Footwear Plus | March 2017

E U R O T R E N D R E P O R T: R E F I N E D M I N I M A L I S M

•

P LU S AWA R D W I N N E R S

•

THIS JUST IN: SNEAKER CIT Y

•

SMART SHOES ERA

ĆŤ Ä‚ Ĉ ĆŤ Ä‘ ĆŤ ĆŤ ă ĆŤ Ä‘ ĆŤ Ä¸Ä Ä€

MARCH 2017

LOOK SHARP

Smoking (Hot) Slippers & Jazzy Loafers Raise the Style Bar

SEE THE BORN FALL 2017 COLLECTIONS New York Showroom | 575 7th Ave | New York, NY

Join the Footwear Industry’s

Nation-wide Volunteer Movement

APRIL 2017 Footwear Cares harnesses the strength of our industry to make a difference in the lives of children and their families in the communities where we work and live.

Sign up or learn more www.twoten.org

M A R C H 2 0 17 Caroline Diaco Publisher

F EATUR E S 12 Smart Moves A growing number of user-friendly smart shoes is proving that the wearable tech movement stretches head to toe. By Emily Beckman 14 Less is More Refined collections of minimal styles led the way at Micam.

By Ann Loynd 18 The Professor Robert Goldberg, president of Harry’s Shoes, is a lifelong student of retail, always positioning his stores at the head of the curve.

By Greg Dutter 22 Profiles in Excellence Honoring the 2016 Plus Award winners for retail and design excellence and sharing their recipes for success.

By Ann Loynd, Emily Beckman & Greg Dutter 40 The New Cool Snazzy slip-ons and smoking slippers hit the right style notes.

By Ann Loynd

PA G E

40

DE PARTM ENTS 6 Editor’s Note

On the cover: Velvet smoking slipper by Vince Camuto, Asos coat over David Hart collared shirt, Spectre & Co. scarf, Richer Poorer socks.

This page: Bruno Magli suede penny loafer.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss Fashion editor and stylist: Ann Loynd; stylist’s assistant, Daniela Lukomski; grooming: Christina Nicole XO; model: Gimberly O./Red Model Mgmt.

8 This Just In 10 Scene & Heard 50 Shoe Salon 52 Comfort 54 What’s Selling 56 Last Word

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Ann Loynd Fashion Editor Emily Beckman Associate Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 135 W. 20th St., Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

E D ITOR ’S NOT E

Stranger Things

another brick in the wall TO SAY THINGS have been a bit strange lately would be an understatement of yuuuuge proportions. Society has reached a whole new level of odd, led by President Trump’s unorthodox approach to, well, just about everything.

A campaign rally after the election? Claiming an election that he won was rife with voter fraud? Pictures that lie? Republicans against free trade? Immigration reforms that smack of a snooty country club? A mafia-like vendetta against businesses that involved dropping a family member’s (poorly performing) clothing line?

So much for politics as usual….

Only in the Bizarro World would any of this be deemed normal, let alone acceptable. It’s a new world disorder where alternative facts, fake news, leaks, conspiracies, lies, spies, walls, protest marches, boycotts and Twitter wars are part of the new abnormal.

It’s fitting that Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey decided to fold its tents after 146 years now that there’s a new, much bigger circus in town. C-SPAN is must-see TV, Saturday Night Live is relevant again and routine presidential press briefings are SRO events. Strange days, indeed.

It makes sense that a show called Stranger Things is all the rage right now. The sci-fi series, set in 1980s Reagan era America, features plenty of government spooks as well as paranormal and supernatural activity. The super-strange events in the series echo some of today’s goings on. Just recently, for example, followers of witchcraft across the United States performed a mass spell designed to remove Trump from office, complete with the crafty Twitter handle #magicresistance. Not surprisingly, the movement sparked fury among Christian conservatives, who have accused the witches of “declaring spiritual war.” (Allow me to suggest #grabyoursouls as a counter rallying meme.) All of this would make great material for a sci-fi series.

Our industry is not immune to the weirdness. Wacky weather patterns continue to play havoc with what remains a seasonally driven business. Possible trade regulation–induced tsunamis could wipe out our current way of sourcing and pricing shoes.

(Apparently some elected officials aren’t aware of the all-important 99 percent—the figure of shoes imported to this country annually.)

Social media–fueled firestorms continue to drag businesses into the political spotlight against their will, accusing them of being pro- or anti-Trump. Either way, it’s a no-win situation. Meanwhile, the demise of many brick-and-mortar heavyweights and the epic downsizing of others continues to reshape the retail landscape

dramatically. And, last but not least, there’s the giant sucking sound of Amazon pulling millions of customers away from every tier and door, either directly or with the help of competing retailers via its third-party Marketplace.

The last example is a new level of strange because, at its roots, third-party marketplaces exacerbate over-distribution, which is arguably the primary cause of unprecedented levels of margin pressure and industry consolidation. So which came first? The desperate times or the platform that pitched retail into a relentless price war and cannibalization that could ultimately lead to extinction? Aside from Amazon, who wins?

A handful of brands have spotted the inequality in this relationship and are rethinking their Amazon policies. Some have stopped doing business with the online giant. Others are grappling with policies that can benefit all parties while some have put the kibosh on retail partners selling on Amazon Marketplace.

In addition to protecting brand image, one of their aims is to help retail partners maintain margins. But strangely enough, many retailers aren’t happy with the decision. Some even choose to ignore the order. One wholesaler has gone so far as to hire a private investigator to hunt down retailers using aliases to sell on the platform. Apparently the temptation to drop prices, often below MAP policies, and move to the top of the queue is greater than loyalty to long-established partnerships. Who’s to blame? The retailers or Amazon’s algorithm, which encourages their behavior? In this instance, the wholesaler has chosen to punish rogue retailers, breaking all business ties. It’s a divorce where neither party wins.

The barrier that separates retailers from wholesalers is higher than ever. Direct-to-consumer efforts, private label programs, MAP pricing battles, third-party platform issues…differences are stacking up like bricks in a wall. The issue bears a striking resemblance to the political barriers springing up in our country, where there’s been little hope of uniting opposing sides. It’s a stark contrast to the collaboration that has been a hallmark of American government for 200-plus years. In that rich legacy of cooperation, I will take the president’s recent speech before Congress at face value. Specifically, his call for Democrats and Republicans to work together to solve our nation’s problems. “We are one people, with one destiny.” It’s a cooperative spirit that’s worked well in the footwear industry for decades, too. No matter which side of the wall you’re on, ask yourself this question: Aren’t we better off working together to try settle our differences, solve our problems and attain a greater collective good?

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

6 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

www.gabor.de

Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

Tel: (800) 361-3466 - info@kannercorp.net

THIS JUST IN

Street survivors Trendsetting dudes sport cutting-edge kicks to traverse Gotham’s concrete jungle.

Photography by Mary Kang

8 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

Tamaris USA INC. 路 4767 New Broad Street, Orlando, FL 32814 路 office (407) 514 2734 路 theschuh@tamaris.us 路 tamaris.com

SCENE & HEARD

Catch a Rising Star COOLWAY FREESTYLE, A division of Fashion Major Brands, has signed Kiersey Clemons to be its brand ambassador for 2017.

The 23-year-old actor/musician—recently named by Forbes as the top “30 under 30” talent to watch this year—has built a strong following based on the diverse characters she has played.

TV credits include the Austin & Ally, Eye Candy and Transparent series. Film appearances include Dope and co-starring in Neighbors 2: Sorority Rising alongside Seth Rogen and Zac Efron. Next up are starring roles in the sequel of the 1990’s thriller, Flatliners, releasing this September, and Justice League, due out later that fall.

“Kiersey is not your average, run-of-the-mill super star,” notes Scott Home, president of Fashion Major Brands. “She’s young, different and really fun. She brings a quirky attitude to what we do.”

Home says Clemons is a perfect fit with the trendy, sporty, quirky hybrid fashion that is Coolway Freestyle. “We try to offer a fresh approach to footwear as well as how a business is run,” he notes. “Kiesey will enhance what we already strive to achieve.”

The partnership will involve personal appearances (the recent FN Platform marking the first), ad campaigns and creative input on select designs. Home already singles out an “awesome interpretation” of one style that he expects to deliver strong returns.

The Sequel SKECHERS ENLISTED ACTOR Rob Lowe for a sequel of sorts. The brand first cast Lowe in the role of celebrity endorser 16 years ago. Back then, the former Brat Pack star had just reinvented himself as a comedic actor, appearing as “Young Number Two,” Dr. Evil’s henchman, in Austin Powers: The Spy Who Shagged Me. Skechers and Lowe are reuniting for a Spring ’17 men’s footwear marketing campaign.

“Rob helped us introduce our dress casual collection to the world in 2001, and today his appeal crosses the many generations who wear our footwear,” says Michael Greenberg, president. “He was a perfect fit then, and he makes perfect sense for Skechers again now.

And amazingly, it’s like he hasn’t aged a day since his initial campaign!”

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

Just for Kicks THE WINNER OF Pensole Footwear Design Academy’s annual World Sneaker Championship is Maxwell Lund of Morton, MN. The aspiring sneaker designer’s hi-top features a thick, molded EVA sole, three grades of Portuguese leather, a World Sneaker Championship heel logo and metal lace tips. Each shoe is individually numbered (only 300 pairs have been made) and comes in a box equipped with straps that converts into a backpack.

“My main focus was to use a non-traditional lacing system and to create unique and pleasing colorways,” Morton says, noting that the tournament pushed him to become a better designer. “Before, I wasn’t learning about design or the ‘right way’ to do things, so I would simply design shoes for fun. I did that for two years before I came across the World Sneaker Championship.”

The initial field consisted of more than 5,700 entries from more than

57 countries, reports D’Wayne Edwards, founder of Pensole Design Academy. Lund’s shoe was selected via public bracket-style ballot involving more than 300,000 votes cast.

That whittled the field down from 64 finalists to two where a panel of industry experts made the final call. “The reach of sneaker culture around the globe is really amazing to see,” Edwards says.

Lund’s style, retailing for $180, will be sold in at select Foot Locker stores around the globe. “We’re excited to partner with Pensole to bring World Sneaker Championship to the next level by selling the winning sneaker at Foot Locker,” states Stacy Cunningham, vice president of marketing for Foot Locker.

“Pensole continues to inspire the next generation of sneaker designers, and we’re thrilled to have some of the industry’s most innovative sneakers available exclusively at Foot Locker.”

There is nothing like the original!

you’re feet will know the difference!

Fine Italian Leathers, hand crafted, suede linings, and an anatomical cork insole

There is nothing like -

S P E C I A L R E P O RT

SMART MOVES

R

EMEMBER THE DAYS when cell phones were simply a device used to make calls and not the lifeline to a person’s everyday needs? Or when eyeglasses used to be just for seeing more clearly and didn’t feature built-in cameras that record everything from your point of view? These days, wearable technologies are covering consumers from head to toe. Whether it be smart watches and sleep headphones to fitness trackers and virtual reality headsets, the list of wearable gadgets is increasing rapidly, and the footwear industry is no exception in adding to this smart fashion movement.

Just in the past year alone, Nike, Vivobarefoot, Altra and Under Armour launched smart shoe technologies. The list also includes niche players like Volvorii, whose high heels change color with a swipe or tap of the provided iOS/Android smartphone app. (Each pair is outfitted with a hidden circuit board that houses Bluetooth and battery components in the heel.) And E-Traces ballet shoes capture a dancer’s foot movements and transforms them into vibrant, multicolor digital drawings that can be viewed on the accompanying smartphone app. There’s also shoes by Lechal Haptic that allow the visually impaired to navigate via sensations transmitted to their feet. The shoes can also be used by anyone as a fitness tracking system for steps, calories burned, workout routines and even alert wearers via their smartphone if they’re near a point of interest and provide more information. Smart indeed!

The category has come a long way since the Adidas 1, considered by many to be the industry’s first smart shoe that debuted more than a decade ago.

Crafted with a microprocessor capable of making 5 million calculations per second, a magnetic sensor in the shoe’s heel area measured its compressions on impact while taking 1,000 readings per second. With that data, the shoe would automatically adjust to the ideal level of cushioning. While considered groundbreaking at the time, the $250 price tag coupled with no downloadable feedback to review proved to be its downfall. Nonetheless, the Adidas 1 marked the beginning of how technology could reinvent the shoe. And as new, more interactive technologies have come online and consumers have become more accustomed to using such devices, industry experts believe that the smart shoe category is only in its infancy and the potential for growth is substantial.

For starters, the demographic for smart shoes is all-inclusive, according to Matt Powell, sports industry analyst at NPD Group. The tech-appeal, he notes, is evident across all generations. “I think Millennials who are trying to get fit are just as likely to buy as a boomer is,” he says. “The smart shoe consumer is

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

just someone who wants to improve weight, conditioning, strength—whatever the issue may be.”

Victoria Staten, president of Victory Enterprises, distributors of ZeroTie self-lacing shoes, agrees that wearable technologies have broad appeal. “It’s a wide open market and who knows what’s going to come out of it in the future,” she says. “There’s probably going to be technologies in footwear that we can’t even envision today.”

In the meantime, plenty of smart shoe technologies are already in play. For example, Nike’s latest introduction, the HyperAdapt 1.0, caused quite a stir when it hit the market last fall as the first-ever performance shoe featuring adaptive lacing. Tiffany Beers, senior innovator for Nike and the project’s technical lead, explains that when the wearer steps into the shoe, the heel hits a sensor and the system automatically tightens. Two buttons on the side tighten and loosen, providing an optimal fit. In addition to the customized fit, the company claims functional simplicity reduces a typical athlete concern—distraction. Taking customization a step further, Nike recently filed a patent that involves implanting a fitness tracker into the sole of a shoe that would transmit data to a mobile device. Some reports suggest the shoe could collect finer information than the speed, distance, direction, altitude and steps measured by other fitness trackers. The device could also be a potential upgrade from the company’s Nike+ fitness tracking brand that currently involves technologies outside of the shoe. A shoe with an integrated fitness tracker, for example, could appeal to those who want to track their run free of any devices on the wrists or in their pockets.

Along similar lines, Under Armour’s Connected Footwear smart shoe technology, which debuted in stores last month, is designed to “revolutionize the way athletes train and recover.” The record-equipped running shoes (UA SpeedForm Velociti RE, UA SpeedForm Gemini 3 RE and UA SpeedForm Europa RE) are exclusively powered by MapMyRun, Under Armour’s global digital running community. It enables runners to track cadence, real-time pace information and the mileage lifetime of the shoe with the added benefit of never needing a recharge. In addition, the technology provides insights into muscular fatigue—a new “smart” element that helps prevent injuries.

Dubbed the Jump Test, it scientifically measures and averages air time of a sequence of jumps as an indicator of muscle fatigue. It helps track an athlete’s recovery status over time and provides immediate guidance on how to alter the intensity of the workout.

“We know one of the biggest problems runners face is pushing through >51

P H OTO CO U R T E SY O F U N D E R A R M O U R

A growing number of user-friendly smart shoes is proving that the wearable technology movement stretches from head to toe. By Emily Beckman

5)& "-- /&8

/ &01 3 &/ & 4 & 3 * &4

XF T U F S O D I J F G DPN ] T B M F T ! XB T I J O H U PO T IP F D P N ]

e u r o p e a n t r e n d r e p o r t : FA L L 2 0 1 7

Less is More Refined collections of minimal and adaptable styles led the way at Micam.

BY ANN LOYND

AFTER A DISRUPTIVE and deplorable 2016, many in the shoe industry (along with millions of people worldwide) called for a fresh start. Fittingly, the theme at the recent Micam show in Milan, Italy, was “Footwear Reset.”

The approximately 1,400 brands on display delivered on that premise with a curated assortment of Fall/Winter ’17 collections marked by an overall minimal yet versatile design ethos. Fold-down slides in supersupple leathers, elevated takes on athleisure and tailored booties in luxu-

rious fabrics like velvet, brocade and exotic skins trended strong across women’s. Meanwhile, hikers, slip-ons and slim-last oxfords reflected a dummy reliable retro sensibility in men’s.

In a fair lecture, one trend forecaster stated that “products need to be designed with a purpose.” Indeed, after a year of culling down across the industry, designers have embraced a less-is-more aesthetic. Buzzwords like “longevity” and “versatility” rang throughout the halls as buyers put their bets on minimal-yet-dependable styles with hope for a better year.

Girl Bands

Stonefly

Square 027 R U N WAY P H OTO S BY M I C A M

In response to the ultracolorful knit upper sneakers of last season, sophisticated bands in neutral hues like white, beige and blush enable these sleek slip-ons with elevated soles to go from boardroom to bar to barre class. “We wanted to give our consumer a comfortable shoe that’s also fashionable,” says Square 027 designer Marco Zanuccolo, adding, “Our target is the chic hipster who loves both nature and the city.”

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

Mountain Men

Bauble Bar

The hiker is still haute, but the European take on this men’s staple is less Americana and more elevated. Tailored lasts with sartorial materials like denim, fur and polished leather kick these mountain boots up a notch.

Many women’s styles took inspiration from the jewelry counter. Posh pearls and shining crystals add just enough bling to block heels, loafers and furry slides. These chunky jewels offer a sophisticated alternative to the all-over, already-feels-dated bedazzling treatments of last season.

Della Pia

Raphaella Booz

The Skinny

Vicenza

Dress boots, oxfords and slip-on loafers featuring a tapered “squound” toe shape offered a more sophisticated take on classics. The silhouette is sleeker and slimmer and more suitable for day or night wear.

Heirloom Haute

Koil

Mythography

Animal Instincts Real men wear fur!

Specifically, shearling, pony hair and fox (real and faux) on loafers, slippers and boots. Jelmano Day G. Yoon, designer of Jimibek Milano, says the material is an easy way to elevate a spring shoe—like a clog or low-top sneaker—and update it for fall. “It’s a contradiction that makes it fun,” he says.

Brocade fabrics transform sleek slippers and tailored ankle booties into statement pieces suitable for day or night. “It gives the shoes a precious feeling,” notes Niloufar Sassani, designer for Boté A Mano.

Boté A Mano

Vicenza

march 2017 • footwearplusmagazine.com 1 5

e u r o p e a n tt rr ee nn d d rreeppoorrtt : FA FALLLL2 2 00 1 71 7

High Rises

Male Bonding

Gender-neutral styles continue to flow forth for the fairer sex, be they sporty oxfords, heeled loafers and metallic brogues. A fresh take on the trend comes in the form of sleek monk straps featured on tapered lasts for a more-feminine version of the menswear staple.

The antithesis to the sneaker, sky-high heels stood tall in the halls. Block heels are still trending strong, but thinner, architectural shanks (think YSL) provide a fresh take when combined with sculptural, shaped uppers.

Thierry Rabotin

Stella Sofia

Ponggou Thierry Rabotin

Velvet picks up where it left off last fall, remaining a popular material found on women’s sock and over-the-knee boots, ballet slippers, mules, pumps and smoking slippers—not to mention on men’s driving mocs and slippers as well.

Romantic evening shades include jewel tones like plum, turquoise, Bordeaux and navy (considered the “new black”) while daytime shades consist of soft neutrals such as blush, periwinkle and light gray.

Best Western

Western has been trending for several seasons now, but the offerings at Micam were decidedly more haute than hoedown. Modern materials like metallic leather, soft-touch suede and desert nubuck put an updated spin on classic Western ankle boots accompanied by decorated buckles, subtle embroidery and the occasional sequin.

Cristofoli

Cristofoli

Fermani

Vic Matié

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

R U N WAY P H OTO S BY M I C A M

Plush Crush

Styles Featured: Earth Montana, Merlin & Missoula

877.746.3364 | earthshoes.com

Dear Robert, Congratulations on this wonderful honor recognizing your accomplishments in our industry!

Thank you for your continued support of the Earth Brands.

Your Friends at

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

Lifetime Achievement

THE PROFESSOR R o b e r t G o l d b e r g , p r e s i d e n t o f Ha r r y ’s S h o e s , i s a lifelong student of retail, sitting at the head of the class when it comes to knowing the nuances of the market and always positioning his store ahead of the curve.

R

OBERT GOLDBERG, A man in the prime of his life, might seem relatively young to be bestowed a Lifetime Achievement award. That is, until one takes into account how he has spent nearly his entire life in shoe retailing—and has been doing so quite successfully, particularly since taking over the day-to-day reins of the third-generation, familyowned business after the turn of the Millennium.

Harry’s Shoes and its offshoot Harry’s Shoes for Kids, located a few doors up the block, have become Upper West Side retail institutions since settling on the corner of 83rd and Broadway in 1975. (There were two prior Manhattan locations since it first opened for business in 1931.) Harry’s Shoes has continually adapted, evolved and—as of 2012—doubled in size to meet the ever-changing wants and needs of its demanding customer base.

Goldberg along with his sister, Randi, his “best friend” and business partner, have set the bar on comfort specialty and kids footwear retailing. Ask most anyone in the industry for their opinion of an exceptional store and a wise retailer, and the answer is nearly unanimous: “Harry’s Shoes” and “Robert Goldberg.”

18 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

Adjectives used most often to describe Harry’s Shoes include great, elite, exceptional, outstanding and reliable. As for describing Goldberg there is, far and away, one most frequently used descriptive: smart.

“He’s just incredibly smart,” confirms Larry Schwartz, CEO of Aetrex Worldwide. “He’s one of the smartest retailers that I know, and he’s just someone who you can trust and have meaningful conversations with about the business.” More importantly, Schwartz adds, Goldberg is somebody you want to do business with. “Robert’s reasonable, he understands vendors’ needs as well as his own and he’s a pleasure to work with,” he says. “And he has a great store and really knows how to operate it.” Schwartz singles out the great execution spanning service, product assortment and decor.

“Harry’s executes as well as anyone,” he says, noting, “Robert’s always thinking and looking forward.”

David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, describes Goldberg as “cerebral,” adding that he is a true student of retail and the footwear industry.

“Because of his most discerning clientele, Robert must always be thinking a step ahead when it comes to assortment and service,” Kahan says, adding that Goldberg excels at the ability. “He is one of my most highly regarded sources of insight and one of my ‘go-to guys’ when I’m thinking through a decision,” Kahan says. “He always gives insightful feedback and thinks a bit out-of-the-box related to the status quo.”

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I SS

By Greg Dutter

Echoing Kahan’s thoughts, Bruce Munro, CEO of Munro & Co., describes Goldberg as an “ardent student” of the shoe business. “He has the ability to see the big picture and is progressive about being where his customer needs him to be,” Munro says.

“And while he runs a huge retail business, he still understands the value of being on the floor and listening to what the boss [the customer] has to say.”

Good Genes One might say the strong retail acumen runs in the Goldberg family. It started with founder Harry Goldberg, flowed down to his son, Joe, and has since been passed onto his son, Robert. Innate retailing ability is unquestionably part of Goldberg’s makeup. “I guess, on some level for my sister and I, shoes were in our blood,” he says. “The natural tendencies that we were always around. It was an instinct, almost.”

Beyond that gift has always been a keen eye and studious approach to continually learn about the business.

It began as a child, watching his father methodically go about running the store. In fact, he and his sister would on occasion tag along with their dad to local shoe shows on Sundays for a little quality time. “That was the only day off he had, so if we wanted to see him we would go to the show,” Goldberg recalls. “We’d walk around the old Coliseum and various hotels.”

What Goldberg first noticed—and learned a great deal from—during those trips was the passion his father had for his job and just how good he was at it. It was inspiring. “To see the level of passion, attention to detail and focus my father had on what he was doing...I sat there and said to myself, ‘Gee, I’d love to be good like that some day,’” Goldberg offers, noting, “So much of it was just instinctual to him.”

For example, Goldberg cites his father’s uncanny ability to spot trends. “He had an eye for catching and understanding trends, and understood how to merchandise—buy it narrow and deep,” he says.

“He had the ability to understand what was beyond the surface; an instinctual gut feeling for things.”

Goldberg adds, “It’s everything they talk about today, but probably don’t do it as well.”

It was not, however, as if the Goldberg kids were being indoctrinated into the family business. As a rule, their father forbade them from working in the store. He wanted his kids to be kids. But that didn’t stop the younger Goldberg from earning his shoe retailing stripes early on, first by sell-

ing shoes at a local Florsheim store during high school summers and, later while attending Vassar College, at Barney’s. Upon graduation, Goldberg was recruited into the Macy’s executive training program where he worked for about a year toward becoming a buyer. It was a pivotal time in his life.

“That’s when I decided I really do like the shoe business and retail,” he says. It was also then that his father decided he didn’t want to lose his son to a department store career track and asked him to join the family business. The request, Goldberg says, was made “in the late ’80s.” So was it destiny,

fate or all according to plan? Goldberg doesn’t really know, for sure. “It was always in the back of my mind,” he says, regarding whether he might one day work at Harry’s Shoes. “But you just don’t know until you know.”

Goldberg got his start as a women’s manager and soon after became the category’s buyer. From that point, it was a steady accumulation of responsibilities as he gained experience and his father grew older and abdicated his duties. He took charge of men’s and kids’ buying and, pretty soon, whatever else needed doing that culminated in being in charge of all merchandising. “It’s a family business, so I also helped manage the store and train the staff,” he says. “You have to be a jack-of-all-trades.”

Goldberg has been doing exactly that for more than a decade. A typical day involves checking in early and making sure everything is running smoothly, followed by meetings with vendors. He’ll also get onto the sales floor to “check in” with customers,

seeing what’s going on and what products they like. “I really try to make it my business to be on the floor as often as I can,” he notes. “I also try to make it into my stockroom periodically, as well.”

(Rumor has it the stockroom is quite vast and extends underground across Broadway.) Goldberg will also meet with his buying team daily to get their read on what’s moving and if they’ve got any feedback on what’s going on in the marketplace at large. “We’ll review sales and discuss future elements, whether it relates to marketing or current trends that we need to be thinking about. And we’ll look at the weather forecast,” Goldberg offers, adding, “It’s a very hands-on kind of process.” Asked if it’s a seven-days-a-week process, Goldberg responds, “Amen.”

In that regard, Goldberg has a knack for being matter of fact. It’s often packaged in the wry frankness of a lifelong New Yorker. When asked, for example, how’s business of late?

His response, “Well, how was the weather?” Few would argue that the weather has been quite unpredictable and, more to the point, downright weird. This past February felt more like mid-May on several occasions in the New York area. According to Goldberg, “Business was the same.”

Strange Days Ever the student who is trying to learn the latest ins and outs of the business, Goldberg says that the current challenges go beyond the wacky weather of the past few years. Buy now/wear now, direct-to-consumer (DTC) and online sellers are all impacting how, when and where consumers shop. Specifically, he cites a “dilution” of consumer demand. “People feel as if they can get it anytime and anywhere,” he says. “So weather becomes more of an inducing factor because there is more of an immediacy.” Goldberg says the result is a definite shift in terms of the sense of importance to immediacy across all consumer goods categories, which is forcing Harry’s to change its product flow.

“You deliver a little later. You marry things more against when typical weather patterns hit,” he offers.

“Seasons run longer, meaning we’ll sell sandals into September when it can still hit 90 degrees.

You shift the calendar, which department stores will never do because it’s too arduous.”

In that regard, Goldberg remains a firm believer in the future viability of independent shoe retailers, which have survived catalogs, department stores and big box discounters. He expects the good ones will 2017 march • footwearplusmagazine.com 19

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

Lifetime Achievement

also retain a foothold against the latest category killers, fast fashion chains and e-tailers. Why? “Because we’re much more nimble,” he says.

Goldberg is surely not naive to the threat online retailers—namely Amazon—pose to his business as well as the industry as a whole.

At the same time, he is not overly consumed by it, choosing instead to focus on the aspects he can control and maximize his brick-andmortar advantages. When asked how shopping inside Harry’s differs from an online experience, Goldberg responds: “Online is kind of one-dimensional. It’s teaching you how to buy shoes in your living room, but feet have a lot of pressure points and it’s still a touch-and-feel business.” He continues, “Look at the return rates online. Many are coming to the realization that the so-called convenience factor is not all that convenient. Returns, which are frequent, are a hassle. Even if it’s free freight, it’s a hassle.”

Asked if he believes the numerous reports 170132_Cougar_TradeAds_FootwearPlus_GG_7.75x5 of brick-and-mortar retail’s death spiral is Built 1/1 (Output 100%)

WO R D A S S O C I AT I O N Robert Goldberg’s take on industry touchstones reveals a wry sense of humor delivered in New York frankness.

Amazon: You don’t want to know the answer Brick-and-mortar: Structure Independent: Nimbleness Service: Necessity Customer: King Loyalty: Generational Direct-to-consumer: Darth Vader Shoes: Necessity Family: Most important thing in life

accurate, Goldberg responds, “If somebody told me I should jump off a bridge, I’d ask, ‘Why?’” He believes online remains a bit of a novelty that will eventually subside, especially when prices and fees rise—something that he predicts will happen in order to become profitable.

Regardless, Goldberg believes it’s a folly to try and out-Amazon Amazon. Especially for retail businesses, which he says, Amazon is clearly not. “They are a technology company,” he says, adding that trying to compete against any major online entity is a losing proposition on two fronts. “They’re always going to be quicker to the newest technology and be able to boil down the competitive levels to the point where they are able to take the air out of the room against anybody who is P&L-based,” he states. Along those lines, he says it’s nearly impossible to be profitable selling footwear strictly online. “I don’t believe the metrics in the online space, from a retailer’s perspective, are ever going to work,” he offers. “The costs based on freight, logistics and return rate percentage already puts >53

get Into Outside.

GUARANTEED WATERPROOF. DESIGNED IN CANADA. Gabby’s premium shearling collar, zip detail and lightweight wedge sole makes it versitile for city streets and weekend getaways.

Visit us at: Chicago Shoe Show: March 8–9 Rocky Mountain Shoe Show: March 11–12, Room 416

1-888-Cougar-1 | www.cougarboots.com

170132_Cougar_TradeAds_FootwearPlus_GG_7.75x5.indd 1 FW_03_17_Lifetime_02.indd 20

2017-02-23 3:37 PM 4/5/17 12:44 PM

@arashoes facebook.com/arashoesNA | ara-shoes.net |

ara FUSION4

Robert,

Our most sincere compliments to such well-deserved recognition.

You are a wonderful business partner, an inspiration to the footwear industry and an amazing person. Wishing you continued success.

The first ever combination of HiFlex shaft and -sole.

ara North America 路 12 W. 57th Street, suite 1001 路 New York 路 NY 10019 路 877.272.7463

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

The Plus Awards Recognizing excellence in design and retail for 2016.

BRAND OF THE YEAR; ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE

ADIDAS IT WAS GAME SEVEN, and the Chicago Cubs were on the verge of an epic, extra-innings comeback that would break a 108-year curse and make them World Series champions. The player who charged in from third base to gobble up a tricky grounder, then fire the ball across the diamond to nip the runner at first for the win was National League MVP Kris Bryant, who happens to be an Adidas-sponsored athlete. Once again, the world’s fastest-growing sportswear company found itself in the limelight. Last year, the brand seemed to be winning on all fronts: product, marketing, sales, fate—you name it.

“It started with Super Bowl MVP [and Adidas sponsored athlete] Von Miller and then seemed like it was one really great success story after the other, culminating with Kris Bryant and the Cubs winning the World Series,” affirms Mark King, president of Adidas Group North America. “We’ve had a lot of success with our athletes and the product kind of speaks for itself. It’s just been one successful franchise after another.”

Richard Johnson, CEO of Foot Locker, concurs that Adidas’ success has been a culmination of many factors. “The technology came into play with their Boost material, they’ve got a great relevant asset to the market in Kanye West and they’ve got classic styles that have had a resurgence with key segments of the sneaker consumer base,” he says. “They’ve hit the perfect stride and the brand heat that they bring has definitely been elevated.”

Most notable on the product front in 2016 was the brand’s Ultra Boost, followed by NMD, Tubular and its classic Stan Smith and Superstar franchises.

Of course, there was also continued buzz around its Yeezy collaboration with West as well as partnerships with tastemakers including Pharrell Williams, 22 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

Rita Ora, Raf Simons, Rick Owens and leading sneaker boutiques from around the globe. The success at retail was across the board as the brand’s market share of U.S. athletic footwear rose 7.2 percent (through November), up from 4.3 percent. (Nike, on the other hand, saw its share fall to 37.3 percent, down from 41 percent last year.) “We’re doing very well in the mall, places like Finish Line, Foot Locker and Journeys as well as in the family channel, like Famous Footwear and Rack Room,” King reports. “We’re growing our business at every channel and our e-commerce business is also doing very well.” Notably, Adidas reclaimed its second-place standings, overtaking Under Armour in sportswear and Skechers in athletic footwear sales. Overall, Adidas was projected to amass $19 billion in sales in 2016 with revenues up 20 percent.

King is most pleased by the brand-wide momentum, which he considers healthier. Nonetheless, even he was a bit overwhelmed by Adidas’ success last year. While meaningful growth is part of the master plan, the results surpassed company expectations. “I would definitely say that the speed at which the market turned to Adidas was a real pleasant surprise for us,” he says. “We thought in 2017 or maybe the first half of 2018 we could start to see some real momentum.” Instead, he says, 2016 “kind of exploded for the brand.”

NPD Sports Analyst Matt Powell is another industry expert who views the brand’s explosive growth as beyond expectations. “I have to admit that I never thought Adidas would make the kind of comeback they did,” he says.

“It’s a real tribute to management’s vision and the hard work of hundreds of people.” Specifically, Powell points to Adidas recognizing the trend shift from basketball to retro and lifestyle running, and having executed well. “It’s all about

product,” he says. “Changes in management’s focus on making shoes that were right for the U.S. market made all the difference.” To that end, industry insiders point to two key factors in the design turnaround—the decision to shift design headquarters from Herzogenaurach, Germany, to Portland, OR, in 2014 and the appointment of Paul Gaudio as global creative director.

King is quick to note that Adidas is only just getting started—the brand has plenty of growth opportunities ahead.

“We doubled our market share in running last year, but it’s still only 8 percent,” he notes. “We are certainly Mark King, president, not satisfied and think that Adidas Group North America there’s a lot of growth left in the running category.” Same goes for basketball: Adidas currently owns a low-single-digits share. “I think we should be in double-digits,” he says. “With [NBA star] James Harden onboard and having a lot of activations around him and just having hired Kris Aman as General Manager Global Basketball, who we believe is going to do great things for us, there’s a lot of runway for us in basketball.” Last but surely not least, King cites the even bigger (in terms of overall market size) opportunity the training category presents. “Stuff you go to the gym and work out in—it’s one of the biggest categories,” he notes, adding that success in running and basketball categories spurs growth in this market. “As we have more success in places like Dick’s, they are giving us more floor space to present our brand in a much bigger way,” he says.

While much of Adidas’ success in 2016 was self-generated, King says the overall popularity of athletic shoes as a lifestyle fashion statement surely helped. It spanned sneaker culture to athleisure, the latter of which he believes has had a bigger impact. He cites himself as an example. “I’ve been working for 35 years and I’ve always worn a button-down shirt, dress pants and a dress shoes. Now I wear a sweater, jeans and sneakers,” he says. “And no matter where you go, you see men and women dressing a lot more casually.” King adds that as the world gets more casual, athleisure presents a great opportunity for growth. “I don’t think it’s a ‘trend’ and I don’t think it’s going to stop,” he says. Nor does the growth at Adidas look to be slowing any time soon. “We love the opportunity that’s right in front of us, and we take it very seriously,” King says. “We’re just trying to do the best we can and keep moving forward.” —Greg Dutter

WOMEN’S COMFORT; SANDALS

BIRKENSTOCK AS PUT SIMPLY by Scott Radcliffe, vice president of marketing, “2016 was a big year for Birkenstock.” So big, in fact, that the brand nabbed two Plus Awards in the Women’s Comfort (its third consecutive) and Sandals categories.

In 2016, Birkenstock marked its 50th year in the U.S., solidified its status as a year-round brand and experienced breakaway success at retail.

“Birkenstock sales in 2016 were through the roof,” confirms Louise Dirks, owner of Canadian chain, Gravitypope, adding that the Arizona sandal was a bestseller and Gizeh sandal a close second. “Birkenstocks are no longer just worn for practical comfort but are seen on runways and in fashion blogs,” she notes. “Rarely does a brand manage to appeal to such a wide variety of people.”

Birkenstock has solidified its cult-status among fashion’s It crowed and continued to satisfy its bread-and-butter comfort customers by staying true to its signature cork footbed, Radcliffe says. “We are the only true ‘comfort’ brand that appeals to a mature consumer as well as the younger trend market,” he says. “The recognition is really something special, and we feel quite fortunate.”

Here, Radcliffe reveals 2016’s style standouts and explains why the brand resonated strongly with consumers again this year. —Ann Loynd What were design highlights of the sandals collection? Our core sandal category continued to outperform with an expansion of silhouettes and vibrant materials and colors. Specifically, we saw incredible performance in our newer, more-feminine sandal styles. The Yara and Daloa with ankle straps were big highlights, and the Mayari with toe loop is now one of our strongest-selling styles. In general, women responded to a slightly dressier and more feminine look from us. Our wedge business also performed and served as a complement to the traditional sandal range and a bridge to shoes.

What were standouts in women’s beyond sandals? Our shoes and boots hit their stride in 2016. We took our cork footbed foundation into traditional shoes with a slimmed-down shape while maintaining the same comfort features. We had tremendous success with our shoes and winter boots selling out. The moto-inspired Stowe and easy-wearing Bennington were notable bestsellers. Birkenstock is now a year-round brand for our customers and retail partners.

What do you think the brand continues to resonate so well? Shearlinglined footbeds on Arizona sandals and Boston clogs spoke to consumers looking to expand the wearability of these styles into fall and winter. And our metallic silver and copper styles resonated with consumers. Colorful designs, thoughtful materials and classic styles were a winning combination. Classic design and architecture were also key inspirations. We reflected on black and white with the addition of antique browns for richness and depth. Feminine yet strong looks were important in our spring collection of pastels, shimmering solids and soft floral prints. march 2017 • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

NATIONAL CHAIN

FOOT LOCKER FOOT LOCKER CEO Richard Johnson credits much of the chain’s success in 2016 to an even more refined “laser focus” on its target audience across its nine retail banners. “We’ve got a lot of consumer muses across our various banners, and zeroing in on each of them—learning what motivates them, how they’ve changed and what excites them—is what led to our success,” he says, noting that the discovery process altered how the company engaged its customers in its stores and online. “We’ve made sure that our customers have as frictionless an experience as possible,” he adds.

Matt Powell, sports industry analyst for NPD Group, concurs that Foot Locker’s ability to generate multiple views of the market through all its formats has been a key to its success. “This gives them an advantage in picking up on emerging or slowing trends,” he says.

“Also, each banner has a distinct point of view, which allows for greater curation in today’s cluttered marketplace.”

The numbers speak for themselves: Foot Locker’s 2016 sales rose 4.8 percent to $7.7 billion while comparable store sales jumped 4.3 percent. It marked the seventh straight year of meaningful sales and profit growth. The company currently operates 3,363 stores in 23 countries through its Foot Locker, Kids Foot Locker, Lady Foot Locker, Champs Sports, Footaction, Six:02, Runners Point and Sidestep concepts as well as its online channel, Eastbay.com. It also debuted a new 10,000-square-foot flagship on 34th Street in Manhattan in August (a second one opened last month in Times Square) that Johnson describes as a “great celebration of how we are looking at and thinking about retail.” It centers on telling great stories. “We don’t just buy an assortment.

We want to be able to tell the story of how a shoe is relevant to sneaker culture and, for example, how it might hookup with a New Era hat,” he explains.

It helps that Foot Locker’s vendor partners are terrific storytellers. Specifically, their ability to create excitement and interest on almost an hourly basis serves as a constant draw for its stores. Examples included in-store appearances last year by Rihanna—introducing her FENTY x Puma collection—and numerous pro athletes in support of their signature shoes. “We’re privileged to work with a handful of fantastic brands that have great stories to tell,” Johnson confirms. “And the environment inside our new flagship lends itself very well to telling those stories.”

The new flagships feature an array of shop-in-shops from leading brands, including Puma Lab, Adidas’ The Foundation, House of Hoops (showcasing Nike and Jordan brands) and the chain’s women’s fitness concept, Six:02.

Johnson says the stores serve as destinations for sneaker culture. “It allows that customer to enjoy the environment, engage with the storytelling and interact with our associates,” he says, noting that Foot Locker will incorporate some of these aspects in its other locations. “It’s a case of what do we learn from these flagships that we can roll out to our fleet of stores around the globe,” he says.

Along those lines, Johnson remains a firm believer in the power of brickand-mortar retailing. It’s a key component to the company’s strategy going 24 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

forward. “We know that 90 percent of our customers interact with us digitally, but the vast majority of them prefer to come into one of our stores and try the product on, get excited by the energy there and interact with our associates,” he says. Johnson believes that much of negative press of late chronicling the death spiral of brick-and-mortar retail has mostly to do with department stores and not specialty stores such as the company’s stable of examples.

“Departments stores haven’t reinvented themselves fast enough to keep customers happy,” he suggests. “Whereas specialty, by definition, means you’ve got something special in the store. And if you engage them how and when they want to be engaged, the physical store is a natural extension of that engagement and relationship that you have with the customer.”

Johnson, a self-professed glass is “three-quarters-full” kind of person, is bullish on continued Foot Locker’s success for Foot Locker this year and going fornew 34th St. ward. For starters, he cites the popularity of the flagship in athleisure trend that should continue to give the New York. company some “added juice,” particularly on the apparel side. More than that, he cites a much bigger macro demographic trend working strongly in the company’s favor. Namely, it’s a sneaker world. “Kids today…their parents grew up wearing sneakers,” he says. “They were part of the Jordan generation. Paying premium prices for sneakers is an accepted behavior today.”

The shift marks a far cry from when Johnson was a kid. “I wore one pair of Chuck Taylors,” he says. “I ran, played basketball and went to school in them. And if you said you paid $100 for sneakers, people would have looked at you funny.” Times have sure changed. “Our customers may not necessarily drive big fancy cars, but they often set their personal tone with their sneaker choices, and I think that’s going to continue,” he says. Layer on top of that the ongoing shift to casual fashion spanning all ages and Johnson believes the sneaker market will continue to grow.

In the meantime, Johnson says Foot Locker will remain laser focused on the business aspects within its control. “Our focus is to keep elevating the experience for our customer,” he says, noting that when you put the customer at the center of things, good things tend to happen. “We are in a very optimistic situation,” he adds. “Our customer has a high consumption level and, adverse macroeconomic and political aspects aside, I don’t see that changing.” Indeed, Johnson believes Foot Locker rests in a sweet spot right now: a growing customer base infatuated with sneakers that loves to shop both in stores and online. (The company’s annual digital sales are nearing $1 billion.) The stores, however, remain a centerpiece of customer interaction. “Our customers see our stores as a social place,” Johnson offers. “They may take a photo of the sneaker with their phone and send it out to their friends asking, ‘Cool or not cool?’ But they are in the store, interacting with our brand and the brands we represent.”

Powell couldn’t agree more. “America’s obsession with sneakers isn’t going away,” he says. “Foot Locker is in an excellent position to leverage this trend with their scale and multiple looks.” —G.D.

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

SNEAKER BOUTIQUE

BODEGA HAVING CELEBRATED ITS 10th anniversary in 2016, Boston-based Bodega bucked the overall brick-and-mortar difficulties, experiencing one of its best years to date. Cofounder Oliver Mak credits much of the boutique’s success to its unique shopping experience: The store is discretely tucked behind an actual bodega through a secret passageway where customers can discover brands and styles not carried in malls or by online behemoths.

“We specialize in an experience that gives context to [street] fashion culture, and we present things people don’t have access to and do it with the best service possible,” Mak explains, adding, “Traditional retail may be struggling, but those who specialize will reap the rewards.”

Here, Mak delves into the nuances of Bodega’s successful retail formula.

He also reveals why the current climate presents an enormous opportunity for physical stores. To that very end, Bodega plans to open its second location this year in Los Angeles. —A.L.

How did you rebuild your brand matrix? The way people dress now is so drastically different than even from 2015. People are so much more conscious of fashion and specific designers. They’re very invested in influencers. That can mean celebrities, but there’s also a level of DIY culture that links in with our culture. It’s like when we started by featuring independent T-shirt brands and sneakers. It’s back to that era of people making things and connecting directly with consumers. We shifted to artist-driven brands that are only carried through us and a few others. It’s about bringing it back in. Streetwear got so big that it was in malls and this is returning to what’s special about it.

How was business overall in 2016? It was one of our biggest years for growth in store and online. I thought in-store would plateau at some point, but it didn’t. We spent a lot of time on research and rebuilding our brand matrix.

And other things helped, like the Massachusetts Council of Tourism sending tourists our way as a beacon of innovation and interesting stuff happening in

Despite an adverse retail climate, especially for brick-and-mortar retailers, Bodega experienced one of its best years. Why, exactly? We focused on our niche culture, and we tried to present a different voice. We’re not in a price war with whoever is selling on Amazon. I was talking with the founder of Slam Jam the other day…He sees so much potential in retail over the next few years. It’s about the unique voices who see retail as art and as an opportunity, not as a means to an end. If you present the product as an artistic piece, people are so receptive right now. There’s so much you can do with how you present an idea. Hashtag mood.

our city. Also, positive growth of our management-level people and empowerment of staff was important. We’re small, but even if you’re starting on in the stock room, we’re able to motivate [our employees], and it’s paying off.

How do you compete with other sneaker boutiques? We don’t. It’s part of a larger fashion statement. If we were just a sneaker boutique, we’d be in that price war. Looking at fashion as a whole, there’s growth potential.

What were some of the highlights of the year? We did an art show for our 10-year anniversary called Series with 16 artists. We sent them denim jackets and they sent them back all customized. We haven’t done an art show since 2014, but it was a great touchstone to bring back the vision of melding art and commerce. We made our first publication as well.

What’s your outlook for this year? We’re very optimistic. We’re opening a store in downtown Los Angeles this September. This is our year where we basically push all our chips to the middle of the poker table and say, “All in.”

We want to make the splash we made in 2006 with our concept again. We see it as a new beginning.

26 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

COMFORT SPECIALTY

SOLE DESIRE SOLE DESIRE IS a bit of an anomaly in shoe retailing these days. Not too many independent retailers pursued an aggressive brick-and-mortar store expansion campaign during 2016. The California-based chain, however, did just that: opening seven new locations to bring its total to 21 stores. Nor could too many retailers—publicly owned or independent—claim last year as their highest-grossing year in history. Sole Desire can.

In addition to offering the retailing basics like good service and a great selection, Dave Astobiza, president, credits a solid portion of Sole Desire’s success to building its brand. “Our focus over the past few years has been on selling our brand,” he explains.

“We remodeled all the existing stores, having taken down branded POP and installed motivational tools to encourage customer service from our staff.” In addition, Astobiza says the chain changed how it merchandises products, which is now displayed by class instead of grouped by brand as it had done so for 20-plus years. “This has had a major impact on what products sell and has also helped some smaller brands compete,” he notes. “It’s resulted in higher maintained margins and better sell-throughs.”

Still, Astobiza describes last year as “challenging.” He cites various headwinds, including the nation’s fractured and hostile political climate, unusual weather patterns and price competition, especially during the fourth quarter. (He also realizes that part of Sole Desire’s record gross sales was due to the additional store openings.) Despite the headwinds, there were plenty of bright spots for Sole Desire in 2016. Leading the way was the store opening last summer in Santa Rosa.

“We purchased a 16,000-square-foot, freestanding building in the historic downtown section of the city, and it has become our topproducing unit,” Astobiza says, proudly. The building, previously a sporting goods store, features 20-foot open ceilings throughout, which fits well with the open-box concept of about 75 percent sale merchandise and 25 28 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

percent core full-price goods. “We are using this location to filter through old products from our 20 other locations and buy specials from our vendors,” he says. “We are also stocking our top-sellers as a backup for our other locations and selling as we go.” So far so good as Astobiza has been pleasantly surprised by the fact that full-price sales have accounted for 25 percent of the store’s overall volume. “We are still full service in this location, which has been very successful,” he adds.

Another key factor that helped improve Sole Desire’s bottom line in 2016 has been a refocus on brands that suggest higher margins and are less distributed online. (Regarde le Ciel is one example.) In addition, Astobiza says the chain benefitted from its focus on vendors who have strong MAP policies and are committed to working with independent retailers. “Taos, Arcopedico, Aetrex, Rieker, Rockport and Earth have been great partners this past year,” he notes.

The growth in accessories sales—up 25 percent—also contributed significantly to Sole Desire’s success in 2016. “It became our fastest growing segment,” Astobiza reports.

“Accessories now account for 22 percent of our total volume. Handbags and insoles led the way.”

Last but not least, Sole Desire’s ability to step in where other retailers have pulled out has also factored into its success. Their demise has presented opportunities for the chain, especially when sweetened by affordable lease terms from landlords as a store paying rent is better than a vacant space.

That aside, Astobiza says the focus this year is on expanding Sole Desire’s digital footprint. “We will relaunch our e-commerce website and focus on social media marketing,” he says, adding he’s optimistic about his business in what remains a disruptive and challenging market. “Last year, the election made things very interesting,” he says, diplomatically. “It’s nice to have that past us.” —G.D.

BOUTIQUE

SHOEGASM GOING ON 30 years in New York, Shoegasm has held its ground in one of the world’s most competitive retail regions. With two locations (in Manhattan’s Chelsea and Tribeca neighborhoods), the boutique’s recipe for success is the ability to attract and service a customer who lives in an expensive city, walks a ton and is obsessed with fashion. That requires a steady assortment of stylish, comfortable and affordable brands for men and (primarily) women.

“They are fashion forward, love to experiment and introduce new trends and ideas,” says MJ Moheban, COO of Chelsea Crew, regarding Shoegasm co-owners, Farshad Noorani and Eddie Cuevas. “They have great locations and they have a very loyal following.”

In addition to Chelsea Crew, the Shoegasm merchandise mix includes Howsty, Kork-Ease, Gola, Dansko, Birkenstock and Sixty Seven, among others. It represents a slimmed down offering as the owners scaled back in 2016 to be more exclusive and combat against price pressures from online retailers. “They reduced their vendor list and ran sales to be competitive in the online market,” notes Moheban, adding that even with the Flatiron store closure, Shoegasm is “still one of our largest independent retailers in New York.”

Steven Weinreb, president of Gola, credits a large portion of Shoegasm’s success in 2016 to its nimbleness.

“They reacted quickly and took advantage of trends to constantly tweak their assortment during the season in order to maximize sales,” he says, adding that the brand had its best year with Shoegasm to date. “They also purchased a broad assortment, which allowed us to tell a brand story rather than showcase just one or two of our best styles,” he adds.

Overall, it’s the independent retailing basics that has earned Shoegasm a respected reputation. Good service, a great selection and an inviting vibe (eclectic interiors with exposed brick walls, antique furniture and Persian rugs) that combine together to make the stores regular destinations for trendy New Yorkers on a budget.

“We like Eddie—he’s supported our brands for quite a few years now,” confirms Diego Franco, sales manager for MTNG. “He’s been a loyal customer, the selection is unique and his stores are well located.” —A.L.

MEN’S COMFORT

ECCO FOR THE SECOND straight year, Ecco has taken home the Plus Award in the men’s comfort category. The company attributes the success to its consistency in brand DNA—one that stretches back nearly 55 years.

Felix Zahn, product director Americas, notes the key—beyond proven comfort constructions and quality materials—is staying vigilant to the wants and needs of the market, regardless of how turbulent it may be. “Last year will

WORK BOOTS

TIMBERLAND PRO TIMBERLAND, A 65-YEAR-OLD brand renowned for its rich outdoor and streetwear heritages, has been building a similar legacy since launching its Timberland Pro work division in 1999. Specifically, the brand has built a solid reputation by regularly pushing the design envelope. It’s the key to survival in a performance category, where introducing breakthrough technologies is paramount to long-term market relevancy and brand survival.

“One of the greatest advantages of Pro is that we are not a hundred-yearold brand confined to conventional thinking or restricted by legacy styles or constructions,” says Steve Ammon, design director. That forward approach to thinking surely factored into the brand’s second straight Plus Award in the Work Boots category.

surely not go into the history books as a great men’s shoe year, however considering the marketplace, we actually did quite well,” Zahn reports. “We saw the shift in men’s purchasing behavior and the trend toward sneakers early enough to make the necessary adjustments to our collection.”

Zahn cites the Soft7 sneaker collection as having generated the most buzz last year for Ecco. While the original concept was launched in the second half of 2015, he reports sales “took off in 2016” with further expansions in styles, material choices and colors. “This is an absolute trend-right silhouette at the moment worn by all generations,” Zahn says, noting that one of the brand’s key missions in the U.S. is to modernize and rejuvenate its men’s business.

“The highlights for 2016 were definitely all part of our contemporary categories that targeted the smart, casual customer,” he adds.

In addition to the mainstream sneaker trend, Zahn says Ecco saw tremendous growth with athletic-inspired styles such as its Intrinsic II slip-on. “This sporty slip-on in knitted textile and full-grain leather with elastic straps is the perfect everyday shoe,” he says. “The stretchable inner sock construction ensures a soft, comfortable fit, and the low-to-the-ground sole construction provides a natural position for the foot and excellent ground adaptation.”

Another success story in men’s comfort for Ecco last year was its hybrid category between casual and formal. Zahn cites the Jeremy boot and Kenton brogues as prime examples. Both blend office-appropriate styling with athletic-like comfort features—notably the partial leather linings with removable inlays soles for extra cushioning. “With the dress code in corporate America getting more casual these two styles are the perfect match,” Zahn says, adding, “Other than that, it is sneakers, sneakers and sneakers.” —Emily Beckman

Ammon credits Pro’s ability to continually anticipate changes in the market for giving the brand an edge. For example, he says Timberland Pro was one of the first to recognize the shift in workplace dynamics with the release of the Titan boot in 2004. “We basically upended the industry,” he says. “We recognized that the Gen Xer entering the workplace grew up wearing athletic shoes and didn’t like the idea of having to wear the heavy, non-flexible boots of their forefathers.”

In 2016, Timberland Pro disrupted the market again, introducing the Powertrain Sport collection. The versatile styles catered to a growing Millennial workforce and also addressed a spike in women entering the construction and manufacturing industries. Retailing for $120, the shoes incorporate performance features such as a lightweight alloy safety toe and slip- and oil-resistant outsoles packaged in a sneaker silhouette with colorful ripstop nylon uppers. “With Millennial workers who grew up in a sneaker culture now flooding the work force, it is important to appeal to their performance and style needs,” Ammon explains, adding that the shoes feature a retooled sole unit that allows for a more comfortable, dual-density, anti-fatigue platform.

Powertrain Sport blew out at retail in 2016, and Ammon reports it’s the most successful product launch to date for the brand. “Powertain Sport is the epitome of the forward-thinking and innovation of Timberland Pro,” he says, adding, “Consumers have responded really well to the line—it’s a chance for them to inject some of their personality into their work uniform.”

Ammon believes Timberland Pro’s relentless pursuit to improve bodes well for its future. He cites three key factors for driving innovation: target industries, consumer demographics and creative problem-solving. It’s why members of the product management team regularly visit industry hot spots.

“We’ve visited state-of-the-art automotive facilities in Ohio and Tennessee; we’ve also spent time at animal processing and rendering facilities in the Mississippi swamps,” he says. “We are constantly looking at ways to make our product more comfortable and perform better.” —A.L and E.B. march 2017 • footwearplusmagazine.com 29

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

WOMEN’S COLLECTION

SJP COLLECTION BY SARAH JESSICA PARKER OVER HER SIX years filming Sex and the City, Sarah Jessica Parker’s character Carrie Bradshaw was obsessed with designer shoes, helping make household names of Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo and Christian Louboutin. But this was one instance where the actor and the character were on the same page: Parker is just as obsessed with pretty shoes, and the opportunity to turn that love affair into a namesake collection has been a dream come true.

“I don’t think that it’s a secret that I have an affection for shoes,” the actress confirmed in a recent Amazon Fashion interview. She is also committed to the same high standards of her favorite designers. “I want to create a shoe that I’m incredibly proud of, that will last forever, that will be well made and that will be worth every single dollar that I’m asking from a customer,” she stated.

The SJP Collection, created in partnership with Manolo Blahnik CEO George Malkemus, delivered on those objectives in 2016. Now in its third year, the brand has become an accessible (retail prices range from around $300 to $500), go-to designer option for women. Along those lines, the brand is devoted to three pillars: the single sole, which Parker calls clean and classic; color as a neutral, featuring bright hues like teal and pink; and the quality of Italian construction. The result is a design aesthetic considered bright, fun, classic and not overly trendy. In 2016, fan favorites included the Austen Glitter Mary Jane pumps, Phoebe Mary Jane pumps and Fugue Satin strappy high-heel sandals.

SJP is available in such Bradshaw shopping haunts as Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. The collection also made its debut on Amazon Fashion in September. Erica Russo, fashion director of accessories & beauty for Bloomindale’s, reports its exclusive collection was received well by customers. “The jewel-tone velvet Fawn and jewel-encrusted pumps were standouts,” she reports, adding, “The Bloomingdale’s girl loves the Sarah Jessica Parker collection because it offers the exciting colors, whimsy and fashion-forward styles our customers look for.”

Boston boutique Max & Riley is one of a few independents that carry the brand, and co-owner Hope Roussilhes reports similar success last year. The same, she adds, can be said about her relationship with SJP. “Working with the team is amazing,” she says. “Everyone is so wonderful and supportive of us, which is even more of an accomplishment because we get to work with them one-on-one.”

Roussilhes cites the Carrie, a T-strap stiletto, in teal satin as the store’s bestselling style in 2016. “Everybody wanted it…It was something blue for brides, and we sold it for graduations,” she says. “Whatever the occasion, it was her favorite pair of shoes.” Roussilhes adds that Max & Riley has done well in all branches of the SJP brand, including candles, handbags and a new “LBD” dress.

The Carrie was also a bestseller in the accessories department of Kleinfeld Bridal (of TLC’s Say Yes to the Dress fame). Jennette Kruszka, director of marketing, reports the shoe sold well in moonstone and silver shades along with the Angelica, a satin pump featuring a jeweled buckle, in skyline blue. “Kleinfeld brides love the unique style and colors of SJP Collection, and they’re the perfect shoes to wear after the wedding with your favorite pair of jeans,” she says, adding, “The collection brings Sex and the City street style to the wedding aisle.” —A.L. 30 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

OUTDOOR STYLE

UGG CALL IT HAUTE hikers, utilitarian, rugged chic…the Outdoor Style category was at the tip of the fashion spear in 2016 and Ugg, a brand entrenched in the aesthetic, tapped into the trend well. Led by revamped and expanded boot collections, the Deckers Brands division continued its evolution into becoming a lifestyle brand for women and men.

The leading example, hands-down, was Ugg’s makeover of its iconic sheepskin boot, the Classic II, which debuted in July.

“We worked with our consumer insights team and listened to what our customers wanted,” explains Andrea O’Donnell, president, fashion lifestyle brands. “The Classic II offers our consumer the same look of the Classic boot but with added features and benefits.” Those benefits include a pretreated sheepskin upper that resists water stains, Treadlite outsoles for improved grip and a sturdier leather heel counter. “Now, consumers can brave the elements and not worry about ruining their favorite boots,” O’Donnell says. “Plus, it showed that we listened to our consumers’ demands and always strive to push newness and celebrate innovation.”

Other notable all-weather options in 2016 included the Adirondack II, a wool-lined duck boot; Blayre II, a rugged ankle boot with buckled sheepskin collar; and Katia, a knee-length wool-lined boot featuring waterproof suede. “We really sunk our teeth into what we know best—outdoor boots,” O’Donnell says, noting that form and function were of equal importance last year. “Our consumer looks to us, not only to keep their feet warm and dry, but also as a fashion statement.”

The men’s category proved to be another bright spot for Ugg last year. O’Donnell reports the brand saw 30-percent growth in this segment. “Our men’s Neumel sheepskin chukka proved to be the hero of 2016,” she reports. “Sales of the Neumel within our e-commerce and concept stores increased by more than 500 percent in 2016, with wholesale retailers nationwide working quickly to replenish inventory.” Additionally, O’Donnell notes that sales data reflected demand for the style in smaller sizes as well, suggesting women were also fans of the boot.

Overall, O’Donnell attributes much of Ugg’s success in Outdoor Style to its zeroing in and embracing its rich, Southern Californian heritage—its base for more than 35 years. “Californians have managed to balance two very different things: Style and fashion with this connection to lifestyle and performance, health and well-being,” she explains. “Our products reflect this philosophy by offering style and performance.” —A.L. and E.B.

TWICE IS NICE. THANK YOU FOOTWEAR PLUS FOR THE BACK-TO-BACK PLUS AWARDS. WE ARE GOING TO KEEP WORKING HARD TO BUILD ON OUR FOUNDATION OF COMFORT, DURABILITY AND PERFORMANCE YEAR AFTER YEAR. TIMBERLAND PRO® POWERTRAIN SPORT WORK SHOES

with Anti-Fatigue Technology

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

BEST COLLAB

RIHANNA X MANOLO BLAHNIK IT’S SAFE TO say that 2016 was the year of Rihanna. In May, the international pop star, already setting the market on fire with her FENTY x Puma collection, extended her footwear design talents via an exclusive collaboration with legendary designer Manolo Blahnik. The collection of six styles—dubbed Denim Desserts—crashed the designer’s microsite dedicated to the collection when it launched—just like the star’s rabid fan-base crashed this magazine’s website after Rihanna’s Facebook page posted about her Plus Award nominations.

Blahnik is as enchanted as millions of fans worldwide by the singer’s je ne sais quoi. In an interview with Vogue, he described his first meeting with the singer after being introduced by model Naomi Campbell. “I just went mad for her then. It was this way she held her neck,” he said. “This movement of women is what fascinates me; you either have it or you haven’t.” The reverence was mutual—Rihanna admits to having fallen in love with the label while watching Sex and the City. “I chose to collaborate with Manolo because, throughout the years, he has proven to be the most timeless and diverse in his designs. His craftsmanship is like no other,” she told Vogue.

The pair of fashion juggernauts did not disappoint. The half-dozen denim styles of pointy-toed stilettos feature a lace-up bootie, Mary Jane and sandal silhouette encrusted with jewels or sequins. The collection is topped off by the Holy Grail—the “9 To 5” thigh-high, belted holster boot. The style reportedly evolved from the pair’s vision of a “confident, decisive woman who knows what she wants,” according to the brand’s website.

“The collection has a bit of everything and appeals to many different tastes,” offers fellow footwear designer Mashizan Masjum. “It’s got cool factor, it’s edgy; it works on various levels for different types of customers.” Masjum is also a Rihanna fan and admires the star’s effortless sense of style. “I love the fact that she’s always so bold in her choices and so unafraid to experiment,” he muses. “We know that there are dozens behind-the-scenes who toil to perfect each of her looks, but she always makes it all look effortless and easy.

That naturalness is so refreshing.”

Indeed, it takes a special person to make wearing chap-like boots look effortless, but that’s exactly what the Caribbean Queen did when she stepped out in the boots paired with cut-off denim shorts, a Princess Diana T-shirt and leather jacket last summer. “Rihanna is fearless when it comes to style, and I think that confidence is really attractive to consumers, especially now living in such an unusual political atmosphere,” notes shoe expert Meghan Cleary. “She is never afraid to be who she is, and that is really empowering at every level.”

Priced from $895 up to $3,995 (for that over-the-knee boot), the collection was available in select Manolo Blahnik stores and for special-order online. The company didn’t release specific figures but reported strong sales worldwide. The success of the collab was followed by a second collection of boots released in November. Inspired by the classic Timberland wheat boot, the “Savage” collaboration includes two lace-up suede ankle boots and three fur-trimmed over-the-knee styles. According to Cleary, the decision for Blahnik and Rihanna to continue forward with their collaboration is a no-brainer.

“Manolo has universal name recognition and a fierce customer base, so to collaborate with Rihanna just creates a huge new audience for him,” she says, adding, “For Rihanna, I think it gives her freedom to express her sense of luxury, and because Manolo is Manolo, the execution, of course, is flawless.” —A.L. 32 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

CHILDREN’S

SKECHERS IT MIGHT HAVE been a tough year for the industry overall, but Skechers was able to improve as 2016 wore on. The company reported a 10-percent increase in its third-quarter sales, totaling 942 million and resulting in a nine-month sales record of $2.8 billion. That growth is due, in part, to Skechers’ extensive children’s offerings, which Marc Rosko, vice president of product development for the division, says registered sales increases throughout the year.

“Skechers Kids has always focused on building children’s product specifically for the wants and needs of kids,” Rosko says. “That in itself sets us apart from the other large players in the industry.”

In 2016, Rosko cites several of the brand’s children’s franchises that performed “extraordinarily” well at retail. It includes the Skech-Air line of knit-upper sneakers, Twinkle Toes light-up tennis shoes and hi-tops, and S-Lights elastic sneakers with light-up match games. Boys’ hi-tops with LED outsoles and girls’ metallic fashion hi-tops also lit up store sales last year. Overall, Rosko says the brand dug deep to find inspiration for its interactive offerings in 2016. “We looked to fashion, art, technology, auto and toy industries—among other areas—to inspire and motivate our creative team,” he explains. “Most of all, we constantly try to put ourselves in the mind of a young boy or girl to appreciate and understand the current forces in pop culture that impact their day.”

But Rosko says it’s not all about bells and whistles. Many of Skechers’ kid’s styles feature Memory Foam insoles and performance features like stability mesh side panels and flexible traction outsoles. That combination of performance and pizzazz is the secret to success in this market.

Specifically, Rosko notes that bright, colorful and fun offerings hold stylistic appeal for kids while the comfort and fit aspects provide peace of mind for parents. “We believe our products last year caught the imagination of kids everywhere with their innovations and strong shelf appeal,” he says. “And parents trust the brand’s quality and appreciate the value.” —A.L. and E.B.

Made in Germany.

Since 1774.

birkenstock.com

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

SNEAKER COLLAB

FENTY X PUMA RIHANNA AND PUMA did some great work, work, work, work, work in 2016.

The good-girl-gone-bad and Puma brand ambassador and women’s creative director shook up the shoe industry with her FENTY x Puma Creeper. Originally released in late 2015, the brand peppered the market with new releases last year: a trio of suede and leather styles in white, black and green/ burgundy; a restock of the original black/ gum, black/white and tan/gum suede colorways; and a group of gray, black and burgundy velvet styles just in time for the holidays. All were smash hits.

“We made sure that the shoe had multiple drops throughout the year, using great color combinations and material updates

allowing the consumer to pick the pair that best suited their personal style,” says Allison Giorgio, senior director of North American brand and marketing. “This tactic kept people guessing and created anticipation around the Creeper throughout the year.”

It worked. Lester Wasserman, owner of West NYC, says the FENTY x Puma Creeper was one of his bestsellers in 2016.

“The Creeper blew out, and the holiday was

phenomenal,” he says. “They were one of the first to market with velvet. Walking around [FN Platform last month], I saw a ton of it.”

It’s Rihanna’s ability to anticipate trends—and launch them—that makes her a cash cow. “She’s a tremendous asset,” confirms Matt Powell, sports industry analyst for NPD Group. “We did some research recently that showed her to be one of the most marketable celebrities. Puma’s done a really good job of creating special product for her that really stands out.” In addition, Powell reports Puma’s women’s business is growing quickly with Rihanna’s help—much faster than its men’s division.

“She’s created a halo for their women’s business that has really propelled it to another level,” he says.

It helps that Rihanna’s fan-base is fiercely loyal. (Its get-out-the-vote Plus Awards drive by her followers on social media was unprecedented.) “People know that the Creeper is Rihanna’s shoe, and her immensely loyal and strong fan-base loved being able to get their hands on something that she helped to create,” Giorgio says.

“Her fan-base is unbelievable,” echoes Modern Notoriety contributor Vince Sirico. “She’s such a trendsetter and always taking risks with what she’s wearing. The elevated sole became a trend so fast because Rihanna had her name behind it.” Sirico adds that the limited availability, as compared to many other trendy sneakers on the market, elevated the cool factor. “The FENTY Creeper was hard to get your hands on,” he says. (Currently, the style is sold out on Puma’s website.)

Star power aside, the Creeper struck a perfect balance between athleisure comfort and fashion styling. “It is a silhouette that is equal parts stylish and completely wearable,” Giorgio notes. The style also stood out among a sea of white, minimalistic sneakers popular last year. “It absolutely filled a place in the market—women are looking for that go-to sneaker that is dripping in style,” says shoe expert Meghan Cleary. “The Creeper was a perfect mix of spot-on trend, great use of materials and star power.” —A.L.

34 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

BOOTS

THE FRYE COMPANY 154 YEARS YOUNG, The Frye Company continued to reinvent itself with a modern edge while still staying true to its rich heritage in 2016. Adrienne Lazarus, CEO of Frye, a division of Global Brands Group Holding Ltd., singles out the Modern Icons collection as a notable success story last year. Debuting last fall, the collection features classic silhouettes spanning combat boots (a silhouette first worn during WWII), western looks, engineer styles and the harness boot made famous by John Lennon. All were updated for comfort and fit while maintaining a vintage aesthetic that oozed authenticity.

Helping bring the Modern Icons collection to life was an inspirational video series featuring the personal stories of modern icons as determined by the brand. Actor/model Boyd Holbrook (the rebel), musician Jon Batiste (the new soul), actress/model Dylan Penn (the rising star) and singer Hasley (the rock star) gave consumers an artsy look at Frye’s modern-classic direction and why its aesthetic is in tune with their personal style. The stories echo the many tales of long-time Frye customers over the years who recall important periods in their lives while wearing Frye boots, be it college or memorable vacations.

The efforts appear to be paying off. Louise Dirks, owner of Gravitypope, reports the brand was a strong performer in her stores. In particular, she cites the heritage and classic boot collections to be the top sellers, noting that its “very strong product mix” in Spring ’16 got things started early. “The eight-inch Engineer was extremely popular and has been so for the last five or six years,” she reports. Other favorites cited by retailers included the Renee Western tall boot, Tate Chelsea high-heel boot and Jones chukka boot.

“Frye has such a rich history of product that appeals to consumers quite a bit,” Dirks says, citing its sneaker program as another success story. “Their sneakers have been selling really well for us. They’re beautiful rich leathers with a great color palette.”—E.B.

MEN’S COLLECTION

CLARKS ORIGINALS IN A YEAR when disruption was the new normal, the fear of the unknown led many guys to tried-and-true styles. It comes as no surprise, then, that classic Desert Boots and Wallabees by Clarks Originals were strong sellers in 2016. Wisely, the brand focused heavily on its roots last year, introducing expanded collections of both those staples. But they weren’t strictly throwbacks: The key to success was the brand’s fusion of nostalgic aesthetics with technical updates for the modern man.

“Autumn/Winter 2016 saw iconic Clarks Originals styles updated with technology fit for the season,” notes Gary Champion, president of Clarks Americas. For example, the brand’s classic Desert Boot received an update with a Gore-Tex waterproof lining and its original Wallabee got a cool-weather makeover with the addition of a warm lining. “We also released a version of the Trigenic Flex with Gore-Tex, giving this icon-in-the-making additional functionality in the rain and snow,” he notes, adding, “Added winter wearability brought something new to the range.”

The technical aspects added another layer of functionality to pieces Champion says hold a unique place in the market. “It’s a collection off well-loved styles that have stood the test of time and new styles as beautifully crafted and innovative as ever,” he says, noting that consumers come to the brand for styles that speak to their individuality. “Clarks Originals is known for authentic cool,” he adds. Don’t just take the exec’s word for it: Look to Pharrell Williams and Drake, who regularly sport colorful Wallabees.

Indeed, Desert Boots and Wallabees accounted for the bulk of the brand’s sales in 2016. But Champion says new styles gained noticeable traction as well. “Over the past year, we have seen an increase in popularity for the Desert Mali, a taller version of the Desert Boot,” he reports. “It was brought back into the line in expanded colorways, and reception was strong across the board.”

Other spins on those classics including the low-cut Desert London oxford and Burcott Field, a moc-toe leather oxford with a classic crepe sole.

Champion believes a good part of Clarks Originals’ cool factor comes from the introduction of new styles. He cites the growing popularity of its two-year-old Trigenic Flex collection as an example. The hi-top, all-leather sneakers featuring segmented outsoles for flexibility resonated with consumers last year. Louise Dirks, owner of the Canadian footwear chain Gravitypope attests to the collection’s success. “Clarks Trigenic is a super-lightweight comfort outsole story that has been well-received by our customers,” she says.

Champion describes Trigenic Flex as the perfect example of where he wants to take the brand. “Products like Trigenic Flex are the modern iterations of Clarks Originals that are fresh and unique, made for individuals,” he says. —A.L.

ATHLEISURE

NIKE TO QUOTE NELLY’S 2002 hit “Air Force Ones,” “I said give me two pairs.”

Plenty of rabid fans of the classic Nike silhouette did just that in 2016. And what makes the success all the more notable is the fact that the shoe debuted 30 years ago!

With sneaker culture in full bloom and the athleisure craze all the rage, the combination has athletic brands driving the industry bus in 2016, and market leader Nike (by a landslide) was at the front of the convoy with a wide assortment of successful collections and styles, including Flyknit, Air Max, Air Presto and Free. But it was the aforementioned Air Force 1 that many report soared above them all.

“Customers came to us for Air Force 1 last year,” confirms Lester Wasserman, owner of West NYC, noting that the style was among his bestsellers. “Nike’s color palette and material story were very good in 2016. They nailed the colors—burgundy, olive and oatmeal—they were right on target.”

Overall, retro colorways in throwback styles generated a large bulk of sales last year, notes NPD Group Sports Industry Analyst Matt Powell. “What’s working right now in footwear is retro,” he says.

“Nike has a huge vault of retro product they can call on. That’s really what you’ve got to leverage today.”

While many might argue that 2016 was Adidas’ year and plenty of buzz was generated by Puma and its Rihanna collaboration, Powell says Nike is still the dominant player “by a ton.” He notes that recent retro sales for the brand were up more than 25 percent, and the company’s portfolio of brands (including Converse and Jordan) possesses nearly half of the market share. One could make a strong case that the reason sneaker

culture even exists is due to Nike. And, from an athleisure perspective, which came first: the popularity of yoga pants or Flyknit? Regardless, the two have fueled sales for each category. And Flyknit’s uppers have redefined the entire athletic footwear market.

Wasserman cites the Air Presto series as a favorite athleisure style for men and women in 2016. In particular, the Air Presto Ultra Flyknit, which reimagined the original design with a lightweight knit upper and mid-cut collar for sock-like comfort, was a big hit at retail. Other notable Flyknit styles in 2016 included the Lunarepic and Racer—both strong sellers in men’s and women’s. The Racer was released in a rainbow colorway, which the brand dubbed “Multicolor Madness” last spring, providing a fresh alternative to the oversaturated, all-white offerings dominating the market at the time.

The ability to innovate as well as reimagine is what keeps Nike at the forefront. There’s always something new in the pipeline—something that will likely set the entire fashion world on fire. Nike remains a performance company at heart, committed to making its customers compete better wearing its products. But its ability to create a fashion frenzy within those same designs is nothing short of amazing. Vince Sirico, contributor to sneaker blog Modern Notoriety, saw it firsthand (again) while teaming with Finish Line on an in-store promotion for the Lunarepic release last March. “It’s a mid-top runner but can be worn as an athleisure style,” he offers, noting that the shoe combines Nike’s Lunarlon cushioning midsole system with Flyknit’s flexible support. “Those technologies are so comfortable, and when you put them together, it’s hard to go wrong.” —A.L

march 2016 • footwearplusmagazine.com 35

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

CLOGS

DANSKO ONLINE RETAILER

ZAPPOS IT’S QUITE SIMPLE: Happy customers equal happy wholesalers. There’s no denying that consumers love shopping on Zappos and brands are thrilled to fulfill the growing demand. It’s especially enjoyable since many brand execs report that doing business with Zappos is nearly seamless and always nonadversarial. It’s a partnership in the truest sense of the word, and that’s saying a lot at a time when relationships between vendors and retailers is as fractured as ever. So it comes as little surprise the juggernaut (a reported $2 billion-plus in annual revenues) won the Plus Award in the Online Retailer category for its sixth straight year.

Zappos’ formula for success hasn’t changed much since its founding nearly 20 years ago: make everyone happy. In fact, founder and CEO Tony Hsieh wrote a book on the subject: Delivering Happiness. Selection and service are tenets to achieving that goal. Most everyone is well-aware of the massive selection of quality brands across all categories offered on the site as are many in the know the extent Zappos employees will go on delivering exceptional service. In that regard, the lengthy customer service calls are now a part of Zappos lore. (The record still stands at 10 hours and 43 minutes.) Indeed, it’s about doing whatever it takes to satisfy customer wants and needs and leave them smiling.

“Everything we do is focused around delivering a wow experience for the customer,” confirms Jeffrey Espersen, general manager of merchandising. “We do this through brand and size selection. We also were very pleased with launching our Zappos rewards program at the back of the year.”

The loyalty program is a tiered system that customers can sign up for through a smartphone app to earn points for every dollar spent.

“We’re always looking to show our apprecia36 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

tion for our most loyal shoppers,” Director of Marketing Kedar Deshpande told Footwear Plus when the initiative launched in November of last year.

By most accounts, vendors continue to be pleased with Zappos. “I like and respect the way Tony Hsieh has guided Zappos over the years to create a unique culture while always focusing on the customer experience,” says John Connelly, president of Oboz. “It’s a viable long-term strategy. Their customers are happy, and you can’t ask for more than that.”

Connelly, who notes that Zappos was one of his first 10 accounts when he founded Oboz nearly 10 years ago, reports good growth on the site in 2016.

Similarly, Linda Grosser, senior vice president of sales, key accounts, Internet and family channels at The Rockport Group, reports double-digit sales growth on Zappos last year.

“Zappos is always thinking outside of the box as far as how to reach new consumers and keep them engaged with fresh new products,” she notes, adding, “They do a great job utilizing all of our digital assets to introduce new, innovative product.”

Unlike many of its competitors in the online space, Zappos doesn’t rely on discounting to drive business. “I’ve always been impressed with their selection and service and, specifically, we don’t have any discounting issues with Zappos,” Connelly confirms. “Zappos makes it easy for the consumer to find what they are looking for and continually puts fresh product on the site to keep them engaged,” Grosser adds.

Espersen says Zappos’ consumer-centric focus will continue and is optimistic for a strong, “exciting” year. Its brands are happy to be onboard. “The outlook for 2017 is beyond strong,” Grosser reports. “Zappos has been and will continue to be a key partner for The Rockport Group.” —A.L.

ANOTHER CONSECUTIVE WIN in the clogs category, Dansko continues to please retailers and consumers alike with the same all-day-comfort promise the brand was founded on in 1990.

In fact, during its salad days, Dansko referred to itself as “the little clog company that could.”

Millions of pairs sold later, Dansko is that plus a whole lot more.

Leading the way in the clog category in 2016 was Dansko’s classic Professionals style, notably in black and brown tooled leathers. In addition, novelty styles came into the spotlight last year in fashionable patents featuring prints like florals, pastels, watercolors or graphic stripes and patterns. “Customers really appreciate the Dansko brand because they know and appreciate our quality and fit, but they also know we are now giving them bold, on-trend silhouettes and interesting material mixes,” says Sal Agati, executive vice president of design and global sourcing. “We have a focused inside technology story that delivers on the Dansko all-day comfort promise, and we are consistent in not changing from one story to another each season.”

The Pro XP clog was another collection that experienced robust sales last year, having similar success in classic leathers and also more playful prints including iridescent leopard and a graphic print with a multi-color crisscross design. “We are the leaders in the clog area because we don’t set any boundaries around what’s possible,” Agati says. “We are always pushing the design and construction process so we not only have fresh current looks in both style and materials done our way, but we focus on constructions that deliver higher level of comfort for all-day wear.” The clog’s lightweight construction reduces fatigue for everyday wear and features a removable memory foam footbed and slip-resistant outsole. The style is a dependable favorite of nurses, teachers, lab technicians—anyone on their feet all day.

Looking ahead, Dansko plans to keep introducing more trend-driven clog styles, along with maintaining its go-to selection of classics. “Our customers love our brand and what they are telling us is they want more updated looks,” says Agati. “They really appreciate what we have been offering them.” —E.B.

MAY 31 - JUNE 2 NEW YORK HILTON MIDTOWN & MEMBER SHOWROOMS

FFANY IS PROUD TO SPONSOR

THE PLUS AWARDS FOR EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN & RETAIL C ONGR ATUL AT ION S: WO M E N ’ S C O M F O RT

WO R K B O OTS

B E ST SN EAK E R C OL LAB

BI RKE N STO C K

T IMB E R L A N D P R O

R IH A N NA X P U M A

ME N’S C OM F ORT

SA N DAL S

C O M F ORT SPE C IALTY

E C CO

BIR KE N STO CK

SOL E D ES I R E

B O OTS

O U T D O O R STY L E

N AT I O N AL C H A I N

FRYE

UGG

FO OT LO C K ER

AT H L E T I C L I F E ST Y L E

C H I L D R EN ’ S

ON L I N E

ADI DA S O R IG I N ALS

SKE C H E R S

Z A P P OS

AT H L E I S U R E

C LO G S

B O UT I QU E

N I KE

DA N SKO

SH OEG A S M

WO M E N ’ S C O L L E C T I O N

R A IN B O OTS

SN EA K ER BOU T I QU E

SARAH JE SSI CA PAR KER

H UN T E R

B OD EG A

ME N’S C OL LE CT IO N

B EST C O L L AB

B R A N D O F T H E YE AR

CLA RKS O RI GI N ALS

RIH A N N A X MA N OLO B LA H N I K

A D IDA S

A ND L IF ET I M E AC H I EV EM EN T AWA R D R E C I P I EN T

R O BE R T G O LDB E R G

SAVE THE DATE: MAY 31 BRYANT PARK GRILL ROOFTOP OPENING NIGHT INDUSTRY EVENT TO BENEFIT SHOESTHATFIT.ORG EVENT DETAILS & TICKETS: FFANY.ORG

FFANY SHOES ON SALE GALA 2017

#Shoes4aCure OCTOBER 10

INFO & HOTEL RATES @FFANYSHOESHOW FFANY.ORG FUTURE SHOW DATES: AUG 1!3 | NOV 29!DEC 1

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

RAIN BOOTS

HUNTER DRAWING INSPIRATION FROM the tempestuous environment of the North Sea, Hunter’s heritage-based Fall ’16 collection referenced its deep Scottish roots and buoyed sales stateside. The color palette, reflective of the epic northern landscapes, featured hues of kelp green, dulse red and classic fisherman brights interspersed with ocean blue, cobalt and navy. Color blocking and sporty stripes mirrored traditional fishing boats and floating buoys on refined silhouettes as well as iconic styles.

Also of note, an original handcrafted wave print featured on the 161-yearold brand’s new Hero collection.

Beyond the palette, Hunter made waves in 2016 with the launch of its season-less collection, CORE Concept.

Celebrating the brand’s relationship with rain—an element fundamental to Hunter’s identity and spirit—the collection is designed on the principles of, in this case, head-to-toe protection. CORE Concept includes tall and short wellies, hunting coats, mini-backpacks, vinyl windcheaters and ponchos—all available in a kaleidoscope of colors and, of course, fully waterproof.

The launch was backed by a global campaign entitled #RainStartsPlay, which challenges the standard depressive connotations of rainy weather in Hunter’s typically whimsical style. Under the creative direction of Alasdhair Willis and shot by Elaine Constantine, the campaign “injects a spirited spin on gray skies and showers” as the cast of models

sprung to life as rain begins to fall.

“Hunter has a passion for embracing the elements and having fun with wet weather,” says Willis, noting that the collection takes the British obsession with weather and turns it on its head.

“Rain Starts Play was the starting point for the collection and allowed us to be innovative and fun with our campaign,” she adds. “It really encapsulates the irrelevant, pioneering spirit of Hunter, which is so integral to this progressive heritage brand.”

Louise Dirks, owner of the Gravitypope chain in Canada, notes the brand’s mix of protection and panache continued to be a hit with its customers last year. “We’ve been carrying Hunter for over 10 years and sold more than 10,000 pairs,” she says. “The boots are particularly popular because of their super balance of functionality and style in wet or muddy weather.”

Dirks adds that customers love the variety, be it the availability in three heights, gloss or matte finishes and a plethora of colors. Its reputation and rich history are additional selling points. “The heritage and history of Hunter instills consumer confidence in the brand” she affirms, noting that the most popular style for Gravitypope is the Original Classic Tall and Short wellie in black matte. In general, Dirks reports that darker shades such as olive, navy and burgundy are the stores’ most consistent and popular sellers. “Sometimes we add a fun pink or blue to spice up the offering, but the bestsellers are always the same,” she says. —E.B.

Bella~Vita ®

FALL‘17 46 SIZES & 4 WIDTHS IN-STOCK & OPEN-STOCK 1-800-970-8482

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

T HE N EW C O O L Snazzy slip-ons and smoking slippers hit the right style notes.

STYLING BY A N N L OY N D

From left: Giorgio Brutini red smoking slippers, Richer Poorer socks (featured throughout), J. Hilburn suit, top-hat by Bailey. J. Hilburn plaid suit with Lucio Castro turtleneck, Spectre & Co. pocket square. Patent tuxedo shoes by To Boot New York, Ben Sherman collared shirt under J. Hilburn suit, Bailey bowler.

41

42

Right Bank Shoe Co. beaded velvet smoking slipper. Opposite: Tasseled loafers by David Hart x Johnston & Murphy, J. Hilburn chambray button-down, David Hart jacket, jeans from Mavi, Kangol paperboy hat.

43

From left: Embroidered smoking slippers by Steve Madden, vintage T-shirt under J. Hilburn corduroy jacket, Mavi jeans, sunglasses by Etnia Barcelona. Carrucci velvet bit loafers, Lucio Castro turtleneck with leather jacket and trousers by David Hart. Bruno Magli penny loafers (also pictured on Table of Contents, p. 4), Ben Sherman button-down, vintage trousers, hat from Kangol.

45

46

Chambray loafers by Esquivel, stylist's own turtleneck and suspenders with Asos shearling overcoat, David Hart trousers.

Opposite, from left: David Hart turtleneck with stylist's own trousers and suspenders.

Florsheim bike-toe slip-ons, vintage Christian Dior blazer with model's own polo, David Hart tie, Lucio Castro velvet lapel slacks.

Studded smoking slipper by Roberto Cavalli. Opposite, from left: Vintage cardigan over Ben Sherman polo, corduroys by David Hart. Ben Sherman tasseled moc loafers and button-down, J. Hilburn sport coat, stylist's own trousers.

Fashion editor and stylist: Ann Loynd; stylist’s assistant, Daniela Lukomski; grooming: Christina Nicole XO; models: Kone S., Gimberly O. and Gibrell S./Red Model Mgmt.

48

49

EDITOR’S PICKS

Clarks

D E S I G N E R C H AT

S H E R WA Y N E M A H O N E Y

What’s the theme of your Fall ’17 collection? “Wonderful Elegance and Beautiful Fantasy.” Things II Come always conveys luxury, elegance, beauty in craftsmanship and family history. Our design signature is gold, which is used in all our shoes.

Where do you look for inspiration? Inspiration comes in different ways. I usually find myself at the Metropolitan Museum of 50 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

Cole Haan

Reebok

IN THE LOOP

Athletic-inspired knit uppers refined for casual office attire.

Art, gazing upon the newest exhibits for shape or color-blend ideas. Or, I might be walking down Fifth Avenue or having dinner at Del Frisco’s with friends, and somebody walks by with a great dress or suit.

Recently, I went to China to get inspiration and ideas for future styles.

What do you find most rewarding? When a customer tells me how many compliments they have gotten for the day, and that they love the way they look and feel wearing my shoes. I love to make customers happy, beautiful and admired by others.

Who are your fashion icons? Carolina Herra, for her style, elegance and grace.

Gianni Versace for his bold colors and lav-

ish take on Italian glamor and style. Ralph Lauren for coming out of the Bronx and creating art in American luxury fashion.

What would you be doing if you weren’t a shoe designer? Probably a Walt Disney animator for Pixar, or an apparel designer for a fashion brand somewhere in New York or maybe Europe.

What is your motto? Nothing but the best, absolutely.

What is the greatest shoe design of all time? Nike Air Max. The concept of walking on a full cushion of air, heel to toe, was revolutionary. As a child, I used to draw pictures of a sneaker with an air bubble.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

SOMETIMES FATE AND career paths cross at the most happenstance of times.

Such was the case for Sherwayne Mahoney, designer for Things II Come. The year was 1995, and Mahoney was a New York high school student with ambitions to be a Disney animator. But that all changed— thanks to some giggling girls.

“I was a kid into cartoons and superheroes,” he recalls. “A friend and I were walking through the hallway, and we heard laughter coming out of a classroom. To our surprise, a room full of girls! Needless to say, we took the class.”

That class was fashion illustration, and the final exam required Mahoney to present a full collection with a brand name. The name he chose: Things II Come, now a footwear and accessories label.

Mahoney refined his craft at Parsons and FIT, studying fashion design, luxury marketing and branding. All the while, he made prom dresses for high school girls and gowns for more mature clients under the moniker Things II Come. Years later, he discovered a passion for footwear while working for Nine West Holdings as sample coordinator for Easy Spirit and then product developer at Bandolino. “I was building line sheets, talking to factories and sitting in sales and presentation meetings,” he says. “I learned a lot.”

The designer then decided to launch his own brand in 2013, after the parent company was sold to Sycamore Partners.

Things II Come includes both a mid-tier collection, manufactured in Asia, and a luxury line handmade in Italy by two longstanding family factories, one of which used to make shoes for Prada. Currently, the label is sold direct to consumer, but Mahoney is seeking retail partnerships because he believes the Things II Come woman is powerful draw. “She aims for more out of life, knows quality and admires it,” he offers. “She travels a few times a year and might host house parties or raise money for charities.

Others want to be her.” —Ann Loynd

S P E C I A L R E P O RT continued from page 12 pain and fatigue, leading to injury,” says Mike Lee, chief digital officer for Under Armour. “The Jump Test in MapMyRun is a critical first step for runners and will help avoid the training hangover many athletes face by giving them awareness into their ability to perform.” Under Armour reports that consumers are excited about the fusion of technology in footwear, and the company’s new launch has been well-received. Company execs also are confident that as consumers become increasingly interested in tracking their fitness, devices that can do so will generate interest and sales.

Vivobarefoot’s partnership with Sensoria, a manufacturer of smart socks, hopes to achieve just that with the incorporation of its microelectronics capabilities into its (aptly named) Smart natural running shoe, outfitted with sensors throughout and a small computing cube on the heel. The technology monitors speed, pace, cadence, GPS tracking, foot landing technique, time on the ground, impact score and—down the road—asymmetry and toe engagement in real-time. The overall aim, says Galahad Clark, founder of Vivobarefoot, is to guide people to healthier movement. “Healthy movement is one of the most ancient human rights in existence,” he says, adding, “We have a big rational point to prove against the conventional wisdom of the padded shoe industry.” Clark says the challenge of incorporating this sensory technology without much midsole room was an issue that, in the end, improved upon the design concept. “We found the socks weren’t quite accurate enough to be a valid coaching tool, and the technology is a bit more robust in the form of a shoe,” he says.

As for the response to date, Clark reports that a select few retailers have picked up the style (suggested retail is $600) and it has sold well.

However, he isn’t shy in addressing the struggle of releasing new product so different from the norm. “Most of the industry doesn’t like (natural motion footwear)—it’s against conventional wisdom,” he says. “In fact, it’s the opposite paradigm of most Shoe Dogs: the silver bullet is not the shoe, it’s you.” In addition, Clark believes there’s great fear that the smart shoe category will “drown the public in data and starve them of wisdom” as seen in the medical industry, for example. Still, he believes the technology—used correctly—can be a powerful tool to bring back healthier movement. He cites modern science’s rediscovery that certain levels of stomach bacteria as being healthier than loading up on antibiotic drugs as a relatable, “ancient wisdom” example.

While many wearable technologies are high-tech and pricey, not all smart shoes are. Take, for example, ZeroTie’s simplistic, self-lacing shoes that tighten around the foot via a hands-free process that does not require a computer chip insert or smartphone app. In fact, there’s no need to even bend over because the shoe uses only the weight of one’s leg and slight movement of the heel to tighten the laces. Staten believes the more simplistic technology is a fool-proof way to design smart footwear. “I’m ready to sell my Land Rover because of its software issues,” she remarks. “Once something goes wrong with technology, it’s hard to fix and embedding a chip in soft materials makes it likely susceptible to damage.” ZeroTie debuted last year in men’s and, this fall, will expand into children’s and women’s styles (retailing for $100 to $200). John Schuler, owner of the nine-store Schuler Shoes chain in Minnesota, is intrigued by the concept and smart shoes overall. “I see great potential in the smart shoes category,” he says.

“It’s definitely something I’d consider for my shelves.”

Indeed, industry experts believe the potential to entice, excite and deliver on a broad scale exists within the smart shoe category. In many ways, the category holds potential to reimagine footwear the way so many other consumer categories have been revolutionized of late. And unlike established footwear categories, the room to innovate and disrupt is open to shoe companies as well as technology firms, either separately or via collaboration. The market is young and wide open. “Nike has the largest offering and has been on the forefront of this movement,” notes NPD’s Powell. “But that doesn’t necessarily mean they are the winner and will continue to win.

We are just at the beginning of this trend.” •

Z6743-35 $125

Z6784-14 $120

Z6743-45 $125

Rieker Shoe Corporation 299 Rio Drive Orlando, FL 32810 ph: 800-960-0050 fax: 800-424-2777 www.rieker.us

Z6782-14 $120

All prices MSRP

DUCK...DUCK...

OOMPHIES.NET @OOMPHIES

U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

High Times Tamaris collection answers the call for comfortable high heels.

IT’S BEEN LONG considered the holy grail of women’s shoe design: comfortable high heels. And over the years many shoemakers have embarked on a quest for that elusive goal only to fall short. The evidence is all around us, be it the increasing popularity of low-heel and flat styles or the oft-sighted pile of high-heeled shoes at the side of dance floors, cast aside by women who can’t bear the suffering any longer and go barefoot instead.

Tamaris, a division of Germany-based Wortmann Group, claims its new Heart & Sole collection launching this fall will finally put an end to all that. At the ‘heart’ of its revolutionary concept is a patented insole design, developed in partnership with orthopedists. It identifies three areas of the sole that stop pressure points from placing a burden on the foot. The first eases any discomfort in the ball area, where most women feel pressure. The second point supports the natural arch of the foot and the third area helps to spread weight evenly, thus further reducing strain on the ball of the foot.

“We went much further than ‘just cushioning,’” explains Ellen Haselaars, innovation manager and creator of Heart & Sole. “We paid attention to not only where you need support but also how much you need. Heart & Sole combines the best of both worlds: the elegance of a beautiful high heel with real comfort.”

She claims women can walk longer in these heels (heights between five and 12 cm) compared to others of the same height. “They will feel the difference when they walk in them for a few hours,” she assures, adding that the suede finishing provides another layer of comfort.

The debut collection (suggested retail price range is $120 to $160 and includes a 60-point initial markup) consists of 17 styles, spanning pumps, booties, mid-boots and over-the-knee boots. The palette spans soft beige, pink, khaki green, silver, anthracite, burgundy, navy blue and black. There are also a few metallic options.

“They are versatile colors that work well with a variety of outfits,” Haselaars says.

Jan Brinkmann, president of Tamaris USA, describes the overall aesthetic as timeless and suitable for many occasions. “The styling spans chic, elegant and office dress to sexy,” he says, noting that the debut has resonated strongly with retailers.

“Elegant heels combined with a comfortable insole technology is revolutionary at this price point,” he adds. Initial interest notwithstanding, Brinkmann assures that the distribution will be controlled. “We want to grow the business the right way and with the right partners,” he says. “No mass retailing.”

Other notable Heart & Sole details include a unifying Bordeaux red outsole featuring a monogrammed gold heart and H&S logo with the tag line, “For the love of elegance.” The gold heart theme continues through as a zipper tab while rubber islands in the forefoot area provide added traction. In addition, boot shafts are angled at the top to elongate and slenderize the leg. “As a woman, I took into account these details because I know how important they are,” Haselaars explains.

“It gives Heart & Sole that extra spark.” —Greg Dutter 52 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

Hybrid Style Bionica finds its stride in athlesiure.

TWO YEARS INTO the game, Bionica, a division of H.H. Brown, continues to carve out a niche in the athleisure category. For Fall ’17, that translates into a new sneaker line as well as a comfortable bootie collection because the Bionica consumer, according to President David Issler, wants both.

“Bionica approaches comfort in a new way, with a concept that speaks to the modern women,” Issler says. “Women want apparel and shoes that multitask—items that are comfortable enough to wear to and from the yoga studio but also chic enough for brunch with girlfriends.”

Specifically, Issler says the Bionica consumer appreciates the comfort of athletic shoes but is looking for more-sophisticated styling. The new Ordell sneakers, for example, represent a fusion of everything that’s working in athleisure. Designed to look like knits, the uppers are full-grain leather, featuring a sock upper and elastic band to hug the foot. Plus, the sneakers retain Bionica’s proprietary ‘free-form’ construction. “It’s a revolutionary, lightweight, one-piece sock lining and upper design for a glove-like fit,” Issler explains. The light uppers are combined with a slip-resistant outsole compound that adds grip without weight. “We’re delivering some great new sneakers in vibrant colors and fun material combinations,” he adds. “This assortment pairs perfectly with the athleisure appeal that’s popular at retail.”

As for the booties, Issler says highlights include the Jupiter collection’s Java shoetie, Jericho cut-out ankle boot and Jade slouchy mid-shaft boot. The Revolution collection features mixed-material styles like the Reign leather-and-knit ankle boot with lace-up back and Ruston leather-and-felt patchwork hiker. Issler is also excited about the Corset, a returning favorite. New twists on the asymmetrical side-laced bootie include an athletic outsole and new Italian leathers and nubucks. “There’s an oiled, pull-up leather in the new casual boots that looks great paired with textiles as a collar, panel or boot shaft,” he says, adding that such premium materials move the brand into its own “active fashion” niche.

Issler says Bionica’s distribution strategy continues to focus on better-grade independents. (The line retails between $95 and $160.)

Stores include Shoes On Solano in Berkeley, CA; Karavel Shoes in Austin, TX; Schuler’s Shoes in Minnesota; Shuzy Q in Anchorage, AK; and Harry’s Shoes in New York. He notes that the online tier is another “avenue of growth” for the brand, citing Zappos as well as direct-to-consumer. With plenty of new offerings for fall to entice buyers, Issler notes that Spring ’18 will take Bionica’s interpretation of athleisure a step further. “Spring/Summer is where we can really push the envelope with color and styling,” he says. “We’re taking what the consumer loves about her sneakers and translating that into sandalized styles for Spring ’18.” —Ann Loynd

continued from page 20 you at a disadvantage versus selling it through a store where the consumer can touch and feel the product and you can work with them.”

R3332-53 $150

Back to the Future Goldberg’s take on online category killers (what’s left of them besides Amazon) is similar to how he views vendors that are expanding their DTC efforts. It’s another form of competition forcing him to think differently and react, for starters, with a merchandise selection that is not in direct competition with those margin-eroding platforms. Like all traditional retailers who have found ways to adapt and thrive, Goldberg has confidence in his abilities and >55

R3332-36 $150

ASIDES AND OPINIONS Robert Goldberg sounds off on social media, shoes and society.

On Social Media: What does social media really do? Does it add value to product or does it just satiate people to be self-aggrandizing? I think the consumer experience adds value to product. But people are, by nature, followers not leaders and social media allows everybody to feel like they are in the know, regardless of whether it’s factual or not. I mean, look at what just happened with the election. Was all that social media factual? No. But did people feast on it? Absolutely.

On Shoes: You could be the greatest businessperson in the world but, at the end of the day, it’s always about product. And I love product.

R3332-16 $150 R3325-25 $185

All prices MSRP

Rieker Shoe Corporation 299 Rio Drive Orlando, FL 32810 ph: 800-960-0050 fax: 800-424-2777 www.rieker.us

On Marketing: We’ve done e-blasts, newspapers ads, cable TV—all of it. But it’s become less linear. Years ago, newspaper ads went right to a specific demographic and, based on the timing sequence, seasonality and fashion trend, you could expect an immediate response. With social media, it’s a big brush stroke. As much as you think you can target social media ads, consumers are so over-sensitized because there’s so much coming at them from so many industries. And it’s not organized. It’s chaos! You just that hope that you can reach enough people where you create a little relevance.

On Business: It was a year of tremendous turmoil. It was like a perfect storm, where you had the weather work against everyone in the I-95 corridor, and you had an election, which never bodes well for retail, especially one that polarizing. It just shakes people up, especially in a liberal place like New York, and it’s still a distraction!

On Amazon: It’s like they’re the aliens in a bad sci-fi movie who have a technology that is superior to the Earthlings. It becomes very hard to control. If Amazon is a brand’s top five account, it’s like being a junkie, and you can’t take the needle out.

On the (False) Promise of the Online Channel: Many brands went into it blind. They thought that the Internet was another channel and that it was just low-hanging fruit. But what they didn’t understand was that they were diluting their brand equity as it pulled customers from all their other channels into that one tier. All the while, brands have been training their customers that they can buy their products at a lower price. Eventually, you will invert your business model. They’re like a black hole sucking it all in.

“Tika”

RestrictedShoes.com | 626.961.8889

W H AT ’ S S E L LI N G

Men’s Specialty

What have been your best-selling shoe styles of late? In the boot world, the Red Wing Heritage Collection is by far our best-selling brand. The classic Iron Ranger silhouette is our best-selling style.

We don’t do a huge sneaker business, but we’ve got steady business with Converse All Stars. We also do great with SeaVees—very much that California beach style. They are straight-forward, easy-to-wear sneakers for year-round.

Any surprises in the footwear category? I don’t take too many risks on the footwear front because it takes up a lot of stock space. However, one surprise is every time we buy a red shoe it does exceptionally well, whether it be New Balance or Converse. Now, on multiple occasions, I’ve said, “What the hell” to red.

In addition to men who like red shoes, who is your target customer? We have a pretty broad customer age range (25 to 60), but our target is anyone who’s into authentic, contemporary clothing rooted in classic styles. We sell everything from $88 basic chambray shirts and $50 Timex watches to $2,000 leather jackets and $1,200 Weiss watches. It’s a broad variety of styles all featuring an uncomplicated authenticity that will never go out of style.

STAG PROVISIONS FOR MEN

B

Austin, TX

Y BLENDING HIGH-END with low, mixing vintage classics with new finds and offering the unexpected alongside the nostalgic, Stag Provisions for Men provides an inspirational yet approachable shopping experience for the modern gentleman. In fact, the five-store chain describes itself as “a modern-day general store for every man,” carrying a selection of top-shelf clothing and footwear brands as well as one-ofa-kind furniture pieces, artwork, taxidermy, bags, belts, vintage books and classic vinyl albums.

“We attempt to create unique and inviting retail spaces that feature a precisely edited yet eclectic blend of apparel, accessories, grooming essentials, unique gifts and one-of-a-kind vintage finds,” says Don Weir, co-owner. He adds that the contemporary pieces help the business stay grounded to its unique, homegrown motto of “authentic, red-blooded style.”

Founded in Austin, TX, in 2009, Stag Provisions has since opened outlets in North Austin, Houston and Dallas as well as spread its wings beyond the Lone Star state with an outpost in Venice, CA. The stores vary in size from 2,200-square-feet to 3,500-square-feet, each with a slightly different vibe. The original location maintains a rugged and industrial feel while the Venice store is light and airy with soaring wood ceilings. The stores are as much a place to shop as they are welcomed hangouts. To wit, every store has a fully-stocked fridge of local craft beers and waters—for the non-drinkers and morning visitors. At least that was the original plan, but Weir has been surprised by how many customers don’t mind an ice-cold beer at 11 a.m. “A lot of guys aren’t super comfortable in a shopping environment,” he muses.

“They need relatable music, relatable people and then top it off with a beer to really break down the walls.” —Emily Beckman

54 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

What’s the biggest challenge facing your business? An uncertain economy. Today, the markets are more specifically based on their individual economies. In Texas, we are based on technology in some markets, oil and gas in others. At the end of the day though, the economy is out of our control. In terms of what we are doing to get people in the doors, we are just going to keep doing what we’re doing—and do it better each time.

What is your top priority for this year? Dialing in our new stores, finding new brands and continuing to grow our online business.

What’s the smartest business decision you’ve made recently? Opening our new store in North Austin. You never know exactly how a new store will perform, and we didn’t know what it would be like to have two stores in our home market, but it’s been great so far.

How are you faring against online competitors? Fortunately, we launched our online store seven years ago and have stayed up with the times, so we’re not racing to catch up. We keep it fresh with new arrivals, send a couple emails to our customers each week and stay in front of them constantly on a lot of the brands we offer, so we don’t spend too much time worrying about online competition.

What’s your social media strategy? Consistency. We make two to four posts every day on Instagram and try to mix product with stuff our customers are interested in like cabins and vintage cars. We have a series called #Todayscrave that features crave-worthy cabins and houses, and our following responds well to it. Our customer gets tired of just seeing shirts and jeans. They want something more.

What’s the best part of your job? Not having to do the whole damn thing on my own! [laughs] My business partner Steve Shuck and I share practically the entire duties of the business. We do all the buying, yet we both have different perspectives. It’s nice to have multiple points of view curating a shop instead of just one. It leads to an interesting mix that you just don’t get from one person.

continued from page 53 belief in his format. “At the end of the day, consumers still want and need Lost in the flood: Many South Carolinians are in to see footwear,� he says. “They’re not going to buy everything online.� In need of footwear and clothing donations. fact, Goldberg sees DTC as both an “enemy and an ally� that actually will enhance stores like Harry’s Shoes going forward as vendors will need the remaining physical stores as points of reference. “The smart brands will look to the stores that are left to partner,� he says. “They will understand our importance more than ever because they are going to need us to be their windows to the world.�

Count Kahan as one who fully expects Harry’s Shoes to remain a vital player in the retail landscape in the years ahead. And it all starts with Goldberg‘s leadership abilities and willingness to change. “Instead of just taking over a long-standing family business and babysitting the legacy, Robert has evolved and led the transformation from an old school, sit-and-fit comfort store to a destination for high-quality shoes from brands that have the highest equity with his consumers,� he says. Kahan cites, in particular, Goldberg’s shared vision of Birkenstock that enabled the brand to establish a meaningful footprint in New York. “He had the discipline to do the right thing that is not driven by price, but by assortment and service,� he says. “It’s an incredible testament to his ability. Robert is focused on thriving while others are focused on surviving. It’s a big difference. It’s OK to win instead of playing not to lose.�

Munro tells of a similar story of fruitful partnership that began in 1995 with Robert and his father. “We started small, but the business and relationship grew quickly because of their expertise at nurturing and growing branded relationships,� he says, adding, “Robert looks at his branded partners as an extension of the Harry’s brand and is willing to contribute his South Carolina a high SOLES4SOULS (S4S)significant IS retail and productisknowledge to the priority for us.� answering a call for help in betterment of the partnership.�

Munro says the Tiffany Johnson, S4Spassion out- for South Carolina after catastrophpartnership also involves a shared reach coordinator, takes this ic flooding ravaged the building state long-term relationships with consumers. relief effort personally.

She recently. Record rainfall—more “He is always looking ahead, instead dwelling on was raised inisone theofhardthan 25 inches—forced the thoupast,� he says. “Robert alsoofone very few areas and her mother sands from their homesretailers and thatest I’vehit come across in my career who there. value “As soon as we 20 counties have been declared understands still that lives a product’s is better mearealized the scope of this, I was federal disasters. Whilesured 17 peoby its points of difference and consumers’ on the than phone talking ple lost their lives, tens satisfaction, of thourather simply itswith retailvariprice.� ous agencies South Carolina sands more are without power All things considered, theinlong-running success aboutishow and whenThe we could and water, and many others lost Shoes of Harry’s no accident. groundhelp,� she says, noting one of all of their belongings. work was laid by earlier Goldberg generations, her mother’s co-workers lostof the In response, S4S is issuing but thea store’s rise to prominence as one everything. “My mother asked in plea to footwear and most influential andretailers respected businesses in the industry lies squarely if we put together a few assist in a hard work themanufactures talents, brains,topassion and of could its current president: Robert pairs of shoes for her co-worker, relief mission.

The non-profit is Goldberg. Like many a successful retailer, he’s always open and hungry to I senthis casual, dress product and ten-and partnering local emergency learning more.with Asked what he loves mostsoabout job beyond nis shoes,� says, adding responders in orderresponds, to provide customers, Goldberg “It’s never boringJohnson and, every day, there’s that such a small, but meaningshoes and clothing to those in something new. I love trying to figure everything out.� gesture, had anthe enormous need. the “Weongoing are asking any and sea offul Amid tremendous industry change, challenge to “My mom brought the all retailers or out� manufactur�figure everything is greater than ever.impact.

But Goldberg remains undeterred. of shoes to work and of her to donate “I’mers very curiousboots, to see athletic what happens,� box he says.

An avid watcher CNBC was retail overcome with and andmorning, children’s saysabreast co-worker every hefootwear,� tries to keep of the ongoing shakeout says.

Brian Granfors, how it might impactcreative Harry’sdirecShoes. It’semotion,� a war andshe every day brings a new tor“I’m of S4S. Adds CEO Buddy says. “I go Totodonate shoesday andand clothing fight. a gladiator,�

Goldberg work every look to “Responding to natural SouthYou Carolina flood victims seeTeaster: what I’ve got to deal with and do tofor survive. fight the war.�

Along disasters has been part ofwith the knowledge or make a monetary donation to those lines, arming oneself is the most effective weapon.

Soles4Souls mission from the S4S, contact Pattie Graben at 615“You want to make sure that you are informed,â€? Goldberg says. “You have very beginning andbusiness. helping There’s541-7007 or pattieg@soles4souls. to be involved in your no substitute for that.â€? • people get back on their feet in org. —Laurie Cone

I’m a gladiator. I go to work Soles4Souls Rallying every day Call to Aid South Carolina and look to see what I’veFlood Victims got to deal with and do to survive.

You fight the war.

S JUST IN: SNEAKER CIT Y

•

SMART SHOES ERA

THI • P LU S AWA R D W I N N E R S G ’16 ING COMF ORT : SPRIN NG MOVE S • DEFIN • MUNR O & CO. MAKI .S. RE-LAUNCH • G E OX S E T F O R U ACE YOUR SPACE NYC’S STOR Y: EMBR IS WEARABLE ART H T T U O K C • E H C P L E F O R G U YS T H E N E W S U M M E R STA

MINIMALISM E U R O T R E N D R E P O R T: R E F I N E D

•

MARCH 2017 ÄĽ

ĆŤ Ä‚ Ä€ Ä Ä† ĆŤ Ä‘ ĆŤ

ĆŤÄ‚Ä€Ä Ä†

ă ĆŤ Ä‘ ĆŤ Ä¸Ä Ä€

ĆŤ Ä‚ Ĉ ĆŤ Ä‘ ĆŤ ĆŤ ÄŠ ĆŤ Ä‘ ĆŤĆŤ Ä¸Ä Ä€

ĆŤ Ä‚ Ć ĆŤ Ä‘ ĆŤ ĆŤ Ĉ ĆŤ Ä‘ ĆŤ Ä¸Ä Ä€

ƍ Ă Ć ƍ đ ƍ

LOO K

ACK ASHB FLSHA RP Groove

Designers Slippers (Hot) for Smoking Vibe Spring to a ’70s & Jazzy Loafers Raise the Style Bar

LUME MP UP THE VO : DESIGNERS PU LET’S DANCE

3/3/17 2:09 PM fw_cover_03_17.indd 38

Enjoyed This Issue of Footwear Plus?

Stay engaged and informed of the most relevant and insightful market news and latest fashion trends by subscribing to the premiere industry fashion magazine: Footwear Plus.

!

A quick visit to www.footwearplus-subscribe.com ensures that you will receive a free subscription to our award-winning publication. Be sure to include your email address and phone number so we can easily contact you for timely, uninterrupted renewal service.

!

Feel free to contact us anytime at circulation@9threads.com or (440) 871-1300 with your questions. june 2008 • footwearplusmagazine.com 51

L A S T WO R D

Booting Up

Trek Chic Rugged boots ruled fall runways. By Ann Loynd MODELS STOMPED DOWN last month’s New York Fashion Week runways sporting combat boots, haute hikers and wellies. Chloé, Altuzarra, Coach and Moncler Grenoble were just some of the labels who chose utilitarian boots to pair with soft fabrics and willowy constructions. The sharp contrast created balance and, perhaps, reflected the societal extremes of today.

ICB, for example, chose to combine its soft, layered knitwear with overbuilt men’s work boots from Cat, a division of Wolverine Worldwide.

“The theme was Glacial Summit, about helping the ICB woman be courageous and scale peaks, reach new heights,” explains Dani Zizak, chief marketing officer for Cat. “It was about being bold and innovative, and they wanted to exaggerate that message even more by using a men’s work boot.”

“The classically rugged boot mixed with this season’s soft elements such as silk and pressed velvet and was the perfect embodiment of the harsh-meets-soft inspiration of Glacial Summit,” explains Michael Kozak, ICB stylist. “You don’t have to sacrifice, and that’s empowering,” adds Zizak. She believes the utilitarian/comfort trend is driven in part by consumers who ask for more from their footwear. “They demand comfort, want technology and expect these things that will match their 24-hour lifestyle,” she says.

Along similar lines, Chromat Creative Director Ben Ritter chose Sorel’s Joan of Arctic Rain Wedge and Joan Rain Wedge boots to pair with the brand’s bright sporty fall line. “The collection is about weathering storms, so we looked for shoes that our models would actually be able to do that in,” he says. “The Sorel boots were a perfect fit, not only because their look is sleek and tough, but because they have real technology behind them.”

Marion Minary, product line manager at Sorel, says rugged-meetssweet is having a moment. “Lately, we’ve seen increased demand for silhouettes that combine tough and feminine,” she reports. “The current utilitarian trend is doing a nice job answering this need for style.”

It’s not just in women’s; a similar tough boots movement is occurring in menswear. “Guys really like easy dressing, and the utilitarian/uniform idea is something that’s really appealing,” says Raf Swiader, who presented his eponymous collection at New York Men’s Day paired with classic Dr. Martens 1460 boots. “I don’t think that guys right now like anything that’s too precious or dainty,” he adds. “The chunky, hard-core look is really relevant right now.”

Clockwise from top left: Cat at ICB, Dr. Martens at R. Swiader, Farm Rio (apparel and footwear), Sorel at Chromat.

56 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2017

INTRODUCING!

Works

BY EASY STREET ®

When Anti-fatigue, Slip Resistance & All Day Comfort really make a difference...

TI

S LIP

NT AN

UE

SIST

A

RE

-FATI G

OPEN-STOCK NO CASE PACKS WRITE YOUR SIZES SIZE WIDTH

M W WW

5

51/2

6

61/2

7

71/2

8

81/2

9

91/2

10

11

12

••••••••••••• ••••••••••• •••••••••••

MEDIUM, WIDE, & WIDE-WIDE TO SEE OUR FULL LINE, CALL 1-800-826-6430

ENHANCED WITH THE EXCLUSIVE

EASYMOTION PRO-COMFORT SYSTEM®