JULY 2021 VOL 31 • ISSUE 6 • $10
LIGHT SHOW
ATHLEISURE UNVEILS BREE ZY PASTELS & AIRY CONSTRUCTIONS FOR SPRING HIRE TIMES LEADING WORK BRANDS PREP FOR THE REBUILD RENAISSANCE
FAST FACTS RUNNERS BARE THEIR SOLES
GRAYS MATTER THE NEW NEUTRAL IN MEN’S KICKS
FOAM MEETS FASHION
MAGIC LV | ATL Shoe Market | Surf Expo www.Floafers.com | 844-FLOAFER
J U LY 2 0 2 1
F E AT U R E S
Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher
10 Back to Work Leading work brand execs discuss how they are prepping for a rebuild America renaissance. By Greg Dutter 18 In the Running Long Island runners reveal their shoe and shopping preferences, and why they love to run. By Tara Campbell
Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Emily Beckman Associate Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Ann Loynd Burton Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Tim Regas Contributing Photographers
24 A Touch of Grays Old school guy kicks shift into neutral. By Ann Loynd Burton
ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION
26 Into the Light Sweet and soft pastels and airy constructions evoke sporty chich serenity. By Ann Loynd Burton
Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director
Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager
Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director
PA G E
26
WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO
On cover: Lightweight leather/knit trainers by Propét.
D E PA RT M E N T S
This page: Rollie jogger with knit upper.
4 Editor’s Note
Photography by Trevett McCandliss; model: Kate Demianova/Supreme Management; hair and makeup: Shane Monden/Next Artists; stylist: Nancy Campbell; fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton.
8 Scene & Heard
6 This Just In 20 Trend Spotting: Joggers 22 Trend Spotting: Slides 23 A Note to My Younger Self 38 Shoe Salon 40 Last Shot
PA G E
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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.
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ED ITOR’S NOTE
Renaissance Flair
The Great Mulligan AS KIDS, IT didn’t matter what game we were playing—touch football, street hockey, whiffle ball, ping pong, Horse, running bases, tag—if a key play determining defeat was close (or one of us just couldn’t accept losing), screams of “Do over! Do over!” would erupt. The objectors always felt misunderstood, cheated or cursed—often times all three. The ref, of course, was blind, because anyone could see that the person objecting was safe by a mile, the ball was in, I was fouled. It was just a sudden gust of wind or some other act of God that made it appear different. Truth is, we all desperately wanted a second chance at a better outcome. Golfers call that a Mulligan. Retailers call it a make good. Some call it a second bite of the apple. Call it whatever you want, a second chance to make things right is a universal desire among humans. We want that last-second shot to be nothing but net, not clang off the back of the rim. We want the Hollywood ending, the Cinderella story, the feel-good redemption. The pandemic could be the grandest mulligan ever. The shutdown gave the world a chance to rethink and reimagine our daily lives, from mundane matters to macro-scale revisions. It’s changed how we shop, what we wear and where we work and live. It’s also changed many of our values, like the importance we place on time, family, health and happiness. It took a pandemic to shake us to our collective core and make us realize that life can be (far too) short and unpredictable. That all work and no play does make Jack a dull boy—and terribly empty. That money isn’t everything. That the rat race is a deathtrap. Gen Z and Millennials—often accused by older generations of being lazy—are leading this work-life balance revolution. They seek flexibility in location, hours and benefits. They want to be happy while they work, and studies show workers are more productive when they are. That’s a win-win, and proof that just because something has always been done a certain way, that doesn’t make it the right way. So, a tip of the cap to these demographics for helping redefine how we work and live, which is helping fuel a migration to and revitalization of smaller cities, suburbs and rural areas. On a much larger scale, many experts believe America’s reopening marks the start of a nationwide renaissance. New York Times columnist David Brooks recently called the pandemic a radical disruption, jumpstarting America’s revival, like the fallout of World War II did for Japan and Germany. It cleared out the old guard, opening the door for new thinkers
and ideas. Many Americans spent the pandemic as a “preparation period,” gearing up for the new normal, Brooks observed. As evidence, he cited the 4.4 million new businesses that were started in 2020, a record number. He also noted that Americans socked away trillions, putting them in a position to invest and spend post-pandemic. In fact, global economic growth is projected to grow more than six percent this year and to continue strongly through at least 2022. The work boot market, for one, is aware of this imminent business boom, regardless of whether President Biden’s trillion-dollar infrastructure bill gets passed. In our Back to Work feature (p. 10), five leading brand execs offer insights on how they plan to meet the expected spike in demand— starting with trying to encourage more people to choose skilled labor fields as a career. Some have introduced innovative marketing campaigns that showcase trades in a new and attractive light. Work boot makers aren’t the only ones who stand to gain in America’s projected renaissance. We’ve already seen the slippers category flourish as a key element of remote office attire. And the athletic and outdoor categories have seen strong upticks as millions of Americans discovered/ rediscovered the importance of physical and mental well-being. Our feature In the Running (p. 18) goes right to the source, asking an array of Long Island joggers why they choose to run and, of most concern to our readers, their brand and shopping preferences. Even dress shoe makers are prepping for a bounce back as people gather with much-missed family and dress-to-impress at in-person business meetings. It’s one of the reasons Taryn Rose, co-founder of Enrico Cuini and the subject of this month’s Designer Chat (p. 38), expects its selection of up to five-inch heels to sell like hotcakes in the coming seasons. In addition to the breakthrough construction she claims could revolutionize the industry, the renowned designer firmly believes that women love how they look in snazzy heels. (Some things never change.) Rose is banking on the promise that they can wear the look without pain as a recipe for her brand’s future success. Enrico Cuini is but one example in an ongoing quest for new beginnings in our industry. We never stop pressing forward with new brands, technologies, retail concepts, ideas, etc. And while the pandemic dampened those efforts, the eternal light of renewal still shines. A potential rebuild renaissance for America will brighten that light. They say the darkest hour is just before dawn. I believe the sun is starting to rise and the universe has heard our cries for a “do over.”
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
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THIS JUST IN
Board Meeting
Skaters of all stripes gather at Venice Beach Skatepark, the sport’s mecca, to show off their tricks and kicks. Photography by Tim Regas 6 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2021
WORK IS IN OUR SOLE
ROCKYBRANDS.COM
SCENE & HEARD
Danner Opens Denver Digs
Aetrex FitGenius Platform: a Wise Decision WHAT IF THE shoe really fits? Like, all the time. Just how might such reliable fitting accuracy, across an entire range of brands and styles, change the shopping experience—in-store and online—for consumers and retailers? Think of all the happy feet, not to mention the reduction in returns that would put a huge smile on the faces of brands and retailers. That’s exactly what Aetrex’s Albert 3Dfit scanning device aims to achieve, along with the addition of the New Jersey-based company’s FitGenius software, a proprietary artificial intelligence platform, that enables anyone’s measurements to be analyzed against a footwear database to make custom recommendations based on available inventory. “The FitGenius plug-in can be applied across a retailer’s shopping platforms—from their website to their emails and their social media channels,” says Larry Schwartz, CEO of Aetrex. “This makes for a seamless shopping experience across all channels, allowing customers to find the right fit wherever and whenever they shop.” When it comes to online shopping, in particular, possessing such size data has enormous potential ROI. As everyone knows, finding the right fit virtually has its challenges. In fact, studies show that consumers tend to buy two to three pairs of the same style in a range of styles, hoping one provides the optimum fit and then return the rest. Aside from that dirty global footprint, it’s
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a costly inventory management headache. “For retailers that rely on ecommerce sales, finding a solution to improve the purchase experience and pinpoint the correct fit the first time can have a significant impact on the bottom line,” Schwartz says. “Not only does our 3D scanner help reduce returns, it’s a quick and efficient process that takes less than 10 seconds and, with a price at $1,995, 3D foot scanning technology is now affordable to retailers of all sizes.” Finding the right size from the get-go looks to get even easier following Aetrex’s acquisition of SOLS Systems in 2017. A pioneer of 3D modeling and imaging software, the company has the software and patents for 3D scanning via a smartphone. “With this technology, in combination with our current sizing app, we’ll be making additions to the app that will tie in with our FitGenius AI platform in the second half of this year,” Schwartz says, noting that the roll out of the Albert 2 Pro scanner has been going very well since making its debut in stores in February. “We’ve seen an increase in scan counts in the doors that have received the Albert 2 Pro model as well as an increase in conversion rates. Customers are intrigued by the sleek, modern design.” Schwartz adds, “Overall, retailers and customers are loving it, and we’re excited to see this trend continue as we ship more Albert 2 Pro scanners to retailers.”
DANNER’S PACIFIC CASCADES roots stretch back for nearly a century, so it’s little wonder the outdoor and work brand’s first flagship stores opened in its home state of Oregon (four locations) and nearby Washington (two doors). But now the brand has ventured east—to the Rocky Mountains—with its latest store opening at Basecamp at Market Station in Denver. “As a brand, we thrive outside and this mentality makes the Mile High City the perfect location for the newest Danner store,” says Erin Hutchison, media relations manager. “Additionally, Basecamp at Market Station is home to retailers that share a deeply-rooted passion for outdoor gear.” The 1,700-square-foot pace brings elements of Colorado’s vast wilderness indoors amid a cabin-like decor. In addition, an eye-catching bighorn sheep mural overlooks the brand’s largest assortment, outside of the Pacific Northwest, of lifestyle, hiking, hunting and work boots, while its “Go There” tagline is celebrated throughout and serves as inspiration to lace up a pair and go exploring. “Whether hiking a summer fourteener or brewery hopping in downtown Denver, the store has boots for everyone,” Hutchison says.
The destination for all things Danner in Denver.
SCENE & HEARD
Muk Luks Teams with Kathy Ireland
Supermodel-turnedsupermogul Kathy Ireland
Rebound with
TravelBound
RELIABLE OF MILWAUKEE, makers of Muk Luks, and Kathy Ireland Worldwide have entered into a five-year licensing agreement to produce a collection of slippers, shoes, socks, headwear and accessories under Kathy Ireland by Muk Luks label. The supermodel-turned-supermogul and her kiWW creative team will design items in collaboration with Reliable beginning this fall. Shoes will be a soft launch for next spring followed by an expanded assortment for Fall ’22. Mark Blutstein, CEO of the 109-yearold, family-owned Reliable of Milwaukee, believes the partnership is match made in casual style heaven. “Muk Luks captures a vintage design origin mixed with expressive patterns and prints, culminating in modern vintage styling,” he says. “And Kathy Ireland curates timeless styling that is relaxed, stylish, occasional and suited for everyday wear and entirely accessible to a wide demographic range.”
Ireland also believes the two brands align well. “Each piece in the Muk Luks collections is not only comfortable and of the highest quality, but also celebrates self-expression and individual beauty— a concept all of us at kiWW believe in so strongly and promote,” she says. “In addition, Mark and the team at Reliable align with our philanthropic philosophy of giving back to our communities.” The deal comes on the heels of a recordbreaking sales year for Reliable in 2020, which Blutstein notes began before the pandemic. “Our upward trajectory pre-dated the quarantine era, and 2021 is proving to provide the same upward trajectory,” he says, noting Muk Luks has gained shelf space across its retail spectrum as well as signed many new accounts. “We are forecasting another record-breaking year in sales, and all indications are we’ll have a tailwind to grow our businesses in 2022.”
Back to Work
Are we ready for a rebuild renaissance? As America emerges from the Covid-19 pandemic, work brands are expecting a bull market in the years ahead—so long as there are enough skilled laborers to do the jobs. By Greg Dutter
New for Spring ’22, Timberland Pro’s work/hiker Switchback collection.
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THE WORK FOOTWEAR market has fared relatively well through the pandemic. As essential gear for first responders as well as a growing legion of people working in the online shopping-fueled warehouse distribution and delivery sectors, sales have been solid over the past year or so. What’s more, retailers selling such product were also deemed essential and stayed open. The main challenges have been having enough inventory to meet demand and, longer term, there being enough skilled workers to meet the growing demand to fill those jobs. One study noted that more than two million manufacturing skilled labor jobs will be vacant by 2028. That’s potentially container ship loads of missed work boot sales. This year alone construction companies need to hire 430,000 more workers than they employed in 2020, according to an analysis of U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics data. Analysis by Associated Builders and Contractors also revealed that every $1 billion in extra construction spending generates an average of at least 5,700 related jobs. So, if President Biden’s multi-trillion-dollar budget that is heavy on infrastructure projects gets passed by Congress…do the math. Keeping pace with the demand for skilled labor is challening enough, but there’s also the need to fill positions in all forms of employment as the great reopening commences. According to a recent Wall Street Journal article, businesses across America are desperate for workers, as evidenced by the Labor Department survey citing 9.3 million job openings in April—the most since it began keeping track in 2000. Job openings increased by 998,000, including 391,000 in leisure and hospitality, 108,000 in trade and transportation and 102,000 in manufacturing. On the bright side, the work footwear market is very healthy, and trying to keep pace with growing demand is a good problem to have. Here, five brand executives discuss how they are meeting demand, what’s new for Spring ’22 and what their crystal balls are revealing about the market’s future.
JASON BROOKS
CEO, Rocky Brands How’s Business? Good! We came into 2020 with a very good balance sheet and were able to manage our business differently than had we not. We haven’t furlough or let go a single employee during this crisis. Nor did we cancel one order with our factories. We postponed some, but our sales team still made calls when a lot of our competitors had furloughed their entire sales force. Plus, many of our retail partners stayed open as essential businesses. And when business started to really come back in Q3, our factory partners kept making our orders and we’ve picked up shelf space. And that’s hard to get back, because we primarily sell black and brown work boots, right? If customers like our boots, they want to buy them again and again. The other advantage we have is our manufacturing facilities in Puerto Rico and Dominican Republic. We’ve been in those countries for over 30 years and there have been no shipping container issues there. What’s the outlook for the rest of this year? We don’t issue a lot of forwardlooking statements, but on our Q1 earnings call we gave guidance that the rest of this year combined would be about a 20 percent sales increase over 2020. Looking ahead to 2022, our approach is it has to get back to some normalcy. We’ve always talked about mid-single digit growth and we’re pretty comfortable with that. Consumers and retailers are liking our product and therefore I think we’ll hold onto that shelf space. It will also be interesting to see if President Biden’s infrastructure bill goes through. That could certainly help us.
of a sudden, you’ll see this huge boom. It’ll probably be a slow burn over years. But the bigger question is: Do we even have enough people to do the infrastructure work that funding can support, let alone enough people who can pull a box off a conveyor belt in a warehouse? Right now, I need to hire about 50 people in my distribution center and I can’t find anyone. Still, passage of that bill should be great for our business in the long run. Because, for starters, I think more people will see the opportunity to make a good living in those fields. Plus, we’ll probably have to pay more to do those skilled jobs and that will attract people. Why was now a good time to expand the portfolio with the acquisition of Honeywell’s brands? There are really two ways to grow. 1. Organically. 2. Acquisitions. We’ve been growing organically, but it’s two to four percent a year, which doesn’t bother me but it’s not terribly sexy to investors. Beyond that, the brands are amazing. Original Muck Boot Company fits our business because we deal with the same customer base, but it’s not the same product. It’s not going cannibalize anything we do because we focus on leather, Corduratype product and they are all rubber/neoprene. Xtratuf is also all rubber, triple dipped, big in industrial fishing and works well in our model. NEOs, Servus and Ranger are smaller brands, but again all different than anything we are focused on from Rocky, Georgia Boot and Durango standpoints. We think it’s a great buy. Those brands will blossom further under Rocky’s umbrella? First, the people who came with the acquisition have done a great job of positioning, marketing and product development. Where I think we can do a better job is in operations. Nothing against Honeywell, but this was the only division they sold direct to consumers and retailers. Every other category they have is sold through distributors. It just didn’t fit their model—their distribution centers aren’t set up to ship one pair of boots to a retailer or a consumer. We are. So I think that we can absolutely grow the brands just because they are
Might we be on the verge of a rebuild America renaissance—a potential Golden Age for work footwear sales? I think you can prepare for it a little bit, but I don’t think you can count on it. If the bill passes, I don’t think, all
Xtratuff’s new waterproof Ankle Deck Boot ECO features Yulex foam, a plantbased alternative to neoprene.
Part of Rocky Boots’ expanded made in the U.S.A. Iron Clad collection, this waterproof leather wellington boot features a seven layer oil- and slip-resistant outsole.
2021 july • footwearplusmagazine.com 11
going to be in a footwear company versus an industrial one. Many of the customers have told us that they can’t wait for us to get that inventory in our DC so they don’t get shipped the wrong stuff and they can get shipments in a timely manner. It should be really good.
The new Radius Kint collection by Timberland Pro is a lightweight construction aimed at warehouse workers.
Overall, business on the work front is looking up for Rocky Brands? Yes! Once we finish integrating the Honeywell brands into our operating system, over the next few years the focus will be on optimizing brand synergies to drive further growth. Muck, for example, has done a great job of expanding its distribution, especially during Covid, into niches around gardening and women’s. I call those half steps away from the brand. I don’t want to get two steps away, because I think you can screw your business up if you get too far away from what you are really good at. Finding half steps here and there for any of our brands is an opportunity for growth. The other growth opportunity is international. Right now, that amounts to about five percent of our business. There’s a big growth opportunity internationally with all of our brands.
BOB SINENI,
Vice President and General Manager, Timberland Pro How’s business? Despite the pandemic, last year was a very strong year for Timberland Pro and we’re seeing that momentum continue into 2021. We’re experiencing record growth in our digital channels and surges in brick-and-mortar as well with the return to normalcy. Many of our retailers were very successful at pivoting to an omni-channel approach; in fact, we had some retailers post record years because of how skillfully they evolved their business model. The beginning of the year was also marked by strong product launches, mostly notably our Radius safety shoes, our newest offering of work athletics. We also launched our first-ever Timberland Pro slide so that workers can experience the comfort of our signature Anti-Fatigue Technology on and off the job site. What’s new and noteworthy for Spring ’22? We’re launching two new families of work hikers: the Trailwind and Switchback. The Trailwind ($190 SRP) is a premium hiker made with full-grain, waterproof leather packed with innovation. It features a custom-designed Vibram rubber outsole, asymmetrical CarbonShield safety toe for a roomy fit, Anti-Fatigue Technology, StableStride technology for lateral stability on slanted and uneven surfaces, and our lightweight Hover Spring foam midsole for industry-leading underfoot comfort, flexibility and durability. It’s waterproof and mutilation-free, so a great choice for everything from construction to automotive manufacturing. The Switchback ($150-$165 SRP) includes four men’s styles and one women’s style. It’s offered in composite and soft toe versions, all with Anti-Fatigue Technology and a waterproof membrane. The other launch we’re really excited about is our Radius Knit family ($135 SRP), which is an extension of the Radius safety shoes we launched this spring. It’s one of the lightest and most flexible footwear families we’ve ever introduced. What sets it apart from the original is its slip-on knit upper 12 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2021
and stretch lace system to comfortably lock your foot in and provide support. It’s highly versatile but will perform particularly well in warehousing and distribution environments, where we’ve seen explosive growth this past year. Because of its lightweight flexibility, which is powered by our Flex Technology (a platform we originally introduced in our apparel line), the Radius Knit is a great choice for workers who are on the go all day long. Features include our lightweight Hover Spring foam midsole, Anti-Fatigue Technology, composite toe and mutilation free. It includes five men’s and two women’s styles, in a broad range of color options from white to bright. Is there a profession/category that you are expecting to lead sales growth? We’ve attracted a growing number of new consumers in warehousing and distribution, and with that our work athletics have become increasingly popular. We also continue to make strong inroads with both Millennials and women. We attribute that not only to the comfort, durability and performance that Timberland Pro is built on, but also to the thoughtful design and styling we’ve developed with those consumers in mind. Additionally, our women’s footwear is designed specifically for women, where considerations include a more anatomical last, asymmetrical toe shape and a low profile, resulting in a more feminine aesthetic. As the country emerges from the pandemic, might we be on the verge of a rebuild America renaissance? We hope so! The skilled trades gap in the U.S. continues to widen as baby boomers retire and younger consumers are drawn to other career paths. As a brand, our No. 1 priority is helping to change perceptions of the skilled trades by celebrating our consumers. For too long, these workers have not been given the attention they deserve. It’s been one of our greatest privileges to use our platform to celebrate the incredible work that they do. For example, earlier this year we launched a Timberland Pro x Generation T collaboration, pairing our signature wheat Direct Attach work boot with the Generation T movement. Offered in both men’s and women’s, the goal of this boot is to raise awareness for the skilled trades gap and help inspire the next generation. We celebrated the launch with a donation to Girls at Work, an amazing organization committed to empowering young, female builders. Now if we are headed into a rebuild America renaissance, we can expect to see employee acquisition and retention become more competitive, as compa-
nies vie for fewer and fewer employees. This dynamic may cause employers to bolster their benefits and incentives, with safety footwear and apparel programs being one potential lever. We’re hopeful that more employers will offer these programs, leaning into premium brands like Timberland Pro to distinguish themselves and reward their employees. This fall, we’ll also be launching new brand spots that are a continuation of our Always Do. Never Done. campaign, which we built to challenge stereotypes around the types of jobs, people and locations that make up the skilled trades. Our latest campaign focuses on the next generation of these workers, showing that a higher education isn’t always what you think it is and that some classrooms are bigger than others.
LEE LEMON,
Vice President of Sales, Twisted X How’s business? Pre-pandemic, Twisted X Work already had a strong business. When the pandemic hit, we had a short period of about two months with below average sales, but then we picked right back up. The Twisted X Work consumer base is made up of essential, mandated workers who had to be out on the job. We stayed on top of the curve and continued to grow the business, resulting in a 40 to 55 percent increase in our work category sales. The key has been listening to our consumers when it comes to updating our technologies. Collections like our Nano Toe lines were already lightweight, but adding in our incredible CellStretch technology reduces the weight by another 25 percent, making it the ultimate lightweight, yet durable footwear. We’re also seeing a high demand from insurance carriers and safety directors trickle all the way down to footwear. When consumers walk into a work footwear store, they already have directives from their employer on what category and type of footwear they need for work, and they know Twisted X can provide it. What’s the outlook for the rest of this year? The work category continues to remain strong. Twisted X has maintained inventory while many others haven’t,
Twisted X’s Nano Toe Kicks redefine the work “boot.”
which helps us support our retailers and ultimately the consumer. Additionally, the styling and direction we have taken within the work footwear category in the last few years has made us stand out amongst others in the space. What’s new for Spring ’22? There are a couple new categories we’re venturing further into. One is a safety toe athletic collection. This is a fashionable running silhouette with durability and slip-resistance. The style pairs perfectly for work and after work activities. These consumers are typically warehouse employees or in a similar field and grew up wearing running shoes. They expect their work shoes to have a similar feel, so this style gives them that while still being composed of safety footwear essentials. We’ll also introduce more footwear styles specifically designed for women and we are expanding our size range from 5.5 to 16 in men’s. As the country emerges from the pandemic, might we be on the verge of a rebuild America renaissance? Absolutely! We’re already seeing our infrastructure facing hardships nationwide and it’s going to require workers, and they will all need footwear that features safety and function. Twisted X Work is already seeing this trend coming to life as our business continues to rapidly grow. Our container business with retailers has also been growing, but now we are seeing those who originally didn’t order container shipments ordering them for many reasons. One: Their volume is increasing. Two: Our styling and features are important for their mix. Three: We offer stronger margins than many of our competitors. The spans our national retailers to the small 20- to 30-door chains. As such, we’ve increased our production nearly two-fold. We’re putting our money where our mouth is by making the commitment to our factories and our retailers to have the inventory on hand. We’re also keeping our lines fresh and will introduce new technology every six months.
TOM KENNEDY,
President, Wolverine How’s business? Despite the challenges presented by Covid-19, Wolverine ended 2020 strongly, launching our biggest product to date in the marketplace: the Hellcat UltraSpring, which includes the only performance cushioning of its kind in the work boot market. This momentum, created in the back half of 2020, is amplifying our success in 2021. The fact that the majority of our retailers stayed open also allowed our team to continue to invest and prioritize, with an increased emphasis on digital marketing and ecommerce efforts. Traffic and purchases increased across our sites and digital retailers. We anticipate this will remain a growth opportunity, especially in warehouse and logistics, and have launched footwear specific for that market, including the Bolt DuraShocks and Rev UltraSpring. What’s new for Spring ’22? We’re expanding the incredibly successful Hellcat UltraSpring franchise with the Hellcat UltraSpring Heavy Duty. It has a
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JEFF BURNS, Jack of all trades: Wolverine’s new Hellcat UltraSpring Heavy Duty boot is designed for crossover appeal.
President, Weinbrenner Shoe Company How’s business? Demand for our Thorogood brand has never been greater. Our company is projected to end this year with sales revenue up 54 percent from where we were just three years ago. That’s explosive growth, no matter how you look at it as we have been effective in taking shelf space from our competitors—many of whom shut factories down, laid people off and pulled back on advertising. We did the exact opposite. We kept our employees working. Along those lines, we’re in the process of opening our third domestic factory in Merrill, WI. This will add an additional 120,000 square feet of manufacturing and warehouse space. We also plan to expand capacity in our nearby Marshfield factory and are looking at opportunities outside of the state to expand domestic manufacturing. With these investments, we plan on doubling our U.S. production within the next four years. And while we have great overseas partner factories producing excellent product with some technologies that we can’t produce domestically, the heart and soul of Thorogood is our made in the U.S.A. footwear. What’s new for Spring ’22? We have a lot of really exciting styles developed, but our main focus for 2022 is expanding our production capacity to meet the unprecedented demand for our current styles.
unique combination of classic work boot style, high performance UltraSpring cushioning and visually reinforced details to attract an incremental audience. Rugged details include triple needle stitching, a molded toe cap and riveted heel bumper for extra strength and protection in harsh environments. This product is broadly appealing across all age groups in consumer testing.
Where is that demand coming from most? The majority is from blue collar workers building America. They have been trusting Thorogood to provide comfortable, safe and durable work boots for 130 years. Once they find us, they like what they see and they tell their friends, family and co-workers. We’ve also seen an increase in people wearing our boots when they’re off the job.
Is there a particular category receiving extra focus? Wolverine has seen continued growth in the soft toe work boot market and will emphasize this in coming seasons. The expansion introduces our brand to new consumers while at the same time allowing existing ones to have more versatility in how they wear their Wolverine boots. We’ll also be expanding into the outdoor category, primarily through apparel and women’s footwear, including the Torrent Duck boot launching this fall.
As the country emerges from the pandemic, might we be on the verge of a rebuild America renaissance? It really is an exciting time for our company. We’re projecting a significant sales increase over the next three to five years as more people discover the quality and value Thorogood delivers. We’re investing a lot of money to meet this demand and give our customers and dealers the quality footwear they have come to rely on. I see nothing but exciting things ahead for Thorogood. As explosive as our recent growth has been, there are still a lot of people who don’t who we are. But when they do find us, they love our story and the quality we deliver. If we stay true to our values, we’ll continue to gain market share.
As the country emerges from the pandemic, might we be on the verge of a rebuild America renaissance? The pandemic reinforced what Wolverine has known for a while: essential workers are truly essential. As we emerge from the pandemic, we will continue to recognize the importance of these workers, support them with our products and celebrate them through donations to like-minded organizations. Over the next few years, there will continue to be an increasing need for skilled workers, and Wolverine is committed to shining a light on the importance and value of those jobs, as well as supporting the training of the next generation of skilled workers. Along those lines, Wolverine’s Project Bootstrap was founded in 2014 to celebrate and thank people in the skilled trades. Throughout Covid-19, we have seen the essential nature of these jobs more than ever, and we continue to collaborate with partners, like mikeroweWORKS and Metallica Scholars, who recognize the importance of these jobs and support the next generation of skilled trade workers. We’re always looking for innovative ways to reach new audiences with our signature products and technologies, like partnering with New England Patriots’ Chase Winovich to showcase the performance and versatility of boots like the Hellcat UltraSpring. 16 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2021
Born in the U.S.A.: Thorogood’s American Heritage safety toe boot features a MAXWear Wedge outsole to prevent slipping on wet, muddy surfaces.
ADELANDA Daring Innovation and a Unique Portrait of
CREATIVE EXPRESSION. springfootwear.com | 800.962.0030
/Springfootwear
In the Running
Long Island runners reveal their shoe and shopping preferences, and why the exercise is a healthy way of life, especially during the pandemic. By Tara Campbell
RUNNING IS GOOD for the mind, body and soul. It’s also relatively easy on the wallet as compared to, say, a Peleton bike that runs well into the thousands, not including membership fees. Running is also convenient and, since the onset of the pandemic, safe. Hence, the recent running boom that has seen millions of new participants as well as those who rediscovered its joys. According to a 2020 Sports & Fitness Association survey, about 50 million Americans (roughly 15 percent of the population) participated in some form of running. A Runner’s World annual survey backs that up, noting that the sport is more popular than it has been in years and being fueled by pandemic newbies. A recent Run Repeat survey of nearly 4,000 runners, found that about 29 percent started during the pandemic. What’s more, they like it. Since most gyms have reopened, studies show that many are sticking to the great outdoors for their runs. Here, Long Island runners discuss why they choose to run—and what they wear when doing it and where they might go to buy that next pair.
BRIAN: Wearing: Nike Purchased at: Dick’s Sporting Goods How many miles a week? Three to five. Next pair? Nike, again. I’ve been very happy with these, and probably at Dick’s, again. How long have you been running? Ten years. Running more during the pandemic? Definitely more. I have more free time. What do you love about running? The endorphins. LORI Wearing: Saucony Type A Purchased at: RunningWarehouse.com How many miles a week? About 35 to 40 miles. Next pair? Probably the same pair and likely online. I get the best price online. How long have you been running? I ran cross-country in high school and then took did other types of exercise. I got back into it about 10 years ago. Running more since the pandemic? The same. What do you love about running? I love to move my body, and I love the scenery on Long Island.
KEITH Wearing: Brooks Adrenaline Purchased at: Super Runner’s Shop (now closed).
Keith
Lori
Tiana
Brian
Arielle 18
ARIELLE Wearing: Asics Dynamic Duomax Purchased at: The Asics store at the Tanger Outlets. They help me get the best fit because I have very flat feet. In certain brands, I’m a size up and others it’s a size down. I’d rather not have to return stuff. How miles a week? About 15. When I was training for a half marathon last fall it was 30 or 40 a week. Next pair? Back to the Asics store because they were super helpful and these have held up well. Plus, they have a huge selection and you get a good deal. I also really don’t know where else to go. How many years have you been running? About eight years. I started in college when I had to run a 5K and couldn’t do so without stopping. I’ve been increasing my distances since. Running more since the pandemic? Definitely more. There was a lot I couldn’t do, but I could always go for a run.
How many miles a week? About 55 to 60 miles. Running more since the pandemic? Yes. Before that I was running 30 to 35 miles a week. I have double the time at home. Next pair? New Balance 1400, most likely online. How many years have you been running? I ran in high school and then took some years off but picked it up again about eight years ago. Love about running? It’s a great stress reliever. TIANA Wearing: Nike Max Zoom Purchased at: Online, a gift from my sister. How many miles a week? I walk, run or jog three miles about four times a week. Next pair? I usually wear Asics or Nike, but I don’t have a particular brand in mind. I usually try to shop a small business first, like the Sport Runner’s Club in Northport. How long have you been running? Since I was 14, so about 8 years. Running more during the pandemic? More. I started in March and ran because there was nothing else to do. Now that it’s summer, I’m running more. What do you love about running? That I can totally Zen out after working 9 to 5. It’s nice to get outside and do something good for my body. CHANDLER Wearing: Nike Pegasus 35 Purchased at: The Nike store at the Woodbury Outlets. I shop there or Dick’s Sporting Goods because they have a wide selection. I’m not brand specific and looking for what has a good price tag. How many miles a week? About three times a
week and probably 5K intervals. Next pair? No particular brand or style. I just want a versatile shoe with a somewhat narrow fit that’s breathable and somewhat waterproof. I’ll probably look at the same stores. Running more since the pandemic? I took a step back because I wasn’t able to compete in any Spartan races. What do you love about running? It’s an opportunity to disconnect—like going into a dream-like state where I can forget all the stresses in life. MADI Shoes: Nike Purchased at: Dick’s Sporting Goods Next pair? I might buy Nike again, but I’m also looking into Hoka and a few other brands. How long have you been running? About six years. But I seriously got into running during the pandemic. How many miles a week? Ten to 15 miles. More if I’m training for a half marathon. What do you love about running? It brings me to another place and gets my endorphins going. I’ve been working from home during the pandemic, so going for a run in the evenings is just a good way to leave my house and go into the outside world. SCOTT Wearing: Nike Flex Run Purchased at: The Nike store in the Tanger Outlets. I like to try them on first before buying. Next pair? Probably the same pair; they’ve been very comfortable. And probably the same store. How long have you been running? I started running
outside since the pandemic, because I couldn’t go to the gym. I run three to four times a week now, and it’s more fun than going to the gym. What do you love about running? It keeps me in shape and gets out frustrations I might have. RENEE Wearing: Hoka One One Purchased at: Smithtown Running Company How many miles a week? About 20-plus. I run 7 days a week. Next pair? I’m usually a Brooks girl, so probably those, and again at the Smithtown Running Company. How long have you been running? Ten-plus years. Running more during the pandemic? Absolutely more. I have more free time and want to get outside, because I’m still working in an office. What do you love about running? It makes me feel good. I do a lot of good thinking when I’m on a run. PAUL Wearing: Reebok Zig Wild TR 6 Purchased at: At the Reebok store in Tanger Outlets. How many miles a week? About a mile a day. Next pair? This is the first time I ran in these and they’re pretty good, so I’ll probably buy these again. Same store, too. How long have you been running? I started in high school and it’s going on 50 years now. Running more during the pandemic? I’m just getting going again. When the YMCA pool closed, I stopped swimming and then running. But I’m coming back. What do you love about running? Being in shape and feeling good.
Renee
Chandler
Paul
Madi Scott
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Retro joggers, the OG of Normcore kicks, take another lap. 1. Saucony 2. Gola 3. Rolling Soft 4. Geox
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A Perfect Fit: The Importance of Strengthening Retail Relationships How Twisted X® continues to double down on its retail partner relationships to drive success for all parties.
Still, the shift by consumers to shopping online is seismic. In 2020, LAST YEAR, THE retail industry faced one of the worst drops in consumers spent $861.1 billion online—a 44 percent increase, yearsales history, plunging by 20 percent when the world shut down two over-year. According to Digital Commerce 360, that marked the highest months into the pandemic. Worse, clothing and accessory store sales growth in decades and nearly tripled 2019’s increase. But rather than fell by an unprecedented 89 percent, while department store sales just joining the DTC flow, Twisted X sees this as an opportunity to plunged 45 percent, according to analysis by Deloitte. Consumers support its retailers in their expanding omnichannel efforts with had fewer reasons to shop, even though retailers desperately needed social media campaigns. By providing a variety of assets, layouts, web them to do so. designs and emails, the company Fast forward to today. As America caters to its retailers’ needs to help reopens, the retail landscape looks tell their stories and connect with vastly different. Ecommerce has current and potential new customers. increased exponentially, many The ROI is a win-win for Twisted brands have ramped up their directX and retailers. to-consumer (DTC) efforts and Similarly, Twisted X extended a consumers have a new mindset helping hand to its retail partners regarding what they spend their when their inventories went out of money on, as well as how and where whack at the onset of the pandemic. they shop. The so-called new normal With stores closed, retailers needed in this regard is very real. relief—fast.TwistedXtooktheburden So what does all this mean off their shoulders by increasing its for traditional retailers? More factory production and inventory importantly from Twisted X’s levels, making goods easily accessible perspective, how can it support so retailers could fill in as needed. its retail partners going forward? Many brands saw this approach as It starts with quality products a financial risk not worth taking. that sell! Since 2005, Twisted X Look good, feel good, do good: The Zero-X collection features no-glue But this turned out to be one of has been creating comfortable, construction, ecoTWX recycled plastic bottle uppers and bamboo laces. the best ways Twisted X supported handcrafted footwear collections its retail partners, not to mention strengthened inventory levels of in western, work, outdoor and lifestyle categories. Blended into that original and new styles like never before. Twisted X was able to grab is a commitment to sustainable design and support of numerous more shelf space when other brands pulled back. related philanthropic causes. Twisted X understands its shoes must While the future of wholesale may look a lot different than look good, feel good and do good! today, Twisted X firmly believes it will continue to play a key role. Secondly, it means Twisted X doesn’t sell DTC. Retailers have been “If there is trade, there is wholesale,” Reddy offers. “And as long partners since day one, which is why the company chooses to work as consumers are still at the forefront trying to buy from brands, alongside them versus competing against them. “Without our retailers, retailers will be here.” we wouldn’t be where we are today,” says Twisted X CEO Prasad Reddy. That’s why Twisted X’s overall approach is to try and always do right by “Our retail relationships have allowed us to increase our brand stature its retail partners. It’s an ongoing effort that spans product development, as well as value in the industry beyond sales, so it’s important to us to inventory flexibility and marketing support. In addition, the ability to stand by them while many others have pulled away.” pivot to help retailers when the need arises—like during the tremendous Relationships matter. And healthy ones are based on understanding upheaval of this past year—is a must. Such understanding and flexibility each other’s wants and needs. That’s why Twisted X tailors its support are the essence of a successful and long-lasting partnership. “We see to each retail partner based on their individual needs and challenges, ourselves to be in service to our retail partners, where our job is to rather than offering a one-size-fits-all approach. “The building, make footwear that makes us grow together,” Reddy says. “And the strengthening and continuation of our relationships, no matter the more successful retailers are, the more successful we are.” situation, is our underlying philosophy,” affirms Reddy.
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T R E N D S P OT T I N G
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SLIDE SHOW
Anything goes, from flat to chunky and sleek to funky. 1. Dearfoams 2. Bernardo 3. Vagabond 4. Fly London 5. All Black 6. Earth Origins 7. Gabor
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A N OT E T O M Y Y O U N G E R S E L F
ROAD OF LIFE Fr a n k C a m m a r a t a , C E O o f T h e E n j o i y a G r o u p , r e f l e c t s o n t h e twists and turns that led him to the ultimate dream job.
Dear Frank, Although you never dreamed you’d end up spending the better part of your life working in the retail and footwear industries, I’m happy to inform you that it’s a career you’ll absolutely love. Maybe it was destiny? You’ve always attributed your love of retailing to your parents. After all, they met as teenagers, in 1958, while working at Macy’s Herald Square. They even marched in the Thanksgiving Day Parade, where your mom was a float girl and escorted Ginger Rogers, and your dad was a balloon navigator helping tame Mighty Mouse. No wonder you sometimes think of you and your siblings as the “Miracle on 34th Street.” Growing up in New Jersey, a stone’s throw from Manhattan, gives you access to street smarts and great culture. There’s nothing quite like it. Sports also play an integral part of your formative years. It fuels your competitive spirit, which you’re going to need to thrive in the shoe business! (More on that in a bit.) As a teenager, you might not think holding down several jobs in dairy pasteurizing and chemical production factories, an Ellen Tracy garment warehouse and selling Cutco cutlery door-to-door will have any impact on how your career unfolds, but they do! Each of these experiences provide valuable life lessons. You learn to be flexible, resilient and open to new possibilities. It’s where you also learn how to work—how to follow orders, take responsibility and earn your keep. While they aren’t dream jobs, above all they teach you the importance of believing in yourself. In 1982, you put that self-confidence to its first major test, moving to Massachusetts to accept a position as an assistant store manager at the start-up, T.J. Maxx. It turns out to be a very wise move. You work there for the next 19 years, rising the ranks to buyer and then merchandise manager. It’s the most gratifying career experience of your life up until that time. Many of the people you meet during your retailing days remain good friends to this day. It’s also where you’re introduced to the footwear industry. You quickly discover you love it. It’s fast-paced and dynamic. Plus, you have a knack for spotting winners. This shoe biz love affair is the impetus for your next big career move, in 2008, when you and two partners launch the Kruzin’ and Rocabouts kids’ brands. It’s a dream job involving branding, merchandising and fiscal matters. The hands-on experience ignites your passion to start your own footwear company one day, i.e. your ultimate dream job.
That day comes in September 2013 when you, as CEO, launch Camtrade, featuring the women’s brands, Secret Celebrity and Soft Comfort. Utilizing your extensive industry contacts gathered over the years, you put together an all-star team of dedicated professionals— some with extensive footwear backgrounds and others with outside expertise—spanning operations, finance, design/development, customer service and marketing. Your goal is to keep growth disciplined, always with the long view top of mind. Of course, launching a shoe company from scratch has its challenges. The road ahead is not always smooth. Setting up a reliable manufacturing base in various countries around the world is grueling work and filled with potholes. But you always drive forward, and soon your team’s efforts and talents pay dividends! Your company is selling a lot of shoes. Business is good. Life is good. Then, March 2020 comes along. (I would advise you to just skip this year entirely but, unfortunately, that isn’t possible.) Just know that the year the deadly Covid-19 pandemic sweeps the globe will be one of the greatest challenges of your career. Stores are forced to close for months. Supply chains go into chaos. The world is turned completely upside down! It doesn’t help that, six months earlier, your company rebrands as The Enjoiya Group, marked by the launch of a namesake fashion label. Except, seemingly overnight, slippers become the office shoe for millions of remoteworking Americans and dress footwear gets shelved as weddings, graduations, holiday parties, conferences, etc. are put on hold. Business is tough. Life is not easy. However, you’ve always been taught, throughout your career, that where there is crisis, there’s opportunity. You buckle down, pivot where you can and ride out the pandemic, believing that the world will heal and thrive once again. That, hopefully, another Roaring Twenties awaits. Your faith, as of mid 2021 when I’m writing you this note, just might be rewarded. The pandemic is not over yet, but there is a light at the end of the tunnel when, just a few months earlier, there appeared to be only darkness. In the meantime, you continue to take solace in your work. You love your job and truly appreciate the important things in life: family, friends and your associates. Life, in those regards, is always good. In closing, stay humble, be open to new ideas and never stop learning. The road to success is always under construction. Sincerely, Frank
2021 july • footwearplusmagazine.com 23
Old SCHOOL silhouettes shift
TOUVH
A TOUCH OF A
GRAYS into NEUTRAL. By Ann Loynd Burton
Left to right: Gabor, Twisted X, Taft, Geox
Left to right: Vagabond, Birkenstock, Taos Photography by Nancy Campbell 24
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Patent leather flatform tennie by Bos. & Co.
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Sweet and soft pastels evoke sporty chic serenity. PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS • STYLING BY NANCY CAMPBELL
Twisted X tweed deck sneakers with ecoTWX recycled uppers. Opposite: Suede retro tennies by K-Swiss. 29
Left to right: Leather jogger with suede patches by Gola; Birkenstock canvas slip-on; mesh/leather trainer by Geox. Opposite: Naot leather sneakers with side zippers for easy on/off wear.
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Taos skate-inspired lace-up. Opposite: suede/mesh walker with trail-friendly outsole by Earth.
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Leather flatforms with laser cut details by All Black. Opposite: Avre stretch-knit slip-on joggers. Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; model: Kate Demianova/Supreme Management; hair and makeup: Shane Monden/Next Artists.
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Aetrex Worldwide, a leader in foot scanning technology, orthotics and comfort and wellness footwear, has launched Albert 3DFit, a sleek and modern 3D foot scanner created to revolutionize the retail industry by making 3D fit technology available to stores of all sizes at a fraction of the cost of competitors.
IR Show: Jul. 27-28 The Atlanta Shoe Market: Aug. 14-16 Chicago Shoe Show: Aug. 18-19 Dallas Market: Aug. 24-27 Sole Commerce/Coterie: Sept. 19-21
Bosandco.com
Magic: Aug. 9-11 Outdoor Retailer: Aug. 10-12 The Atlanta Shoe Market: Aug. 14-16
The Atlanta Shoe Market: Aug. 14-16 BSTA: Sept. 12-13
Aetrex.com
Quoddy.com
Made in Italy, this Bos. & Co. slide features a molded and lightweight cork/latex footbed with a soft woven metallic upper providing easy fit and comfort.
Floafers is modernizing the foam footwear space with a collection of floating loafers—fun, family-friendly styles that are instant wardrobe essentials. Fashionable and comfortable, Floafers feature enhanced arch support and massage pods, while keeping feet safely on the ground with slip-resistant outsoles. Crafted of antimicrobial EVA, they clean up easily with soap and water. Floafers: they take you everywhere. Magic: Aug. 9-11
Floafers.com
For over 25 years, Quoddy has specialized in designing, developing and commercializing premium products. Our core focus is handsewn footwear Made in the U.S.A., building sustainable products and delivering on the highest level quality. Quoddy constantly strives to build consumer loyalty by forming a strong bond between the brand, the product and our consumer’s needs creating a Consumer Centric business environment.
Rooted in comfort, Twisted X offers versatile collections across lifestyle, work, western and outdoor categories. As a leader in innovative and sustainable footwear, we pride ourselves on pushing the boundaries of design and comfort to produce high-quality and cutting-edge styles that help protect our planet. Twistedx.com
Chooka makes footwear for the urban women at the crossroads where fashion, versatility and quality meet. Like this faux shearling-lined summer sandal in popular tie-dye pastels print. Looks good and feels good, these sandals are comfortable to wear all day.
Magic: Aug. 9-11 The Atlanta Shoe Market: Aug. 14-16
Washingtonshoe.com
Known for bringing the smiles and whimsical prints, Western Chief has new play shoes for summer. Water-resistant and lightweight shoes for kids with all the colors and prints they love. Similar options for women and men available to kick around in all summer.
Magic: Aug. 9-11 The Atlanta Shoe Market: Aug. 14-16
Washingtonshoe.com
Fly London’s mantra of “unique & uncompromising” expresses its comittment to unique styling and uncompromising quality. Made in Portugal, the leather Deca wedge sneaker features a removable orthotic insole on a lightweight PU wedge outsole.
IR Show: Jul. 27-28 The Atlanta Shoe Market: Aug. 14-16 Chicago Shoe Show: Aug. 18-19 Dallas Market: Aug. 24-27 Sole Commerce/Coterie: Sept. 19-21
Flylondon.com
At Naot, we are passionate about creating a better world by making people feel comfortable. Crafted by hand through the combined efforts of people from different cultures and backgrounds, Naot shoes are ethically made using sustainable methods with materials of the highest quality. Fine Italian leathers combined with our signature cork insoles, make for an unparalleled combination of quality, fashion and comfort.
Soft shoes is what Softino’s is all about. Made in Portugal, this easy-on sneaker features an elalstic vamp, a removeable orthotic footbed and a unique colored sole for soft, stylish and lightweight wear.
IR Show: Jul. 27-28 The Atlanta Shoe Market : Aug. 14-16 Chicago Shoe Show: Aug. 18-19 Dallas Market: Aug. 24-27 Sole Commerce/Coterie: Sept.19-21
Softinos.com
L’Artiste by Spring Step brings a smile to not only your face, but total stranger’s faces as well! Wearable works of art with hand-painted full grain leathers, antiqued embellishments, joyful color combinations and prints sure to enhance your already positive and optimistic demeanor. Happy attracts the same, and wearing any of the multi-faceted, Frenchinspired creations by L’Artiste by Spring Step will have your total aura aglow. Beautiful, all-day comfort footwear is our mantra, whether in a jeweled high heel or wrapped, hand-painted wedge. Prepare to be wowed and enjoy a celebration for your feet! Springstepshoes.com
The Atlanta Shoe Market, room 105: Aug. 14-16 Dallas Market: Aug. 24-27
IR Show: Jul. 27-28 Michigan Shoe Market: Aug. 8-9 Outdoor Retailer: Aug. 10-12 The Atlanta Shoe Market : Aug. 14-16 BSTA: Sept. 12-13
Naot.com
Propetusa.com
Comfort starts with fit. For over 35 years we have perfected our product line to offer diverse styles in those hard-to-find widths and sizes. Our men’s line is offered in 5 widths and up to size 18, while women’s have 6 widths and up to size 13. We are an industry leader in evolving comfort and wellness footwear into fashionable footwear.
EDITOR’S PICKS
J Reneé Bella-Vita
Vagabond
D E S I G N E R C H AT
TA R Y N R O S E
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ENRICO CUINI
THE RACE IS on! Taryn Rose has got the pedal to the metal of Enrico Cuini, a luxury label the doctor-turned-designer describes as “Ferraris on heels” thanks to its revolutionary ALIA (Active Life In Alignment) construction that not only makes five-inch heels comfortable but can be applied to all styles—even combat boots—for optimal support and alignment. Rose, whose namesake label was a $40-million entity at her departure in 2008, reentered the shoe fray in 2018 with longtime collaborator, Enrico Cuini, inventor of the new construction, because she believes it’s the next revolution in footwear. “The ALIA technology is a true paradigm shift, not just an incremental improvement,” Rose affirms. “Most shoe companies are saying they have better cushioning for their horse and buggy, while we have introduced the automobile.” Rose describes ALIA as the first support system that moves with the foot. “Think of it as a suspension bridge in your shoes,” she explains. “You get an active response to your movement to lift and realign your back to your most optimal position. This decreases pressure and fatigue while improving stability.” Rose, a former orthopedic surgeon, adds that the foot is built like a dome with tensegrity, a combination of tension and compression forces, and needs to be supported more like a high-rise building. “We were all working on the paradigm of the foot having only compression forces before,” she says, noting that the label’s trade secret nanotechnology resin is how the support is achieved. “ALIA is good not only for heels, it can also be beneficial for sneakers and flip-flops, which we are developing.” 38 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2021
HI P T O BE S Q UAR E The geometric toe shape is the right angle in a range of sandal silhouettes.
Rose credits Cuini’s unique combination of architectural, industrial design and artistic skills for leading to the breakthrough construction. “He’s the heart and soul of the company,” she says. “He oversees the factory and production. It would not be possible without his presence.” In addition to the design concept, Rose says Enrico Cuini represents a revolutionary approach to building a shoe company— starting with owning the factory in Italy and operating on a made-to-order model. “I wanted to architect a different business model,” she says. “We don’t design like other shoe companies. We release new styles when they are ready.” So far so good, as Rose reports sales have grown each year. “The technology really does work, otherwise we wouldn’t have been able to grow 50 percent in a pandemic selling only heels,” she says, adding that
the company is on track for a 100-percent increase this year. Further down the road, Rose envisions licensing ALIA to the military and work shoe industries, for starters. “Our military has the most advanced weaponry, but they are still running around in shoes with the same technology as 1900 with the exception of some fabric advancement,” she says. “We still have 15 more years on our utility patents, so I want to see ALIA become the technology platform for the shoe industry.” What brought you back into the shoe business? I actually didn’t want to go back into shoes. I wanted to build a technology company. But I feel we’re a shoe technology company first and foremost. I also want to be a part of what I believe is the next revolution in shoes. I’ve always been an outlier in the industry and then everybody
E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY N A N C Y C A M P B E L L
All Black
copies me 10 years later. This time, it will be more difficult with our patents and also the complexity of what we do from fitting to manufacturing. When people discover the difficulty of executing that, they’ll find something else to copy. How does Enrico Cuini’s design aesthetic differ from Taryn Rose? Taryn Rose was like a Mercedes SUV: beautifully crafted with the best materials and all around utility and ease. Enrico Cuini shoes are like Ferraris: sexy, high-performance machines full of the latest high-tech materials, like carbon fiber and nanotechnology resins. We’re also doing 120mm- to 130mm-heels, which is twice as high as anything that was in Taryn Rose. Our technology allows us to reach new limits. Who is the Enrico Cuini woman? She’s feminine and powerful with confidence. She’s typically a professional woman between 30 and 60 years old. She loves fashion but does not want to suffer for it. She loves luxury brands like Dior, Chanel, Hermes, Jimmy Choo and Louboutin. We also see a lot of women, after having a couple of kids, come to us saying it’s time to “reclaim that part of myself,” but their feet have changed after having children. They want to be comfortable in their heels.
“ T h e r e w il l a l ways be wom e n w h o l ove we ar i n g h e e l s , be c a u s e t h e y do m a ke you l ook t a ll e r a n d s li mm e r.” What’s the theme of your Spring ’22 collection? Overall, we go for evergreen styles and colors with a pop of seasonal color. For Spring ’22, we’ll see architectural origami details as well as white and neon pops since I think people will be very optimistic. We also have a large choice of inclusive nudes and always have metallics. Some say dressy high heels aren’t part of the pandemic-induced new normal…There will always
be women who love wearing heels, because they do make you look taller and slimmer. We already see a big surge in weddings and parties for this summer, so there’s a big pent-up demand for heels. Women are also going back to offices and conferences, and they want heels to increase their stature against male co-workers. However, their feet have gotten spoiled, so they’re seeking a solution to love their heels again. I see an opportunity for us: women wearing heels without pain. Who are some designers you admire? Alber Albaz was a genius. I have a dress from his hightech fabric line, AZ Factory, and absolutely love it. In shoes, we have great respect for Gianvito Rossi because of his technical execution and fit as well as elegant styling. I also love Bottega Veneta bags and what Daniel Lee has done reinterpreting the brand’s language in such a modern way. What was the best piece of advice you ever received? Unseen, untold, unsold. People buy not just a product but an entire experience, including the brand’s story. What do you love most about designing shoes? I love to see women become their very best selves when their soles are elevated.
LAS T SH O T
Fresh Picks
André Assous
Earth
Fly London
J. Reneé
The Sweet Life 40 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2021
Nothing says summertime picnics and patio parties like these juicy wedges in mouthwatering hues.
P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I SS
Enjoiya
Discover it here.
AUGUST 10-12, 2021 COLORADO CONVENTION CENTER | DENVER, CO
Register now at outdoorretailer.com
Featur ing Aetr ex or thotic suppor t and me mor y foam cushioning for supe r ior comfor t
