of the Xcel Energy Center in St. Paul, MN. It was the summer of 2000, the last day before his retirement, and the worker wished to pay homage to his trade and his successful career by forever entombing his trusty work boots below the home ice of the NHL’s then newest team, the Minnesota Wild. Hearing the (true) story around the watercooler when he first started working at the Red Wing, MN-based company, Dave Schneider, chief marketing officer, was struck by its sentimentality. “Our customers look at their boots as a key piece of their uniform—a tool in their belt—and have an emotional connection to them,” he says. “The boots have a real impact on their lives that goes way beyond functional benefits.” It got Schneider thinking about how many more stories were out there. He sent a call-out to more than 500 of Red Wing’s retail partners and, in just six months, more than 600 stories were submitted. They became the basis of Red Wing’s “America Working” campaign (launched in July 2017) that showcases select customer-submitted stories about how its boots saved their feet and, in some instances, even their lives. The overrunning theme of the submissions: comfort, reliability and durability, which span workers at Ground Zero after 9/11, riggers toiling in harsh Alaskan oil fields, fourth-generation tree cutters in North Carolina and roadies hauling equipment at Kenny Chesney concerts. J. V. Cannon, a boilermaker-turned-ironworker, wrote about being a “60-year-old, American working man” who has worn Red Wing boots for more than 40 years. He has worked on high rises, oil rigs and hospitals, including the Ballpark at Arlington, home of the Texas Rangers, and rides at Six Flags Over Texas. But it was a recent purchase of Red Wing 3530 boots with a metal plate covering the top that may have saved his life. “I was welding on a 1,350-pound metal curved yoke,” he wrote. “It began to

68 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2018

rock back and forth, then suddenly fell off of the table onto the concrete floor, bounced and landed on my feet. They had to get a crane to get it off of me. To my amazement, the boots weren’t bent or scratched. I am still wearing the same Red Wings today, and will until I die.” Joshua Jackson wore his Red Wings through a career that started with soldering to make jewelry and grew into a welding career. “The boots tell the story of a young man who never really had much, but enough to keep him striving and hopeful,” he wrote. “These boots helped a youth decide what he wanted to be when he grew up, gave him a profession, a code and a dream. They tell the story of a man whose small-time passion of making jewelry with solder made him into a welder, sewing with fire.” Brittany Brooks wrote about being a union pipeliner, spending hours on her feet trekking up and down muddy, hazardous mountains. “That word ‘laborer’ is no joke. I’m on my feet all damn day long,” she wrote. “I wear my Red Wings and show the boys what’s up. It’s hard enough being a woman in a man’s world, try doing it in a male-dominated industry!” Brooks signed off by stating, “My momma swore by ’em as a union carpenter, and I do too!” “We heard over and over again, ‘I can’t imagine not working with them’ or, ‘They help me do the best job I can,’” Schneider says. A bonus, he adds, is the stories made Red Wing employees feel great knowing the products they design, manufacture and market mean so much to their customers. It’s positive feedback that likely would never have been communicated. “We live in somewhat of a vacuum where we’re shipping boots to stores and selling on ecommerce platforms,” Schneider says. “These stories celebrate all the positive places we’ve made an impact.” The stories are displayed via a Wall of Honor link on redwingshoes.com. In addition, 33 stories will be displayed on a two-and-a-half story wall in Red Wing’s hometown flagship store. The display will include the actual boots and a digital kiosk where visitors can Top to bottom: Pipeliner listen to interviews with the owners. The Brittany Brooks stands tall; the boots that saved the exhibit will go live early this year. Going life of ironworker forward, Red Wing will add stories to J.V. Cannon; the tools of the Wall of Honor page as well as rotate Joshua Jackson, a jewelry select ones into its flagship display. “We maker-turned-welder. believe in a many-year installation,” Schneider says, likening the process to Major League Baseball’s annual Hall of Fame induction. “This is about paying homage to people who try to do their best work, and Red Wing is an enabler of that,” he says. “That’s about as good as we can ask for.”

Bella~Vita

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Fall 2018

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